REFINE Magazine Fall 2019: The Sustainability Issue

REFINE

THE SUSTAINABILITY ISSUE

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S IN EVERY ISSUE

MAIN CAMPUS

Behind the Cover Masthead Who We Are Letter from the Editor Francesca’s Edit Staff Spotlight

Temple Community Garden 70 Commuting without Carbon 71 Chairloom Q&A 72 Just Do It 74 The Sustainability Bandwagon 76 Hello, Ola 77 Inside Charles Library 79

THE MINE

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CULTURE The Climate Curriculum Redefining Recycling The Kids Are All Right

12 14 16

FASHION How to Moodboard 18 The Melanin Behind Magic 19 Nuances of Neckerchiefs 20 Mini Shoot 1 30 The Power of the Belt 30 Bold Makeup Looks 31 Wild - Main Shoot 32 Thrift! 42 Mini Shoot 2 44

STUDY BREAK

68

80

Green Goddess 82 Know Your Flo 83 The Art of Letting Go 84 A Waste-Free Week 86 Secondhand Glam 87 Ditch These Brands 88 The Age of Upcycle 91

LOVE Sustainable Sex Products Dating Apps 101 Straight Girls at Gay Bars Body Image & Dismorphia

50 52 54 55

HEALTH

Eat Good, Feel Good Think Twice About Diets Pollution Kills Climate Change Causes Sustainability Clout Healthy Dieting

58 59

60 62 64 66

Photo by HALEY DOMZALSKI

BEHIND T H E C OV E R Our REFINE squad took to Belmont Plateau in Fairmount Park for our main cover shoot in November. Models were dressed in monochrome, oversized outfits, all thrifted, obviously. They were photographed by Dani Meenan, our art director, and beautifully styled by co-fashion directors Diana Garcia and Jediael Peterson.

Dani Meenan | @danimeenan

For a behind-the-scenes look at our main cover shoot, check out our IGTV channel at @refine. magazine. Watch the look-book of our models’ sustainable fits (pictured right). Or, hear how our editor-in-chief, managing editor, and co-fashion directors live sustainably.

Be sure to follow us on all platforms: Twitter: @REFINE_mag Facebook: REFINE Magazine Web: refinemagazine.com

FRANCESCA FUREY: Editor-in-Chief SARAH MADAUS: Founder FIONA WEIR: Managing Editor LINDSAY BOWEN: Senior Editor

EDITORIAL

Culture Editor: DIDEM ARSLANOGLU Features Editor: REBEKAH HARDING FOB/BOB Editor: MAGGIE MANCINI Health Editor: BRIANA VETTER Love Editor: MORGAN SULLIVAN Copy Editors: ARIANA DOS SANTOS, MARYAM SIDDIQUI

ART & DESIGN

Art Director: DANI MEENAN

FASHION

Fashion Directors: DIANA GARCIA, JEDIAEL PETERSON

PHOTOGRAPHY

Video Editor: HOLLY HUEPFEL

BUSINESS

Treasurer: JAYCIE HRICAK

MARKETING & PUBLIC RELATIONS

PR/Events Co-Directors: TAYLOR FRANCK, JENNA GARCIA Marketing Assistants: ZOE CONTE, ASHLEY DELLARATTA, ALEXIS LEVANT, MADDISON SNYDER

SOCIAL MEDIA

Social Media Director: KIMBERLY BURTON Instagram Chief: RACHEL NEAL Twitter Chief: MARY DIAZ Social Media Team Members: NORA ALAMIRI

REFINEMAGAZINE.COM

Digital Editor: SARAH WADDINGTON Digital Contributors: LILY SANDERS, FRANKIE WILKIN, MILLY McKINNISH, HAFEEZAT BISHI, SUMAIYAH BYNUM, MAGDALENA BECKER, NATHALIE CAVALLO, WILL STICKNEY, MALORIE LAZER This issue of REFINE Magazine was designed by Francesca Furey

greetings.

Photo by DANI MEENAN

OUR MISSION

OVERVIEW

Just as diamonds are refined by intense pressure and extracurricular challenges, REFINE magazine will challenge Temple women to think outside of the box. REFINE offers a fresh perspective on campus life: the fashion statements, culture, music trends, health habits, and love lives that Temple women possess, all from one beautifully packaged product.

Our goal is to provide great service to our readers, so that they can navigate through the trenches of college with confidence and grace. REFINE mimics the voice of the reader’s BFF: We love you, but we have no qualms about giving it to you straight.

Across the country, hundreds of universities both large and small pride themselves on their lifestyle magazines. Temple women need more than what’s already offered. REFINE is just that: a lifestyle magazine specifically catered to Temple women.

It is the first of its kind, and will give students the thought-provoking journalism they need, without the stuffiness.

The name REFINE comes from Founder Russell Conwell’s “Acres of Diamonds” speech. Conwell uses the analogy that Temple students are diamonds: they start from pieces of carbon, go through an intense refining process (college), and they come out dazzling and pure.

EDITOR’S LETTER

Photo by DANI MEENAN

ence lingering over the horizon. It was Phoenix.

This once pitch-black land would soon greet a brighter sky. One much like the sky we see in Philadelphia — an orange hue that doesn’t look right. It doesn’t look natural. Temple students are used to this sight, but the animals and organisms who inhabited this land aren’t.

I visited Arcosanti, Arizona, in March 2018.

And this futuristic, eco-conscious city ushered in a new Francesca. Though I considered myself pretty sustainable prior to the trip, the ideas and concepts I discovered there unleashed a beast.

I cut out a majority of single-use plastic, I researched the companies and stores I wanted to give my money to, I encouraged others to follow my lead, and much more. I even interned at Philly’s Zero Waste and Litter Cabinet. Next semester you can find me as an editorial intern at Grid Magazine, a sustainable mag in Philly.

I also came to realize that sustainability is directly connected to one’s well-being. In order to take care of the earth, you need to be of sound mind. Imagine feeling hopeless about the future of the planet and yourself all while trying to adapt to an eco-conscious lifestyle? Not going to happen. Truth is: not everyone can afford being sustainable — mentally or financially.

After overcoming a few of my own fears, I saw a need to introduce this mindset to Temple. People are dying. Lifeforms are dying. The planet is dying. It’ll keep happening unless we shed light on anything and everything.

And REFINE did just that.

It’s my first semester as editor-in-chief and wow, is this issue totally impressive. From the passion and advice of my editors and e-board, to the detailed, impactful content produced by our freelancers, I couldn’t imagine a better approach to something I care so much about. Whether it be a colorful Q&A with an eco-friendly businesswoman, the power of thrifting, or affordable, accessible changes to become more sustainable, you’ll find it here.

Sure, we scratched the surface of sustainability — but if a team of 50+ women can do this, imagine what Temple can do as a whole.

I’ll leave you with this: no matter how small a human is in perspective, we are a part of something much, much bigger. You might feel like one speck under a sky of a million stars, but you have the chance to create change. You matter and your fight matters. But most importantly: Mother Earth Matters.

EDITOR’S LETTER The cool breeze of the Sonoran Desert slithered

around my body trying to find any exposed skin. It nipped at my ankles, my wrists, and my nose. The chilly feeling didn’t scare me. I continued to stare out into the endless miles of desert.

To some, this desert was empty and insignificant. A few cacti here and there. Maybe some coyotes and arachnids if you looked for them. But to me, this land represented stillness. Nothing was compromised by the plight of man. The ecosystem before me was thriving. At least in the moment.

Sprinkled across the night sky were thousands of stars.

Probably millions, but I can’t do math. Some shined brighter, others were larger, and many joined families of other clusters, like the Seven Sisters. I pointed them out to my friend Kait (who ironically drafted astrology content for REFINE in the months following).

We’d never seen so many constellations at once. In this daze of awe-inspired shock, I didn’t see the menacing pres-

XO,

Francesca

FRANCESCA’S EDIT PILEA

MONSTERA ADANSONII MOONSTONE PLANT

GO GREEN OR GO HOME

BUNNY EARED CACTUS

EUPHORBIA TRIGONA

SN AK

EP LA

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Francesca’s holy grail: plant edition

JADE PLANT

POTHOS

L I N D S AY B OWEN STAFF SPOTLIGHT

Front-of-Book Editor Maggie Mancini spoke with

Lindsay Bowen about her experience in news writing, her decision to join the REFINE team, and her sustainable lifestyle. Bowen, who previously served as REFINE’s features editor in the spring, has previously worked at The Temple News, as well as the The Lansdale Reporter, a local newspaper out of Montgomery County. Bowen certainly has what it takes to do amazing work on both ends of the journalistic spectrum.

with stories about the different ways in which Temple students and Philadelphians can adopt sustainable practices.

How do you live sustainably as a student?

LB: I use reusable water bottles and coffee mugs, that’s the biggest thing for me. I try to stay hydrated and I drink a lot of coffee as a college student. I take the subway to work everyday and I try not to use Uber that much.

MM: What do you think is an essential item for people who want to live more sustainably?

MM: Let’s start off with some background. What was it im- LB: I would definitely say a reusable water bottle. And tupportant for you to join the REFINE team? perware, I know a lot of food trucks on campus use disposLB: I got involved with REFINE about a year ago. I really able food containers. wanted to get involved with REFINE because I wanted to explore some other aspects of journalism. I was previous- MM: Other than REFINE, what have you been up to lately? ly the News Editor with The Temple News, and I ended up LB: This past summer I finished my second year as an inleaving there. I just wanted to try a different kind of jour- tern at The Lansdale Reporter. I did a lot of local reportnalism. And I wanted to get into the more creative side of ing. I covered local businesses, profiles of local residents. everything and I thought REFINE was really cool, especially I’m applying for internships for next semester, just figuring on social media. my life out as a junior. I actually registered for this class I’m really excited about for next semester. It’s called “Youth MM: This is your first issue as senior editor. What have you and Mental Health: A Cross-Border Investigation,” and the learned from immersing yourself in this experience so far? class is partnering with a bunch of news outlets in the US LB: I learned to communicate more with people. It can be and Canada and we’re also partnering with other colleges hard when there are a lot of sections to manage, editing in the US. It’s basically a yearlong investigation about how over 40 articles in a week can be a lot, but I’ve really en- mental health is affecting the youth today, so I’m really exjoyed managing everyone and figuring out how things work. cited for that.

Initially when we started the process to get the whole production going, it was fun to look through everyone’s pitches MM: Just to wrap up, what are your plans for winter break? and give them feedback. I really like our blog as well. We We all need some relaxation time after this semester, right? publish two to three articles per week, so it’s been cool to LB: I do have to work, but I actually like my job. I work at be more fast-paced, to turn around an article and get things Saxby’s as a barista. I’ll probably be going back between my done. It was a bit of a challenge at first, but I’m very excited apartment at Temple and here to relax with my dogs. I’ll just for the issue. be working, I might do some freelancing for the Lansdale Reporter, just covering some local events and stories and MM: Speaking of which, our Sustainability Issue is filled things. I’m trying to decompress after a stressful semester.

Photo by DANI MEENAN

THE MINE

C U LT U R E & F A S H I O N & H E A LT H & L O V E PG. 42

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THE MINE | CULTURE

THE CLIMATE CURRICULUM. The climate crisis isn’t being extensively taught in the classroom– and students aren’t waiting for adults to fix the climate crisis for them anymore. They’re standing up. BY SIANI COLÓN When the UN Intergovernmental Panel on

Climate Change 2018 report declared that there were only 11 years left to act on climate change, this infuriated our youth (as it should). It instilled fear as they questioned what type of future they will inherit, if they inherit anything at all.

This rage, fear, and uncertainty fueled their motivation to act and take to the streets, voicing their dissatisfaction at the older generations that have failed them, and their willingness to fix their future. On Sept. 20, students from all over the world participated in the Global Climate Strike.

Hundreds of high school students from the School District of Philadelphia took an unexcused absence to protest in the streets, despite places like New York City not penalizing students that participated.

Despite the growing media coverage and demonstrations spawning on the daily, students in the U.S. may not be receiving a sufficient explanation as to how climate change is directly affecting them in schools. In some schools, students may not be receiving any climate education at all.

According to an NPR/Ipsos poll, 65 percent of teachers do not teach their students about climate change because they believe it is not related to their subject. This raises eyebrows because, in a related NPR poll, it was found that 74 percent of teachers believe that climate change and its potential impacts should be taught in schools.

The need for climate education is recognized but has yet to be fully incorporated in schools. Pennsylvania has yet to adopt the Next Generation Science Standards. Introduced in 2013, the standards provide a framework for middle school and high school students to learn about climate change in their science curriculum.

Climate-deniers and those crediting a “political agenda” as the push behind the education may cause hesitancy to bring up the subject, but it isn’t the overall reason behind the lull.

Teachers are lacking the proper resources and training in climate science, according to a 2016 survey by the National 12

Center for Science Education and Penn State University’s Survey Research Center.

With the topic not included in some textbooks and with information ever-evolving, teachers aren’t fully prepared to teach it without the risk of teaching students conflicting information.

Cindy Nguyen, a junior secondary education major with concentrations in world languages and Spanish, does not recall much discussion of climate change in the classroom before entering college, except briefly in a general science class.

“We had a unit focused on ocean circulations and layers of the earth,” Nguyen said. “That was when we touched on it, but we never really talked about climate change. That was the extent of it.”

Originally from Doylestown, Pennsylvania, Nguyen recalls seeing a multitude of stars scattering the night sky. After coming to Philadelphia, which is plagued by light pollution, Nguyen was disappointed to realize how normal it is to not see the stars. Also noticing the increase in the number of cars on the road, Nguyen finds it sad that society doesn’t care enough about climate change and believes the next generation needs to be taught more about it.

“It’s a problem that isn’t going to fix on its own and if the next generation doesn’t know about it, they’re going to repeat our same mistakes,” Nguyen said.

Nguyen believes that by informing students on eco-friendly alternatives, such as carpooling and compostable products, they would be able to minimize the problem.

For Jackira Gil, a senior early childhood education major, making her classroom sustainable has been an uphill battle.

Gil, who recently started working at a pre-school, has at-

Photo by WILL STICKNEY

tempted to be eco-friendly, but with difficulty. When working with younger students, particularly in pre-school or elementary school, a lot of materials end up going to waste.

“I would love to be able to reuse containers, but at my job the teachers aren’t allowed to use glass,” Gil said.

Though frustrated with the waste, Gil recognizes it isn’t a complete loss because the children have been given an opportunity to grow. She’d like to incorporate some zero-waste swaps instead, but is still met with a challenge.

Large actions are necessary in order to invoke change on a grand scale, but the youth need a place to start and educate themselves. Even as a teacher who may not be teaching a science class, it’s still possible to incorporate sustainable practices or open a conversation about climate change.

Teachers can assign literature in English classes that address the environment, tie key historical events to the acceleration of climate change, or show videos in the classroom.

Reusing classroom materials to the best of their ability eliminates waste, and teachers can teach what is and isn’t recyclable. By introducing students to children their age that have been leading the climate movement, they may become more motivated to step up as leaders.

Another way students can learn about climate change is by volunteering at a community garden or urban farm. Gil

thinks that gardening can be a fun and beneficial way to teach the children.

“I saw a school in South Philly bring kids to a garden and they’re able to grow vegetables, but also go ahead and ask questions,” Gil said.

Nguyen aspires to be a certified Spanish teacher and to receive her ESL certificate. To include climate change in her language lessons, she wants to teach her students new vocabulary words related to the environment. She also hopes to use climate change as a topic for students to practice having meaningful conversations in a different language.

