The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Magazine

The

ECOCHIC DESIGN Award 2013

the future of fashion january 2014

the ecochic design award 2013 衣酷適再生 時尚設計 2013 This publication was proudly created by Redress 本刊由 Redress 榮譽製作 2406, Nine Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong 香港中環皇后大道中 9號 2406 室 +852 2861 0360 info@redress.com.hk www.redress.com.hk Magazine Editorial & Production 編輯＆製作 Chief Editor 總編輯: Christina Dean 丁潔絲 Features Editor 特刊編輯: Hannah Lane 林禾雅 Creative Director 創意總監: Sofia Tarneberg Chinese Editors 中文編輯: Stephanie Gladys Tang 鄧樂童, Trazi Chui 徐婷姿 Circulation and Marketing 發行與市場營銷: Trazi Chui 徐婷姿 Designer 設計師: Bernita Ling 凌子柔 Researcher 研究人員: Karen Lau 劉欣婷 Production Manager 製作經理: Gabi Kozicki Production Assistant 製作助理: Adrienne Chiu 丘惠怡 Cover photo by 封面圖片由: Luke Casey Illustration by 插圖由: Lisanne Lambert-Stoop The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Photoshoot 衣酷適時尚設計2013 攝影集 Stylist 造型師: Denise Ho Photographer 攝影師: Tim Wong Make up artist 化妝師: Denise Toms Hair stylist 髮型師: Marco Chan Production Manager 製作經理: Gabi Kozicki Production Assistant 製作助理: Adrienne Chiu 丘惠怡 Fashion Coordinator 時裝統籌: Kay Liu 廖詠芝 Shoes by 鞋子由: Melissa The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Main Partners: 「衣酷適再生時尚設計」主要夥伴 Major Sponsor 主要贊助: Create Hong Kong 創意香港 Platinum and prize Sponsor 白金及獎品贊助: Esprit 思捷環球 Silver and prize Sponsor 銀及獎品贊助: John Hardy Silver Sponsors 銀贊助: Miele, Vincent & Lily Woo Trust 吳文政 及王月娥信託基金， Miele Bronze Sponsor 銅贊助: ADM Capital Foundation Hotel Sponsor 酒店贊助: The Upper House 奕居 Logistics Sponsor 物流贊助: DHL Media Partners 媒體夥伴: ELLE Hong Kong, Taiwan & Singapore, Modern Weekly, Ecouterre.com | ELLE 香港，台灣 及新加坡、周末畫報及Ecouterre.com The Government of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region provides funding support to the project only, and does not otherwise take part in the project. Any opinions, findings, conclusions or recommendations expressed in these materials/events (or by members of the project team) do not reflect the views of the Government of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region. 香港特別行政區政府僅為本項目提供資助，除此之外並無參與項 目。在本刊物／活動內（或由項目小組成員）表達的任何意見、 研究成果、結論或建議，均不代表香港特別行政區政府的觀點。

contents 篇目

5 7 8 12 15 18

Editor’s Letter 編輯的話

44 47 48 52 54 58

The EcoChic Design Award 2013 International Judging Panel 「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013 國際評審

18 19 24 27 32 37 42

Create Hong Kong 創意香港 Wall of Waste 廢牆 Road to the Final 踏上總決賽之路 The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Finalists 「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013 總決賽者 Sustainable Frontline 可持續先驅 Hong Kong 香港 Mainland China 中國內地 Taiwan 台灣 Singapore 新加坡 UK 英國 France 法國 Germany 德國

The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Prizes 衣酷適再生時尚設計 2013 獎項 Refueling the Fashion Industry 為行業加油 Alumni News 歷屆參賽者訊息 What’s Next - 2014 新動向 The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Partners 「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013 合作夥伴

www.ecochicdesignaward.com

Printed on 100% recycled paper

The positive power of fashion

Redress is an NGO with a mission to promote environmental sustainability in the fashion industry by reducing textile waste, pollution, water and energy consumption. We work along the fashion supply chain to achieve this and our work is grouped into four key programmes; The EcoChic Design Award, The R Cert, Consumer Campaigns and Industry Engagement.

Collectively, our four key programmes cover a sustainable fashion design competition, a recycled textile clothing standard, workshops, clothing campaigns, fashion shows, exhibitions, seminars and research.

Redress 是一個非牟利團體，致力透過減少浪費紡織品、污染、 節約用水及節省能源，推動時裝業的可持續發展。我們與時裝供應 鏈合作以達到目的，而我們的工作可分為4大項目: 「衣酷適再生時 尚設計」、The R Cert、消費者項目和業界參與。總括來說，我們 的4 大項目覆蓋了可持續時裝設計比賽、循環再造紡織衣物標準、 工作坊、衣物項目。時裝表演、展覽、講座和研究。

www.redress.com.hk

Redress is a non-profit partner of 1% for the Planet Redress 是 1% for the Planet 的非牟利合作夥伴 www.onepercentfortheplanet.org 4

Editor’s Letter 編輯的話

You’ve got to love change.

The fashion industry thrives on change. But now it needs seismic change to reduce its environmental impact, because what was yesterday a cherished, creative and cultural industry is today an over-producing, over-consuming and over-polluting industry.

We are seeing positive changes as sustainability enters designers’ studios and the industries’ major players’ boardrooms and factory floors, catalyzed by the need for a less polluting fashion industry.

We have played a prolific role in propagating sustainable design practices to emerging fashion designers through The EcoChic Design Award, our sustainable fashion design competition challenging designers to cut waste out of fashion.

The EcoChic Design Award has grown rapidly. We are in our fourth cycle in three years since launching in Hong Kong in 2011 and we now target designers from Hong Kong, Mainland China, Taiwan, Singapore, UK, France, Belgium and Germany, with thanks to our major sponsor, Create Hong Kong.

Our rapid progress is matched by the increasing environmental need as discussed on page 8. Meanwhile, innovation is taking place from East to West as designers and multistakeholders embrace education to fuel a change towards greater sustainability as explored on page 48.

This magazine celebrates the positive changes occurring across the industry. We are honoured to introduce our current finalists on page 15 and celebrate select Alumni for their continuing progress on page 52.

Collectively, these designers represent the change-agents to lead the future industry towards sustainability. On page 54, industry experts provide optimism and insight through their predictions for the road ahead.

But we recognise that our mission – to reduce waste in the fashion industry – is far from over. We salute those travelling with us and call for others to join this journey. Together we can cut waste out of fashion.

我們都愛變化。 時裝業從變化而生。但從前 我們珍愛的創意文化產業，現今 變成一個過度生產、過度消費、 過度污染的行業。現在，時裝業 需要巨大變化，減少對環境的影 響。 為了減少時裝業造成的污染， 設計師和行業人士對可持續發展 日漸注重；我們目睹業內越見積 極的變更。 透過舉辦名為「衣酷適再生 時尚設計」的可持續時裝設計比 賽，我們扮演重要角色，向新 晉時裝設計師宣揚可持續設計實 踐，挑戰設計師減少時尚浪費。 「衣酷適再生時尚設計」於 2011年首次在香港舉行，感謝主 要贊助商創意香港的幫忙，令比 賽三年內增長迅速，現已進入第 四個週期。目標參賽者為香港、 中國內地、台灣、新加坡、英 國、法國、比利時和德國的設計 師。 我們日益進步是因應第8頁討 論的迫切環境需要而生。與此同 時，東西各地的設計師和多方持 份者創新變法，擁抱教育，以探 索在第48頁提及的變化，推動和 實現更廣闊的可持續發展。 這本雜誌慶祝整個行業積極正 面的轉變。我們很榮幸在第15頁 向大家介紹今屆比賽總決賽者， 以及在第52頁探討幾位歷屆參賽 者的進展。這些設計師象徵著變 更，帶領時裝業走向可持續的未 來。在第54頁，業內專家通過他 們對業界的預測，為前方道路提 供了樂觀的展望。 但我們意識到，我們的使 命—減少時裝界的浪費 —還未結 束。我們向使命一致的各界人士 致敬，並呼籲更多人加入這個旅 程。只要齊心協力，我們必定可 以減少時尚浪費。

Christina Dean Founder and CEO, Redress

丁潔絲 創辦人及行政總裁, Redress

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CREATE

Hong Kong To embrace an environmentally-sustainable culture in our daily life is not only a virtue but a must, because we need to save our Mother Earth for the sustainability of human kind. Industry can do its part by minimising adverse impact on the environment, such as reducing waste, conserving energy, etc. To give more incentive to industry, stakeholders in the design field have been leading us to turn trash into treasure, in turn bringing new business opportunities to industry.

Redress has been a forerunner in promoting sustainable fashion by annually organising The EcoChic Design Award. Since its inauguration in 2011, the Award has introduced the concepts of zero-waste design, upcycling and reconstruction in the fashion supply chain. It has also successfully nurtured many local young talents in the field of sustainable fashion. This year, I am most delighted to note that Redress has brought a global perspective to the Award, enabling designers from Asia and Europe to share insights in sustainable fashion.

Such meaningful cause has the full support of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region Government, and we are most delighted that Hong Kong has served as a base for the promotion of sustainable fashion.

I wish the event every success, and all participants a most inspiring experience.

