Rendez vous en France 2018 by Rendezvous

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PERRIER-JOUËT, THE ALLURING CHAMPAGNE Since its foundation in 1811, the champagne house Perrier-Jouët has crafted elegant, floral wines of rare finesse with a Chardonnay hallmark. The elegance of the cuvees echoes that of the Art Nouveau anemones adorning the Belle Epoque bottle and offers moments of pure delight and beauty. www.perrier-jouet.com

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From the Editor

WITH PREPARATIONS UNDERWAY FOR FRANCE TO HOST THE 2018 RYDER CUP, 2023 RUGBY WORLD CUP AND 2024 OLYMPICS, THERE’S NEVER BEEN A BETTER TIME TO ENJOY WORLD-CLASS SPORTS EVENTS IN FRANCE.

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From left to right: Atout France Sydney team members Marion, Sophie, Alice, Charly, Anais, Sarah, Marc and Charlotte

s this issue of Rendez-vous en France hits the newsstands, sports enthusiasts will already have spent sleepless nights watching the various triumphs and surprises of the French Open tennis championship, and the three-week Tour de France cycle-fest. Next on the big events calendar is the 2018 Ryder Cup in September, hosted just outside Paris on the newly overhauled golf course of SaintQuentin-en-Yvelines. Coming up too are the 2018 Gay Games, 2019 FIFA Women’s Championship and 2023 Rugby World Cup. Experience-hungry travellers can do more than spectate. We’ve devoted this issue to all things active, from cycling and sailing in Normandy, to following in the footsteps of the Anzac diggers in northern France, and skiing on powder snow in Chamonix. A spate of exciting new hotel and restaurant openings is proof that France never sleeps when it comes to beguiling visitors: clearly, the experience economy still trumps the sharing economy. We know that the one million-plus Australians who visit France every year will agree, and perhaps 2018 is the year you’ll get to see for yourself. Bon voyage.

Patrick Benhamou Director Atout France in Australia France Tourism Development Agency patrick.benhamou@atout-france.fr

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Take part in cooking classes designed to immerse you in the delights of French gastronomy with Scenic Culinaire.

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2019 FRANCE RIVER CRUISING As the only fully Australian owned and operated fleet traversing the rivers of Europe, since 2008, Scenic’s custom-designed Space-Ships have set the benchmark in 5-star luxury travel. In the South of France and Bordeaux, on board features include a dedicated cooking school, Scenic Culinaire, and the first Salt Therapy Lounge on Europe’s waterways. Scenic Culinaire offers immersive courses in the culinary wonders of the Rhône, Saône and Bordeaux regions. The custom-designed area features a dedicated cooking station, fresh produce fridges and a live camera and screen so you won’t miss a thing. Complementing the experience, in select ports you can even Shop with a Chef, sourcing fresh French produce at a local market, before heading back to the ship for your class. On our South of France itineraries there’s plenty on offer for all interests. The range of activities include truffle tasting in Tournus, a cooking demonstration at the renowned Paul Bocuse culinary school in Lyon and a cycling tour through the vineyards of the Beaujolais region.

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98 52 RENDEZ-VOUS EN FRANCE 2018 DIRECTOR OF PUBLICATIONS Christian Mantei EDITOR Stephanie Oley SUBEDITOR Paula Towers PUBLISHER Peter Berman CONTRIBUTORS Paul Arnold, Ruby Boukabou, Sally Hammond, Susan Gough Henley, Gretchen Holm, Sophie Ibbotson, Michelle Lollo, Jodie Oakes, Ian Packham, Adrianne Young Cover photograph© Jose Villa Photography Printed in China ATOUT FRANCE AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND Atout France Australia and New Zealand France Tourism Development Agency Editorial, Production and Sales Team: Patrick Benhamou, Sophie Almin, Sarah Elfassy, Anais Leloup, Charly Bongiorno, Marc Humphries, Marie Ramond, Lina Krief, Emma Louis Tramoni L5, 25 Bligh Street Sydney NSW 2000 Australia T: +61 2 9231 5243 F:+ 61 2 9221 8682 www.france.fr

Become our Facebook fan www.facebook.com/AtoutFranceAU Follow us on Twitter twitter.com/AUNZ_FranceFR

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| HERITAGE & HISTORY |

16 Champagne Drinking stars

81 Normandy Land of lyrical light

23 Burgundy Savour every drop

86 Somme Legacy of the heroes

27 Taillevent Fit for a duke

34 L’Occitane Beautiful to the core

91 Roland-Garros The fashion set

41 Ponant Grand Cru

98 Paris Shake it off

100 Ryder Cup Iron men

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50 Nouvelle-Aquitaine The good life

106 Chamonix Licence to thrill

52 Bordeaux The perfect blend

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| ACCOMMODATION |

110 Cabaret Wild child

65 Hyatt Private retreat

113 Monaco Take your breath away

66 Relais Christine Urban oasis

118 Nice Sunkissed in the south

74 Terre Blanche In the swing of it

120 Antibes Juan-les-Pins Sounds like summer 125 Tahiti Paradise found

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Above: crowds at the Champagne Festival in Epernay (photo © Ville d’Epernay); right: celebrations at Fêtes Johanniques (photo © Carmen Moya).

Champagne

Drinking STARS THE REGION’S NAME IS SYNONYMOUS WITH JOYOUS CELEBRATION, AND THIS YEAR TOO, CHAMPAGNE BRIMS WITH ACTIVE AND INDULGENT PURSUITS FOR THE VISITOR. BY IAN PACKHAM 16

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ust 150 kilometres east of Paris and easily reached by rail and road from the capital, the Champagne region is a haven for active travellers. Centred upon the towns of Reims and Epernay, its attractive landscape of gentle hills, winding rivers and forest habitats are dotted with points

of interest. Villages nestle amid the vineyards that have made this part of France famous across the globe. The rolling hills boast an extensive network of cycle paths and marked hiking routes, and the rivers and lakes provide the perfect setting for getting active in and on the water.

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OTHER CHAMPAGNE EVENTS

EPERNAY – CHAMPAGNE’S HEARTLAND Though the gothic cathedral at Reims has witnessed the coronation of 25 kings of France, it is Epernay that is known throughout the world as the ‘Capital of Champagne’. A 30-minute drive or train ride from Reims, the small town lies at the meeting point of the three most important areas of champagne viniculture. Here you’ll find the esteemed kilometre-long Avenue de Champagne, a UNESCO-inscribed World Heritage Site. This so-called ‘Champs-Élysées of Champagne’ is an architectural gem dotted with châteaux from the Belle Époque period, and lined with champagne houses. They offer tasting sessions and tours of some of the 110 kilometres of underground chalk-cut cellars, storing 200 million bottles of bubbly under perfect conditions. A year-round destination, Epernay is particularly festive in summer. At the end of June, the town and surrounding villages celebrate life in the region with the Champagne Festival (www. lachampagneenfete.fr). The packed three-day programme includes concerts, tastings, exhibitions and cellar tours. Even newer than the Champagne Festival is the soaring journey visitors can now take into the skies above Epernay on a tethered hot air balloon, giving breathtaking views over the town and vineyards. Or get up close and personal with the vines for yourself, by renting bicycles from Epernay’s tourist office and following one of the many cycle paths that crisscross the region. A popular route is the 6-kilometre ride to Hautvillers, the original

The colourful Fêtes Johanniques in early June celebrates the heroic 15th century mission of a young Joan of Arc, to return the deposed dauphin to Reims and have him crowned Charles VII in 1429. home village of 17th-century monk Dom Perignon, reputed to have exclaimed that he was ‘drinking stars’ when he ‘discovered’ bubbles in his wine. For visitors to Epernay later in the year, the second weekend of December sees the Avenue de Champagne transformed by the Habits de Lumiere, or ‘Dressed in Lights’ festival (habitsdelumiere. epernay.fr/). Stroll down a bustling scene of champagne bars and street theatre, before admiring a spectacular fireworks display at the evening’s end.

Top: welcome to Epernay (photo © CRTCA); cycling through Champagne vineyards (photo © CRTCA).

Visitors can enjoy a medieval-style market and the Great Royal Parade, re-enacting the procession to Reims Cathedral of Joan of Arc and the future Charles VII, accompanied by over 800 figures in historical costumes. See Reims Tourism for details (www.reimstourisme.com). The prestigious 48 Hour European vintage car rally (www.48heures.com/en) pulls onto the cobbled Renaissance-era streets of nearby Troyes from 7 – 9 September. A phenomenal spectacle, it sees 400 classic vehicles arrive from all over Europe for parades and drives through the Champagne countryside.

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Above: old-world elegance at Domaine les Crayères (photo © horizonbleu). Right: chef Philippe Mille and team (photo © Aethion).

DOMAINE LES CRAYÈRES Domaine Les Crayères (lescrayeres.com/ en) is one of Champagne’s most magnificent attractions for those seeking five-star elegance and a traditional fine dining experience. The former home of the Polignac family, the château is located in the heart of Reims, within lush landscaped gardens spanning seven hectares. On arrival you will receive a warm welcome and impeccable levels of service. You can’t fail to be enveloped by the atmosphere of old-world elegance and refinement that Les Crayères prides itself on offering its guests, whether they are here to attend a seminar in the meeting room, or spend the weekend in the lap of luxury. Voted one of the most charming hotels in Europe by Travel + Leisure magazine in 2014, Les Crayères offers 20 perfectly appointed rooms and suites. Each are filled with unique decorative flourishes, offering classic French style and all the amenities a modern traveller might expect. With an extensive wine list (featuring more than 600 champagnes alone) and menus for all occasions, it’s no surprise Les Crayères boasts

an award-winning combination of hospitality, cuisine and champagne. The head chef is Philippe Mille, honoured with two Michelin stars for his work at Le Parc, the gastronomic restaurant at Les Crayères, as well as the Meilleur Ouvrier de France, or ‘Best Craftsman in France’.

The menu uses locally sourced produce whenever possible. Diners can choose from favourites that include Chalandray duck foie gras poached in Rosé Champagne, Roscoff lobster, and desserts such as pear with hibiscus wine and zesty orange meringue. MAGAZINE

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The chalk cellars of Champagne Georges Vesselle in Bouzy; brothers Eric and Bruno Vesselle, second-generation makers of the Georges Vesselle champagne brand.

EXCLUSIVE IN AUSTRALIA Champagne Autréau and Champagne Jacquinot & Fils are available in Australia from United Cellars (au.unitedcellars.com), and Champagne Georges Vesselle and Domaine Henri Giraud are available from Wineorder (wineorder.com.au).

TASTING NOTES Just five minutes’ walk from Epernay’s Avenue de Champagne, the Jacquinot & Fils estate (www. champagne-jacquinot.com ) was founded in 1947, but traces its history back to the time of the French Revolution. Today the vineyards cover 17 hectares and the business is run by the founder’s grandson, Jean-Manuel, who offers cellar visits in English for €20 including a tasting of two champagnes. Just outside Epernay, the Henri Giraud Domaine (www.champagne-giraud.com) is located in the grand cru village of Aÿ, and is currently run by the 12th generation of the Hemart-Giraud family. With a motto of ‘excellence’, the domaine promises champagnes matured in locally sourced oak barrels, and zero pesticide residues. On the hills above Champillon to the north of Epernay, the Autréau domaine (champagneautreau.com) has been producing champagnes since 1670. Today, seven different blends are produced from grand cru and first cru vineyards that carefully balance traditional and modern tastes. The cellars are open for tastings in English (by reservation), with prices starting from €14.50 for two premier cru tastings. Created in 1951, Georges Vesselle 20

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(www.champagne-vesselle.fr) is located in the village of Bouzy. The 17 hectares of vines are predominantly planted with Pinot Noir, and tasting sessions are offered free if followed by a purchase. Bruno Vesselle also runs a chambre d’hôtes, le Clos du Mont Rouge, whose four guest bedrooms have views over the vineyard www.closdumontrouge.fr.