“I feel if we had talked about it in our English classes or history classes and made the connection between say, the Industrial Revolution and climate change, that would have made a stronger impact in realizing it’s a problem,” Nguyen said.

The school curriculum still needs to catch up, but even the smallest of examples can lead curious minds to spark change. It is the responsibility of educators, parents, and older activists to extensively inform and educate the younger generation of the inevitable—the future of the Earth and what we can do to protect our wildlife, how to live sustainably and implement sustainable practices, and advocate through and through.

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BY JULIA ALBERSTON

Every day we both unknowingly and knowingly produce waste. It’s time to take initiative and dispose of our wasteful habits once and for all.

A glass bottle that we take the time to rinse out can make s we toss our trash into those green bins in the manual sorting difficult if it breaks. Even trash made of mulhopes that they are actually recyclable, we may tiple materials such as a metal-plastic combination can furbe causing harm to the planet that we intended ther complicate the process.

One seemingly harmless mishap or wish-cycle can send to avoid.

At one point or another, we have all been taught the “three the whole batch to the landfill, which is a waste of time and R” paradigm of environmentalism, with an emphasis on the money. Most importantly, it is damaging to the planet and third “R.” Recycling is a process in which our plastic, glass, puts more pressure on our resources.

We must be more mindful and collectively combat this metal, paper and other waste can be converted back into those same materials or new materials in order to reduce the ecological guilt first by resisting the urge to wish-cycle and by reducing contamination. demand for new plastics and raw materials.

Yet, there are meticulous conditions for recycling that THE PHILLY FILTH PROBLEM must be followed. Otherwise, we are only perpetuating the polluting and wasteful habits of our industrialized, consumIf you resist the urge to wish-cycle and you scrupulously erist economy. sort out your recyclables, you should be able to trust that the materials can be properly recycled without further conflict.

THE CONSERVATIST’S CONTRADICTION But for Philadelphia residents, their efforts went right down Wish-Cycling. We are all guilty of this well-intentioned the drain. Or, in this case, in the incinerator.

When the news broke out that China was not accepting impropriety. That plastic cutlery and oily pizza box might be recyclable, and can be reprocessed and diverted from a foreign recyclables with contamination rates over 0.5%, the United States had to seriously reevaluate the status quo of landfill, right?

Wrong. Our hearts may be in the right place, but sim- its waste system. An article in the Philadelphia Inquirer deply wishing that unrecyclable materials belong in the green scribed the market conflict causing Philadelphia to simply bins will result in even more waste ending up in the landfill. burn recyclables, rather than take the time, effort, and monOne contaminated item, like a plastic bag or unwashed soda ey to properly recycle them for the long-term health and bottle, can prohibit the other items in the bin from actually well-being of the planet.

The article mentions that Philadelphia’s recyclable conbeing recycled.

Contamination is a huge setback for recycling plants. The tamination rate ranges from 15 to 20 percent. Therefore Waste Management Media Room describes in detail the the city’s previous recycling contractor, Republic Services, dangers of wish-cycling and consequential contamination. had to find other markets to process or dispose of contamNot only can the wrong materials damage equipment, but inated loads in other ways, such as landfills or incinerators.

Although ideally the materials would be recycled, there they have to be separated by hand, which is accompanied by is an upside. Waste Management cannot accept all curbside its own risks and hurdles.

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“We don’t need a handful of people doing zero waste perfectly. We need millions of people doing it imperfectly.”

—Anne-Marie Bonneau, the Zero Waste Chef

recyclables, so the rest is sent to a waste-to-energy plant in Chester, Pennsylvania where the waste is burned to generate electricity. At the facility, there is equipment to keep air pollutants below the federal standards, and the waste is being used as efficiently as possible.

It is unrealistic to keep contamination rates to 0.5% or below. The efforts that go into recycling may be daunting and intimidating to anyone. To complicate matters further, each municipality has its own rules and regulations for recycling. So what can we do as a collective to work toward a more sustainable waste system?

PHILLY RECYCLING GUIDE FOR NON-ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCE MAJORS The types of materials that can be recycled vary by city depending on multiple variables, such as the type of machinery at the recycling plant and the funding. The Philadelphia Streets webpage lists the particular items that can be recycled in Philly. Philly has implemented a single-stream system, in which all recyclables can be put in the same bin. But

since they are all together, this increases the risk of contamination, so it is imperative that everything gets recycled properly.

Plastics, metals, cartons, and glass must be emptied and rinsed. Equally as important, the webpage lists what can not be recycled, such as Styrofoam, plastic bags, paper towels, and soiled cardboard.

REDUCE, REUSE, THEN RECYCE Although recycling is a helpful system, there is a lot of room for error that can be far more detrimental and it enables the distribution and sale of more Photo by SIDRA DROESE single-use items.

Reducing the waste we produce is more efficient than any mechanistic system that could be implemented. Reusing food containers, cups, straws, bags, and any other plastic substitutes can greatly reduce the waste that goes into a landfill. Refusing bags, plastic cutlery, and other single-use items will also help reduce the waste we create.

Small changes in our daily habits add up as we continue shifting toward this zero-waste narrative.

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THE KIDS ARE Youth climate activists are taking charge. BY KELLY THOMPSON

KULSUM RIFA

HELENA GUALINGA

19-year-old Kulsum Rifa, a native of Bangladesh, is a student at the City College of New York.

Rifa is involved in SustainUs and was part of their Climate Summit Delegation this year. She focuses on climate refugees and people displaced from their homes because of the detrimental effects of climate change.

“By 2050, parts of Bangladesh will be underwater. Just the thought of [my family] not having a place to live breaks my heart. If we take action now on climate change, they won’t have to become refugees,” Rifa said in a Vice article.

Helena Gualinga is a 17-year-old from Sarayaku in the Ecuadorian Amazon. Gualinga’s activism focuses on deforestation and indigenous peoples’ rights to land management.

In 2012, the Sarayaku people fought the Ecuadorian government for control of their land, and they won.

“In my territory, we protect the global climate from destruction and that’s why Indigenous peoples’ rights to their territory go hand in hand with climate justice,” Gualinga explained.

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Photos by SUSTAINUS, COMMON DREAMS

In September, 16-year-old Greta Thunberg made a trip across the Atlantic Ocean in a zero-emission racing yacht to attend the United Nations Climate Action Summit in New York City.

At the Climate Summit, she famously declared, “You have stolen my dreams and my childhood with your empty words, yet I’m one of the lucky ones.”

While Thunberg is doing influential and impactful things in terms of climate awareness, she’s not the only one. Here’s a list of just five young women of color, within the same age range, who are taking charge and making a revolutionary change in the fight for climate justice.

E ALL RIGHT. MAKAŚA LOOKING HORSE

Makaśa Looking Horse, 22, is a Native Canadian (Mohawk Wolf Clan and Lakota) activist from Six Nations of the Grand River, Ontario. Looking Horse is currently a student at McMaster University in Canada. Looking Horse and her community took Nestle head-on in 2018. Their fight is part of the larger trend of Native Americans and Canadians fighting large corporations for control of their water supplies.

At a protest in 2018 Looking Horse said, “I don’t want my friends’ babies or their babies to ever worry about not having water.”

Autumn Peltier is another Canadian indigenous water activist. She’s from the Wiikwemkoong First Nation on Manitoulin Island in northern Ontario.

In April 2019, at just 14 years old, she was named chief water commissioner of the Anishinabek Nation. She took over the role from her great aunt, so protecting the Great Lakes runs in her family.

“I’ve said it once, and I’ll say it again, we can’t eat money, or drink oil,” Peltier said at the UN. Peltier’s work has garnered her positive attention, for example, she, like Greta Thunberg, was nominated for the 2019 International Children’s Peace Prize.

MARI COPENY Amariyanna Copeny, or “Little Miss Flint,” is the youngest activist on our list at only 12 years old, but she’s made just as much of a difference.

At age 8, Copeny wrote a letter to President Barack Obama, which reads in part, “I am one of the children that is effected [sic] by this water, and I’ve been doing my best to march in protest and to speak out for all the kids that live here in Flint.”

In response, President Obama visited Flint, Michigan.

Copeny is still involved in Flint activism and says she wants to run for president in 2044. I’d vote for her now, honestly.

Our generation is motivated to push for change.

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Photos by MAKASA LOOKING HORSE, WOMEN OF INFLUENCE, OPRAH MAGAZINE

AUTUMN PELTIER

THE MINE | FASHION

nail the hottest trends using moodboards Slip skirt

Easy to dress up or down, satin and silk are becoming the next big thing in fall fashion. Slip style skirts are a great way to look put together with minimal effort. Wear with a graphic tee, a chunky sweater, or a simple long sleeve top.

Silk cami

Silk camis are very versatile pieces for all seasons but are especially big this fall. You can wear them with jeans and a cozy cardigan for a full day of classes or a skirt and heels for date night.

Cheetah and snakeskin

This season, cheetah and snakeskin patterns are everywhere! From skirts to jackets to ankle boots, these funky animal prints are a staple piece for the fall.

Oversized jean jackets

An oversized jean jacket is a great piece to have in the closet this fall because it’s perfect for layering. Throw on a sweatshirt, leggings, sneakers, and a jean jacket for a chill, relaxed look, or dress it up with some patterned pants, a knit pullover sweater, and Dr. Martens.

Plaid

Plaid is back! Rock a plaid blazer with a basic t-shirt and jeans for a chic but comfortable fall look. If you’re more into plaid pants, throw on an oversized sweater and loafers.

With the transition from summer to fall, it’s natural to want to head to the mall to grab all of these new trends. Despite the fact that impulse buying and fast fashion shopping is exciting at the moment, it’s not so great for your closet, your wallet, or the planet.

Mood boards are a great way to plan out your “vibe” for the season. It’s a fun creative outlet that allows you to get excited about the new season of fashion. By creating a mood board, you can figure out your desired aesthetic for the upcoming season. This will make shopping easier and decide what you staples you need in your wardrobe.

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Once the weather drops below 70 degrees, the dreaded walk to class turns into a runway. Fall trends are flooding Temple’s campus, and REFINE is here to help with what trends are worth adding to your wardrobe this autumn.

BY MOLLY REINHARD

How to moodboard: 1. Discover your fall aesthetic

What do you want to look like this fall? What color scheme do you want to stick to? What items will be a staple in your wardrobe? This is all part of your overall fashion aesthetic for the season.

2. Gather images

They could be color swatches, full outfits, texture, or pattern. Anything that inspires you!

3. Assemble the moodboard

Compile all the images in a way that you like. A collage style mood board is very simple and easy, especially on Canva, where you can find pre-made templates, or start from scratch and make your own. There are many other applications you canuse to create your mood board, such as Pinterest, Moodzer, and Morpholio Board.

THE

MELANIN BEHIND MAGIC: New York Designers of color took New York Fashion Week by storm, here are a few of the show-stopping collections and the creatives behind them. BY RAVEN LAWSON

hats, and cowboy boots to elevate the Western theme.

Designer Romeo Hunte’s collection was a fusion of tailored business attire with classic street style looks and fabrics. He juxtaposed leather biker shorts with white button-up shirts and created hoodies with suit-sleeves.

Styled with neon hoops and bright eyeliner, the models looked like they stepped right out of In Living Color.

In their highly anticipated second collaboration, Zendaya, stylist Law Roach, and Tommy Hilfiger channeled the iconic energy of Harlem during the 1970s. The “Showtime at the Apollo” inspired collection, which took place outside of the historic theater, celebrated Black womanhood and joy.

“Power suits” were redefined by burgundy velvet, snakeskin leather, and modernized wide-leg pants. Models of different body shapes, ages, and skin color were accessorized with large sunglasses and wide-brim hats. Black models proudly wore afros down the runway and danced to music, which Alton Mason did in an embodiment of #blackboyjoy.

Kerby Jean-Raymond, the designer behind Pyer Moss, made his much-anticipated return to the runway in one of NYFW’s most impactful shows.

Opening with a powerful monologue, the final installment “Sister” of the three-part collection “American, Also” paid homage to Rosetta Tharpe, the black trans “godmother” of rock and roll.

Adorned in vi-

brant colors, models bounded down the runway to the sounds of the “Pyer Moss Tabernacle Drip Choir Drenched in the Blood.”

The musical inspiration continued throughout the collection with accents of guitars, piano keys, and music notes.

Models were styled with afros and braids threaded with Lauryn Hill and Erykah Badu inspired gold beads. In his pantsuit take, full satin looks with shoulder pads were created. Collaboration was another focal point with incorporated paintings from artist Richard Phillips, who was exonerated after serving 45 years in prison after being wrongly convicted. As the creative director for Reebok, Jean-Raymond designed tracksuits, puffer jackets, and leggings with an Afrocentric edge.

Blackness cannot be ascribed to one thing, and designers at NYFW proved just that. The collections portrayed the many fashion-forward facets of life we occupy and delivered melanin-saturated shows for all who attended.

“I hope these designers start getting recognition for what they’re doing. I hope they get to showcase their talent and it isn’t overshadowed just because bigger brands have more exposure,” said Kirsten Beach, F.E.T.C.H.’s blog director.

Photo by FLIPPO FIOR

Celebrities, designers, and fashion connoisseurs from across the world flock to the city that never sleeps to participate in the chaotically fabulous whirlwind that is NYFW. The Spring/ Summer 2020 collections hit the runway in September, and this year, designers of color came to slay.

“Just seeing designers of color and how diverse they were and what they brought to the table, was really exciting; they brought the most creativity that I’ve seen in a while,” said Diana Garcia, social media director for the Fashionable Entrepreneurship in Technology and Communications HQ (F.E.T.C.H) club. Garcia is REFINE’s co-fashion director.

While breakout trends like live performances, streetwear, and innovative pantsuits wowed the crowds of fashionable onlookers, diversity and representation took center stage.

The New York established non-gendered brand Telfar opened NYFW with designer Telfar Clemens’ take on elevated travel sportswear. A film collaboration entitled The World Isn’t Everything was projected on the back wall of the venue throughout the show. The cargo pant was reimagined by adding denim accents; the designer even put oversized pockets on vests and t-shirts.

Sportswear wouldn’t be complete without track pants, and these featured unique cutouts often replaced with white fishnet.

Cheetah print, denim, and rawhide chaps created a couture juxtaposition as LaQuan Smith hit the runway with his “haute hoedown” inspired collection. Known for his innate understanding of sex appeal, skintight skirts, bustiers, and matching sets dominated the collection. Smith accessorized with extravagant belt buckles, large cowboy

Fashion Week

n ua n c e s o f neckerchiefs A guide to 10 styles of your favorite fall accessory.

BY GRACE GRENIER Photos by MONICA BOWDEN

Wrap, tuck, tie. Everyone has their terns, or texture to your ensemble, the the outfit. Simply tie the thin scarf or own personal style, and customizing possibilities are endless with this style. this accessory is no exception. Here are 10 ways you can play with your 4. The Anklet Accessorizing your ankles doesn’t scarf collection this season: have to be limited to just jewelry! Grab a bandanna or smaller scarf and test out 1. The Chunky Scarf Looking to go big and bold this this style with any of your fall looks. fall? Try adding a bright and colorful This technique allows you to combine statement piece to your look using a sophistication with your everyday apchunky, oversized scarf. Besides be- parel, giving you a trendy edge. ing practical for the chilly weather, this style of scarf is destined to turn heads 5. The Hair tie Not only do scarves substitute as a and add flair to any outfit. Pair it with your favorite pair of jeans and a neutral headband, but they can also be used to top to add balance. Let your scarf pop! tie up your luscious locks! Including a light, plush scarf into your hairdo is a great way to dress up a lazy bun day or 2. The Corset Wrapping and tying a thinner scarf accentuate your styled mane. You can as a corset is a perfect way to accent any omplement an outfit accent color, too. of your tops this season. Add a pop of color or keep it neutral. There are un- 6. The Choker Just like the anklet, using a scarf as a limited ways to use this style to fit your own personal vibe while giving off a choker is another way to substitute fabpolished look no matter the occasion. ric for jewelry. This style accents your facial features while also adding a modern spin to the choker trend. Match it 3. The Headband It’s no secret that a thin, silky scarf with a top that has a lower neckline to makes a great addition to any hairstyle. add balance to your seasonal ensemble Mix it up this year by adding knots, for an effortless look. bows, or braids to frame your gorgeous face and add some dimension to your 7. the Hankertop Not only do scarves make a great look. Whether you’re looking to incorporate dazzling colors, unique pat- addition to any outfit, but they can be 20

bandanna in the back and you’re ready for the day! Match it with your favorite jacket and you’ll be sure to stop traffic.

