Rendez vous en France 2019 by Rendezvous

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Lifestyle • Gourmet • Accommodation • Heritage & History • Destination • Portrait

Rendez-vous en France 2019

Good France Ducasse IN SEINE dining Lifestyle Châteaux & CHAMPAGNE

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Live the French way Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s character, then thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s French charisma. Book your stay at sofitel.com Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg, France

Experience our world-renowned comfort and service Fly Qantas to Singapore and onto Paris with our codeshare partner Air France

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From the team of Atout France

ach year when we plan France magazine, the conversation soon turns to food and wine. For a story on Bordeaux, it’s all about ‘those oysters; that entrecôte steak with chopped parsley; a perfectly chilled glass of Entre-Deux-Mers white’. Or a piece on Provence, and suddenly everyone’s thinking of ratatouille, grand aioli, pissaladière with olives, and perhaps a crisp local rosé. France is so famous for its cuisine, and the way this is prepared and served, its gastronomy was famously listed by UNESCO on the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010. And French gastronomic culture continues to evolve. This year we’re pleased to introduce the rise of women winemakers in Burgundy, food trucks in Tahiti, and farm-to-table ethical dining everywhere. French-kissed territories such as Tahiti and New Caledonia are in the spotlight,

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REGIONAL DIFFERENCES IN FRENCH FOOD AND WINE ARE AS MEMORABLE AS EVER, BUT WHAT WE’RE PARTICULARLY EXCITED ABOUT IS ALL THE NEW CHANGES THAT MARK THE SCENE.

with Pacific flavours named a trend to watch in 2019. Regardless of what you’re tasting, skyhigh standards remain de rigueur. More French restaurants than ever are featured within hightech restaurant review aggregator, La Liste, which the legendary Guy Savoy has topped for the third year running. The only question left might be: Where to start? We invite you to dive into these pages and plan your own culinary journey through France. Bon voyage and bring… your appetite.

Patrick Benhamou Director Atout France in Australia France Tourism Development Agency patrick.benhamou@atout-france.fr

Patrick Benhamou with Alain Ducasse in the kitchen of the Plaza Athénée, Paris. MAGAZINE

Scenic Sapphire, Avignon

Scenic Enrich, Château de la Rivière, Bordeaux

Salt Therapy Lounge, Scenic Sapphire

Scenic Culinaire

2020 FRANCE RIVER CRUISING Indulge as you cruise the waterways of France, the most romantic country on Earth. The innovative Scenic Space-Ship will be your luxurious floating hotel with unrivalled inclusions and every amenity at your fingertips. Scenic believes that all-inclusive is exactly that. From the windswept beauty of Normandy to the sun-dappled Loire Valley and on to the magnificence of Bordeaux, this beautiful country is something to savour. In the South of France and Bordeaux, on board features include a dedicated cooking school, Scenic Culinaire, and the first Salt Therapy Lounge on Europe’s waterways. Scenic Culinaire offers immersive courses in the culinary wonders of the Rhône, Saône and Bordeaux regions. The custom-designed area features a dedicated cooking station, fresh produce fridges and a live camera and screen so you won’t miss a thing. Complementing the experience, in select ports you can even Shop with a Chef, sourcing fresh French produce at a local market, before heading back to the ship for your class. As you journey through France, beauty is around every river bend and the country’s reverence for art, history and gastronomy make every day a unique and lovely experience.

All-Inclusive Highlights

Scenic Freechoice, Monet’s Gardens

5-star Scenic Space-Ships featuring Scenic Sun Lounges Exclusive Scenic Enrich experiences Your choice of diverse Scenic Freechoice activities Scenic Sundowners events Up to five on board dining options, from casual to fine dining with all on board meals Complimentary top-shelf beverages all day, every day

Personalised in-suite bar restocked daily Butler service for all guests Scenic Tailormade for self-guided touring The freedom of our e-bikes Cruise Director to guide and assist with expert local guides Complimentary Wi-Fi on board All tipping and gratuities

For our latest special offers:

SCENIC.COM.AU/FRANCE 138 128 or visit scenic.com.au/agents for your nearest Scenic Agent

Wine tourism (photo © phlabeguerie).

24 FRANCE.FR DIRECTOR OF PUBLICATIONS Christian Mantei EDITOR Stephanie Oley SUBEDITOR Paula Towers

Chaumont sur Loire (photo © CRT Centre Val de Loire).

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18 Champagne and Loire The royal treatment 24 Bordeaux Wine of the times

| ACCOMMODATION |

72 Terre Blanche A private paradise

26 Nouvelle-Aquitaine Days of wine and roses

28 CroisiEurope River queen

84 Guy Savoy Top of The Liste

32 Antibes Riviera fling

| HERITAGE & HISTORY |

ATOUT FRANCE AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND Atout France Australia and New Zealand France Tourism Development Agency

36 L’Occitane Keeping it real

91 Arras Dawn of a new day

Editorial, Production and Sales Team: Patrick Benhamou, Sophie Almin, Sarah Elfassy, Anais Leloup, Camille Chevallier, Charly Bongiorno, Theo Mangiapan, Marc Humphries.

38 Monaco Of grace and glamour

44 Nice A place in the sun

96 Club Med The mountains are calling

CONTRIBUTORS Paul Arnold, Alix Barnaud, Ruby Boukabou, Sally Hammond, Susan Gough Henley, Jennifer Hudson, Sophie Ibbotson, Michelle Lollo, Jodie Oakes, Christina Stephen, Nicolas Tomasovic, Adrianne Young Cover photograph © Snapper Media Printed in Australia

L5, 25 Bligh Street Sydney NSW 2000 Australia T: +61 2 9231 5243 F:+ 61 2 9221 8682 www.france.fr PUBLISHER Peter Berman

Become our Facebook fan www.facebook.com/AtoutFranceAU Follow us on Twitter twitter.com/AUNZ_FranceFR Watch new content on YouTube www.youtube.com/user/atoutfrance

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52 Beaune Heard it through the grapevine 55 Burgundy This must be the place 63 Alain Ducasse In Seine dining

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98 Chamonix Let it snow 100 New Caledonia Sea to shining sea 104 Tahiti Kissed by the sun

PRESERVE THE THINGS YOU LOVE

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Champagne and the Loire Valley

The ROYAL treatment

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DESTINATION:

REGAL, CLASSICAL AND ALWAYS WITH LIFE’S LUXURIES CLOSE AT HAND.

ush, lovely and brimming with culture, the Loire Valley and Champagne regions enjoy an almost legendary status as a secret garden of French refinement and delight. Or perhaps not so secret. Closely linked by a royal history and a quest for excellence, the regions offer world heritage wonders, art, natural beauty and gastronomic delights. At every turn, there’s an opportunity to eat, sip and marvel. 18

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Your royal journey might start in Reims, the coronation city of France, its cathedral built in 1211 with majestic proportions befitting the grandeur of a coronation. It was here that the young Joan of Arc stood proudly next to the newly crowned Charles VII, having turned the page of French history and rescued France from the English in 1429. Over the years, French kings created magnificent royal residences along the banks of the river, with the Renaissance architectural style growing especially prevalent. These magnificent châteaux were the setting for the endless hunts and glittering feasts of the nobility. The Château of Amboise is particularly famed, partly because of its connection with Leonardo da Vinci. The master painter and inventor was a

guest of King François I here in 1516, and spent the last three years of his life at the nearby manor of Clos Lucé. Today, it serves as a museum of his work (www.vinci-closluce.com). The Loire Valley and Champagne share more than just royal roots. Both are blessed with rich winemaking history, beautiful landscapes, charming villages and friendly cities. Many sights are linked by a network of cycle-friendly routes, or rivers traversed by cruise vessels. Delicious local fare completes the experience, whether you’re up for an impromptu picnic or a Michelinstarred restaurant. The two regions are also linked by a direct TGV connection, taking just two hours either way, making it easy to enjoy the best of both.

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P O R T R A I T Opposite: windmill in the grand cru village of Verzenay (photo © Carmen Moya); wines from the AOC regions of Valencay and Reuilly (photo © AB Photographiste). This page: cycle route opposite Château de Amboise, famous for having once hosted Leonardo da Vinci (photo © CRT Centre Val de Loire).

THE GARDEN OF FRANCE The Loire Valley transports visitors into an enchanting world, where picture-perfect châteaux dot a verdant landscape peppered with medieval villages, Renaissance gardens and the famed Loire Valley vineyards. Little wonder much of this region is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. A wine route stretching 1,000 kilometres introduces visitors to the wonders of this land, from the Atlantic Ocean in the west to Sancerre in the east. Hundreds of châteaux are set amid the vineyards, offering a magical setting to enjoy the local Chinon, Bourgueuil, Vouvray and Sancerre varieties. Notable wine experiences include cellars

crafted from prehistoric quarries, such as Vouvray Wine Cellars, where tastings take place deep underground in 2.5 kilometres of cellars. Les Caves Duhard offers a ‘sensory wine odyssey’ through rugged caves built into hillsides, with windows peeking over the Loire River beyond. Make sure to seek out local specialties complementing the Loire Valley wines: including goat’s milk cheeses, rillettes from Tours, géline chicken from Touraine and tarte tatin, a caramelised apple tart. Their finesse is closely linked with the royal households that would have served them. Wine events abound in the Loire. If you’re visiting in September, join the fun at Vignes Vins

Randos (vvr-valdeloire.fr/en), an entertainment-filled wine-and-food stroll through more than 10 tasty precincts across the Loire, over a three-day weekend. Your travels will also take you through the Loire’s delightful towns. Bustling Tours, the birthplace of Balzac, has a cobblestoned medieval quarter with tiny shops and half-timbered houses. It has a vibrant nightlife, and an easy year-round ambience at the dining spots lining the banks of the Loire. Heading west in the direction of Champagne, the town of Blois is loved for its art-filled Château de Blois and gothic cathedral; while charming Orleans was famously saved from English siege by Joan of Arc in 1429. MAGAZINE

WARATAH WONDERLAND BY HOUSE OF HERAS

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Top: the spectacular gardens of Château de Chambord (photo © CRT Centre Val de Loire); below: tram in downtown Reims, overlooked by the world-famous cathedral (photo © Carmen Moya).

At every turn, the area’s 300-plus famed châteaux await. Majestic or discreet, imposing or elegant, Renaissance or medieval: each one reveals splendid workmanship, and the opportunity to gaze deeply into France’s history. Famous destinations include Chaumont-surLoire, Chenonceau, Chambord, Azay-le-Rideau and the aforementioned Château de Amboise and Château de Blois. Many are linked with iconic historical figures, including François I, Leonardo da Vinci, Joan of Arc and more. In 2019, the Loire Valley celebrates 500 years since the passing of the genius Leonardo da Vinci, who spent his final days in Amboise. More than 700 events are planned throughout the region, including shows, banquets, sound-andlight events, exhibitions and themed artworks (www.vivadavinci2019.fr).

Further Information Loire Valley Tourism www.loirevalley-france.co.uk

FLAVOURS OF REIMS On arriving in Reims, visitors make a beeline for the impressive gothic cathedral where the kings of France were crowned. This regal past is reimagined every evening at nightfall, from May to mid-September, through the interactive sound-and-light show Regalia, projected onto the façade of the world heritage monument. Directly beneath the streets of the city lies a major drawcard for visitors: vast underground chambers, quarried into the chalky earth by the Gallo-Romans, and linked by 200 kilometres of tunnels. Here, in the cool, still, darkness, millions of bottles of champagne are slowly maturing to perfection. Cellar tours, offered by champagne houses including Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger and Mumm, culminate with a tasting of the city’s famous bubbles, ever chilled and fragrant. It’s not hard to find regional delicacies to accompany the local wine. Soft cows’ milk cheeses, such as Chaource and Langres, feature on many of the restaurant menus, melted into creamy sauces and rich gratins alike. Reims ham, cooked in a flavoursome stock and rolled in breadcrumbs, is aromatic and tender. Another local speciality are the Biscuits Roses de Reims: light, vanilla-scented, dusted with sugar and pink in hue. They’re often dipped into champagne – a gorgeous local take on afternoon tea. MAGAZINE

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For more local luxury, head to Domaine Les Crayères. This delightful château, set within serene 7-hectare gardens, serves two-Michelin star cuisine using fine seasonal produce with a creative twist (lescrayeres.com/). From Reims, the Champagne wine route takes you out into the vineyards, past generations-old champagne makers. Many are open to visitors, and offer personalised tours and tastings – look out for the ‘accueil’ (welcome) sign outside. It is recommended to book in advance to ensure someone is there to meet you.

DELIGHTFUL EPERNAY Follow the Champagne Route south to delightful Epernay. Known as the Capital of Champagne, Epernay attracts connoisseurs from around the globe to taste fine champagne at its glittering source. Famous and boutique champagne houses alike stand tall along the prestigious Avenue de Champagne. Like Reims, Epernay sits above a labyrinth of over 100 kilometres of chalk tunnels housing interconnecting cellars and galleries, of which over a quarter belong to the largest, Moët & Chandon (www.moet.com). Nearby is Champagne Boizel, still operated by its founding family, and offering intimate tours and tastings (www.boizel.com). Emerging from the cool cellars, why not take a ride in Epernay’s giant, tethered, helium-filled balloon? From your bird’s-eye perch 150 metres above ground, sit back and relax with a flute of champagne, while gazing across vineyard-laced villages and Belle Epoque mansions. From the châteaux of the Loire Valley to the art de vivre of Champagne, this pocket of paradise not far from Paris offers visitors a mix of history and art, culture and fine living – a sparkling voyage of discovery.

Further Information Grand Est Tourism www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk

Top: Biscuits Roses de Reims biscuits from Maison Fossier (photo © Fossier); view over Epernay from the giant helium balloon (photo © Fresh and Fearless) MAGAZINE

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Bordeaux

Wine of the TIMES

NESTLED JEWEL-LIKE WITHIN THE WORLD’S LARGEST FINE WINE REGION, BORDEAUX

OFFERS

NON-STOP

FEAST OF NOUVELLE FOOD-AND-WINE PAIRINGS. BY SUSAN GOUGH HENLY

ordeaux, the beautiful capital of Nouvelle-Aquitaine in southwest France, is now just two hours from Paris on the new high-speed TGV train. Set on the banks of the River Garonne, Bordeaux is the largest urban World Heritage site in the largest fine wine region on earth. With its riverside parks and Old Quarter filled with outdoor cafés and cosy wine bars, Bordeaux is one of the most popular destinations in France.

FOOD, WINE AND EVENTS Not surprisingly, this old-world wine city is also a renowned foodie destination and French food website Atabula named Bordeaux in 2017 as the best place to eat in France, ahead of Paris and Lyon. Local cuisine might feature oysters from Arcachon Bay, strawberries and truffles from the nearby Dordogne, asparagus from Blaye, milk-fed lamb from Pauillac and much more. Bordeaux is chock-a-block with contemporary bistros like Le Gabriel, where you can enjoy cutting-edge cuisine in sumptuous 18th century dining rooms overlooking the water mirror at the beautiful Place de la Bourse. Or try Miles, where the owner-chefs meld influences from their native Israel, Japan, Vietnam and New Caledonia with their French culinary expertise. Many chefs have apprenticed under Michelin masters, and now channel their culinary skills to create more affordable dining in more casual environments. Bordeaux also has sensational small wine and cocktail bars, such as Symbiose, where the inventive cocktails are as inspired as its cutting-edge cuisine. Nearby Le Petit Pavillon offers interesting wines by the glass or bottle and a small dinner menu, while Madame Pang is renowned for its dim sum and exotic cocktails. A couple of brand-new food halls are linked with the city’s wine scene and creative enterprises. Les Halles de Bacalan, near 24

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Opposite: street scene at Porte Cailhau at the Bordeaux river mouth (photo © Deepix). This page, from top: fresh produce market (photo © Pierre Planchenault); riverside dining and entertainment at the Chez Alriq Guinguette (photo © Nicolas Duffaure); dish from Cent 33 (photo © David Griffen Photography).

AMAZING STAYS Exciting new hotel developments mean there are plenty of exquisite places to stay. The brand-new, five-star Palais Gallien, near Bordeaux’s Roman amphitheatre of the same name, features a heated outdoor pool and roof terrace. Fourstar Radisson Blu Bordeaux, Golden Tulip Bordeaux Euratlantique, Hotel La Zoologie and the Hilton Garden Inn each add their own distinctive style to the city.

La Cité du Vin, and La Boca FoodCourt, near the just-opened Maison de l’Économic Créative et de la Culture (MECA), offer specialty products from local provedores, along with buzzy casual restaurants. Major food festivals on the Bordeaux calendar include Les Epicuriales outdoor food festival in the city centre (25 May-9 June) and the Bordeaux S.O Good gastronomy and lifestyle festival in November.

LUXURY DINING The culinary superstars have also established themselves in Bordeaux, with Michelin three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire setting the tone at hotel La Grande Maison. His head chef Jean-Denis Le Bras delivers sublime dishes worthy of its two Michelin stars. Since château owner and wine merchant Bernard Magrez is the owner, the wine list is encyclopaedic. On the Place de la Comedie, Gordon Ramsay has made his mark at the two Michelin-starred Le Pressoir d’Argent at the Intercontinental Bordeaux – Le Grand Hotel. Television chef Philippe Etchebest has a Michelin star for his chef’s table at Au Quatrieme Mur, beside the Grand Theatre. Chef Tanguy Laviale, named in 2016 as a great chef of tomorrow by Gault Millau, has a Michelin-star for Garopapilles, an informal restaurant which puts seasonal cuisine and fine wines on an equal footing. And, acclaimed Michelin-starred chef Fabien Beaufour opened Le Cent 33 in early 2019.

Further Information Bordeaux www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk MAGAZINE

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NouvelleAquitaine Days of WINE and ROSES A STUNNINGLY DIVERSE NATURAL LANDSCAPE IS THE SETTING FOR NOUVELLE-AQUITAINE,

RIPPLING

WITH FINE FOOD, WINE AND GOOD LIVING. BY SUSAN GOUGH HENLY

he statistics say it all. The Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of South West France features 14 UNESCO World Heritage sites (the largest collection in France), 28 of the Most Beautiful Villages in France, 50 Michelin-starred restaurants, 937 wineries, and 750 kilometres of coastline. Here you’ll find the rolling green hills of the Pyrenees, and some of Europe’s finest ocean beaches. There’s the Dordogne’s ancient river valleys and escarpments, home to prehistoric cave art and 1,001 castles, and the exquisite city of Bordeaux and its eponymous wines. Discover the red-and-green-shuttered Basque Country villages, or the fortified wine region of Cognac. Nouvelle-Aquitaine offers a kaleidoscope of cultural experiences, not to mention amazing cruising, cycling, walking and surfing adventures. Perhaps most important of all, this is home to some of the finest food and wine in France.

