Adventura - Winter 2010

For hiking, snowshoeing, backcountry skiing, eating, and a lot more...

How to fall in love with cold-season sports Banff: Close to Heaven... and Hell!

Going the distance with ultra-runner Charlotte Vasarhelyi

Camp Coffee Test: Get your caffeine kick in the woods Tech It Out: Three top performers to add to your wish list Snow Business: Everything you need for backcountry skiing

[DESTINATIONS] Hot spots for skate skiing Cross-country skiing in High Park Snowshoeing on the Elora Cataract Trailway

Adventura _ winter 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 1 Winter 2010 _ Vol. 2, No. 4 _ www.adventuramag.ca

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Contents // winter 2010 // Vol. 2 :: No. 4

06

08

10

20

24

28

[04] EDITOR’S NOTE

• Snowshoeing on the Elora Cataract Trailway • Winter hiking on the OttawaCarleton Trailway

[06] FIELD REPORT Going the Distance: 3 questions for ultra-runner Charlotte Vasarhelyi • Big Bucks, Small Change • Hot spots for your next skate skiing trip • Excuse Me? A humorous look at how to get out of sticky situations • Two outdoorsy books to enjoy • Agenda: Outdoor activities in Ontario and Quebec for this winter season

[12] WEEKEND GETAWAY Winter Wake-up: Learning to enjoy – and fall in love with – cold-season sports

[18] LIVING LARGE Outaouais • Walter’s Falls • Kawarthas

[20] GLOBETROTTER Banff: Close to Heaven… and Hell!

[10] DAYTRIPPER Cross-country skiing in High Park

[24] GEAR 24 // Camp Coffee Test: Get your caffeine kick in the woods 25 // Tech It Out: Three top performers to add to your wish list 26 // Snow Business: Everything you need for backcountry skiing

[28] MIND & BODY The Perfect Formula: How to calculate your energy requirements

[30] LAST CALL Sunrise in ancient Guatemala

Adventura _ winter 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 3

EDITOR’S NOTE

Adventure’s dark side Gold medallist Freestyle skiing moguls

When things take a bad turn in the outdoors, a life-or-death situation can quickly spring up. Insouciance, lack of knowledge or overconfidence can lead to circumstances that could be (easily) avoided.

The story of Aron Ralston (which was just brought to the silver screen in Danny Boyle’s 127 Hours) serves as a reminder of the dramatic consequences a simple trek, even in a familiar environment, can have. As I write these lines, about 15 people who’ve seen the movie have blacked

ThE calliNg Of ThE wild, This dEsirE fOr adrENaliN-fillEd advENTurEs Or ThE quEsT fOr ThE pErfEcT ski liNE caN bE sTrONgEr ThaN aNyThiNg ElsE. out during the scene where Ralston cuts off his own arm. The place where he got trapped was familiar to him, but he made the mistake of not telling anyone where he was going and when he’d be back. Simple, but crucial. For five days, he tried unsuccessfully to move the rock that was holding him captive. On the sixth day, delirious, he broke the bones in his arm and cut the rest of it with his knife. Please don’t faint here.

years ago, I was in the Chic-Choc Mountains for a weekend of backcountry skiing with friends. During our last night, a storm dropped a foot of fresh powder that almost convinced us to stay there for a few more turns. When looking at my emails at the office the next day, the news of a skier who died in an avalanche not far from where we were 24 hours earlier made me think of what could have happened to us if we had skied there. Our story of two skiers who provoked an avalanche in a remote area of the Rockies (see page 20) is another example of an adventure that could have taken a tragic turn.

The call of the wild, this desire for adrenalin-filled adventures or the quest for the perfect ski line can be stronger than anything else. In Quebec, 49 percent of the population hike at least once a year. Among them, little more than half (58 percent) hike over 10 times per year. That leaves about 40 percent of hikers venturing into nature with very little experience. In remote places, carrying your mobile phone, having a topographical map of the region, camping where you are to wait for a rescue mission and being as visible as possible are simple actions that can end up saving your life.

Go outside, play and let this magazine serve as an inspiration. But stay alert: Expect nothing, yet be prepared for everything. You never know what might come your way.

Mountaineering history books are filled with such unbelievable tales.

Even seasoned guides sometimes take fewer precautions and more risks when they leave alone, without a group to take care of. These kinds of faux pas aren’t just made by the most audacious types. Two

Christian Lévesque, Editor Follow me on Twitter: @chrislevesque

Winter 2010 :: Vol. 2 :: No. 4

Publisher:

Stéphane Corbeil (stephane.corbeil@adventuramag.ca)

editor:

Christian Lévesque (christian.levesque@adventuramag.ca)

senior editor:

Patricia Gajo (patricia.gajo@adventuramag.ca)

Contributors: Alexis Botaya, Bryen Dunn, Alexander Joo, Ashley Joseph, Mathieu Lamarre, Maureen Littlejohn, Mélanie Mantha, Vanessa Muri, Stephania Varalli and Varial.

distribution: Elyzabeth Bouchard, Production Coordinator elyzabeth.bouchard@adventuramag.ca / 514-277-3477, ext. 30

mailing address: Groupe Espaces Inc 911 Jean Talon St. E., Suite 205 Montreal (Quebec) H2R 1V5

CirCulation: 60,000 copies distributed to outdoor enthusiasts everywhere.

Proofreader: Christopher Korchin

ADVENTURA is published four times a year by Groupe Espaces Inc.

translator: Christine Laroche

artiCle submissions: ADVENTURA welcomes editorial and photo submissions, which must be sent by e-mail only. Contact the Editor to discuss. ADVENTURA is not responsible for articles, photographs or any other material sent to its attention. If you do not keep a copy of ADVENTURA magazine for your personal archives, please give it to a friend or recycle it.The opinions expressed are those of the authors and are not necessarily shared

by Groupe Espaces Inc. Some of the activities reported on in ADVENTURA could entail injury risks for anyone engaging in them. ADVENTURA and its reporters, contributors, photographers and other staff members do not recommend the practice of these activities by anyone who does not have the required skills and technique. ADVENTURA is not responsible for the information contained in advertisements. Any reproduction of material published in ADVENTURA is prohibited without the expressed consent of Groupe Espaces Inc.

Cover Photo: Katie Shackelford ski touring in Snowbird, Utah. © Scott Markewitz / Aurora Photos

design: Sève Création, seve.ca Website: www.adventuramag.ca editorial dePartment: 514-277-3477 / info@adventuramag.ca advertising: Marie-Annick Lamber, Sales Consultant ma.lambert@adventuramag.ca / 514-277-3477, ext. 28 Jean-François Vadeboncoeur, Sales Consultant jf.vadeboncoeur@adventuramag.ca / 514-277-3477, ext. 27

NEW Jennifer Heil Gold medallist / Freestyle skiing – moguls Discover Jennifer Heil’s blog on marcelle.com

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Field Report

25 km of cross-country ski trails 7 km of snowshoe trails • Visitor chalet open Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM, December 18th to April 3rd

G OING THE DISTANCE Q&A with Ultra-Runner Charlotte Vasarhelyi

By Stephania Varalli

Think a marathon is a long way to go? When Charlotte Vasarhelyi makes it to 42.2 km, she’s only just begun. As one of Canada’s top ultra-runners, the 34-year-old Breslau, Ontario, resident logs about 160 km weekly – and all this despite working full-time as an engineering specialist. Her love of the sport mirrors her trajectory: She competed in her first 50-km ultra-marathon in the summer of 2004; by the following January she was in 100-mile races, and made the National 24-Hour Team in 2006; and these days she’s on the podium. The latest superhuman feat? In June she set the speed record for running the Bruce Trail from end to end, a distance of 894 km. We talked to Charlotte about her experiences on the Bruce, and what keeps her going – and going and going.

• Visitor information at the chalet during opening hours: 450-452-4608

aspect of ultra-running is definitely the mental component. It is 95 percent mental and only five percent physical. I believe the only limitations that we have are those we put on ourselves, so if you can envision yourself achieving a goal, then usually you can accomplish it.

• Snowshoe rentals on site

How did you break the record?

I originally planned my days utilizing the maps from the Blaze the Niagara Escarpment Race in 2009, which was a relay speed record run of the Bruce Trail that I took part in. There were crew access points at the end of each leg, usually 22 to 24 km apart.

At the end of day four I abandoned this plan, as I found the trail altered and I needed my crew more regularly. From then on we continuously planned and adjusted the crew areas and mileage.

I was running for most daylight hours, with short sections in the dark of the morning and night, averaging about 14 to 15 hours per day. My finishing time was 13 days, 10 hours, 51 minutes.

What inspired you to take on the challenge of the Bruce Trail?

I have had the dream of completing the entire Bruce Trail for over a decade, having hiked and run the trail most of my adult life. I decided I would attempt it solo in 2009. I wanted to embark on this adventure in part for the self-discovery that only comes when you peel away all the layers. I wanted to use this journey to learn and grow, to become a better person, and to use those experiences to inspire others.

What training and preparation was required?