Jerry Liu Wing-leung Head, Create Hong Kong Hong Kong Special Administrative Region Government

把環境可持續發展的文化融入日常生活中，不單是一種 美德，更是不可或缺的，因為我們要拯救大地，讓人類 得以延續發展下去。工業可用減廢、節能等等的方式為 環保出一分力，盡量減少對環境造成的不良影響。為了 鼓勵業界積極參與，設計業內人士已率先嘗試把「廢 物」變成「寶物」，為工業帶來嶄新的商機。

一年一度的「衣酷適再生時尚設計」的主辦機構 Redress，向來是推動可持續時裝設計的先驅。自二零 一一年首度舉辦比賽以來，零廢棄、升級再造和重新構 造的設計概念已注入時裝的供應鏈，並且在可持續時裝 設計領域內，成功培育了不少本地年青設計師。今年， 我很高興看到Redress在比賽中引入國際視野，匯聚亞 洲及歐洲的設計師，彼此分享對可持續時裝設計的真知 灼見。如此有意義的項目當然得到香港特別行政區政府 的鼎力支持，而最值得大家欣慰的是，香港已成為推廣 可持續時裝設計的基地。 謹此祝願「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013圓滿成功，並希 望所有參賽者從中得到寶貴的經驗。 廖永亮 創意香港總監 香港特別行政區政府

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wall 廢 of waste 牆

T

here is a wall of textile waste forming. It is fed from textile waste that flows from factories and cascades from closets. This wall reflects a contrasting image to the flashy images that ooze from pages of glossy magazines and off the catwalks. This wall has size and impact.

The total annual generation of all types of textile waste in China is estimated to be more than 20 million tonnes 1. European Union consumers discard 5.8 million tonnes of textiles every year 2. Closer to home, an average of 217 tonnes of textiles are dumped into Hong Kong’s landfills every day 3 representing approximately 9083 discarded garments entering into Hong Kong’s landfills every hour 4.

The need to combat this textile waste is as real for the environment as it is for the economy.

Textile production results in drastic natural resource depletion and it causes serious environmental pollution, with The World Bank estimating that 17-20 percent of global industrial water pollution comes from the treatment and dyeing of textiles. With textile production being so polluting, such high waste numbers are even more unpalatable. Textile waste represents lost economic value, with reports estimating that China’s potential textile waste market value may be as high as RMB60 billion5.

As a result, we are seeing a growing artillery of waste-reducing initiatives developed by fashion designers, brands and industry. These multi-stakeholders are making their own dents in the wall and are further driven by the need to protect their bottom lines and 1 2 3 4 5 6

to promote ‘better’ business practices.

Fashion designers play an important role in reducing textile waste. An estimated 80-90 percent of the environmental and economic impact of a product is determined by the designer6, so what they may lack in size, compared with the giants of the mass fashion and textile industries that spurt pollution on Hong Kong’s doorstep, designers make up for in power. Emerging designers in The EcoChic Design

The ‘Recycled Collection by Esprit’ range is made using recycled textiles, which were created by recycling Esprit’s own textile waste from their own supply chain. H&M, M&S and Puma have developed take-back campaigns for consumers to drop off unwanted clothes in-store so as to increase postconsumer clothing waste reduction.

The broader industry is getting engaged, albeit sporadically. Many textile manufacturers, including

The EcoChic Design Award Grand Final China 2012

Award reduce waste by eliminating waste at the design stage, through zero-waste design, and by using textile waste in their garments through up-cycling and reconstruction (see overleaf). Notable established designer, Orsola de Castro, successfully up-cycles textile waste through her brand, Reclaim to Wear. Her larger-scale textile waste up-cycling collection collaborations with other brands, such as Topshop, Tesco and Speedo, demonstrates the wider viability of upcycling in the mainstream fashion market.

Several brands are working at different stages along the supply chain to reduce textile waste.

Central Textiles, Crystal Group and Yagi & Co., have developed exciting ranges of recycled yarns and textiles to soak up fibre and textile waste, without compromising quality.

Whilst these examples demonstrate positive initiatives to reduce textile waste, greater efforts across the supply chain are urgently required. The wall of waste is continuously growing, given the fashion industry’s rapid cycles and consumers’ lust for fast fashion trends.

But if we can see the wall as an opportunity and not an obstacle, then we are halfway towards winning the battle.

China Association of Resource Comprehensive Utilization, 2013 European Commission Environmental Protection Department, Hong Kong, 2011 This approximation was made on the estimation that 50% of all textiles entering Hong Kong’s landfills are used clothes and that each garment weighs 500g.

China Association of Resource Comprehensive Utilization, 2013 Graedel et al, 1995

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紡

織廢料正在形成一堵牆。它是由 工廠廢棄的紡織廢料和從衣櫃丟 掉的衣物堆積而成的。與雜誌光潔頁 面和時裝表演上華麗的影像相比，這 堵牆反映了截然不同的形象。這堵牆 有著規模和影響。 據估計，中國每年生產超過2000 萬噸所有類型的紡織廢料 1 。歐盟消費 者每年丟棄580萬噸紡織品 2 。我們的 城市香港平均每天傾倒217噸紡織品到 堆填區 3 。換言之，香港人每小時丟棄 約9083件的衣服到堆填區4。 打擊製造這種紡織廢料不僅有助環 境，更有著經濟含義。 紡織品生產導致天然資源大幅度枯 竭，造成的環境污染令人擔憂。世界 銀行估計，全球17至20%的工業水污 染來自於紡織品處理和染色。眼見紡 織生產污染情況嚴重，如此龐大的垃 圾量更是令人不快。紡織廢料代表失 去的經濟價值，有報導估計，中國紡 織廢料的潛在市場價值可能高達人民 幣600億5。 有見及此，我們看到越來越多時裝 設計師、品牌和有關行業發展減少廢棄 的方法。多方持份者都在努力削弱這一 堵牆，進一步保護環境的底線，並促進 更好的商業實踐。 有見及此，越來越多時裝設計師、 品牌和有關行業正發展減少廢棄的方 1 2 3 4 5 6

法。多方持份者都在努力削弱這一堵 牆，進一步保護環境，同時促進更好的 商業實踐。 時裝設計師在減少紡織廢料方面有 著重要的作用。據估計，一件產品對環 境和經濟的影響，其中80到90%是設 計師所能左右的 6 。與香港製造污染的 時尚和紡織行業巨頭相比，設計師或 許缺乏勢力，但卻能以滿身動力彌補不 足。參與「衣酷適再生時尚設計」的 新晉設計師在設計階段透過零廢棄設計 消滅浪費，並以升級再造和重新構造， 充分利用紡織廢料設計服裝，減少浪 費。（見下圖）著名設計師Orsola de Castro的自家品牌Reclaim to Wear回 收紡織廢料作升級再造。她與其他品 牌，如Topshop、Tesco和Speedo合作 推出規模較大的紡織廢料升級再造設計 系列，展示了升級再造在主流時尚市場 的潛力。 雖然這些例子演示了積極減少紡織 廢料的措施，但時裝界的快速循環和消 費者對潮流的渴求令廢牆持續增長，整 個供應鏈必須盡更大努力，迫切需要改 變。 但是，如果我們能把這堵牆看成一 個機會，而不是一個障礙，那麼，這場 戰鬥我們已取得一半成功。 幾個品牌沿著供應鏈的不同階段減 少紡織廢料。「Esprit循環再生系列」

使用從自己的供應鏈回收的紡織品， 再造成全新服裝。 H&M、瑪莎百貨和 Puma亦已開發回收活動，消費者可在 店內捐出多餘的衣服，減少消費後的 服裝廢料。 儘管零星，更廣泛的行業現亦跟 上回收再造潮。許多紡織品製造商， 包括香港中央紡織有限公司、晶苑集 團和八木香港有限公司，已經開發各 類型再生纖維及紡織品，希望在質量 不妥協的前提下，吸納纖維和紡織廢 料。 雖然這些例子演示了積極減廢的措 施，但時裝界的快速循環和消費者對潮 流的渴求令廢牆持續增長，整個供應鏈 必須盡更大努力，改變的需要仍然急 切。 但是，如果我們能把這堵牆看成一 個機會，而不是一個障礙，那麼這場 戰鬥，我們已取得一半成功。

中國資源綜合利用協會，2013 歐盟委員會 香港環境保護署，2011 估算香港堆填區中50%的紡織品為舊衣服，每件衣服的重量約500克。 中國資源綜合利用協會，2013 Graedel等人，1995

The EcoChic Design Award applicants used one or more of the sustainable design techniques: 「衣酷適再生時尚設計」的參賽者使用一種或以上的可持續設計技術:

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Zero-waste is a design technique that eliminates textile waste at the design stage.

Up-cycling is the recycling of a material into a product of higher quality.

零廢棄是一種在設計階段消除紡織 廢料的設計技術。

升級再造是指把物料回收再用，並 改造成更高價值的產品。

Reconstruction is the process of making new clothes from previously worn garments or preformed finished products. 重新構造是指利用已穿過的舊衣物 或預製成品製造新衣服的過程。

ONE OF A KIND, ONE PIECE AT A TIME, EACH BY HAND.

THE LANDMARK • LEE GARDENS TWO • LANE CRAWFORD IFC MALL • LANE CRAWFORD CANTON ROAD

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Road to the final 踏上總決賽之路 Educating emerging designers

Launching the competition

教育新晉設計師

比賽開始

In May 2013, we kicked off our forth competition cycle with our media briefing tour in the 2013 competition’s eight regions, reaching 200 print, online, radio and TV media representatives with our ‘cut waste out of fashion’ message. 在 2013年5月，我們展開了第4個比賽週 期，在8個地區進行媒體發佈會，講解2013 年比賽概要，與多達200個印刷、網上、廣 播和電視媒體代表接觸，傳遞「減少時尚浪 費」的訊息。

In April 2013, we launched our online ‘Learn’ platform to educate designers and applicants with concise content to develop their skills in sustainable fashion. Eight months on and our videos have been viewed over 4000 times as we extend our reach to designers across the world. 我們在4月推出了網上「學習」平台，以 簡潔內容教育設計師和申請人各種可持續 的設計技術。8個月內，我們的短片瀏覽 次數多達4000以上，足以顯示世界各地設 計師對我們的關注。

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接觸新晉設計師 In April and May 2013, we presented educational briefing lectures to over 1075 fashion design students at 22 universities across the competition’s eight regions to inspire the hearts and minds of tomorrow’s fashion industry.