Further Information Champagne-Ardenne Tourism www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk

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DISCOVER FRANCE LIKE A LOCAL THROUGH THE WINDOWS OF A TRAIN Imagine the allure of a place so stunning that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recognised as a top destination for travellers around the globe. This is France: with its rolling vineyards, fine food, and incomparable art. The high-speed TGV connects Paris to over 200 cities within France, such as Avignon, Dijon, Lyon, and Bordeaux. Wherever your adventures take you, the train will take you from the centre of one city to the centre of the next, allow you to indulge in food and beverages in the bar/buffet car or create your own on-board picnic, and arrive ready for a full day of frolicking. The Eurail France Pass provides you with extensive travel on the national rail network of France, as well as fabulous discounts. Or individual train tickets may be better suited to your needs, ideal for itineraries that include fewer cities. An Authentic European Experience Awaits

ÂŠRail Europe SAS, French travel company, RCS Nanterre 401 714 993

www.raileurope.com.au/visit-france

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The iconic landscapes of Burgundy (photo © Alain Doire/Burgundy-FrancheComté Tourism), and (below) its wines (photo © Stuart Pearce).

Burgundy SAVOUR every drop INCREDIBLE WINES, DELICIOUS CUISINE, A RICH CULTURAL HERITAGE WITH UNESCO LISTINGS AND A TERRIFIC ART DE VIVRE ARE JUST SOME OF THE REASONS TO VISIT BURGUNDY. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

nly 1 hour and 40 minutes by train from Paris, and 1 hour 30 minutes from Lyon, you could potentially make Burgundy a day trip. But since there’s so much to see (and more specifically, to taste), it’s best to take at least a few days to savour this beautiful region of France at a leisurely pace. MAGAZINE

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VINEYARD HIDEAWAY Five-star Hostellerie Levernois (www. levernois.com) is the perfect place to stay and experience the charms of the Burgundy region, thanks to its passionate owners, Jean-Louis and Susanne Bottigliero. The property is 10 minutes’ drive from Beaune and is a beautifully converted Bourgeois house with 22 rooms and four apartments. A member of Relais & Chateaux, it’s fringed by a large park with centuries-old trees, and the Bouzaize river running right through it. Chef Philippe Augé heads the Michelin-starred restaurant, where you can enjoy sensational traditional cuisine with contemporary touches and over 1,200 fine wines to choose from.

BEAUNE: HISTORICAL GEM Situated along the Grands Crus Road is the adorable town of Beaune. Here you can discover world-famous vineyards such as Pommard, Meursault and Montrachet. Understandably, many of the town’s activities revolve around wine. There are wine tastings, a wine auction (in the iconic Hôtel Dieu), traditional cellars to see and gourmet restaurants to dine at – always accompanied by the region’s best wines. A highlight of Beaune’s weekly calendar is its traditional produce market, held in the town centre each Saturday. For deeper immersion in the region’s flavours, book a tour with Marjorie and Kendall, chefs at Cook’s Atelier. They will guide you through the market to meet their favourite suppliers, and help you select the best of Burgundy for your cookery classes and lunch.

TEE OFF IN BURGUNDY No matter what your handicap, the Golf de Beaune-Levernois (golfdebeaune.com) should not be missed for its stunning wine country location, along the Grands Crus de Bourgogne route linking Beaune and the Climats de Bourgogne vineyards. The course offers lush grounds of impeccable green lawns, calming lakes (nine of them), weeping willows, pines, lavender bushes and dozens of other local plants and birdlife. It’s not going to be hard to concentrate on your game with all the oxygen you’ll be inhaling, sweet with the scent of the neighbouring vines. Amateurs will be pleased to know that the course welcomes beginners for a quick pitch-andputt 9 holes (1,312 metres). It’s a great occasion to try out your swing in a relaxed atmosphere. And as for the seasoned golfers, a complete 18 holes (6,063 metres) offers a technically challenging course with the possibility of advanced tee-offs. 24

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Opposite, from top: Golf de Beaune-Levernois; Beaune’s famous 16th century hospice; vineyards near Beaune (photos © Burgundy-Franche-Comté Tourism).

Got a member of your party not interested in playing? No problem, they can stroll around the pretty countryside or enjoy the renovated club house with its bar and restaurant, where you can join them after your game. It’s a win-win situation. As for the prices, luckily there are no exorbitant joining fees – you can simply take a day or week pass for around €50.

DIJON: A GOURMET’S DELIGHT Dijon, the capital of Burgundy is most famous for its wonderful wines. You’re probably thinking: and mustard, right? Indeed, the city became a centre of mustard-making, first, apparently, in 1336 for King Philip VI’s table, but becoming common much later, around 1856. To honour the local viticulture and gastronomy, a sprawling new facility, dubbed International City for Wine and Gastronomy, will open in 2019. In the meantime, there are plenty of great attractions: visit the Climats de Bourgogne vineyards, UNESCO heritage-listed since 2015. Check out the traditional winepresses at the Château du Clos de Vougeot, and be wowed by the views from Vosne-Romanée and its magnificent vineyard, Romanée-Conti. For a bird’s-eye view over the historic town centre, climb the 316 steps of Tour Philippe le Bon, where the visitor experience includes a glass of fine Burgundy wine.

From top: cycling near Bouchard Pere & Fils Le Montrachet vineyards; relaxing atop the Tour Philippe le Bon in Dijon (photo © OT Dijon/Rozenn Krebel); golfing at BeauneLevernois.

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The Tour de Bourgogne à Vélo® encompasses several shorter routes, such as the 36-kilometre Voie des Vignes from Beaune to Santenay-Nolay, passing vineyards and canals alike (photos © Burgundy-Franche-Comté Tourism).

ON YOUR WHEELS What better way to appreciate the countryside air and visit the best of the region’s attractions than by bicycle? Not only is Burgundy a great place to explore on two wheels, but things have been made easy for travellers with thousands of kilometres of dedicated bike trails. These are easy to follow, and even have accommodation stops along the way so you can spread out a trip over any duration. There are several very delightful trails that will have you riding along canals, by vineyards, and châteaux. The Charles the Bold trail follows in the wake of the Dukes of Burgundy (no less!), and crosses Burgundy from north-east to south-west. There’s also the Tour de Bourgogne à Vélo® Trail and the Grande Traversée du Morvan (GTM). The former covers a distance of over 800 kilometres, and allows you to visit a wine cellar, a château, a chapel and a small village. You’ll ride down the Canal de Bourgogne between Migennes and Dijon, crossing the 26

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Tonnerrois vineyard, more châteaux and another UNESCO site – the Fontenay abbey. One of the oldest and most intact Cistercian abbeys in Europe, this magnificent edifice was founded in 1118 by Saint Bernard of Clairvaux and demonstrates a clear link between Romanesque and gothic architecture. For the more adventurous, the GTM, aka the Parc du Morvan Mountain Biking Site, you’ll discover the slopes with 330 kilometres that pass the Great Lakes, cross cute villages and deliver incredible views. When you need to wash your bike or take a rest, just look out for the GTM signs. Pop into the tourism office or visit their site for detailed information on the various trails, bike hires and accommodation. en.bourgognefranchecomte.com/cyclingitineraries

Further Information Burgundy-Franche-Comté Tourism www.bourgognefranchecomte.com

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P O R T R A I T Clockwise from top left: crab with remoulade sauce and dill (photo ©Taillevent Paris); poularde de Bresse (photo © Maison Weshoot); the famous cellar at Le Taillevent (photo ©Taillevent Paris).

Feast

Fit for a DUKE

SINCE FLINGING OPEN ITS DOORS IN 1946, LE TAILLEVENT HAS BECOME NOTHING LESS THAN AN INSTITUTION IN THE CAPITAL’S CULINARY SCENE. IT’S RECENTLY BEEN REVAMPED, WITH A CLASSIC FRENCH MENU TO MATCH.

longtime Paris icon, Le Taillevent is every inch the Michelin star you would expect. The lavish home of fine food has undergone a recent facelift and engaged chef Alain Solivérès as its culinary lead. Guests are treated to the bright flavours of haute cuisine, paired with beautiful Bordeaux wines. The restaurant is split into several sections, each one artfully dressed in a nod to its former life as the private residence of the Duke of Morny. The Trianon Room evokes demure elegance with its 19th century frescoes, fresh flowers, muted tones and crisp white linen. The Lamennais

Room invites warm conversation beneath woodpanelled walls. The dark and moody cellar is worth visiting, to admire the exceptional choice of 1,800 bottles from the diverse vineyards of over 16 countries. Of course, an expert sommelier is on hand to guide even the most skilled connoisseurs through the dense catalogue. Traditional tastes are served with a contemporary twist at Le Taillevent. Select from signature à la carte dishes such as its elegant crab with remoulade sauce, served with dill fleurette cream dashed with lemon. The rich risotto cuisses de grenouilles dorées is another showstopper, especially when followed by the bright

clementine and orange dessert accompanied by biscuit mirliton and yuzu sorbet. The extravagance continues with Le Taillevent’s seasonal selection of black truffle dishes. The black truffle, celery and foie gras en feuille à feuille is a delicate dance of texture on the tongue, and the poularde de Bresse (with truffle butter) simply melts in the mouth. Suffice to say, this is French finesse at its best.

Further Information Le Taillevent www.taillevent.com

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GET SOME INSPIRATION ON WHERE TO LEARN, DINE, STAY AND PARTY IN FRANCE DURING YOUR TRAVELS IN 2018-2019.

Cruise

Uniworld

Bakers, managers, hotels and cooking schools alike can benefit from Baguette Academy’s courses.

Set sail down the Seine aboard one of Uniworld’s sparkling ships. The river cruise company is making waves with the latest addition to its fleet – the S.S. Joie de Vivre. This luxurious boat

Learn

Tour

Flaky pastry fans and lovers of crusty French bread can now study the craft of savoir-faire baking at the Baguette Academy. Educational and recreational, this multilingual online course is dedicated to delivering French baking expertise to all, at any time, 24/7– without the need to leave your own k i tch e n. P ro fe s s i o n a l s everywhere can take up the mantle by enrolling in one of the online courses, and learning centuries worth of knowledge at their own pace. Course completion is awarded a highly regarded certification. www.baguetteacademy.com

A glug of good wine, a smear of ripe brie, a bright pastel macaron, and slipping through secret neighbourhoods – City Vision invites you on a glorious gastro journey. Paris is a gourmet’s pleasure playground and this tantalising three-hour tour will lead you through the lesserknown North Marais District and Temple Quarter before meandering along the charming Canal Saint-Martin. Along the way, meet merchants, butchers and bakers who will feed you their finest produce before sending you on your merry way, made all the merrier by a delicious cheese and wine pairing session. www.pariscityvision.com

Baguette Academy

City Vision

boasts an elegant setting offset by sweeping fabrics, gleaming wood, and all the modern conveniences you could want. Days are spent soaking in the spa and indulging in massages, beauty treatments or classes in the wellness institute while evenings are for French Supper Club and classic cinema beneath the stars. For those sailing away on the Paris and Normandy itinerary – a dreamy journey lies ahead.www.uniworld.com/au/ ships/ss-joie-de-vivre

Luxury suite aboard a Uniworld vessel.

Enjoy delectable tours of Paris’ gastronomic underbelly.

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Fine dining is a hallmark of the establishment (photo © du Lion d’Or Bayeux).

des Congrès; upcoming highlights include the Zen Trade Show, the Première Vision Paris for fashionistas, and the Paris Motor Show. www.viparis.com/en/site/ palais-des-congres-paris

Visit

Palais des Congrès de Paris Once upon a time the Palais des Congrès was a scene of screams of delight and twinkling lights. The former fairground is now a world class exhibition complex, and a major architectural challenge is taking it back to its roots. Pavilions, rainbow banners, an urban park and biodiverse touches have brought this space back to life. Every year, thousands flock to trade shows hosted at the Palais

Stay

Hotel du Lion d’Or, Bayeux Normandy is brimming with charm, especially around the Old Bayeux where cosy stays can be found at a former 18th century

Paris Convention Centre; the likely venue for your next expo visit in Paris (photo © Viparis-Bullit Studio).

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coach house. The Hotel du Lion d’Or keeps good company; past residents include well-heeled celebrities, politicians, and royalty. Caught between the historic landing beaches, the pretty city, and the beautiful rural farms of Bessin, guests can sleep easy in elegant rooms, dine in refined style at the restaurant and sip and swirl at the lounge bar. www.liondor-bayeux.fr/en/hotel

Sip

Champagne Dom Caudron

Outdoor champagne tasting at Dom Caudron.

