Adventura - Fall 2011

FALL FASHION

This season’s stylish top performers

The

BEST

of our NATIONAL

PARKS

[DESTINATIONS] Collingwood • Gatineau • Mont Rigaud • Waterfront Trail • Wakefield • Wasaga Beach • Sleeping Giant Provincial Park

REDEFINING WHAT A CANOE CAN DO

[GEAR] SOLAR PANELS TESTED

ADVENTURA _ FALL 2011 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 1 FALL 2011 _ VOL. 3, NO. 3 _ www.adventuramag.ca

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SUBMO-5361-Adventura_Final.indd 1

11-05-06 14:54

CONTENTS // FALL 2011 :: VOL. 3 :: NO. 3

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[04] EDITOR’S NOTE [05] FIELD REPORT Best Travel Apps • Sebastian Copeland: Destined to save the planet • Need Speed?

Just Beet it. • Alicja Barahona: Run Alicja, Run! • Therapeutic Riding: Horses Helping People • Charlie’s Bike Shop Employs Youth, Teaches Skills • Jim Coffey: Redefining what a canoe can do

[10] DAYTRIPPER Collingwood • Gatineau • Mont Rigaud • Waterfront Trail

[12] WEEKEND GETAWAY A Sleeping Giant awakens

[14] LIVING LARGE Wakefield • Wasaga Beach • Uxbridge

[16] THE BEST OF OUR NATIONAL PARKS Park Canada is 100 years old

[18] GLOBETROTTER Malawi: Into the Heart of Africa

[22] FASHIONABLE FALL Whether it rains or it gets windy, our selection of the best innovations of this Fall will help you look super-stylish.

[26] SOLAR PANELS TESTED [28] MIND & BODY Sweating Together to Stay Together How can lovers of different sports be in a healthy, happy relationship together?

[30] LAST CALL Hawaii’s Big Island ADVENTURA _ FALL 2011 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 3

EDITOR’S NOTE

NEW departures d epartures Fall is my favourite season. Don’t get me wrong: I love winter and its snowy slopes, the first sunny rock climbing days of spring and the summer breeze on the Magdalen Islands, but fall fills me with a different kind of inspiring energy.

Cover: Fashionable Fall

The last t-shirt-clad outdoor celebrations on patios. The feverishness of the back-to-school season. Radio announcers are back behind the mic.

Front-page news is less fluff and more genuine, interesting information.

Politicians seem to (finally) want to get us to be a better society. Vacation time is over and we are filled with a sense of renewal. In short, the effervescence of this time of year prepares us collectively for what will feel like eons in the dark. We race around, making sure to soak in every last drop of sunshine before hibernation begins. Every bike ride is the penultimate one and hikes with cold-fearing friends are numbered but with the promise of colourful great outdoors and crisp nights of camping comes the fostering of creativity.

During the very hottest days of summer, when the temperature soars to extreme, can’t-even-thinking-about-moving temperatures, one of my principal activities consists of seeking a shady spot to sit and collect my thoughts. This is when my best ideas come out and sort themselves into my mental to-do list, to be deployed over the next couple months. It is during the coming cool weeks that I like to plan for new projects and adventures: Those for the winter that is just around the corner, but also way ahead to next season’s expeditions and even the topics that will be covered in these pages.

Get out there and take advantage of the colours that are coming soon.

Our passion for the great outdoors is what unites us, and sharing it is just as important as enjoying every season. Remember that every day that goes by is an occasion for a new departure.

Chris Levesque, Editor Twitter: @chrislevesque

© christianlevesque.com

I cast my mind into the future to try and imagine what the future holds but it’s impossible to get an accurate pulse for the period to come. Even with extensive online resources, interactive 3-D maps and the tales told by friends, nothing really conveys the magic of travel. It’s something you have to life for yourself, mind, body and soul. To understand the appeal of adventures, one has to feel the thrill firsthand.

Her: Jacket Heli DJ by Peak Performance ($500; peakperformance.com), pants Loiket SJ by Peak Performance ($85; peakperformance.com); boots Taku GTX by Vasque ($175; vasque.com). Him: Jacket Verglas 3L XP by Helly Hansen ($499; hellyhansen.com), backpack Peuterey 35 by Millet ($259; millet.fr). Mattress Neo Air All Season by Therm-a-Rest ($150; cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest); Base Camp Pillow by Mountain Equipment Coop ($14; mec.ca). see more on page 22

Fall 2011 :: Vol. 3 :: No. 3

Publisher:

Stéphane Corbeil (stephane.corbeil@adventuramag.ca)

design: Sève Création, seve.ca

editor:

Chris Levesque (christian.levesque@adventuramag.ca)

Website: www.adventuramag.ca

senior editor:

Stephania Varalli | stephania.varalli@adventuramag.ca

editorial dePartment: 514-277-3477 / info@adventuramag.ca

Contributors: Bryen Dunn, Patrice Halley, Ilona Kauremszky, Mathieu Lamarre,

advertising: Marie-Annick Lambert, Sales Consultant

Shelah McNally, Vanessa Muri, Travis Persaud, Todd Plummer, Frédérique Sauvée, Jimmy Sévigny, Stephania Varalli, Kathleen Wilker

Proofreader: Christopher Korchin

ma.lambert@adventuramag.ca / 514-277-3477, ext. 28 Jean-François Vadeboncoeur, Sales Consultant jf.vadeboncoeur@adventuramag.ca / 514-277-3477, ext. 27

mailing address:

translator: Christine Laroche Cover Photo: Our annual Fall photo shoot was done in Montreal (for bicycle) and at La Réserve naturelle Gault du Mont Saint-Hilaire. (© christianlevesque.com)

Groupe Espaces Inc 911 Jean Talon St. E., Suite 205 Montreal (Quebec) H2R 1V5

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CirCulation: 60,000 copies distributed to outdoor enthusiasts everywhere.

ADVENTURA is published four times a year by Groupe Espaces Inc. artiCle submissions: ADVENTURA welcomes editorial and photo submissions, which must be sent by e-mail only. Contact the Editor to discuss. ADVENTURA is not responsible for articles, photographs or any other material sent to its attention. If you do not keep a copy of ADVENTURA magazine for your personal archives, please give it to a friend or recycle it.The opinions expressed are those of the authors and are not necessarily shared

by Groupe Espaces Inc. Some of the activities reported on in ADVENTURA could entail injury risks for anyone engaging in them. ADVENTURA and its reporters, contributors, photographers and other staff members do not recommend the practice of these activities by anyone who does not have the required skills and technique. ADVENTURA is not responsible for the information contained in advertisements. Any reproduction of material published in ADVENTURA is prohibited without the expressed consent of Groupe Espaces Inc.

Before you go: For the organization nut Mammut Packing List

Whether you’re off on a long journey to South Asia or a quick weekend in Quebec, your smartphone can be the best travel companion around – and not just to pass the time playing Angry Birds! Here are some of the smartest travel apps out there. By Frédérique Sauvée

While you’re travelling:

Planning an outdoor adventure with your friends? Let this app be your personal assistant: Simply make your list of essential items to pack and share it with your crew. Everyone checks off the pieces of equipment they’re responsible for as they pack – you’ll be sure that nothing is left behind.

Free

On the way home: For the touch-up enthusiast Instagram If there’s one app that’s a must-have, it’s this one! For fans of photo retouching, this tool is one of the most interesting (and addictive!) in terms of functionality and ease of use. Cool filters, special effects… everything you need to make your holiday photos masterpieces is in this app.

Free

For the Internet addict For the scribe Wi-Fi finder Postman Wi-Fi everywhere, all the time! In 144 countries, this app is your link to 500,000 free and paid Wi-Fi hotspots. Your phone displays the list of hotspots around an area, and you can download the maps to look at them later when you’re offline. A lifeline if lack of Internet connection makes you panicky.

Free >> Similar app for Blackberry and Android: Boingo Wi-Finder

To make your friends green with envy, why not send them a virtual postcard via email or Facebook?

A photo of you on a paradisiacal beach, a short message and a lovely exotic stamp – this virtual postman will make sure that your loved ones get the message: you’re living it up while they work hard! $2.99

For those who believe that friends and money don’t mix Share-a-bill Who owes what to whom? To avoid tension when it comes to post-trip accounting, this app allows you to jot down expenses as you go, and then to split them up. More efficient than a notepad – and much harder to lose than a Post-It! – this tool makes post-holiday debt division a cinch. $3.99

ADVENTURA _ FALL 2011 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 5

SEBASTIAN COPELAND

DESTINED TO SAVE

THE PLANET

© Revo

By Christian Lévesque

Sebastian Copeland, a 47-year-old Brit, turned his back on a lucrative fashion photography career in Hollywood to put his talents to the benefit of the earth.

In May 2010, he crossed the 2,300 kilometres of Greenland by ski and kite surf. Next November, he will trek the 3,700 kilometres of Antarctica in 85 days. His passion for the poles is evident in his film Into the Cold, and his books (his latest, Antarctica: The Global Warning, is prefaced by Leonardo DiCaprio).

As of this year, he is an ambassador for Revo glasses. A one-on-one with the adventure-seeking artist How would you describe yourself?

I am an environmentalist and a photographer. I started exploring remote regions for the incredible adrenaline rush and because they are unique and incredible to photograph. Few people have visited these areas, and they are the first showing the effects of climate change.

You were sought after in Hollywood. Was the decision to leave that world behind to become an environmentalist photographer a difficult one to make?

Actually, the more I travelled to these remote areas and talked about it, the more people started asking me if I wasn’t in fact an environmentalist photographer. On one hand, I spoke of incredible corners of the world and on the other, I shot photos to promote the consumption of movies. It was a moral dilemma, and I asked myself what I should do to be happy for the next 20 years. I decided that this was the route to take.

Was it difficult for you to become an adventureseeking outdoorsman?

I always practised sports, but I’m just a regular guy – anyone can do what I have done. All you need is the drive to follow your dreams. I’d say that 80 percent of the difficulty in these adventures is mental and 20 percent is about going to the gym and being ready. But the hardest part is accessible to everyone.

My personal strength is being able to communicate through my photos to touch people. As for the rest, I do what I’m passionate about, and the fact that I can bring back something tangible to share makes these adventures even more meaningful to me.

Do you think that the environmentalist message is being heard by society?

That’s really the challenge. First of all, I think that there’s still a part of the population that still doesn’t believe in climate change and seems to be living in another

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reality. Then there’s the majority that is sympathetic to the cause. Thanks to this segment of the population, many things have been accomplished over the past five years. Today, people are much more conscious than they were in the past and are ready to take concrete action. The hardest part still lies ahead: making the action happen. Society’s instinct is to do what’s easy and most cost-effective, not what’s most sustainable.

And even when habits are changed, the results aren’t immediate. We’re only now just beginning to envision a world where we produce the same amount of goods without leaving such a horrific carbon footprint on the planet. We’re living in an interesting period because we have the technical know-how to do it; now we have to see if politics and individual discipline will move us in that direction. In any case, we don’t have a choice if we

want to survive: population is increasing exponentially and our resources are very limited.

How do you perceive the impact you’re making?

I want my photos to be a visual testimony of these regions that are changing too quickly. The impact of climate change is much more evident at the poles, and the implications are immediate: the effects are ravaging the environment, which is changing at an astounding rate.

For more: sebastiancopelandadventures.com intothecold.org

MOST MEMORABLE ADVENTURE MEMORY I was attacked by a polar bear, and the adrenaline rush was incredible! Not only did I shoot some stunning photos, but thanks to my gun, I was able to frighten her enough to be able to follow her for an hour and a half. I even got within two metres of the bear. At one point, she stopped and lay on the ground, staring me down with her head resting on her front paws as if to say, “Just let me hunt in peace!” We remained like that for 20 minutes, and then she left. It was extraordinary.

WORST DAY ON AN EXPEDITION Without a doubt, during my adventure to the North Pole, when the head-on winds were blowing at 65 kilometres an hour and we had to be completely covered not to freeze. It was minus 32 degrees Celsius and I had indigestion… Just keeping the toilet paper dry was an adventure! We walked for seven hours that day nonetheless, but the wind was so strong that the ice shifted and brought us back to our departure point overnight… We made no progress whatsoever!