2013年4月和5月，我們在8個地區共22所大學 舉辦教育簡報講座，為超過1075名時裝設計學 生進行講解，激發時尚產業未來的棟樑。 12

創造時裝表演系列 From September to November 2013, the eight finalists transformed their minimal-waste design concepts from their applications into reality in preparation for the Grand Final fashion show. 從2013年9月至11月，8位總決賽 選手將減少時尚浪費的設計理念 化為現實，為總決賽的時裝表演 做好準備。

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Local judging 本地評審

Reaching Emerging designers

Creating collections

Following the competition closing date of 15 August 2013, we worked with our eight local judging panels, comprising of 24 industry experts, who judged the online open applications to select their top 21 semi-finalists for the next round. 在2013年8月15日比賽截止後， 我們與8個本地評審團的24個行業 專家，為網上申請評分，選出最 優秀的21位參賽者晉身下一輪的 準決賽。

5 Semi-final judging 準決賽評審

In September 2013, we entrusted our five international judges who assessed the 21 semi-finalists and shortlisted these down to eight finalists for the final stage of the competition.

2013年9月，我們委託5位國際 評審，評估21位準決賽入圍參賽 者，從中選出8位總決賽選手參 與比賽最後階段。

building porfolios

建立個人設計作品集系列 In December 2013, we photographed our eight finalists’ selected designs at The Upper House in Hong Kong to help build their sustainable design portfolios and to showcase their sustainable designs under an illustrious light.

2013年12月，我們在香港奕居拍下8位總 決賽選手的設計，以助他們建立可持續設 計作品集，為其可持續設計增添光采。

展出參賽者設計

來港參賽

In mid January 2014, we whisked our eight finalists to The Upper House in Hong Kong for their exciting and demanding week of sustainable fashion immersion and to explore Hong Kong’s diverse creative influences. 在2014年1月中旬，我們把8位 總決賽選手帶到香港奕居，開展 一星期既刺激又要求嚴謹的沉 浸式教學，讓他們了解可持續時 裝，並探討香港多元化的創意。

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Exhibiting their designs

coming to hong kong

From January to March 2014, we will present an educational competition highlights exhibition, which will tour back to the eight finalists’ home regions to engage with consumers about sustainable fashion and to spread the positive power of fashion further.

2014年1月到3月，我們於8位總決賽選手的 所在地區推出教育展覽，展現比賽亮點的同 時，讓選手與消費者接觸，推廣可持續時裝 和進一步傳播時裝的正能量。

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8 9

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Learning from the experts 向專家學習

On 13 and 14 January 2014, we organised an intensive two day sustainable fashion event, called The Redress Forum. On day one, together with Miele and UK’s Textile Environmental Design, we challenged our finalists and local designers to address sustainable consumer care through their design choices. On day two, we gathered industry professionals to discuss the future of fashion at Hong Kong Fashion Week, supported by Hong Kong Trade and Development Council.

2014年1月13至14日，我們舉辦了一個為期兩天密集式的可 持續時尚研討會，名為Redress論壇。論壇第一天，我們與 Miele公司以及英國的Textile Environmental Design挑戰總決 賽者和本地設計師，以他們的設計宣傳可持續消費護理的觀 念。論壇第二天，我們在香港貿易發展局的支持下，召集業 內專業人士，在香港時裝週上一同探討可持續時裝的未來。

crescendoing on the catwalk 總決賽時裝表演

On 15 January 2014, we open the catwalk for the competition’s crescendo as our eight finalists present their much-awaited competition collections at HKTDC Hong Kong Fashion Week in their bid to win careerboosting prizes.

2014年1月15日，我們8位總決賽選手於香港貿易發 展局舉辦的香港時裝週中，展示期待已久的比賽設計 系列，爭取有助事業發展的獎品。

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Introducing The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Finalists

「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013總決賽者介紹

The EcoChic Design Award is a sustainable fashion design competition inspiring emerging fashion designers and students to create mainstream clothing with minimal textile waste. For the 2013 competition cycle, applications were open to emerging fashion designers with up to 3 years industry experience, and living in Hong Kong, Mainland China, Taiwan, Singapore, UK, France, Belgium or Germany. 「衣酷適再生時尚設計」比賽舉辦目的旨在啟發新晉亞洲時裝設計師及學生，以最少浪費創造符合大眾市場的設計。 在 2013 年比賽週期，申請開放給 擁有不超過 3 年時裝設計經驗，居住於香港、中國內地、台灣、新加坡、英國、法國、比利時和德國英國的申請人。

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Alex Law, Hong Kong 羅錦安 香港

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Catherine Hudson, UK 英國

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Xinyan Dai, Mainland China 戴歆彦 中國內地

Tsung-Chin Chiang, Taiwan 姜宗瑾 台灣

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Phee Ng, Swee Yee, Singapore 吳瑞億 新加坡

Clémentine Sandner, UK wildcard* finalist 英國

Louise de Testa, France 法國

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Karen Jessen, Germany 德國

*We opened one additional ‘wildcard’ position in the final round because none of the Belgian-based applicants reached the competition’s criteria. *由於比利時申請人並未能達到比賽最低評審準則，因此我們將該空缺預留給其他賽區的申請人。

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Up-cycled paneled coat made with secondhand carpeting and denim production surplus. Designer: Alex Law 結合二手地毯和工廠採集剩餘的牛仔，重新升級再造雙道飾縫的大衣。時裝設計師: 羅錦安 Stylist 造型師: Denise Ho, Photographer 攝影師: Tim Wong, Make up artist 化妝師: Denise Toms, Session hairstylist 髮型師: Marco Chan

alex law hong kong finalist

羅錦安

香港總決賽者 Alex is currently working as a fashion graphic designer in Hong Kong. In 2013 he graduated with a Higher Diploma in Fashion Design from the Hong Kong Design Institute.

For his The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Collection, Alex combined zero-waste, up-cycling and reconstruction design techniques to create new outfits using leftover textiles and finished clothing samples sourced from a factory in Hong Kong.

“Everyone has a pair of jeans but few are aware of the immense environmental impacts of denim production. A lot of heavy metals and chemicals are used to dye denim, which damage the environment and affect human health. However, denim is a durable, heavy-duty fabric that is perfect for recycling and reconstruction. For this reason, I think denim should be a prime concern when designing sustainable fashion.” 羅錦安畢業於香港知專設計學院，獲頒發時裝設計及開發高級 文憑，目前在香港從事時裝平面設計工作。 關於他「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013 的參賽系列，羅錦安從學 院和香港一家工廠採集剩餘的紡織品，並結合零廢棄、升級再 造和重新構造的設計技術，創造煥然一新的服裝。 「每個人至少都有一條牛仔褲，但很少人知道生產牛仔布對環 境有著巨大的影響。染牛仔布需要用到大量的重金屬和化學物 質，因而破壞環境，影響人體健康。單單在中國珠江三角洲， 每年已產出二億條牛仔褲，令珠江染成了黑色。雖然牛仔褲造 成很多污染和破壞，但牛仔褲在時裝界佔很重要的角色，有人 甚至認為牛仔褲是永遠的潮流。然而，牛仔布是一種耐用的重 型織物，是回收和再造的最佳物料。出於這個原因，我覺得牛 仔布應該是可持續時裝設計時的首要關注。」

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Local influencers The Sustainable Fashion Business Consortium (SFBC) is a group of Hong Kong fashion industry companies that gathers together local companies, NGOs and influencers to push the development of a lower-impact fashion industry in the broader region. www.sfbc.org.hk 本地時裝業界 時裝企業持續發展聯盟（SFBC）集合香港 時裝業廠商，致力匯聚本地企業、非政府組 織和各活躍人仕，在廣泛地區推動時尚產業 的發展，提倡減低業界對環境的影響。

Leading the fashion pack Fashion designer Johanna Ho creates fashion-forward reconstructed designs, which have attributed to her aspirational and influential position as a local sustainable fashion pioneer. www.johannaho.com 引領本地時尚 身為可持續時裝先鋒，時裝設計 師何志恩運用她對香港時裝界影 響力和抱負，重新構造前衛的設 計。

Hong Kong’s sustainable frontline 香港 的可持續先驅

Ones to watch Exciting news! The EcoChic Design Award Alumni, Absurd Laboratory, Yuri Craft and Wan & Wong Fashion, are taking the local fashion scene by storm. We predict great things for these up-and coming sustainable designers… 後起之秀亮點 我們最近收到令人振奮的消息！「 衣酷適再生時尚設計」歷屆的參賽 者，Absurd Laboratory，Yuri Craft和 Wan & Wong Fashion，正引起城中 時裝界熱話。我們預測這幾位可持 續時裝設計師的未來發展能更上一 層樓...

PS...some local insight Redress was founded in Hong Kong in 2007 under the previous name of Green2Greener and with a previous broader mission to promote sustainable lifestyles. www.redress.com.hk PS...獨具慧眼 Redress於2007年在香港成立，前身Green2Greener，使命為 推動可持續的生活方式。

Textile waste teaser...

Locals discarded 217 tonnes of textile waste into landfill every day in 2011.

(Hong Kong Environmental Protection Department)

紡織廢料詳情... 香港人在2011年每天共丟棄217噸紡織廢料到垃圾堆填 區。 (香港環境保護署) 18

A local perspective Greenpeace’s Dirty Laundry investigative report provides eye-opening details about the global fashion industry’s impact on China’s local environment. www.greenpeace.org 本地視野 綠色和平的時尚之毒調查報告為大眾提供 有關全球時裝界對中國本土環境影響的細 節。

Textile waste teaser...