Deep in the tangled vineyards and rolling hills of the Marne Valley you will find the prestigious world of Dom Caudron. Whether you are passionate about popping the cork or looking to explore the story behind the Meunier grape, a trip to Dom Caudron opens a secret universe. From cellar door tours to tasting sessions, an ecomuseum, vintage wine presses and a modern vat house as well as the chance to get right to the heart of harvesting as you roll through the vineyards in a 1920s vintage car – Dom Caudron tours are worth celebrating. www.domcaudron.com

World Leader of

Luxury Expeditions

DISCOVER WHY PONANT HOLDS POLE POSITION IN POLAR EXPEDITIONS PONANT is the World Leader of Luxury Polar Expeditions, carrying more guests each year to explore these isolated regions than anyone else. Experts with over 20 years experience and more than 330 Antarctic and Arctic expeditions. Sail onboard the world’s youngest fleet: ice-rated small luxury expedition ships that offer all the ecological benefits and safety of modern maritime technology plus the facilities of large ships. Enjoy an Open Bar and sophisticated cuisine as you experience PONANT’s unique combination of French lifestyle, refined adventure, comfort and intuitive service. Accompanied by experienced Expedition teams, gain valuable insights and enjoy Zodiac® outings which make landing ashore in remote, seldom visited destinations, safe and enjoyable, enabling you to truly immerse yourself in these extraordinary places. In Antarctica, discover the icy vastness and the prolific fauna of the White Continent: humpback whales, seals, penguins… In the Arctic, fjords, glaciers, icebergs of changing colours and varied fauna await you: polar bears, Arctic foxes, walruses, orcas, whales… without forgetting special moments of interaction with the local Inuit people. Or go on a 23-day voyage of the extraordinary Northwest Passage from Kangerlussaq, Greenland to Nome, Alaska. PONANT - the new era of luxury expedition cruising! EMBLEMATIC ANTARCTICA: 10 nights departing November 2018 to February 2019. THE GREAT ADVENTURE: 15 nights departing November 2018 & February 2019. THE BEST OF SPITSBERGEN: 7 nights departing June & July 2019. BAFFIN BAY SECRETS: 13 nights departing August 2019. NORTHWEST PASSAGE: 22 nights departing August 2020 - Limited availability, contact us now.

Contact your Travel Agent or our PONANT Cruise Consultants on: 1300 737 178 (AUS) | 0800 44 32 62 (NZ) | reservations.aus@ponant.com | au.ponant.com

For terms and conditions, cruise details, rates and to check availability please refer to au.ponant.com.au. Details correct at time of writing - 13/02/2018. Photographs: © PONANT: Lorraine Turci, Laurence Fischer, Servan Roy Berton, Eric Laignel - ABN: 35 166 676 517.

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Les Vieilles Charrues The saltwater tang, mystic shores, and rare culture make Brittany a must for anyone touching down in France. But there is also another reason to head into the Breton wilds – Les Vieilles Charrues. What started as a backyard barbeque has blown up into one of the best music festivals in France. For 20 years, Les Vieilles Charrues has seen artists like The Stooges, Bruce Springsteen and Muse all take to the stage. Big names, crowds, and fun – this is what summers are all about. www.vieillescharrues.asso.fr

Fireworks and festivity at Les Vieilles Charrues in Brittany (photo © Guillaume Le Roy).

Study

Alliance Francaise

Dine

La Petite Maison de Nicole Wrought iron and white linen set the perfect scene for dining at La Petite Maison de Nicole in Nice. The city is famed for its love affair with food, and for two decades Nicole has been bringing traditional recipes to life here; lending a little charm from Provence and snatching inspiration from Italy. The tea room has bloomed into a highly revered eatery, with sister restaurants opening in London and Cannes. Fresh calamari, courgette flower fritters and crab tempura are just a taste of what to expect at the flagship restaurant. www.lapetitemaison-nice.com 32

Intimate courtyard dining at La Petite Maison de Nicole, Nice (photo © Fabrice Rambert).

The Alliance Française in Sydney offers various French language courses and events.

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Keen for some French culture in Sydney? The Alliance Française offers a lineup of French events such as the annual film festival, talks and petanque afternoons. The language courses for all ages are a specialty. Try the two-week intensive or eight-week standard French for Travellers course, and learn essential phrases that will have you conversing with locals and getting around with ease. The Alliance Française has been promoting Franco-Australian exchanges since 1899, and is easily the most reputable place to learn French in Sydney. www.afsydney.com.au

World Leader of

Luxury Expeditions

DISCOVER OUR NEW SMALL EXPEDITION SHIPS FEATURING A WORLD FIRST MULTI-SENSORY UNDERWATER LOUNGE! PONANT is expanding its luxury expedition fleet with the PONANT EXPLORERS.

Stateroom with Balcony

The new fleet, named after the great French explorers, Le Lapérouse, Le Champlain, Le Bougainville and Le Dumont d’Urville features a world first: a multi-sensory underwater lounge. Guests will be able to view the underwater environs through large windows and listen live to the marine world. Combining the latest in maritime design, technology and environmental sensitivity, ships are equipped with only 92 staterooms and suites all with private balcony, a fleet of Zodiac®, and a modular marina platform to enjoy water activities, infinity pool and panoramic view sauna. On board enjoy, exceptional service, superior comfort, luxury amenities and sophisticated cuisine.

Zodiac® Fleet, Infinity Pool & Modular Marina Platform

World First Multi-Sensory Underwater Lounge

For terms and conditions, cruise details, rates and to check availability please refer to au.ponant.com.au. Details correct at time of writing - 13/02/2018. Photographs: © PONANT Jacques Rougerie Architecte, Sterling Design International, Studio Jean-Philippe Nuel. Images are artists impressions and may differ from the actual product. ABN: 35 166 676 517.

Be one of the first to experience our new ships: WONDERS OF THE AMAZON, Le Champlain: 12 nights departing March 2019 MEDITERRANEAN ISLANDS, Le Bougainville: 7 nights departing April 2019 ICONIC KIMBERLEY, Le Lapérouse: 10 nights departing May to August 2019 HISTORIC BALTIC CITIES, Le Dumont d’Urville: 10 nights departing August 2019 There are 85 departures available, please contact us for more itineraries and destinations.

Contact your Travel Agent or our PONANT Cruise Consultants on: 1300 737 178 (AUS) | 0800 44 32 62 (NZ) | reservations.aus@ponant.com | au.ponant.com

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L’Occitane en Provence

BEAUTIFUL to the core

Above: the hyper-mineralised waters of the Réotier spring, drawn only minimally by L’Occitane to ensure the site stays preserved for generations.

THE WEALTH OF HEALING PLANTS FOUND IN SUN-DRENCHED PROVENCE IS ASTOUNDING, AND THEY ARE WONDERFULLY HARNESSED WITHIN THE BEAUTY PRODUCTS OF L’OCCITANE.

ver since the advent of the modern jet set, Provence has maintained the allure of being sun-drenched and seductive. Artists Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse, and writers F Scott Fitzgerald and Graham Greene were just some who have immortalised the region in their art or literature, over many decades and counting. But still they come, travellers of all backgrounds – middle-class Parisian families for the beaches, foreign oligarchs to get married, Hollywood stars to be exalted at Cannes, and the occasional unwary royal to be snapped topless on the beach. Yet the pace of life remains gentle, and the landscape serene. Roman-era relics such as the amphitheatre of Nîmes and the aqueduct of Pont du Gard nestle beautifully beside medieval abbeys and Art Deco hotels. At every turn, fields of lavender, ancient olive groves, the snowcapped alps and that famously golden sunshine greet the eye.

Left: essential oils selection at the L’Occitane workshop. 34

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LOCAL HERO This lyrical landscape also feeds the ingredients contained in each alluring product by beauty company L’Occitane since its inception, in 1976. The region’s lavender oil is used to scent soaps, oils and lotions; almond oil softens and pampers the skin; rose oil is for suppleness and that peerless perfume. Founder Olivier Baussan first harnessed these for use in his still-loved soaps, and sold them at the charming markets of Forcalquier – the town where he still lives. The brand soon began using equally authentic and deliciously effective ingredients from further afield. Shea butter from Burkina Faso is just one secret behind their famous hand cream, while the brand new Aqua Reotier collection of gel-based intensive moisturisers features the calcium-rich waters of the Réotier spring. For more than two decades, L’Occitane has sourced these ingredients in a highly ethical way designed to benefit local communities, and since 2006 it has offered even more support to these communities through its L’Occitane Foundation.

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TRAVELS TO THE SOURCE For visitors, the brand’s bespoke travel experiences bring that story to life in a stunning complement to the products themselves. First off, there’s the flagship store and workshop, where you can take a tour to see how the oils are distilled and the products blended. Then there are the Provence spas: the new Le Vieux Castillon near Avignon, and the original Le Couvent des Minimes near Mane, the epitome of rustic Provençal architecture and nature-filled surrounds. Extensively refurbished and beautifully appointed, it stands alongside 90 L’Occitane spas in 30 countries worldwide as a category leader. L’Occitane also operates balloon tours, letting visitors glide over the countryside, and bespoke tours for those who prefer their feet on the ground. Don’t go searching for their itinerary online, though – each tour is tailored to participants’ needs. Together with locally based Kairos Travel, longtime brand partners, the tours cover everything from exclusive growers to fine foods and historical landmarks. > Cont’d From top: L’Occitane hot air balloon tour in Provence (photo © Loic Legros Photographe); lunch served in the garden of Le Couvent des Minimes; overview of the Couvent’s lush gardens and rustic Provençal build.

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L’Occitane en Provence Sweeping Mediterranean views from the stunning Villa Calvi (photo © Pierre Emmanuel Rastoin); immortelle flowers harvested on the island of Corsica.

WHERE the WILD things Grow

ONE OF L’OCCITANE’S MOST FAMOUS INGREDIENTS IS THE IMMORTELLE FLOWER, SOURCED EXCLUSIVELY IN CORSICA. THE L’OCCITANE MARKETING TEAM TRAVELLED THERE RECENTLY TO INSPECT THE PLANTATION.

ravel to any French periphery, and you’ll experience the charm of its neighbouring cultures – Spanish vibes to the west; German and Belgian airs to the northeast. Clearly, then, Corsica has undeniable elements of Italian culture, being practically within view of Sardinia and closer to Italy than the nearest French port, Nice.

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For us, this is what made the stunning rocky outcrop of Corsica such an unforgettable Mediterranean experience, whether we were feasting on seafood beside a lamp-lit private beach, or admiring the spectacular seascape. The island’s intricate bays form havens for its traditional ochre-walled villages. The roads wind steeply upwards and then back down, passing sheer cliffs rising out of an azure-blue sea, before you reach the next sheltered village. We were lucky to be based in Calvi, one of four ports linked by sea and air to the mainland, and felt like we were on the set of a Bond movie flying in between the nearby mountains before landing on its tiny airstrip.

The team stayed in Villa Calvi (www.relaischateaux.com/us/france/lavillahaute-corse-calvi), a magnificently proportioned neoclassical Mediterranean structure. All you’ll want to do here is perch in the infinity pool, overlooking the romantic Bay of Calvi. Elegant suites, a day spa and richly imagined cuisine await each day upon your return from a medley of activities – whether it’s hiking the colourful and flower-scented Balagne trails, cruising the UNESCO heritage-listed Scandola Nature Reserve, or exploring the local markets. Our biggest reward was seeing where L’Occitane’s Immortelle flowers are grown and harvested for the Divine Harmony range, then watching these reach a global market of passionate customers via the launch of our latest Divine Harmony cream. It’s a level of authenticity that few brands can really match. Further Information L’Occitane au.loccitane.com

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From left: shopping at Le Bon Marché department store (photo © Paris Tourist Office/Marc Bertrand); street performance at Avignon OFF festival (photo © OT Avignon); Air France-KLM Chairman and CEO, Jean-Marc Janaillac.

Air France Window to the WORLD FEW INDIVIDUALS ARE AS WELL PLACED TO SPEAK ABOUT ALL THINGS FRENCH AS JEAN-MARC JANAILLAC, CHAIRMAN AND CEO OF AIR FRANCE-KLM. HERE, HE SHARES SOME OF HIS EXPERIENCES FROM THE RARE PERSPECTIVE OF A SPECTATOR. You’re a known connoisseur of the finer things in life. What is your top fine dining experience in Paris? Definitely Lucas Carton, Paris. At the time I visited, the late Alain Senderens was head chef at this two Michelin-starred establishment. I was struck by the surprising array of flavours he presented, and the perfect combination of wines and dishes. At one point, we were served six different cheeses paired with six different white wines. It was truly unique. What about more casual dining, such as bistrot à la mode? France is unmatched in this department, and a personal favourite is Kitchen Ter(re). This brand new restaurant in Paris, chef William Ledeuil’s third, offers pure and simple Italian cuisine. The flavours are sublime, especially the pastas and broths. With its tasteful décor and reasonable prices, Kitchen Ter(re) has quickly become a regular outing (also, I live only one street away). 38

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I’m sure you know the City of Lights intimately. Do you have a favourite district? Paris offers something for the visitor at every turn. In SaintGermain-des-Prés, you can get lost in a labyrinth of streets, each one as photogenic as the next. You can spend hours exploring boutiques filled with niche French brands and products, or head to the exclusive Le Bon Marché department store, to experience the art of luxury à la française. And some favourite destinations beyond Paris? Beyond Paris, France is host to a non-stop array of cultural events. A personal favourite is the Avignon Festival OFF. First held in 1947, it is the world’s premier market for theatre shows and a showcase of traditional and modern culture, where visitors might catch talks by artists or filmmakers, attend avant garde theatre productions or see a modern interpretation of classics such as Antigone. The fact that it takes place in beautiful Avignon makes the visit even more worthwhile.

