Rendez vous en france 2017 club med by Rendezvous

N U MÃ&#x2030; R O 6 2 0 1 7

tee OFF

for the RYDER CUP in France

LE MAGAZINE

Lifestyle

CHAMPAGNE: Message in a Bottle

Culture

MARSEILLE: European Capital of Sports

Destination

ROLAND GARROS: Chic on Clay

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LIFESTYLE

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I GOURMET

I ACCOMMODATION

I DESTINATION I PORTRAIT

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T H E

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A B S O L U T E

F E M I N I N I T Y

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Photography by Warren & Nick

PERRIER-JOUËT, THE ALLURING CHAMPAGNE Since its foundation in 1811, the champagne house Perrier-Jouët has crafted elegant, floral wines of rare finesse with a Chardonnay hallmark. The elegance of the cuvees echoes that of the Art Nouveau anemones adorning the Belle Epoque bottle and offers moments of pure delight and beauty. www.perrier-jouet.com

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My Magni f ique Voyages

Travel through the Sofitel Collection

Vienna, Los Angeles, Dubai, Bangkok... Discover our

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magnif ique addresses in over 40 countries at www.sofitel.com

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Why make coffee when you can

nespresso.com/creatista

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The new Nespresso Creatista lets you enjoy cafĂŠ-style quality coffee. With a fully-automatic steam wand, you can now create perfectly textured milk set to your preferred temperature, at home.

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H I S T O R Y

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From the Editor

THE TEAM AT RENDEZ-VOUS EN FRANCE LOVES SPORT – LAST WEEK, WE WERE OUT SEVEN

Above: Atout France team in the colours of Monaco, from left to right – Anais, Sarah, Lucie, Claire, Charline and Garance. Inset: Atout France director, Patrick Benhamou, ready for some F1 action.

Just outside of Paris lie the world-class

many high-profile sports events come

golf courses in Saint Quentin en Yvelines and

to France that we’ve dedicated this

Marne la Vallée, respectively the sites of the

entire issue to just that – sport.

2018 Ryder Cup and Junior Ryder Cup – the

Whether you’re more inclined to

subject of this year’s cover image.

cheer from the sidelines or get active

To get active yourself, you’re spoiled for

yourself, this 144-page edition is jam-packed

choice – skiing, cycling, boating, surfing and

with ideas.

horse riding are just some of the activities

We start in Paris, where a newly renovated

you’ll find across the country. We’ve compiled

Roland Garros stadium will welcome record

the very best choices for you, plus all our

crowds for the French Open, only days after

recommendations for post-workout pampering

Paris is engulfed with cycling fans vying to

– whether you’re into fine food, luxe spas,

see the world’s most elite cyclists complete

inspiring arts or designer stays. Bon voyage.

their iconic sprint up the Champs-Élysées. But you might also be in town for the men’s world handball or ice hockey championships this year, or the Gay Games in 2018. Regardless, you’ll want to complete your Paris experience

SERIOUSLY, THOUGH, 2017 IS

with a stay in some of the world’s most

SPORTING EVENTS TO

P O R T R A I T

n fact, the next two years will see so

NIGHTS RUNNING. JOKE. SET TO PRESENT A FEAST OF

intimate and innovative hotels, or by sampling top restaurants, shops and galleries. You’ll find

Patrick Benhamou Director Atout France in Australia France Tourism Development Agency patrick.benhamou@atout-france.fr

plenty of inspiration in these pages.

TRAVELLERS IN FRANCE. MAGAZINE

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38 RENDEZ-VOUS EN FRANCE 2017 DIRECTOR OF PUBLICATIONS Christian Mantei EDITOR Stephanie Oley SUBEDITOR Charlotte Fish PUBLISHER Peter Berman CONTRIBUTORS Danielle Bricker, Ruby Boukabou, Toni Gardyne, Lizzie Davey, Sally Hammond, Susan Gough Henley, Gretchen Holm, Sophie Ibbotson, Adrianne Young Cover photograph© Tony Kelly / Trunk Archive / Snapper Media Printed in China ATOUT FRANCE AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND France Tourism Development Agency Editorial, Production and Sales Team: Patrick Benhamou, Sophie Almin, Noémie Dupic, Apolline Pierre, Sarah Elfassy, Anais Leloup, Charly Bongiorno, Marc Humphries, Jémifer Gagli, Caroline Dandurand, Lucie Leparquier. L13, 25 Bligh Street Sydney NSW 2000 Australia T: +61 2 9231 5243 F:+ 61 2 9221 8682 www.france.fr

Become our Facebook fan www.facebook.com/AtoutFranceAU Follow us on Twitter twitter.com/AUNZ_FranceFR Watch new content on YouTube www.youtube.com/user/RendezvousenFrance

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30 |

L I F E S T Y L E

A C C O M M O D A T I O N

14 Nice A natural high

69 Hyatt Arts in residence

16 L’Occitane Beauty with heart

70 Boutique Hotel Magical Paris hideaways

18 Marseille The winning formula

78 Terre Blanche Splendour on the green

21 Monaco Style and substance

| HERITAGE & HISTORY |

30 Tennis Slam into France

80 Northern France Paths of glory

36 New-Aquitaine Wonderful west

84 Arras Kiss of remembrance

38 Bordeaux A glass apart

88 Flanders In Flanders fields

43 Brittany Body and soul

92 Golf Easy Ryder

G O U R M E T

C O V E R

S T O R Y

50 Air France Sky is the limit

108 Ski Winter wonderland

52 Champagne Winner takes it all

60 Dijon Spice of life

123 Tahiti This island life

D E S T I N A T I O N

128 New Caledonia Postcard from paradise

MAGAZINE

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State-of-the-Art Wine Cellars

Introducing the new Transtherm ‘Prestige’ Range

10 YEAR

A+ BODY WARRANTY

67%

For minimalist look, professional handle can be removed.

UP TO LESS ENERGY*

New ‘CASTEL’ 3-Zone

The Professional Wine Storage Choice For Your Home label certifying that a product is of French origin

*compared to previous range, based on room temperature of 25°C.

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Discover the new ‘Prestige’ range: transtherm.com.au

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Nice

A natural HIGH BEING ACTIVE IN NICE INVOLVES SO MUCH MORE THAN STRETCHING LAZILY IN A BARDOT-ESQUE BIKINI. THE CITY’S MAGNIFICENT HILLY SETTING, DRAMATIC COASTLINE AND CYCLE-FRIENDLY STRETCHES OFFER YEAR-ROUND ENJOYMENT, WRITES RUBY BOUKABOU.

he stunning Côte d’Azur city of Nice boasts 300 days of sunshine a year, a proximity to sea and mountains, a relaxed beachymeets-city vibe and exceptionally fresh Mediterranean cuisine. Nice is indeed a very nice addition to your French holiday itinerary. This Riviera destination is the place to stay mobile in the most chilled out manner while awakening your senses. During your stay in Nice, there’s no need to get out of town to get active. There are dozens of ways to keep the pace up in local style. Roller-skate down the palm tree-lined seaside boulevard Promenade des Anglais, or hotfoot it to the beach and dive into the salty freshness to cool off and swim out. Stride up the 214 steps to Castle Hill for the panoramic view of the city and glorious Bay of Angels. Explore the Old Town and Cours Saleya for some shopping, and pick up a Frenchy chic outfit for your evening at one of the local clubs. Here, discover local and international DJs with some dance floor fun. For those seeking a serious cardio challenge, the Ironman competition happens in July and the Nice-Cannes Marathon in November. For a more festive and less gruelling event, participate in the 130-year-old Nice Carnival in February, when one million-plus happy punters warm up the Riviera winter. 14

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Clockwise from top: View of Nice’s famous Baie des Anges promenade and port (photo © OTCN/A Issock); shopping at Place Massena (photo © J Kelagopian); skiing at Stations du Mercantour (photo © Robert Palomba).

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TIME TO DINE With the refined quality of French cuisine combined with the local seafood and flavoursome Italian influences, expect fresh fish, tasty vegetables, delicate sauces and sublime desserts. There are hundreds of exceptional restaurants to choose from, including these favourites. Restaurant Le Chantecler (www.hotelnegresco-nice.com/en) – At this elegant dining room in Nice’s iconic Hotel Negresco, enjoy exceptional cuisine by two Michelin-star chef, Jean-Denis Rieublan. Take your time and dream an old-world scenario while sipping champagne and tasting Rieublan’s specialties, such as the entrée of crab and mangoes cannelloni. Restaurant Olive et Artichaut (www. oliveartichaut.com) – Enjoy Provençal cuisine in the heart of the old town with the most succulent of fresh flavours. The vibe is cool and contemporary, and the charm includes watching the chefs at work while you suck down the heavenly entrées and tasty cocktails. Try to book well in advance. Restaurant La Pescheria (www.nice. boscolohotels.com) – In a very chic five-star hotel location, chef Giuseppe Mandaradoni prepares stunning Italian specialties and seafood. That includes Sicilian shrimp, pasta with mussels, catch of the day, and top-of-therange wines to match. Simply sensational. Restaurant Le Safari (www.restaurantsafari. fr/en) – This is the place to discover Niçois cuisine in a relaxed, family-friendly ambiance. There is no doubt that the dishes are made with love, and the best local produce. Your senses will be dancing even before you have your first bite – the restaurant is located just by the local flower market.

NEARBY PURSUITS After lunch, set sail off the coast. Enjoy the luxury of dolphin spotting and get up close and personal with a wakeboard or paddle boat. Always wanted to try parasailing? Now’s your chance. Get on a natural high with the fresh, salty air and dazzling blue seas. If you’re visiting in the colder months, you can also hit the slopes. Less than an hour from the coast are peaks of over 2,000 metres above sea level and for cross-country skiers, there are 700 kilometres of Alpes-Maritimes slopes. Enjoy nature at its most beautiful, with the glory of blue skies and sunny days. Bon voyage! Further Information Nice Tourisme www.nicetourisme.com MAGAZINE

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L I F E S T Y L E

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Provence

H E R I T A G E

‘‘L’Occitane’s company culture is amazing – the people there are the happiest I’ve ever met,’’ says Sami.

Beauty with HEART

WHAT’S THE SECRET OF A GREAT BEAUTY BRAND? ACCORDING TO L’OCCITANE BRAND AMBASSADOR, MEDIA PERSONALITY SAMI LUKIS, THE SECRET LIES IN ITS AUTHENTIC INGREDIENTS, INCREDIBLE PEOPLE AND REAL RESULTS.

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ou can always find beauty in truth. Take the true story of a certain southern-French beauty brand, for instance. From the first sales of its handmade goods at a Provençal market stall back in 1976, L’Occitane has gone from strength to strength, garnering international acclaim and a devoted following. Today that truth remains at the core of L’Occitane’s appeal, says Sami Lukis, brand ambassador and ardent fan. “Every product contains the essence of Provence, and has done so ever since founder Olivier Baussan sold his first essential oils at the market in Forcalquier.”

FROM ROOTS TO BLOSSOMS L’Occitane began to take shape when founder Olivier Baussan set out to revive the traditional art of Marseille-soap making, setting up his business in that city, in a tiny disused factory. Passionate about the therapeutic qualities of plants, Baussan soon expanded his product range with a selection of hand-distilled natural oils. Over the next few years, Baussan travelled the world, his vision driving him to seek out new ways to extract beautifying essences from plants. Of course, the rest is history. In 1981 L’Occitane opened its first store in Volx, Provence, and today the brand is a global force.

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Many people are familiar with the brand’s signature products, especially the Hand Cream, for which the company ethically sources shea butter from women’s cooperatives in Burkina Faso. Other favourites include the Divine Cream, an anti-ageing treatment that contains immortelle flowers from Corsica, and Almond Milk Veil, a body lotion that contains almond oil from Provence.

PROOF IN THE PUDDING L’Occitane’s results are as real as the ingredients behind them, as Lukis’s involvement proves. “My role as a L’Occitane brand ambassador is accidental,” she explains. “I’d been using its hand cream for more than 20 years, and when I launched my bespoke New York tours six years ago, I included it in a goody bag for my clients. “That led to L’Occitane becoming our official supplier. Then they sent samples from the Divine range, and I couldn’t believe the visible results my skin showed within a week.” Further cementing Lukis’s relationship with L’Occitane was a shared passion for business with a social conscience. The brand is famous for its philanthropic and environmental endeavours, which are so numerous they’ve earned their own hashtag, #truestories. Lukis has also supported charitable causes throughout her career. As a veteran of Australian radio and television (frontline roles include being co-host of Nova 96.9’s toprated breakfast show with Merrick & Rosso), she’s developed some valuable people skills. “I’m a communicator by nature, so if I can use that to attract sponsors, people and publicity to a good cause, then I will,” she says with feeling. A case in point is last year’s Emerald Ball, which Lukis hosted. The event raised a record $711,800 to fund the rehabilitation of kids with disabilities at The Children’s Hospital at Westmead.

SAMI’S WELLBEING SECRETS A self-described gypsy, Lukis is relishing her freedom after a high-powered career of two decades. Still, she’ll stay busy with year-round speaking engagements and travel, much of it for her tour company. Her current plans include trips to Austria, Italy, Cuba, New York and Mykonos within just a few months. So how does she stay looking fresh? “My beauty regimen is simple: I use Immortelle Precious Cleansing Foam morning and night, and then apply generous layers of Divine Harmony Serum, including my elbows, knees and décolletage,” says Lukis. The occasional four-week Divine Renewal Program works a treat, too. She bolsters this routine with plenty of exercise and lots of smiles courtesy of family, friends and her Beauceron, dog, Lolli. As for L’Occitane’s men’s range, Lukis is spreading the word. “I recently gave some Cade Shaving Cream to my 70-year-old dad, and he

couldn’t believe how enjoyable it was!” she laughs. What tops her wellness wish list? “Having experienced L’Occitane’s spas near Forcalquier and in Western Australia, I’d love to see a Sydney spa open. The treatments are like nothing else.”

Clockwise from top: Lavender field in Provence (photo © Atout France/Phovoir); the results-rich Crème Divine; L’Occitane’s spa in Subiaco, Perth.

Further Information L’Occitane au.loccitane.com New York with Sami www.samilukis.com MAGAZINE

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L I F E S T Y L E

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H E R I T A G E

Marseille

The WINNING formula

AS THE OLDEST FRENCH CITY, MARSEILLE BOASTS 2,600 YEARS OF HISTORY. YET SCORES OF NEW DEVELOPMENTS AND A CALENDAR OF COMPELLING EVENTS SHAKE OFF ANY SUGGESTION OF DUSTINESS. BY LIZZIE DAVEY

n case you hadn’t noticed, Marseille is making its mark, on the Med, on Europe, and on the world. The city’s dynamic personality and proud identity make it tougher than many of its Provençal counterparts – and Marseille is capitalising on its new-found strengths. Since its 2013 stint as a European Capital of Culture, Marseille has become a key player in the Mediterranean. A multibillion-Euro redevelopment scheme has brought beauty and functionality to the downtown area and surrounds, which feature sleek new tramlines, landmark architectural works, pedestrian thoroughfares and larger green areas. Even more evolution is on the horizon, including a series of futuristic skyscrapers and a revival of the old maritime quartier, La Joliette, as a business district. For locals and visitors, it’s an exciting time: France’s second-largest city has become an intriguing mix of old and new, a place where history and modernity meet by the sea.

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A FASCINATING FUSION Central to Marseille’s identity, the ancient Vieux-Port is a bustling spot and, fortunately, still intact. Here you can buy freshly caught seafood and admire the buildings’ opulent façades. The old port lies next to the equally historic neighbourhood of Le Panier, whose inviting laneways, intimate squares and arty stores make it perfect for a wander. You’ll want to explore this area because it’s the city’s oldest district: the entire waterfront reflects 26 centuries of history, and the forts flanking the harbour comprise both Roman and medieval architectural styles. Newer attractions include MuCEM, the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations, which houses all things anthropological, archaeological, ethnographic and historical (including art). The design of this imposing waterfront edifice, which is the work of architect Rudy Ricciotti, draws on an exotic blend of Mediterranean influences. Close by, the renovated République quartier brims with chic new boutiques and cutting-edge buildings, some of which are the creations of leading international architects Norman Foster and the late Zaha Hadid. Marseille is also becoming increasingly fashion-conscious. Today you can shop at numerous glass-fronted malls; stores selling handmade artisanal goods; and sprawling flea markets full of old and new wares. All this is happening alongside a flourishing food scene, as creative chefs give local menus a delicious lift. In the words of ‘La Marseillaise’, le jour de gloire est arrivé!

A WINNING YEAR This year Marseille adds another notch to its belt by confirming its status as a sporting destination. As the European Capital of Sport for 2017, the city takes on a new dimension – scores of new sports facilities and events ensure that sports fans will have a blast, whether they favour conventional events, extreme excitement or wacky entertainment. In July, Marseille will host the penultimate stage of the Tour de France; the RollerSoccer Club World Cup comes to town in August; and in September, outdoor types will head for the Urban Elements Series. This includes a number of adventurous events, such as slacklining, along with film screenings and music sessions. In October, you can attend the World DanceSport Federation Championship and the inauguration of the Grand Stage of Athletics. November and December continue the action with the Men’s WSF World Team Squash Championships; the International Taekwondo Gala; the Night of Champions, a boxing competition; and La Corrida Du Vieux-Port, a fun-filled run in which

costumed participants race to close out the year. The Marseille tourism website is packed with maps, calendars and guides (such as walking tours), ensuring that your stay takes advantage of everything the city is delivering in 2017 and beyond.

Opposite, from top: The Orange Vélodrome, site of big-ticket concerts and sporting fixtures alike (photo © VdM); the Tour de France peloton passes Marseille’s coast in 2016 (photo © ASO/B Baude).

Further Information Marseille Tourism www.marseille-tourisme.com MAGAZINE

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Above: Contemporary cast-iron lace at the outdoor terrace of MuCEM.

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Monaco

STYLE and substance STEEPED IN ELEGANCE, THE TINY PRINCIPALITY OF MONACO BRINGS VISITORS FACE TO FACE WITH AN UNFORGETTABLE JET-SET GLAMOUR AGAINST A GLITTERING MEDITERRANEAN BACKDROP. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

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Previous page: Aerial view of Monaco’s Port Hercule (photo © Monaco Press Centre Photos). Above: Wine and dine at Hotel de Paris’ Salle Empire restaurant with stunning views of the Place du Casino (photo © SBM Monte-Carlo).

hile Monaco is the second smallest independent city state in the world (after the Vatican), the tiny 2.8-square kilometre principality is no small player when it comes to big experiences. It’s rather like a fairytale city meets spy movie set, complete with princess, James Bond locations and plenty of bling. It’s a compelling destination for the suave, celeb and business traveller. You’ll want to book that helicopter (www.monacair.mc/en). Monegasques are proud of their elegant Riviera location, with its 300 days of sunshine a year and a chilled yet very chic art de vivre. As a result, their diverse calendar of events will appeal to both locals and tourists. See opposite for some highlights over the coming year.

THREE DAYS IN MONACO If coming for one of the events, make sure to book in an extra night or three to appreciate the natural, classic and cultural offerings of this Mediterranean jewel. Start your days with a dip in the sea or some laps in an Olympic-sized harbour pool. After juice and coffee in a café overlooking the sea, your 22

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options include jet skiing, parasailing and flyboating. Or visit the Oceanographic Museum, with its shark lagoon and contemporary art space (www. oceano.mc/en). Every day at 11:55am, catch the changing of the guard at the Prince’s Palace and waft through the Mirror Gallery, under the Venetian chandeliers, and alongside 16th century frescoes. Listen to mass with a choir and grand organ at 10am every Sunday at the Roman-Byzantine style Monaco Cathedral, built in 1875 from luminous white stone. Or visit anytime to see where Prince Rainier and Princess Grace were married and are now buried. Or, keeping in the spy flick mood, hire a Porsche for a cruise along the dizzying corniche. Relax with a bit of greenery at the botanical Exotic Gardens or in the serene Princess Grace Rose Garden, heady with the perfume of over 8,000 rose bushes. At night, swing by the belle-époque MonteCarlo Casino, designed by architect Charles Garnier of Paris Opera fame, and well known as a location for James Bond movie GoldenEye. Gambling not your thing? Simply goggle at the marble pillars, admire the gilded 10-tonne chandelier, and sample the martinis on the way to the opera at the

adjoining Salle Garnier, which opened in 1879 with a performance by Sarah Bernhardt. And of course, Monaco is a great destination for a spot of shopping and beauty treatments before dinner.

FEASTS AND FANCIES Now let’s get down to business: what’s to eat and drink? Plenty, actually. The principality may be tiny, but the choice of dining is certainly not. There are a couple of hundred establishments to choose from. Grab brunch at the Marché de la Condamine in Place d’Armes after shopping for olive oil, flowers and fresh fruit. At the first stand on the right, in the covered part of the market, you’ll find Maison Mullot, where you can buy the traditional pastry fougasse. Then try tasty regional dishes such as barbajuan (‘Uncle John’), a type of fritter stuffed with Swiss chard and ricotta, and stocafi, codfish with a spicy tomato sauce, vegetables and black olives. Monaco is also the place to splurge on some of the world’s best fine dining experiences. Start your evening at La Chaumière restaurant, with a colourful selection of cocktails and a ludicrously

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MONACO HIGHLIGHTS Fireworks Competition July – August 2017, Monaco The kids will love it; so will all the romantics out there. www.visitmonaco.com Sporting Summer Festival July – August 2017, Sporting Club The sport here is one of the best kinds – it takes place on the dance floor. This A-list music festival in the Salle des Etoiles (you’re literally under the stars when the roof opens) has hosted the likes of Rihanna, Jamie Callum and Peter Gabriel. www. montecarlolive.com/monte-carlo-sportingsummer-festival-en/ Symphony Concerts at the Palace July – August 2017 Symphony in the 14th-century courtyard of the Prince’s Palace with the MonteCarlo Philharmonic Orchestra. Divine! www.opmc.mc Monaco Yacht Show 27 – 30 September 2017, Port Hercule Admire more than 120 superb yachts at one of the only deep-water ports in the region, and a former Greek as well as Roman trading centre. www.monacoyachtshow.com Monte-Carlo International Circus Festival 18 – 28 January, 2018 Created by Prince Rainier III, who had been fascinated by circus arts as a child. www.montecarlofestival.mc/en/ Printemps des Arts March - April 2018 Inspiring dance, theatre, music and visual art modernised by the late Princess Grace. www.printempsdesarts.com Monte-Carlo Rolex Masters April 2018 A glamorous tennis tournament held in the legendary Monte-Carlo Country Club. www.monte-carloexmasters.com Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix Third weekend, May 2018 Possibly the most prestigious automobile race in the world, held since 1929. www.monaco-grand-prix.com/en International Show Jumping June 2018, Monte-Carlo World-class horse show on the dazzling Monte-Carlo harbour. www.jumpingmonaco.com

Top: Condamine Market, brimming with fresh produce and local delights; bottom: the one and only Rolex Masters Tournament (both photos © Monaco Press Centre Photos).

amazing view of Monaco. There’s French super star chef Alain Ducasse’s three Michelin-star Le Louis XV at the Hôtel de Paris, featuring chef Dominique Lory’s Franco-Italian cuisine. Stay for live music at Le Bar Américain. Or book a table on the panoramic terrace at Michelin-starred Le Vistamar, specialising in topquality fish and vegetables, sublimely cooked under Benoît Witz’ expertise. Named chef of the century by the guidebook Gault Millau back in 1989, Joël Robuchon has a two Michelin-star restaurant in Monte-Carlo,

bearing his name and run by protégé, Paris-born Christophe Cussac. Try the 10-course discovery menu, prepared in full view of diners by an army of chefs in the open-plan kitchen. There’s also the Michelin-starred Elsa by Italian chef Paolo Sari, at the Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel, featuring terrific organic local produce. The Blue Bay with Marcel Ravin (yep, holding another Michelin star!) has a fantastic and surprising Mediterraneanmeets-Caribbean menu.