8. The Necktie

Similar to the choker, styling your scarf or handkerchief as a necktie is a chic way to frame your facial features and add sophistication to your look.

Instead of hugging your neck, this style is lightly tied around your neck and folded into a triangular shape. The necktie scarf is also a perfect substitute for a statement necklace.

9. The Skinny Scarf

Behold the skinny scarf. This style can be tied and tucked in infinite ways to accentuate your fall looks. Although more understated, the skinny scarf can help bring your whole outfit together and give your ensemble a boho feel.

We all love a good infinity scarf, but when it comes to how you accessorize, sometimes it’s better to experiment and go outside of your comfort zone.

Whether your vibe is edgy or preppy, these scarf styles can easily be incorporated into all of your everyday fall looks.

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BEHIND THE CU RTA I N

Setting: Belmont Plateau Photos by Dani Meenan Styling by Diana Garcia & Jediael Peterson

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Models featured: Anyah Nancy Amir methvin Chidera udeh Kyla Jackson Olivia rakiro Jamillah TONI Alyssa highley

THE POWER OF the belt

Belts are the secret weapon to spicing up your outfits, and here’s how. BY HAYA QUBBAJ

Belts can do so much more than just keeping your

pants up. From cinching your waist to adding pops of color and patterns to your outfit––they’re simply a staple item that everyone needs to incorporate into their wardrobes.

What makes belts such a powerful and staple accessory is that they’re so easy to add to any outfit. You can spice up a simple denim and t-shirt outfit by adding a patterned belt, or you can try pairing one with a cute long-sleeved dress for the colder weather.

Don’t feel like you need to splurge on a collection of belts in different designs, shapes, or patterns. The best thing about them is how easy it is to re-wear the same one with a ton of different outfits––you can wear the same black belt on a skirt, pants, dress, shress (t-shirt dress), a blazer, or on top of a jumpsuit. You can put a belt on anything and everything; the options are truly endless.

There’s a belt for every outfit. From fine and delicate to thick, bold and flashy, you are bound to find a style that’s right for you!

Excited to delve into incorporating belts into your wardrobe? Here are some tips to help you start off:

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1. Ranya Amiri, a freshman health professions major, sug-

gests you wear a thicker belt if you want to make your waist appear more cinched.

2. For those experimenting with fashion and trying to find their style, play around with different silhouettes. If you want to enhance your silhouette, simply wrap a belt around your waist. For example, try putting a belt on top of your oversized t-shirt dress. If you’re feeling really scandalous, opt for a corset belt for an edgier, yet simple look.

3. Another way to spice up your outfits is different textures and materials. Instead of your basic belt, go for one made of velvet, regular fabric, or maybe even one that is decorated with crystals if you’re feeling extra bougie.

4. We can’t help but remind you that there are plenty of belts made of faux leather for our wonderful vegans and vegetarians out there! And for the rest of our readers, we suggest you head towards belts that are made cruelty-free, not only for the animals but also for the good of our environment.

5. Of course, as college students, we understand that you may not always have the funds to splurge on “unnecessary” fashion items, which is why belts are the perfect accessory to experiment with! You can get one at any price range that suits you from stores like Gucci and Kate Spade to H&M or Aldo. You could even hit up your local thrift store for affordable options.

BY LILY SANDERS

BOLD 5-MINUTE MAKEUP LOOKS

Photo by WILL STICKNEY

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s a college student, time is truly a commodity.

While the hour(s) long glam sessions celebrities like the Kardashians undergo seem fantastic, they aren’t exactly feasible for the average 20-something.

Whether scrambling to class or rushing to a party, you can still make a fashion statement in a time crunch. Cut creases and other “Instagram-esque” makeup looks are mesmerizing but can often take an hour to apply. However, striking looks can still be achieved in a pinch.

Here are five bold makeup looks inspired by effortlessly bold runway styles that will have you looking like a model in minutes.

1. Glowy, Dewy Skin

If pressed for time, flawless skin is understated extravagance at its finest. Begin with your typical skincare and foundation routine. Then, the most important part: dab on the perfect highlight. We love the Shimmering Skin Perfector from BECCA and the Anastasia Beverly Hills Glow Kit. Top it all off with FENTY Beauty Gloss and some optional mascara for a gorgeous glow!

2. Red Lip Classic

Few looks are as chic as the timeless red lip; it is a universally flattering color. Traverse the aisles of your favorite beauty or drug store and find a shade that speaks to you. Pair it with a touch of concealer and mascara for a naturally glam look. MAC’s Ruby Woo lipstick is a personal favorite.

3. Bold Brows

In 2012, Cara Delevigne took the fashion world by storm with her big and beautiful brows. The look has been in demand ever since. Fill in your brows with an eyebrow pencil, powder, or pomade of choice. Glossier Boy Brow swipes on with what looks like a mascara wand and is the perfect accouterment for a girl on the go.

4. Gems, gems, and more gems

Euphoria is by far 2019’s biggest show for not only its enticing plot, but also its trendsetting fashion as well. A lot of the HBO show’s characters can be seen sporting face gems. Put two pearl shape gems in the inner corner of your eye with some highlight and mascara for a truly fierce look.

5. Cat-eye… With a twist

A typical cat-eye look can be easily morphed into something much more statement-making with the same amount of work. Try swapping a typical black liquid liner for a colorful shade. Blue and pink hues can truly make eyes pop!

Makeup is fun, and a bold look can boost your confidence. As seen in Vogue’s Beauty Secrets videos, most celebrities have very simple routines sans their glam squad. Sometimes just a pop of color can have you feeling yourself!

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Wild.

Styling by Diana Garcia & Jediael Peterson Photos by Dani Meenan

MODELS: Anyah Nancy Amir methvin Chidera udeh Kyla Jackson Olivia rakiro Jamillah Nesbitt-McEwen Alyssa highley Franchesca sterin

“Sustainability is taking great care of yourself, and that can translate into your wardrobe.�

- Jediael Peterson Co-Fashion Director

All materials of this shoot were repurposed, sustainably-sourced, or borrowed.

THRIFT! THRIFT! THRIFT!

Photo by JULIE WHITE

Fast fashion fits seamlessly with society’s drive for a fast-paced life, but as culture begins to search for a balance, we should start to rethink this harmful trend. BY JOCELYN BRECHBILL

Fast fashion is finally losing some steam as its harm-

ful effects on the environment and laborers are becoming common knowledge. Even individuals’ well-beings are threatened: the magic of the movement’s novelty ideals of low quality, cheap, and on-trend looks is fading, leaving realizations of fast fashion’s connection to society’s harmful standards of hyper-consumerism, and customers ready for individuality and simplicity, in its wake.

In the midst of this shift, many consumers search for sustainable choices. This is great in theory, but ethical and sustainable are not always equivalent to financially friendly.

For many college students, their introduction to sustainable fashion might go a little like this: you read an article, listen to a podcast, or see your favorite public figure endorse the inspiring effects of ethical clothing. Suddenly, you’re ready to change the world through something as seemingly simple as your wardrobe. What’s your next step? For most, it’s searching for sustainable brands. And what do you find?

White t-shirts–beautiful, but white t-shirts nonetheless– that cost $95.

Obviously, this is a little discouraging. How are people, who are swimming in student debt or trying to make a living in the workforce, supposed to clothe themselves, save the world, and still eat something other than the cheapest loaf 42

of white bread they can find at the grocery store?

Well, one answer is thrift shopping.

Not only is thrifting environmentally friendly, but it’s also cheap, fun, and rewarding. Thrift shopping gives you the chance to skip fast fashion’s tempting five dollar t-shirts and create a style that’s all your own. Many seasoned thrifters will tell you there is a simple satisfaction in finding a perfect piece, creating an experience full of intention, meaning, and memories that you can’t find at Forever 21.

Also, if you’re into cool experiences, thrifting is the way to go. Between the people, random objects, old stuff with unknown memories behind them, and a process that rarely leaves much to waste, second-hand shopping is a playground for creative minds.

OK, now that you’re vowing to join this sustainable fashion train for the rest of your days, you should know where to actually buy second-hand clothes. We consulted a few Temple students, then took to the streets to find out what Philadelphia has to offer.

If you’ve lived in Philly for a few years, then you’ve probably heard of Buffalo Exchange and Philly AIDS Thrift. While both of these shops are amazing, they’re also very different.

If you’re new to thrifting, want higher-end products, or like shopping in a place where the music is bangin’, then Buffalo Exchange is where you need to be. Located right in Center City, this shop has a huge selection and good prices for the quality and name brands available.

Philly AIDS Thrift is a fan favorite. We talked to one of the owners of this iconic shop, Christina Kallas-Saritsoglous.

The best part about the store is the people, she said.

“It’s literally every walk of life,” Kallas-Saritsoglous said, “You could have a teenager with a blue mohawk right next to a senior citizen, and they’re just having a good time… that’s the beauty of the whole place.”

She added that like many thrift stores, Philly AIDS’s process is sustainable. They receive donations of used items, put the nicest products on the floor, then put the second-rate stuff into cheap bins to be sorted through by customers. What’s left is donated, recycled, or sold to rag companies for a small profit.

Philly AIDS is known for its eclectic, ‘80s vibe, and it fits right in with its South Street neighbors. It’s a maze of books, records, and some random finds you definiely need.

All the proceeds go to the fight against HIV/AIDS, so really you’re saving the environment and lives by shopping here.

! THRIFT! THRIFT! THRIFT!

Photo by JULIE WHITE

THRIFTING TIPS & TRICKS FROM TEMPLE STUDENTS “I’d say the best thrifting tip is if you see a really good deal, buy it. I didn’t need a North Face from Philly AIDS, but it was one dollar. How could I pass that up? Even if it’s not something you’re sure you’ll wear, you can sell it if you don’t like it or donate again.” — Bailey Fleming, sophomore political science major.

“Bring your own shopping bag. Tons of stores in Philly do student discounts with ID. Shop all sizes/ genders as clothes from different decades and countries have different sizes. Plan to be there for at least two hours, you usually need to try on all the clothes. Inspect shoes very well if purchasing; I’ve had many pairs fall apart soon after buying and it wasted my money.” — Laighla Wisor, sophomore neuroscience major.

“I’d try to learn if your store has a specific restock day each week and visit close to that. It’ll help you score some hot pieces before the racks are picked through.” — Anna Sherman, undeclared freshman in the Tyler School of Art and Architecture.

As we begin to wrap up 2019, it’s clear there is a growing need and desire for sustainability and intentional living, and individuality continues to captivate today’s culture. Thrift shopping seamlessly encompasses all these ideals, and the love for perfectly used items only seems to be growing. So, get out there and thrift before all the good Levis are gone.

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SUGAR+SPICE PHOTOS BY DANI MEENAN Styling by Diana Garcia, Jediael PetersoN

models: Desiree Sawyer, Jamillah nesbitt-mcewen Anyah Nancy, kayla maerz, izzy gomez 44

THE MINE | LOVE

SUSTAINABLE SEX PRODUCTS: Replace Your Bedroom Essentials Heat things up without heating up Mother Earth. BY REBEKAH HARDING

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et’s face it. Things are getting hot—in the bedroom and on the earth. And since it’s cuffing season yet again, that means it’s time to run grab some trusty Trojans and dental dams (and maybe a few extra gadgets), right?

Every year, about 450 million condoms are sold in the USA. Those convenient little rubbers are your bod’s best friend for a spicy two minutes (okay—maybe, like, five if you’re lucky), and then off to the trash they go!

We love safe sex, but the idea of hundreds of millions of used condoms sitting in a landfill for all of eternity isn’t exactly Mother Earth’s idea of a good time. Single-use plastics are rapidly becoming an issue, but obviously, the answer isn’t to just stop using single-use barrier protection. After all, nothing is less sustainable than an STD or unwanted pregnancy.

The infamous local sex emporium, Condom Kingdom, on South and 4th streets not only carries gag gifts (pun intend50

ed) like blowjob bibs and dick-shaped straws but also stocks several popular eco-friendly sex essentials. In their condom aisle, you can opt for ultra-thin condoms from Sustain Naturals that use fair-trade latex and are free of child labor and vagina and Earth-hating chemicals.

A cool trick to make the sustainable dental dam search easier (seriously, where are they?): cut the side and tip of a sustainable condom and unroll it. Condoms and dental dams are both latex-based barrier methods. DIY, am I right?

Another great find one aisle over, Sliquid brand organic lube keeps things comfortable during sex with a partner or self-pleasure. Their water-based H2O Lubricant is vegan-friendly, has recyclable packaging and is safe for plastic, latex, and rubber — it’s condom and toy safe! And it’s even pH balanced (vagina-havers everywhere are cheering).

Lube is often petroleum-based, which is one of the industries leading to the deterioration of our climate. And if it’s killing the planet, you probably don’t want it on or in your

their mission and use buzzwords like ‘organic’ or ‘holistic’ or ‘eco-friendly/earth-friendly’ only to browse their selection and find that they’re selling the same usual line-up of plastic-based sex toys,” Godin said.

Godin recommends the Spanish brand Bijoux Indiscrets for their high-quality sensual wearables and their body product line SLOW SEX. Bijoux Indiscrets has built sustainability into its sourcing and business model, with 90 percent of components made in Barcelona.

“Small-batch pleasure product makers can also be a great bet in finding sustainable manufacturers,” Godin explained.

“Such companies are often more artisanal and may make their products in-house by hand.”

Sustainable, artisan sex products also tend to be higher quality with common materials including glass and porcelain. However, some people may not like that the feeling of skin cannot be replicated without using plastics and silicons.

Shopping sustainably for sex products goes beyond the actual products you’re choosing. Shopping locally cuts down on the packaging needed for shipping and supports local commerce. Trust me, Amazon doesn’t need more of your hard-earned cash.

While sustainable sex hasn’t peaked in the market, think back to when organic food and veganism first hit the mainstream. I have a feeling it’s right around the corner.

How about you?

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Photos by ALEX FURGIUELE, THOMAS VERBRUGGEN

body. Sliquid Naturals is free from petroleum and other nasty ingredients. Hurray!

I get it, not everyone is comfortable bravely venturing into South Philly’s multitude of sex shops. It can be intimidating, especially if you don’t know what you’re looking for. Luckily, the online market for sustainable sex supplies is booming and online sellers usually opt for super discrete packaging.

Senior journalism student, Paloma*, first heard about Package Free Shop’s biodegradable vibrators from founder Lauren Singer via her popular zero-waste advocacy YouTube channel, Trash is for Tossers.

“I heard about sustainable condoms or something like that in passing, but nothing else in terms of sex products.

