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Culture

PARIS to a fine art

Lifestyle

Raging bulles in CHAMPAGNE

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PERRIER-JOUËT, THE ALLURING CHAMPAGNE Since its foundation in 1811, the champagne house Perrier-Jouët has crafted elegant, floral wines of rare finesse with a Chardonnay hallmark. The elegance of the cuvees echoes that of the Art Nouveau anemones adorning the Belle Epoque bottle and offers moments of pure delight and beauty. www.perrier-jouet.com

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From the Editor

DESIGN, ARCHITECTURE,

ART, THEATRE – FRANCE IS SYNONYMOUS WITH THESE, ALONG WITH ROMANCE, FASHION, PHILOSOPHY, GASTRONOMY AND WINE. I AM OFTEN ASKED HOW IT IS THAT THIS COUNTRY, SMALLER IN SIZE THAN NEW SOUTH WALES, REMAINS THE EPICENTRE OF SO MUCH CULTURE.

or millennia, France has

unending at the time. We revisit the 1916

nurtured every form of

battles at Pozières and Fromelles, where

human cultivation. It has been

Australian soldiers suffered terrible losses.

traversed by Romans, pilgrims

Of course, being our culture issue, we

and revolutionaries alike;

also focus on all the intangible treasures that

its tolerant, open spirit has

make France what it is. Explore our top picks

embraced artists and inventors, intellectuals

of cities, towns, performances, exhibitions,

and entrepreneurs, refugees and royals.

architecture and more. Vive la France.

This spirit of openness is why France has lost none of its fascination through centuries of change and revolution, and why some 1.2 million Australians visited in 2014. It is why no act of terror or intimidation will quench the spirit of any French city, Paris or otherwise, and why France stands proud in welcoming its international guests to a safe, uplifting travel experience in 2016 and

Patrick Benhamou Director Atout France in Australia France Tourism Development Agency patrick.benhamou@atout-france.fr

beyond. This year marks the midpoint in the centenary events of a different crisis – World War One, a savage war that must have seemed

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120 26 | RENDEZ-VOUS EN FRANCE 2016 DIRECTOR OF PUBLICATIONS Christian Mantei EDITOR Stephanie Oley

67 Le Meurice Artistic impressions

18 Sud de France Artistic retreat 24 L’Occitane Purity, pleasure, Provence 26 Monaco High society

PROOFREADER Paula Towers PUBLISHER Peter Berman CONTRIBUTORS Danielle Bricker, Ruby Boukabou, Lizzie Davey, Vanessa Couchman, Coralie Giraudet, Susan Gough Henley, Gretchen Holm, Yolanda Koning, Sophie Ibbotson, Ella Lombardi, Persephone Nicholas, Adrianne Young Cover photograph © Ionut Caras, 500PX Printed in China ATOUT FRANCE AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND France Tourism Development Agency Editorial, Production and Sales Team: Patrick Benhamou, Sophie Almin, Charline Joly, Lucie Leparquier, Alexandre Venec, Sarah Elfassy, Claire Kaletka-Neil, Anais Leloup, Garance Garcia, Charly Bongiorno, Thomas Lefebvre. L13, 25 Bligh Street Sydney NSW 2000 Australia T: +61 2 9231 5243 F:+ 61 2 9221 8682 www.france.fr

Become our Facebook fan www.facebook.com/AtoutFranceAU

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Watch new content on YouTube www.youtube.com/user/frenchtouristoffice

| HERITAGE & HISTORY |

82 Somme Tales from the trenches |

84 Flanders All quiet on the Western Front

38 Lyon River queen 40 Beaune A living wine library

104 Air France Up in the air

54 Bordeaux City of grace

110 Antibes Tender is the night

58 Dinner party A Parisian life in courses

65 George V Signature dish

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102 Arts Picture this

49 Bordeaux-Aquitaine Magical mystery tour

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100 Paris Forever young

42 Dijon Best in class

62 Terre Blanche Stroke of genius

69 Hyatt Paris Private retreat

80 Northern France Surf and turf

28 Le Ponant Sea change

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116 New Caledonia My island paradise 120 Tahiti Pearl of the Pacific

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35360EYA

MERCI Australia

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Photography

SNAP happy ATOUT FRANCE HAS PARTNERED WITH LEADING ARTS ACADEMY, LES GOBELINS, TO CREATE A SERIES OF EXHIBITIONS INSPIRED BY THE NATION’S RENOWNED CUISINE.

f the Old Masters could do it, then so can the tech-savvy modern ones. We’re talking about depicting food in the arts, of course – a theme particularly fitting in France. After all, this is a country whose cuisine was listed as a UNESCO ‘world intangible heritage’ practice in 2010, and which has perhaps the world’s most-imitated wines, dining customs and foods (brie, pommes frîtes or champagne, anyone?). Now, Atout France has collaborated with Les Gobelins, School of the Image, inspired by French gastronomy in different regions. Seventy students were given carte blanche to take photographs in eight locations, with the stellar results to be unveiled at several photography exhibitions this year.

Further Information Atout France www.france.fr 16

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Above: Hôtel Intercontintental from the Lignes Parisiennes series (photo © Sasha Mongin); below: Les Dames de l’Ouest (photo © Margherita Muriti and Charlotte Mano).

Opposite page: La Monnaie de Paris (photo © Guy Savoy]; Hôtel Intercontintental also from the Lignes Parisiennes series (photo © Sasha Mongin).

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Sud de France

Artistic RETREAT

Above: this public building Pierresvives, by Zaha Hadid, exemplifies Montpellier’s recent architectural innovations (photo © Marc Dantan). From left, below: terrace setting and outdoor lounge at Château Castigno (photo ©Sud de France); Musée Fabre (photo © Montpellier Metropole).

GLEAMING CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE JOSTLES SIDE BY SIDE WITH ROMAN AND MEDIEVAL-ERA RELICS IN LANGUEDOCROUSSILLON, MIDI-PYRÉNEES, WHERE ARTFUL CUISINE, FINE WINES AND SUN-DRENCHED LANDSCAPES COMPLETE THE PICTURE. BY DANIELLE BRICKER

hen you’re craving a sunny Mediterranean climate coupled with rich heritage, your first thought may be the southern region of France. If you look to the country’s southwest, you’ll find Languedoc-Roussillon, MidiPyrénees offers a particularly fine experience for travellers. This large French region’s five departments carry widely varied landscapes – both geographic and cultural. Sharing a border with Spain, Pyrénées-

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Orientales benefits from a distinctly Catalan influence. Hot and exotic with bustling beaches, this is the place to experience a corner of France you may never have imagined. History lovers will find plenty to occupy themselves in the Aude, home to stunning World Heritage Sites including the Canal du Midi and La Cité at Carcassonne, or in the Gard, where you’ll find the famed Pont du Gard. If you prefer an uncrowded highland terrain, Lozere is sure to be your cup of tea, while city slickers will prefer the fast-growing pace in Herault, as

the population of Montpellier, its main city, continues to skyrocket.

BUILT TO IMPRESS Montpellier is also home to the contemporary architecture that has become a trademark of Languedoc-Roussillon, MidiPyrénees. France’s most talented architects and designers, including Christian Lacroix, Philippe Starck, and Jean Nouvel, have all left their mark on this avant-garde city. Marvel at the

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experimental design of Le Nuage, a five-storey sports and wellness club meant to evoke the ethereal nature of clouds. This is France’s first inflatable building, with rough structured framing alternated with a transparent membrane of ultra-thin screenprinted plastic, which can be inflated with hot air. The fun can last all day with a self-guided walking tour, courtesy of the office of tourism’s free Contemporary Montpellier app, an audio guide which will lead you to 24 hotspots around the city. Should you desire a shopping break, the Halles Jacques Coeur is both a wonderful market to pass the time in and a masterpiece of modern architecture with its transparent façade. To the east, Nîmes may draw visitors for the Pont du Gard, but it has its fair share of contemporary architecture as well. The Carré d’Art exemplifies modernism inside and out, with a vast contemporary art collection housed in a glass and steel building that establishes an interesting dialogue with the first century Roman temple across the way. Perpignan, located on the coast of PyrénéesOrientales, also plays host to architectural gems like the Théâtre de l’Archipel, a modular arts complex whose eye-catching red dome was designed by Jean Nouvel, and the Palais des Congrès, a contemporary convention center nestled amid a lush, central park.

HERITAGE AND HISTORY Sprinkled throughout the region are several UNESCO World Heritage Sites, which make Languedoc-Roussillon, Midi-Pyrénees a naturally favoured destination for discerning travellers. Carcassonne’s La Cite is one of the best preserved medieval fortifications in Europe, while the Pont du Gard strikes one of France’s most well-known images across the

Main: tree-inspired residence, Arbre 21, in Montpellier (photo © Sud de France); left: Salon Vert inside the Musée Fabre (photo © Montpellier Metropole).

sunny southern skyline. The Canal du Midi has tied the region together since the 17th century and runs from Toulouse to Etang de Thau.

Practically every vacation includes a museum visit or two, and you have stellar choices in Languedoc-Roussillon, Midi-Pyrénees.

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CERCLE PRESTIGE When only the best will do, turn to the Cercle Prestige. This vital tourism resource singles out the finest of Languedoc-Roussillon, Midi-Pyrénees’ luxury establishments. Elegant boutique hotels, the most delectable menus of gourmet restaurants, and the UNESCO World Heritage Sites that make LanguedocRoussillon, Midi-Pyrénees a naturally favoured destination… all of the region’s best and brightest come together under the Cercle Prestige name.

SPECTACULAR STAYS

Top: luxurious styling at Domaine de Verchant (photo © Sud de France); below: guest suite at Château Orfeuillette (photo © Sud de France).

The Musée Fabre in Montpellier offers an impressive collection of paintings and sculpture spanning the 15th through 20th centuries. Meanwhile, the medieval village of Lagrasse in Carcassonne could perhaps be a living museum in its own right, but its Musée-Caveau le 1900 is something even more distinctive. After you explore its exhibits on Belle Époque history, you can enjoy a wine tasting at the in-house bar.

Indeed, while Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne may attract most of the international acclaim, Languedoc-Roussillon, Midi-Pyrénees is the largest wine-producing region in the entire world, with about 283,000 hectares under vine. Chateau-Abbaye de Cassan in Roujan is an attraction for both its history as a 12th century priory and its rosé wine. Château Haut-Gléon has equally historic roots and quality wines, but also doubles as a posh hotel.

Montpellier can be an attractive place to base yourself for your exploration of the region. Bed down in luxury at the Domaine de Verchant, a spa hotel housed in a 16th century mansion. If you like the idea of an historical setting, but would prefer a smaller town to call home for your trip, try La Maison d’Uzès, an extravagant set of lodgings comprising three 17th century houses, all located in a small village just north of Nîmes. If the region’s chic modern architecture inspired your visit, a stay at the Château d’Orfeuillette will tie your trip together. This four-star property in Lozère features glamorous contemporary design and luxurious gardens. Elsewhere in this northernmost department of the region, you’ll find the Village Castigno. Noted by the Cercle Prestige (see sidebar) for its impeccable quality, this collection of luxury accommodations runs the gamut from quaint MAGAZINE

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converted stables to an opulent nine-room mansion. Perhaps you’d prefer a more unique twist on your lodging. The Péniche HÔtel Alegria has all the ritzy amenities you could ask for, with one key difference to traditional hotels: it’s located on a barge ready to escort you along the historic Canal du Midi from the charming town of Beziers to the storied fortifications of Carcassonne.

DINE IN STYLE When in Montpellier, enjoying the city’s chic contemporary style can easily carry over to mealtime. La Panacée is a gloriously modern cultural center whose café dishes out the best brunch in town. If you find yourself feeling more adventurous, pay a visit to Pastis Restaurant. The fixed menu at this establishment changes regularly based on its expert chef’s interpretation of each day’s market-fresh ingredients, so you never know exactly what will find its way onto your plate. Elsewhere in the region, you can enjoy traditional Mediterranean cuisine with careful staff attention at a variety of restaurants, including L’Ancien Théâtre in Nîmes. Top: night crowds at Triangle Feuchères in Nîmes (photo © William Truffy); below: sampling wines near Carcassonne (photo © C Deschamps).

Further information Sud de France en.destinationsuddefrance.com

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Above right: water feature at Le Couvent des Minimes; Immortelle blooms from Corsica (photo © PressImmortelleEurope). Below: L'Occitane's Néroli fragrance, rich in the scents of Provence.

Beauty

Purity, pleasure, PROVENCE

RICH IN AUTHENTICITY, SKINCARE BRAND L’OCCITANE CAPTURES THE NATURE AND SCENTS OF THE PROVENCE ORCHARD AND MARKETPLACE – ALMOND BLOSSOMS DANCING ON THE MISTRALS, THE AIR HEADY WITH HONEY. BY ADRIANNE YOUNG

ature and cultivation move in tandem in Provence, and from this partnership a life of pure pleasure is born. The perfumeries of Grasse are a prime example of how the people of Provence refine the land’s wild pleasures. Intoxicating scents, once indispensable to French nobility, are inspired by local harvests of lavender, orange blossoms and rose petals. This flower-bedecked town is a fragrance lover’s dream. Visit L’Occitane’s pristine perfumery and come away with a full appreciation of the great art and history of perfume making. Experience Provence un-edited and make an excursion to the breathtaking Gorges Du Verdon. This 25-kilometre long canyon provides a rare glimpse of untrammelled wilderness. Take a drive along the canyon’s rim, walk one of its many trails or kayak the impossibly blue 24

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water aside sheer 700-metre cliffs. In Arles, inspiration plays constant companion and new art is celebrated. Don’t miss the annual summer photography festival Rencontres d’Arles, which largely showcases unpublished work and acts as a launching pad for emerging artists. Live Monday morning like a local at the festive Forcalquier market. Located in the centre of town, the market spreads throughout Place du Bourguet. Over 300 stalls keep the area’s kitchens stocked with fresh produce, locally made bread, cheese, pasta and meats. Be sure to bring a shopping sack for irresistible clusters of grapes and achingly soft cheese. L’Occitane offers several exclusive guest experiences in this setting, which has been integral to its product offering over the four decades since the company was founded in 1976. Just 10 minutes away from those markets

is the Le Couvent des Minimes HÔtel & Spa in Mane. The chic five-star spa hotel is the epitome of Provence’s easy marriage of pastoral beauty and absolute elegance. From the perfectly appointed hotel rooms to the garden café tables, each detail coaxes a new level of calm. Prepare for an unforgettable gastronomic journey in any one of the hotel’s three dining establishments. The airy bistro offers outside seating, the well-appointed Le Cloitre Restaurant is intimate and welcoming, and the stunning wine cellar offers privacy.

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In the hotel’s L’Occitane spa, wellbeing is perfected with services customised to each individual using L’Occitane’s all-natural product line. Every gesture, every line and every ingredient draws on the brand’s lush herbarium. From the moment you enter a L’Occitane spa, the fragrances transport you to the fields of Provence. Be pampered with their iconic products, such as Crème Divine, featuring the anti-ageing powers of immortelle from Corsica (which is also ethically sourced, as are all L’Occitane ingredients). Guests are immersed in the care and hospitality that have made L’Occitane spas renown worldwide. For a more interactive L’Occitane experience, head to the bustling town of Manosque, where you can take a free one-hour tour of L’Occitane’s factory and workshop, learn the art of perfume mixing firsthand in the dynamic L’Occitane museum and take advantage of exclusive pricing and services in the L’Occitane store – the largest in France. There is so much living to be had in Provence that a guided tour might be the best use of your precious time in the region. Specialised bespoke tours offer the luxury of seeing Provence in intimate guided groups. L’Occitane opens doors to exclusive experiences, available only through its partnership with Kairos Travel. Further Information L’Occitane www.au.loccitane.com couventdesminimes–hotelspa.com Unique Provence by Kairos Travel www.unique-provence.com

Clockwise from top: Divine cream; lavender field in Provence (photo © Atout France/Phovoir); lounge area at Le Couvent des Minimes (photo © Couvent des Minimes).

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Clockwise from above: The majestic yacht Tuiga outside Monaco Yacht Club (photo © Carlo Borlenghi); spiral staircase inside the club (photo © Nigel Young); silver service at Monaco’s epochal Louis XV-Alain Ducasse (photo © Pierre Monetta); inside the Hotel Hermitage’s Diamond Suite (photo © SBM).

Monaco

High SOCIETY

A RECENTLY REOPENED YACHT CLUB, GLAMOROUS STAYS BOASTING NAMES LIKE ‘DIAMOND SUITE’, AND A YEAR-ROUND CHOICE OF CULTURAL ACTIVITIES ALL MAKE MONACO AS APPEALING AS EVER. BY DANIELLE BRICKER

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n ultra-glam Monaco, crowds may come and go, but luxury and culture are year-round commodities. December through February is low season, when you’ll feel like royalty with so few tourists vying for a hotel room. May through August is peak season. Monaco’s proximity to Nice and Cannes makes it easy to incorporate your stay into a larger French itinerary, while its rich cultural history means it is a worthy destination on its own as well. The Grimaldi dynasty dates back to the 13th century and encompasses the famed rule of Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly, a classic symbol of Monegasque glamour. Today, attractions like Monte Carlo Casino of James Bond fame make this tiny principality prime fodder for high rollers.

WHAT TO DO The Formula 1 Grand Prix held each spring is a major draw for visitors, but you’ll find plenty of events, festivals, and other things to do throughout the year.

In winter, families can enjoy the International Circus Festival. Prince Rainier III introduced this beloved wintertime tradition to his country in the mid-1970s. The party spreads joy throughout Monaco’s streets with a grand parade from Fontvieille to the Place du Palais. Any time of the year, experience oceanic wonders at the well-loved Oceanographic Museum, formerly run by the legendary explorer Jacques Cousteau. One- and two-hour guided tours are available, to introduce you to over 6,000 marine specimens in faithfully reconstructed natural habitats. Nautical fans have another reason to visit Monaco year-round: the exciting programs offered at the recently reopened Monaco Yacht Club including its rowing club and sailing school. Designed by Lord Norman Foster, the club features an atrium entry and a series of terraces overlooking both the sea and the Formula 1 Grand Prix track. And you can’t discuss Monaco without a mention of its world-class shopping. The Carte d’Or neighborhood near the Place du Casino brims with glittering jewellery shops

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and haute couture fashion boutiques from the world’s best designers. You may also enjoy the high-fashion wares of the Metropole Shopping Center, also nearby.

WHERE TO EAT Located in Hotel de Paris for over 25 years, the Louis XV-Alain Ducasse is a timeless place to pamper your palate. This was the first-ever hotel restaurant to earn more than three Michelin stars, and it also awarded a first Michelin star to chef Alain Ducasse, now a gem in the French culinary crown. Just reopened after an extensive overhaul, the menu expresses a strong connection to the heritage of the Riviera, with locally sourced fish, traditional Provençal vegetables and luxurious black truffle flavouring. The wine menu incorporates seasonal rotations, carefully selected vintages, and the expansive stores of the Société de Bains de Mer wine cellar. You’ll find yourself equally well treated at Le Vistamar, prime restaurant at the HÔtel Hermitage. In the kitchen, Michelin-starred chef Joël Garault focuses on sustainable culinary art, particularly local seafood.

WHERE TO STAY Constructed in the early 20th century, Hotel Hermitage’s neoclassical architecture will whisk you away to the golden days of the Belle Epoque. Catering to all travellers from luxurious leisure hounds to business travellers, the hotel was recently renovated to better integrate the elegant Belle Epoque décor with more modern touches. Its 278 rooms offer an impressive list of plush amenities, but when you’re looking to emulate Monaco’s glitterati, only the best will do; for that, you’ll want to look toward the Diamond Suites. Gourmets will find themselves in good company with breakfast or afternoon tea at Le Limùn, vintage wines and champagnes at the Crystal Bar and Terrace, and fresh seafood at Le Vistamar. Further Information Visit Monaco www.visitmonaco.com MAGAZINE

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Clockwise from above: foredeck of the Le Lyrial (photo © Marie Fontrier); (inset) Atout France director Patrick Benhamou with Monique Ponfoort, Vice President Australasia, PONANT, Yacht Cruises & Expeditions; gastronomy on board (photo © Nuel Dugied).