MAGAZINE

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Clockwise from above: Bask in sun at one of Monaco’s exclusive seaside spots; Mediterranean-Caribbean fusion at The Blue Bay (both photos © SBM Monte-Carlo).

SUBLIME STAYS Enhance your Monaco visit with an incredible hotel experience. Options include the private beach luxury hotel Le Méridien Beach Plaza (which even offers guests cooking classes); the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort; the Fairmont Monte-Carlo, with its beautiful rooftop pool and Formula One views.; and the exquisite Hotel Metropole (see hotels feature, page 77 ). For a movie-star experience, book at the Hôtel de Paris, whose famous guests have included Cary Grant, Rita Hayworth and Winston Churchill, along with more recent names such as Nelson Mandela and Michael Jackson. It’s undergoing an extensive revamp, and guests in 2018 can expect an even more impeccable experience.

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Sail PONANT

– It’s FRENCH for cruising OFFERING A CHIC FLEET OF COMPACT VESSELS, BOUTIQUE CRUISE SHIP OPERATOR PONANT IMBUES ITS SERVICE WITH A FRENCH JE NE SAIS QUOI, NORMALLY ASSOCIATED WITH HIGH CULTURE RATHER THAN THE HIGH SEAS.

rance has a long-held tradition of seafaring, a spirit that’s truly entrenched in Ponant, the only French-flagged cruise company in the world. Flouting the global cruising trend of operating larger and larger ships, in typically French fashion, Ponant takes another route. It specialises in small-ship luxury and expedition cruises, merging refinement with adventure in the ultimate modern-day voyages. 26

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PORTS OF CALL

CRUISING DOWN UNDER

Ponant’s menu of luxury yacht cruises and expeditions extend from its Mediterranean base in Marseille to the world’s furthest-flung tropical islands and ice caps. Voyages in Europe, the Americas, Africa, Asia, Oceania and even the Arctic and Antarctic start and finish in easy-to-reach ports. In between, guests can experience uncrowded destinations often inaccessible to larger ships. Spectacular historic sites, architectural wonders, artistic treasures, natural vistas and

Two of the current fleet, L’Austral and Le Soleal, have visited Australia and New Zealand recently, with itineraries that include the Sub Antarctic Islands (Expedition cruise), Great Barrier Reef (Yacht cruise), Solomon Islands and Papua New Guinea. In 2017, Ponant will send L’Austral into Australian waters for its inaugural season of Kimberley voyages, featuring an experienced Australian expedition team headed by Mick Fogg. The program continues in 2018.

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Discover Small Ship Cruising

AWAKEN YOUR SENSE OF WONDER

What better way to explore the World than sailing on board one of the intimate ships of PONANT, the only French cruise line. Aboard, you will feel this French Touch in the design and décor, but also in the service and gastronomy. Our carefully selected partners share this pursuit for the French standard of excellence. Enjoy a French lifestyle and refined adventure: unique comfort & service, Open Bar, sophisticated cuisine and fine wine. You will be delighted by Ladurée macarons for the afternoon tea, Lenôtre sweet pastries and bread, a selection of fine wines from Maison Taillevent and Veuve Clicquot champagne at gala dinners. Fragonard mood fragrances will accompany you throughout your journey, and you will find Hermes bath products in all cabins and suites. Fabrics by Pierre Frey will finally contribute to create a calming and discreet luxurious atmosphere. Our ships are designed to welcome aboard a limited number of passengers: there are 92 cabins on our new yachts Le Lapérouse and Le Champlain, 122 on Le Lyrial, 132 on Le Boréal, Le Soléal and L’Austral, and just 32 on Le Ponant. This philosophy allows you to easily access original and less crowded ports of call, guaranteeing an aura of exclusivity and attentive and personalised service… Call us to register to our information events in Australia. Book now by calling your Travel Agent or PONANT: 1300 737 178 reservations.aus@ponant.com - www.ponant.com

AFRICA • ALASKA • ANTARCTICA • ASIA • CARIBBEAN THE MEDITERRANEAN • NORTHERN EUROPE & THE BALTIC • NORTHERN & LATIN AMERICA OCEANIA • PACIFIC ISLANDS • THE ARCTIC

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Previous page: Sailing out of home port, Marseille (Ponant © Marie Fontrier). Above: Fine dining aboard the Le Lyrial (Ponant © Francois Lefebvre).

cultural experiences are highlights, along with Ponant’s signature dash of panache. The cruises are an indulgence for those who enjoy an afternoon siesta, comfortably settled on a sun lounge, their book and glass of Chablis always within lazy reach. But they’re equally compelling for intellectually curious travellers, who can intersperse the good life on board with captivating on-shore expeditions in a Zodiac, guided by specialists with an experienced eye for nature’s minutiae.

A C C O M M O D A T I O N

A BOUTIQUE OFFERING This is the youngest and most modern fleet of luxury and expedition ships in the world. Each of Ponant’s four compact sister ships features the very latest in maritime environmental technology, including 3D sonar for seabed vision, dynamic positioning systems to avoid dropping anchor in sensitive maritime environments, and electric propulsion for silent running and reduced emissions. In 2018, Ponant will welcome two newly constructed Explorer class luxury expedition ships, Le Laperouse and Le Champlain, smaller iterations of the current fleet. With just 92 staterooms and suites, all with private balcony, these intimate new vessels will also be packed

With just 132 staterooms and suites, 95 per cent with a private balcony, each of Ponant’s vessels promise French ambiance and refined service. French touches include spa therapy by Sothys, toiletries by Hermes, gourmet cuisine inspired by Alain Ducasse, Veuve Clicquot champagne at the Captain’s cocktails, and the daily selection of fine cheeses and freshly baked pastries. Your day of exploration can be followed by an evening of fine cuisine and wines, a relaxing post-dinner drink, and a live performance. The service is thoughtful yet discreet, the facili-

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Top: Whale-watching in the Antarctic (Ponant © Lorraine Turci); centre: sundeck on one of the new Ponant Explorer ships (Ponant © Stirling Design International); below: encountering new cultures with a specialist-led expedition (Ponant © Mick Fogg).

with the latest in maritime and environmental protection technology. Guest lecturers on small ship cruises and expeditions are selected for their expertise, providing fascinating lectures and valuable insights into the places visited. Thanks to their compact size and manoeuvrability, Ponant’s fleet can sail close to shore before launching their fleets of up to 14 Zodiacs. These hardy rubber floatation boats allow guests to explore bays, mudflats and mangroves, probe rivers and visit reefs for sightseeing, snorkelling or photography.

LUXURY ON BOARD

ties extensive and the overall experience undeniably civilised. Further Information Ponant au.ponant.com

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World Leader of Luxury Expeditions

INSPIRE YOUR SPIRIT

Uniquely, PONANT understands that the concepts of luxury cruising and expedition cruising are not mutually exclusive, offering a wide selection of itineraries that provide opportunity to meander through some of the most sublime historic and marine environments in the World. Our expeditions, appeal to inquisitive travellers keen to explore the rarely visited. From polar regions to tropical paradise, our expeditions are enhanced by knowledgeable lecturers and specialist expedition teams. Four compact yachts comprise the youngest fleet in the world, supplemented by a further four new expedition ships for delivery in 2018 and 2019. From only 92 to 132 oceanview suites and staterooms, almost all with private balcony, they exude understated elegance combined with French ambiance, outstanding gastronomy, inclusive fine wines and the comfort and facilities of a luxurious yacht. This is new wave expedition cruising.

Call us to register to our information events in Australia. Book now by calling your Travel Agent or PONANT: 1300 737 178 reservations.aus@ponant.com - www.ponant.com

ALASKA • ANTARCTICA • ASIA • LATIN AMERICA • OCEANIA & THE KIMBERLEY • PACIFIC ISLANDS • THE ARCTIC

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8 WAYS TO SEE THE FRENCH OPEN IN STYLE 1. Book in March – that’s when the first tickets go on sale. Be sure to read the rules around purchases, as admission is strictly limited to the person named on the ticket. 2. Book two consecutive days – since it’s hard to know which player will appear on which days, booking two consecutive days increases your likelihood of catching a player you’re interested in. 3. Pack a picnic – make like a local, and stock up on your favourite goodies from Paris’ magnificent food halls, cheese markets, bakeries and purveyors of fine champagne. 4. Keep it casual – save your formal jackets or heels; here it’s all about hip understatement. Streetwear trends for 2017 include couture hikers, unfinished hems, and old-school patches and pins.

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5. Prepare for any temperature – ideally you’ll be flaunting chic sunglasses and summery fashions, but there’s also the chance you’ll shiver through a freak cold or wet spell. Bring items for all weather. 6. Beat the paparazzi – join throngs of fans at the Eiffel Tower, and see all your favourite stars in dazzling party attire at the annual bash held days before the tournament. 7. Cruise every court– a show court ticket lets you access the 18 other courts outside the main stadium, and you might just catch glimpses of Rafa practicing alongside Novak on any of them. 8. Download the Roland-Garros app – this will place upcoming ticket info and alerts into the palm of your hand, and serve you up with realtime streamed results, video and radio.

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Main: Gael Monfils giving the famous Roland-Garros clay courts a workout (photo © Christophe Saidi). Below, from right: Grand Slam party; fast-paced French Open matches are hard to look away from (photo © Amelie Laurin); wine and dine at one of the Stadium’s many restaurants (photo © Eric Della Torre).

Tennis

SLAM into France THE ICONIC ROLAND-GARROS PARIS STADIUM IS SET FOR A MAJOR OVERHAUL IN 2017, INCREASING CAPACITY ON THE CENTRAL COURT AND ADDING A SWATHE OF NEW ATTRACTIONS FOR VISITING TENNIS FANS.

s one of the world’s top four Grand Slam tournaments, the French Open is arguably on the bucket list of any tennis fan. The atmosphere is subtly fashionable, for one. Fans are much more likely to flaunt cult streetwear labels than, say, the Australian Open crowds (who love their wild body paint) or Wimbledon (eccentric headgear). Players also go to great lengths to impress, as revealed by the zebra-stripe trend of 2016. In fact, the French Open has launched some of the most memorable sportswear trends over the years. From argyle print and pinstripes in the 1970s to the day-glo colours and high-tech fabrics of late, competitors have embraced the tournament’s rejection of traditional all-white tennis garb. But perhaps the tournament’s greatest claim to fame is its status as the only Grand Slam played on a clay court, which demands a different focus from players more used to synthetic surfaces or grass courts. Its extra slip factor makes for compelling viewing, and might be the reason the French Open is the most televised of all Grand Slams. It attracts 20

million television viewers globally, and half a million visitors on site for its two-week duration each May and June. The 10,000-seat stadium has been overhauled several times since opening in 1928, and is now set for a slew of changes that are perhaps the most ambitious yet. Apart from increasing seating capacity in the main stadium to 15,000, and adding a hightech retractable roof, Roland-Garros will open an additional 5,000-seat stadium on a newly annexed area. This is right inside the Jardien des Serres d’Auteuil botanical garden. Visitors will be able to admire its four vintage greenhouses, and stop to smell its gracious flowers en route to their game. It’s definitely a space to watch for 2018 and beyond. Further Information Roland-Garros Paris www.rolandgarros.com

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ge fique Voya My Magni

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News

Passport

HERE’S WHAT’S NEW FOR TRAVELLERS TO FRANCE IN 2017 AND BEYOND, FROM URBAN ENTERTAINMENT TO OPEN-AIR ADVENTURES.

Play

Cabaret

To celebrate its 25th year, Disneyland Paris is hosting an extravaganza of exciting performances and adventurepacked attractions in 2017. Enjoy captivating light shows at Sleeping Beauty Castle, watch your favourite characters come to life in the starstudded Disney Parade, or let the force be with you at Star Wars Hyperspace Mountain. The resort has something for every Disney fan, from Lion King lovers to Frozen fanatics, all of whom will cherish a visit during its 25th-anniversary festivities. www.disneylandparis.com

Located just near the ChampsÉlysées, the daring Crazy Horse cabaret invites visitors into the world of the avant-garde and unapologetically risqué. Recent highlights include the wildly popular Dessous Dessus, which featured couture pieces from the high priestess of lingerie, Chantal Thomass; the cabaret’s 65th anniversary; and the return of burlesque queen Dita Von Teese. Let the glamorous dancers and costumes dazzle you – no two shows are quite the same. On tour in Melbourne from 8 August, and at Sydney State Theatre from 27 September. www.crazyhorseparis.com.au

Calling all Mouseketeers

Risqué business

The avant-garde Crazy Horse Paris is coming to Australia in spring 2017 (photo © Antoine Poupel).

Bio

Gerard Depardieu’s tell-all memoir, Innocent.

You read it here first

Join the festivities at Disneyland Paris’ 25th anniversary this year (photo © Disneyland).

Gerard Depardieu presents his life for public scrutiny in his new autobiography, Innocent. Full of stories of his turbulent upbringing and famous friendships, the book sheds new light on the provocative French actor. Not one to shy away from controversy, Depardieu shares his opinions on everything from cinema to politics, including his stormy relationship with his homeland, France. Innocent is currently available online and at leading book stores.

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Tropics

Blue lagoon

Water-sports fans visiting New Caledonia this year are in for thrills and spills. From 21 to 26 November, Nouméa’s Anse Vata beach will play host to the Airwaves Nouméa Dream Cup 2017, an event that pits the world’s windsurfing champions against each other. Blessed with steady trade winds year round, the island’s famous lagoon is sure to be the perfect setting for the weeklong Cup. These waters cover 24,000 square kilometres, so visitors are likely to spot turtles, dugongs or whales, some of the many protected species that call the lagoon home. www.airwavesnoumeadreamcup.nc

The world’s windsurfing greats compete during Noumea’s Airwaves cup (photo © John Carter/NCTPS).

Luxe

Make a splash

Cabaret

Fire and ice Famous for being much more than a cabaret, Lido de Paris treats audiences to close-up views of its adagio ice-skating duo, Maxime Combès and Solenne Bachelet. With six years of stunning performances at the Lido under their lycra belts, the acclaimed pair has choreographed a new routine for 2017. When Solenne’s graceful spins and twirls meet Maxime’s power, their skates tell a story that sets the ice on fire. www.lido.fr.

Here at Atout France, we’re always thrilled when the latest Eres swimwear catalogue lands on our desks. And just when we thought the brand’s daringly simple, graphic style could have no more surprises in store, its spring/summer 2017 collection proves otherwise. Jewellike colours and clever details, such as the buttoned tab of the Giorgia and the Bakelite detail of the Diagramme, make for effortless glamour. As always, every piece is cut to flatter, made to last and designed for active recreation. www.eres.fr

Sensational routines and stages at the acclaimed Lido Paris (photo © PICS/Pascaline Labarrere).

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The belted Georgia one-piece by Eres.

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Opposite page: Exploring the Route des Vins de Bordeaux in Graves and Sauternes (photo © phlabeguerie); surfing in Biarritz (photo © CDT64).

New-Aquitaine

Wonderful WEST

IN THE LUSH WINE COUNTRY OF NEW-AQUITAINE, UNFORGETTABLE ADVENTURES AWAIT THOSE WHO LIKE A LITTLE ACTION TO COUNTER ALL THAT INDULGENCE. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

eyond the city of Bordeaux lies the region New-Aquitaine, whose vineyards give birth to worldfamous wines. The Garonne and Dordogne Rivers weave their way through a landscape dotted with fairytale châteaux. Explore on foot, by bike or by boat, rewarding yourself with Cognac tasting or a day on the beach in Biarritz.

ACTIVE NEW-AQUITAINE With a cycling cruise on the Le Bordeaux (aquitaine-cruises.com), make the most of both water and land. By day, cycle through the fertile orchards of Little Holland, across the Sauterne wine region, and admire the châteaux of the Médoc. Come nightfall, dine aboard on gourmet dishes as you sail gently down-river to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Saint-Emilion. Boats are available on the Garonne River for the day with Bordeaux River Cruise (bordeauxriver-cruise.com), or you can sleep onboard with Le Boat (www.leboat.com.au) for a longer, more leisurely experience in the Lot-et-Garonne. Cyclists might also take on the famous Dordogne, east of Bordeaux, with its glorious sunshine and well-marked routes. Highlights include the romantic medieval-era town of Bergerac, and the magnificent Magdaleneera caves at Lascaux (www.lascaux.fr). A world-class discovery centre here gives visitors an immersive simulated experience of the caves, themselves long off-limits to visitors. The Tour de France will pass through Dordogne this July, another reason for cycling enthusiasts to visit. At harvest time on the Jurançon Wine Route, you can help with grape picking on the hillside terraces. Or go beyond the grapevines altogether, and try the Pau region’s cycling, whitewater and golf offerings, overlooking the Pyrenees (www. pau-pyrenees.com).

BEACHES OF BIARRITZ Down on the coast of New-Aquitaine, about two hours’ drive from Bordeaux, beautiful Biarritz (www.tourisme.biarritz.fr) has been a hub for sun seekers and surfers since the 1950s. In 2017, Biarritz marks 60 years of fame as a surfing destination, and visitors will be able to enjoy celebratory events such as concerts, surf art, surf movies, contests and more. The program continues through to September 3. Watching pro surfers at the top of their game is exhilarating for spectators, and if you’re inspired to get on a board for the first time, or to refine your surfing skills, Biarritz has no fewer than 10 surfing schools. Biarritz boasts the second-oldest golf course in Europe, great museums, fine dining options, an art deco oceanarium, and a superb contemporary dance company, Malandain Ballet Biarritz. Accommodation options in the region range from the historic and opulent Hotel du Palais in central Biarritz, to the chic and modern Hotel & Spa Villa Seren at Hossegor, and the budget-friendly Okko Hotel in Bayonne.

SPOTLIGHT ON COGNAC Among the esteemed vineyards of NewAquitaine is Cognac, which is located about one-and-a-half hours’ drive from Bordeaux (tourism-cognac.com). Here you’ll find the world-renowned spirits cellars of Remy Martin, Hennessy, and Martell. Each of them offers exclusive and distinctive tours. Production is strictly regulated: Cognac can only be made in one of six designated zones, it must be twice distilled, and then aged for at least two years in French oak casks. You can learn more about making Cognac on a vineyard and tasting tour. The city of Cognac is bursting with historic sites, including the Royal Châteaux and several churches. The Musée des Arts du Cognac (www. musees-cognac.fr) is set within a 16th century

Above: The Lascaux caves replicated in astonishing detail at the new museum in Dordogne (photo © Bruno Chanet/CRTA); tasting cognac in Cognac (photo © Région Nouvelle-Aquitaine/M Anglada).

mansion and has extensive collections on everything from viticulture to alchemy. Further Information New-Aquitaine Tourist Board www.visit-new-aquitaine.com MAGAZINE

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Bordeaux

A GLASS apart

SOUGHT AFTER AS A WINE DESTINATION, BEAUTIFUL BORDEAUX IS SURPRISINGLY FULL OF ACTIVE ATTRACTIONS. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

onely Planet has named Bordeaux as one of the hottest destinations for 2017, and from July you can get there from Paris in two hours by high speed train. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to wine festivals and cellars, five Michelin-starred restaurants and the stunning La Cité du Vin (www.laciteduvin.com). With an architectural design inspired by gnarled vines or wine swirling in a glass, La Cité du Vin is both museum and theme park. The main tour is an immersive, sensory voyage, introducing visitors to the world’s wine civilisations. Needless to say, wine-tasting is a wonderful reward at the end of the tour.

TOURS FOR ALL TASTES Bordeaux is rated among the 10 most cyclable cities in the world, so hire a bike (even an electric one) and explore the city or some of the 29,000 hectares of parks, forests, marshes, and gardens in the metropolitan area, many with cycling tracks. There’s an easy, 49-kilometre circular cycle ride from Bordeaux through the Saint-Emilion vineyards, and you can also hop on and off boats with your bike, exploring Bordeaux’s rivers from the water as well as the riverside paths. With the Bordeaux City Pass you get unlimited free access to public transport and a smartphone app to guide you around the city’s sites. The pass includes free entrance to many of Bordeaux’s museums, including Aquitaine Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts and La Cité du Vin. It also covers entrance to the UNESCO World Heritage Citadel of Blaye, and the limestone catacombs and chapels at Saint-Emilion. The Urban Wine Trail must rate as the ultimate wine bar crawl. You can download the walking tour guide for free, and follow it around Bordeaux’s streets from bar to bar. Highlights of the trail include the extensive wine list at Le Wine 38

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Bar, live music at Chez Le Pepere, and carefully chosen food and wine pairings at L’Oenolimit. Runners should time their visit to coincide with the Marathon de Bordeaux Metropole, held every April. The race takes place by night, and the route along the Garonne River includes numerous historical sites. The finishing line is by the Miroir d’Eau, the world’s largest reflecting pool.

LIVING THE GOOD LIFE Coming up on 14 – 17 June, 2018, is the Bordeaux Wine Festival, a vibrant celebration which will thrill amateur wine drinkers and oenophiles alike. Spread across a 2-kilometre wine trail along the waterfront, the festival is a chance for visitors to learn about – and taste – wines from all 80 appellations in Bordeaux and New-Aquitaine. Next year’s event will coincide with the finale of the Biscay Tall Ships Regatta. At other times of the year, the best tastings are to be had at Château de Rayne Vigneau – tasting in the treetops! Not all wines are for drinking alone, however: some must be paired with fine foods for your palate to come alive. Gordon Ramsay’s Le Pressoir d’Argent opened in the heart of the city in 2015, to great acclaim, and chef Pierre Gagnaire also has a stunning showcase for his culinary skills at La Grande Maison. Both have a two Michelin-star rating. Guests who appreciate the finer things in life should check in to Les Sources de Caudalie, a five-star-rated palace hotel set amidst vineyards, or elegant Hotel de Tourny in central Bordeaux, with its new suites. Hotel Cordeillan-Bages is a member of Relais & Châteaux, offering newly overhauled rooms that remain steeped in history, and is the ideal spot for touring the vineyards and city alike. Further Information Bordeaux Tourism & Conventions www.bordeaux-tourisme.co.uk

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P O R T R A I T Clockwise from top: The futuristic La Cité du Vin, waterfront by the River Garonne (photo © Axelferis); the majestic Grand Théâtre (photo © Thomas Sanson); enjoying one of Bordeaux’s most delicious pursuit, wine tasting (photo © Deepix).

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SCENIC CULINAIRE Enjoy the exclusive Scenic Culinaire experience with a private cooking emporium offering tailored cooking classes on board two Scenic Space-Ships. Featuring dedicated cooking stations, a cheese and wine cellar and fresh ingredients sourced from local markets.

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Royal Panorama Suites

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2018 FRANCE RIVER CRUISES On our all-inclusive luxury France River Cruises, Scenic gives you more time to experience the wonders of this magniﬁcent country. From the stunning vistas of the Saône and Rhône rivers to the elegance of the Seine; our passion for French waterways now also includes the vineyard-strewn, breathtaking Bordeaux region. You’ll travel on state-of-the-art ships, featuring the largest private balcony suites, ﬁne dining and top-shelf beverages, all on shore excursions, butler service and a host of extraordinary experiences. We take you to the France you’ve always dreamt of, from the majestic châteaux of the Loire Valley, the lavender scented air of Provence to the wines of Bordeaux. In France, beauty is everywhere, and its reverence for art, history and gastronomy make every day a unique experience. On board two Scenic Space-Ships you can enjoy the exclusive Scenic Culinaire experience with a private cooking emporium offering tailored cooking classes. Featuring dedicated cooking stations, a cheese and wine cellar and fresh ingredients sourced from local markets. And the best bit is that it’s all included in the price.