[The compostable vibrator] was half an impulse buy, not gonna lie,” Paloma explained. “There were two versions of it, and I got the more miniature version.”

Package Free Shop is an online mecca (with a storefront in Brooklyn) for all things minimum to zero waste. They even carry a selection of meltable massage candles, the fan-favorite Sustain condoms, and those handy, compostable bullet vibrators.

Colleen Godin, pleasure product marketer and sexual health writer, cautions against sex product companies greenwashing or falsely marketing their products as eco-friendly.

“I’ve come across a few shops that claim sustainability in

DATING APPS 101 We Tried all of the Competing Dating Apps & Here’s What We Found

BY MAGGIE MANCINI

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It seems to be what every song is about.

Every movie, every piece of art––it’s all about love, companionship, and fitting yourself somewhere in the middle.

Meeting people has never been simple, but as technology advances, so have our methods of interacting with people.

Online dating has always had the same methodology: fill out a profile, look at other people’s profiles, collect matches based on reactions to your profile, and message each other.

Something that the leading dating apps––namely Tinder, Bumble, and Hinge––have tried to do is distinguish themselves among the others while not retreating too far from that same system.

On Bumble, women pick their matches and are given the “first move” in heterosexual matches. For Hinge, the app’s interface encourages you to get off the app and meet people in person. On Tinder, the ability to SuperLike has changed the game in terms of maximizing your chances of getting a match.

Though I’ve had a Tinder account since starting college, I rarely use it. However, the interface is simple.

You can add up to nine photos––hopefully current, or else you could risk a subtle catfish upon meeting matches. You can also add your school, your job, your Instagram, your Spotify, and your sexual orientation.

Though the profile-making process is less thorough than its competitors, Tinder has the benefit of being the most popular of the three apps. Plus, there’s the infamous Tinder bio. Though both of the other apps have a space for a short “about me,” the Tinder bio in many ways is an art form. For a lot of users, it is the only real way of discerning someone’s personality from their profile.

While building my profiles on each of these apps, I try to come up with something that fits their vibe. I’ve found that a Tinder bio should be witty and catchy, if not completely forward. A Bumble bio should be more casual. And a Hinge

bio should reflect who you really are.

According to Bumble Honey Campus Director Emma Casella, the Bumble mission is a simple one: “to create a world free of misogyny where all relationships are equal.”

Though originally just a dating app, Bumble has recently revamped to include Bumble BFF and Bumble Bizz, both designed to help people connect with each other and make the first move for themselves.

Like Hinge, Bumble’s profile-building process involves choosing from a list of generated questions to help begin conversations and display a sense of your personality for potential matches. From this, women in opposite-sex matches can choose from a list of conversation starters if they’re having trouble making the first move.

Hinge’s entire brand is built on the premise that meeting in person is the end goal, and its interface allows you to be specific with that goal. Hinge helps you keep track of your messages by alerting you when it’s your turn to respond.

You can swipe freely, or choose from a list of profiles who have already swiped on your profile and go from there.

With all the good comes the bad. While I haven’t had any trouble with the people I’ve met through Bumble, I have met some serious duds on Tinder and Hinge. My last birthday was a special one for many reasons, but being ghosted by a guy I didn’t know I actually liked is something out of a forgettable teen drama––just disappointing.

For me, Bumble is the easiest to use, and it never leaves me feeling uncomfortable - since I control the messaging process, it’s easy to tell the difference between solid matches and total duds.

Since it’s officially cuffing season, get ready to swipe your way into the next chapter of your story, or to just find someone to keep you company.

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WORD ON THE STREET: STRAIGHT GIRLS AT GAY BARS n late June 1969, Stonewall Inn in New York City was raided by police. Police entered the Greenwich Village establishment ostensibly because it was running without a liquor license.

The Stonewall Inn couldn’t obtain a liquor license, however, because the state refused to license to bars that catered to LGBTQ patrons, effectively forcing them underground.

According to the Atlantic, six days of violent resistance kicked off when a woman being led into a police van asked, “Why don’t you guys do something?”

Fifty years later, we remember the initial police raid and the progress that followed it in a month-long celebration: Pride Month. And hey, it started in a gay bar. So this raises the question: should straight girls go to gay bars?

This seems like an easy question to answer, but it’s a lot bigger than it originally lets on. I’m not only interested in the basic yes or no here, but rather the details. If a straight girl goes to a gay bar, how should she act? How do her actions affect the community? Before I get too deep into it, please note that I will be calling these places “gay bars” despite their diversity of clientele.

It’s no secret that straight girls, and straight people more generally, frequent LGBTQ establishments. Some come as friends or as allies, and others come as observers. Philadelphia’s Gayborhood is full of these places, such as Woody’s, who, according to their website, has been “proudly serv[ing] the community for over 38 years.”

So, what’s the issue? I started this article with a bit of history to illustrate 54

the gay bar’s importance to the community. Stonewall is the moment, one you’ve probably heard of. When Amazon changes their logo to a rainbow for a month, they’re doing it because trans women of color and other queer people started a six-day riot over the raiding of a gay bar. These spaces are important, and they deserve to be shown respect.

I spoke to two queer Temple students about the issue, one who has gone to a gay bar and one who has not, and their opinions on the subject are somewhat similar.

“I feel like it’s important to be a safe space for people of [the LGBTQ community], but I don’t think that it should be exclusive to others. Because, essentially, we’re working in unity that’s within a broader community,” said Gabriel Velazco, a junior College of Public Health student.

Both students agreed that it was impractical to bar straight people from LGBTQ establishments on sight because that’s just straight-up impossible. I know people pretend they can tell who is and isn’t queer, but let me just set the record straight: you can’t.

Once this is established, the discussion turns to how a straight person should comport themselves within a gay bar.

It’s really simple: with respect.

Specifically, treat the queer people

around you with respect, like they’re actual human beings like you. And check your prejudices at the door. A reminder: not all queer women want to sleep with you. However, you’re at a gay bar, so don’t be offended if someone’s into you.

“I would only get offended if it got far enough into it that I was being led on ... I don’t want to be someone’s guinea pig,” said Camila Tucci, a junior social work major and secretary of Temple’s Queer Student Union.

History and privilege aside, she hit on something I think is emblematic of our generation of LGBTQ people.

“I think it’s okay for us to have [a] space where we can come together,” Tucci said.

I think it’s okay, too. I just hope we don’t forget where we came from. A particularly harsh saying I’ve heard a few times is, “The only straight people at Stonewall were the cops.”

Yikes. But if we think about it, if a riot broke out at Woody’s today, that wouldn’t be true. That’s progress.

Photo by DANI MEENAN

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A quick history lesson and conversation with queer students at Temple help shine some light on this tough question. BY KELLY THOMPSON

BODY IMAGE & RELATIONSHIPS: SHINING LIGHT ON A TABOO SUBJECT Three college-aged women open up and share some insight into their experience with the intersection of body image and romance.

BY LILY SANDERS Everyone has mental health, but not everyone has a mental illness. Similarly, not everyone who struggles with body image is diagnosed with Body Dysmorphic Disorder, a clinical mental illness defined in the DSM-5 as a “distressing or impairing preoccupation with imagined or slight defects in appearance.”

Regardless of an official diagnosis, body image is something college-aged women undoubtedly struggle with. A shocking statistic from a Georgetown University study says that 74 percent of college women are unhappy with their weight and/or appearance, and approximately 20 percent of all college aged students experience eating disorders.

The topic of body image is something that can affect every facet of a person’s life––especially relationships. Three women graciously told REFINE their stories of juggling negative body image and romance. It is important to note that more than 30 women offered to share their own stories, showing just how widespread the phenomenon is.

Photo by DANI MEENAN

Names have been changed to maintain anonymity Phoebe: 21 years old, junior, questioning Diana: 21 years-old, second-semester senior, bisexual Emma: 19 years old, not in college, lesbian

Continue reading on Pages 56-57.

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Q&A Starts Here How would you characterize your relationship with body image? Do you have a formal BDD diagnosis, or is body image simply something you have struggled with on your own?

Phoebe: I’ve struggled since middle school. I think that is when everyone, or me at least, started becoming aware of body image. In high school, I was diagnosed with anorexia.

I still struggle with it sometimes, but I’m “cured.” Sometimes I’ll go through a weekly phase where I am hyper-conscious of my choices.

Diana: It’s something I personally struggle with on my own. I was able to overcome my struggles without professional help.

Emma: I’ve never had a formal diagnosis, it was more of something that a therapist and doctor told me I had without ever blatantly saying, “you have BDD.” It’s something I have always struggled with, and I feel it’s gotten harder to handle on my own as I’ve gotten older.

Do you think that your sexual orientation has an impact on your body image?

Phoebe: For sure, I’ve only been with guys, but I was dating this guy for almost two years. It was when I felt the worst about my body. I was always jealous or self-conscious about stuff, like when I heard he would be watching porn because I felt like I didn’t look like that [pornstars]. I was really in my head about it. I’m not like that anymore, thankfully, but it made it hard to not get upset about that stuff in our relationship. He got upset too because he knew I couldn’t help it. I think if I was with a girl it might be easier because girls have similar things with their bodies. Like I feel like if I was with a girl we might have a better understanding.

Diana: It’s something I’ve been trying to figure out for a while. I’ve been in two very long term relationships and I haven’t been single since I was 16. First was with a girl, the second was with a guy. I didn’t realize I was interested in guys until college. I felt good about myself with a woman, but with the male gaze and everything and the way we conceptualize heteronormative relationships is different.

Emma: Yes! Growing up, I always remember seeing lesbians who were both very femme or it was a masculine lesbian with a super, super femme partner who is usually tiny. I think that subconsciously, I feel that my long hair is 56

important because otherwise, I’ll look “too masculine” in comparison to my partner. Also that I’m not the teeny-tiny femme girlfriend that a masculine lesbian would want to be seen with because I’m not small and petite nor am I super femme.

Do you think social media has an impact on how you view your appearance and your interactions with current, past, or potential partners?

Phoebe: I think it definitely does. I had to unfollow a bunch of accounts I normally looked at. They would make me feel bad about myself. It took me a while to realize things on social media aren’t necessarily real. Pictures of models are edited, there’s lighting, angles, all this stuff. It took me a while to realize things on social media are basically a highlight reel. I am trying to get to a point with myself where I can appreciate the beauty of others, but not tear myself down about it.

Diana: I was never someone to follow many celebrities, but looking at people that I know still made me self-conscious. But it’s also kind of liberating that I deleted [social media] because I felt no longer constrained by those standards.

Emma: Social media in itself is huge because I’m constantly shitting on myself for not looking like all of these other women do––even with the body positivity movement, I don’t see myself. I can’t pick out my body shape from that movement which makes me feel even worse in my skin.

Are there any other major factors you believe have had an impact on your body image in relation to romantic relationships?

Phoebe: There’s a weird trend right now where it’s glorified to either look “thick” with big boobs, a tiny waist, and a butt or model thin. I struggle to find my place in it all. I feel like no matter what you look like society will always pressure you to look like the other.

Diana: The lowest point I was at was in middle school and early high school, I relied on these really lofty compliments from my partner. I seek this confirmation from her, so when I lost that, my self-esteem took such a big dip. In the past, I think relying on affirmation from partners has affected me.

Emma: There was another partner I had who would specifically grab areas that I would let them know were no go zones. For example, my stomach is a huge insecurity of mine, so much so that I really don’t even acknowledge a shirt touching it because it sends my mindset down the drain. This person would specifically touch it during sex, or even in public which would cause me to totally shut down.

Has a prior or current partner ever been aggra-

vated by or acted insensitively towards your self-image?

Phoebe: Yeah, like I said I would argue with my boyfriend. He would not try to get mad at me, he was more upset I was feeling that way. It definitely made things hard because I wouldn’t trust him when he said I looked so beautiful. Obviously it was not a great situation.

Diana: My former partner. For her own reasons, she was very big about faking it to you make it and saying she was ok when she wasn’t. Even if I didn’t talk about these issues if I made a negative comment she would get mad at that. She hated when I criticized herself. I know she meant well, but I felt like I couldn’t talk about those things with her.

Emma: Physically, it’s the cause for a lot of crying and disbelief that someone can actually be attracted to me.

That’s the biggest issue––I’ve been in a relationship for 3 years with the same woman and yet I still don’t believe that she can be physically attracted to me because of [my] BDD. She tries to be reassuring but most often it ends in tears or just shutting down mentally.

this. I hate being in photos. I try to avoid them when possible because that’s an area I feel very sensitive to. It doesn’t affect our day to day, but it also sucks because I don’t have a ton of pictures with people. I always volunteer to take pictures for others. I mean if I am going through a period of disordered eating I tend to be very restrictive, that can be detrimental to how deal with food-centric outings. I don’t want to draw attention to myself. I have canceled plans because of this.

Emma: I can’t go clothes shopping with friends without either having a panic attack or completely and totally shutting down. Eating is really difficult because I see my friends are all fairly small (I am a size 10 and they are between 0-4).

It makes me insecure to indulge in a meal or even get a coffee. It causes a lot of undiagnosed social anxiety as well because I find myself avoiding social situations, or even going for a walk in areas where I know there will be people for fear of being stared at, or people noticing my insecurities or being a figure to compare themselves to that will make them feel more confident.

Is there anything you would like to tell other women that struggle with body dysmorphia and their current, former, or future partners?

Phoebe: I’d like to tell other women that whatever state they’re in now, it will get better at some point. Just tell yourself to make super tiny steps everyday and it’ll get better and better. Never lose hope. I’d like to tell their partners to be patient and try to be understanding. Don’t be afraid to ask your partner about their feelings Diana: I would say it really helps to have a partner, not necessarily romantic, but someone you can talk to so you’re not alone, a friend, family member, or therapist that can help. I think so much of my progress in this issue can be due to me having someone to talk to, because they can help you look at everything objectively. You also just gotta have some self-compassion we’re all worthy! For partners: be patient, try to be understanding, and don’t be afraid to ask them questions and communicate to help them in the best way possible.

Emma: I know how difficult it is, especially when you’re fighting for confidence but every day-every hour you see something different in or about yourself. Every mirror adds different shapes or weights to an already wilted ego. Please do not let that discourage you from enjoying the brief moments of confidence that you’ve worked so hard for and not What about non romantic relationships?

Phoebe: I sometimes get very insecure around even my let it stop you from continuing to work for them. Partners: close friends, and I find myself comparing to my friends. I be aware of the insecurities without making a big deal out of never act on it, but it sometimes puts me in a sad mood even them. Don’t assume, just ask and make sure you’re respectful of the boundaries such as not going into crowded public when we are just hanging out.

Diana: Very few friends of mine know I struggle with places, wearing flashy clothing, etc.

To what degree do you think body image affects the physical component of your relationships?

Phoebe: Physically, when he would want to be sexually involved. I would get shy and it would fizzle out, that’s not fun. Mentally it would cause a lot of problems. He felt like I didn’t trust him, but it wasn’t me it was my brain and the way I viewed myself.

Diana: It doesn’t necessarily affect my current relationship negatively. It’s something we are both conscious of.

My partner has definitely learned to read my body language.

If I’m covering my stomach consciously, or closing in on myself he knows when to talk it out with me. It’s not a bad thing, but definitely comes up a lot. At this point, but partially because we’ve been together for pretty long, it’s not that much of an issue. I don’t know how it would play if I were to suddenly break up with him and enter another relationship.

Emma: It is rare that I ever feel confident enough to engage in sexual activity, and while she knows that, I think it makes her feel like I’m not as attracted to her which causes issues in our relationship like lack of trust and makes her feel insecure.

