Adventura / Winter 2013 by Espaces

GREAT

WINTER TRIPS La TraversĂŠe de Charlevoix Jacques-Cartier National Park Frontenac Provincial Park

XP Antarctik

Facing the Ultimate Continent

Chile A Trek to the Edge of the World VOL. 5, NO. 4

[ GEAR ]

Sock It to Me Less Heavy, More Heat

| WINTER 2013 | free | adventuramag.ca

Camp Mercier, Réserve faunique des Laurentides

With energy driven by 400 years of history, Québec City offers thrills and delights under its thick blanket of snow… the extravagance of a festival or the feverish frenzy of a carnival. There’s something exciting to do every minute of every day. With urban charm flanked by spectacular mountains, Québec City has mastered the art of good living with a Nordic flavour. Its vast plains are often turned into a playground, and nearby snowcapped massifs become paradise for winter sports lovers.

TAKE A FRONT-ROW SEAT TO WINTER’S SPLENDOUR.

Philippe Jobin

DOWN HILL

PoRtneUF ReGion A few steps from Québec City, jump into your snowshoes or put on your cross-country skis and get ready to experience a refreshing winter! Here, the snow is perfectly white, the chalets and yurts are comfortable, and the playground is never-ending. The Vallée Bras-du-Nord and the Parc naturel regional de Portneuf offers you winter, pure and simple! ¤ portneuf.com

Québec 1-877-783-1608 QuebecRegion.com

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Ski Stoneham & mont-Sainte-anne Located only 30 minutes away from fabulous Québec City, the resorts offer exceptional snow conditions and 110 runs (68 at MSA and 42 at Stoneham) for all skill levels. The Québec City area is renowned all around the East as a snow destination with abundant natural snowfalls, in addition to the quality of their grooming. Both resorts are also claimed for their amazing night skiing. ¤ ski-stoneham.com / mont-sainte-anne.com

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ANTICIPATION ///EDITOR’S NOTE

In the fall, at the first sight of the leaves changing colours, I start looking forward to my first ski turns. While moroseness begins to overwhelm the coldfearing and winter-hating folks among us, I start peering outside feverishly in the hopes of catching a glimpse of the first falling snowflakes. According to meteorologists, there is a “powder cycle.” Technically, that’s not really what they call it, but that’s what I remember. Every five to seven years, the North American skies are filled with precipitation and we get dumped on more than usual. According to prognostications, last year was supposed to be the year but, alas, things were pretty calm. So my expectation that it’s going to happen this year? Very high. In fact, as you’re reading these lines, I hope that I’m far from my office and on a ski slope or cross-country trail, re-enacting our cover image. Just looking at that photo makes my legs yearn for the forest and my lungs crave that fresh wintery air

that feels so great – with snow falling gently, for good measure! For now, I’m indoors and daydreaming about those first turns. The purity of snow fallen freshly the night before. The joy of finding untouched powder. The climb with skins to find the perfect line where very few people will ever venture. I can’t wait for these blissful moments where negative thoughts don’t exist and spam can’t reach me. Pure pleasure! Typically, our first snowstorm hits in November or early December. But Sept-Îles has seen snow in mid-October (1974) and, incidentally, holds the record for the snowiest winter in Quebec with a whopping 762 cm in 1968–1969. For Montrealers who don’t like to shovel, know that the city receives the least amount of snow in the province, with an average of 218 centimetres (and as little as 93 cm in 1979–1980!). Of course, that’s a great reason to leave the city as soon as possible if you want to enjoy the snow! And the first snowstorm in the metropolis tends to

happen a bit later, around December 17 on average. In 1980, the city waited until March 14 for its first official storm (defined as an accumulation of at least 15 cm). Terrible! There are many inspiring stories in this issue. The idea is to make you want to go out and enjoy the beautiful season that’s beginning. Being active is the ultimate antidote to the wintertime blues: Stop thinking, procrastinating and worrying and get out there! Summer is lovely. Fall is magnificent. Winter is far from being a dead season! To enjoy moments of bliss all season long, all you have to do is create the occasions. Chris Levesque, Editor @chrislevesque

CONTENT 04 EDITOR’S NOTE

22 GLOBETROTTER Chile: A Trek to the Edge of the World

06 FIELD REPORT

12 SOMETHING TO CHEER FOR AT THE WINTER OLYMPICS 14 XP ANTARCTIK: FACING THE ULTIMATE CONTINENT

18 Parks: Jacques-Cartier National Park • Frontenac Provincial Park

MIND & BODY 28 ARE YOU SAD? Seasonal affective disorder (SAD) is a mild depression that starts in September when the days become shorter. It’s estimated that from six to 20 percent of the population suffers from this condition.

20 LIVING LARGE

30 LAST CALL

16 WEEKEND GETAWAY La Traversée de Charlevoix

GEAR 24 Sock It to Me 26 Less Heavy, More Heat

10 DAYTRIPPER

Winter 2013 :: Vol. 5 :: No. 4 PUBLISHER: Stéphane Corbeil (stephane.corbeil@adventuramag.ca) EDITOR: Chris Levesque (christian.levesque@adventuramag.ca) SENIOR EDITOR: Stephania Varalli | stephania.varalli@adventuramag.ca CONTRIBUTORS: Matt Colautti, Bryen Dunn, Patrice Halley, Ilona Kauremszky, Shelagh McNally, Travis Persaud, Antoine Stab, Kristy Strauss.

PROOFREADER: Christopher Korchin TRANSLATOR: Christine Laroche COVER PHOTO: Aaron Gulley and Amy Jordan skin up Big Tesuque while

backcountry skiing through an aspen grove in the Sangre DeCristo Mountains near Santa Fe, New Mexico. @ Jen Judge / Aurora Photos

ADVERTISING:

Vincent Cloutier, S ales Manager / vcloutier@groupeserdy.com / 450 672-0052, ext. 401 Jon Marcotte, Publications sales / jmarcotte@espaces.ca / 450 672-0052, ext. 426 David Mene, Publications sales / dmene@espaces.ca / 450 672-0052, ext. 428

Joanne Bond, Publications sales coordinator / jbond@espaces.ca / 450 672-0052, ext. 430

DESIGN: Sève Création, seve.ca WEBSITE: www.adventuramag.ca EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT: 450 672-0052 ext. 422 / info@adventuramag.ca MAILING ADDRESS: Groupe Espaces Inc 6 Desaulniers Blvd, office 500 Saint-Lambert (Québec) J4P 1L3 info@espaces.ca

CIRCULATION: 60,000 copies distributed to outdoor enthusiasts everywhere. ADVENTURA is published four times a year by Groupe Espaces Inc., a division of Serdy Media

ARTICLE SUBMISSIONS: ADVENTURA welcomes editorial and photo submissions,

which must be sent by e-mail only. Contact the Editor to discuss. ADVENTURA is not responsible for articles, photographs or any other material sent to its attention. If you do not keep a copy of ADVENTURA magazine for your personal archives, please give it to a friend or recycle it.The opinions expressed are those of the authors and are not necessarily shared by Groupe Espaces Inc. Some of the activities reported on in ADVENTURA could entail injury risks for anyone engaging in them. ADVENTURA and its reporters, contributors, photographers and other staff members do not recommend the practice of these activities by anyone who does not have the required skills and technique. ADVENTURA is not responsible for the information contained in advertisements. Any reproduction of material published in ADVENTURA is prohibited without the expressed consent of Groupe Espaces Inc.

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FIELD REPORT

TECH SUPPORT BY KRISTY STRAUSS

DOES YOUR WORKOUT ROUTINE NEED A LITTLE HELP? THESE HANDY APPS CAN BE YOUR SECRET TO REACHING YOUR REAL-LIFE FITNESS GOALS. WHETHER YOU’RE AN IPHONE, ANDROID OR BLACKBERRY USER, GET YOUR DEVICE LOADED WITH THE VIRTUAL BOOST YOU NEED TO GET YOU OFF THE COUCH – AND INTO SHAPE.

REEBOK FITNESS APP Users can create their own workout program with this free app that works with both Apple and Android platforms. The Reebok Fitness app gives you a customized workout program based on your favourite activities and helps users switch up their routine. It also has a function that gives you tips from the pros, plus workout videos and demos from world-class experts. Finally, this app gives you the motivation to keep moving with whatever activity you love most – whether it’s running, walking or yoga. To start your program and learn about your options, visit reebok.com/en-ca/reebok-fitness.

ZOMBIES, RUN! Whether you’re jogging in the park or on the treadmill, you’ll want to out-run the zombies chasing after you. For $3.99 a month (or $1.99 a month for the 5K training app), this app is available on iPhone, Android and Windows Phone and turns your run into a real-life video game where you try to dodge zombies. The action-packed game includes a storyline and mixes with your own music. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert, this app is sure to make you run your fastest and farthest. To start your thrilling run, visit: zombiesrungame.com.

COUCH TO 5K If you’re new to the world of fitness and exercise and want to run your first 5K, this is the app for you. Free of charge, it works with iPhone and Android and is perfectly designed for beginner runners. The app includes different exercises and an interactive coach that helps you gradually work your way up to your first 5K, while avoiding injury along the way. To get off the couch and reach your distance goal, download the app at c25kfree.com.

6 winter 2013 adventuramag.ca

DAILYBURN You’ll have no more excuses with this app, which works with both iPhone and Android platforms. DailyBurn is free to download, and users can subscribe to fitness videos for $10 a month. Whether you’re a beginner or advanced, the videos include every workout level and different workout methods – including cardio, yoga and kickboxing. You can also bring these workouts everywhere you go, including the gym, to work or while travelling. To start your workout today and for more information, visit dailyburn.com/devices.

ENDOMONDO Track and analyze your training with Endomondo – a free app that works with Apple, Android, Windows Phone and BlackBerry. The handy GPS system helps users track how far they have travelled in their exercises, and even analyzes the data to help you train better. Its social element makes friends challenge each other, and shows the user how far others have travelled in a given amount of time through a live feed. To start tracking your progress, download the app at endomondo.com.

NIKE+ RUNNING Track your running distances, pace times as well as calories you’ve burned in this free app that works with both Apple and Android platforms. This app also gives you the motivation to keep going – with your own personal cheerleaders. It includes audio feedback and cheers from your friends as you run. In addition to your friends, you’ll also hear extra motivational feedback from Nike’s top athletes. To start training – and get cheered on along the way – visit nikeplus.nike.com/plus/products/gps_app.