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Kayaking near the Brignogan-Plages in Brittany, which has a coastline that’s at once idyllic, intricate and stunningly beautiful (photo © Emmanuel Berthier).

Brittany

Body & SOUL FROM THE MAGICAL MONT SAINTMICHEL BAY TO A LUSH LANDSCAPE THAT’S PERFECT FOR HIKING, BIKING OR GOLFING, BRITTANY IS A REINVIGORATING ESCAPE UNLIKE ANY OTHER DESTINATION IN FRANCE. BY DANIELLE BRICKER

ucked away in the northwest corner of the country lies one of France’s most compelling jewels. Brittany is a region bursting with striking seaside views, cultural sights, active pursuits, and relaxing indulgences. Brittany’s natural and cultural diversity are famed and Brittany is practically considered a country in itself. It has a distinct history, language, geography and cultural identity. The sights that potentially await during any trip include prehistoric megaliths, medieval castles, quaint fishing villages and remote islands.

ACTIVE BRITTANY Crisscrossed by trails and offering a wide range of scenery, Brittany is one of the best

regions in France for getting outdoors. The Greenways network features about 2,000 kilometres of family-friendly bicycle trails, with no cars allowed. Meanwhile, the Tour de Manche and Velodyssey cater to more serious cyclists, with over 1,300 kilometres of trails linking town and country, land and sea. Everywhere, the region’s friendly locals will help you on your way. For long walks, explore Brittany’s part along the national French Grande Randonnée hiking trail network, and traverse over 1,800 kilometres along the Breton coast. Also known as the Customs Path, this long-distance walking trail runs from Vitre to Tour-du-Parc, one of the region’s most charming coastal towns. That coast is legendary. Brittany’s many

beaches range from wide, sandy crescents to intimate nooks protected by smooth granite boulders. Its fast-moving tides are a sight to behold, changing between 6 and 14 metres in the space of an hour at some locations, compared to the world average of 2 metres. Climb aboard a sailboat, or join an excursion to meet bottlenose dolphins. Stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking are just some of the other popular nautical adventures in the area. If you’re not ready to sail the high seas, consider a canal cruise instead. The NantesBrest canal cuts right through the heart of Brittany, passing ports, chateaux, and petite cités de caractère – little cities of character. No license is necessary to rent a boat with cabins for as long as a week. There are also electricMAGAZINE

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powered boats available, which are popular for day trips. Finally, Brittany has a wide variety of golf courses, set among every kind of landscape, from deep forests to the airy seaside. Championship events like the Allianz Open tournament are highlights, but the sport is strong year-round in Brittany, with scenic courses like Golf Pléneuf Val André and Golf de Baden.

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THREE DAYS IN BRITTANY Just three hours from Paris by car, or 1 hour and 30 minutes by train, Brittany is an incredible getaway for travellers seeking a rejuvenating break from fast-paced city life. Sustainable living and slow tourism is emerging as a major draw-card. A three-day immersive break could start at a point along the 359-kilometre Tour de Manche

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trail, starting in Roscoff, passing beaches and moors before arriving at northern France’s most famous sight, the beautiful Mont-Saint-Michel Bay. Along the way, you’ll discover famous sights like Morlaix Bay and the Pink Granite Coast. On the second day of your trip, schedule a stop in the fishing village of Cancale on the Emerald Coast for a tasty oyster lunch. You simply can’t visit a seaside region like Brittany without taking advantage of its access to fresh seafood. Work off the kilojoules afterwards, with a scenic walk along Mont-Saint-Michel Bay. As you continue moving through the region, you might spend the night in Dinan or Saint Malo, two cobblestoned historic towns that feel lost in time. End your stay with a visit in Dinan, one of Brittany’s most beautiful historic towns. Its well-preserved ramparts extend for three full kilometres, and its timbered houses, craft shops, and galleries are all postcard-perfect.

A SAILING WEEKEND IN BRITTANY If you have more time to spend in Brittany, consider extending your itinerary to include a long weekend of enjoying the region’s seaside, such as the Gulf of Morbihan, an intricate and enormous harbour dotted with some 365 islands. Start at Rochefort-en-Terre, recently voted one of France’s favourite villages.

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Opposite, top: Early evening lights in the riverside town of Dinan; below: frolics along Brittany’s famed Pink Granite Coast (both photos © Emmanuel Berthier). This page, top: Hiking the epic Tour de Manche trail (photo © Emmanuel Berthier); below: aboard the good ship Krog e Barz (photo © Ronan Gladu).

By the end of your first day, you’ll make your way to Vannes, a medieval harbour town. Stroll the delightful streets and take in the ocean views. Travelling families will also want to schedule a stop at the aquarium. This little afternoon jaunt is just the beginning, of course. You could also sail off across the Gulf of Morbihan, on board the traditional sailing ship Krog E Barz. No need to be an expert captain – you are in the hands of a knowledgeable and good-humoured crew, happy to let you take the till or be regaled by their seafaring tales. Your reward for all that deck-swabbing is a day among Brittany’s mysterious, awe-inspiring megaliths. Rows of 3,000 menhirs line the heaths of Carnac. This is the best place to start your megalith exploration, as a nearby museum can explain more of their history. Later in the day, you can move on to the Grand Menhir Brisé and the Tables des Marchands in Locmariaquer, or the impressive cairn-topped island of Gavrinis. MAGAZINE

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Top: Sampling local oysters in Cancale (photo © Emmanuel Berthier); below: Breton specialty, galettes, with tea (photo © Jean-Patrick Gratien).

INDULGENT BRITTANY As fun-filled as Brittany’s active pursuits can be, the region is also a wonderful place to relax and enjoy the good life. Wherever you go in the region, you’re sure to find wonderful, fresh seafood. In fact, Brittany is famous for producing the finest fruits de mer in France, from mussels in the Baie de 46

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Saint Michel to oysters in Cancale. For a tasty year-round treat, try crepes. These delicious, thin pancakes can be served sweet or savoury, and are the Breton meal of choice for kids and vegetarians. Whatever you find on your plate, wash it down with a glass of crowd-pleasing Muscadet wine. Brittany also produces good ciders and beers, with brewing traditions here dating back to the 17th century. To top off its charms, Brittany’s mineral-rich seawater makes it a prime wellness destination. Make the most of the region’s restorative climate with a unique thalassotherapy experience. Seaweed baths and wraps, marine muds, and underwater showers are just a few of the treatments professionals use in the region to relax and heal guests. Between gourmet gastronomy and an idyllic backdrop for any outdoor sport, it’s easy to strike a perfect balance in Brittany.

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Further Information Tourisme Bretagne www.brittanytourism.com

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SETTING THE STANDARD, YET AGAIN.

OAKED CHARDONNAY

RIESLING CHAMPAGNE WINE GLASS

RIEDEL.COM

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Lyon Recipe for SUCCESS WITH ITS NEW OFFICIAL TITLE, INTERNATIONAL CITY OF GASTRONOMY, THE CITY OF LYON WILL WELCOME AN EXCITING PROGRAM OF EVENTS IN 2017. BY SALLY HAMMOND

S Top: Tarte tatin by Lyon chef Sébastien Bouillet (photo © Laurent Fau); inset: artist’s impression of a central atrium at the soon-to-open Grand HôtelDieu de Lyon (photo © Asylum).

traddling two rivers, Lyon also spans the culinary divide between northern and southern France. The city has discreetly done so for centuries, yet, aside from locals, only visitors to ‘the Paris of the South’ have been able to fully appreciate the world-class quality of this city’s food – until now, that is. Next year Lyon’s status as the cradle of French cuisine (which has long been evident though unofficial) will secure permanent recognition in an exciting new centre, the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie. In fact, its highly anticipated series of events is sure to blow the toques off chefs around the world. The boldest planning decision has been to place the entire program within one of Lyon’s most magnificent buildings, the waterfront Grand Hôtel-Dieu. A former hospital that dates back to the 12th century, the historic building is now undergoing an inspired transformation. The revitalised edifice will house fashionable shops, eateries and exhibitions, as well as the five-star InterContinental Lyon

Hôtel-Dieu. Work is well under way: the complex is due for a partial opening this year and will be completely operational by December 2018. The Cité’s huge space will enable foodies and professionals to relish numerous interactive culinary experiences, including cooking workshops, demonstrations and competitions. Of course, legendary local chef Paul Bocuse will enjoy a strong presence here thanks to the Tsuji school and the Bocuse d’Or contest. In line with the program’s theme of nutrition and health, the complex’s nine restaurants and its cafés and shops (which resemble market stalls) will offer visitors ways to live well. In addition, an educational ‘taste trail’ will explore France and its terroirs, illuminating the country’s rich and diverse gastronomic history. As a celebration of Lyon’s legacy, Michelinstarred restaurants and top chefs, the Cité is surely the city’s most delicious master stroke. Further Information Grand Lyon www.grandlyon.com MAGAZINE

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Club Med Opio en Provence

Greatest show on EARTH

ON A SCHEDULE, AND WANT TO EXPERIENCE AS MUCH OF PROVENCE AS POSSIBLE? THEN BASE YOURSELF AT THE IDYLLIC CLUB MED OPIO EN PROVENCE, DRENCHED IN SOUTHERN FRENCH CHARM AND STYLE.

f the word ‘resort’ conjures up images of dull décor and multi-storeyed buildings, think again. True to the reputation of this iconic brand, Club Med Opio en Provence is a sensational destination that simply oozes southern French charm. Here you’ll find a lush tree-fringed setting, sun-filled suites with balconies, terracottatiled architecture, and clever landscaping that’s designed for discovery. Much dining, drinking and activity is included in the tariff, so you can breeze from one experience to the next without a worry in the world.

A FEAST OF PROVENCE Club Med’s Opio en Provence is located on the sun-drenched Plateau de Valbonne, close to Cannes, an exquisite pocket of Provence dotted with olive groves and pine forests. But the Provençal landscape isn’t just rich in visual bounties – it also abounds in wonderful Mediterranean produce. You can experience its flavours at the resort’s restaurants, La Provence 50

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GET THE BALL ROLLING If you’re not a fan of swinging in the air like an acrobat, set your feet back onto the green and perfect your golf swing. Or try your backhand on one of the 13 tennis courts. Lessons are included for any level and age, all delivered by Club Med’s instructors. Other activities include guided walks, cardio, weights, fitness, pilates, volleyball, archery and more.

and L’Estérel. On offer are all-you-can-eat feasts, olive oils made on site, and local rosé you can enjoy while taking in the idyllic surrounds. The resort operates several atmospheric bars and you can even dance the night away at one of them, Le Mistral.

FRENCH RIVIERA SPIRIT While Opio en Provence’s countless activities are designed to keep guests immersed in enjoyment, it’s easy to experience the French Riveria lifestyle and its enviable culture. Less than an hour from the resort lie Provençal gems such as Grasse, renowned for its many perfumeries; St Paul de Vence with its fortified walls; and glamorous Cannes, home of the eponymous film festival. At nearby Nice, explore colourful outdoor markets and the sweeping seafront La Promenade des Anglais. Day trips to these and other destinations can be arranged through Club Med.

WHERE ACTION MEETS EMOTION One of the best things about any Club Med resort is their curated selection of activities perfect for that location, unmatched by anything nearby. (See top box for a rundown of the offer). Perhaps the greatest highlight here at Opio is the new CREACTIVE by Cirque du Soleil, launched in July 2017 – a circus-inspired playground with 28 unique activities. Instagram that!

HOLIDAY MORE, WORRY LESS Another highlight of Club Med is the level of care assigned to each guest, no matter their age or needs. This is all included in the cost. Families especially get to experience carefree holidaying at its best. Parents get to enjoy the many activities while their tots are fully cared for, and having nonstop fun with new friends at the Kids Club (also included in your tariff). Further Information Club Med Opio en Provence www.clubmed.com.au/r/Opio-en-Provence

WHAT’S INCLUDED Apart from the deluxe location, your tariff at Club Med Opio en Provence includes: • All-day fresh gourmet dining with local and international cuisines • Comfortable accommodation, from club rooms to suites • Premium open bar serving wine, beers and spirits • Range of sports and activities, including CREACTIVE by Cirque du Soleil • Kids Club from 4 to 17 years old (Note: Baby and Mini Clubs from 4 months to 3 years old are available at extra cost).

Opposite, from top: Club Med Opio’s new CREACTIVE by Cirque du Soleil, a dizzying acrobatic playground. Left: the resort’s lush and sundrenched setting.

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Above: Selection of Mediterranean flavours available daily for guests at La Provence. All photos © Club Med.

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THE DELIGHTFUL REGION OF CHAMPAGNE IS AN EASY SIDE TRIP FROM PARIS, AND REWARDS THE VISITOR WITH ACTIVE, ARTISTIC AND INDULGENT PURSUITS ALIKE. BY ADRIANNE YOUNG

Champagne

Above: The magnificent façade of Notre-Dame de Reims (photo © OTAR/Carmen Moya).

WINNER takes it all

hampagne’s landscape of sloping vineyards, gentle rivers and forests that ripple with wild boar is an active traveler’s playground. It’s an intrinsically kinetic place – the region’s chalk bedrock is the result of earthquakes that roiled the land millions of years ago, and brought the remains of an ancient ocean floor to the surface. In the wee hours of the ADs, the Romans mined the mineral-rich chalk and laid the historic cornerstone of Reims. Champagne quickly became a hub of intersecting trade routes that spread across Europe and beyond. The region has been traversed, invaded and battled upon for centuries since. Visitors today can enjoy the very best of life in Champagne, whose bucolic hillsides, cellars and houses are listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. 52

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REIMS – CITY OF CORONATIONS A quick 90 minutes from Paris by car, Reims – the City of Kings – serves as an elegant getaway with metropolitan convenience. People come to dine, taste champagne and take in the city’s rich history. Grand châteaux now serve as fine inns, and getting back to Paris by train is a crisp 45 minutes. Thirty-three French kings have come to the ecclesiastical center of France to be crowned, over more than 1,000 years. Since the 13th century, 25 of these kings have knelt under the 38-meter-high vaulted ceilings of Notre-Dame de Reims. A gothic treasure, the cathedral has maintained an evolving collection of stained glass, including a masterpiece by Marc Chagall. Reims’ tradition of supporting the arts is evident throughout the city. The grand champagne house of Pommery is a forerunner in major corporate sponsorship funding for

contemporary art. Their subterranean galleries host regular exhibitions that range in theme from the introspective to the excessive. Reims is also a magnet for fine dining. Château Les Crayères, the former home of the Polignac family, is tucked away in a 7-hectare landscaped park (www.lescrayeres.com). The restaurant’s extensive bottle list, and imaginative locally sourced menu by two-star Michelin chef Philippe Mille, evokes the art de vivre of Champagne.

EPERNAY – CAPITAL OF FIZZ Just 30 minutes’ drive from Reims is gracious Epernay, where the UNESCO heritage-listed Avenue de Champagne is lined with champagne houses bursting with glitz and panache. Taste world-famous labels such as Moët & Chandon, and go underground to tour the city’s 110 kilometres of chalk caves.

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Above: Colour and light at a recent staging of Habits de Lumière in Epernay (photo © Michel Jolyot).

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Below: Outdoor cafés and the distinctive half-timbered buildings of Troyes (photo © D le Névé).

For a thoroughly enjoyable sampling of several different champagne producers, visit C Comme Champagne’s tasting bar (www.c-comme.fr). Come the second week of December, the Habits de Lumières (Dressed in Lights) festival transforms the neighborhood into a glittering land full of champagne bars, street animations and fireworks. Ask the tourist office about their special Paris-to-Epernay travel deals.

TROYES – CENTRE OF ARTS South of Reims and Epernay is charming Troyes, which rewards keen walkers with halftimbered houses and cobbled walkways that ramble into a cluster of pedestrian-only streets. Long a centre for stained glass and textiles, Troyes has been an administrative and artisanal outpost for much of Champagne’s history. In the Middle Ages, it was the seat of the ruling Counts of Champagne and hosted important medieval trading fairs for textiles, spices and precious metals. The Troy weight is still used to measure gold today. The city’s Museum of Tools is expertly curated and tells the story of Champagne’s rich history of crafts. Another marvel unique to Troyes is the Apothecary Museum, with its intriguing medical displays. MAGAZINE

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Above: The gently rolling landscape of Champagne is perfect for cyclists of any level (photo © Boschmann).

CYCLE AND SIP AT LEISURE Meander along the Meuse River by bicycle for 140 easygoing kilometers. The international Meuse Cycle Route passes through Sedan, follows along the picturesque valleys of the Ardenne massif and rolls over the border into Belgium. At the confluence of the Meuse and Semois looms Roc la Tour, curious rock formations with a fabled past. While these venerable ramparts are impressive, the victors of Champagne are its winemakers. Their ingenuity turned adversities such as rocky soil and temperate summers into a champion, winning the wine’s place at the royal table. Discover wine country through cycle tours, by boat or with guided excursions. With so many sights to see, contact the regional tourism board (see end box) to advise on the best itinerary for you. Look also for the ‘Vignobles & Découvertes’ (Vineyards and Discoveries) logo – a label that distinguishes sites and services that have been approved by the Ministry of Tourism and Agriculture for their commitment to a quality experience in Champagne. 54

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AUGUSTE RENOIR’S SUMMER HOME Art and champagne belong together, which is why the region brims with the triumphs of spirit represented by both. When Auguste Renoir fell in love with his model and future wife, Aline Charigot, he also fell in love with her hometown of Essoyes and the surrounding vineyards. Visit the town’s Renoir Cultural Centre to learn more about the artist’s life through a short film and interactive exhibitions, and browse the story of how he evolved beyond Impressionism to develop a style of his own. Afterwards, continue on the signposted walk through Essoyes, past working artist’s studios, to Renoir’s own garden-side painting studio. Here you can see the views Renoir painted in and around Essoyes and watch short clips of the artist at work, revealing his determination to keep painting in spite of his rheumatoid arthritis. On 3 June 2017, Renoir’s family home will open for the first time to the public. This exciting new attraction will provide a glimpse into the joys of the artist’s private family life and hint at the din of laughter that inspired him to build his garden painting shed.

Don’t miss a visit to the wonderfully conceived Renoir Cultural Centre (photo © Sophie Martineaud).

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Above: The life and times of Auguste Renoir are brought to life at his onetime painting studio (photo © CRTA). Opposite page: An astounding variety of creations at the International Puppet Festival in CharlevilleMézières (photos © Thierry Michel).

ADDRESS BOOK Reims Tourist Office reims-tourisme.com

Troyes Tourist Office en.tourisme-troyes.com Renoir Cultural Centre renoir-essoyes.fr International Puppet Festival festival-marionnette.com/en

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For another perspective on Auguste Renoir, a special temporary exhibition called Un Autre Renoir (‘Another Renoir’) will feature at the Modern Arts Museum in Troyes from 17 June to 17 September 2017. This unique collection of around 50 original works, sourced from top museums around France, includes such masterpieces as the oil on canvas Young Woman at the Well and Renoirs that once belonged to Picasso.

CAMILLE CLAUDEL – AN UNSUNG DAUGHTER OF CHAMPAGNE

Epernay Tourist Office en.ot-epernay.com

The sculptor Camille Claudel was a prolific and inspired artist in a time when formally trained female sculptors were rare. The new Camille Claudel Museum (www. museecamilleclaudel.fr/en) opened in March 2017 at her family home in Nogent-sur-Seine,

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and houses the largest collection of Claudel’s works in the world. About 70 pieces of her surviving works are on display, creating a comprehensive biography of her tumultuous career. Pieces by the artists that inspired Claudel – Paul Dubois and Bœshwillwald – will also be on view, to provide contrast and much-needed insight to her work. While most often noted for being Auguste Rodin’s student, lover and eventual creative rival, Claudel’s mastery earns her the right to stand on her own. Her work reveals a lifelong yearning to capture light and movement. This collection is a testimony to her quick evolution and work as an artist. Further Information Champagne-Ardenne Regional Tourist Board www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk

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WORLD PUPPET FESTIVAL AT CHARLEVILLE-MÉZIÈRES Every two years in September, CharlevilleMézières hosts 250 troupes from five continents who tell their stories through indoor and outdoor performances, fringe shows, structured meetings, exhibitions and main events. Over 168,500 spectators come to the puppet capital of the world for the chance to attend hundreds of shows that feature the full range of puppetry techniques. The nine-day event is a comfortable day trip from Reims, and draws puppetry enthusiasts from around the world. Soak up the buzzing atmosphere of popular street theatre or reserve a seat at one of the festival’s many performances. If you need to stay overnight, book well in advance, and let the enchanting evening wind down with the magic of a story well told.

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Dessert platter of steamed sponge cake; mango and turmeric cream; caramelised pineapple; oat meal crumble; passion fruit and Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream.

Feast

Good France goes TROPPO

SERVED JUST ONCE A YEAR, BY TOP CHEFS AT 2,000 RESTAURANTS AROUND THE WORLD, GOOD FRANCE IS A GLOBAL FEAST WITH A SINGLE-MINDED VISION: TO SHOWCASE THE LEGACY OF FRENCH GASTRONOMY.

hink of any fine meal you’ve savoured recently, and chances are its origins are French. Those deconstructed Modern Australian dishes: exquisite meats matched with subtle, textured and surprising vegetables and sauces. And so many perennial favourites: pommes-frites and pies, gâteaux and gratins, crêpes and crème brûlée. Paired with the fine wines and liqueurs so intrinsic to any gastronomic experience – champagne, cognac and an infinite number of red and white varietals and blends. “In fact, French cooking still forms the basis of most techniques taught in cooking schools, and its principles lie at the heart of dishes served all around the world, even despite the influence of all those other wonderful global influences now.” We are midway through a French-Polynesian feast at the Garden Court restaurant in Sydney,

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and I am speaking with French-born Aussie chef, Gabriel Gaté. He is one of 80-plus Francophile guests at this edition of Goût de France, or Good France, an annual event in which restaurants all over the world commit to serving a French-inspired feast. Tonight’s three-course dinner has been created by a trio of top French chefs, one each based in Sydney, Tahiti and New Caledonia. “Tonight’s meal,” Gaté continues, showing a warm regard for the work of his peers, “brings together local ingredients such as shellfish, crab, plantain bananas and kaffir lime leaves, and French techniques such as ceviche, mousselines, croquettes and caramelising.” It’s an eloquent summary of the dinner – and the impact of Goût de France. Presented by the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Development, together with visionary chef Alain Ducasse, Goût de

France revives an idea that the great Auguste Escoffier had back in 1912. Escoffier’s Epicurean Dinners originally sought to serve the same French meal, on the same day, in several world cities; Goût de France adds some flexibility to this vision, by encouraging region-specific interpretations of the French theme. “French cuisine is first and foremost an entire attitude. Its strength lies in its attention to the products used and the seasons,” says Ducasse. “That is why it is able to adapt to such a range of regions – the sources available vary depending on the place and the season, but the care taken over products and the techniques are the same everywhere.” On this night in March, more than 2,000 restaurants are participating in 150 countries around the world, including 20 chefs at restaurants across Australia – in Perth,

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Right: A tropical and Pacific French islandinspired table setting.

Above left: Bryony Cumberpatch, Marie VarnierGittard, Robert Thompson, Caroline Brunel and Morgane Blondel. Two lucky winners of the door prize will spend a beautiful holiday with compliments of Air Tahiti Nui and Aircalin.