The total annual production of textile waste is estimated to be more than 20 million tonnes.

Leading the fashion pack Designers Zhang Na and Nathan Zhang get our vote with their reconstructed and up-cycled designs that are breaking hearts and barriers for a more sustainable fashion industry in China. www.natoo.org.cn www.brandnuproject.com 引領本地時尚 設計師張娜和張慧祥的重新構造 和升級再造設計深得人心，打破 隔閡，推動更加可持續的中國時 裝產業。

(China Association of Resource Comprehensive Utilization, 2013)

紡織廢料詳情... 中國每年約生產超過2000萬噸紡織廢 料。 (中國資源綜合利用協會，2013)

Mainland china’s sustainable frontline

中國內地 的可持續先驅

CREDIT: IFENG.COM 相片來源：鳳凰網

Local influencers Shanghai’s Eco Village is a unique base for sustainable lifestyle shops, cafes, wellness practitioners and non-profit organisations. 本地時裝業界 上海的Eco Village是個可持續生活方式商店、咖啡館、保健業界和非牟利組織的 基地。

PS...some local insight In 2013, Peng Liyuan, the wife of president Xi Jinping, wore a sustainable fashion outfit designed by China’s Ma Ke, propelling sustainable fashion into China’s minds and media.

PS...獨具慧眼 國家主席習近平的妻子彭麗媛在2013 年穿著由中國設計師馬可設計的一套 可持續服裝，推動可持續時裝到媒體 和人民的腦海裡。 19

Xinyan Dai mainland china finalist

戴歆彥 中國內地總決賽者 Xinyan is currently studying Fashion Design at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology in China.

For her The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Collection, Xinyan combined up-cycling and reconstruction design techniques to create new outfits using cut-and-sew waste from her own production and secondhand garments sourced from her friends.

“I believe a great designer can use any existing materials to create something new, and that natural resources should not be wasted. Textiles should not be cut or dyed solely to create something beautiful. For this reason, I find the concept of reconstructing used materials in sustainable fashion to be very appealing.” 戴歆彦目前在中國北京服裝學院就讀，學習服裝設計。 關於她「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013 的參賽系列，戴歆彦運 用她自己生產的布料碎屑和朋友的二手衣服，結合零廢棄和 重新構造的設計手法，創造嶄新的服裝。 「我認為一個好的設計師應該可以將任何東西都進行重新設 計，使之成為新的產品。大自然也絕不再允許我們鋪張浪 費，為了美而去印染、剪裁更多布料。可持續服裝設計可使 舊物循環再造成為新的時尚，,它的魅力深深吸引了我。」

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Reconstructed sculptured dress made with secondhand jeans. Designer: Xinyan Dai 利用二手牛仔褲重新構造成的雕刻洋裝。時裝設計師: 戴歆彥 Stylist 造型師: Denise Ho, Photographer 攝影師: Tim Wong, Make up artist 化妝師: Denise Toms, Session hairstylist 髮型師: Marco Chan

Reconstructed patchwork dress made with secondhand jeans and checked shirts. Designer: Tsung-Chin Chiang 二手牛仔和拼盤方格襯衫重新構造成的結合洋裝。 時裝設計師: 姜宗瑾 Stylist 造型師: Denise Ho, Photographer 攝影師: Tim Wong, Make up artist 化妝師: Denise Toms, Session hairstylist 髮型師: Marco Chan

Tsung-Chin Chiang Taiwan Finalist

姜宗瑾 台灣總決賽者 Tsung-Chin is currently studying a Masters in Fashion Design at Shih Chien University in Taipei.

For her The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Collection, TsungChin reconstructed secondhand garments sourced from her own wardrobe, as well as her friends and family.

“Fast fashion makes me re-think our need for clothes. The emphasis should not be about ‘having’ but about ‘using’. To redesign and re-use clothes from past seasons is a way to extend a ‘bond’ between people and clothes. For me it is important to keep the original features of the old clothes and I don’t try to completely transform them. Instead, I try to reconstruct used clothes by fitting them to the different parts of the body to create uniqueness. When an old garment gets given a new life, it is even more unique.” 姜宗瑾目前在台北實踐大學服裝設計的碩士課程就讀。 關於她「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013 的參賽系列，姜宗瑾利用 自己的衣櫃裡，以及她朋友和家人的二手衣物，重新構造成服 裝。 「快速時尚讓我反思對於衣物的滿足，重點不在於『擁有』，而 是『使用』，將過季無用的衣物轉化為可用。藉由『再設計』而 能夠『再使用』。我延續的是情感，每一件都是唯一，而被賦予 了新生命後也同樣是唯一。」

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Local landscape Taipei’s EcoARK Pavilion was made from 1.5 million recycled plastic bottles. This impressive nine-story-tall structure covers an area equivalent to six basketball courts and weighs 50 percent less than a conventional building. 本地風景 台北環生方舟由150萬回收塑料瓶製成。這令人印象深刻的九層高的結 構，佔地面積相當於6個籃球場，重量比傳統建築減少50%。

Leading the fashion pack Mei Hui Liu and Sophie Hong have pushed their sustainable fashion products beyond Taiwan’s shores and into the global market. www.victimfashionst.com www.sophie-hong.com 引領本地時尚 劉美惠和洪麗芬推的可持續時裝產品超出了 台灣的海岸，進入全球市場。

FLICKR - NED RICHARDS

Taiwan’s sustainable frontline 台灣 的可持續先驅 PS...some local insight Taiwan is the sixth largest exporter of textiles in the world.

(Dept. of Statistics, MOFA, 2012)

PS...獨具慧眼 台灣是世界第六大紡織品出口國。 (中華民國外交部統計處， 2012年)

Textile waste teaser...

In 2012, 35,621 tonnes of textile products were recycled by local Government Agencies.

(Environmental Protection Administration, Taiwan)

紡織廢料詳情...

2012年台灣當地政府機構回收共35,621噸的紡織品 (台灣環保總局) 24

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Inspiring change Green Drinks Singapore is a monthly gathering for those with a passion to embrace sustainability in a variety of areas, from fashion to food to fuel, which has been featuring in locals’ monthly diaries since 2007. www.sggreendrinks.wordpress.com 鼓舞人心的變化 Green Drinks Singapore是一個每月聚會，從時裝到食物到 燃料，為在各領域中熱情擁抱可持續發展的同好而設。組織 自2007年以來已在當地人每月日誌中留下印記。

Leading the fashion pack Sustainable brands, Etrican and Heads of State Millinery, are adding to the growing number of sustainable fashion products available in Singapore. www.etrican.com www.headsofstatemillinery.com 引領本地時尚 可持續品牌Etrican和Heads of State Millinery，是新加坡都越 見普及的可持續時裝產品一員。 Textile waste teaser...

Singaporeans disposed of 141,000 tonnes of textile and leather waste in 2012.

(Singapore National Environment Agency 2012)

singapore’s sustainable frontline

紡織廢料詳情... 新加坡2012年丟棄141,000噸紡 織和皮革廢料。

的可持續先驅

新加坡

(新加坡國家環境局2012)

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Local icon Nadya Hutagalung has a pedigree in sustainability to match her style. She is the co-founder of Green Kampong, an educational platform focusing on environmental conservation, an ecoactivist and an eco-centric jewelry designer. Plus, she is a former model and now hosts Asia’s Next Top Model. www.greenkampong.com 本地標誌 Nadya Hutagalung一如既往符合她可 持續的風格。她是Green Kampong， 一個專注於環境保護教育平台的聯合創 辦人，並是個保育生態倡導者和以生態 為中心的珠寶設計師。另外，她曾是個 模特兒，現在為《亞洲超級名模生死 鬥》主持。

Local landscape The Park Royal on Pickering property boasts such stylish integration of nature throughout the property that it looks part-fortress and part-forest. Plus, they are heavily committed to reducing the hotel’s water and energy consumption. www.parkroyalhotels.com 本地風景 新加坡皮克林賓樂雅酒店融合時尚和大自 然，看起來既像堡壘又像森林。此外，酒店 致力減少水和能源的消耗。 27

Phee Ng, Swee Yee

Singapore finalist

吳瑞億

新加坡總決賽者 Phee is currently working as a graphic designer in Singapore.

She has Diploma in Apparel Design and Merchandising from Temasek Polytechnic in Singapore.

For her The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Collection, Phee combined up-cycling and reconstruction design techniques to create new outfits using cut-and-sew waste from her own production and secondhand garments sourced from her friends and family.

“Sustainable fashion is mentally challenging, but is also interesting and fulfilling to create designs that make people look good – without compromising our already scarce natural resources. For me, it is important that my collection demonstrates that sustainable fashion can be incorporated into our life easily, while not compromising style or design.”

吳瑞億目前在新加坡從事平面設計師工作。她擁有新加坡淡馬錫 理工學院頒發的服裝設計及營銷文憑。 關於她「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013 的參賽系列，吳瑞億運用 她自己生產的布料碎屑和家人朋友的二手衣服，結合零廢棄和重 新構造的設計技術，創造嶄新的服裝。 「設計可持續時裝非常費神，但能不損害我們已經稀缺的天然資 源，創造出好看的服裝，過程十分有趣亦令我感到滿足。對於我 來說，最重要的是，我的系列證明可持續發展的方式可以輕鬆地 納入到我們的生活，同時保持獨有風格或設計。」

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Reconstructed structured dress made with secondhand garments. Designer: Phee Ng, Swee Yee 二手紡織品重新構造成的結合洋裝。 時裝設計師: 吳瑞億 Stylist 造型師: Denise Ho, Photographer 攝影師: Tim Wong, Make up artist 化妝師: Denise Toms, Session hairstylist 髮型師: Marco Chan

Zero-waste geometric dress and trousers. Designer: Catherine Hudson 零廢棄造成的幾何學拼形洋裝和長褲。時裝設計師: Catherine Hudson Stylist 造型師: Denise Ho, Photographer 攝影師: Tim Wong, Make up artist 化妝師: Denise Toms, Session hairstylist 髮型師: Marco Chan

Catherine Hudson uk Finalist

英國總決賽者 Catherine is currently working as an apprentice tailor in London. In 2013 she graduated with a Fashion Design degree from the Manchester School of Art in the UK and she previously interned with renowned designers, Peter Pilotto and Aitor Throup.