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Top: market day in Périgueux in front of the Saint-Front cathedral (photo © Alban Gilbert /CRTA); below: vineyards of Saint-Émilion (photo © OT de Sain-Émilion /CRTA).

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A young shepherd in traditional costume during the Sheep Festival in Pauillac (photo © Laurent Valera).

FEAST OF FLAVOURS Here you can feast on foie gras and black truffles from the Dordogne; oysters from Arcachon Bay and Île d’Oléron; Espelette peppers, Bayonne ham and fresh tuna from the Basque Country; caviar from the Gironde and much more. Markets overflow with tantalising seasonal products while restaurants, cafés and wine bars offer fabulous food and drink to suit all budgets and palates. It’s all about savouring the pleasures of slow living. Three-Michelin-starred chef Michel Guérard, the creator of nouvelle cuisine, has certainly been a trailblazer in the art of living the good life. He and his wife Christine Barthelemy, daughter of the founder of the Biotherm French skin care range, own the mustvisit restaurant and spa retreat of Eugénie-lesBains in Les Landes. There are many more grand restaurants and small owner-chef bistros to discover,

from Bordeaux to Biarritz, and Sarlat to Saint Emilion. Many Bordeaux wine châteaux, such as Château La Dominique, Château de Leognan, and Château Guiraud, have opened restaurants while others, like Château Soutard, Château PrieuréLichine and Château de Ferrand offer exceptional gourmet experiences. New wine touring options include exploring Bordeaux vineyards in a retro motorcycle sidecar and even spending the night in a (large) wine barrel, not to mention guided gourmet hikes in the Dordogne. And don’t forget that river cruises with companies like CroisiEurope make wine and food touring a breeze. Nouvelle-Aquitaine also sports some fascinating themed getaways, such as the Limousin Porcelain Trail, the Oyster Farming Trail in Arcachon Bay, The Gourmet Trail in the Basque Country, and the Master Blender Workshop in Cognac with Maison Camus, which has also launched a brand-new Cognac from the Périgord.

SPOILED FOR CHOICE Hotel and Restaurant Lalique has recently opened at Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey in Bordeaux’s Sauternes region. Here, the worlds of wine, crystal, gastronomy and hospitality have converged into one sublime luxury experience. The restaurant is headed by two Michelin-starred chef Jérôme Schilling. The contemporary five-star Hotel Chais Monnet has recently opened inside an ancient cellar along the Charente River in Cognac. With a gastronomic restaurant as well as a bistro, spa, and the largest Cognac bar in the world, this is one of the most exciting new projects in regional France. Nearby, visit the sleek new rooftop bar at Martell, the oldest wine merchant in Cognac.

Further Information Nouvelle-Aquitaine www.visit-nouvelle-aquitaine.com MAGAZINE

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Experience

River QUEEN GET AWAY FROM IT ALL ON A RIVER CRUISE – THEN STEP ASHORE AS OFTEN AS YOU LIKE. THE CROISIEUROPE RIVER CRUISE OFFERING IS A BRILLIANT BLEND OF ACTIVITY AND INDULGENCE.

ver gazed at a map of the twisting, turning Seine, Loire, Rhone or Gironde rivers and wondered where they lead to, or what you might see along the way? So do many others – and that’s how river cruising was born. River cruising is like a sophisticated road trip, where the vessel is lavishly furnished, the dining rivals any Michelin-starred restaurant, and the recreation goes far beyond your standard cruise-ship pool or movie. That’s especially true when you’re travelling with CroisiEurope, the continent’s largest river cruise company. On the eight-day Bordeaux to Royan cruise, expect an experience not offered by any other provider. After boarding in Bordeaux, you’ll glide up the Garonne River with a welcome cocktail, before an indulgent week taking in the vineyards and castles of Médoc, Gallo-Roman relics at Saintes near Royan, and a day-trip to the spectacular bay of Arcachon, famous for its oysters. CroisiEurope was founded in Strasbourg in 1976 by Gérard Schmitter, an Alsatian credited with spearheading the river cruising genre itself. Its elegant ships are intimate in scale, with a capacity of just 100 to 200 passengers, and still designed and built by the same business. CroisiEurope’s all-inclusive packages place guests within well-appointed luxurious cabins, featuring French balconies, panoramic barlounges and sun decks for relaxation. The welcome on board is warm and attentive. But a true highlight is the gastronomy on board. Every meal is an inventive homage to French cuisine, using fresh and seasonal products, and always paired with wines from the great vineyards you will pass – such as Bordeaux, Burgundy and Beaujolais.

Further Information CroisiEurope www.croisieurope.travel/en 28

Top: the MS Cyrano de Bergerac on the Garonne River (photo © Grégory Gérault); Above: created with top regional produce, fine dining is a highlight of CroisiEurope’s service (photo © CroisiEurope). MAGAZINE

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Air France

Dining with the STARS IN-FLIGHT DINING HAS BEEN TAKEN

Top: grilled scallop with mousseline, created by Julien Royer for the Singapore to Paris route. Below: designer menu card in Business class.

TO THE NEXT LEVEL BY AIR FRANCE, NOW SERVING À LA CARTE MENUS BY THE TWO MICHELIN-STARRED JULIEN ROYER IN ITS PREMIER SEATS.

here comes a time in every discerning traveller’s life when they outgrow economy air travel. Airlines are making that investment in comfort very worthwhile, and Air France is no exception. In 2018, the airline opened its sensational, wellness-centric business lounge at Charles de Gaulle airport, following an extensive upgrade of its entire La Première suites and Business Class cabins. The airline has also responded to customer demand for fresher, healthier and locally sourced cuisines aboard all flights and seating classes. In La Première and Business Class, that concept is taken to dazzling new heights with the launch of Oh My Chef!, an initiative that brings passengers a rolling series of tailored menus by some of the world’s best-known chefs. The chefs often join the flights, serving their own creations or interacting with passengers.

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Top: French chef Julien Royer adds the finishing touches aboard an Air France flight. Below: Royer’s roasted prawns with butternut squash.

CROSS-CONTINENTAL FLAIR A three-month menu was served in La Première earlier in 2019, to honour the late Joël Robuchon – the world’s most Michelin-starred chef. And in April, the airline announced an exclusive partnership with two Michelin-starred chef Julien Royer on its Singapore to Paris-Charles de Gaulle flights, on its La Première suites as well as Business cabins. Royer’s Singapore restaurant Odette won best restaurant in Asia and Singapore earlier this year. He has trained under the celebrated Michel Bras, and worked in numerous high-end Paris and London restaurants. Passionate about provenance, Royer has links with top producers around the world, including in France, Japan and Australia, which he credits with inspiring his cosmopolitan cuisine. Royer’s recent creations for Oh My Chef! included an Apicius duck dish combining sweet, savoury and acidic notes; and a Basque-inspired roasted cod topped with Paimpol coconut, chorizo and the famous Pimento del Piquillo. Royer’s menu will continue to rotate through to March 2020.

NEXT ON THE MENU Royer’s creations will have a wide Aussie audience, since Air France operates daily codeshare flights with Qantas from Australia to Paris via Hong Kong and Singapore. Meanwhile, on other routes such as long-haul flights from Paris and several medium-haul flights, business passengers can enjoy one of two menus designed by Arnaud Lallement – a talented young member of the family behind L’Assiette Champenoise. Lallement has won a string of awards, earning three Michelin stars before the age of 40. His philosophy? Refined and uncomplicated cuisine that concentrates on what’s important. Some recent creations aboard Air France included crab and prawn ravioli, lobster and vegetable sauce; and beef in red wine, served with stuffed conchiglioni pasta shells and carrot purée. Fine wines and champagnes are on hand to accompany every meal. Selected by award-winning sommelier Paolo Basso for their suitability to fine dining in a pressurised cabin, they’re the perfect accent to your French gourmet experience, high above the clouds.

Further Information Air France www.airfrance.com.au Air France operates daily code-share flights with Qantas from Australia MAGAZINE

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Antibes Juan-les-Pins

Riviera FLING

Illumination on the Nomade sculpture by Jaume Plensa, situated waterfront at Antibes (photo © Antibes Juan-les-Pins).

AROUND THE CLOCK, BUT ESPECIALLY AFTER SUNDOWN, ROMANTIC ANTIBES JUAN-LES-PINS TURNS INTO A GOURMET’S PARADISE WHEN ITS MOST ICONIC HOTELS BEGIN THE DINNER SERVICE.

ven along the French coast, few towns have the sensual, sun-drenched allure of Antibes, with its cobblestone streets, Mediterranean breeze and centuriesold seaside ramparts. Greek traders from ancient times were first to visit, naming the city Antipolis, and in the decades since, Antibes has attracted artists, magnates and even royalty. 32

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Nestled between Nice and Cannes on the French Riviera, or Côte d’Azur, Antibes so impressed Picasso with its antiquity, that he created dozens of new works during his stay here in 1946. But the town has another side, as evidenced by the superyachts sitting in port, which led author F. Scott Fitzgerald to call it “a playground for the world”.

THE FIVE-STAR TRAIL Of course, no trip to the south of France would be complete without sampling the local cuisine and, if you insist, a glass or three of French vintage. And there are no shortages of great restaurants to choose from.

There are a few whose fame is legendary, starting with Hôtel Belles Rives. Before it became a hotel, it was the Villa Saint-Louis, which F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife, Zelda, rented in 1926. Today, it serves as the home of several excellent restaurants and bars, most notably the Michelinstarred La Passagère. For more great food and Fitzgerald connections, try the Hôtel du Cap-EdenRoc. You might know it as Hôtel des Etrangers from Fitzgerald’s famous novel, Tender is the Night. Modern visitors adore the hotel’s luxury accommodations and two dining options, EdenRoc Restaurant and Grill Eden-Roc, both of which provide stunning sea views.

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From top: Brochette skewer at Le Cap Restaurant (photo © Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel); local food markets (photo © Antibes Juan-les-Pins); fine seafood at Le Cap (photo © Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel).

Our deluxe Antibes food tour might continue at the five-star Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel, where diners are faced with a tough choice to make between the gourmet, Michelin-starred Les Pêcheurs and the more casual, right-on-the-beach experience of La Cap. Last but certainly not least is Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit. The food here is matched only by the restaurant itself. Tucked away on a cosy, bricklined rue in Old Town, the dining room matches the area’s history with its rustic brickwork and exposed beams. In the old-fashioned courtyard, fig tree vines provide a charming green canopy during summer.

EVERYDAY DINING But one needn’t restrict themselves to fine dining or even restaurants to get their food fix in this lovely French town. The daily Marché Provençal market on cours Masséna is a favourite with locals and tourists alike, providing fresh ingredients and regional treats, like tourte aux blettes and pissaladière. Other must-try signature dishes include sauce antiboise and tomatoes à l’antiboise, which capture the fresh flavours of the Mediterranean – and more specifically the French Riviera – so well.

OUT AND ABOUT That being said, while it may be tempting to spend your entire trip learning the finer points of gastronomy, there’s much more to see and do in Antibes. Culture seekers will enjoy the Musée Picasso, which is housed in the 12th-century castle Picasso once used as a studio, and features a collection of the works he made in Antibes and elsewhere. For leisure, the area’s craggy coastline provides many opportunities, whether it’s sunbathing on the more touristed beaches or taking a dip at a hidden beach known only to a few.

Further Information Antibes Juan-les-Pins www.antibesjuanlespins.com/en MAGAZINE

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AIX marks the spot

GET YOUR FILL OF TRAVEL INSPIRATION NEXT EASTER, AT THE FESTIVAL DE PÂQUES CLASSICAL MUSIC EXTRAVAGANZA IN AIX-EN-PROVENCE.

ravel lets the mind and body recharge, connecting us with different people, history and culture. An emerging destination for those seeking personal enrichment is Aixen-Provence. Every Easter, the lilting and haunting strains of classical music from the Festival de Pâques fill the air of this Provençal city, echoing across its flower gardens, fountains and leafy boulevards. Preparations are underway for the 2020 event, which will be its eighth edition. If 2019 is anything to go by, visitors can expect two weeks of stunning performances. With 27 concerts featuring world-renowned orchestras, outstanding soloists and exciting new talent, it was the city’s hottest musical ticket. Among the highlights were all five of Beethoven’s piano concertos by Austrian pianist Rudolf Buchbinder, and the Basel Symphony Orchestra’s performance of the German Requiem. One of the biggest critic- and crowd-pleasers was George Li. The young Chinese-American concert pianist has been praised for his “staggering technical prowess”, and presented an eclectic evening of piano works, including pieces by Beethoven and Liszt. The festival owes its existence to the musical passions of French violinist Renaud Capuçon and Dominique Bluzet, Director of the Grand Théâtre de Provence. It all started when Capuçon called Bluzet with an idea for a big event in Aix-enProvence, and suggested the two should meet. They arranged a lunch date, and a year later the first edition was announced. The grand ambition is to turn Aix-en-Provence into the French Salzburg, rivalling the Austrian city’s Easter extravaganza of classical and opera music. Since its start, the Festival de Pâques has grown in prestige and stature and is now one of the most eagerly awaited festivals on the international music scene.

Further Information Festival de Pâques

Top: classical music extravaganza, Festival de Pâques, is held every Easter (photo © Festival de Pâques). Below: outdoor performance in Aix-en-Provence (photo © Sophie Spiteri).

www.festivalpaques.com/en/ 34

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RIVER CRUISE FRANCE IN

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LEAVE THE ORDINARY BEHIND AND EMBRACE FRANCE LIKE NEVER BEFORE. Experience quiet indulgence and luxury done our way – a little laid back. Step aboard, unpack just once and be welcomed by a dedicated team who anticipate your every need… Let renowned chefs delight your senses with their creations… Retreat to your suite, kick back and take in the world as it floats on by through floor to ceiling windows… Feel the Avalon difference as you wake up and see France from a unique point of view

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For more information or to book:

CALL 1300 230 234 Visit avalonwaterways.com.au 35

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Gordes, Provence – known as one of France’s most beautiful villages (photo © Loïc Legros Photography).

Beauty Keeping it REAL BELOVED BEAUTY BRAND L’OCCITANE ISN’T JUST A DELIGHT TO USE: IT’S ALSO DEEPLY ETHICAL, WITH AN IMPRESSIVE TRACK RECORD IN PRESERVING THE ENVIRONMENT

FROM

WHICH

PRODUCTS ARE DRAWN.

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emory and our sense of smell are inextricably entwined. The slightest sniff of a flower, or cologne, can transport us immediately back in time and to places halfway around the world. When you travel in Provence, the relationship becomes even more complex: the rich purple fields of lavender, the almond trees in blossom, the rose bushes, and the freshwater springs are the defining features of the landscape and its colour palette.

L’OCCITANE: THE FRAGRANCE OF PROVENCE For more than 40 years, L’Occitane has captured the natural essence of Provence and bottled it. When you spritz your skin with verbena eau de toilette, soothe your lips with a shea balm, or soak in lavender foaming bath, you just need to breathe in deeply and you will feel that you’re once again in the fields of southeastern France. Provence has long been one of France’s most sought-after destinations. Seven popes chose to rule the Catholic church from Avignon, not Rome, no doubt drawn by the beauty of

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From top right: plant extracts are used in all of L’Occitane’s products; the new flagship store at 280 Collins Street, Melbourne; Immortelle Reset Serum (all photos © L’Occitane).

this landscape and its agricultural wealth. The region’s Mediterranean coastlines and forests remain wonderfully biodiverse: L’Occitane has identified 31 separate ecosystems here, and is working collaboratively with the IUCN French Committee to ensure they are protected for future generations to enjoy.

PRESERVING THE LAND As a brand, L’Occitane not only takes its inspiration from Provence’s natural wonders, but also grows many of its ingredients in the region. Jean-Charles Lhommet, the brand’s Head of Biodiversity, talks passionately about four principles – local, sustainability, traceability, and equity. These not only ensure the high quality of L’Occitane’s products, but also protect the land and forge long-lasting partnerships with producers. It’s a commitment Lhommet takes incredibly seriously: he and his team lead 200 field missions each year, visiting and supporting 75 producers and 10,000 harvesters. Travelling across Provence, you can see L’Occitane’s green credentials firsthand. It prioritises cold-pressing of oils to reduce energy consumption, runs all of its French stores on renewable energy, and has 15 certified organic supply chains. Apart from being wellcared for, local landmarks such as Verdon Gorge and Massif des Calanques have inspired several L’Occitane products.

MAKING OF AN ETHICAL PRODUCT Over 110 growers, 300 ingredients and 5,200 hectares of land. Every single L’Occitane product starts with the earth and the plants which grow upon it. The shea butter, almond and lavender, the wild immortelle and the verbena can be traced the entire way through the supply chain, from the field in which they are harvested, all the way to the final bottled product. At harvest time, only the highest quality ingredients make the cut, and they are subject to rigorous testing. A product such as the Immortelle Reset Serum must pass through 1,200 clinical and

sensory tests before it is approved, ensuring that it is effective, enjoyable and safe. Each year, 250 new formulas are tried and tested. L’Occitane cosmetics and fragrances have delighted consumers for 40 years, and a unit of L’Occitane hand cream is sold somewhere in the world every three seconds. Bring home the essence of Provence.

Further Information L’Occitane www.loccitane.com MAGAZINE

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Monaco

Of Grace and GLAMOUR

VISIT MONACO TO EXPERIENCE ITS DAZZLING INTERNATIONAL GLAMOUR, AND FALL HEAD OVER HEELS WITH ITS SENSORY OFFERINGS â&#x20AC;&#x201C; FROM WORLDCLASS DINING TO ART SHOWS AND SPORTS EVENTS. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

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Opposite: a paraglider soars over the principality, a dramatic outcrop in the Mediterranean (photo © Visit Monaco). This page, top: terrace-side at Fairmont (photo ©Fairmont Monte Carlo); below: a rooftop pool is just one of the deluxe features of Monte-Carlo-Prince Rainier III Suite, Hotel de Paris (photo © Monte-Carlo SBM).

ith its dazzling Riviera setting, breathtaking rugged clifftops, James Bond-featured casino and Hollywood-tinted history, ever since the late Princess Grace married into the royal family, the Principality of Monaco sounds rather mythical. Yet this seriously tiny (as in 2.2 square kilometres tiny) independent city-state between France and Italy’s Mediterranean coastline is a real place, and a great destination for both the jet-set elite and the everyday traveller. The good news is that the luxury is now paired with a clean living program, backed by Prince Albert II. The slogan? ‘Green is the New Glam’.