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THE MINE | HEALTH

Rutgers’ New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station defines farm-to-table as “a food system in which food production, processing, distribution, and consumption are integrated to enhance the environmental, economic, social and nutritional health of a particular place.”

Basically, it’s bringing food production closer to home and enhancing transparency in where food comes from. This movement grew as doubts for processed foods increased and people began demanding more fresh, local ingredients in their food for their nutritional benefit. Farm-to-table restaurants are popping up in places from sprawling metropolises to small midwestern towns and have gained popularity nationwide.

Just how manageable is this business model?

Sonny Ingui, the executive chef at Urban Farmer Steakhouse on 18th Street and Benjamin Franklin Parkway, thinks it’s incredibly sustainable for a restaurant. The Urban Farmer’s mission is for their chefs to have a personal relationship with the farms they source from. Ingui grew up on a farm in South Jersey, so knowing the conditions the animals he is serving are raised in is incredibly important to him as a chef.

“If you have to preemptively shoot them full of antibiotics, it’s not something that I want to consume nor do I want to feed it to people,” Ingui said, referring to some ways other restaurants source their meat and fish.

Urban Farmer is huge, so it’s not possible to source all of their food from local farms, so they have co-operatives that 58

Finally, splurging on damn good food without all the guilt.

help them get organic vegetables from New York, New Jersey, and places in Pennsylvania, like Lancaster County. For Ingui, this helps reduce the carbon footprint from transporting food and support the community and economy we are in, rather than a corporate operation halfway across the country.

Not only local vegetables, produce, and meat are part of the processes of a farm-to-table restaurant, but carrying a seasonal menu as well. At Urban Farmer, the menu changes four times a year, and they try to gear it towards what people will want to eat with regards to the season (heartier in the winter, lighter in the summer, etc.). During winter months, when there is not as much fresh produce available, one might think it would be more difficult to come up with creative ways to serve rutabaga and spinach, but Ingui is up for the challenge.

It’s not always about the elements, but the cooking techniques, such as different braising methods with meat to make it heartier, Ingui said.

“There’s a lot of different things you can really come up with, it just taps into the chefs creativity,” he added.

One of the biggest critiques of farm-to-table restaurants is they are expensive and a burden on the producers. The average Philadelphian or college student is not always able to afford upwards of $45 in a steak dinner. What’s worth the splurge is a peace of mind: knowing you are supporting a small business which treats their livestock humanely and does not use pesticides on their vegetables.

“I think it really translates onto the plate in my field when I see something that a chef took his or her time to create something that is locally inspired and locally sourced,” Ingui said.

So, next time you’re planning a night out on the town or a “treat yourself” day, consider making a reservation at one of the many farm-to-table restaurants, like Will BYOB in Passyunk or White Dog in University City. Though it might require some saving, you know that your meat and vegetables are of high quality, you are supporting sustainable restaurant practices, and there is transparency in what’s on your plate.

Photo by DANI MEENAN

EAT GOOD, FEEL GOOD.

BY SARAH WADDINGTON

THINK TWICE ABOUT DIETS T

he Union of Concerned Scientists claims that meat-eating is the second-biggest environmental hazard facing the Earth.

With only 18 months to save our planet, we need to take into consideration every way we can contribute to keeping the Earth alive. It’s absolutely crucial for us to conserve the environment. One simple way to do this that’s often overlooked is altering our diets and consuming more plantbased food.

Raising livestock takes up a larger portion of land than raising crops. Countless trees are chopped down in order to provide land for animal farms. The loss of these trees can result in the destruction of habitats and animal extinction. This deforestation damages air quality, putting our health at risk.

It’s important to note that water is a scarce resource that millions of humans are unable to access, and a substantial amount of it is used for raising those animals. In the U.S. alone, 2,500 gallons of water is needed to produce a pound of meat. Eventually, their waste products are washed into river streams that enter our oceans, leading to water pollution and the death and extinction of many aquatic animals and plants.

Overall, animal agriculture doesn’t just contribute to animal cruelty, but also deforestation, soil erosion, the production of greenhouse gases – and we can’t forget the water pollution that impacts the living conditions of turtles (and numerous other aquatic animals). Animal agriculture is responsible for more greenhouse gases than all the world’s transportation systems combined.

Isabella Vossi, a junior media studies and production major, has been a vegetarian for three years.

“I chose to become a vegetarian because the mass production of meat causes animals to be treated very cruelly, which is not something that I want to take part in,” Vossi said,

“And also the production of meat has a big negative impact on our environment so I wanted to do my part as much as I could with reducing the effects on our environment.”

Besides the environmental benefits of transferring to a more plant-based diet, going vegan/vegetarian is beneficial for our health, as overindulgence in meats is often linked to increasing rates of heart disease, cancer, and obesity.

If we want our Earth to survive, we need to be more mindful of the corporations we support with our money, this includes, but is not limited to, food corporations and the meat industry as a whole. As more people switch to plant-based diets, the meat production industry will be provided with less money to enable animal cruelty and the destruction of our environment as a whole.

We understand that completely transitioning your diet isn’t entirely easy, so we asked some of your fellow Temple vegan and vegetarian students for tips.

“A piece of advice is don’t try to cut meat out of your diet completely,” said Sonia Purohit, a junior media studies and production major. “Do small changes and then work your way up so your body can adjust. Morning Star products are the best brand for meat alternatives.”

Vossi advises Temple students to search campus for restaurants with vegetarian or vegan options.

“Temple provides a lot of options, not only in the dining hall and the student center, but there are also various food trucks around campus that serve vegan and vegetarian options,” Vossi said.

It may be a difficult change. But Purohit says to be patient.

“I know friends who have tried to switch and they were too hard on themselves,” Purohit said. “It takes a while for your body to adjust.”

Remember Owls, there’s no planet B. Be sure to do your part to live a sustainable life to help conserve our only Earth!

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Photo by ALAINA McLEARNON

When eating meats and dairy you are aiding the destruction of our only Earth, here is why and ways to live by a more sustainable diet. BY HAYA QUBBAJ & LAMA QUBBAJ

POLLUTION KILLs 60

Our earth is calling for help.

Here’s how Temple students taking steps to combat air pollution.

BY JULIE KIM

Breathe in. Breathe out.

Actually – think twice about that.

You may have heard that air pollution is hurting the earth, but have you thought about how it’s affecting your body?

According to the American Lung Association’s 2018 State of the Air report, Philadelphia is ranked number 12 out of the top 25 cities in the U.S. with the most air pollution.

Pollution is anything that is having a negative effect on the environment on land, water, and air.

All living things depend on Earth’s natural supply of air and water. And when these resources are polluted, all forms of life are threatened.

There are two types of air pollution prevalent in the United States: ozone levels and particle pollution. Philadelphia is categorized as one of the cities with the worst ozone pollution, receiving an F for ozone levels and C for high particle pollution.

The ozone layer, located in the upper atmosphere (the stratosphere), is invisible but essential to protect humans from direct radiation from the sun. However, when the ozone develops ozone smog from gases that come out of tailpipes, smokestacks and other sources, it be-

comes detrimental to our health.

Particle pollution refers to a mix of “solid and liquid particles” that are in the air we breathe.

Dirt, coal, road wear, mining operations, smoke, and construction (we experience plenty on our Temple campus) create coarse particles. The smaller the particle, the greater the harm it will have on our bodies. The Environmental Protection Agency says that smaller particles can “penetrate deeper into your lungs, thus having the potential to enter the bloodstream.” Particle pollution can increase the risk of heart disease, lung cancer, and asthma attacks, which then interferes with the function of lungs.

Many of us enjoy spending time outdoors on the beach or soaking in the sun and beauty of the city on the daily. People who are especially vulnerable to the effects of breathing polluted air include children, teens, anyone older than 65, people who work or exercise outside, and people with lung (asthma) and cardiovascular diseases.

“I know that as far as actual data, the city of Philadelphia has a higher index of poor air quality,” said Lizy Pierson, a junior working towards her masters of public health. “I know that when I walk down the streets of Temple, I try to avoid paths when there’s a nasty smell or I just don’t

4 simple ways to fight air pollution on campus:

1

Spend less time on the road with a car; try carpooling, buses, subways, walk, bike, etc.

breathe it in because I know there can be serious long term effects.”

Temple has made efforts to reduce pollution by banning tobacco on campus which took effect on July 1, 2019. Tobacco contributes to toxic waste, air pollution, forest fires, and more.

Kirstin Chalupa, who is a graduate research assistant at the College of Public Health a 2019 public health alumna, emphasized that the process of Temple becoming a tobacco-free campus is “not going to happen overnight, but we are expecting more of a cultural change that will probably take a couple of years.”

Overall, the purpose of the campus going tobacco-free is to create a healthy living environment and to reduce secondhand smoke exposure because “particulate matter in the air can cause a variety of health issues,” Chalupa said. And she couldn’t be more right: some issues may include problems with breathing and an increased risk of lung cancer.

“I have seen the difference in the smell of campus since the campus went tobacco-free,” Pierson said.

“I support the policy to enact a tobacco-free campus because it is a right to smoke, however, there are people with conditions that have a harder time to breathe [when second-hand smoke is present],” said Tom Zhao, a sophomore political science major.

2

Follow the tobacco-free guidelines and remind others (in a friendly way) that the campus is making efforts to be tobacco-free.

3

Don’t burn your trash (or homework!)––recycle. Dispose of other waste properly.

4

Participate in state and local efforts to clean up air pollution and address climate change.

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You’re Not the Cause of Climate Change.

With little time left to help our Earth, we ought to condemn who’s really responsible.

BY BRIANA VETTER

ILLUSTRATIONS BY FRANCESCA FUREY

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Hydroflasks. Metal straws. Teslas. Living zero waste.

As individuals, there is a lot we can do to be more eco-friendly and live sustainably, and our individual actions can build up to make a huge difference.

Still, we need to recognize who the real contributors to climate change are if we really want to change the course of global warming. According to the 2017 CDP Carbon Majors Report, only 100 companies are responsible for about 71 percent of all global greenhouse gas emitted in the last 31 years.

These large companies need to take responsibility for the harm they are causing to the earth, especially when they have the money to fix it. Amazon produced 10,000 tons of waste from its packaging last year. It’s easy to blame the waste problem on consumers, but it becomes easier to blame Amazon when you find out they paid zero dollars in income taxes in 2018 (on $11 billion in profit).

Chevron Corporation, a large oil company, also paid nothing in income taxes in 2018. It was recently charged by the Ecuadorian Government for contaminating the drinking water through toxic waste dumping.

The apathy of these companies and many others is a symptom of living in a capitalist country. Amazon and Chevron were given $129 and $181 million dollar tax rebates by the federal government, respectfully. When a society is focused more on profit and less on the destruction left behind in its path, the Earth, and its inhabitants suffer greatly. Large tax rebates in the name of stimulating the economy will be fruitless when there is no Earth on which there is an economy to stimulate.

Rishva Iyer, a senior information and technology science major, said the environmental footprint of companies will have an effect on where she chooses to work in the future.

“We only have a short time to fix the environmental damage that has been done by large corporations before it’s too late,” Iyer said. “It’s definitely something that I will be looking into when I graduate, whether the places I apply to have an agenda that will help our Earth or hurt it.”

Powerful individuals, not just corporations, also have a large negative impact on the environment. Every time a celebrity flies private instead of “pooling” on a larger plane, they’re emitting harmful gases into the air. Every time a musician overproduces CDs that go unbought, the surplus takes over one million years to decompose in a landfill.

British band The 1975 moved towards more sustainable practices by reusing old unsold merchandise and reprinting it with new artwork. Their lead song from their new album “Notes on a Conditional Form” is a monologue from climate activist Greta Thunberg. If every wealthy person had

this level of personal responsibility regarding their impact on the environment, it would make a much larger impact than one average consumer’s personal changes ever could.

Individuals are constantly charged with the progression of climate change, with Time Magazine even going so far as to blame people with asthma. The most cogent individual action against climate change is to lobby our federal government to pass legislation that penalizes large companies and the extremely wealthy when their actions burden the environment.

This shouldn’t discourage people from switching to reusable grocery bags or using public transportation. We obviously are in need of a cultural change that favors sustainability and our Earth, but begging our government to do something about it while we do nothing is a blatant form of cognitive dissonance.

But, knowing that we’re not the sole agent in climate change is important, especially when a lot of popular forms of sustainability are out of reach for people of low to middle socioeconomic statuses.

Use your Yeti tumbler and do so proudly, but don’t forget who can make the biggest difference, and don’t let them forget it, either.

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B o o s t i n g Yo u r

s u s ta i n a b i 448 million tons of plastic was produced in 2015, according to National GeographBY DEVYN TRETHEWEY ic. Of this 448 million tons produced, 5.3 to 14 million end up in our beautiful oceans that are home to many amazing creatures. Single-use plastic is the root of the problem of plastic waste because it only serves a purpose once and then becomes useless. By using products that take the place of single-use plastic that can be re-used multiple times, the production per year will steadily decline. Be proud to be a part of a much bigger solution.

reusable ziploc bags

bamboo towels

$10

$10

Whether it’s a snack to take to class or leftover veggies from the Farmers Market outside of Ritter, these reusable Zip Lock bags allow you to easily transport and store food without the excessive use of plastic. They’re hand-washable for repeat usage and come in many convenient sizes. They are also freezable!

College life always calls for paper towels, but they’re extremely wasteful, and a roll doesn’t seem to last more than one week. Bamboo towels come in a roll, too, but are machine washable! They’re essentially the same but don’t go out on trash day. One roll of bamboo towels replaces six months of paper towels and are Swiffer compatible.

STAINLESS STEEL STRAWS

BEESWAX FOOD WRAP

$10 Straws are a major waste of plastic, especially at universities. By replacing plastic straws with reusable steel straws, you are saving big time on plastic waste. These straws come in different colors, can be easily transported in a backpack around campus, and also comes with a cleaning brush.

They’re also dishwasher safe and VSCO girl approved.

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$15 Another major waste of plastic is plastic wrap used to conserve leftover food and microwave food. Not only are beeswax food wraps biodegradable, reusable, and plastic-free, they also come in super cute patterns and colors to add a pop to your fridge.

l i t y C lo u t reusable K-CUPS SILICON BOWL COVERS

$13 College students run on coffee, and Keurigs are a very popular and easy way to make coffee in an apartment or dorm.

However, K-Cups are made of plastic, so daily users are creating a lot of excess waste that isn’t biodegradable. These reusable coffee filters for Keurigs allow you to save on buying K-Cups and limit the amount of plastic you throw out every day. Reusable coffee filters also let you purchase your own specific ground coffee to put into it, instead of buying pre-filled cups for your Keurig.

REUSABLE CLOTH BAGS

$12 Meal prepping is a super easy and healthy way to eat well.

Instead of using plastic wrap to store your leftovers, which just gets thrown away after one use, invest in silicone bowl covers that come in all different shapes and can be easily washed for reuse.

STAINLESS STEEL TUMBLER

$9 $13

All of these items are an alternative to single-use plastic and will help you be a part of the solution for over production of plastic. Not only will you be helping to decrease plastic production but you will also be able to sleep soundly at night knowing you do not contribute to the large amounts of plastic that end up in the oceans.

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Photos from AMAZON

A trendy way to be sustainable is to use a stainless steel water bottle. This allows you to fill up before you head to class Almost every grocery store uses plastic bags. By using cloth and then refill around campus at the water filling stations. grocery bags, you can save extra plastic hanging around Plastic water bottles never get reused and create a huge your apartment that either gets thrown away or never re- waste of plastic, especially at Universities. used. These cloth bags are super cute!

