Adventura - Spring 2010

SPRING ACTION HE7: 9O9B?D= 7J C7H=K;H?J; :ÊOEKL?BB; HE9A 9B?C8?D= ?D ;BEH7 7;H?7B JH;AA?D= ?D L7B#:;I#CEDJI 7D: CK9> CEH;

HURTIG SO GOOD A Canadian’s solo trip to Norway pushes her to the limit

OVERTRAINING When going the distance means having gone too far

FIELD REPORT

[ GEAR]

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The Wheel Deal New mountain and road bikes to get your wheels spinning SPRING 2010 _ VOL. 2, NO. 1 _ www.adventuramag.ca

FREE

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The essence of the great outdoors.

Vehicle shown : 2010 Outback 3.6R

Get out more often with the 2010 Subaru Outback.

2010 Outback PZEV

$28,995

Cash purchase starting from ◊

Taxes, freight and preparation extra

Top Safety Pick†

Canada’s Best New Utility Vehicle Outback 2010

Best New Utility Vehicle of the Year Outback 2010

2010 Subaru Line-up

5-star crash-test rating†† 2010 Subaru Line-up

‡

2010 Subaru Line-up

JAPANESE AND A WHOLE LOT MORE! Quebec Subaru Dealers’ Association

| www.quebec.subarudealer.ca

◊ Manufacturer’s suggested retail price. Freight and preparation ($1,525.00), inspection, registration, insurance, consultation of the RDPRM and dealer fees as well as taxes are extra. † Top Safety Pick for all 2010 models, with the exception of the Impreza WRX STI. Rating of ˝Good˝ is the highest rating awarded for 40-mph (64 km/h) fr ont offset, 31-mph (49.8 km/h) side-impact and 20-mph (32 km/h) rear impact crash tests and in the roof strength test (rollover protection) conducted by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) (www.iihs.org).

A ˝Good˝ rating obtained in all four crash tests and the availability of the Electronic stability control (ESC) (Vehicle Dynamic Control) is necessary to achieve a ˝Top Safety Pick˝. †† U.S. Government star crash-test ratings are part of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration’s (NHTSA’s) New Car Assessment Program (www.safercar.gov). A five-star crash-test rating is the highest government rating for a) Driver and right front seating positions in frontal crash tests and b) Front and rear seating positions in side-impact crash tests. ‡ Based on ALG 2010 Canadian Residual Value Award, first place in Mainstream Brand category. Dealer may sell for less. Vehicle shown for illustration purposes only.

Contents // spring 2010 // Vol.2 :: No. 1

18

26

© Kerry Jarvis

12

[04] EDITOR’S NOTE [06] FIELD REPORT Adidas gets comfy with Stella McCartney’s biking shorts • Cyclist Emily Batty on her fave gear • Tips on taking a volunteer vacation • A pro look at hybrid cameras

[10] DAYTRIPPER Road cycling and hiking at Marguerite D’Youville • Rock climbing in Elora • Whitewater rafting in Paris • Aerial trekking in Val-des-Monts

[12] WEEKEND GETAWAY Call of Nature: Rediscovering MacGregor Point Provincial Park’s irresistible allure

[14] LIVING LARGE

[24] Agenda

Oka • London • Pelee Island

Spring activities and events to get you outdoors

[16] GLOBETROTTER Hurtig So Good: A Canadian’s solo trip to Norway pushes her to the limit

[26] POWER TRIP A Yucatan Mindfreak: Exploring Mexico’s magical underground maze, the Nohoch Nah Chich cenote system

[18] GEAR • The Wheel Deal: New mountain and road bikes to get your wheels spinning • Under Pressure: Compression clothing to optimize your workouts and recovery

[22] FEATURE

[28] MIND & BODY Energy Gels: How to get a quick energy boost when you’re on the run

[30] LAST CALL

Overtraining: When going the distance means having gone too far

The Climb: Cero el Roble

TM

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Nalgene® engineered Locks the HydraForm™ reservoir in place EVA film liner stays taste-free/odor-free Applies uniform pressure for improved flow “Crossed-modulus” construction process for extra strength Reduces water sloshing and “barreling” AquaGuard™ anti-microbial formula to prevent bacteria www.ospreypacks.com and mold BPA and PVC free Would like to get a free Hydraulics pack?

Visit ospreypacks.ca Adventura _ spring 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 3

EDITOR’S NOTE

The

NEW

CLIMATIK

MC

OUTDOOR

“JOY”of Suffering

IF THE SIMPLE ACT OF RETURNING ALIVE is the sign of a successful expedition, surviving weekly training is a task (nearly) as difficult to accomplish.

Jennifer Heil

Gold Medallist / Freestyle Skiing – Moguls

Take road biking. What drives our need for racing up a slope? Is it the satisfaction of conquering a gruelling ascent and our will to grow stronger?

Could it be the assurance of an exhilarating descent and the sensation of wind carrying away everyday problems?

But achieving such a goal requires both physical and mental engagement.

Mastering your mindset becomes as important as monitoring your heartbeat. The climb may be more arduous than we expected, but we push on despite the sweat pouring from our helmets, the burning in our thighs and the emptiness in our lungs as we inhale and exhale in rhythm with each pedal stroke.

You can reach the same point running, backcountry skiing or on an adventure trek. Whatever the sport, the final sensation is sublime (thanks to the endorphins), but pushing ourselves like this for too long without taking the time to rest can lead to exhaustion (see “Overtraining” on page 22).

To go higher, farther and faster, it isn’t enough to simply accept pain. You must love it.

Lance Armstrong, seven-time Tour de France champion, Training has many positive effects admitted upon his return to on the body and mind: Athletic the competition in 2009, “I people sleep better, eat properly become a happier man each and are less prone to illness or time I suffer.” Few events are injury. Their hearts are stronger as challenging as climbing a and beat slower, and their Source: Graphs of the recovery time for physical activities and sports, based on mountain on your bike. Ironiself-esteem is enhanced. With the Matveiev diagram (http://ww2.college-em.qc.ca/prof/csenecal). cally, this is precisely what the exception of Olympians, if drives us to it. Even without the pace becomes too intense, spectators, crossing the imaginary finish line is oddly satisfying. danger is inevitable. To avoid the worst, we must love to suffer, but Successfully taming the mountain offers a sense of revenge, within moderation. accomplishment and triumph over all that may have frustrated us during the day, the week or the year. Persevering when there are a Christian Lévesque, Editor million reasons to give up offers unparalleled joy.

Follow me on Twitter: @chrislevesque

ADVERTISING: DISTRIBUTION: Spring 2010 :: Vol. 2 :: No. 1

PUBLISHER: EDITOR:

FOR THOSE WHO LOVE THE GREAT OUTDOORS! Sun protection SPF 30 Prevents from dry and chapped lips Deeply moisturizes Discover Jennifer’s Heil blog on marcelle.com Available in pharmacies

SENIOR EDITOR:

Stéphane Corbeil (stephane.corbeil@adventuramag.ca) Christian Lévesque (christian.levesque@adventuramag.ca) Patricia Gajo (patricia.gajo@adventuramag.ca)

CONTRIBUTORS: Catherine Cardinal, Melanie Chambers, Nora Dunn, Steve Hainsworth, Mark Edward Harris, Kerry Jarvis, Alexander Joo, Ilona Kauremszky, Sarah Kelsey, Christine Laroche, Maureen Littlejohn, Denis Lord, Jean-Sébastien Massicotte, Andrew Mersmann, Catherine Naulleau, Doug Wallace PROOFREADER: Christopher Korchin TRANSLATORS: Christine Laroche and Tania-Brianne Peritz COVER PHOTO: Camper at Hauklandstranda beach in Lofoten. © Nils-Erik Bjørholt/Innovation Norway

DESIGN: Sève Création, seve.ca WEBSITE: www.adventuramag.ca EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT: 514-277-3477 / info@adventuramag.ca

Marie-Christine Hallé, Sales Consultant mc.halle@adventuramag.ca / 514-277-3477, ext. 27 Elyzabeth Bouchard, Production Coordinator elyzabeth.bouchard@adventuramag.ca / 514-277-3477, ext. 30

SUBSCRIPTION: info@adventuramag.ca / 514-277-3477, ext. 21 HOME DELIVERY RATES:

1 YEAR / 4 ISSUES: $18 • 2 YEARS / 8 ISSUES: $32 (taxes, handling and mailing costs included) Please make cheque payable to Groupe Espaces Inc and send to the address listed below.

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ADVENTURA is published four times a year by Groupe Espaces Inc.

ARTICLE SUBMISSIONS:

ADVENTURA welcomes editorial and photo submissions, which must be sent by e-mail only. Contact the Editor to discuss. ADVENTURA is not responsible for articles, photographs or any other material sent to its attention. If you do not keep a copy of ADVENTURA magazine for your personal archives, please give it to a friend or recycle it.The opinions expressed are those of the authors and are not necessarily shared

by Groupe Espaces Inc. Some of the activities reported on in ADVENTURA could entail injury risks for anyone engaging in them. ADVENTURA and its reporters, contributors, photographers and other staff members do not recommend the practice of these activities by anyone who does not have the required skills and technique. ADVENTURA is not responsible for the information contained in advertisements. Any reproduction of material published in ADVENTURA is prohibited without the expressed consent of Groupe Espaces Inc.

NEW

CLIMATIK

TM

OUTDOOR

Jennifer Heil

Gold medallist / Freestyle skiing – moguls

SUPERIOR HYDRATION & PROTECTION even when the temperature and action get intense!

Adapted to our Canadian climate Protect against climatic aggressions Water-resistant Sweatproof Discover Jennifer Heil’s blog on marcelle.com Available in pharmacies

MAR ann climatik eng v7.indd 1

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XR0 are super-light, super-fast-rolling, amazing in the dry, and I feel so confident while cornering.”

Bontrager XXX wheels | $2,000 | XR0 Tires | $60 | bontrager.com Bontrager has outdone itself with this feather-light, highperformance cross-country tubeless wonder, and for the tires, the 400-g Clinchers wield low-rolling resistance. A rad performer when it comes to steep grades, the XR0 offers maximum climbing traction and gives you all the reassurance you won’t encounter any unexpected gravity checks. “It’s true, nothing has more of an impact on your bike's performance than your wheels.

Bontrager XXX carbon wheels to me are a must-have! So fast and so light! The tires are more important than some may think.

Bontrager

Trek Top Fuel 9.9 SSL | $9,500 | trekbikes.com This eco-conscious cycling manufacturer uses renewable electric power at its Wisconsin plant and constantly raises the bar on the biker’s experience. It’s all about a smooth ride with this winner, considered the pinnacle of cross-country race bikes. Produced from USA-made OCLV carbon steel, it comes equipped with an out-of-this-world components package that’ll leave you speechless. Great for grinders. Says Emily, “Doesn’t get any better than this. Period.”

Bontrager RXL Mountain WSD shoes | $230 | bontrager.com Hardcore cross-country bike racers swear this lightweight shoe gives them the extra edge. Think silver-series carbon outsole perfect for transferring power to pedals. “These are the comfiest, lightest and stiffest pair of shoes I have ever worn.”