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Top: Musée Soulages offers an unrivalled collection of contemporary French art (photo © CRT Occitanie/P Thebault); below: in-flight service aboard an Air France flight. Speaking of culture, regional France has some bold new attractions. Do you have any favourites? Southern France is also home to one of the country’s most striking buildings, Musée Soulages. Located in Rodez, about 150 kilometres from Toulouse, the Musée Soulages is a bold architectural expression of steel, glass and light. Inside is an exceptional collection of works by French painter Pierre Soulages, along with contemporary works by other artists. Being there inspires me.

And finally, we hear that the French je ne sais quoi is truly a part of the Air France experience. Can you give us some examples? Two of my favourite Air France memories are flying to Seoul with an orchestra playing during the flight, and another time flying to New York while enjoying cocktails made by a Ritz Hotel barman. No traveller would ever expect such something like this, 35,000 feet above ground.

Above: Café in Saint-Germain-des-Prés (photo © Paris Tourist Office/Eric Lefeuvre).

Further Information Air France www.airfrance.com.au MAGAZINE

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WINE AFICIONADOS ARE TREATED TO A FEAST OF BORDEAUX WINES AND EXCLUSIVE VINEYARD TOURS WITH FRENCH CRUISE COMPANY, PONANT. PAUL BEST REPORTS

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A Ponant ship alongside the giant wine bottle sculpture at Pauillac, near Château Latour in Bordeaux (photo © Ponant/Philip Plisson).

ne of the world’s best sommeliers, Eric Beaumard, has just likened one of the greatest wine-growing regions in the world to a desert. But that’s precisely what Bordeaux is famous for – its harsh gravelly soil. “To look at the ground, you think how on earth can you grow grapes in that, it’s just gravel, like desert,” says Beaumard, who’s running a Bordeaux masterclass aboard Ponant’s luxury cruise yacht, Le Soléal, on a 10-day voyage from Lisbon to Portsmouth. Billed as the Vineyards & Grand Crus Cruise, the tour is geared for connoisseurs of fine food and wine. “But the soil is the best.” As if the restaurant director of Le Cinq, the three-Michelin-star restaurant of the Four Seasons

George V Hotel in Paris, needed to prove his point, he has four smashing Bordeaux reds on hand for passengers – French and a mix of nationalities, including Australian and American – to taste. It’s a taste, too, of what’s ahead with our imminent arrival in Bordeaux, a highlight of the cruise. Here are the world-renown premier grand cru reds, such as Château Margaux, Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Latour. The highpoint is our exclusive visit of Château Latour, complete with cellar-door tasting. The excitement builds as the mule-drawn cart passes the quilted landscape of leafing vines and the 19th-century château and domed 17th-century tower to the Latour cellars. In the cool, dark corridors, we watch the racking of the lees from the barrel by candlelight MAGAZINE

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Introducing the

Lillet Vive • 60mL Lillet Blanc • 100mL Tonic Water • Slice of Cucumber • Strawberry • Mint sprig Enjoy Lillet responsibly

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Aboard Le Soléal: Gourmet cuisine prepared by French chefs and accompanied by wines presented by Ponant expert sommeliers (photo © Ponant/F. Lefebvre).

(siphoning the aging wine from the dead yeast), and pine over the museum vault filled with vintages of grand cru dating back to early last century. But it’s the promised tasting on our minds most. And finally the chance comes to swirl, smell and sip Latour’s three classes of red: the Pauillac, Les Forts de Latour and duck-back-for-seconds Grand Vin de Château Latour. The thrills don’t end there, either. The day is rounded out by a magnificent gala dinner aboard Le Soléal from legendary French chef Alain Ducasse – including caviar and smoked eel gel, confit duck with foie gras and blue lobster. This is washed down with Château Latour, before the cruise continues to the city of Bordeaux and various stops along the Brittany coast. Our cruise, though, is a celebration as much

for Ponant’s French owners and operators as the passengers, particularly notable for its firsts. We are the first tour group of such size granted private access to Château Latour, for which a pontoon has been specially built. It’s the first time a ship has anchored alongside the vineyard in the Gironde, a tricky waterway at the mercy of the tides, downstream from the city of Bordeaux. It’s an honour not lost on Latour president Frédéric Engerer: “It’s a special, emotional moment for us… this is the first time we can admire the property from the river.” It’s the first time, too, French billionaire François-Henri Pinault, the owner of Groupe Artemis – which bought Ponant in 2015 – has stepped aboard one of the company’s fleet. “Our approach is to be first,” says Ponant CEO JeanEmmanuel Sauvée, who retains a stake in the

company he founded fresh out of the merchant navy as a 23-year-old in 1988. And, as if it’s needed, another first to celebrate lies just around the corner. “2018 is Ponant’s 30th anniversary,” says Sauvée. Sounds like just the occasion for a glass or two of Château Latour.

Further Information PONANT, Yacht Cruises & Expeditions au.ponant.com While the next sailing of the Gastronomy, Vineyards & Grand Crus journey (Lisbon to Portsmouth) in 2018 is already sold out, there is still availability on the 2019 sailing which departs 13 April 2019 on board L’Austral. MAGAZINE

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YOUR HOME AWAY FROM HOME Discover the world of Citadines Apartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;hotel and embrace a living experience that prioritises your comfort and flexibility. Citadines Apartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;hotel - where you live where you want, the way you want, and stay for as long as you wish. Discover 24 Citadines properties in France.

www.citadines.com The Ascott Limited is a member of CapitaLand. It is one of the leading international serviced residence owner-operators with more than 500 properties in over 120 cities spanning more than 30 countries across the Americas, Asia Pacific, Europe and the Middle East. Its portfolio of brands includes Ascott, Citadines, Somerset, Quest, The Crest Collection and lyf.

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Top: The studio’s elegant lounge. Below: portrait of Cate Blanchett (all photos © Studio Harcourt).

STRIKE PARIS HAS ALWAYS BEEN A BYWORD FOR SOPHISTICATED BEAUTY AND STYLE. SINCE THE 1930S, STUDIO HARCOURT HAS ACTIVELY SHAPED THAT IMAGE WITH ITS UNFORGETTABLE PORTRAITS. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

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Studio

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tudio Harcourt was born in 1934, when Hollywood’s black and white movie icons were the best-known faces of the day. Its founders, Cosette Harcourt, the Lacroix brothers and Robert Ricci, built their prestigious photographic studio in Paris’ 16th arrondissement, and movie stars flocked here to have their close-ups immortalised. The studio’s soft halos of light, precise recording of each facial feature, and monochrome colour scheme – not to mention the distinctive Studio Harcourt logo – are still highly prized. MAGAZINE

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TALKING HEADS A portrait session at Studio Harcourt is always a bespoke experience. Though the studio does have its own in-house style, it is the individual look and needs of the sitter which inspire the final images. In an Executive Portrait session (from â&#x201A;Ź385), the purpose is to capture three dynamic headshots which you can use for everyday commercial functions, from your LinkedIn profile to company websites and annual reports. Not only can you be guaranteed that the lighting and focus will show you at your best but, as the photographer puts you at your ease, flashes of your personality will also shine through.

The list of unforgettable portraits shot here over the decades reads like a Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Who of the 20th century, and includes film stars, supermodels, sports personalities, politicians and socialites. These iconic images graced not only cinema screens, but billboards and magazine covers as well. Salvador Dali, Brigitte Bardot and Zinedine Zidane have all sat for portraits here, and in 1990 the French state bought more than five million Studio Harcourt negatives to add to their national archives. These negatives include portraits of no fewer than 1,500 different celebrities from every cultural sphere. More recently, astronaut Thomas Pesquet, German tenor Jonas Kaufmann, prima ballerina Ludmila Pagliero, swimmer Alain Bernard, film director Oliver Stone and musician Tricky have had their portraits shot here. 46

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Opposite: Studio Harcourt’s café (top) and entrance foyer (below); this page: display of famous past portraits (all photos © Studio Harcourt).

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LEGACY SESSION For a rather more opulent affair, which will make you feel like the ultimate starlet, there’s the day-long Fashion Legend session (€24,000). You’ll be given a personal stylist, make-up artist, and hairdresser to ensure you are coiffed to perfection, and then your master photographer and his lighting assistant will get to work. The resulting album, retouched as necessary for the authentic celebrity look, will include 30 extraordinary images and will be a true work of art.

But you needn’t be famous to benefit from the artistry of Studio Harcourt’s photographers. Even ordinary folk are welcome to book an appointment and see themselves transformed. Of course, visiting Studio Harcourt is not just for portrait sitters: it is a Mecca for photography lovers, too. Temporary exhibitions reflecting on different aspects of social history are held at the studio, and sometimes tour around other parts of France. This is the best opportunity for you to see Studio Harcourt’s archive images, and to appreciate their cultural significance. Before you leave, stop for a coffee and patisserie at Café Harcourt by Dalloyau, and admire the fine art photography which decorates the walls.

Further Information Studio Harcourt www.studio-harcourt.eu

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Top: True-to-character portrayal of Australian rockers, Airbourne; below: intimate and moody portrait of Donald Sutherland (all photos © Studio Harcourt).

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Nouvelle-Aquitaine

The GOOD life

Biarritz has been a major surfing destination for 60 years and counting (photo © CDT64); tasting Cognac’s most famous product (photo © Mathieu Anglada).

EVEN IF YOU’RE NOT FAMILIAR WITH NOUVELLE-AQUITAINE, YOU’LL HAVE HEARD OF ITS EXTRAORDINARY DESTINATIONS, FROM THE PALEOLITHIC CAVE PAINTINGS OF LASCAUX TO THE VINEYARDS OF BORDEAUX AND MUCH IN BETWEEN. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

ot only is Nouvelle-Aquitaine the largest region in France, it’s also one of the country’s most vibrant and diverse. Wine lovers will be enamoured with Bordeaux and the Dordogne Valley, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The Atlantic Coast is dotted with attractive clifftop walks, villages, and beaches, and the surfing in Biarritz is first rate. Up in the Pyrenees National Park you can hike long distance trails and ride the highest railway in Europe. Drink the amber coloured nectar in Cognac, browse the fine porcelain of Limoges, or have a thrilling family day out at the Futuroscope theme park.

ACTIVE DESTINATIONS Though there are plenty of world-class sightseeing opportunities in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, it’s the outdoor activities which make it such an attractive region for families and active travellers. Biarritz has just celebrated 60 years as the birthplace of European surfing. Virtual reality displays at its Cité de l’Océan give you a taste of what’s in store above and below the waves, complete with sea spray, before you hit the beach and join one of the city’s superb surf schools for a class. There’s some wild water for canoeing and rafting, and plenty of idyllic coves and beaches for swimming in the Atlantic. France gave the world the Tour de France, and in Nouvelle-Aquitaine cycling is something of a local obsession. If you have legs of steel, in 2019 you can follow the Tour de France route along the three-day Pyrenees stage to Pau. It’s a gruelling ride, but you’ll be rewarded with epic views and an overwhelming sense of achievement. There are, of course, more sedate cycling trails for us mere mortals, too. France’s newest cycle way, the Canal des Deux Mers, links the Atlantic and the Mediterranean through the Gironde Estuary, and the Flow Vélo is a gentle ride along the Charentes River from Thiviers to the Ile d’Aix. 50

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Cruising along the Dordogne River (photo © Gabares Norbert/CRTA); hiking in the Pyrénées near Lescun (photo © CDT / P Gaillard).

