ECUADOR
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NEW YORK
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VIETNAM
No. 3 Winter 2017
RED LLAMA Follow us around the globe
E S I N T I
S M Y C K E N
PEOPLE Pam Meyer
Meet the jewelry maker from N e w Yo r k p. 26
Ve n e z u e l a – a country in crisis José & José escaped Ve n e z u e l a p. 40
Mitad del Mundo
V i s i t L u z M a r i a ’s s h o p o n the equator p. 36
The street artist from Buenos Aires Meet Mateo Franco, a passionated street artist p. 12
Fågel Blå
A Swedish café in Osaka p. 8
TRAVEL Halong Bay
Visit one of the wonders of the world - in Vietnam p. 18
Quilotoa
SPECIAL Recipes
Bake yuca bread from Ecuador p. 34
Comfy flying
Climb down a volcano crater and visit indigenous people p. 47
Make your flying experience more enjoyable p. 53
The Amazon
Scared of flying?
Insects, tribes and Shamans - an adventure in the tropics p. 54
Papallacta
Soak in hot springs p. 70
Cotopaxi
Discover vast landscapes, wild horses and volcanoes from horseback p. 74
Find the calm before your flight p. 22
// EDITOR’S COLUMN //
Uddevalla, January 2018 Even from the beginning I could vividly sense how Ecuador was something extraordinary. We had planned a long journey to the country on the equator, the whole family was going. The year was 2004 and I was twelve. The smallest country in South America, but also a country with its own micro climate. You can find both the mountain range the Andes, the biggest rainforest in the world, the Amazon, a very long coastline, active volcanos and maybe also the world’s friendliest people. The Ecuadorians are famous for their hospitality, something I got to experience for myself the first time I visited the country. As soon as I came back to Sweden I wanted to go back. It would take twelve years.
We were greeted by friendly people who wanted to know where we came from. The feeling of being back again was incredible. The feelings that I had been carrying inside for all these years, about Ecuador being a safe and friendly country with rich culture and versatile landscapes remained the same. Ecuador had indeed aged well.
Early morning, the fifth of November, 2016, I landed at the La Mariscal airport together with my husband. We had rented a room in the capital and the following morning we started to explore the city. We walked for a while and came across a market. We bought fresh pineapple (I had been dreaming of it), coffee and newly baked bread.
Matilda Lopez Nobel
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In Red Llama number 3 you get to meet my Ecuador, visit indigenous people in the Amazon, ride in the Cotopaxi national park (where the highest volcano is) and also get to know interesting and friendly people from other parts of the world. Enjoy!
// LONDON//
Try something new in London London offers a huge selection of restaurants. But for those who wish to try something other than Fish and Chips and Sheppard’s pie, we have two great ideas for you. Choose Turkish food one day and a luxurious gourmet dinner the next.
The Wolseley – the celebrities favorite The Wolseley is a well-known restaurant that attracts both tourists and celebrities. The restaurant is a popular spot for big names such as Daniel Craig and Kit Harington (which we encountered during our visit). You are met by a noisy but cozy hall, initially built as an exclusive display room for cars. We had booked a table for 9 pm. Since the table wasn’t ready for us on time the waiter apologized with a bottle of champagne. On the set menu there are delicacies such as oven steaked chicken with ratatouille, veal liver, entrecote and grilled fish – all presented in a tasteful manner on large, white plates. The mashed potatoes was one of the best I’ve ever had. It had just the right amount of buttery taste that the homemade always have. Where: 160 Picadilly, St Jame’s Food: Gourmet food, both lunch, afternoon tea and dinner is served Price: Middle – expensive
Liman Restaurant – Turkish food in a homely environment Eating at the Liman Restaurant is almost like eating at a friend’s place. The environment is cozy and noisy. The friendly waitresses and the happy chefs give an impression of being a family. The walls of old bricks are decorated by cozy lights. We order meze (small dishes) as a starter – well seasoned hummus, oily olives, tabbouleh and freshly baked bread. For the main dish some of us ordered the traditional kebab (and it doesn’t disappoint anyone), coal grilled lamb with a delicious smokiness and fried salmon that almost melted in the mouth. Finally we order the popular baklava which has a lovely glace of honey, and what a finale! Where: 60 Penton Street, Angel Islington Food: Turkish Price: Middle
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Café Fågel Blå A Swedish café in Japan
In a street corner just a few blocks away from the vibrant city center of Osaka, there’s a little café, Fågel Blå. This Swedish café is located approximately 8 000 kilometers from Sweden. Meatballs and lingonberry are served here every day during the hectic lunch hour and freshly baked cinnamon rolls are handed out to excited Japanese, just as it would in any café in Sweden. “What is this place”, we asked ourselves as we suddenly saw the Swedish flag hanging outside.
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// FÅGEL BLÅ // JAPAN //
Happy faces at Fågel Blå!
Do you want to visit Fågel Blå? 1 Chome-12-9 Uemachi, Chuo Ward Osaka, Osaka Prefecture 540-0005 Japan Telephone +81 6-7177-1873 Skype meeting with the owner.
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The atmosphere is homely and through the speakers Swedish pop artist Veronica Maggio sings about Stockholm as we walk through the door at Fågel Blå a sunny spring day in April. “Irrashaimase”, welcome! A younger woman greets us with a big smile as we head up to the menu. It’s in Japanese, without translation. The woman at the counter explains the today’s menu in English and I go for a classic – meatballs! “Good choice”, the woman says and shows us to a table. Just like everything else in Japan, Fågel Blå is a tiny place with room for no more than 16 guests. The walls around us are decorated with traditional Swedish wooden horses and paintings of Prinsesstårtor (typical Swedish cake) and it’s hard not to get a little homesick. We ask the for the owner because we want to interview her. After a while we see an an older woman sitting alone with papers and pens spread around the table and think to ourselves it must be her. “Good day!”. We greet each other in English and the woman smiles. We ask her if she prefers Swedish or English, she says they’re both fine. During our conversation the woman seems a bit confused with our questions and she have to ask the staff all the time. After about 15 minutes the younger cashier lady approach our table. “She is not the owner here, she’s just a customer”. Everyone is laughing and the cashier explains that the older woman takes Swedish classes here, hence her Swedish. The young woman calls the real owner over Skype and on the screen we meet a Swedish looking guy in his mid-thirties and a Japanese woman in a similar age. The couple, Andreas and Chiaka Jansson, met in Stockholm but decided to go back to Japan to open this café. They’ve been running this place since 2012. They tested their idea to open a Swedish café and the response has since the beginning been very positive. The Japanese people love Swedish food, especially “pytt-i-panna” (a traditional leftover dish with potatoes, meat, sausage and beetroot). They change the menu every week but the cinnamon buns are always available. I take a waffle myself and it tastes just like at home. Every week Fågel Blå are filled with Japanese customers who want to practice their Swedish or just enjoy a good meal but also by Swedish tourists that stumble across the little café and are longing for a Swedish fika. Fågel Blå is very small, but it’s a popular meeting point for Sweden enthusiasts – in the middle of Japan. 10
// MATEO FRANCO // ARGENTINA //
In the heart of Ecuador you’ll find the cozy town of Baños de Agua Santa. The city is surrounded by high mountains and is located in the shadow of the active volcano Tungurahua. The city is commonly known as “the last city before the Amazon”, since many travel tours to the jungle start from here. We spent a whole month here and got to know many interesting people, one of them is the street artist Mateo Franco.