For her The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Collection, Catherine constructed geometric zero-waste patterns to fully utilise new textiles.

“To me sustainable fashion is a means of investigation and experimentation. It means aspiring creatively to influence a consumer base, so as to change the pre-conceptions of the fashion market, which is very set in its ways. I want to incorporate this in my work because we are at a point where sustainable fashion can be exciting and embrace both the future and science. I want to use the idea of sustainability to focus on new developments in a contemporary and aesthetically pleasing way.”

Catherine目前正在倫敦當裁縫學徒。她在英國曼徹斯特藝術學院 畢業，擁有時裝設計學位，並曾在知名設計師 Peter Pilotto 和 Aitor Throup 旗下實習。 關於她「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013 的參賽系列，Catherine 構造零 廢棄的幾何圖型，充分利用新的紡織品。 「對我來說，可持續時裝是研究和實驗的一種手法。這表示我們要運 用創意去影響消費者，從而改變對時裝市場的固有概念。我想把這些 概念融入到我的作品中，因為可持續時裝正身處在擁抱未來和科學的 時期，現時進行令人十分興奮的發展。我想用可持續發展的理念，專 注於當代和美學的方式，作出新的發展。」

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Local icon Lily Cole is not just a supermodel and actress. She is also a humanitarian and environmental advocate and ambassador for the Environmental Justice Foundation and she has her own sustainable fashion label, The North Circular. Now, that’s impressive. 本地標誌 Lily Cole不僅是一個超級名模和演員。她也是一個人道主義 和環保倡導者，更和環境正義基金會（Environmental Justice Foundation）的大使。，她亦擁有自己的可持續時裝品牌The North Circular，實在令人印象深刻。 Textile waste teaser...

UK landfills receive approximately dumped garments every five minutes.

9,513

(Marks & Spencer, 2012)

紡織廢料詳情... 英國的垃圾填堆區每五分鐘接收約9,513件廢棄 服裝。 (馬莎百貨， 2012 )

uk’s

sustainable frontline

英國 Leading the fashion pack Pioneering sustainable fashion brands, From Somewhere, Goodone and Junky Styling, are positioned within the inner fashion circles having presented collections at London Fashion Week’s sustainable fashion trade fair, Estethica. 引領本地時尚 開拓可持續時裝的品牌，From Somewhere, Goodone 和 Junky Styling，在倫敦時裝週的可持 續時裝貿易博覽會Estethica中 呈現令人印象深刻的作品，備 受注視。

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的可持續先驅

Local influencers There is a long line-up of influential sustainable experts, who are more global than local influencers. Take your pick from authors Kate Fletcher, Sass Brown and Alison Gwilt. 本地時裝業界 可持續發展的專家陣容鼎盛，更具全球 性的影響，例如作家Kate Fletcher，Sass Brown 和 Alison Gwilt。 PS... some local insight Textiles Environment Design (TED) developed a set of practice-based sustainable design strategies, called TED’s TEN, which help designers to create textiles with reduced environmental impacts. www.tedresearch.net PS... 獨具慧眼 紡織環境設計研究小組（ TED ）開發了一 套關於實踐的可持續設計策略，稱為TED的 十大策略，這有助於設計人員有效運用紡織 品減少對環境的影響。

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Clémentine Sandner uk Finalist* 英國總決賽者

Clémentine is currently working as an independent designer. In 2013 she graduated with a Fashion Design and Creation degree from ESMOD Lyon.

For her The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Collection, Clémentine is combining zero-waste, up-cycling and reconstruction design techniques to create new outfits using leftover textiles from her own production and secondhand clothes sourced from charity shops in France.

“To me sustainable fashion is self-evident. As the future availability of natural resources is more and more debated, it is important to think about new ways of producing. Today, I cannot imagine being a fashion designer without thinking about fashion’s future.”

Clémentine 目前為獨立設計師。她畢業於 ESMOD 法國里昂，擁有時裝設計及 創作學位。 關於她「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013 的參賽系列，Clémentine 結合零廢棄、升 級再造和重新構造的設計技術，利用她自己用剩的紡織品和購自法國慈善商店 的二手衣服，創造新的服裝。 「對我來說，可持續時裝是不言自明的。對於未來可用的天然資源，社會有著 越來越多的爭論，我認為最重要的是去思考新的生產方式。今天，我不能想像 身為一個時裝設計師，而不考慮時尚的未來。」

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*Clémentine was the international judges’ wildcard finalist choice. *Clementine是由國際評審團所選出來的第八位總決賽者。

Reconstructed textured dress made with secondhand garments. Designer: Clémentine Sandner 重新構造二手紡織品的結合洋裝。時裝設計師: Clémentine Sandner Stylist 造型師: Denise Ho, Photographer 攝影師: Tim Wong, Make up artist 化妝師: Denise Toms, Session hairstylist 髮型師: Marco Chan

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HARBOUR CITY

TIMES SQUARE

NEW TOWN PLAZA

PACIFIC PLACE

HARVEY NICHOLS

Waste teaser...

France is the second largest producer of waste in the EU with 355 million tonnes produced in 2010.

(Eurostat, 2010)

紡織廢料詳情... 法國是歐盟各國中生產廢料第二大的國家，2010年共生產355億公噸的廢物。 (歐盟統計局，2010)

France’s sustainable frontline 法國 的可持續先驅 Best in Town You can consume with a conscience at Merci in Paris. Fresh delicious produce, used books and emerging designers’ collections are on offer and you can eat, read and buy knowing that all the organisation’s profits go to the store’s endowment fund to support human development. www.merci-merci.com

FLICKR - BILL MCCHESNEY

Leading the fashion pack Local designer, Sakina M’Sa, has injected France’s historically renowned fashion scene with a sustainable twist by up-cycling street workers’ old blue uniforms into her well-loved ‘new’ collections. www.sakinamsa.com

城中佳餚美饌 您可以在位於巴黎的Merci店內作良 心消費，享受新鮮美味的農產品的同 時，翻看二手書和欣賞新晉設計師服 裝系列。在該組織吃喝，閱讀和購買 衣飾的所有利潤均會捐贈到支持人類 發展基金中。

PS... some local insight French companies that introduce clothing, household linen and footwear items on the French market under their own brands are legally responsible for managing the recycling of their products at the end of the product’s usage.

Companies can organise their own recycling program or contribute to an external recycling organisation, both of which must be approved by the French authorities. Progressive stuff! www.ecotlc.fr PS...獨具慧眼 法國公司轄下的自家品牌在法國市場中引進服裝、家居用品、鞋類等製品，按法 律規定，需負責管理產品使用後的回收利用。企業可以組織自己的回收計劃，或 借外部回收機構，兩者都必須得到法國當局批准。

FLICKR - FABCOM

引領本地時尚 本土設計師Sakina M’Sa 為法國歷 史上著名的時裝舞台注入可持續 原素。她運用鐵路工人的舊藍色 制服升級再造，設計深受大眾喜 愛的「新」系列。

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Louise de Testa France Finalist 法國總決賽者

Louise is currently working on her own label, Louise de Testa, established in Paris in 2011. She has a Fashion Design degree from Atelier Chardon Savard in France and she has interned for famous designers, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander Wang and for US Vogue.

For her The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Collection, Louise combinined zero-waste and up-cycling design techniques to create new outfits using leftover textiles from her own production and secondhand textiles sourced from flea markets in France.

“It is very important for me to create quality designs that will last in time with excellent finishing, which is the opposite of fast fashion consuming. As a young designer, I have a lot of ideas but limited resources, so I make the most out of resources available to me.

That’s why I think that for our generation, sustainability has to be naturally anchored in our creative process.”

Louise 目前正在發展她自己 2011 年在巴黎成立的 Louise de Testa 品牌。她獲法國 Atelier Chardon Savard 頒發時裝設計學位，並曾 在注名設計師 Vivienne Westwood、Alexander Wang 和 Vogue 美 國工作室實習。 關於她「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013 的參賽系列，Louise 結合零廢 棄和升級再造的設計技術，利用她自己用剩的紡織品和購自法國跳 蚤市場的二手布料，創造新的服裝。 「對於我來說，創造具有優良整理，高質量的設計是非常重要的， 這與快速時尚消費恰好相反。身為一個年輕設計師，我有很多的想 法，但資源有限，所以我盡量利用已有資源，物盡其用。這就是為 什麼我認為我們這一代人應用可持續發展理念，應當發自內心，自 然流露於我們的創作過程中。」

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Up-cycled bomber jacket and trousers made with jersey production leftovers. Designer: Louise de Testa 利用平紋布升級再造的短身外套和以長褲。時裝設計師: Louise de Testa Stylist 造型師: Denise Ho, Photographer 攝影師: Tim Wong, Make up artist 化妝師: Denise Toms, Session hairstylist 髮型師: Marco Chan

Reconstructed interlaced dress made with secondhand jeans and excess factory T-shirt production surplus. Designer: Karen Jessen 結合二手牛仔褲和工廠採集剩餘的襯衫重新構造成的洋裝。 時裝設計師: Karen Jessen Stylist 造型師: Denise Ho, Photographer 攝影師: Tim Wong, Make up artist 化妝師: Denise Toms, Session hairstylist 髮型師: Marco Chan

Karen Jessen Germany Finalist 德國總決賽者

Karen is currently working on her own label, Benu Berlin, established in Berlin in 2012. She has a Fashion Design and Pattern Drafting degree from the ESMOD Berlin.