NEED SPEED? JUST BEET IT. © iStockphoto

By Stephania Varalli

Your mother always told you to eat your vegetables. If she had known you wanted to be an athlete, maybe she would have told you to drink them, instead. And not just any vegetable: beetroot juice.

In a recent study done at the University of Exeter, cyclists powered by 500 ml of beetroot juice were able to beat their time on a four-kilometre course by an average of 11 seconds. A time trial on a 16.1-kilometre course had riders finishing an average of 45 seconds faster.

According to the study, the boost comes from the high levels of nitrate naturally found in beetroot juice. Each of the competitive male cyclists was asked to complete both distances twice. For one set of trials, the beetroot juice was normal. In the other, the nitrate was removed. The athletes weren’t told about the switch, and to make sure they were pushing to their maximum effort for all four trials, the researchers monitored their VO2 levels (which shows how much oxygen is being consumed). With times that were nearly three percent faster, researchers were able to conclude that nitrate was the active ingredient affecting performance.

It’s not the first time that this superfood has been put to the test. Previous research by the same U.K. team demonstrated that beetroot juice can impact endurance as well. In the original study, the test subjects drank 500 ml

of beetroot juice for six days in a row before being tested on a bike. The result: the athletes were able to exercise an average of 16 percent longer.

How does it work? The nitrate widens blood vessels, which leads to lowered blood pressure and increased blood flow.

It also impacts muscle tissues, reducing the amount of oxygen they need to produce power. These physiological effects combined can have a big impact on an athlete’s (or a couch potato’s) speed and endurance capabilities.

Ready to start juicing up your own high-performance potion?

To guarantee freshness, buy your beets with the leaf stems and taproot still attached, and look for smaller beets, which will be sweeter. If you haven’t tried the vegetable before, prepare yourself for the possible side effect of red-tinged urine. Small price to pay for a speedy boost!

ADVENTURA _ FALL 2011 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 7

Charlie’s Bike Shop EMPLOYS Youth, TEACHES Skills By Kathleen Wilker I MET DEREK CHADBOURNE on the inaugural BikeTrain trip in Windsor in June 2010, when we took the train from Toronto to Windsor and rode on to Point Pelee with around 25 other cyclists. While riding in the earlysummer heat, past vineyards and alongside Lake Erie, some cyclists in our group got flat tires. Chadbourne was always the first off his bike: He fixed flats, adjusted brakes and generally made sure that everyone’s bikes were in good working order. His hands got greasy, but his smile never faded.

© Courtesy of Jim Coffey

Turns out Derek Chadbourne spends a lot of time repairing bikes and teaching bike repair, even when he’s not on cycling vacations. It’s both his vocation and his passion, and he’s in the unique position of helping another generation learn his skills.

JIM COFFEY

REDEFINING WHAT A CANOE CAN DO

Derek Chadbourne is one of “Charlie’s Angels”: He volunteers at Charlie’s Bike Shop, an entirely youth-run bike repair shop at 242½ Queen St. E. in Toronto that opened its doors in mid-April. It is named after Charlie Prinsep, an avid Toronto cyclist who was hit and killed by a truck in Alberta while on a cross-country ride. All the shop’s employees are graduates of Toronto’s Regent Park earn-a-bike program Charlie’s Free Wheels, a 12-week course that offers bike maintenance and repair training for youths aged 14 to 19.

“Charlie’s friends wanted to honour his memory, so they started Charlie’s Free Wheels and asked me if I could teach bike mechanics to students from the Regent Park neighbourhood,” Chadbourne explains. He owns and operates his own bike repair shop, The Bike Joint, where he specializes in repairing commuter bikes from Toronto’s fleet of everyday cyclists. He

has been a mentor mechanic at Charlie’s Free Wheels since the program began five years ago. He donates his time to teach over 25 students 60-hour courses in bike repair and maintenance, and is a volunteer manager as well. “We wanted the young people to have their own space,” he says. “Charlie’s Bike Shop is giving these kids the opportunity to run a store, run a website, learn about accounting, everything. They’re going to have a complete skill set.”

Charlie’s Bike Shop accepts donated bikes. Young junior or senior mechanics strip down, repaint, repair and tune them, and they’re sold after trained mechanics look over the repair work. After only a couple of months, business is already booming at Charlie’s Bike Shop: “People are showing up with bikes to donate every day,” says Chadbourne.

Cities across Canada have earn-a-bike programs similar to Charlie’s Free Wheels, which teaches basic bike mechanic skills through the process of refurbishing a used bike. In addition to getting a bike, lock and helmet through Charlie’s Free Wheels, young people learn about bike safety and gain valuable experience in community engagement.

But Charlie’s Bike Shop is a unique venture: Not only do the young trainees become bike mechanics and acquire all the skills needed to run a store, they also earn a salary and gain confidence. It’s a winning combination.

For more: Charlie’s Bike Shop is located at 242½ Queen St. E. in Toronto. Open Monday–Friday 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. were calling me for a few years. Another one of my passions is helping others whenever I can. I combine my running with fundraising efforts for both breast cancer and Alzheimer’s research. I decided to turn this challenge into a fundraising effort for the Inuvik Homeless Shelter, a local organization. There is no way anyone can survive for long without shelter in sub-zero temperatures unless they are adventure seekers with the appropriate survival gear!

By Stephania Varalli

© Courtesy of Alicja Barahona

BACK IN 1981, JIM COFFEY WENT ON AN ARCTIC CANOE EXPEDITION ON THE COPPERMINE RIVER. After that, he claims, all ambitions his parents had for him to become a doctor, lawyer or accountant went out the window. Now 46, this Davidson, Quebec, native has an impressive global resumé: he’s competed internationally with C-1 and C-2 slalom canoes, captained the Canadian World Rafting Team, owns Esprit Whitewater Worldwide, celebrating its 20th anniversary, and is founder of the Whitewater Intensive Leadership School. Coming from a multidisciplinary background also helped him excel in sport canoeing, or OC1. As a solo canoeist he’s conquered Class V rapids and 40-foot drops, and this year he’s looking to topple the world record with a 60-foot waterfall in Mexico.

What’s the biggest misconception about sport canoeing, or OC1?

That there’s a certain limitation on where open canoes can go – and above that, places where kayaks can go. On an elite level, solo OC1 canoeists can run just as much of what’s called the gnar: technically challenging rapids with steep drops, such as waterfalls.

Any advice for people who want to start off in sport canoeing?

The way for someone to really succeed is based on practice – but with a level of intensity. For example, with WILD, what gets people to an elite level so quickly is that they paddle consistently for 90 days. Some people don’t have 90 days of paddling within their first three years. Training at an intense level, every day you get a little bit better. With a low-intensity effort, the next time you go back on the water you might not even be as good as when you finished off the last time, which can make moving forward a struggle.

If you could paddle any river in the world with your OC1, where would you go?

I started sport canoeing mostly because of all the incredible rivers in Mexico – which wasn’t considered a canoeing destination five years ago.

I was able to paddle bigger rapids that nobody had really tried in an OC1 canoe before. Now Mexico is known as one of the world’s top spots. I can’t imagine wanting to do more than some of the rivers we have planned for this December in the state of Veracruz, Mexico. There are still many that have yet to be run in a canoe!

For more information about the WILD program, the trips and training Esprit offers in Quebec and Mexico, and the environmental activism they are involved in, check out whitewater.ca.

ALICJA BARAHONA

Run, Alicja, Run!

By Travis Persaud

Raised in Waterloo, Ontario, Alicja Barahona has seen much of the world on her feet. As a marathon runner she has competed in, and won, numerous races in places as disparate as the Sahara Desert and Alaska. But earlier this year she accomplished her greatest feat yet: Barahona, 57, became the first person to complete a solo ultra-marathon in the Arctic Circle. Running in temperatures below -30oC, she finished the 370-kilometre run in about 76 hours. The best part? She raised $20,000 for the Inuvik Homeless Shelter, Canada’s northernmost emergency shelter. She speaks with Adventura about her inspiration, training methods and more.

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When did you compete in your first marathon?

I first started running in March 1996, and in November I ran the New York City Marathon. I finished in 4:04.

What was the experience like?

I felt like I had just won the lottery; I was so excited after finishing the marathon that I couldn’t stop yapping. It was the first step of my extreme-long-distance experience.

What inspired your Arctic Circle marathon?

I like running in extreme conditions, and the Arctic is definitely a place of extreme conditions.

It is the challenge that inspires me. The scenery of the snow-covered land without trees, the thick ice of the Mackenzie River and the Arctic Ocean

What was the biggest obstacle to finishing the run?

While approaching Tuktoyaktuk, NWT, the temperature with the northeast windstorm dropped to almost -50oC and I was bone-cold; the greatest challenge was maintaining a steady, comfortable body temperature. I was constantly taking off and putting on layers of clothing. Also, after leaving the treeline behind, the monotony of the landscape was difficult – all I could see was snow and ice.

How do you train for marathons?

I don’t really have any special routine. For the most part I run five times a week (no set distance for three of those days), and then I run long distances on the weekends. For example, I would run a marathon (26.2 miles) on Saturday followed by 30 miles on Sunday.

Alicja’s top tips for training to become a marathon runner: 1. Keep a strong mind. If you want to achieve it, you will.

2. Avoid negative people.

3. Listen to your body, follow a training plan, but have fun.

4. Select a marathon with a large number of participants. You will get great support from the spectators and you will thrive among other runners.

PubAdventura_Aut2011_en_Mise en page 1 11-08-18 14:11 Page1

Therapeutic Riding:

© iStockphoto

Horses HELPING People

Make our national parks your fall destination

By Kathleen Wilker PROMOTING COOPERATION BETWEEN HUMANS AND ANIMALS, therapeutic riding pairs disabled people with specially trained, gentle horses. Horseback riding provides many benefits to children and adults living with physical, cognitive, emotional or behavioural challenges. The physical and mental stimulation from riding helps to increase strength and improve balance while providing a social outlet. The communication between horse and rider helps riders to keep learning and developing.

Most therapeutic riding stables begin with a personal assessment.

At the Therapeutic Riding Association of Ottawa-Carleton (TROtt), participants are typically placed in groups of no more than four riders.

There are specific TROtt programs geared to each disability so that those dealing with cerebral palsy, spina bifida, stroke, head injuries, multiple sclerosis, visual impairments or mental challenges can have their special needs met while participating.

Paula Rolfe, program assistant at TROtt, says that if balance is an issue, riders could require up to three volunteers to walk on either side of the horse helping to stabilize them. “Volunteers don’t need to have experience with horses to help out with the program, but if they are experienced, we put them to work as horse handlers,” said Rolfe.

Benefits of therapeutic riding include improved learning skills and concentration, increased muscle tone, mobilization of the trunk and pelvis, and improved self-confidence. Sara Campbell, who began volunteering at TROtt as a side walker, has seen some of those changes first-hand. “The first rider I assisted had severe CP,” said Sara. “He rolled up a ramp to his horse in a wheelchair, but once on the horse he was amazing.” Campbell also noted that kids who barely speak on the ground issue firm commands in powerful voices once they are riding.

Since the designated stables need to care for and support a team of specially trained horses and hire qualified instructors, lessons typically range from $25 to $40 per session. Some stables also offer more able-bodied riders an opportunity to groom, feed and care for the horses they ride.

Parc national des Îles-de-Boucherville Photos: Mathieu Dupuis

Colour your dreams!

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Take all the time you need to explore the most beautiful protected areas in all of

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parks, choosing the accommodation package that suits you best!

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Park entry fee and taxes not included. *Reservation fee of $5.75 per transaction not included.

Discover a whole new destination Parc national d’Oka Four trails where you'll discover flora, fauna-and history • L'Érablière, a 26-question rally • La Grande Baie, headquarters of the migratory birds • Le Calvaire d'Oka, Stations of the Cross like nowhere else in the Americas • La Sauvagine, four habitats waiting to be explored Photo : Gilles Archambault

• Ontario Therapeutic Riding Association: ontra.ca • Fédération Québécoise d’Équitation Thérapeutique: fqet.org • Near Montreal: Projet Récolte Chanceuse (luckyharvest.org) • Near Ottawa: The Therapeutic Riding Association of Ottawa-Carleton (trott.ncf.ca)

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In addition to therapeutic riding, certain stables offer hippotherapy, a form of physiotherapy where a rider experiences a range of movements while sitting on their horse. A specially trained physiotherapist leads this individualized therapy program.