Flexible Filtering:

VAPUR MICROFILTER

BY KRISTY STRAUSS

Whether you’re doing some winter camping or retreating to the cottage, the new Vapur MicroFilter will help you stay hydrated without the hassle of carrying around a separate filter. The portable, flexible, lightweight and chemical-free system uses advanced technology consisting of fibre membranes to efficiently filter clear water, whether it’s flowing from a faucet or a natural source. How well does it work? The Vapur MicroFilter safely removes more than 99 percent of water-borne bacteria and protozoan cysts – including Giardia and Cryptosporidium – that can be found in lakes, rivers and streams. You can even use it to filter water straight from the tap, if you’re not so sure about the safety of the source. Weighing in at just 75 grams, it stands at about 25 centimetres high and is roughly 14.5 centimetres wide. But don’t let the compact size fool you – the Vapur MicroFilter’s purification system can produce more than 500 litres of safe drinking water over its entire lifespan. The device is also pretty easy to figure out: Just fill it up, screw on the filter cap and drink from it immediately. The product has already been a success in the United States, where it launched earlier this year. Now available in Canada, the Vapur MicroFilter costs about $79, and is available at retailers across the country and through Vapur’s online store at vapur.ca

175 really

greaT

reasons

to visit

saguenay– Lac-sainT-Jean

OPEN SPACES

reason

Tears of graTiTude aT The end of a Trail hikers in summer and snowshoers in winter are treated to no end of wonderful trails—and wonderful views. start off at Le valinouët ski resort and climb to pic 360 (it gets its name from the 360° view) or make your way up to pic de la hutte in parc national des monts-valin for a bird’s-eye view of the region.

This year, There are 175 great reasons To visiT saguenay–Lac-sainT-Jean. a 175Th birThday ceLebraTion is a big deaL! don’T miss The parTy! 175 really great reasons to visit:

saguenaylacsaintjean.ca/175reasons photo : parc national des monts-valin, steve deschenes.

nº

FIELD REPORT

Andy O’Brien: The Man Behind the Champions BY STEPHANIA VARALLI

What do Sidney Crosby, Jason Spezza, John Tavares, Patrick Chan, Hayley Wickenheiser and Dara Torres have in common? Trainer Andy O’Brien, president of O’Brien Sport and Humandynamix Health and Wellness. He’s one of the industry’s most respected and sought-after experts. Based in Calgary, he has spent more than 16 years working with the world’s best: over 100 professional and 30 Olympic athletes, who have earned among them five major-sport MVPs, 40 world championships and 22 Olympic medals. We caught up with Andy while he was promoting the new Sidney Crosby SC87 collection from Reebok, to ask him about the secrets to his training success. Do you see anything in common between your most successful athletes? All the really elite athletes I’ve worked with – Sidney Crosby, Hayley Wickenheiser, Dara Torres – the three of them are very similar. They’re just intensely competitive. They are constantly motivated by their performance, and by winning. There are some athletes that will only go so far with their work ethic, they’ll only go so far with their commitment, and then it’s just not worth it for them. For people who are at the top level, like Sidney, there’s no level of work or commitment that’s too much. It’s just whatever it takes. They’re all in. You’ve worked with NHL superstar Sidney Crosby since he was 13 years old. How much of his success is nature, versus nurture? I honestly think it’s about 80/20: 80 percent nature, 20 percent nurture. There are so many inherent 8 winter 2013 adventuramag.ca

and genetic characteristics that influence the way somebody learns: the neurochemistry, the biochemistry, the physiology that they’re born with – it has so much influence. That being said, that 20 percent is extremely important. Taking an athlete, like Sidney, without all of the training and development that he’s done over the years, he’s not going to have that same level of success. The 20 percent that wavers is extremely significant, and at that level of sport has a massive influence on your performance. You helped 12-time Olympic medalist Dara Torres make one of the most incredible comebacks in swimming history at the age of 41. Was age a factor in her training? She competed at 41, but she was 39 when I met her. In her case, age was a huge factor. We had to do three-quarters of the volume of what she’d done when she was a younger athlete, and we had to approach of all her training differently. A lot of the loading exercises that you would do as a younger athlete with healthy joints, we had to be very conscious of, because her joints had sustained significant injury over the years; they had some wear and tear, and she didn’t recover quite as fast. We had to be very creative to find ways to enhance her recovery: nutrition, supplementation, massage techniques, different kinds of stretching techniques to improve flexibility. Her age was always a factor, but it was really encouraging to see that it was a factor that was overcome with the right types of support. And it ultimately all started with her belief in herself.

Can athletes achieve the same results with less training volume? There’s an old school of thought that the more you do, the better you’re going to be, so if you do 100 hours that’s better than someone that’s doing 80, and that’s just not the case. There’s an appropriate amount of stimulus, and there’s an appropriate amount of recovery. People believe that with the training stimulus, more is better and your body automatically recovers and adapts, but your body doesn’t automatically recover and adapt, and there’s no question that if the volume is too heavy, you can actually do more harm than good. A lot of times you get short-term success with quantity over quality, and that causes people to believe that it can be successful long-term, but it’s just unsustainable. Do you have any training advice for all of us normal athletes? Most of the time when people go to the gym, they do what’s most familiar to them – whether that’s running on a treadmill or doing certain types of exercises – and their body just doesn’t become stimulated by that because it’s something that it already knows how to do. It’s really important to put your body into a state of learning, because that’s where a lot of the adaptive response comes from. So, instead of going through that same old routine, get outside of the box and produce that new neurological stimulus that’s going to allow your body to adapt. And part of that includes the quality of the movement, because your body will always find a way to revert to what it is most comfortable doing. When you’re doing things technically correct, it’s going to force certain muscles to engage that don’t want to engage; it’s going to force certain joints to move through ranges of motion that are slightly uncomfortable; it’s going to force your neurological system to do things that it doesn’t typically want to do, and that’s where the adaptive response comes from. So, the key take-home: Go to the gym, and do some new things, but learn how to do them properly. How much does having the right equipment make a difference? It makes a big difference. In the training that we do, we do a lot of agility work and a lot of speed work, so we’re doing a lot of stopping and starting, and a lot of cutting and turning, and there’s a constant discussion between me and my athletes about the right types of shoes. The same thing applies when lifting. Few people know that when you’re at the gym, you may not want to use a runner when you’re lifting because it’s very soft, and if you have an uneven weight distribution, that can affect the alignment of your hips and spine. For apparel, freedom of movement becomes so important. Because the clothing that Reebok is making has so much research and design to allow your body to move, it’s really appropriate from a training perspective.

QUEBEC CITY: HOST OF THE FIRST OFFICIAL ITU WINTER TRIATHLON

BY BRYEN DUNN

The International Triathlon Union (ITU) has confirmed that Quebec City will host the world premiere of the new ITU Winter Triathlon on March 8 and 9, 2014. It’s taking place on the historic site (how appropriate) of the Plains of Abraham. As with a regular triathlon, the sport includes three disciplines that must be completed one after the other, but instead of swimming, biking and running, participants will snowshoe (5K), speed skate (12K) and ski (8K), for a total of 25K. The Triathlon is part of the 10th anniversary of the five-discipline Pentathlon des Neiges. “We expect about 300 to 500 enthusiasts will try to become the first-ever winner of the new Winter Triathlon,” says François Calletta, general manager of the Pentathlon des Neiges, “Or at least they can say they were part of the world premiere.” Most of the participants in the Triathlon will be competing in the competition’s Age Group category, open to all. On the Elite side, there are no pre-qualified participants – qualification will be based on past performance in other sports, and a maximum time to complete the race of 90 minutes. Calletta expects about 40 to 60 athletes in each of the elite races. There’s also a Paratriathlon category that involves concept-snowshoe, luge-skating, and skiing, and for those up for the challenge, there are packages that would allow entrants to participate in the shortand long-distance pentathlons on the first weekend, and the triathlon on the final weekend. The ITU is working to develop the Winter Triathlon in hopes that it will one day be included in the Winter Olympics, and it was this goal that determined which three of the Pentathlon disciplines were chosen to be part of the triathlon. According to Calletta, “Biking and running have no Winter Olympics potential, whereas snowshoeing, skating and skiing either are already part of the Games or have the potential to be.” The ITU already has about 15 countries that have shown interest in participating, and the goal would then be to build a racing circuit that would allow for a World Cup and World Championship competition, growing the sport in visibility and participants. Calletta divulged, “We should announce the European premiere on the day following the world premiere in Quebec City.” The event is already attracting attention, thanks to the high-profile athletes involved. Six-time biathlon World Cup medalist René-Laurent Vuillermoz has confirmed participation in the event; as well, Canadian biathletes (and current elite long-distance pentathlon champions) Marc-André Bédard and Claude Godbout will be attending the triathlon, after their participation at the Winter Olympics in Sochi. Two-time Olympic biathlon medalist Sylvie Becaert, from France, will also be at the start, and others from Italy, Russia and the USA are also confirmed to attend. Calletta indicated they also have Olympians in speed skating and other sports who want to be part of the premiere, and both CBC and TV5 Monde will be covering the event live.

WANT TO LEARN MORE? Check out triathlonhiverquebec.com. adventuramag.ca winter 2013 9

DAYTRIPPER FIELD REPORT

RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO STAY INDOORS DURING THE CHILLY MONTHS. PUT YOUR WARMEST FOOT FORWARD AND HEAD OUTDOORS FOR SUNSHINE, FRESH AIR AND NEW EXPERIENCES. HERE ARE SOME EASY DAY TRIPS THAT MAY HAVE YOU SINGING LET IT SNOW, LET IT SNOW, LET IT SNOW! ALL WINTER LONG.

TORONTO

ICE TIME AT BRONTE CREEK BY SHELAGH MCNALLY

Bronte Creek Provincial Park is one of Ontario’s first Gateway Parks, created in 1972 to introduce an urban population to outdoor adventures. Roughly the same size as New York’s Central Park, this 1,690-acre reserve is divided by a valley creek, created over 14,000 years ago. About an hour from Toronto, you’ll find one of the largest Carolinian forests in Canada intermingled with other deciduous and coniferous trees. During the winter, the basketball court turns into an Olympic-sized outdoor skating rink, open every day. An on-site refrigeration system means the ice rink operates even during warm weather when other rinks are melting. A dedicated crew keeps ice smooth and clear with the help of a Zamboni. Close by in the recreation complex are heated change rooms and flush toilets. The park store sells refreshments, and offers skate rentals and push-bars for small children still on the learning curve. Outside is a bonfire area for everyone to enjoy. In the evening the rink is lit up, so you can even skate under the stars. When you get tired of skating and need to warm up, make a visit to the Children’s Farm and Playbarn. This 19th-century barn has been converted into a children’s play loft with slides, tunnels and plenty of room to run and jump around. A minifarmyard zoo houses pigs, chickens, rabbits, goats and sheep. Kids can watch the staff members feed the animals and learn more about their life on the farm. There is also a wonderful double-sided hill where you can toboggan on either side, as well as six cross-country ski trails.