For her The EcoChic Design Award 2013 Collection, Karen reconstructed jeans and T-shirts sourced from secondhand stores in Germany.

“Jeans and T-shirts are some of the most mass produced garments in the world and also the most thrown away. Transforming old clothes is an effective approach to turn this cycle around.”

Karen 目前正在發展她自己 2012 年在柏林成立的 Benu Berlin 品牌。她擁有 ESMOD 柏林頒發的時裝設計及紙樣 起草學位。 關於她「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013的參賽系列，Karen 結合重新構造來自德國二手商店的牛仔褲和 T 恤。 「牛仔褲和 T 恤衫是全球最大量生產的服裝，也是最大量 扔掉的衣物。改造舊衣服是延長衣服生命週期的有效方 法。」

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Local style statement Berlin’s Upcycling Fashion Store is a haven for masterfully up-cycled textile waste garments. This inspiring shop stocks upcycling designers and brands, including Milch and Daniel Kroh. www.upcycling-fashion.de 本地風格 柏林的回收時裝店Upcycling Fashion Store是 個專賣升級再造的紡織廢料服裝的商店。這家 店引入升級再造的設計師和品牌，包括Milch和 Daniel Kroh 。

MASTERS ALUMNI 2012 STEFANIE STOLITZKA. PHOTOGRAPHER: ANITA SCHMID

Leading the fashion pack The Green Showroom has brilliantly put sustainability on Germany’s fashion map since 2009 by showcasing pioneering sustainable brands alongside Berlin Fashion Week. www.green-showroom.net 引領本地時尚 The Green Showroom自2009年以 來與柏林時裝週並肩，通過展示 開創先河的可持續品牌，令可持 續時裝在德國的時尚版圖有立足 之地。

Germany’s sustainable frontline 德國 的可持續先驅

Graduates to watch ESMOD Berlin offers the International Masters Programme, Sustainability in Fashion, providing an interdisciplinary educational approach so that fashion design is ecologically, ethically, socially and economically sustainable. Music to our ears. www.esmod.de 後起之秀亮點 ESMOD柏林高級時裝藝術學院（ESMOD Berlin）開設可持續時裝（Sustainability in Fashion）國際碩士課程，提供跨 學科的教育方法，讓時裝設計於生態、倫 理、社會和經濟多方可持續發展。

FLICKR - MATTIAS OLSSON

Waste teaser...

Germany is the largest producer of waste in the European Union, with 363 million tonnes of waste produced in 2010.

(Eurostat 2010)

紡織廢料詳情... 德國是歐盟各國中生產最大廢料的國家，2010年共生產363億 公噸的廢物。 (歐盟統計局2010) 42

Local initiatives The Get Changed network makes it easier for locals to select the best sustainable fashion products in today’s busy marketplace. www.getchanged.net 本地行動 Get Changed網絡讓當地人更容易在當今繁忙的市場選擇最佳 的可持續時裝產品。

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International Judges

The EcoChic Design Award 2013 國際評審 衣酷適 再生時尚設計 2013

Our judges, holding between them a wealth of experience across the fashion industry, come together to select sustainable fashion designers who are ready to change the pattern of fashion. 我們集合各位評審在時裝業的豐富經驗之大成，選 出有能耐改變時尚模式的可持續設計師。

Orsola de Castro is a renowned sustainable fashion designer from the UK. She co-founded From Somewhere, the revolutionary sustainable fashion label that ulilises pre-consumer textile waste, in 1997. She has since created up-cycled collections for both the niche and mass markets, including Tesco and Topshop. In 2006, she cofounded Estethica, the sustainable fashion trade fair at London Fashion Week, which she continues to curate today.

Orsola de Castro Co-founder, From Somewhere Co-founder and Curator, Estethica 品牌 From Somewhere 聯合創辦人, Estethica 聯合創辦人兼總監

Orsola是一位國際知名的英國可持續時裝設計師。她於 1997年聯合創辦了品牌From Somewhere，一個運用 市場所製的消費前紡織廢料創造服飾，革新的可持續時 裝品牌。這位設計師亦為大眾市場和知名品牌，包括 Tesco和Topshop等，設計升级再造系列。她於2006年 與英國時裝協會合作，在倫敦時裝週成立可持續時裝展 銷會 - Estethica 。Orsola現時為Estethica總監。

Johanna Ho studied fashion design at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design in London. Johanna showcased her first collection at London Fashion Week, which was subsequently purchased by Barneys New York, making her one of Hong Kong’s most illustrious designers to create impact overseas.

Johanna has a strong sustainable fashion philosophy and design that runs through much of her brand.

Johanna Ho Fashion Designer

何志恩 時裝設計師

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Johanna於倫敦的著名聖馬丁設計學院畢業。她的首個 系列已獲邀在倫敦時裝週亮相, 其後更得到美國高檔百貨 公司 Barneys New York 賞識, 購入其設計系列,成為少數 能獲得世界肯定的香港設計師。Johanna 的個人品牌圍 繞著可持續的時尚理念和設計 。

Margaret Kutt has expertise in sustainable fashion research, development and manufacturing. Margaret spearheads the development, execution and future growth strategies of the ‘Recycled Collection by Esprit’, which the main competition winner will design for.

Margaret will work closely with the winner on their final designs for Esprit to ensure their subsequent collection is highly marketable with a strong sustainable message for consumers.

Margaret Kutt Project Manager Sustainability, Esprit Esprit可持續時裝項目經理

Margaret專長於可持續時裝的研發、生產和零售。身為 Esprit可持續時裝的項目經理，她負責Esprit可持續時裝 系列的發展、執行和未來增長策略。 比賽得獎者會為 Esprit設計可持續時裝系列， 並與Margaret緊密合作， 以確保時裝系列高度市場化，同時對消費者具有較強的 可持續發展信息。

Gloria Lam is an accomplished editorial executive with widespread experience in the media industry across Greater China. Before joining the ELLE family and taking her current role as Editor-in-Chief of ELLE Hong Kong, Gloria was the Editorial Director of Modern Media Group’s U+ Weekly (優家畫報), the Deputy Editorial Director of Modern Weekly (Lifestyle section) and Chief Editor of Jessica Code. In addition, Gloria has written and published two Chinese fictions, entitled《天使的哀 愁》and《愛．燒．慾》.

Gloria Lam Editor-in-Chief, ELLE Hong Kong

林雯茵 ELLE 香港版總編輯

林雯茵於大中華地區擁有豐富傳媒經驗，在出任 ELLE 香港版總編輯前，先後擔任現代傳播集團旗下 《優家畫報》的編輯總監，《周末畫報》生活版的副 編輯總監，以及《Jessica Code》的總編輯。另外， 林雯茵更曾出版兩部中文小說著作《天使的哀愁》及 《愛．燒．慾》。

Anderson Lee is a respected apparel technical expert and a leader in promoting sustainable business practices.

Amongst other accolades, he is a Convenor in the Fashion Industry Development Committee of the HKSAR; a board member of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition; a steering member of the Global Recycle Standard; and a speaker at CCBF’s and China Water Risk’s 2°C+ Water and Prime Source Forum. He is the Business Director of the Hong Kong Non-Woven Group, which is renowned for innovation and sustainable production.

Anderson Lee Vice Chairman, Sustainable Fashion Business Consortium (SFBC)

李明威 時裝企業持續發展聯盟(SFBC)副主席

李 明威是製造業和時裝業界備受尊重的專家及領袖， 頭銜眾多。他既是香港特別行政區服裝發展委員會召集 人、可持續服裝聯盟 ( Sustainable Apparel Coalition) 的 董事局成員 , 亦是全球回收標準的主要成員。他曾在氣 候變化商界論壇、中國水務危機 2°C + Water、國際時 尚服裝業高峰論壇中擔任講者 。 現 出任以 創新 著名的 香島纖維工業有限公司擔任業務總監

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Advertorial/廣告

The EcoChic Design Award 2013 衣酷適再生時尚設計2013

Prizes

fostering careers in sustainable fashion

獎項 培育新一代可持續 時裝設計師 The first prize winner will design a sustainable collection for Esprit for their global retail. The winner’s ‘Recycled Collection by Esprit’ will be made using recycled textiles, created by recycling Esprit’s own pre-consumer textile waste, and will be in-stores in mid 2014. This prize further demonstrates the competition’s substantial influence on the broader fashion industry and retail sector. 「衣酷適再生時尚設計」2013 第一名得主會與Esprit合作設 計一個於全球零售的再生時尚系列。獲獎者的「Esprit再生 時裝系列」 設計，會用經由Esprit收集的自身生產過程中的 消費前廢料來生產，並且將在2014年中旬上架。這個獎項 進一步展現了這個比賽對於廣泛的時尚領域以及零售行業的 實質性影響。

The second prize winner will go on an educational trip to globally-leading sustainable jewelry brand John Hardy’s design and production facilities in Bali to experience firsthand their sustainable design, production and business philosophies. This prize will explore the wider sustainabilityrelated business considerations. 第二名得主會參觀全球知名的可持續珠寶品牌John Hardy 位於印尼巴里島的設計和生產設施，體驗品牌如何把環境和 社會可持續發展的抱負集成到他們的設計、生產和經營理念 中。這個獎項設置將會探索可持續發展相關企業更廣泛的想 法和考慮。