I ran a minimum of 100 miles nearly every week in the 12 months leading up to the event, sometimes up to 150 miles. With work and family commitments, and trying to maintain balance, I often trained twice a day – once at 3 or 4 a.m. and again in the evening on trails. On the weekends I went for long trail runs with friends, and complemented this with strength training and yoga. I also chose to run a few races in 2010 that I normally wouldn’t, like a winter 24-hour, for the challenge. The toughest

What could you do next to top this achievement?

I have a few goals for the upcoming year. I want to surpass 200 km at a 24-hour event, and break 18 hours for 100 miles.

I would like to complete another trail end-to-end run, likely in 2011. I will always have a passion for long distances and for the challenge of testing my limits. And a love of being in nature.

Ultra-running has changed my life forever.

Charlotte competes mostly in trail 100-milers and 24-hour races. Her favourites: •H .U.R.T. 100-Mile Trail Race in Hawaii: hurt100trailrace.com •M cNaughton Park 150-Mile Trail Race in Illinois: mcnaughtonparktrailruns.com • L ost Soul 100-Mile Trail Race in Alberta: lostsoulultra.com •C ommonwealth and Ultra-Running Championships, Team Canada 24-Hour, Keswick, UK: wumbriacommonwealthchampionships.org

+ + + + + + ++ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

BookS

15 Boisé-des-Franciscaines St. Rigaud (exit 12 on Highway 40) Ask for our trail map Info: 450-451-0869, ext. 238 www.ville.rigaud.qc.ca

A Woman in the Polar Night Greystone Books | By Christiane Ritter | $19.95

Explorers DK Publishing | $45

Choosing to travel the Arctic is usually reserved for those bored of the regular tourist loops on the drier parts of the earth, or for escaped felons on the lam.

Although in this day and age, you can be sure to run into at least one McDonald’s serving customers wrapped with pelt. Not so in 1934, the year Christiane Ritter decided to trudge up to Grey Hook (fly to Finland, head north until you see a triangular cluster of islands, then travel to the northernmost point; bring lots of books).

Though she grudgingly went to be with her eccentric, nature-loving husband, the sheer loneliness and haunting silence of the untouched landscape proved to be transformative, and she reached the state of mind you won’t get on Koh Samui. “A year in the Arctic should be compulsory to everyone. Then you will come to realize what’s important in this life and what isn’t.”

– Alexander Joo

Whether it’s the new Ethiopian restaurant around the block or the deepest recesses of the Pacific, mankind has always had the urge to explore. Explorers presents the most intrepid expeditions of our ancestors, from Alexander the Great expanding his empire, to our modern trailblazers trying to find us cheap rent on Mars. This oversized hardcover isn’t merely a coffee-table book to sit atop your coffee table but a detailed tome meant to be, well, explored. First-person accounts, rare maps, specially commissioned photographs, charts and artwork recreating the travels of people who have never owned an iPod are all illustrated in 360 beautiful pages to ensure an immersive reading experience.

– Alexander Joo

Looking for reasons to get outdoors – and out of undesirable situations? We’ve found a few good excuses to help you get out and discover Quebec and Ontario. Here’s what to say (and do) when you don’t feel like… By Alexis Botaya … Eating dinnEr with your mothEr-in-law on a Saturday go cross-country skiing under a full moon!

YOUR EXCUSE: Sorry, in-laws: This isn’t just any Saturday – it’s a full moon. What happens on a full moon? The Parc des Sentiers de la Presqu’île, in the Lanaudière region, opens its 48 km of cross-country skiing terrain and six km of snowshoeing trails – and it’s just 20 minutes from Montreal! And if there’s no snow, no worries: The park also boasts 15 km of hiking trails. lessentiers.net … taking thE kidS to SEE thE latESt harry PottEr go snowshoeing and storytelling!

YOUR EXCUSE: While being barricaded in a dark, stuffy room and inhaling a ton of popcorn sounds appealing, a nighttime snowshoeing excursion led by a professional guide in Gatineau Park sounds even better. Storytelling and some hot chocolate will make the kiddies forget about J.K. Rowling’s wand-waving wizards in no time. The tour takes off at 5:45 p.m. and ends around 7:15 p.m. – just in time for bedtime. votreforfait.com (click on “Moonlight Snowshoeing”)

BIG BUCKS vs SMALL CHANGE When camping in the cold season, never underestimate the importance of a good sleeping bag. If you can, splurge on the real deal. But if your budget won’t go that far, don’t fret.

Faux fill can be just as good..

By Ashley Joseph

SMaLL CHaNGE Its neo-synthetic fill accounts for the drastic drop in price, but don’t let that throw you off. This sub-zero sleeping bag uses Climashield’s continuous filament insulation, developed for the military and backed by 25 years of research. The Dark Star stands up to the Expedition in weight, warmth and space, and leaves you more than enough spare change to buy one for you and your significant other.

THE NoRTH FaCE Dark Star | -40ºC | $370 | www2.thenorthface.com/ca

© Sépaq - Jean-Pierre Huard- Parc du mont St-Bruno

EXCUSE ME?

… Facing thE holiday madnESS go to the Quebec countryside!

YOUR EXCUSE: You need a little Zen, tranquility and calm.

After all, a hectic life can be exhausting, especially when you add a non-stop shopping marathon into the mix! Grab your walking shoes and leave it all behind: Le Refuge, near Quebec City, is arguably one of the area’s best-kept secrets. Expect peace and quiet on the trails, especially if you choose the 15, 20 or 25. A haven of peace where you can explore – like the romantic Germans – the 46 km of skiable terrain surrounded by trees and mountains. To quote Goethe: “Nature is beneficent, I praise her and all her works.” centrelerefuge.com … SPEnding thE wEEkEnd with thoSE oh-Soannoying couSinS go up north and perfect your skills!

YOUR EXCUSE: What? The kids still haven’t learned to crosscountry ski? Well, that cannot wait any longer: Cousins or no cousins, this weekend marks the first snowfall. About two hours from the Toronto airport is Blue Mountain, where your offspring can kick and glide to their hearts’ content, with a little help from a ski school teacher. Plus, it’s a great opportunity for mom and dad to brush up on their skills, too. bluemountain.ca

… going to work on monday go away for the weekend!

YOUR EXCUSE: You’ve been dreaming of the 53-km ski circuit at Jacques-Cartier National Park, and with all the snow that has fallen it’s become futile to resist (especially since the park is known for its great snow). But because of the distance, you’ll need to take a long weekend, travelling 20, 11 and 22.5 kilometres respectively each day, stopping to sleep in the Balbuzard and La Cachée rustic cabins. You won’t make it to the office until Tuesday... Oh well. sepaq.com BIG BUCKS Since it’s built to withstand Arctic conditions as cold as -40ºC, you can bank on the Expedition to keep you warm through the most frigid nights. It packs up to about the height of two water bottles so you don’t have to worry about bulk, and with enough leg room to fit an NBA player, you’ll have more than enough space for a comfortable night’s rest – even if you’re the toss-and-turn type of sleeper.

RaB Expedition 1200 | -40ºC | $750 | us.rab.uk.com

WILDERNESS TRIPS AND TRAINING Magpie River Adventure - 8 & 13 days Rafting, kayaking, and gourmet camping on Canada’s best whitewater trip

Wilderness First Aid Courses Courses in Ontario and Quebec with Wilderness Medical Associates

Whitewater Expedition Leader - 12 days Get first aid, rescue, and canoeing certifications on a Dumoine River expedition

preview the trips and courses

© Photos : woodvale-challenge.com

www.borealriver.com call (866) 242-9383

AdventurA _ winter 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 7

SKATE SKIING

TRAIL BLAZING

By Ashley Joseph

© Rossignol

The speed-driven, aerobically inclined sister to crosscountry skiing is rapidly gaining momentum in parks and mountains all over Ontario and Quebec. With roots in ancient Scandinavian culture (when hunters used a technique they called “marathon skate”), skate skiing is a great way to build up stamina and get in your cardio this winter. But be warned: This sport is techniqueintensive. So if this is your first run, it might be a good idea to seek out a lesson or two before hitting the trails solo. Beginner, novice or expert, here are our top picks for your next skate skiing adventure.

Ontario

The Pinery

Algonquin Park

Whitney Home of the Algonquin Park Ski Marathon, this park has earned its bragging rights for some of the best ski conditions in Ontario. Two out of the park’s three trails offer sections specially manicured and widened for skate skiing, Leaf Lake and Fen Lake (the setting for the park’s eponymous marathon), which amounts to about 25 km of skate-ski trails. The X-factor of this ski haven is the magnificent winter vistas offered by the park’s rich natural environment, which makes for a one-of-a-kind experience. algonquinpark.on.ca

Parcs Québec

Opt for Parc National d’Oka

Grand Bend Although the Pinery is known primarily for maintaining the largest oak savanna in North America, you’ll find more than just majestic woodlands at this sprawling provincial park.