EXPERIENCE THE MEDITERRANEAN ABOARD AN-ALL FRENCH CRUISE LINER, PART OF THE EXCLUSIVE PONANT FLEET, AND YOU MAY NEVER WISH TO TRY A DIFFERENT CRUISE EXPERIENCE AGAIN. BY AMELIA HUNGERFORD

or my first cruise, I fear I may have started at the top. Over the few days I spend at sea with PONANT, Yacht Cruises & Expeditions – the only cruise line to sail under the French flag – I become used to the intimate size and warmth of a small luxury vessel. From the moment I see Le Lyrial, moored beside Marseille’s glass-encased Villa Mediterranée, her dove-grey 28

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hull gleaming in the autumn sun, it is clear this is no ordinary ship. Le Lyrial is the newest of PONANT’s modern fleet, making her debut earlier in 2015. In 2016, she will undertake her first Antarctic season, but for now she cruises the Mediterranean, close to the company’s homeport of Marseille. Her three sister ships are nearly identical, with only the number of cabins and the colour schemes of their Jean-Philippe Nueldesigned interiors to tell them apart. Le Lyrial’s cool tones of pale blue and grey complement the polished chrome that features throughout this vessel with 122 staterooms and suites, 95 per cent of them with balcony. Perhaps the most exciting thing for the Francophile, though, is to be greeted with a crisp “Bonjour” wherever you go. All the ship’s announcements are made in French and English, and a large percentage of the

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Experience the Ponant Moment 9.45 am S 62°54’48.08’’ W 55°17’56.22’’

AWAKEN YOUR SENSE OF WONDER

Uniquely, PONANT understands that the concepts of luxury cruising and expedition cruising are not mutually exclusive, offering a selection of itineraries that provide opportunity to meander through some of the most sublime historic and marine environments in the world. Other voyages, equally luxurious, are designated as expeditions and appeal to inquisitive travellers keen to explore the rarely visited, all enhanced by knowledgeable lecturers and specialist expedition teams. Four compact yachts comprise the youngest fleet in the world, plus a classic three masted yacht for traditional sailors. With a maximum of 132 oceanview suites and staterooms, 95% with private balcony, they exude understated elegance combined with French ambiance, outstanding gastronomy, inclusive fine wines and the comfort and facilities of a 5-star yacht. Contact your travel agent or PONANT: 1300 737 178 reservations.aus@ponant.com

ANTARCTICA - ARCTIC - ASIA - AUSTRALIA - BALTIC MEDITERRANEAN - PACIFIC - SOUTH AMERICA

www.ponant.com

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Above: Monaco is just one of PONANT’s French Mediterranean stops (photo © Monaco Tourism. Below: Interior styling on board (photo © Ponant/Nuel Dugied)

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small fleet of bikes is offered to help passengers explore the first Italian city on the itinerary, while others choose to visit its more illustrious neighbours of Florence, Lucca and Pisa. The next day we arrive in Gaeta at midday, enjoying lunch in the middle of the bay while executive chef Erwin Unterberger barbecues fresh sea bass with a deft hand. At night, we make a ritual of ascending to our top-bar vantage point to watch the ship sail away before we feast on fine French classics in Le Céleste and La Comète. The after-dinner entertainment varies from dance performances to piano recitals, and inevitably ends in the Main Lounge on Deck Three, where Jean-Paul or Anna-Rita will croon the night away. Passengers talk of the ‘PONANT moment’ or l’instant PONANT, but there is far more to the experience than one moment. It is the whole

GETTING THERE Marseille is a 90-minute flight or a threehour TGV train ride from Paris-Charles de Gaulle. Air France flies to Paris-CDG from Sydney and Melbourne via various Asian gateways with its partner airlines. www.raileurope.com.au www.airfrance.com/au passengers are from France – or from France via Sydney, as is the case of another cruise first-timer, Patrick Benhamou, Director of Atout France Australia. When we set sail later that night, a small group gathers at the top-deck bar, wrapped up against the wind as we sip champagne 30

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and watch the ship silently, gracefully pass the Old Port of Marseille and make its way down the Mediterranean coast. We are bound for Monaco and then Italy, finally disembarking in Palermo, Sicily. If you are to arrive anywhere by a luxury megayacht, then surely Monte Carlo is the place; its harbour is dotted with elite private vessels. We take breakfast at the buffet restaurant, La Comète, beside the pool on Deck Six, with an early-morning view of the principality. Most travellers are quick to head into the city, keen to explore its palace, Oceanographic Museum and the iconic Place du Casino. In Livorno, a

journey – the elegant, oh-so-French ship, her passionate crew, her extraordinary locales – that makes a PONANT cruise unforgettable. Further Information PONANT, Yacht Cruises & Expeditions www.ponant.com

Le Lyrial’s sister ship, L’Austral, will be cruising Australia and New Zealand from December this year to February 2017. Four new Explorer luxury expedition ships due to start cruising in 2018 and 2019.

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Experience the Ponant Moment 1.15 pm N 42°20’50.32’’ E 8°36’36.26’’

AWAKEN YOUR SENSE OF WONDER

What better way to explore the Mediterranean or Caribbean than sailing, literally, on the classic three masted yacht, Le Ponant? At 88 metres length with only 32 cabins, her low-profile, dynamic lines and streamlined decks offer guests a refined, intimate and exclusive sailing experience. On board, enjoy a French lifestyle and refined adventure: unique comfort & service, Open Bar, sophisticated cuisine and fine wine. Equally at home in Monaco or St. Tropez, as she is when under sail around Corsica, Sicily or Sardinia, this is Mediterranean cruising at its elegant best. Or, perhaps the tropical islands of the Caribbean appeal, with their crystal-clear waters and golden beaches lined with coconut trees and exotic flowers... Let the gentle ripple of the breeze in the sails lull you, or take a dip from Le Ponant’s stern marina platform, and wake each morning under a new azure sky. Your exclusive private yacht and traditional sailing experience awaits...

Contact your travel agent or PONANT: 1300 737 178 reservations.aus@ponant.com

ANTARCTICA - ARCTIC - ASIA - AUSTRALIA - BALTIC MEDITERRANEAN - PACIFIC - SOUTH AMERICA

www.ponant.com

ate ch m i t ul Fren e h T e for e enc e vivr r e f re art d

www.lebristolparis.com

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OUR PICK OF THE BEST FRENCH JOURNEYS – AND ARMCHAIR TRAVELS – FOR 2016.

Tour

Built to last Architrip’s walking tour of the City of Light will take you through all its major modern and contemporary architectural landmarks. Led by passionate professionals, the tour explores the city through time and space, taking you from Montparnasse ateliers dating to the Roaring Twenties, to the contemporary urban renewal projects, without forgetting scores of beautiful 17th century buildings. Fascinating and thorough, the tour offers a brand-new perspective on the capital and includes a Parisian café stop. www.architrip.fr

Opening

Ode to performance Due to open in late 2016, the Cité de la Musique on Paris’ former

The new Philharmonie de Paris, one of the stops on Architrip (photo © Knitram).

industrial site of Seguin Island will sport an auditorium of 1,100 seats and a concert hall with up to 6,000 seats, along with several recording and rehearsal rooms. It aims to make art accessible to all, with spaces dedicated to children’s activities and public exhibits. Designed by architects Shigeru Ban and Jean de Gastines, the complex will make this corner of Paris an

artistic force to be reckoned with. www.citedelamusique.fr

Cellar

A fine drop

Rich displays at Le Taillevent’s state-ofthe-art cellars (photos © Francis Amiand).

Construction on the new Cité de la Musique will transform the neglected Seguin Island (photo © Cite de la Musique/Shigeru Ban Architects Europe – Jean de Gastines Architectes).

This year, venerable Paris dining room Le Taillevent celebrates 70 years of wowing guests with its superbly traditional haute cuisine. Established in 1946, it went on to win three Michelin stars, open a London branch, and launch the wine shops Les Caves de Taillevent. Here visitors can choose from 1,500 fine French wines, from the most famous appellations to the most elusive and the most compelling new picks. www.taillevent.com MAGAZINE

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Illuminate

Winter’s tale Every year in December, Lyon lights up for the Fête de la Lumière. The whole city becomes an art show, with themed light installations creating a completely different scene and atmosphere

Walt Disney exec David Clark, from Sydney, enjoys a Bordeaux-style reward after his run.

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on every street corner, along with celebrations including theatre, street art, special exhibits and openings, as well as the famous Lyon Christmas Market. For four nights, Lyon is the prettiest French city, so save the date for 8 - 11 December 2016. www.fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr/en

An intimate view into the world of Leonardo da Vinci.

Marathon du Médoc One of the world’s most colourful runs, Marathon du Médoc is coming up again this September – prime wine-tasting season in Bordeaux’s renowned Médoc region. Hardcore runners are signing up for next year’s run, as the 8,500 spaces for this year are close to full, but bon vivants everywhere will still get much joy out of the three days of non-stop music, food events, silly costumes and fine dining opportunities. www.marathondumedoc.com

Spectacle

Picasso in Marseille

Maestro Art trail

When Renaissance master Leonardo da Vinci was invited to reside at Château du Clos Lucé in 1516, few could have known the legacy he would leave. After crossing the Alps on muleback with all his notebooks and three paintings from Rome, the 64-year-old maestro settled in to complete a host of works. Today, visitors can see the innumerable technical sketches, paintings and inventions that ensued. Just one hour from Paris by TGV, the château is open year-round except Christmas and New Year’s Day. www.vinci-closluce.com

Marseille’s stunning MuCEM once again offers a great program for 2016. Of note is the Picasso exhibit, “A genius without a pedestal”, running until 29 August, which delves deep into themes and encounters that shaped the artist’s work. Also promising is “After Babel, Translate”, starting 14 December 2016, recognising the creative and cultural force of translation. “Made in Algeria”, from 20 January to 2 May 2017, explores artefacts from a faraway Mediterranean coast. www.mucem.org/en

Themed lights transform Lyon Cathedral (photo © Muriel-Chaulet).

Marseille’s landmark MuCEM is showcases Mediterranean civilisation and culture (photo © Mucem-St Jean-Larry). 34

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Ship shape The stunning new Yacht Club Monaco is a sleek addition to the sailing, rowing and celebratory possibilities on offer at Monaco harbour. Award-winning Foster + Partners and Monegasque architects Cabinet Alexandre Giraldi have conceived the club as a series of decks (rather than floors), all angled for optimal ocean racing views. The bars, restaurant and ballrooms are mostly members-only, but anyone can soak up the scene around the marina shops. www. yacht-club-monaco.mc/en

The new yacht club finally completes a marina newly extended in 2013 (photo © Yacht Club Monaco).

costumes simply defy ruffled skirts and can-can dancing. Apart from its sexy original revues, guests are often treated to performances by international stars like Dita von Teese and Conchita Wurst. Shows are held several nights each week. www.lecrazyhorseparis.com

Left Bank Intimate hideaway

Cabaret

Crazy Horse Since its launch in 1951, Crazy Horse Paris has carved out a reputation as France’s hippest and most daring cabaret – its high-art stage direction, multinational cast and futuristic

Tucked behind a set of wrought iron gates that open to a garden courtyard is the intimate Hôtel Relais Christine. Once a medieval abbey, this Small Luxury Hotels of the World member oozes charm with its old fireplaces, vaulted ceilings and wood panelling hung with portraits, hinting at the hotel’s past. Vintage glamour combines with contemporary style in each guest room. In summer, the suites’ private garden terraces beckon guests to relax with an aperitif, while winters are made for fireside gatherings in the drawing room. www.slh.com/ hotels/hotel-relais-christine

Orderly Parisian intimacy at Hôtel Relais Christine (photo © SLH).

Dramatic burlesque styling at Le Crazy Horse Paris (photo © Riccardo Tinelli).

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Ruby red lips With the famous red Louboutin soles already being seen on the feet of every fashionable woman, the brand is now launching a new lipstick to complete its collection. The dramatic Red Louboutin lippie is a new must-have, and comes in three textures: Silky Satin, Velvet Matte and Sheer Voile. At last it’s possible to be Louboutin from head to toe. www.asia.christianlouboutin.com

Nook

Louboutin silky satin lipstick (photo © Ali Mahdavi).

Hotel de l’Abbaye is an archetypal Parisian stay, with its 40 classically styled rooms and suites, charming courtyard and striped chintz armchairs in the breakfast room – the perfect complement to your croissant and café au lait. The hotel is tucked away in SaintGermain-des-Prés, bristling with restaurants, clubs and theatres. Cross the cobbled courtyard to enter, and you’ll feel as if you’ve been whisked away to another era – one where the service is gracious, the antiques real and where no one is stopping you from relaxing in the garden courtyard all afternoon. www.hotelabbayeparis.com

Indoor pool and mosaics at Hôtel Paris Bastille Boutet.

Hotel de l’Abbaye

Boutique

Hôtel Paris Bastille Boutet Intimate and unusual stays are a hallmark of Accor Group’s MGallery brands, and the discreet five-star Hôtel Paris Bastille Boutet hotel is a proud new addition to their portfolio as of December. The former cabinet-

Hôtel de l’Abbaye. 36

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maker’s workshop-turnedchocolate factory has been meticulously overhauled for comfort, while its industrial heritage is still evident in its stunning façade. The 80 rooms and suites offer high ceilings, chic modern styling and hightech comforts. The swimming pool and its mosaics are neighbourhood treasures, and the spa offers a delicious range of treatments. www.mgallery.com

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Historic buildings along the Saône River, near its confluence with the Rhône River (photo © T Deschamps).

Lyon

RIVER F queen

SENSATIONAL FOOD MARKETS, A DREAMY RIVERSIDE LOCATION AND A DYNAMIC BLEND OF ANTIQUITIES WITH BRAND-NEW ATTRACTIONS MAKE LYON ONE OF FRANCE’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS. BY GRETCHEN HOLM

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or nearly 2,000 years, Lyon has graced the banks of the Rhône and Saône rivers. Its claims to fame span from its earliest days as a Roman capital, through its years as a centre of publishing and silk-weaving. Today, the city’s greatest pride is its cuisine, with food lovers from around the world visiting to sample the offerings of thousands of restaurants. Lyon’s long history doesn’t mean it’s a quaint, stagnant city. Instead, it bursts with new life. Its Confluence district, once an industrial area, now attracts visitors as a trendy, bustling center of modernity. The striking combination of architecture here ranges from restored industrial warehouses to brightly colored, ultramodern buildings. One of the most architecturally notable buildings is the new Musée des Confluences.

This museum, which just opened in 2014, masterfully combines explorations of natural history and anthropology. In January 2016, the new Grand Stade (or the Stade des Lumières, meaning the “Stadium of Lights”) opened with nearly 60,000 seats and state-of-the-art technology for music shows and sporting events alike.

ONE MORE NIGHT With over six million visitors per year, Lyon offers a wide range of places to stay. Quaint, charming bed and breakfasts dot the area, offering homey comfort and authentic European experiences. For visitors who prefer more elegance, the new Fourvière Hôtel combines centuries of history with ultra-modern decor and

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Left: Musée des Confluences in the hip new district of the same name, which takes its name from Lyon’s unique geography (photo © Quentin Lafont); Burgundy wine and Paté Croûte, a Lyonnaise delicacy (photo © Roger Stowell-Onlylyon Tourisme).

Musée des Confluences, stop by its Brasserie des Confluences for elegant, sophisticated dishes that show just how far culture has evolved from the roots of humanity explored within the museum. conveniences. Its roots in an 1854 building by architect Pierre Bossan are lovingly preserved, but each of its 75 rooms is fresh and modern. OKKO Hotel similarly sits at the confluence of history and modernity. Since its December 2014 opening in the stunningly overhauled 19th-century Lyon Prefecture building, OKKO has anticipated the modern traveler’s needs with appealing yet accessible services. It offers eco-friendly transport, 85 rooms with a contemporary and minimalist design, and sensible pricing. If you prefer classical to cutting-edge, try Mercure Château Perrache (www.accorhotels. com). A listed Art Nouveau historic monument built in 1906, the hotel offers 120 newly upgraded rooms, and a central location just a few minutes’ walk from Place Bellecour. The rooms are an inviting blend of elegance and

modernity, with a generous dash of old-world charm..

CUISINE LYONNAISE For foodies around the world, Lyon is synonymous with its famous chef, Paul Bocuse. One of the pioneers of nouvelle cuisine, Bocuse creates simple, vibrant, fresh French dishes. His iconic restaurant, l’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, lies in the northern part of Lyon’s urban area. For a more independent exploration of Lyon’s culinary offerings, visit the city’s renowned indoor market. Here at Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, the best merchants of the region offer up everything from chocolates to meat and cheese. And for those visiting the spectacular

DAY TRIPS Just beyond Lyon’s many culinary and cultural offerings lie a tempting array of day trips. The Beaujolais vineyard is under one hour away, and the Alps with Mont Blanc (Europe’s highest peak) are under two hours away. The plethora of options becomes even more appealing for weekend trips. The famous cities of Paris, Marseille, and Nice are all less than two hours away by train, perfect for a long weekend – at least for the visitor who can bear to leave Lyon’s charms for that long. Further Information ONLYLYON Tourism and Conventions Bureau www.en.lyon-france.com MAGAZINE

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Above: the famed vineyards of Meursault (photo © Atelier Muzard); below: art gallery Bartoux exhibits modern art at the Marché aux Vins (photo © Bartoux/Marché aux Vins).

A living wine LIBRARY

IT HAS MAINTAINED A CONVIVIAL VILLAGE-LIKE AMBIANCE, WITH ITS MODEST POPULATION OF 23,000, BUT VINEYARD-FRINGED BEAUNE BOASTS A RICH HISTORIC HERITAGE AND YEAR-ROUND CULTURAL PROGRAMMES. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

ituated between Paris and Geneva in the east of France, 40 kilometres south of Dijon, is the charming and historic city of Beaune (not to be confused with Béarn in the southwest). The 15th century capital of the Duchy of Burgundy lies in the heart of Burgundy’s Pinot Noir country. Among the offerings are wine tours, an excellent light festival, a prestigious baroque music festival and – not to be missed – a crime/ thriller film festival. Combine relaxation and adventure under the heady wafts of the grape.

BEAUNE TO BE CULTURED Let’s start with the cultural fare, which is varied and nonstop. The French music festival season kicks off here with the prestigious International Baroque Music Festival from 8 – 31 July (www.festivalbeaune.com). Highlights include three concerts by Purcell, along with favourite operas by Händel, Rameau and Vivaldi. Rediscover the city by night in a whole new light (literally) during the city’s inspirational Festival of Lights. The church of Notre Dame, Hotel Dieu, the clock tower, chapel of SaintEtienne, Wine Museum, ramparts and more all transform under the art of astoundingly beautiful laser lights. 40

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Take an apéro of Pinot in a medieval wine cellar, which may also help calm the nerves if attending the international crime/thriller festival (www.beaunefestivalpolicier.com).

VISITOR HIGHLIGHT: HOTEL DIEU Once a medieval refuge palace for the poor, this monument with its gothic façade, flamboyant colours and geometrically patterned roof is one of the region’s main tourist attractions. Created in 1443 by the chancellor of the Duke of Bourgogne, after the 100-year war with England, the hospital foundation has been preserved in an exceptional state. It houses a fascinating museum of objects, furniture and decoration from the Middle Ages. It also has its very own vineyard. Only in France! www.hospices-de-beaune.com

Clockwise from top: festival of lights at Beaune’s Hôtel Dieu (photo © M Joly); chef Laurent Peugeot (photo © Arnaud Dauphin); guest room at Bacchus’ Secrets (photo © Bacchus’ Secrets).

HERITAGE WINING AND DINING The Côte de Beaune vineyards, with their unique limestone walls, are listed as UNESCO world heritage. Sip and taste in style with fellow travellers and friendly, wine-savvy locals. You can cycle the vineyard trail through villages such as Meursault, Pommard and PulignyMontrachet. Make sure to snack on the way, so you don’t get too wobbly on your bike! Local products to try are mustard and cassis as well as cheeses, meats and breads. Top restaurants to try include local icon Clos du Cèdre (see below); the refined Loiseau des Vignes (www.bernard-loiseau.com), with its library of fine wines; and The Bistro Bourguignon, a lively bar with fine local wines.

HERE COMES THE NIGHT The five-star Hostellerie Le Cèdre (www. lecedre-beaune.com) is a spectacularly oldworld establishment with just 40 individually styled rooms and suites, refined interiors and a wood-panelled lounge bar with fireplace and piano. The main structure faces onto a wonderful private garden. Don’t miss the restaurant, Clos du Cèdre, famed for its vibrant interpretation of local cuisine. Prefer to sit back and let the experts organise your holiday? Exquisite accommodation and bespoke tours can be booked by Bacchus’ Secrets (www.bacchussecrets.com). You’ll stay

in the medieval village in the Hautes Côtes region and enjoy a service that organised your wine tours, accommodations, michelins starred dining and cooking classes. Time left over on your trip? Digest and build up your next appetite with a game of golf or tennis. Or sink into a well deserved holiday siesta to dream of your next meals, trips and sunny French adventures. Further Information Beaune Tourisme www.beaune-tourism.com

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Above: Outdoor dining in central Dijon (photo © Alain Doire/Bourgogne Tourisme). Below: The pedestrian-friendly Place Darcy (photo © Ville de Dijon).

BEST in class

THE CHARMING CITY OF DIJON OOZES CLASSICAL FRENCH CULTURE, FROM ITS ARTS SCENE, FINE DINING AND THE RECENTLY UNESCO HERITAGE-LISTED VINEYARDS THAT PRESS IN ALL AROUND. BY LIZZIE DAVEY

ince July 2015, the Climats project of Burgundy has listed its vineyards as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The preserved historical sector of Dijon is also a priceless world heritage site. Tucked away between Paris and Lyon, Dijon acts like a portal to the past, where trams reign strong and locals whizz around on bicycles. The laidback lifestyle sets this cultural bastion of France apart from the rest, with its collection of relaxing green spaces, picturesque gardens, and traditional café culture. Dig a little deeper, and you’ll find a city steeped in history – not just a place to kick back with a coffee. The Saint-Bénigne Cathedral towers over cobbled streets, while the Archaeological Museum valiantly conserves remnants of the Gallo-Roman era.