The special prize winner, selected by artist Sandy Lam, will create a unique sustainable outfit which Sandy will wear in a fashion shoot for ELLE Hong Kong’s 2014 green edition. This prize will help to ‘redress’ consumers’ attitudes towards sustainable fashion. 特別獎項得主可為歌手林憶蓮設計耳目一新的再生時尚服 裝，並刊登於2014年ELLE 香港的綠色版專題故事，改變消 費者對可持續時裝的態度。

All of the finalists and semi-finalists will receive various informative resources to inspire their ongoing sustainable fashion journeys. These include a selection of sustainable fashion books, provided by publishers Thames & Hudson, Bloomsbury and Laurence King, and online resource subscriptions, provided by Berg Fashion Library and Source4Style. In addition, all finalists will receive a mini-mentorship with a local sustainable fashion expert from their region and a stunning recycled silver John Hardy gift. 所有進入半決賽以及決賽的選手將會得到各種資訊和資源，啟發他們在可持續 時尚道路上的繼續邁步，包括了一系列的由Thames & Hudson, Bloomsbury 和 Laurence King等出版社提供的可持續時尚書籍，以及由Berg Fashion Library 和 Source4Style 提供的在線閱讀訂閱。除此以外，所有晉身決賽的選手將會接受由 他們當地的可持續時尚專家教授的小型輔導課，更會得到絕妙的John Hardy再生 銀質禮物。

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Refueling I

t is clear that education is the fuel needed to drive the fashion industry towards greater sustainability, even if the terrain is tough and the course not always clear. This educational fuel needs to reach classrooms, factory floors and executive boardrooms along the fashion supply chain.

What is less clear is whether the road towards sustainability has enough universities, academic institutions and trainers poised to refuel an industry in need so that designers and industry professionals possess the information to power the long distance ahead.

There is currently an uneven balance between educational supply and demand. This needs to be comprehensively addressed.

We revealed a high demand for sustainable fashion education from fashion designers when we surveyed 798 emerging designers from Hong Kong, Mainland China, Taiwan and Singapore. Ninety five percent said they think it is important for designers to be educated about sustainable fashion and that sustainable fashion should be integrated into universities’ fashion design curriculums. We personally witnessed their thirst for knowledge when we delivered 22 lectures to over 1075 fashion design students in Hong Kong, Mainland China, Taiwan, Singapore, UK, France and Germany last year.

But even if the demand is there, the supply appears sporadic. Leading the way is the Centre for Sustain-

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able Fashion at London College of Fashion with their MA Fashion Futures and ESMOD Berlin’s MA Sustainability in Fashion. These centres have put sustainable fashion where it should be – fully recognised as comprehensive courses that are not tucked away into smaller modules, if at all included.

In Asia, we are seeing preliminary but positive steps to introduce sustainable fashion modules within various fashion degrees’ broader curriculums. Our own The EcoChic Design Award has been integrated into various curriculums in Hong Kong and Mainland China to provide a sustainable fashion educational energy boost for Asia’s emerging fashion designers. We also created our online Learn platform so that more designers can get free online access to information on their respective roads to sustainability.

Excitingly, the traffic on the roads towards sustainability is getting busier. Alongside emerging fashion designers’ mopeds and small engines, we are also seeing powerful players take to the road who drive the fashion industry’s fastest turbo engines.

We are seeing the provision of sustainable fashion education within the established industry community grow as companies take their leaders back to the blackboard to revise and reinvent sustainability initiatives from within. Hong Kong’s Sustainable Fashion Business Consortium

(SFBC) is a positive example of a sustainability-driven business platform that fosters sharing about sustainable fashion initiatives and collaborations amongst multi-stakeholders along the supply chain. Sweden’s Sustainable Fashion Academy equips leaders and entrepreneurs working at different levels within the industry with the knowledge and tools they need to develop and drive sustainable apparel innovations.

So too are collaborations between academia and business increasing as the world’s thinkers unite with the world’s producers. As part of MISTRA Future Fashion Program, Textiles Environmental Design researchers developed a bespoke training program for H&M’s design staff to explore design thinking for sustainability. Elsewhere, The Fashion Futures report, produced by Forum for the Future, collaborated with Levi Strauss & Co. to provide guidance on how the entire fashion supply chain can safeguard its future and protect our environment.

It is clear from the growing environmental problems that the industry cannot keep making clothes the way it is. But to change our clothes, we need to go to the source to educate the entire fashion supply chain, from designers with their fresh perspectives and hunger for information, to industry professionals with their master keys to the market.

Afterall, it is education that will fuel this long journey ahead.

the industry 為行業加油 教

育是推動時尚產業走向更可 持續發展的燃料。即使過程 艱巨，前路未茫，這種教育燃料需 要達到時裝供應鏈中的教室、工廠 車間和行政會議室。 前路未茫的原因，是因為不 知現在可持續道路是否有足夠的 大學、學術機構和培訓人員，為 行業加油，提供資訊，讓設計師 和業內專業人士來提前供電，準 備長征。 目前需要全面解決是教育供 給和需求之間的不平衡。 我們發現業內時裝設計師對可 持續時裝教育有著很大的需求。我 們調查來自香港、中國內地、台灣 及新加坡798位新晉設計師，其中 95%認為可持續時裝教育對設計師 非常重要，而關於可持續時裝的設 計方式亦應納入大學的時裝設計課 程。我們去年在香港、中國內地、 台灣、新加坡、英國、法國和德國 合共舉辦22個講座，與超過1075 位就讀時裝設計專業的學生對話， 親眼目睹他們對時裝設計的求知 欲。 但是，即使市場有需求，供給 卻零零星星。 領先一步的是倫敦時裝學 院可持續時裝中心（London College of Fashion Centre for Sustainable Fashion）的時裝

未來（Fashion Futures）碩士 課程，及ESMOD柏林高級時裝 藝術學院（ESMOD Berlin）的 可持續時裝（Sustainability in Fa s h i o n ） 碩 士 課 程 。 這 些 學 術 中 心把可持續時裝定為全面、獨立成 科的課程，而非個別課堂中小小的 一環，有些課程甚至不把可持續時 裝放在眼內。 在亞洲，我們看到初步但積極 的改變，循序漸進在各類時裝學位 課程中介紹可持續時裝設計。我們 的「衣酷適再生設計」已經融入香 港及中國內地的各種課程，為亞洲 新晉時裝設計師提供可持續時裝教 育。我們還創立了網上學習平台， 讓更多設計師可以免費得到信息， 在各自的設計道路上作可持續發 展。 令人興奮的是，可持續發展的 道路交通越見頻繁。除了新晉時裝 設計師的輕便摩托車和小型引擎， 我們也看到厲害的時尚玩家駕駛時 裝業最快、最時尚的列車，踏上可 持續之旅。 我們看到業內可持續時裝教育 發展迅速，公司帶領員工重回教 室，從內部修改和重塑可持續發展 的方案。香港的時裝企業持續發展 聯盟（SFBC）便是個好例子，它 是一個以可持續發展為導向的業務 平台，致力促進有關可持續時裝

措施的交流，以及供應鏈中多方 利益相關者和合作。瑞典的可持續 時裝學院（Sustainable Fashion Academy）則裝備業內不同層次 的領袖和企業家，增進其知識，並 提供創新工具，以助發展和推動可 持續服裝。 同樣地，學術界和商界之間 的合作隨著全球思想家團結世界 生產商而增加。作為MISTRA未 來時尚計劃（Future Fashion Program）研究項目的一部分， 紡 織 環 境 設 計 研 究 小 組 （ Te x t i l e Environmental Design）為H&M 的設計團隊開發了一個定制的培訓 計劃，探討可持續的設計思維。 非牟利組織未來論壇（Forum for the Future）則與利维-斯特劳斯 公司（Levi Strauss & Co）合 作 ， 編 著 「 時 裝 未 來 報 告 Fa s h i o n Futures report」，提供如何在整 個時裝供應鏈中能夠保障未來，保 護環境的指導。 環境問題日益嚴重，正正明確 表明時尚行業不能以現有方法繼 續生產服裝。但要改變，我們需要 由根源著手，從充滿新觀點和渴望 知識的設計師，到明瞭市場需求的 行業專業人士，教育整個時裝供應 鏈。 畢竟，教育是這個漫長旅程的 主要燃料。

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www.admcf.org

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Alumni News 歷屆參賽者訊息 Our alumni have much to be proud about.

Having only recently crusaded on The EcoChic Design Award’s competition catwalks in 2011 and 2012, our alumni have continued to demonstrate vigorous passion to change the pattern of fashion… 我們為2011年和2012年「衣酷適再生時 尚設計」的歷屆參賽者感到驕傲，他們 繼續表現出對時尚的熱情，為改變時裝 格局而努力...