ROLLING ON THE RIVER Nouvelle-Aquitaine is criss-crossed with rivers that carve out scenic landscapes, and nourish its rich viticultural lands. Visitors can traverse these idyllic waterways with a surprising range of river cruising options, from small vessels that take your group down deep canals, to the full cruise ship option that plies the River Garonne, stopping to visit world-famous vineyards along the way. These will last a week to 10 days, departing from Bordeaux and taking in Médoc, Sauternes, Saint-Emilion and others, plus the many historical villages and sights in between.

DELICIOUS DESTINATIONS With all these exertions, you deserve some time to relax and luxuriate in gorgeous surroundings, whether a picnic spot in the mountains, or a stay in a striking five-star property. Indulge your taste buds with a spirits tasting at the Martel Foundation’s newly inaugurated Martell de Selgas Cano Pavilion in Cognac, or a wine tasting and getaway at the Prieuré Marquet château and vineyard in Saint Emilion. The renowned Château Guiraud in Sauternes, known for its sweet wines, has opened a superb new bistro, La Chapelle, where owner Nicolas Lascombes serves coveted wines and the region’s finest flavours. The new Chai Monnet — a superb property which adds to the region’s already broad selection of accommodation options — is a remarkable contemporary structure. Make this your base for exploring Cognac and the natural and cultural treasures beyond.

Further Information Visit Nouvelle-Aquitaine www.visit-nouvelle-aquitaine.com MAGAZINE

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Bordeaux

The PERFECT blend

CELEBRATED AS THE GATEWAY TO ONE OF FRANCE’S MOST ICONIC WINE REGIONS, THE ANCIENT CITY OF BORDEAUX ALSO DISPLAYS A NEW URBAN VIBRANCY. BY SALLY HAMMOND

ore than the chic cafés, bars and nightspots that visitors first notice, Bordeaux has a fresh presence, a renewed confidence – and a dash of the bizarre. The lively music and art scene attracts street artists keen to brighten old buildings. That’s the other thing people comment on: this city has had a sympathetic facelift. The UNESCO-listed Cathedral Saint-André with its golden Madonna is gleaming. The Musée des Beaux Arts and the grand squares have been smartened up, too. While wine doesn’t actually flow in Bordeaux’s streets, it’s the lifeblood of the region, and much of the city’s joys revolve around this fêted product.

SEE THE CITY

Top: crowds enjoying the biennial Bordeaux Wine Festival (photo © Vincent Bengold); water rising off Bordeaux’s photogenic Miroir d’Eau (photo © Bordeaux Tourism). 52

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The river has long been a trading route, and modern cruise ships now make this port a vital stop. Stroll the quays like a local, relaxing, celebrating a festival or joining in a game. Tired of walking? The City Pass is good for city museum, gallery and monument visits, and for public transport. Active visitors should note September’s Médoc Marathon and March’s nocturnal marathon.

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Right: La Cité Du Vin viewed from a Bordeaux River Cruise (photo © Alban Gilbert); below: Darwin Ecosystème.

Saint Pierre, Bordeaux’s historic heart, attracts the young and trendy. Come for outdoor dining in a maze of streets, where buildings are decorated with carved stone faces. For a touch of past class, hit the Place de la Bourse with its 18th-century façades or, for something quirky, the world’s largest Miroir d’eau – a field-sized ‘mirror’ created from gracing the square with a shallow film of water. Mark midJune in your diary for the Bordeaux Wine Festival, a huge wine tourism event dedicated to Bordeaux wines (www.bordeaux-wine-festival.com). Indulge in a different water view cruising on the Garonne River, down into the estuary. Enjoy local food and wine on a dinner cruise, or step ashore at a romantic château or naturereserve island. Newest kid on the tourist attraction block is the seven-level, ultramodern and boat-shaped Musée de la Mer et de la Marine (MMM) in the Bassins à Flot district. Ahead of its official opening in autumn is an exhibition of Claude Monet works, Monet: Between land and sea, running from June to September (www.museedelamerbordeaux.fr).

BOOKMARK THIS! Whatever your plans, don’t miss the new La Cité du Vin (www.laciteduvin.com/en), a fascinating wine museum celebrating this city’s key product and all the wines of the world. Like hundreds of thousands of visitors, you will be captivated by the superb interactive exhibition space that National Geographic has ranked seventh in its list of the best museums in the world.

OUT AND ABOUT The only château in Bordeaux city itself, Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion has a vineyard and elegant winery famously designed by Philippe Starck. It is one of 20-plus wine-producers in the greater urban area. Contact Bordeaux Metropole Tourist Office to be tempted by the many tastings and other activities available. Take a hike or a bike ride along the wonderful network of trails, within the city and through its shady forests. The world’s sixth-most cyclefriendly city has 163 kilometres of cycling trails and seven clearly marked routes. Better still, there are 177 self-service cycle pickup points throughout the urban area, accessible via a smartphone app. Hit the ‘alternative’ button and visit the hugely popular Darwin Ecosystème. Formerly an army barracks, it now attracts hip skateboarders, cycle polo players, graffiti artists and lovers of organic food and farming. Classic car fans join the mix on the first Sunday of each month. Head to Le Magasin Général for superb organic menus, including the Sunday brunch, and an organic produce store.

Further Information Bordeaux Tourism www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk MAGAZINE

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Clockwise from lower left: the restaurant’s Parisian setting (photo © Paris Tourist Office/ Marc Bertrand); red curry de gambas (all other photos © Pierre Monetta); the entrance to Spoon; Alain Ducasse with team members Alicia Vegezzi and Gianluca Bennardo.

Urbane

Melting pot à la DUCASSE

THE MARCO POLO OF FINE DINING, ALAIN DUCASSE IS MESMERISING DINERS ONCE AGAIN WITH A REVAMP OF GLOBAL DINING DESTINATION, SPOON. BY JODIE OAKES

lain Ducasse might well be the godfather of culinary cool, having 25 restaurants and 19 Michelin stars to his name. After travelling the far-flung globe, he returned to his Parisian empire and set up his restaurant Spoon, a place where guests can uncover the colours of the world through palate and plate. Located on the Palais Brongniart, nestled between La Concorde and the Louvre, Spoon Mark II is back in a refreshed iteration. The original eatery closed its Champs-Élysées doors several years ago. Guests will find a charming contemporary space designed by Jean-

Michel Wilmotte, filled with soft lighting, warm colours, and all eyes turned towards the menu. Flavours come from far and wide at Spoon, with tastes and textures borrowed from the cool sea breezes of Brazil, the spice islands of Taiwan, and even the white picket fences of the USA. The beauty of this global celebration is that you can be utterly adventurous with the shaved green papaya from tropical Thailand, or opt for the comforting flavours of Mexican chili followed by a heartwarming bread-and-butter pudding. Standout dishes capture the imagination, transporting diners from the bright lights of Paris to exotic corners of the world – highlighted

by the soft and dreamy fish cake brightened by bonito flakes from Taiwan. The Zahtar shoulder of lamb enriched by yoghurt and a sprinkle of sharp coriander from Al-Magrib resonates with the sound of prayer bells over the Atlas Mountains, and the burnt mango brûlée with avocado dances the samba on your tastebuds. It’s no surprise to find that Ducasse has done it again.

Further Information Spoon Paris www.alain-ducasse.com/en MAGAZINE

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Final preparations on La Liste’s highly impartial restaurant rankings (photo © La Liste).

The A-liste WITH THE LAUNCH OF EXTRAORDINARY NEW RESTAURANT RATING SYSTEM, LA LISTE, FOODIES CAN EXPECT UNBIASED REVIEWS ON THE VERY BEST RESTAURANTS INTERNATIONALLY – MANY OF THEM IN FRANCE. BY SALLY HAMMOND

his year, consider the wise words of the late Paul Bocuse, the first chef using status and fame to draw diners to his eponymous restaurant: ‘Life is too short for cuisine minceur and for diets. Dietetic meals are like an opera without the orchestra.’ A true super-star, Bocuse maintained a half century of three Michelin stars. For 2018, La Liste, under the guidance of founder, Philippe Faure, has carefully selected and shared the world’s benchmark dining. Using an algorithm, cross-referenced over 550 specialised publications and millions of food critics worldwide, it calculated scores and a ranking scale, returning an impartial decision. La Liste has three categories: World Top 1,000, Outstanding Cuisine (5,000 establishments) and Food Gems (10,000 recommendations). Of the 1,000 top restaurants, 134 restaurants 56

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from Japan were listed. France had 118, China 123, and Australia 27, with Attica, Victoria, ranking number 39. In the final tally, surprises evidenced the influence of French cuisine in Asia and the US: New York’s Le Bernadin came in equal second place with Kyubey, Japan.

THE FRENCH DOMINANCE Bocuse once famously said, ‘Without butter, without eggs, there is no reason to come to France.’ However, nouvelle cuisine, cuisine minceur and worldwide trends have tempered Frances’s once rich and heavy cuisine. Today there is greater emphasis on freshness and provenance. French chefs have access to a comprehensive range of agricultural products and seafood. Almost anything is available – in time for dinner – always paired with a fine French wine.

Local produce is key to the best menus. French cheeses, breads, meat and seafood products are of the highest quality, many branded by their origin. Tradition plays a large role on the menus and cartes of French restaurants, with regional and heritage dishes almost always available, a sign of modern French chefs’ loyalty and pride in the example of their predecessors. Diners worldwide may now enjoy similar finesse. La Liste’s mobile application, with 16,000 expert recommendations for dining in 165 countries, means the world’s culinary nomads will be well served. Literally!

ALAIN DUCASSE Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée shared third place with six restaurants from five other countries on La Liste. Including over 30 restaurants

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From top: chef Guy Savoy, who scored top place on La Liste in 2018 (photo © Salon Belles Bacchantes/Laurence Mouton); chef Alain Ducasse with sous chef Romain Meder at Plaza Athénée (photo © Pierre Monetta).

worldwide, Ducasse’s food portfolio includes cookery schools and consulting, and advising the European Space Agency on astronaut fare. As a chef, he has always saluted pristine produce. His first Spoon restaurant in Paris featured wall-sized photographs of the people who grew his lettuces, and harvested the oysters, acknowledging his trust and reliance on them. Ducasse was the first chef to achieve three Michelin stars in restaurants in three cities. Undoubtedly, this attention to every link in the food chain and all facets of his enterprise have been key to this.

GUY SAVOY La Liste’s 2018 winner is: Guy Savoy Paris, with a near-perfect score of 99.75 per cent. Chef Savoy, who has three other restaurants in Paris and one in Las Vegas was, like Bocuse, raised in France’s food heartland, near Lyon. His absolute belief in terroir and selecting the best produce underpins his restaurants’ focus. The nomination of ‘Best in the World’ by La Liste is a proud honour for the chef who has been quoted as saying, ‘There is no magic formula. Alchemy is personal’. Little wonder, then, that food critics and fans alike have difficulty adequately describing the effect of his food and presentation.

Further Information La Liste www.laliste.com/en MAGAZINE

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Clockwise from main: Florian Guillemard and crêpes at the Circular Quay restaurant; adding the finishing touches; Four Frogs table service (all photos © Four Frogs).

Sizzle CRÊPE Expectations COMBINING AUTHENTIC FRENCH COMFORT FOOD WITH DIVERSE AUSTRALIAN FLAVOURS, FOUR FROGS CRÊPERIE IS WOWING DINERS RIGHT ACROSS SYDNEY.

hen the four Frenchmen behind this fast-growing Sydney venture arrived in Australia, they found perfect beaches, a beautiful climate and wonderful people. But they struggled to find authentic crêpes, and so Four Frogs was born. “We love the new-wave French bistros, such as Moncur and Papillon. We wanted to be part of this trend, with a modern product reflecting our own backgrounds,” explains Brittany-born founding owner and professional chef, Florian Guillemard. Florian and his colleagues have created a menu of traditional savoury crêpes (galettes), made with tasty, nutritional buckwheat flour milled on-site,

and a tempting array of sweet concoctions. “The one thing that surprised me is how adventurous Australian diners are,” Florian continues. “In France, we pretty much stick to ham and cheese for the galettes. Here, people love the classics but are also devouring exotic creations, such as slow-cooked Moroccan lamb or duck with hoisin sauce.” Management is also pleased to see locals enjoying traditional Brittany ciders with their galettes, followed by a dessert crêpe and a cup of original-roasted Four Frogs coffee. Most of all, the group is happy to be spreading a little French culture throughout the city, via its branches in Mosman, Randwick, Circular Quay

and soon, Lane Cove. Their special holiday menus are famed, with the next major one being for Bastille Day. Apart from highlights such as crêpes Suzette, and galettes with garlic-parsley snails, “it’ll be a month of Frenchness,” promises Florian. “Good food, good wine and good company – lots of people will stop by.” It’s hard not to be bowled over by the upbeat charm of Four Frogs.