NEW IN 2019 The elegant Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo (www.montecarlosbm.com/en) has been a hub for royalty and international stars since the 1950s, and has recently been renovated to combine its classic elegance with ultimate modern comforts. If you’re feeling flush, book a night in the Princess Grace Suite (the hotel was one of her favourite venues) that occupies the top two floors and overlooks the stunning Mediterranean. Or perhaps the new Prince Rainier III Suite – the hotel’s largest suite. You will feel, and be treated, like royalty. Otherwise, kick back with cocktails and live jazz in Le Bar Américain, then dine at one of their exquisite restaurants (see below). Another hotel that’s still swish and sophisticated, yet more modest in décor and price, is the Columbus Monte-Carlo boutique hotel (www.columbushotels.com). The 181 rooms are newly refurbished in lovely blue and ochre colours, and their balconies offer views of both city and sea. Monte Carlo’s concentration of high-end designer boutiques are part of the principality’s identity. A luxury shopping promenade has opened on Promenade Princesse Charlène with 40 boutiques from the world’s most dazzling and prestigious designers, including Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Prada and Saint Laurent. Gaze in and goggle, or splash out on something special (www.montecarlosbm.com/ en/shopping-monaco). MAGAZINE

Introducing the

Lillet Vive • 60mL Lillet Blanc • 100mL Tonic Water • Slice of Cucumber • Strawberry • Mint sprig Enjoy Lillet responsibly

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Seafood with herbs at Blue Bay Restaurant (photo © Monte-Carlo SBM).

FIVE-STAR MEDITERRANEAN FLAVOURS The Mediterranean diet is widely considered to be among the healthiest in the world, and the ‘Less transport, more taste’ motto of Monégasque restaurateurs is wowing diners with spectacular fresh, local cuisine. Restaurant superstar Alain Ducasse has opened his second restaurant in Monaco following decades of acclaim at Le Louis XV. The new venture, ÔMER, is inside the Hôtel de Paris MonteCarlo and features a yacht-inspired interior design by Pierre-Yves Rochon. It’s a fitting accent to the views from dining tables, overlooking the gardens and sea, and a menu that celebrates these very same elements. The dishes created by Ducasse and head chef Patrick Laine are designed to share, and take their inspiration from the diverse flavours of the Mediterranean – including Greece, Lebanon, Turkey, Morocco, Tunisia, Nice and Malta. On the eighth floor of the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, Le Grill promises an unforgettable Mediterranean evening. The cuisine, created by Franck Cerutti, is sublime: choose from slowcooked fish and meat on wood-fire rotisseries, homemade pastas, shellfish, calamari and more. Meals are matched with extraordinary vintage wines chosen by expert sommelier Patrice Frank, and picked from the hotel’s wine cellar – one of the largest on the planet. To (literally) top things off, the roof is convertible, so you can not only gaze over the sea while you dine, but up to the stars. Wow-factor ticked! Nearby, Elsa is the world’s first (and to date, only) fully organic Michelin-starred restaurant and is situated in the gorgeous five-star MonteCarlo Beach Hotel (www.montecarlosbm.com/ en). Executive chef Paolo Sari dishes up tasty, contemporary and inventive meals designed to suit the season and the local Riviera culinary history. This Italian-born talent has travelled the world, cooking and studying food in places as unusual as Asian monasteries. His motto, ‘Healthy body, healthy mind’ governs his selection of the best local products from Grasse, Menton and Sanremo. There are many other restaurants for all tastes. Tavolo (tavolomc.com/en/), the convivial terraced restaurant of the Columbus Monte-Carlo. Blue Bay Restaurant, at Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort, fuses Mediterranean and Caribbean flavours thanks to chef Marcel Ravin, while the Perles de Monte-Carlo (www.perlesdemontecarlo. com/en) is a terrific little oyster bar on the end of the Port de Fontvieille pier. Yum. MAGAZINE

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Top: rooftop dining at Le Grill (photo © Monte-Carlo SBM); below: colourful produce at Condamine Market (photo © Visit Monaco).

THINGS TO DO IN MONACO Art events, car races, yacht shows and open air concerts are among the vibrant things to do in Monaco that pepper the calendar year-round. Since 1974, the Monte-Carlo Sporting Summer Festival has been held every July and August at the Salle des Etoiles. Vanessa Paradis and The Beach Boys are among the stars set to grace the stage in 2019. Art lovers can delight in the Dali: A History of Painting retrospective until 8 September 2019 at the Grimaldi Forum Monaco (www.grimaldiforum. com/en), commemorating the 30th anniversary of the Catalonian surrealist artist’s death. From 25-28 September in 2019, Monaco’s Port Hercule will host the Monaco Yacht Show (www. monacoyachtshow.com/en) for buyers, sailors and admiring public onlookers. Sip champagne, and muse over which boat you fancy. Since 1929, Monaco has been famous for the Formula One Grand Prix, four days of widely broadcast races. The event is renowned for not only the terrifying hairpin turns, just metres from sheer cliff-faces, but also for the glamorous onlookerscome-party crowd. Monaco-based Australian driver Daniel Ricciardo, hailing from Perth, won the 2018 race in a wide berth – a dramatic 7.3 seconds ahead of the nearest entrant. Who will be next? You can find out next year on 21 – 24 May 2020. Equally incredible viewing is the biannual Historic Grand Prix, with races showcasing roughly each decade of vintage cars between the pre-war era to the 1970s. It’s coming up on 8 – 10 May 2020 (acm.mc). Getting back to daily life, the Condamine Market, operating since 1880, is a must for visitors keen to experience local life. Stock up on yummy fresh produce and flowers, and snack on some Monegasque street food such as Barbajuan (a fritter stuffed with Swiss chard and ricotta) or Socca (a type of pancake made from chickpea flour, water and olive oil). Join the locals to pair it with a crisp glass of white wine. Santé!

Further Information Visit Monaco www.visitmonaco.com/en 42

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Join us on our Paris Explorer trip to go beyond the doors of the Fragonard Museum in Grasse to create your very own lasting travel memory with La Belle Vie perfume to keep forever.

LEARN MORE AT TRAFALGAR.COM/FRAGONARD

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Nice Côte d’Azur

A Place in the SUN TRADITIONAL

NICE

CHANGING,

WITH COOL RESTAURANTS AND BARS ADDING TO ITS ALREADY EXCELLENT GALLERIES,

GREEN

SPACES

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BEACHES. BY JENNIFER HUDSON

hroughout history, Nice has dazzled holidaymakers and high society with its irresistible mix of sunshine and glamour. Sip a cocktail on the terrace of a Belle Époque mansion, spend the day in a chic beach club, and before long you’ll start feeling like a superstar. Beyond the city, oil mills, vineyards and orchards are scattered throughout the countryside. You’ll come across tiny medieval villages nestled in forests, just waiting to be explored. Further inland is a wild, unspoiled landscape of mountains and rivers, perfect for hiking.

MEDITERRANEAN JEWEL Nice is built on a sweep of sparkling coastline that begins at Cap d’Antibes and ends at Cap Ferrat, close to the Italian border. Strolling along the historic Promenade des Anglais is the best way to take everything in, from the grand hotels and beaches to the local sun-worshippers. Make a detour to Musée Masséna, a lavish turn-of-thecentury villa where you can discover the history of the region. The streets of the Old Town, with their architectural gems, pavement cafés and tiny wine shops, are perfect for wandering. The Old Town is also home to the Marché du Cours Saleya, the famous outdoor market selling flowers, fresh food, crafts and antiques. You’ll find many other specialty goods here, from home-made chocolates to street-food dishes. At Nicolas Alziari, buy a bottle of the region’s finest olive oil, produced locally since 1868. Historic perfume houses Molinard and Fragonard also have luxury boutiques in this area. Nice is a city for art lovers as well as foodies. For €26, the all-inclusive French Riviera Pass lets you visit more than 60 sites and activities for a 44

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Opposite: shopping in downtown Nice near the Cours Saleya market (photo © J Kelagopian/ OTCN). This page, top: aerial view over the old town (photo © VDN); below: street chef cooking socca, Nice’s beloved flatbread made from chickpea flour (photo © J Kelagopian/OTCN).

week, including the city’s incredible museums. Walk through the fountains of the Promenade du Paillon to the Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain, which includes works by top postwar artists. Also ensure you make time to visit the Musée Marc Chagall and Musée Matisse, dedicated to these artists exclusively.

FASHIONABLE FOOD A clutch of up-and-coming restaurants has emerged around Nice’s port area. JAN (www. restaurantjan.com) on Rue Lascaris retained its Michelin star this year for the fourth year running. The menu is ultra-modern, and each dish is presented like a flawless work of art. High in the Mercantour National Park, the restaurant at L’Auberge Quintessence (www. auberge-quintessence.com) gained its first Michelin star in January. Chef Christophe Billau buys his ingredients from a farmers’ collective and uses wild plants from the mountainside in his cooking. The restaurant is attached to an intimate seven-room hotel, making this the perfect rural retreat.

LOCAL FLAVOURS Make sure to look for the ‘Cuisine Nissarde’ mark, assigned to restaurants and street-food stalls specialising in generations-old recipes. These dishes were created from ingredients that could be grown in the dry, rocky Provençal landscape including olives, figs, grapes, beans, lentils and wild herbs. Recently awarded the Cuisine Nissarde label is Le 37 Pop at the Hotel Negresco (www.hotelnegresco-nice.com/en), run by chef Virginie Basselot. The menu includes reinvented classics such as La Doba a la Nissarda and wine from the exclusive Bellet region in the hills of Nice. Follow in the top chefs’ footsteps and visit the local markets to discover more about the region’s cuisine. You’ll find a varied fresh food market at Place du Général de Gaulle, and nearby, a new artisanal food court, La Halle Gourmande, in the old Gare du Sud. The city is perfectly located for a day trip to other Provençal markets, like the ones in old Antibes and Vence. Further Information Nice Côte d’Azur www.nicetourisme.com MAGAZINE

Discover Smal Ship Cruising

FREE INFORMATION EVENTS. REGISTER NOW! 1300 737 178

AWAKEN YOUR SENSE OF WONDER

EXPLORE THE WORLD ON BOARD LUXURY SMALL SHIPS PONANT, the World Leader of Luxury Expeditions has been sailing the seas for over 30 years. Embark aboard modern small ships offering exceptional itineraries, stops at the very heart of ports and remote places not accessible by larger ships. On board, experience refined ambience, comfort and intuitive service, sailing on luxury small ships, with just 32 to 132 staterooms & suites, 95% with a private balcony, enjoy complimentary Wi-Fi, an Open Bar, outstanding gastronomy and inclusive wines. Accompanied by experienced lecturers or an Expedition team, time ashore is maximised, with many excursions featuring UNESCO sites. On Luxury Expeditions, Zodiac® enable guests to get close to nature and remote cultures. Zodiac® trips along Australia’s ancient Kimberley coastline, wildlife observation in Antarctica or the Arctic, exploration of historic sites in Latin America or enjoying vineyards in Bordeaux... which cruise will you choose?

Here is a sample of over 400 PONANT global voyages available: ICONIC KIMBERLEY: May to August 2019 & 2020. 10 nights from $11,860 pp*(1) EMBLEMATIC ANTARCTICA: Nov. 2019/20 to Feb. 2020/21. 10 nights from $12,370 pp*(2) MAYA TREASURE OF THE YUCATÁN: Nov. 2019 to Jan. 2020. 7 nights from $4,480 pp*(3) GASTRONOMY, VINEYARDS & GRANDS CRUS: 11th April 2020. 8 nights from $5,390 pp*(4) For more cruise itineraries, visit au.ponant.com. Learn more about PONANT at our FREE Information Events in your closest capital city or request a brochure. Contact your Travel Agent or our PONANT Cruise Consultants on: Australia: 1300 737 178 | New Zealand: 0800 767 018 | reservations.aus@ponant.com | au.ponant.com *Ponant Bonus discount subject to change based on availability. Ponant Bonus fare per person, in Australian Dollars, based on a double occupancy, including port taxes, yield managed, correct at time of writing - 29/04/2019. Refer to au.ponant.com for T&Cs. (1) For the 8th May 2020 cruise in a Deluxe Stateroom. (2) For the 2nd Dec. 2020 cruise in a Superior Stateroom. (3) For the 25th Jan. 2020 cruise in a Deluxe Stateroom. (4) In a Superior Stateroom. Photographs: © PONANT: Matthieu Germain, Nick Rains, François Lefebvre. ABN: 35 166 676 517

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Cruise

LUXURY on the horizon FRENCH CRUISE OPERATOR PONANT MANAGES MOST

COMBINE

SOPHISTICATED

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ON-BOARD

EXPERIENCE WITH DARING ITINERARIES AND A STUNNING, DESIGNER FLEET. BY SALLY HAMMOND

igh-end travellers expect luxury. With this firmly in mind, Ponant, a global boutique cruise operator, has chosen to go above and beyond, providing capital-L luxury with a frisson of adventure. Founded over 30 years ago, Ponant’s initial vision offered the finest sea travel with a distinctive Gallic ambience. ‘The French Way of the Sea’, they called it, and although there is now a fleet of eight ships with more to come, this focus remains.

A ‘TASTE OF LUXURY’ Ponant is justifiably proud of the ‘French touch’ delivered on the line’s luxury yachts, and naturally excels in gastronomy and oenology. Lovers of French cuisine can now choose from itineraries in 14 regions worldwide, from polar to tropical settings, while showcasing the fine art of food and wine matching. On all ships, French chefs work in close partnership with experts from Ducasse Conseil, a catering centre of excellence run by Ducasse Paris. They create and share classic and creative dishes, while equally talented and experienced sommeliers discuss and suggest the best wines to enhance diners’ choices. While on gastronomy or oenology-themed cruises, guests are placed in the company of world-famous chefs such as the Michelin-starred Jérôme Nutile or Patrick Jeffroy. Wine-lovers will appreciate meeting aficionados such as the awardwinning sommelier Eric Beaumard, or the French wine and gastronomy specialist Jean-Robert Pitte.

THIS COULD BE YOU One of Ponant’s earliest itineraries was a cruise through a spray of isles off the northwestern coast of France, the little-known Ponant islands after which the line was named.

Enjoy delicious French-inspired gourmet cuisine on board all Ponant cruises (photo © Ponant/F Lefebvre). The seven-night gastronomic Treasures of Brittany cruise from St Malo, commencing September 2020, revisits these islands on the new Explorer-class ship Le Jacques Cartier. Fine cuisine is a hallmark of the cruise, along with cooking demonstrations and wine tastings. Also notable for guests is the region’s coastline and charming historic villages, such as Port-Navalo at the entrance to the Gulf of Morbihan, and Belle-Île-en-Mer further south with its pristine moors, rocky inlets and sheltered bays. Further south, the eight-night Gastronomy, Vineyards & Grands Crus cruise on L’Austral departing Lisbon in April 2020 explores the heart of France’s Bordeaux region. A highlight is Pauillac in the Gironde estuary, with wine tastings at several estates and a gala dinner on board that night, featuring Château Latour as the backdrop. Two days in Bordeaux, the wine capital of the world, makes a fitting finale.

MORE LUXURY ON THE HORIZON Ponant, the youngest and most modern luxury cruise fleet in the world, will soon add three new Explorer ships: Le Dumont-d’Urville in August 2019 and Le Bellot and Le Jacques Cartier in 2020. In 2021, the world’s first LNG electric-hybrid polar exploration ship joins the fleet, enabling guests to follow the great polar explorers – albeit in luxurious comfort. As the cruise line continues to grow, a French proverb holds the simple clue as to the secret for its success: ‘It is impossible to overdo luxury.’

Further Information Ponant Australia: 1300 737 178 New Zealand: 0800 767 018 reservations.aus@ponant.com au.ponant.com MAGAZINE

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WALK this way CULT SHOE DESIGNER CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN IS THE LATEST TO ADD ACTIVEWEAR TO HIS COLLECTION, WITH THE LAUNCH OF HIS BLING-TASTIC RUN LOUBI RUN SNEAKERS.

ith their trademark crimson soles and vertiginous heel heights, Christian Louboutin’s shoes have been a red carpet fixture for over two decades. Now, with the launch of Run Loubi Run, the French shoemaker presents a collection of streetwear-inspired performance sneakers that take his outrageous brand of glamour into everyday urban life. As you might expect from the maverick brand, these sneakers are anything but basic. Sure, they’re made with technical fabrics like neoprene, and feature chunky soles perfect for all-day wear. But they are designed first and foremost to make a statement. Some designs feature the brand’s iconic spikes, while others showcase loud neon hues, glitter and handapplied crystals. The sneakers also include Louboutin’s trademark red soles. They’re wearable works of art, demonstrating the same savoir-faire and splashy elegance as the signature stilettos. To make sure his fans can flaunt his athleisure style in full, Louboutin has even developed a line of matching handbags in the same fabrics. With Run Loubi Run, Louboutin embraces his lifelong connection with show-business: “The first shoes I ever designed were for showgirls, for people on stage,” he explained in an interview to the Hollywood Reporter. Not surprisingly, dance has occupied the centre stage of Run Loubi Run since their launch. The collection was presented in a high-octane performance by street dancer Kevin Mischel, while singer and actor Quincy Brown directed and starred in a promotional short film wearing them. They’re available on the global website, for men and women.

Campaign images from the Run Loubi Run launch (photos © Louboutin).

Further Information Christian Louboutin www.christianlouboutin.com 49

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From main: designer lines of Ducasse’s cooking school (photo © Eric Bergoend); participants cooking together; final touches during a pâtisserie class (photos © Benjamin Schmuck).

Gourmet Recipe for SUCCESS FROM LOBSTER TO LANGOUSTINES AND SOUFFLÉ TO MILLEFEUILLE, ALAIN DUCASSE HAS SERVED HIS SHARE OF SIGNATURE DISHES. NOW, YOU CAN EVEN LEARN HOW HE DOES IT.

rench-born and Monaco-based, chef Alain Ducasse has been wowing gourmet circles for decades. Ducasse has taken French gastronomy to the world, and influenced a global generation of chefs and restaurateurs. He is a hands-on practitioner and the presidentfounder of Maison Ducasse, which operates an empire of 31 exceptional restaurants. After winning his first three Michelin stars at the age of 33, he has gone on to hold a mind-boggling 21 Michelin stars since that time. Luckily for cooking enthusiasts, Ducasse is also passionate about sharing that knowledge. An important channel of that is his new-generation 50

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education program, including the impressive Paris École de Cuisine Alain Ducasse. Open to anyone who wants to cook well, the school aims to ensure timeless skills are passed onto future generations. Forget the sterile settings of the past. The École is a 500-square-metre landmark venue designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon, and houses four kitchens, a dedicated wine tasting area and corporate function spaces. Students are welcomed into what feels like a family home, with living areas, fireplace and a terrace. The open kitchens allow participants to experience first-hand the simple, real cooking methods, tricks and tips that have made Alain Ducasse a global phenomenon.

