Big City Camp Cooking | Chef Lou Lambert by Refueled

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CAMP COOKING

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BIG CITY CAMP COOKING A CULINARY ADVENTURE THE HIGH DESERT TOWN OF MARFA, TEXAS, WITH ITS SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS AND ROLLING TERRAIN FILLED WITH CACTUS, TUMBLEWEEDS AND OCCASIONAL WILD AOUDAD SIGHTINGS SERVES AS THE BACKDROP FOR A WEEKEND EXPLORATION OF THE TASTE PALATE OF WEST, TEXAS. BIG CITY CAMP COOKING IS HELD ON THE GROUNDS OF EL COSMICO - A 21-ACRE COMMUNAL CAMPING RETREAT FEATURING STYLIZED WALL TENTS, TEPEES AND VINTAGE TRAILERS OPERATED BY AUSTIN HOTELIER LIZ LAMBERT. THE EVENT IS LED BY HER BROTHER RENOWNED CHEF LOU LAMBERT.

WORDS BY MICHELLE BROWN PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAV SCHMIEGE

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COOK, EAT AND EXPLORE THE IDYLLIC HIGH PLAINS DESERT TOWN OF MARFA, TEXAS AND SEE HOW THE LANDSCAPE AND CULTURE OF THIS UNIQUE PLACE INFLUENCE ITS RICH CULINARY HERITAGE.

Lambert does make a great pot of beans. Lambert instead takes the ingredients indigineous to the area and takes them to a new level, creating a feast that would be welcome at any gourmet table nationwide.

Lou Lambert The Lambert name is a staple in West Texas cuisine. Does Lambert’s Downtown Barbecue in Austin ring any bells? Lambert grew up in the region, spending summers on his family’s cattle ranch. While other kids were riding horses or out in the swimming holes, Lambert was hanging out with the ranch cook learning the tricks of the trade. The love of cooking stayed with Lambert as he grew up. He went on to attend the renowned Culinary Institute of America in New York. Classically trained in French cuisine, Lambert went to work beside illustrious chefs such as Wolfgang Puck. However, Lambert never lost his passion for the food he grew up with. “Once I trained at culinary school, I found a way to take the food of my heritage to a higher level, marrying generations of Texas/Southern ranching culture with classic culinary training to produce a style of cooking all its own,” says Lambert.

Marfa Bound As you make the trek on I-20 west and pass through the windmill energy fields near Sweetwater, the oil well pumps of Odessa and the Monahans Sandhills Sate Park, you begin to feel you’re driving into a different world. But once you’re heading on 67 south and through the mountains surrounding Alpine it really hits you. And when you pass the Marfa lights viewing center, you are gone. Marfa - located between the Davis Mountains and Big Bend National Park - is a world unto itself. It’s an oasis in the desert for artisans and craftsmen. A place where the quirky is the norm. A place that is so laid back that everything is put off for “manana”. This I kid you not. Although there are several restaurants and bars in town, finding an open place to grab a beer and a snack at 4:00 pm on a Friday was a challenge.

I was fortunate enough to attend the recent Big City Camp Cooking workshop. Over the course of three days, Lambert and his team demonstrated Texas cuisine at its finest. This is not your typical cowboys beans and brisket. Although

(PAGE 72 - LEFT TO RIGHT) JOE REALE, DAN DYER, JAMES SMITH, CHRIS REALE & CHEF LOU LAMBERT.

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Welcome to Camp First on our weekend foray into the tastes and sounds of Texas was a welcome reception at El Cosmico. Lambert decked out in a cowboy hat and chef’s apron introduced us to his culinary team--James Smith, Chris Reale, Joe Reale and musician Dan Dyer. “I am thrilled to work with these guys. They are my best friends,” Lambert remarked about his team. While we met other camp participants, we were treated to classic southwestern fare--chips, salsa, guacamole, grilled three cheese quesadillas, adobo pork street tacos and cookie with fresh stawberries. And let’s not forget the margaritas touted as the “best you’ll ever have.”

“THE PURPOSE IS NOT A RECIPE,” SAYS LAMBERT. “THE PURPOSE IS THE METHOD AND HOW YOU DO IT.”

On a side note, I expected Texas to be heavily represented by camp participants--especially Austinites. I was a bit shocked to find out people had traveled from as far away as San Francisco, South Carolina and Washington, D.C. to attend the workshop. Two of the participants were repeat campgoers. And one gentleman said he didn’t know who Lambert even was until he happened upon Lambert’s “ Big Ranch, Big City Cookbook” in a bookstore. Wanting to find out more about Lambert he went to Goggle and then discovered the weekend of camp cooking. While drinking margaritas, we were treated to “Tequila 101” led by Chris Reale, a bartender at the trendy Grace restaurant in Fort Worth, Texas and an aspiring chef and restauraneur himself. Reale explained that there are two basic types of tequila--100 percent Blue Agave and Mixto which can have a minimum of 51 percent Blue Agave with the remaining 49 percent coming from other sugars. These categories are then divided into five types of tequila--white, gold, resposado, anejo and extra anejo. Reale said that you are more apt to get a hangover from drinking the less pure Mixto version of the spirit. One interesting fact, Mexican laws state that tequila can only be produced in the state of Jalisco and surrounding areas.