HOW TO SUSTAIN A HEALTHY DIET according to a dietician.

A nutritionist at Temple discusses how women can maintain good eating habits and taking care of themselves while at college.

BY ISABELLA DIAMORE

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disturbance in self-perceived weight.

Unfortunately, eating disorders are very common among college women. Lorditch has her patients with disordered eating challenge negative thoughts surrounding food or work on eating all foods in moderation.

“The ultimate goal is for the student to develop a healthy relationship with food again,” Lorditch said.

Zalescik described her eating disorder as having control over how much food she allowed herself to eat, as well as eating below 500 calories a day.

“I met with a nutritionist every week while I was in recovery and she planned out a meal plan with adequate amount of calories,” she said, “ Now I loosely follow that but have gotten to a point in my relationship with food I can eat mostly of healthy foods and some junk foods without any self-inflicted punishments.”

Zalescik works hard to sustain a balanced diet and explained the most difficult part about overcoming her diet was being able to eat a snack or dessert without feeling guilty or feel terrible about herself. It’s a work in progress and everyone handles the situation differently.

She now has a routine on sustaining a good diet.

“I always make sure I eat when I’m hungry and don’t use food as a reward. I used to make myself exercise severely to ‘earn’ a piece of toast. And if I didn’t work out that morning, I wouldn’t allow myself a piece of toast,” she said, “Now regardless of my activity level of that day if I’m hungry I eat and make sure to nourish my body with foods that energize me and keep me going.“ Mental, not just physical, health is also super important for college-aged women.

“Make sure you are able to manage stress and anxiety,” Lorditch said. She suggests “getting adequate sleep can also play a part in improving physical and mental health.

Students should strive for at least seven hours of uninterrupted [sleep].”

That means no more 1 a.m. Youtube binges!

Maintaining a healthy diet in college is not easy, but knowing you’re not alone can bring you one step closer to figuring out what works for you.

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Photo by ALINA GEORGESCU

Sustaining a healthy diet is important for young had anorexia nervosa, an intense fear of gaining weight and

women. It can reduce the risk of illness and help maintain mental clarity. Long term, it can also reduce the risk of cardiovascular diseases, type II diabetes, and several cancers.

But being a college student is difficult as is, between homework, internships, and Thirsty Thursdays. Our eating tendencies often fall to the wayside.

Research has found from the department of psychology at York University, an English college, that women are more likely to experience brain activity relating to negative body perception than men.

Some of the researchers have speculated that women may have more negative feelings about their bodies due to perceived obesity and social pressures.

So the big question is, how can you sustain a diet that works for you?

Lori Lorditch, the campus dietitian at Temple University, explains why and how you should sustain a healthy diet. A lot of women don’t prioritize eating or an eating schedule–– many women struggle with stress and mindless eating––especially around exam time.

“I see a lot of time constraints, lack of knowledge on nutrition or cooking skills, and just not prioritizing eating regular meals and snacks throughout the day,” Lorditch said about major problems she sees with young women and their diets.

Lorditch suggests “getting up at a decent hour and starting the day with a well-balanced breakfast sets one up for better eating habits later in the day. Eating breakfast will prevent hunger later in the day and reduce binge eating.”

She also created an eating routine for women in college.

“For physical health, focus on eating regularly throughout the day, about every two to four hours. Try not to skip meals and have healthy food on hand when you get a craving,” she said, “Consider meal prepping, or cooking meals in large portions if you live off campus, that way you have leftovers to easily reheat later in the week. Also, try to exercise at least three days per week for 30 minutes each time.”

Still, many women struggle with eating disorders, and it can be hard to maintain a good diet.

Julianna Zalescik, a sophomore theater major, opened up about her eating disorder and her battle to overcome it. She

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MPUS

Photo by GRACE DiMEO

Carbon Commuting A Sustainable Q&A Inside Ola Beauty Charles Library's Impact ...and more!

MAIN CAMPUS

TEMPLE COMMUNITY GARDEN: FIGHTING NORTH PHILLY’S FOOD DESERT The Temple organization is committed to a sustainable future for the university and the surrounding community. BY SARAH WADDINGTON

Walking along North Carlisle Street, you can find the and the president of Temple Community Garden, described usual dog-walkers, lines of row homes, and trash cans out on the curb for pickup. Once you hit Diamond Street, a large green space opens up in front of you with rows of fresh vegetables — all grown right on the corner of a city block and an unexpected but pleasant surprise.

This is the work of the Temple Community Garden: an organization on campus with an impressive presence in sustaining healthy lifestyles.

Their mission is to provide the community with sustainably grown produce and other goods to lessen the presence of food insecurity within the urban environment, according to its website. This is a Goliath task — North Philadelphia is plagued by food deserts, where there is an inability to receive consistent access to healthy food.

Instead, residents see a lack of accessible grocery stores and an overpopulation of fast food chains.

This not only stops low-income communities from getting fresh produce, but it can also lead to higher instances of diet-related health problems.

Not only is it residents of North Philadelphia who suffer from a lack of access to fresh food, but also college students struggle to get by after covering the high costs of tuition.

Of the students enrolled in four-year schools, 30 percent faced food and housing insecurity, according to The Hope Center, a research institution that aims to shed light on the difficulties that students in higher education face.

Numerous organizations, such as The Food Trust, have found that by simply providing access to healthy food, people will incorporate healthy food into their diets and it will help to solve these high instances of diet-related health problems in low-income communities.

This is exactly the sentiment from which Temple Community Garden draws its mission.

Connor Caruso, a senior environmental studies major 70

the phases the garden goes through in helping to provide fresh produce during the garden’s open hours.

The year-long process begins with the planting of a variety of vegetables at the beginning of the spring, the growing that begins in the late spring and early summer, and the harvesting that happens in the fall.

The other aspect of the organization is the farm stand, held from 3-5 p.m. every Friday. At the farm stand, they give out produce harvested from the garden during the prior week.

Though they are not able to provide students and families with a full meal on the table, Caruso is pleased to simply add an additional healthy option to someone’s plate.

“We don’t really have Photo by SIDRA DROESE the ability to put full meals on the table for people,” Caruso said. “We are mostly interested in supplementing vegetables that people might not get access to otherwise. For example, people had said they were interested in trying kale and okra and we grew it based on those requests.”

Rachel Murphy, a senior community development major, feels that there is more that could be done by the garden in helping community members access healthy foods.

“I just don’t really feel like we have the capacity for that kind of impact right now as a small volunteer organization,” Murphy added.

Murphy held a facilitated improvement discussion last fall about some things that could be improved, but nothing much came out of it after she left to go abroad in the spring.

Some changes that have been proposed are changing the farm stand hours or implementing more of them, to see if more students and workers can get access.

Nevertheless, a group of students helping to alleviate some of the burdens that comes with being food insecure on campus and in a low-income community in the city is a feat.

And that seems like a pretty good place to start.

Commuting without Carbon

Photo by GRACE DiMEO

E

very morning I walk 10 minutes from my dorm to class, blissfully carbon-free. What if I lived 30 minutes away? An hour? Now, an eco-friendly stroll is much less appealing.

For students who commute, keeping their travel habits sustainable can be tricky, even when it’s a priority.

“I would never be able to bike here, it’s way too far,” said Bianka Hamati, a junior biology major, who takes SEPTA Regional Rail every morning.

“Imagine, it’s 40 minutes just to take the train.”

Transportation doesn’t need to be emissions-free for it to be sustainable.

“We certainly see usage of public transport as a win,” said Caroline Burkholder, sustainability manager at Temple’s Office of Sustainability.

Students commute using different primary modes of transportation. 39 percent of students commute using public transportation, either bus, subway, trolley, or Regional Rail; 35.7 percent bike or walk; and 23.5 percent drive in cars (not as the passengers), according to the Office of Sustainability’s 2019 Transportation Survey.

“I feel like it’s a lot to put on commuter students that we should be focusing on sustainability,” said Veronica

Is there a future of Temple students taking the green route to campus?

BY NATALIE KERR

Banks, a sophomore communication studies major. “We’re commuting to begin with, people should just do what works for them.”

Temple’s Office of Sustainability helps students identify alternative transit methods to individual cars, including information through Bike Temple, which gives urban riding and repair lessons each semester. They also connect students to the SEPTA Pass Program offered through the Bursar’s Office, which provides full-time students with SEPTA passes for the semester at a 10 percent discount.

Temple also offers transportation to and from off-campus residences.

Temple’s Shuttle Services offers transportation to Main Campus, the Health Sciences Center, the Temple Administrative Services Building, the Ambler Campus, and the Ambler train station.

The office is evaluating impediments to accessing sustainable transportation, such as affordability of public transit and housing availability within biking range, Burkholder said.

Temple Student Government is helping address this issue with a student-led initiative to get an increased discount on SEPTA passes, and expand the limited number available, ac-

cording to Kate Lyons, TSG director of grounds and sustainability.

“The way the [University Pass] is priced is really for people that are working full-time jobs and have the financial ability to do that, which most students don’t,” Lyons said.

The survey also asked the campus community about scenarios that would encourage them to commute by bike, a zero-carbon method. The top responses were implementing more dedicated bike lanes, improving road conditions, and creating more secure bike parking with swipe access on campus.

“I think promoting biking more would be helpful,” said Louisiane Perrin, a Ph.D. student. “I think people just don’t even think about it, and that’s why they don’t do it.”

The Office of Sustainability declared that one of their transportation goals from the 2019 Climate Action Plan is to “increase the number of commuters who utilize a sustainable form of transportation to the campus to 75 percent by 2025.”

“This is a big issue, it’s also a sustainable issue because we want to see less congestion on the roads,” Lyons said. “Really the future of Philly is having better access to [public] transit.”

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CHAIRLOOM: Q&A 72

One person’s trash is this business’ sustainable moneymaker. Molly Andrews Burke, founder of Chairloom, talks contributing to the circular economy by reupholstering old furniture. BY FRANKIE WILKIN & PHOTOS BY HALEY DOMZALSKI

Whether revamping your home or moving you feel the same way about furniture. You can across the country, a nice furniture set is the building block of your crib’s personality.

Molly Andrews Burke started Chairloom to create chic and modern additions to any household from emerging textile artists, giving her clients something that is one-of-a-kind. Burke’s recent rebranding took her business to the next level by emphasizing the beauty of transformation, sustainability, and reuse. Frankie Wilkin sat down with Burke to get the scoop on her tree-friendly, reupholstering business.

feel good about yourself when you reuse or buy vintage. It’s an emotional thing. We are emotional about the state of affairs of our environment. You can actually feel the emotion of happiness when you choose to reuse your furniture. People don’t realize that what you need already exists, times a thousand. You know, I didn’t start the business to be sustainable, but it is, obviously. I’m just doing what I love because I love old stuff. There is no such thing as ‘single-use.’

FW: You recently had a ‘rebranding.’ You have

a new website, a new layout, and a new way of inFW: How did you start up Chairloom?

MAB: I had a neighbor who had old furniture that troducing your business. had been reupholstered, and I thought it looked MAB: When I rebranded, I took the slogan ‘once

was lost, now is found,’ and we played on it a little bit. We put emphasis on the ‘now is found,’ which sparks the idea of reuse a little more clearly. Sustainable design is a movement that I want to be identified with. We’re trying to use the concepts that mean a lot to us, but use them in a way that makes people realize that this is about a circular economy. I’m trying to do four things, really: the concept of reupholstery and vintage furniture, a focus on the unexpectedness and beauty of transFW: What makes Chairloom different, as a formation, the importance of second chances and potential, and this whole idea of closing the loop company and as an ideology?

MAB: The funny thing is, the antique and vintage and sustainability. furniture business has been around as long as man.

I didn’t invent anything. I think what I did is put FW: What do you feel defines sustainability? a very current twist on a very old, traditional con- MAB: It’s like an old house. Do you buy an old cept. Reupholstery is nothing new, but reuphol- house and tear it down, or do you keep the instering old things in the textile of up-and-coming tegrity and structure, and just freshen it? We’re textile artists is something new. People come in keeping the structure, and the outline, and bones. here because they’re looking for that unexpected We’re just adding something new. fabric that they haven’t seen 200 times. Or they’re looking for an accent piece, a way to honor old FW: Do you have any tips for someone trying to furniture that was passed down to them. We love start their own sustainable business? introducing our clients to emerging and smaller MAB: You need a good person to give you advice textile artists. The individual textile artist and the about money. You can get over your head realindividual piece of furniture are what makes this ly fast, and you don’t want to get behind. Make it work for you. Retail is dying, and it’s motivated business tick. by the want to be pro-environment. A sustainable business goes deeper. It’s about feeling strongly FW: Why prioritize sustainability?

MAB: Whether you feel guilt or pride when you about seeing the potential of old items as somego to the grocery [store] with your reusable bags, thing new. great. She told me about a textile outlet in Delaware, and she introduced me to the thrift shops, specifically Bryn Mawr Thrift and Ardmart in Ardmore. I said, ‘we should really start a business,’ and we did. So, I had a friend who came to my house, and she was doing a jewelry show. I decided that was the best way to launch our business. So, I invited fifty people and got immediate feedback on the redone, vintage furniture.

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PICTURE THIS:

JUST DO IT Taylar Enlow and Maya Beauvoir created Divine Offerings, a wellness organization catered towards Black Womxn, in hopes of giving tips they’ve learned in their journeys to other Black womxn on and off campus.

BY HAFEEZAT BISHI PHOTOS BY DANI MEENAN 74

You walk into a dimly lit apartment greeted by the smell of burning sage and candles are lit. Sitting in a circle is an array of Black womxn from all walks of life, chatting and laughing, and being themselves while enjoying snacks and herbal teas.

This is where I found myself one Sunday at the first Divine Offerings meeting.

The brainchild of co-founders, Maya Beauvoir and Taylar Enlow (pictured in this spread), Do, pronounced “do,” is self-described, via their Instagram page, as “a space for Black womxn to heal and be heard” and “Because the beauty is in what we do.”

The description of their space utilizes an “x” in place of an “e,” in order to be inclusive of all Black womxn. The “x” has been used to dispel gender binaries and constructs, signifying the inclusion of all womxn: cis women, trans women, femme/ feminine-identifying genderqueer and non-binary folks.

DO was created as a wellness organization centered around he healing and self-care of Black womxn to fill the void of healing spaces for womxn that are not as inclusive in practice as they should be. Black womxn deal with issues unique to them and DO was designed to address the lack of those spaces.

Enlow, a junior global studies major, has centered her studies and her activism around the experience of Black womxn by declaring a cultures track with a regional concentration on Africa and the African diaspora. She is also the founder of SONKU Writers, an organization for artists of color at Temple. Enlow’s work has always been centered around the betterment of the Black community and DO is no exception.

“I think for me, one thing that I’ve learned since coming to Temple, is that no one understands Black womxn as well as other Black womxn,” Enlow said.

She came to Temple, realized that there wasn’t a healing space for Black womxn, and sought out to create one of her own. With her friend Maya Beauvoir, what started as an idea over two years ago has blossomed into Divine Offerings.

“I know that I have actually wanted to manifest this project since I was a freshman,” said Enlow. “I did a lot of

traveling this summer. I went to Brooklyn and shared space with a lot of Black womxn who were spiritual entrepreneurs, spiritualists, etc. and once I got back from that, DO just immediately manifested.”

Co-founder Beauvoir, a senior Africology and English major, has a background in wellness as well. A certified yogi, Maya works with others wanting to learn wellness practices for themselves. Along the way, she has progressed through her own journey of personal wellness.