• Canadian Therapeutic Riding Association (CanTRA) interactive map: cantra.ca/centremap.shtml

$

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• Near Toronto: Windrush Stable in Georgetown (windrushstable.com) ADVENTURA _ FALL 2011 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 9

DAYTRIPPER MONTRÉAL

MONT RIGAUD

SUMMER’S END MAY BE NEAR, BUT THAT SHOULDN’T MEAN FAREWELL TO THE OUTDOORS. WE’VE SELECTED OUR FAVOURITE ONE-DAY EXCURSIONS

FRESH MUD! BY FRÉDÉRIQUE SAUVÉE

After skiing in the winter and Acrobranche, cliff-climbing and rock-climbing courses in the summer, there’s once again something new at Mont Rigaud for lovers of mud and adrenaline rushes: 10 kilometres of cross-country trails and a bike park, inviting cyclists and families to come and play.

New at the sport? Try the lower-mountain family trail, a 1.2-kilometre-long and one-metre-wide loop on a stable surface with an average two-percent slope. With the Acrobranche course running just above, it makes for a great warm-up trail. Another good option for novices is a 2.4-kilometre trail that climbs up to an old sugar shack. Intermediate? You’ll adore the mid-level 1.6-kilometre trail that leads to the summit. And for the experts, there are several loops from the top of the mountain, including “Le couloir,” an old-school flat trail that has some tough challenges and difficult rocky

sections. At the base of the mountain, you’ll find 600 metres of technical trail, complete with several berms (a.k.a. banked turns) and over 100 rollers on solid rock, giving the course incredible flow. Aside from the cross-country trails, the bike park spreads over two square kilometres and features a pump track circuit and several balance modules on bridges and blocks of wood – just the thing to develop agility without pedalling for a single second!

Mont Rigaud still has several prospective projects, including the expansion of its trail network, the desire to open as soon as possible in the season and the creation of a mountain-biking school as early as next year. To be continued…

Activity: Mountain Biking Distance: About 10 km of cross-country trails Rates: Daily admission: $8 per person, season pass: $45 per person Level: Family-friendly to intermediate/advanced Getting there: From Montreal, take Highway 40 West to exit 12 toward Rigaud. Turn left on 342 West then left again on Rue Saint-Pierre. Continue three km and turn left on Chemin des Érables. You are now at Mont Rigaud.

For more: 450-451-0000 • velo.montrigaud.com

429 oth

SOUTHERN ONTARIO Want to add some variety to your mountain biking?

The Collingwood area boasts some of Ontario’s best riding, with three trail systems offering unique excursions.

Check out 3 Stage, a local gem with lots of twisty single-track and technical challenges. Stay on top of the escarpment to keep it short, or take one of the trails down to the bottom for a longer ride (but be prepared for the ride up!). At Kolapore Uplands, a well-marked trail system can keep you in the saddle for hours, with lots of rocks and roots to make things interesting. It’s just a short drive from 3 Stage in

COLLINGWOOD

GET YOUR GRIND ON

BY SALLY HEATH

nearby Ravenna, so you can combine the two rides for a whole-day adventure.

purchase trail maps or get unexpected mechanical issues fixed in a jiffy.

If you don’t have your own gear, you can rent cross-country or downhill bikes and all necessary equipment at Blue Mountain. The resort also features a trail network on top of the escarpment, and guided tours are available. Those looking for a real thrill can purchase a pass or sign up for downhill lessons and fly down the ski hills. Finish the day off with dinner at one of the many restaurants in the village.

Activity: Mountain Biking Level: Intermediate to expert (depending on location) Season: Summer and fall Cost: There is no cost to ride at 3 Stage or Kolapore; rental and trail fees apply at Blue Mountain.

Gear: Mountain bike, helmet, safety gear, snacks and water Other activities: Hiking

There are several bike shops in Collingwood where you can take care of all your last-minute gear needs,

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Getting there: Parking for 3 Stage is located at the intersection of 2nd Line and 6th Sideroad just outside of Collingwood. A bit further away, the trailhead for Kolapore can be found on Grey Road #2 near Ravenna. Closest to Collingwood, Blue Mountain Resort is just off Highway 26 on Grey Road 19 (Blue Mountain Road).

For more: Blue Mountain: bluemountain.ca/mtnbike.htm Kolapore Uplands information and review: canadatrails.ca/mtb/on/kolapore.html 3 Stage information and review: canadatrails.ca/mtb/on/three-stage.html

TO KEEP YOU ACTIVE INTO AUTUMN AND BEYOND. LESS THAN ONE HOUR FROM YOUR HOME CITY, THESE DESTINATIONS GIVE YOU SCENIC STIMULI AND LOADS OF CLEAN, CRISP AIR. YOU’LL BE PUMPED AND READY TO GO – AND GO AND GO!

TORONTO

LAKE ONTARIO

TAKE A LAKESIDE TOUR BY STEPHANIA VARALLI

A long day’s ride is always more satisfying when you end up somewhere special. And when you take the Waterfront Trail from Toronto to Niagara-onthe-Lake, the journey can be just as enjoyable as the destination.

The trail connects dedicated bike paths and residential streets in communities around Lake Ontario. You’ll see Toronto’s vibrant waterfront parks, gawk at Lakeshore Road mansions and enjoy close-up shoreline views along the Hamilton Beach stretch. Reward yourself with an ice cream stop in Port Dalhousie or a visit to a winery in Niagara-on-theLake. Depending on where you choose to start and finish, or if you take any detours, you’ll be logging up to 150 kilometres. If that sends shivers down your quadriceps, keep in mind that the route is mostly flat and paved.

There are a few stops along the way for bathroom breaks, as well as opportunities to pick up food and water, but it’s a good idea to carry enough supplies to make it through the stretches in between. While there are signs marking the way, a trail map (available online) or route notes will be helpful. When in doubt, just look for the lake!

Activity: Cycling Level: Challenging Season: Weather permitting, best in fall and spring Cost: Free Gear: Road or hybrid bicycle, safety gear, snacks and water Other activities: Hiking, rollerblading

Getting there: To avoid a return journey, consider jumping on the Niagara River Recreation Trail at the end of the Waterfront Trail at Fort George, and make your way down to Bridge Street. The Niagara Falls train station is not far off the path, and you can catch the Greenbelt Express Bike Train, equipped with bike racks, from there to Toronto. (biketrain.ca) For more: Information and trail maps: waterfronttrail.org

9 other models in store

BELOEIL - BROSSARD - LAVAL - OTTAWA - QUEBEC NEW STORES OPENING DECEMBER 2011 OSHAWA - VAUGHAN

GATINEAU

LAFLÈCHE ADVENTURE AERIAL PARK

You don’t expect to be swinging like Tarzan deep in the heart of Val-des-Monts country, but in the Outaouais’ western parts, visitors are literally flying through Laflèche Adventure Aerial Park.

On an adrenaline-fuelled three-and-a-half-hour trek, you’ll traverse 14 ziplines and 35 suspended obstacles, all with colourful bursts of fall foliage beneath your feet. Only a quick 35-minute drive from Ottawa, it’s pure wilderness, with lakes dotting the Laurentian landscape of pine groves and high-rise oaks that go on for miles.

Anything with a waiver that reads: “I am aware of the danger of the activity and that it may cause

TOUR THE TREETOPS IN GATINEAU BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY

injuries, loss, trauma or death” is guaranteed fun for thrill-seekers. Only a harness and a pair of carabiners connect you to the narrow wire cables along the ziplines, wooden suspension bridges and unique obstacles in between. Besides the Cirque du Soleil tightropes, the skateboarding on a rope bridge and hurling into a net suspended high above water, the next big highlight is swinging over 30 metres above a lake on a pair of 200-metre-long ziplines at breakneck speed, surrounded by autumn scenery.

Night owls will prefer the Midnight Adventure tour, which packs in similar scenarios but under moonlight and with head lamps. The park has also

introduced the new Summit Aerial Park, which has 44 suspension bridges, 11 ziplines and a rare Via Ferrata (Italian for iron road) hearkening back to the old footholds used in the Alps during World War I. Expect more adrenaline to be pumping with longer trails, higher heights, faster speeds, an ancient rock face for rock climbing and one zipline that narrowly skims the water, just two metres above a lake.

Activity: Ziplining Level: 16 years and older in good shape, acrophobia-free, and minimum five feet tall Season: Open year-round

Cost: The Adventure Aerial Park full tour is $48.75 for adults, $44.75 for kids.

Other activities: Hike the park’s network of trails, or visit the large cave on site.

Gear: Clasps, climbing harnesses and gloves are provided. Closed shoes, with no heels, must be worn.

Getting there: Take King Edward to the MacDonald-Cartier Bridge, then take Highway 50 toward Gatineau-Montreal, getting off at the first exit (138 – Boul. St-Louis) and turning right toward 307 North. Continue for 24 kilometres; you’ll see a large sign on the left for the access road to the park.

More info: 819-457-4033, or toll-free: 1-877-457-4033 • aventurelafleche.ca

ADVENTURA _ FALL 2011 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 11

WEEKEND GETAWAY

AWAKES A Sleeping Giant

© Creative Media

By Ilona Kauremszky

“If you spot a bear and you see it gets aggressive, make yourself very large, wave your arms and make loud noise.”

The ranger’s advice earlier at the Thunder Bay lookout was now a distant memory. Along the Sibley Peninsula’s shoreline, we heard the wolves instead.

for the journey, we made an easy 1.5-hour flight from Toronto to Thunder Bay, shaving off what would have been a 17-hour drive.

Well, we had wanted to abandon the big-city stresses.

The 24,391-hectare Sleeping Giant Provincial Park is an escape hatch for urbanites in search of total isolation.

After Thunder Bay, there’s only a smattering of remote hamlets. Campers cue at the showers. Kids throw Frisbees at the Marie Louise campground. Others stoke the campfire readying for weenie roasts and guaranteed nightly bonfire chats.

Once in Thunder Bay we hooked up with a local outfitter that offers excursions to Thunder Bay Harbour. Suzanne, a friend from Atlanta, met us at the rental shop, anxious to test the waters of the world’s largest freshwater lake.

Together we made our way to the dock.

Or there’s the linear 40-kilometre trail known as the Kabeyun, where rugged shale and gravel combined with steep gradients are all part of the deal. It’s the longest interior trail in Sleeping Giant park, home to the highest cliffs in Ontario, a towering 250 metres, and the oldest rock on earth, over 2.5 billion years old (a.k.a. Canadian Shield).

For years my other half was talking about visiting the old Sleeping Giant with our friend Duilio Ringressi, an avid mountaineer and hiker. Sadly, our dear friend passed away from cancer, making our trip a sort of dedication to his memory. “Duilio always wanted to hike in Canada but never made it this far,” murmured Stephen, negotiating the killer trail now splayed with rocks on either side.

There wasn’t much preparation. We had a few goals: hike Sleeping Giant, kayak Lake Superior and sail past the park.

Camping gear packed, bug spray stored and sandals ready

“Take the paddle,” said our guide, Dave Clements, and off we went down the winding McIntyre River, loons overhead as the river spilled into the harbour. The shoreline of Thunder Bay, sheltered by the lichen-covered breakwater, became our sea-kayaking sanctuary.

“You don’t want to be going for a dip just yet,” I joked to Suzanne, who was looking unsteady in her kayak, racing ahead.

“You trying to scare me?”

“No, she’s trying to tell you the water’s just above freezing, and that means you only have about a couple of minutes before hypothermia sets in,” bleats Dave from a ways up.

Weaving through the industrial waterfront between docked lake freighters (lakers), that old Gordon Lightfoot song, “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald,” came to mind. Our sea kayaks thankfully remained upright, and we completed our three-hour excursion with the Sleeping Giant still slumbering on the horizon.

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The next morning, Captain Gregory Heroux from Sail Superior took us past the Sleeping Giant to an old abandoned lighthouse on Angus Island, regaling us with stories along the way. Lake Superior is a nautical highway with schooners, lakers and salties (ocean-faring vessels), and the many shipwrecks strewn on the lakebed around Isle Royale are a testament to the untamed nature of this inland sea.