WINNING WINES Elsewhere, wine-loving tourists hit the UNESCO-listed vineyards that sprawl out like gastronomic arms from the city centre and boast world-famous wines, including GevreyChambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, RomanéeConti, Vosne-Romanée, and ChambolleMusigny. These heady heights of prestige languish just 1 kilometre from Dijon, which has been dubbed the Champs-Élysées of Burgundy thanks to its fine selection of tipple. 42

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Since July 2015, the vineyards of the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits have been awarded a long-awaited UNESCO World Heritage status, and exploring their flavours, landscapes, and processes is one of the best ways to discover Dijon. Pairing these wines with the city’s gastronomic delights is a match made in heaven (especially since French cuisine itself has UNESCO intangible world heritage status). Dijon has flourished into a radiant foodie paradise which will see the much-anticipated Cité International de la Gastronomie et du Vin open in 2018 (citedelagastronomie-dijon.fr). This cultural institution will wear its gastronomic heart on its sleeve, showcasing some of the best ingredients and produce from the region. Located on the old site of the historic General Hospital of Dijon, the centre will play host to numerous restaurants, a cinema complex, and an eco-neighbourhood. But it’s the food that’s drawing the most interest, with classics like snails, beef bourguignon, and coq au vin served alongside contemporary international dishes.

ART SMART Culture plays a huge part in Dijon life, with the food and wine only making up a small portion of what’s on offer. In the heart of the city, the museums remember a fascinating past, while cultural events bring the city’s heritage into the present day. The Musée Magnin houses the eclectic collection of Maurice Magnin, which incorporates thousands of paintings, drawings, and furniture from yesteryear. For ancient curiosities, the Musée des Beaux-Arts is the go-to venue. Boasting an assortment of Egyptian

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Clockwise from top: vintage season in the region’s UNESCO heritage-listed vineyards (photo © Dijon Tourism/Atelier Démoulin); Château du Clos de Vougeot (photo © JL Bernuy); local wine (photo © Dijon Tourism/Atelier Démoulin).

art, 18th century pieces, and Burgundian paintings from the 15th century, it’s one of the oldest museums in Dijon, and packs a historic punch – helped by the age-old architecture of the palace it’s set in. Completing the triad of major museums is Le Consortium, which showcases contemporary works and original pieces from acclaimed French and international artists. Apart from its permanent and temporary exhibitions, the museum also offers artist exchange facilities, resources, a multipurpose theatre and more.

SUMMER NIGHTS Bringing together the gastronomic heights of Dijon and its arty undertones is the music festival Garçon la Note (garcon-la-note.com), a summer festival with free concerts on the terraces of the city’s cafés and restaurants. During July and August, the city comes alive with local bands and fresh food – the perfect combination. Together with the wine, art, and food, a trip to Dijon is made complete by a stroll around its stunning scenery. The Burgundy Canals carve a picturesque backdrop, while cycle paths etch through the tree-lined boulevards. There are plenty of top-value tours on offer that take in all of Dijon’s delights and more.

Above: Le Consortium, a bridge between modern and historical art (photo © Consortium).

Further Information Dijon Office de Tourism www.visitdijon.com

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Feast

A dinner in PROVENCE MISSED OUT ON THE GOOD FRANCE FEAST IN 2016? LOOK OUT FOR THIS DELUXE FOOD FEST AGAIN NEXT YEAR, AND EXPERIENCE THE CREATIVITY AND CONVIVIALITY OF FRENCH-STYLE DINING AROUND THE GLOBE.

ood food and fine wines are a hallmark of France, where it’s said that two new cookbooks are published every day. There’s never a shortage of gastronomic inspiration and the vogue for foodie events has stretched from France across the globe. The Good France (or Goût de France) festival, for example, brings together more than 1,500 chefs across five continents to celebrate and share contemporary French cuisine on one special night of the year. Australia held its own particularly delicieuse instalment of the festival on 21 March. Top French (and Francophile) chefs headlined the event and each participating restaurant simultaneously served a specially created French-style menu. Punters could arguably dine French 365 nights of the year if they wanted to. But what’s special about Goût de France is the impassioned generosity of chefs in sharing their culinary skills and treasures with guests. At the Garden Court Restaurant event in Sofitel Sydney Wentworth, for example, 150 guests were treated to delicious wines handsourced from Provence – which would be hard to find here without industry contacts. Diners feasted on five courses of flavoursome seasonal fare that were a treat for all the senses. They included classic French aperitifs and digestifs (G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge, Ricard or Cognac Martell); a spectacular entrée of crab served with avocado, vegetables and citrus; and a main course of tuna steak accompanied by seared duck liver. Dessert was an Easter egg ‘illusion’ – it looked just like an egg in a nest, but was in fact created from chocolate and apricots.

A TOAST TO ESCOFFIER Launched in 2104 by legendary chef and restaurateur, Alain Ducasse, together with Laurent Fabius, former Minister of Foreign Affairs and International Development, Goût de France was inspired by Auguste Escoffier’s Epicurean Dinners, which date back to 1912. These dinners brought together as many diners as possible to enjoy the same menu on the same day in several international locations. The good news for those of us who love French-style flavours, but who won’t be in France in March, is that Ducasse is working with an international committee to make the Goût de France 2017 the biggest and best yet.

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PROVENANCE AND PRIDE Speaking at the event launch, Alain Ducasse said: “French cuisine is first and foremost an entire attitude. Its strength lies in its attention to the products used and the seasons. That is why it is able to adapt to such a range of regions – the resources available vary depending on the place and the season, but the care taken over products and the techniques are the same everywhere…. French cuisine respects the planet and cultural diversity. It is a humanist cuisine.” Menus for 2017 are still under wraps, but diners will be offered a traditional aperitif (champagne or iced cognac), followed by a cold starter, hot starter, fish or shellfish, meat or poultry, a French cheese or cheeseboard, a chocolate dessert and French wines and

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digestifs. Each course will be developed using the best seasonal local produce and will reflect current tastes for healthier eating with lower levels of fat, sugar, salt and protein. Restaurants taking part in Goût de France range from simple bistros to fine dining establishments. All share a passion for high quality, ethical and contemporary French cuisine, with their focus on healthier, sustainable ingredients. Mark your calendar now, and make it a night to remember.

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Clockwise from top: The Atout France team before this year’s event; chefs Boris Cuzon, Xavier Mathieu and Jean Marie Le Rest with Ambassador of France to Australia, Christophe Lecourtier; Wivina Chaneliere from Tefal and Caroline Le Roch from L’Occitane; chef Guillaume Brahimi, who was awarded a French government merit award in 2015 for his contributions to French cuisine, poses with Les Schirato from Vittoria Coffee (photos © Alex Brown).

Further Information Goût de France www.goodfrance.com

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ALL-INCLUSIVE FRANCE RIVER CRUISING For over 30 years, the name Scenic has been synonymous with all-inclusive luxury travel. We’re passionate about offering our guests once-in-a-lifetime river cruising experiences in the most beautiful destinations on Earth. Proudly the only cruise operator to offer longer cruises on every major French river, we give you more time to experience the wonders of this magnificent country. From the stunning vistas of the Saône and Rhône rivers to the elegance of the Seine; our passion for French waterways now also includes the vineyard-strewn, breathtaking Bordeaux region.

Luxury is in the detail You’ll travel on state-of-the-art ships, featuring the largest private balcony suites, fine dining and top-shelf beverages, all on shore excursions, butler service and a host of extraordinary experiences.

We take you to the France you’ve always dreamt of, from the majestic châteaux of the Loire Valley, the lavender scented air of Provence to the wines of Bordeaux. In France, beauty is everywhere, and its reverence for art, history and gastronomy make every day a unique experience.

The Nth Degree When you travel with Scenic you can be confident that we’ll go a degree beyond. Intimate and exclusive guest numbers, bespoke elements on board, local knowledge, flawless service and exclusive access are just the start of your time on board a Scenic river cruise. And the best bit is that it’s all included in the price. Take the Scenic route today.

Visit scenic.com.au for more information or to order your brochure, call 138 128 or visit scenic.com.au/agents for your nearest Scenic Agent *Conditions at scenic.com.au. Scenic ABN 85 002 715 602. SNMA109

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Artist’s impression of the lifelike interior of the new International Cave Art Centre in Montignac, due to open later this year (image © Casson Mann).

Bordeaux-Aquitaine

MAGICAL mystery tour BRILLIANT HISTORIC SITES AND A SMATTERING OF LUXURY STAYS IN THE HEART OF WINE COUNTRY MAKE FOR A COMPELLING STAY IN AQUITAINE, FAMED FOR ITS CAPITAL CITY BORDEAUX AND MUCH MORE. BY SUSAN GOUGH HENLY

rom the red-and-green shuttered houses in the Basque country near the Spanish border to the famed wine châteaux of Bordeaux, and the Palaeolithic cave art sites in the Dordogne, the Aquitaine region in the southwest of France offers a remarkable diversity of cultural attractions. Superb UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites include the city of Bordeaux, the mediaeval hilltop village of Saint Emilion and the cave paintings of the Vézère Valley. There are 250 kilometres of Europe’s best ocean beaches, the

lush green mountains of the Pyrénées and the largest estuary in Europe, surrounded by some of the most famous vineyards in the world. You will also discover ancient walled towns and 16 of the most beautiful villages in France. Along the way you’ll feast on foie gras and black truffles in the Perigord region, oysters from Arcachon Bay, and Jambon de Bayonne and piment d’Espelette from the Basque country, to mention just a few gourmet delicacies.

ART IN THE HINTERLAND The region’s newest attraction this year is the International Cave Art Centre in Montignac, overlooking the site of the original Lascaux cave in the heart of the cave-rich Vézère Valley. The Lascaux Caves are among the world’s most important cave art sites because of the sheer number and quality of their paintings. This stateof-the-art interactive museum, opening by the end of this year, will house a complete replica

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of the original and fragile Lascaux cave using new image and virtual technologies to enable a full immersion in prehistory. Visitors will use digital ‘torches’ that adapt the interpretive material to their age, language and abilities. And while the caves might have been the region’s only accommodation choices back in the day, today’s inns and chambres d’hotes offer many more comforts and an eclectic array of architectural and artistic styles. Outside of Bergerac, the four-star 17th century Château Les Merles is set in its own park with a nine-hole golf course, swimming pool and tennis court. Contemporary rooms sit well in their classical setting, while the restaurant offers innovative seasonal cuisine based around its organic kitchen garden. Château de Maraval near Sarlat sports contemporary interiors inside a 15th century castle located in a tree-filled park, replete with swimming pool. The architect-designed, artfilled Anne Fouquet maison d’hote rests on the flank of a hill near La Roque Gageac, renowned for its Troglodyte cave dwellings. Near the Canal des Deux Mers at Meilhan sur Garonne, the 18th century L’Auberge Meilhannaise features distinctive bedrooms designed by three contemporary artists. Art is served on a plate at the Michelinstarred Restaurant Mariottat, located in an exquisite 19th century mansion in old quarter of the town of Agen. Using the best regional products, Chef Eric Mariottat creates dishes with colour and audacity just like a contemporary painter. And not far from that prehistoric cave art, Le Domaine Perdu is an intriguing contemporary art gallery in an airy wood and stone building in the tiny village of Meyrals.

DESIGN BY THE SEA The Cite de l’Océan, a spectacular waveshaped glass and steel museum behind Milady Beach south of Biarritz, offers interactive and entertaining exhibits on all aspects of the ocean. Twelve fascinating universes reveal all sorts of information about the ocean’s ecosystems, storms and tsunamis, tides and currents as well as how it supplies us with food, transport, energy, water and minerals. There are submarine rides and desalination plants to discover, while characters from history and legends come to life to recount stories about Atlantis, the Bermuda Triangle and the Great Flood. There is even a virtual surf experience, which gives you a visceral feeling of what it is like to surf the big waves on the Basque Coast, regardless of your skill or experience.

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From top: budburst in the Pau district (photo © Pau Pyrénees Tourisme/ D. Guilhamasse); modern and classic art at Château Maraval (photo © Raphaël Melka); the Cité de l’Océan-Biarritz Pays Basque (photo © Alban Gilbert/CRTA).

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There are also some fine designer accommodation offerings all along the Aquitaine coast. The boutique Hotel de Silhouette offers contemporary design interiors in one of the oldest buildings in the grand beach resort of Biarritz, the completely refurbished home of Etienne de Silhouette, who was minister for King Louis XV. Surrounded by a tree-filled garden, the hotel also regularly welcomes performing and visual artists. Nearby in picturesque Bayonne, the French Basque capital and a City of Art and History, Le Poteau Rose bed and breakfast and art gallery is located in a former confectionary workshop. Each of its five duplex rooms is decorated with original artworks and furniture by different 20th century designers such as Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Mies Van der Rohe and Charles Eames. Further north in Les Landes, the bijou contemporary Hotel 202 features lots of terraces

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From top: Evening in Bayonne (photo © Tuvemafoto.com); crowds at Château Monbazillac (photo © B. Dupuy/ CRTA).

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Below: Dune of Pilat in the Bay of Arcachon, standing 110 metres above sea level (photo © Laurent Reiz/CRTA)

overlooking a heated pool and garden in the pretty seaside town of Hossegor, while the allwhite Grand Hotel de La Plage sports spacious balconies right on the beach at Biscarrosse.

ARCACHON AND CAP FERRET

Above: Villa Toledo in Arcachon (photo © Brigitte Bloch/CRTA).

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Just an hour west of Bordeaux, the mystical Arcachon Bay with its sand dunes, wetlands, bird sanctuaries and oyster farms forms the heart of a coastal paradise that is renowned all over France. On one side is the Winter City of Arcachon, whose elaborate villas with their decorative porches, turrets and balconies have been retreats for the wealthy elite since the late 19th century. Between the ocean and the pine forest is the spectacular Dune du Pilat, which at 110 metres is the tallest sand dune in Europe.

The Philippe Starck-designed La Co(o)niche Hotel is right next door, and offers jaw-dropping views of the dune, the swirling sand islets below and the aquamarine waters of the bay as it enters the Atlantic Ocean. On the other side of Arcachon Bay is the chic resort town of Cap Ferret with its bright lighthouse, rustic holiday homes, miles of wild ocean beaches and casual seaside restaurants. Cycle paths in the pine forests link a host of seaside villages along this narrow sandy peninsula. The village of L’Herbe is particularly charming, with its heritage-listed brightly shuttered wooden oyster cultivators’ shacks and simple oyster cafes overlooking the bay. Further Information Aquitaine Tourist Board www.tourism-aquitaine.com

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Bordeaux

City of GRACE

A RIVERSIDE LOCATION, WONDROUS NEOCLASSICAL ARCHITECTURE AND SUBLIME CUISINE ARE JUST A FEW REASONS TO VISIT BORDEAUX, THE HEARTLAND OF FRENCH WINE CULTURE. BY SUSAN GOUGH HENLY

he city of Bordeaux has recently been named number two on the New York Times list of must-visit destinations for 2016, and it is easy to see why. Not only is it the largest urban environment in the world to be honoured as a UNESCO World Heritage site, but the city feels rejuvenated with its riverside parklands, sleek tram system, bike share program, and lively pedestrian-only old quarter.

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Alongside its exquisite blond neoclassical buildings, which positively gleam in the soft southwest light, modern architectural marvels such as La Cité du Vin and the Nouveau Stade de Bordeaux stadium, which will host five matches of the European (soccer) championship, offer a refreshing juxtaposition of styles.

EXQUISITE FOOD AND WINE Food lovers will rejoice that some of Bordeaux’s grandest buildings now house superb restaurants headed by a trio of Michelin-starred chefs. Restaurant Joël Robuchon, located in La Grande Maison Hotel’s elegant 19th century mansion, has just been awarded two Michelin stars after just 10 months of operation. Philippe Etchebest has recently opened Le Quatrième Mur inside the Opera Grand Theatre, and Gordon Ramsay has set up Le Pressoir d’Argent just across the road at the InterContinental

Miroir d’eau fountain, in front of Bordeaux’s Place de la Bourse near the Garonne (photo © Christophe Bouthe).

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ART AND WINE IN THE VINEYARDS

Bordeaux – Le Grand Hotel. For a younger vibe, the bright Philippe Starck-designed budget hotel Mama Shelter in the heart of the old quarter has a terrific rooftop bar.

ROLLING DOWN THE RIVER Bordeaux now fully embraces its location alongside the Garonne River, and has become the ‘in’ destination for cruise ships. The Port de la Lune, where the region’s famous wines were once loaded onto cargo ships, will welcome more than 50 ocean cruise ships in 2016, as well as a bevy of river cruise vessels that offer

week-long itineraries along the Gironde Estuary, the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, with visits to numerous Bordeaux vineyards along the way.

PARTY SHOES ON This June is the 10th edition of the fourday Bordeaux Wine Festival, the leading wine tourism event in all of France. There’ll be a 2-kilometre wine trail along the waterfront for exploring the 80 appellations in Bordeaux and Aquitaine, as well as tasting workshops, food trucks, art exhibitions and evening sound and light shows on the walls of Place de la Bourse.

Bordeaux’s wine châteaux have long held the world in thrall with their exquisite classical architecture yet they are not resting on their laurels. These days some of the biggest wine names have joined forces with some of the world’s most renowned architects to create statement wineries. Sir Norman Foster is responsible for Château Margaux’s new cellars and Jean Nouvel has designed Château La Dominique’s striking red winery and restaurant. Mario Botta has conceived Château Faugere’s wine storage area as a cathedral while I.M. Pei’s new design for Château Lynch-Bages opens later this year. Other châteaux offer art exhibitions and sculpture galleries in the vines. One special art, wine and tasting tour is offered in the Medoc from May to October and includes tastings and visits to the sculpture garden at Château d’Arsac, contemporary art at Château Chasse Spleen, an international art exhibit at Château LynchBages as well as lunch at the two Michelinstarred restaurant Château Cordeillan-Bages. Cost is ₣160 per person; book at the tourism office website (below). Further Information Bordeaux Tourism and Conventions www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk

Clockwise from top: Dusk at Le Pont de Pierre (photo © Steve Le Clech); crowds at Bordeaux Wine Festival (photo © Jean-Michel Destang); wines maturing at Château Lynch Bages in Médoc (photo @ Laurent Reiz/CRTA).

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Bordeaux’s new La Cité du Vin, which was nearing its opening date at time of publication (photo © XTU/ANAKA/La Cité du Vin).

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THE CITY OF BORDEAUX WELCOMES A MAGNIFICENT ALL-NEW CULTURAL SITE, DEDICATED TO THE LIVING HERITAGE OF WINE. BY SUSAN GOUGH HENLY

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ust opened in Bordeaux is the La Cité du Vin, the world’s largest cultural centre dedicated to the living heritage of wine, with a bold curvaceous architecture resembling the swirl of golden wine in a glass. Located beside the Garonne River, this unique cultural site offers immersive multi-sensory experiences that explore the heart and soul of wine, and its influence over civilisations and regions across the millennia. Using personal digital guides, visitors will explore 20 themed areas that engage all five senses as they learn about wine growing and wine-loving civilisations. Highlights include a virtual flight over the world’s vineyards, a boat that travels back in time with wine merchants, a vivid explanation of how grapes metamorphose into wine from harvest to fermentation to

barrel aging and bottling, a five-senses buffet, a table of terroirs where an interactive sculpted vineyard landscape comes to life beneath visitors’ fingers, and a wall of 21st century wine trends. Moving from the virtual to the real, there are tasting sessions, introductory workshops, wine bars and boutiques selling wines from around the world. The restaurant has a panoramic view over the city of Bordeaux and the Garonne River, from where ships have transported wines all over the world for centuries. And for the ultimate wine experience, La Cité du Vin serves as a gateway to the vineyards, as boats depart from its docks to take visitors to wine châteaux all over the Bordeaux region. Further Information La Cité du Vin www.laciteduvin.com

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BIKE AND BARGING

Combine easy to moderate cycling with river, canal or island cruising. Ideal for partners of different abilities, unpack once, come ‘home’ each night to a wonderful meal and a comfortable cabin with your own bathroom.

HOTEL BARGE CANAL CANAL CRUISES CRUISES

Canal or small river cruises. Quality cabins, each with own bathroom. Onboard chef with regional cuisines and wines. Daily coach excursions to vineyards, chateaux, galleries, gardens. Bicycles available onboard.

WALKING HOLIDAYS

Small group guided walks on carefully selected trails, some with pack animals to carry refreshments and picnics. Private chateaux and charming hotels all with pools, all with a passion for regional cuisine and local wines.

AVAILABLE IN FRANCE AND MOST DESTINATIONS IN EUROPE Telephone 1800 331 582 www.outdoortravel.com.au

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Dinner Party

A Parisian life in COURSES THE ULTIMATE POP-UP DINING EXPERIENCE, VOULEZ-VOUS DINER MATCHES LOCAL DINNER PARTY HOSTS WITH GUESTS EAGER TO SAVOUR A DIFFERENT FLAVOUR. IT’S COMING TO AN AUSTRALIAN CITY NEAR YOU. BY ADRIANNE YOUNG.

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Voulez-vous Diner is expanding its exciting dinner party activities of locals hosting visitors. Originally from France, it offers an increasing choice of hosts in Australia (photos © Atout France/Phovoir).

typical visit to Paris elicits a pinprick of yearning to be Parisian. Who can walk under the warmly lit apartment windows of Île Saint-Louis and not wonder what it must feel like to belong in one of them? It’s possible to visit the city a dozen times and never push past the unassuming doors of a light-filled studio where breezy conversation flows over canapés and duck confit. Unless you use a service like Voulez-vous Diner, which pairs local hosts with dinner guests, it’s a world reserved for Parisians. Visitors looking to make the most of their time in Paris can simply log on to Voulez-vous Diner and browse the profiles of the local artists and consummate hosts who’ve opened up their home for private dinners. Each profile includes photos, menus and pricing ($20 to $70). Simply pick an event, and purchase seats online.