“It’s really weird to be in this position of teacher and student because you’re obviously still learning as you gain experience, but then you have a responsibility for other people’s wellness,” Beauvoir said. “I think my journey is still continuing as a student, and I’m still learning more about this practice that I think guides me through everything. But I’m also sharing it with others every week, and I’m really glad that I don’t have to do it by myself.”

Those in attendance for the first sister circle learn about the roots of the organization and plans for upcoming meetings, followed by a chance to set some affirmations and goals for the near future.

Sister circles for Black women go back 150 years and were created to bring a sense of collectivism through themes like spirituality, healthy eating, and more.

Ashia Burns, a junior psychology major, went to the first meeting so she could be in a space that is not only centered around wellness but wellness that is specifically for Black womxn. Other participants hope to gain a community from this as the organization develops.

Randi Jones, a junior African American studies and anthrpology major, highlighted that aside from a lack of spaces, Black womxn are burdened with having to continuously and consciously navigate the oppressions they face to the point that there is no time to focus on mental health and wellness.

“I think it’s important for spaces like Divine Offerings to exist because when you’re with people that have gone through the same type of oppression that you do, then you don’t even have to think about that,” Jones said.

As Black womxn, it can be difficult to prioritize wellness because they often deal with outside factors that work against them. Issues such as racism, misogyny, and the cross-section of the two, misogynoir, have detrimental effects on the mental health of Black womxn. The American Psychological Association has found a link between racism and negative psychological effects such as chronic stress.

So what can we expect from DO? The founders have amazing topics lined up for upcoming meetings that include talks on astrology, spiritual capitalism, herbalism, and nights to just share space and relax with other Black womxn. They also have a podcast called the Project Divine Podcast, which you can find on SoundCloud. You can follow them on their Instagram or check out their website at divineofferings.org “I want this to be a space where Black womxn can come and be their full authentic selves and have other people recognize them and the humanity in that, and the divinity in that,” said Enlow, ending with a final hope for DO.

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HOP ON THE SUSTAINABILITY BANDWAGON Photo by sidra droese

Sustainability is trendy now, so here are tips to help the planet & help your wallet.

BY EMMA KULICZKOWSKI

The current obsession of metal straws, reusable water bottles, and the imminent doom of a climate change catastrophe on the horizon, becoming eco-friendly and more sustainable is quickly catching the eye of shoppers.

Sustainability is often clouded with consumerism, like fast fashion, purchasing expensive sustainable clothing (sorry Reformation) or buying reusable water bottles, like the Hydro Flasks beloved by VSCO girls everywhere.

But what about making sustainable choices that’ll make the earth and your wallet greener?

Start simple, like requesting the least packaging possible when ordering on Amazon, or asking for no plastic bags when shopping at the grocery store.

It’s easier than you think to make the switch to a more sustainable lifestyle while also saving money. Take it from Jacquelyn Oberdorf, a senior political science major.

Oberdorf recently started transitioning to sustainable habits when she moved from the suburbs to North 76

Philly. To reduce waste while also being easy on the wallet, she now makes her own deodorant by using lavender essential oils, arrowroot starch, and coconut oil. She also shops secondhand and uses a menstrual cup, which saves money and a TON of waste.

If you know you might get takeout or grab some coffee from Saxbys, plan ahead and bring what you already have from home, like a thermos and some reusable silverware.

“You do not need to buy that $15 portable bamboo utensil set to live a zero-waste lifestyle, or spend $40 on a stainless steel container,” Oberdorf said. “Grab a set of utensils from your kitchen to keep in your bag or reuse your Tupperware.”

Carolyn Frank, a sophomore undeclared BFA major, advises taking small steps into achieving a wallet-friendly and eco-friendly lifestyle. It’s really not that simple to just stop using plastic all at once. By adjusting a little bit at a time, it will be easier and more manageable to create and sustain habits.

“Start by taking SEPTA if you normally take Uber or carrying tote bags when you go shopping,” Frank said.

“Every little thing counts, so don’t be hard on yourself if you make a mistake.”

The Office of Sustainability at Temple is also a huge advocate for saving money. Caroline Burkholder, the sustainability manager, says the easiest, most important, and completely free sustainable thing you can do is vote.

Involving yourself in local politics, voting in elections and calling or writing your congressperson is the best way to use your voice to promote sustainability without touching your wallet.

Making the switch to become more sustainable may seem daunting, especially when it’s so easy to just get the plastic straw with your iced latte or buy those cheap jeans from Forever 21.

But knowing that you are helping the planet and your wallet while making these choices will be all the more rewarding.

Devastated by the trash-filled beaches of Hawaii, Aleksandra Ambrozy is holding the beauty industry accountable.

BY GABRIELLE HOUCK

G

rowing up in communist Poland in the 1980s, Aleksandra Ambrozy used makeup as an escape from the gray and mundane. Now, Ambrozy is using makeup to help fight in the ever waging war against plastic pollution.

Ambrozy is a Philadelphia-based makeup artist, and she has spent years making other women feel beautiful, whether they’re walking on the runway or walking down the aisle. In 2017, Ambrozy was named Philadelphia’s Best Makeup Artist by Philadelphia Magazine and has done makeup for a number of high profile clients like Taylor Swift and Echosmith.

Located on Pine Street, on a charming block filled with art galleries and antique stores, her elegantly modern and mindful makeup & skincare shop is a small, but intimate space that eloquently displays carefully curated makeup, skincare, and bath products.

Ola Beauty is not only a store, but a studio where you can get your makeup done and be educated about the sustainable products Ambrozy and her team of artists use while getting an eco-friendly glam.

Ambrozy opened Ola Beauty in July of 2019 after taking a startling trip to Hawaii in 2018. As a lover of nature, she was devastated to see the beach she once loved riddled with heaps of plastic and trash.

“I noticed the plastic pollution in the water and on the beaches and it really shocked me,” Ambrozy said. “I feel like here, we’re kind of disconnected

from that and we don’t see it. We don’t realize how much damage has already been done to the environment.”

It was after her trip that Ambrozy decided she was going to utilize her passion for makeup to take a step toward making a difference for both the environment and the beauty industry.

“It just made sense,” Ambrozy said.

“I love nature, and I love makeup and skincare, so I wanted to be able to combine them to create something impactful. Something that has more meaning than just making people pretty.”

The yearlong planning process began with researching and handpicking products that are made of natural, non-chemical ingredients, and contain low or no plastic from brands like Elate Cosmetics, Zao Organic Makeup, Luxe Botanics, and Maya Chia.

Ola offers a variety of makeup and skincare products from different brands, like foundation, blush, moisturizers, and facial cleansers, that are all in either glass, bamboo, or cardboard packaging. However, there are still some plastic elements that Ambrozy, unfortunately, couldn’t avoid.

“It’s hard to make things completely without plastic,” Ambrozy said. “My initial goal was to find products that were completely plastic-free, but I couldn’t find many.”

Although the brands Ambrozy is endorsing are making sustainability a priority, she doesn’t think other major makeup brands are realizing their harsh impact on the environment. And while other industries have made efforts toward eliminating plastic, Ambrozy believes the beauty industry is still far behind.

“I think someday it will happen, but at this point, I don’t think the environ-

mental impact they make is a concern for those companies,” Ambrozy said.

“Even the green beauty companies that say they’re natural and non-toxic are still packaging in plastic.”

When it comes to the stigma that often surrounds the hefty price tag attached to sustainable products, Ambrozy wishes more people would do their homework.

“There are brands that are green, and that are really affordable,” she said. “People just have to make a little extra effort to find them.”

Luckily, with Ola being just a subway ride away from Temple’s campus, makeup lovers can seek out Ola instead of draining their bank accounts at Sephora or Ulta.

“If I’m going to do something, I want to make a difference, and have it be more impactful than just beauty,” she added.

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Photo by dani meenan

hello, ola.

THE CHARLES LIBRARY:

One Weapon in Temple’s Climate Crisis Fight While waterworks are no stranger to campus libraries (we’ve all been there), Charles is taking things a step further with its new sustainable, storm runoff plan. BY KORI LAZAR Four years, two opening delays, and $175 million later, the fence finally came down this semester to reveal the new epicenter of campus: Charles Library. This new staple to Temple’s campus provides 24/7 study space, the highly anticipated BookBot, a cafe, and unique, modern architecture Owls can be proud of for years to come.

One promise of the library is its commitment to go green with the addition of a rooftop garden with a stormwater management system underneath, and plenty of windows and glass to let in natural light.

After speaking to two seniors, Mazeda Akhtar and Nabeel Zubair, it’s clear that the sustainable features of the library are unknown to its users.

“In my opinion, I think it has green features,” Akhtar said hesitantly when asked if the new library was sustainable or green-focused.

Both students admitted that knowing Temple is focused on sustainability is important to them. However, when 78

asked to describe these features, Akhtar came up short to no fault of her own.

Whenever Charles Library is discussed or advertised, the concept of “green space” is mentioned, but what does that even mean? What does stormwater management actually do? What are the benefits of the green roof other than just aesthetics? What energy-conserving practices are being put to use?

Temple University’s 2019 Climate Action Plan, published by the Office of Sustainability, mentions the idea of fostering a sustainable culture on campus. The plan reads, “For more than a decade, Temple has fostered community around climate action, bringing together students, staff, faculty, and neighbors to imagine and build a more sustainable campus and city.” How did the planning of the new library coincide with this mission?

Kate Wingert-Playdon, associate dean and director of architecture and environmental design, says the early plan-

ning process of the library and how a culture of sustainability is what makes Charles Library a true work of art.

“Design is always important, but design that’s focused on people, place, and environment was a priority,” Wingert-Playdon said.

By being in the middle of campus, and in the middle of an urban setting, the library needed to be a place where people wanted to spend time. The building has to serve North Philadelphia and the greater city, as well as the Temple community. A major city-wide environmental threat is Philadelphia’s water drainage system.

Wingert-Playdon explained how Philadelphia has a combined sewage and stormwater drain system, meaning when there is heavy rain or storms, the abundance of water flowing is detrimental to how this water flows into the river, and how much sewage water runs into the river. Gross.

The City of Philadelphia charges properties for excess runoff, meaning Temple University has a commitment to the city to lower and manage their water runoff. This created the need for a key feature of Charles: a stormwater runoff management system.

There are multiple water tanks under the new library to stop the rushing of water into the sewage system. The green roof is also a major factor in this process, Wingert-Playdon said. The soil helps the water retain slowly into the system, as well as improve air quality around the building.

There are also native plants on the roof, which attract bees, butterflies and other insects. Landscaping around the building and campus is an important factor in slowing down the water flow, including planting trees, permeable pavement, and multiple drainage points.

Sustainability, in general, is more than just Hydro Flasks

and canvas bags–it’s a way of being. It’s a commitment to thinking in the long run and how buildings, communities, and individuals can adapt along the way.

“One of the interesting problems of building a library right now is that the way we use libraries is changing, so inherent in the design is thinking that change is going to happen,” Wingert-Playdon said.

Wingert-Playdon also nodded to the BookBot as a means of sustainability. The main purpose of the BookBot was to have all of the books on-site in one place, and that reduces the need for truck delivery and other shipping methods, which is another focus on sustainability in a broader context.

How does all of this translate into the university’s commitment to “foster a community around climate action?”

One way is to ensure new building projects are in line with LEED certifications.

According to Temple’s Office of Sustainability’s website, there are six LEED-certified buildings on campus, while the certification status of the library is pending. As a student, knowing your university has certifications is nice, but this certification is not widely known or used.

LEED stands for Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design and is accredited by the U.S. Green Building Council, a non-profit organization aimed at building for the sustainable, environmentally-conscious future.

Sustainability and the climate crisis are major topics in today’s world, especially with activists like Greta Thunberg and Xiuhtezcatl Martinez leading the charge in the media and bringing this issue to the top of the world’s agenda.

Students are the greatest weapon in this fight, according to Thunberg. But how can Temple students be a part of this, if not educated on their own university’s role?

Students have a right and a desire to understand how Temple University is combatting the climate crisis and promoting a sustainable culture. To truly foster a culture of sustainability, the information should be on the forefront, inspiring awareness of the university’s impact on the climate crisis.

Photos by GRACE DiMEO

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Photo by JULIE WHITE

STUDY BREAK

GREEN GODDESS

Three recipes to help you take care of your skin naturally and sustainably.

BY CATHERINE O’CONNELL

As college students, we often don’t have the budget to buy in bulk.

Some of us make every part of our beauty routines ourselves, while also producing minimal waste––and that’s not fair. Sustainability should fall on businesses, not consumers.

If you want to make your skincare greener, but don’t want to spend hours of your life finding recipes and shopping for obscure ingredients, here are three inexpensive recipes that will make your skincare routine a little kinder to the environment and your skin.

Before making these recipes, we suggest stopping by a local thrift store to find small jars to store products in. You could also rinse out and reuse old skincare containers.

Facial Exfoliant

Photo by JULIE WHITE

FACE WASH

moisturizer spray

Ingredients: 1 tbs olive oil 1 tbs brown sugar 1 teaspoon of green tea

Ingredients: 4 tbs liquid castile soap 2 tbs water 1 tbs olive oil 1 tbs honey

Ingredients: ½ cup rosewater 2 tbs olive oil Spray bottle

Mix oil and sugar, then add the tea. Add more oil or sugar for your desired texture. If the smell bothers you, a few drops of a skin-friendly essential oil (ex: lavender, rosehip) will mask it. This yields a single-use.

Mix ingredients together.

Use an old soap dispenser.

If you use essential oils, sixto-12 drops of your favorite skin-friendly oil would make your face wash smell extra nice!

Shake well before each use.

This recipe is perfect for all skin types. Simply mix ingredients together and put it in the spray bottle. As always, essential oils can be a nice bonus, but absolutely not necessary. Yields 5 fluid ounces.

Time: 10 minutes Price: $0.20 per use

Time: 5 minutes Price: $1.10/per fl. oz

Time: 3 minutes Price: $4.20/per 5 fl. oz

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Photo by FRANCESCA FUREY

KNOW YOUR FLO. Periods are pesky, for you and for the earth. Check out these period-friendly products for an eco-friendly lifestyle. BY SOHA GILL

O

n average, a woman throws away around 250 to 300 pounds of period products in her lifetime.

They eventually end up in landfills since ordinary tampons and pads aren’t recyclable. These options can help you feel more comfortable during an uncomfortable time of the month.

Alternative options to regular tampons and pads are becoming more popular and accessible as the world becomes more eco-friendly. Reusable menstrual products have sparked an interest among those who are keen on being more environmentally conscious, and here’s why. At least knowing one could be helping the planet while aggressively craving everything from pasta to brownies can be reassuring. Regardless of what you choose, having options for how you can treat your body is what matters in the end. Period.

Cloth Pads: If you’re more comfortable wearing pads during your period, Lunapads provides some environmentally friendly options versus disposable brands. These pads are safe for your body while containing no harmful fragrances or chemicals.

Lunapads claims they’re “highly absorbent, breathable, and leakproof,” so your days of turning around to a friend and asking “Am I good?” are long over. After a day of wearing it, rinse with cold water. Buying bulk not only saves you some extra cash but can mean having to do less laundry during your cycle. Helping the environment is that easy.

Period Underwear: Isabel Oberlender, a BFA major in the Tyler School of Art, has been using these for six months now and recommends them to everyone who gets a period.

Menstrual Cups: “You don’t really have to think about them,” Oberlender Once placed inside, this product can collect and hold said. “I can see myself using them for as long as possible.” blood for up to 12 hours. The small cup is usually made of Thinx, a reusable underwear brand, provides “styles that silicone or rubber, making it painless when properly insert- are up to 4 tampons worth.” Whether using them as a backed. A good reusable cup can last anywhere from one to two up for your lighter flow days or replacing disposable prodyears–saving you loads of money and last-minute trips to the ucts overall, period-safe panties are the way to go if you’re nearest CVS. looking for comfort and ease.