Adelaide, Canberra, Melbourne and Sydney. Back at the Garden Court, chefs Nicolas Bourgois from New Caledonia’s Carpe Diem and Sebastien Prevel from Tahiti’s Le Meridien have just delivered their final instalment, an assemblage of island-inspired desserts. The kitchen is spotless, the floor is dry and just one or two staff remain, a testimony to how smoothly the event was executed. “One of the best things about tonight’s event has been the teamwork,” says Garden Court’s Boris Cuzon, while Bourgois and Prevel nod in agreement. “It’s been exciting and we all learned something new.” All three chefs have been trained or mentored by Michelin-starred chefs, including Ducasse himself. Outside in the dining room, the atmosphere is still buzzing. Tropical blooms are being plucked off table settings to adorn guests’ hairstyles, and Tahitian dancers are weaving gracefully between tables to the rhythm of soft guitar. A civilised and warm air remains, and we’re already anticipating the 2018 event. Further Information Good France us.france.fr/en/goodfrance2017 Sponsors for this Goût de France event were: Atout France; French Government’s Embassy of France in Australia; The Islands of Tahiti; New Caledonia Tourism; Vittoria Coffee’s La Maison Du Thé; Tefal; Air Tahiti; AirCalin; and Sofitel Wentworth Sydney.

Middle: The Atout France team during the event; above: Wivina Chaneliere from Tefal with guests and a troupe of Tahitian dancers. All photos by Voltaire Carlos. MAGAZINE

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Main: The Duke’s Palace in central Dijon (photo © Kees Verplanke); below: strolling among the vines (photo © Alain Doire / Bourgogne Tourisme).

Dijon

SPICE

of life

DIJON IS THE CULTURAL HEARTLAND OF FRANCE. THE HISTORICAL CITY CENTRE AND THE SURROUNDING VINEYARDS OF BOURGOGNE-FRANCHE-COMTÉ ARE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES, AND SUPERB CUISINE ROUNDS OUT THE EXPERIENCE AT EVERY TURN. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

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paradise for those with a discerning palate, Dijon offers vineyard tours by day, where you can stop along the way for tastings, and then fine dining by night. Any evening, stroll through one of Dijon’s parks and gardens to a Michelin-starred restaurant or family-run backstreet café. Every one of your senses is in for a treat.

WINE AND DINE The vineyards of Burgundy should be top of your list in Dijon. During a half-day tour, you can walk among the vines along Burgundy’s own Champs-Élysées, the domaines of Romanée Conti and Gevrey-Chambertin. The Pinot Noir grape is a speciality of Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits, as is Chardonnay. If you want to learn more about Burgundy’s wines, combine your tour with an expert-led class. At Imaginarium, take an animated journey through time, learning about viticulture and winemaking, with a particular focus on local sparkling wines. Wine aficionado Sandrine Lanaud will share her passion for Burgundy terroirs at the Clos de Bourgogne wine workshop, which takes place in a cellar and includes a comparative tasting. The Grand Dijon Tourist Office also offers bespoke tours letting visitors discover the city’s long history of wine. All tours end, of course, with a wine-tasting session. And the new International Gastronomy Exhibition Centre, set to open in 2019, will give visitors more insights into the area’s wine and culinary heritage. Wine is only half of Dijon’s gastronomic pleasures, however: the other half is food. Dijon mustard, bœuf bourguignon, and coq au vin are all local delicacies, and you can try the authentic recipes in one of Dijon’s worldclass restaurants. Five are Michelin star-rated restaurants; countless more are high in acclaim or specialise in famous regional flavours. At La Maison des Cariatides (www. lamaisondescariatides.fr), 23-year-old Angelo Ferrigno has just become France’s youngest chef to win a Michelin star. Also drawing appreciative crowds are Loiseau des Ducs, Grand Hotel la Cloche and the hotel Philippe le Bon, all offering unforgettable charm and fine flavours. Or just visit the sensational Les Halles markets any morning of the week, to stock up on artisanal baked goods, cheeses, fresh produce and more. Every Sunday, between May and September, visitors can enjoy a sensational brunch here, prepared by talented local chefs.

OUT AND ABOUT Perhaps the best way to explore the vineyards is by bicycle: you are out in the fresh air with stunning scenery spread about you,

Above: Sculptures, fountains and cafés at La Place François-Rude (photo © Maupetit / OT Dijon).

Below: Just follow the trail through Dijon’s famous vineyards (photo © Alain Doire /Bourgogne Tourisme).

and so long as you’re not too wobbly, there’s no restriction to the number of wine tastings you can enjoy. If you hire a bike locally it will typically come with panniers to hold your wine bottles, and there are a number of wellsignposted circuits for cyclists to follow. Fine living is a priority in Dijon, and for many people this goes hand in hand with days spent out on the green. The city boasts two highly respected golf courses, Country Club Norges Dijon Bourgogne, and Le Golf Blue Green Quetigny Grand Dijon. There will be three important golf competitions in Dijon this summer: the 20th

Managers Trophy in June, International Week in August, and the 20th Grand Cru Trophy of Burgundy in September. The latter is the perfect competition for those with equal passion for golf and wine, as there are tastings at the different holes, magnums of wine for prizes, and you will receive a bottle of Domaine de la RomanéeConti if you hit a hole in one! Further Information Office de Tourisme du Grand Dijon www.destinationdijon.com

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Bistro

French REVOLUTION

Clockwise from above: Guillaume Brahimi at his Sydney CBD establishment; Whiting Colbert, already a favourite among diners; selection of desserts from the trolley (all photos © Nikki To).

SYDNEY’S MOST CHARISMATIC FRENCH CHEF, GUILLAUME BRAHIMI, HAS OPENED ANOTHER SYDNEY VENUE TO BRING SENSATIONAL CASUAL DINING TO THE CITY’S BLUE-CHIP DISTRICT.

taying local to watch the French Open or Tour de France in 2017? Then head to one of your city’s finest French eateries to round out the experience. The latest in a series of acclaimed Sydney dining spots, including the Four in Hand Paddington, Bistro Guillaume Sydney has opened inside swank new premises on Sydney’s George Street. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a patisserie counter for good measure so you can take home any sweet treats. True to his signature style, classically inspired French cuisine is on the menu here, created of course from vibrant Australian ingredients.

It starts with breakfast: house-baked bread, muffins and pastries such as chocolate brioche, or more substantial fare such as free-range egg omelette with smoked ham, herbs and gruyere cheese. Freshly squeezed juices and strong coffee goes without saying. For lunch and dinner, the generous range of entrées, salads, share plates and mains all combine a medley of stunning flavours in true French style. Think Whiting Colbert, a whole but de-boned and finely crumbed fish arched over pont neuf potatoes, topped with a disc of tarragon butter; or twice-baked cheese soufflé with Roquefort sauce. After dinner, just select table-side from the dessert trolley, laden with classics such

as lemon tart, millefeuille with Madagascan vanilla cream, Paris Brest, pistachio trifle and more. And if you’re not in Sydney, you’ll just have to hold your tennis or cycling debrief at his equally revered Melbourne and Perth establishments instead. Further Information Bistro Guillaume Sydney bistroguillaumesydney.com.au

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Town and COUNTRY PROVING YET AGAIN THE RANGE OF HIS REMARKABLE TALENTS, CHEF ALAIN DUCASSE OPENS HIS UNDERSTATED AND ELEGANT CAFÉ ORE INSIDE CHÂTEAU VERSAILLES, AND CELEBRATES 12 YEARS AT BISTRO BENOÎT IN PARIS.

CAFÉ ORE Exploring the Château de Versailles is a massive day out, with its 2,000-plus rooms, more than 15,000 priceless antiquities, yearround entertainments and divine gardens – a dizzying sequence of fountains, flowerbeds, woodlands and waterways. It’s fortunate, then, that those wanting to relive the splendour of the 17th century French royalty can now treat themselves to breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea in suitably highbrow style. Alain Ducasse, inimitable creator of the modern French culinary experience, has taken up residence at the Pavillon Dufour, which sits at the entrance to Château de Versailles and boasts floor-to-ceiling windows opening onto 64

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the Cour Royale courtyard. Where possible, the menu takes cues from the monarchs who shaped Versailles over the ages. Lunchtime dishes have a hunting-lodge simplicity, such as the pollock with artichokes and potatoes, or tiny spelt with wild mushrooms and sorrel. Afternoon tea is named Queen Marie’s Tea and is fittingly exquisite. Guests can choose three savoury and three sweet selections to accompany their tea, coffee or hot chocolate, along with a serve of brioche, cake, madeleine or financier. The breakfast and all-day menu brims with French favourites, from savoury mini pastries and scrambled eggs to dainty graze plates and cakes. As always, hand-picked quality and

seasonality are a point of pride. The setting is also available for private evening functions. Make sure to linger inside Pavillon Dufour itself, recently overhauled by architect Dominique Perrault and Frédéric Didier, head architect of the palace of Versailles. It blends Versailles’ world-heritage status with intelligent modern features, designed to help 6 million annual visitors breeze through annually. Further Information Ore – Ducasse au Château de Versailles www.ducassechateauversailles.com

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Opposite page, main: Vacherin dessert at Ore; inset, the iconic symbol of Versailles’ so-called Sun King, Louis XIV (photo © NGA). This page, top: Bistro Benoît’s take on escargots; bar tables provide an authentic bistro experience (all food photos © Pierre Monetta).

BENOÎT A short stroll from the Île Saint-Louis, in a corner of Paris befitting a film scene, sits the legendary bistro Benoit. At the entrance, double French doors open into a softly lit interior featuring elegant brass fittings and decorative etched-glass panels. This old-world Parisian decor may persuade some visitors that their taste buds are about to step back in time; however, the inimitable Alain Ducasse, who has owned the restaurant since 2005, treats diners to sophisticated, modern takes on traditional bistro dishes. Three generations of the Petit family managed Benoit from the day it opened in 1912. The bistro has always enjoyed a reputation for its superb meat dishes, and Ducasse’s team – led by chef Fabienne Eymard – recreates their earthy flavours by using the freshest seasonal produce. Visitors highly recommend the grilled sole in rich Nantua (crayfish) sauce and the house cassoulet of white haricot beans, while adventurous diners relish the authentic French flavours of calf’s tongue, sweetbreads and buttery garlic snails. Sommelier Rudy Reis has hand-picked each of the 350-plus wines to complement the sensational food, and many bottles are rare drops from France’s top wine-growing regions – no wonder Benoit is the only Paris bistro to have secured a Michelin star. Although Ducasse showcases haute cuisine across his global restaurant empire – Tokyo and New York also have a Benoit – the multi-awardwinning chef is in fact devoted to homestyle fare, such as the classics on offer at this timeless Parisian treasure. Further Information Benoît Paris 20 rue St-Martin, 4e, Marais, Paris, 75004 www.alain-ducasse.com/en/restaurant/benoit Member Châteaux & Hôtels Collection www.chateauxhotels.com

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CALLING the shots

MICHAEL ISSENBERG IS CHAIRMAN AND CEO OF ACCORHOTELS ASIA PACIFIC, AND A VETERAN OF THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY. BIG ON SPORTS, HE OFFERED THESE TIPS FOR VISITORS TRAVELLING TO A FRENCH SPORTS EVENT IN 2017.

am very lucky as I have travelled all over France. There’s one particularly standout memory. I was vising with my family in July 2008, staying at the Sofitel Arc de Triomphe. It was the 10th anniversary of France’s World Cup victory and the team was 66

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staying at the hotel for their reunion. We were able to mingle with the players, and my son managed to get an autograph from Zinedine Zidane. I love so many things about French culture but underlying it all is the French art de vivre, which celebrates the pleasures of life – from the great museums and galleries, to high fashion and French cuisine. It is no surprise that France continues to dominate gastronomy and luxury the world over. One of the great things about working for the only global French hotel group is being able to bring French art de vivre to our guests throughout the world. The French Open is a highlight of my sporting calendar each year, and now that AccorHotels is an official supplier of Roland Garros, I hope to be in Paris for this event in 2017. We have a reception area in the Partners’ Village during the tournament, which will be buzzing

with partners and investors from around the world. I am also excited that the Ryder Cup is coming to France in 2018, only the second time in its history. It will be held just outside Versailles. Major events aside, France lets visitors enjoy sport in the most scenic locations, from the beautiful towns along the Tour de France route to the Monaco Grand Prix. In Paris, I would recommend the Molitor MGallery by Sofitel for anyone attending the French Open, as the hotel is just moments away from Roland Garros. It’s centred around the Piscine Molitor, built in 1929 and for decades the city’s most famous swimming baths before falling into decline in the 1980s. Now completely rejuvenated and given new life by MGallery, the Molitor seamlessly blends Art Deco and street art into an exciting, vibrant boutique hotel centred around its two famous pools.

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During the Monaco Grand Prix, motorsports fans could choose no better than staying at the Fairmont Monte Carlo. Its famous Fairmont Hairpin Suites directly overlook the most challenging section of the course. With stunning views over the Mediterranean, a Willow Stream Spa and its famous Sunday Jazz Brunch, this opulent hotel is so close to the action you can almost touch the cars as they race by. If you’re headed to the world-class golf of Biarritz, the Sofitel Biarritz Le Miramar is a wonderful base. Its thalassotherapy spa is the perfect diversion for partners who may not play, or who wish to unwind after a round of golf. It boasts spectacular views over the Atlantic coast and blends deep-rooted Basque traditions with French art de vivre to create an extraordinary stay for every guest. I have not yet had the opportunity to ski in France, despite having travelled there so often. I am hoping to spend the next Christmas holidays skiing there. And when you live in Singapore, the prospects of a white Christmas are especially exciting. Further Information AccorHotels offers almost 2,000 hotels across France, including premium brands such as Sofitel, Pullman, MGallery, Novotel, Mercure and ibis. www.accorhotels.com or 1300 656 565

Top left: The magnificent Versailles Palace, which is near the 2018 Ryder Cup venue (photo © Versailles); Below left: Michael Issenberg holding the Australian Open trophy, on the occasion of AccorHotels becoming official partner of the tournament.

Top: the pool at Molitor MGallery, a centrepiece of the new hotel. Above: creation by Alain Ducasse at Ore (photo © Pierre Monetta).

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LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE !

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Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme

Arts in RESIDENCE

FINE ART, FINE DINING AND FINE SERVICE ARE HALLMARKS OF THE PARK HYATT PARIS-VENDÔME, WHERE GUESTS CAN EXPECT AN EMINENTLY PARISIAN STAY.

ntimately proportioned and cleverly conceived, the Park Hyatt ParisVendôme lies behind a discreet façade on rue de la Paix. It’s hard to imagine a more Parisian location, with the Paris Opera and rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré just moments away. The Champs-Elysées is a 30-minute stroll away – perfect for guests keen to experience the Tour de France finale. Inside, celebrated American architect Ed Tuttle has infused an ambience of chic neoclassicism, blending styles such as Louis XVI and Art Deco with materials such as mahogany and marble. Art is integral to the Park Hyatt (which was founded by famed collector, Jay Pritzker), and you’ll see works by renowned French artists in many of its public spaces. Since opening in 2002 after a masterful refurbishment of several Second Empire buildings, the hotel has garnered a loyal following. Diplomats, celebrities, writers and European royalty are all regulars at this 153room establishment, drawn equally by the grand service as by the dining choices. Head to the darkly elegant Le Bar, or the Michelin star-rated Le Pur’, where you’ll find a simple and elegant menu. Or sample one of the hotel’s exclusive culinary events. At press time, the restaurant-lounge Les Orchidées was hosting several Grand Crus dinners, in which a gastronomic menu is paired with hand-selected fine wines. A couture-inspired chocolate Easter Egg, created in homage to the many fashion ateliers once housed here, was about to go on sale in the hotel shop. Active guests can visit the hotel’s 24-hour gym and sauna, followed perhaps by a beauty treatment at Le Spa, featuring Crème de la Mer product. Discreet yet attentive service, and state-of-the-art technology in every room, go without saying.

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Clockwise from top left: Ornate setting at Les Orchidées; the hotel’s very Parisian entrance; the Michelin starrated Le Pur’ restaurant (all photos © Hyatt).

M EL

Further Information Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme paris.vendome.hyatt.com

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Quartier

Magical PARIS hideaways ONE OF THE BEST WAYS TO EXPERIENCE PARIS IS AT AN INTIMATE HOTEL IN A TUCKED-AWAY QUARTER. THE RELAIS CHRISTINE AND SAINT JAMES PARIS ARE A CUT ABOVE. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

LEFT BANK GEM Nestled in the Latin Quarter, one of the city’s oldest districts, Relais Christine is just minutes from the boutiques and galleries of Saint-Germain as well as the incredible collections of the Musée d’Orsay and the Louvre. The hotel stands on the site of a 13th-century abbey, and makes the most of the building’s original architecture and feels like an exclusive private residence. Each morning, you can enjoy a lavish continental buffet in the cosy lounge, and in the evening, you’ll want to relax by the open fireplace, sipping a glass of fine French wine from the honesty bar. Recent renovations have taken their cue from the romantic vision of interior designer Laura Gonzalez. As a result, the hotel treats guests to natural light falling through full-length windows, wallpapers of vintage patterns and toile de Jouy, rich fabrics and sumptuous furnishings. Several of the 48 rooms and suites open out onto balconies or the garden, and some feature queen-size four-poster beds. Medieval vaulted ceilings and stone columns create a dramatic setting for the luxury spa, a serene space replete with a mosaic jacuzzi, Finnish sauna and double treatment room. The spa menu offers a wide range of massages and other indulgent treatments; however, Relais Christine also encourages its guests to stay active. Work out under the vaults in the fitness room, practise yoga or tai chi on the garden’s verdant lawn or in the flower-filled courtyard, or jump on a free bicycle and pedal your way through the alluring streets of the Left Bank. Top left: hotel Relais Christine is a short stroll from must-see Paris sights, such as the Notre-Dame. Above: the hotel’s delightful cobbled courtyard. 70

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Further Information Relais Christine www.relais-christine.com

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RIGHT BANK RETREAT Whether you’re visiting Paris to watch the tennis at Roland-Garros stadium, to take part in the Gay Games, or to cheer the cyclists speeding along the Champs-Élysées in the Tour de France finale, Saint James Paris is the place to stay. The hotel is in the city’s chic 16th arrondissement, famous for its elegant boutiques and Michelin-starred restaurants, and close to both Musée Guimet and Musée d’Art Moderne. Just a short walk away, the Bois de Boulogne, an oasis of a park that was once the hunting ground of French kings, gives you 850 hectares to explore on foot or by bike. A 100-year-old château set within private gardens, Saint James offers 49 rooms and suites, which are opulent to say the least. Interior designer Bambi Sloan has let her imagination run wild, providing guests with a colourful wonderland of luxurious silks, fine brocades, parquet floors, gilt mirrors and chandeliers. Even the Guerlain Spa’s decor takes inspiration from

French boudoirs and Turkish baths. Perhaps most impressive, the dramatic main staircase is worthy of a film set, as is the Library Bar – the perfect backdrop for a sophisticated soirée or liaisons dangereuses. In January this year, chef Jean-Luc Rocha took over Saint James’s kitchen, and with two Michelin stars to his name, it’s no wonder he’s already made his mark on the hotel’s restaurant. Enjoy lunch outside on the lawn, where pergolas in the shape of hot-air balloons adorn the garden. For a more formal atmosphere, stay indoors and settle into plush seating beneath golden chandeliers in the wood-panelled dining room. Further Information Saint James Paris www.saint-james-paris.com Top: dramatic styling creates a trompe-l’oeil effect at Saint James Paris’ entrance foyer. Right: guests can sample fine wines hand-selected by sommelier Elise Esnouf. MAGAZINE

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Stays

TENDER is the night EXPERIENCE THE STUNNING AND ELEGANT HOSPITALITY THAT IS UNIQUELY FRENCH. FROM THE LINENS TO THE TABLE SERVICE, THESE PROPERTIES PLAY ON A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT PITCH. BY ADRIANNE YOUNG

surge in niche travel experiences, plus ongoing demand everywhere for city visits, means that travellers to France can expect more variety than ever in their city stays. Here are our top picks for four amazing urban hotels – and one rural stay – in France.

LA RÉSERVE, PARIS

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Devotees of art, culture and shopping will be instantly drawn to this classic Haussmannera mansion, refurbished with 26 luxury suites and 15 stunning guest rooms, together with a full range of traveller comforts. Enter through the landscaped street frontage and you’ll encounter a contemporary Parisian interior by Jacques Garcia, known for his transformational work on some of the city’s finest restaurants and hotels. From each room, resplendent in silk hung walls, velvet drapes, waffle-weave fabrics, herringbone oak parquet and beautiful antique furniture, you’ll have access to a personal butler, state-of-the-art technology and glimpses of the city outside. A highlight is the hotel’s two Michelinstar restaurant, Le Gabriel, which offers an inspirational French menu led by seasonal produce. Other establishments Le Bar and La Pagode de Cos round out the offering, with global flavours and fine nightcaps. All are available around the clock, including as room service if so desired. La Réserve has a private library lounge exclusively reserved for guests, an inner courtyard, and a spa comprising an indoor pool, steam room, gym area and three treatment rooms. La Réserve sits midway between the Champs-Élysées and Faubourg Saint-Honoré, moments from the Place de la Concorde and Avenue Montaigne. From the rooftop, gaze over the Grand Palais, Eiffel Tower, Obelisk and other timeless Paris monuments.

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DOMAINE LES CRAYÈRES A Relais & Châteaux property www.lescrayeres.com www.relaischateaux.com/us/france/ crayeres-marne-reims Opposite page: The luxurious private pool at La Réserve Paris; Take in the sights and sounds of Paris from the comfort of this urban retreat (all photos © La Réserve Paris).

DOMAINE LES CRAYÈRES, REIMS Tucked away like a love letter into the folds of a skirt, Les Crayères sits in a lush 7-hectare park in the city centre. This former château belonging to the Polignac family offers 20 rooms and suites, all resplendent in the French ideal of hospitality, with its service, food and attention to every detail. In the hotel’s famed two-Michelin star restaurant, Le Parc, chef Philippe Mille’s inspired, seasonally attuned plates are presented with intricate and graceful service. While Les Crayères makes the perfect base from which to explore the riches of Champagne, it is just as delightful to wander the vineyards virtually – by perusing Le Parc’s 700-label champagne list. The list is even longer when you count all the major labels’ sub-brands. For those who want to see the 6th and 7th stages of the Tour de France 2017 in Troyes, the five-star Les Crayères is just an hour and a

half by car. This year’s tour is all about arduous climbs, and the sprint through the broad streets of central Troyes promises to be exhilarating and refreshing. Afterwards, celebrate the victories of the day or blithely forget its setbacks at Le Parc, where even the sea salt-flecked butter is memorable.

Top: Courtyard terrace at Les Crayères; Above: the undoubtedly talented chefs of Le Parc (all photos © Les Crayeres).

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LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE, BORDEAUX

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Above: One of La Grande’Vigne’s eye-pleasing and mouthwatering creations (photo ©J Boyer); below: wine cellars at Les Sources de Caudalie (photo © M Cellard).

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LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE www.sources-caudalie.com

In Bordeaux, the enjoyment of wine and food is synonymous to life itself. Where else could anything like the Marathon de Medoc be so successful? The September event gleefully breaks all the rules, and costumed runners are encouraged to stop along the route for wine, feasts and a swim. For participants who need to recover or simply need an escape from the mêlée, Les Sources de Caudalie offers a serene retreat replete with a spa that features vinothérapie – a treatment that contains grape extracts. Each of Les Sources de Caudalie’s eight dynamically designed guest houses tells the story of Bordeaux’s history, while its 25 rooms and 41 suites celebrate the region’s natural beauty. Guests can nestle into the romance of Bordeaux’s New-Aquitaine region in the gardenside Hare Cottage, or the airy, feminine decor of the Bird Island Suite. Surrounded by vineyards, this hamlet of luxury could not be fully experienced without a wine tasting in The French Paradox bar and The Tasting Tower. For a casual meal, take a table at La Table du Lavoir, set in the former washhouse used by the winegrowers’ wives. Be sure to dine at La Grand’Vigne, where the menu celebrates each season with reverence and simplicity. 74

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Above: Cruise through the acres of greenery at La Bastide de Marie; below: after a day of exploring, curl up with a glass of wine and canine friend (photos © Home Production, D.Andre, B.Toul and DR).