Oakley Enduring glasses, Breast Cancer Awareness Edition | $165 | oakley.com Let’s face it. There were no sports sunglasses before Oakley. Pros like Scott Tinley, Mark Allen and Lance Armstrong use the space-agey, performance-enhancing eye shields to deflect the most powerful sun glares. And it doesn’t hurt that the lightweight engineered frames just look so good. “I actually never wore glasses before I was introduced to these. To me, these are 100-percent quality and fashion!”

Fox 32 F80 RLC fork | $750 | foxracingshox.com This exceptionally engineered fork just keeps getting better. The F80 has thinner walls. The tubes are lighter and the fork crown is stiff and hollow, making it a dream to ride for those steep climbs. Riders love it because the fork has a quick-release on the wheel axles. “The most desirable cross-country fork ever! Besides, have you seen their new lockout?”

QUICK STATS _ First-place winner in the Under 23 MTB Pan American Games 2009 _ First overall winner in the Canada Cup Series 2007

WHAT’S NEXT _ World Cup Championships in California, Switzerland, Germany and Berlin _ 2010 Trek World Racing team _ 2012 Summer Olympics in London

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HYBRID PHOTOGRAPHY High-tech cameras that shoot both stills and video.

By Mark Edward Harris

The year 2009 was a revolutionary year for photography. The Nikon D90 was the first hybrid camera – meaning a still camera that can shoot video – at a quality high enough for professional applications. The greatest benefit of using these cameras (besides getting two types of media coverage from one piece of equipment) is that lenses made for still cameras can now be used to capture video. This means higher-quality optics and more control of apertures (the opening of the lens). You also get a sensor that’s larger than that of similar-priced video cameras. This means more control of depth of field (the area in focus). Here are three of the latest hybrid cameras to check out: Beginner Buy PENTAX K-x | $700 (comes with 18–55mm lens) | pentaxcanada.ca With its easy-to-use settings and large 2.7-inch LCD viewing screen, this 12.4-megapixel camera is the perfect entry-level option. It features sensor-shift Shake Reduction and Face Detection autofocus, which reduce the likelihood of your images looking like they were taken during an earthquake. You’ll also be able to record in widescreen HD (high-definition) video in 720p resolution at 24 FPS (frames per second) using any Pentax 35mm lens. Great for travel, this camera is compact and light with a rugged body design that allows for one-handed operation. Besides the standard black, it also comes in red, navy and white.

Parcs Québec

Prosumer Choices

Opt for Parc National d’Oka CANON EOS 7D | $1,850 (body only) | canon.ca This 18-megapixel D-SLR (digital single-lens reflex) camera can shoot superior 1080p, HD video (perfect for those largeformat television screens) at different speeds: 30, 25 or 24 FPS. Shooting at the latter speed dulls some of the image sharpness, resulting in the oft-desired “film look” rather than the ultra-sharp and everything-in-focus look of video usually obtained from a smaller-sensored camera. Mono sound can be recorded using the camera’s built-in microphone or you can enhance your audio to stereo sound by using an optional external mike.

NIKON D300s | $1,699 (body only) | nikon.ca Nikon devotees will be happy to know that this 12.3-megapixel model provides the full use of Nikon lenses shooting 720p HD video at 24 FPS. It also shows little noise (digital grain) at high ISO (camera sensitivity) settings, which range from 200 to 3200.

This means high-quality stills and video can be obtainable in low-light situations. Innovative Active D-Lighting technology tames high-contrast scenes (such as someone standing in front of a bright light) by increasing detail in bright and dark areas. Translation?

No more faceless silhouettes. Unless, of course, that’s the look you’re going for.

Four hiking trails L’Érablière and its spring flowers Grande Baie, headquarters for migrating birds • Calvaire d’Oka, unique Way of the Cross in America • La Sauvagine, four habitats worth exploring • •

Guided discovery hikes and rallies for one and all School groups and groups of all nature 1 800 665 6527 • parcsquebec.com

Adventura _ spring _ www.adventuramag.ca _7 Version 2010 1.indd 1

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MAKE YOUR NEXT VACATION

// VOLUNTOURISM //

MAKE A DIFFERENCE

By Andrew Mersmann

Š Steven Robertson

Service travel, or â&#x20AC;&#x153;voluntourism,â&#x20AC;? is growing in popularity by leaps and bounds. While vacationing you can spend some or all of your time saving animals, building homes, digging wells, assisting in schools and orphanages or engaging in any of a huge range of charitable activities. And you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need to be famous, rich or jobless to truly make a difference. You can add volunteering to any vacation plan, be it an afternoon, a day or your entire holiday. Here are some tips to get the most from your volunteerience:

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Andrew Mersmann is the author of Frommerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 500 Places Where You Can Make a Difference.

Visit his blog about volunteerism at changebydoing.com. //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

SHORT MULTI-DAY TRIPS STORY ! ! " " t fr ! "

Cycle in style (and comfort) in designer gear

By Christine Laroche

Magpie River Adventure - 8 Days ! $ ! ! & % & ! Wildern

West Magpie Expedition - 13 days preview the adventure

www.borealriver.com or call (866) 242-9383

When Brit designer extraordinaire Stella McCartney joined forces with iconic sport brand Adidas, she keyed into a market of alpha fashionistas who want to look as ďŹ erce working out as she does on a Friday night.

The new Adidas-McCartney hot pants, er, biker shorts have chic ruching and piping, as well as ďŹ&#x201A;atlock seams (goodbye, chaďŹ ng!), ClimaLite fabric (moisture, be gone!) and secret built-in padding for your tush to ensure that those longer rides are no pain in the butt.

We promise you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t look like youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re wearing Huggies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; far from it.

Adidas by Stella McCartney triathlon biker shorts | $130 | shopadidas.ca

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AL

ASANAS

I NE

// yoga //

ADRE N

© Luka Esenko

Stuck in the studio? Take your yoga practice to the next level by heading outdoors and adding some adventure.

By Christine Laroche

YOGA + PILATES + CANOE + HIKE What An invigorating adventure in a breathtaking wilderness setting Where Temagami, Ontario Price From $675 per person Includes Four nights shared lodging in a cabin, organic vegetarian meals, all instruction and use of amenities at Smoothwater Outfitters & Ecolodge.

Why try it If you’ve never tried meditating by a serene lake or doing downward dogs on the sand, you don’t know what you’re missing. Paddling trips by canoe and forest hikes also feed the soul.

Bonus activities include a cooking class using regional ingredients or a watercolour painting class.

YOGA + PILATES + CANOEING

SURF’S UP!

What An energizing day of Pilates and paddling

Why try it Shavasana has you a little bit too Zen? After an hour of dynamic Pilates combined with yoga-inspired stretching, you’ll head off for a two-hour guided canoe ride – including a small rapids course! – on the Assomption River. Namaste indeed!

Balance, agility and flexibility: three skills required for surfing and yoga, both of which you can learn to do at Costa Rica’s beachfront Latitude 10 resort. The “Surfing, yoga, meditation and massage” package is a five-night, six-day getaway that includes accommodation in a private junior suite, breakfast, a snack bar and daily yoga and surfing lessons (US$2,070). Hello, bliss!

For more canotvolant.ca | 450-883-8886

For more latitude10resort.com

Where Saint-Côme, Quebec When Varied schedule throughout the season Price $35, includes all equipment except the yoga mat

Ready for anything

When July 12 to 16 For more smoothwater.com | 1-888-569-4539

YOGA + CANOE + CAMPING What A three-day retreat to reconnect with nature and yourself Where Algonquin Park, Ontario When July 8 to 11, July 22 to 25 and Aug. 19 to 22 (women-only trip) Why try it There are hundreds of different ways to explore Ontario’s first provincial park, but none quite as relaxing as this one.

Sun salutations go literal with sunrise and sunset yoga sessions, and the rest of the days are spent paddling through the picturesque park.

How much $525, including one night canvas cabin accommodation (with dinner and breakfast) and three days, two nights of canoeing and camping (meals and equipment provided).

For more northernedgealgonquin.com | 1-800-953-3343

BASTA

YOGA + HIKING What An exhilarating hike to one of the Eastern Townships’ most scenic summits

ANTWERPEN

When Varied schedule throughout the season Price $12, excluding admission to the mountain Includes Hiking guide/yoga instructor Why try it For a great outdoors quickie: Mount Sutton is located about an hour outside of Montreal, making it a perfect day-trip destination for anyone living in or visiting the metropolis. Scale the mountain with your guide, taking yoga breather breaks all the way up. The perfect ending to a glorious day? A 45-minute mountaintop yoga session.

For more information and list of retailers: call Toll free 1 888 411-3310 or visit

www.allrounder.com

For more yogasublime.ca | montsutton.com Adventura _ spring 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 9

DAYTRIPPER OTTAWA

9B?C8 J>; JH;;I ?D L7B#:;I#CEDJI ACTIVITY: AERIAL TREKKING

By Nora Dunn

TPlay among the vast treetops of the Laurentian forest at LaďŹ&#x201A;èche Adventure Park, half an hour from Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital city. Navigate the high ropes course, suspension bridges and nets by walking, hopping, balancing and swinging over the ground below, and enjoy the wind in your hair on the connecting zip lines that extend up to 260 metres long and 47 metres high.

Season: Year-round Getting there: From Ottawa, take the King Edward to the MacDonaldCartier Bridge. Exit at Hwy.. 50 (toward Gatineau-Montreal), then take the ďŹ rst exit, 138, atSt. Louis Blvd. Turn right toward 307 North.

Continue for 24 km and look for a large sign on your left.

Cost: Adventure Park admission is $33 per adult.

Gear: Wear closed-toe shoes and tie up long hair. All other equipment is provided.

Other activities: Caving, hiking and snowshoeing (in winter).

Tip: Minimum height for the Adventure and Summit Parks is 152 cm (5 ft) and 121 cm (4 ft) for the Kids Park.

For more: aventurelaďŹ&#x201A;eche.ca

Š Dominic Gendron

Š Parc aerien Aventure

Choose from the Adventure Aerial Park (3.5-hour course) and the Summit Aerial Park (four-hour course), which boasts extreme zip lines, bridges and a special rock obstacle. Night tours are also available from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m. for groups of 10 or more. But thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not all: Make a day of it at LaďŹ&#x201A;èche and take their cave tour, a one-hour excursion into the Canadian Shieldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest visited cave, dating back 20,000 years. You will learn about delicate cave ecosystems and admire the gorgeous formations inside. Bring a picnic and enjoy the scenery, or go hiking or snowshoeing on the well-marked trails. Reservations are required.

Level: Advanced beginner to intermediate

MONTREAL

JH;A J>; 9EKDJHOI?:; ?D C7H=K;H?J; :Ă&#x160;OEKL?BB; ACTIVITY: ROAD CYCLING AND HIKING

By MĂŠlissa Vaillancourt

TWant to get out of the city for a lakeside picnic? Get on your bike and head to Saint-Bernard Island, located at the mouth of the Châteauguay River. In the Montreal archipelago, very few natural environments are as well-protected as the Marguerite Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Youville Wildlife Refuge. Just 30 km outside the city, this unspoiled piece of the country is home to many rare ďŹ&#x201A;ora and fauna, including 11 at-risk ďŹ&#x201A;oral species and 214 species of birds â&#x20AC;&#x201C; youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll deďŹ nitely want to bring your binoculars along!