Further Information Four Frogs Crêperie www.fourfrogs.com.au

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GUESS who’s coming todinner FOR JUST ONE NIGHT IN MARCH, SOME 3,300 RESTAURANTS ALL OVER THE WORLD CREATE THEIR OWN FRENCH GASTRONOMIC FEAST AS PART OF THE GOOD FRANCE EVENT.

B From top: chef Xavier Mathieu putting the finishing touches on a dish (photo © Xavier Mathieu); the chef’s signature dessert, resembling a real egg (photo © Atout France/Marshall Dwyer).

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eing a modern urban gourmet has its tantalising dilemmas. Slow food or quick frîtes? Bistronomy or gastronomy? Dégustation or banquet? Yet what’s common to the culinary styles most of us enjoy almost daily is how many of them originated in France. And that’s just why diners everywhere come together to celebrate French cuisine on one night of every year, March 21. This is when 3,300 restaurants around the world, from 150 countries including 20 locations in Australia, serve formal French full-course meals to more than 120,000 diners. This is Good France, or Goût de France, launched four years ago by visionary chef Alain Ducasse together with the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Development. On this night, special wines are opened, local and exceptional ingredients sourced and chefs flown in to make the night happen, which is what diners experienced on this particular latesummer evening at Melbourne’s chic restaurant No 35, located sky-high on the top floor of Sofitel Melbourne on Collins.

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CREATION BY XAVIER MATHIEU Seasonality is intrinsic to French cuisine. This particular evening – billed A Dinner in Provence – oozed late-summer senses at every turn, with its sunflowers at the table and light flavours for each course. Michelin star-rated chef Xavier Mathieu flew in from Le Phébus in Provence to oversee his menu, following a strict sequence of courses true to the event’s original concept. Supporting him was chef John Savage and the team at Sofitel Melbourne on Collins. On arrival, guests watched a pink-orange sun sink over the city skyline, sipped flutes of Pommery Brut Royal and nibbled on an array of amuse-bouches. These included tartelette d’anchoïade, aïoli with hand-cut fries and fougasse bread with river trout roe. Next was a tantalising entrée of cannelloni with crab remoulade, offset with subtle anisetinged cucumber to cleanse the palate, before the meal dipped into an ever-so-slightly more nocturnal mode: the main dish of tuna steak a la Rossini, accompanied with goose foie gras and laced with black truffle. The showstopper dessert (pictured), oeuf coque citron safran et amandes, is a Xavier Mathieu signature dish, and drew light smatterings of applause when it was served at the night’s end.

A CENTURY IN THE MAKING A talking-point long before it became a reality, Goût de France revives a proposal that the great Auguste Escoffier had back in 1912.

Clockwise from top: Australia-based chef and TV presenter, Gabriel Gâté with Clive Scott, Director Sofitel Melbourne on Collins; table setting at the Sofitel Melbourne Good France event; Inge Fransen, Managing Director Vranken Pommery, speaks at the event (event photos © Atout France/ Marshall Dwyer).

Escoffier’s Epicurean Dinners originally sought to serve the same French meal, on the same day, in several world cities. Goût de France adds some flexibility to this vision, by encouraging regionspecific interpretations of the French theme. “French cuisine is first and foremost an entire attitude. Its strength lies in its attention to the products used and the seasons,” says Ducasse. “That is why it is able to adapt to such a range of regions – the sources available vary depending on the place and the season, but the

care taken over products and the techniques are the same everywhere.” If you didn’t make it to any Good France events this year, there’s always the anticipation of seeing which incredible chefs will headline an event near you in 2019.

Further Information Good France www.goodfrance.com MAGAZINE

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RIVER CRUISE

IN RELAXED LUXURY

Leave the ordinary behind and embrace France like never before. River cruise through Europe and experience quiet indulgence and luxury done our way â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a little laid back. Offering exquisite service thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s professional, friendly and comfortable, our ships become your home away from home.

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From top: A fresh take on French cuisine; selection of original housemade beers; chef Thomas Cauquil with head brewer Vincent De Soyres, the world-travelling and entrepreneurial cofounders of Frenchies (all photos © Alana Dimou).

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Bistronomy

The CRAFT crew

CRAFT BEER IS PAIRED WITH A SUBLIME NEW-SCHOOL MENU AT FRENCHIES BISTRO & BREWERY IN SYDNEY, THANKS TO FRENCH TALENTS THOMAS CAUQUIL, CHEF, AND VINCENT DE SOYRES, BREWER.

he bistronomy movement has hit Sydney with gusto, thanks to last year’s opening of Frenchies Bistro & Brewery inside the chic, industrial The Cannery complex in Sydney’s Rosebery. And in case you’re not familiar with the term, bistronomy means a radical new take on French cuisine – ‘bistro’ meets ‘gastronomy’. “We wanted to do something more modern than the kind of French food currently represented in Australia, such as steak tartare or frîtes,” says head chef Thomas Cauquil, who has worked at Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe and at several kitchens across Sydney. That means plenty of fresh market ingredients, especially fish, and a constantly changing menu. Favourite dishes with diners have ranged from pigs’ trotters on toast, to a Borneo-inspired fish simmered in curry leaves. “We’re always innovating with our charcuterie

selection too. We get a whole pig and break it down ourselves; patrons can see the meats being cured over at the deli section of our restaurant,” adds Cauquil. Beer has been rethought, too, inspired by some of the fine dining beer establishments overseas and which are largely absent in Australia. “Some craft beers are very hops-forward, but this can really interfere with the flavour of the food served,” notes head brewer Vincent De Soyres. “We wanted to restore the balance between malt and hops, so we’ve created a very European series of dry beers that goes fantastically well with the food. The current favourite is Triple Verhaegen, an incredible beer with 17 per cent alcohol. It’s as complex as any wine.”

Further Information Frenchies Bistro & Brewery frenchiesbistroandbrewery.com.au MAGAZINE

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Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme

Private RETREAT

FINE ART, FINE DINING AND FINE SERVICE ARE HALLMARKS OF THE PARK HYATT PARIS-VENDÔME, WHERE GUESTS CAN EXPECT AN EMINENTLY PARISIAN STAY.

ntimately proportioned and cleverly conceived, the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme lies behind a discreet façade on rue de la Paix. It’s hard to imagine a more Parisian location, with the Paris Opera and rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré just moments away. The Champs-Elysées is a 30-minute stroll – perfect for guests keen to experience the Tour de France finale. Inside, celebrated American architect Ed Tuttle has infused an ambience of chic neoclassicism, blending styles such as Louis XVI and Art Deco with materials such as mahogany and marble. Art is integral to the Park Hyatt (which was founded by famed collector Jay Pritzker), and you’ll see works by renowned French artists in many of its public spaces. Since opening in 2000 after a masterful refurbishment of several Second Empire buildings, the hotel has garnered a loyal following. Diplomats, celebrities, writers and European royalty are all regulars at this 153-room establishment, drawn equally by the grand service as by the dining choices. Head to the darkly elegant Le Bar, or the Michelin star-rated Le Pur’, where you’ll find a simple and elegant menu. Or sample one of the hotel’s exclusive culinary events. At press time, the restaurant-lounge Les Orchidées was hosting several Grand Crus dinners, in which a gastronomic menu is paired with hand-selected fine wines. A couture-inspired chocolate Easter Egg, created in homage to the many fashion ateliers once housed here, was about to go on sale in the hotel shop. Active guests can visit the hotel’s 24-hour gym and sauna, followed perhaps by a beauty treatment at Le Spa, featuring Crème de la Mer product. Discreet yet attentive service, and state-of-the-art technology in every room, go without saying.

Further Information Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme www.hyatt.com

Clockwise from top: timeless elegance at Les Orchidées restaurant; the hotel’s very Parisian façade; Les Orchidées table setting (photos © Park Hyatt). MAGAZINE

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Urban OASIS SOAK UP THE JOYS OF THE LATIN QUARTER BY CHECKING INTO HOTEL RELAIS CHRISTINE, THE GLORIOUS 17TH CENTURY PROPERTY TREASURED BY PARIS’ ART LOVERS AND LITERATI. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

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aris’ cultural heart beats in the 6th arrondissement. Cross the Seine on the Pont Neuf, wander through the Jardin du Luxembourg, and stop to admire the 6th century Abbey and prestigious art galleries of Saint-Germain-desPrés. Pausing at Les Deux Magots, you might well drink coffee alongside the next Hemingway or Sartre. The Hotel Relais Christine lets guests skip the commute and stay right in the heart of the Left Bank. Built originally as an intimate private residence, the hotel retains both its Parisian sophistication and the feeling that you are a welcome family guest. On arrival, you’ll be struck instantly by the building’s history. The façade and interiors incorporate surviving architectural elements of the Grands-Augustins Abbey and Saint Denis College, and the covered passageway and courtyard garden have no doubt been witness to centuries of liaisons amoureuses. Antique furniture, paintings, prints and engravings abound.

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Clockwise from main: Courtyard garden, Guerlain spa treatment room and guest suite at Relais Christine (photos © Relais Christine).

ELEGANT AND INTIMATE The design of the lobby, lounge and other public areas is well suited to a Parisian soirée. Sumptuous brocades in rich red, blue and gold upholster the seating, curios are positioned to stimulate conversation, the lighting is soft, and well-positioned mirrors assist glamorously attired ladies in checking their reflection. You’ll certainly want to browse the book shelves, admire the artworks and, if there’s a chill in the air, sit by the open fireplaces to relax. Relais Christine’s 48 rooms are opulent to say the least, and every one of them is unique. The wallpapers, heavy full-length curtains and wooden or marble floors would not look out of place in one of Paris’ palace hotels. The antique furniture has been carefully chosen to complement the décor, but still be functional for the modern guest. Famed interior designer Laura Gonzalez has recently directed the hotel’s refurbishment, bringing to bear her signature style which blends classic Parisian taste with architectural conservation and a modern twist. The rooms typically have one queen size or two twin beds. The linens are the finest cotton, crisp and gleaming white. Silk scatter cushions

complete the look. Waking in the morning, open the French windows onto your balcony or terrace, and listen to the sounds of Paris coming to life as you sip your first coffee of the day.

BODY AND SOUL An indulgent breakfast is served daily in the lounge, where later in the day you’ll also find snacks, afternoon tea, and the hotel’s understandably popular fine drinks offering. Book a treatment at Relais Christine’s Spa Guerlain, cradled beneath the hotel’s 13th century vaults, where there’s a sauna, jacuzzi and two private treatment rooms. It’s an exceptionally elegant, peaceful place in which to retreat, and the Maison Guerlain products are nothing short of divine. Relais Christine provides free bicycle rental to guests, so climb into the saddle and fulfil your Parisian fantasies cycling through the Latin Quarter, or ambling to Saint-Sulpice. Paris waits to be explored.

Further Information Hotel Relais Christine www.relais-christine.com

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HIT the PAUSE button FOR ACTIVE TRAVELLERS SEEKING SPACE TO RELAX, THESE FIVE DIVINE DESTINATIONS WILL SERVE YOU WELL. BY ADRIANNE YOUNG

he star status of participant sports is still on the rise and, ever on the leading edge of hospitality trends, hotels in France are making it a joy for sporty visitors to recover. Here are five luxury properties that will let the competitor and spectator (as well as an active family) enjoy a moment of self-care

THE ROSE APARTMENT In a city of bakeries, chocolatiers and markets, a kitchen table of one’s own is essential. What better place to enjoy an evening apéritif than from your own flower-decked patio, overlooking the Seine? The Rose Apartment, a jewel box on Île Saint Louis, is one of those elegantly appointed spaces that reveals that the true pleasure of life in Paris is staying in a Parisian apartment. Once through the impressive wrought-iron gate and past the charming courtyard, this light-filled apartment with floor-to-ceiling double pane windows exudes luxury. Begin your day by lingering in the romantic loft bedroom, before popping out to buy freshly baked croissants. Then pour yourself an espresso coffee from your fully equipped kitchen. At night, the lights dancing along the river cast a distinctly 68

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Top: Intimate overviews of the Seine; below: the Rose Apartment is a short stroll from Paris’ most iconic attractions (photos © Guest Apartment Services Paris).