Students can take either a beginners’ or an advanced course level, in classes that run from four hours to three days, from Mondays through Saturdays. Learn how to season correctly, prepare a base sauce, fillet a fish and relearn the French classics. Most are taught in French, although the aptly named Cooking Classes in English series offers six popular options.

Further Information École de Cuisine Alain Ducasse www.ecolecuisine-alainducasse.com

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Bistro BEST in the west THE DELIGHTFUL BISTRO GUILLAUME PERTH IS LIKE AN OASIS OF FINE FRENCH BISTRO CUISINE, WINES AND SERVICE, OVERLOOKING ONE OF PERTH’S MOST SPECTACULAR RESORT LANDSCAPES.

e’s learned his craft alongside the likes of culinary masters Eric Ripert and the late Joël Robuchon, but what Frenchborn Guillaume Brahimi relishes the most is bringing his unique style of bistro-led French cuisine to diners around the globe. That’s why he consults to the French rugby team and cruise operators alike, and has three restaurants across Australia. This year, his Bistro Guillaume Perth celebrates seven years since opening in the completely revamped Crown Perth. Stepping inside the opulent resort feels like you have entered some far-flung paradise, with its fivemetre-wide chandeliers in the lobby, soaring atrium and exotic textures on every surface. That initial glamour transitions to a soothing oasis deeper within, where you’ll find the enchanting Bistro Guillaume, with its soothing green-and-white décor and view over the resort pool. Diners can choose intimate nooks or the main dining area, seated on green wishbone chairs, beneath crafted chandeliers and billowing white curtains,. True to his signature style, Guillaume offers a delectable menu rich with French classics such as duck confit, roast chicken, twice-baked cheese soufflé with Roquefort sauce, fresh seafood, terrine and steak tartare. The dishes are also an homage to the area’s incredible produce and vibrant seasonal ingredients. Respected food critic Terry Durack has described ‘the Frenchness of the service’ as being one unforgettable aspect of dining at a Guillaume establishment, and that definitely applies here. Attentive service, magnificent tableware and French table staff contribute to that feeling. Bookings are available for lunch and dinner daily, and the bistro also hosts a weekly high tea. Clockwise from above: house-made profiteroles (photo © Crown Restaurants); luminous greens and a poolside garden setting complete the resort vibe (photo © Guillaume).

Further Information Bistro Guillaume Perth bistroguillaumeperth.com.au MAGAZINE

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Beaune

This page: nostalgic charm at Domaine Jean Chartron, held by the same family for five generations (photo © Studio Piffaut).

Heard it through the GRAPEVINE HISTORIC BEAUNE IS THE WINE CAPITAL OF BURGUNDY’S WINEGROWING REGION, AND A YEAR-ROUND CHARMER OFFERING VISITORS PLENTY OF NEW TAKES ON CLASSIC FOOD AND WINE THEMES. BY PAUL ARNOLD

ith its narrow cobbled streets, Renaissance mansions, idyllic landscapes, gastronomy and great wines, Beaune is a delightful combination of history, culture, nature, food and drink. This compact, ancient walled town has a long past that dates back to the Roman times and beyond. Later, during the 14th century, the powerful Dukes of Burgundy made it their base and established a parliament here in 1354. Sitting in the heart of Burgundy’s vineyards within a UNESCO World Heritage-listed wine area, Beaune is considered the wine capital of the region. It is also home to many influential wine merchants. This is a fascinating small town that is big on flavours.

OLD-WORLD WINING AND DINING WINE NOT? There are plenty of other ways to experience Beaune’s flavours. For example, sign up for tasting courses at the Burgundy Wine School or at Sensation Vin. Or time your trip to the area to coincide with any of the numerous annual wine festivals. They include Beaune Saveurs des Vignes which combines wine tasting with the joys and vigours of hiking and Le Printemps de Monthelie where Monthelie’s wine growers open up their cellars. All offer exciting routes to encounter the best of Beaune’s wines and gastronomy.

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Beaune’s temperate climate and geology give rise to some of the finest wines in Burgundy, such as Bâtard-Montrachet wines and the Corton appellation. This is Beaune’s only appellation produced in red and white. Pair these great wines with outstanding cuisines in the town’s restaurants, part of a culinary scene rich with fine dining options boasting no fewer than 10 Michelin stars. Among the gourmet highlights is restaurant Le Carmin, a Henry IV-style house where one Michelin-starred chef Christophe Quéant serves modern, creative cuisine made with local produce. Beaune’s food and wine highlights can also be discovered on food tours, at markets and through vineyard experiences. Book a tour on the intimate Beaune Gourmand walk, a tastebud-tempting food tour organised by

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Clockwise from main: cycling through Burgundy is relaxing and enjoyable; (photo © Studio Piffaut); cellar master Ludivine Griveau of Hospices de Beaune (photo ©Hospices de Beaune); cooking and wine appreciation classes by Terroirs by Adeline (photo © Terroirs by Adeline).

the Tourist Office, to discover local specialities and food shops. Browse markets for Burgundy truffles, snails, mustard, cheeses and other local delights.

NEW WAVE OF FLAVOURS Always keen to show off the region’s authentic and quality products, Burgundian companies are passionate about informing, educating and exciting the public. Currently among those leading the charge is a clutch of prominent women entrepreneurs. Winecertified (WSET) artisan chef Adeline Borra has combined food and wine experiences to

create Terroirs By Adeline. This novel concept is a range of cooking and tasting classes and market tours for beginners, amateurs and professionals. Delicious flavour discoveries are also part of a new offering by Catherine Brossais. She gave up her marketing career to set up Active Tours. This company offers French travel experiences that combine active holidays such as hiking and cycling with wine tourism. Flavoursome adventures continue at Maison Olivier Leflaive, a beautiful hotel in a 17th-century building. Manager Julie Leflaive provides guests with a variety of wine

experiences including tasting lunches, cellar visits and vineyard tours. Among Beaune’s oldest vineyards are those belonging to the Hospices de Beaune. This legendary estate has been part of the fabric of Burgundy life since the 15th century. Today around 20 winegrowers work under the direction of cellar master Ludivine Grivaud, the first woman to be appointed to the role.

Further Information Office de Tourisme Beaune & Pays Beaunois www.beaune-tourism.com MAGAZINE

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Burgundy

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Parade of Citroën 2CV cars in the vineyards of Côte de Nuits à Vougeot (photo © Alain Doire / Bourgogne-FrancheComté Tourisme).

IN BURGUNDY, THE WINEMAKING WORLD IS EVOLVING AT AN INCREDIBLE PACE – ALL IN AN UNCROWDED, REFINED SETTING OF STATELY HISTORY AND UNSPOILED NATURE. BY ALIX BARNAUD

ith its rolling hills covered in vineyards, and its sleepy villages with their golden stone walls and iconic roofs of colourful tile, Burgundy has long been synonymous with exceptional wine and certain French art-de-vivre. Although it is located less than two hours from Paris by train, it is a region that is still off the beaten track for many tourists. Take advantage of this to explore an uncrowded area hiding a treasure-trove of elegant castles, stately abbeys and picturesque landscapes.

FROM TRADITION TO REVOLUTION Burgundy wines have been renowned since the Middle Ages, but this appellation covers an exceptional variety of producers. The region boasts 1,247 climats, or localities on which vines are cultivated (also known as cru in other French wine regions), and each has its own characteristics. The differences in topography, soil composition, sun exposition and drainage affect the flavours of the wine in each climat. This incredible diversity was recognised in 2015 when the Burgundy climats were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Burgundy vineyards include six main wine regions: Chablis and Auxerrois in the northwest, Chatillonnais in the north, and on a seam that extends from Dijon to Mâcon, the Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise and Macônnais. Burgundy is known equally for its red and its white wines. Chardonnay dominates the white MAGAZINE

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wine production, particularly in Chablis and some parts of the Côtes de Beaune, such as Montrachet. Red wines are principally issued from pinot noir grapes and are particularly renowned in the Côte de Nuit. After centuries of production based on a devout respect of customs and traditions, Burgundy has also become a leader in revolutionary techniques for wine production. Following some turbulence after the 1980s, an era characterised by sweeping changes in Burgundy’s wine production techniques, Burgundy has come back stronger than ever as a darling of the wine-drinking world. Since the early 1990s, longstanding winemaking families set in their ways must compete with passionate newcomers who have brought innovative practices to the vinification process. Unafraid of change and extensively trained, this new generation of winemakers takes advantage of the latest scientific advances. They’re developing a product that’s rich in flavour yet respects the natural environment that makes Burgundy an exceptional terroir.

A NEW GENERATION OF WINEMAKERS Women, once a marginalised group in the winemaking industry, are now the leaders of some of the most renowned winemaking companies. Some of them are the public figures of major establishments, like Florence Garnier-Delchez, who became the commercial director of the Chanzy group, one of the top 10 Burgundian wine producers, in 2018. Others, like Clotilde Davenne from Les Temps Perdus vineyards, or Geneviève Rousset-Delbecq from the Domaine du Bicheron, are winemakers themselves. The Femmes et Vins de Bourgogne association, created in 2000, includes over 40 members. Burgundy wines, with their small, historical estates, are primarily a family affair. True outsiders, like American Blair Pethel who uprooted his family from Washington to buy Domaine Dublère after a career in political journalism in 2002, are far and few in between. However, the offspring of old winegrowing families have managed to bring a new vitality to Burgundy, with many of them coming back to their roots after a professional career away from the family vineyards. Among many others, Athénaïs de Béru, from the Clos de Béru in Chablis, left behind her Parisian life and finance job in 2004 to take the lead on the family estate, bringing in a new flair with the introduction of biodynamic methods. 56

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Clockwise from top: Athénaïs and Laurence de Béru at Château de Béru [photo © Thierry Malty]; café La Part des Anges in Dijon (photo © Alain Doire / Bourgogne-FrancheComté Tourisme); Dominique Loiseau and her daughter Bérangère, second-generation owners of the Michelin-starred Relais Bernard Loiseau (photo © Sophie Boulanger).

This trend, introduced by Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner in the first half of the 20th century, conceives the care for the vines and the vinification process as a whole. It combines organic farming methods with more esoteric theories, like the importance of the moon phases. Some of the most reputable Burgundian wine estates were early adopters of these biodynamic techniques, including the late Anne-Claude Leflaive from the Domaine Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet, and Lalou Bize-Leroy from the Domaine de la RomanéeConti. The triumphant success of their wines encouraged many vintners to change their ways in favour of a more eco-friendly style of winemaking, despite the extensive demands of the biodynamic methods. This gentle approach contributes to preserving the exceptional natural beauty of Burgundy.

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Top: the Cathedral of Saint Lazarus in Autun, famous for its Romanesque architecture; the main square in Dijon (both photos © Alain Doire / BourgogneFranche-Comté Tourisme).

FEASTING ON HISTORY Although oenotourism remains the most common reason visitors choose to explore Burgundy, the region boasts a long history dating back to the antiquity. From the Romans to the Dukes of Burgundy and the incredible châteaux of rich winemakers, the area offers an astounding array of majestic historic buildings nestled among the vineyards and quaint medieval towns. The geographical position of the region at the heart of Europe, a natural crossroad between the north and the south, has made Burgundy a significant actor in French religion, economy and politics throughout the ages. Monuments like the abbatial church of Cluny, the largest one in the Occident in its time, the Fontenay Abbey, the largest one in the world still intact, and the basilica SainteMarie-Madeleine in Vézelay, both listed as World Heritage by UNESCO, stand witness to the considerable power of the church in the region. Burgundy also harbours a large number of charming villages, tucked away amid the vines. Some are classified Most Beautiful Villages of France, such as the village of Châteauneufdu-Pape (Chablis is not a member of the Most Beautiful Villages of France) or FlavignySur-Ozerain. With their narrow streets, grand homes and peaceful atmosphere, they seem to belong to a different time when life was simpler. Breathtaking Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, is testimony to the wealth of the area and deserves its own chapter. Befitting its wines, Burgundy also has an insatiable love of fine food. Visitors can enjoy legendary restaurants such as the Relais Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu (two Michelin stars), as well as humble local specialties like Anis de Flavigny, making it a must-see for any gastronomy lover.

Further Information Bourgogne Franche-Comté Tourism en.bourgognefranchecomte.com

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Accor

FLAVOUR of the year WHAT’S NEW IN THE WORLD OF FRENCH GASTRONOMY? WE SPOKE WITH AMIR NAHAI, CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER FOOD & BEVERAGE AND LIFESTYLE AT ACCOR TO FIND OUT.

Where would you take visitors in Paris? I love taking visitors to authentic bistros where the menu is simple and the chefs create magic every night. Some favourites include Le Bon Georges where Benoit, the owner, is simply the perfect host. Le Severo is a three-man operation where you can get the best steak frîtes in Paris. At Les Cocottes, at our Sofitel Arc de Triomphe, chef Christian Constant also serves some of the most authentic and delicious food in the city. What are some other fantastic dining experiences in France? A big contender is Les Halles Paul Bocuse in Lyon. Here, under one enormous roof, you have some of the finest delicacies in France and you can enjoy much of the food right there. At Chez Antonin, you start with a glass of Muscadet and a small plate of oysters, and next thing you know, you are on your fourth bottle of wine and surrounded by friends.

Top: French-inspired grill Atelier, at the new Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour. Below: American national Amir Nahai oversees an empire of 10,000 bars and restaurants in his role as Chief Executive Officer, Food & Beverage and Lifestyle.

Which French dishes do you enjoy cooking at home? One of my favourites is steak au poivre, which brings back wonderful memories of my childhood. My dad made this dish for me, and I would be in awe from the cognac flambéing, while my poor mum would worry about me singeing my eyelashes on the fire!

Why do the French have such a reputation for gastronomy? Because it’s true: the French love food, and it’s a huge part of their culture and life. I am always touched by the appreciation the French have for their chefs, their producers and their heritage in food and beverage. Let’s hope these never get overrun by the pressures and realities of modern life.

What is your top food market in Paris? Every Parisian thinks their neighbourhood has the best markets in town, and I am no exception (see side box). However, I enjoy the Marché Président Wilson on Wednesday mornings. Here I’ll stock up on great seasonal produce and share a croissant with some of the best chefs in town.

Does France have a standout region for food and wine? Absolutely not! Every region in France is amazing in its own way. In fact, most visitors only know a tiny bit of French cuisine. I really encourage people to travel around the different regions of France, and be amazed by its diverse cuisine.

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A PARISIAN FEAST Amir’s favourite suppliers near the famous rue Poncelet and its fine open-air market, in Paris’ 17th arrondissement, include: Alléosse – legendary cheese store, supplying top restaurants such as Apicius. Maison Divay – foie gras, ham and little sausages (the kind that everyone loves when you have guests over). La Maison Nordique – the best smoked salmon, caviar and other delicacies from the sea. Top: Bouillabaisse from Atelier in Sydney. Below: Les Cocottes at Sofitel Arc de Triomphe (all photos © Accor).

What is Accor doing to innovate its food and beverage offering? One big change is that we no longer talk about ‘hotel restaurants’, instead seeing ourselves as restaurateurs who focus on our local communities. We’re empowering our local teams, and creating incredible experiences at all the cities where we have a location. In numbers, what is Accor’s food and beverage strategy achieving? Around 80,000 women and men at Accor work in our 10,000 bars and restaurants. In the last three years, their contributions have helped lift guest and employee satisfaction by 10 points, and establish flagships in every brand around the world. This is a small hint of what you can expect from us in the years to come.

Further Information Accor www.accorhotels.com MAGAZINE

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In Seine dining with DUCASSE REMARKABLE CHEF ALAIN DUCASSE HAS LAUNCHED HIS DUCASSE SUR SEINE LUNCH AND DINNER CRUISES, ABOARD A CUSTOM VESSEL DESIGNED TO TRULY SHOWCASE THE ROMANTIC PARIS SCENERY.

Top: terrace dining aboard the Ducasse sur Seine; below: fresh lobster with coral vinaigrette (photos © Pierre Monetta).

ick a Paris landmark, and you can be sure there’s a memorable dining experience nearby. Now, chef Alain Ducasse is inviting visitors to experience several Paris icons at once aboard his new 100-seat Ducasse sur Seine, a sleek, fully electric cruise boat custom-built for €11 million. Just like falling into a French master’s painting, diners can now enjoy changing views of Paris’ famous landmarks, all from elegant window-side tables decked in embroidered linen, set with fine Portuguese porcelain and Murano glass candles. Contemporary French cuisine is prepared fresh on board to showcase sumptuous seasonal produce and favourite regional dishes. Ducasse’s menu celebrates the best produce of France – including golden sea bass or flounder from Brittany, fine meats from Bordeaux and pink-white mushrooms from Île-de-France. The menu also interprets favourite classics, such as warm guinea fowl stuffed with foie gras pâté, vegetarian cocotte (cookpot) of spelt and violet artichokes. An extensive wine and champagne list features 100 top selections from throughout France, and continues to evolve, incorporating new wines and reflecting seasonal trends. During the cruise’s two-hour journey, guests can stroll along two outdoor terraces above the restaurant, savouring the splendours of Paris by day, or the illuminated scene by night. Of special note, the evening cruise wraps up at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. Such cruise highlights reflect the words on the vessel’s bow – voluptas urtis adposita, Latin for ‘the pleasures of the city revealed through the table’. Further Information Ducasse sur Seine Online bookings essential www.ducasse-seine.com MAGAZINE

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Good France

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GLOBAL FRENCH CULINARY NIGHT GOOD FRANCE HAS GROWN STEADILY SINCE IT WAS LAUNCHED IN 2015, AND THIS YEAR WAS CELEBRATED IN 150 COUNTRIES GLOBALLY.