Ancho Chicken Tortilla Soup 1

1 whole cooked chicken, 3 /2 to 4 pounds, roasted or poached 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 large onion, small dice 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 1/2 cups ancho chili puree 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano leaves 1/4 cup cilantro, rough chop, plus more for garnish 1 (28 ounce) can chopped tomatoes, liquid drained 1 quart chicken stock 8 corn tortillas, cut into 1 1/2 inch squares and fried Juice of 1 lime 1/2 cup sour cream, for garnish 2 ripe Hass avocados, large dice 1 cup granted Monterey Jack cheese

Reale then mixed up his take on the margarita. A refreshing blend of lime juice, tequila and cucumber in a glass rimmed with chile powder and salt. Refueled publisher Chris Brown who doesn’t much care for tequila even liked this drink. Our night concluded with a performance by folk duo The Wasted Hearts. I watched on in true El Cosmico fashion curled up in a hammock under the stars. Prep and Eats at El Cosmico

Remove the skin and bones from chicken. Shred the chicken meat into bit size pieces and set aside.

Let me say that I never thought I’d wake up so refreshed after sleeping in a tent. However, just maybe the posh queen bed and linens had something to do with that.

Heat a heavy bottomed soup pot over medium high heat and add the vegetable oil. Add the onion and sauté until it becomes soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic to the pot and cook for 2 minutes. Add the chili puree, salt, black pepper, sugar, oregano and cilantro, cooking out the chilies for 2 minutes, constantly stirring to avoid scorching.

We met in the El Cosmico kitchen to prep lunch to take to the grill out back. The entire thing felt like I had landed on a Food Network episode as I sat across the bar from where the chefs were chopping and dicing. It’s here that Lambert gets to the nitty gritty of the workshop. “The purpose is not a recipe,” says Lambert. “The purpose is the method and how you do it.”

Add the tomatoes and chicken stock and bring the soup to a boil. Turn the fire to low and slowly simmer the soup for 20 to 30 minutes. Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning, if needed. Add the chicken and the juice of 1 lime to the soup. To serve, place a few corn tortilla chips in the bottom of each bowl. Ladle the hot soup over the tortilla chips and garnish with a dollop of sour cream, diced avocado, granted cheese and a sprinkle of cilantro.

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In addition to recipes and techniques, Lambert also focused on getting the most out of your culinary lifestyle. He gives tips on how you can throw a dinner party or barbecue without being stuck in the kitchen or at the grill away from your guests the entire time. He said that everything is about planning and preparation and suggested finding things you can do ahead of time if you are cooking at home or at a remote site. “Whether I am having a party or going camping, I prepare everything I can ahead,” Lambert explained. He also said to not be afraid to take short cuts. “Fresh tomatoes are always best when in season” explained Lambert. “But if they aren’t available or if you’re looking for convenience when camping, there is nothing wrong with using a tomato puree”.

sherry shallot and fine herbs, wood grilled ribeye steaks with border chimichurri, ancho grill gulf shimp skewers with romesco and apple/blackberry crisp with homemade Mexican vanilla ice cream. The perfect ending to the evening was gathering around the campfire where Dan Dyer played guitar and sang as the sun set over the mountains. In true cattle ranch form, as we drove away from the Bunkhouse on our way back to El Cosmico, we had to stop and shoo a herd of cattle out of the roadway. Once back at the campgrounds, an impromptu party broke out and the whiskey flowed. The Wasted Hearts joined in with their banjo and guitar. Laughter and conversation were heard way into the early hours of the morning.

After finishing up prep work, Lambert and the crew hauled everything to the grill out back. We watched as they put the finishing touches on our lunch - Romaine salad with lemon dressing and avocado, Far West vegetable passole, grilled adobo beef tenderlion with rajas con crema, camp beans and Spanish rice. Dessert was a to-die-for tres leche short cake topped with mixed berries.

Farewell Brunch The next morning, with many moving a little slowly, we met up at the outdoor kitchen on the El Cosmico grounds for brunch before hitting the road. James Smith shared his grandmother’s buttermilk biscuit recipe and demonstrated how to make this staple of any good southern breakfast. In addition, we devoured campfire corned beef hash with poached eggs, green chile grits, omelets cooked to order and griddled pancakes with berries and maple syrup before packing up and saying goodbyes and going our separate ways.