Local Legends

Kabeyun is Ojibway for Mighty West Wind, and in Ojibway legend he is the father of Nanabijou, Sleeping Giant. The locals recall how Nanabijou was the deep-sea water god who was turned into a rock formation after his tribe revealed the whereabouts of a rich silver mine to the white man. The god now lies sleeping, as viewed in the geological formations of mesas and sills along the peninsula. But on unforgiving days, you can quickly feel the turning weather patterns with blowing strong winds, shrouds of fog and three-metre-high waves, making some think the Sleeping Giant is still showing his power.

“It’s one of the lakes you have to respect. In a half hour it could change. It’s one of the most amazing places in the world to sail, and I’ve sailed in lots and lots of places,” beamed Gregory from the helm.

Sailing by Sleeping Giant past Pie Island, Gregory alerted us: “Over there is Peeping Squaw. She only sticks her head up at certain times. If she doesn’t see her husband Nanabijou come home she won’t stick her head out,” he winked, explaining the lore of this looming rock face.

For our final morning, Gregory recommended choosing a day hike among Sleeping Giant’s seven nature trails. We took the 1.7-kilometre Sibley Creek Trail, which led through mixed forest with marshes and beaver dams. With the late summer upon us, the hues were already changing. We could only imagine how vibrant the place would become in the last days of autumn. Interpretive signs throughout the trail explained the rich Aboriginal heritage. We learned how the Ojibway used wild sarsaparilla for tea and homemade root beer, and that the needles from the old-growth eastern white cedar

that flourishes in the area were boiled to prevent scurvy.

We were both entranced by the beauty of Sleeping Giant. As the sun blazed and the rushing creek churned over the smooth shale riverbed, we lingered in a quiet moment – that didn’t last for long.

A sudden burst of breaking branches disrupted our solitude. Was it Sleeping Giant awakening? Or perhaps a curious black bear finally announcing its presence?

Whichever – we knew our dear friend Duilio would have wholeheartedly approved.

PLAN AHEAD

When to go: Fall, for the cascading foliage.

What to bring: Backpack, snacks, SPF, water bottle, compass, digital camera, trail guides you can purchase at the visitor centre for $1.

What to do: Kayak with Dave Clements from WildWaters Canoe & Kayak Sales & Rentals (807-622-7200 • kayakthunderbay.com). Hike over 80 km of interior hiking trails and seven nature trails which have a combined length of 10 km. Watch the spectacular fall colours change among the mountain maples, white birch, green and speckled alder, beaked hazelnut, tamarack, balsam poplar and pin cherry. Sail half-day trips with Sail Superior until Oct. 15, 2011 (location: Pier 3, Prince Arthur’s Landing Marina • 807-628-3333 • sailsuperior.com).

Where to eat: Good News Cafe, a friendly neighbourhood bistro specializing in international cuisine, packs in spice with chipotle chicken panini and sizzling Mediterranean grill (807-623-5001 • goodnewscuisine.com).

Where to sleep: Sleeping Giant Provincial Park’s Marie Louise Lake Campground.

Camping is available until mid-October (807-977-2526, or toll-free: 1-800-ONT-PARK [668-7275] • ontarioparks.com).

Available at Better Retail Shops Across Canada. For More Information, Call 1.877.771.7671 Offert chez les détaillants de qualité à l’échelle du Canada. Pour de plus amples renseignements, appelez au 1.877.771.7671

© Christian Wheatley

© Aurora Creative

Fall is the time leaves turn glorious gold and red, the temperature cools slightly and kids go back to school.

With smaller crowds and refreshing temperatures, it’s a wonderful time to head out for some R&R, either alone or with a cherished partner. The following three easy-to-get-to destinations will calm your mind, energize your body and let your spirit soar.

Eat

By Bryen Dunn The Township of Uxbridge has the distinction of being called the “Trail Capital of Canada” (you can find maps and descriptions on their site, town.uxbridge.on.ca).

Located on the slopes of the Oak Ridges Moraine just 70 kilometres northeast of Toronto, it has a trail system that includes eight separate paved routes totalling about 20 kilometres, all within the town limits.

Sections of four larger trail systems extend far beyond the township boundaries: the Trans Canada Trail, Oak Ridges Moraine Trail, Toronto Region Conservation Authority/Durham Region Trail, and Township of Uxbridge Trail. For a uniquely historical (and less strenuous) view of the Oak Ridges Moraine, hop on a vintage coach excursion with York Durham Heritage Rail ($23 for adults • ydhr.ca), travelling on the old Toronto and Nipissing Railroad route from 1871 – it’s especially popular during the colourful autumn season.

R&R The Uxbridge Manor and Spa (uxbridgemanorandspa.com • 1-877-214-7272) is an all-season B&B with full spa services on site, making it a perfect way to end a strenuous day of outdoor adventure. It’s situated on 10 acres of meticulously groomed landscape, with farm animals, artist sculptures and various other amenities made from recycled materials. The proprietors’ hospitality experience shines, and they even sell their own line of spa products. Various theme packages are available (starting at $420) for men, women and couples.

The town of Uxbridge has several dining options for those making a full-day excursion to the area, including small cafés, fine dining and pub grub. Start your afternoon with a sumptuous gourmet coffee at Tin Cup Café (905-862-3500). Great dinners can be found at the 100-percent gluten- and wheat-free Frankie’s Ristorante (mains around $20 • frankiesristorante.ca • 905-852-1011) or the Tin Mill (mains around $12 • tinmill.ca • 905-862-0553). Quench your thirst at the Manchester Arms (905-852-6556) or Hobby Horse Arms (hobbyhorsearms.com • 905-852-6126).

Play TRAILS: There are over 200 kilometres of marked trails within the township’s 8,000 acres of protected conservation area, winding in and out of forests and beside creeks and ponds. These multi-use single- and double-track trails are used year-round for walking, hiking, cycling, cross-country skiing, equestrian, and limited snowmobiling. The terrain varies from challenging rolling hills to accessible meadows and wetlands. One of the longer routes is located within the East Duffins Headwaters area, which has over 100 kilometres of trails spread throughout the Durham Regional Forest, providing habitat and food supply for a variety of birds and wildlife. The Trans Canada Trail runs through Uxbridge via the abandoned CN rail line from Lindsay, then heads south through Durham Forest lands, the Glen Major Forest and out to the UxbridgePickering town line.

GEOCACHING: In this outdoor activity, you search for hidden containers using only a handheld GPS loaded with geographical coordinates. The area is packed with

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them, just waiting to be found (for lists of geocaches, go to geocaching.com).

OTTAWA Wakefield

By Ilona Kauremszky Twenty-five minutes northeast of Ottawa, you’ll find the sight of galloping horses around a historic steam train town. Enjoy an excursion through fall foliage, surrounded by farmland and Canadian Shield outcroppings, past golden meadows and ponds and down canopied trails. Whether you canter, trot or hike, boho-chic Wakefield has plenty of panorama to offer.

R&R The bed and breakfast in the main ranch house of Captiva Farms ($189 package • captivafarms.com/ bed-and-breakfast • 1-877-459-2769) has a shared bathroom and no earthly distractions – no phone, clock radio or TV – but there’s Wi-Fi and plenty more to keep you occupied. The overnight package includes two days of unlimited riding, riding lessons, access to the whirlpool and sauna, plus a full country breakfast with organic wild blueberry buckwheat pancakes, local maple syrup and farm-fresh eggs and sausages. A 13,000-square-foot extension of the Wakefield Mill Inn (rooms from $250, includes breakfast • wakefieldmill. com • 1-888-567-1838) includes a 13-room eco-river lodge ideal for nature lovers. Luxurious with modern furnishings, the inn’s full-service spa (60-minute Swedish massage is $95) and on-site dining make for some delightful R&R. Don’t miss the cold river pool in La Pêche River and the outdoor hot tub.

© CCN – Gatineau Park

TORONTO Uxbridge

Eat

© wasagabeach.com

The funky Asian resto Soupçon (soupcon.ca • 819-459-1445), is a lively 30-seat eatery where diners enjoy the fall sunsets from a patio overlooking the Gatineau River.

The chefs use only the finest ingredients: sustainable fishing methods for seafood, three vegetable farms for greens, and a bonafide mushroom picker for the chanterelles. The mains ($15) don’t change (spicy Pad Thai noodles, fat Mike noodles and others), but specials switch daily. Kaffé 1870 (mains $10 • kaffe1870.com • 819-459-3943) is a popular neighbourhood watering hole on Riverside Drive, packing in diners for lunch and dinner. The menu changes from day to day but fresh local produce is always guaranteed. Try the smoked meat sandwiches, Greek chicken wrap or a layered taco dip.

Play HORSEBACK RIDING: Offering diverse terrain over 20 kilometres of trails and horses for all skill levels, the 450-acre Captiva Farms ($17–$40, lessons available • captivafarms.com • 1-877-459-2769), is just five minutes east from Wakefield. Surrounded by open fields, hills and large ponds popular with white-tailed deer, this nature sanctuary gets even better at a trot.

Head inward for creeks and steep terrain – the whiteknuckle jaunt uphill with a sure-footed horse is worth the fabulous vista of Edelweiss Valley and the adjacent buffalo farm.

HIKING: Geared for all skill levels, over 150 kilometres of trails are available at Gatineau Park (free • canadascapital.gc.ca • 1-800-465-1867). Try the 2.5-km, intermediate-level King Mountain Trail for panoramic views of the valley, or one of the most popular hikes, the 2.5-km Pink Lake Trail around

the meromictic lake, resembling green paint with its fluorescent algae hue. There are some steep cliffs, but a boardwalk, staircases and viewing platforms have made this hike quite enjoyable. The groves of red and white oak paint the surrounds in rich reds and deep purples, all in time for the popular Fall Rhapsody festival (Oct. 1–16, 2011).

• 705-429-3685) offers a unique Portuguese cuisine experience. Specializing in beef and seafood, their “hot rock” granite plates keep your meal warm while you dine. There are also great pasta dishes and a fantastic wine selection. For those wanting to keep the night going, Bananas Beach Club (bananasbeachclub.com) or the Dardenella (dard.com) are the local hotspots.

Play

TORONTO Wasaga Beach

By Bryen Dunn Most people think of Wasaga Beach as a place for hot summer days, and although the largest freshwater beach in the world is a sunbather’s paradise, it’s also a four-season destination for adventure seekers.

Only 90 minutes north of Toronto, and offering nearly 15 kilometres of sandy shore on Nottawasaga Bay, there’s no shortage of space to lounge, enjoy a game of volleyball or ride the waves. There’s plenty of history to discover, such as the Nancy Island Historic Site, which opened as a single building in 1928 to house the remains of the ill-fated Nancy warship, and now includes a theatre, museum, replica lighthouse and outdoor artifacts. Also worth a visit is Fort Willow, commemorating the War of 1812. For general Information on the area, check out wasagabeach.com or wasagainfo.com.

eTRAILS: The Simcoe County Trail system (simcoecountytrails.net) runs throughout the area, providing plenty of tracks for hiking, cycling, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Wasaga Beach Provincial Park offers car-free trails through pine-oak

forest, wetlands and across sand dunes. The Stars Orienteering Club has a winter adventure race that can be done solo or in teams.

WATERSPORTS: Try canoeing and kayaking down the Nottawasaga River, or sign up for the popular rainbow trout fishing derby, which happens annually in October and is organized by the Wasaga Beach Fishing and Gaming Club ($25 per entry • wbfgc.ca). For guided adventures and equipment rentals, nearby Collingwood has Eagle Adventures (eagleadventureexperiences.com) with snorkelling, zodiac and glass-bottom kayak tours to the wreck of the Mary Ward vessel. They also have board sails, sand bikes and walk-on-water devices for rent.

R&R There’s no shortage of accommodations in the area, from rustic cabins to luxury resorts. For something a bit different, local operator Fishing On My Time ($70 per person • fishingonmytime.com) offers overnight packages on board their fully equipped private boats, allowing for great sunset viewing. The Mallard’s Nest Guesthouse (from $95 • mallardsnest.ca) is located right on the quiet Nottawasaga River, minutes from the bustling beach area, and includes a full hearty breakfast.

YOUR SPRING GETAWAY ONLY 10 MINUTES FROM DOWNTOWN OTTAWA

Eat This is primarily a beach resort town, so dining is fairly casual. The Georgian Circle Family Restaurant (mains from $12 • georgiancircle.com • 705-429-2773) is known for steaks, seafood and their Sunday brunch.