The small network of walking trails will ďŹ rst lead you through a vast ďŹ eld and then into a forest of occidental nettle trees where picnic tables and a small

beach just might spur you to take a ďŹ rst break. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll then continue through a forest of bicolour oak trees, surrounded in marshes. From there, you can take a few minutes to observe the fauna along the seawall: Some bird species you might spot include the tufted titmouse, the least bittern, the great egret, the kingďŹ sher, the great heron and the scarlet tanager. Then, make your way to the north end of the island where a large sandy beach bordered with tall grass invites you to soak in the scenery. An observatory gives an incredible view of the south side of the metropolis.

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Level: Intermediate to advanced Season: The park is open year-round Getting there: There are two ways to get there by bike.

First, you can pedal to the Lachine marina (via the Lachine Canal bicycle path) and hop onto the ferry. This route allows you to enjoy one of the most beautiful bike paths in Montreal and a boat ride on the gorgeous Lake Saint-Louis.

(Between June 20 and September 7, every weekend starting at 8:45 a.m., four times per day; navark.ca/navette.htm.) The second option â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for more audacious cyclists â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is to bike across the Mercier Bridge. Once on the other side, turn right onto Saint-Isidore Road, which leads to the Kahnawake Reserve, and turn left on Old Châteauguay Road. About 10 km later, turn right on Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Youville Boulevard and the refuge is just ahead.

Cost: 'SFF FOUSBODF Ĺ&#x201D; -BDIJOF $IÂ&#x17E;UFBVHVBZ GFSSZ FBDI XBZ Ĺ&#x201D; GPS DIJMESFO VOEFS ZFBST PG BHF Gear: A bike to get there and good walking shoes.

For more: Ĺ&#x201D; IFSJUBHFTUCFSOBSE RD DB

TORONTO

Making waves on the Nith and Grand Rivers Activity: Whitewater rafting

By Maureen Littlejohn

_Suit up for a splash. An hour west of Toronto, near the hamlet of Paris, Ontario, is some of the frothiest whitewater rafting in southern Ontario. Between March and May, the spring melt swells the Nith to bouncy proportions, making for a foamy ride as it rushes to meet the wider Grand River.

Level: Easy to moderate

Urban adventures

Other activities: Biking on the Grand River Rail Trail Season: Spring, end of March until the end of May Getting there: From Toronto, Paris is one hour west, a 10-minute drive north off highway 403, halfway between Toronto and London.

Grand River Rafting Company, owned by ex-forester Garth Pottruss, offers three- to five-hour guided trips for six people per raft. After meeting your guide at a designated spot in Paris (the company doesn’t have a storefront), the group is shuttled to a start point in Canning on the Nith River, about 19 km away. At first it’s an easy paddle alongside high clay bluffs treed with Carolinian forest.

The river is narrow here, and if you’re lucky you might pass deer, fox, beaver or wild turkey. Quench your thirst with ice-cold water straight from the spring at Devil’s Cave along the route. Depending on the level of the volume of spring flows, the waves waver from easy to moderate class I-III. The final 3 km almost always guarantees a bracing spray. The trip includes a lunch (provided for $14 extra or bring your own) and bathroom break and winds up in Bean Park, on the Grand River in Paris.

Cost: $275 for a group of six. Includes guide, paddle, lifejacket, drinking water and self-bailing rafts.

Gear: Bring splash pants that dry fast and waterproof footwear.

Tip: Occasionally after a heavy rainfall there is whitewater rafting in the summer, as well. The Grand River Rafting Company’s River Rat Club monitors water levels and lets members know 24 hours in advance if a group can go out the next day. It’s free to join the club and around $50 (cost varies slightly depending on number in group) for a four-hour outing.

For more: grandriverrafting.ca • 1-866-286-7722

Soar to new heights in Elora Activity: Rappelling and zip-lining

Great outdoor adventures

By Sarah Kelsey

_There’s a surprising secret that awaits daredevils in Elora, a small-sized town about 90 minutes west of Toronto: It’s one of the best places to learn about – and experience – rappelling and zip-lining in southwestern Ontario. The reason? Elora Gorge. The natural wonder is home to 25-metre-high limestone cliffs that descend into two majestic rivers (the Grand and Irvine).

Lessons: Leadership and instruction in rappelling and zip-lining is provided and included in the package price.

Other: The program goes rain or shine, and will only be cancelled if weather conditions are dangerous. Courses run from Monday to Saturday. Meeting time is 10 a.m. at Victoria Park in Elora Gorge and the course goes until 4 p.m. Plan to arrive 10 minutes early.

It’s these cliffs you’ll zip and whip around with the help of ONE AXE Pursuits, an adventure tourism company from Guelph. Their one-day program highlights the best this natural wonder has to offer, which besides rappelling and zip-lining includes hiking and checking out the area’s waterfalls.

Tip: Specialized packages are available for groups of four people or more.

For more: oneaxepursuits.com • 519-836-8628

A typical day begins at 10 a.m. with rappelling and equipment instruction and a basic rappel down a 20-metre-high cliff. The afternoon is all about zip-lining mid-air across the gorge to the riverbed (a distance of about 60 metres) and rappelling more advanced cliffs (about 25 metres). Each person usually gets the chance to zip three to five times. The day wraps up at about 4 p.m., which leaves time to explore some of the unique and historic towns near the gorge, including Elora itself, Fergus and Erin, all of which have burgeoning artistic and Mennonite communities.

Escape to H2O Island on the Rouge River!

For a break from the daily grind that’s close to home and requires little to no planning, join us on our island oasis for an unforgettable adventure experience.

- White water and sea kayaking courses and outings (beginner and intermediate) - Camp on our private island with access to beach volleyball, hammacks and a sandy beach - Hike to the Seven Sisters waterfalls

Level: Beginner to advanced Other activities: In spring, summer and fall, you can also try rock climbing and caving. In winter, there’s climbing and mountaineering.

Come join us on our island paradise with all your friends, or come make new ones!

Season: The rappelling and zip-lining season extends from the spring through the fall (usually April to November).

Cost: $150 per person Gear: Wear sweat-wicking exercise gear or bring a rain jacket if it’s raining. Good hiking/running shoes are also important.

All technical gear (harnesses, helmets, etc.) is available on-site and is included in the package price.

For more information, please consult our extensive website or call us at: © ONE AXE Pursuits

Getting there: From downtown Toronto, take the Gardiner Expressway. Follow to Hwy. 427 and head north. Then head west on the 401. Follow Hwy. 6 North through Guelph. Turn left onto County Rd. 7 just north of Marden. In about 10 minutes you will stumble upon Elora, the home of the Gorge.

514-842-1306

www.aventuresh2o.com Adventura _ spring 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 11

WEEKEND GETAWAY

MacGregor Point Provincial Park has an irresistible natural allure that has one couple coming back year after year. By Kerry Jarvis

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The Good Getting close to nature and enjoying four-season recreational sports.

The Bad Watch where you hike and camp as there is lots of poison ivy. Remember: “Leaves of three, leave them be; Berries white, take flight!”

© Kerry Jarvis

The Weird First impressions of the park’s shoreline. The rocks, boulders and vegetation have you asking, “Where’s the beach?”

You soon get over this and appreciate its natural rugged beauty.

Shortly after saying our wedding vows, my wife Melitta and I made another long-term agreement. We promised to visit, explore, hike and discover as many different places in Canada and abroad as possible, with one caveat – visit once, but never return.

Our rationale was simple: There are just too many places to see. We have managed to keep our travel vows, with only one exception – MacGregor Point Provincial Park.

Nestled along the rugged shoreline of Lake Huron, MacGregor is one of the best-kept secrets in southern Ontario. Its natural beauty, open space, year-round camping and abundance of recreational opportunities make it the unsung hero of Ontario Parks. It was by accident that we stumbled upon this gem. We were looking for a place to camp, and as other nearby parks were full, we took a chance and stayed here on the advice of the Ontario Parks reservation staff. We knew that we had to be ready for the unexpected; what we didn’t plan on was coming back – every year for two decades.

How did this happen? Perhaps it’s because of the uncrowded highways, where there’s no fighting Toronto traffic. The scenery is calm and relaxing whenever we travel through rural farming communities like Arthur, Harriston, Minto, Clifford and Paisley. It’s also hard to resist the year-round facilities of 350 private and treed campsites in three campgrounds. On our first visit we camped in the Huron, a radiofree zone. This is an especially good place if you are looking for peace and solitude.

My wife and I love that no matter how often we hike the same trails, there is always something new to experience. Recently, we revisited a section of the park that we had explored numerous times. Halfway through we said to each other: “I don’t recall this trail, perhaps it is a new one.” This is part of the magic of MacGregor – the familiar is unfamiliar.

Returning to the park in different seasons and looking for wildlife surprises also makes MacGregor special. When hiking the Old Shore Road trail (a six-kilometre linear trail that traces the early pioneer roadways), we

always take little detours, exploring coves that dot the seven kilometres of park shoreline and rarely encounter other hikers on these jaunts. On one occasion we witnessed a large, portly porcupine waddle in front of us and hustle up a tree. The experience was priceless.

PLAN AHEAD

Maybe we keep returning because of the variety of activities. Besides camping and hiking, MacGregor is a natural playground for other outdoor adventures, such as biking or paddling in spring, summer and fall, and skating, skiing and snowshoeing in winter. Most bike trails are designated as multi-use. Our off-road mountain bikes are ideal, as many of the paths wind through bush and over rocky terrain, the remnants of the last glacier age. Once while winding along a trail we noticed another cyclist had stopped to look at a family of deer that were grazing in the woods. Again, amazing.

And then there’s the water. The park hugs the Lake Huron coastline and is home to marshes, ponds, bogs and fens that support a wide variety of plant life, mammals, birds and other critters. The nearby Saugeen River, a meandering body of water that stretches some 100 kilometres from Hanover to Southampton, is ideal for kayaking and canoeing. Those looking for a challenge can sea-kayak to Chantry Island (a small island visible from Southampton), or there are a number of day trips along the Saugeen River. On one of our more recent visits we took the most popular paddle trip, a four-hour journey from County Road 17 to Denny’s Dam. We had booked the 10:00 shuttle and enjoyed a leisurely meandering along the river with time for a lunch break. Afterward we took a quick swim at Southampton Beach and then returned to MacGregor for a feast around the campfire.

Sleep There is year-round camping, with 350 campsites and 12 yurts.

EAT Your best bet is to bring in your own food.

Alternatively, visit nearby Port Elgin and Southampton for grocery stores and restaurants.

PLAY Canoeing and Kayaking – Rent a canoe or kayak and arrange for a shuttle from Thorncrest Outfitters in Southampton, your one-stop shop for canoeing/kayaking and shuttle service. The enthusiastic staff can also suggest a number of different water excursions to suit all paddlers.