Angus Tsui

徐逸昇

Hong Kong 2012 People´s Award Winner 香港 2012 年人氣大獎得主

Angus further developed his zero-waste skills, first introduced to him in our Hong Kong 2012 competition, and went on to win the Overall Winner prize at the Hong Kong Design Institute’s Graduation Show 2013 for his zero-waste graduation collection. 在香港2012年的比賽中初次接觸零廢棄技術，徐逸昇 其後進一步發展他的設計技能，其零廢棄畢業系列更在 香港知專設計學院2013畢業展中脫泳而出，贏得全場 總冠軍。

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Wister Tsang

曾浩賢

Hong Kong 2012 Winner 香港 2012 年得主

Wister designed the 2013 ‘Recycled Collection for Esprit’, a recycled textile collection for Esprit as part of his winning prize. His collection hit stores in Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan, Malaysia, Australia and New Zealand in 2013. 曾浩賢得到為2013年「Esprit循環再生系列」設計的機 會。他的再生紡織系列已於2013年在香港、新加坡、台 灣、馬來西亞、澳洲和新西蘭有售。

Kelvin Wan

溫嘉恆

Hong Kong 2012 Most Promising Student Award Winner 香港 2012 年學生大獎得主

Kelvin has recently launched his own sustainable brand with his partner, called Wan & Wong Fashion. With the support of Redress, they are exhibiting their up-cycled and zero-waste collection at HKTDC Hong Kong Fashion Week A/W 2014 to showcase their now ready-forretail sustainable brand to buyers from around the world. 溫嘉恆最近與合作夥伴推出了個人可持續品牌Wan & Wong。在Redress的支持下，他們將於香港貿易發展 局舉辦的香港時裝週A/W 2014中展出其升級製造及零 廢棄系列，向來自世界各地的買家展示他們準備作零售 的可持續品牌。

Janko Lam

林春菊

Hong Kong 2011 Winner

香港 2011 年總決賽參賽者

Janko designed the inaugural 2012 ‘Recycled Collection for Esprit’ that retailed in Hong Kong in May 2012 as part of her winning prize. She has since been working on up-cycling end-of-roll textile waste for her own brand, called Mutt Museum. 林春菊得到為首屆「Esprit循環再生系列」設計的機 會，並於2012年5月在香港零售。她現在正努力發展自 家品牌Mutt Museum，運用卷軸尾端紡織廢料作升級再 造。

文玉儀

Hong Kong 2011 Finalist and Hong Kong 2012 Alumni Mentorship with Orsola de Castro Winner

香港 2011 年總決賽參賽者及 Orsola de Castro 啟導計劃 2012 年得主

Yuri has continued to develop her sustainable fashion brand, called Yuri Craft. The mentorship that we organised for her has assisted her creative quest to reconstruct wasted textile materials, including underwear, into ‘new’. 文玉儀繼續發展她的可持續時裝品牌Yuri Craft。我們為 她設計啟導計劃，重新構造內衣等的廢棄紡織材料，協 助她對創作的追求。

王偉俊

hong kong 2011 finalist

香港 2011 年得主

yuri man

Eric wong

Eric has further developed his brand with his partner, called Absurd Laboratory. With the support of Redress, they are exhibiting their up-cycled collection at HKTDC Hong Kong Fashion Week A/W 2014 to showcase their now ready-for-retail sustainable brand to buyers from around the world. 王偉俊與他的夥伴進一步發展自家品牌Absurd Laboratory。在Redress的支持下，他們將於香港貿易 發展局舉辦的香港時裝週A/W 2014中展出其升級再造系 列，向來自世界各地的買家展示他們準備作零售的可持 續品牌。

Gong Jia Qi

龔佳器

Mainland China 2012 Winner 中國內地 2012 年得主

Gong designed the Mainland China edition of the 2013 ‘Recycled Collection by Esprit’, as part of her winning prize. Breaking history by being the first Mainland Chinese sustainable designer to design a recycled collection for her homeland. 作為獲獎一部分，林春菊得到為中國內地版2013年 「Esprit循環再生系列」設計的機會，成為首位為中國內 地循環再生系列設計的可持續設計師。

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what’s next 2014

新動向

Debra Tan director, china water risk 中國水危機網站總監 “A business-as-usual approach will see fashion blindsided by water risks in China & India. With around 50% of cotton grown in India and China (the number one and two most water stressed countries globally), brands may have no choice but to look for new materials that require less energy & water to make, recycling of textile waste and clothes. And it’s not just cotton but leather as well.

Across the apparel and footwear industries, we expect to see more focus on the selection of materials at the design stage that use and pollute less water and tools developed like the MSI (Materials Sustainability Index) should help.

“按照慣常方式辦事，將會因中國以及印 度的水危機而變成死胡同。全球有近50% 的棉花種植在印度和中國（全球水資源最 緊缺國家第一和第二位），品牌公司將失 去選擇的餘地，轉向尋找需要較少水和能 源來生產的新材料，或是以回收的紡織廢 料以及衣物作材料。不僅是棉花，還有皮 革。服裝和鞋類行業將更著重在設計時選 用使用較少水源以及造成較少水源污染的 原材料，而MSI（材料可持續性指數）等 工具將十分有用。

With increasing NGO pressure on pollute on in the supply chain, we should also see more focus on the selection of water-friendly chemicals for dying & finishing, a bias towards ‘green’ manufacturers and commitment to zeroliquid discharge.

隨著非政府組織在生產鏈上施加越多壓 力，鼓勵減少污染，我們將看到更多的關 注投放在染色和最終生產階段中，選擇不 會污染水源的化合物，傾向綠色生產，以 及為零流質排放作出貢獻。

Limited water resources will no doubt shape fashion’s choice of raw materials. Brands should do well to mitigate water risks with a corporate water strategy.”

有限的水資源無疑會減少時尚界對於原材 料的選擇。品牌生產商應該為緩解水危機 作出貢獻，制定公司用水戰略。”

Sass Brown Assistant Dean, School of Art and Design Fashion Institute of Technology 美國時裝技術學院美術與設計學校院長助理 “I think that 2014 will see gross consumerism well on its way to becoming a thing of the past. It will no longer be considered cool to walk down the high street with bulging bags of fashion purchases, whether from Primark or Chanel. It will be considered far cooler to tell the considered and valued stories of those who knitted, farmed or wove our clothing; using our purchases as a means of expressing our values, not just our personal aesthetic. I think that many people will come to realise the power they wield with wallet, and conscious consumerism will become much more commonplace. There will be an increased interest in purchasing quality over quantity, and more concern about whether those that made our clothes were treated fairly and paid well.”

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“我認為到了2014年，消費主義會 逐漸變得過時。手持一袋一袋的時尚 消費品將不再是一件很酷的事情，哪 怕品牌是Primark還是Chanel。相比 之下消費者會更加著重宣揚那些在生 產我們衣物過程中編織衣物、種植原 材料、或者織布成衣的人有價值的故 事，我們的購買行為將變成一種表達 價值觀的方式，而不僅僅關乎個人審 美觀。我認為更多人會意識到消費的 力量，道德消費主義會越趨平常。消 費者將更著重質量，而不是數量，並 且更加關心生產衣物的工人是否得到 公平的對待及合理的報酬。”

Timo Rissanen Assistant Professor of Fashion Design and Sustainability, School of Fashion Parsons The New School for Design 時裝設計和可持續發展（Fashion Design and Sustainability）助理教授， 帕森設計學院時裝院校（School of Fashion, Parsons The New School for Design） “2014 is a year to follow the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC). Through 2013 SAC has been working closely with fashion educators from across the globe, and we will begin to see fruits of these labors in 2014. The knowledge is there for us to begin to reimagine business models, business thinking and the economic system within which we all exist.

“2014年是時候留意可持續服裝聯盟 （Sustainable Apparel Coalition）的最 新動向。縱觀2013年，聯盟一直與來自世界 各地的時裝教育工作者緊密合作，將在2014 年看到辛勤工作的成果。透過同盟分享的知 識，我們重新構想商業模式、商業思維和經 濟體系。

While I am fatigued by excessive talk in light of insufficient action (and I hold myself just as accountable in this respect as I do everyone else), there is an overdue conversation on value in fashion. The conversation is inseparable from the questioning of growth to measure success. Throughout 2014, I invite you to engage in the question: What are my core values, and do they manifest in my relationship to fashion? As I engage in it, I see a renewed need to reach out to former students now working in the fashion industry. In the words of my visionary friend, Lynda Grose, it is time for us to lock arms.”

雖然我對只有空談而不行動的行為感到厭倦 （我認為自己在這方面和其他人一樣要負上 責任），但我們有必要探討時裝的價值。這 個有關時裝價值的討論與用增長來衡量成功 的質疑是分不開的。2014年，我想你問問自 己：我的核心價值是什麼，而這些核心價值 又能否在我和時裝的關係中體現？當我問完 自己這個問題後，我重新看到接觸現任職於 時裝界的舊生的需要。套我一位很有遠見的 朋友Lynda Grose的話，現在是時候讓我們 一同努力。”

Orsola de Castro Co-founder, From Somewhere, Co-founder and Curator, Estethica 品牌 From Somewhere 聯合創辦人, Estethica 聯合創辦人兼總監 “As the fashion trend moves into the 90’s revival, grunge will be back and up-cycling will fit that look to a tee. I predict modern up-cycling will actually look “up-cycled”, but with a much edgier feel. I believe that in the highend sector there will be a rush to re-embrace artisans and manual skills and that crafts will become a tool for modern luxury once again.”

“踏入九十年代的復古潮流，落拓風街頭服 裝會重返時裝界，而升級再造正好配合，將 造型轉化到一件件T恤上。據我預測，摩登升 級再造將看似「升級再造」，但結合一種更 為時尚的感覺。我相信在高端時裝界將再度 出現對工匠以及手工技藝的急切追求。而那 種手藝會再次成為摩登高級品的生產工具。”

Kate Lin Campaigner, Greenpeace China 綠色和平項目主任連佩怡 “Toxic chemical pollution from the fashion industry is a real and deadly danger for many people in China. Hundreds of millions of people lack access to clean drinking water, while many more are drinking contaminated water. In 2014, I hope more brands will join force to Detox their production chain to add their voice to a global movement demanding fashion without pollution.”

“對許多身在中國的人來說，時裝產業所造 成的有毒化學物質污染是個真正的和致命的 危險。數以億計的人無法獲得乾淨的飲用 水，同時有更多的人正飲用受污染的水。在 2014年，我希望有更多的品牌能合力為生產 鏈「排毒」，為這個無污染時尚的全球性運 動出一分力。”

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