Destination Bunkhouse After lunch, camp participants were given free time to explore Marfa. Refueled staff was invited out to the Bunkhouse on the Taylor Ranch to hang out with Lou and the staff while they prepped for dinner.

Big City Camp Cooking provides a culinary journey into the tastes and flavors that Lou Lambert was raised on. Immersing camp participants into the heart of the West Texas high desert gives them a greater appreciation of this type of cuisine. Think weekend get-away meets cookbook come to life.

The Taylor Ranch, located about 30 minutes outside Marfa, is a working cattle ranch operated by Lambert’s cousin. Lambert explains that he and his sister claimed the Bunkhouse, an old abandoned ranch foreman’s house that had not been occupied for 20 years, as their own retreat in the desert. It has since been renovated in typical Liz Lambert style and a kitchen had also been added. The Bunkhouse consists of several small out buildings and a stone water tank used for swimming, all situated at the base of a mountain. The surrounding area of hills and cactus make it an idyllic spot to get away from city life and decompress. And by get away, I mean get away. Cell phone reception is sparse. Hold your cell phone just right on the front porch of the main house and you may get a bar or two if you are lucky.

Border Chimichurri 2 large shallots, finely diced 1/2 cup flat leaf parsley, medium chop 1/4 cup cilantro, medium chop 4 green onions, thinly sliced 1 serrano pepper, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped 1 teasppon granulated sugar Kosher salt and ground black pepper 1/2 cup red wine vinegar 1/2 cup olive oil

It was at the Bunkhouse that I was able to spend some oneon-one time chatting with Lambert on the front porch. I talked about cooking with my Jewish grandmother when I was young which led to a discussion on the virtues of skimming the foam when poaching a chicken. Lambert recalled an instructor in cooking school telling him to “skim the scum” in his thick German accent. We talked about the differences between cooking and baking. “Bakers are a different breed,” says Lambert. “Bakers use their heads. Chefs use their guts and instincts.”

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and mix to combine. Store the chimichurri in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

After the other camp goers arrived, we all convened on the back porch where Lambert and his team fired up the huge grill. We were treated to a hearty dinner of chopped salad with honey ctrus dressing, dutch-oven three onion focaccia braed, roasted cream pesto potatoes, grill asparagus with

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“I GREW UP EATING GRITS FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND DINNER, SO I JUST ASSUMED THAT EVERYONE KNEW WHAT GRITS WERE AND LOVED A BIG BOWL OF THEM WITH A LITTLE DAB OF BUTTER ON TOP, LIKE ME. I FOUND IT CURIOUS WHEN I LIVED IN NEW YORK AND CALIFORNIA THAT THERE ARE PEOPLE (EDUCATED NICE FOLKS) WHO TURN THEIR NOSES UP AT THE THOUGHT OF EATING GRITS. THEIR PROBLEM IS THAT THEY HAVE NEVER EATEN MY GREEN CHILE GRITS. YOU CAN’T GO WRONG WITH THE FLOVORS OF SWEET CORN, BUTTER, CREAMY JACK CHEESE AND ROASTED GREEN CHILIES ALL SWIMMING TOGETHER IN A BIG BOWL OF GRITS. THROW IN SOME BUTTERMILK BISCUITS AND YOU’RE IN HEAVEN.”

Green Chile Grits

Brunch Buttermilk Biscuits

4 cups milk 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teasppon freshly ground pepper 1 cup grits 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/2 cup green chile puree 4 ounces Jack cheese, grated 2 green onions, finely chopped

3 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons salt 1 tablespoon baking powder 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 tablespoon sugar 6 tablespoons butter, cold 1 1/2 cups buttermilk Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda and sugar. Add the cold butter and work with a pastry cutter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. With a rubber spatula, fold in the buttermilk until the dough just comes together.

Bring the milk, salt and pepper to the boil in a heavy bottomed pot. As soon as the milk comes to the boil, gradually whisk in the grits. Turn down the heat to a simmer and slowly cook the grits, stirring to keep from sticking, until thick and creamy, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour and roll out to about 3/4 inch thick. Cut out biscuits with a 2 1/2 inch biscuit cutter and place on a greased baking sheet about 1/4 inch apart. Gather up the biscuit scraps and gently fold together. Roll out again and cut a few more.

Remove the grits from the fire and stir in the butter and chile puree. Fold in the cheese and green onions and serve immediately. Gree Chile Puree

Bake the biscuits until they are golden brown, about 15 minutes. Serve the hot biscuits with plenty of whipped butter, jam and honey.`

1 large poblano pepper, roasted, stemmed and seeded 1/4 cup spinach leaves, stemmed 1/4 cup flat leaf parsley, rough chop 1/4 cup boiling water Pinch of kosher salt Put all the ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth. Green chile puree can be held in the refrigerator for up to a week.