• thorncrestoutfitters.com • 1-888-345-2925 Hiking – With 10 trails and over 30 km, there is a lot to choose from. Trails range in distance from just under one km to seven km. Sturdy hiking boots are recommended for the four-km Lake Ridge trail.

Biking – With a few exceptions, on-trail biking is the norm. Park your car and ride your bike throughout the park and even into the towns of Port Elgin and Southampton with the newly completed 35-km loop rail trail. Visit saugeenrailtrail.com for a downloadable map.

That night as the sky darkened our campfire sparkled and glowed; Melitta and I fixated on the dancing flames, which when combined with the light show from the stars above put us in a reflective mood. We reminisced about our years of adventures at MacGregor Point, and a quote by Oscar Wilde came to mind. “Any place you love is the world to you.” A wide smile crossed my face as I realized that Melitta and I had found that place.

GETTING THERE From Toronto – Plan about 3.5 hrs to the park.

Take Hwy. 401 west to Hwy. 410 north. Get off at Bovaird Dr. Turn left (west) and then right (north) on Hwy. 10 to Owen Sound. At Owen Sound take Hwy. 21 west to 4th Concession Rd. Turn right and then left (west) on Bruce Rd. 33 to the park.

From Montreal – Budget eight to nine hours. Take 401 west to Toronto and then follow the directions from Toronto.

Kerry Jarvis is a world traveller, avid outdoor enthusiast, naturalist, presenter, author and photographer living in Ontario. Visit his site at kerryjarvis.com.

For more RR #1, 1593 Bruce Rd. 33, Port Elgin, Ontario • 1-888-868-7275 for reservations • ontarioparks.com • friendsofmacgregor.org

Adventura _ spring 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 13

© Michael Svoboda

© iStockphoto

© Sepaq, Parc national Oka, Jean-Pierre Huard

Living Large Spring brings fresh air and fresh ideas. After a cold (albeit active!) winter, set aside some time to reconnect with Mother Nature as she blossoms into summer – and choose to spend some quality time on your own or with a special someone. Here are three quick and easy destinations complete with custom game plans to restore your peace of mind and recharge your batteries.

POINT PELEE Hello Birdie

By Maureen Littlejohn

Point Pelee National Park, a warbler wonderland, is the best inland location on the continent to observe our feathered friends migrating northward in the spring. Located on the 42nd parallel on the shores of Lake Erie, the point is a four-hour drive southwest of Toronto. Birders and non-birders enjoy the park’s biking, hiking, canoeing, kayaking and swimming, and it is less than a 10-minute drive south from Leamington, Canada’s tomato-growing capital.

While in the area, you can also take a 1½-hour ferry from Leamington or Kingsville ($7.50 one-way/adult and $16.50/car, excluding driver • pelee.com) to Pelee Island, Canada’s most southerly community, with beaches, bike trails and two nature reserves.

R&R Nautically themed Seacliffe Inn (rooms from $119 • 519-324-9266 • seacliffeinn.com) on Leamington’s Erie Street South has 23 cozy guest rooms with fireplaces, some with a view of Lake Erie. Originally a sailor’s haunt called the Dew Drop Inn, the storied hotel had extensive renovations 10 years ago when it reopened as a luxury retreat. The most recent update is the addition of The Spa at Seacliffe Inn, featuring a menu of treatments to hydrate skin and soothe sore muscles. After a day of paddling or hiking, a Swedish massage ($65/60 min.) will knead you back into fighting form.

Eat Seacliffe’s restaurant (mains from $12) has an outdoor patio where you can watch the busy waterfront while digging into a delicious plate of fresh, panfried perch. Other rib-sticking fare includes sizzling steaks and roast chicken.

The atmosphere is warm and woody, carvings of sailors and pirates keep

guests company and a special treat is the selection of wines from Pelee Island.

For a burger bonanza, go to Gilligan’s (mains from $10 • 519-322-0032).

Thick, juicy favourites include the cheddar bacon mushroom melt or the tasty “original” with special Gilligan’s sauce. Feeling wild? Try an ostrich, buffalo or elk patty. T-Rex appetites will appreciate the four-pound burger ($35).

Clean the plate and a free T-shirt is yours.

Play

OKA Glamping Getaway

/ BIKING – The 4-km Centennial Bike and Hike Trail in Point Pelee National Park ($7.80/person or $19.60/family • 519-322-2365 • pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ on/pelee/index.aspx) undulates south from the Marsh Boardwalk to the Visitor Centre. Rentals are available from the Cattail Café ($10/hour or $15/half-day • 519-326-6173 • friendsofpointpelee.com) at the Marsh boardwalk starting May 1 through to Thanksgiving weekend. On Pelee Island (519-724-293 • pelee.org) there are 34 km of bike trails, and a variety of rentals, including trailers and tandems, can be picked up at Comfortech Bike (from $20/day or $8/hour • 519-724-2828). / CANOEING AND KAYAKING – A paddler’s paradise, two-thirds of Point Pelee National Park comprises freshwater marshes. The total area is 800 times bigger than a football field. Rent canoes at the Cattail Café (from $12/hour to $36/four hours) or kayaks from Pelee Wings Nature Store in Leamington (call for rates, 519-326-5193). / HIKING – There are more than 15 km of trails in the park including the 2.75-km Woodland Nature Trail with cedar savannah, dry land and swamp forest, the 4-km Chinquapin Oak Trail, which features a species of oak that grows as far south as Mexico, and the 1.2-km DeLaurier House and Trail, with heritage buildings and an observation tower. On Pelee Island there are 10 km of ecological multi-use trails and 5 km of walking trails.

14 _ ADVENTURA _ SPRING 2010 _

/ SWIMMING – The park’s 20 km of sandy shores include popular Northwest Beach and West Beach, with washrooms, change rooms and picnic facilities.

Local health officials test water weekly during swimming season. Call the Beach Hotline (519-258-2146 ext. 426) for updates.

www.adventuramag.ca

By Patricia Gajo

Nestled between a lake and a mountain, Parc National d’Oka is less than an hour northwest of Montreal (entrance fee $3.50/adult from May to Oct. • 450-479-8365 • parcsquebec.com). If coming from Toronto or Ottawa, it’s a nice drive along the Trans-Canada Highway with a scenic ferry ride from Hudson across Lake of Two Mountains, whose name refers to the two highest peaks of Mont Oka. While many may recall the Oka crisis during the summer of 1990 between the native peoples and the Quebec police (and eventually the Canadian Army), the area today is better known as a nature hideout and virtual playground, especially for Montreal folk seeking escape from city woes.

R&R While camping admittedly is not for everyone, even diehard urbanites find refuge in the new glamping trend (“glamour” plus “camping”), otherwise known as Huttopia. As one glamper noted, “It’s all the best parts of being outdoors – without all the work.” Parcs Québec (from $109/night • sepaq.com) offers deluxe tents big enough for two couples. These wooden frames lined with canvas feature two beds, a small kitchen prep area (no sink), a fridge and an indoor dining room complete with all the plates, glasses, pans and utensils you may need. And pssst, there’s a “comfort station” nearby with toilets that flush and hot-water showers. Reserve now as spots are limited (20 in total) and in high demand.

LONDON 'PSFTU $JUZ

By Steve Hainsworth

Nicknamed the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Forest City,â&#x20AC;? Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spruced spaces offer endless adventures. Timbered trails snake throughout the city, while the historic Thames River ďŹ&#x201A;ows across it. Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s large university and college crowds keep the cycling scene, the hiking herds and the paddling populations active.

R&R

To really get the grime off, a full day at Fayez Spa (His (ERS 0ACKAGE s s FAYEZSPA COM) is the ultimate mind, soul and body cleanse. The awardwinning spa will have you looking and feeling like you just stepped out of a salon, not tumbled from the trailhead, with its Ă la carte or package options.

/ HIKING â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Most Londoners are introduced to the Sifton Botanical Bog /XFORD 3T WEST OF (YDE 0ARK 2D on some stuffy school ďŹ eld trip. Truth is, this uniquely arctic area is one of southern Ontarioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most interesting places.

Created by the receding glaciers over 13,000 years ago, this normally northern-found bog sports sundew and cranberry plants. Migrating tundra swans stop-over in its familiar waters. A 300-m boardwalk plus 2.5 km of easy trails traverse the bog. / PADDLING - London and its Thames River were named by Lieutenant-Governor John Graves Simcoe, who envisioned the area as Upper Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new capital city. Those plans fell through, but the Loyalist names stuck. These days, the London Canoe Club (LONDONCANOECLUB CA) rules the rapids of the Thames River. The clubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s boatshed on Wonderland Rd. is a great place to plumb your paddling potential and also a great launch pad from which to tour the Thames.

Eat (MBNQJOH UFOU BU 1BSD /BUJPOBM EÂľ0LB

Eat

On the front porch (yes, a porch!) of your ďŹ ve-star tent, which by the way overlooks your private ďŹ repit, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a mini-stove where you can cook using the groceries you bought at the nearby grocery mart. Those less inclined to roll up their sleeves can mosey on over to Le Littoral Visitors Centre along Oka Beach, where thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a selection of culinary options including a snack bar, ice-cream stand and a casual bistro with a sun-friendly terrace overlooking the water.

Play / BEACH VOLLEYBALL â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Huttopia campsite is located in Les Dunes, a short walk to the sandy beach. Join in a beach volleyball game, or start your own (a net can be rented for $5/hour), then take a dip in the water to cool off. During season (generally June to Sept.) thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lifeguard on duty.

/ WATERSPORTS â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Toward the westernmost part of the beach, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a rental house for several types of water activities (open from mid-May to mid-Sept.), such as canoeing (from $14/hour), kayaking (from $12/hour for a single, $15/hour for a double), pedal boating (from $14/hour), and windsurďŹ ng ($17/hour). / BIKING â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Take your wheels â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or rent them there (from $11/hour) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and hit the parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 7.5-km La Vagabonde trail, or, toward the north, the 6.5-km trail toward Le Sommet. / HIKING â&#x20AC;&#x201C; For the best view of the land and lake, take the 4.5-km-long nature-winding Calvaire dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oka trail (for beginner and intermediate levels), where you can follow the Stations of the Cross left by the Sulpicians, then have a quiet picnic near the three historic chapels dating back to 1742. On a clear day you can view the Adirondacks in the distance. More experienced hikers can opt for the 12-km La Sauvagine trail.

If it were easier to ďŹ nd, Spageddy Eddyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (mains from s ) would be a London landmark.

Hidden within a downtown alley near Richmond and Dundas, this little underground eatery is, however, worth the search. Inside youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll ďŹ nd cozy booths, creative decor, wooden-beam framing and huge custom pasta portions.

In Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Art Gallery, diners at the On the Fork Restaurant (MAINS FROM s ONTHEFORK COM) overlook the junction of the North and South Thames Rivers. On the Fork feeds aďŹ cionados value-priced, white-tablecloth quality cuisine. Daily, they create an artful lunch and dinner menu. On weekends, the $55 ďŹ ve-course Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Special is a masterpiece.