Parisian mood, and you can hear the bells of Notre-Dame just minutes away. Rose Apartment is managed by Guest Apartment Services Paris which, for over 20 years, has offered luxury apartments for rent in prime locations. It also provides full concierge and housekeeping services as well as limousine transfers. If you’re not a fan of the quirks associated with privately listed stays, it provides an exceptional alternative. Guest Apartment Services Paris caters for almost every category of traveller, whether visiting the city for holidays, honeymoons, family

celebrations or participating in major fashion, sporting and cultural events. Renowned for its friendly service, Guest Apartment Services Paris features a range of stunning apartments varying in size and décor to satisfy the most discerning traveller.

GUEST APARTMENT SERVICES PARIS www.guestapartment.com Christine Gee, Australian Marketing Representative 0428 616 834

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Contemporary landscaping and inspired activities await just outside Paris (photos © Villages Nature Paris).

VILLAGES NATURE PARIS Travel with children always looks so very enjoyable in the photo album. A precursor to that fun photo is the unseen joy of coordinating meals, passports and loo lines. Villages Nature Paris provides families with a dynamic and rewarding stay where the enjoyment of kids and parents is considered equally important. The park’s Aqualagon, which includes a thrilling thermally heated water slide, is an immediate family-wide attraction. But the park’s other activities – such as the climbable Forest of Legends – are equally irresistible. Tour BelleVie Farm and get to know the animals in the petting zoo. Learn how to make bread, or

harvest in the vegetable garden. Small children have safe interactive spaces to explore as well. Tiny hands can stroke cuddly zoo animals or splash freely during baby swimming classes. Parents can treat themselves to wine tasting on the Lakeside Promenade or enjoy a treatment in the Deep Nature Spa. Villages Nature cottages and apartments are the ideal basecamp for fun-filled days. The friendly living rooms offer an inviting spot to nestle in and recount the day’s adventures. Families have plenty of space to allow for a long morning, enjoy a favourite breakfast or easily gather up the gear before an excursion out and about.

Disneyland is just 6 kilometres away and the Eiffel Tower a quick 30 kilometres, making it feasible for guests to catch the last leg of the Tour de France, or book a seat at a world-class equestrian event.

VILLAGES NATURE PARIS www.villagesnature.com

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THE CHARTREUSE AT COS D’ESTOURNEL www.estournel.com/en/chartreuse

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Anyone who has run the wine-soaked Marathon du Médoc will recall, with remarkable clarity, the exotic beauty of the Chartreuse at Cos d’Estournel. The château’s spires and arches take elegant command of the Bordeaux sky and inside its magnificent gates, the guest experience is just as stunning. This six-bedroom home of hotelier Michel Reybier and his family is a living example of life celebrated through luxury. Upon arrival, the family’s home manager will lead a tour through the exquisitely appointed home. The château is only rented in its entirety, giving your travel party exclusive access to experiences such as wine tasting in the stunning new vat room, MAGAZINE

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Top: experience the grandeur of life in a Bordeaux château; left: fine wines and genteel décor awaits guests (photo © The Chartreuse).

THE CHARTREUSE AT COS D’ESTOURNEL

a dip in the indoor heated pool, or an afternoon in the hammam. Even on the sun-soaked patio, the outside world stays reverently at bay. Bordeaux makes a compelling day-trip from the Chartreuse. A guided tour will reveal the hidden sights and natural hot springs on the Gironde Estuary. Or book a day trip to play on the coast, or venture into Bordeaux itself with a wine and history expert to see the city’s best offerings. Return to the charmed world of the Chartreuse, where the estate’s private chef will prepare dinner as the fire roars with welcome. For those celebrating a big win or special anniversary, a custom fireworks display is not out of grasp. Such is the life of a titan who makes an art of living.

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Clockwise from main: Mediterraneaninspired central pool at Byblos Hotel; chef Vincent Maillard; bar at Rivea Restaurant by Alain Ducasse and chef Vincent Maillard (all photos © Adrien Daste).

BYBLOS HOTEL SAINTTROPEZ A five-star Palace hotel www.byblos.com/en

BYBLOS HOTEL SAINT-TROPEZ Saint-Tropez’s origins as a humble fishing village seem a thing of myth when sitting poolside at the Byblos Hotel. While the suites that cascade down the hill glow with uncomplicated splendour, the air feels and smells so very unlike any simple village. The Byblos Hotel is a place where a freshfaced celebrity might be seen relaxing, and a midnight snack is immediately at hand. It

The Mediterranean-inspired central pool at Byblos-Palace.

seamlessly balances luxury with an air of Riviera ease. Open seasonally, the 91-room and suite hotel has been host to celebrities since 1967. Yet it’s the region’s trademark warmth that fills the hotel from April to October, with guests from around the world. Some come for the spa, and others come to party at the Byblos Hotel’s renowned Les Caves du Roy nightclub. The menu at Rivea by Alain Ducasse also pays homage to the locale. The hors d’oeuvre menu showcases the honesty of the French and

Italian countryside as well as the wealth of the trade winds. The rooms at the Byblos Hotel spread over the property and are airy, easy spaces featuring views of the garden, pool or village. Suite offerings range from ample Junior Suites to those suited for cocktail parties and casual gatherings. Live larger than life in the Missoni Home Suite, where the custom designer finishes and a pool view are that perfect balance of luxury and leisure.

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MONTE-CARLO BEACH There are times at the Monte-Carlo Beach that the 1920s still roar. When the hotel first opened in 1929, it dripped with sun-swept glamour and prestige. Newly remodelled by the architect and designer India Mahdavi, the hotel’s new look pays tribute to its beach club history through sophisticated and whimsical furnishings. Each of the 40 rooms and suites at the Monte-Carlo Beach features these same fairytale touches, as well as state-of-the-art technology. Take in the endless blue horizon from the deck, or head to a cabana on the beach, first thing. The Beach Club offers a tireless roster of activities. Go skipping along the shore in a jet ski or launch out of the water on a fly board. Parasailing, waterskiing or exercise classes in the Olympic-size heated pool are all available. From July to August each year, children have their own club, Marmorata, with water sports tailored to ages three to eight years old. Dining options abound, always just steps away. Make sure to dine on the terrace overlooking the Mediterranean at the Michelin-starred Elsa. This restaurant serves 100 per cent certified organic cuisine, with ingredients drawn from farms around Nice, highlighting the flavour of the Riviera in signature dishes. Or nestle into a chair beside the water at La Vigie Lounge & Restaurant, making sure to sample its seafood menu – especially grilled crayfish. Sit for a moment and look out onto a timeless view that has been relished by guests of the iconic Monte-Carlo Beach over the decades.

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MONTE-CARLO BEACH www.monte-carlo-beach.com

Clockwise from main: Intimate Mediterranean sea views present themselves from every aspect; luxurious and lightfilled guest suite; sea views at La Pizzeria restaurant (photo © SBM).

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Clockwise from above: the idyllic valley-facing infinity pool at Terre Blanche; nearby destinations include the hilltop village of Tourrettes; championship golf course at Terre Blanche (all photos © Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort).

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Provence

In the SWING of it IRRESISTIBLE AND ENCHANTING PROVENCE AND THE CÔTE D’AZUR IS THE PERFECT SETTING FOR TERRE BLANCHE HOTEL SPA GOLF RESORT, REGULARLY VOTED ONE OF THE BEST GOLF RESORTS IN EUROPE. BY PAUL ARNOLD

hat delicious slice of southern France known as Provence is famed for its exceptional natural beauty and diversity, encompassing ancient olive groves and vineyards, fields of lavender and sunflowers, snow-capped mountains and the shimmering Mediterranean coastline. Inspired by this landscape of light, colours and fragrances is the five-star Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort, a 300-hectare haven of golf, wellness, relaxation and nature that’s ranked one of the Top 30 Resorts in Europe by Condé Nast Traveler. It’s also just 45 minutes from Nice International Airport. With France set to host the Ryder Cup in September at Le Golf National in Paris, golf is very much on the agenda: this is only the second time in the biennial contest’s history that it’s been held in continental Europe.

ACTIVE PURSUITS The resort’s two 18-hole championship golf courses are designed by renowned golf course architect Dave Thomas. Both are exciting to play, and in harmony with the conservation of the verdant natural surroundings of woods, valleys, lakes and ravines. With challenging bunkers and greens, the 6,616-metre Le Château is the resort’s more demanding golf course, ideal for the motivated golfer with a handicap under 35. The steep fairways and elaborate greens of the Le Riou course also present a thrilling challenge. Learn new golfing techniques, enhance existing ones and take advantage of a holistic 74

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approach to better golf performance with ultramodern facilities and world-class coaching at the Albatross Golf Performance Centre. This is the winter training base of the French amateur team, and features a 64-mat driving range, indoor and outdoor putting greens, and a fitness room. Participate in sporting activities away from the championship courses, too. About a 10-minute drive east of the resort is Saint Cassien Lake. It offers fishing, swimming and rowing, among other aquatic pursuits. Go horse-riding, set out on a hike or get on your wheels for a road or mountain bike adventure. Terre Blanche sits in a region known for hilly landscapes that are a well-known drawcard for mountain bikers, and every year hosts Roc d’Azur, the world’s biggest mountain biking competition.

BLISSFUL RELAXATION After a thrilling day of action and activity, surrender tired limbs to the soothing and blissful pampering of the resort’s spa. This peaceful sanctuary encompasses 14 private massage and treatment rooms, jacuzzis, a spacious indoor pool and a range of indulgent spa packages including Harmony Retreat and Body Detox. Then round off the day in one of Terre Blanche’s restaurants. Savour French gastronomy and the exquisite flavours of Provence in the fine dining setting of the Michelinstarred Le Faventia, or the Club House restaurant and bar lounge. There is also a restaurant for children. Further Information Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort en.terre-blanche.com

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TOP 5 THINGS TO SEE AND DO NEARBY

> Explore

the fascinating Fayence region. Highlights include the individual charms of medieval hilltop villages such as Callian, Fayence and Seillans, among the prettiest villages in France.

> Fuel your love for great wine by hitting the

Wine Road. Drive through the captivating countryside of the Var, stopping off for tasting sessions at its vineyards.

> Head to the medieval town of Grasse,

the perfume capital of the world. Tour perfume factories to discover how the region’s flowers are used to create exquisite fragrances.

> Hike by the Sainte-Croix Lake and through

the Verdon Gorge, known as Europe’s Grand Canyon.

> Embark on a tasting voyage of discovery

at Provençal produce markets in Fayence, Cannes, Antibes and Saint-Tropez.

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LE MEURICE www.dorchestercollection.com/en/paris/ le-meurice

Indulge HEIGHT of luxury ONLY IN FRANCE WILL THE TRAVELLER EXPERIENCE A PALACE HOTEL – A RESIDENCE MORE ASTOUNDINGLY LUXURIOUS AND MEMORABLE THAN ANY FIVE-STAR HOTEL. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

here are memories that last a year, and others that last a lifetime. Staying in a Palace hotel is definitely among the latter. The Palace label was created by the French Minister of Tourism and Atout France in 2010, and indicates a stay so exceptional, it’s akin to six stars. There are 24 Palace hotels in France altogether, including the Paris addresses featured here. Book far ahead and dig deep for those travel funds – you’ll always remember when you lived like royalty, even if only for a night.

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PLAZA ATHÉNÉE www.dorchestercollection.com/en/paris/ hotel-plaza-athenee/

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LE MEURICE Once the king’s residence, The Meurice has sat majestically opposite the Tuileries and the Louvre since 1853, always conveniently close for royal visitors. Here, French luxury is the name of the game with exquisite chandeliers, 18th century furniture, marble bathrooms and a dramatic contemporary touch from designer Philippe Starck. The all-day dining restaurant, Le Dalí, pays tribute to Salvador Dalí’s long-term and eventful stays at the hotel. Other guests over the years include Queen Victoria, Alfonso XIII (King of Spain), King George VI, Elizabeth Taylor, Ginger Rogers and Orson Welles. The magnificent Belle Etoile Suite features a 360-degree view of Paris and many of the other suites overlook the gardens with brilliant night views. Flagship facilities include the double Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse restaurant Le Meurice, and the cosy leather and dark wooden Bar 228, where live piano and trumpet jazz things up year-round.