The 50’s & 60’s Diner serves all-day breakfast (under $10 • 705-422-1182) complete with homemade bread and jams. For something a bit more upscale, Barcelos (mains from $15–$25 • georgianbayselect.com/barcelos

LOCATED AT THE ENTRANCE OF GATINEAU PARK 16, CHEMIN NORDIK OLD CHELSEA (QC)

T 819 827.1111 1 866 575.3700

ADVENTURA _ FALL 2011 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 15

OPEN 7 DAYS 9AM TO 10PM

VISIT US AT LENORDIK.COM

PARKS CANADA IS 100 YEARS OLD

The

BEST

of Our National Parks

One hundred years ago, Canada became the first country in the world to establish a national parks service. Today, the service manages a network that includes national parks, national historic sites and national marine conservation areas. Of the 42 parks on their roster, eight are spread across Ontario and Quebec. So why not join in on the birthday celebration?

ONTARIO

© Tourisme Ontario

BRUCE PENINSULA NATIONAL PARK OF CANADA Location: On the northern end of the peninsula separating Georgian Bay from Lake Huron, near Tobermory.

Created: In 1987, as part of an agreement with the Government of Ontario involving the transfer of Cypress Lake Provincial Park and “willing buyer-willing seller” land purchases.

Size: 156 square kilometres, but a small portion is still private land holdings.

Open: The park is open year-round, with longer hours during the summer season.

Best time to go: In early spring, late autumn and winter, the weather can be highly variable, so summer is a great time to visit – just reserve early, as campgrounds can fill up in July and August.

Best side trip: Right next door is Fathom Five, Canada’s first National Marine Conservation Area, which includes

© Michel Julien

By Stephania Varalli

22 shipwrecks, several historic light stations and the unique geology of Flowerpot Island.

Look for: Orchids. Of the roughly 60 species in Ontario, 43 can be found in the park.

The park may be relatively new, but the landscape is ancient. The dolomite limestone that mostly makes up the cliffs along the Georgian Bay shoreline – the northern end of the Niagara Escarpment – began forming a few hundred million years ago, and the cedar trees blanketing the current landscape are up to a thousand years old. On the western coast you’ll find sandy beaches; along the east, the Bruce Trail runs through the park along the escarpment’s edge, on the way to its end point in nearby Tobermory. There are a few short access trails to get you from the drive-up campgrounds to the cliffside views of the crystal-clear water below and the two hike-in campsites that can be found along the Bruce. It’s not just fun on foot, though: paddlers and swimmers are spoiled not only by the Georgian Bay coast but also the calm lakes dotting the park’s interior, there’s bouldering at Halfway Log Dump, and if you can wait till winter, head out on cross-country skis or snowshoes.

GEORGIAN BAY ISLANDS Location: On the southeast shore of Georgian Bay, only 170 kilometres from Toronto.

Created: December 28, 1929.

Size: 63 islands call this park home, fitting into just under 14 square kilometres.

Open: The park is open year-round, but services only run from mid-May to Thanksgiving.

Best time to go: In early fall you’ll find fewer bugs, fewer people and warmer water.

Best trail: The Fairy Lake Trail on the north end of Beausoleil Island offers stunning views of Georgian Bay as you hike over the rounded pink granite of the Canadian Shield.

Look for: Turtles dotting the shorelines.

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This group of Georgian Bay Islands was one of the first national parks established in eastern Canada – and for good reason. Their unique landscape combines the thick hardwood forests of the south with the ruggedness of the northern Canadian Shield, featuring exposed rock and windswept white pines. You can only get to the park by boat (it’s called “Islands” for a reason), but don’t fret if you don’t have your own: the park’s own Daytripper makes the 15-minute journey to Beausoleil Island three times daily in the summer. There you’ll find well-marked hiking trails along with visitor facilities, docks, rustic cabins and over 100 campsites in total – both of the secluded, primitive variety and the kind with flush toilets. Camping at Honeymoon Bay offers some spectacular scenery, and nearby Goblin Bay has some of the best sunsets on Georgian Bay. POINT PELEE Location: Near Leamington, on Lake Erie, on the southernmost point of mainland Canada.

Created: Established in 1918, primarily for its ecological significance as a stopover for migratory birds.

Size: 15.5 square kilometres, but about two-thirds of that is marsh.

Open: The park is open year-round, but for day use only.

Best time to go: Hours are longer between April and October, and more services are available.

Best view: Take the Boardwalk trail through the marsh and head up the tower for an awe-inspiring vista, or stick around for the stars: the park was designated a Dark Sky Preserve by the Royal Astronomical Society of Canada in 2006.

Look for: Birds! Each spring and autumn, the park serves as an important rest stop on their migration between tropical wintering grounds in the south and the northern boreal forest.

Yes, there’s a lot of marsh – one of the largest remaining freshwater marshes on the southern Great Lakes, and it’s

teeming with life. There’s also mature forest, savannah, swamp forest, dunes and beaches. Spend your day wandering along 15 kilometres of hiking trails and you may see sunning painted turtles, the rare Swamp Rose Mallow, the eastern prickly pear cactus, the eastern fox snake and the five-lined skink (to name a few). Once you’ve planted your feet on Canada’s southernmost tip and marvelled at the many ecosystems packed into such a tiny place, why not stop for a picnic? Shelters are conveniently equipped with charcoal barbecues, picnic tables and nearby parking.

PUKASKWA NATIONAL PARK OF CANADA Location: On the north shore of Lake Superior, just south of the town of Marathon, east of Thunder Bay. Created: In 1978, named after the Pukaskwa River, and pronounced Puck-a-saw.

Size: 1,878 square kilometres, the largest in Quebec and Ontario.

Open: The park is open year-round.

Best time to go: Especially if you plan on backcountry camping, try late summer or early autumn for fewer bugs and less deadfall.

Best bridge: The White River suspension bridge, reconstructed and reopened in July, offers an exhilarating view, and it’s reachable on a day hike.

Look for: Caribou. They are not easy to find, so you’ll need sharp eyes and a little luck.

If you’re looking for true wilderness, you’ve met your match in Pukaskwa. From dense boreal forest to the exposed bedrock of the Canadian Shield to the shores of Lake Superior, this massive park protects a backcountry that begs to be explored. The 60-kilometre Coastal Trail is a challenging, hilly route, and most visitors hire a water taxi (try McCuaig Marine Services, 807-229-0193) to drop them off at the North Swallow River campsite, and then work their way back to the park’s entrance. If you can’t live without

Wi-Fi, a shower and a flush toilet, there are drive-up sites at Hattie Cove, and a few day-hike possibilities.

ST. LAWRENCE ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK OF CANADA Location: In the 1,000 Islands region of the St. Lawrence River, about halfway between Toronto and Montreal.

Created: Established in 1904, it was the first national park east of the Rockies.

Size: About 24 square kilometres, after doubling in size through new land acquisitions in 2005.

Open: The park is open year-round, but services and facilities are only maintained between Victoria Day and Thanksgiving.

Best time to go: In the autumn you’ll find less of the pleasure boat crowd, making it a great time for canoeing or kayaking the islands.

Best by boat: The Admiralty Islands are popular with kayakers, with sights like the Half Moon Bay “Cathedral,” celebrating services in the open air since 1887.

Look for: Geocaches. There are about eight of them hidden in the park.

Perched on the southern edge of the Canadian Shield, La Mauricie still shows traces of the Ice Age. Since it’s a transition zone, you’ll find plants and animal species from both the northern and southern regions, rounded mountains covered by coniferous and deciduous forests, and a multitude of lakes, streams and rivers. To take it in at a hiker’s pace, test yourself on the 75-kilometre Laurentian Trail, which must be completed end to end (usually in five days). There are other trails to enjoy, of varying lengths and difficulty, as well as 30 lakes accessible for canoeing and kayaking, 30 kilometres of mountain bike trails, over 60 kilometres of pavement for roadies, and enough campsites to fit all these paddlers, cyclists and hikers for the night. During winter and spring you’ll find a multitude of snowshoeing trails, as well as 80 kilometres of groomed ski trails, both classic and skate, with heated shelters every five kilometres. So it’s not really a question of when to go, it’s what are you going to do when you get there?

MINGAN ARCHIPELAGO Location: In the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, between Anticosti Island and Quebec’s Middle North Shore.

Created: In 1984, to preserve a representative sample of the St. Lawrence Eastern Lowlands.

Size: 110 square kilometres, comprising about 20 islands and 1,000 islets.

Open: Year-round, but campgrounds and the visitor centre are open June to September, and more boat services are available from mid-June to the end of August.

Best time to go: For the greatest number of birds and flowering plants, try midJune to the beginning of July. For the smallest number of people, head out in the second halves of June and August.

Best-known birds: Atlantic puffins can be found both in the eastern section of the archipelago, in the Betchouanes migratory bird sanctuary, and also in the west, on Île de la Maison and Île aux Perroquets.

Look for: Stone monoliths, the twisted natural sculptures shaped by the elements.

They’re called “flowerpots” locally, and the park has the largest concentration in Canada.

Scattered between the mouth of the Saint-Jean River to the west and the Aganus River to the east, the park extends for nearly 150 kilometres along the north shore of the St. Lawrence, offering up a wide variety of ecosystems, including woodlands, coastlines, barrens, peat bogs, cliffs and lakes. The western section is a rocky limestone environment where most of the monoliths can be found. It’s ripe with hundreds of species of plant life, nesting seabird colonies and migrating shorebirds, plus visiting whales and seals. The East sector, part of the Canadian Shield, is where the nearly 1,000 granite islets are concentrated. Only six of the islands have campgrounds, and you’ll need to reserve a boat or bring your own to get out there (best left to experienced paddlers who can deal with tricky navigation and changeable weather). Short and easy trails make day trips worthwhile, like the Poète Jomphe loop on Île Niapiskau, featuring the Dame de Niapiskau monolith, or a hike to the centre of Île Quarry, revealing the fascinating dead cliff.

RESERVE YOUR SPOT While some sites operate on a first-come, first-served basis, it’s best to check if reservations are required to avoid disappointment. Some backcountry sites are free of charge, but most require a small payment, and even if you’re not staying overnight you can expect to pay park entry fees.

For Georgian Bay Islands, Bruce Peninsula, Forillon and La Mauricie, camping and cabin reservations can be made at pccamping.ca, or by phone: 1-877-RESERVE. For other parks, check out pc.gc.ca for more info.

© Park Forillom

There are 24 islands, 129 islets and eight mainland areas that collectively make up the St. Lawrence Islands park, promoting sustainable recreation in the popular 1,000 Islands tourist region. The massive network of islands is made up essentially of granite mountaintops, carved out by glacial movement and then flooded by the St. Lawrence River. Touring a few is worth it, as you’ll find unique characteristics on each, from barren rock to thriving woodland and diverse plant and animal life. As the name suggests, much of the park can only be reached by boat, including the campsites located on 12 of the islands. If you’d rather stick to dry land, check out the visitor centre at Mallorytown Landing, and don’t miss the network of trails at Landon Bay – the Lookout Trail has one of the best panoramic views of the region.

Created: In 1970, to safeguard an area in the Great Lakes–St. Lawrence Precambrian Region.

Size: 536.7 square kilometres, but only the southeast area is accessible in winter.

Open: The park offers services and activities year-round.

Best time to go: Depends what activity you’re interested in!

Best in snow: The new, intermediate-level Lac Solitaire snowshoeing trail.

In just 6.5 kilometres there are more than a dozen lookout points over the surrounding lakes and forests.

Look for: History and culture, like the rock painting on Wapizagonke lake, the Wabenaki and Andrew heritage lodges, and the remains of the Laurentian fish and game club. While you may not want to run into them, La Mauricie is also the only national park in Canada home to packs of Eastern wolves.

QUEBEC FORILLON Location: The northeast end of the Gaspé Peninsula.

Created: In 1970, as Quebec’s first national park.

Size: 240.4 square kilometres, shaped roughly like a triangle.

Open: The park is open year-round. While services are more available between June and October, the park also offers winter activities, including camping.

Best time to go: To enjoy blooming wildflowers and pebble beaches, head down in summer.