Some dinners are mini concerts with a sonata played between courses. Others end with a tour of the neighborhood. Menus are seasonal and offer everything from boeuf Bourguignon to a taste of Venezuela. Just as delicious are the personalities at any given dinner. An entire week in Paris could be spent hopping from table to table, eating, sipping and making friends along the way. And suddenly Parisian life is realised. The Frenchy dinner party concept extends to several other countries including Australia, with hosts active in Canberra, Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. A campaign, The French Ambassadors, is launching soon to increase the number of hosts. Further Information Voulez-vous Diner www.voulezvousdiner.com/en/places

SETTING THE STANDARD, YET AGAIN.

OAKED CHARDONNAY

RIESLING CHAMPAGNE WINE GLASS

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Feast

French TWIST

FAST APPROACHING ITS 30TH ANNIVERSARY, LE BRISTOL’S ESTEEMED EPICURE RESTAURANT IS AN ENDEARING HOMAGE TO FRENCH STYLE AND CUISINE. BY SUSAN GOUGH HENLY

n the heart of the fashion district of Faubourg Saint-Honoré, across from the official residence of the President of the French Republic, the five-star Palace Hotel Bristol exudes the very essence of French elegance. This family-owned hotel may be grand, but it is not stuffy. Two beautiful Burmese cats, Fa-Raon and Kléopatre, are the official welcoming committee and always enjoy a gentle stroke wherever you may find them. We walk through the spacious flower-filled lobby to be welcomed warmly at Eric Frechon’s three Michelin-star restaurant, Epicure. It is named for Epicurus, the Greek philosopher who believed that pleasure without excess is the surest path to happiness and wisdom. The light and airy dining room opens out through French doors to Le Bristol’s fragrant courtyard garden, with its towering magnolia trees. Floor-length floral curtains and bowls of 60

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fresh flowers bring the garden inside, as do the crystal butterflies that are found on each table. Ivy engraved on the Christofle silver cutlery and hand-blown wine glasses further evoke the organic theme. But the raison d’être of the restaurant comes from the humble man from Normandy who has been head chef here since 1998. Since starting his career at 15 at the Ecole Hoteliere de Rouen, Eric Frechon has trained at some of the finest restaurants in Paris including Taillevent and Le Crillon, and was made knight of the Legion of Honour in 2008. He hasn’t forgotten his roots, however, saying simply, “My grandfather grew vegetables, my father sold them, and I cook them.” A meal at a three Michelin-star restaurant is both a theatrical event and an ode to all five senses. At Epicure this is filtered through the prism of a quintessential French immersion. The experience is neither formal nor rigid

but filled with joie de vivre, as each of the sublimely professional waiters also jokes with the guests who are here to have a wonderful time. The sommelier offers a glass of champagne with our amuse-bouches, one even shaped like a delicate daffodil on a stalk. He mentions that the owner of the champagne house is dining with companions at the restaurant today. Later, I notice a very obedient terrier sitting beside their table with its own bowl. We choose the tasting menu and what follows is a symphony of exquisite tableaux served on the finest porcelain, each one remarkable in its design, colours, flavours and textures. The sommelier recommends a beautiful complex Chardonnay from Meursault in Burgundy to accompany the seafood courses, and a fine vintage from Pauillac in Bordeaux for the lamb and exquisite cheese course. He tells me that their cellar has 35,000 bottles.

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Caviar, left, and Carpaccio de SaintJacques, right, on the menu at Epicure at Le Bristol.

Opposite left: Chef Eric Frechon (photo © Jean-Claude Amiel); below right: terrace restaurant setting at Le Bristol.

Every single dish is superb but two are revelations: the finest crayfish from Brittany, infused with celery and caviar and served in a creamy sauce with yuzu juice which has a tart citrus tang. There’s also a saddle of milk-fed lamb in a seaweed crust with Espelette pepper, served together with fresh herb gnocchi in a kohlrabi puree. “If, years later, every guest can still remember one of my dishes, my goal has been achieved,” says Frechon. Authentic and refined, Frechon’s cooking is truly unforgettable. And the whole experience at Epicure offers guests a moment of grace around the table. Further Information Epicure at Le Bristol Paris www.lebristolparis.com MAGAZINE

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Provence

Stroke of GENIUS

Above: The resort offers two 18-hole championship courses; right: Terre Blanche’s specialist golf-ball massage. All photos ©Terre Blanche

LUXURY DIGS AND AWARD-WINNING GOLF COURSES ARE JUST TWO HIGHLIGHTS OF THE DIVINE TERRE BLANCHE HOTEL SPA GOLF RESORT; GOURMET DINING, SENSATIONAL SPAS AND NONSTOP KIDS’ ACTIVITIES ROUND OUT THE PICTURE. BY LIZZIE DAVEY

CHAMPIONSHIP COURSES

ush hills, the twinkle of the Med, and a patchwork landscape of farms, vineyards, and grand châteaux come together to paint a picture of Provence that’s inspired everyone from princes to paupers. Entrepreneur and golfer Dietmar Hopp was one willing victim of Provence’s charm. After falling hard and fast for the unique scenery, he envisioned a space that built on his love of golf and his awe at the rustic region. Today, that dream has become a reality at Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort. 62

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In fact, the founder’s original vision for this site has been imagined in every way possible. Earlier this year, Terre Blanche’s championship golf course, Le Château, swooped in to take 13th place in Golf World UK’s ‘Top 100 Courses in Continental Europe’. Together with a collection of impressive water features and a paradise backdrop of Provençal scenes, Le Château is a fine venue where the French Riviera Masters are held each year. Terre Blanche’s other championship course, Le Riou, proves to be a popular stomping ground for the more experienced golfer. Effortlessly blended in with the painterly layers of Provence,

the steep fairways and expansive greens are a spectacular haunt for golfers, both amateur and advanced.

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SPECIALIST SPAS It’s not just golf that Terre Blanche rocks, though. In April 2015, it was awarded ‘France’s Best Luxury Resort Spa’ at the 2015 Luxury Awards. Using this incredible accolade as a springboard, Terre Blanche has released a compendium of new treatments to ease and squeeze aching muscles and joints. Set among 300 hectares of rolling French countryside, the spa offers all the usual culprits, like antiageing programmes, beauty care, dermocosmetic techniques, and a new package that complements a 30-minute massage with a glass of champagne and a quintessentially French lunch in the tea lounge. But it’s the Albatros Terre Blanche Signature Massage which has been causing quite a stir this year. Playing on its golfing persona, the massage uses the dimpled surface of golf balls to release pressure and loosen muscles with advanced kneading techniques.

OUT AND ABOUT Undoubtedly, guests will want to get out and explore the rich variety of attractions in the region. Offering a menu of cultural day trips to tuck into, Terre Blanche encourages its guests

Provençal guest facilities and rambling garden.

to explore nearby Provencal markets, authentic villages, museums, and picturesque vineyards. And, for the adventure seekers, there’s a selection of action-packed cycling escapades that expose the golden fields and emerald woodlands from a different perspective. There are a number of trails, from leisurely pedals through nearby towns to adrenalin-pumping routes on mountain bikes. For many, the draw of Provence’s painted

landscape is more than enough, but the elegant grounds of Terre Blanche keep on giving. With luxury accommodation, an endless catalogue of activities, and a beautiful backdrop to boot, Terre Blanche makes for the perfect getaway. Further Information Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort en.terre-blanche.com

The glamorous spa offers a pool, golf-inspired massage, anti-ageing treatments and more. MAGAZINE

Go to France before you go to France. www.france.fr

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Four Seasons Hotel George V SIGNATURE dish AWARD-WINNING MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE IS ON THE MENU AT LE GEORGE, THE GLAMOROUS NEW DINING DESTINATION AT THE FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GEORGE V IN PARIS. BY DANIELLE BRICKER

Top and below: dining room (photo © Grégoire Gardette) and cuisine at Le George (photo © Bernhard Winkelmann). Centre: chef Marco Garfagnini of Le George (photo © Eddy Briere).

ond of being on the cutting edge of the fine dining universe? Then be first among your friends to tastetest the newly opened Le George restaurant, at the Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris. This palace hotel, nestled in the City of Light’s 8th Arrondissement, just off the beautiful Champs-Élysées, is a true work of art, filled with stunning paintings, tapestries, and objets d’art. The luxe interior design is the work of famous French designer Pierre Yves-Rochon. Of course, a top-notch setting deserves a top-notch staff. The expert staff at Four Seasons Hotel George V, including a multilingual concierge, is always at the ready to help you experience Paris like a local. Now, joining its glamorous slate of amenities, is Le George. Trained in Paris and London among others, chef Marco Garfagnini hails from Tuscany and has won countless awards for his carefully honed craft. His greatest inspiration is the sea, and at Le George, which opened in 2015, he blends the world-famous cuisines of southern France and his native Italy for a sensational Mediterranean menu. A plate of freshly made pasta will whisk you away to the rolling hills of Tuscany, while savoury seafood dishes like lobster risotto and pan-fried sea bass in clam juice evoke images of the glittering French Riviera. If you’re travelling with a group, take advantage of the menu’s half portions, designed specifically to encourage sharing. Meanwhile, fans of fine dining restaurant Le Cinq – headed by the inimitable chef Christian Le S q uer – wi l l b e pleas ed to know it’s just won its third Michelin star. Both choices make for an interactive, five-star dining experience you won’t forget. Further Information Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris www.fourseasons.com/fr/paris

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Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;art du champagne since 1836.

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Glimpses of Paris from a suite with marble bath.

Le Meurice

Sculpture from the Meurice prize for contemporary art in the lobby (photo © Huper-International Presse).

ARTISTIC impressions

APART FROM ITS DESERVED FAME AS BEING FOUNDED IN 1835 AS PARIS’ FIRST PALACE HOTEL, LE MEURICE HAS LONG HOSTED ARTISTS INCLUDING SURREALIST SALVADOR DALÍ. IT NOW DISPLAYS A HOST OF ARTWORKS IN HIS NAME.

erhaps he was attracted by the hotel’s fantastical regality; perhaps it was the fine service that made him a regular guest for over three decades. In either case, the creative partnership between Salvador Dalí and Le Meurice is legendary, given the artistic outputs it has prompted. Dalí dressed in an aristocratic silk waistcoat or ermine cape; rode a chopper motorcycle on the 18th century rug of his living room; held editorial meetings in his suite and posed with the likes of Grace Kelly. So when Philippe Starck was invited to overhaul the hotel’s public areas in 2007, he found inspiration at every turn. He transformed many of Dalí’s original sketches and paintings into art furnishings such as the Leda Chair and Shoes Table, all on display throughout the hotel. No wonder the hotel named its contemporary restaurant after Dalí. Le Meurice has been the favourite stay for many other creatives over the years (including Picasso, Chanel and Kipling) and is an active

patron of the arts; its annual Meurice Prize for contemporary art is now in its ninth edition. Each autumn, during the FIAC International Contemporary Art Fair, the finalists’ artworks are exhibited in the hotel’s public areas. Art aside, the hotel is renowned for its impeccable service, Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse restaurants, glamorous spa, and 160 elegant rooms and suites. In each, classical French styling and Italian marble bathrooms are paired with slick modern comforts. Many suites offer 180-degree views over Paris, including the Eiffel Tower, while the incomparable Belle Etoile penthouse suite has an extraordinary 360-degree view over the city. Its 250-square-metre private terrace lays the sights of Paris at your feet.

High glamour at Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse (photo © Pierre Monetta).

Further Information Le Meurice 228 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France Info.LMP@dorchestercollection.com www.dorchestercollection.com/en/paris/ le-meurice/ MAGAZINE

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Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme Private RETREAT

A GRAND-DAME STUNNER FROM THE OUTSIDE AND CONTEMPORARY HAVEN WITHIN, THE PARK HYATT PARISVENDÔME ENSURES AN EMINENTLY PARISIAN STAY FOR DISCERNING GUESTS.

ntimately proportioned and cleverly conceived, the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme lies behind a discreet façade on rue de la Paix. It’s hard to imagine a more quintessentially Parisian location, with the Place Vendôme, Paris Opera and rue Faubourg SaintHonoré just moments away from this gracious establishment. Throughout, celebrated American architect Ed Tuttle – a resident of Paris since 1977 – has infused an ambience of chic neoclassicism, blending styles such as Louis XVI and Art Deco, with materials such as mahogany and marble. The hotel opened in 2000 after a masterful refurbishment of several Second Empire buildings – one of which housed the House of Paquin, among other couture labels. Since then, it has garnered a loyal following from connoisseurs of fine styling and discreet service. Diplomats, celebrities, writers and European royalty are all regulars at this 153-room establishment, drawn equally by the Tuttle-designed suites as by its art collection and fine dining. The latter includes the darkly elegant Le Bar, and day-into-night restaurant-lounge Les Orchidées, with its classical styling and choice of two courtyards. Serious gourmets will want to head to Le Pur’, where the simple and elegant culinary concept by respected Jean-François Rouquette won the restaurant a Michelin star in 2011. For additional pampering, Le Spa offers 24hour gym, sauna and beauty treatments featuring Crème de la Mer products; and for business guests, the hotel has seven superb function rooms. Discreet yet attentive service, and state-of-the-art technology in every room, go without saying.

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Gracious proportions around the entrance façade, within walking distance of the Place Vendôme, Paris Opera and other iconic landmarks (photos © Park Hyatt).

Further Information Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme paris.vendome.hyatt.com

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Travel

Blue Chip RESIDENCE WITH EXPERIENTIAL TRAVEL STILL A TOP PRIORITY FOR GLOBETROTTERS IN 2016, THE HOTEL IS WAY MORE THAN A PLACE TO LAY YOUR HAT. THESE HOTELS REPRESENT THE LAST WORD IN TRAVEL NIRVANA. BY GRETCHEN HOLM

his year, travellers are approaching their trips with a growing awareness that quality is wellworth its price. Depth and richness of experience are more important than ever, as travellers seek out the best of what the world has to offer.

SOFITEL PARIS LE FAUBOURG

SOFITEL PARIS LE FAUBOURG 15, rue Boissy d’Anglas, 75008 Paris www.sofitel-paris-lefaubourg.com

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The Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg stands out as a perfect example of the trend in experiential travel. Staying here is the experience of a lifetime – precisely what travellers are looking for in their desire to shift away from budget trips. Every part of the hotel combines traditional elegance with modern chic for a result that’s worthy of its location in fashionable Paris. This is most immediately clear in the décor by renowned designer Didier Gomez. At once elegant and playful, shades of yellow stand out against a more sedate background of black, white and grey. Throughout the hotel, Gomez has used variations on this theme, ranging from shimmering gold accents to splashes of bright yellow, for different effects while maintaining a cohesive whole. This style carries into the hotel’s restaurant, STAY Faubourg, where even the food combines elegant tradition with modern innovation. The Library lounge is one of the most distinctive parts of the hotel. Art and culture books line the walls, offering a tantalising selection to browse while you sip cocktails. The 111 rooms and 36 suites tend to be more subdued in colour, with an emphasis on peaceful relaxation. Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg is within walking distance of many of Paris’ most famous attractions, including the Louvre, the Seine, the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, and the Place de la Concorde.

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THE CREST COLLECTION Left: Classically Parisian colours in the bedrooms, lounge and foyer (photo © Sofitel).

This page: The exterior, guest rooms and breakfast areas of Crest Collection suites epitomise the gracious style of a classic Paris apartment (photo © Fabrice Rambert).

www.crestcollectionbyascott.com

THE CREST COLLECTION BY THE ASCOTT LIMITED, PARIS At La Clef Louvre Paris and La Clef Tour Eiffel Paris, travellers will find a selection of peaceful serviced residences right in the bustle of the city. Both are positioned to enjoy the best of what Paris has to offer, with the Louvre location standing less than a five-minute walk from the famous museum itself, and the Eiffel Tower location just across the Seine from the eponymous landmark. In fact, this location’s Suite Tour Eiffel even overlooks the world-famous tower. One of the most important aspects of any Paris stay is the staff, and here these locations truly shine. The staff at both guest apartments are warm, engaging and friendly, and eager to assist guests in having the most memorable stay possible. La Clef Louvre Paris offers the full array of complimentary amenities you

would expect from a serviced apartment of this calibre, including a fully equipped kitchen and a home entertainment system in each suite. Visitors can splurge on a range of five-star services for an even more memorable stay, such as limousine service or a babysitter. The rooms here are designed with understated – but unmistakable – elegance. With its residents’ lounge and completely non-smoking property, La Clef Tour Eiffel Paris is devoted to providing an elegant sanctuary for its visitors. Chic, modern styling pervades the rooms and apartments here, masterfully blending contemporary trends with timeless elegance.

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Dramatic styling and magnificent Renaissance architectural features at Cour de Loges Lyon (photo © MH Sibuet).

COUR DES LOGES LYON Lyon is renowned throughout the world for its culinary offerings, and Cour des Loges Lyon rises to the challenge of living up to expectations in that regard. While it is primarily a hotel, its Michelinstarred restaurant Les Loges boasts world-class dishes that change with the seasons. Offerings have included, for example, Mediterranean shrimp with lemon confit, and pigeon with spiced fruit. Each plate is also a visually stunning work of art, revealing the care to detail that goes into all aspects of a stay here. The Café-Epicerie is just as tantalising both in its food and design, and is well worth a visit for Sunday brunch. The experience of staying here is no less remarkable than that of eating here. Even before a visitor arrives, concierges are available to make the stay truly unforgettable by catering to each traveller’s individual needs.

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Each of the rooms here is different, its décor both distinctive and adhering to a theme of traditional elegance, masterfully blended with contemporary comforts and style. The junior suites are particularly remarkable in their unique design; artist Hervé Thibaut has made each radically different from the next without ever sacrificing taste or style. A hidden gem at Cour des Loges is its hanging gardens. Here, visitors can enjoy a sense of seclusion even in the midst of the city, in the carefully designed and meticulously maintained slice of idealised nature.

COUR DES LOGES LYON A member of Maison & Hotels Sibuet 6, rue du Bœuf, 69005 Lyon en.courdesloges.com

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Fit for a king (and his empress), the Hotel du Palais Biarritz combines classic styling with contemporary comforts (photo © Hotel du Palais Biarritz).

HOTEL DU PALAIS BIARRITZ Built in the mid 1800s as a summer mansion for Empress Eugénie and Napoleon III, and situated mere steps from the Bay of Biscay, the Hotel du Palais Biarritz continues to offer style and luxury worthy of royalty. It draws on its rich history as design inspiration for its 120 rooms and 30 suites, with some boasting Second Empire style while others reach back all the way to grand siècle aesthetics. Still others are more contemporary in design, while never sacrificing the attention to luxurious quality often associated with earlier times. In fact, the level of dedication to quality and authenticity is so high that the hotel has its own workshops to renovate and restore its rooms and furniture.

While the décor inspiration may span the ages of France’s history, the rest of Hotel du Palais Biarritz is modern and up-to-date. Michelin-starred restaurant Villa Eugénie serves gourmet food that showcases the finest fresh, local ingredients in dishes that are innovative without ever falling into the trap of creativity simply for its own sake. Lunch brasserie Hippocampe offers bay views just as stunning as its food, combining gastronomic pleasure with that most fundamental of vacation experiences: gazing out over the water and listening to its waves. Its Basque Country location means that Biarritz can offer experiences not found in much of the rest of France. From distinctive delicacies to the nearby Musée Basque, the area offers the opportunity to intimately explore this fascinating and unique culture.

HOTEL DU PALAIS BIARRITZ 1 Avenue de l’Impératrice, 64200 Biarritz www.hotel-du-palais.com

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DOMAINE DES PEYRE 1620 route d’Avignon, 84440 Robion www.domainedespeyre.com From above: Southern French styling and contemporary art at the entrance; sculpture in the vineyards; the establishment’s original wine label.

DOMAINE DES PEYRE AVIGNON Domaine des Peyre Avignon is all about quality rather than quantity, with just a handful of luxury gîtes on offer rather than dozens of hotel rooms. This narrower focus allows for incredible attention to detail and an unforgettable experience. Visitors have the luxury of staying amid acres of vineyards that offer breathtaking views and a tranquil experience. In keeping with the relaxation offered by its setting, Domaine des Peyre Avignon provides an infinity swimming pool and access to its library, making it the ideal choice for travellers looking for a luxurious, calm escape. Each of the gîtes is done up in its own distinctive décor while holding to the overall design theme. Traditional Provençal style blends with contemporary trends including

industrial metal to create an innovative and sometimes surprising – but consistently successful – look all of its own. The commitment to design and the arts extends even to an art gallery, headed by Richard Nicolet, on the premises. As the estate has its own vineyard, it should come as no surprise that it also offers a wine-tasting cellar featuring wines made from the vineyards surrounding the gîtes. Visitors are welcome not only to simply taste wines, but also to learn about them in depth. For those whose trips lean more toward business than pleasure, the meeting rooms available deftly reveal that business meetings don’t need to be held in bland, boring offices. Instead, the innovative yet comfortable design sense of the rest of the estate permeates the meeting rooms as well.