Activity: Skating Level: Beginner to intermediate Hours: Daily 9:00 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Season: Winter Getting there: By car: Take the Q.E.W. to Burloak Drive (Exit 109). Turn north and go one km. Park entrance is on the right-hand side. The ice rink and playbarn are located in the park’s day-use area accessible off Burloak Drive. Cost: Entry fee of $14.16 per regular vehicle. Winter day-use pass for $62. No additional fees for ice rink, Children’s Farm or Playbarn. Skates and push aids: $5 per hour each. Gear: Skates and suitably warm clothing Other activities: Tobogganing, cross-country skiing For more info: brontecreek.org; call 905-827-6911 ext. 417 for rink conditions

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BANFF

OTTAWA

MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL

SKIJORING AT ESCAPADE ESKIMO BY BRYEN DUNN

Located an hour outside of Ottawa around scenic Otter Lake in the Outaouais region, Escapade Eskimo is a 200-acre wilderness oasis for outdoor winter enthusiasts. Their newest offering, skijoring, is definitely for the more advanced Nordic athlete. According to proprietor Sylvain Drapeau, it’s more for people who ski a lot and are in fairly good shape. Part of the rise in the popularity of skijoring is the minimal equipment requirements, which basically involves connecting the belted skier and harnessed dog together via a tug line, thereby enabling the dog to assist the skier by pulling them along the wooded trails. There are no reins or other signalling devices to control the dog, so they must be motivated by the desire to run, and respond to the owner’s voice for direction. Although the Siberian huskies can typically pull the equivalent of twice their weight (approximately 45 kg), you actually need to ski as well to really get anywhere (but beware of any downhill sections, when the dogs get their greatest speed!). Escapade Eskimo offers both skijoring and dogsledding packages, which include lessons, snack, kennel visit and approximately an hour on the trails, covering 10–15 km. If you have more than a day to spare and are looking for some real adventure, the 24-hour Excursion dogsledding package includes accommodation at a neighbouring bed & breakfast, while the four-day Expedition dogsledding package lets participants head out into the far northern backcountry, traversing over 100 km, with accommodations in remote outfitter camps.

WORLD TOUR

2014 QUÉBEC TOUR JANUARY 21 TO MARCH 14 An event by

Activity: Skijoring Level: Advanced Season: Winter (November to March) Getting there: Take Route 5 north to Wakefield, then follow Route 105 to Kazabazua. Turn left on Route 301 and continue 26 km to the entrance at number 1378. Look for the blue sign on the left side. Cost: $79 for three hours/10 km. You must bring your own skis. Other activities: Snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, geocaching, hiking, dogsledding (average $25) For more: To reach Escapade Eskimo, call 613-454-5443 or check out escapade-eskimo.com

Ski Touring, Mt. Shuksan © Grant Gunderson

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SOMETHING TO CHEER FOR AT THE WINTER OLYMPICS

BY MATT COLAUTTI

There is a video that appeared on YouTube shortly after the end of the 2010 Winter Olympics. The clip begins with a fixed shot looking across False Creek at the host city of Vancouver. Suddenly, the soft background din of harbour sounds erupts into frenzied cheering and whistling. The noise swells to a continuous roar, accentuated by the odd boat horn in the foreground. It’s February 28, 2010, and the clock at Canada Hockey Place reads 12:20. Sidney Crosby has just scored the overtime goal in the Canada versus USA hockey game, winning the gold medal with a score of 3-2.

The answer, of course, is yes. As the arrival of HBC’s red mittens and Olympicthemed Coca-Cola ads herald the Olympic machine rumbling to life, it’s important to remember that the world of amateur sports didn’t stop after Vancouver. Our athletes have been criss-crossing the globe over the past three winters. They’ve been training, setting records and winning world championships. The group that will walk into Fisht Olympic Stadium during the opening ceremonies in Sochi and wave to us across nine time zones is already a team of champions capable of making it to the podium.

It’s one of those moments immortalized in our national consciousness. Most remember where they were when it happened. And most remember the aftermath: hysterical cheering on the streets, flag waving, spontaneous singing of the national anthem. In Toronto, thousands of fans in red and white spilling into the city caused an impromptu closure of Yonge Street. In Vancouver, the downtown didn’t die down until after midnight, fully 12 hours after the game had ended.

But it is during the Olympic Games that the entire world is truly watching – and talking. Forty-six countries will be competing in Sochi, and media teams from around the world will be on location to cover the events. The Olympics are consistently the most watched event in history; an estimated 4.7 billion people watched the 2008 Olympics in Beijing. During the 2010 Vancouver Olympics, some 80 percent of the Canadian population tuned in to the gold medal hockey game. When Usain Bolt set the new 200-metre sprint Olympic record at the 2012 Olympics in London, the world responded at a rate of 80,000 tweets per minute.

Even the athletes were inspired by the enormous show of support. When Olympic snowboarder Caroline Calvé talks about walking around Vancouver four years ago, it is with the same excitement as the fans. “You stop yourself and say, ‘Hey, you’re actually going to be competing in a few days.’ You get carried by that whole energy.” Team Canada’s stellar performance at the 2010 Games extends well beyond hockey. On Day Three, Alex Bilodeau skied a near-perfect moguls course, earning the first-ever gold medal on Canadian soil. That same day, Kristina Groves nabbed the first of her two medals in speed skating. Canadian teams grabbed the firstplace and second-place spots in women’s bobsleigh. On Day 12, Ashleigh McIvor clinched gold in the newly debuted ski cross event. Figure skater Joannie Rochette managed to earn a bronze medal despite losing her mother days earlier. By the end of the competition, Canada had amassed more gold medals at a single Winter Games than any other country in history. It’s a tough act to follow. And now, with the Sochi Games just weeks away, Canadians across the country are asking themselves what went so right last time, and more importantly: Can our athletes do it again?

12 winter 2013 adventuramag.ca

Our media buzz is already one of the loudest, and every day a roster of sportswriters dissect the latest Team Canada news. If anything, the success in Vancouver has only fuelled the expectations of our athletes. Steve Podborski, the Canadian Olympic Committee’s chef de mission, is calling for the top medal count at the Games. The Dutch-based Infostrada Sports Group predicts Canada will take home a whopping 34 medals. One of those will hopefully belong to Calvé, who clinched the gold at the Parallel Giant Slalom World Championship in 2011, the first Canadian woman to do so. According to Calvé, the pressure she experiences as an athlete comes more from within than from external factors. “You can’t control if you can win on the day of the event,” she explains, “you can only focus on your own preparations.” That message echoes the sentiments of the Canadian government, which led a rallying call a decade ago to increase Canada’s medal count in time for the Vancouver Olympics. Their program, Own the Podium, has infused $367 million into medal-contending sports since 2005. It has been both hailed as an incubator for amateur sports and condemned as an unsportsmanlike means of buying

medals. Yet few disagree that it has helped make life easier for our athletes.

the athletes on the field, who earn just enough to pay the rent and expenses in order to keep doing what they love. We can always do more.

World-class competitors need world-class coaches, equipment and competition, especially when the difference between winning a medal and not winning a medal can amount to a tenth of a second. “Often enough it’s me who is paying for equipment,” continues Calvé, “and you can be assured I am not using just one snowboard per year.” Even with Own the Podium support, athletes struggle to finance their careers. Building a brand and speaking to sponsors are not every athlete’s strength, even if the task of fundraising has grown to become part of their job.

It’s all of this that makes the Olympics a time of stories. There are stories of success, stories of loss, stories of training and heartbreak and personal bests. But they are our stories, too. They are the moments we remember celebrating with friends and family, or the inspirational performances that stick with us long after the Games have finished. As Calvé puts it, “There’s that feeling of being part of something bigger.” Our continued support of our athletes will bring us plenty more stories. And if they haven’t already, the Winter Olympics will become Canada’s Games. This February, we’ll be watching Sochi eagerly, and singing along to “O Canada” as our athletes proudly return to their place at the top of the podium.

In some respects, the responsibility of building a national team falls on the nation itself. After all, each of us cheering in the streets is sharing in the victory. Consider the great juxtaposition of the Olympic audience – with thousand-dollar tickets – and

TRAINING WITH CAROLINE CALVÉ Think you’re training as hard as an Olympian? Think again. A conversation with Olympian Caroline Calvé reveals just what it’s like to be at the cutting edge of a sport.