Left: the Sofitel Sydney Wentworth’s ballroom converted into a cinema; Right: His Excellency Mr Christophe Penot, Ambassador of France to Australia, with his wife Yukimi.

he story is legendary in culinary circles, both amateur and professional: back in 1912, celebrated chef Auguste Escoffier launched the Dîners d’Épicure, serving the same French menu on the same day to diners in dozens of cities around the world. But the idea then fell dormant for over 100 years. In 2015 it was revived by the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Development, together with Alain Ducasse, and involved 1,500 chefs in restaurants around the world. Five years since, the event has expanded to three days every March, with 5,000 chefs on five continents serving a special French menu, many featuring specially sourced ingredients and limited-edition wines. The participating nations are staggeringly diverse: from Uruguay to Indonesia and Gabon to Greece. 64

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FOCUS ON SYDNEY In Sydney’s Sofitel Wentworth grand ballroom, Good France took on a novel air with a film screening preceded by a cocktail function. More than 300 travel trade guests gathered, sampling duck foie gras canapés, a cheese buffet and a Breton pancake stand among other delicate nibbles, and a medley of mini desserts: lemon meringue tartlets, opéra squares and mini cannelés Bordelais. His Excellency the French Ambassador, Mr Christophe Penot, launched the evening’s formalities by speaking of the connection that food has to French culture as a whole. Buoying the festive mood was the recent news that French tourism bookings from Australia were up 15 per cent, bringing extra smiles to the face of all Francophiles.

Next, in a live cross event, mastermind Alain Ducasse said: “There are a thousand ways we can celebrate France, and this brings us closer together. Let us not forget our roots.” Sydney-based French chef Guillaume Brahimi spoke more simply of the French passion for food, quipping: “At lunch, the French discuss what they ate the night before, what they are eating now and will eat at dinner. Then, they will talk about politics and women.” Several guests, including Caroline Brunel of French Travel Connection, General Manager Phil Logan of the Sofitel Wentworth, and Anthony Laver of Scenic Group, demonstrated the sabrage – the art of opening a champagne bottle by safely slicing off the tip, using a steel sabre.

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CINEMATIC AIRS The lights darkened and the audience settled in to a screening of new French film C’est La Vie, by Olivier Nakache and Eric Toledano, the award-winning writer-and-director team behind Intouchables. The ballroom had been transformed into a cinema, replete with red velvet curtains. The 90-minute feelgood comedy, about the chaotic unfolding of an elaborate wedding in an 18th-century château, fairly dripped with the food and savoir vivre references of the night. And, just like the quirky, surprising and satisfying ending of C’est La Vie, guests of this Good France event left with a champagnefuelled buzz, merry laughter and their arms filled with generous gifts.

Further Information Good France au.france.fr Top: Australia-based French chefs, Gabriel Gaté and Guillaume Brahimi, warming up the crowd with their food-world banter. Main: staff from Four Frogs Crêperie cook up their special brand of Breton crêpes.

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All that Cabaret RAZZAMATAZZ PARIS LANDMARK CABARET, THE MOULIN ROUGE, TURNS 130 THIS YEAR AND IS MARKING THE ANNIVERSARY WITH A SWATHE OF CUTTING-EDGE DINING, DANCE AND BEDAZZLEMENT. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

lthough hard to believe, Montmartre was once a small rustic village just outside the walls of Paris during the Belle Époque. It was dotted with festive guinguettes offering accordion music and cheap wine. 66

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In 1889, two entrepreneurs, Monsieur Oller and Monsieur Zidler, opened an establishment by the foot of the hill that allowed the French and international well-to-do to let their hair down with the flamboyant locals at champagnefuelled musical soirées. The Moulin Rouge, with its iconic red ornamental windmill, produced dancing shows by semi-professionals who soon became famous, thanks to Toulouse-Lautrec’s posters – La Goulue and Jane Avril among them. Word soon spread of a new style of dance, where the girls would cry out and kick high, showing their bloomers – the French Cancan. That dance quickly swept the world and became synonymous with France and cabaret.

As the cabaret’s reputation grew, it drew such artists to the stage as Mistinguett and her Music-Hall shows, along with Edith Piaf, Liza Minnelli and Frank Sinatra. In 2019, the Moulin Rouge celebrates its 130th anniversary, with its revue show still one of Paris’ top attractions.

WHAT TO SEE IN 2019 In production since 1999, Féerie was created by Doris Haug and Ruggero Angeletti, and choreographed by Bill Goodson. Its two years of development and €8 million budget have yielded large theatrical sets, stylish choreography and 1,000 stunning, sparkling costumes.

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Above left: Moulin Rouge in 1889, then known as Jardin de la Reine Blanche (photo © Moulin Rouge) and, right, dancers in red-feather headdresses (photo © Moulin Rouge /B Royer).

Féerie consists of four acts. ‘The Moulin Rouge Today and Yesterday’ is nostalgic and classic; ‘The Pirates’ is an exotic adventure set around a pirate boat anchored in Indonesia, featuring the famous sea python dance where a dancer swims in the aquarium with live pythons. ‘The Circus’ introduces cheerful, top quality circus acts, and ‘The Moulin Rouge from 1900 to…’ is a tribute to Parisian women through the ages, concluding with the iconic French Cancan. The costumes are among the biggest stars of the show, made by famous artisans. These include Maison Clairvoy, experts in dancing shoes and cancan boots, which also sells exquisite handmade town shoes (www. clairvoy.fr); and Maison Février specialising

in all things feather and often collaborating with top artists and fashion houses (www. maisonfevrier.fr). Atelier Valentin creates exceptional embroidered costumes for theatre, opera, cinema, circus and fashion (18 rue Notre Dame de Lorette - 75009).

FEAST FOR THE SENSES Shows are at 9pm and 11pm most nights. But why not make a night of it and book the 7pm dinner-plus-show with live orchestra? Executive chef David Le Quellec, renowned from various Michelin-starred restaurants including Taillevent and Le Cinq, serves haute cuisine with the freshest of produce. This is the first cabaret to offer a restaurant that appears in the prestigious Gault&Millau guide.

Perhaps start with pan-fried foie gras, seasonal vegetables and black truffles, and move on to oven-roasted pollock with diced pumpkin, chestnuts and Chinese artichokes. Finish with the royal gala apple and banana tarte tatin, topped with bourbon vanilla cream. There’s also a fantastic cheese platter bien sûr, accompanied by delicious French champagnes and wines. Then, what better way to digest than to sit back just as the curtain rises.

Further Information Moulin Rouge www.moulinrouge.fr MAGAZINE

Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot © Bal du Moulin Rouge 2019 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

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MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM

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So French So Sweet Gabriel Gaté Hardie Grant RRP $29.99 Popular French chef-turned-Aussie media personality Gabriel Gaté is known for his love of home cooking, and in his 24th book published to date, he once again turns his attention to desserts. So French So Sweet is billed as Gaté’s “love letter to pâtisserie, baking and sweet treats”. Each spread resembles a classic home journal, and features treasured recipes including cakes, tarts, scrumptious ice creams, mousses and refreshing sorbets. With a focus on fresh seasonal ingredients and home-style cooking, Gaté shows just how simple it is to create delightful classic treats that everyone will enjoy.

What we’re READING

Paris Bistrot Alain Ducasse Ducasse Edition RRP €35 Where do top chefs dine on their day off? In the bistros of Paris, of course! Such is the premise of chef Alain Ducasse’s delightful journey through 120 of Paris’ most authentic and unforgettable casual eateries. Start out with Laurent Brenta’s famous deviled eggs at L’Évasion as an appetiser, then feast on the acclaimed duck with olives at Allard. Finish in style with Sébastien Gravé’s not-to-bemissed French toast with mascarpone ice cream at Pottoka. Or graze your own trail through Ducasse’s carefully curated choices. Each featured bistro has its own signature dish, ensuring foodie travellers will have their itineraries set for years to come. English translation due in late 2019.

WHETHER YOUR IDEA OF COOKING IS SWEET, SIMPLE OR SPECTACULAR, THESE THREE VERY DIFFERENT TOMES WILL HAVE YOU FEELING VERY HUNGRY INDEED.

The Weeknight Cookbook Justine Schofield Macmillan RRP $30 Take the stress out of weeknight dinners by letting a well-stocked pantry, fridge and freezer do the work for you. Justine Schofield shows you how, with more than 100 simple meals based on everyday staples. Go-to meals proposed by the part-French chef and media personality include easy-cheesy spinach gratin; fish and potato cakes with tangy tartare; and a lemony Greek chicken and pea tray bake – all using an artful adaption of frozen and canned foods. Desserts haven’t been forgotten, with simple nostalgic sweets such as baked apple slippers, and a tropical rice pudding. Schofield’s recipes are easy, fun and totally real.

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Paris

State of the ART OVERWHELMED BY THE CHOICE OF ART DESTINATIONS IN PARIS? FEAR NOT – OUR LONGTIME CONTRIBUTOR, RUBY BOUKABOU, HAS JUST PENNED THE ULTIMATE GUIDE, COVERING LANDMARK ART MUSEUMS, STREET ART, SKETCH CLASSES AND MUCH IN BETWEEN.

ou don’t have to look far to find art in Paris. It’s everywhere – from the metro entrances to the architecture to the statues and installations in public gardens and squares, thanks to the legacy of over 400 years of leaders who have believed in the magic of art. Visitors will even find that the city’s dining spots are full of tasteful artworks. Paris’ cafés and restaurants are where people meet, network, relax, write, gossip and graze – and it’s been this way since the 17th century. Many establishments are magnificently decorated and like time capsules, while others are refreshingly inventive in design. Below are just three of the iconic spots featured in Ruby’s just-launched Art Lover’s Guide to Paris, which navigates Paris’ rich art history through to the vibrant present. Discover dozens of major and offbeat museums and galleries, then find tips on where to take a sketch class, buy an artwork, attend intriguing art events and meet the artists. 70

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Left: author and arts doyenne, Ruby Boukabou in Paris (photo © Bob Hughes); Le Kong offers sensational views and a design aesthetic courtesy of Philippe Starck (photo © Le Kong).

LE TRAIN BLEU Created for the 1900 Exposition Universelle, Le Train Bleu is an exquisite railway brasserie. Its decorations include canvas paintings portraying views from trains, travelling through Lyon, Monaco and beyond. www.le-train-bleu.com

CAFÉ DE LA PAIX Located opposite the Opera Garnier, the Café de la Paix opened in 1862 and boasts a sumptuous interior with bronze, marble, leather and gold. It has been frequented by Émile Zola, Guy de Maupassant and the Prince of Wales. www.cafedelapaix.fr/en/

LE KONG Elegant, chic and strikingly original, this top French-Asian fusion restaurant (snail dim sims, anyone?) offers sensational views of the Pont Neuf and Paris. With Philippe Starck in the design seat, expect an extravagant collision of colours, materials and prints. www.kong.fr

Further Information Art Lover’s Guide to Paris is available at bookshops worldwide. RRP $39.99. www.pen-and-sword.co.uk

Heroic Encounter with Captain America

Disney Stars on Parade

(1) Around 35 minutes from « Nation » station by regional train RER A.

Dumbo the Flying Elephant

©Disney

It’s all tantalizingly close to Paris(1) – perfect for a day trip. But if you feel like magnifying the magic, a night in a uniquely themed Disney® Hotel or blissful Disney Nature Resort is the dream ticket.

©Disney

From world-class entertainment, jaw-dropping attractions, incredible shows and heart-warming encounters with Disney Characters, Disneyland® Paris will give you a whole lifetime of magical memories. Wonder awaits around every corner in two equally majestic Disney® Parks: Disneyland® Park where fairytales take flight, and Walt Disney Studios® Park where blockbuster fun beckons. No matter the time of year, there’s an extraordinary seasonal event ready to sweep you off your feet.

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Provence

A private PARADISE THE FIVE-STAR TERRE BLANCHE HOTEL SPA GOLF RESORT IS NESTLED WITHIN A SEMI-TAMED PROVENÇAL WILDERNESS, A DELICIOUS ENVIRONMENT TO ENJOY WITH ALL YOUR SENSES. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

estled between the River Rhône and the Mediterranean Sea, Provence is the larder of southern France. Its farms, vineyards and orchards weigh down countless tables with their seasonal produce. The luxurious Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort sits within 300 acres of unspoilt rural landscapes here, blending cleverly with its surroundings. Ducks, pheasants and swans strut through the gardens and across the fairways, and bees buzz happily from flower to plant, producing the most mouth-watering honey for the restaurant breakfast table.

THE TASTE OF PROVENCE Terre Blanche has always catered to guests with a refined palate, and this year is further broadening its culinary delights. The extensive new wine cellar opened in April 2019 to showcase the leading wines of the region. Wine lovers are treated to tastings on demand, and also to sublime food and wine pairings prepared specially by the likes of Michelin-starred chef Philippe Jourdin. The five-star resort’s concierges are true connoisseurs of wine, and eager to share their passion with those fortunate enough to visit. With the resort’s blessing they have launched The Rosé Road for wine aficionados. It is an unrivalled opportunity to explore rosé wines from some of Provence’s most iconic châteaux, including the award-winning Whispering Angel at Le Château d’Esclans.

Right: Provençal wines, flavours and sunshine abound at the poolside Le Tousco. 72

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APPETITE FOR ADVENTURE But in Provence, the food is just as vital as the wine. If you are feeling energetic, join Terre Blanche’s new Bikes & Bites cycle tour through the vineyards and villages. Stops along the way include tastings at Daniel Marin’s fromagerie, specialising in sheep cheese, and at the olive grove of Le Château des Selves. Lunch in the medieval hilltop village of Seillans, or head into the kitchen to learn the secrets of Provençal cuisine from chefs at the Institut Gastronomie Riviera. Their hands-on cookery class is a delight. Terre Blanche is a short drive from the Riviera. The must-see day trip is to Grasse, however; less than an hour away. Grasse can rightfully claim to be the perfume capital of the world. The Fête du Jasmin takes place each year in early August; the streets are filled with floral floats, fireworks explode across the sky, and the perpetual scent of jasmine wafts on the breeze.

HEIGHT OF INDULGENCE However fabulous the sightseeing, Terre Blanche will always draw you back to its lush embrace. Golf World (UK) rated it as the Best Golf Resort in continental Europe in 2018, and it is no wonder the French amateur team uses it as their winter training base. Architect and Welsh professional golfer Dave Thomas’ signature bunkers feature in both the 18-hole Le Château course and in Le Riou, which is open exclusively to club members and hotel guests. And if your swing isn’t quite up to scratch, brush up your skills at the just-opened Terre Blanche Golf Academy. Once you’ve tired of golfing, retreat to the Terre Blanche Spa for an hour or so of calm and relaxation. The indoor pool is heated to 28 degrees Celsius and is bathed in natural light. Therapists deliver all-natural treatments, and there’s a quiet spot for yoga, Pilates or simply reading a book. Dine al fresco at Le Tousco, or treat yourself to a gourmet extravaganza at Michelin-starred Le Faventia. When it comes to bedtime, sink into a deep and dreamy sleep in one of Terre Blanche’s stunning suites or villas. The Mediterranean colours warm will your soul, and you’ll awake perfectly revived.

From top: Guests are treated to stunning valley views from the infinity pool; gourmet dining at Le Faventia; the 18-hole Le Riou golf course (all photos © Terre Blanche).

Further Information Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort***** www.terre-blanche.com/en MAGAZINE

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Savouring SERENITY BE IT ON THE BEACH WITH A REVOLVING DINNER PARTY OF ITINERATE TRAVELLERS, OR SHARING BITES WHILE LISTENING TO LIVE JAZZ IN PARIS, THESE FOUR HOTELS MAKE THE TABLE A DESTINATION. BY ADRIANNE YOUNG

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here is no better way to understand a place than to eat there. Have foie gras in Gascogne, and you’ll immediately understand why that Gascognian “r” rolls like a lusty growl. The heart-skipping patter of a Parisian’s conversation makes a feast out of an otherwise desultory prix fixe lunch in Paris. The following four hotels have also put their own accent on their food offerings, while simultaneously celebrating their region and history.

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LE COUVENT DES MINIMES couventdesminimes-hotelspa.com/en

LE COUVENT DES MINIMES When Le Couvent des Minimes – a convent built in 1613 – was remodelled in 2013, the transformation dramatically opened the space up to the light of Provence. The walls were soaked in breezy pastels and distinctive, regional textiles were brought in to soften the convent. While much of the building was updated to suit modern expectations, the stately staircases and 100-year-old terraced garden remain as tributes to the building’s 400-year history as a peaceful retreat. Intimacy prevails, with only 46 guest rooms and eight suites available. Stroll the herb-scented gardens and the evening air hints at a luscious meal of lamb and lavender at Le Cloître restaurant. There, chef

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JO & JOE The heart of any Jo & Joe location is the Happy Place, where its guests swap travel stories and cook for each other in the collaborative kitchen. A new concept from Accor, Jo & Joe is part hostel and part hotel, offering solo travellers, tribes of friends and groups the chance to break bread with a community of people – all at mate’s rates. At Jo & Joe Hossegor, located in between a marine lake and the sea, this community space sits right on the popular surf beach, serving cocktails and rosé with approachable charm. Townsters and Tripsters alike sit at communal tables, exchanging

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travel stories and insider information on shops and restaurants in town. Lush gardens surround the property, which sleeps 141 guests. Jo & Joe’s restaurant menu speaks an international language, offers a €6 breakfast buffet, ubiquitously French appetisers and plenty of vegetarian options – all at wallet-friendly rates. Squeeze in at one of the shared tables or cosy up to the bar, where easygoing bartenders make craft cocktails and pour French wine. In April 2019, Jo & Joe hosted its Paris open house – its second location in France, with other hotels opening soon in London, Budapest, Rome, Glasgow, Paris-Nation and Rio de Janeiro.

JO & JOE www.joandjoe.com/en

Above: dramatic Provencal skies reflected in the indoor-outdoor pool at Le Couvent des Minimes. Right: Jo & Joe is a compelling new offer from Accor, combining designer features with walletfriendly prices.