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Who is Mateo Franco?
A normal day for street artist Mateo Franco.
m o r f t is t r a t e The stre
s e r i A s Bueno
We met him for the first time when he was singing some lovely, down beat songs, in a restaurant. We became friends shortly after. In true Swedish tradition, we invited Mateo for a coffee at a café and talked about life, his career and his dreams.
Mateo is a musician who plays guitar and sings at restaurants, in bars and at cafes all over the city of Baños. He feels genuine, both in his singing and in his way of being. It is this that hits me with Mateo, his warm and welcoming personality. Even though we just met he immediately felt like a friend, someone you’ve known for a long time. He is talented, something you can tell directly when he starts to sing. Mateo Franco comes from Argentina and has slowly but surely made his way here to Ecuador. The journey has lasted over a year, but it’s long from over.
Why did you become a street artist? “For the art. For love”, he says. Because he can’t live on his music back home. It all started as dream to be a conductor and lead a choir in front of a big audience. He studied various classes in music, took many lessons, but everything led up to a big anticlimax, unemployment. Even though Mateo faced many setbacks, he refused to let go of his dream. And by now, the dream had changed a little bit. The thoughts of becoming a conductor was gone. The only thing he wants now is to be able to live on his music, in one way or another. He decided to go on a tour and travel to different cities in Argentina, only with his guitar and a small bag. “It sounds crazy, right?”, he laughs. He still can’t believe that he dared to leave everything behind and just go, but he did it without hesitation. 12
www.alchemyjewelrybrooklyn.com
// MATEO FRANCO // ARGENTINA //
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ateo went from hostel to hostel and persuaded the owners to let him live there for free in return for his music. He slept well, ate good food and played guitar. He felt appreciated. Sometimes he was even able to save up some money. Slowly but surely he started to work his way closer the Argentinian border. But then he returned to the capital. He had made it, he reached his goal. Mateo could live on his music, even though it wasn’t much to live on. ”This is many years ago”, he explains. Since then he has not only been on many tours, he’s also found love and now has a daughter. The sad part is that Mateo hasn’t met his daughter yet, only seen her in videos and photos. She was born when Mateo was touring abroad and he still hasn’t returned back home. It’s a thought that makes him both sad and happy. Sad because he’s missed an important moment in his life, happy that he has a family to return to. To make the decision to go on tour, even though he knew that he would miss the birth of his first child, was tough. He missed the life on tour and knew that both him and his family was going to need the money he earned. He has now set up a moneysaving goal that he wants to reach before he begins the long journey home. It is more than 5 600 kilometers from Baños de Agua Santa in Ecuador to Buenos Aires in Argentina and every day it feels as if the distance grows even larger. His homesickness burns in his heart.
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E S I N T I
S M Y C K E N
www.esinti.com
// HALONG BAY // VIETNAM //
Halong Bay 1st of April 2017
The alarm went off at 7 am as I reached for my sweatpants. Sitting on the side of the bed I could see the sunrays find their way through the transparent curtain and I knew we were lucky. The past days had been nothing but rain and thunder. Grateful for good weather I woke my husband Patricio and we headed down to the kitchen for coffee. At 07:55 the receptionist called us as the travel agency had arrived for pick-up. The bus ride was fine, not much to see but our guide insisted on telling us the story about every bridge, road and quarter as we left the old quarters of Hanoi behind us. Tired after weeks of work I fell into slumber. Patricio woke me up as we were getting close to Halong Bay. And with words I cannot describe the spectacular view I saw through the dirty windows in the bus. Towering limestone pillars and tiny islands that rise high out of the water, like a palette of blue and steel – this was Halong Bay and I was very excited. Halong Bay has since 1994 been a World Heritage site, and no wonder why. This place is absolutely stunning. The hundreds of islets covered in green, dense forest, truly is a vision of ethereal beauty. During millions of years the water has formed the rocks which resulted in different formations and deep caves. One of these caves, Sung Sot, is very big and almost looks as if it has been carved by man. The walls inside are smooth and there are formations inside that could be statues.
The Vietnamese flag.
12:16 – Arriving at the archipelago After arriving safely at the harbor we entered our boat for the day. The staff greeted us welcome with big smiles as we got seated inside. Lunch was served. Plate after plate of seafood, fried chicken, spring rolls and rice was brought out to the tables. Even though the food was at most mediocre, I was too busy even reflecting on that. I had my focus behind the curtains, through the window glass. We were here, in the middle of Halong Bay. The captain steered the boat out on the bay, trough the small passages. The 1 969 tiny islands emerge from the ocean everywhere and they form something like a labyrinth. I swallowed the last bite of my spring roll filled with vegetables, and went up to the deck. The sun blinded me as I climbed the narrow steps of the ladder. The deck was already filled with tourists, eager to take selfies of themselves with a big smile and a rock formation behind. I’m not going to lie, I did the exact same thing. 18
// HALONG BAY // VIETNAM //
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fter cruising for more than an hour we slowed down. We were getting close to the floating village. People still live on Halong Bay and they have built pontoons everywhere. Here most of the people work with tourism. We went ashore on the rickety bridge and looked around with awe. Little kayaks were floating nearby and we approached a lady with a traditional Asian colonial hat. She took us around the bay onboard on her little boat. The bay was beautiful, so calm, quiet and relaxing. The lady on the kayak was troubled by her sore hands and I offered to paddle the kayak for a bit. “No, sorry, my boss...”. Poor lady, I thought, trying to still enjoy the view.