FREQUENCY – Up until the season begins, the schedule calls for high-volume

training, a few times per day. This includes a rotation of long-distance cycling, running and weights. TARGETED GOALS – “For me, running was never easy, and I always find it really tough at the start of the season,” says Calvé. Now, when setting out on a run, she has very specific heart-rate-zone goals. Her runs fly by. RACE-DAY CARDIO – Once a week, workouts are timed to the race-day schedule. If race heats are normally in the afternoon and spaced 20 minutes apart, Calvé spends the afternoon doing high-cardio bursts every 20 minutes. TAPER – Once the season begins in December, her training decreases slightly but her energy stays the same. ON LOCATION – The Canadian team will be spending lots of time in Europe in the weeks leading up to their events. They’ll also have a few days on the course before the televised heats begin. Tessa Virtue and Scott Moir

Kaillie Humphries and Heather Moyse

ATHLETES TO FOLLOW Patrick Chan, figure skating: Having won the World Championship for the past three years, look to Chan to add a medal to his impressive collection of titles. @Pchiddy

Tessa Virtue and Scott Moir, ice dancing: The London, Ontario,

pair have been skating together since they were eight years old, and hope for another gold medal this year in Sochi. and world record holder in the 1,000-metre race, Hamelin will return to the Games alongside his younger brother and teammate, François. @Speedskater01

Christine Nesbitt, long-track speed skating: Nesbitt won the gold

medal in the 1,000-metre event in Vancouver, but suffered a severe cycling collision during the summer after the Games. Watch her complete the recovery process with another win in Sochi. @CNezzy

Kaillie Humphries, bobsleigh: In 2012, Humphries won the World

Championship, the latest feat in an impressive career. She hopes to repeat her gold-medal performance at Sochi. @BobsledKaillie

Charles Hamelin, short-track speed skating: Three-time medalist

Jon Montgomery, skeleton: Montgomery celebrated his gold-medal

victory in 2010 by drinking a pitcher of beer and singing “O Canada” in front of the media. He has since gone from fan favourite to national icon as host of The Amazing Race Canada. @jrmonty12

Roz Groenewoud, ski halfpipe: A Winter X Games champion, Roz is

expected to be a gold-medal contender when this new sport debuts at Sochi. @rozgroenewoud adventuramag.ca winter 2013 13

///FEATURE

FACING THE

Ultimate Continent © Vicente Castro

BY ANTOINE STAB

In February 2014, a team of six adventurers from Quebec will depart on a 45-day expedition to an unexplored region of Antarctica to climb virgin peaks and push the boundaries of the unknown. The journey is the fruit of three years of thought and preparation. We caught up with two members of XP Antarctik: Alexandre Byette and Marina Lançon. WHAT ARE THE OBJECTIVES OF THIS 45-DAY ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION ? Marina Lançon: XP Antarctik is structured around three points: explore, document and inspire. “Explore” is the expedition itself: sailing from Ushuaia and crossing the tumultuous Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula, a totally unexplored region. For a month, we will be completely on our own… And then we have to make it back to South America! “Document” refers to our partnership with the Université du Québec à Montréal (UQAM). We’ve been working in collaboration with Jean Boucher and Alain Steve Comtois from the kinanthropology department, and we are the guinea pigs for a team of researchers studying the human body’s capacity to adapt to extreme conditions. Finally, “inspire” is about including the community in our trip. We’re collecting funds for the Children’s Wish Foundation to help make the dream of a terminally ill child come true. 14 winter 2013 adventuramag.ca

Alexandre Byette: The Canadian Space Agency is also on board for the project. We will test materials, since our conditions will be similar to those of a space expedition: six people for a month and a half in an extreme environment without contact with the outside world. HOW DID THE IDEA FOR THIS PROJECT COME TO YOU? AB: Marina and I have endless motivation. When it’s just the two of us, we love to challenge each other and come up with some pretty radical ideas. The idea of going to Antarctica was born out of one of these discussions. It may have started as a joke, but soon enough we were both dead serious. That was three years ago and we’re almost there, even though it’s hard to believe… WHAT ABOUT THE DESIRE TO ACHIEVE A WORLD FIRST BY CLIMBING VIRGIN MOUNTAINS? ML: That wasn’t really the initial motivation. Today, many expeditions come together with this goal in mind, but it’s not what we’re most concerned about or interested in. We’re after the thrill of exploration and adventure, even though it must be said that we aren’t the real explorers: It’s those who were just like us 200 years ago, yet they were leaving without really knowing where they were going. AB: We want to try and find that sense of adventure again because today, it doesn’t mean what it once did. When so-called explorers get dropped by airplane at the South Pole and walk for a few kilometres before being picked up again, it’s hardly an adventure. We want to be in a situation where there will be no marked trails. We want to be able to grab our binoculars and wonder which way to go. Zero data. No maps. Unnamed mountains. It’s an enormous playground!

WHAT ARE YOU MOST LOOKING FORWARD TO IN ANTARCTICA? AB: Living there. After a long day, crawling into our duvet, eating a good meal and admiring the view, seeing the aurora borealis. But I expect the return to Ushuaia to be great, too: the first hot shower, attending an asado [a traditional BBQ], etc. When you’re on an expedition, you start to fantasize about food or creature comforts that you inevitably miss.

◗ A WIDE VARIETY OF TRAILS FOR CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING AND SNOWSHOEING ◗ COTTAGE, INN OR HUT ACCOMMODATIONS

BEFORE EMBARKING ON THE PROJECT, WHAT DID THE CONTINENT REPRESENT TO YOU? ML: For me it’s one of the last continents where there’s still terrain to explore. There’s nothing – not even a local population. That’s what makes me want to go. AB: It’s the ultimate continent, one and a half times bigger than Canada. It’s the southernmost, coldest, windiest and most difficult to access, with the biggest desert in the world. IS IT A LITTLE BIT CRAZY TO BE DOING THIS? AB: Everyone has a little crazy in them! It’s all relative. The important thing is to do it for yourself rather than others. The success of this adventure depends on the safe return of the entire team. When it was created, we all put this objective in writing: We all want to come home in one piece. That might seem obvious, but it’s very important because it affects how we’ll make decisions and manage risks. We all want to go, but we also all want to come back. Therefore, we built some buffer time into every stage of the trip. If we can do more, great. Our philosophy is to have fun on the mountain, and if we can make it to the peak, it’s a bonus. I’m ready to do anything within reason to get there, but only if I can come back. Everyone on the team shares this state of mind. ML: We’re not after the peak at all costs. A few years ago, I broke my clavicle just as I was about to go climbing. The doctors told me: “Don’t be frustrated, the mountains aren’t going anywhere.” It’s true. We might never go back to Antarctica, but if we ever do get the urge and opportunity again, the mountains will always be waiting for us. WHAT ARE SOME OF THE CHALLENGES YOU EXPECT TO ENCOUNTER? ML: The cold. In Antarctica, there’s no place to warm up. Everything stems from us. Our bodies must heat our clothing and sleeping bag. It requires lots of self-management to keep sweat and humidity at bay, especially when you’re physically active. From a technical point of view, we’ll be facing some pretty hostile elements: glaciers, crevasses, wind. Our departure point is at sea level and we’ll climb toward a plateau at 2,000 metres altitude, over a distance of two kilometres. HOW HAVE YOU BEEN PREPARING? AB: Preparation has happened on many levels. First, physically with a training program designed by UQAM researchers to develop our strength in order to pull our sleds. Then, technically for climbing: In November, we’ll be training in the Canadian Rockies. Finally, team preparation to focus on teamwork. Over there, we’ll have nothing but each other.

Located in Ferme-Neuve

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ML: It’s a gamble to embark on this expedition with six people: It’s pretty unheard of because it usually doesn’t work. When you’re pushed to your limit, it’s hard to manage one brain, let alone six! We’ll do everything we can to make it work, but we can’t guarantee anything. That’s the whole point of preparing as a team. WHAT IS THE COST OF THE XP ANTARCTIK ADVENTURE? AB: The overall budget is $360,000. Members of the team are personally responsible for a portion of that. A portion of that represents services and gear: skis, solar panels, food and communication. Our biggest expense is the payment of the sailboat that will take us Antarctica. To help defray the costs, we’ve organized several fundraisers: dinners, a golf tournament, and more to come before we take off. We also have sponsors who are buying visibility. And finally, we’re crowdsourcing: Individuals who want to support us can donate $5 to $500 on our website. T o follow the expedition’s progress, visit xpantarctik.com

Located in Rivière-Rouge HUT OR TEEPEE ACCOMMODATIONS LUGGAGE TRANSPORTATION AVAILABLE SNOWSHOEING 9 KM CLASSIC CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING 44 KM

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WEEKEND GATEWAY + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

LA TRAVERSÉE DE CHARLEVOIX BY PATRICE HALLEY

LET’S FACE IT, if you only consider the weather factor, winter is not exactly the ideal getaway time. However, if you don’t mind snow in the air and ice on the ground, rosy cheeks, dripping noses and deep silence, then winter becomes more interesting. If you add to the picture a cozy cabin and time to cuddle with your loved one by the wood stove, the perspective of a long weekend in the woods is now becoming a dream. Include cooking hearty meals and sipping some good Scotch in the evenings and you have painted yourself a scene that will make you think winter, after all, is the perfect

time to escape civilization with a quick adventure. La Traversée de Charlevoix can refer to a variety of things. It’s the name of a 105-kilometre multi-season trek, as well as the not-for-profit organization that manages this network of trails and topographic maps. But first and foremost, it brings to mind a destination filled with outdoorsy promise, crossing some of the oldest mountains on Earth. It’s the brainchild of Eudore Fortin, a larger-than-life Québécois who has spent most of his life wandering the mountainous forests. Without getting bored a minute,

Fortin has worked the area for many years as a wood cutter and log driver. Naturally, he thought that everyone else would love to roam here as well. So, in 1977, he decided to build a log cabin and cut some trails to reach it. Now located between two ZECs (Zones d’Exploitation Contrôlées) and two national parks (Parc des GrandsJardins and Parc des Hautes Gorges de la Rivière Malbaie), the Traversée hosts hikers who can use a well-maintained network of trails, sleep in cozy cabins or rest in mountain refuges while hiking to their hearts’ content. This is what we intended to do while our friends were contemplating their holiday shopping lists. Knowing Eudore Fortin, an indefatigable hiker, I should have guessed that the log building that was to be our home for three days would not be standing by

146 other models in-store

the side of the road, but rather a kilometre away from it, on top of a butte. By the time my girlfriend and I arrive at the cabin’s location, night has arrived as well, and we have to ferry our luggage up a slippery trail guided only by the beams of our headlamps. Loaded down with a suitcase on wheels, pillows, food, drinks and other unnecessary items, we could have passed for butlers of a princely entourage – but it was just us two fools. In the morning, the breathtaking picture stretching in front of the cabin’s windows is worth all the effort. A string of horseshoe-shaped mountains most likely carved by a long-gone glacier surrounds us. Behind 16 winter 2013 adventuramag.ca

the cabin, the menacing Dome, an impressive cliff, is once again battling the elements. Despite the cold, we set our goal to climb it in the afternoon, following the 6.5-kilometre trail with over 900 metres in total elevation gain. Sounds like the perfect warm-up for our urban legs. After filling up water bottles at the mountain creek running behind the cabin, we start the climb, and as soon as we do, the weather gently clears. Winter was in a hurry to get things done here, it seems. The ground is already frozen. Snow is sprinkled on the path and ice has already covered the lichens and mosses, the vegetation’s palette of vivid colours

captured for the season. Without crampons, sections of the climb are slippery and difficult to negotiate (even for the four paws of our dog), but we’re simply enjoying being outside too much to care. Once on top, the winter wind is brisk. We carefully walk to the edge of the Dome. To our surprise, there is a nice rock balcony before the final drop. We down-climb to get away from the gusts of wind. Here, nothing matters but our cheese, baguette and saucisson sec sandwich. Down below, I can see the roof of our lonely cabin sitting about 150 metres straight below us. The path back to the cabin is made for the brave: Built in a creek bed, with huge rock

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ steps, it would make the perfect background for a Lord of the Rings action scene. The next day is involuntarily spent behind glass. Winds howled all night and the old cabin squeaked. The storm, it appears, likes our little cirque (the glacial-formed, amphitheatre-shaped head of the valley), and invades it furiously, throwing snowflakes in every possible direction. Time to dig up all the unnecessary items we brought, such as books to read, and a laptop to watch movies. The dog sighs by the door. We only go out to fetch water from the creek, and when nature calls (in the metaphorical sense). We had planned to spend day two hiking to Mont du Lac à l’Empêche and Mont Du Four, a 14-kilometre route with spectacular viewpoints, but instead we were cabin-bound.