Play / MOUNTAIN BIKING â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Following the shores of Fanshawe Lake (&ANSHAWE #ONSERVATION !REA s CYCLIST s KIDS s ), the 20-km Fanshawe Loop Trail navigates through Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wildest wetlands. A leisurely loop of the lake takes just over an hour. Note: To keep this popular singletrack safe, all riders must ride the loop

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Š Fayez Spa

Š Tente Huttopia, Parc de Frontenac

Located in beautiful Old North London, the Ambleside Inn B&B (rOOMS FROM s s AMBLESIDEINN COM) has an intimate total of just three guestrooms. With cozy beds, delicious entrĂŠes and private bathrooms, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the perfect place to relax, refuel and re-shower between adventures.

clockwise on even-numbered days and counter-clockwise on odd-numbered days. A map is available at the park entrance.

GLOBETROTTER

One in five Norwegians consider trekking and outdoor activities to be their main hobbies. A solo trip to Norway for one Canadian confirms that fact – and then some.

© Terje Rakke/Nordic Life AS/Innovation Norway

By Melanie Chambers

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There’s a word in Norwegian, hurtig, and it means “energetic and outdoorsy.” “This describes most Norwegians,” Anna, a

Swedish traveller whom I met on the road told me. I always travel alone, but I love meeting likeminded travellers who want to test their boundaries, whether it’s hiking a new mountain or in this case, camping alone in a foreign country.

Initially, I came to Norway to visit my new friend, Bjornar, whom I had met on a group ride in Italy.

(When snow, fog and sleet prevented the rest of the riders from attempting Sardinia’s highest peak, Bjornar rode while the rest of us waited in the truck.) At 62, with white blond hair and an imposing 6'3" stance, Bjornar is the epitome of hurtig – and he had plans for testing my limits.

Camping was my other impetus. Allemannsrett or “freedom to roam” is a 1,000-year-old law in Norway that means no coastline or uncultivated land, private or not, is off limits. You can even camp in someone’s backyard – if you ask. I had tackled many firsts on my travels, such as hiking Mount Kinabalu in Malaysia (Southeast Asia’s highest peak), but the idea of sleeping near the ocean, or anywhere I wanted, appealed to my voyeurism.

On day one, Bjornar and I decided to bike our way up to the base of Snohetta, the 2,286-metre snow-covered mountain that dominates the Dovrefjell National Park. The country’s largest protected area – over 4,000 square kilometres – it’s also home to packs of reindeer and prehistoric beasts called muskox. Once we reached the midway point, Bjornar threw up his hand. “STOP! Be still,” he warned. “Muskox kill.” I was frozen by fear and awe. A few metres off the side of the road, a family of muskox was feeding. This white-tusked leftover from the last ice age is only found in two other places in the world. Thankfully, they didn’t look our way.

After stopping at a stream to refill our water bottles, we reached the base of Snohetta and Bjornar wanted to hike. (Hadn’t we just finished 60 kilometres of riding?) My jet lag and hunger were setting in. As I looked up and squinted into the sun, my superhuman friend smacked his fist into his palm. “What is the problem?” he teased.

I’m not Norwegian, I thought to myself. That was the problem.

When I eventually parted ways with Bjornar, I was happy to start my solo adventure. I boarded the famous hurtigruten ferry that zips up and down the 1,700-kilometre coastline; it takes 15 hours to reach the Lofoten Islands, just past the Arctic Circle. This is when I met Anna, who was travelling with her boyfriend. I was thankful for the companionship, at least for the first night. She’d been here before and introduced me to camping nirvana.

We went to Slovær, the main port of the Lofotens. The islands – hundreds of them – are some of the oldest rock in the world. I followed Anna over a bridge and then past a stretch of rorbur, former fish houses on stilts in the harbour. Our little island jutted out into the water like a peninsula. Straight ahead was the ocean. Behind me was a wall of mountains.

It was silent and eerie. There was a bunch of German war bunkers built into some of the rocks. I’m not a ghost believer, but there was a palpable presence here. Setting up my tent, I could see the tip of a 15-metre wooden rack for drying codfish. It looked like a giant A-frame house – without the walls. That night, when darkness finally arrived, I saw the comforting lights of the hurtigruten disappear through the islands, but I couldn’t shake that haunted feeling. To relax, I popped in my headphones and listened to Sarah McLachlan, hoping her familiar voice would lull me to sleep.

The next day I rented a mountain bike and rode from village to village. I came across a native Sami woman fishing who, raising a giant fish over her head, yelled “Supper!” Fish was currency here at one time – a couple of cod from your day’s catch got you a room for the night. After I stopped to dunk my sweaty head into the ocean on a deserted beach, I kept riding – through a tunnel in the mountain, then over more bridges until I reached the fishing village Henningsvær. Like the last bead on a necklace, this fishing village was the end of the line. It was here that I tasted my

The Good The fish. With 19 of its 21 counties on the ocean, Norway, or “Little Newfoundland” as locals call it, is fish mecca. You’ll find salmon, cod, herring or whatever your heart desires – smoked, pickled or salted.

The Bad Rain and unpredictable weather – there’s a reason why everyone wears high-end rain gear; the weather can turn nasty at a moment’s notice.

The Bizarre Whale burgers – they still hunt whales here. Find the burgers, and real seal skins, in touristy areas such as Bergen’s fish market on the wharf. first Norwegian cod – fried cod tongues and salted cod chowder in a tomato broth. After half a pint of beer and a full belly, I didn’t want to move. I drank a strong coffee to get energized for the ride back.

That night I was on my own, as Anna and her boyfriend had left. When the winds began to throw my tent around, I could hear the waves crash on the rocks and contemplated a hotel. But I changed my mind after realizing it probably wasn’t the hurtig thing to do.

In a sleep-deprived haze, I forced myself to hike the next day. I was eager to see the islands and my campsite from above. On the mountains behind my tent, I could barely see two parallel rocks on top of a jagged peak. If I squinted I could see a gap between them. After I took a shower at the local hostel, the receptionist asked me: “Are you doing the goat?”

“Pardon?” Svolværgeita – Slovær goat – it was explained to me, is the name of the mountain, and “doing the goat” refers to jumping from one rock to the other. I contemplated it for a moment – until she showed me a YouTube video on her laptop: twentysomethings jumping from one rock the size of a placemat onto another, hovering hundreds of metres in the air. The jumpers reminded me of the guys in the movie Jackass. No, thank you.

Instead, I climbed just west of “the goat” through a forest that led to a rock face. It was steeper than climbing a set of attic stairs. Sheep stopped on a ledge to check me out. “This is our mountain,” they seemed to be saying. I crossed paths with a German couple heading down. “The weather, bad,” the man said, pointing to the grey mass heading behind me. So I turned and walked back down. I rationalized: To continue hiking and face a potential storm was about as smart as “doing the goat.” I may not be as hurtig as my friend or the rest of Norway, but I prefer to explore the world with two feet planted firmly on the ground. That was hurtig enough for me.

For more • visitnorway.com The official tourism site of Norway.

• bestnorwegian.com A great site for history as well as travel information and links.

Melanie Chambers is a freelance writer who specializes in cycling and travel.

She also teaches travel and food writing at the University of Western Ontario.

PLAN AHEAD Getting there Air Canada has connecting flights, first to London, England, then on to Oslo.

From Oslo, you can fly to northern locales such as the Lofotens on Norway Air or, if time isn’t an issue, the Hurtigruten ferry is the best way to see the coast. (norwegian.com • aircanada.com • hurtigruten.no) Where to stay • Den Norske Turistforening (turistforeningen.no) If you plan on doing lots of hiking throughout the country, this organization has over 440 mountain huts set up for hikers.

• Cochs Pensjonat (Oslo • 23 33 24 00 • cochspensjonat.no) Once a guesthouse for bachelors, this place has all you could need: Åpent Bakery in the basement serves a breakfast roll called røre syltetøy that comes smothered with homemade jam. There is a bar across the street, and it’s a stone’s throw from the Royal Palace in the nearby Slottsparken.

• Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park (dovrefjellradet.no) From Oslo, take a train to Hjerkinn in central Norway to the campsite that has it all: tent sites, trailer hookups or traditional grass-roofed huts. There are no

restaurants close by, so either bring food to barbecue or eat at the campsite’s restaurant, which serves a mean fish and potatoes.

Where to eat Fish reigns supreme on the Lofotens – at one time there were over 30,000 fishermen; today it’s down to 2,000, but the variety of fish is still amazing. Located in an old fish warehouse, this restaurant serves a dish called the Best of the Lofoten: fried cod tongues, baby potatoes, fish stew with tomatoes and salted cod.

• Fiskerogen (Henningsaer • 76 07 46 52 • fiskekrogen.net) Bohemian meets Norwegian at this funky Bob Marley-playing restaurant.

• Bacalao Located on the Slovær wharf overlooking the water, the patio is a great people-watching spot.

What to do Tours of fjords can take you on hourly or multiple-day trips through these amazing glacier-ice cutouts. (fjord-tours.com)

Adventura _ spring 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 17

GEAR n it comes of choice whe ts lo e v a h ts is er for Cycl w ride. Wheth e n a g n si o o bikes time to ch g, here are six in cl cy in ta n u ep road or mo facturers to ke u n a m n ia d a made by Can inning. your wheels sp

n Massicotte

By Jean-Sébastie

ROAD BIKES Leader of the pack The Galium Pro – the star of the Argon 18 lineup – can’t help but draw attention. Designed for pros (it’s the official bike of the Planet Energy Pro Cycling team, led by ex-yellow jacket wearer Steve Bauer), Argon 18’s 100% carbon frame weighs in at less than a kilo and boasts several unique, innovative features. After analysis of the loadings and stresses subjected to each section of the frame, Argon 18 developed the Carbone 6600 HM Nano-Tech, whose unique composition was studied to give Galium Pro all of its personality. The assembling of HM fibres is thus ideal to reign in the rigours of the competition, according to the volume of tubes. The end product is a bike that is predicable at low speeds, but in a race situation the amazing rigidity kicks in and goes into high gear. Another innovation: The Direction 3D is an ingenious system of machined casings that is an extension of the headtube, to simplify positioning without modifying the qualities of the frame.

Available in six sizes according to the Argon Fit System geometry, the Galium Pro can fit the smallest (1.45 metres) to the tallest (2.10 metres) of cyclists. For serious competitors, the Galium Pro is offered with most performance groups on the market. Upon request, the Montreal-based maker offers an à la carte option for those who won’t settle for anything but the best. A version of the frame is even specially adapted for the Dura-Ace Di2 electronic group (complete bike is $10,750 with Zipp 404/808 wheels).

ARGON 18 Galium Pro | from $4,650 (Ultegra 6700, Mavic Aksium wheels) | argon18bike.com Economy speed Have you been in a toss-up between performance and budget? Refined over recent seasons, Louis Garneau’s Axis series is an attractive option for those with monetary limits. The Axis 4.0 has an alloy frame rigid enough for speed bursts yet generous enough to absorb the road’s imperfections. A Synergy carbon and aluminum fork is the solution for added comfort and vibration reduction. For less than $1,800, the Axis 4.0 is built with Shimano 105 components and an Ultegra back derailleur. Taiwanese manufacturer Maddux outfits the Axis 4.0 with an Aero F20 wheelset with 24 to 28 spokes (front/back).