Best bird’s-eye view: At 283 metres high, the Mont Saint-Alban Tower offers a panorama of the Bay of Gaspé and the Forillon Peninsula, and sights including Canada’s tallest lighthouse and Percé Rock.

Look for: Seven different species of whale, including the world’s largest animal, the blue whale.

Jutting out into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the narrow, mountainous peninsula that houses Forillon marks the end (or beginning) of the Appalachian chain.

Highway 132 cuts through the park, and you can take secondary roads to serviced campgrounds, the start of hiking trails and launch points for water activities like sea kayaking, whale-watching cruises, fishing and scuba diving. Seaside cliffs and pebble beaches border the thick forest of the interior, where you’ll find backcountry campsites along the challenging Les Crêtes and Les Lacs trails, as well as a number of routes for beginner or intermediate trekkers. If you’re a history buff, check out the restored buildings and exhibits paying homage to the fishing villages of the early 20th century at the Grande-Grave Heritage Site.

LA MAURICIE Location: In the centre of Quebec, north of Trois-Rivières, halfway between Quebec City and Montreal.

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GLOBE-TROTTER

MALAWI

Into the

HEART

© Vincenzo Tessarin

of AFRICA

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By the fog-draped terraces of Mount Mulanje, the outlines of stocky tea bushes rising from the reddened earth are barely visible. The landscape is dotted with yellow-raincoated tea pickers who ascend the soft slopes with woven baskets harnessed to their backs.

By Ilona Kauremszky

The odd bicycle whizzes by, but the majority of travel in remote, mysterious Malawi is by foot. Few venture to this overlooked land, opting instead for South Africa’s busy game reserves where ballooning crowds are led around in herds, or to Kenya where tourists mill about like swarming ants.

Malawi is the place for diehards, for land worshippers and soul seekers. Sometimes dubbed the “Switzerland of Africa” for its mellow approach to outsiders, the country is naturally open-armed and welcoming; a young Malawian I met there described his country as safe and his countrymen and women as gentle. I have to agree.

Louise Hahn-Perepeczko, whose mother once ran a successful rose-exporting business flying the fragrant flowers to the Netherlands, explained it this way: “We keep our noses clean and stay out of everyone else’s business. Nobody has any beef with us!” She assures me I don’t have to worry about getting raped or murdered here; she cannot, however, guarantee that my shirt won’t get stolen. “Nothing serious will ever happen to you in Malawi.”

Continued on page 20 ADVENTURA _ FALL 2011 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 19

Continued from page 19

Malawi remains refreshingly secluded, thankfully spared the self-important airs now increasingly present in the more developed African countries.

That’s what drew my husband and me to this small landlocked country slightly bigger than Newfoundland.

It was a quest to experience a nation we’d been told is in transition, a journey into the heart of Africa. What we discovered was a rich underbelly waiting to be scratched.

Madonna recently put Malawi on the map by adopting not one but two young children from here. During our visit this past spring we marvelled at the magnificent expanse of the Mount Mulanje massif in the southeast and the white-capped waters of majestic Lake Malawi.

Between the two, lively villages like Mua, home to the Mua Mission, revealed a proud ancient people wrestling with modernity and tradition.

MOUNT MULANJE BECKONS Thundering rain roared loud and hard on our first night.

It was the tail end of the rainy season and the recordbreaking precipitation totals were off the charts. Flash floods had wreaked havoc on villages in the foothills of Mount Mulanje a month before.

To boot, Malawi was in the throes of a full-blown gas crisis and endless lineups were spotted at the alltoo-rare gas pumps. “No one can travel easily here,” she said. Cyclists, called njinga in the local Chichewa language, were everywhere.

Lively villages like Mua, home to the Mua Mission, revealed a proud ancient people wrestling with modernity and tradition.

The rain continued to pound down as I spoke with Peter Mahowa, who runs the Kara O’Mula Country Lodge, a renovated colonial building from 1905 situated at the foot of the mountain. The lodge is en route to

© iStockphoto

Some claimed the gods were angry at the deforestation caused by a population hungry for land and firewood.

Deemed a biosphere reserve in 2000, the slopes of Mount Mulanje, once densely covered with rainforests

of mahogany and Mulanje cedar, are now thick with tea bushes. A friend back home had put me in touch with Yvonne, originally from the Malawian city of Blantyre, who confessed, “We haven’t seen rain like this in years.”

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THE BEST: Famous for its rich marine life, Lake Malawi has the best scuba diving and snorkelling. Ideal for critter spotting with the lake’s 1500 fish species and counting.

THE WORST: Climate change is negatively affecting subsistence farming which results in drastic food shortages.

THE MOST BIZARRE: Roadside stalls selling a popular delicacy; salted field mice on a stick!

Mulanje Boma on the Boma path, one of the area’s popular hiking trails. Clearly proud of his pristine and peaceful corner of paradise, he waved a hand toward the panoramic views of the Phalombe Plains laid out before us and the Thyolo Highlands with their miles of tea plantations reaching to the horizon. “You can see all the way to Mozambique from here.”

But then he paused and added, whispering, “Sometimes people go up the mountain and meet spirits. There have been a few incidents where people go missing. They go hiking. They disappear. People associate this with the spirits.”

The locals believe an evil curse is behind the disappearance of hikers on Mulanje. To ward off these bad spirits, flowers are brought to the hilltops – quiet offerings to the mountain gods. Another legend involves the abundant pineapples on Mulanje slopes. They say if you dare to remove one, you too will

disappear. This is widely believed to be the explanation for the disappearance of a young Dutch hiker in 2003.

Overlooking a lush hollow, I followed Gift Kalambo, a local guide, as he waved for us to proceed in his direction. We negotiated a narrow footpath choked with mango and guava trees and reached the top of Namichira Falls, which provide fresh mountain water to the lodge.

“We have our water diverted from here so we can drink,” said hard-working Gift proudly. As we walked to the water’s edge, the 29-year-old father of three smiled shyly when I asked him about his future. “I wish to do many things,” he said.

Hikers can explore the area along the myriad footpaths made easily navigable by the Mountain Club of Malawi (MCM), which provides mapping and route information.

Tired hikers can rest up or stay overnight in one of the 10 huts scattered across the mountain. As the MCM-

me.’ But this mask is telling people, ‘Though I am like that, I am a full human being. Look, I have a normal sexual organ. If you give me a chance I can produce children for you,’” explained Robert, chuckling.

The centre is part of the Mua Mission and focuses on the Chewa, Ngoni and Yao cultures as well as the history of Christianity in Malawi. Robert proudly declared that his own tribe, the Chewa, is the only one in Malawi that still uses masks for the big dances called Gule Wamkulu. © Ilona Kauremszky

“Each mask has secrets. There are more than 10,000 masks with secretive powers,” he said. Then he added slyly, “The Chewa culture means respect, and secrets. If you want to know more you have to be initiated.” Okay, I thought to myself, bring it on. But it would have to wait for our next visit, as instead we turned our sights on Lake Malawi.

maintained facilities are equipped with mattresses, tables and kitchenware, hikers have less gear to carry.

It continued to pour as Gift shared some local history. This prehistoric granite massif is punctuated by 15 peaks; Sapitwa is the highest, reaching just over 3,000 metres. The name translates literally as “do not go there,” an omen perhaps for the faint-hearted but also a challenge to avid mountaineers. Old tales call the mountain an “Island in the Sky,” and with the mist rising and visions of Sapitwa in my head, I could see why.

“People who hike the Knife Edge can expect a stunning hike and a nice rest at one of the huts,” explained Gift as he described the trek up Mulanje.

Gnarly Brachystegia trees line the route along the Likhubula Stream as you ascend the steep Chapaluka path leading to the Chambe Basin. Hikers overnight at the Chambe hut then walk out of the basin and for two hours along the Knife Edge trail, which cuts between the massif and the basin.

“Endemic Mulanje cedar forests still cover the base of Sapitwa,” says Gift.

After a six-hour tramp across hilly terrain, hikers settle in for the night and unwind at Tuchila hut. Advanced hikers seeking to summit Sapitwa make a three-hour detour; they’ll need all the endurance they can muster for the hard scrabble up Sapitwa’s ridiculously steep slopes. Thankfully, red trail markers on the rock face lead the way. Also thankfully, we have not opted to attempt the climb...

SECRETS OF MUA MISSION About 350 kilometres or so to the north in Mua in the Dedza District, curator Robert Abel Kalindiza fiddled with a Kwakana face mask at the Kungoni Centre of Culture and Art. From his hands, a horned devil-like figure with bulbous eyes, painted ostrich shells and a sack for a beard peered over at me.

“Kwakana advises people that if someone is handicapped we should take care of them and not discriminate. Suppose a boy is handicapped. It’s very difficult to find a wife. Most people say, ‘Look at me, you can’t propose to

TO KNOW MORE:

• Malawi Department of Tourism: destination-malawi.com • Kungoni Centre for Culture and Art: kungoni.org; US$10 entry fee • The Mountain Club of Malawi: mcm.org.mw • Pumulani, A Robin Pope Safaris property: pumulani.com • Kara O’Mula Country Lodge: karaomula.com • For trip reservations, visit explore-malawi.com GETTING THERE: South African Airways has daily non-stop international flights from JFK to Johannesburg. From Johannesburg there are same-day connections to Lilongwe, Malawi (flysaa.com).

COST Plane : (from Canada) $2,250 (plus taxes) Local beer : A light pale lager Kuche Kuche meaning “bring in the dawn” costs 90 to 200 kwacha, about $0.60 to $1.50.

T-shirt : 800 kwacha (about $5)

THE SHORES OF LAKE MALAWI Signs of the Arab culture that once dominated this area are still evident along the shores of Lake Malawi, the country’s largest freshwater lake.

Mosques dot the flat countryside in between the fields of maize. I watched the steady stream of cyclists carrying neatly stacked firewood and bulging bags of tea with renewed respect – to say nothing of the awe I felt watching entire families on bicycles fly by, swaddled babies swaying from their mothers’ backs.

At Pumulani, a luxury eco-lodge overlooking the lake, resident guide Chris Kilner was overseeing the installation of a new telescope near the infinity pool. “We’ll be sure to see clearly from this vantage point,” he beamed, anticipating the stargazing opportunities. Pumulani lies within Lake Malawi National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Lake Malawi is the world’s most ecologically diverse lake, and Pumulani is perfectly situated to take advantage of all it has to offer. As a precaution, the lodge’s staff monitors the water actively for a nasty microscopic worm that can cause a disease in humans called bilharzia. “We have not had one reported case,” said Chris, describing the rigorous tests they perform. The disease is entirely preventable and once detected easily treated.

Non-motorized activities at Pumulani are all complimentary. On this afternoon, some guests opted for fishing – strictly catch-and-release as we were in a protected reserve; others took a hike or grabbed a mountain bike for a guided excursion to a local village. Still others snagged some snorkelling gear and kayaked a couple of hours to a spot dubbed “the aquarium” for its profusion of cichlid fish, nearly all endemic here. Upon returning they told tales of colourful cichlids nibbling at their toes and fingers and a veritable kaleidoscope of fish floating past their masks: assorted albinos, blues and two-tone iridescent yellows and blues.

Lying in the Western Rift Valley, Lake Malawi is one of the deepest lakes in the world. It is prized by scientists for the countless unique marine species sheltered in its unfathomable depths. “At last count 1,500 species were known,” quips Chris.

I am reminded of the story of another of the lake’s fans, young British swimmer Abigail Brown, who swam across Lake Malawi last fall. Not only did she break an 18-year-old record, she was the first female to achieve this feat. She did it out of respect and fascination for this lake, and her efforts raised money for local charities like the Chembe Village Projects and the Microloan Foundation.

Back at the lodge, exotic birds flitted by the deck of our secluded suite as the sun began to set. The dying light painted the granite boulders edging the waterfront a deep shade of orange. The smooth rocks perfectly placed by the shore seemed like giant marbles dropped from the sky eons ago.

For a moment, thoughts of home and Muskoka ran through my head. Wait, I’m in the heart of Africa. Nyami Nyami, the African water god, was with us.

TECHSTYLE

1

Fashionable

FALL

Whether it rains or it gets windy, our selection of the best innovations of this Fall will help you look super-stylish.