So, on day three, enough is enough. While winds are still blasting the whole valley down below, we aim for Parc National des Grands-Jardins, the centrepiece of the Charlevoix UNESCO World Biosphere. The plan is to climb Mont du Lac des Cygnes, and according to the park’s brochure, it’s a four- to five-hour hike. Typically, it’s an easy day outing with only ten kilometres to cover and a modest 500 metres in elevation gain, but the trail could prove more challenging with 120-km/h wind gusts, as the local radio is reporting. Once we arrive at Petit Lac Georges, barely a kilometre away from the summit, we start feeling the cold pinch of an Arctic-like wind. After a long, wooden, stairway-to-heaven climb, we arrive on an open ridge, and amazing gusts of wind are nearly sweeping us off

our feet. Even with our small dog in her pack, my girlfriend can’t make it to the summit. She is just too light! Being a native from Charlevoix, she knows the place and the magnificent view. I don’t. So I decide to make a run for it, straight to the summit with all the might I have. Bizarrely, the top of the mountain is quiet, as if I were standing in the eye of the cyclone. When I return to my sweetheart, cuddled at the bottom of the stairs, a blue dusk is falling upon us. The first stars are blinking their way into a lazuli sky. We are alone in the world, happily guided by the beams of headlamps, on a trail that’s progressively darkening into a deep night. We don’t care. We know where the wood stove is, purring like an old faithful house cat, waiting for us.

BELOEIL - BROSSARD - BURLINGTON - ETOBICOKE - LAVAL - OSHAWA - OTTAWA - QUEBEC - VAUGHAN

PLAN AHEAD WHEN TO GO: La Traversée de Charlevoix is open year-round. Since the not-for-profit organization’s mission is to help you get the best possible experience, your stay is sure to be truly memorable, no matter the season! If you’re planning on checking out the Traversée de Charlevoix for a weekend, you won’t have time to cover the entire 105-kilometre distance (that requires hiking, biking or skiing for seven days straight, from cabin to cottage). To discover the region at a reasonable pace, you can consider a three-day hike with a shuttle service at the end, or, as we did, daily outings from the same cabin. WHAT TO BRING: Paths here are multi-functional, so you can either hike, bike, snowshoe or ski. Depending on the season and the activity, you will need a variety of equipment. Unless you stay in a cottage, a stove and a cookset are recommended, as well as a sleeping bag and pad. Don’t forget your water filter or water tablets, insect repellent (in the summer) and your cellphone (an important tool for safety).

WHERE TO STAY: The Traversée offers various accommodation along the trail, and there is no camping allowed. Our huge log house was a rustic yet luxurious shelter that served as a home base for us, our dog and a single mouse. We happily rediscovered the joy of fetching water at the creek, splitting our own wood, starting a fire and cooking a meal. WHERE TO EAT: Bring your own food but don’t forget to stop at Moulin de La Rémy (moulindelaremy.com), an old mill originally built in 1827 that sells bread, brioches and croissants, baked daily and made with wheat grown in Charlevoix and ground on site. Then you can stop at La Laiterie de Charlevoix to stock up on award-winning cheddar and other amazing cheeses (fromagescharlevoix.com), and finally, if you are a meat lover, get a saucisson at Les Viandes Biologiques de Charlevoix (viandesbiocharlevoix.com). FOR MORE: Go to any of these sites for more information on the trail, accommodation and maps: bonjourquebec.com, traverseedecharlevoix.qc.ca, tourisme-charlevoix.com adventuramag.ca winter 2013 17

IN YOUR OWN BACKYARD

What’s there to do this winter? Experts are sure to love a backcountry adventure, and novices will gain a new appreciation for the season with a winter camping workshop. And it’s all right in your own backyard! 18 winter 2013 adventuramag.ca

///PARKS

By Bryen Dunn

QUEBEC

Jacques-Cartier National Park Located just 30 minutes from Quebec City, it’s an outdoor adventure paradise. Last year, a new backcountry section was opened, where the more advanced voyagers are free to explore on their own, off-track. This new unpatrolled area offers enthusiasts the opportunity to hone their skills with alpine touring, telemark skiing, snowshoeing and snowboarding. Although this backcountry area currently encompasses 100 hectares of forested land, it’s a small part of the overall park. It’s located right next to the Discovery and Visitors Centre on the west shore of Rivière Jacques-Cartier, making it easily accessible. There are 300 vertical metres to traverse, with slope angles ranging from 20 to 35 degrees. “This serves as a limited area where we can evaluate the impacts on the ecosystems,” says

ONTARIO

Frontenac Provincial Park Created in 1974, the park occupies 5,214 hectares within Frontenac County in southeastern Ontario, less than an hour from Kingston. It’s open yearround, and approximately 2,700 visitors visit the park between November and March to take in some of the outdoor activities or events offered. Nearly 700 of the more adventurous visitors will spend the night hunkering down in a tent beneath the snow-covered trees. While the entire Frontenac backcountry is open to winter visitors, campers must stay at one of the designated 48 interior campsites. For those interested in winter camping, the Friends of Frontenac Park offer free planning workshops (with paid park admission) in January. These cover the basics, such as route selection, menu planning, equipment needs, safety and conditioning. They then organize two instructional weekends to allow individuals from the planning workshop to try a night of winter camping with the guidance of the instructors. This second workshop provides a handson approach, such as how to build a quinzee, set up a tent in winter, and prepare appropriate meals. A quinzee is a shelter made by gathering a large pile of settled snow and hollowing out the inside, similar in construction to an igloo. An additional program, titled Hot Winter Camping, provides attendees with tips on how to stay warm on overnight excursions with the proper equipment and attire. Winter camping is best done in late February and throughout March, when the days start getting longer,

park representative René-Martin Trudel. “No trees or even branches have been cut or removed. The area is truly untouched terrain, and with proper scientific evaluation, we are confident about respecting our conservation mission as well.” Once you enter the backcountry, the terrain is not maintained, hazards are not marked and there’s no ground maintenance. Those venturing into the area should always make sure they have the ability and special skills required for the chosen activity, be equipped accordingly, and be prepared to selfevacuate if necessary. With these types of more extreme outdoor adventures, it’s always advisable to travel with others and carry the necessary equipment, such as goggles, helmet, a map, GPS or compass, layered clothing, food and water, first aid kit, a basic repair kit, an emergency sled for evacuation and a cellphone. (Like any activity in Quebec’s national parks, emergency services are ensured by the provincial police with the help of local firemen and paramedics.) the nights shorter, and the temperatures less harsh. The Ultimate All-Season Camper Challenge was launched in late 2011, and aims to have individuals camp in the park at least once in every month of the year. Seventeen people completed the challenge in that inaugural year, and 21 people completed it this past year. It should be noted that other than tenting or building a quinzee, there are no other winter accommodations available in the park. For those adventurous enough to brave the elements of winter, there’s plenty of wildlife about that also shares the space: otters, porcupines, wild turkeys, white-tailed deer, coyotes, wolves, weasels, fishers, beavers, bald eagles, grouse, squirrel and a variety of winter birds, to name a few. Ice fishing for speckled trout is also popular in the three northern lakes of Moulton, Clearwater and Tetsmine. This park has one of Ontario’s most extensive trail networks, with approximately 10 km of track-set trails that are dependent upon snow conditions. The entire park remains open all winter for anyone wishing to hike, snowshoe or backcountry ski. Winter hiking can be great after a thaw or before a snowfall, but it’s advisable for individuals to carry traction aids for any icy sections. When the snow is deep, backcountry travellers must be prepared to break their own trail. The 3.5-km stretch of Big Salmon Lake Road is used as part of the cross-country ski trail system, and consists of gentle slopes and curves, making it ideal for skiers of all abilities. The 4.5-km south trail and two-km north trail run parallel, and are of moderate to difficult level. The trails are narrow, bordered by trees, and have sharp curves and several steep hills.

According to Trudel, “This is the first forested area open for intense winter travel in the Parcs Québec network that is easily accessible, as it is usually forbidden to venture off trails in the park. The terrain is quite exceptional, the forest ecosystem is magnificent, and we’ll open this area as soon as we get one metre of snowpack.” For those wanting to spend a couple of days exploring this hinterland, there are overnight accommodation options available to rent, such as yurts, camping, and the new EXP(erience) chalet for two. Location: 103, chemin du Parc-National, Stoneham-etTewkesbury, Quebec Cost: $6.50 per person, snowshoe and pole rentals on site More info: For current snow conditions, call 418-848-3169. For general park info, call 1-800-665-6527 or check out sepaq.com

Most snowshoers and hikers enjoy the moderate three-km Doe Lake Loop and easy 1.5-km Arab Lake Gorge Loop. For an all-day adventure, the meandering eight-km Bufflehead Trail makes for a great excursion. After a day outdoors, the park office has a lounge to kick back and relax in, with a fireplace and hot beverages. Location: 6700 Salmon Lake Rd., Sydenham, Ontario Cost: Camping is $11.87 per adult/night. The Winter Camping Instructional Weekends are $65.00 per person, plus interior camping fee. More info: For Friends of the Frontenac program info, check out frontenacpark.ca. Trail conditions are available at parkreports.com. For general info, call 613-376-3489 or check out ontarioparks.com/park/frontenac ` Backcountry Slang What is telemark skiing? Telemark is a form of downhill skiing using bindings where the boot is attached only at the toe, allowing the heel to come up from the ski. Since the heel is free, the skier is able to go into a lunge position in order to turn, which offers greater downhill performance and durability. What is alpine touring? Alpine touring is a combination of hiking and skiing that enables venturing beyond the marked ski trails to discover fresh snow and pristine territory. Alpine touring equipment is typically lighter and more flexible, making it easy to carry and to avoid sinking into the snow.