Jérôme Roy maintains the foundation of regional fare while layering the dishes with sauces and seasonings inspired by his travels to Seoul, Macao, and Singapore. The Michelin-starred restaurant is celebrated for Roy’s signature style of honouring the traditional with the inspired. Overlooking the pool, Le Pesquier bistro offers a colour-infused Mediterranean menu featuring plates of grilled fish over potatoes dressed in bouillabaisse jus. For an unforgettable tasting tour, reserve a wine and charcuterie pairing at Le Caveau, whose cellar of fine vintages showcases wines from the whole of the Rhône valley. Come away soaked with the warmth of sunny spots in the garden and a new perspective on dining in Provence. MAGAZINE

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HOTEL LUTETIA The iconic façade of Hotel Lutetia has been a beacon for Pablo Picasso, Josephine Baker, James Joyce (who wrote a part of Ulysses at the hotel) and many other notable creatives who sought refuge within the hotel’s elegant walls. Newly reopened in summer 2018, it now stands out as the only modern grand hotel on the Left Bank. Along with larger, updated rooms, Hotel Lutetia now features a creative mix of restaurants, bars, and lounges throughout its first floor. Most notable is the reopening of Lutetia Brasserie. Under the creative guidance of three-Michelin starred chef Gérald Passedat, the two-storey brasserie will return to its legendary splendour with a modern layout and menu. A major drawcard at the hotel is Bar Joséphine. The new jazz venue will feature live music, and contemporary cuisine will be themed around travel and sharing plates. Don’t miss the art deco Patio bar, where signature cocktails await to inspire the beginning of a novel or the end of the evening. Meet under the glass roof at Saint Germain, where the Parisian light softens the mood. Breakfast at the light-bathed L’Orangerie offers a quiet morning retreat to start a creative day in the Left Bank. 76

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The hotel also offers 184 guest rooms and 40 beautifully equipped suites, along with an Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Centre, indoor pool and more.

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HOTEL LUTETIA www.hotellutetia.com

Dramatic and artistic, Hotel Lutetia offers a Michelinstarred culinary experience.

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LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE Every morning at Les Sources de Caudalie begins with a distinct sense that life in Bordeaux is a refined celebration of the land and its people. From Vinothérapie® Spa treatments to guided wine tastings, the hotel honours the region in every sumptuous detail. Surrounded by vineyards, Les Sources de Caudalie is simultaneously a retreat from the world and the delicious centre of Bordeaux. Here, chef Nicolas Masse translates the purity and richness of the region with clarity inspired by the ingredients themselves. Taste the best of the season at the two-Michelin starred La Grand’Vigne, an intimate spot where the harvest-inspired menu is a balance of simplicity and sophistication. Enjoy the jovial ease at La Table du Lavoir, located in a former washhouse where winegrowers’ wives came to share local news (and an occasional beer). The bistro’s fire-roasted meats speak to the casual joy of the winery table. The dynamic wine bar Rouge serves a menu that vibrates with earthy energy, offering a fine selection of regional specialties and local wine. For those who wish to take home a sample of Bordeaux’s delectable delights, chef Masse’s

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LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE team welcomes guests to cooking school every Saturday morning. Accommodation is intimate and comfortable, with 40 rooms and 21 suites refurbished with all the modern comforts.

www.sources-caudalie.com Below: artworks are dotted throughout the hotel’s Grand Cru vineyards (photo © Les Sources de Caudalie).

The rustic yet luxurious spa setting (photo © N Baetens).

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BE ENCHANTED BY THE RIVERS OF FR ANCE Wander hazy hillsides in fabled towns, be seduced by the pleasures of regional kitchens, and let dreamy lavender fields, starry skies and terraced vineyards enchant you. These voyages of discovery weave varied journeys, where intoxicating history and staggering culture enhance your culinary adventure. Experience the best of France with the world’s leading river cruise line.

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Domaine des Etangs

Road LESS travelled

SET WITHIN SERENE CHARENTE COUNTRYSIDE, A SHORT DRIVE FROM CHARMING COGNAC AND ANGOULÊME, DOMAINE DES ETANGS IS ONE OF THE FINEST FOODIE RETREATS YOU’LL FIND ANYWHERE IN FRANCE. BY ADRIANNE YOUNG

Top: activities on offer include relaxing by the pool, touring the kitchen garden and boating on the pond; below: the Venus Castle Suite (photos © Domaine des Etangs).

omaine des Etangs is as much of a destination as it is an immersion into France au naturel. Here, regardless of the luxuriant cashmere upholstery and fine art, the wilderness of the Charente region in France’s southwest is what stands out most. Wild boar strut through the 100-year-old forest, and foxes hunt hares in the broad shoulders of the meadow. Inset into the property’s 1,000 hectares are six cottages, a four-suite lodge and the main château. Its seven rooms and suites are named after the stars, and appointed with exquisite touches of art and inspired by the stars. Throughout the property are equally heavenly opportunities to dine.

Chef Loïc Lecoin offers the very spirit of Domaine des Etangs at the Michelin-starred restaurant Dyades. His menu revels in what the day brings – be it spring’s finest lambs or autumn’s most coveted wild mushrooms. Chef Lecoin’s commitment to sourcing the very best of Charente began his first moment at the hotel, and it is apparent in every plate. Al fresco dining opportunities range from different barbecue options that suit the mood, to picnic baskets that can be enjoyed while boating on the pond or sprawling on the lawn, looking out at the herons and migrating birds. Dine at a bespoke table in the centre of the spiral-shaped vegetable garden for a meal grown just steps away. Guests staying in the cottages can even have meals delivered for nights in. Families travelling with children will be thrilled to see the playroom and the abundance of activities available to kids.

Further Information Domaine des Etangs domainedesetangs.com/en MAGAZINE

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Objets d’art

WHETHER YOUR PERSONAL TASTE IS MODERN, NOSTALGIC, EDGY OR QUIRKY, THESE DIVINE FRENCH HOMEWARES WILL BRING MORE THAN A TOUCH OF FRENCH STYLE TO YOUR TABLE.

Impress

Perrier-Jouët turns Art Nouveau

When top champagne houses strive to outdo each other with head-turning limited editions, the rivalry produces some eyepopping designs. To celebrate Maison Perrier-Jouët’s art-nouveau heritage and modern vision, Japanese glass artist Ritsue Mishima has created a particularly impressive piece. Her bottle case for Belle Epoque highlights the pale golden champagne with transparent organic swirls that mimic Murano glass. www.perrierjouet.com

Left: Perrier-Jouët’s exquisite Belle Epoque champagne bottle, created by Ritsue Mishima.

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Showstopper

Below: the 21cm Saucier dish by Le Creuset, perfect for the table.

If there was any brand that was emblematic of the ‘buy it once’ movement, it’s Le Creuset, with its lifetime warranty. It helps that the items are so beautiful you’d want to keep them that long, anyway. The latest to represent Le Creuset’s century of craftsmanship is the Fleur Design Series, featuring floral embossing on the base and lid. Like most Le Creuset products, it can be used in the oven, on the stove or with a flourish at the table. www.lecreuset.com.au 80

Above:graceful fluting and deep vessels are a hallmark of the 100 Points Wine Glass collaboration, by Lalique with James Suckling.

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Impeccable taste Acclaimed wine critic James Suckling has sampled an estimated 150,000 wines in his 30-year career, so when he awards 100 points to a wine, the community listens. The symbolism of his perfect score is well captured in Suckling’s 100 Points Wine Glass collection, a collaboration with luxury crystal brand Lalique. Each glass is a work of art, featuring a deep bowl and ribbed stem. There are 12 designs to choose from, including two styles of decanter, and glasses to suit the five main French wines. www.artdecoration.com.au

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Below: Natura cutlery by Sabre, featuring stainless steel blades and navy-blue acrylic handles.

Founded on a vision of changing the monotony of tableware, Sabre’s (www.sabre.fr) cutlery collection is also respectful of tradition: founder Francis Gelb comes from a family of goldsmiths. Each of the five collections is an expression in colour and materials, made possible

through such subtle arts as metal stamping, polishing, assembly and more. All that choice is possible at the point of purchase. Available at top Australian retailers, or through local distributor Table Manners, at table-manners.com.au.

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Left: the elegant and artistic Caractère collection by Revol.

Below: selection of indigo Bistronome table runners, placemats and apron by Jacquard Français.

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It might be a 300-year-old brand, but there’s nothing dated about the designer porcelain produced by Revol (www.revol1768.com). Whimsy and flair exude from these pieces, handcrafted at its factory using materials such as basalt black ceramic and cast-iron finishes. The artfully flat Caractère collection comes in several soft shades, including nutmeg, cinnamon and of course white (pictured). Available at top Australian retailers, or through local distributor Table Manners, at table-manners.com.au.

These stunning handwoven linens by Jacquard Français (www.le-jacquard-francais.com) for the table, kitchen and bathroom bring the textured elegance of jacquard into the modern home, with an array of colours and patterns. Go formal with dramatic red, or softly natural with green or charcoal-hued tablecloths, placemats, aprons and more. Available at top Australian retailers, or through local distributor Table Manners, at table-manners.com.au.

Sensory feast

Cutlery

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All stitched up

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Wine trails

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Field of DREAMS

PICK ANY SPOT ON THE FRENCH MAP, AND CHANCES ARE YOU’LL LAND IN WINEMAKING COUNTRY. FOLLOW THE WINE TRAILS ALL YEAR ROUND, AND LOOK OUT FOR THESE NEW ATTRACTIONS IN 2019. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

rance is synonymous with wine. Whether you browse a map or a wine list, they’re practically the same, as names such as Champagne and Bordeaux, Chablis and Saint-Emilion roll off the tongue. Across the countryside, winemakers find “Goldilocks zones” where the climate and soil type are perfect for vines. They’re also filled with visitor-friendly experiences.

FESTIVALS, EVENTS AND AWARDS TO WATCH The first French wines were grown in France in the 6th century BC, but with every passing vintage, winemakers have refined their craft. Bordeaux’s La Cité du Vin – the world’s largest and most comprehensive museum of wine – showcases the richness of wine’s history and culture. It also explores the latest scientific and market trends. There’s no doubt that the face of wine is changing: Gen X significantly outspends Baby Boomers on fine wines, while Millennials have become the largest group of wine consumers. They want to know where their wines are coming from and how they are made, which no doubt accounts for the rapid growth in wine tourism. France, of course, is leading the way in creating new wine tourism products. Burgundy will soon have its very own Cités des Vins, a trio of wine museums opening in Chablis, Beaune and Mâcon. Meanwhile, festivals such as Vinalia at the Gallo-Roman Museum in Saint-Romainen-Gal, and the Fête du Cognac in Charente, draw huge crowds of wine-lovers. Hôtel Chais Monnet has been transformed from a former Cognac warehouse into an extraordinary luxury hotel which will delight spirits aficionados and admirers of imaginative architecture alike. 82

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This page: vintage is a particularly eventful time (photo © Atout France); cognac barrels at the house of Camus, Cognac (photo © S Pailloncy/CRTNA).

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Cyclists sample Chavignol cheeses paired with wines from the appellation-controlled vineyard of Sancerre in Loire (photo © Atout France/Joël Damase).

Properties and events which break new ground in wine tourism are eligible for the Trophées de l’Œnotourisme, a prestigious industry award which will be awarded by Atout France and Terre de Vins magazine this year, for the first time. The award ceremony will take place in Paris, and the shortlist will provide ample travel inspiration for the year to come.

YEAR-ROUND WINE EVENTS Traditionally, wine lovers have come to France in autumn so their visit coincides with the wine harvest. Vineyards such as Château de Pommard in Burgundy offer guests an immersive harvest experience, and they

can enjoy a variety of wine-themed events. Highlights include the Hospices de Beaune charity wine auction in Beaune, the Champagne and You wine festival in Château-Thierry, and even the Médoc Marathon, where competitors run in fancy dress through the vineyards. Autumn can be crowded, however, and you’ll often find winemakers are busy with the harvest. At other times of the year, they will have more time to show you around their vineyards and explain their winemaking techniques. If you are a fan of Armagnac, remember that the distillation happens in winter, when you can combine the Alsace Wine Route with the Alsace

Christmas markets. In spring, the vineyards are verdant and the temperatures ideal for walking and cycling between the châteaux.

When the summer temperatures rise, the subterranean wine cellars are a cool oasis. The likes of Moët & Chandon in Épernay opens its doors for tours and tastings, and in summer there is surely no better place to be.

Further Information Visit French Wine www.visitfrenchwine.com/en MAGAZINE

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Guy Savoy Top of the LISTE THE UNDERSTATED PERFECTION OF GUY SAVOY’S CUISINE HAS GROWN HIM A STEADFAST FOLLOWING – AND MORE RECENTLY, A TITLE AS THE WORLD’S NUMBER ONE CHEF. BY ADRIANNE YOUNG

or the third year in a row, Guy Savoy and his eponymous restaurant has placed first on La Liste, the algorithm-based ranking system to crown all ranking systems. The French chef shares the coveted title of the world’s best restaurant with fellow countryman Eric Ripert, from restaurant Le Bernardin in New York. This comes as no surprise. Guy Savoy has the unique ability to constantly renew himself, coupled with utter respect for quality ingredients. For this chef, “there is more nobility in a fresh-picked cabbage than in a frozen lobster”.

FROM HUMBLE ORIGINS The chef owes this authentic culinary philosophy to his mother. A self-taught 84

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cook, she grew a small café in his native village of Bourgoin-Jallieu to a locally famed restaurant. Through cooking by her side, he became fascinated by the magic that transforms ingredients into something else entirely. He later completed his chef’s apprenticeship among the great names of French gastronomy, including at the legendary Maison Troisgros. Despite his worldwide recognition in fine cuisine, Guy Savoy identifies himself as an “innkeeper” with a love for locally sourced seasonal products and hospitality. This passion is visible not only in his main restaurant, with its three Michelin stars, red-carpet entry and prestigious location at the Hotel de la Monnaie, but also in his eagerness to create more affordable eateries. He has been a leader of the “chef’s

bistro” movement since its creation, and now counts several restaurants in his name (see side box). Savoy also consulted on the menus of hip hotel chain Mama Shelter, serving updated classics such as the delightfully traditional French favourite, macaroni and ham, and roasted farm chicken with homemade mashed potatoes. He claims not to have a career plan, focusing on each step at a time and looking no further than tonight’s service. To him, “cooking is a craft that affords the expression of individual sensitivity and personality, a craft which elicits boundless enthusiasm”. Further Information Guy Savoy www.guysavoy.com/en/

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Celebrated chef Guy Savoy at his flagship Restaurant Guy Savoy, left: and the restaurant’s elegant interiors, right (photos © Laurence Mouton).

TWO PARISIAN MASTERPIECES At the chef’s flagship Paris restaurant, Restaurant Guy Savoy, diners can expect an impressive yet warm welcome as they enter the building. The sober slate grey walls bring the focus onto the white-clothed tables, bespoke tableware and fine artworks. Guy Savoy is an enlightened amateur connoisseur of modern art, which is showcased in the impressive collection displayed in his restaurant. This includes sculptures and paintings by Fabrice Hyber and a rotating

collection on loan by François Pinault. On the menu, the focus is on the “strength of flavour through preservation of the natural tastes and textures of the produce”. Notable dishes include the signature artichoke soup with black truffle and layered mushroom brioche, and simple harmonies of land and sea such as the mussels and meadow mushrooms. Meanwhile, at Atelier Maître Albert (a rotisserie tucked away next to Notre Dame), the focus is more modern. Seated

by the impressive period fireplace, under centuries-old wood beams, diners can enjoy the bold flavours of roasted meat, fish or poultry accompanied by gratins and other side dishes. Guy Savoy also operates Les Bouquinistes (a modern bistro in Paris’ sixth district), Le Chiberta (a Michelin star-rated restaurant by the Arc-de-Triomphe), and a sister Restaurant Guy Savoy in Caesars Palace, Las Vegas.

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Retreat

The great ESCAPE

ULTRAMODERN ARCHITECTURE PAIRS WITH REVERED CLASSICAL ARTFORMS AT ROYAL CHAMPAGNE HOTEL & SPA, WHICH IMMERSES GUESTS IN THE REGION’S MOST LUXURIOUS EXPERIENCES.

journey through Épernay means unforgettable vistas of vineyardclad hills, interrupted only by the serene Marne river and a scattering of ancient villages. It’s nearby, in the tiny village of Champillon, that you’ll find the stunning Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa. The former coaching inn, once frequented by French kings, sits atop an enchanting valley view. In 2018, it unveiled an overhaul that reinvents the site as a contemporary edifice of stone and glass, offering several choices in wine-tasting, fine dining and spa treatments. Chef Jean-Denis Rieubland, who until recently headed up the kitchens at Hotel Negresco, Chantecler and others in Nice, has created a simple and exquisite menu featuring fine local flavours at the establishment’s two restaurants. The first, Le Bellevue, faces the Marne Valley and the setting sun. Its elegant bistro-type menu includes dishes such as sea bream ceviche with avocado chips, and a lentillon of Champagne paired with golden cod. The second is the Michelin-starred Le Royal, set beneath a gold-leaf ceiling with handblown glass lights, all subtly offset with fine art. The gastronomic menu here includes an heirloom tomato dish combined with a creamy burrata and basil sorbet; sweetbread flavoured with chorizo; and espelette peppers with chilli langoustines, nestled around a croquette of calf’s head. Those lucky enough to stay overnight can retreat to one of just 47 rooms and suites, all classically appointed and bathed in natural light. If you can tear yourself away from the divine surrounds, the hotel staff will lend bicycles for some vineyard exploration, or arrange any number of intimate local experiences.

Further Information Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa royalchampagne.com/en MAGAZINE

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Saint James Paris

Dinner DATE IT’S NO SECRET THAT FRANCE’S BEST BOUTIQUE HOTELS OFTEN HOST AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANTS, AND THE SAINT JAMES PARIS IS NO EXCEPTION. OUR LONGTIME PUBLISHER AND A PARIS REGULAR, PETER BERMAN, STOPS BY TO CHAT.

aris in winter has a charm not rivalled by many northern cities. There’s the milder temperature for one, the buzz of culture and the allure of all those lights, beckoning from cobbled street to vibrant shopwindow and candlelit bistro. I’m visiting Saint James Paris on a snowy evening in February, its velvety interiors and stately parlours especially beguiling against the outside chill. I’m here to meet the hotel’s new Executive Chef, Adrien Brunet, and am greeted warmly by the general manager, Madame Laure Pertusier. Or is she Catherine Deneuve? A bright smile, and I’m suddenly reminded of a time several years back – when I did in fact find myself seated beside the celebrated actress, at a Paris restaurant. History oozes from the very lobby of this hotel, built on the grounds of Paris’ first aerodrome, where Montgolfier balloons departed in the 18th century. The imposing 1892 mansion was converted in 1991 by the Bertrand family, which also holds the Relais Christine hotel. It was redecorated in 2008 by US interior designer Bambi Sloan in a crazy chic style that gives a nod to trompe l’oeil, with its converging graphic lines, striped upholstery and wild animal prints. My mission, of course, is to explore a different type of art – the culinary skill of young Mr Brunet. A self-proclaimed culinary adventurer, Brunet worked with Michelinstarred chef Jean-Luc Rocha at CordeillanBages, and then as his deputy here in the hotel. Aged just 26, he took over the reins here in 2019 as Executive Chef.