20:30 – Back to Hanoi After 4 hours bus ride from Hanoi to Halong and then another 4 hours back, I was pleased to enter my hotel room. This day had been one of the most amazing ones so far.
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Halong Bay.
FLoating Village
Unique cave formations.
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Scared of flying? Glass-shaking take-offs, turbulent landings and the never-ending journey that never seems to be over. Are you just like me, scared of flying? I too have a lot of anxiety when it comes to flying, even though I rise 10 000 meters above the ground, many times every year. I have found some tricks to help ease my fear, maybe they can be of help for you as well.
// SCARED OF FLYING //
1 week before take-off I usually make an effort of thinking positive thoughts about the journey one or two weeks before. I think about all the fun things that lies ahead of me when I reach my destination and about the flight itself. Why not imagine this: Its cozy! Try to imagine how to make your seat even cozier by adding a nice blanket and a pillow and lots of tasty snacks. What type of snacks will you bring? Buy your favorite candy or a good magazine and think about all the interesting on-flight entertainment. If you’re flying longer distances there’s a good possibility that the aircraft have some of the latest movies. Enjoy the food! The food on-board some airlines are actually really good, especially at Turkish Airlines and Singapore Airlines. Maybe you want to enjoy yourself some grilled chicken, or what about vegetarian food? Who knows, there might even be some sparkling wine available. Spoil yourself. Time to unwind! When you’re onboard you might as well take time to relax, there’s not much more to do when you’re high above the clouds. Try to appreciate these things, for example your boss can’t reach you, instead you could read a good book, do some crosswords or play cards with your on-flight friend. Still biting your nails at the thought of flying? Why not start to plan your trip? What’s the first thing you will do when you arrive? A dip in the ocean, shopping in New York or buy some local food at a street corner?
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1 day before take-off Flying is for some people the worst thing in the world. Because of this it’s really important to give yourself time before take-off to relax and calm your thoughts. Be kind to yourself and spoil yourself. The day before take-off is usually a very tough day for me and maybe for you as well, but try to find a moment to relax. Here are some ideas: Invite a friend for a cozy home spa! Light some candles, put on some relaxing music and talk for hours. Cook your favorite dish! Your last night before take-off should be exceptionally nice. Why not cook your best recipe or order a take-away pizza to eat in front of the telly? Before bedtime it’s always good to make preparations so everything is ready for the next morning. Take out your outfit you will be wearing and make sure your hand luggage is packed with everything you will be needing for a comfortable trip. A good idea is to write a checklist of things you mustn’t forget (phone, passport and money).
Take-off day Palms are sweaty and the heart is rushing – take-off day is usually very nervous and tough, but try to calm yourself and take it easy: Put your alarm a bit earlier if possible. Then you’ll have more time and won’t have to stress to the airport. Since you have already prepared your outfit you can just get dressed and relax with a cup of coffee or tea. Take it easy – you will be just fine! You do know that flying is the safest way of transport, don’t you? Check page 53 for more suggestions about how to make the flight more comfortable.
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r e y e M Pam
AN ARTIST WITH AN E U Q I N U E EYE FOR TH
as we go upstairs ak ue sq ey th d an d ol e The steps ar e in Atlantic Avenue in in the old apartment hous lives and works the artist r oo fl p to e th On . yn kl Broo r. There is something ye Me la me Pa r ke ma y lr we and je with this, very charming and unique h district. from the beginning, Dutc
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// PAM MEYER // NEW YORK //
“Three stylish models are walking down the street with earrings and necklaces from her jewelry collection”
Many years ago this neighborhood was for the working class and was considered a rough area. Today, Brooklyn is one of the most attractive places to live in New York. There is a big difference to the tall skyscrapers that penetrate the inner city. The low-rise buildings give somewhat a “small town-feeling”, even though it is a large district.
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welcomes am is dressed in black from top to toe. She boxes, tools us in to a room filled with little small zed chaos. This and other things. It looks like organi workshop. Pam apartment is both her home and her we ask her why has lived here for over 25 years and she decided to live in Brooklyn.
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more accepting “It’s the free spirit, all the artists and the so superficial mentality”, says Pam. “People can be on Manhattan”. and judgmental in New York, especially of the nicest When Pam was 24, she worked in one Big celebrities hotels in the city, Saint Regis Hotel. e. “Working at such as Salvador Dalí often stayed her d it”, since Dalí the hotel was tough, but I really like talk to him and often stayed at the hotel, Pam would sations might his wife. She wonders if these conver why she decided have been an important inspiration to jewelry brand. to follow her dreams to create her own
“Pretty soon I noticed that art , and especially jewelry, was my big call”. My first big col lection was for a clothing company. I made jewelry in neon colors and with a big 80’s feel”. Pam shows us a poster hanging in the cluttered studio. Three stylish mo dels are walking down the street with earrings and nec klaces from her jewelry collection. The fashionable and big hairstyles of the models breath 80’s vibe. Slowly Pam developed her jewelry brand and her business grew bigger. For a while she had a large company with several employees. Her compan y, Alchemy, was selling jewelry all over the world. Pam is very proud over the company name as it embodies her design style and life philosophy. Pam recycles, transf orms and renews. She takes broken stuff, picks apart the pieces and creates something new. Her collectio n has gone from trendy plastic jewelry in neon colors to creative jewelry in different metals including bolts and other mechanical items.