HALIBURTON HIGHLANDS

HALIBURTON HIGHLANDS TORONTO

BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY

In the heart of Ontario’s cottage country, an easy three-hour drive north of Toronto, the Haliburton Highlands are a prime spot to experience the great white outdoors we’re famous for. Unleash some thrills on a dogsledding journey or an alpine ski run, then calm your soul with some spa pampering.

R&R By the frozen shoreline of Eagle Lake is Sir Sam’s Inn and Waterspa, a legendary property known for its historic roots and its supreme setting (from $210 per night based on double occupancy • 1-800-361-2188 • sirsamsinn.com). Nestled by trails ideal for snowshoers, cross-country and alpine skiers, the 10-bedroom property is styled in vintage Canadiana. The on-site full-service spa has an adjacent sauna, and the indoor heated pool is reminiscent of an Italian grotto. A half-hour from the slopes, across a string of icy lakelets, sits a 12-sided architectural wonder better known as the Stouffer Mill Bed and Breakfast ($125 per couple, includes full breakfast and free Wi-Fi • 1-888-593-8888 • stouffermill.com). This season marks the 20th anniversary of the fabled retreat, tucked in the forests of Haliburton. Be sure to enjoy the rooftop hot tub, perfect for winter moon-gazing. Gourmet dinner packages are available, so you don’t have to leave the comforts of your snowswept abode.

EAT The Twin Fires Dining Room at Sir Sam’s Inn celebrates seasonal ingredients, and has a great selection of Ontario wines from which to choose (you can take the spiral staircase to the cellar and explore). Two-course menus are popular ($32–$44), with recent mains being a roast rack of crusted Ontario pork loin drizzled in a divine smoked apple jus with olive-oil-roasted new potatoes. Complete the day with a winter warm-up, like the Canadian coffee ($8) with Canadian Club, 20 winter 2013 adventuramag.ca

Irish Mist, coffee and whipped cream, or hit the hefty single malt menu for a fine 18-year Glenlivet ($18). For those who don’t want chow time to cut into ski/snowboard time, head for the cues at the chalet of Sir Sam’s ski area (705-754-2298), home to the best burgers and Montreal smoked meat, slaw and poutine ($12.95). For Saturday-night parties with live bands or DJs, it’s Sammy’s Pub, a small nook inside the chalet.

PLAY DOGSLEDDING: On the fringes of Algonquin Provincial Park, Winterdance Dogsled Tours (from $110 per person • 705-457-5281 • winterdance.com) leads two-hour, half- and full-day tours with full instruction by a pro musher guide. Head along pristine private land dotted with frozen ponds, rivers and snow-blanketed pine groves. For the longer haul, expect heartwarming eats (could be cocoa and cookies or maybe soup and burgers). Lauded as a Signature Experience by the Canadian Tourism Commission, this is Canada’s only sled-dog outfitter with a kennel of Siberian huskies that have done both the 1,000-mile Alaskan Iditarod and the 1,000-mile Yukon Quest. DOWNHILL SKIING: Sir Sam’s ski area (weekend lift tickets are $85 • sirsams.com), a longstanding, family-owned operation, offers 14 groomed runs for advanced and novice skiers and snowboarders. It also boasts the Time Tunnel, Canada’s only covered magic carpet ride (it’s really an enclosed surface lift). Expect a 325-foot descent, pretty big for Ontario. This winter, watch for new improvements to the Terrain Park and snowmaking.

LE MASSIF DE CHARLEVOIX QUEBEC

BY TRAVIS PERSAUD

Discover Le Massif de Charlevoix, a new, full-service destination where nature and adventure meet great food and relaxation. About three and a half hours east of Montreal, it’s not only a great skiing spot, you’ll be sure to enjoy the time you spend off the slopes as well.

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Take the rail shuttle (from $18 for hotel guests) from La Ferme to Mer et Monts Restaurant (418-632-5876 for reservations) by the mountain in Petite-RivièreSaint-François. Sitting on the summit of the mountain, the restaurant offers stunning views. Mains ($18 to $22) created by chef Guy Bessone include such delectable dishes as Guinea fowl tatin with honeyed baby turnips and grilled blue marlin. For something a little more revelrous, Le Coteilleux Summit Pub (418-632-5876 for reservations), also in the same area, is one of the liveliest spots around. Grab a pint and catch one of their free live concerts on Saturday night.

Spend the night in cozy comfort in a cabin, yurt or four-season tent. In the morning, just step outside DY-TO-C and enjoy one of the largest networks of crossEA R e du country ski trails in North America! R ce d

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It begins on the train. Sure, you can hop in your car and drive to Charlevoix, but Le Massif’s train (418-948-1725 • lemassif.com) puts your mind and body at ease from the moment you take your seat. Travelling from Quebec City to La Malbaie in Charlevoix County, the train navigates along the shoreline of the St. Lawrence River, passing spectacular waterfalls and beautiful mountain ranges. It drops you off at Hôtel La Ferme (rooms start from $155 • lemassif.com/en/ferme), where you can spend the night in one of their five buildings. La Basse-Cour is the most familyoriented, with a number of the rooms featuring bunk beds if you’re bringing the wee ones, while Le Moulin is the most spacious. And the farmside Spa du Verger (418 240-4120 for reservations) offers everything from thermal baths (from $35) to massage therapy (from $85).

PLAY SKI: Skiing is the big draw during the winter. Le Massif’s ski resort in Petite-RivièreSaint-François boasts a total of 52 trails and glades across more than 300 acres. The mountain has the highest vertical east of the Canadian Rockies, placing a third of their runs within the “expert calibre” category. (They often host elite competitions for skiers from around the world!) But don’t let that scare you away if you’re new to the sport. They’ve created a beginner’s area with three trails and two lifts so you can learn to glide down the mountain in safety. RODELING: For something equally fun, and a little novel, try rodeling (from $30). This growing activity combines the downhill thrill of skiing, while on a luge-like sled. Le Massif has created a 7.5-km trail that’s specially made for this high-speed adventure!

MASSIF DE CHARLEVOIX

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adventuramag.ca winter 2013 21

///GLOBE-TROTTER

A TREK TO THE EDGE

OF THE WORLD TEXT AND PHOTOS BY MATT COLAUTTI

IT IS THE INTERMITTENT SOUND OF ROCKFALL THAT MAKES OUR ASCENT UP THE VALLE DEL FRANCÉS SO EERIE. THE DISTANT PITTER-PATTER BREAKS THE SILENCE EVERY FEW MINUTES, MAKING THE MEMBERS OF OUR HIKING GROUP LOOK AROUND NERVOUSLY. BUT THERE IS NOTHING TO SEE THROUGH THE LOW CLOUD HANGING IN THE VALLEY. NOTHING TO SEE EXCEPT THE PETRIFIED, LEAFLESS TREES SCATTERED NEAR THE TRAIL, BENT INTO GROTESQUE SHAPES BY THE WIND. HERE ON THE FAMED TORRES DEL PAINE (PRONOUNCED TORREHZ-DELL-PIE-NAY) TREK IN CHILEAN PATAGONIA, THE WEATHER IS KNOWN TO CHANGE IN AN INSTANT. I catch up to John, who is standing in a rocky chute, debating how to cross a small river. A series of small boulders form a treacherous path to the other side. “Might have to cut around it,” I point out, gesturing to a possible crossing further upstream. As we debate the options, Jan tentatively places a foot onto the first stepping stone. He shifts his weight to balance, and looks over at us in triumph. Sarah, Julian and Martin arrive at the crossing, and all eyes are on Jan as he steps onto the next rock. Thwoosh. In a split second, Jan loses his balance 22 winter 2013 adventuramag.ca

and plunges face first into the water. It happens so calmly, it almost seems like he did it on purpose. We react as fast as we can: John runs forward to pull Jan out of the water; I whip out my camera and try to catch a few shots. Jan is unhurt but completely soaked. As he heads back to camp to dry off and warm up, I recall the words of Rustyn, the grizzled American guide who had helped us organize the trek a few days ago: “I’ve been on this trek a hundred times, and I’ve fallen on my ass a hundred times.” We are still two and a half

days from Mirador las Torres, the famous viewpoint of the iconic rock spires that made this part of Patagonia famous. I wonder how many more falls we have to look forward to. Tracing a path south from Canada, one travels over 10,000 kilometres of roads through a dozen countries before arriving in Patagonia, a name synonymous with adventure. The region has long been famous for its savage unknown. Ferdinand Magellan described the original inhabitants as bigfooted giants. Missionaries told of hostile tribes and escaped criminals. Explorers have balked at the ferocious weather. Both in spirit and geography, the “Uttermost Part of the Earth” is closer to Antarctica than the Chilean capital of Santiago. It seemed appropriate that the first day of the hike, after a night of frenzied packing and a day of slogging uphill with heavy packs, we would arrive at the frozen, alien landscape of Glacier Grey. “I wonder if we can climb on it,” John wonders aloud. We have stopped on an exposed cliff high above Lago Grey. At the far end of the lake, a bulging sea of ice spills down from the valley. Next to the glacier is our campsite for the night. After an hour of hiking we stand in the shadow of the 30-metre ice wall. Up close, the ridged texture

is inhospitable and dangerous. The ice gleans a soft blue, contrasting with the lake’s sickly, grey-coloured water. Glacier Grey is a 28-kilometre tentacle of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, a massive ice sheet the size of Georgian Bay. We sit for 30 minutes, a mere heartbeat in the life of a glacier; this ice behemoth has been churning up the terrain here for tens of thousands of years. We arrive at our campsite, a large tent city nestled in the damp, lichen-covered forest. Grouped beneath a shelter, we hastily eat rations of rice. The six of us met on a five-day ferry ride into Patagonia, enduring days of seasickness, poor weather and questionable food. Once again, we are happy for each other’s company. Julian pulls out a bottle of whisky. He takes a long sip before passing it around. “Any occasion?” asks Martin. “My birthday,” says Julian. A cold rain has begun to fall, yet there’s a happy optimism in our huddled circle. We sing an admirable rendition of “Happy Birthday,” just loud enough to be heard over the constant howling of the wind. had first learned about the Torres del Paine at a party, while leafing through the travel photos of a friend’s cousin. The exotic name became a distant goal, and the dramatic spires burned their image onto my brain. For years I dreamed about a trip to the edge of the world. Finally, the opportunity presented itself. Young and naïve, I purchased my first international plane ticket, an expensive new backpack and a travel guide for Chile. By the trek’s third day the entire group is on edge, and my goal feels more distant than ever. The overcast skies block our views and give us a permanent chill. My feet are completely soaked. Sarah and John are not on speaking terms and refuse to walk together. Jan’s normally wide smile has shrunk substantially since his swim in the river. And we’re hungry.