Far from being a carbon copy of the men’s bike, the Axis for women is a veritably re-engineered frame. Louis Garneau’s Route Performance geometry is adapted to a woman’s morphology for a better aerodynamic position, ultimate comfort and optimal roadholding. Both the men’s and women’s models have a compact UNO handlebar, especially well-suited to less flexible riders and longer sessions.

LOUIS GARNEAU Axis 4.0 (for men and women) | $1,775 | louisgarneau.com

PUB_

Multiple personality Don’t assume that Mountain Equipment Coop’s (MEC) all-new Côte suffers from an identity crisis.

In tune with the philosophy of the Canadian giant of outdoor equipment, the Côte truly owns its multiple personalities, making it an awesome all-purpose bike. Don’t let its knobby tires fool you: This bike can handle almost anything, from the road to trails. Looking to pump up the energy?

Replace the 34mm cyclocross tires for a smoother, narrower model to give the bike some vigour.

Without becoming a speed demon on the road, the bike will meet the challenge. Focused on comfort, the geometry of the 7005 aluminum frame allows for a more upright position. With a more aggressive position, it is possible to draw out the sporty side of the model from the all-new MEC bike range.

But no matter which way you go, the Shimano Tiagra components are up for the challenge. If need be, the Côte can be outfitted with a rack thanks to threaded fittings integrated onto the frame and fork. Weighing in at 10.9 kilos, it’s no lightweight compared to its purely road counterparts, but considering everything it can do, who would dare complain?

MEC Côte | $1,350 | mec.ca

MOUNTAIN BIKES

Trailblazer While Opus is getting ready to celebrate its 10th anniversary, the Quebec maker is gifting fans of the brand by adding new bikes to its lineup. Of the lot, the Clutch 2 is hard to miss with its bold burnt-orange colour. Dedicated to mountain bikers who want to do everything in style, the Clutch 2 is a typical all-mountain bike with a double suspension, and its 7005-T6 aluminum frame’s geometry is somewhere between a cross-country and downhill frame. Without being a rocket when it comes time to defy gravity, the Clutch is docile enough during climbs to make them enjoyable.

And once at the peak, the descent can begin with confidence with the rigid hydroformed frame and virtual-pivot rear suspension, which assures uniform tension on the chain. The components are an amalgamation of pieces conceived to perform, without making its price tag skyrocket. The component kit is SRAM X.7 and X.9, the hydraulic disc breaks are by Hayes (Stroker Trail), while the adjustable front suspension is by Fox Racing (32 Float 150R) with Mavic rims (XM317).

OPUS Clutch 2 | $2,850 | opusbike.com

Thrill-seeker People from the Saguenay region know how to have fun – something that is especially obvious when you take a look at the Hectik 2 from Devinci, a Chicoutimi-based maker. Part freeride and part all-mountain bike, the Hectik 2 boasts a versatile – not to mention fun! – frame. It is at ease on a climb and shines during the descent, no matter how vertiginous. Boasting a double suspension and a clearance of up to 160mm at the front, thanks to an adjustable Fox 36 Talas RC2 fork, the biggest obstacles are no match for the Hectik 2. Redesigned for 2010, the Hectik’s 6061-T6 aluminum frame is more rigid and offers precise manoeuvring thanks to a tapered headset. For those who like a rough ride, the use of a chain guide is possible with a replaceable ISGC support and its derailleurs from the SRAM X.9 and X.7 series (rear and front, respectively). To stop this beast on the trails, Devinci calls on Avid Elixir hydraulic disc breaks. These work in concert with robust wheels geared up with Enduro Mavic EN321 rims and DT Swiss 340 rear hubs. Another nice detail: Crank Brothers’ Candy pedals, which offer stability and irreproachable ease of use, even in the mud.

DEVINCI Hectik 2 | $4,000 | devinci.com

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Photo : Gaétan Fontaine

PUB_GT-Adventura-2010:Layout 1 22/03/10 1:45 PM Page 1

Simple fun At first glance, the simplicity of Norco’s Judan Belt can be misleading: This mountain bike destined to ride narrow trails hides behind the retro look of its Reynolds 525 Chromoly frame a super-fun character. It’s a bike that will most definitely please cyclists looking to spice up their adventures in the woods. What sets the Judan apart is its belt-drive transmission, not chain. After cars and motorcycles, Gates is now propelling bikes with Carbon Belt Drive and its front sprocket and rear cog. The results are a more quiet, lightweight, clean and durable mechanics. The Judan Belt thus has a single speed on a development of 48x28 (the equivalent of 32x20 for a chain bike). Fans of single-speeds will discover with some surprise a mountain bike able to shine on almost any terrain. The 29-inch wheels are also great for giving the impression of being able to surmount any obstacle. The secret? The 29-inch angle of attack being smaller, the ride is softer on rocky terrain. Taller riders will find happiness in this format. A Manitou Minute fork with a 100mm clearance, Avid Elixir 5 hydraulic discs and WTB SpeedDisk Am complete the ensemble. Like other “29ers” starting to take their place in the market, the Judan Belt is worth getting to know, despite its marginal side.

NORCO Judan Belt | $2,125 | norco.com

GEAR

UNDER PRESSURE High-tech fabrics don’t just wick away moisture or protect you from UV rays anymore. Today’s sport clothing strategically incorporates compression fabrics to help you most when you’re pressed for results.

By Denis Lord

Tony Stark (played by Robert Downey Jr.) slips into his Iron Man costume and, all of a sudden, he has superpowers: He’s stronger, faster and quasi-indestructible. If you’ve ever dreamed of transformational clothing like this, you may be surprised to know that it already exists – not the superhero kind, but in the form of compression clothing. Don’t you remember the famous Speedo LZR Racer suit worn by swimmers in 2008 that procured 35 world records at the World Championships?

Fortunately, such clothing is not limited to pro athletes.

The trend is now spreading into the amateur world of recreational sport – with some great promises to boot, such as better performance and shorter recovery time. No matter what the brand or details of the different products, the core of the technology remains the same: ultra-tight fabrics (usually synthetic) that accelerate blood flow and muscle oxygenation (which favours the repair of microtears) and the expulsion of lactic acid (the culprit believed to cause muscle fatigue). At the same time, the tightening effect of the fabric reduces vibrations and unnecessary movements to retain as much energy as possible.

Despite the fact that high-tech fabrics are taking an increasingly important part in the sportswear market (where they are already approved by – if not worn by – pros), many athletes remain sceptical about these claims, especially the spontaneous improvement of performances.

Some physiologists even believe that lactic acid has little to do with muscle fatigue. Finally, the so-called independent studies quantifying the diverse improvements have been put under question. It is interesting to note, however, that compression clothing has delivered positive results in the medical world, where it was developed to treat patients suffering from blood circulation problems such as thrombosis, etc.

1

Having said that, for those curious about trying compression clothing, do exercise caution when shopping. Correct sizing is paramount (you won’t benefit from loose tights), as well as finding the right level of compression and understanding your goal – is it for training or recovery? Finally, caveat emptor: Some companies adopt the “compressive look” but bypass the technology.

Here is a full-body overview of products that get ADVENTURA’S thumbs-up.

5

4 2

1

For Upper Body This can be worn alone or as a base layer. Made from Lycra, it’s made to hug the body’s core. In addition, fabric over target areas such as the trapezoid and scapular muscles is tightened to encourage better posture and offer greater support of the arms and shoulders, thereby reducing unnecessary vibration. The Coolmax fabric is also known to reduce body temperature, which helps prevent dehydration while offering quick moisture evaporation.

CW-X VersatX Web LS lon | $90 | cw-x.com

2

For Calves Calves can be especially sensitive after hard work. This is said to resolve that issue, thanks to a 28 mmHg compression at the ankle and 18 mmHg below the knee. The company claims that wearing these sleeves lowers lactic acid production by 20% and recovery time by 40%. The blend of polypropylene and silver fibres (Silver Tech) also has antibacterial properties to protect you from mould.

ZOOT CRX Active calf sleeves | $80 | zootsports.com

20 T 7:L;DJKH7 T HEG>C< '%&% T lll#VYkZcijgVbV\#XV

Enhances Performance...

© 2009 Nikwax Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Scott Reid Photo.

3

3 For Lower Body

Skins is undoubtedly the best-known compression clothing brand (along with Australian makers 2XU and CW-X) – as well as one of the pioneers in the category. Independent fibres (Lycra and Meryl) create a gradual compression from 15 mmHg at the waist, climbing to 23 mmHg at the ankle where the body often requires better blood flow. According to independent studies, it improves this by 31%. Appropriate for a wide range of activities, it is also designed to adapt to different temperatures and provides SPF 50 protection. Its comfortable style makes it appropriate for recovery.

SKINS sport tights | $150 | skins.net

4

For Arms These are meant for both exercise and rest. As they are made with Invista Lycra fibres with an antibacterial coating, their circular knit method allows for even, 360-degree distribution of compression, adaptable to various temperatures. According to 2XU, this fabric retains its elasticity 40% longer than that used by the competition, providing superior support.

2XU Compression arm sleeves | $55 | 2xu.com

5

For Toes and Feet The technology behind Injinji socks was inspired by the anatomy of toes: Each one is sheltered separately, which results in less sweating and fewer blisters. The Ex-Celerator style is meant for running, biking, training, etc. and is made from 70% Coolmax, 25% nylon and 5% Lycra. The pressure is gradual from the ankle to the calf, the latter of which is doubled up in fabric for more comfort.

INJINJI Ex-Celerator socks | $55 | injinji.com

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To obtain positive training results, we are often taught to push ourselves to the edge of our physical limits.

No pain, no gain. It is possible, however, to take this mantra to the extreme. Putting undue stress on your body is a serious health concern. Find out how you can distinguish between going the distance and having gone too far.

Š iStockphoto

By Catherine Cardinal

5GD 0UDQSQ@HMHMF &PT@SHNM &W@FFDQ@SDC SQ@HMHMF KN@C Physical stress, excess activity

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Personal or professional stress 22 T 7:L;DJKH7 T HEG>C< '%&% T lll#VYkZcijgVbV\#XV

1NRRHAKD OGXRHNKNFHB@K NUDQKN@C Diminished performance and increased recovery time

My cycling season was well underway. After a good (moderately intense) workout along the Circuit Gilles Villeneuve, I went home. On the way, I started to feel a bit woozy and my heart was beating at a disproportionate rate. This was followed by dizziness and cold sweats. A bit panicked, I tried to calm down and wait for the discomfort to pass. It wasn’t until after a restless night that I realized it was necessary to see a healthcare professional.

The diagnosis? “Overtraining and depression.”

Unconvinced, I packed up my things and went for a second opinion. I paid a visit to Suzanne Leclerc, a general practitioner who specializes in sports medicine.