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Opposite: Elegant Saint James Paris lies a short distance from the Arc de Triomphe; This page, top: Chocolat Guanaja, with Isigny crème fraîche and cherry sorbet; Below: The intimate library-bar, adjacent to the restaurant and perfect for peoplewatching (photos © Saint James Paris).

Brunet has made it his mission to create a new menu every month, which he and the team then rigorously deconstruct and modify. As a new-generation leader, Brunet is also big on mental wellbeing. Team member arrives at work in an unhappy state of mind? Team member is told to come back when they’re feeling better. “A dish suffers if the chef is unhappy,” Brunet explains. His dishes are grounded in French tradition, and modernised with flavours like ginger and coriander. “The best recipes come from a common base, like roast chicken with potatoes, or classic tarte tatin,” Brunet explains. “But with different marinades, the meal unfolds as you wander from one new flavour and texture territory into another.” I ask Brunet to create a meal for me that is a total surprise. “I’m not fond of sheep’s eyeballs, but I’ll leave it to you,” I add helpfully. The seven-course adventure that Brunet’s team conjures begins with a flow of astounding entrees, each complemented with Saracen country bread and delicious Roscoff onion butter, which I consume throughout the meal like a hungry peasant. The parade of entrees ends and a glass of 2012 Château Margaux arrives, its round fragrance conjuring up the main event. I’m served a melting filet de boeuf, crunchy at first bite in reduced red wine, and resembling a feast by a Renaissance painter. Snow swirls outside as the fireplace crackles its own ambience. A palate-cleansing pre-dessert is served: coconut mousse, playfully paired with a lemon-and-passionfruit sorbet. I rest for a moment, contemplating the rollicking gastronomic finale. This is a ganache of chocolate with sponge cake underlay, tarragon ice-cream and just a hint of lemon, a triumph in dessert theatre. The head sommelier, François Le Boulanger – who had regaled me with details of all the fine wines throughout – stops by to joke that he will have to drive me home. Unlike the true professional who swills, sniffs and sips, apparently I have swallowed every last drop.

Further Information Saint James Paris www.saint-james-paris.com Saint James Paris is a member of the Relais & Chateaux group www.relaischateaux.com MAGAZINE

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Arras

Dawn of a NEW DAY HISTORIC ARRAS, KNOWN AS THE SITE OF AN IMPORTANT BATTLE IN WORLD WAR ONE, IS ALSO CHARMING AND BRIMFUL WITH ATTRACTIONS – MANY OF THEM BELOW GROUND.

Top: illumination on Arras’ reconstructed Grand Place. Below: dramatic architectural entrance to the iconic Wellington tunnels (both photos© Cituation et Ensemble).

ess than an hour by train from Paris, historic Arras offers contrast at every turn. On the one hand, this city of 40,000 inhabitants is renowned for its two magnificent Flemish baroque squares and its belfry, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On the other hand, belying Arras’ charming streets is its sober past as the site of an epic battle in 1917, with the damage so great that nearly 80 per cent of the city later needed to be rebuilt. The extraordinary Grand Place and Place des Héros that modern-day visitors gaze upon are in fact identical reconstructions of the original structures. It’s just one aspect of an architectural mix that spans tradition and modernity, including the Art Deco styles so typical of the post-war period. MAGAZINE

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Top: local flavours (and beers) at the underground La Cave des Saveurs (photo Pascal Brunet). Below: the remarkable Jean and Denise Letaille Museum, Bullecourt 1917 (photo © Cituation et Ensemble).

DOWN TO THE GROUND Go a little deeper – literally – and you can experience first-hand the city’s heritage as part as the Western Front. The Carrière Wellington is an underground museum where visitors can tour part of the Wellington Tunnels, which played a major role in helping British and Commonwealth forces hold Arras during the war. Descend 20 metres below the city’s streets in a glass-fronted lift, and you’ll discover a scene brimful with wartime memories. Nearly 24,000 soldiers hid here before leaping into assaultmode during the Battle of Arras on April 9, 1917. A memorial wall in the garden here bears the names of the infantry and cavalry units deployed during the battle. Every year, a dawn ceremony is held at 6.30 am, the very hour the Battle of Arras was launched. The haunting Arras Memorial, located in the Faubourg-d’Amiens Cemetery, commemorates nearly 36,000 people who died nearby and have no known grave. The Arras Flying Services Memorial, dedicated to nearly a thousand airmen who lost their lives, is located within this cemetery as well. Take the opportunity to visit the citadel of Arras, a UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the 17th century, and which has recently added a treetop climbing course to its premises (see below). Thirty minutes from Arras, Bullecourt is another must-stop during your visit. For Australians, its symbolism is akin to Verdun for the French or Vimy for Canadians. More than 10,000 Australian soldiers and 7,000 British soldiers fell here during the two battles of April and May 1917. Discover the history of these battles in detail at the Jean and Denise Letaille Museum, with its impressive collection of battlefield relics. The hundreds of weapons, personal effects and photos are showcased against modern scenography and films to powerful effect.

FOODS, STAYS AND SHOPPING A more indulgent side to Arras awaits in its cobbled streets and squares, brimming with intimate cafés, bars and shops. Local crafts include Blue Arras, delicate hand-painted porcelain by Christelle Perrier, but you’re equally likely to find original ready-to-wear fashions and an enticing array of edible gifts. Foremost among these is Coeur d’Arras, a gingerbread-and-honey biscuit with candied fruit available at Maison Thibaut on the Place des Héros. A savoury cheese version of the biscuit 92

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Top: street performance at the Fête de l’andouillette. Below: view from the belfry of Grand Place (both photos © Pascal Brunet).

is also available. Candied fruit also features in the dark chocolate Heart of Arras, and a more quirky edible souvenir is the Arras chocolate rat. The rodents are symbolic of Arras because the French for ‘rat’ sounds much like the town’s pronunciation, ‘Arra’. But your underground experiences in Arras won’t just be restricted to the war memorials. Popular below-ground eateries include La Cave des Saveurs (www.lacavedessaveurs.fr), La Faisanderie (www.restaurant-la-faisanderie. com) and Le Comptoir (www.lecomptoir-arras. com), which are all about brick vaults, regional produce and hearty cuisine. Extend your night out with an apéritif at one of several historic hotels – or even stay the night. The central Hotel de l’Univers (www. univers.nejeti.fr) is a converted 17th-century Jesuit monastery, while the Golden Horn (www. lamaisondhotes.com/welcome-to-the-cornedor/) is an elegant 18th century mansion built on the foundations of a 13th century house. Its original cellars remain intact. Conveniently located opposite the station is the Mercure Hotel, offering comfortable modern rooms at excellent rates. (www.accorhotels.com/fr). MAGAZINE

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Top: tree-climbing adventure route at Cit’Loisirs (photo © Office de Tourisme Arras Pays d’Artois). Below: Entrance to the Arras Citadelle (photo © Pascal Brunet).

CHEERS! The Hauts-de-France region is renowned for its brewing expertise, and since Arras is one of its biggest cities, small-batch breweries abound. You’ll find a wonderful menu of local artisan beers available at hip little bars including Marcel’s, Comptoir de Fred (www.aucomptoirdefred.com) or Le Cellier des Arcades (arrasbieres.com). The latter even sells a range of bottled artisan beers, so you can stock up for the next leg of your French travels.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS Beyond historic Arras lies a wealth of active attractions in a beautiful region that offers countless outdoor choices. Rent a bike, and ride the nearby Great War Cycling Trail in Artois. The 29-kilometre trail is studded with 16 historic sites relating to World War One. For insight into navigating these or any other facets of Arras, the Northern France Experience App offers a wonderful guided walk through the city (see the tourism website for details). The region also has several golf courses, including the Golf d’Arras resort, offering two 18-hole and 9-hole courses and a year-round calendar of events. Its new bed and breakfast option, Le Pavillon, places modern comforts within the traditional setting of its beautifully restored manor building (www.arras-golf-resort.com). Thrillseekers can try tree-climbing back on the lush grounds of the citadel of Arras, in a clever adaptation of the historic site. Cit’Loisirs (www.cit-loisirs.fr) has 11 family-friendly ropeladder and climbing courses of different levels, all at tree height. Don’t miss the 210-metre zip line that partly traverses a deep moat, or the Tarzan jump, always secure in the knowledge that you’re safely harnessed in all-new climbing equipment. A thoroughly enjoyable blend of the historic and the outdoors.

Further Information Arras Tourist Office www.arraspaysdartois.com 94

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100 years on, FRANCE remembers what it owes AUSTRALIA,

and invites all generations to visit memorial sites, including the magnificent

Sir John Monash Centre for peace, contemplation, and commemoration.

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Club Med

The MOUNTAINS are calling

OFFERING THREE SENSATIONAL PROPERTIES ACROSS THE FRENCH ALPS, CLUB MED PLACES VISITORS RIGHT IN SKIING AND FOODIE HEAVEN. BY JODIE OAKES

wishing down silver mountains, steaming in hot tubs and breaking bread over gooey fondue – Club Med certainly knows how to deliver a dream experience of the French Alps. Being one of the original purveyors of the all-inclusive ski holiday, Club Med continues to set the bar when it comes to tailor-made escapes for all ages, making it a perfect place to stay and play for families. Charged with thrills, chills and lashings of après fun, no destination captures the art of skiing quite like the snow-capped splendour of the French Alps. Club Med offers endless opportunities to make mountain-fresh memories, with peaks that seem to puncture the sky, perfectly formed pistes and a choice of cosy chalets and decadent domains.

GOURMET GOODNESS But beyond the sophisticated ski resorts, the French Alps are famed for their gourmet goodness. Where cold winds blow you will find a food culture that runs as deep as the dramatic valleys – hitting that sweet spot between rustic chic and cosmopolitan comfort. The bounty of an all-inclusive ski holiday means that Club Med invites you to graze in glory all day. Waking up in the wonder of your Valmorel Chalet, you can start the day gazing at glowering peaks with breakfast delivered right to your door. Load up on those flaky, hot buttered croissants – you are sure to need your energy for the slopes. After a morning of carving tracks, a hearty lunch should certainly be on the cards. Those staying at the Val Thorens Sensations can linger over a picnic lunch with friends at the Epicurious Gourmet Lounge, designed by double Michelin star chef, Edouard Loubet. You can nibble on a sublime selection of nutty cheeses, chewy baguettes and wonderful wines to accompany this choice array. 96

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Resort guests can savour local flavours every day, with dishes such as this fondue.

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From top: Club Med places a medley of ski runs at each resort’s doorstep; families are particularly well catered to, with a long list of child-friendly touches.

APRÈS SKI STYLE There is no finer time of the day than the enchanting hour called après ski. When the sky starts to tinge pink and your body feels taken to the edge, this is the moment to sink down in bliss. From frothy hot chocolate to sweet crepes and hot cider, served with vista views from the al-fresco terrace The Cerfs and The Céleste, this moment perfectly encapsulates the alpine experience. Dinner is when the Alpine cuisine truly comes to life. The tartiflette is one of the most beloved dishes in the mountains, offering diners the chance to dig into golden potatoes baked until bubbling in a wheel of creamy reblochon cheese, and crispy lardons. For a more delicate dinner, La Laiterie Gourmet Lounge offers mountain tapas for intimate wining and dining.

A RIOT OF RUNS FOR ALL AGES Regardless of your family’s ski level, Club Med will match you with the right runs, with more than a dozen properties scattered across the Alps. Run rampant down the infamous slopes of Val d’Isère, where a ski school and bounty of blue, green, red and close to two dozen black slopes entice you to conquer Espace Killy. Or go for glory at the Grand Massif Samoëns with its mega mountain views, plethora of pistes, and ski-in, ski-out facilities.

One of the pure pleasures of Club Med’s all-inclusive offer is that you’ll get maximum contact with the mountains. Included in the price are ski passes and professional lessons, kids clubs and lessons for ages 4 to 17, amazing wining and dining, and more. Expect to enjoy a fully enriching experience of the cathedral-like splendour of the stunning French Alps.

Further Information Club Med www.clubmed.com.au/d/The-European-Alps/ France MAGAZINE

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Chamonix

Let it SNOW IT’S HARD TO BEAT THE FRENCH ALPINE TOWN OF CHAMONIX FOR ITS SHEER CHOICE OF SKI RUNS, OUTDOOR ADVENTURES, INDOOR PAMPERING AND ALPINE CUISINE. BY NICOLAS TOMASOVIC

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or a vacation that puts you on top of the world, look no further than Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. At over 4,800 metres above sea level, Mont Blanc – literally, White Mountain – is Europe’s highest peak west of the Caucasus. The mountain overlooks charming Chamonix, the perfect base camp for your journey into the French Alps. This town hosted the first ever Winter Olympics and remains a thrillseeker’s playground, with plenty of mountaineering and winter sports available. But it also has a warmer, less intense side, complete with tasty French breakfasts, fresh mountain air and the perfect blend of outdoor recreation with European leisure.

ALPINE CUISINE AND COUNTRYSIDE ADVENTURES Nothing works up an appetite like a brisk hike through the Alps. Or are you more of a skier? Regardless, you’re spoiled for choice in Chamonix when it comes to cuisine. Enjoy local favourites such as snail cassolette, at the Grand Hôtel du Montenvers, followed by a grilled raclette or steamy fondue from the resident master cheesemaker. All the while, soak in the view from a dining area that’s perched some 2,000 metres above sea level. Take lunch on the terrace at Le Panoramique Mer de Glace, which overlooks the awe-inspiring glacier that shares its name, then satisfy your sweet tooth with a warm, rich afternoon dessert. The fare will remind you of grandma’s home cooking – if your grandmother is a Savoyard woman with an exquisite palate and generous spice rack, that is. While Chamonix lies on the French side of the Alps, the range itself sits on the border with Italy. So, it’s only natural that a little Italian fare makes its way through the passes. This is on full display at Plan Joran, where local flavours meet Italian influences on a changing weekly menu.

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THE FULL PACKAGE Why shop around for stays and passes, when you can organise every detail with local operator Mont-Blanc Natural Resort? Their website is like one big, efficient shopping cart, where you simply check They even have homemade pizza, if you’re looking for something to take back with you to the hotel – or the slopes. You’ll also have plenty of opportunities for pairings and tastings during your dining excursions in Chamonix, whether you prefer a Savoie white or Italian red.

CABLE-CARS, ICE CAVES AND GLASS ROOMS

the four services you need help with – ski passes, accommodation, gear rental and activities – and browse a tailored list of choices. The site’s search engine will even let you know what discounts you qualify for. You’ll want to check back with the website regularly, too, to view the live snow reports, webcams and other practical news.

Aside from winter sports and good foods, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc offers several other standout experiences. For starters, you can test your tolerance for heights at the one-of-a-kind lookout point, Aiguille du Midi. Named Step into the Void, the lookout offers just that as you peer down on the valley below through a clear glass floor, 3,842 metres above sea level. The ride there, which uses one of the highestreaching cable cars in the world, is included in many of the ski passes offered by the Compagnie du Mont-Blanc resort. The Mer de Glace glacier is another popular attraction and can be reached by a cosy little red railway train. Make sure to get up close and personal with this staggering slab of ice by taking the hike through the ice cave that cuts through its core.

Further Information Mont-Blanc Natural Resort www.montblancnaturalresort.com/en

Top: charming night scene at the village of Chamonix (photo © OT Vallée de Chamonix/ Morgane Raylat); below: Chamonix offers 157 kilometres of ski runs (photo © J Bozon).

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New Caledonia

Sea to shining SEA

NEW CALEDONIA IS THE ISLAND PARADISE YOU’VE DREAMT OF, A DAZZLING ARCHIPELAGO WITH SPECTACULAR BEACHES, IMMENSE CAVES AND DEEP TROPICAL FORESTS. BY PAUL ARNOLD

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oday’s New Caledonia is a mesmerising blend of Kanak culture and European influences which are present in the arts, architecture, traditions and cuisines. French flavours and flair can be experienced at restaurant tables, market stalls and the food and drink festivals celebrated throughout the year. If you’re hankering for a touch of France in the South Pacific you won’t have too far to travel. This tropical getaway is one of Australia’s nearest neighbours, just over two hours from Brisbane, under three hours from Sydney and less than four hours from Melbourne.

EATING WELL IN PARADISE New Caledonia’s capital and largest city is Nouméa, a cosmopolitan place sitting on a peninsula facing the attractive bays and beaches of the world’s largest lagoon. This lagoon and its barrier reef – the world’s second-largest – encircles two-thirds of New Caledonia’s main island. Nouméa bursts with cultural offerings, from museums to art galleries and arts centres. Browse paintings, sculptures and photographs representing Kanak culture at the Tjibaou Cultural Centre. View Kanak and Oceanian art at the New Caledonia Museum and tour the Maritime Museum of New Caledonia for insights into the islands’ maritime past.

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Left: seafood feast at Ouvéa (photo ©Monique Ceccato); right: French-inspired cooking at Au P’tit Café in Nouméa (photo © Marine Reveilhac).

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Food is a big deal in Nouméa, and its cuisines are inspired by the different communities living there, including Melanesian, Asian and French. It is a delicious hub of haute cuisine, with dozens of restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets. Highlights include the Latin Quarter, where chefs play with French classics giving them New Caledonian twists. Each year, the capital hosts a number of food festivals, showcasing mouth-watering gastronomic treats to relish. One of the first events on its culinary calendar is the Giant Omelette Festival which takes place during the last weekend of April. It is held in Fayard Park, in the town of Dumbéa, just outside Nouméa, and sees the creation of a giant omelette. This annual tradition commemorates the

story of Napoleon Bonaparte’s visit to the town of Bessieres, where he ate an omelette and enjoyed it so much he ordered a giant one to be made for his troops. The festival also features shows, attractions and rides such as a merry-go-round. Two months later, during the last weekend of June, comes a joyous celebration of the art of cheesemaking. The French Cheese Festival serves up more than 100 varieties of amazing cheeses from all over France. Bastille Day on July 14 is not strictly a food festival, but it’s a great excuse to indulge in French culinary traditions. Towards the end of the year, it’s the turn of Underground Gourmet, a food festival across several Nouméa locations, that features local chefs using local produce to show off Kanak cuisine.