Skate skiing at the Pinery is a breeze, especially if you’re a dog lover. Their specially groomed trails are open to both two-legged and four-legged visitors. Once you’ve exhausted the 11-km skate-ski trail, as well as yourself, head to the chalet for a hot apple cider après-ski. pinerypark.on.ca

Mansfield Outdoor Centre

Mansfield For the urban-dwelling cross-country ski enthusiast, it’s always nice to find a close-to-home option. Only one hour away from Pearson Airport, Torontonians can take advantage of this outdoor oasis with ski trails that wind through the charming Mulmur Hills. About 10 km of its 40-km trail network make up a skate skiing loop where skiers can speed around without interference. Mansfield’s after-ski chalet, formerly a farmhouse dating back to 1907, makes for a perfect repose after a long day of outdoor fun. mansfieldoutdoorcentre.ca

Quebec Camp Mercier

Stoneham-et-Tewkesbury With 12 km of trails specially groomed for skate skiing, cabins for rent, warming huts, a restaurant and ski rentals, this cross-country ski hub leaves nothing to be desired. Located within the mountainous Laurentians Wildlife Reserve region, Mercier’s picturesque surroundings make for unparalleled views. The park also has a skating rink on site, if all that skate skiing puts you in the mood to get out on the ice. sepaq.com/laurentides

Station Touristique Duchesnay

Sainte-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier Only 30 minutes away from Quebec City, Duchesnay lays claim to one of the largest cross-country ski locations in the province. This popular tourist site, also a wildlife reserve since 1981, boasts over 55 km of ski trails, of which 13 km are set up just for skate skiing. sepaq.com/duchesnay

Snow walking Snowshoeing Cross-country skiing and a 4-kilometres lit trail Rustic camping : sleep in your tent Turnkey accomodation package : camping made easy Gîte sous les pins : a rustic inn

© Fischer

d d d d d d

1 800 665 6527 • parcsquebec.com

2010-14 Adventura.indd 1

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agenda

By Ashley Joseph

DECEMBER

Feb. 14

Feb. 14 to 20

Nov. 1 to Feb. 28

// Second Annual Pefferlaw Family Fishing Festival | Pefferlaw, Ontario

Part of the Winter Festival of Lights, this outdoor ice-skating facility offers you a chance to skate alongside one of the most breathtaking sights in the world. wfol.com

Take advantage of the only weekend in winter when Ontarians can fish without a licence at Lake Simcoe’s family-friendly ice fishing festival. No need to bring your own – rods, reels, tackle and bait will all be provided free of charge. lake-simcoe.ca

This year’s Snowboard Jamboree is filled with outdoor events for all ages to enjoy, including a selection of amateur races and contests like the Starmasters street-skating contest for all you skater boys and girls. snowboardjamboree.com

// Rink at the Brink | Niagara Falls, Ontario

// Snowboard Jamboree Stoneham and Quebec City, Quebec

Dec. 12

// Rouge Valley Conservation Centre Nature Walk | Scarborough, Ontario What better way to clear your head – or squeeze in a midday workout – than with a scenic hike through Toronto’s urban nature oasis? The Rouge Valley Naturalists will be offering a two-hour midday hike for a “pay what you can” rate in support of the Rouge Valley Conservation Centre. rvcc.ca

Dec. 29 to Mar. 12

// Starlight Snowshoeing on Mount Royal Montreal, Quebec

The Great Outdoors Starts HERE

Embark on a unique winter experience with a guided nighttime snowshoe outing, complete with snowshoe rentals and a hot chocolate to cap off the evening. lemontroyal.qc.ca

January Jan. 15 to 16

// Canada Post Freestyle Grand Prix Sainte-Adèle, Quebec

Technical Outerwear that performs anywhere!

Head to Ski Mont Gabriel to watch the world’s best freestyle skiers compete for the Canadian World Cup in aerial and mogul competitions. Look out for Canadian ski superstars Alex Bilodeau and Jenn Heil on the slopes this year. freestyleski.com

Jan. 22 to Feb. 6

// La Fête des Neiges de Montréal Montreal, Quebec There’s no better way to enjoy Montreal’s cold season than by taking in this winter festival at beautiful Parc Jean-Drapeau. Tube-slide the hills, get in on a game of hockey or skate along the Saint-Lawrence River. Just don’t miss it! The fest will be on for three consecutive weekends only. parcjeandrapeau.com

Jan. 28 to 30

// La Grande Traversée | Charlevoix, Quebec To mark the Grande Traversée’s 20th anniversary, 40 teams will take to their canots sur glace in this historic event to race across 8 km of rough seas, harking back to the days when the trying journey from l’Isle-aux-Coudres to Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive was the only way across. grandetraversee.com

Come and discover our new technical outerwear collections

February Feb. 4 to 13

// Bon Soo | Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario With snowshoeing, ice skating and ice slides, northern Ontario’s largest winter carnival is bound to get the whole family in the winter spirit. bonsoo.on.ca

Feb. 4 to 20

// Winterlude | Ottawa, Ontario Canada’s official winter festival offers a range of ways to celebrate the season with ice carvings, a veritable snow playground and the world’s largest skating rink. canadascapital.gc.ca

Feb. 12 to 13

Photo credit: Merrell

// Canadian Ski Marathon | Lachute, Quebec Two days, 2,000 participants and 160 km of trails spanning from Gatineau to Lachute make this an event not to be missed – if you can brave the cold, that is. canadianskimarathon.com

Be a part of Adventura’s Agenda

Are you organizing a special outdoor activity or event next spring or summer? Tell us about it and you may see yourself in our next issue. info@adventuramag.ca

Where to find us...

Adventura _ winter 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 9

atmosphere.ca

DAYTRIPPER

resist the temptAtion to stAy indoors during the chilly months. put your wArmest foot forwArd And heAd outdoors for sunshine, fresh Air And new experiences. here Are four eAsy dAy trips thAt mAy hAve you singing Let it snow, Let it snow, Let it snow! All winter long.

ToRonTo

Cross the park under a moonlit sky AcTIvITy: Cross-Country skiing

By Bryen Dunn

The terrain is a combination of rolling hills, trails and roadways, so the goal is to try to stick to the relatively flat trails, minimizing road and hill encounters. A perfect time to strap on the skis is after dark on a moonlit evening, when it is still somewhat bright thanks to the reflective snow and the luminous moon is visible through the leafless trees.

One highlight is to ski by the small zoo within the park. This makes for a unique experience, sliding past the many animals that remain there throughout the winter. Late night is a perfect time to hang in solitude with some of the larger species – bison, llamas, deer and highland cattle – or just with Mr. Moon.

Level: Beginner Season: Winter (dependent on snow levels) Getting there: West end of Toronto (High Park Station on the Bloor subway line or Colborne Lodge stop on the Queen Street streetcar) Cost: Free Gear: Bring your own skis and poles Other activities: Hiking, skating (natural pond and two artificial rinks), hockey For more:

© Stephen Strathdee

The 400-acre High Park is an oasis of activity in winter, especially after a fresh snowfall and Grenadier Pond has frozen over, making it the largest natural skating rink in the city. However, a little-known fact is that cross-country skiing is permitted anywhere in the park, although there are no groomed or marked trails.

High Park Info: highparktoronto.com High Park Ski Club: highparkskiclub.com

ToRonTo

oTTAwA

get heAlthy by going retro

trek Around the nAtion’s cApitAl

AcTIvITy: snowshoeing

AcTIvITy: winter hiking

By Bryen Dunn

By Bryen Dunn

Snowshoeing may seem like an old-fashioned activity a world apart from the extreme sports of today. However, there’s been a renewed interest lately in the great physical and cardio workout it provides.

The nearly 50-km rails-to-trails Elora Cataract Trailway is a great place to spend the day trekking about exploring the rolling countryside. The Trailway is not maintained during the winter, and is thus used for various outdoor pursuits.

Beginning at the western trailhead in Elora, you will pass by two conservation areas, Bellwood Lake and Shand Dam, as well as the Grand River before reaching the eastern point in Cataract. This trail also takes in parts of the Niagara Escarpment and the Credit Valley and Grand River Watersheds, and has access points to the Bruce Trail system.

Completing the entire length in one day is possible. If you decide to do this, remember that arrangements will

have to be made for pickup at the other end. The only portion of the trail not suited to snowshoeing is where it veers onto the streets in Fergus before continuing again on the other side of town.

Level: Beginner to challenging (depending on distance covered) Season: Winter (dependent on snow conditions) Getting there: Entrance points at Elora, Belwood Lake, Orton, Hillsburgh, Erin and Cataract Cost: Free Gear: Bring your own snowshoes Other activities: Hiking, ice fishing, cross-country skiing, horseback riding For more: Trailway Association: trailway.org

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www.adventuramag.ca

Hiking is something most people associate with the fairer seasons, but winter hiking can be just as much fun – and a better workout. The hike from Ottawa to Carleton Place will take the better part of a full day, especially with the shorter winter daylight hours.

There are a few different entrance points to the OttawaCarleton Trailway, one being from Ottawa on the National Capital Commission (NCC) paved pathway that leads to the Ottawa River Pathway, which then connects to the Watts Creek Pathway and eventually winds its way along the forested Greenbelt Trail. The tiny hamlet of Stittsville is approximately nine km from this point, and the halfway point of the hike.

As with all rails-to-trails, the flat surfaces can be monotonous at times due to lack of scenery and elevation changes. However, this particular trail passes through a few small towns along the way, including Kanata and Nepean, which make for great rest and replenishment stops. As well, you’re almost guaranteed to see deer and other wildlife.