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STUDY BREAK: INT’L CORNER

THE ART OF LET TING GO

(int’l edition)

Life isn’t a movie, but once you let go of your expectations, the unexpected is even better.

REFINE’s Fall 2019 International Corner BY REBEKAH HARDING It took me approximately 0.005 seconds in Dulles fect expectations of me enjoying every second of it. But what

Airport before I lost my shit. It was four in the morning and I thought it would be cute to stay up all night until I was on the plane to South Korea to avoid jet lag. Didn’t happen.

That unfortunate and self-inflicted set of circumstances aside, nothing could have prepared me for traveling internationally for the first time, by myself.

There’s a lot of pressure on a “once in a lifetime opportunity.” On one hand, you’re receiving a chance to try something new and wonderful, but as the statement implies it can never happen again.

I wasn’t worried about the language barrier. During high school, I enrolled for two consecutive summers in a full Korean immersion program in Minnesota where I spent a month only speaking Korean. For a while, I was planning on direct enrolling in a Korean university for all of undergrad. When I learned that I had received the opportunity to study during the summer semester at Yonsei University in South Korea, it felt inevitable.

I was nervous that it wouldn’t be everything I hoped for and was terrified of disappointment. Everyone around me was telling me that this was a once in a lifetime opportunity, that these were going to be the best days of my life, and that I was going to be a completely different person when I came back. I wanted to believe it, but I became frustrated with my doubt.

Stepping off the plane wasn’t the magical, mind-blowing experience I had been playing over and over in my head.

After a 13 hour journey, my pants smelled like ramen from a flight attendant’s unfortunate spill and I hadn’t gotten a wink of sleep.

I hate to admit it, but this set the tone for my whole first week in Korea. Orientation had me up at times that my jetlagged brain couldn’t handle, and with a temporary, but very loudly snoring roommate, it felt like I hadn’t slept in years.

Study abroad put me in a really weird headspace. I was existing somewhere between anxiety and living my most free and interesting life. I was still hanging onto the picture-per-

some people (me) don’t remember is studying abroad is still school, not a Hallmark movie. And sometimes school sucks.

A lot.

I completely turned my trip around with an impulse trip during a typhoon to a little island, Jeju, off the southern coast. Summer in South Korea is the rainy season, but I was fiending for a vacation and there was very little that would stop me from going on a much-needed adventure.

The group I had been hanging with wasn’t with me for the spontaneity of the trip. But I managed to convince two other girls from my program to tag along. Reaching out to the “cool girls” was way out of my comfort zone, but they agreed and I was thrilled to make some new friends.

The weather forecast was nonstop typhoon level rain for the whole weekend, but I packed my rain boots and headed for the airport.

Our flight was canceled, rescheduled, and delayed all in the course of an hour. Here I was thinking that I wasn’t even going to make it to Jeju, but I was calm.

Letting outside circumstances take control of my life was kind of relaxing.

Even though I spent 99 percent of that weekend completely soaked, I had one of the most fun experiences of my life. We walked around in the pouring rain at Jeju’s famous Loveland Museum, a park full of sex sculptures that were even more hilarious in the rain. A tea museum on the side of the volcano provided delicious entertainment and hours of conversation that allowed me to make unexpected and precious friends.

I still kick myself for letting my expectations get the best of me for the first half of my time in South Korea, but I realized that I had to experience a low point for the highs of my study abroad experience to mean anything.

Study abroad may have been a once in a lifetime opportunity, but going abroad doesn’t have to be a once in a lifetime experience. What’s to say that I won’t go back? The best is yet to come.

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A WAST E - F R E E W E E K .

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College students and sustainability doesn’t always mix. By going waste free for a week, this REFINE writer proves the single-use lifestyle is stronger than we realize.

BY JESSIE DRAKE

A

s college students, we’re always busy. We ally healthier than getting the usual Chick-fil-A or hardly have enough time to go to class, study, BurgerFi lunch in the SAC. So, on top of helping and still have time for a social life. With all the environment, trying to reduce my waste led me the chaos, saving the environment isn’t usually our to choose more nutritious options, like a salad intop priority. stead of a burger and fries.

The average college student produces about Between meals or whenever I was headed to 640 pounds of waste every year, according to the class, I always carried a reusable water bottle with Accredited Online Schools’ website. Seeing such me, though I couldn’t give up my daily iced coffee. an outrageous statistic made me curious about how Metal straws have become a more common staple in I can reduce the amount of waste I produce. So, I sustainability efforts, so I decided to try them out challenged myself to go completely waste-free for as a replacement for the disposable plastic ones. one week.

They were relatively inBy the end of the first expensive and only took day, I was already more a few minutes to wash. conscious of what I was From then on, I made throwing away. I found sure I always had one with myself checking the me whenever I went on a bottom of paper and Dunkin’ run. plastic bags and packThe more aware I was ages to see if I could of my own habits, the find a little recycling more I noticed others symbol. Surprisingly, who were also putting in I found that symbol a extra effort to help out the lot more once I started environment. A few small looking for it. businesses like the Bagel Packaged foods are Hut and Richie’s use pagenerally the most comper bags made from remon culprit of waste cycled materials as a way production. They’re to reduce the demand for one of the things I nonew materials. I also saw ticed that actually have plenty of people with rea “do not recycle” symusable bags, bottles, and bol printed on them. straws––all in an attempt So, I stopped buying to reduce their carbon snacks with plastic footprint. wrappers and picked Though not imposup fresh fruits and vegsible, being waste-free Illustration by FRANCESCA FUREY etables from The Fresh takes some research and Grocer. Every morning preparation. I wasn’t for breakfast, instead of a protein bar, I grabbed a 100% waste-free, but I still learned a lot more from banana before heading to class. this challenge than I thought I would.

Most days for lunch, I head to the Esposito Practicing a sustainable lifestyle requires more Dining Hall. It’s right under my dorm, so it’s con- commitment than anything, but if one person can venient and I can use my meal swipe, which makes reduce 640 pounds of waste, I say it’s worth making it cost-effective as well. The meals are also gener- this one-week challenge into an everyday routine.

Secondhand Glam: A Thrift Guide to philly

Looking for the best stores to stock up on statement vintage pieces? These Philly thrifts are contributing to the sustainable fashion movement, one clothing piece at a time.

BY FRANKIE WILKIN

Photo by JOCELYN BRECHBILL

If you aren’t ready to hop on the vegan trend, thrifting is the best way to contribute to sustainability, while still keeping to your budget. Whether you’re searching for a one of a kind item like a 1970s leather snakeskin pattern jacket or staple pieces like ‘90s style striped and ribbed sweaters, thrifting is the best way to reduce your ecological footprint.

2. Philly Aids Thrift The best place to dig and find amazing and unconventional pieces, Philly Aids is a treasure trove if you’re willing to spend your day there. From the racks of clothes sorted by tops, bottoms, and dresses to the $1 room and bins, you can find anything if you look hard enough. Best for those open-minded to the strange and unusual.

What you’ll find: a ‘90s dress with 1. The Raxx Vintage Emporium a Peter Pan collar, Levi’s jeans, your Raxx is a more upscale vintage con- grandma’s muumuu dress, or oversignment store, known for its cloth- sized sweaters. Price: $1+ ing from all eras. Raxx upcycles some of their clothing, meaning that some 3. Bulk Vintage Clothing pieces have been cropped, dyed, or For all your wholesale needs or if altered, which puts a modern twist on you’re looking for a particular item, old items. Best for deadstock fashion Bulk Vintage is the mother store to lovers looking for new and upcycled Raxx, and has everything from streetstaple pieces. wear style camouflage pants to ‘90s What you’ll find: a Harley Davidson vintage tees. Open to the public the tee, 1970s flare jeans, or a 1990s Nike first weekend of every month and “Just Do It!” sweatshirt. Price: $30+ sorted by era and style, Bulk allows

an online purchasing option for those wanting to grab bundles of grandpa sweaters for cheap. Best for those who know exactly what they’re looking for.

What you’ll find: 1980s sweaters and cardigans, vintage denim-like Wrangler, or lots of deadstock dresses and t-shirts. Price: $10+ 4. Retrospect Vintage Hidden away on South Street, Retrospect is a masterpiece for collecting some of the best vintage pieces into one space. Containing mostly fancier clothes with a strong ‘70s vibe, Retrospect has everything from beautiful vintage dresses to upscale denim jackets and blouses. Retrospect also has an Etsy store with gorgeous vintage furniture. Best for those looking for nicer vintage pieces at a higher price point.

What you’ll find: retro denim-like acid wash jackets and jeans, everything striped, or vintage boots. Price: $30+ 87

DITCH THESE B You’d be surprised how many of your favorite brands still test on animals. Don’t worry though, we’ve provided some cruelty-free alternatives for you.

BY MILLY McKINNISH emember in “Legally Blonde 2: Red, White & Blonde” when Elle Woods protested makeup companies using animal testing? You’d think that iconic movie would’ve stopped companies from testing on animals. Shockingly though, that isn’t the case. Approximately 115 million animals are tested on each year.

Everyone knows how cruel and inhumane animal testing can be–there’s no need to elaborate on the torture that mice, rabbits, dogs, and other animals endure.

It’s outrageous how many major companies still use animal testing. (Examples range from Church & Dwight, which owns Arm & Hammer and Nair, to Unilever, which owns Dove and Vaseline). Hell, even the Environmental Protection Agency tests on animals (the EPA promises to stop testing on mammals by 2035, though).

So yeah, we all know animal testing needs to end, but what can we do in the meantime? There are so many cruelty-free alternatives to the products you love! So throw away your Victoria’s Secret PINK perfume, and hunt down some products branded with that little cruelty-free bunny-heart logo!

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MAYBELLINE VS. e.l.f.

BRANDS IN RED AREN’T VEGAN

CLEAN & CLEAR VS. DR. BRONNER’S

Clean & Clear Foaming Facial Cleanser $4.49 (Target) Clean & Clear is in the same boat as Maybelline.

While Clean & Clear’s parent company, Johnson & Johnson, doesn’t test on animals in the United States, they do in China.

Dr. Bronner’s Hemp Pure Castile Soap $15.99 (Target) All Dr. Bronner’s products are cruelty-free. In March, they celebrated their 20th anniversary being cruelty-free.

Maybelline Snapscara Washable Mascara: $5.89 (Target) L’Oreal, who owns Maybelline, claims they don’t test on animals, but that statement is not 100% true. Technically, L’Oreal only tests on animals when required by law. In China, foreign cosmetic products must be tested on animals before being sold domestically. Maybelline products are sold in China, therefore the brand uses animal testing. e.l.f. Volumizing Mascara Black: $3.00 (Target) e.l.f. products are mostly known for being reasonably priced, but they’re cruelty-free, too.

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BRANDS. ASAP. NEUTROGENA VS. SUN BUM Neutrogena Clear Face Sunscreen Lotion $9.29 (Target) Neutrogena is another member of the Johnson & Johnson family, meaning they also test on animals in China, just like Clean & Clear.

Sun Bum Sunscreen Face Lotion $12.79 (Target) Not only is Sun Bum cruelty-free, all of their products are vegan as well. Also, their sunscreen is dermatologist tested and weightless, so it can be worn under makeup.

DEGREE VS. TOM’S Degree Ultra Clear Antiperspirant Deodorant $4.29 (Target) Degree tests their deodorants by applying chemicals onto animals like rabbits’ skin and into their eyes. Next time you’re picking up deodorant at the store, opt out of buying Degree.

Tom’s Long Lasting Natural Deodorant Stick $4.29 (Target) Tom’s of Maine is dedicated to manufacturing cruelty-free and vegan products. Plus, their deodorants are available in almost 20 scents.

JOHN FRIEDA VS. AMIKA

John Frieda Violet Crush Purple Shampoo $9.99 (Target) You guessed it: John Frieda’s parent company, Kao, does not test animals domestically, but does test on them in China.

Amika Bust Your Brass Cool Blonde Shampoo $20 (Sephora) Amika is a Brooklyn-based hair care company dedicated to supplying you with all the cruelty-free hair products and tools you need.

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Photo by @SECONDHANDSTEALSX / FRANKIE WILKIN

THE AGE OF

2019 had some lows. OK, a lot of lows. But: one of the best outcomes was the skyrocketing of upcycling clothes. Fast-fashion is on the out, and here’s how.

BY JOELLE PACHECO

t

“Fast fashion needs to be stopped,” said Olivia Neiderer, a freshman theater major. “We need to really spread the news and let people know how bad buying from huge chains is. The amount of water used to make one piece of clothing is ridiculous and I don’t think most people know that.”

“Not just water, but air quality and deforestation due to fast fashion is extremely detrimental to the security of our future,” Johnson said.

Upcycling is a better alternative to remain eco-friendly, but it can begin a journey to create a unique closet filled with clothes that most people may not be able to find.

“My favorite piece I’ve found was a bright blue windbreaker that has shoulder pads,” Neiderer said. “If I find large shirts, I might crop them, but normally I leave my clothes as is.”

“The best piece I ever upcycled was a vintage pair of ‘90s levis and an old ‘80s sweater in the same day. That was a good day,” Johnson said.

Upcycling is a great way to keep your closet green, find interesting pieces, and make items your own avoiding the harms of fast fashion.

“I understand the appeal of fast fashion, but I believe people continue to purchase these items because they don’t understand how or where the clothes are made,” Johnson said. “I think more people need to be educated about the process of fast fashion.”

UPCYCLE hrifting and buying used clothing has taken the world by storm with Generation Z realizing the harms of fast fashion and striving to be more eco-friendly.

Upcycling is an environmental movement of using recycled items and creating them into something different.

Recently this year, upcycling has popularly moved into the fashion realm by using vintage pieces and styling them into a new piece. It’s basically thrifting with a twist.

People often thrift or buy clothing off of mobile marketplaces–like Depop, Poshmark, and ThredUp–to create their own wardrobe.

Sellers can upload images and prices of clothing they intend to sell on the apps. Most users sell vintage and used clothing, but some also use it to sell their own products.

D e p o p is a social media marketplace where you, your friends, and people you get fashion inspo from can view what you’re loving at the moment with all things fashion. It was originally founded in Milan in 2011 but has since expanded to London and New York City. On the app, each user has a profile where they can showcase what they’re selling with pictures, a price, and a description of the items. Once you start to follow people, their latest items will pop up in your home feed so you’re always connected to the styles you vibe with.

Based in Redwood City, California, P o s h m a r k is a social commerce marketplace founded in 2011 that makes buying and selling new or used items simple. Upon making an account, Poshmark has you select brands you like to truly personalize your shopping experience. From there, you can browse the different categories according to what item you’re looking for, brand, price, color, etc.

“After learning about the environmental impacts and human endangerment fast fashion has created, I started researching different options,” said Lilith Johnson, a freshman art history major. “Upcycling and sustainable fashion draws me in ethically, but also stylistically because the clothes are– most of the time–still in really good shape.”

This way, consumers know their clothes aren’t being mass-produced in a factory, but being recycled on apps and in thrift stores.

“Upcycling to me is important because I want to know what I am supporting or endorsing through my purchases,” Johnson said. “Buying upcycled clothes isn’t rewarding the exploitation of human labor, which is what fast fashion often does.”

A singular t-shirt can take thousands of liters of water to produce. Not only are there problems with water pollution, but fast fashion creates a greater negative environmental impact as well.

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