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// PAM MEYER // NEW YORK //
Some of Pam’s latest creations, robot-inspired jewelry. 29
end put and t a h t h s a r art of the nancial c p fi e e g r h t la d ra e 2008 an to be let er but fo Then cam g. Not just for h d, employees had hin ase to everyt eople. Sales decre in the company. p ne n America tually she was alo t for en there. Bu d e d go and ev n e . e v lternative could ha a y n r a o r t e s v e e people th ing was n at was in For many g the jewelry mak what a renewal th s tin me ken piece o r b e h t Pam, quit rary, it became so ea e took nt of life. Sh ing new, this tim y h p On the co o s o Pam meth her phil reated so . Slowly but surely to c line with d n a y cient mpan s a pho of the co nd a bit more effi ain. She shows u from er a mpany ag one of the photos o c bit small r e h n d rebuil ell-know 2014. In w m e o h r t f begun to , r e e Magazin ney Weav of Sigour w with Gotham racelets. vie ’s b her inter aring one of Pam we actress is
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// PAM MEYER // NEW YORK //
Even though Pam hasn’t been able to return to the same level as before, she is happy. She follows her dream and no matter how the journey turns out, she does not seem to regret it for a second. She works with something she loves, she meets new people and continues to follow her dream. Later on, I am struck by the idea that the company name may be a tribute to Paulo Coelho’s book “The Alchemist”. In this story, the shepherd of Santiago is literally following his dream, a journey lined with both peaks and valleys, before he finds out that the treasure he dreamed of was already in his home. The metaphorical similarities with Pam and her life is striking.
”Remember your dreams and fight for them. You must know what you want from life. There is just one thing that makes your dream become impossible: the fear of failure.” -
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The Alchemist
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// RECIPE // Yuca bread is a traditional bread from Ecuador. It can be made in various flavors and with different ingredients. We got to bake a traditional yuca bread when we visited the indigenous people in the Amazon, read it in page 63. Now we’ve tried another recipe of the famous yuca bread, this time stuffed with melty cheese! It’s best enjoyed with a cup of hot chocolate á la South America!
2 cups of yuca flour 4 cups of mozzarella cheese (you could pic another cheese as well or/and add bacon, peppers or another favorite ingredient) 1 tsp baking soda 0,5 tsp salt 120 g butter 2 eggs 0,2 – 0,4 cups of water or milk (add this if the dough feels to dry)
Put the oven on 400 F. Mix the yuca flour with cheese, baking soda and salt. Add butter and eggs, mix well. Knead the dough until it’s smooth, add more water if needed. Make small buns (it’s around 30 – 36 buns), put them on a oven sheet with baking paper. Bake in the oven for about 5 – 7 minutes, then start the grill function in the oven and bake for a few minutes (the buns should have a golden color). Take the sheet out and let the buns cool.
te a l o c ho c ca i t r o e H m A h t u o S ĂĄ la 1 litre of whole milk 0,4 cups of cream (unwhipped) 1 chili 100 g of dark chocolate
Heat the milk and the cream in a saucepan. Dice the chili and remove the cores. When the milk is getting warm, add the chili and the chocolate. Let the chocolate melt and the chili sim for about 5 – 10 minutes. Remove the chili and taste the chocolate. Pour in a cup and enjoy!
hot? Like it e dried m Add so es! ak chili fl
Full recipe for yuca bread + instruction video: www.laylita.com/recipes/pan-de-yuca-pan-queso/
Mitad del Mundo middle of the earth One of the most photographed places in Ecuador is Mitad del Mundo, the actual place of the equator. In this place you can be photographed while posing with one foot on the south part of the globe and the other one on the north.
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ore than 250 years ago, French scientists estimated that the equator was positioned right here. They marked the place with a thick line. Since then thousands and thousands of tourists have come here to do something so unusual as to stand on both the south and the north half of the globe at the same time. This was something that we also wanted to do, and we decided to go on a little trip to San Antonio de Pichincha. The small town is positioned around 25 kilometers north of Quito, the capital. There are many buses going from the capital, but we decided to take a cab for about 10 dollars. San Antonio de Pichincha is a sleepy community with one bank office, a few restaurants and some houses. The big attraction here is Mitad del Mundo, the center of the world. Within the area are an ethnographic museum called the Center of the World, a somewhat 30 meters tall monument, restaurants, tourist shops and a planetarium. And then the thick yellow line of course, which marks the actual equator.
As soon as we’ve paid the entrance fee we start walking towards the tall building. The monument is decorated with a huge globe at the top. The geographical direction is marked on each side of the monument, S for South, N for North. Just like all the other tourists we too pose with one foot on both side of the equator. It feels a bit special, to have the whole world under our feet. Even though Mitad del Mundo is very touristic with its restaurants and souvenir shops, it’s calm and relaxing to be here. We hear traditional music from some of the shops, the typical pan flutes and the drums. We enter one of the shops and are greeted by an older woman, Luz Maria. She has been working here for over 25 years, today she’s 71 years old. Most of the handicrafts that she’s selling is made by herself, including keyrings, ponchos and dolls. “I’ve sewn and embroidered the dolls myself ”, she proudly says. Luz Maria takes down a dusty diploma from the wall. To Luz Maria for her work to embellish Quito and enrich our culture, it says. It’s from the municipality. “I received the diploma when I had my shop in Quito, here I use my dolls as decoration”.
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// MITAD DEL MUNDO // ECUADOR //
Luz Maria tells us about an increasingly tough competition. “At the beginning there were many tourists from South America, the business went well. But shortly after more and more people started to open their own shops and it became very difficult”. During the 25 years that Luz Maria has had her shop in Mitad del Mundo the competition has become harder and the tourists fewer. The exchange rate from the Ecuadorian sucre to the American dollar made prices rise in the whole country. This made people scared and they shopped less. “It’s less business now than it used to be, but I still like it”, she laughs. And nevertheless the shop stills brings good income to the family. “Thanks to that I was able to send my daughter to university”. Before we leave the shop something strange catches our eye – shrunken human heads. “It was a special war rite that some Indian tribes used to perform, cutting the heads of their enemies”, says Luz Maria. These heads, however, prove to be artificial, luckily.
“It was a special war rite that some Indian tribes used to perform, cutting the heads of their enemies” We buy some postcards and are just about to leave when Luz Maria suddenly tells us that Mitad del Mundo in fact is not on the equator. When we google it later we find out she’s right. Modern satellite systems show that the real equator is located about 240 meters north of the yellow line. Outside the shop it’s warm and sunny and we order a freshly pressed juice at a nearby café. While sipping our juice we watch some Ecuadorians dance in traditional folk costumes. Nearby there’s some sleepy lamas grazing on the field. The life of Luz Maria is not uncommon in Ecuador. Most of her life she’s worked hard from early morning until late at night, often seven days a week. On our way back to Quito our taxi driver Rodrigo tells us that his work days are 13 hours. Neither Rodrigo or Luz Maria get paid when they take vacation. For both of them the motivation has been to put their children in school. For us it seems a hard way of life, but both Luz Maria and Rodrigo seem content and happy, they’re grateful for earning money, even though it’s not much.