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Spectator

he sight of Cadel Evans conquering the mountain stages of the 2011 Tour de France will live long in my memory, and not just for his remarkable stamina and skills. What makes the race so special is that it introduces so many spectacular destinations across France. As yet another Tour prepares to launch later this month, I’ve been thinking about some of my favourite cycles, stays and memories along the route. Let’s start in Paris. Which memorable trip

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Tour de PASSION

FOR SIMON MCGRATH, CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER PACIFIC OF ACCORHOTELS, EVERY VISIT TO FRANCE IS AN INSPIRATION – BUT THREE SPECIAL STAYS LINGER IN HIS MEMORY.

to France doesn’t begin or end there? Not least the Tour, which ends in a spectacular sprint down the Champs-Élysées. Art, food, style and copious amounts of joie de vivre are inseparable to Paris. For a fine stay, the Hotel Baltimore exudes the passion which I find present in every aspect of the city – and French life itself. The Baltimore is part of our distinctive MGallery collection (www. mgallery.com), and is the perfect base to soak up Parisian history and style. The hotel was developed from a magnificent 19th century townhouse, and takes its name from its famous first guest – Lord Baltimore. Period furnishings, sculptures and original paintings combine with warm contemporary materials in a way that’s inimitably French. And if the spirit of Paris is captured inside the hotel, the icons of Paris – like the Arc de Triomphe, Champs-Élysées, Trocadero and Eiffel Tower – are waiting outside, mere blocks away. When most people think of passion and the French, they might think of art and, of course, cuisine. One of the most amazing places I’ve experienced French gastronomy is Lyon – not perhaps that well known to Australians, but an international foodie hub in its own right. I recommend you book into a class at the Paul Bocuse cooking school there (www.

institutpaulbocuse.com). I was involved in a one-day course, but there are longer courses which allow you to become fully immersed in Bocuse’s universe of gastronomy, whether you are a professional chef or just an enthusiastic amateur. Spend two or three nights in Lyon, and you’ll be able to mix visits to Bocuse’s celebrated three-star Michelin restaurant with meals at the city’s evocative bouchons (brasseries), which provide fantastic cuisine in very atmospheric venues. Many are redolent in Lyon’s rich history, which dates back to ancient Roman times. There is a superb array of art and culture throughout Lyon. Spend a morning or afternoon on rue Burdeau, which is home to art galleries specialising in painting, sculpture and cutting edge photography. For hotels, I would recommend two very atmospheric and historic MGallery hotels, Hotel Carlton, which dates back to the 19th century and was fully renovated in 2013, and the Hotel Le Royal Lyon, which is like staying in a beautiful boutique guesthouse. One of the highlights of staying at MGallery hotels is their ‘Memorable Moment’ offer. For instance, the Hotel Carlton offers a personalised

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Left: Façade of the very grand Hotel Baltimore, Paris (photo © Jacques-Yves Gucia).

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Top: Tour de France participants cross in front of the Mont Saint-Michel (photo © Montey); below: the magical Musée Christian Dior in Granville (photo © Emilie Ursule).

half-day tour of Lyon in which the hotel’s guide, Domitille, unveils the historical and cultural gems that have earned the city its status as a UNESCO world heritage site. Of course, I’ll also be watching the Tour as it traverses another region known for its landscape, history and gastronomy – Normandy. Whether you are visiting Normandy to discover its recently revamped UNESCO heritage icon, Mont Saint-Michel, or plan to see the massive Festival Impressionisme this northern fall, try a stay at Mercure Mont St Michel or Mercure Granville Le Grand Large Hotel (www. mercure.com). Here, the cliffside location offers spectacular views of the Chausey Islands and Granville Lighthouse. And if you are travelling anywhere else within France, try exploring the Mercure options first when it comes to stays. They generally capture the flavour of the region, especially with their restaurants, wines and decorations. Bon voyage. AccorHotels offers over 1,000 hotels across France, including premium brands such as Sofitel, Pullman, MGallery, Novotel, Mercure and ibis. www.accorhotels.com or 1300 656 565 MAGAZINE

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From top: Guest pool overlooking the romantic gardens; luxury suites with antique and contemporary styling; art objects in the guest areas.

A fine ROMANCE OFFERING JUST SIX IMPECCABLY RESTORED MEDIEVAL COTTAGES, SET IN SUN-DRENCHED GARDENS AND WITH EVERY COMFORT CATERED TO, DOMAINE DE MONTEILS IS A SOUTHERN FRENCH RETREAT LIKE NO OTHER. BY CORALIE GIRAUDET

estled deep in the south of France, Domaine de Monteils is an oasis of tranquillity and privacy. There, lulled by the cricket songs, the smell of lavender and the grand scenery of the Languedoc region, you will enjoy a top of the range escape and endless private spa sessions in this couples-only retreat. Set in a ninth century priory surrounded by vineyards, Domaine de Monteils is not only the ideal honeymoon getaway, it’s also a strategic location from which to explore the surrounding marvels of the south of France. Popular day trips include no less than four UNESCO world heritage sites – such as Carcassonne and Nîmes – along with the cities of Montpellier, Uzès and the world-famous Avignon and its festival. The national park of the Cévennes will delight nature lovers. To the south, the sunny

Mediterranean coast awaits with its warm waters, gold sand beaches and olive groves. The Camargue National Park is of course the must-see of the region, a magical waterworld through which wild horses run and pink flamingos fly freely. Each evening, Frederic and Richard, your hosts at the Domaine de Monteils, welcome you back with their attentive service, often devoting much time to recommending other incredible things to see and places to dine in the region. You’re then left to enjoy your intimate terrace with a private jacuzzi, or the luxurious surrounds of your stone cottages, replete with such comforts as a fully equipped kitchen, Wi-Fi, flat screen TVs and king size beds. You might never want to leave. Further information Domaine de Monteils www.domaine-monteils.com 78

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Northern France

SURF and turf

Above: kite-surfing and sail-boarding on Northern France’s spectacular Côte d’Opale (photo © Eric Desaunois).

JUST 100 YEARS AGO, NORTHERN FRANCE WITNESSED SOME OF WORLD WAR ONE’S MOST BRUTAL BATTLES. TODAY, THE FRUITS OF ITS HARD-WON PEACE MAKE FOR A POIGNANT AND MEMORABLE VISIT. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

he northern part of France is a region shaped by its history, and by the sea. Its natural beauty was the backdrop to some of the most harrowing battles of World War One, but now it is the tranquil starting point for journeys of remembrance, cultural discovery, and moments of quiet reflection.

JOURNEYS IN TIME Four poignant commemorative trails lead pilgrims to the battlefields, allowing them to follow in the footsteps of their ancestors, and 80

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ensuring the final journeys of the servicemen and women who walked this way will never be forgotten. The Australian Remembrance Trail (www. ww1westernfront.gov.au) along the Western Front remembers the sacrifice of the 295,000 Australians who served in the Australian Imperial Force (AIF) in France and Belgium between 1916 and 1918. The trail highlights 12 unique sites to help visitors explore the darkest days of World War One, nine of them dotted between the neighbouring regions of Northern France and Somme (see separate story, over).

MUSEUM OF THE BATTLE OF FROMELLES To the west of Lille, and close to all the major remembrance sites, is the Museum of the Battle of Fromelles (www.musee-bataillefromelles.fr). Archaeological finds excavated at

Above: shopping in Vieux Lille, the town’s historic centre (photo © X Alphand).

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Fromelles’ Pheasant Wood have been matched with the DNA samples of soldiers who fell during the battle on the 19th and 20th July 1916 and lay now in the new cemetery there, creating a haunting collection of stories. This is currently the only museum of its kind on the Western Front, and the exhibitions are growing as the identity of more and more soldiers is restored, each victim a unique character in the history of this place. The museum visit is best combined with a self-guided battlefield tour on foot.

JEAN AND DENISE LETAILLE MUSEUM

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bottomed boat. Arras was on the frontline throughout the war, and the Artois area includes the Wellington Quarry, the French National Necropolis of Notre-Dame de Lorette, and the Ring of Remembrance. Elsewhere in in the region, visitors can take guided tours of Old Lille or the magnificent squares of Arras. Paris’ Louvre museum recently

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opened an outpost, the Louvre-Lens, in Lens, where visitors can discover priceless pieces from the Louvre archive in the contemporary Time Gallery. Further Information Northern France Regional Tourism Board www.northernfrance-tourism.com www.remembrancetrails-northernfrance.com

Below left: Time Gallery at the Musée du LouvreLens (photo © Musée du Louvre-Lens); the Cobber of Fromelles statue (photo © A S Flament).

At Bullecourt, close to Arras, the Jean and Denise Letaille Museum tells the stories of the Australian soldiers who fought here in April and May 1917, and who are commemorated with the statue of the Bullecourt Digger. Opened in 2012, the touching displays of everyday objects – cigarette cases and razers, helmets and cooking pots – have been assembled from artefacts found in local fields by farmers Jean and Denise Letaille. They show a very personal side to the tragedy, a war fought by ordinary Australians, and with scant preparation or equipment. Around Arras you’ll also find memorials to the forces of Britain, New Zealand, and Canada.

BEYOND THE BATTLEFIELDS Back from the battlefields and memorials, the waves of the English Channel roll onto the beaches of the Opal Coast and Picardy, a reminder of the power of nature to wash away human pain. Go walking, sand-yachting or kite surfing on the endless beaches, or head inland to the gentler rivers or canals, many of them conducive to gentle journeys via flatMAGAZINE

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Above: Dawn at Villers-Bretonneux (photo © Fabien Milhaud).

Somme

TALES from the trenches NEW MUSEUMS AND AUSTRALIAN REMEMBRANCE SITE RESTORATIONS MAKE THE SOMME A COMPELLING DESTINATION DURING THE CENTENARY OF WORLD WAR ONE, ALONG WITH A SMATTERING OF FOOD AND ARTS ATTRACTIONS. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

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o battleground has burned its indelible mark on our collective memory like the Somme, where more than a million men – 23,000 of them Australians – were wounded or killed. Australians fought through the darkest days of 1916, including at the Battle of Pozières Ridge, Villers-Bretonneux, Le Hamel, and the Somme.

SITES OF SACRIFICE The Somme region of northern France is filled with memorials to the fallen, and museums to ensure that the visitors of today do not forget their sacrifice. ANZAC forces fought hard at Pozières. More Australian troops fell at Pozières than on any other WWI battlefield; some divisions lost one-third of their men. Here today you will find the Memorials to the 1st and 2nd Australian Division, the traces of the Gibraltar blockhouse, the Tank Memorial with its scale model tanks, and the site of the Windmill, captured by Australian troops on August 4, 1916.

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Above: Chef, author and TV presenter Gabriel Gaté, a staunch fan of Somme produce and cuisine (photo © Peter Warren). Above right: Memorial at Pozieres (photo © Somme Tourisme);

At Villers-Bretonneux, 1,200 soldiers from the First Australian Imperial Force lost their lives recapturing the town. Over 770 Australians lie buried in the cemetery by the Australian National Memorial, inaugurated in 1938. Behind the monument, the Sir John Monash Centre will open in April 2018 to commemorate the centenary of the battle. Also, in the town centre, the FrancoAustralian Museum is being extensively renovated but you can still visit this year. Australians will also be interested in visiting Le Hamel, particularly the park remembering the battle of Le Hamel, during which 1,000 Australian soldiers fell; and medieval Péronne, which houses the Museum of the Great War in its château, and the new interpretative trail of Mont Saint-Quentin. In Vignacourt, a multinational casualty clearing station throughout the Battle of the Somme, a new museum in a restored farmhouse will shortly

open too, a fitting memorial and display space for 4,000 archive photos from the war..

STAYS AND FLAVOURS To make your visit to the Somme as fulfilling and memorable as possible, the Somme Tourist Board has created a partner network of tourism professionals, from hoteliers and restaurateurs to licensed guides. These ‘Somme Battlefields Partners’ will help you get more from your stay, introducing you to local culture and World War One history. Celebrity chefs such Gabriel Gaté, presenter of Taste Le Tour, are deeply familiar with the region’s flavours. Says Gaté: “A favourite moment for me is a visit to the great Saturday morning farmers’ market along the large flowerlined canal. Many of the top-quality vegetables and herbs available are grown nearby in the unique, colourful patchwork of marshland market gardens called Les Hortillonnages.”

EVENTS TO BOOKMARK 2016 marks the 100th anniversary of some of the most harrowing events of WWI, many of which will be commemorated in the Somme and neighbouring regions. Consider scheduling your visit to coincide with ANZAC Day in VillersBretonneux (25th April), or the Centenaries of the Battle of the Somme (1st July), Battle of Fromelles (19th July) or the Battle of Pozières (23rd July). These emotional occasions will bring together descendants, veterans, dignitaries, and many more visitors determined not to forget. Go with them to learn, and to show your respect. Further Information Somme Tourisme www.visit-somme.com www.somme-battlefields.com www.anzac-france.com

Above: the Franco-Australian Museum, undergoing renovation but still open to visitors (photo © AST+TAZK+DOBLE A). MAGAZINE

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Above: mist over Tyne Cot Cemetary (photo ÂŠ Flanders Fields); below: the Seabrook brothers from Australia, all three of whom fought at Passchendaele.

Heritage & History

All QUIET on the Western front

JUST OVER THE FRENCH BORDER, FLANDERS FIELDS IN BELGIUM OFFERS A RANGE OF EVENTS AND PERMANENT EXHIBITS THAT COMMEMORATE THE SACRIFICES OF WORLD WAR ONE. THE TRANQUIL COUNTRYSIDE AND WELCOMING PEOPLE ARE SURE TO KEEP YOU THERE LONGER.

asschendaele. A tiny town in Flanders in North-West Belgium that sadly became a household name in Australia and New Zealand for all the wrong reasons. The Anzacs first saw action in Belgium in WW1 in the Battle of Messines on 7 June 1917; a prelude to the Battle of Passchendaele. The conflict was heralded by the explosion of deep underground mines placed strategically by the Allies (including the Australian Tunnelling Division) under German lines. The battle was regarded as a tactical success, with the New Zealand Division, flanked by the Australian 4th Division, successfully capturing the town of Messines within a matter of hours. 84

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Unfortunately, the success of Messines did not extend to the Battle of Passchendaele. Also known as the Third Battle of Ypres, it began on 31 July 2017 and continued for over three months. Intense fighting took place in horrendous conditions, made up of a series of engagements, with Australian troops in action in Menin Road, Polygon Wood, Broodseinde and Poelcappelle. After 100 days of fighting and achieving an advance of just 8 kilometres, the Canadians finally captured the village of Passchendaele on 6 November. During the Battle of Passchendaele, the weather continued to create its own havoc; unseasonal rains transformed the low-lying war-weary countryside into a swamp land of

liquid mud. Many men drowned in the filthy quagmire, exhausted and defeated by the dreadful conditions. Passchendaele epitomises the tragic loss and futility of World War One. By the campaignâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s end, there were approximately 275,000 British and Commonwealth casualties, including 38,000 Australians and 5,300 New Zealanders, who were either killed, wounded or declared missing. Additionally, German casualties totalled almost a quarter of a million men. Further Information Visit Flanders www.visitflanders.com

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Memorial during Anzac Day (photo © Henk Deleu); right: Night lighting at Menin Gate (photo © Westtoer apb).

MAJOR MEMORIAL EVENTS IN 2017 Exhibition 1917: Total War in Flanders –

Visit

Various locations from 3 June to 15 December, including exhibitions and information stands at major WW1 sites

Passchendaele and Flanders FIELDS WITH NUMEROUS PERMANENT MEMORIALS AND COMMEMORATIVE SITES, FLANDERS FIELDS IS FILLED WITH THE LEGACY OF THOSE WHO FELL DURING THE BATTLES OF MESSINES AND PASSCHENDAELE.

Tyne Cot Cemetery and Visitors Centre – the largest Commonwealth War Cemetery in Europe. Polygon Wood (New Buttes British Cemetery) – features a memorial to the Australian 5th Division. The annual Anzac Dawn Service is also held.

International Remembrance Ceremony: Centenary of the Battle of Messines – 7 June. Tag for Remembrance Project – Visitor Centre, Tyne Cot Cemetery from 1 July to 10 November. Visitors can engrave a personal message of peace in an identity tag as part of a permanent artwork forming The Tree of Remembrance. Australian Memorial Ceremony – Centenary of the Battle of Passchendaele from 26 September, Tyne Cot Cemetery. Menin Gate – One of the most famous

MAJOR MEMORIAL SITES Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917 – located in the château grounds of Zonnebeke, the museum focuses on the material aspects of WW1.

across Flanders Fields.

Commonwealth memorials in Europe, and Hill 60 – cratered landscape and memorial to the Australian Tunnelling Division. The Pool of Peace – the largest of the mines blown at the start of the Battle of Messines, is now a serene place of remembrance. Heuvelland Visitor Centre – opens February 2017, this family friendly visitor centre will focus on the Battle of Messines in 1917.

just 10 minutes’ drive from Zonnebeke is the town of Ypres. At 8pm each night the Last Post is sounded in a deeply moving ceremony that pays respect to the fallen.

Further Information Passchendaele www.toerisme-ieper.be www.passchendaele.be www.passchendaele2017.org MAGAZINE

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Create

Coming World REMEMBER Me Above and below: participants of the Coming World Remember Me initiative, which invites the public to create one sculpture for each of the 600,000 victims who fell in Belgium during World War One (photo © CWRM).

GET INVOLVED Where – Ypres, 50 meters from Menin Gate How – Takes approximately 30 minutes Cost – €5.00 per person (half of all proceeds are donated to charities assisting children impacted by war) www.cwrm.be

THE AMBITIOUS COMING WORLD REMEMBER ME PROJECT IN FLANDERS HAS TAKEN ON THE TASK OF INVITING THE PUBLIC TO MAKE 600,000 SCULPTURES IN CLAY – ONE FOR EVERY VICTIM WHO FELL HERE IN WORLD WAR ONE.

etween now and 2018, thousands of people from all over the world will take part in workshops making 600,000 sculptures out of clay. Each sculpture represents one of the 600,000 victims who fell in World War One in Belgium. From April 2018, the sculptures will be compiled in a permanent art installation at a memorial on the former no-man’s land near Ypres.

A FIRSTHAND ACCOUNT “Our group has spent the day touring the battlefield regions of Flanders Fields. On the remembrance trail, we do a lot of listening, looking and reflecting. While none of us are artists, we feel energised as we walk into the workshop, keen to be ‘doing’ something tangible to commemorate the sacrifice made by so many. 86

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“We each cut a chunk of clay and begin pounding and shaping our sculpture. No artistic ability is required, as we follow the instructions provided by the workshop coordinator. One of our group marks his grandfather’s initial on his sculpture – his grandfather fought in Flanders in the Battle of Broodseinde. Another carves her Great Uncle’s name; he lays buried in Lijssenthoek Cemetery in Poperinge. “It’s a special feeling for all of us, to contribute to the making of a memorial and in our own small way, leave a legacy to help keep the memory of the fallen alive.” Further Information www.facebook.com/comingworldrememberme Each participant receives a certificate of participation, and dog tags with the CWRM imprint.

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Clockwise from above: crowds at an outdoor café; North Sea mussels (both photos © milo-profi.be); a sample of the country’s iconic chocolates (photo © Antwerp Tourism).

Stay While in FLANDERS ENJOYING THE TASTE SENSATIONS OF FLANDERS IS A WONDERFUL PART OF EXPERIENCING THE REGION. BEER, WAFFLES, MUSSELS OR FRIES, ANYONE?

part from Belgium’s delectable beer, waffles and chocolate, foodies will enjoy the region’s many other gastronomic delights – whether you’ll be dining at small local cafes and bistros or the multitude of Michelin-starred restaurants. Mussels with frîtes (fries) is a classic dish. The clear waters of the North Sea make the mussels particularly fleshy, with shells that are lighter than most. Mussels are available at most restaurants across Flanders from July through to winter. Flemish beef stew, cooked in beer, has long been a part of the culinary heritage of Flanders and it is still a popular dish, readily

found in local restaurants. Secret family recipes are handed down through the generations, each with a fine balance between spicy and sweet flavourings. Of course, Belgium is a beer-lover’s paradise with over 1,500 different original brews. Many beers have their own personalised glass, in which that beer and only that beer may be served, with the shape of the glass made to enhance the flavour of the beer. And then of course there is chocolate. The first records of chocolate trading date back to 1635 in Ghent, Belgium, where it was sold by pharmacists as a tonic. In 1912, Belgian chocolate came into its own when Jean Neuhaus Jr invented the praline.