The New Caledonian capital has a packed diary of sporting and cultural gatherings, in addition to its fabulous food festivals. Try to plan your vacation to coincide with any of the following: April: New Caledonia International Triathlon – typically attracts more than 200 international athletes. The event starts with a 1.5-kilometre swim at the lagoon at Anse Vata, followed by a 40-kilometre bike ride up to Sainte Marie Bay and then a 10-kilometre run along Anse Vata Bay. June: New Caledonia Ultra Trail – the archipelago’s longest trail race covers 110 kilometres in three stages. July: New Caledonia Transcal Trail – a fun, exciting and challenging race for all ages that winds through some of New Caledonia’s most beautiful scenery. August: New Caledonia International Marathon – one of the biggest dates in New Caledonia’s sporting calendar is an Olympic-level qualifying event for the French Championships. The longdistance race passes through Nouméa’s bays. Mégarando biking event – a series of mountain bike races for experienced cyclists, amateurs and beginners of all ages. September: South Pacific Classic New Caledonia – a PGA Tour Australasia event at Tina Golf Club. Francofolies – two days of non-stop partying French style with music from internationally renowned artists. MAGAZINE

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ESCAPE TO THE BUSH Continue your New Caledonia culinary journey in Bourail, a small town on the west coast of Grande Terre, about a two-hour drive from Nouméa. This is known as the cowboy country of New Caledonia. During one weekend in August, it hosts the annual Bourail Agricultural Fair, the archipelago’s biggest farming and crafts fair. Sample a delightful range of local produce and watch livestock competitions, log-cutting demos, rodeos and more. While you are here, explore the town’s rural surrounds known as brousse or bush. Hike or cycle through Giant Fern Park, a vast expanse of tropical rainforest. As you make your way through the dense and lush terrain, try and spot endemic bird species. Among those you might see are the Goliath imperial penguin, the Caledonian warbler and the cagou. Follow the small waterfall trail in Farino. During your trek from cascade to cascade you’ll experience the region’s rich diversity of plant life, from rainforests to savanna and manicured gardens. 102

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Clockwise from above: Kanak performance (photo © Sebastien Lebegue/NCTPS); snorkelling in the New Caledonia lagoon (photo © Pauline Massé/ NCTPS); paddle-boarding in Hienghène on the island’s north (photo © GHNC).

DREAMY ISLAND GETAWAYS Swap the rustic charms of this part of Grand Terre for the delights of the five islands that border the mainland. Whether you’re wandering through the coconut plantations of Ouvéa, lying on the silky-smooth beaches of Lifou, wildlifespotting on the Isle of Pines or wandering through the markets on Maré, you’ll discover each one has its own unique appeal. Use your island-hopping excursion as an excuse to savour local produce. While on Lifou, try a rich bounty of sweet and savoury products made with vanilla. The flavouring is known as the brown gold of Lifou and there are hundreds of producers and growers across the island. Meanwhile, on Maré, delicious avocados are the stars of the show. Every April, farmers travel to the lands of the Nece Tribe to celebrate the fruit and show off the latest harvest at the Avocado Festival. There are avocado-based gourmet specialties to try and a raft of activities to enjoy including nature trails, singing, dancing, snorkelling, boat trips and a sport fishing competition. While the spotlight is firmly on avocados, other fruits and vegetables can be sampled and purchased from exhibitors’ stalls, including yams, passionfruit, bananas and taros. Whichever parts of New Caledonia you visit, you can be sure of a warm welcome and exciting and flavoursome cuisines, all amid some of the most beautiful scenery you’ll ever set your eyes upon.

Further Information New Caledonia www.newcaledonia.travel MAGAZINE

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Tahiti and her islands

KISSED by the sun

FAMOUSLY FAR-FLUNG IN SAPPHIREHUED SEAS, THE ISLANDS OF TAHITI OFFER A FEAST OF FLAVOURS FOR DISCERNING TRAVELLERS. BY JODIE OAKES

Top: tropical aperitif at Bora Bora; below: Tahiti signature dish poisson cru at Tikehau (all images this spread © Tahiti Tourisme).

he birthplace of the original overwater bungalow has long conjured images of brilliant blue skies, tropical flowers in bloom and endless archipelagos to explore. From the depths of the dazzling lagoons to the fertile soil, The Islands of Tahiti offer an open-air pantry of edible delights. The beautiful blend of Pasifika culture and French finesse delivers plenty of tantalising dishes across the archipelago. From Papeete’s fabulous food truck scene to romantic seafood suppers at fine dining restaurants, Tahiti provides a myriad of dining experiences to suit, no matter what your mood or budget. Many French chefs are lured to Tahiti, bringing their haute culinary expertise to be lifted and brightened by the tropical mood of the South Pacific. French and Polynesian influences can be seen across these sun-kissed islands, from French restaurants to roadside Polynesian eateries, and the influence of European tradition is everywhere – especially when it comes to flaky pastries and French baguettes. On the island of Rangiroa, the very first atoll vineyard boasts open cellar doors for visitors to taste its delights. Everywhere, authentic flavours abound.

SIGNATURE DISHES AND SPOTS TO DINE One of the most popular dishes within the Islands is the perfectly reimagined ceviche-style plate of Poisson Cru. A favourite of locals and tourists alike, freshly caught tuna is marinated in lashings of fresh lime and coconut milk until it melts on the tongue and is served with fresh cucumber, tomatoes and spring onions. Poulet fafa is another fine example of traditional Tahitian cuisine: plump chicken cooked in the traditional underground oven known as a the ahima’a, simmered in coconut cream with spinach, spices and garlic before being wrapped and served in taro leaves. 104

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Garden restaurant on the island of Huahine.

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Catamaran in the waters off Taha’a.

While Tahiti is bedecked in luxurious resorts and signature spots to dine, true foodies will fall hard for the simple delight of the food truck scene. Down by the ferry terminal in the capital of Papeete, the caravans known in the French tongue as Roulottes are one of the best spots for trying a mash-up of amazing cultural tastes. French crêpes come groaning beneath the weight of Nutella and smashed sweet banana, steak frîtes transport you to the borderlands north of Lille, chao mein sizzles and provides a reminder as to how close to Asia you are, and swordfish kebabs dunked into sticky garlic spiced marinade is perfect with crisp and bitter local Hinano lager. Moorea is another spot jam-packed with cosy beachfront eateries delivering authentic barefoot living so you can leave the shirt and tie at home. Snack Mahana is perfect for those days when you want to lunch beside the lagoon and go gaga for fresh shrimp swimming in garlic. For a languid 106

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dinner watching the locals feed the stingrays, you can’t go wrong with Te Honu Iti on the shore edge of Cooks Bay, particularly when in the mood for classic French savoir faire. Also on Moorea, Lilikoi Garden Café serves divine Polynesian lunches from the window of a food truck that sits within a tropical garden setting. Sit on casual seats and savour colourful red tuna carpaccio, vanilla-infused sweets and other dishes, surrounded by a private paradise. For a true insight into the food of the islands, Lilikoi offers an innovative program of food tours, too.

UPSCALE EATERIES AND RARE RESORTS Of course, Tahiti doesn’t fall short of epically placed restaurants and designer dining experiences. Pulling in the honeymoon crowd with the promise of private sunset suppers on white sand atolls is a specialty served up by Bora Bora’s Four Seasons

Resort. Along with decadent dining options, the Four Seasons is one of the finest spots for perfect pampering in paradise. From gold-flecked spa treatments to those mountain view overwater bungalows, killer cocktails at the sunset bar, and even a resident marine biologist to introduce you to the blue lagoon, this resort is heaven sent. The Brando is another bucket list spot for those wanting the finest French Polynesia experience imaginable. Sitting just 48 kilometers north of Tahiti on the daisy chain islands called Tetiaroa, the Marlon Brando owned resort hits the epitome of luxury. Majestic villas come with infinity pools and personal bicycles, lagoon tours invite endless play, and dining is truly at the top of its game. With Les Mutines overseen by Michelin three-star chef Guy Martin, guests can sip and swirl courtesy of the climate-controlled wine cellar, and taste delicate Parisian paired Polynesian offerings along with an exciting new vegan menu.

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Local flavours at a roulette, or food truck stall; below: fine dining takes on French nuances in Tahiti.

GOURMET ACTIVITIES BEYOND THE PLATE Polynesian culture is a joy – and for guests who want to take more than a souvenir back home, a slice of culinary knowledge could be just the pearl of wisdom. Many resorts offer cooking classes, often passing on the ancient knowledge of how to perfect the ubiquitous Poisson Cru and of course the famous Mai Tai, which also has its origins within the Islands of Tahiti. No matter what tickles your tastebuds while in this dream destination, from raucous feasts with fire and suckling pig to intimate picnic suppers for two on deserted strips of sand , the Islands of Tahiti truly are a tantalising experience for all the senses.

EXPLORING THE ARCHIPELAGO With 118 islands to choose from (motus in the Tahitian tongue), guests can let their cares be swept away on any of the numerous pristine beaches, or can spend days snorkelling, exploring and diving from one island to another. A bountiful bucket list destination, it’s no wonder that Tahiti is the exclusive poster child for the far-flung mystery that makes up French Polynesia. Visitors have no less than five groups of gorgeous islands to choose from – the Society Islands, Tuamotu Archipelago, Gambier Islands, Marquesa Islands and Austral Islands. You could disappear into the rugged mountains, kayak and snorkel in crystal blue lagoons, lounge in lavish fivestar resorts, and discover the beating heart of pure Polynesian culture through song, dance and the art of taste.

Further Information Visit Tahiti Tourisme tahititourisme.com.au MAGAZINE

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Shine

A Provencal LUNCH

WHAT: FASHION-FORWARD LUNCH HOSTED BY LUXURY PROVENCE SPA, LE COUVENT DES MINIMES, AND BEAUTY BRAND L’OCCITANE.

Below left: Fabien Piacentino General Manager of the Couvent des Minimes, happy on his first trip to Australia. Below: Air France Country sales Manager Quentin Voss and Chris Hamill MD DriveAway Holidays. Where: Sofitel Wentworth Sydney Who: Guests included L’Occitane brand ambassador and longtime Australian presenter, Sami Lukis; representatives from both brands; and various fans from the French travel world. Highlights: The event brought together two classically southern French brands, with hand massages on offer from L’Occitane featuring its fragrant plant-based products. Flavours on the summery menu included Barramundi fillet with artichokes and barigoule jus, and for dessert, an Aix en Provence Calisson, orange and orange blossom tartlet with lavender crème brûlée.

Below left: Sami Lukis and Julie Chan check out the benefits of L’Occitane’s divine creams. Below: Digby Warren of Journeymasters, enjoying a hand massage.

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INTRODUCING THE S.S. BON VOYAGE All-inclusive luxury on the rivers of France. After a meticulous eight-month renovation, we are pleased to unveil the S.S. Bon Voyage, built with a singular purpose – to immerse you in French culture, art, wine and cuisine. The S.S. Bon Voyage features four spacious new suites, four dining and beverage venues and the spectacular Soleil Deck boasting the only infinity pool on the rivers. Join us on your choice of three gastronomic journeys: the eight-day Brilliant Bordeaux, 15-day A Portrait of Majestic France, or 22-day Ultimate France.

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Chic en Clay

SOIRÉE Roland-Garros WHAT: A GALA DINNER CELEBRATING FRENCH SPORT, TENNIS AND ART DE VIVRE, TO GET THE WORD OUT TO THE MILLION-PLUS AUSTRALIANS WHO VISIT FRANCE ANNUALLY – AND ENCOURAGE EVEN MORE TO DO SO. Where: Sofitel Wentworth Sydney Who: VIP guests included tennis legend Ken Rosewall; Francophile, historian and former Wallaby Peter FitzSimons; and media personality Catriona Rowntree The ballroom also brimmed with sponsor representatives: from Roland-Garros, Lacoste, Emirates, Paris Region Tourist Board, Paris Tourist Office, Accor, Moulin Rouge, L’Occitane, Tefal, La Maison du Thé, Perrier, Moet & Chandon, Christian Louboutin, Guest Apartment Services, GJ Food, and Restaurant Benoît by Alain Ducasse Highlights: The tennis-centric evening had all the excitement of an event at the Roland-Garros stadium, including a sports-chic fashion show by Lacoste. Paris was also a focus of the night, and guests were treated to performances by Moulin Rouge dancers and acrobats. The opportunity to savour a menu created by Alain Ducasse was a first for many in attendance. From top: Nicolas Lefebvre, Director of Paris Tourist Office, and Christophe Decloux, MD of Paris Region, with Catriona Rowntree; The Trafalgar team with Club Med’s Rachael Harding, right; Sofitel Sydney Wentworth executive chef Boris Cuzon, right, with the Alain Ducasse brigade.

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Clockwise from top left: John Veitch, Lorraine Sharp and Derek Morris; Atout France Director, Patrick Benhamou; Mike Tomalaris and SBS group raise their glasses; Tim Harrowell of Emirates and Bridie Commerford, VP Marketing & Communications Australia, Accor; Guillaume Brahimi and TV chef Justine Schofield; The Atout France team gives the Eiffel Tower a facelift; Moulin Rouge acrobat Willy Weldens performs the highlight of his act.

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Mood

A night in BORDEAUX Above right: Aude Boucher of Atout France with the Chloé gift bag; below left: Dominique Portet, Regine Marchand and Celine Boute; below right: Etihad’s Alan Glover with Cinzia and Andrew Burnes of Helloworld Travel.

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WHAT: A SPECTACULAR CELEBRATION OF BORDEAUX FLAVOURS, INCLUDING SIX TOP-RATED WINES AND A MULTICOURSE MENU FEATURING FOIE GRAS AND PAYS BASQUE ESPELETTE PEPPERS.

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Where: Sofitel Melbourne on Collins Who: Top representatives were also present from the event’s multiple sponsors: Accor, Air France, Etihad Airways, Pessac-Léognan, Lillet, Chloe, Louboutin, Riedel, Vintec, Vittoria and APT, as well as officials from the Nouvelle-Aquitaine and Bordeaux tourist boards. The night also welcomed officials from Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux and the Commanderie de Bordeaux. Highlights: Bordeaux wines were the star of the show, with several of the region’s Grands Crus fine wines from Pessac-Léognan served throughout a gourmet three-course dinner. New members were also inducted as wine aficionados into the Commanderie de Bordeaux.

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P O R T R A I T Top four images, clockwise from left: Nicolas Martin, managing director of Bordeaux Tourism, with Steve Reynolds of APT and Michel Durrieu, chairman of Nouvelle-Aquitaine Tourism; Michel Durrieu chairman of Nouvelle Aquitaine Tourism; the classy Atout France team including Sarah Multingner, Anais Leloup, Claire KaletkaNeil, Aude Boucher and Sarah Elfassy; APT product manager Sarah Latimore with Atout France regional manager Patrick Benhamou.

Lower four images, clockwise from left: Lillet and Cognac cocktails from NouvelleAquitaine Tourism; Commanderie de Bordeaux; Clive Scott and Laura Anderson; Air France and the stars Guilhem Laurans and Quentin Voss.

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WHAT: AN EVENING RECEPTION IN THANKS OF THE SHARED REMEMBRANCE AND STRONG TOURISM LINKS BETWEEN AUSTRALIA AND FRANCE, CO-HOSTED BY ATOUT FRANCE AND THE FRENCH EMBASSY.

Clockwise from top left: Jane Rutter, flautist and Knight of the French Order of Arts and Letters; Suzy Wolanski, Phil Wolanski, Jules McGrath and Simon McGrath, COO Accor Asia Pacific; Frédéric Leturque, Mayor of Arras & Chairman of Hautsde-France Tourism; Peter FitzSimons; Catriona and Heather Rowntree.

Where: Sofitel Wentworth Sydney Who: VIP guests included Frédéric Leturque, Mayor of Arras, and Joseph Zimet, head of the French First World War Centennial Mission. Other notables included author Peter FitzSimons AM, and media personality Catriona Rowntree. The event was supported by: Australian Government Department of Veteran’s Affairs, French Embassy, Mission du Centenaire French WW1 Centennial Mission, Somme Tourism, Arras Tourist Office, Hauts-de-France Tourism, Wellington Tunnels, Memorial to the Battle of Arras, Groupe Hotelier Grand Amiens, G.H.Mumm, La Maison du Thé, Accor Hotels and Air France. Highlights: World-renowned flautist Jane Rutter regaled the guests with an intimate performance. Acknowledging Australia’s role during World War One in France, French children read out several historic letters written by Australian Diggers. MAGAZINE

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Justine Scholfield photographed by Jeremy Simons

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Justine Schofiield

Things I LOVE about france

WITH HER FRANCOAUSTRALIAN BACKGROUND, POPULAR TV PRESENTER AND CHEF JUSTINE SCHOFIELD GAINED A FRENCH JOIE DE VIVRE AT AN EARLY AGE, ALONG WITH A ‘ROLL UP YOUR SLEEVES’ WORK ETHIC. SHE HOSTS CHANNEL TEN’S EVERYDAY GOURMET, RUNS A SUCCESSFUL CATERING BUSINESS AND WRITES VARIOUS COOKING COLUMNS.

Your favourite Paris restaurant? Even though it is now becoming a bit touristy, I still adore Le Clown Bar. The foie gras and duck pithivier is unbelievable.

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French dishes best enjoyed in France? There are so many. Tête de veau (veal’s head), many of the incredible meat terrines, the ham… Oh, and the baguette – it just is the most wonderful thing when eaten in France!

French dishes best suited to Australia? The flavours of southern France really resonate with our climate – especially the use of olive oil, tomatoes, herbs and fish.

What about wine? Organic wines are definitely on the rise in many French restaurants I visited on my last trip.

Interesting food trends in France right now. Sleek, specialty coffee stores, and the revival of the classic French bistro. They’ve been given a hipper twist by showcasing smaller menus that are driven by local produce.

Memorable French food experiences? My uncle and aunt live near the Bassin d’Arcachon, home of the most amazing oysters. Sitting in their beautiful garden, with my cousins, an apero and a huge seafood platter, is my idea of heaven.

... and your favourite regional restaurant? La Tupina, Bordeaux. Everything is cooked over an open fire, very seasonal and traditional in concept. The duck fat potatoes cooked in an old cauldron are a must.

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Favourite French buys? Cookbooks, cooking equipment and French linen, including tablecloths.

France-related projects you’re working on? For the last three years I’ve worked closely with Tefal, the leading French cookware company. Last year I was lucky enough to go to their factory, in a little town called Rumilly near Lyon.

Something you’re looking forward to now. Winter is my favourite time to cook the classic French dishes I grew up with, especially with my mum Françoise. We love to cook heavy old-school dishes such as poule au pot and cassoulet.

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