FACTS Mitad del Mundo is situated in the small town of San Antonio de Pichincha, about 25 kilometers north from Quito. Entrance fee: Around 6 $ Ecuador is the smallest country in South America, located between Colombia and Peru. 38
Venezuela
a country in crisis During our travels in Ecuador’s big cities, we have meet several amazing people who shared their life stories with us. Even though we traveled in Ecuador many of the people we met came from Venezuela.
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did not know much about the country before our travels, only that there had been a crisis with many demonstrations. I had no idea what disastrous state the country was in. At least not until I began to talk to the Venezuelans themselves. Everything began with a visit to a hairdresser. The man who cut my hair was a happy and social guy from Venezuela. He chatted, joked and talked through the entire cut. Between the laughs and the conversation, we began to talk about our homelands. He described the beautiful beaches and turquoise waters of the Venezuelan islands, the big city festivals, the good food and the exotic landscape in such a way that I could almost feel the sand between my toes and the heat from the sun. It was clear that he missed his country. After a while, the conversation became sadder. “It’s tough in the country right now,” he said, and soon after he started to talk about football instead. We decided to meet the next day to drink coffee.
// VENEZUELA //
Notoriously late! Even though the next day was a holiday and the fact that we had decided to meet in the middle of the day, I had to wait more than an hour for my new Venezuelan friend. Finally, he arrived together with another Venezuelan. Both were in a jovial mood and we talked about a lot of topics like football, food and movies before we finally began to talk about politics and what is happening in the country. “Venezuela is having a tough time”, they say in unison. The country has suffered all sorts of deficiencies. The electricity disappears for long periods of time, making it difficult or impossible to cook food. The previously so cheerful guys are instead low-key and slightly reserved. The smiles and laughter changed to thoughtfulness and reservation. Their eyes look worried. They both talk about how hard the currency crash affected the country. Businesses went bankrupt and the country’s currency, Bolívar fuerte, is not even fit to be used as toilet paper, one of them said. “Nobody wants to get paid in Bolívar, everyone wants American dollars”. Officially, one dollar is worth 6.3 Bolívars and this exchange rate has not changed in a long time. 41
Unofficially, you have to pay 4,300 Bolívars for one dollar, at least according to the black-market rates that were in effect at the end of 2016. They tell me that prices could increase every day, sometimes with as much as double from the day before. A regular monthly salary could be around 40 US dollars. In addition to the low salaries there is hardly any food to buy. The Venezuelan guys paint a scary picture of enormously long queues at the food stores, guarded by armed soldiers. They talk about vast but empty aisles and people who search through other people’s garbage to still their hunger. We also talk about the black markets for food, places where people can trade food and commodities at very expensive prices. The market is controlled by gangs that rob both food transports from humanitarian aid organizations and regular food stores. They also tell me how proud they are that family, neighbors and friends are holding together and sharing their food and their homes to be able to eat and live together. About how they grow food and take turns to watch the crops.
To be able to work outside Venezuela, in a stable economy like the one in Ecuador, is a luxury and they feel grateful for it each day. I ask if they miss home and they do, every day. “It’s hard to call home. My parents are always happy and talkative, but at the same time I know they are suffering in both body and mind. Talking on Skype is the worst, especially when I can see that my parents and siblings have become leaner and thinner”, one of them says. He explains that his family is almost starving because of the political turmoil in the country. “I send dollars when I can but at the same time I need money for myself to live. Mom has never asked me for support but how are they going to buy food without me?”.
“The smiles and laughter changed to thoughtfulness and reservation. Their eyes look worried” Both agree that they will return one day, but not permanently. The future is not in Venezuela. They still feel hopeful, they can still work and save money here in Ecuador. I’m struck of how hopeful and positive despite their big problems and worry about their families.
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// VENEZUELA //
What has happened in Venezuela? Venezuela is a country in northern South America. Hugo Chávez took power in 1998 under the motto “Patria, socialismo o muerte!”, which can be translated into “the motherland, socialism or death!”. Chávez time as president was filled with criticism and scandals. His government was subjected, among other things, to a failed coup in 2002. Under his rule, the country’s economy was strongly linked to the oil resources. During the 2008 financial crisis, oil prices fell and the country’s economy followed. The crisis was the start of all the deficiencies and shortages that would harvest countless victims in Venezuela. When Chávez died of cancer in 2013 it was the vice president, Nicolás Maduro, who won the subsequent election. Unfortunately, the new presidency has not improved the situation so far.
Rainy day in Quito.
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Quilotoa In collaboration with
a
Rebecca dventure Travel
// QUILOTOA // ECUADOR //
QUILO
One of the most stunning volcanoes in South America
OTOA One very interesting thing about Ecuador is the abundance of volcanoes. There are more than 70 volcanoes, many of which offer spectacular scenery. Just five miles southwest of the capital Quito stands the volcano Quilotoa in all its splendor, perhaps the most beautiful in all of South America.
”I noticed that we kept going upwards
all the time. The pressure in my ears increased little by little”
We boarded our bus at 7 pm. The fog was dense as a blanket, making it hard to see to the other side of the street. Today we were visiting the famous volcano Quilotoa with its water-filled crater in the middle of the Andes. The volcano is famous for its beauty. Inside the volcano you find turquoise waters and a dramatic landscape that spreads out like a background painted in watercolors. We wanted to experience this mythical place for ourselves and see if the guide book’s description was true. The journey took just over three hours and it went well. Our guide, Marko, entertained the group with stories about the volcano and the villages we passed. I noticed that we kept going upwards all the time. The pressure in my ears increased little by little. As we approached Quilotoa the fog thickened. Soon it felt like we were in the middle of the clouds. Fortunately for us, the sky began to clear when we turned towards the last little dirt road leading us to the volcano. At this point we were about 4,000 meters above sea level, about 13 000 ft. The weather started to get chilly. I was glad I brought my gloves and hat.