If you do the entire 50 km hike, then you’ll need to arrange a pickup in Carleton Place or catch a public transit bus back into Ottawa. The other option is to hike the Ottawa-Stittsville or Stittsville-Carleton Place sections separately as round-trip excursions.

Level: Beginner to challenging (depending on distance covered) Season: Winter Getting there: Entrance points at various locations with Ottawa and Carleton Place at either end Cost: Free Gear: Winter hiking boots Other activities: Snowshoeing, cross-country skiing For more: National Capital Commission: canadascapital.gc.ca/bins/index.asp City of Ottawa: ottawa.ca

Ski the scenic route in the Eastern Townships Activity: Backcountry skiing

By Ashley Joseph

One of the greatest advantages of living in Montreal is that after a short car ride, you can find yourself within vast expanses of lush natural scenery, peering at mountains as far as the eye can see. This landscape turns especially advantageous come winter when all of those hills are blanketed in snow, providing an abundance of ski destinations.

If you’re willing to stay buckled in your seat a little while longer (about 70 minutes from Montreal), Yamaska National Park in Quebec’s idyllic Eastern Townships has some of the best backcountry skiing the province has to offer. Trees cover most of the park’s territories, setting the stage for a highly stimulating experience.

Unmanicured trails wind through forests of red maple, pine, balsam fir and more, with cozy chalets along the way should the cold get to be too biting. With Granby only six km away, you can stop off for a tour of one of Quebec’s major tourist attractions, the Granby Zoo, on the way home.

Level: Beginner to intermediate Other activities: They also offer ice fishing on their man-made Réservoir Choinière, where yellow perch is a common catch, and snowshoeing on three marked trails of 5 km, 3 km and 2.5 km.

Gear: There’s no ski rental on site so bring your own.

Season: Dec. 1 to Mar. 31 For more: 450-776-7182 • sepaq.com/pq/yam/

© Stephen Strathdee

y

montreal

2h North of Montreal / 1 h North of Ottawa

www.upper-laurentians.com | 1 888 560.9988

WEEKEND GETAWAY © Stef Cande / Rossignol

Winter Wake-up Can a summer-sport enthusiast learn to enjoy a new season? sick of waiting for the lakes to unfreeze, the snow to melt and the thermometer to climb above zero, a winter hibernator hits the trails on a set of skis and discovers a new way to appreciate the great outdoors.

By Stephania Varalli

My three favourite sports are mountain biking, trail running and paddling.

Can you see the connection? They are outdoors – and they don’t work so well in the snow.

Considering how long Canadian winters last, it’s difficult to live here and not have anything to look forward to for the entire white-covered season. With the goal of ending my longtime practice of hibernation, I enlisted the help of a few friends who are not only summer-sport aficionados like I am, they also manage to enjoy the snow. Grudgingly, I crossed my fingers. Was there hope for a summer romantic like me?

We started with snowshoeing, which is just like walking, only more exhausting. To keep up with their pace I found myself sucking in the

freezing-cold air, which was only slightly less painful than stopping and discovering just how quickly my core temperature can drop. What’s the appeal in that? Next up: skate skiing, which is a type of cross-country that uses smaller, no-grip skis on flat, wide, groomed tracks. It roughly mimics the motions of skating – or so the instructor told me – which is another cold-weather sport that I’m not proficient at.

My attempts at capturing the technique were more convulsive than propulsive, and while my hockey-playing buddies whizzed down the trails, I calculated the shortest distance to the chalet.

Discouraged but still determined, I decided my last attempt at loving winter would take place on a classic cross-country skiing outing

at the Scenic Caves. It’s a UNESCO biosphere reserve located on the highest point of the Niagara Escarpment, with views of the city of Collingwood and Georgian Bay. Offering 20 km of groomed trails winding through a 200-year-old forest, at least the scenery, I felt, wouldn’t disappoint.

I had high hopes for the sport, based solely on a fuzzy recollection of liking cross-country skiing as a child. We went almost every weekend when I was five and six, and a handful of times after that. I still remember my parents suiting up my sister and me in layers of puffy gear, wool scarves mummy-wrapped around our heads (it was the early ’80s, before thin, warm clothes were invented, when snowsuits could rob you of your bathroom privileges). We would drive

to a local golf course that transformed each winter into a cross-country skiing playground.

The place was perfectly built for beginners, with no difficult climbs or speedy downhill sections – although every bump seemed big back then.

Whenever I gained a little momentum on a miniature hill, it felt like I was speeding down the side of Everest. And that shuffle step I was doing? That definitely felt like skiing. Holding a pole firmly in each hand, I would uselessly jam them into the surrounding snow as the planks of wood strapped to my feet inched awkwardly forward. I don’t know why I thought my 25-year hiatus from the sport would somehow improve my technique, but strapping on my rental skis at the Scenic Caves chalet, I was convinced I would be rocketing down the trails.

Continued on page 14

12 _ AdventurA _ winter 2010 _

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QUÉBEC TOUR 2011 JANUARY 21 • LONGUEUIL Pratt & Whitney Hall

JANUARY 26-27-28-29 • MONTREAL Marie-Gerin-Lajoie Hall

JANUARY 30 • QUEBEC CITY Albert-Rousseau Hall

FEBRUARY 1 • DRUMMONDVILLE Cutural Center

FEBRUARY 2 • TROIS-RIVIERES

J.-A. Thompson Hall

FEBRUARY 3 • SHERBROOKE

Maurice O'Bready Hall

FEBRUARY 5 • CHICOUTIMI Polyvalente Charles-Gravel

FEBRUARY 9 • GRANBY Le Palace

FEBRUARY 10 • ST-JEROME Andre-Prevost Hall

FEBRUARY 15 • RIMOUSKI Desjardins-Telus Hall

www.banffquebec.ca

© Stef Cande / Rossignol

PLAN AHEAD

Continued from page 12

When to go: The Scenic Caves are open for winter activities from December to the end of March, seven days a week, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The last admission pass is sold no later than 3 p.m. If you go before Dec. 31, you can get an early-season discount.

We started out around midmorning, with a plan to go until lunch. It took about 15 minutes for my delusions of cross-country prowess to be smashed. Despite all my efforts to work a rhythm, I just couldn’t get my poles and skis to do what they were supposed to. I began giving myself internal pep talks. Come on, body, you can do this. Push and glide, push and glide.

I was pushing so hard that my arms and lungs were ready to quit, and still my friends were pulling away from me. I had never found my summer sports this frustrating, but maybe that’s because I’m actually good at them.

What to bring: For an adult, a weekend, full-day cross-country trail pass with equipment rental costs $36. You can save with half-day rentals or weekday visits. For $10 more (and a reservation 48 hours in advance), beginners can benefit from a 30-minute introductory lesson. Classic cross-country and skate-ski rentals are available, both including the shoes, but you’re responsible for the rest. Dress for the weather in insulating layers, starting with a sweat-wicking synthetic, then a warm mid-layer and finally a waterproof jacket. Cross-country ski pants have a slimmer fit than downhill, but if you’re just testing the sport out, either will work.

What to eat: Even at a slow pace you’ll be burning upwards of 500 calories an hour, so pack some trail snacks to keep your energy up.

When you’re back at the chalet, choose from their selection of tummy-warming treats, like chili or hot apple cider.

For more: Go to sceniccaves.com/winter for up-to-date trail reports, local weather links, trail map, directions and a full listing of rates for adults, children and groups. There’s also information on snowshoeing at the Scenic Caves, including rates for rentals and trail passes.

14 _ Adventura _ winter 2010 _

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And then it hit me: Stop trying so hard. Now completely alone on the trail, I told myself to forget about catching up. To stop worrying about whether my cross-country stride was correct and start enjoying this fresh view of nature.

If summer was all about speed and skill, winter was going to be about fun. I took in a slow breath of crisp air. I checked out the scenery. I let

ParcsQuebec_PubAdventuraHiver11:Layout 1 10/7/10 1:57 PM Page 1

At the right place At the right time

Photos : Mathieu Dupuis

my body take over from my brain, and for a brief moment I actually had the technique. Push, glide. Push, glide. It was like floating over the snow. This was a whole new kind of elation. Unlike my progress in sports like mountain biking, where I’m perfecting a skill set I’ve been working on for years, figuring out cross-country skiing was entirely new.

The final test: A hill that was, in my accurate adult estimation, about as high as Everest. From my perch at the crest I could see there was a curve at the bottom just waiting to launch me into a snowy thicket. I used my “don’t think, just go” method of attack, and managed to stick to the grooves and remain upright all the way around the corner, where my group of speedy friends were waiting for me.

“Hey, you didn’t fall!”

“I know. It’s amazing,” I replied. I might never be as good at winter sports, but I can still enjoy teaching my body a new trick or two. Imagine how incredible it will feel when I finally figure out skate skiing.

Québec’s national parks In the cozy atmosphere of a cabin, a hut, a rustic shelter or a yurt, rediscover the simple pleasure of sharing memorable moments with friends. Located in the heart of nature, these accommodations offer you the assurance of an extraordinary stay where time passes at a different pace…

Hut Starting at

Rustic shelter

18

$

90 Yurt $ 127 Cabin $ 160

Starting at

.50

/night/person

Taxes and park entry fee not included

Learn about our baggage transport service and consult our snow conditions at: www.parcsquebec.com.