She administered a blood test and talked to me in detail about my situation. To my surprise, her conclusion was the same – except for the depression. Apparently, overtraining doesn’t only happen to top athletes: It can affect amateurs as well.

What is overtraining?

Overtraining can be described as “overload” or “a burnout.” It can occur due to excessive activity, but also, surprisingly, due to an accumulation of physical and psychological stress. The latter occurs when the sport you are practising (regardless of volume or intensity) couples with the stress of everyday life and becomes too much for your body to handle. It is not unusual for a top athlete to experience at least one episode of overtraining in his or her career. But for non-professionals, the risks are less obvious.

Should you be worried?

People at the greatest risk are perfectionist types who fully engage in anything they undertake: those who take the mantra “that which does not kill you makes you stronger" overboard. If this sounds familiar, there are signals to look for that the body emits. These “alarms,” both physical and psychological, can tell you when resources have been exhausted. In general, be careful when your athletic performance decreases and recovery time increases, sleep problems arise (prolonged states of restlessness or feverishness) or if you experience a

Sports psychologist Bruno Ouellette works with athletes of various backgrounds using various questionnaires to assess their psychological state. He considers several factors: ability to concentrate, feelings of accomplishment, enthusiasm and motivation. For the athlete who manages his or her own fitness regime, these indicators (which often resemble those of depression) must be relied upon to render the hypothesis of athletic burnout.

The science of feeling good Some disciplines are more likely to lead to excess and overload. Cycling and running have their share of hardcore enthusiasts endlessly seeking a more intense “adrenalin rush,” a state of bliss chemically induced thanks to a secretion of endorphins. Physical activity also

“Overtraining is the tipping

point where the training load is disproportionate to the capacity for resilience.”

releases dopamine, the pleasure hormone. Such wellbeing sought by our bodies can cause neurochemical dependence, leading some people to do too much and expose themselves to risks of excess in order to achieve that “natural high.”

It is also helpful to observe how the body stores the sportive charge and to consider the importance of alternating training. A good workout consists of alternating cycles of intensity, volume and rest periods. Too many people still believe that one must suffer to beat the clock.

Associating “prolonged rest” with “lowered performance” is another erroneous concept. Sports experts agree that one must not forget the value of recovery in performance improvement. Rest must follow intensity in order for the phenomenon of “overcompensation” to occur: After

© iStockphoto

Laurent Bosquet, a former professor in the Department of Kinesiology at the University of Montreal and a specialist on the issue of overtraining, has a simple definition of

the problem: “Overtraining is the tipping point where the training load is disproportionate to the capacity for resilience.” He acknowledges that the phenomenon is rare and technically difficult to define because there are many possible causes, and manifestations differ from person to person. “In the majority of cases, we look first at ‘excessiveness,’ a state of exhaustion from which an amateur or professional athlete can recover in a few weeks or a few months. “Overtraining,” however, is an extreme state of overload and is much more serious.

Suzanne Leclerc also notes that such a diagnosis can be difficult to make because before arriving at this conclusion, a range of potential illnesses (anemia, depression, etc.) must first be eliminated.

sudden lack of appetite or an elevated heart rate while at rest. If any of these symptoms occur, you should see a doctor immediately.

Adventura _ spring 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 23

having been emptied of its resources, the body uses this recovery period to increase its capacity.

How to avoid overtraining First, listen to your body; you should know how to reconcile the external load of physical activity in accordance with your body’s response. Training must be planned with peaks and valleys, alternating between moderation and intensity. Rest must follow intensity to achieve overcompensation and to see further progress.

This physiological response varies with time and must be constantly re-evaluated to adjust your training program.

The training load should never be evaluated in an isolated manner. The influences of other “existential concerns” in the equation are also determining factors. Faced with moderate training without any particular added stress, the body will react well and will be able to easily restock its reserves. But if the daily stress is too great, even a light training can overload an anxious athlete.

Recovering from overload To heal from overtraining, you must significantly reduce physical activity. Laurent Bosquet states that this period should consist of an 80% reduction in the activities performed. This temporary “retirement” frightens many athletes who worry about losing the standard of excellence they have achieved. But Bosquet assures that a person who maintains intensity, despite decreasing training volume, need not fear reduced capacity. This change can even lead to optimized potential. It is however difficult to quantify the ideal recovery time, which will vary depending on the degree of exhaustion.

In minor cases, training may resume after a few weeks or months. If the problem is more serious, it may take months to a year or more.

A final word on balance A certain taboo exists around the subject of overtraining.

For who wants to admit they lack the mental strength to overcome physical challenges? But beware: Social and personal pressure to mask perceived weaknesses can produce negative consequences. In being too concerned with endurance, we risk losing that endurance altogether.

Athlete or not, you should know your limits and always be mindful of balance between improvement and passion.

No matter if you stop, slow down or take a break, your goal will always be right in front of you.

AGENDA

By Sarah Kelsey

APR. 1 TO 30

© Defi Sportif, Jean-Baptiste Benavent

WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO DO THIS SPRING. MAY 22 APRIL // RAID AVENTURE Outaouais, Quebec

// WHITE WATER FEST Montérégie, Quebec You may know how to dive, but can you swim with the best of them when the water’s freeze-your-butt-off cold? Live up to the test at this one-of-a-kind diving and rafting event. bassinenfete.com

This adventure race will satisfy the needs of any athlete (from beginner to advanced): You’ll traverse 45 km by bushwalking, paddling and mountain-biking. raidpulse.com

MAY 22 TO 24

// WHITE SQUALL 25TH ANNIVERSARY EVENT Nobel, Ontario

APR. 27 TO MAY 2

// DÉFI SPORTIF FOR DISABLED ATHLETES Montreal, Quebec The body knows no physical limits. Watch as thousands of athletes from around the world – elite and newcomer – come together to compete in over 13 sports, including volleyball, fencing, swimming and cycling. defisportif.com

What’s better than a free event to learn about the basics of outdoor adventuring?

Not much. So stop by White Squall Paddling Centre to celebrate their anniversary and delve into a variety of classes like how to cook when camping or how to repair your canoe. whitesquall.com

MAY 24

MAY

// OTTAWA MARATHON Ottawa, Ontario

MAY 1

// FRONTIER ADVENTURE SPORTS Huntsville, Ontario Nothing says spring like getting lost in Muskoka’s rugged wilderness and finding your way out by orienteering – and biking, paddling and climbing – through 40 km of unmarked trails. raidthenorth.com

MAY 2

// QUEBEC CITY INTERNATIONAL HALF-MARATHON Quebec City, Quebec Challenge your legs and indulge in picturesque views while running this halfmarathon, which loops through Quebec City and the Bay of Beauport. A 30-km and 10-km race are also available. runquebeccity.com

Strap on your shoes and sprint past other hardcore runners at this Boston Marathon qualifying race. ncm.ca

MAY 24 TO SEPT. 6

// ALCATEL-LUCENT SUNDAY BIKE DAYS Ottawa, Ontario Want to stop traffic? Then take part in this every-Sunday-morning event. You get to bike or inline skate panoramic parkways that are usually home to the hustle and bustle of cars. canadascapital.gc.ca

BE A PART OF ADVENTURA’S AGENDA

Are you organizing a special outdoor activity or event next spring or summer? Tell us about it and you may see yourself in our next issue. info@adventuramag.ca

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Presented by

9th Edition In collaboration with

MONTREAL

Parc Jean-Drapeau | MAY

14-16, 2010

QUEBEC CITY Baie de Beauport | MAY

28-30, 2010

Discover QUEBECâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S OUTDOOR LIFESTYLE Over 100 exhibitors under tents and 130 workshops Special activities, dynamic structures and more!

FREE ENTRANCE FESTIVALPLEINAIR.CA

POWER TRIP

Largely unknown, the Nohoch Nah Chich cenote system in Mexicoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mayan Riviera is a magical underground maze. By Ilona Kauremszky

O

nly diehards tread here. Always ready to try something new, I wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t going to let my fear of dark places get in the way of what I thought would be a good time. My other half and I overheard another couple rave about their high-octane trip into a cenote close to our all-inclusive, so we decided to ditch the beach blankets for some jungle adventure.

Except for local Mayans, few know what lies beneath the wild jungles off the Mayan coast. In the late 1980s a group of professional divers began diving the crystalline waters of Nohoch Nah Chich, an infamous cenote system that rather tellingly means â&#x20AC;&#x153;giant birdcageâ&#x20AC;? in Mayan. They explored the uncharted maze of intricate caves resembling Swiss cheese with its countless tunnels and passages.

While the sheer size continues to bafďŹ&#x201A;e scientists, in 2007 a team of explorers and the INAH (National Institute of Anthropology and History) managed to conďŹ rm what locals suspected for centuries. They identiďŹ ed a 153-km (95-mi) underwater cave system connecting Nohoch to another cave system called Sac Actun. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We still have a great deal more to do,â&#x20AC;? British diver Stephen Bogaerts told National Geographic and added, â&#x20AC;&#x153;There are other cave systems nearby that we are currently trying to connect into this system, and one of the goals of that is to show everybody how interconnected this [underground river system] is.â&#x20AC;?

Š Keith Binns

Divers and newbies are discovering that full-day snorkelling tours of this Mayan underworld barely scratch the cave systemâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface, but the tour makes for an incredibly wondrous experience. My boyfriend and I hitched up with two tattoo-riddled German adrenalin junkies, Hans and George, to explore the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second-longest underground river system.

In a remote Mayan community away from the sprawling resorts of Playa del Carmen, we descend a two-storey rocky grotto by a precariously tied, moss-ridden rickety ladder. Fins thrown ďŹ rst, I clamour to the slippery goop, feeling my mortality as we reach the bottom, which reveals a giant cavern.

Dubbed by the Mayans â&#x20AC;&#x153;Yaaxmul,â&#x20AC;? meaning â&#x20AC;&#x153;the door of the heavens,â&#x20AC;? Mayan ceremonies occurred at this sacred freshwater sinkhole, a clear pure pool of luminescent turquoise-tinged waters. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The sweet and soft water and the colour are gifts from Chac, the Mayan god of rain who lived in the underworld,â&#x20AC;? explains Markus Oberolorfer, our Austrian-native guide (with tour operator Alltournative) who gets a surge out of guiding like-minded souls through this subterranean world.

PLAN AHEAD

Cave diving is big and snorkelling is gaining speed around the Mayan Riviera. For a great introduction, read The Cenotes of the Riviera Maya (cenotesoftherivieramaya.com/16appendix.htm) by acclaimed caver Steve Gerrard.

SLEEP For the sand-in-your-suitcase type and the unfussy person, cabanas are the order of the day at Diamante K (998-185-8300 :: diamatek.com), a rugged rustic retreat along a private beach near Tulum.

Teetotum Hotel (984-745-8827 :: teetotumhotel.com) is a laid-back luxury boutique hotel ideal for those who enjoy a plunge pool, free bikes and prefer plugging in their iPods and laptops in a Wi-Fi-accessible zone.