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After a short walk we stood on the rim of the volcano and stared down at the enormous crater. It was filled with turquoise water. The minerals in the water give the lake its peculiar shine and it can even shift color depending on the sunshine. This volcanic lake stretches three kilometers wide and has a depth of 250 meters. The shape of the crater came about when the last volcanic eruption occurred about 800 years ago. Our guide Marko informed us that the walk down to the lake was tough, especially the long walk up again. Obviously, we didn’t pay any attention to his warning, as we had to see Quilotoa from below. We slowly walked down a crooked, sandy road. It took us about 15 minutes to reach the water level. The volcanic lake was completely still, without any ripples on the surface. It was eerily quiet. Eventually some of the people from our group went kayaking on the lake. We walked towards the water and when I put my hand in it, it was cold as ice! After exploring the area for a while it was time to ascend again. Only now did I realize how steep the road was.
// QUILOTOA // ECUADOR //
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I took one step at a time but pretty soon my steps began to get shorter and my speed dropped significantly. Soon enough I was exhausted and had to stop. At this height the air is thinner, and I was having difficulty breathing properly. A quick glance behind me made my heart drop. We had only walked about 50 yards ...
Oh my God! How will I ever get up this steep hill? We continued walking, step by step, breath by breath. When we finally arrived halfway up the mountain side, the sky opened. The rain poured down like a waterfall. The dry and sandy road quickly turned into a flood and the muddy water flushed over our sneakers. Luckily enough we had brought rain ponchos that we quickly retrieved from our bags. Unfortunately, they did not cover our shoes. The cool air and the hard, cold rain whipped our faces as we struggled our way slowly upwards. Despite the cold weather here on the mountain, I was soaked with sweat. The road took about 15 minutes to descend. The climb up the mountain took nearly one hour. When I took the last step up on the rim my body was completely exhausted. We joined our group and took our seats in the hot bus. The rain slammed on the roof. Our adventure did not stop at the volcano. On our way home we visited an indigenous family who lived in a tiny hut with a thatched roof. The family bred guinea pigs which they then sold at the local market. When they opened the door, we saw hundreds of guinea pigs running around on the floor. Inside the hut was completely dark, except for a small candle. There were no lights or windows, only the open door. The family let the animals walk around loose inside the hut because they generate heat, something that is needed when electricity is missing. It was very interesting to get an insight into how life can look for indigenous people in Ecuador. When we eventually returned to Quito, I was still soaked by the rain and tired from the extreme climb. I was also incredibly pleased with the experience. Quilotoa was just as amazing as the guidebooks describe it. 50
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// COMFY FLYING //
Comfy flying
follow our guidelines for a more enjoyable trip Screaming babies, kicking in the back and squeezy, tight seats. Flying might not be the most comfortable of activities, but there are some things you can do to make it more endurable. Follow our guidelines for a more satisfying and less annoying flight. Make sure you’re well rested before your flight, that will make you less prone to shout at the child behind you. Try to imagine your destination and how nice it will be whilst you’re there. Prepare yourself with some of the following stuff – and enjoy your flight! Earplugs – a must in order to prevent tinnitus. On-ear-headphones that reduce the noise and give you an optimized sound experience. Download your favorite podcasts and playlists. Toothbrush and toothpaste – when you want to freshen up. Magazines and books – perfect for zoning out and passing time. Snacks, candy, fruits – you name it! Anything you enjoy nibbling on. Chewing gums – do you too get blocked ears during flights? Well, chewing gums might be your best solution. Warm and cozy socks – you don’t want to sit with shoes on for 11 hours. Why not spoil yourself with some cozy socks? You might just feel as if you were flying business class. Lip balm – a big must! The air on 10 000 meters is very dry, make sure you bring lip balm and body lotion. Compression socks – to reduce swelling of the legs. With just a few simple and cheap means your flight might just be anything you dreamed of!
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The Amazon – a whole new world Imagine a lush green rainforest that’s spread thousands of miles over large parts of South America. Underneath the dense, green canopy where parrots and toucans build their nests, is a whole new world to explore. This was an opportunity for us to get close to an amazing wildlife and ancient culture that we only had heard of and seen bits of on nature programs on TV. This was our chance to see for ourselves the extraordinary insects, mammals and plants that live and thrive i Cuyabeno, a wildlife reserve in northeast of Ecuador.
// THE AMAZON // Day 1 – The adventure begins With the rucksacks packed with insect repellent, snacks, notebooks and camera, we set out late on Monday evening in Quito to take our bus. Down at the Plaza Foch, the bus would take us from the capital of Ecuador, over mountains and through valleys, to Lago Agrio, the capital of the province of Sucumbíos. It was already 11 o’clock at night and we knew the ride would be 7-8 hours long. After a shaky and bumpy hour we fell asleep. When I opened my eyes again it was early morning and the sky was all pink. Through the window I saw swaying palm trees, cows and stray dogs as we drew near the city of Lago Agrio. When the bus finally stopped we got out and were hit by an invisible wall of heat and humidity. Compared to Quito, which has a cool and dry climate, it was quite a contrast to suddenly be in the tropics. After coffee and some scrambled eggs at a nearby café, our tour bus that was going to take us into the rainforest arrived. Our guide Tamara, a friendly woman in her late 30’s, welcomed us aboard the small bus. Except for me and my husband there was a French family with two teenage kids, an Ecuadorian family with their kids and a woman travelling alone from Holland. After greetings we put our bags in the trunk and buckled the seat belts. After a rather rough ride alongside green palm trees and brown rivers, the rainforest began piling up. Like a green, wide carpet that stretches out in all directions, we had reached our goal– the Amazon. A banana cluster in the jungle.
“That the rooms didn’t have any roof in some places didn’t bother us, we were here to explore the jungle after all” 55
A fruit and a flower.
We had a quick lunch of rice, fried chicken, black beans and patacones (a thick slice of platano that has been fried) before we continued our adventure deeper into the rainforest. Since there aren’t any roads to Cuyabeno our new transport was a large motor driven canoe. The trip on the river took two hours and during that time we saw parrots, butterflies large as hands and even a sleeping sloth that was hanging high up in a tree.
In the afternoon we arrived at Dolphin Lodge, our home for the coming days. The accommodation was simple but tidy and our rooms had everything we needed; a comfortable bed with mosquito net, a private bathroom and shelves for our luggage. That the rooms didn’t have any roof in some places didn’t bother us, we were here to explore the jungle after all.