1 800 665-6527 • www.parcsquebec.com

$

*

Starting at

Starting at

* Price per night for 4 people Taxes and park entry fee not included

*

*

T N O M T A E R G A E B L DECEMBER WIL .

S T S IA S U H T N E S R O O D T FOR OU

429 other models in store

72 other models in store

ONTH

OPENING IN DECEMBER AT OTTAWA TRAIN YARDS

SAIL’S brAnd-new outdoorS SuperStore is opening in December at the Ottawa Train Yards.

Be it for fishing, hunting, camping, canoeing or pretty much any other way that you enjoy the great outdoors, SAIL is one of the biggest outdoors equipment and apparel stores in Canada.

Be sure not to miss the grand opening sale!

225 other models in store

189 other models in store

© Dmitriy Shironosov

© Christian Wheatley

As the mercury sinks, snow starts to fly and lakes freeze over. Rather than going into hibernation, jump into winter feet first with a little outdoor activity to get the blood moving. Beat the chill at these accessible getaways – flex your muscles, commune with nature and then unwind with good food and pampering. Take a loved one, or go on your own and truly celebrate the season. By Maureen Littlejohn

OUTAOUAIS

© Auberge Couleurs de France

Between Ottawa and Montreal, the Outaouais beckons with snowy adventure in the winter months. More than 400 km of trails through parks, preserves and backcountry corners attract cross-country skiers and snowshoers to strike out in the region’s fluffy white stuff when the temperature drops. A variety of groomed and ungroomed routes serve every level of expertise. In particular, the 1,628-sq-km Réserve faunique de Papineau-Labelle draws winter wanderers for its varied terrain (flat, rolling and mountainous), lack of crowds and scenic landscape. Traverse the most southerly wildlife reserve in Quebec and white-tailed deer or the occasional moose might even cross your path.

around 150 km west of Montreal, overlooks Little Lake Preston and is surrounded by 250 acres of dense forest. The log lodge has 20 rooms, 16 with whirlpool tubs and fireplaces. Curl up by the hearth in the communal lounge or check the grounds for curious deer wanting a peek at new visitors. After a day on the trails, melt tight muscles with a hot-stone massage at the Auberge’s spa ($89/60 min.), sweat out the knots in the sauna or lean back and gaze at the stars in the steaming, outdoor Nordic pool with cascading waterfall.

Eat The Auberge offers its own family-style restaurant with communal tables and an ever-changing menu highlighting the cuisine of France and Quebec.

Locally produced bison, deer, lamb, duck, salmon and chicken are featured, as well as fresh vegetables and fruits (three-course table d’hôte from $27).

Breakfast includes hot eggs and bacon and a cold buffet with fruit and cheeses ($10). While out and about, think about popping into the town of Saint-André-Avellin. Le Café du Bistrot is a local favourite and dishes up a delectable variety of appetizers such as prosciutto and melon or smoked beef tortillas, entrées including tender filet mignon and Atlantic salmon, and decadent chocolate mousse (mains from $20 • cafedubistrot.com • 819-983-3966).

Play

R&R Auberge Couleurs de France (rooms from $129 • chaletcouleursdefrance.com • 819-743-5878), an hour-and-a-half’s drive northeast of Ottawa and

CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING – 10 km of wooded trails divided into six loops dissect the inn’s surrounding maple and pine forest. Rent equipment at the Auberge ($20). The Réserve faunique de Papineau-Labelle’s 100 km of ungroomed ski trails lure intrepid Nordic skiers for backcountry adventure (sepaq.com • 819-454-2011 ext. 33). The Centre touristique La Petite Rouge’s 25 km of groomed, marked trails include 8 km for skate-skiing ($8 for day pass, $15 for ski rental • petiterouge.com • 819-426-2191).

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SNOWSHOEING – Explore the wilds around the Auberge or head to Réserve faunique de Papineau-Labelle for almost limitless trekking through a winter wonderland.

Rentals are available at the Auberge ($15). Centre touristique La Petite Rouge also offers three snowshoe trails that total 5 km ($8 day pass).

WALTER’S FALLS

Rolling hills, forests and meandering trails distinguish Grey County and the countryside around Walter’s Falls, a tiny hamlet between Owen Sound and Collingwood. The county, a two-hour’s drive north of Toronto, owns 8,340 acres of forest and maintains most of it for winter usage. Buckle on some cross-country skis or strap on a pair of snowshoes to get up close and personal with the region’s highland and lowland woods. Look up and you’ll see an abundance of waterfalls splashing down from the craggy outcroppings of the Niagara Escarpment. In winter, most of these form icy sculptures that can be seen from easily accessible trails. Go to visitgrey.ca for a list of trails and maps.

R&R The Falls Inn & Spa in Walter’s Falls (from $150 • thefallsinn.com • 519-794-4388, 1-866-204-0814) is a modern tribute to days gone by. Built on the site of a sawmill that operated for 153 years, the inn showcases the fine hardwoods once produced there. After a fire in 1983, the sawmill was rebuilt on another property on the edge of town. The inn, which has 15 guest rooms, opened in 2005 and is operated by innkeepers Meg and Dwayne Hallman. Historic photos hang from the walls, thick duvets cover pillow-top mattresses, heated tiles warm cold tootsies in the bathrooms and high-speed Internet is available for guests who need to stay connected. Pamper yourself in the spa after your outdoor adventures with an invigorating organic coffee scrub ($85/60 min.) followed by a relaxing Swedish massage ($85/60 min.).

R&R

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Surrounded on three sides by 60 acres of forest, the Westwind Inn (rooms from $150 • westwindinn.net • 1-800-387-8100) has stunning views over Buckhorn Lake. In winter, 1,200 feet of frozen shoreline lead to a ready-made skating rink. A woodsy retreat with cedarlined walls and displays of antique skis, the inn offers 35 rooms, all with fireplaces and some with Jacuzzi tubs. Amenities include complimentary coffee, tea and Wi-Fi. After a day on the snowy trails, hop in the hot tub, unwind in the sauna or have the inn arrange an appointment with a massage therapist to work out your kinks. (Massage $95/60 min.)

CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING – Groomed trails wind through the woods on the Westwind property, and equipment is available to guests free of charge. The 15,268-hectare Kawartha Nordic Ski Club, located adjacent to Highway 28 between Haultain and Apsley, Ont., has 34 km of classic trails and 13.5 km of skating trails ($15/day pass • kawarthanordic.ca) while Silent Lake Provincial Park has 40 km of track-set trails and eight km of skate trails ($9/day pass • ontarioparks.com • 613-339-2807). Other destinations include Emily Provincial Park ($9 day pass • ontarioparks.com • 705-799-5170) and Ken Reid Conservation Area with several ungroomed trails (kawarthaconservation.com • 705-328-2271). Rent equipment at Wildrock Outfitters in Peterborough, Ont. ($25/ skis, boots, poles • wildrock.net • 1-888-945-3762).

© Falls Inn & Spa in Walter’s Falls

Eat

Eat The Falls View dining room is an intimate 70-seat space with a warm, welcoming fireplace. Local flavours prevail and the dinner menu could include grilled Provimi veal chop, mustard-crusted rack of lamb or a triple-A New York strip loin topped with Roquefort butter (mains from $25). Linger later in the Sawmill Pub over a single malt or local brew. If you’re up for a drive, head into Owen Sound for a taste of eclectic Asian cuisine at the Rocky Raccoon Café (mains from $20 • rockyraccooncafe • 519-374-0500). Try local fish, elk, bison, lamb and chicken, as well as organic vegetables, cheeses and wines from the café’s 100-Mile Diet-inspired menu. Dinner entrées include beef vindaloo, Ontario lamb curry and Georgian Bay whitefish with dill mango tartar sauce. Freshly baked pie topped with Mapleton’s organic ice cream makes for a happy ending.

Play CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING – The groomed, 10-km Massie Hills Trail can be accessed near Owen Sound and is

maintained by the Owen Sound Cross-Country Ski Club. It has four easy to intermediate loops, one with a fast downhill, hairpin turn (owensound.org • 519-376-8046). Allan Park’s 15 km of track-set trails between Hanover and Durham skirt a large pond and wind through 162 hectares of rolling hills (brucegreytrails.com • 519-364-1255). Glide by sugar maples, beeches and oaks atop the Niagara Escarpment at Scenic Caves Nordic Centre, near Collingwood ($18/day trail pass • sceniccaves.com • 705-446-0256 ext. 227/ ext. 223). Rentals on site ($36/equipment and trail pass).

Advanced backcountry skiers find challenging runs at Kolapore Uplands (brucegreytrails.com • 519-374-1933).

Purchase a trail map for $3 at Ravenna General Store on Grey Road 2.

SNOWSHOEING – Most cross-country locations also offer snowshoeing. At Bognor Marsh Management Area, 4 km of trails wind through pasture and along boardwalks over the marsh. An old switchback road leads to the top of the Niagara Escarpment (brucegreytrails.com • 519-376-3076). At Scenic Caves, you can trek across Ontario’s longest suspension footbridge. Rentals available on site ($31/equipment and trail pass).