A number of factors make Belgian chocolate so special, including the quality of the beans, high cocoa content and the use of 100% cocoa butter. Chocolate stores abound across the country, including chocolatiers who specialise in innovative and creative taste combinations as well as more traditional styles. Further Information Visit Flanders www.visitflanders.com Flanders Fields www.flandersfields.com

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AUSTRALIA’S GREATEST CITIZEN Apart from outlining General Monash’s career and other campaigns, Fischer’s book,

Interview

Maestro John Monash, argues for the great war hero to be posthumously awarded the

LEST we forget MIDWAY INTO THE CENTENARY OF WORLD WAR ONE, FORMER DEPUTY PRIME MINISTER TIM FISCHER, AC HOPES THAT YOUNG AUSTRALIANS CONTINUE TO RESPECT FRANCE’S MANY MEMORIALS ASSOCIATED WITH THE AUSTRALIAN WAR EFFORT. I’ve long been fascinated with military history – especially after serving in the Australian army in the 1960s. My sister married a Frenchman, so I’ve long had a connection with that specific chapter of Australia’s war history. I’ve walked several battlefields, including Le Hamel. It gave me a terrific appreciation of the accomplishments of General Sir John Monash, who predicted this particular battle would take 90 minutes (it took 93 minutes). Le Hamel was a turning-point in the war. It showed the British army how to turn the tide. Australians should visit France to understand the difficulty of the war in western France – the land, the mud, the trenches. This year will be the anniversary of Britain’s disastrous Sir Henry Rawlinsonled battle at the Somme, which resulted in the loss of 20,000 lives there on the first morning alone. 88

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A sermon held at Amiens Cathedral, on the last Sunday of the war, was an important start for Franco-Australian relations following the war. The Australian sacrifices in France were warmly acknowledged by the Bishop of Amiens, and there is a plaque commemorating the role of the Australian Imperial Force. Since that time, the French-Australian alliance has grown ever richer. It spans trade, investment, tourism and education, among others. There are a range of tours available for visitors – make sure you find one with a well-balanced perspective. I’ll also be participating in some tours to France this May and October, and will be visiting Le Hamel later during the centenary to open the new Sir John Monash Centre (see side box).

title of Field Marshall. “He was a progressive, holistic leader who looked after the men both during and after the war,” says Fischer. Monash hailed from the Riverina area, Fischer’s electorate, giving a subtle personal connection. “But despite Monash’s achievements, which included establishing the state electricity commission in Victoria after the war, he was kept at the bottom of the ranks by the anti-Semitic sentiment that then prevailed.” Maestro John Monash: Australia’s Greatest Citizen General, Tim Fischer, Monash University Publishing, RRP $29.95.

One thing people don’t realise is how easy it is to visit these sites. They lie just two hours from Paris by train to Picardie or Amiens. You simply must visit these sites – Menin Gate, France, Belgium, the new Monash Centre. You must stand on Mont Saint-Quentin and remember the selflessness and sacrifice of these brave men. Further information Anzac France www.anzac-france.com Australian War Memorial www.awm.gov.au

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Opposite: memorial poppy at Le Hamel. Above: Tim Fischer, AC., urges all Australians to visit the World War One memorial sites in France and Belgium.

Right: Amiens Cathedral (photo © ARDT80/ F Leonardi). Below: Memorial plaque at Le Hamel (photo © Somme Tourisme).

SIR JOHN MONASH CENTRE This subterranean history centre sits beneath a raised ‘field’ at the Australian National Memorial near Villers-Bretonneux, and is accessed via a trench-like series of open walkways. Due to open in 2018, the centre will play an important role in educating visitors about Australia’s early role in international affairs, and about the 290,000 Australian men and women who served on the Western Front. Department of Veterans’ Affairs, www.dva.gov.au.

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UNFORGETTABLE

Like the Masters, we’ve got France down to a fine art During your luxury river cruise with award-winning APT, you’ll experience stunning French landscapes that inspired many great artists. Paint yourself into scenes of timeless beauty as you explore the history of the Bordeaux region, discover the charm of Provence and cruise the Seine and Rhône rivers.

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Above: Impressionism-inspired illumination at Rouen’s Notre Dame Cathedral (photo © La Crea). Opposite, top: Musée Jacquemart André, one of the Paris venues (photo © Paris Tourist Office). Below: re-enactment of Manet’s déjeuner sur l’herbe (photo © OTC La Vallée de Seine).

Impressionism

Into the LIGHT

THE TRIENNIAL NORMANDY IMPRESSIONIST FESTIVAL CELEBRATES THE LYRICAL LANDSCAPES AND CREATIVE INSPIRATION THAT PRECIPITATED THIS ARTISTIC MOVEMENT. BY VANESSA COUCHMAN

aris was the city of lights, but the luminous vistas of Normandy drew Monet and his radical colleagues to found a revolution in 19th-century painting: Impressionism. Under the spell of Normandy’s distinctive light and scenery, the masters of this now-famous movement set up their alfresco studios beneath its everchanging skies.

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The triennial Normandy Impressionist Festival (www.normandie-impressionniste.eu) celebrates their unique artistic legacy, from April to September 2016. The central theme is the ground-breaking portraits of Monet, Renoir, Degas, Pissarro and others, who portrayed people throughout French society in scenes of everyday life.

MAJOR EXHIBITIONS IN PARIS AND NORMANDY Among Paris’ collections of Impressionist masterpieces, the Orsay (www.musee-orsay. fr) and Orangerie (www.musee-orangerie. fr/en) museums are essential starting points. Claude Monet’s Impression, sunrise (1872),

from which the movement took its name, hangs in the Musée Marmottin Monet (www. marmottan.fr). Normandy’s central influence on the Impressionist painters is evoked in an exhibition at the Musée Jacquemart André (www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com). No stay in Normandy is complete without a visit to the house and gardens of Monet, the father of Impressionism, at Giverny. The Musée des Impressionismes in Giverny (www.mdig.fr/en) will also celebrate the works of Gustave Caillebotte and the Spanish painter Joaquín Sorolla. Women Impressionists were overshadowed by their male counterparts, but an exhibition in nearby Vernon’s Musée AG Poulain (giverny.org/museums/poulain) redresses the balance.

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CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS The festival offers hundreds of other cultural events, including exhibitions of contemporary art and photography. You can picnic on the grass à la Manet, enjoy the son et lumière playing over Rouen cathedral’s façade or take a cookery course in Le Havre based on Monet’s own recipe collections. The River Seine and the ethereal light and spectacular cliffs of Normandy’s coastline were favourite Impressionist subjects. Cruise down the river and compare their works with the modern landscape. Or follow in the footsteps of Corot, Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley, Van Gogh and other Impressionists along the marked trails around the region. This year also marks the 950th anniversary of the Norman Conquest of England. Medieval themed festivals throughout Normandy will celebrate this crossroad in history.

STAY IN IMPRESSIONIST STYLE

Rouen’s medieval centre and river views were close to many Impressionists’ hearts. Monet captured the majestic Notre Dame Cathedral 28 times in different lights. The Musée des BeauxArts (mbarouen.fr/en) will show more than 100 Impressionist portraits and artefacts illustrating the painters’ lives and contemporary French society. The festival celebrates artists who influenced or were inspired by Impressionism. A forerunner of the movement, Eugène Boudin, has his own

museum in his native Honfleur, where an exhibition is devoted to Impressionist pictures of childhood and youth. The Musée des Beaux-Arts in Le Havre will also explain Boudin’s works in the light of his writings (www.musees-honfleur.fr/ musee-eugene-boudin.html). Norwegian landscapist Frits Thaulow was deeply involved in Impressionism. The first retrospective of his work will take place at the Musée des BeauxArts in Caen (mba.caen.fr).

Normandy boasts a wealth of accommodations, from B&Bs to châteaux, with views of the sea or the unspoilt rolling countryside. Continuing the Impressionist theme, the Ferme Saint-Siméon (www. fermesaintsimeon.fr/en/) is a country inn once frequented by the young Monet and his friends. It has retained its farmhouse charm but is now a five-star hotel, overlooking the delightful and much-painted port of Honfleur. Further Information Normandy Tourism www.normandy-tourism.org

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Champagne

message in a MAKE AN ENTRANCE WITH THESE SPECIAL-EDITION BEAUTIES, OR CELLAR FOR EXCEPTIONAL AGEING. THE DESIGN NOTES OF THESE CHAMPAGNES ARE AS IMPRESSIVE AS THEIR TASTING NOTES ARE.

Perrier Jouët Belle Epoque Inspired by the magical sight of a hummingbird hovering briefly over a spray of flowers, this stunning bottle by Brazilian designer Vik Muniz has every quality of the Belle Epoque era it references. It complements the delicate 2005 rosé it houses, part of cellar master Hervé Deschamps’ famous Belle Epoque collection at Perrier-Jouët. www.perrier-jouet.com

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BOTTLE Mumm Melbourne Cup Turn heads this upcoming horse-racing season with Mumm’s limited-edition Melbourne Cup release, emblazoned with a galloping horse and rider. Created in homage to Mumm’s longstanding association with sporting victory, the champagne itself is bright and sparkling. The initial nose of ripe fresh fruit opens up to an explosive freshness characterised by fresh fruit and caramel. www.mumm.com/en

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Pommery Cuvée Louise Bollinger 007

Mumm Moire Effect Mumm’s iconic Cordon Rouge – red sash – gets a chic update in this sporty bottle design by architect and industrial designer Renato Montagner, whose passion for extreme sports has seen his talents applied everywhere from ships to sports gloves. The perfectly balanced champagne itself boasts complex aromas achieved through a careful blend of fleshy with tart fruit, revealing a round and generous taste. www.mumm.com/en

Designer Eric Berthé has created a stunning Saint-Louis crystal champagne cooler set with a clear James Bond reference, to mark last year’s release of Spectre. The set comes with a magnum of Bollinger 1988 RD, a rare wine matured long on its lees to give an exceptional aromatic complexity and long finish. Look out too for the limited-edition Bollinger Spectre cuvée, also inspired by the glamorous world of Bond. www.champagne-bollinger.com

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A tribute to Louise Pommery, who famously made her family’s estate the esteemed champagne house it is today, this pale gold tipple is as elegant as it is lively. Wines are taken from three select vineyards: delicate pinot noir

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from Aÿ, elegant chardonnay from Avize and a complementing fruity chardonnay from Cramant. It’s presented in a white fox scarf and hat created by master furrier, Quentin Véron. vrankenpommery. com/en

Heidseick & Co Monopole Blue Top Powerful and generous, woody and almost spicy… the tasting notes for Monopole’s Blue Top describe a distinctive and modern champagne. Heidseick’s prestigious collaborations with designers in the past include a Fabergé bottle in 1885; this current bottle features an insulated cooler cover. There are eight prestigious tipples in the Monopole collection

altogether, from the intense and complex Silver Top to the pinot noir-tinged Rosé Top. www.heidsieckandco-monopole. com/en

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Objets d’art

TRUE TO THEIR REPUTATION, THESE FRENCH BRANDS ARE SUPERB TO USE AND DIVINE TO LOOK AT.

Occasion

Christofle Mood cutlery server Bring a playful touch to casual meals with this 24-piece elliptical silver-plated cutlery holder, designed to take centre stage on a table or sideboard. Apart from its undeniable style, the silver-plated cutlery set for six is dishwashersafe. Christofle Mood, RRP $1,820. info@christofle.com.au

Beach

Patisserie

If you’ve been to any French artisan market in recent years you’ll recognise the fouta, since the French have practically adopted this lightweight, originally Tunisian cotton towel as their own. Kif Collection’s hand-loomed organic cotton fouta are quick-drying and perfect for the beach. Fouta, RRP $25 – $75. www.kifcollection.com

Macarons may be the teatime sweet du jour, but let’s never forget they were first made in Ladurée Paris in the early 20th century. The ganache filling that joins two macaron shells makes for infinite flavour variations. Enjoy Ladurée macarons at Sydney’s two tea rooms, or take them home in one of these magnificent boxes. RRP $65 box 15 macarons. www.laduree.com

Fouta towels by Kif Collection

Ladurée Sydney

Bookmark

Gault&Millau restaurant guide, Sydney/ Melbourne edition

Explore more than 600 top-rated restaurants in Sydney and Melbourne through this outstanding compendium and read insights from leading chefs including Neil Perry and Guillaume Brahimi. Last year marked the launch of the Gault&Millau Australia Awards, and all winners and finalists are included in this edition. RRP $29.99. www.gaultmillau.com.au

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YOUR DREAMS COME WITH

breathtaking VIEWS

An Avalon river cruise through France is an exquisite and timeless journey unlike any other. On our Seine river cruises, you’ll experience the best of French culture, from the burlesque cabarets of Paris to the medieval towns along the shoreline and the breathtaking scenery in between. Our Rhône river cruises are just as classic and sophisticated. Featuring sweeping views of lavender fields and rolling hills dotted with castles, a journey down the Rhône will take you from the picturesque mountains of Switzerland through the heartland of France and to the Mediterranean Sea.

INclusions All meals onboard Sparkling wine with breakfast Unlimited regional wine, beer & soft drinks with dinner Sightseeing with Certified Local Guides Exclusive Local Favourites Freedom to customise your journey with Avalon Choice Gratuities & port charges

For information or to book Call 1300 230 234

160215_AW16_Rendez-vous_France_230x300.indd 1

Visit avalonwaterways.com.au

See your Travel Agent

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Indulge

Edouard Artzner foie gras Few delicacies go so well with champagne as foie gras, perhaps served on lightly toasted sourdough, or even with a garnish of onion chutney. Edouard Artzner foie gras is creamy in texture yet with an ever-so-light aftertaste, making for memorable pre-dinner snacking. It’s available in slabs, jars and more. www.frenchfinefood.com.au

Sip

La Maison du Thé Conceived by coffee supremos Vittoria and developed with French master tea blenders, La Maison du Thé is available at top cafés and hotels. Choose from three black teas and three herbals. www.vittoriafandb.com/tea.asp

Spice

Fallot mustard As a heritage brand founded in 1840, Fallot mustard has an unwavering customer promise. Inside each charmingly packaged jar is a stone-ground mustard produced by a tiny team of 20. Explore also the newer collection of aromatic products, flavoured with spices such as French tarragon or Burgundy blackcurrant.www.fallot. com/en

Picnic

Vintec Transbottle If you’re a fan of Vintec’s incredible range of wine cellars – which store your valuable wines in optimal cellaring conditions – and you enjoy travelling, you’ll love the Transbottle: it’s a new shock-resistant and isothermal wine bottle carrier from France, which will protect your valuable wines from breakage, temperature variations and freezing (it can even be stored in a plane’s cargo hold). RRP $140 www.vintecclub.com/shop-home

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Main: The allure of Paris is enduring (photo © Paris Tourist Office/Sarah Sergent). Inset: image from the social media campaign.

#ParisWeLoveYou

Forever YOUNG

PARIS IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA, SIGHS AUDREY HEPBURN DREAMILY IN THE 1954 MOVIE ‘SABRINA’. AND THE REST OF THE WORLD SEEMS TO AGREE, JUDGING BY A RECENT SURVEY AND THE #PARISWELOVEYOU CAMPAIGN. BY ELLA LOMBARDI

t seems the rest of the world agrees with Hepburn, judging by an Anholt study of 50 cities, in which the City of Lights beat capitals including London and Sydney to rank as the globe’s most-admired city. Despite last year’s devastating terrorist attacks, fans of the French capital are showing their solidarity by simply returning, as the country’s president reassures tourists of their safety, adding thousands of extra security forces on the streets. Here’s why Paris is still number one, in so many ways. Presence – Delighting and surprising residents and visitors alike, this extraordinary city dominates the innovation stakes in fashion and luxury, wine and gastronomy, arts, culture and craftsmanship.

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Place – Paris loves to mix it up: old with new, modernity with tradition. The city’s cultural vein remains its key attraction, but events such as the French Open, Tour de France and others make Paris a world capital of sport. Prerequisites – Paris’ accommodation choices are immense, with 110,000 rooms on offer. Look out for the eagerly awaited reopening of the Ritz and Hôtel de Crillon, and the soon-to-open OFF Paris Seine, the city’s first floating hotel. People – Gone is the old cliché of the grumpy Parisian waiter. Now you’re more likely to find exemplary service with a smile, and more than a smattering of English. Paris’ culture is more wonderfully diverse and rich than it’s ever been.

Pulse – Around 300 events take place every day of the year. Annual festivals such as the Fête de la Musique, Nuit Blanche and scores of food, art and performance offerings contribute to the year-round buzz. Potential – Visiting Paris is a neverending education, no matter your age. Learning opportunities abound for visitors, from making chocolate to mastering the lingo. Further Information Visit Paris en.parisinfo.com Paris We Love You www.parisweloveyou.fr

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Guy Savoy

Freshly minted FLAVOURS

APART FROM BREATHING NEW LIFE INTO ITS LATEST PREMISES, THE FORMER PARIS MINT, THE MENU AT RESTAURANT GUY SAVOY IS FULL OF BRILLIANT NEW CULINARY ENTRIES.

From top: acclaimed chef Guy Savoy; the restaurant’s intimate interior; caviar l’œuf en sabayon fume (all photos © Laurence Mouton).

he first thing you notice on entering chef Guy Savoy’s new location, top of the Monnaie de Paris, is its stellar views. From the cocoon-like cosiness of its slate grey interiors, diners take in gracious views of the Seine, the Louvre, the Pont Neuf and the Île de Paris, through classic floor-to-ceiling Haussman-era windows. It’s not just guests who are treated to this riverside spectacle – the 35-strong kitchen team is, too. Complementing the art and beauty that surrounds restaurant patrons, architect JeanMichel Wilmotte has conceived an exceptional modern kitchen bathed in natural light. Little wonder, then, that the cuisine on offer continues to delight gastronomes and maintain Savoy’s firm hold on his three Michelin stars. On the menu recently were such creations as shellfish graffiti and salmon ‘frozen’ on ice, served with a scalding consommé and lemon pearls. There’s also a new dessert, Rhubarb, which resembles an art installation concocted from fruits and meringue-hazelnut gateau. Signature wines from throughout France (and some abroad) have been selected to complement each dish, and are housed in the former mint’s 250-year-old cellar. Guy Savoy’s passion for French cuisine has earned him accolades throughout culinary

circles, whether for his multiple cookbooks, film about the provenance of French produce, and training work for school children up to professional chefs. He was also on the committee that successfully lobbied for the French gourmet meal to be UNESCO-recognised as an intangible cultural treasure. It all just provides more food for thought as you gaze, wineglass in hand, across that timeless Parisian view. Further Information Restaurant Guy Savoy www.guysavoy.com

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Winning works from this year’s Meurice prize for contemporary art; (bottom left) general manager Franka Holtmann (photo © Saywho/Cedric Canezza).

Arts

Picture THIS

APART FROM BEING UNFORGETTABLE AS A TRAVEL EXPERIENCE, PARIS’ ESTEEMED HOTEL LE MEURICE IS A LEADING ARTS PATRON THAT IS THIS YEAR HOSTING ITS EIGHTH MEURICE PRIZE FOR CONTEMPORARY ART.

n opulent 18th century structure; a grand address within walking distance of the Louvre and Place de la Concorde. An eye-catching interior update by Philippe Starck; a rollcall of artistic guests over the years that has ranged from Honoré de Balzac to Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Coco Chanel and Liza Minnelli, to name a few. As Le Meurice celebrated its 180th birthday 102

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last year, a look at the preeminent hotel’s contribution to the arts over the centuries seems fitting, particularly given its ongoing initiatives in the field. This year marks the eighth Meurice Prize for contemporary art to date, an international award with a €20,000 grand prize, spanning visual and plastic arts disciplines including painting, sculpture, installation, photography and video. The prize, driven by general manager Franka Holtmann – who won Hotelier of the Year in 2008, the prize’s inaugural year – continues to boost arts patronage after each award, given the hotel’s regular purchase of artworks by former participants. Kiss by Zoulikha Bouabdellah (2008 winner) stands in the lobby, while Crystal by Éric Baudart (2011)

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WUNDERKAMMER (CABINET OF CURIOSITIES) Dates: 13–25 October Venue: Galerie Castiglione, 9, rue de Castiglione, 75001 Paris (open Tue–Sat, 12:00 –17:00)

is displayed in the Salon Jeu de Paume. This year, arts patrons can view several finalists’ works in the Wunderkammer (Cabinet of Curiosities) exhibition at nearby Galerie Castiglione. Inspired by the Renaissance-era trend of keeping mementos in original cabinets, the exhibition showcases intriguing miniature works submitted by the six finalists: Saâdane Afif, Abdelkader Benchamma, Julian Charrière, David Douard, Mimosa Echard, and Abraham Pointcheval. And if you miss the show, make sure you take a slow stroll through Le Meurice’s public areas to view its growing collection. Further Information Le Meurice dorchestercollection.com

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Travel

Up in the AIR

BORED OF AIRLINE UBIQUITY? CRAVING SOME INFLIGHT STYLE EN ROUTE TO FRANCE? FROLIC THROUGH THESE AIR FRANCE ARCHIVE IMAGES FOR A HINT OF THE ART DE VIVRE THAT AWAITS PASSENGERS ON BOARD.

ith the fast pace of modernday travel and the singleclick touch with which travellers can book their overseas trips, it’s hard to remember that air travel was once a glamorous experience for the elite.

FROM THE ATELIER National carrier Air France has kept up this sense of old-world elegance for decades. Its uniforms have been designed by the biggest names in French fashion, who used the clothing designs to evoke values such as ‘heroism’ (Boudet’s uniforms of the 1930s), ‘feminine’ (Dior in the 1950s) and ‘multiform’ (the three fashion houses of Carven, Nina Ricci and Louis Féraud in the 1970s and 80s). The present uniforms, from Christian Lacroix, evoke feminine professionalism and a very tricolour French aesthetic. Just to provide inspiration before you head to Lacroix’s flagship store in Place Saint-Sulpice, of course. 104

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Left: Chr created a silhouett dress an combina Air Franc

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Clockwise from top: Christian Lacroix’s chic and classically Parisian uniform, currently worn on board; fresh seafood from the business class menu; the Lacroix uniforms; figure-hugging waists and soft shoulders made for an elegant hourglass figure in this 1951 collection by Georgette de Trèze.

Left: Christian Dior house created a feminine yet agile silhouette with its summer dress and pill-box hat combination. All photos © Air France.