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LA BASTIDE DE MARIE www.labastidedemarie.com

LA BASTIDE DE MARIE, PROVENCE Provence’s pleasures and unique sense of ease are keenly felt at La Bastide de Marie. The spacious maison with 14 rooms (including six suites) beckons friends to gather around the impressive grand fireplace, or relax upstairs in the comfort of the library. The property, surrounded by 57 acres of vineyards, is an oasis of leisure populated with olive trees, lavender hedges and walkways that beg to be explored. Find the two-level pool crafted out of an ancient pond, or discover a new serenity at the Pure Altitude spa with a massage among the vines. Better yet, lounge poolside and dream of a down to earth life in Provence. La Bastide de Marie is open April to November and for special Christmas stays, when you can see Provence in a magical light. Wander the impossibly charming Christmas markets in town where the smell of mulled wine fills the air and holiday spirit is steeped into every sip. Make a sport of the holiday and embark on a black truffle hunt with La Bastide de Marie’s local truffle hunter. Afterward, the hotel chef will prepare the treasured finds simply and elegantly, so as to preserve their freshness in memory alone. MAGAZINE

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DISCOVER FRANCE LIKE A LOCAL THROUGH THE WINDOWS OF A TRAIN Imagine the allure of a place so stunning that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recognised as a top destination for travellers around the globe. This is France: with its rolling vineyards, fine food, and incomparable art. The high-speed TGV connects Paris to over 200 cities within France, such as Avignon, Dijon, Lyon, and Bordeaux. Wherever your adventures take you, the train will take you from the centre of one city to the centre of the next, allow you to indulge in food and beverages in the bar/buffet car or create your own on-board picnic, and arrive ready for a full day of frolicking. The Eurail France Pass provides you with extensive travel on the national rail network of France, as well as fabulous discounts. Or individual train tickets may be better suited to your needs, ideal for itineraries that include fewer cities.

www.raileurope.com.au/visit-france

An Authentic European Experience Awaits

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HOTEL METROPOLE MONTECARLO, MONACO www.metropole.com

HOTEL METROPOLE MONTE-CARLO Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo showcases Monte-Carlo’s royal glamour with refined service and unrestrained elegance. Each of the 126 rooms and suites of the five-star hotel have been painstakingly restored to celebrate the hotel’s roots in the Golden Age. From the shimmering fabrics to the Carrera marble-adorned bathrooms, each room is exquisite. For Formula 1 fans, staying at the Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo means being able to watch the race from the luxury of the hotel terrace, where fine wine and food complete the experience. The annual January Circus Festival receives royal attention, as an international array of performers compete to be awarded best in show by a jury led by HSH Princess Stephanie. Dining at any one of the four eateries is a Monte-Carlo spectacle in itself. The most accessible experience is the Lobby Bar, with its delicate bites and custom-made cocktails, and background music designed by Béatrice Ardisson. Exclusive to Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo guests is the Odyssey, a poolside restaurant whose view of the sky opens and closes with the seasons. The Michelin star-awarded 40-seat Yoshi, which serves delicate Japanese fare tailored to French sensibilities, overlooks a Japanese-themed garden. Meanwhile, the two-Michelin star Restaurant Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo opens out to the sea and celebrates the Mediterranean in fare and décor.

Above: Take a dip and then dine at the hotel’s very own poolside restaurant (photo © L Galaup); right: a grand exterior to match Metropole’s grander interior (photo © E Cuvillier). MAGAZINE

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Above: Sun-drenched stonework and southern French plantings create an unforgettable impression. Right: Challenge yourself at Terre Blanche’s two 18-hole championship golf courses (all photos © Terre Blanche).

Provence

SPLENDOUR on the green WHETHER YOU’RE A SEASONED GOLFER OR AN ABSOLUTE BEGINNER, TERRE BLANCHE HOTEL SPA GOLF RESORT IS THE IDEAL PLACE TO PLAY AND PRACTISE. LET THE BEAUTY OF ITS PROVENÇAL SURROUNDS INSPIRE YOUR SWING! BY GRETCHEN HOLM

he sunlight in Provence is a luminous gold, painting the landscape with a glow that makes the purple lavender and green grass seem surreal in their brilliance. And nowhere is this natural beauty more pronounced than at the breathtaking Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort. 78

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France offers dozens of picturesque settings in which to play golf, but this resort’s two 18-hole courses stand out as exceptional. In fact, prestigious Golf World (UK) magazine recently named Terre Blanche as the number-one golf resort in continental Europe for 2017. The hills and bunkers of Le Château are perfect for golfers seeking a true championship course. However, all players will thrill to its brilliant blue water features and vibrant green fairways. With a handicap limit of 35, this course is accessible even to those still mastering their skills. The steep, hilly fairways of the Le Riou course are also demanding, providing a challenge for every awe-inspiring view. Staying at the resort affords guests the rare opportunity to play here, as Le Riou is reserved exclusively for patrons and club members. With courses of this calibre, Terre Blanche

is ideal for experienced golfers with a strong sense of the game. Meanwhile, its Leadbetter Academy is open year-round to ensure that golfers of all levels enjoy plenty of personalised instruction. Here, guests use Biomecaswing, a unique system of biomechanical analysis, to pinpoint the moves they need to improve and thereby optimise their performance. Academy manager Alain Alberti coaches members of both the European and Challenge tours, so the lessons are of the highest standard.

APRÈS SWING After a day on the sun-drenched course, what could be better than a massage at the resort’s luxury spa? Relieve sore muscles with a soothing treatment, many of which are enhanced with Provençal touches, such as the lavender aromatherapy that accompanies various massages.

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Dining at Terre Blanche is bound to be a highlight of your stay. At Les Caroubiers, guests can continue to enjoy golfing (albeit vicariously) as they enjoy their meal – this clubhouse restaurant offers a stunning view of the course. For visitors whose interest in world-class cuisine outweighs their love of golf, the resort offers an even more extraordinary gastronomic experience. The menu at Michelin-starred Le Faventia features gourmet dishes such as wineinfused foie gras, Thai-style blue lobster and roast pigeon. Looking for lighter fare? Le Gaudina is ideal for a cosy brunch, making it a great place to grab a bite before a late-morning or afternoon game. Rounding out the dining options is the summer restaurant, Le Tousco. Relax on the shady terrace, or, if you’re keeping an eye on the kids frolicking in the water, next to the infinity pool.

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ATTENTION TO DETAIL • Many avid golfers bring the whole family to Terre Blanche. To ensure everyone enjoys the visit, the Kids Club keeps the little ones entertained with shows and games, among other daily activities. • A distinctly Provençal feel prevails throughout the resort, and its interiors are suitably generous. The 115 suites and villas are large enough to let guests spread out, with even the basic suites measuring 60 square metres. Of course, the prestige villas are more luxurious – each features a private terrace and, depending on the villa, two to four bathrooms. • The easiest way to get to Terre Blanche is to hire a car at Nice Airport and drive southwest for 45 minutes. Some of Provence’s most beloved attractions are also within easy reach of the resort, so make time to see the per-

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fumeries of Grasse, the canyons at Verdon Gorges, and the lavender fields along the route to Avignon. • Terre Blanche offers a range of easy half- and full-day trips to these and other locations – from local vineyards, which you can explore by electric bicycle, to the Estérel coast, where you can splash into paddleboarding. Further Information Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort en.terre-blanche.com

Above: The resort’s infinity pool has luxe loungers, intimate cabanas and dreamy views across the valley. MAGAZINE

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Northern France

Paths of GLORY

AS THE CENTENARY OF WORLD WAR ONE’S ARMISTICE APPROACHES, ORGANISATIONS THROUGHOUT NORTHERN FRANCE OFFER VISITORS A SLEW OF COMPELLING EXPERIENCES BEYOND THE BATTLEFIELDS. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

he battlefields of Northern France were the backdrop for some of the greatest sacrifice of human life that the world has ever seen. The Germans opened the Western Front right here by invading Belgium, Luxembourg and France in 1914. For the next four years, the combined Allied forces including Australia and New Zealand sought to drive them back. The battles at Verdun, the Somme, and Passchendaele must go down as the darkest days in human history, with more than a million casualties at the Battle of the Somme alone. A century on, we remember those who made the ultimate sacrifice. Nearly 300,000 soldiers from the Australian Imperial Force fought here alongside their European counterparts, and of those, more than half were killed or wounded. The soldiers who died in Northern France gave their lives for the freedom we enjoy today, so take time to reflect as you follow in their footsteps on forested hiking trails, explore the waterways, and enjoy the beauty of the countryside.

COASTLINES, CATHEDRALS AND CANALS Experience a daring arts scene at the Louvre in Lens, built over a former coal extraction shaft, or La Piscine in Roubaix, an arts and industry museum set within the grand art deco setting of a former swimming pool. The region’s untarnished coastline is as suited to kite surfing as it 80

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is to bird-watching. Lush woodlands and serene marshlands provide options for hiking, boating and just generally rejuvenating the senses, while the region’s hearty cuisine provides soul-warming sustenance. Your contemplative travels might begin in the UNESCO-listed cathedral city of Amiens. Its Gothic architecture, medieval houses and canals remain unchanged, even after the unimaginable trauma of war. The 13th-century Amiens NotreDame Cathedral is famous for its stained-glass windows, and a façade so ornate that Victorian English poet John Ruskin once described it as: “lacework carved in stone.” The Hortillonnages, known as the ‘floating gardens’ is a 300-hectare network of canals, each flanked by exquisite ornamental and market gardens. Canals such as these have criss-crossed much of the region since the 7th century. This was when Benedictine monks began carving channels through the Audomarois and other marshes, to drain the peaty soil for cultivation. Their efforts are now UNESCO heritage-listed. Not far from Amiens is Lille, once a respite for battle-worn German soldiers. Today, its green citadel is the city’s lungs. Walk along the grand boulevards, and admire the Flemish-influenced architecture around the main square. The paved streets of Vieux-Lille, the Old Town, have incontestable charm, and its intimate brasseries and cafés are the perfect spot to sit, have a coffee, and watch the world go by.

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Clockwise from main: Shopping in Vieux-Lille (photo © Alphand); kite surfing at Le Crotoy; (photo © SommeTourisme); the celebrated façade of Amiens cathedral (photo © ADRT80/F Leonardi).

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Poppies along the white cliffs of Bois de Cise in the Somme (photo © C Pegard).

THE AUSTRALIAN CONNECTION The Northern France regions of Nord, Pasde-Calais, Somme and Picardy were major strategic targets for the Allied and Central Powers from the start of World War One. It was the first part of France to fall to German occupation and remained a battlefield for the next four years. Consequently, more than 1,000 military cemeteries dot the landscape. The Australian Remembrance Trail highlights the places where Australian soldiers fought and died. Its northernmost point is Ypres in Belgium, from which the trail winds southwards to Northern France’s many important sites. At Fromelles, the VC Corner Australian Cemetery harbours the remains of Australian soldiers who perished in a 1916 assault on German lines, and the nearby Australian Memorial Park is where you will see the famous Bullecourt Digger. The story is told further at the Battle of Fromelles Museum. Further along the Australian Remembrance Trail you might visit the Windmill site and the Memorial to the First Australian Division at Pozières, the Fourth Australian Division 82

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Memorial at Bellenglise, and the recently renewed Franco-Australian Museum in VillersBretonneux. Throughout the trail, interpretive markers bring the soldiers’ feats and daring to life for visitors, 100 years on. At the Jean and Denise Letaille Museum, visitors can see an intimate portrayal of the Battle of Arras via a range of artefacts. Several grueling battles took place here in the spring of 1917, and some 10,771 Australians were killed in the process. Jean and Denise Letaille were local farmers who collected war relics from their fields, and the museum, funded in part by the Australian Government, opened on Anzac Day 2012.

BATTLE OF THE SOMME Not surprisingly, many of the sites along the trail honour the infamous Battle of the Somme. Already exhausted after the Gallipoli Campaign in 1915, the Anzac forces went on to suffer horrific losses in the Somme trenches, especially in 1916. In Pozières alone, Australia suffered 23,000 casualties, of whom 6,700 perished. Nevertheless, the Australians returned to the front later that year, to help hold the lines

during one of the coldest winters on record. Their involvement continued until the war’s end. Several key battles were fought at VillersBretonneux by the Australian Imperial Force in April 1918, heroically stopping the Germans from taking Amiens, and it is here that you will find the Australian National Memorial. A sobering 11,000 names are inscribed on this monument, each one remembering a soldier who died in France and has no known grave. The monument stands within the VillersBretonneux Military Cemetery, created after the Armistice, where many of the Australian soldiers were buried. Australian soldiers are also buried at hundreds of other cemeteries across the Western Front, including nearby Pozières, Le Hamel and Péronne. Further Information Northern France Regional Tourist Board www.northernfrance-tourism.com Somme Tourist Board www.visit-somme.com

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Main: Artist’s impression of the soon-to-open Sir John Monash Centre (image © Cox Architects); below: headstones at the Australian National Memorial in VillersBretonneux (photo © Nicolas Bryant).

INTRODUCING THE SIR JOHN MONASH CENTRE, APRIL 2018 The Sir John Monash Centre, named in honour of the general who led the Australian Corps in 1918, will open to the public on Anzac Day 2018, marking 100 years since the end of World War One. This monumental site will educate visitors about the outstanding role which Australian forces played on the Western Front, and the country’s role in early international affairs. Situated close to Villers-Bretonneux, and adjacent to the majestic Australian National Memorial, the centre is designed by Cox Architecture and semi-submerged in the ground. A turf roof provides the symbolic link to the surrounding fields. The centre will include Sir Edward Lutyens’ unbuilt paths. These terraced walkways were part of Lutyens’ original plan for the Australian National Memorial, but due to the austerity of the Great Depression, they were never built. Now, finally, their construction is underway, and visitors will walk upon them between the centre and the memorial. To create an immersive multimedia experience, the Department of Veterans’ Affairs is working closely with WildBear Entertainment and leading military historians. They will use archival footage, maps, soundscapes, and digital animation to bring their harrowing subject to life, ensuring we never forget (www.dva.gov.au).

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Night sky above Arras Town Hall.

Arras KISS of remembrance

ARRAS, KNOWN TO HISTORY BUFFS AS THE SITE OF AN IMPORTANT BATTLE IN WORLD WAR ONE, IS ALSO CHARMING, MULTIFACETED AND BRIMFUL WITH MEMORABLE ATTRACTIONS. BY GRETCHEN HOLM

or all its history, Arras offers contrast at every turn. In the city centre, two remarkable Flemishstyle squares stand in beautiful contrast to the abundance of Art Deco architecture (a result of the massive rebuilding after the war). Gourmet restaurants serve some of the best food in the region, but you can’t skip the Baraques à frites (food trucks) with their French fries. Unusual sights, flavours and activities round out the experience.

HYMN TO THE FALLEN As you walk Arras’ quaint yet majestic streets today, it’s hard at first to imagine the area as the site of a battle, or that the damage was so extensive that the majority of the city needed to be rebuilt after the war. This year, though, marks the centenary of the 1917 Battle of Arras, which had nearly 300,000 combined casualties. Go a little deeper – literally – and you can experience first-hand the city’s heritage as part of the Western Front. The Wellington 84

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Tunnels (www.carrierewellington.com) are like an underground museum, where visitors can tour parts of the tunnels dug by New Zealand tunnelers to billet 24,000 British soldiers before the Battle of Arras. The Arras Memorial, located in the Faubourg-d’Amiens Cemetery, commemorates nearly 36,000 soldiers who died nearby and have no known grave. The Arras Flying Services Memorial, dedicated to nearly a thousand airmen who lost their lives, is located within this cemetery as well. Nearby is the fascinating Jean and Denise Letaille Museum - Bullecourt 1917. Its displays centre around the collection of Mr and Mrs Letaille, who spent much of their lives piecing together an assortment of found objects from their fields and the surrounding area. Many of the items are Australian.

FOOD, STAYS AND SHOPPING There are various explanations for the shape of Arras’ distinctive chocolate rats, the

most interesting being that the city’s limestone tunnels led to its citizens being equated with rodents. Equally distinctive are the Coeurs d’Arras. Both types – one a sort of ginger cookie, and the other made of strong cheese – come in the shape of a heart, as the name suggests. By now, it’s doubtless clear that Arras’ history and identity are deeply linked with its tunnels. What better way to savour this connection than with some underground dining? L’Ambassade (www.lambassadedarras. fr), located in a cellar, offers excellent regional and locally sourced cuisine. Another cellar option, La Cave des Saveurs (www. lacavedessaveurs.fr), focuses on combining flavour with health by enlisting the help of a nutritionist in its menu creation. Arras is the perfect destination for historic accommodations. The centrally located Hôtel de l’Univers (www.univers.najeti.fr) is a converted 17th-century Jesuit monastery. At La Corne d’Or (www.lamaisondhotes.com/welcome-tola-corne-dor/), the cellars date back to the 13th

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Clockwise from top left: Inside the Wellington tunnels; Christmas markets in the main square; house-boating in the Scarpe Valley (all photos © Cituation et Ensemble).

century, while the converted mansion is from the 1700s. To crown it all, the owner is Australian.

OUTDOORS IN ARRAS Beyond historic Arras lies a wealth of active attractions in a beautiful region that offers countless outdoor choices. The nearby golf club, Le Golf D’Arras, features 27 holes on two serenely picturesque courses in the Scarpe Valley. If golf isn’t your hobby of choice, explore any of the 15 walking and hiking trails in and around the city. To combine activity with history, rent a bike and ride the nearby Great War Cycling Trail in Artois. Along this 29-kilometre trail, you’ll be able to explore 16 different sites related to World War One. And if you want some insight into navigating these or any other facets of Arras, the Northern France Experience App offers a wonderful guided walk through the city. Further Information Arras Tourist Office www.explorearras.com MAGAZINE

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The Australian National Memorial and park at Villers-Bretonneux (photo © Fabien Milhaud); below: the author and his latest book.

Interview Battle SCARS WRITER, BIOGRAPHER AND FORMER WALLABIES PLAYER PETER FITZSIMONS CONFRONTS THE HORRORS OF THE WESTERN FRONT IN HIS LATEST BOOK, VICTORY AT VILLERS-BRETONNEUX. WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE AUTHOR TO LEARN WHY HISTORY REMAINS SUCH A RICH SOURCE OF INSPIRATION. I have a long association with France, having lived there from 1985 to 1989. Still, none of my ancestors fought there – my grandfather fought in the Boer War, and my parents fought in World War Two. I first began writing while living in France, which led to my first book, Basking in Beirut, and ideas for Tobruk and Kokoda. Australia’s wartime involvement in France is a moving chapter for me. Gallipoli commands a lot of historians’ focus, but it’s just one story of Australian achievement. Australian heroism marked a turning point in both world wars. During World War Two, from 1939 to 1941, Germany overran much of continental Europe, but the Australians stopped the enemy forces at Tobruk. The Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor in 1941; took Taiwan, Korea and Singapore; and came down to Papua New Guinea before the Australians stopped them. While researching my latest book in France, I had an Oxford professor take me around the key sites. I was particularly moved by Fromelles. To stand at the new visitors’ lookout and see the green, swampy land is to understand the sheer horror of what those men faced, running headlong into artillery. 86

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At Pozières, it took Allied forces 14 hours to travel half a mile up to the famous windmill (which is now a ruin). They paid for every yard of that distance with much bloodshed – nearly 7,000 Australians lost their lives there. I hope that during this period, the centenary of World War One, young Australians give some thought to the many good men and women who fought abroad and were injured or perished there. In my writing, I want to make the skeletons dance, even when I’m covering strategic aspects, such as Churchill’s mad decision to attack the Dardanelles. It’s crazy to think that Australia rushed into that war as Britain’s loyal sons. My hope is that in future battles, we don’t have that extra flag on our flag. [Our participation in] World War Two is understandable, with the Holocaust and the madman Hitler to contain, but, as Paul Keating so eloquently put it at a recent memorial service for Remembrance Day, World War One was about European tribalism. France has overhauled many World War One museums and sites for the centenary. So despite years of wear and tear, they’re looking fantastic. Like similar sites in Australia, they’re all fine

facilities, with sophisticated displays, high-tech features and landscaped surrounds. I’ve attended several Anzac Day ceremonies in France, often giving speeches. Next year I’ll probably be preparing to visit France again, as I’m hosting a Somme river cruise in June through July. There’s talk of another cruise in 2018, so stay posted. My next writing goal is to set down the story of Burke and Wills, and, maybe afterwards, that of Le Hamel and Monash’s masterly strategy there. Further Information www.peterfitzsimons.com.au

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Left and top: Memorial plaque (photo © Nicolas Bryant) and ceremony (photo © Mathieu Farcy) at the First Australian Division Memorial, Pozières. Above: Outlook over former battlefields at the Australian National Memorial, Villers-Bretonneux (photo © Nicolas Bryant).

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Passchendaele

In Flanders FIELDS ONE HUNDRED YEARS ON, PASSCHENDAELE IN FLANDERS REMAINS A UNIVERSAL SYMBOL FOR THE HORROR AND SENSELESS SLAUGHTER OF WORLD WAR ONE.

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ought in a dreadful muddy quagmire, the Battle of Passchendaele was one of the bloodiest and most costly World War One campaigns – more than 450,000 men, including more than 38,000 Australians and 5,300 New Zealanders, lost their lives for no real gain. In 2017 Flanders Fields, the former battlegrounds of south-west Belgium, welcome visitors to commemorate this historic battle’s centenary. Throughout the year, a program of special events and activities will help people to recognise and remember the sacrifices that so many made 100 years ago. To explore Flanders Fields, visitors can walk along trails, cycle, cruise the canals, or tour by car. The region’s charming towns, which include Ypres, Zonnebeke, Mesen (Messines) and Poperinge, are

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This page: Anzac cross inscribed with words of thanks for fallen soldiers (photo © Henk Deleu). Opposite: making a date with history (photo © Steven Ledoux).

home to fascinating museums and memorials that bring the area’s rich history to life. The former battlefields, which are now peaceful countryside, also have stories to tell. The landscape is dotted with craters, graveyards and pillboxes – all testimony to the scale and brutality of the conflict, which is described as a red stain in the mud of warfare’s history. To mark the sacrifice of the Anzacs, Australia and New Zealand will each hold their own ceremonies of remembrance – Australia on 26 September, and New Zealand on 12 October. Further Information Visit Flanders www.visitflanders.com/en/passchendaele www.flandersfields1418.com Program of events for 100 Years of the Battle of Passchendaele: www.passchendaele2017.org

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Active

Pedalling into the PAST TAKE A SPIN THROUGH THE PICTURESQUE FIELDS OF YPRES, A PEACEFUL RURAL LANDSCAPE THAT WAS ONCE SUBJECTED TO THE HORROR AND DEVASTATION OF WORLD WAR ONE

crisp morning greets us as we head off on our ride around the former battlegrounds of Belgium’s Flanders Fields. We’ve spent the night in the charming medieval town of Ypres. Although completely destroyed during World War One, the town was faithfully rebuilt, brick by brick, and is now restored to its former glory. Today we’re taking the Ypres Salient, a 36-kilometre circular cycle route that begins and ends in Ypres. It’s an easy ride: the region is very flat; the roads are uncrowded; and, because of cycling’s popularity in Belgium, drivers seem to give riders a wide berth. We’re soon spinning past peaceful landscapes; a light mist hangs over fields filled with crops of maize, leeks and hops. We happily stop to let a farmer move his dairy cattle across the road. Still, our surrounds remind us that this is no

ordinary rural scene. Cemeteries, craters and the remains of bunkers dot the landscape – legacies of the horror and loss that Flanders Fields saw 100 years ago during World War One, when the area formed part of the notorious Western Front. Our first stop is Essex Farm Cemetery, which is also the site of a former dressing station where wounded soldiers received emergency treatment. This station is most likely where Canadian doctor John McCrae wrote his famous war poem, which begins ‘In Flanders fields the poppies blow … ’. Later in the day, we reach Hill 60 and Caterpillar Crater, a significant site for Australian remembrance. In June 1917, Australian tunnellers dug a 500-metre-long tunnel here to plant and

detonate explosives under German lines. Cycling seems to have brought our hearts and minds close to the history of sacrifice in Flanders Fields, so it’s fitting that we finish our day on the remembrance trail by attending the daily Last Post ceremony under the Menin Gate. Further Information Visit Flanders www.visitflanders.com www.flandersfields1418.com For bookings and information on cycling tours in Flanders Fields: www.utracks.com

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Memoir

A soldier’s TALE MEET THE BRAVE ALL BLACK WHOSE DETERMINATION TOOK HIM FROM THE SPORTSGROUND TO THE BATTLEFIELDS IN FLANDERS, WHERE HE MADE THE ULTIMATE SACRIFICE.