SKATING – Lace up your skates and head to the 40-hectare Harrison Park in Owen Sound, where the Good Cheer outdoor artificial ice rink is open to pleasure skaters on even-numbered days (free • owensoundtourism.com • 1-888-675-5555).

Enjoy a country-casual meal at the inn’s Treetops Dining Room while looking out on the lake through walls of windows. An inviting fire in the room’s central hearth and pine antiques enhance delicious dinners.

Starters such as baked brie with sour cherry and wild berry compote are followed by entrées including grilled tuna steak or steak/shrimp surf ’n’ turf (mains from $20). VQA wines and luscious desserts complete the meal. Plentiful breakfasts include fresh juice, fruit, cereal, eggs, pancakes, sausage, peameal bacon and French toast. In nearby Bobcaygeon, Just for the Halibut Grillhouse is famed for its battered or barbecued halibut (mains from $14 • justforthehalibut.ca • 705-738-4545). The homey eatery also serves juicy steaks, burgers and 10-oz. porterhouse pork chops.

Wash your meal down with Bobcaygeon Lock 32 lager, exclusive to the restaurant, then dip into a sinful dessert such as triple-chocolate caramel pie, hotfudge lava cake or Snickers pie.

SNOWSHOEING – The quiet wilderness around the Westwind Inn offers plenty of snowshoeing options. Borrow the inn’s equipment for free if you’ve forgotten your own.

Kawartha Nordic Ski Club’s new 10-km snowshoe trail offers spectacular beauty as it loops through Canadian Shield terrain. Backcountry options include Petroglyphs Provincial Park and Silent Lake Provincial Park. Go to Wild Rock Outfitters for rentals ($15/day).

SKATING – In front of the Westwind Inn, the frozen lake is cleared of snow regularly, revealing a natural rink ready for silver blades. There is also public skating at Bobcaygeon Arena on Sunday afternoons, 1-2:30 p.m. ($2.15 admission • city.kawarthalakes.on.ca • 613-738-3331) and outdoors at the town’s Tommy Anderson Park rink (free • city.kawarthalakes.on.ca • 705-324-9411).

Present your GATINEAU PARK 2010–2011 CROSS-COUNTRY SKI SEASON PASS to receive 20% OFF NORDIC BATHS MONDAY TO THURSDAY LENORDIK.COM FOR DETAILS + LIMITATIONS

YOUR "APRÈS-SKI" RELAXATION GETAWAY AT THE ENTRANCE TO GATINEAU PARK

© Westwind Inn

KAWARTHAS

Two hours’ drive northeast of Toronto, towering pines, pink granite rock and an interconnected lake system mark a region that abounds in wintery activities. The area known as the Kawarthas teems with wildlife, winding trails for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing, and smooth, icy, lake-top surfaces for skating.

Visitors to the snow-blanketed woods of the Kawarthas’ provincial parks, conservation areas and preserves delight in swooshing over trails and are often treated to glimpses of deer, fox and raccoons.

GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE LENORDIK.COM AT

16, CHEMIN NORDIK OLD CHELSEA (QC)

T 819 827.1111 1 866 575.3700

AdventurA _ winter 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 19

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK 9 AM TO 10 PM

Banff

Text and photos by Varial

20 _ AdventurA _ winter 2010 _

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“Anyone in there? Anybody hurt?”

I wriggle around, pull myself halfway out of my sleeping bag, unzip my tent, put my head outside, get showered with a centimetre of snow on my neck and put a face to this voice that has come out of nowhere. A second face appears and my stupefied glance finally falls on the reassuring and familiar mug of a big dog. The three are smiling at me. I smile back. I immediately notice their flashy red jackets, their walkie-talkies, their beards and realize that we will soon become the subjects of a story that will be told all winter long…

I’ve known Mathieu forever. He is my cousin, a blood brother seven years my junior. We can be quiet together for hours on end, yet understand each other better than anyone else. We’re in the very middle of Banff National Park, at an altitude of 2,457 metres. It’s -18oC degrees in the tent. We have spent the past two hours bundled in our sleeping bags, warming our feet and bodies with a litre of tea.

The day was long. Rough, but grandiose.

Over a game of cards, we recall the day’s highlights, remember the best turns, the scary moments, the moments of suffering and fatigue, and we revel in the amazing sensations of the ride on what is known as the world’s best snow. We’ve been alone in this picturesque decor for two days now, in a remote area six hours away from the ski resort. Obviously, we never expected someone to interrupt our game of cards.

– Any injuries?

with penetrating the freezing-cold boot.

Ten minutes per foot, with (every single time) a foot in the snow to stay upright.

And I’m not exaggerating when I say that we sometimes had to use the gas heater to soften them…

We know what’s on the day’s agenda, having located it during our half-day hike the day before. We leave the last chairlift at Sunshine Village around 11 a.m., walk in a zigzag pattern and ski for five hours, with 20-kg packs on our backs, until we find this precise spot that would become our base camp for three days and two nights. From there, we locate three peaks.

What’s off-trail skiing? It’s two to three hours of hiking – sometimes more – for five to 10 minutes of skiing. But those five minutes are worth an entire week of skiing on crappy snow. Any skier that skis in these conditions will gush about reaping the rewards, the joy of riding on virgin snow – the arduous process of getting there is rarely mentioned.

Climbing is something else entirely: It’s discovery, appreciation of the absolute and of sheer endurance. The satisfaction of finding your pace, passing that ridge or that pine tree you’d set as a goal, breathing air that’s fresh and invigorating, and arriving with your friends at the summit, completely alone in the world.

We’ve heard of many skiers who think that hiking is an aberration when a chairlift is available. But off-trail skiing is travel; it’s about the adventure. The chairlift is for days off.

– No. We’re OK. – Is that your avalanche?

I feel his index finger pointing under his mitten, which is directed at a 40-metre by 500-metre area overlooking our campsite.

- Umm… yes, I say, hesitating between pride and embarrassment.

That morning – like every morning under these circumstances – was pretty comical.

The inside of the tent, our bags and all our gear are covered by a centimetre of frozen condensation. My thermometer watch, hung on a string next to a tired lantern, reads 6:30 a.m. and -22oC degrees. Getting out of the sleeping bag is always the same funny story: You have to go from “sleeping in my boxer shorts” to “extreme skier” in a (shared) confined space of three square metres. It’s a scene out of a circus act, with contortions and balancing acts… even a clown or two.

Alternating between audience and actor, the process is a good half hour of hilarity.

Ah, the joy of putting on damp clothing, from the base to the top layer, just doesn’t get old! And when it comes to putting on ski boots… if there’s one thing I envy of snowboarders it’s their comfortable boots and the disconcerting ease with which they put them on.

I’m standing, but balancing between the small opening of the tent, one leg inside and one leg out, a ski boot in my hands and a foot that clearly wants nothing to do

When Mathieu passes the ridge that keeps me from seeing the rest of the slope, i am surprised to see him stop. he ponders for a good minute before turning to me. he signs an “A” with his poles.

Avalanche.

That day we met our goal of reaching three different peaks. We were even going to go above and beyond: On the way back, we pushed each other to go back to the morning’s first peak and try out a more direct route. By then it was 3 p.m. and any experienced skier (which we became more and more with every trip) will tell you that after 1 p.m., engaging in off-trail terrain is playing with fire. The warm air has reached under the snow and changed internal structures. In other words: high avalanche risk. Mathieu and I are conscious of this, but it’s so cold that day (-32oC) that we don’ think that anything can go wrong. We head straight up in an almost vertical line.

An hour and a half later we were high enough to enjoy a lovely end-of-day ride.

And there is that ridge we’d spotted that very morning. The idea of hitting it at full

speed – followed by a lovely 20-metre flight – had secretly tempted both of us.

Off-trail skiing has a certain safety ritual: You climb in short bursts, one at a time.

When you stop, you shield yourself from an eventual avalanche. Some say that it’s more dangerous to be in pairs. On one hand, there is less risk in triggering an avalanche when there are six or eight people. Skiing first is also a question of emotion, because there’s always the risk of an avalanche at any given movement.

It’s generally the person who is most confident who goes first.

Our gear folded and put away in our backpacks, we take a few minutes to analyze the lines, pinpoint the spot where the first will stop as well as locate escape routes. I’ll never understand this human desire to scream in moments of sheer joy, when the adrenaline is rushing, but I can still hear Mathieu’s voice resonating after the first turns on 50 cm of fresh powder, ultra-wide skis and 800 m of riding.

When Mathieu passes the ridge that keeps me from seeing the rest of the slope, I am surprised to see him stop. He ponders for a good minute before turning to me. With the distance that separates us, it’s futile to yell: I hear nothing. He signs an “A” with his poles. Avalanche.

The ridge where he has stopped collapsed under him. A few moments later he continues his route and is out of my sight. Once again, he signs to me with his poles to go straight after the ridge, in his direction.