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FROM THE KITCHEN If you’re not in the market for a new piece of Lacroix haute couture, you can still enjoy Gallic excellence in the form of the airline’s menu. In Business Class, meals are conceived by Michelin-starred stars including Régis Marcon, Michel Roth, Joël Robuchon and Guy Martin. Fresh seafood is just one luxury you won’t find on board many other airlines, as are the cheese platter, fresh pastries and choice of customising your meal before boarding – when you’ll be met with a flute of chilled champagne, of course. Bon voyage. Further Information Air France www.airfrance.com.au

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Attitude

So Parisian SO COOL

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THE PARISIENNE STILL LIVES UP TO HER LEGEND AND EXPERT SKILLS ARE REQUIRED TO MASTER HER SENSE OF STYLE, RELAXED ELEGANCE AND ART DE VIVRE. HERE ARE 20 EASYTO-FOLLOW TIPS TO EMBRACE THE LIFESTYLE ON HER HOME TURF.

1) NEVER ADMIT TO GETTING A FULL NIGHT’S SLEEP Don’t accept compliments on how well you look. If someone dares to praise you, simply reply, “Oh, I’ve only slept three hours in the past two days.” The idea is to suggest that the flush in your cheeks is the result of a night of passion.

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2) ANGLICISE YOUR FRENCH Her conversation is peppered with Anglicisms and old-fashioned turns of phrase. The Parisienne has a “lover”, is a fan of “feel-good” films and texts “long time no see‘’ to her friends. She also loves throwing “-ings” in everywhere (“nightswapping”, “regifting”, “jobbing” and so on). She uses the more sophisticated souliers instead of chaussures for “shoes”, and calls “clothes” habits (not vêtements). For her, everything is petit (little), whether it’s putting on a petit dinner (for 25 people) or giving a petit gift (regardless of whether or not the present is extravagant).

3) DON’T LOOK IMPRESSED, EVER When invited to the Marcel Duchamp Prize gala dinner – a super chic fringe event of the Fiac – The Parisienne later recalls that, although artist Bertrand Lavier, who was sitting next to her, seemed really nice, the cabbage stuffed with lobster was nothing special.

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4) MASTER THE T-SHIRT TUCK The Parisienne has some surprising skills, including the famous “T-shirt tuck”, worn loosely over the front of her jeans. Her secret? She tucks the hem into her trousers and lift her arms for the perfect look – a small example of French genius. She’s also come up with an entire theory on how to roll up the sleeves of her white shirt.

5) PARISIANISE YOUR ENVIRONMENT

9) COLLECT NOTEBOOKS FOR LITERARY EFFECT

Take a little piece of Paname (Paris) with you when you leave the city, whether it’s slipping on a Belleville Hills T-Shirt (no-oneparis.com), lighting a La Tournelle candle in your hotel room (www.astierdevillate.com) or spraying on some Oud Vendôme by perfumer Ex Nihilo (www. ex-nihilo-paris.com).

The Parisienne still writes a lot, or at least she likes to collect pretty little notebooks, like those by Papier Tigre (www.papiertigre.fr) or La Compagnie du Kraft (www.lekraft.com). She mainly uses them to write lists that she never ticks off. When she’s on a girls’ night out, “listing the exes” is also great fun. Photo © Atout France/Phovoir

6) LEARN THE ART OF NONCHALANCE Don’t polish your shoes. The Parisienne prefers to buff them on the stairway carpet of her Haussman apartment building. Above all, avoid giving the impression that you’ve made an effort to dress up or that you value your accessories, however expensive they may be.

7) PRETEND YOU’D RATHER BE ELSEWHERE The true Parisienne goes to the Paris Photo art fair, which takes place on 12–15 November at the Grand Palais, to tell everyone that she’s dying to visit the Lianzhou Photo Festival in China, but unfortunately won’t have the time.

8) GO FOR A NON-SURGICAL FACELIFT She’s officially against cosmetic surgery but loves anything that can do the job temporarily. When the blur cream she would never admit to using fails her, she treats herself to a Japanese Kobido facial massage. This so-called ‘‘natural facelift’’ can be booked at the very chic Tigre Yoga Club (tigre-yoga.com), frequented by the likes of Carine Roitfeld.

10) GO FOR THE CALORIES Never eat quinoa in public, always saucisson and rillettes. It’s distasteful to come across as constantly watching what you eat (or worse, your weight). The best place to go? The new bistrot Terroir Parisien on the Right Bank, headed up by Yannick Alléno. www.yannick-alleno.com

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11) VANITY BE THY NAME! She secretly reads the bestsellers devoted to her and her way of life. From How to be Parisian Wherever You Are (Doubleday) to You’re so French! (La Martiniere) and Parisian Chic (Flammarion), she’s really spoilt for choice. She pretends not to take them seriously but really revels in attention – everything they say is so true.

12) DRINK WINE ONLY The French are back into wine bars, an 80s concept that had been somewhat overshadowed by a whole host of Spanish and Basque competitors. We adore 116 (www.116pages.fr), a recent addition to the über stylish restaurant Pages, with its list of natural wines (no added sulphites, a prerequisite these days) and “produce-oriented” dishes of only the highest quality, plus a hint of Japanese influence.

13) CYCLE IN THE CITY The true Parisienne has her own personal take on the taxi vs Uber debate. She rides an electric bike (a blue Selve, www.o2feel.com) or a scooter if she’s in a hurry. Otherwise, she walks a lot – her only exercise, she claims.

14) FORGET ABOUT SUPERMARKETS Parisians have just rediscovered the delights of delicatessen shopping for regional produce from all over Europe in Causses (www.causses. org) or the brand-new Maison Plisson (www. lamaisonplisson.com), both of which are also great places for gifts. However, their heart really lies with the Grande Epicerie at the Bon Marché department store (www.lebonmarche.com/ en.html).

15) BE A SKI DIVA The Parisienne claims that her skiing days are over, when in fact she’s already booked her chalet in Val-D’Isere – the one she’s been going back to for the past decade – for next year. The same goes for her favourite 22-room hotel in Oberlech, Austria. In short, she’ll only go to Courchevel or Megève if she’s invited and, even then, she might make an excuse, pretending she’d rather go cross-country skiing in Akaslompolo, Finland (“so much magical”). Photo © David Andre

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16) BAN FRENCH MANICURES The idea of a French manicure only makes a Parisienne laugh. Why on earth would anyone give that name to something so un-French? After a summer of nude polishes on tanned hands, she’s keeping her nails natural, buffed and short.

17) EAT IN ALL THE RIGHT PLACES She knows to kiss on both cheeks, where and when – for instance Jean de Loisy, director of the Palais de Tokyo contemporary art centre, when she eats at Monsieur Bleu (www.monsieurbleu. com), the centre’s restaurant.

18) TREAT JEANS AS A SURGICAL ISSUE

20) STAY HIGH ON CAFFEINE French women drink a lot of coffee (according to Daily Telegraph journalist Celia Walden, this could be the secret of their slim figures) – with a cigarette, of course. They don’t mind their bad reputation as they like to be seen as rebels, although they have recently traded the traditional espresso in a café for a beverage from coffee shops, most of which can be found around the Canal Saint-Martin or in South Pigalle. They’re never happier than when their coffee is grown in Ethiopia, roasted in Denmark and served by an Australian.

She will get hold of a pair of Vanessa Seward (www.vanessaseward.com) jeans at all costs. Having worked for Azzaro and A.P.C., Vanessa is the embodiment of Parisian chic. The launch of her first collection is causing a real stir, and Les Parisiennes have been fighting it out since last July to get their hands on the Holy Grail – a pair of high-waisted, flattering jeans, with the wearer’s first name embroidered in gold on the pocket.

19) HIRE A SECRET HELPER A Parisienne doesn’t need a personal shopper because she herself is the definition of style. However, she does have a few tricks up her sleeve to avoid fashion blunders, including a new service that allows her to try on designer shoes at home. She selects the pairs she wants to try from the website, and they are delivered within the hour. The service is free, whether she buys them or not. ‘‘Fantastique, don’t you think?’’ www.cabine.fr Article reprinted with permission © Valérie de Saint Pierre/Madame Figaro French inspiration/FW/2015

ERES GET AN ALL NATURAL LIFT-AND-TUCK The Parisienne is also rather clever when it comes to flattering clothing, as she’d never ever submit her feminine frame to plastic surgery. Luxe swimwear and lingerie brand, Eres – now a Chanel brand, but founded in 1968 by the practical and genial Irène Leroux – is sought after by style divas around the globe for its form-flattering, hightech creations. The 2016 collection features several themes, including Comic Strip (pictured), with its naïve snap fastenings and sweet colours. www.eres.fr/en Photo © Eres

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Antibes Juan-les-Pins

Tender is the NIGHT

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Above: ramparts of Antibes, founded in ancient Greek times (photo © Claude Piot); Below: entrance to Villa Eilenroc (photo © Ville d’Antibes Juan-les-Pins).

STILL ONE OF SOUTHERN FRANCE’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS, THE DUAL TOWN OF ANTIBES JUAN-LES-PINS BOASTS A PRIME SEASIDE LOCATION AND A RICH LEGACY OF ARTS PATRONAGE. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

half-hour drive from Cannes, or a pleasant 20-minute train ride from Nice on the magnificent Côte d’Azur, sits authentic Antibes and Juan-les-Pins, less than 1.5 km apart on either side of a stunning craggy peninsula. Roman relics, a magic marina, little laneways and calming beaches evoke the hypnotic calmness for which the Riviera is renowned. It’s impossible to visit one without wanting to experience the other, so dive in and experience your own tale of two cities.

INSPIRED IN ANTIBES Famous expat American artist couple Gerald Clery Murphy and Sara Sherman Wiborg moved to town in 1926, and threw flamboyant

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parties in their château. Guests included Picasso, who visited and stayed for six months, understandably inspired by the times and the town. In 1963, the château was transformed into the Picasso Museum (www.antibesjuanlespins.com/culture/musee-picasso), and is instrumental in understanding the early works of the artist up to his Blue Period. Other artists who spent extended sojourns

here include Man Ray, Chagall and Hans Hartung, and writers George Sand, Flaubert and Jules Verne. Writer F. Scott Fitzgerald and wife Zelda lived in the villa that is now the glamorous Belles Rives (www.bellesriveshotelantibes. com). Stunning, inspiring and plush, the hotel boasts a breathtaking waterfront restaurant, La Passagère, headed by Michelin-starred chef Olivier Vernet.

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Clockwise from above: suite at Belles Rives; outdoor dining in Juan-lesPins (photo © Atout France/Phovoir); the Anthéa theatre (photo © Coralie Polack); promenade in Antibes.

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JAZZED-UP IN JUAN-LES-PINS

SOAKING UP THE SCENE

In contrast to the old-world charm of Antibes, Juan-les-Pins thrums with life and is where most of the hotels are. Philanthropist Frank Jay Gould is attributed to being the first to equip the seaside town with luxury hotels and a casino for the flush locals, American stars and international bon vivants. Today, it’s also host to the twin city’s newer facilities – including the spacious modern conference centre with panoramic sea views from The View restaurant, the Azur Arena sports hall for professional athletes, and the ultramodern Anthéa theatre for bold, professional performances for all ages. (www.anthea-antibes.fr) Every summer, the city also hosts one of the world’s hottest jazz festivals – Jazz à Juan (www.jazzajuan.com). The program for 2016 includes Diana Krall, Earth Wind and Fire, Marcus Miller and Selah Sue.

You can stroll from Antibes to Juan-lesPins, but it’s much more fun to take the long way around the peninsula. Try some local street food – such as Socca (chick pea pancake) – or sip coffee and write poetry on the terrace in Place National. Barter at the flea markets or buy flowers at the covered market. Try the freshly baked patisseries at boutique hotel Mademoiselle (www.hotelmademoisellejuan. com/en) then pop into the English-speaking café Lucky Break by the port to upload your inspired Instagram photos with free Wi-Fi. Head to the beach with some crayons or a book. Go to the lighthouse of La Garoupe, whose beam reaches 31 miles. Stroll back to the hotel for fresh seafood offered by the region’s best chefs. Follow the Sentier Tirepoil footpath past a multitude of tiny inlets for fishermen and sun seekers, and drool over the prestigious estates. Good thing you’ve packed your pinstripes – this is one time-travel of a trip. Further Information Antibes-Juan les Pins www.antibesjuanlespins.com

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EDITH PIAF ET DAVID DOUGLAS 1959

GLORIA SWANSON MONTE CARLO BEACH - 1937

CARY GRANT PLACE DU CASINO - 1939

PETER SELLERS LES TERRASSES DU CASINO - 1968

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Mègeve

Snowtime like the PRESENT OFFERING FINE DINING, LUXURY SERVICES AND HUNDREDS OF KILOMETRES OF MAGNIFICENT SKI SLOPES, THE SOUTHEASTERN RESORT OF MEGÈVE MAKES FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE SKIING EXPERIENCE.

ne of just 12 prestige Alpine resorts across Europe, Megève is a charming village in the stunning mountains of the far RhôneAlpes region, facing Mont Blanc, its network of championship slopes measuring 400 kilometres in all. Original farms and stylish chalets jostle side-by-side, offering visitors an equal dose of style, service and authenticity. Its farm heritage is still integral to the resort’s character, with the medieval-era village centre and cobblestone streets being precisely what moved Baroness Noémie de Rothschild to open the first palace hotel here, in 1921. It soon became the go-to skiing destination for the French aristocracy. Today, with 200 chic boutiques, bakeries, wellness centres and designer spas alongside the rarefied accommodation offerings, Megève is a chic après-ski location that has been immortalised in the Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant film, Charade, among others. There’s even a three Michelin-star restaurant: Flocons de Sel by Emmanuel Renaut, which offers a spectacularly original take on Alpine cuisine (think polenta, mushrooms and cream), is attached to a chic contemporary lodge co-run by Emmanuel and his partner, Kristine. Apart from its magnificent skiing amenities, the lakes and mountains of Megève provide the setting for a host of summer pursuits: hiking, paragliding, horse-riding, climbing, golfing and more. At every turn, fragrant alpine forests and ice-clear streams provide postcard-perfect feasts for the eye. Access is easy, with Megève’s mountain airport located just 10 minutes from the village centre. The flight there and back offers unforgettable views over the peaks and glaciers of the Mont Blanc mountain range.

Above: Horsedrawn transport helps minimise the number of gaspowered vehicles in the village (photo © Megève/ Simon Garnier); right: Teeing off for wintertime golf (photo © Tristan Shu).

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Mont Saint-Michel

A MONUMENTAL undertaking

THERE ARE FEW SIGHTS IN THE WORLD THAT STOP YOU IN YOUR TRACKS, AND MONT SAINT-MICHEL IS ONE OF THEM. IT’S ALSO ONE OF 25 CHERISHED MONUMENTS ALONG THE TOUR DE FRANCE ROUTE THIS YEAR. BY ELLA LOMBARDI

or 1,050 years, the distant silhouette of the gothic island abbey Mont Saint-Michel, in Normandy, has sent pilgrims’ spirits soaring. It will no doubt have the same effect on the peloton of cyclists who set off from there on July 2, on the first leg of the 2016 Tour de France. From The Mont – as it’s affectionately known – cyclists begin their 3,500-kilometre circuit of the country, passing an impressive 25 historical monuments, culminating on July 24 at Paris’ Champs Élysées. They’ll also pass the stunning city of Carcassonne, Brou Royal Monastery, Château of Carrouges and abbeys of Charroux, to name a few. The UNESCO world heritage-listed Mont Saint-Michel will leave lasting impressions, as the peloton cycles along the rolling green hills toward Normandy’s cherished Cotentin Peninsula and Utah Beach, the first of the five D-Day landing beaches during World War II. This breathtaking northern leg also takes in Large production cultural dance performances are the the local capital Saint-Lo, Cherbourg-Octeville highlight of the Heiva I Tahiti festival in July each year and the 3-kilometre (photo © Nicolas Perez).Côte de la Glacerie, a climb behind the port through to Granville’s fortified headland. Visitors who have come to bid ‘bon chance’ 114

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to the cyclists can stay on and enjoy events and festivities in the region. At the eighth-century monastery, hang about after dark when the crowds have left for the day to explore abbey with the island’s own “secret inhabitant” tour. The Night Route takes place 11 July to 27 August except Sundays. In the main hall, you’ll see a gentler side to the abbey by world-acclaimed master of black and white landscape photography, Michael Kenna,

whose solitary exploration of the Mont will be on display from June 3 to August 27. Further Information Mont Saint-Michel www.abbaye-mont-saint-michel.fr www.letour.fr www.normandy-tourism.org www.monuments-nationaux.fr/en

Above: MontSaint-Michel by night (photo © Sabina LorkinAnibas). Left: The historic La Mère Poulard restaurant (photo ©CRT Normandie).

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Above: The palace’s famous Hall of Mirrors, for which Venetian craftsmen were engaged to produce the pieces in France (photo © Jose Ignacio Soto/Shutterstock) Below: Marble bust of Louis XIV (photo © Palace of Versailles).

Exhibition All that GLITTERS EXPERIENCE THE GOLD-AND-MARBLE BEDECKED GRANDEUR OF THE PALACE OF VERSAILLES AT AN EXHIBITION THIS SUMMER AT THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF AUSTRALIA IN CANBERRA, SHOWCASING THE PALACE’S MOST DEFINING TREASURES.

he extravagance of Louis XIV’s investments in the legendary Palace of Versailles might have made it a symbol of the French monarchy’s absolute rule. However, it also shaped a legend that continues to attract visitors from around the globe. In fact, seven million visitors from all over the world descend on the bejewelled and goldtrimmed chåteau and its luxuriant gardens each year, and it’s high on the list of must-visit French destinations for Australians. Now, audiences will be able to discover 100 masterpieces from the palace when a National Gallery of Australia exhibition opens in December

2016. The gallery has worked with the French Government and Palace of Versailles to achieve the program, which will showcase the marble bust of Louis XIV, monumental Gobelins tapestries and Marie-Antoinette’s porcelain among other famed treasures. The exhibition is organised into six themes, recreating major areas of the palace. Supporting programs will also celebrate the experience of Versailles court life, which attracted the rest of the world in the 17th and 18th centuries and was imitated by monarchs across Europe. Further Information National Gallery of Australia www.nga.gov.au MAGAZINE

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New Caledonia

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My island PARADISE

LAIDBACK LIVING AND THE WORLD’S MOST STUNNING CORAL REEFS AND LAGOONS ARE FAMOUS ATTRACTIONS – BUT DID YOU KNOW NEW CALEDONIA ALSO OFFERS PLENTY FOR CULTURE BUFFS?

visit to New Caledonia promises deep immersion in French-tinged environs among stunning natural wonders, including a UNESCO World Heritage-listed lagoon and the second largest reef in the world, all waiting to be explored. It was in 1774 that British explorer Captain James Cook discovered the island, naming it after his father’s native Scotland. But he never

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went on to claim it, and so the French snapped up the country as their own in 1853 as a penal colony. Today it is a thriving tricolour-waving, Brie-eating French dependency and it is this, blended with the indigenous Kanak culture, that gives the country its charm. It is a country where Melanesian tradition blends with French sophistication, très French but with a laid-back island lifestyle and culture, and Australians can experience this magic only 2.5 hours from home. Visitors can learn about the country’s indigenous population, the Kanak people, who have inhabited the island for more than 3,000 years, at Noumea’s Tjibaou Cultural Centre or the Museum of New Caledonia. The centre is located in a peaceful woodland and mangrove setting on the narrow

Tinu Peninsula, just 8 kilometres northeast of Noumea. It celebrates the vernacular Kanak culture through exhibition displays including sculptures, paintings and photographs representing the heritage of the indigenous people. Designed by Italian architect, Renzo Piano (who also designed the Pompidou Centre in Paris), the Tjibaou Cultural Centre is a stunning modern interpretation of traditional Kanak architecture. Its 10 pavilions are arranged in three groups or village clusters, with the tall 28-metre hut in each cluster representing the traditional Great Hut of the Kanak Chiefs. This arrangement of buildings around a central axis has a symbolic meaning for the Kanaks. While the huts have different sizes and functions, all have the same upright shell-like

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Above: New Caledonia’s breathtaking UNESCO world heritage lagoon (photo © Martial Dosdane); Right: buying tropical fruit at a local market.

structures, similar to the traditional huts of a Caledonian village. Visitors can learn about indigenous Kanak culture through interactive exhibitions, shows and concerts, or discover the Kanak lifestyle through replica displays in the gardens. Travellers can also delve deeper into the unique Kanak culture by homestaying in a local community, which offers rare insights into Melanesian culture. Most guests will stay in the type of traditional hut found throughout New Caledonia, adorning the landscape with their silhouette, and built entirely of plant material. Staying in a Kanak community offers a great opportunity to try out a few words of New Caledonia’s indigenous languages, of which there are more than 30, and to practice the French dialect.

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The strong French influence is evident throughout Noumea. Whether window shopping the French boutiques or tossing up between warm croissants or a cheese baguette for lunch, the French sophistication is everywhere. European settlement in the mid19th century gave birth to a new residential architectural style, similar in some aspects to that of other former French colonies. The City Museum, the Céllières houses, the Château Hagen in Noumea and the Château Grimigni in Pouembout are grand examples of this influence. Their emblematic rectangular buildings, tin roofs, walls and foundations of stone, lime or wood all stem from the colonial era. Many are decorated with elaborate railings, faux pinnacles on the roof, and latticework, blinds or canopies.