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// THE AMAZON //
A
fter settling in and having a rest the group gathered and Tamara explained to us that we had to hurry a little in order to catch the sunset over the river. Quickly we jumped into the canoe again and travelled on the crooked river for about half an hour. The dense rainforest went all the way down to the waterline. We heard the ghostly roar of howler monkeys, saw bats fly past and lianas dangling as we passed by. Suddenly the jungle opened up and the narrow river transformed into a big lake. The water was tranquil, clear and looked almost sparkling. The sun had begun to sink in the lake and the colors in the sky went from bright blue to purple, pink and orange. Tamara said “Okay, now we will try to spot some of the pink dolphins”. We sat very still in the canoe. After a short while I saw something move under the water surface. “There is one, look!”, said Tamara. The whole group fumbled with the cameras and we all stared wide-eyed on the surface. Suddenly, a short distance from the boat something turned up from the water. A dolphin, a pink beautiful dolphin. It looked around a few moments before it dived under the surface again.
Pleased to have caught a glimpse of the rare pink dolphin I turned my gaze towards the sky. Never before had I seen such a marvelous sunset. In addition to the dazzling colors of the sky, there was something very special about sitting here, in a canoe on the river in the lush Amazon, listening to the water slapping against the canoe and gazing out towards the greenery that spread out like a skyline in front of us. The last sunrays quickly vanished in the water and it was suddenly pitch black. At least for a little while, but soon millions of stars started to light up the night sky. Our canoe driver took us into the narrow river again and we all took up our flashlights. Our guide Tamara had great eye vision, she could spot animals, birds and insects that hid behind branches and leaves. She also seemed to have quite a talent for spotting Caymans in the dark. “There is one, do you see the eyes?”. And indeed, under the surface I saw two glowing red eyes. After about an hour of looking at the Caymans swimming in the water we started heading back to the lodge. On our way back we saw a huge Cayman on the shore, crawling towards the water and smoothly sliding into the water. It was probably two meters long.
Sunset over the Amazon, a spectacular scenery.
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// THE AMAZON // Back at the lodge I was both hungry and tired. After a dinner of asparagus soup followed by rice, fried fish and fresh pineapple, we head back to our room and went straight to bed. As I listened to sounds from the jungle I could not identify, I fell asleep in a few minutes.
“It’s a fungus, it is called the Devil’s penis”, laughed Tamara.
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A mushroom called “The Devil’s Penis”, hence the shape.
Day 2 – Meeting the indigenous community “Today we will go further into the jungle, to a Seoqueya community”, Tamara said. Seoqueya is one of the indigenous people of the Sionas tribe in Ecuador. After about one and a half hour in the canoe we stopped at the shore and stepped out. I was lucky I had dressed in long pants, long sleeved shirt and rubber boots – the place swarmed with mosquitos. During our walk on the Turtle Trail Tamara showed us some plants that were used for medicine, for example to relief pain on wounds. She gave us a leaf each and we smelled it. It had the exact scent of a lemon. >>
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// THE AMAZON //
A
fter walking for a while the Ecuadorian family burst out in laughter. Right on the ground there was something growing that looked very weird, to say the least. “It’s a fungus, it is called the Devil’s penis”, laughed Tamara. After an hour’s walk we arrived at the community. Soaked in sweat and with one or two mosquito bites we stepped out from the forest. In the Seoqueya community we got to meet the indigenous people and one woman appeared with a machete in one hand and a basket in the other. She led the group to some kind of cultivation with small trees and shrubs. She began pulling up thick roots from the soil, and up came yuca, or cassave as it is also called. Yuca looks like large sweet potatoes although the taste is more similar to normal potatoes. This root vegetable is very important as staple food.
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Back in the hut we got to prepare the yuca. First we cleaned the roots, then we teared them in smaller pieces and finally we squeezed them until no water was left. Of the flour that was left, the woman prepared a very delicious bread. It tasted similar to pita bread. After lunch it was time to meet the Shaman. The Shaman is a healer who practice rituals in order to heal people. Becoming a fully trained Shaman takes years, some practice for 80 years. The Shaman that we met was named Aldemar, he was 54 years old and had studied in Colombia. Aldemar was very respected in his village and although the idea of a Shaman is to act as a doctor, the role is so much more. Aldemar is almost like the head of his village, a man who guides his people.
A woman from the Sionas tribe is preparing yuca bread.
After spending the afternoon among the Sionas tribe it was time to walk back to the canoe. It got dark very quick and we had to use flashlights to light our way through the forest. It may have been dark, but is was far from quiet. Insects, howling monkeys and chattering birds kept us company as we strolled along the path. On several occasions a spider’s web was caught in the flashlight and we saw big spiders hanging from strings. We saw both scorpion spiders and tarantulas.
“One woman appeared with a machete in one hand and a basket in the other”
Traditional face painting.
How to make yuca bread: 1. Peele the skin and wash the roots very carefully. 2. Tear the yuca with a grater. 3. Put the meat inside a towel and twist it as hard as you can in order to squeeze all the water out. 4. Heat a pan without oil or butter. 5. Put in the flour and form it to a tortilla bread. 6. After a few minutes, turn the tortilla and let it fry a bit on the other side. 7. Serve with tuna, salad, marmelade or whatever you fancy. 62
// THE AMAZON //
Aldemar, the Shaman in the village.
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Day 3 – Back to reality
the string orchest from a thousand custs accompani me as I got dress
The first morning rays of sunshine streamed in through the hole in the roof and I squinted towards the blue sky. Swaying palm trees moved slowly in the wind and the string orchestra from a thousand locusts accompanied me as I got dressed. I had granola, fresh fruits and yoghurt for breakfast before it was time to leave. During the two hour canoe trip back I kept gazing into the lush forest. We had only been on this Amazon excursion a few days, but I felt I had got a glimpse of a totally new and different world, and I was sad to leave it.
The Shaman’s role is to heal people.
“The string orchestra from a thousand locusts accompanied me as I got dressed”
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// ROSE HIP TEA //
a e t p i h e s Ro They paint the autumn grey day in color, as they shine red in the bushes. We’re talking about rose hip! This time of year there are plenty of rose hip, waiting to be picked, cooked and enjoyed. One simple way of taking advantage of nature’s healthy ingredients is to dry rose hip berries and use them as tea. Here’s a simple recipe from algomin.se!