Understanding the Torres

Part of the appeal of the Torres del Paine trek is the wide variety of Patagonian terrain it traverses. THE ANDES – This range of mountains runs along the spine of South America, and is formed by one tectonic plate sliding under another. RAIN SHADOW – The Andes are a natural barrier that blocks the moisture of Pacific weather systems from reaching the eastern slopes. PATAGONIAN STEPPE – East of the Andes, Patagonia is cold, treeless, and in fact one of the world’s largest deserts. LACCOLITH – A geological term for magma that is unable to reach the surface and instead creates a bulge in the rock layers above. SOUTHERN PATAGONIAN ICE FIELD – The second largest ice field outside of the poles, responsible for eroding away sedimentary rock to expose the granite laccolith spires that are the highlight of the trek.

The topography continues to change. I am alone when I arrive at the placid Lago Nordenskjold, a large lake ringed with a border of white and black stones. A technicolour tableau of green hills is reflected in the water. Behind me, a small waterfall spills down from Cuerno Norte. The Torres del Paine is one of South America’s most famous parks, attracting over 100,000 visitors each year. The adventurous contingent of the backpacking culture takes to the hiking trails, carrying tents to the park’s free campsites. For those seeking a more comfortable visit, there are tours by boat and horseback, with nights spent at catered refugios. Tonight we have decided to splurge on dinner at the busy Refugio Los Cuernos. The long wooden tables are already crowded when we put in orders for dinner. We wait for our food while looking out the floor-to-ceiling windows toward the southern face of Cuerno Este, glowing yellow from the light of the setting sun. No one says anything until the food arrives. Hands drop plates on our table and I can see the smiles appear on the faces of my hiking partners. Warm soups, dinner rolls, cannelloni and finally fruit desserts come and go with record efficiency. Julian looks over at a woman at another table who has pushed her meal away in disgust. “Are you going to eat that?” he asks. Our table howls with laughter as she hands over her leftovers. The chill of the afternoon thaws. We stay late into the evening, swapping stories with other hikers in the cozy warmth of the refugio, rejuvenating ourselves for the final push. The next morning, we set out across the steppes under blue skies. The air is the clearest we’ve seen for the entire trip. Low grass sways in the wind, and the bare distant hills are coloured like a pastel painting. It’s the sort of landscape where one would expect a group of gauchos to ride by on horseback any second, chasing their sheep herd into the horizon. Today, spent rounding the eastern flank of the massif, should be one of the longest days. But in high spirits and with full bellies we move across the terrain at good speed. We begin the final spur trail to Mirador las Torres by 2 o’clock. It’s a steep final ascent, and in a few sections I have to use my hands to climb. My legs scream as I at last come to the top

of the moraine. Then the pain fades as I finally view a familiar sight. The loose rock at my feet leads down to form three sides of a small alpine lake. The far end terminates in a steep, corrugated wall. The shelf above is white with snow and the precariously hanging Glacier Torres. Rising above that are the three Torres, pointing like daggers triumphantly into the sky. It’s as jaw-dropping a view as the photos promised it would be. I sit and share a silent moment with nature, thinking about how far I’ve travelled to get here. It was all worth it. A picture can be one of the best ways to find inspiration. Surely we have all gotten lost in some online gallery of faraway destinations. Somewhere on the hike I discovered that with a little determination and a few friends, any snapshot can be realized. It only took a journey to the edge of the world to figure that out.

In Patagonia There are plenty of reasons to linger in southern Argentina and Chile for a few weeks while recovering from the hike: PERITO MORENO GLACIER, ARGENTINA – Take a guided walk on this glacier, one of the few in the world that is growing in size. NAVIMAG FERRY, CHILE – This four- to five-day (weather-dependent) ferry ride links the populated middle of Chile to Patagonia. Expect narrow channels, great sunsets and visits to remote communities. CARRETERA AUSTRAL, CHILE – This “highway” through southern Chile is a rough, mostly unpaved link to the rest of the country, and one of the world’s great adventure roads. USHUAIA, ARGENTINA – Take a ferry across the Strait of Magellan and visit Ushuaia, the most southern city in the world, and home to penguin colonies. EL CHALTÉN, ARGENTINA – Renowned in the climbing world, this dusty town is a starting point for treks and climbs into the Fitz Roy mountain range. CABO FROWARD, CHILE – This cape is the most southern tip of the South American mainland, accessible via a tough four-day hike. Expect river crossings, high tides and, of course, highly variable weather. adventuramag.ca winter 2013 23

SOCK IT TO ME

ARE YOUR LITTLE PIGGIES FEELING THE CHILL OF WINTER? CHECK OUT OUR FAVOURITE PICKS IN PERFORMANCE SOCKS FOR THE SEASON. WHETHER YOU’RE HITTING THE HILLS, THE ROADS OR THE TRAILS, THERE’S SOMETHING TO MAKE EVERY SPORT MORE ENJOYABLE. YES, THEY’RE A BIT MORE EXPENSIVE THAN YOUR AVERAGE ATHLETIC THREE-PACK, BUT TRUST US, YOUR FEET WILL THANK YOU.

BY STEPHANIA VARALLI

COMPRESSION

If you’re already sold on the benefits of compression – enhanced blood circulation, reduced cramping, help with recovery, to name a few – then you’ll love this winter version. The EC3D Bhot Compression sock adds merino wool into the mix, providing warmth and antimicrobial properties. There’s also a shin protector, arch support and padding in the heel and toe (which is seamless for extra comfort). Plus, the company is Canadian – so you know they understand the demands of a Canadian winter. EC3D, Bhot Compression Sock | $65 | ec3dsports.com

SNOWBOARDING

Icebreaker are experts with merino wool, and this natural wonder-fibre is already a perfect fit for snow sports: It’s warm, odour-resistant, antimicrobial and breathable. With their Snowboard+ Mid Over the Calf socks, Icebreaker has taken all these benefits and put them into a design that’s specifically made to fit a snowboard boot. The anatomical toe box has an anti-blister seam, and there’s strategic cushioning for a smoother ride, plus added support at the Achilles and instep. Since they’re available in fun, striped colours, you’ll be making a statement off the slopes, too. From calf to toe, you’re all set for shredding. ICEBREAKER, Snowboard+ Mid Over the Calf | $32 | icebreaker.com

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DOWNHILL SKIING

The Darn Tough Function 5 socks are named after the five comfort pads strategically placed where you need them: on the most common pressure points found in ski boots. So you can avoid shin bang thanks to extra cushioning, reduce hill lift with Achilles padding, and protect the top of your foot from second-buckle pressure. Personally, we’d rename the sock the Function 8, since they also offer the natural warmth and antimicrobial properties of merino wool, the trademarked TRUE SEAMLESS undetectable toe seam, and they’re guaranteed for life. What more can you ask for? DARN TOUGH, Function 5 Padded Over-the-Calf Cushion | $27 | darntough.com

RUNNING

If you’re already familiar with Balega running socks, you’re probably a big fan of their signature sensitive rib top. This comfort feature crosses over into the winter season with their Merino Enduro Quarter. The design combines South African Superfine merino fibres with technical moisture-management yarns, so you’ll be able to enjoy a warm, comfy ride even if there’s a chill in the air. They also feature a hand-linked toe closure, as well as a reinforced heel and toe for durability. BALEGA, Merino Enduro Quarter | $17 | balega.com

NORDIC SKIING

What’s so smart about Smartwool’s PHD Nordic Light? It’s all in the construction: They’ve used a patent-pending process that puts more wool in high-impact zones to increase durability and comfort. Plus, they’ve added bands around the ankle, instep and arch, providing a secure fit without sacrificing movability. The merino wool keeps you warm, while mesh zones provide needed ventilation while you’re pushing hard on the trail. SMARTWOOL, PHD Nordic Light | $29 | smartwool.ca

CYCLING

In the fastest stage ridden in the history of Italy’s Giro d’Italia, it was a pair of DeFeet Cyclismo socks that crossed the line first. While donning them can’t guarantee you international fame in the sport, you can be confident knowing that you’re using the same technology as the professionals. The high-end sock is engineered specifically for cycling – with details like a strategically knit pad in the critical zone between the sole and pedal contact point – and the wool version is made for winter, for all those dedicated riders ready to brave a chilly route. DEFEET, Cyclismo Wool 5” | $18 | defeet.com

HIKING

How durable are Keen Olympus socks? They’re guaranteed for life. High-tenacity nylon fibres in the heel and toe provide abrasion resistance where you need it most. And just because they’re tough doesn’t mean you have to compromise on comfort: The heel-hold cup construction keeps your heel secure, the seamless toe avoids bunching and chafing, a ventilated mesh panel adds breathability and the contour arch support and impact cushioning keep the ride cushy. So if you plan on heading out on the trail – again and again and again – start with a pair of socks that can handle as much as you can. KEEN, Olympus Medium Crew | $25 | keenfootwear.com

adventuramag.ca winter 2013 25

LESS HEAVY, MORE HEAT

BY TRAVIS PERSAUD

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t let winter weigh you down! These lightweight jackets will keep you warm as you conquer the great outdoors.