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Smaller-scale instances of this style dot the centre of Noumea today, in its restaurants, bars and cafés. A perfect way to take in the colonial architecture is with a self-guided tour – pick up a brochure at the local information centre and start taking in the sights. New Caledonia is more accessible to Australians than ever, with the international airline, Aircalin, operating 12 flights per week non-stop to Noumea. Flights take two hours from Brisbane, under three hours from Sydney and less than four hours from Melbourne, so travellers can be there in time for dinner.

Further Information New Caledonia Tourism www.new-caledonia.com.au

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EVENTS TO BOOKMARK French Cheese Festival – June, 2016: Calling all cheese lovers! This event lets guests taste up to 130 varieties of artisan French and local cheeses, chosen by famous cheese master Gerard Poulard and matched with wines for tasting.The event is held in two of New Caledonia’s finest hotels, Le Meridien and Sheraton Deva, and is the main event of the year for cheese amateurs. Trans Caledonian Southern Province Mountain Adventure Race - July, 2016: For the past 23 years, the Trans Caledonian Adventure Race has taken to the wilderness, with the help of local tribes, through forest and rocky trails, mountain ridges and creeks on a two-day hiking race through the picturesque mountains.

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Left: Half of New Caledonia’s population is aged under 30 (photo © Stephanie Ducandas) Above: Renzo Piano’s Tjibaou was inspired by a Kanak hut like this one (photo © Melissa Findley).

Noumea Carnival – August, 2016: One of the island’s major events, attended by more than 15,000 people. Concerts, music, dancing, food, a grand parade and fireworks feature every year. Bourail Fair – August, 2016: Check out the colourful booths and local Caledonian products at this culturally eclectic country fair. See cattle farmers present their most beautiful specimens, and admire the horsemanship of local stockmen – cowboys of the Caledonian brousse – as they participate in a colourful rodeo. Apart from the agricultural displays,you’ll be able to watch sheepdog demonstrations, a lumberjack contest, equestrian games, the Miss Bourail pageant, and dozens of

activities not to mention food tasting. For more information visit: en.visitnewcaledonia. com/zoom/bourail-fair New Caledonia International Marathon – August, 2016: This major event in the New Caledonian sporting calendar attracts top international competitors from around the world, including Europe, Africa, Pacific Islands and Japan. South Pacific Golf Championship – September, 2016: New Caledonia has joined New Zealand and Australia in hosting one of the 13 tournaments of the PGA Tour. This massive event will be played out at the Tina Golf Course, a par 71 over a distance of 5,600 metres, located 10 minutes from Noumea’s city centre and beaches.

Giant Omelette Festival – April, 2017: This peculiar festival takes place every year around Easter in the local Noumea town of Dumbea, and involves the creation of a giant omelette in remembrance of Napoleon demanding it be made for his soldiers by the townspeople of Bessieres. Avocado Festival – May, 2017: Hosted by the Nece tribal village on the Loyalty Islands’ remote island of Maré, this traditional annual event celebrates the island’s primary commodity. Enjoy avocado tasting as well as music and traditional dances. For more information, visit www.iles-loyaute.com/en

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Large production cultural dance performances are the highlight of the Heiva I Tahiti festival in July each year (photo ÂŠ Nicolas Perez).

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Tahiti

PEARL of the Pacific THE FAR-FLUNG PACIFIC GEM OF TAHITI REMAINS ONE OF THE REGION’S CULTURALLY RICHEST DESTINATIONS, WITH A LAGOON- AND VOLCANO-STUDDED SEASCAPE ENSURING YOUR TRAVEL MEMORIES WILL LAST A LIFETIME. BY LIZZIE DAVEY

ith a landscape made up of velvet green peaks and still, turquoise lagoons, Tahiti is as close to paradise as you can get. About nine hours’ flight from Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane or Auckland, it’s a luxury retreat with a vibrant historic heart. Though its capital, Papeete, hugs a bustling harbour and oozes a lively city atmosphere, it’s the incredible landscapes that are the biggest drawcard. An encounter with the island’s sprawling beaches and eclectic mishmash of culture is a party for the senses, bringing centuries-old dance traditions and Polynesian history together with majestic views, bright pink hibiscus flowers, and a laidback lifestyle shaped by its warm, hospitable people. Among its award-worthy scenery, Tahiti boasts an expansive menu of things to do, from dancing and fast-paced sports to foodie delights and arty wonders.

MIND FOOD Culture plays an important role in the daily life of locals, with a heavy emphasis on long-standing performance arts, including dance shows, films, theatrical endeavours, and an interesting selection of sports. In July, the annual Heiva I Tahiti festival brings the island to life. More than just a

summer source of fun, the festival is imbued with centuries of Polynesian culture, from traditional dances to age-old rituals and a long line of fascinating heritage. Each performance has a near-operatic sense of drama, with highlights such as a 50-strong orchestra featuring vivo flutes and marine shells, and a flurry of traditional sporting events such as outrigger canoe racing and stone lifting. For something a little more adrenalininducing, there’s the Heiva Va’a (www.ftvaa. pf). Set against the picture-perfect scenery of Papeete Harbour, this outrigger canoe race churns up the deep sea channel between Tahiti and Moorea. In a fine show of fist-clenching, edge-of-the-seat sportsmanship, several local teams paddle their way through thick swells and aggressive winds to the other side, all while donning traditional pareos and colourful, flower head crowns. The FIFO: Pacific International Documentary Film Festival (www.fifotahiti.org) brings a heavy dose of cinematic excellence to the island. Each year, producers and directors flock to the paradise shores for the film festival, round table discussions, and workshops. The event culminates in a short film night at the Te Fare Tauhiti Nui Cultural Center, where movie stars mingle with filmmakers from right across the Pacific.

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Get lost and be found For the traveler in pursuit of an extraordinary all-inclusive luxury experience, we introduce The Brando. A culturally authentic getaway and world-class example of biodiversity and sustainable hospitality on Tetiaroa, a South Pacific island renewal.

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Left: Organic polynesian produce is used as a base for creative French cuisine (photo © D Hazama); above: a typical welcome ‘lei’ being made, with flowers and colour playing a very important role in the daily lives of all Polynesians (photo © Tahiti Tourisme/ Raymond Sahuquet).

SAVOURY TO SWEET While Tahiti is most famous for its natural beauty, it’s increasingly becoming known for its culinary offerings. Les roulettes are a must-do foodie attraction for any visitor to the island. The roadside food trucks serve up all sorts of savoury and sweet treats, from pizzas and burgers to crepes and waffles, right into the small hours of the morning with live music providing a lively soundtrack to the quintessential Papeete experience. For something a little fancier, try Restaurant Le Lotus (tahiti.intercontinental.com/ le-lotus-restaurant), an overwater restaurant at the InterContinental hotel. Light lunches are served during the day, while a creative menu and handpicked wine are the perfect accompaniments to the twinkling lights of Tahiti’s night. Gourmands won’t want to miss the Le Coco’s (lecocostahiti.com) experience. With an ever-changing menu based on

seasonal produce, the stylish waterfront restaurant – known as la maison au bord de l’eau, due to its prime location on Tahiti’s west coast – is leading the way for contemporary fine dining here.

SENSATIONAL STAYS As the birthplace of overwater bungalows, Tahiti leads the world in luxe island accommodation. The luxurious villas on stilts, located on the edge of luminous blue lagoons, combine Polynesian style with French sophistication to offer the ultimate in indulgence. Le Meridien Tahiti (lemeridientahiti. com) and Intercontinental Tahiti Resort (tahiti.intercontinental.com) boast overwater bungalows with views out over Tahiti’s bright blue lagoon to the jagged peaks of Moorea in the distance. Both resorts make use of this beautiful vista with stunning infinity pools.

There’s also Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort (tahitipearlbeach.pf/en) on the north east coast, with its endless views of Matavai Bay and access to the popular Lafayette black sand beach. The Manava Suite Resort Tahiti (spmhotels. com/resort) offers a truly Polynesian stay with rooms nestled amongst tropical gardens of ginger, frangipani and hibiscus and the largest infinity pool on the island – perfect for sunset cocktails. For more homely and intimate encounters with Tahiti, there are pensions located all over the island. Similar to the laidback vibe of a guest house, they’re often family-run and offer a more affordable and authentic Polynesian experience. Ahitea Lodge (www.ahitea-lodge. com/en) is set in the heart of Papeete, while the Fare Suisse (fare-suisse.com/english/) is tucked away further inland, and the Pension Fifi (www. pensionfifi.pf) offers a comfortable, casual place for budget-conscious travellers. MAGAZINE

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MANAVA SUITE RESORT TAHITI

MOOREA PEARL RESORT & SPA

BORA BORA PEARL BEACH RESORT & SPA

TIKEHAU PEARL BEACH RESORT

HANGAROA ECO VILLAGE & SPA

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ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES Tahiti is a mesmerising postcard that leaves deep, lasting impressions on those who visit. While it’s often on the hit list of honeymooners, the island also has a lot for discerning explorers. The combination of unrivalled natural beauty, authentic culture and some of the best diving, snorkelling, hiking and mountain-biking in the South Pacific make it an appealing destination for active travellers. Culture buffs will love the Polynesian dance shows, art exhibitions and lingering culture from centuries-old traditions and rituals. Surrounding everything are lush volcanic mountain peaks and coral reefs teeming with life, and crystalclear lagoons. Tahiti is the world’s pre-eminent island destination.

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Below: Hundreds of the world’s best paddlers compete in the Hawaiki Nui Va’a each year (photo © Christian Durocher); bottom: Mt Otemanu on Bora Bora is an icon for the Islands of Tahiti (photo © Kirklandphotos).

Further Information Tahiti Tourisme Australia tahitinow.com.au

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Above: Tahitian dancers welcome guests with beautiful flowers.

DéjeunerTahitien

PRETTY as a picture WHAT: A TAHITI-INSPIRED LUNCH FOR THE TRAVEL TRADE. Where: Park Hyatt, The Rocks Sydney Who: Travel agents and industry professionals from South Pacific Management, Tahiti Tourisme, Air Tahiti Nui, Vittoria Coffee and la Maison du Thé. Highlights: Tropical flavours gently infused each course, from the kingfish carpaccio entrée with papaya, coriander and passionfruit dressing, to the dessert of spiced pineapple, mango granite and coconut crumble. Stunning flowers and views across to the Opera House completed the scene.

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Top and above: Atout France Director, Patrick Benhamou, with Tahitian Vahine dancers; Makayla from Tahiti played the ukulele, entertaining the crowd.

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Clockwise from top: Tahitian girls dancing during the lunch; the Atout France team in front of the Sydney Opera House; beautiful tropical blooms on each table; Wolfie Pizem and Sonia Lefebre; Michel Carriol with Vaea from Tahiti; representatives of Tahiti Tourisme, South Pacific Management, Tahiti Travel Connection, and Air Tahiti Nui.

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Connecting your World.

Sydney Melbourne Brisbane

Auckland

Tahiti

Los Angeles

Paris

www.airtahitinui.com

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Hyatt Dinner date

French SOIRÉE WHAT: TWO SENSATIONAL DINNERS HOSTED FOR THE TRAVEL TRADE AND MEDIA, TO SHOWCASE SEVEN OF THE HYATT GROUP’S STUNNING PROPERTIES. DINNER WAS PREPARED BY MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF JEANFRANÇOIS ROUQUETTE, FROM THE LEGENDARY PALACE PARK HYATT VENDÔME.

Above: Geraldine Dielenberg, Joerg Leser and Nayla Edwards. Right: Kelly Suhr, Patrick Benhamou of Atout France, and Wivina Chaneliere.

Left: Michel Jauslin, Nicolas Croizer and Christophe Lecourtier.

Where: The Guesthouse at Park Hyatt Sydney, and The Residence at Grand Hyatt Melbourne Who: Partners for both events were Air France, Hyatt Hotels and Resorts, Vittoria La Maison du Thé, Lancôme and G. H. Mumm. Highlights: The event offered an intimate glimpse of guest life inside the Hyatt’s exclusive addresses in Paris, Cannes and Nice, frequented by the likes of Roger Federer, George Clooney and other A-listers.

Above: Deborah Alampi. Above right: Les Schirato with a cup of his famous coffee.

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Roadshow

East Side STORY WHAT: A SEMINAR AND WORKSHOP FOR 200 TRAVEL AGENTS HELD BACK-TOBACK IN SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE, TO COMMUNICATE THE ALSACE, BURGUNDY AND CHAMPAGNE REGIONS.

Pyramid of Burgundy mustard from iconic brand, Fallot & Co.

Where: Sofitel Wentworth Sydney and Sofitel Melbourne on Collins Who: Partners for both events were Alsace Tourism Board, Burgundy Tourism Board, Champagne Tourism Board, Air France, Rail Plus, French Travel Connection, AccorHotels, G.H. Mumm, Perrier Jouet, Vintec, GJ Food, Edouard Artzner Foie Gras, Vittoria Coffee and Sofitel Hotels. Highlights: The event featured the launch of new French products and a French Travel Connection package, along with a deliciously French three-course dinner by Boris Cuzon.

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Clockwise from top: Anaïs in a traditional Alsace costume; foie gras from the region; inspecting Air France’s uniforms and new business class seating; Philippe Choukroun, Brad McDonnell, Léa Granado and Jean-Christophe Harrang.

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Sizzle

Barbecue, camera ACTION Top: Bridie Commerford. Left: Marie and Robert Lusby; Marion and Ian MacRitchie.

WHAT: PRIVATE SCREENING OF BARBECUE, A FRENCH FILM ABOUT FOOD, LOVE, WINE AND FRIENDSHIP. Where: Dendy Cinemas, Opera Quays Who: Over 250 members of Sydneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s French community gathered to enjoy G.H. Mumm champagne and original pastries for the event, hosted in partnership with Tefal, Lancome, G.H. Mumm, British Airways, AccorHotels and Tempo Holidays.

Clockwise from far left: Red, white and blue macarons; the Atout France Sydney team; generous flutes of G.H. Mumm champagne.

Highlights: The audience paid tribute to the tragic terrorist events of last November, with several moving speeches and a display of the French flag projected against the Opera House.

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Citadines Apart’hotel offers a unique stay concept in the heart of major cities supported with a wide choice of personalised hotel-style services. Staying with Citadines offers you flexibility and independence. Want to cook your favourite meal? Stay for a night? A month? It’s your choice. Experience independent city living in more than 60 Citadines properties in the world, including 30 properties in France (16 in Paris).

www.citadines.com

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Citadines Apart’hotel is managed by The Ascott Limited, a member of CapitaLand. It is the largest international serviced residence owner-operator with more than 250 properties in over 90 cities across the Americas, Asia Pacific, Europe and the Gulf region. It operates three award-winning brands Ascott, Citadines and Somerset.

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Books

What weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re READING

hat do awardwinning chefs cook on their nights off? And what if those nights off involve preparing a feast for glamorous friends? This lovingly curated book has been a long time in the making, and the wait is worth it. Following the success of their first book, Food for Friends, Guillaume and Sanchia Brahimi once again share their favourite big-hearted, full-flavoured food with a combination of personal family favourite recipes, and menus inspired by the families of friends. On the home front are relaxed, easy meals designed to satisfy a busy and hungry household, such as crispy potato cakes with speck, garlic and thyme, or chicken risotto with peas and lemon.

Left: Guillaume with Sarah Murdoch. Top right: the new hardback title Right: duck ragout with green olives and coriander (photos ÂŠ Anson Smart and Earl Carter).

On the entertaining front, Guillaume presents sensational meals dedicated to a range of celebrity hosts. From a laidback lunch at the harbourside home of restaurateur Justin Hemmes, to an Argentinian-inspired barbecue for AFL head Gillon McLachlan and a hearty winter luncheon hosted by actor Cate Blanchett, Guillaume celebrates home entertaining with originality and verve. True to character, the book is peppered with cooking tips that make it easy for home cooks everywhere to share incredible food with their loved ones. Guillaume: Food for family, Guillaume Brahimi Photography by Anson Smart and Earl Carter. Lantern, RRP $79.99 All royalties from the book will support the National Breast Cancer Foundation. MAGAZINE

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Preview

IF IMPRESSIONISM IS CAUSING A BUZZ IN FRANCE THIS FALL, IT ALSO INSPIRED BESTSELLING AUSTRALIAN AUTHOR SARAH TURNBULL TO START HER NEXT BOOK. WE CAUGHT UP WITH HER FOR A SNEAK PREVIEW.

t was one evocative painting of three little boys inspecting a crab on a French beach that did it. Ambitious young journalist Sarah Turnbull was in Brittany, to review an Impressionist exhibition for The Bulletin, and the year was 1996. “This painting of the artist’s sons jumped out at me, with its blaze of blue, gold and ochre colours,” Turnbull recalls of the moment that led to her decades-long fascination with its creator, Australian-born painter John Peter Russell. Fast-forward to 2016, and Turnbull is midway through an intimate historical novel 134

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inspired by Russell, who lived in France for almost 30 years from the late 19th century. “Historical fiction is new territory for me, but this book explores many themes of my earlier work – such as identity, France, Paris, art and coming home,” she explains. “The Australia that Russell eventually returned to was not much interested in French Impressionism, and for decades here he was forgotten.” Turnbull’s book will draw on extensive research and much personal experience in France. “Historical fiction is controversial, especially when the protagonist is a real person. Russell was close friends with many of the biggest names in art – Rodin, Van Gogh, Monet and others – so these all have to be researched and portrayed accurately, too.” The book will also draw on her extended recent sojourn in Brittany’s Belle Île, where Russell endlessly painted the wild Atlanticfacing coast, until the untimely death of his beloved wife, Mariana, in 1908.

Author Sarah Turnbull, whose memoir ‘Almost French’ was a bestseller after its release in 2002.

“I stayed right next door to the cottage Russell first rented on the island, and my landlady loved his work. Her house was filled with posters of his paintings,” she recalls. Days were spent jogging along the cliffs where the artist loved to walk and paint, chatting with local historians, exploring the island and eating crêpes. Due out next year, the book’s completion comes just over 100 years after Russell’s prolific period at Belle Île came to an end. Further Information Turnbull will create a Facebook page later this year with more details. UW4211

Love & vistas of BELLE ÎLE

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Uniworld’s Connoisseur Collection When unrivalled luxury, exceptional service, extraordinary cuisine and nautical excellence come together, the result is unmistakably Uniworld. Offering an all-inclusive river cruise experience on innovative, one-of-a-kind ships, Uniworld’s attention to detail and personalised experiences allow guests to simply relax and enjoy sailing along France’s waterways. Uniworld’s Connoisseur Collection, which explores the world of French cuisine with exclusive, culinary-inspired excursions and events both onboard and onshore. Highlights include a visit to La Couronne restaurant, where Julia Child had her first French meal, an exclusive food and wine pairing meal at Château de Cazneuve in the Bordeaux region, a visit to a local truffle farm in Drome Provençale and a delectable onboard wine and Valrhona chocolate pairing. These exclusive experiences are available on select departures throughout the year.

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Contact Uniworld on 1300 780 231, or visit uniworld.com, or contact your preferred Travel Agent

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Catriona Rowntree

Things I LOVE ABOUT FRANCE

A TRAVEL WRITER FOR 19 YEARS AND COUNTING, CATRIONA ROWNTREE IS BEST KNOWN FOR HER ROLE AS PRESENTER OF CHANNEL NINE’S GETAWAY. SHE’S ALSO A MOTHER OF TWO, A SCENIC AMBASSADOR AND A GREAT FAN OF FRENCH CULTURE.

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Favourite regional visit? The Camargue. From flamingos and horses to history, and its own fashion and interior styles, this region is extraordinary.

Favourite attraction in Paris? Am I among friends? Good, as I wouldn’t normally reveal this, but I love a gift shop. The Musee D’Orsay has incredible art, exhibitions and restaurants.... and its gift shop, wow!

Best restaurant in Paris? Many moons ago, I was urged to have a hot chocolate at Angelina near Hotel Crillon. I did, and still am in love with everything there, from its interiors to the people-watching.

Best performance? Late one night in Rouen, we saw a spine-tingling son et lumiere display, projected against the famous cathedral. It had the crowds gobsmacked.

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Highlights of Scenic river cruises in France? Hmm, let me see. Scenic are the best in the biz, we sample France in an intimate, personalised way and you stay on a gorgeous ship. What’s not to love?

Looking forward to in 2016? This is my 20th year filming for Getaway, sharing my journey with people who love travel as I do. Travel and indeed France is infinite. Just get out there and enjoy it!

Favourite French travel memory? Arriving early at Monet’s garden in Giverny, when I was able to talk with the head gardener for ages. Photo © RossCoffey MAGAZINE

Favourite ever place to stay? Auberge du Jeu de Paume in Chantilly. It backs onto the castle gardens, which my mum and I had run out of time to see. So at dusk the concierge let us through a secret gate and said, ‘‘Shhh, be back in two hours and enjoy.’’ Such incredible service.

Top restaurant outside Paris? In a tiny street in the heart of St Tropez, you’ll find Cristina Saulini. Seafood that’s sumptuous; true St Tropez chic.

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Best weekend stay in France? I loved being in St Tropez recently. We shopped, swam, played Boules with the locals and sipped Pastis. It was just divine.

Go to France before you go to France. www.france.fr

airfrance.com.au LOGO AIRFRANCE Nยบ dossier : 2007399E Date : 28/11/08

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