Divide all the rose hips in two and let them dry, for example on a newspaper. After a few days they will start to dry and shrink. When they’re hard you can store the berries in a glass jar. Whenever you feel like having a cup of warming tea, you just take a few rose hips and put them in a tea strainer and let them soak in the boiled water for a few minutes (after taste). You can also mix r eg u l a r tea with th e ros e h ips f o r a different flavor.
Natural vitamins Did you know that a cup of rose hip tea equals the same amount of C-vitamins as 35 – 40 oranges. That’s what I would call natural vitamins!
g n o m a s i s a o An s d u o l c the
High in the Andes, wrapped in fog and clouds, lays Papallacta. The health resort is located approximately 50 kilometers east of the capital of Quito and is more or less a deserted town. This place is inhabited by 530 people, around two people per square kilometer. Still the area attracts many visitors, because of the hot springs.
// PAPALLACTA // ECUADOR //
do you want to visit Papallacta? Termas Papallacta http://www.termaspapallacta.com Telephone: (593-2) 2568989 termasuio@termaspapallacta.com Standard room: $158/night Room with jacuzzi: $200/night Get here: Taxi from Quito: around 30 $
Waterfalls and rivers flowing down to the hot springs.
T
he journey from Quito takes around two hours. We’re sitting in the backseat and are gazing out at the exciting landscape. First its mainly mountains and narrow curves, but then the higher we get, the more of the capital thrives underneath with its white houses and mountain areas. After just over an hour the view begins to hide in thick, white fog. It, however, does not seem to worry our taxi driver, instead he is increasing the speed. With music in my ears and the white clouds outside, I rest against the window and zip up my jacket. It’s getting cooler. Since Papallacta lays so high in the mountains, the annual temperature is around four degrees Celsius, but that doesn’t matter much since the locals get warm in the hot springs. We too booked a night at the health resort. When we finally arrive we are shown to our room. We had “accidently” booked a little cabin with a huge jacuzzi. The entrance to the cabin is just two meters from the hot spring. The jacuzzi does not feel like a necessary thing anymore. After quickly changing into swimming clothes, I put one foot into the water. It’s really hot! I have to get in slowly in order to get used to the heat. Slowly but surely I’m in the hot spring, leaning against the stone wall – ah, it’s lovely! There’s nothing to complain about regarding the landscape. Sloping green hills, cows grazing and big trees. And thick, white clouds, they seem to embrace the whole area in a big, fluffy cover. It’s Christmas Eve today and the cold weather bring my thoughts to Sweden, where it’s winter now. I close my eyes and enjoy the moment, the heat from the water and the dreamy landscape.
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Coto A Home for
opaxi wild horses
// COTOPAXI // ECUADOR //
Our vaquero for the day. Vรฅr guide fรถr dagen.
Wild horses, a common sight in the Cotopaxi national park. 75
A dramatic landscape with volcanoes and green hills.
Cotopaxi is a volcano in Ecuador, and not just any volcano, it is the highest and most active in the whole world. The last eruption occurred in August 2015 and ceased in January the following year. After the outbreak it took over a year before the National Park would open again for tourism. Luckily the park is as astonishing as ever before and offer outstanding views over the mountain peaks, volcanos and the green stumps.
Cotopaxi r e v o c s Di back on horse To discover the national park’s deep valleys and winding mountains along with the local vaqueros, which is the Latin American version of Cowboys, is fully possible. A good idea is to book a “Shared Cotopaxi horseride tour”. There are many different travel agencies who offer the opportunity to explore the nature from horseback. We chose to book one of those tours and to our excitement we happened to be alone with our vaquero. Whenever you think of Ecuador, it is the Galapagos islands that usually appear in the mind, but actually the highlands of Ecuador is just as spectacular. The nature is characterized by the dim-capped mountains, the green hills and the calm and quiet surroundings.
Amazing scene ry all the way t o the volcano The bus ride to the national park was anything but boring. The road was lined with steep hills and deep valleys and over the edge you couldn’t see anything but the dense fog. The last part of the trip, just before we arrived at the park, was very different in the scenery. Instead of dense fog the landscape suddenly revealed itself and the mountains appeared. For as far as we could see there were volcanos and mountains everywhere and soft grassy hills covering the grounds. Far in the distance we could even see wild horses. They raised their heads for a swift moment to look at us before continuing grazing.
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// COTOPAXI // ECUADOR //
Wild horses from the conquistador era The wild horses that we had spotted were actually not natural in their surroundings. They were brought here by the Spanish conquistadors during the 16th century. They originate from the horses that managed to escape the Spaniards. Today there are several small flocks scattered around the wide nature area. It is more common to see the wild horses during this tour than not too. We were dropped off at an old hotel with red wood facade, the only building in the area. We met our guide here, a vaquero who lives and works with the wild horses. He introduced himself and our horses for the day. It is a very special feeling to ride on the ancient paths. The green grass spreads out like a sea and in the horizon only the high mountains, the volcanos, and of course, Cotopaxi itself. Early on our quiet guide got a feeling that it would rain so we were handed a thick poncho each. His premonition turned out to be correct, because just 30 minutes into the tour the heavens opened itself and it started to pour down. The heavy rain did not bother us since the view and the feeling was just as spectacular. When we returned to the hotel we were soaked and we waited for the tour bus inside. In here we got a cup of hot chocolate and sat in front of a warming fireplace. Cotopaxi is a must for anyone visiting Ecuador, no matter if you’re an experienced rider or if it’s your first time on a horse.
Patient horses waiting for the next tour.
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THANK yOU! As always, it was incredibly fun to make another number of Red Llama, something that would not be possible without all the exciting, interesting and friendly people we encountered during our travels. With that said, we would like to thank: Pamela Meyer www.alchemyjewelrybrooklyn.com Mateo Franco Facebook: @Mateofrancomusico Luz Maria Fågel Blå Facebook: @FagelBla Rebecca Adventure Travel, Quito www.rebeccaadventuretravel.com Leonardo Jozé Leonardo Gonzalez
... And of course - a big thank you to you our beloved readers. Hope you keep following us on our new adventures!
LOPEZ
NOBEL
Text, photo & layout Red Llama is produced by Matilda & Patricio Lopez Nobel. Please visit our webpage, www.lopeznobel.se, here we continuously upload new photos, articles and blog posts. You can also find us on social media Instagram: @lopeznobel Facebook: @lopeznobel
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