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2-ODIN H2 FLOW JACKET

If you’re worrying about dramatic temperature swings during your next adventure, then the Odin H2 may be the right shell for you. Helly Hansen’s H2 technology both insulates and ventilates, depending on your needs. Purposely placed holes in the interior layer activate the power of negative space – air is captured in this layer, which holds on to your own body heat. But if you begin to boil over, you can open the side zippers, turning the holes into ventilation channels. Cool air can rush in, and heat and moisture are able to escape. The H2 system also reduces weight by up to 30 percent. It’s the jacket for every “what if?” situation. HELLY HANSEN, Odin H2 Flow Jacket | $400 | hellyhansen.com

3-SILVER BULLET JACKET II 3

While the official description may designate this jacket for winter running, the Silver Bullet is versatile enough for most of your outings this winter. The major highlight is the aluminum membrane that lines its insides, trapping your body heat to keep things toasty as you’re moving. The outer shell is windproof, waterresistant and breathable, and the jacket features a nifty moisture-proof pocket for your iPod or music device. BROOKS, Silver Bullet Jacket II | $170 | brooksrunning.com

4-BETA LT

For over a decade the Arc’Teryx Beta AR has proven itself as a dependable jacket for heavy-duty fun. The Beta LT borrows from that DNA, dropping about 100 g in the process – without sacrificing protection. GORE-TEX Pro, and a supple face fabric that’s treated with a durable water-repellent finish, ensures that it’s completely waterproof. However, while no water will get in, the breathable fabric will allow your body to stay regulated when you’re really pushing it. The hood is helmet-compatible and the jacket is cut for optimum comfort. This is your new do-everything shell. ARC’TERYX, Beta LT | $520 | arcteryx.com

5-THERMOBALL FULL ZIP

This is the offspring of ingenuity. The North Face teamed up with insulation giants PrimaLoft and conceived a new type of synthetic insulation that soars well above the others. The idea sounds simple on paper: Make the synthetic fibre clusters mimic down clusters. Makes sense, right? Well, that simple idea created ThermoBall. It’s been rated to have the same warmth as 600-fill down, and maintains the light-as-a-feather attribute of the natural insulator, yet will retain its loft in wet-weather conditions. So you know you’re not getting cold on the hill, and you’ll stay dry even on day seven of your epic winter backpacking trip. THE NORTH FACE, ThermoBall Full Zip | $230 | thenorthface.com

6-KNIFEBLADE

1-GHOST WHISPERER

Mountain Hardwear couldn’t find what they wanted, so they created it. For two years the brand worked at building a fabric that could withstand the unforgiving elements, while remaining ultra-light and incredibly strong. The result is their Ghost Whisperer fabric – so intricate that only one mill in the world is able weave it, and so light that you barely know it’s there. It weighs in at just over seven ounces, making it the lightest full-featured down jacket around. Under the Ghost Whisperer fabric you’ll find 850-fill Q.Shield down – specially treated to withstand moisture and retain its loft. Plus, the fabric’s super-tight weave is naturally windproof and water-repellent. MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR, Ghost Whisperer Down Jacket | $320 | mountainhardwear.ca

Take to the mountain with confidence. Patagonia uses Polartec Power Shield Pro fabric for their Knifeblade jacket, providing the durability of a hard shell with the lightweight properties of a soft shell. The tightly woven material can withstand the normal abrasions you’ll encounter scaling your next big challenge, but is soft and smooth to keep things comfy. The Knifeblade uses three layers that offer breathability, water resistance and wind protection. Need to stretch, or, more importantly, grab something sturdy above your head? Well, the brand’s nifty Modified Y-Joint sleeve construction glues the jacket to your sides while allowing for maximum mobility – no exposed skin to deal with! PATAGONIA, Knifeblade | $450 | patagonia.com

7-ALPINE REFUGE

The Co-op strips this storm shell down to the essentials, made to keep you light and nimble for your next trek. The stretch fabric combines with an inner hydrophilic membrane that’s soft to the touch, breathable and pulls sweat and moisture away from your skin. Small touches, such as the felt chin guard and accent colour on the elbows, add style and comfortable functionality. And while the Alpine Refuge is a scaled-back shell, it still offers three well-placed pockets, including a chest pocket that the jacket can fold up into. It’s the perfect set-it-andforget solution. MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP, Alpine Refuge | $250 | mec.ca

Are you

BY SHELAGH MCNALLY

For some of us, winter brings on a hibernation that quickly turns into a limbo state. Lethargy gradually settles over our entire life like a blanket of snow; we lie listless in bed, feeling blue, waiting for spring, munching on sweet carbs and gaining weight. Winter makes us SAD.

28 winter 2013 adventuramag.ca

Seasonal affective disorder (SAD) is a mild depression that starts in September when the days become shorter. As winter progresses, so does SAD. It’s estimated that from six to 20 percent of the population suffers from this condition, whether it’s a mild version or something more serious. For many years, people suffering from winter depression were expected to just tough it out. But with its inclusion in the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders, medical professionals have slowly begun taking SAD more seriously. “Primary-care physicians are so variable. Some are just wonderfully well-informed, whereas others just don’t believe in SAD,” said Dr. Norman Rosenthal, currently a senior researcher at the National Institute

of Mental Health and clinical professor of psychiatry at Georgetown University. Over 30 years ago, Rosenthal moved from South Africa to become the chief resident at Columbia Presbyterian Hospital and the New York Psychiatric Institute. When he found himself suffering from winter depression, he began his research and eventually his team came up with the name that so aptly describes the condition. He remains a leading expert on SAD. While the causes of SAD are not fully understood, there is a connection with our circadian rhythms as well as melatonin and serotonin levels. Winter’s lack of sunlight disrupts our body’s internal clock, messing up hormone production and eventually creating depression.

where people have breakfast while getting their recommended dose. In Umeå, 500 kilometres north of Stockholm, there is one hour of sunlight per day during winter. Recently the city installed anti-SAD lighting in 30 bus stops, all powered by renewable energy. In Denmark, any student suffering from winter depression can borrow light therapy lamps free of charge from student services. From an early age, Norwegians are trained to watch for symptoms of winter depression, and everyone has a daily spoonful of cod liver oil for the omega-3, a major component in battling SAD.

Studies have found that boosting levels of polyunsaturated omega-6 and omega-3 fats can help with SAD. Omega-6 fatty acids are found in corn, safflower, soybean and sunflower oil; omega-3 fatty acids are found in fish oil, nuts, seeds, flaxseeds, soybeans and canola oil. The Mediterranean Diet, high in omega-3-rich foods, vegetables and fruit, but low in saturated fats from meat, may also help. Researchers are now pointing to countries such as Iceland and Japan, which have a diet rich in fish and low levels of SAD.

Melatonin is the hormone regulating our natural sleep-wake cycle. When the sun goes down, our pineal gland begins producing melatonin. Over the 12-hour night cycle, melatonin levels rise, and we become less alert, eventually falling into a deep sleep. Melatonin is the Dracula of hormones – as soon as sunlight hits our body, it disappears. During dark winter months with reduced sunlight, we do not have a chance to burn off excess melatonin. Researchers also believe that winter triggers our pineal gland to produce more melatonin, thereby making us feel sluggish. The opposite happens with serotonin – exposure to sun increases this hormone connected to mood, well-being, appetite, learning and sleep. A study by the Baker Research Institute in Melbourne, Australia, found that serotonin was directly related to the amount of bright sunlight received. Long, dark winter days lower our serotonin levels, affecting our moods, making us feel sad and listless, with a poor appetite. We start craving carbohydrates rich in tryptophan, the amino acid responsible for starting the production of serotonin. Binging on carbs while having no energy is not a good scenario anytime of the year, but SAD is also accompanied by feelings of irritability, anxiety, despair and low self-esteem. Fortunately, there is a drug-free treatment plan developed by Rosenthal and his colleagues.

Light therapy is usually the first course of treatment. The easiest way is to get outside into the sunlight. Strapping on the cross-country skis or snowshoes may be one of the best ways to combat SAD. So is leaving town to head south for sunnier climes. When these solutions are not viable, there is light box therapy. Light boxes and lamps emit 10,000 lux (the unit used to measure intensity of light); outdoor light offers much more, but the average indoor lamp gives off a meagre 700 lux. The recommended dosage is 30 to 60 minutes a day in front of the lamp. Results are noticed within three to four days. Steve Nador, president of Northern Light Technologies, started selling light boxes 25 years ago and has seen his business change in recent years. “Definitely more consumers are buying the lights themselves. When we first started, many medical professionals considered the lamps some kind of bizarre therapy. After 300 to 400 medical trials showing positive results, doctors began prescribing light therapy for SAD,” said Nador. “Canada is starting to catch up with other northern countries, although Scandinavia is still years ahead of us.” Our northern cousins have come up with some creative solutions to combat SAD. In Stockholm, Sweden, there are light therapy cafés

Another remedy is St. John’s Wort, a proven herbal helper for mild depression. The usual dose of 900 mg daily seems to hold off some of the more crippling symptoms of SAD. Exercise, especially in the morning, is also a huge help as it stimulates production of antidepressant compounds. The best remedy? The end of winter! Courage: Spring will arrive eventually. Be sure to consult your doctor before taking any of these supplements, or if your symptoms of SAD worsen. A doctor may prescribe an antidepressant for severe cases.

ARE YOU SAD?

Symptoms of seasonal affective disorder include: • Low energy • Sleeping more than normal • Lack of concentration • Change in appetite – either overeating or low appetite • Craving carbohydrates or sugar • Feelings of despair • Anxiety, sadness or irritability • Tearfulness • Reduced sex drive • Depression • Social withdrawal

adventuramag.ca winter 2013 29

LAST CALL

30 winter 2013 adventuramag.ca

THE WHEELER HUT

In winter, getting to the Arthur O. Wheeler Hut in B.C.’s Glacier National Park involves skiing along a road for 1.5 km. It’s tucked away in a safe area away from avalanches, which makes it an excellent and convenient place for a stag party or other celebration. But venturing anywhere beyond the hut requires significant avalanche training and experience. Mountaineers often head to the Asulkan Hut, perched at an altitude of 2,100 metres, to propose. From there, couples can ski or board anything from moderate to extreme lines to their hearts’ content. The hut belongs to the Alpine Club of Canada but is not reserved for members. In summer, you can drive right to it from Rogers Pass. The hiking is simply spectacular, and it is not uncommon to come across the same couples you’ve seen here before, often visiting with their children. – Patrice Halley, photographer The Tools: NIKON D300, 16mm f/2.8 lens, ISO 400, f/4, 1/6 second

adventuramag.ca winter 2013 31

BIOM HIKE

WINNER OF THE 2 0 1 3 S C A N D I N AV I A N OUTDOOR AWARD

BIOM HIKE is a rigorous all-terrain boot that takes the traction of a world-class hiking boot and combines it with our NATURAL MOTION速 capabilities. Features include an anatomical rounded heel and forefoot, responsive low-to-the-ground construction, aggressive traction and an almost barefoot feel.