I start the run, carefree, and take a few big turns and get ready to jump the ridge, to add a few jumps to my turns. Upon landing, I find his avalanche. “Tiny,” I tell myself. It’s barely the length of his skis. At the end of a 90-degree turn lying in the snow, I’m once again on virgin powder. What a pleasure to get back into this snow over about 20 metres. I’ve already started my next turn when my subconscious wakes up. I provoked an avalanche, too.

Ruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuun!”

I turn around mid-turn to see the extent of the damage and realize that I only have one chance to get out of it: Go straight.

It’s in those moments that I appreciate my 197-cm skis that are 190 mm wide.

Because even if I had two hydroplaning buoys strapped onto my feet, the speed makes me doubt the ability of my thighs and knees to keep up. I fly into a little valley, pass my cousin and turn toward the hill. Now safe, I stop to observe the grandeur and silent beauty of a real avalanche. “My” avalanche is 40 m wide and swallowed up the entire mountain over the last 300 metres.

Mathieu completely disappears for 30 to 40 seconds in that cloud of powder that raises 15 metres over our heads, until I find him covered in white.

– Woooooooooooow!

– Yeah…

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My heart is beating just as fast. All the way back to the tent we relive the emotions and the adrenaline rush, fully aware of our luck: Being five hours’ walking distance from any human contact, seeing one’s partner buried under an avalanche is the absolute worst-case scenario.

– Where are you from? Do you know that you need authorization to ski this area?

I then realize that I have none.

– Did you know that you can’t camp in the park, and lighting a fire and cutting wood is illegal?

The night before, we spent two hours gathering dead wood from the ground. We had enough for

What really stands out about these guides is how quickly they made it to us. the next two evenings. I think that our smiles and good mood reassure our visitors immediately. Surely they see our youth – we’re a bit eager and brash, but brimming with a desire for extreme adventures. The more they enumerate the rules we had broken, the more they see the humour in the situation.

– There’s still a lot of green on this branch, he concludes with a slightly accusatory tone.

We learn that they are from Banff and were called by the Sunshine ski patrol, which had spotted our avalanche and noticed two tracks at the entrance and

22 _ Adventura _ winter 2010 _

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only one at the exit. They travelled, in two hours, the 40 km that separates Banff and Sunshine, took the gondola that goes to the most remote part of the ski area and hiked to our campsite with a dog. In two hours… when it took us five.

– Are you sleeping here tonight?

– Yes. – Okay. Stay warm; it’s going to be cold.

We watch them leave. “Guides are so nice here!” exclaims Mathieu. We had noticed this a few times in our travels throughout Canada and the United States, when getting caught in banned off-trail areas. Some – likely to impress us – would take us to areas where we’d never even dared go alone.

However, what really stands out about these guides is how quickly they made it to us. We were proud of our pace, but they had us beat five hours to two.

We didn’t understand completely until the next day. By following their snowblown tracks, we find snowmobile tracks behind a tree. Seemingly, we didn’t do that badly. And by following these tracks, it barely takes us an hour to get back to the ski area. Truth is, we weren’t nearly as far as we thought we were. And yet we felt like we were at the end of the world. That’s also what off-trail skiing is about: being where nobody else is, and feeling like you’re on another planet.

Abitibi-témiscAmingue with open arms!

Parc national d’Aiguebelle «Real comfort in the middle of nowhere»

" "

parksquebec.com • abitibi-temiscamingue-tourism.org

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Camp Coffee

test

2

no matter how far into the wilderness a caffeine junkie goes, there’s no forgoing his or her java jolt. Following our common sense (and exquisite taste!), we’ve tested five camping-friendly coffee-making devices.

4

By Mathieu Lamarre

Do note that whichever apparatus you use, your camp coffee can only be as good as the beans you choose. Also, be careful of the type of grind required for your chosen method (percolation, soaking or espresso) – a piece of information seldom mentioned in user manuals.

3

1

1 MSR MugMate The MugMate is a reusable stainless steel filter. Simply fill it with mediumground coffee beans and place directly in a mug or wide-spouted bottle; add hot water and let stand for as long as desired. The longer the soak, the stronger the coffee. It takes a bit of trial and error to fine-tune the right result, but fans of a strong, muddy potion will be delighted. When you’re finished, just rinse the filter and forget about it – any simpler and you’d have to go with instant!

Verdict: Great value for the price.

Method: soaking | 32 g | $18

2 BRunton Flip n’ DRip Despite its large, trek-unfriendly size, this new offering from Brunton caught our eye. The system uses connected reservoirs to percolate the coffee through a stainless steel filter. After heating the water in the first receptacle (a lid would be helpful in reducing boiling time), the grounds compartment and mug are screwed on top and the whole thing is flipped over for filtration – “flip and drip.” Alas, filling even medium grounds leads to unavoidable spillage (the compartment’s drip holes are too big) and infusion time is quite long (over eight minutes) in comparison to a standard drip. The supposedly see-through section is not so transparent: You risk burning yourself when removing the mug from the top part. Verdict: You’re better off with a classic espresso pot, which is just as encumbering but far less expensive.

Method: percolation | 568 g | $70

3 StaRBuckS Via ReaDy BRew Instant coffee? Aficionados will wince, but we gave it a shot nonetheless. What we have here is micro-ground coffee – Turkish-styled – and very much unlike the thick grains we’re accustomed to with good ol’ Nescafé. Fuss-free it is, but the result is nothing like the oriental specialty. Also, your choice of flavours (four, plus an ice-coffee offering) is kind of limited. Verdict: Better than your Uncle Bob’s special, but not up to par yet with the real (filtered) deal.

Method: instant coffee | weighs almost nothing | $13 for 12 packets

24 _ AdventurA _ winter 2010 _

5

4 gSi Mini eSpReSSo MakeR

5 HanDpReSSo wilD

It seems like the Mini Espresso has been on the outdoor market forever. If you know how to work your at-home espresso pot, there’s no reason why you can’t enjoy the same flavour when camping. Despite its diminutive size, the technology is tried and true, the richness of the espresso is surprising and the price is outstanding. Available in oneor two-cup models, aluminum or stainless steel finish.

Verdict: A true classic!

200 g | $20

At first glance, you might think it’s a retractable fishing rod. Once in your hands, it feels like a hefty bike pump. The Handpresso is a fascinating object that elicits “wows” from just about everyone – and produces a creamy and flavourful brew to boot. In both grounds and coffee-pod versions, it uses the pressure of the manual pump and preheated water to impress the most jaded camper. Verdict: Great stuff but again, size and weight aren’t ideal for travelling light - the price doesn’t help either.

468 g | $160

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gear

Tech It OuT Three top performers to add to your wish list.

By Alexander Joo

cOLUMBIA, Majik Wands Glove | $80 | columbia.com When you’re roughing it in winter, your digits are the first to feel the fierce bite of Mother Nature. When you need finger dexterity as much as you do ultra-warmth, these gloves – outfitted with Omni-Tech waterproof bladder and Omni-Heat thermal insulation and reflective lining – are your only resort. The super-grippy PU palm lets you manipulate your cellphone, Chapstick and zipper fly.

ERYX, Sabre SV Jacket | $500 | arcteryx.com When you’re hitting the slopes, you need a jacket that’s warm but keeps you cool and protects against the wind but keeps your arms flexible. This waterproof and windproof Gore-Tex Soft Shell jacket miraculously checks off all of those boxes while also hitting perhaps the most important one: making you look terribly fashionable when you return to the lodge.

GREGORY, Serrac 45 | $189 | gregorypacks.com For quickie overnight jaunts in the wilderness, this pack will stash your tent, sleeping bag, food and – if you’re really roughing it – iPhone, netbook and chargers. Full side and top compression keeps everything snug and immobile, while dual side mesh water bottle pockets keep you from dehydrating. The side attachment loops provide quick access for a wide variety of tools whether you’re traversing the world by ice axe or ski poles.

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GEAR

SNOW BUSINESS

By Alexander Joo

Sure, alpine skiers get the rush of adrenaline when bolting down the side of a cliff. But backcountry skiing promises more quiet nature, possible encounters with bears and a high-octane workout – without waiting in line behind a family with an all-day lift ticket pass. Just remember to get the right equipment to ensure that when you’re out in the cold, you’re not left out in the cold.

Skis/Boots/Bindings These skis are wide enough for trudging off the trails and keeping you above the powder, though outfitted with a light foam and wood core to prevent fatigue on long adventures through uncharted territories. Posigrip technology gives you extra traction when making your way uphill, and the low-profile back allows for complete turn control when you carve your way back down. Pair them with these boots and bindings that are perfect for backcountry skiers. The high, hinged Energyzer cuff offers supportive rigidity, lateral stability and ankle reinforcement; Thinsulate insulation regulates foot warmth; and fully integrated gaiter and external gaiter hook in combination with a snug lace cover keeps the snow out. Despite the array of technology to protect your feet from injuries and nature, these boots won’t hinder your walkability, which is top priority when you need to outrun Sasquatch.