D From above: Gallaher’s burial site at Nine Elms cemetery, adorned with rugby memorabilia (photo © Richard Fletcher); official photo of Sergeant Gallaher. 90

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avid Gallaher was captain of the 1905 New Zealand ‘Originals’ All Blacks. He first experienced battle during the Boer War in South Africa, and after his younger brother was killed in action in France in 1916, he enlisted again. Despite being in his forties, Gallaher was incredibly fit and fearless, whether facing a scrum or a skirmish. “Dave was a man of sterling worth … girded by great self-determination and self-control,” said Ernest Booth, a member of the Originals. “He was a valuable friend and could be, I think, a remorseless foe.” Sergeant Gallaher met his end on the morning of 4 October 1917, when the New Zealand Division launched its assault on Gravenstafel Spur in the Battle of Passchendaele. Although regarded as a military success, the attack came at the cost of more than 320 New Zealand lives. Badly wounded by a piece of shrapnel to the head, Gallaher was admitted to an Australian Casualty Clearing Station, but died later that day.

Gallaher is buried at Nine Elms British Cemetery in Poperinge, Belgium. Official records list him as 41 years old at the time of his death, but, having lowered his age to volunteer for the Boer War, he was actually nearly 44. His legacy lives on thanks to the David Gallaher Cup, a trophy that’s been awarded to the winner of the first rugby test between New Zealand and France every year since 2000. Gallaher’s grave has become not only a place of pilgrimage for All Blacks teams playing in Europe, but also a special place of remembrance for rugby fans of all nationalities. Further Information Nine Elms Cemetery is located on Helleketelweg, Poperinge, Belgium, a 20-minute drive West from Ypres. www.cwgc.org www.flandersfields1418.com

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s Above: Beautiful Bruges, punctuated by canals and paved with cobblestone streets.

Flanders

Floating through HISTORY REFLECT ON THE TRIALS AND TRIUMPHS OF WARTIME ON A FASCINATING CRUISE ALONG TRANQUIL FLEMISH WATERWAYS, WHERE THE PAST FLICKERS INTO LIFE.

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have the best job in the world,” says Eric, our instructor, as he demonstrates how to navigate the boat through the lock. And as we cruise out of Nieuwpoort, it’s hard to disagree. Soon we’re meandering along beautiful, calm canals during the start of our Peace Cruise through Belgium’s Flanders Fields. Eric gets talking about our itinerary, focusing particularly on our interest in World War One. “It’s unbelievable to us Belgians that so many Australians died to protect our country,” he says. “We must remember that we enjoy our good life today because of this sacrifice a century ago.” Our well-appointed boat is ideal for two couples, and, following instructions, we navigate the canals ourselves for the rest of the route. It’s a journey of approximately 160 kilometres that winds past serene rural scenes interspersed with some of Flanders’ most charming and vibrant locales, including Ypres, in Flanders Fields, and Bruges, one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities. Ypres is a real highlight of our trip. In town, we visit the In Flanders Fields Museum, where

inspirational exhibitions use the latest technology to help tell the personal stories of World War One soldiers and witnesses. From here, a 10-minute walk takes us to the Ramparts Cemetery, a small military gravesite where a number of Anzacs lie buried, resting in the most poignant surrounds. Tours of the nearby battlefield areas are readily available from Ypres. And thanks to the short distances, it’s easy to cover many points of interest in a day. Later in the week, we cruise on to Bruges, famous for its evocative beauty and picture-perfect panoramas – and this marvellous city doesn’t disappoint. We certainly found that Flanders’ waterways showcase the region in all its now-peaceful glory. Further Information Visit Flanders www.visitflanders.com www.leboat.com.au

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Above: The Ryder Cup at Château de Versaille, which is a stone’s throw from the championship venue (photo © Getty Images).

s sports spectatorship grows increasingly premium in nature, golfing fans planning to visit France for the 2018 Ryder Cup are in for a treat. Let’s start with the setting, Le Golf National in Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, 25 kilometres outside Paris. Before opening in 1991, this was a grassy expanse so flat you could almost see to the edge of Paris. The expertly crafted course now in place offers a demanding yet exquisite

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Golf Easy RYDER

IN SEPTEMBER 2018, THE RYDER CUP WILL BE HELD FOR THE FIRST TIME IN FRANCE. HERE’S HOW TO ENJOY THE CHAMPIONSHIP EVENT IF YOU’RE A GOLF AFICIONADO WHO ALSO LOVES FRENCH STYLE.

topography for its many visiting champion players, whether during the annual French Open or other prestige competitions held on its flagship Albatros course. Ten water features and spectacular mounding present a formidable challenge at almost every hole. The par 4s at holes 15 and 18 take place on a narrow island green, right in front of the spectator seating. Beyond the grandstands and corporate tents, fans and the media can enjoy brilliant vantage points all around the course. This is the advantage of a stadium course like Le Golf National, even with its capacity of 70,000 per day: viewers don’t have to stand on tiptoe all day or peer around journalists’ filming units, because their stance has been considered from the outset. A just-finished €10 million overhaul of the course has delivered even more comforts. These

include 15 kilometres of new roads and cart paths, drinking water piped throughout, and modifications to many of the bunkers and holes. The hotel and dining facilities have been transformed as well, with generous rooms, compelling menus and a soon-to-open luxury spa being some highlights. Stay a little longer and you’ll be able to try your hand on the slightly less intimidating 18-hole Eagle or 9-hole Oisolete courses, or the high-tech driving range. Visit their website well ahead of time for official ticket and accommodation packages. Further Information Ryder Cup September 28 – 30, 2018 www.rydercup.com

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Top: The 2018 Ryder Cup’s hosting just outside Paris will draw thousands of visitors (photo © Getty Images); below: water feature at Le Golf National (photo © P Millereau).

INTERVIEW Tell us about the golfing opportunities visitors can experience in France. France currently has more than 730 golf courses, of which 22 are ranked among the world’s top 1,000 courses. More courses are being shaped even as we speak.

We caught up with Christian Mantei, President, Tourism Commission of the Ryder Cup, to learn what the country’s most eminent tourism professionals are planning for the 2018 event.

What can visitors expect from the Ryder Cup venue in 2018? The event will be staged at Le Golf National in Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, just 25 kilometres from Paris and its major transport hubs. This magnificent stadium course has hosted the French Open since 1991, and can comfortably hold more than 70,000 spectators per day. It will guarantee a compelling, world-class experience.

Will the event be very French? Apart from its superb facilities, France will bring its art de vivre to the 2018 Ryder Cup, befitting the country’s reputation as the most popular tourist destination in the world. Outstanding hospitality and great cuisine will welcome every visitor. How can visitors make the most of their France stay during the Ryder Cup? Fans will be within easy reach of Paris and famous nearby attractions, including of course the Château de Versailles. The Paris Museum Pass will be available at a preferential rate in 2018 to Ryder Cup spectators, allowing access to more than 50 museums and monuments in Paris and its region for this week.

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Citadines Apart’hotel offers a unique stay concept in the heart of major cities supported with a wide choice of personalised hotel-style services. Staying with Citadines offers you flexibility and independence. Want to cook your favourite meal? Stay for a night? A month? It’s your choice. Experience independent city living in more than 60 Citadines properties in the world, including 30 properties in France (16 in Paris).

www.citadines.com Citadines Apart’hotel is managed by The Ascott Limited, a member of CapitaLand. It is the largest international serviced residence owner-operator with more than 290 properties in over 100 cities across the Americas, Asia Pacific, Europe and the Gulf region. It operates three award-winning brands Ascott, Citadines and Somerset.

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The Esplanade des Invalides will be converted into an arena.

Paris

Joyeux Olympic

PARIS IS THE HOT FAVOURITE TO HOST THE 2024 SUMMER OLYMPICS. VISITORS WILL DISCOVER A CITY ‘MADE FOR SHARING’, AS THE SLOGAN SAYS, WHEN THE CAPITAL DELIVERS A WEALTH OF HEALTHY CHANGE. BY SUSAN GOUGHHENLY

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CAMINO DE SANTIAGO - WAY OF ST JAMES

Walk or cycle in the footsteps of pilgrims along Europe’s most popular trail to the shrine of St James the Apostle in northwest Spain. Guided or self-guided routes from Le Puy or across the Pyrenees from SaintJean-Pied-de-Port in France or Porto in Portugal to Santiago de Compostella.

WALKING HOLIDAYS

Spectacular routes through the French and Spanish Pyrenees from the mountains to the Atlantic or the Mediterranean Sea. See the pretty villages of the Dordogne, Provence and Cote d’Azur or the alpine meadows of the Jura and Mont Blanc.

CYCLING HOLIDAYS

Easy to moderate guided or selfguided cycling over gentle terrain with routes from 25km to 50km per day through Champagne, Burgundy or the Loire Valley. Explore Bordeaux, Brittany, the Canal du Midi or the Camargue in Provence.

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Telephone 1800 331 582 www.outdoortravel.com.au MAGAZINE

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Celebrations on the Seine during the Paris 2024 bid (all photos © Paris 2024 – Luxigon).

aris’s iconic landmarks and spectacular boulevards would create an extraordinary setting for the 2024 Olympics, enchanting athletes and spectators alike. And let’s face it – it’s time: 100 years have passed since the capital last hosted the Games. What’s more, the city has a strong track record of safely and successfully running international sporting events, from the soccer and rugby world cups to the Tour de France finale and the French Open championships. The 2024 Olympic Games are set to run from 2 to 18 August, with the Paralympic Games to follow, from 4 to 15 September. At press time, Budapest had just withdrawn its bid to host the Games, leaving the race to Paris and Los Angeles. The International Olympic Committee (IOC) will announce the winning candidate on 13 September 2017.

REVITALISING THE SEINE The Paris 2024 Olympic plan proffers one of the world’s greatest cities as a stage for the world’s greatest athletes. The city’s proposal employs every public asset possible while simultaneously focusing on new developments to transform Paris’s youngest and most progressive areas. This compact, city-centred plan comprises two main venue zones and spotlights the Seine – the newly clean river will not only connect the zones, but also host the triathlon and marathon swimming events, thereby forming part of the sporting arena. After the Games, the Seine would remain a place for recreational swimming,

delighting generations of tourists and Parisians. Spectators will enjoy a river trail of live sites and sports-demonstration areas, among other athlete-led events, helping to bring the Olympic spirit into the heart of the city. This trail would complement the popular Paris Plages, a manmade beach that pops up on the riverbank from mid-July to mid-August every year.

OLD AND NEW Iconic Paris venues to feature during the 2024 Olympics include the Champs-Élysées, for cycling; the Grand Palais, for fencing and tae kwon do; the Esplanade des Invalides, for archery; and the Champ de Mars, for beach volleyball. The new Olympic Village and Aquatics Centre would support existing sports-focused developments in Seine-Saint-Denis, a department in the city’s north-east. Occupying the Cité du Cinéma studio complex, the Village would deliver 5,000 affordable homes and serve as an innovation laboratory for sustainable construction in the diverse and dynamic suburbs of Greater Paris.

GREENING THE CITY The new Left Bank riverside promenade, which stretches from Pont Royal to Pont de l’Alma, already offers visitors floating gardens, leisure areas, cafés and bars. The lovely Parc de Bercy, a set of three gardens on the site of former wine warehouses near the Gare de Lyon, is particularly popular for its themed flower beds and tree-shaded lawns.

A SPORTING SPIRIT The Olympic spirit forms part of the French national DNA, and every Olympic sport has a thriving and passionate community in France. French educator and historian, Pierre de Coubertin, was instrumental in reinstating the modern Olympic Games, largely because of his idealistic love of sport. He maintained that athletic competition promotes crosscultural understanding and peace, and that competing is more important than winning. The Pierre de Coubertin medal for the True Spirit of Sportsmanship is considered the highest award that an Olympic athlete can receive.

City planners are growing more green spaces, transforming car-dominated areas, such as Place de la République and Place de la Bastille into leafy areas for cyclists and pedestrians to enjoy. As we await the IOC’s final decision for 2024, we can be sure of this: every visitor to Paris during the Olympic Games will enjoy as much art d’innovation as they will art de vivre.

Further Information Paris 2024 www.paris2024.org/en

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Paris 2018

A rainbow of fun and GAMES

Starting with the opening gala at Grand Palais, the 2018 Gay Games promise to be an intoxicating blur of sports and culture (all photos © G Targat/CRT Paris Ile de France).

THE PARIS 2018 GAY GAMES 10 WILL PUT 40,000 INTERNATIONAL VISITORS FACETO-FACE WITH REMARKABLE ATHLETES OF ALL AGES AND ABILITIES NEXT YEAR, COMPETING IN SENSATIONAL VENUES ACROSS THE PARIS REGION.

f you haven’t heard of the Gay Games, you could be forgiven. From its 1982 start in San Francisco until now, the quadrennial event has attracted an audience and participant base that, with a majority of 80 per cent, has largely reflected its name. But that’s about to change, because the 10th Games is set to be the most inclusive international sports competition yet. Next year, from 4 to 12 August, 15,000 people from more than 70 countries will show up to represent all ages, sexual orientations and skill levels. The opening ceremony at Jean Bouin Stadium kicks off a nine-day program that will make the most of the Paris region’s pools, halls, arenas, pitches and sports parks. More than 36 sporting events and 14 cultural events – from rugby and pétanque to fashion shows and concerts – will offer every individual a chance to participate. Many events are free to attend, and some will take place in architecturally sublime venues, such as the Jean Dixmier tennis club, which has 98

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an Art Deco clubhouse. Of course, competitors differ in their abilities, but their passion levels the playing field. One participant is well over 70 and still wins medals for swimming in his age category. And at the 2014 Games, a 99-yearold woman broke her category’s world record for the 100-metre dash. Paris 2018 has several esteemed patrons and ambassadors, including fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier, Olympic and European

champion swimmer Gilles Rondy, worldchampion freestyle skier Ophélie David and track star Maguy Nestoret-Ontanon. In addition, a host of big-name corporate sponsors are backing the event’s agenda of inclusion, as are nearly 40 major sports associations. Further Information Paris 2018 www.paris2018.com.en

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conception : ARTO SAS - dress: «La Rubis» by Nadia Youjili - Instagram : nadiayoujili

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WINNING streak

THANKS TO ITS SUPPORT OF PRESTIGIOUS SPORTS EVENTS, FRANCE’S AVANT-GARDE CHAMPAGNE HOUSE, MAISON MUMM, IS RAISING THE BAR FOR SPORTS SPECTATORS IN AUSTRALIA AND ACROSS THE GLOBE.

t’s the first Tuesday in November, and office workers across Australia are pouring into lunch venues looking rather more festive than usual. Gay frocks and flirty hats have replaced charcoal suits, and even the menfolk have rolled out their pastels and pocket squares. Melbourne Cup Day, as we know, is much more than a horse race – it’s equally about the attire, celebrities, entertainments, marquees, and endless photo opportunities. Indeed, it’s thanks largely to high-profile sponsors such as Mumm, a flagship in the Martell Mumm Perrier-Jouët house of luxury tipples, that the Cup has taken on such a glamorous sheen. At the Maison Mumm marquee in The Birdcage at Flemington last year, highlights included a temporary pool, to evoke its Club de la Plage theme, and performances by Rosé Soleil. The troupe wowed guests with a flurry of aerial performances and other entertainment, featuring its singers, dancers, acrobats and DJs. Celebrity guests included Mumm Melbourne Cup Carnival ambassador, Pia Muehlenbeck, and stars from the stables of

An ice cold glass of Mumm champagne completes the Melbourne Cup experience.

Champagne house G. H. Mumm is known as a sponsor of daring athletes across the globe.

E! Entertainment, partner host for the event. News anchor Maria Menounos, Devious Maids heartthrob Grant Show, and cast members from Real Housewives of Auckland were all present. It’s all a world apart from stadium sports, where the shiniest surface you might see is the gleam of tomato sauce on a meat pie. And Mumm’s involvement with bigticket events goes much further. Recently, the 190-year-old champagne house partnered with skipper Armel le Cléach for the Vendée Globe sailing championship, appointed recordsmashing sprinter Usain Bolt as its Chief Entertainment Officer, and signed sponsorships with skiers, Formula E racers and musicians. So next time you watch the Melbourne Cup, raise a toast to the sophisticated sponsors who’ve helped make it so watchable.

Celebrity ambassador Pia Muehlenbeck embodies the signature Mumm red sash.

Further Information G.H. Mumm www.mumm.com MAGAZINE

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ALONG for the

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NORMANDY IS CYCLING HEAVEN, WHATEVER YOUR SPEED. SPINNING THROUGH SCENIC COUNTRYSIDE ALONG OPEN ROADS, YOU MIGHT EVEN STEP BACK IN TIME. BY JOANNE PALAZETTI

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Previous page: The peloton crosses to Normandy’s iconic Mont Saint-Michel (photo © Beardy McBeard). Above: Delectable Noix de Saint Jacques king scallops, a specialty of Normandy (photo © Calvados Tourisme).

rance is a vibrant patchwork of colour. Each region has its own distinct palette: Provence glows lavender and terracotta, the Alps shine snowy white, and the Pyrénées are dotted with grey stone cottages nestled among deep shades of green. In contrast, Normandy was a riot of colour. As the site of the Grand Départ of the 2016 Tour de France, the region was readying itself for the spectacle, and to welcome the fusion of skill, power and determination that is the peloton. Vivid yellow and green roadside decorations heralded the imminent arrival of Le Tour’s travelling circus, and everyone, including me and my cycling partner, wanted to join the fanfare.

LA CITÉ DE LA MER, AN OCEAN OF WONDERS Cherbourg’s Cité de la Mer is a mustsee Normandy attraction. Housed inside the seaport’s former transatlantic-ferry terminal, this maritime museum features the deepest aquarium in Europe. Standing 11 metres tall, the cylindrical tank showcases an incredible array of marine life, all of which you can view at various depths from different platforms. La Cité’s other major drawcard is Le

Redoutable, France’s first device-launching nuclear submarine. Decommissioned in 1991, the vessel spent two years in dry dock, where extensive work transformed it into a purposebuilt exhibit. Today, visitors can board the sub, the largest in the world that’s open to the public, and follow a guided audio tour of military life beneath the waves.

NORMANDY, A CYCLIST’S DREAM Our cycling guide, Bruno, had mapped out a 10-kilometre route that offered us three days of riding through the countryside, among villages and along rural roads. As a Sydney-based cyclist, I was eagerly anticipating the ride along roads that are more bike friendly than those at home. Still, we wanted to see more of the area. As welltravelled cyclists who’ve clocked up impressive mileage between us, we requested a longer distance, and those modest 10 kilometres soon rocketed to 60. Our three-person time trial across Normandy was exhilarating. The region’s relatively flat terrain and peaceful atmosphere combined to create a feeling that perhaps only a cyclist can fully appreciate. With barely a car in sight, we had the roads mostly to ourselves – and we took

CYCLE YOUR WAY The best cycling trips are inclusive. Some people crave adventure and challenging distances, whereas others have neither the interest nor the fitness to keep up. With its 500 kilometres of cycle paths and greenways, Normandy’s serene landscape is a fantastic solution. Casual cyclists can enjoy short jaunts along bike-friendly roads, winding routes through scenic forests, and easy rides across the low elevation. Experienced riders can take advantage of the flat stretches of road to cover longer distances. The route from Paris to Mont Saint-Michel, for example, is a 450-kilometre journey along open roads, cycleways and abandoned railway tracks.

full advantage of that freedom. As we barrelled along at a heady pace, the stares of dumbstruck cattle added to the fun, and a local even called out, “Ralentissez!” (slow down!).

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UTAH BEACH, A BRUSH WITH WARTIME Our expedition saw us ride from Carentan to Utah Beach along the Véloroute des plages du Débarquement au Mont Saint-Michel, the first of the two American landing zones during the 1944 Battle of Normandy. Excellent signage made the 25-kilometre route easy to follow, and the ever-changing scenery made the ride seem much richer. As rustic villages and riverside trails alternated with fields surrounding open roads, small memorials reminded us of our location’s significance. Indeed, following (well, cycling) in the Allied troops’ footsteps gave us a real sense of history. Travelling this way – on rough roads fringed by high foliage and along back roads through marshes and hedgerows – lent my trip an unprecedented significance. As a result, the sight of Utah Beach was deeply and unexpectedly moving, as was the Higgins Boat monument, which commemorates this landing craft and its crew. Although surrounded by a number of other visitors, we found ourselves holding a respectful silence of acknowledgment.

ROUEN, A REWARD FOR TRAVELLERS This lively capital initially struck me as a small Paris, and like the city of light, Rouen has a grand Notre-Dame. During the early 1890s, Rouen Cathedral inspired Monet to paint a series of Impressionist works depicting the different effects of light on its façade. The artist’s studio was directly opposite the cathedral, and I was lucky enough to sit in the very same room in which Monet created his masterpieces and enjoyed his vantage point. Normandy makes a generous contribution to French cuisine’s stellar reputation with its cheeses, seafood and pressed duck, among other local specialities. Every day, the Place du VieuxMarché plays host to a bustling food market where vendors sell fresh produce and prepare exquisite dishes. The main square is famous for a less cheerful reason: it’s where Joan of Arc burned at the stake. Unfortunately, I left Normandy having seen only the outside of France’s oldest inn, La Couronne, which has been receiving guests since 1345. I’ve accepted my regret as a standing invitation — this historic restaurant is a very good reason to return. Top: Cheering on cyclists at the Tour de France’s first stage (photo © Beardy McBeard); retracing the footsteps of allied soldiers at Utah Beach (photo © Edouard Valere).

Further Information Normandy en.normandie-tourisme.fr 106

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WITH THEIR SNOWBLANKETED SLOPES AND ENTICING APRÈSSKI ACTIVITIES, THESE TOP FRENCH SKI RESORTS WILL SHOW YOU THE HIGH LIFE. BY DANIELLE BRICKER

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o ski destination is more bucket-list worthy than Europe’s beloved Alps. Here, the French peaks attract their fair share of powder hounds, yet France also offers skiers something more – l’art de vivre, the art of living. So if you’re craving off-piste adventures that involve Michelin-starred meals and romantic sleigh rides, here’s where to ski.