Photos by Christian Levesque (Š christianlevesque.com)

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1. Stormy Trail Jacket by The North Face ($170; thenorthface.com), Thermal Hat by Craft ($18; craft-usa.com).

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2. Jacket Drystein by Mountain Hard Wear ($449; mountainhardwear.ca); pants Quantum by Alizée ($119; naturmania.ca).

3. Cascade Hood by Icebreaker ($219; icebreaker.com) 4. Her: Jacket Heli DJ by Peak Performance ($500; peakperformance.com), pants Loiket SJ by Peak Performance ($85; peakperformance.com); boots Taku GTX by Vasque ($175; vasque.com). Him: Jacket Verglas 3L XP by Helly Hansen ($499; hellyhansen. com), backpack Peuterey 35 by Millet ($259; millet.fr).

Mattress Neo Air All Season by Therm-a-Rest ($150; cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest); Base Camp Pillow by Mountain Equipment Coop ($14; mec.ca).

5. Jacket Better than Naked by The North Face ($129; thenorthface.com)

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6. Jacket XA WS Softshell by Salomon ($199; salomon.com), top Supra Lite by Louis Garneau ($39; louisgarneau.com), sunglasses Heydey by Smith ($119; smithoptics.ca).

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7. Shoes XR CrossMax by Salomon ($150; salomon.com).

See all our photos from this shoot @ adventuramag.ca/style Our annual photo shoot was done in Montreal (for bicycle) and at La Réserve naturelle Gault du Mont Saint-Hilaire.

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1. Whisper Midlayer Hoody by Salomon ($99; salomonrunning.com); pants WORK IT PANT

by Oakley ($75; ca.oakley.com); shoes A86 TR by Keen ($120; keenfootwear.com), pak Speed 2R Auto-Cant

by Nathan ($24-$49; nathansports.com).

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2. Him: Sunglasses PivLock V90 Max by Smith ($139; smithoptics.ca); PXC Light Jacket by Craft ($129; craft-usa.com); shoes XR CrossMax by Salomon ($129; salomon.com); pak Speed 2R AutoCant by Nathan ($24-$49; nathansports.com).

Girls: Red Jacket Loiketz Zip by Peak Performance ($110; peakperformance.com); Purple jacket Better Than Naked 1/4 Zip by The North Face ($80; thenorthface.com).

3. Purple Jacket Illusion by Alizée ($59; naturmania.ca); Buttermilk Jacket Light Degree Hoody by Mountain Equipment Coop ($195; mec.ca).

4. XT Softshell Jacket by Salomon ($140; salomon.com).

5. Her (left): Top One Graphic LS by Helly Hansen ($65; hellyhansen.com), pants Loiket SJ by Peak Performance ($85; peakperformance.com). Him: Top Corbet by Peak Performance ($150; peakperformance. com). Her (right): Top Heli mid by Peak Performance ($175; peakperformance.com). Accessories : Tent Dragon tail by MSR ($499; cascadedesigns.com) , Mugs and plates Quick 2 System by MSR ($119; cascadedesigns.com); lamp Orbit by Black Diamond ($34; blackdiamondequipment.com); Fork/Spoon Spork

by Light my Fire ($2,50; lightmyfireusa.com); backpack Exorcist by Mountain Equipment Coop ($69; mec.ca).

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6. Her: Jacket Flux by Mountain Equipment Coop ($59; mec.ca); shoes Forge Pro Winter by Teva ($190; teva.com). Him: Jacket Jammu by The North Face made with Neoshell membrane by Polartec (n/d; thenorthface.com; polartec.com); shoes Forge Pro Winter by Teva ($190; teva.com); backpack Peuterey 35 by Millet ($259; millet.fr).

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7. Helmet Morano by Alpina ($99; alpina-sports.com), Jacket PXC Light by Craft ($120; craft-usa.com), pants Soland Ti by Louis Garneau ($109; louisgarneau.com), bicycle Silverstone SL 4 2012 by Devinci ($1,699; devinci.com).

8. Her: Helmet Morano by Alpina ($99; alpina-sports.com), top Geminix by Louis Garneau ($149; louisgarneau.com), pants Ultimate Chamois by Louis Garneau ($139; louisgarneau.com), bicycle Silverstone SL 4 2012

by Devinci ($1699; devinci.com). Him: Helmet Pheos by Alpina ($169; alpina-sports.com), sunglasses PivLock V90 Max by Smith ($139; smithoptics.ca), top SS Circuit Jersey

by Icebreaker ($149; icebreaker.com), pants Gemini Chamois Bib by Louis Garneau ($139, louisgarneau.com), bicycle Etape by Mountain Equipment Coop ($2,900; mec.ca).

9. Helmet Pheos by Alpina ($169; alpina-sports.com), sunglasses PivLock V90 Max by Smith ($139; smithoptics.ca), Top Corsa LS by Louis Garneau ($159; louisgarneau.com), shorts GT Cadence by Icebreaker ($149; icebreaker.com), bicycle Silverstone SL 4 2012 by Devinci ($1,699; devinci.com).

10. Helmet K.50 Evo by Kask ($150; kask.it), sunglasses Disclosure by Oakley ($150-$215; oakley.ca), Jacket PXC Light

by Craft ($120; craft-usa.com), bicycle Silverstone SL 4 2012

by Devinci ($1,699; devinci.com), Cargo Box Atlantis 1200

by Thule ($699; thule.com).

11. Helmet K.50 Evo by Kask ($150; kask.it), sunglasses Disclosure by Oakley ($150-$215; oakley.ca), top Lightweight Stretch Pullover by Craft ($80; craft-usa.com), pants Thermal Tights by Craft ($90; craft-usa.com), bicycle Etape by Mountain Equipment Coop ($2,900; mec.ca).

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11

[SOLAR PANELS TESTED]

COMPLETE AUTONOMY…

IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE!

By Marie-Soleil Desautels

TESTED FOR YOU From April to August, the Polytechnique team tested these solar panels with cellular phones, iPhones, iPods or mp3 players and even computers, for the more powerful systems. Some panels even travelled to Burkina Faso and to Burundi! Unless otherwise stated, they succeeded in providing a minimum of electricity – depending on the strength – to electronic equipment. However, cloudy days were the biggest challenge: when full sunshine was lacking, most systems couldn’t reach a battery charge of more than 40%, except Brunton’s, which powered up to 60%. Here’s the lowdown on their hits and misses.

Goal Zero Nomad 7 (goalzero.com)

SPECS: Cells: Monocrystalline silicon Maximum output: 7 W Built-in battery: No Output: USB (5V, 0.5 A) and DC (12V) Dimensions: 48 x 23 x 0.25 cm (unfolded); 15 x 23 x 2.5 cm (folded) Weight: 360 g Price: $100 DESIGN: Foldable panel in Cordura fabric with two cells; six rope handles serve as anchor points; the combination of rigid (read: breakable!) cells and soft support seems to work well.

TEST: Electronic equipment (USB or DC 12V) can be plugged into the solar panel directly without using an auxiliary battery. However, it is inconsistent: A battery provides precise power and current while a panel suffers from the presence of clouds, explains Goal Zero. For example, when an iPhone was plugged into the Nomad 7, it displayed a disconcerting error message. The sun must be strong for it to work well – they’re finicky devices, according to the Goal Zero engineers. The Polytechnique team suspects that the USB output power was irregular. Black fabric hinders performance (see Nomad 27 for details).

SATISFATION: 7/10

© Kyu Oh

COMMENTS: The USB outputs of Goal Zero’s next panels and batteries will be more powerful (5V, 1 A).

Solio Classic Photovoltaic solar panels are must-haves for nature lovers who also love technology.

To test six popular solar-powered systems, Adventura sought the expertise of a team led by Oumarou Savadogo, a professor specializing in solar energy at Montreal’s École Polytechnique. Conclusion? Pretty good, but buyer beware: Some claims made by manufacturers don’t quite measure up.

A modern outdoor adventurer’s kit often includes a plethora of essential electronics, but in the middle of nowhere, electricity isn’t easy to come by. Solution? Solar panels: they are the perfect piece of technology to autonomously recharge cellular phones, satellite phones, GPS devices, headlamps, cameras, camcorders or computers. All you need is a solar panel, a good rechargeable battery, some sun, and a whole lot of patience.

A solar panel captures the sun’s energy and converts that light into electricity. If its efficiency is 10%, one-tenth of the sun’s energy that hits the panel is transformed into electricity. The most effective ones, used in outer space, have an efficiency of about 33%. A panel connects numerous photovoltaic cells, which are all connected to each other. The cells are what produce electric current, so therefore the power of a solar panel increases with the number of cells: the bigger the solar panel, the more electricity it can produce.

One of the biggest factors in determining electricity output of a solar panel is the surface area of the cells. The sun can provide 5,000 Wh per square metre on a nice summer day, explains Oumarou Savadogo, but if it’s very cloudy, sometimes as little as 2% of this energy remains. The small size of camping solar panels affects their productivity, especially on darker days.

“You can’t expect miracles!” he warns.

There are several types of photovoltaic cells with varying qualities (see sidebar) and characteristics, both positive and negative. One basic notion

to keep in mind: the hotter it is, the less productive the cell is. In fact, up to 10% of the efficiency can be lost when the panel overheats. Conversely, cold reduces electric resistance, which is why electric conductivity is increased in the winter and decreased in the summer. If you plan on using the panels in the middle of the desert, it would be wise to opt for technology that is less heat-sensitive, or for a panel that is made to withstand heat.

In fact, Savadogo was disappointed in the design of some panels: Their stand was black, definitely not something that will improve performance!

To charge electronics, the use of an auxiliary battery is essential: it stores the energy produced by the solar panel. It can charge during the day, even when you’re on the go, and power up your equipment at the campsite in the evening. Some solar chargers have built-in batteries, while others require an external device or even support directly connecting certain devices to the sun-capturing panel. Note that some finicky electronics cannot be charged directly from a panel, so definitely be informed and do a round of testing at home before heading out. It’s also good to know your battery: Some can’t be used when their charge is less than 40%.

The ideal panel depends on the needs of your gear: Don’t think that a tiny 150-gram solar panel will generate enough power to boot up your laptop! Most manufacturers offer a plethora of adaptors for cellphones, camera batteries, etc. Know your needs and what’s included. Also, check connections to avoid frustration and be able to harness the sun’s power in peace.

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(solio.com)

SPECS: Cells: monocrystalline silicon Maximum output: 4.8 W Built-in battery: Yes 1650 mAh, 3.7V lithium-ion battery Output: 5-–6V (800 mAh) Charge time in full sunlight: 7–9 hours Dimensions: 11.94 x 3.30 x 6.35 cm Weight: 158 g Price: $99 DESIGN: “The first elegant green charger,” states Solio, the manufacturer. It’s definitely good-looking, but there’s only one hole in the middle of the deployed device to attach or support it. It seems destined to stay put, like on a table with a pencil planted in the middle

– definitely less handy when skiing, hiking or otherwise moving around.

The battery indicates charge levels by flashing up to five times (increments of 20%); can be recharged with a computer’s USB port.

TEST: Good performance when oriented directly toward the sun. The team was unable to charge electronic devices when the charge indicator indicated less than 40%.

SATISFACTION: 8/10

SolarFocus SolarMio 31

Powertraveller Powermonkey-eXplorer

(solarmio.com)

SPECS: Cells: Triple-junction amorphous Maximum output: 2.52 W Built-in battery: Yes 900 mAh; 3.7V rechargeable lithium polymer Output: USB (5V, 0.5 A) and DC (6V, 0.5 A) Charge time in full sunlight: 3 hours Dimensions: 22.5 x 23 x 0.55 cm (unfolded); 22.5 x 8 x 2 cm (folded) Weight: 230 g Price: $120 DESIGN: Relatively flexible panel; foldable case with plasticized finish and seams; protective envelope for the auxiliary battery; metal grommets in the four corners. Battery level indicator is a mere red or green light, can be recharged with a wall adaptor (120V) or in a car cigarette lighter. Feels fragile.

TEST: Due to the lack of a precise battery level indicator, judging its performance is difficult – and user experience is diminished.

The battery seems to lose charge after a few days.

(powertraveller.com)

SATISFACTION: 6/10 COMMENTS: Without a battery level indicator, we are blind. That being said, an important upgrade has been made since June 2011: an adaptor allows for the charging of compact camera batteries (3.6-3.7V lithium-ions).