EAT Try some eats at the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cave of the Monkey,â&#x20AC;? Cueva del Chango (0LAYA DEL #ARMEN s lacuevadelchango.com), which offers typical Mexican dishes in a Mayan hut atmosphere.

An art gallery, local musicians and people-watching all make Charlieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bar and Resto (984-871-2573) a popular hangout

26 T 7:L;DJKH7 T HEG>C< '%&% T lll#VYkZcijgVbV\#XV

Like seals we ďŹ&#x201A;oat and marvel at the primeval dreamscape of stalactites and stalagmites dripping off and spiralling from the cave wall. Now acclimatized to the frigid water we leave this cave and cut across the jungle brush, crickets piercing the still tropical air. The terra ďŹ rma is dotted in ancient ceiba trees, a Mayan symbol connoting reverence due to its ability to withstand hurricanes. The treeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long dark webbed root system makes the ground uneven, so we negotiate between the tall

for those who enjoy chilling out with some good local grub and killer margaritas in a friendly, relaxing atmosphere.

PLAY The Mayan Riviera has a variety of outdoor activities.

Our favourites include mountain biking around Mayan farmlands, zip-lining through the jungle and sea kayaking along the Great Mayan coral reef.

GETTING THERE Mexicana, Air Transat and Air Canada ďŹ&#x201A;y direct from Toronto and Montreal to Cancun. From early December to May, WestJet will offer Toronto and Montreal departures to Cancun. Tour operators Sunwing, Sunquest and Signature Vacations also ďŹ&#x201A;y direct from Toronto and Montreal to Cancun. :: mexicana.com :: airtransat.ca :: aircanada.com :: westjet.com SEASON Winter is best.

MORE INFO -EXICO 4OURISM "OARD s 1-800-44 MEXICO :: visitmexico.com !LLTOURNATIVE s ALLTOURNATIVE COM

Š Stephen Smith

THE GOOD The Great Mayan reefs and mind-blowing underwater caverns.

THE BAD Not ideal for claustrophobes and those afraid of the dark.

THE WEIRD A remote outdoor playground awaits near the burgeoning resort strips. grasses and rock protrusions. In the Mayan world, the roots mean the underworld and represent a peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passing into the next life. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Do you think weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll encounter any weirdness?â&#x20AC;? I asked Hans, who spent the last two days zip-lining through the jungle and mountain biking near the archaeological site of Tulum. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Back in Germany we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have anything like this,â&#x20AC;? he says.

Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for sure. Mysteries and excitement go hand in hand in this watery graveyard.

A deep ancient hole, the size of a hot-air balloon, carved in the cliffside cradles a mirror-still pool. It was to be our ďŹ nal obstacle course before a Mayan lunch followed by some sea kayaking along the Great Mayan Reef, famous for its coral. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll want to wear these wetsuits for our next leg,â&#x20AC;? musters Markus. Before the ice age, a humungous meteorite wedged into the earth, leaving a massive crater pitted with rings of fractures that formed water reservoirs between the limestone layers sitting on top of the ancient bedrock. Mayans paid homage to the â&#x20AC;&#x153;cenoteâ&#x20AC;? (say-NOH-tay, meaning â&#x20AC;&#x153;natural wellsâ&#x20AC;?), some say, by human sacriďŹ ce. These days itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a hotbed of divingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lunatic fringe, otherwise known as the cavers.

While an eerie white glow radiated from the domed ceiling, I considered how master magician Criss Angel might escape from this. The ancient Mayans didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t.

They threw human sacriďŹ ces into the cenote of Chichen Itza. I held a deep breath and thrust my head underwater, half expecting to see a skeleton or two. Instead, a catacomb of dagger-like limestone stalagmites pierced menacingly upward from the clear depths. The steady blare of my own heavy breathing kept me company as we toiled deeper into the underbelly of Nohoch.

0' . 1 '2 * 3 ' * 1

We were armed with two underwater ďŹ&#x201A;ashlights; the light beams made dancing shadows off the uneven walls pitted with limestone pillars and claw-like shapes. The further we snorkelled, the narrower the channel became. Not for the claustrophobic â&#x20AC;&#x201C; at points I literally squeezed my body through a crevice barely wide enough for one. The water level at points was so high, our heads scraped the ceiling with very little space remaining for breathing room. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Want to get to Heavenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gate? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s another 200 metres,â&#x20AC;? said Markus. The hulking Germans looked nervous but didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t reply. I did. Throwing my snorkel off, I gasped, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I get the picture.â&#x20AC;? So our motley crew quickly and without hesitation turned around to swim back to the mouth of this cenote.

Before we were out from the thick of things, Markus stopped again. Water feeling colder, I gritted my teeth tightly around the snorkel as he gestured underwater in the direction of another limestone cavern.

Blackness descends some more. The visibility is non-existent. I can only see my hands wading. I crane my head searching for my other half, Stephen, but canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see him. A near-panic attack implodes as I scan the bobbing bodies. Markus stops in his tracks, aims the light toward the craggy limestone ceiling. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s this?â&#x20AC;? he asks. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dead silence. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dunno,â&#x20AC;? says Stephen, who reveals himself at the back of the pack.

I volunteer, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tell me what I think it is.â&#x20AC;? Suddenly the ceiling comes alive.

Near our heads ďŹ&#x201A;ap the wings of a dozen bats ready for ďŹ&#x201A;ight. I screamed from this purgatory which the ancient Mayans called heaven.

I followed the ďŹ&#x201A;ashlight beam back, shrieking all the way. If this is heaven then what does hell look like? Call it a Yucatan mindfreak.

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Mind & BODY

ENERGY © Pascal Genest

GELS Stay energized when you’re on the run – or bike, hike and so on. Read up on our expert tips on how to max out your power input.

By Catherine Naulleau, PDt., sports nutritionist

You’ve probably seen those small colourful packets before. And chances are you’ve even tried those viscous mixtures of sugar, water and flavouring, which were created to give you a quick boost of energy and electrolytes. With so many of them on the market, here are a few tips on finding the right gel for you.

Energy gels

Carbohydrates

Proteins Sodium Types of carbs

Accelerade

20 g

5 g

95 mg

Maltodextrin, cornstarch, whey proteins, trehalose

Carb BOOM!

27 g

0 g

50 mg

Maltodextrin, fruit purées

Clif Shots

25 g

0 g

40 mg

Brown rice syrup, fruit purées

CytoSport

27 g

0 g

35 mg

Maltodextrin, fructose, glycerine

GU, GU Roctane

20–25 g

0–1 g

40 mg

Maltodextrin, fructose

Hammergel

20–23 g

0 g

20–27 mg

Maltodextrin, fruit juices

Powergel

27 g

0 g

200 mg

Maltodextrin, fructose, glycerine

Snacks

Carbohydrates

Proteins Sodium Types of carbs

Clif Blok Shots (3)

25 g

0 g

70 mg

Carb Boom! Chews (24) 24 g

0 g

70 mg Tapioca syrup, maltodextrin, sucrose

Sharkies (1 package)

45 g

0 g

125 mg Rice syrup, cane juice, white grape juice

Sports Beans

25 g

0 g

60–80 mg

28 _ Adventura _ spring 2010 _

www.adventuramag.ca

Brown rice syrup, cane juice

Sucrose, cornstarch

1. Understand what your body needs When you’re performing a physical activity, most of your energy comes from the carbohydrates in your body (between 50–60%). If you don’t have enough carbohydrate reserves, you need to add some as your physical activity is extended. During the activity, you should consume carbs in relation to the following formula: between 0.5 and 0.7 g per kilogram of your body weight per hour.

For a man weighing 70 kg, this figures out to between 35 and 50 g per hour. You also need to take in between 500 and 700 mg of sodium/hour. On average, the gels contain between 25 to 30 grams of carbohydrates and less than 100 mg of sodium. You’ll have to make up for the shortfall by consuming an energy drink or other sources of energy.

2. Know the optimum time The ideal time to consume energy gels is during your activity, so that you can maintain a consistent energy level. Depending on the type of activity you are doing, gels are a good way to go, especially if finding a food product that provides a quick energy boost is your priority. Energy gels are perfect for adventure raids, a bike race or during a transition phase in a triathlon. Try not to consume these gels before an event, as some people react poorly to a concentrated intake of carbs a few minutes before starting a physical activity. This can also lead to hypoglycemia during the activity.

• Packages are small, light and easy to transport.

• Ideal for anyone with a weak stomach or who has trouble digesting solid foods during a physical activity.

• Easy to swallow and you don’t need to chew it – an unpleasant chore when you’re out of breath.

• Very convenient for endurance races for a quick energy boost.

• Taste appeals to many thanks to a wide selection of flavours and textures.

• Not very ecological, unless you use big containers and pour some of the contents into your own bottle.

• Almost all contain maltodextrin, a polysaccharide that some people cannot tolerate.

• Must be taken with fluids because it is too concentrated to be taken alone.

• Price can be high.

Beginner Activity Day-long kayak outing on the ocean or mountain hiking with a few rest periods Reach for Carb Boom! (Kiwi-Strawberry) Why The ingredients are very natural and it’s made from a fruit purée base.

That’s noteworthy for people that are nutritional-value-conscious. Carb Boom! also has several tasty fruit flavours. It’s great for the final hour of physical activity.

Price $4–$5

Intermediate Activity Olympic-distance triathlete training for the half-Ironman competition.

Reach for Powergel (Vanilla Latte) Why There is more fluid, it’s easy to swallow and rich in sodium. It’s ideal for the last hour of biking and the final leg of running a race, where you’re looking for liquid rather than solid nourishment to avoid digestive problems related to the impact of the race movements.

Price $4–$5.25

Advanced Activity 24-hour Adventure Raid (or Ultramarathon) Reach for Accelerade Gel (Chocolate or Orange) Why It contains lots of proteins and caffeine. For such events, the duration of the activity is too long to be able to perform at your peak simply by taking on carbohydrates. This way, you’re adding a bit more. The proteins help the recuperation process, while the caffeine helps restore energy and diminishes the feeling of fatigue.

Price $5–$5.50 Adventura _ spring 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 29

Š Patrice Halley

Last call

The Climb: CERO EL ROBLE I climbed the Cero El Roble by bike during a trip to Chile with Sacred Rides (sacredrides.com). Up on this 2,222-metre mountain located in the Parque Nacional La Campana, we could see the Aconcagua, the highest point of the Andes at 6,962 m.

Descending the trail, by mountain bike or on foot, through the different ecosystems is magnificent. At the top, near the observatory, eagles and vultures had a field day in the thermal currents. After I took this shot of my companions David Leach (left), our professional mountain guide Pancho Herrera (centre) and former Chilean downhill champion Eduardo de Solminihac (right), we stayed far too long watching the setting sun. It took two hours to make our often quite technical descent at night â&#x20AC;&#x201C; without headlamps! Each of our tumbles was punctuated by memorable bursts of laughter.

THE TOOLS: Nikon D200, 17-35 mm f/2.8 lens, ISO 100, f/5.6, 1/125 second.

- Patrice Halley, photographer 30 _ Adventura _ spring 2010 _

www.adventuramag.ca

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