COURCHEVEL Fairy lights loop through the trees to blink out a warm welcome at Courchevel, one of France’s most luxurious ski resorts. Located in the world’s largest ski area, Les Trois Vallées, this cosmopolitan playground opened in 1946 and still spoils skiers with all kinds of terrain, from lush forests to breathtaking summits. At the resort’s French Ski School, more than 1,000 inspiring instructors offer family-friendly lessons with flexible start times. Many of these ski coaches have family ties to the area, giving the high-end resort a warm, personal feel. Skitouring guides introduce beginners to off-piste skiing and show experts the most peaceful slopes. Happily, Courchevel is making tremendous strides in providing accessibility – the Children’s Village has dedicated spaces for littlies, and the new Handiski area accommodates travellers with reduced mobility. Ski-free diversions abound, from the tranquillity and panoramic views of a solo hike or snowshoeing session to the romance of eating chocolate fondue in an igloo. Want an even bigger thrill than flying down the mountain? Soar like a bird: learn how to skydive from a helicopter, or try your hand at hang-gliding or

Above: Atout France staffers, Apolline and Noemie, sampling French Alpine speciality, raclette.

paragliding. After the action, boost your wellbeing in the eco-friendly heated swimming pools of the futuristic Aquamotion centre. Courchevel is also home to a great deal of art and cultural events, not to mention exceptional eateries. A notable drawcard is the annual exhibition of contemporary sculptures, many of which are monumental animals, and spring brings the Ski et Toiles film festival to town. Catering to guests’ après-ski appetites are more than 110 restaurants, eight of which are Michelin starred – an astounding number for one small area. One restaurant boasts three stars, four have two stars and three have a onestar rating. Further Information Courchevel Tourisme www.courchevel.com MAGAZINE

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VAL D’ISERE Val d’Isère is the quintessential Alpine backdrop for your French ski experience. As a bonus, its 300 kilometres of groomed pistes are open from late November to early May, a slightly longer season than you’ll find elsewhere, and snow cover is superb throughout. Up for a challenge? Try conquering La Face de Bellevarde, the legendary black run. Still learning the ropes on the slopes? Head for Solaise, where a state-of-the-art highspeed gondola lifts you 2,560 metres to a new beginner-friendly high-altitude area. The village of Val d’Isère is an idyllic setting for a post-ski pit stop. Wander among the traditional wooden chalets, stone farmhouses and baroque church; browse the quaint shops’ selection of fine art and designer fashion; and sample local cheese and wine. Speaking of Savoyard delicacies, you can indulge in everything from cured hams to delectable cakes at any of the town’s restaurants, 110

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whether your budget requires a reasonably priced plat du jour or stretches to a Michelinstarred meal. For an immersive gastronomic experience, tour the nearby farm for an up-close look at cheesemaking before indulging in a fondue Savoyarde. Alternatively, sign up for a French-pastry class with acclaimed patissier Patrick Chevallot. Special events enliven Val d’Isère all year round. Christmas is an especially magical time, as village visitors delight in a wealth of kidfriendly entertainment and an exhibition of giant snow sculptures. In spring, the resort plays host to film, yoga and classical-music festivals, and even the summer months keep the town buzzing with old-fashioned fairs and a traditional craft market. Further Information Val d’Isere Tourisme www.valdisere.com

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Right: Freedom on skis at the high-altitude resort of Val Thorens (photo © C Cattin/OT Val Thorens); below: après-ski afternoon tea (photo © P Tournaire/OT Val Thorens).

VAL THORENS Thrills and chills abound at Val Thorens, the highest ski resort in Europe at 2,300 metres altitude. Its remarkable elevation ensures ample snow coverage, from the first to the last day of the season. But these lofty achievements aren’t the only way this resort breaks records – last year Val Thorens won the World Ski Awards title of world’s best ski resort for the third time. One of the resort’s greatest draws is its 1,300-metre zip wire, the highest in the world. There are ample ways to enjoy the mountain scenery, with and without skis. Evening ski tours end with mulled wine and French onion soup at Chalet de la Marine. Snowshoeing, toboggan rides, outdoor yoga, dog-sledding, and ice circuit go-karts round out the excursion menu. Accommodation choices vary enormously, from five-star chalets to cosy residences, all conducive to delicious après-ski options. Front and centre among these is the Sports Centre and Aqua-Spa, a covered space of 7,500 square metres. The pool is family friendly, but the spa is reserved for patrons aged 16 and over, affording guests complete relaxation in the saunas, jacuzzis and balneotherapy pool. This foodie-friendly resort has more than 60 restaurants plating up perfect meals, from ‘doorstep-skiing’ chalets sitting right on the slopes to boutique cheese and charcuterie shops. For a sunset snack, enjoy a piping hot chocolate from the terrace of a teahouse, or save room for dinner and fill up on gastronomic delights at a Michelin-starred restaurant. Families may want to time a visit for the end of the season. In late April, the resort celebrates Apotheose Days, a kid-friendly au revoir to winter. Kids and adults alike can enjoy snow-golfing, Segway riding, face-painting, board games, acrobatic displays and live music. Further Information Office de Tourisme de Val Thorens www.valthorens.com

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MEGÈVE For sheer romance, you can’t beat the picturesque Megève resort in the heart of the Mont Blanc massif – and the free ride in a horsedrawn sleigh proves it! In this Alpine jewel, every summit rewards you with panoramic views of Mont Blanc, and the diverse slopes deliver days of world-class skiing. Choose from routes that cover 400 kilometres and cater to every skill level, from the beginners’ green-circle bunny slopes to the experts’ black-diamond pistes. The resort also offers roughly 45 kilometres of well-maintained cross-country trails on site. Prestigious events are a hallmark of winter in Megève, and include lighting of the Christmas tree, snow polo, winter golf, skiing world cups and an international jazz music festival. Though it has developed a great deal over the centuries, the heart and soul of Megève is its original village, a bastion of Alpine heritage. A cosy sense of community envelops this cluster of chalets, whether you’re taking a spiritual walk

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along Calvary Way or watching the Christmas tree light up the medieval main square. Spend a day exploring the town’s narrow streets, historic stone houses and baroque chapels. This region’s agricultural roots go deep, making Megève more than capable of providing guests with a gourmet farm-to-table experience. The town boasts six Michelin stars, at restaurants Flocons de Sel, Le 1920 and La Table de l’Alpaga. Of course, every restaurant here has its own take on traditional Savoyard cuisine. For post-ski pampering, unwind in the Turkish bath at Le Palais, or simply curl up in front of a lodge’s open fireplace with a mug of mulled wine. After the sun goes down, there are a number of bars, discos, cabarets, and a casino ready to turn up the volume for an unforgettable night on the town. Further Information Megève www.megeve.com

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From top: Romantic midwinter mood in Chamonix; the dizzying Step Into the Void lookout on Aiguille du Midi in Chamonix; aerial view of Aiguille du Midi (top and bottom photos © Chamonix Tourism; centre photo © Mont Blanc Natural Resort).

CHAMONIX Located at the foot of the fabulous MontBlanc lies Chamonix Valley, easily accessible and known for its dramatic peaks and glaciers. The valley is just one hour from Geneva international airport, and is one of the few French resorts to have its own train station. Chamonix offers an exceptional variety of descents for advanced skiers, such as the Vallée Blanche or Grands Montets, but also caters admirably for beginners and intermediates. Ninety per cent of its slopes have an altitude of more than 2,000 metres, ensuring snow cover from early through late in the season. Together with Megève, Chamonix is a premium destination and a mainstay of MontBlanc Natural Resort, operated by Compagnie du Mont-Blanc. The company’s Mont-Blanc Unlimited lift pass grants access to a total of 10 ski areas (or around 1,000 kilometres of pistes). Choose from Chamonix, Les HouchesSaint Gervais, Megève and Evasion Mont Blanc in France, along with adjoining ski runs in Italy and Switzerland. Guests also get access to sights such as the 3,842-metre Aiguille du Midi peak, now topped with the vertiginous Step Into the Void glass lookout, or the historic Montenvers-Mer de Glace cog railway and its blue-walled ice grotto. You don’t have to be a sports fanatic to enjoy Chamonix, which oozes 250 years of Alpine history and charm at every turn. Watch the scene from its sunny street cafés, experience local Savoyard cuisine at the many fine dining spots, and enjoy the prestige shopping and yearround entertainments. Free trains and buses throughout the valley make it easy to access the slopes, or to go backcountry and explore its many forest trail walks, along with the many enchanting hamlets and villages throughout the area. Further Information www.chamonix.com www.montblancnaturalresort.com MAGAZINE

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Above left: Golf with a view at Ilbarritz (photo © Claude Rodriguez); right: left-hand breaks at France’s most famous surf beach, La Cote des Basques (photo © CDT64).

Biarritz

Fairway to HEAVEN

THE COASTAL RESORT OF BIARRITZ HAS LONG BEEN A GLAMOROUS SEASIDE GETAWAY, AND GOLF REMAINS ONE OF THE ENDURING ATTRACTIONS TUCKED IN AMONG ITS DRAMATIC VISTAS. BY SUSAN GOUGH-HENLY.

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genteel and old-fashioned city in France’s south-west, Biarritz is as well known for its wild surf breaks along La Côte des Basques as for its bustling traditional towns. Go 20 minutes from the coast and you’ll reach lush, green hinterland. Stretching from the ocean to the Pyrénées mountains, this area is home to more than 10 golf courses within a 20-kilometre radius, and 16 courses are within an hour’s drive of Biarritz itself. The diverse terrain enhances the golfing experience: links courses curve alongside the ocean; American-style courses, with plenty of bunkers and lakes, spread throughout the

hinterland; and challenging, hilly courses sit in the foothills of the mountains. All of these sites not only benefit from the mild climate, but also lie close to quaint villages or thriving, characterful towns that offer excellent accommodation and superb cuisine. You can choose from greens and fairways that sit right in the city or nestle under pine trees, featuring views across the sea or mountains. You’re sure to find an option to suit your interests, fitness and skill level, from gently rolling to highly technical courses, many of which are historic or even downright rustic.

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BIARRITZ DESTINATION GOLF PASS Newly introduced in 2016, the Biarritz Destination Golf Pass allows visitors to play any two to eight courses in the whole region at very attractive prices. It includes the fine golf courses introduced here and close to 20 others. Book online and you’ll receive confirmation within 48 hours. www.biarritzdestination-golf.com

OUR SELECTION: 6 ICONIC BIARRITZ COURSES 1. The par-69 Pau Golf Club (www.paugolfclub. com/en) sits in the foothills of the Pyrénées and was built in 1856, making it the oldest golf club in mainland Europe. The Victorian clubhouse exudes a very British old-world atmosphere that both befits the club’s founders and delights its current patrons. 2. The par-69 Golf de Biarritz le Phare (www. golfbiarritz.com/en) was built in 1888 and lies in the centre of Biarritz. Providing stunning views across the Atlantic coastline, Le Phare has 70 bunkers and very fast greens, making for a technically difficult course. 3. The Ilbarritz International Training Center and Golf Course (www.golfilbarritz.com/en/ golf/the-center) opened on the centenary of the inception of Golf de Biarritz le Phare, its

parent institution. It offers individual lessons and intensive two-day to week-long programs that cover a range of skills. You can focus on your short game, full swing or putting, and on the best approach to flat or hilly lies. Novices can then put their new skills to the test on the beautiful oceanside par-32, ninehole course. Ilbarritz also has a golf workshop where experts restore and modify equipment, and you can buy made-to-measure clubs to suit your swing and physique. 4. Golf d’Hossegor (www.golfhossegor.com) was built in 1930. Spread across sandy soils in the middle of a forest, where pine trees and cork oaks provide protection from the wind, Hossegor is one of the world’s top 1,000 golf courses, according to the Rolex guide.

5. The par-72 Golf d’Arcangues (www. o p e n go l fc l u b. c o m /e n /go l f s / f i c h e / 7 / Golf-dArcangues/53/Presentation) sits on 80 hectares of oak trees and meadows surrounding Château d’Arcangues and provides gorgeous views of the Basque countryside and the Pyrénées. The clubhouse is a restored 16th-century farmhouse that features a classic English bar, an open fireplace (in winter), a restaurant with magnificent oak beams, and a terrace that overlooks the course. 6. The par-72 Makila Golf Club de Bayonne– Bassussarry (www.makilagolfclub.com) is a long, American-style course of wide, rolling fairways. Nestled in a forest of ancient oaks, it offers impressive views of the Pyrénées.

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Corsica True GRIT

CORSICA IS AS COMPELLING AS IT IS UNIQUE, WITH ITS DISTINCTLY MEDITERRANIAN FLAIR AND STUNNING SCENERY. THE ANNUAL TOUR DE CORSE BRINGS MOTORING ENTHUSIASTS HERE TOO.

istorically famous as Napoleon’s birthplace, this French island exudes appeal and is now one of France’s most popular summer vacation spots. Turquoise water laps against pristine white sand and also against sheer, layered cliffs. Brightly coloured towns nestle among foliage so lush it would put many jungles to shame. The rugged Les Calanche peaks stand in dramatic contrast to the gently sloped, shimmering beaches. Amid such variety, it makes perfect sense that an island renowned for its resorts is also home to an annual motor rally. The Tour of Corsica, or Tour de Corse, twists its way through the island’s scenery, with activities largely centred in cities such as Ajaccio and Porto-Vecchio. Particularly suspenseful during this ‘rally of 10,000 corners’

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are stretches in which the narrow road squeezes up against the rock face on one side and drops into the sea on the other. The rally is both familiar and excitingly new. The island was home to France’s World Rally Championship course from its first year in 1973 through 2009, then lost out to the mainland. The rally moved back to Corsica in 2015, giving the traditional event a vibrant freshness. It’s worth staying after the rally to experience more of Corsica’s culture. The Corsican language can still be heard throughout the island, its melody evocative of the closely related Italian. Chestnuts feature prominently in the cuisine – which includes everything from chest-nut polenta to chestnut beer – and even contribute to the unique flavour of Corsican

charcuterie. And with Corsica Natural Park covering nearly half of the island, there are plenty of hiking options for burning off all the kilojoules from the incredible food.

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Objets d’art

NOT TRAVELLING TO FRANCE THIS YEAR? EXPERIENCE GALLIC STYLE ANYWAY, WITH THESE SENSATIONAL BUYS AVAILABLE IN AUSTRALIA.

Sweet

Wear

Sip

Caramels de Normandie are the gold of French confectionery. Made of the finest salted butter and cream from Isigny-sur-Mer, these rich gourmet caramels have been winning hearts and tickling taste buds since 1932. And with salted caramels being the flavour du jour, these delicious treats are an ideal gift for a friend or yourself. www.francegourmet.com.au

After more than 80 years, the L.12.12 polo shirt still boasts the same remarkable quality, much to the delight of loyal Lacoste fans. René Lacoste himself designed the classic polo, which is now available in more than 90 variations, each sporting the brand’s signature embroidered crocodile. Timeless, chic and comfortable, this wardrobe essential is available online and at Lacoste boutiques everywhere. lacoste.com.au

Best known for its excellence in coffee, Vittoria is just as discerning about the wine it imports – and Château Montaud rosé is no exception. Predominantly fruity with notes of dried cherry and hints of white pepper, this dry rosé is the perfect accompaniment to light pasta dishes or a traditional Provençal bouillabaisse. www.vittoriafandb.com.au

Caramels de Normandie

Original Lacoste

Chateau Montaud rosé

Louboutin’s Shoepeaks takes cues from the dreamy sequences of Twin Peaks.

Flaunt

Shoepeaks by Louboutin

Look for Caramels de Normandie in these nostalgic tins. Lacoste’s crocodile logo has become an emblem for style and quality.

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Christian Louboutin’s spring/ summer 2017 collection unveils the designer’s most avant-garde creation to date, the ShoePeaks clutch. Taking inspiration from cult ’90s TV series Twin Peaks, this sculptural minaudière appears to meld two So Kate stilettos, complete with the distinctive Louboutin red soles. Part art and part fashion, the ShoePeaks clutch is available in gold finish or black lacquer. asia.christianlouboutin. com/au_en

Vittoria’s first French wine import, the Chateau Montaud rosé.

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The clever design gives Mumm’s traditional red sash a fresh, sporty feel.

Cherish

Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Blanc de Blanc 2004 When top champagne houses strive to outdo each other with head-turning limited editions, the rivalry produces some eye-popping bottles. To celebrate Maison Perrier-Jouët’s art-nouveau heritage and modern vision, Japanese glass artist Ritsue Mishima has created a particularly impressive design. Her bottle case for Belle Epoque highlights the pale golden champagne with transparent organic swirls that mimic Murano glass. www. perrier-jouet.com

Pop

Mumm Grand Cordon

Decant

Escargot by Riedel Riedel’s Escargot decanter breathes new life into your favourite wines. Handcrafted in lead crystal, its unique shape enables double aeration to remove sediment and enhance flavour. A minimalist take on its namesake, the Escargot decanter is also a stunning centrepiece for the dining table, making it both functional and delightful. www.riedel.com

Riedel’s Escargot decanter, designed for double aeration.

Designer Ross Lovegrove shakes up the iconic Mumm Grand Cordon champagne with a daring makeover. In a first for the house, the bottle is free of an affixed label, and Mumm’s famous red sash now indents the glass to resemble a real ribbon. Champagne lovers will appreciate the bottle’s neck, because its shape and length concentrate the cuvée’s Pinotnoir-like bouquet. www.mumm. com/en-au/homepage

Purify

Ullo by Vintec The perfect tool for oenophiles, the Üllo wine purifier restores vintages to their natural state. Using patented Selective Sulfite Capture technology and an adjustable aerator, the Üllo removes sediment and sulphites, which can cause headaches in some people. To taste a wine’s real notes, simply place the Üllo onto the rim of any glass and pour your drink through it. Available through Vintec Club. www.vintecclub.com/shop

Simply fit over any wine glass, and pour wine through the Ullo to remove impurities.

Perrier-Jouët’s striking modern twist on Art Nouveau style. MAGAZINE

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Cycle France at your pace, with all the details looked after by Utracks.

Cycle

Ride your way Take the guesswork out of your next French escape with UTracks cycling tours. Offering routes that showcase France at its very best, from the riverscapes of the Dordogne to the iconic vineyards of Burgundy, UTracks lets you ride independently, calling on its knowhow and support when necessary. Choose from guided group tours, on which you’ll meet like-minded travellers, or from flexible selfguided trips. Electric bikes are available on most routes. www.UTracks.com

Remembrance Forever heroes

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to the public by Anzac Day 2018. A partially sunken structure beneath a floating ‘field’, the centre will deliver a multimedia remembrance experience. Here, cutting-edge technology, archival film footage and countless artefacts will tell wartime stories of bravery and hardship. Visitors from across the globe will be the first to view more than 1,200 war relics, and to gain a true appreciation for the Australian troops’ experience on the Western Front. www.dva.gov. au/sjmc

Commanderie High society

Its members’ robes, medallions and other regal accoutrements make the Commanderie de Bordeaux look like an obscure branch of French royalty. In reality, its representatives make up one of the world’s most exclusive wine societies. Ever since its 1952 inception, the Commanderie has

regularly hosted wine tastings, dinners and receptions, all in the name of preserving the prestige of Bordeaux wines. Thanks to the growth of the Sydney chapter, a Melbourne-based Commanderie will launch this year. If you fancy yourself a true oenophile and wish to know more, visit www.vintecclub.com.

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Connecting your World.

Sydney Melbourne Brisbane

Auckland

Tahiti

Los Angeles

Paris

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Tahiti This island LIFE THE REMOTE AND IMPOSSIBLY BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS OF TAHITI OFFER ACTIVE PURSUITS FOR TRAVELLERS OF ALL INTERESTS AND ABILITIES, ALWAYS WITH A GENEROUS DOSE OF CULTURE, RELAXATION AND STYLE. BY LIZZIE DAVEY

iercing blue skies overlook a swathe of green patchwork scenery in the idyllic Islands of Tahiti. A short trip from Australia’s east coast, the main French Polynesian island waits with open arms and a to-do list boasting cultural highlights and active adventures, all of which are set against a historic heart.

Tahiti’s capital, Papeete, promises the hustle and bustle of an island harbour, while the surrounding scenery brings together a combination of ancient volcanoes, pastel-blue lagoons, and reefs rich in colourful marine life. Each of these settings is perfect for a range of leisure sports, from golfing and paddleboarding to hiking, snorkelling, and sailing.

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STAYING ON THE SOCIETY ISLANDS The sprawl of greenery in the Islands of Tahiti would seem to be perfect for golfing. On the main island and the pretty neighbouring island of Moorea, golf remains a popular activity for both pros and beginners. On Tahiti, you can tee off on the International Golf Olivier Breaud course, a former cotton plantation that was renovated into a stunning golfing green back in the 1970s. Hop over a short stretch of sea to Moorea, and you can test out your swing on the Moorea Green Pearl course in the charming village of Temae. This 18-hole course was designed by famous American golfer, Jack Nicklaus, and is surrounded by jaw-dropping scenery. Off the coast of Tahiti Island, you can make a splash with a range of water sports. Stand up paddleboarding has become a huge hit in recent years, but you can also try your hand at surfing and kiteboarding against a backdrop of blue scenes and shallow waters. 124

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Snorkelling off the private bungalows at Moorea Pearl Beach Resort (photo ÂŠ Tahiti Tourisme).

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Further inland, the hiking opportunities are seemingly endless. Both locals and tourists take to the trails and tracks every day to dig deeper into the ancient charm of the island’s scenery. Find your way to breathtaking lookout points, weave through majestic valleys, and rest in the shade of the local mape trees. Keep your eyes peeled for the mysterious marae (the island’s religious relics) as you go. For an all-encompassing adventure, take a tour of the island starting at Papenoo Valley. Here, you can marvel at the fascinating archaeological sites and waterfalls, before moving down through the Maroto Tunnel and onto the famous volcanic Lake Vaihiria. Lunch at Le Belvedere Restaurant while overlooking the neighbouring Fautaua Valley, and cross the Taravao Plateau for incredible views. Finish up by climbing Mount Aorai and exploring the Hitiaa lava tubes for a thrilling way to soak up the incredible natural beauty of the island.

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Below: Hiking on the Islands of Tahiti rewards with magnificent scenery at every turn, such as this Society Islands peak (photo © P Bacchet).

ACTIVITIES FURTHER AFIELD The shallow lagoons surrounding the Islands of Tahiti are peppered with smaller, more remote islands that offer their own adventures for you to enjoy. Like Tahiti and Moorea, these specks of paradise boast velvet-green canopies, centuries-old volcanic landscapes, and deep valleys filled with criss-crossing trails and an abundance of wildlife. Further afield in the remote Marquesas Islands, there is an endless supply of hiking routes that wind over mountains and descend into dense valleys, exposing walkers to stunning sea views and pristine coastline along the way. Step back in time on Nuku Hiva, the largest of the Marquesas islands, and explore the Jurassic landscape. At the heart of this far-flung island, imaginations are free to run wild at the Grand Canyon, a deep groove that carves its way through the sheer cliff faces. Catch a break by shopping for Marquesan arts and crafts in Taiohoe, where you can

browse stalls piled high with volcanic rocks, animal bones, and sandalwood that has been carved into intricate artworks, before heading on to Vaipo Waterfall for a refreshing view. Also in the Marquesas, you’ll find Hiva Oa, another remote island beckoning with lush adventures. Again, hiking will place walkers faceto-face with pass valleys dotted with livestock, and soaring volcanic peaks that jut out over the ocean. Take a hike around pretty Hanatekuua Bay, starting at Hanaiapa Village and moving along the Hanahaoe Pass, remembering to stop and soak up the panoramic landscapes that greet you at the top of every peak. For the water lovers out there, these remote islands promise ample opportunity to get to know the underwater world. Scuba diving and snorkelling provide the perfect way to learn more about the diverse ecosystem that embodies the island group, while sailing and surfing offer coastal views from a different perspective.

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Top: Kelly Slater surfs the infamous break at Teahupo’o (photo © Sean Scott); below: forested peaks at Moorea (photo © Chris McKenna).

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EVENTS TO BOOKMARK This year, the Islands of Tahiti are playing host to a number of world-famous sporting events. The stunning green scenery and the peaceful waters will host a range of championships, including running races and surfing extravaganzas.