SALOMON, XADV 89 Grip Skis • $287 | XADV 8 Boots • $247 | XADV Raid 09 Bindings • $80 | salomon.com

Jacket Ditch the heavy triple goose down parka; you need to go lightweight and flexible when skiing through the backcountry. Outfitted with 20 000 FEX, the “shape memory polymer” of this jacket actually adjusts based on your motion and temperature. When you’re more or less idle, the molecular structure becomes solid to keep the cold out and your body warm; and when you speed up, gaps appear between molecules, increasing permeability so moisture and body heat can escape, thus keeping you cool. With technology borrowed from the aerospace industry, this jacket’s smarter than you.

ROSSIGNOL, Gran Turismo STR Jacket | $699 | rossignol.com

Mask Blowing snow and ice storms are no match for the mystical power of ninjas – or the 150-weight fleece, smooth nylon face and brushed polyester interior of the Ninjaclava!

The multifunctional design covers your nose and face in full-coverage mode, and peels open when the sun breaks through the clouds. Wear it as a scarf, beanie, face mask, neck gaiter or whatever else fits the current climate.

OUTDOOR RESEARCH, Ninjaclava | $24 | outdoorresearch.com

Gloves Made for backcountry skiing, these gloves help to withstand severe cold weather using Pittards Atacama leather for durable water repellency, PrimaLoft One insulation for warmth, and a Boa fleece lining on the back of the hands.

Schoeller stretch woven nylon panels give flexibility and weight reduction, and leather reinforcement on thumbs and palm will make sure you wear out before these gloves do.

MEC, Blast Gloves | $89 | mec.ca

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Underlayer Part of Under Armour’s quest to be green, this shirt has fabrics made from recycled plastic bottles.

Though don’t let its granola roots fool you – when it comes to performance, you’re taken care of.

The raglan sleeve construction allows for mobility and full range of motion, while eliminating shoulder seam abrasion points when you’re digging your poles into the ice. Best of all, anti-odour technology kills odour-causing microbes before they infest your armpits.

UNDER ARMOUR, Catalyst Waffle Striped Crew | $60 | underarmour.ca

Alpine Sunglasses Oakley spent millions on research and development to come up with these goggles, anatomically engineered to fit your face and distribute force across critical zones while maximizing airflow. The O Matter Frame remains flexible even in the most extreme cold, and moisture-wicking foam balances the pressure of the strap. The interchangeable lens system ensures you always have optimal visibility, and side-to-side panoramic vision is maximized so you don’t get sideswiped by a grizzly bear.

OAKLEY, Splice Snow | $195 | ca.oakley.com

Ski Pack For longer forays into the snow, this 20-litre pack is essential for toting food, supplies, repair kits and an iPad. With a minimalist and streamlined design, it won’t hinder your motion. Most importantly, should you find yourself trapped in an avalanche, the built-in Avalung creates an artificial air pocket, letting you breathe easy while you kick around on your iPad waiting for the cavalry to arrive.

BLACK DIAMOND, Agent 20L with AvaLung | $193 | blackdiamondequipment.com

Poles Poles are crucial for feeling out the surface, giving you a push on flat areas or inclines, or as a motivational tool by way of poking your ski partner in the back of the knee. These carbon-fibre poles have a strength-to-weight ratio up to six times greater than aluminum, and have a better “feel” as they transmit more information through vibrations and shock absorption from the surface to your hand. FlickLock adjustability system lets you extend or reduce the length, even with your fat gloves still on.

BLACK DIAMOND, Pure Carbon | $105 | blackdiamondequipment.com

www.gvsnowshoes.com

How to calculate your energy requirements.

The Perfect Formula

By Mélanie Mantha and Kate Comeau, Nutritionists

Knowing what and how much to eat to keep energy levels high during even the most intense activity isn’t always easy. There is no universal formula to follow: Everyone burns calories at a different rate. However, with an understanding of a few basic facts and simple calculations, you can remove some of the guesswork in determining your personal requirements.

Before giving advice or getting into calculations, we must remember this basic principle: The food we eat doesn’t only provide energy for activities; it is also needed to maintain our body weight and for physiological functions.

Energy balance is the difference between what is consumed (food and drinks) and what is burned (vital functions and physical activities). If calories consumed outnumber calories burned, the imbalance translates into weight gain, regardless of what food was consumed in excess. The desire to lose or gain weight should not make us forget the essential balance required between energy and structural requirements.

women Weight (kg)

9,99 X

Determining daily requirements depends on several factors, including metabolism, physical activity and gender, among others. The basal metabolic rate, which is the energy that the body requires to maintain vital functions (breathing, digestion, sleep) at rest, is difficult to pinpoint precisely. In general, a balanced intake spread out over the course of the day can speed up metabolism, while aging slows the metabolism, as does eating too little.

Consuming too few calories forces the body into starvation mode, burning as few calories as possible to maintain vital functions (which explains why a diet that consists of skipping meals doesn’t always lead to weight loss).

Formula to calculate your basal metabolic rate

(1 kg = 2,2 lbs | 1 inch = 2,54 cm)

Height (cm)

Age (in years)

6,25 X

men

Weight (kg)

9,99 X

If your weight is stable and you’re enjoying a healthy, active lifestyle, you’re probably on the right track in terms of nutrition. But if you’re looking to improve your physical performance without losing body weight, there are a few facts to consider. Here are some formulas to live by.

5X

Height (cm)

Age (in years)

6,25 X

5X

161

Your basal metabolic rate is:

5

Your basal metabolic rate is :

Use the basal metabolic rate to estimate your approximate required daily caloric intake.

Basal metabolic rate

1.2 1.4 1.6 1.7 1.9

Sedentary Slightly active Moderately active Very active Extremely active

Activity index (see table below)

Your daily required energy intake (in calories) is:

Activity index Little to no exercise and office work Exercise or light sports 1 to 3 times per week Exercise or moderate sports 3 to 5 times per week Exercise or intense sports 6 to 7 times per week Exercise or intense sports or physical work daily 28 _ Adventura _ winter 2010 _

For a more precise estimate of caloric needs, multiply the basal metabolic rate by the “sedentary” activity factor (1.2) and add the number of calories burned for the activity practised (see chart below).

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© Tyler Olson

Mind & BODY

Calories burned for 30 minutes of activity according to intensity Activity Weight

lbs 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180 190 200 210

kg 50 55 59 64 68 73 77 82 86 91 96

Downhill Snowshoeing CrossRunning Rock skiing country High 9,5 km/h climbing skiing Moderate intensity High intensity 9 to 14 km/h intensity

150 163 177 190 204 218 231 245 259 272 286

200 218 236 254 272 290 308 327 345 363 381

224 245 265 286 306 327 347 367 388 408 429

250 275 295 320 340 365 385 410 430 455 480

299 327 354 381 408 435 463 490 517 544 571

Hunger: Mind over Stomach

Now that we have a good idea of how many calories we should be consuming, we’re left with the tricky part: managing desire. It really comes down to listening to the signals of hunger and fullness being sent by the body.

Young children are masters at this: They know instinctively when their body needs to eat and when they can stop.

But with age, we become increasingly influenced by environmental factors – the sight of restaurants, advertising, the look and smell of food, social contexts, etc. – and it becomes more difficult to listen to our body. It takes awareness and determination to help us untangle these messages and our actions. Achieving balance is often a matter of choosing quality foods. Busy lifestyles make it tempting to satisfy our hunger with “convenience” foods. But of course these foods generally lack nutritional quality and are rich in fat, sugar and sodium. For the same amount of calories, why not choose foods from different groups that provide a variety of nutrients? More fruit, vegetables and dairy products (often neglected) as well as protein sources and fibre will satisfy hunger and physiological needs, without the not-so-good elements found in junk food. The chart below offers a comparison of less balanced and more balanced choices, according to calorie content.

Calorie content

200 300

The less balanced choice 3 tbs yogurt-covered raisins 1 croissant + jam

400

190 small jelly beans

500

2 small slices of all-dressed pizza 2 cups pasta with alfredo sauce

600

The balanced choice 4 tbs raisins + 100 g yogurt bagel + 30 g of cheese + 1 applesauce cup 1/2

1 chicken tortilla + 30 g of cheese + 1 yogurt + 1 fruit Tuna sandwich + 8-10 crackers + 60 g hummus + dried fruit bar 2 cups whole wheat pasta with tomato and vegetable sauce + 90 g of chicken + 1 vegetable juice + 1 cup frozen yogurt Adventura _ winter 2010 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 29

© christianlevesque.com

Last call

Sunrise in ancient Guatemala If you want to watch the sun rise from atop the 70-metre-high pyramid at Temple IV in Tikal, Guatemala, you first have to strike a deal with the park’s guards (yes, those heavily armed men). And know this: They are not legally allowed to let you in early (hence the unpredictable entrance fee that depends solely on their mood!). If you’re lucky, the departure is at four o’clock in the morning (two hours before the park’s official opening) and you’ll be guided through the jungle to the base of the pyramid to the sound of Black Howlers (or Alouatta pigra: a species of howler monkey) and jaguars. Without question, the experience is worth the price: The mystical Mayan power overwhelms in this grandiose setting. Magical, especially when the weather cooperates.

THE TOOLS: NIKON D200, ISO 100, f/22 @ 28mm, 8 seconds.

- Christian Lévesque, photographer

30 _ Adventura _ winter 2010 _

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