The model tested wasn’t equipped with this new feature.

Goal Zero Nomad 27 panel and Sherpa 120 battery (goalzero.com)

SPECS: Nomad 27 panel Cells: Monocrystalline silicon Maximum output: 27 W Dimensions: 57.2 x 113 x 0.1 cm (unfolded); 26.7 x 17.8 x 2.5 cm (folded) Weight: 1.54 kg Price: $350 Sherpa 120 battery 10 Ah, 12V (120 Wh) lithium-iron-phosphate battery (LiFePO4) Output: USB (5V, 0.5A); DC 12V Charge time in full sunlight with Nomad 27: 6–10 hours Dimensions: 23 x 15 x 5 cm Weight: 1.7 kg Price: $400 DESIGN: Foldable panel in Cordura fabric with eight cells; four metal grommets; seems durable. Battery with LCD screen (five bar levels); can be recharged with a wall adaptor (120V) or in a car cigarette lighter; robust, rubber/silicone sleeve; limited output tensions.

PANEL TEST: So hot! After two hours of sunbathing, the panel was put in the shade and was still a scorching-hot 50°C. In the heat, monocrystalline silicon cells lose efficiency at a rate of 0.4% per degree over 25°C. The choice of black fabric isn’t a good one. So, why black? “For the look,” answered the Goal Zero engineers. Meanwhile, this choice makes efficiency plummet. White would be a better option – even though it would get dirty: the sun’s rays would be reflected by the fabric rather than absorbed, and this way, more rays would hit the cells. With similar specs to Brunton’s panel, this one is definitely less effective.

SPECS: Cells: Polycrystalline silicon Maximum output: 3.5 W Built-in battery: Yes 2200 mAh, 3.7V lithium-ion battery Output: 4.5–5.5V Charge time in full sunlight: 18 hours (6 hours for a third) Dimensions: panel: 22.5 x 7 x 0.5 cm (unfolded); 11 x 5 x 1 cm (folded); battery: 9 x 4.5 x 3.8 cm Weight: 165 g (without the adaptors) Price: $105 DESIGN: Rigid plastic panel; rubberized finish; robust, small and lightweight; Velcro strap makes it a cinch to attach pretty much anywhere. Battery with LCD screen (seven bar levels); can be recharged with a wall adaptor (120V) or a computer’s USB port.

TEST: The panel’s power is limited: it takes more than a full day of sunshine to charge the battery. At full capacity, it only boosted an iPhone’s battery by 60%. According to the spec sheet, one can expect to fully charge an iPhone. Was it defective?

SATISFACTION: 7/10 COMMENTS: Your camera’s battery is dead?

The Powermonkey can be used as a replacement in some models.

BATTERY TEST: Unfortunately, the battery only has two output tensions: USB and DC 12V, making a converter essential for charging computers that require 16V or 19V, for example.

At less than 40%, the battery is less effective in charging equipment. Keeps its charge well.

SATISFACTION: 8/10 COMMENTS: Great news: Goal Zero confirmed that their next batteries would have more output voltage.

Brunton Solaris 26 panel and Sustain battery (bruntonoutdoor.com)

YOUR EQUIPMENT To find the ideal panel for your needs, make a list of the electronics you want to charge. Also, check your equipment’s specs because, for example, there are several standards for USB outputs. And a few electricity basics are essential.

The magic formula: Power = Current x Voltage (W = A x V).

UAn example: The iPhone 4’s battery is 1420 mAh, 3.7V. Therefore, it has power of 5,254 Wh (1,420 x 3.7). To fully charge, a battery must have the same power as the iPhone. Even when full, a battery like the SolarMio 30 (900 mAh, 3.7V, therefore 3,330 Wh) will never be able to fully charge an empty iPhone in just one charge. In theory, it could charge it to 63%.

In practice, much less, due to external factors like heat loss and so on.

Cellular/satellite phones The Powermonkey-eXplorer, SolarMio 31 and Solio Classic are sold with several adaptors. Otherwise, it is usually possible to buy the adaptor you need. Always check if the solar system is compatible with your phone.

Remember that some devices, including iPhones, are finicky! Satellite phone batteries often require DC 12V to charge (like a car’s cigarette lighter), and such an adaptor usually comes with powerful panels.

AA, AAA batteries AA or AAA batteries are commonly found in GPS devises. If the solar

system has a USB output, all you need is a USB charger for compatible rechargeable batteries. Goal Zero makes the Guide 10 to charge AA or AAA batteries. Don’t forget to compare your power requirements with the panel’s output and battery’s requirements.

Camera Few things are more frustrating than missing a moment because of depleted batteries! Small digital camera batteries typically require between 3.4 to 3.7 volts; a USB output and special adaptor can provide them with electricity. Certain compact cameras can be charged directly from a USB output. On the other hand, SLRs require between 7.0 and 7.6 volts. For these devices, a 12V output works well with a universal charger: Consider Ansmann’s Digicharger Vario.

And my computer?

A powerful battery, like Brunton Sustain or Goal Zero’s Sherpa 120, is required. A converter is sometimes needed, depending on the outputs.

SPECS: Brunton Solaris 26 Panel Solar cells: CIGS Maximum output: 26 W (12V, 1600 mAh) Dimensions: 53 cm x 104 cm (unfolded); 28 cm x 20 cm x 2.5 cm (folded) Weight: 794 g Price: $646 Brunton Sustain Battery Lithium polymer battery 6 Ah, 73 Wh Output: USB 2.0 (5V, 1 A); 12V, 16V and 19V Charge time in full sunlight with Solaris 26: 4 hours Dimensions: 20 x 9.5 x 2.5 cm Weight: 595 g Price: $280 DESIGN: Very flexible panel with eight cells; rubbery finish that is water-resistant; seamless; metal grommets in the four corners; simple and seems durable.

Battery with level indicator (five lights, 20% increments); very practical with its numerous voltage outputs; can be charged with a wall adaptor (120V) or in a car’s cigarette lighter; rubberized sleeve, simple and seems durable.

PANEL TEST: During optimal sunlight conditions, the panel charged the battery from 0 to 80% in 60 minutes. The indicator then topped off

Editor’s note: Adventura thanks Professor Oumarou Savadogo of the École Polytechnique and student Javier Ricardo Galindo for their help in the completion of this report.

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at 80%. Overheats in the sun (up to 50°C). Among the panels tested, these offer the best performance during overcast periods thanks to CIGS cells.

The battery’s charge level nonetheless tops off at 60% during cloudy days.

BATTERY TEST: Charges very quickly. The panel wasn’t successful at charging the battery more than 80%. There are two hypotheses: the charge indicator doesn’t reflect reality, or overheating of the panel hinders overall performance, even though we’re dealing with CIGS cells.

Also, the team was unable to charge electronics when the indicator showed less than 40% charge. The battery keeps its charge after several days.

SATISFACTION: 9/10 COMMENTS: “In practical terms, this is the best system. CIGS photovoltaic cells are the future,” believes Oumarou Savadogo of the École Polytechnique.

© Willie B. Thomas

Sweating Together to

STAY TOGETHER How can lovers of different sports be in a healthy, happy relationship together?

By Jimmy Sévigny

Jeanne, 28 years old, has been running for 10 years. She believes that there’s no better way to keep mind and body healthy and that everyone should practise the sport. She hits the pavement four to six times per week and swears by this (and only this) activity. Her significant other is also active: He loves hiking and mountain biking. He prefers to practise physical activity in the great outdoors and doesn’t like to raise his heartbeat drastically. Clearly, they have very different interests, and instead of strengthening their bond, planning a physical activity together is often the source of frustration and fights. Is there a way out?

RESPECT ONE ANOTHER The more you force, the more likely your partner is to resist. Try asking for their company often, but politely. Your sugary-sweet invitation will be increasingly hard to refuse, and if you’re patient you’ll soon be heading out together. When this happens, don’t forget to express how happy you are to be spending time together. A woman once told me that her husband never wanted to run with her. After talking to him, he explained that his better half was always in a bad mood when he did a physical activity with her.

Remember that being active together shouldn’t be a source of tension, but a source of sharing.

TALK IT OUT Nothing beats good old communication when it comes to resolving a tense situation. By explaining to your partner how happy and healthy your favourite sport makes you feel, he or she is more likely to want to give it a try, but make sure this is true! If you return home from your activity of choice feeling unmotivated and upset, your partner will have no desire to

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give your sport a go. When your significant other decides to head out with you, make sure you take the time to tell him or her how much you enjoyed the couples activity... as long as it’s the truth, obviously!

PENCIL IT IN By scheduling an hour of couples physical activity per week, you’re tempting fate just a little bit less: Think of it as making an appointment for a healthy relationship. If either partner is a workaholic, he or she is likely to be sold on this method, because seeing the activity scheduled into a day makes it an obligation, not a happy coincidence. Plus, it’s all about priorities: If your hour of activity together comes after cooking, kids, ironing and watching eight episodes of reality TV, it’s safe to say that you’ll never get out there. By putting the activity at the top of your priorities, you’re ensuring that it actually will happen.

SET GOALS Before you head out together, set objectives. For example, Jeanne and Guy agreed that they would train together once a month. It might not sound like a lot, but it’s a start. Typically, the more realistic and modest the goals are, the more likely they are to be met. Take the time to write it down somewhere where you can see it, as a reminder that you have an agreement to honour as a couple. Furthermore, it might be a good idea to set clear boundaries beforehand. If you know that the cost of an activity can be a source of conflict, agree to not tackle the topic during the activity in order to put all the chances on your side.

BE FLEXIBLE It’s important to keep your partner’s skill level in mind.

How many times have I heard the following: “I’d love to cycle with my husband, but he’s much faster than I am and I’d just be slowing him down.” It’s important to understand that when you start something together, you finish together. If one party is just getting started while the other can barely breathe, the latter is likely to want to quit. Translation? The slower person sets the pace. This isn’t the time to get your dose of intense training: It’s about bonding and doing something physical together. If your spouse is up for a challenge, become his or her personal trainer, helping with goal setting and challenging them.

RECIPROCITY IS KEY If your significant other trains with you one day, return the favour and accompany him or her during their favourite activity another time. When both parties are making an effort, the chances of success are much higher. Have you converted him or her to running?

Then be receptive to their activity of choice. You just might fall for a new sport yourself!

way, you’ll show that you’re excited that they’ve decided to invest in spending time together. Plus, if you can help to make an educated decision, they will be comforted by the fact that you are knowledgeable in the matter. If this isn’t the case, read up in books or magazines together to find the best possible gear.

If you’ve tried all these tricks and nothing seems to work, don’t force it. Maybe your significant other simply prefers solo activities. Many people need to spend time alone to think. Others prefer to train alone to avoid judgment. If this is the case, you must respect your partner’s preference. However, if he or she spends most of their time alone and it’s hurting your relationship, have a heart-to-heart about it. Who knows? Maybe they’ll change their mind someday.

Jimmy Sévigny has a degree in physical activity. Once morbidly obese, he is now a television correspondent, speaker and accomplished athlete (jimmysevigny.com).

SHOP TOGETHER If your spouse wants to buy a road bike but knows nothing about them, go with them to the store. This ADVENTURA _ FALL 2011 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 29

© christianlevesque.com

LAST CALL

Hawaii’s Big Island THE TOOLS: Nikon D300s, 24-70mm f/2.8 lens, ISO 400, f/6.3, 1/640 second

- Christian Levesque, photojournalist

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During this 11-day cycling trip organised by Sur la Route, a new Quebec travel agency for cyclists, we have climbed on wheels some 8,000 metres – totally worth the effort when you consider the breathtaking descents, where you lean on your handlebars and soak in the beauty of the island. Cycling really is a spectacular way to explore this remarkable corner of the world. This image was taken on the Kapoho Kalapana Road, just South of Pahoa: a grandiose sight that made for one of the best rides of my cycling life. Pedalling along in the majestic surroundings is a strong reminder of how lucky we are to be living this life!

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Stay warm in the fresh air... and get yourself some air!

With this soft, warm full-zip fleece jacket, which provides versatile heat retention in varying conditions, you’ll definitely be up for it.

So wherever you want to go, Merrell shoes and clothing will get you there.

Find out how at merrell.com

© Wolverine Outdoors 2011

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