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Moorea Marathon – every March, keen runners take on the tropical weather to run the Moorea Marathon. During the day, three events take place on the island: a full 42-kilometre marathon, a 21-kilometre half marathon, and a 5-kilometre colour run. Each one brings participants and onlookers incredible views of the impressive mountain scenery. mooreamarathon.com Surfing championships – while the marathon takes place on land, a smattering of surf championships hit the shores of the Islands of Tahiti this year. Arguably the most gripping of these is the Billabong Pro at the infamous Teahupo’o break in Taiarapu, Tahiti. Here, a distinctively formed reef sets the conditions for one of the world’s most recognisable, powerful and precarious barrels. www.worldsurfleague.com Va’a – the Polynesian tradition of racing outrigger canoes, known as va’a, will gain international audiences when Tahiti hosts the inaugural Va’a world championships in June 2017. A sprint edition follows in July 2018. www.ivfiv.org Paddleboarding – in June, the Stand Up Paddle Surfing World Tour Leg comes to the islands, seeing big names of the stand-up world competing over a week to win a hefty sum of prize money. www.surf.pf

Further Information Tahiti Tourisme www.tahiti-tourisme.com.au Air Tahiti Nui www.airtahitinui.com.au 126

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Get lost and be found For the traveler in pursuit of an extraordinary all-inclusive luxury experience, we introduce The Brando. A culturally authentic getaway and world-class example of biodiversity and sustainable hospitality on Tetiaroa, a South Pacific island renewal.

reservation@thebrando.com

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New Caledonia

Postcard from PARADISE Above: Traditional outrigger boat in Ile des Pins (photo © Travel Me Happy); below: lobster paired with tropical produce. Opposite: Kanak totem (both photos © Ethnotrack/NCTPS).

A PICTURESQUE BLEND OF CULTURES, NEW CALEDONIA OFFERS ACTIVE TRAVELLERS A SATISFYING MIX OF GOLF, GASTRONOMY AND GALLIC SAVOIR FAIRE, AMONG OTHER TROPICAL TREATS.

ew Caledonia is one of those magical destinations that a picture postcard simply can’t capture. Sure, the swaying palms, pristine white sands and bluer-than-blue skies account for much of this gorgeous island’s appeal, but you’d need to see dozens more postcards to fully appreciate its diversity. Spanning roughly 18,000 square kilometres, the New Caledonian archipelago harbours the world’s largest lagoon, along with numerous other natural wonders. Rugged open plains stretch along the mainland’s west coast while dense tropical foliage and tumbling waterfalls cover its east. On top of all that, you’re sure to savour the vibrant island culture. In New Caledonia, the warm smiles, traditional crafts and colourful festivals of the indigenous Kanak people merge seamlessly with the style and savvy of the nation’s newer French residents, not to mention the French Riviera feel of its capital, Nouméa.

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A TASTE OF THE TROPICS This is a place where people cycle home with a baguette in the bike basket, where supermarkets stock champagne and pâté, and where restaurants serve up tropical foods with a decidedly French flavour. Expect to discover dishes such as gratin of mangrove crab, and croquettes of mango, cassava and poingo bananas (plantains). In Nouméa, Au P’tit Café, So Food and L’Ed Zen are famous for their tropical French fare, while the luxe resorts – Le Méridien Nouméa, Le Méridien Ile des Pins and Sheraton New Caledonia Deva Resort & Spa – offer up-market buffets that take those dishes to extravagant heights in stylish surrounds. Be sure to sample the local speciality, bougna, a stew made from a protein-rich food (usually fish, but sometimes meat) and sweet potatoes, ignames (yams) and poingo bananas. Wrapped in banana leaves and infused with coconut milk, this fragrant feast cooks for several hours over a hot stone Kanak ‘oven’.

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THE EVENTS OF THE SEASONS New Caledonia has a busy social calendar, so you’re always likely to catch an event and gain some insight into the local culture. Check the tourism website (www.newcaledonia.travel) for the complete listing, which includes these highlights for 2017 and 2018: JUNE – World Music Day, Nouméa JULY – International Regatta, Nouméa SEPTEMBER – Underwater Photo & Film Festival, Le Méridien Ile des Pins OCTOBER – International Documentary Film Festival; Poindimié, North Province NOVEMBER – Oil Drum Regatta; Anse Vata, Nouméa

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A PIECE OF THE ACTION The only tricky part of planning a visit to New Caledonia is deciding just which of the many outdoor activities you’re going to dive into. It’s best to plan your holiday around these choices, especially if you’re staying for less than five days, because you’ll need to factor in some extra travel. Need a few ideas? On the Isle of Pines, sail across Upi Bay in a traditional outrigger, past massive greenery-fringed rocks that soar above the water. Stroll through the cool, green forest and stop to admire the transparent waters of Oro Bay. Sail farther afield to Ouvéa Island, where you can swim with turtles or visit the shark nursery. Other magical isles include Lifou, where you’ll ramble through vanilla farms, and Maré, which is famous for its laid-back traditional lifestyle. Back on the main island, Grand Terre, head for the rugged north-west to experience the broussard, or bushman, lifestyle at farm stays or rodeo festivals, and to hike or cycle through the Giant Fern Park of Farino.

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LE PETIT GETAWAY: THREE DAYS IN NOUMÉA New Caledonia is a barely three-hour flight from Australia’s east coast, making the island ideal for a brief escape at any time of year. If you’re visiting for just three days, base yourself in the capital, Nouméa, for an easy immersion in island life. DAY ONE – Plan to arrive at Nouméa’s Tontouta International Airport in the morning and settle into your hotel room. In the afternoon, head out to take in the vibe of the beaches that flank the city. Both Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons offer plenty of opportunities to swim, snorkel or enjoy more-active water sports, and the entire waterfront brims with tropical French Opposite page: Kanak children prepare for a performance (photo © O Strewe/ NCTPS); kiteboarding on the west coast near Bourail (photo © World Kiteboarding League).

Above: Golf course and exclusive accommodation at the Sheraton New Caledonia Deva Resort & Spa in Bourail (photo © Ethnotrack/NCTPS).

dining spots. DAY TWO – Start your day at the Port Moselle Market, being sure to grab a breakfast of espresso and pastries before browsing for crafts and other souvenirs. Today’s big-ticket item is a day cruise to Amédée Island, right across New Caledonia’s world-famous lagoon. Good tour operators will transfer you to a glassbottom boat – you’ll want to admire the

AN ACE IN THE HOLE New Caledonia’s stunning vistas combine with year-round balmy weather to make the mainland a golfer’s paradise. Grand Terre has four 18-hole courses, each of which comes with its own challenges. Happily, they also offer rewards, in the form of tempting options for dining, shopping and accommodation. At the Sheraton New Caledonia Deva Resort & Spa in Bourail, beginners and experienced golfers alike can navigate generous fairways, narrow semi-roughs and some 117 sand traps (which call for a little extra thought!). Players have likened this prestigious, well-designed course to some of the best in Australia and New Zealand.

On the way back to Nouméa, Golf de la Ouenghi lets you enjoy its bush setting as you stroll through the course’s undulating valleys. Lying just outside Nouméa, the Dumbéa course features a particularly complex par 5: it’s 560 metres long and includes a dog-leg hole, a small lake and a river to cross. At nearby Golf de Tina, you’ll be competing with a brisk east wind on most afternoons. Tina also plays host to the PGA South Pacific Open Championship every September, so the course draws big-name golfers from the entire region. Further Information New Caledonia Tourism www.newcaledonia.travel

spectacular marine environment before stopping to swim or snorkel alongside countless multicoloured fish. DAY THREE – Immerse yourself in island culture with a ride on the hop-on/hopoff Nouméa Explorer, which travels to the city’s most captivating sights. Highlights include the magnificent Tjibaou Cultural Centre, the Michel Corbasson Forest Park and Zoo, and the massive climbing wall at Magenta. Even if you’re a seasoned rock climber, the sight of talented daredevils scaling the wall’s colourful facets will amaze you.

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HOLIDAY the French way HOW DO THE FRENCH TAKE THEIR HOLIDAYS? IT’S AN ART FORM INVOLVING A CAREFUL DOSING OF POPULAR PURSUITS AND ELITE PRACTICES, CONCESSIONS TO FASHION AND VINTAGE TRIBUTES, HECTIC SOCIAL ACTIVITY, AND FEIGNED RECLUSION. BY VALÉRIE DE SAINT-PIERRE

1) A LOVE OF POPULAR MERRYMAKING From Bastille Day open-air dances to the Firemen’s Ball, the parade of the Confraternity of the Onion in Trébons, the Bowls Club Friendly Society’s annual bash, and municipal fireworks on the Feast of the Assumption (15 August), attendance at all local junkets, where a warm welcome is guaranteed, is mandatory. The sangria might be rubbish and the band deafening, but at least you can tell everyone back home that you met some “real” people at a truly authentic get-together!

2) DARE TO SWIM IN PINK Pink is the new trendy colour for men’s swimwear (and of course it is absolutely not for women – that would be too easy!). The Pink Cambridge and Oxford models by brand robinsonlesbains.com have the perfect retro proportions and are exactly the right colour – bright and virile like the Stade Français rugby shirt!

4) FANTASISE ABOUT A MIDNIGHT DIP Much discussed at the end of an already bibulous evening, you will thrill to memories of the unnaturally balmy night air, the intoxicating beauty of the waves silvered by a full moon, and the exquisitely cool water. But you never actually do it, as everyone knows that the mosquitoes also love to skinny dip at midnight.

3) SUN, SEA, SAND AND FRUIT

5) NEVER SERVE GUESTS A TOMATO AND MOZZARELLA SALAD

Those plastic mini-bottles of Evian? So “last year in Croydon”! Be savvy, throw a few slices of grapefruit and lemon with some mint leaves into the bottle filter to create your own detox water! The Citrus Zinger and the Laptone are the coolest of the gang, and you don’t need to fess up that you bought it on Amazon.

What? Dish up a Caprese salad, like the ones served by the hundredweight in even the lowliest beach cafés? No way. There are so many variations to try. What’s wrong with figs and mozzarella, strawberries and mozzarella, nectarine and mozzarella? It’s the wow factor that counts.

6) BRAG ABOUT THE MARKETS Armed with artisanal baskets, broad-brimmed sun hats, espadrilles and linen shirts, get your vintage pinnies or cute little bracelets so that you can boast: “I got it for €10 at such a lovely little stall!” Even if everything else you’re wearing is major luxury brands.

7) WATCH CULT MOVIES WITH THE FAMILY Nothing like the lacinetek.com and lecinemaclub.com websites to get you hooked on home cinema while you’re away from home. Which doesn’t stop any self-respecting French family from indulging in the inescapable annual repeat showing of Le Gendarme de SaintTropez, a legendary turkey but an essential ingredient of any successful French holiday.

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Above: Jumpsuits and more from the Carolina Ritzler Spring/Summer 2017 collection (photo © Carolina Ritzler). Below: Shopping at Nice’s Cours Saleya markets (photo © OTC Nice).

8) COME OUT TO PLAY IN A JUMPSUIT The plain black or printed silk jumpsuit is the latest variation on the LBD. The most spectacular (backless, in silk or even – wait for it – python) are designed by Carolina Ritzler, who devotes her entire life to them (www. carolinaritzler.com). There’s also a very pretty midnight blue model that looks tremendous on a glowing tan, at brand-new label Fête Impériale (www.feteimperiale.fr).

9) DEMAND A COLD-PRESS JUICE EXTRACTOR No Olympic swimming pool in the garden or sauna in the basement of your holiday rental? You can live with that. But two weeks without a slow-juicer (no kale-fennel-ginger smoothies…). Never!

10) CARRY A SMALL “CROSS CLUTCH” In the evening, forget the clutch you have to squeeze under your arm so that you can hold a drink in one hand and a nibble in the other. So primitively uncomfortable. And don’t get me started on the dancefloor punch-ups when 134

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you poke it in your neighbour’s eye. Be good to yourself by sporting the same format carried on a little chain worn across the body. Life is suddenly worth living again. Young Paris brand Mimilamour (www.mimilamour.com) has a range of fluoro cross-clutches with coral branch clasps – as glam as it gets.

11) PUT DOWN A BEACH TOWEL THAT LOOKS LIKE A FOUTA Make sure it’s bigger, more attractive, more graphic, with colours that are incomparably more refined than all those hackneyed sorbet or fluoro colours that have recently been doing the rounds. Those sold by solimane.fr in a range of elegant greys, blacks, or whites with geometric patterns are just the thing.

12) DON’T GO ANYWHERE WITHOUT YOUR LITTLE KONJAC SPONGE Used to remove the residues of all that sunscreen from your skin without being too aggressive and gently exfoliate, this Korean sponge is peerless. And if it contains activated charcoal to boot, you’re at the cutting edge of the “slow” trend (www.Erborian.com, www.sephora.fr).

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13) PRETEND YOU’RE THERE TO “UNWIND”

15) SEARCH FOR THE IDEAL DESERTED COASTLINE

17) BE HYPERACTIVE ON THE BEACH

And that you intend to shun socialising all the better to recharge your batteries. The moral of the story is that in some highly popular places (Île de Ré, Cap Ferret, Southern Corsica, Saint Tropez), there are sometimes two dinner sittings each evening. And as it’s impossible to choose, you get to the first sitting very late (after four aperitifs) and to the second just in time for dessert. You finish off with a drink somewhere where it’s good to be seen, and where there’s dancing after midnight.

You must be ready to travel for miles along a dusty, bumpy dirt road to earn this veritably “gypsetting” privilege. Or be prepared to sail out before dawn and drop anchor in a deserted cove. Obviously, you will not be the only one to have come up with this genius idea. But your last remaining shred of self-respect will stop you from admitting that it would have been just as nice to rent your usual sunbed at the Plage des Graniers. What a wonderful break, getting away from the madding August crowd! No, honestly.

Avoid crashing out on your towel and just dipping a toe in the water before slumping back down. That’s just so last century. Not to mention putting your skin and social status in jeopardy. Run! Swim miles (with flippers)! Paddle elegantly and tirelessly on your paddleboard or in your canoe! Supplement these with a yoga or gym session right there on the beach, go surfing or take up kitesurfing, if that’s available locally, preferably partaking in all these activities within a single day. There’s modern for you!

14) LOUNGE AROUND IN BABOUCHE SLIPPERS

16) PACK AN AUTHENTIC BRETON JERSEY

Of course, you can still get away with last season’s Tropéziennes or Greek sandals. But the go-to summer footwear for 2016 was the traditional North African babouche. All the designers were doing them, and you can even get the real thing with a contemporary vibe at liwanlifestyle.com and muzungusisters.com.

This striped jersey, which has been hijacked a million times by couturiers, is this summer’s chic standby for cooler evenings. It goes with everything (except proper sailor’s kit) and gives you that touch of authentic French cool. It even works with a long skirt. It’s a bit like those legendary Basque espadrilles; keep a black or indigo pair of these in your summer basics, too. But hold the beret!

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Clockwise from right: Graham Wilson, chief marketing and distribution officer, Accorhotels Asia Pacific with Richard Simcock and the Moulin Rouge Dancers; Two young painters and an original Mona Lisa; Atout France team; TV presenter Melissa Doyle with Patricia Barthelemy, International Promotion Manager at Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau, and Sylvie Legars, Press and Events Manager at Paris Region Tourist Board; Christophe Lecourtier, Ambassador of France to Australia, with Michael Issenberg, Chairman and COO Accorhotels Asia Pacific at Accorhotels; Boris Cuzon, chef at Sofitel Sydney Wentworth, preparing the succulent chocolate dessert.

All photos ÂŠ tanyasmithphotography

Highlights: Sensual performances by Moulin Rouge cabaret dancers took the room by storm, along with whimsical acrobatics by The Chicagos. The menu by Boris Cuzon married together the best of French and Australian flavours, from marron tail to foie gras, Milly Hill lamb and the spectacular chocolate dessert.

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All photos ÂŠ tanyasmithphotography

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SOIRÉE Monaco WHAT: A GALA DINNER TO SHOWCASE THE VERY BEST OF MONACO, TRANSFORMING THE BALLROOM IN ROSES AND VELVET WITH THE DEEP REDS SO EMBLEMATIC OF THE PRINCIPALITY. Where: Sofitel On Collins Melbourne Who: Monaco Government Tourist and Convention Authority, Monte-Carlo Societe des Bains de Mer, Air France, China Southern, Sofitel hotels, Accorhotels, Champagne Perrier Jouet, La Maison du Thé, Christian Louboutin, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, GJ Food, Vittoria Coffee, Eres and Giraudi Meats by Rangers Valley.

Clockwise from top: Chef Marcel Ravin, Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel; Eres Show; Django Rhythm Jazz Band. All photos © Monaco Tourism.

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Highlights: A 360 Virtual Reality movie experience, transporting guests all the way to Monaco; and a premium gift bag for each of the 230 guests, featuring Dior and Eres goods. Perrier Jouet champagne and fine wines complemented the elegant dinner, created by Michelin star chef Marcel Ravin from Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel.

Clockwise from top right: Monaco promotional vehicle; Rachel David (Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort) and Suzanne Duzenman (Global International Travel services); Patrick Benhamou (Director Atout France) and Livinia Nixon (Getaway TV); BlancManger Framboises Ă la rose; Perrier Jouet Champagne, chilled to perfection; Andrew Cannon (Honorary Monaco Consul in Melbourne), Alison Roberts-Brown (Regional Director Monaco Government Tourist And Convention Authority) and Guillaume Rose ( Chairman President, Monaco Government Tourist and Convention Authority). All photos ÂŠ Monaco Tourism.

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Dom Perignon WHITE Story WHAT: THE ANNUAL DOM PERIGNON GALA HELD ON 28 OCTOBER TO CELEBRATE DERBY EVE. DRESSED IN WHITE, GUESTS SPENT THE EVENING “DRINKING STARS” – TO QUOTE THE FAMOUS HISTORICAL DESCRIPTION OF DOM PERIGNON CHAMPAGNE. Where: The beautiful home of Fiona and Sidney Myer, Toorak. Who: As a collaboration between Dom Perignon and known philanthropists the Myers, the event brimmed with influential names in the arts, design and business. Among other guests were Bruce and Chyka Keebaugh, co-founder and director of catering and events company The Big Group. Highlights: Apart from the stunning grounds and Myer residence itself, two acrobats and a magician (dressed in white, of course) kept guests regaled with their charming, fluid performances.

Clockwise from top: Acrobats; Magician; Rita Coleiro. All photos by Lucas Dawson Photography.

The Big Group founders, Bruce and Chyka Keebaugh.

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Neapolitan Bonaparte Below: H.E. Mr Christophe Lecourtier presents Les Schirato with the medal; right; Mr Schirato’s resemblance to a certain famous French leader prompted this painting of Neapolitan Bonaparte.

Meriting a passion for FRANCE

WHAT: AUSTRALIA’S ‘COFFEE KING’, LES SCHIRATO, IS AWARDED ONE OF FRANCE’S HIGHEST HONOURS – THE MEDAILLE OF CHEVALIER DANS L’ORDRE NATIONAL DU MÉRITE. Where: The Schirato residence, in a certain leafy, exclusive suburb of Northern Sydney. Who: Over 100 guests including leaders in the French community, media personalities, and His Excellency the French Ambassador to Australia, Christophe Lecourtier. Highlights: A performance of La Marseillaise by the French community, lashings of Mumm champagne and Provence Rosé, and canapes by Guillaume Brahimi made this a night that Schirato and his guests will not soon forget. The French Ambassador sang his praises for Les in a speech that highlighted three of his greatest passions: coffee, charity and of course, France. Sharing a similar sentiment, an unexpected poem read by Schirato’s adoring family showed their admiration for ‘a softy with that charming flair’.

Centre: The Schirato family: Luisa, Gaby, Luisa, Les, Marlo, Rolando, Xavier and William. Below left: Xavier and William carrying the Order of National Merits Medal; right: Monique Ponfoort and Alison Roberts-Brown. Photos by www.alexandermayes photography.com MAGAZINE

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Clockwise from top left: Lion of Lyon, France’s second city and capital of gastronomy; Blandine Thenet and Francois Gaillard, from Only Lyon with Catriona Rowntree; Guy Lassaussaie, one of Lyon’s most famous chefs; and Inge Frassen of Pommery Champagne (photos by Voltaire Carlos).

Soirée LYON

WHAT: A GOURMET SHOWCASING OF LYON, AND A VIRTUAL TOUR OF THE CITY BY SOME OF ITS TOP TOURISM EXPERTS. Where: Establishment, Sydney Who: Along with travel journalist Catriona Rowntree and media personality Sally Obermeder, faces included Blandine Thenet from Only Lyon Tourist Office; Tim Harrowell from Emirates; and eminent figures from sponsors incuding L’Oenotheque Rhone-Alpes, Champagne Pommery, Nespresso, San Pellegrino. Highlights: Conceived as a homage to France’s second city and gastronomic capital, the event included a stunning four-course dinner prepared by two Michelin-star chef, Guy Lassausaie.

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CRUISE FRANCE

IN RELAXED LUXURY ....................

with Avalon Waterways

RIVER CRUISE THROUGH FRANCE AND EXPERIENCE THE RELAXED LUXURY THAT’S UNIQUE TO AVALON. Offering exquisite service that’s professional, friendly and comfortable – never stuffy – our ships become your home away from home. We want your experience with us to be as rich as possible, so have included everything that we know will be important to your cruise enjoyment. We also leave room for your own preferences so you have the freedom to cruise your way!

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VISIT AVALONWATERWAYS.COM.AU OR SEE YOUR LOCAL TRAVEL AGENT

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Livinia Nixon

Things I LOVE ABOUT FRANCE CHANNEL NINE PRESENTER LIVINIA NIXON HAS FILLED HER 17-YEAR-PLUS CAREER WITH NON-STOP PERFORMANCES, INCLUDING A CAMEO IN STRICTLY BALLROOM: THE MUSICAL – BUT SHE’S ALSO MADE TIME TO TRAVEL THE WORLD. HERE, THE ONE-TIME TOMBOY SHARES HER PASSION FOR FRANCE.

Favourite French taste sensations? French food is so fresh, and the quality is incredible. The French really understand the importance of eating natural produce. Bresse chickens are a perfect example: they’re free range and their flavour is unforgettable.

What first made you fall in love with France? Seeing the Eiffel Tower at night. And there have been so many breathtaking moments since.

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Best place to stay in Paris? The W at L’Opéra has amazing front-desk staff and very funky decor, and it’s around the corner from Galeries Lafayette.

Must-watch French sporting event? My husband is an avid cyclist and Tour de France follower. We watch it together – I drool over the scenery while he marvels at the competitors’ stamina.

Your top three destinations in France? Provence, with its delightful cobblestone streets and scenery, which Van Gogh captured; Giverny, Monet’s beloved village; and Lyon, with its wonderful murals and food (the pastries!) and its stylish people.

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Favourite stores for luxe fashion? Saint-Germain, either to shop or just swoon at the windows.

How would you describe your dream trip to France? I’d love to experience life as a local, not just breeze through as a tourist. To live there, speak the language, make French friends and dream in French would be heaven!

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Best Parisian dining experience? I love simply buying a baguette, some soft cheese and a terrine, and picnicking in the Tuileries Garden.

Where do you go for an active break? Tignes is on my list for an incredible skiing experience. Perhaps I can work off some of my soft-cheese meals by skiing at this former Winter Olympics site!

Other active adventures in France? Kayaking in the Ardèche Gorges (in the south of France) and cycling around Paris, which is the perfect antidote to jet lag.

What are you looking forward to in 2017? Publishing the two books I’ve been working on, and visiting France again with my family.

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The Fragrance of Happiness

To discover the fragrance of happiness, visit your nearest LancĂ´me counter to redeem your complimentary trial of La vie est belle.*

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*Offer available at Department Store LancĂ´me counter in Australia. Offer ends 31/07/2017 or while stocks last. Complimentary sample consists of one 1.2ml sample La vie est belle. One sample per customer. Sample not exchangeable or redeemable for cash or kind.