PLAZA ATHÉNÉE Brush shoulders with the fashion set at the iconic Plaza Athénée, situated close to the world’s best fashion houses. It’s also a short walk to the world’s most famous backdrop – the Eiffel Tower itself. The Haussmann architecture is bold and beautiful, and once you pass a pouting model or two out front, you’ll discover an elegant lobby, often brightened with contemporary art installations. Reserve a table at the well-to-do Art Deco brasserie, Le Relais Plaza, or head over to Alain Ducasse’s ‘naturalness’ restaurant, where the cuisine is based on quality fish, vegetables and grains. Take time out in the delightful courtyard, full of geraniums, vines and camellias, or kick back at Le Bar. As for the rooms themselves, the décor, by renowned interior designer

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Marie-José Pommereau, is plush and pretty. Finally, The Dior Institut spa will soothe out any jet-lag, and have you swanning around with the best of them.

LE ROYAL MONCEAU If mid-century art and design appeal to you more than a royal past or fashionable present, then perhaps a stay at Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris is in order. Apart from offering an on-site contemporary art gallery, private cinema and art concierge – who will set you on the path of the city’s finest cultural events, including private art viewings – the hotel offers glamorous 1940s and ‘50s styling in each room and suite. Think chic brass fittings, pale furnishings and simple, oversized lounges. The Ray Charles suite, with a grand piano, is particularly special. The guest experience continues across the swimming pool and other facilities, all destinations in their own right. There’s chef Nobu’s first French restaurant, Matsuhisa Paris, offering a masterly and modern interpretation of sushi and other Japanese classics. The Michelin-starred Il Carpaccio and others round out the experience.

Further Information For a full list of Palace Hotels, visit the national tourism website and search for Palace hotels. au.france.fr

Opposite, top: the entrance to Le Meurice (photo © Niall Clutton); below: the distinctive red awnings of Plaza Athenée (photo © Bi Premium/Masahiko Takeda). This page: elegant welcome at Le Royal Monceau (photo © Philippe Garcia).

LE ROYAL MONCEAU www.leroyalmonceau.com/en

Executives, chefs and other creators from the 24 Palace hotels of France pose in Paris (photo © Rip Hopkins/VU).

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AccorHotels From the desk of Sven Boinet, DEPUTY CEO 78

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ACCORHOTELS’ DEPUTY CEO, SVEN BOINET, REFLECTS ON SOME OF HIS FAVOURITE EXPERIENCES IN BRITTANY, INCLUDING WHAT TO EXPECT FROM A STAY AT THE NOVOTEL THALASSA DINARD.

y head is full with Paris, and my legs carry me around the world to AccorHotels’ many destinations. But my heart still belongs to the Brittany coastline, where I grew up. In fact, the AccorHotels group is led by two Bretons, Sébastien Bazin, Chairman and CEO of the group, and myself. Both of us have a second home on the Côte d’Émeraude near beautiful Dinard. We’ve even named one of our meeting rooms in the Paris headquarters after the town, to remind us of home. Few experiences rival the cuisine and ocean views on offer at the Novotel Thalassa Dinard, where I had the privilege of marrying a few decades ago. Positioned on an idyllic stretch of calm coastline, this is a place where I like to feast on fresh, generous seafood platters with friends and family.

When I’m not fishing for sea bass or skate from my sailing boat, I enjoy teeing off at the famous golf course of Saint-Briac-sur-Mer, founded in 1887 by a group of British residents. AccorHotels has developed close ties with the golfing world over the last three decades, owing to the group’s founders’ love for the game. Many of our hotels are located right beside prestigious golf courses, and this year we are official partners of the 2018 Ryder Cup.

Further Information AccorHotels www.accorhotels.com Headquartered in northern France, AccorHotels operates 75 hotels in Brittany alone, from economy to luxury. Globally, the group offers more than 4,200 hotels, resorts and residences, plus more than 10,000 fine private homes.

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Opposite: The romantic village of Dinan (photo © Emmanuel Berthier). This page, from top: ocean-facing terrace at the Novotel Thalassa Dinard (photo ©Tommy Picone); oysters served at the hotel’s restaurant (photo © Jacques Yves Gucia); AccorHotels Deputy CEO, Sven Boinet.

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Like the nearby towns of Honfleur and Deauville, Trouville-sur-Mer is renowned for its elaborate 19th century architecture (photo © Bertl123/Shutterstock).

Normandy Land of LYRICAL light THE STUNNING COASTAL REGION OF NORMANDY IS EQUAL PARTS DRAMATIC SEASCAPES, HERITAGE-LISTED WONDERS AND SENSATIONAL COOL-CLIMATE CUISINE. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

ich in history, famed for its art and architecture, and with an enviable gastronomic scene, Normandy beguiles visitors with all manner of tastes. Famous sites such as the iconic Mont Saint-Michel and the impressive Rouen Cathedral rightly grab attention on the front of guidebooks and postcards, however you must ensure there’s plenty of time during your stay to see not only these monumental jewels, but also to appreciate Normandy’s less familiar sites. MAGAZINE

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Main: Vast skies and flat surrounding farmlands make for a dramatic approach to the Mont Saint-Michel (photo © Marc Lerouge/CRT Normandie); below: the Musée des Beaux Arts de Rouen has one of the world’s finest Impressionism collections (photo © V Joannon/CRT Normandie).

Mont Saint-Michel should certainly be your first port of call. Indeed, a night on the island, followed by a tour of the 8th century fortified abbey at its summit, is definitely an experience for your bucket list. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Mont Saint-Michel and its bay is one of the most picturesque sites in Normandy. Be sure to check the bay’s fearsome and spectacular tidal schedules ahead of time – with a 15-metre difference between high and low, these are Europe’s most dramatic. Built around the River Seine, Rouen was one of the most important cities in medieval Europe and its heritage is particularly well preserved. Notre Dame Cathedral was painted 28 times by Claude Monet, and its cathedral choir is one of 82

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the finest in France. Try to catch the choir at Evensong. Other attractions in Rouen include the famous Gros Horloge, an astronomical clock made in the 1300s, the Historial Joanne d’Arc, where visitors can learn about the fate of Rouen’s argu ably most famous daughter, and the superb art collection at the Musée des Beaux-Arts. Along with Renaissance greats such as Rubens and Caravaggio, the museum houses a substantial Impressionist collection, with works by Monet, Degas, Sisley and others. Expand your tour of Normandy with a hike along the famous white cliffs at Étretat en route to Le Havre, the bustling sea port. The city center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and hosts lively cultural festivals around the year. Caen boasts an imposing castle built by William the Conqueror in 1060, as well as two important medieval abbeys. Honfleur, with its colourfully painted houses looking out over the sailing boats in the harbour, is beloved of artists. It has strong ties with

the Impressionists, as does the charming village of Giverny, home for 43 years to Claude Monet, where art lovers can still visit his garden and home.

FIVE-STAR NORMANDY Normandy is an ideal destination for those who appreciate the finer things in life, from luxurious hotels in beautifully restored ancient buildings, to shopping in the designer boutiques for which France is renowned. Did you know that Coco Chanel opened one of her first boutiques in Deauville, known for its prestigious horse-racing scene? Or that Christian Dior’s family lived in Granville? The Christian Dior Museum there is an absolute mustsee for fashion lovers, and you can’t help but feel creatively inspired as you wander around Dior’s candy-floss pink house and perfectly colourmatched gardens, overlooking magnificent seas. Admire the latest trends at Galeries Lafayette in Caen, or shop for perfumes and accessories at Printemps, which has a huge store in Rouen. Many of the best-known department stores and designers have their outlets or specialty boutiques in Normandy. Shopping can be tiring work, which makes it all the more important to find somewhere both sumptuous and relaxing to stay. The Côte Fleurie (Flower Coast) has some remarkable heritage and five-star properties, often with sea views, such as Le Grand Hotel Cabourg, where novelist

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EVENTS TO BOOKMARK In 2018-19 Normandy is hosting all manner of events, drawing spectators and guests from around the world. Here is a taste of what’s in store:

> 25-30 September 2018: The Ryder Cup takes

place in nearby Paris, so you can watch the competition then take to the greens yourself on one of 50 local courses.

October and November 2018: Seafood lovers flock to Honfleur, Dieppe Fécamp and

other seaside towns for their annual festival of prawns and fishing. Prepare to have your tastebuds dazzled. Combine this with the many cider festivals happening in nearby villages.

December 2018: The Christmas Market in Rouen is open daily throughout December, accompanied by seasonal entertainment and food. You might also like the light show at Bayeux Cathedral, starting early in the month.

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> 6 June 2019: On the 75th anniversary of the D-Day Landings and the Battle of Normandy we pay tribute to those who brought liberty to France and Europe. Poignant memorial events will take place along Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword Beaches, where nearly 155,000 Allied troops landed by the evening of 6 June 1944.

> 6 – 19 June 2019: In Rouen, join the Armada at the world’s finest Tall Ships festival, on the banks of the River Seine.

Main: festival to mark the liberation in 1944 of Carentan from German forces, ahead of the D-Day landings (photo © Thierry Houyel), Inset: northernstyle hospitality at Château La Chenevière (photo © La Chenevière).

Marcel Proust once stayed, and hôtel Barrière Le Normandy, which looks like something out of a fairytale. Nearby, Château La Chenevière or Château d’Audrieu are the obvious choices of place to stay if you’re planning a tour of the Normandy Landing Beaches. Luxury is not just about facilities and opulent surroundings, however: sometimes it’s about privacy, service, and character. Normandy’s Hôtels de Charme have been carefully selected because they have a certain je ne sais quoi you’ll adore. From manor houses to privately owned chateaux, each one of these hotels is unique. MAGAZINE

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Top: cider and calvados at a shop in Honfleur (photo © Pierre Jeanson); below: a heart-shaped round of Neufchâtel cheese, typical of the genre (photo © D Dumas/CRT Normandie).

FEASTS OF FANCY No trip to Normandy would be complete without the joys of eating and drinking, and that is especially true in Normandy. This is the home of mouthwatering freshly caught seafood from the Channel, and celebrated regional cheeses such as Neufchâtel, Livarot, Pont-l’Évêque and Camembert (often meals in themselves), matched with unforgettable apple cider and calvados. All are locally produced, with each village or family having perfected their recipes over centuries. Prepare to tuck in to endless samples, and to say “Santé!” in your very best French accent. Calvados — the apple brandy produced only in Normandy — is distilled from dry apple cider and served as a cocktail or digestif. Calvados aficionados, and those simply wanting to know more and try tastings, should plan a visit to the brand-new Calvados Experience, which opened at Pont-l’Evêque near Deauville in March. Covering 2,500 square metres, this multisensory museum explores the history of calvados since medieval times. The Calvados Experience is situated on the site of Père Magloire, one of France’s most 84

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famous and bestselling calvados brands. Normandy Tourism’s recently revamped website offers countless more sightseeing suggestions, and tons of practical information on how to enjoy them in magical Normandy, any time of the year.

Further Information Normandy Tourism www.normandy-tourism.org

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aptouring.com.au/Europe2019 1300 214 938 | See your local travel agent Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. APT6595

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BEST DOMESTIC TOUR OPERATOR 2012-16

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SIR JOHN MONASH (1865-1931)

Somme

LEGACY of the heroes JUST AS FRANCE NEARS THE END OF ITS MONUMENTAL WORLD WAR ONE COMMEMORATIONS, AUSTRALIA OPENS ITS INSPIRATIONAL NEW SIR JOHN MONASH CENTRE TO ENSURE THE LEGACY LIVES ON.

ustralia is a long way from France, some 15,000 kilometres, yet a large part of its collective memory rests in the fields of the Somme. This is understandable, as it was on the Western Front battlefields 100 years ago that more than 295,000 Australians served in World War One. For at least 46,000 of them, these fields became their final resting place.

NOT A ‘TRADITIONAL’ MUSEUM The new Sir John Monash Centre uses allnew technology to present the story of ordinary Australians in extraordinary circumstances. For visitors, the experience begins when they arrive at the Australian National Memorial site, and personalise their journey via the free SJMC mobile app. After passing some of the 2,144 soldiers’ graves in the Villers-Bretonneux Military Cemetery, and the names of 10,732 soldiers who died in France with no known grave, visitors descend trench-like ramps into the light-filled centre.

The centre is named in honour of Sir John Monash, the Australian commander who took a radically new approach to modern warfare. Monash’s achievements in World War One speak for themselves. He commanded the 4th Brigade through the Gallipoli campaign before moving to the Western Front in 1916, where he was promoted to Major General and given command of the 3rd Division. As commander, Monash led his troops through battles such as Messines and the Third Battle of Ypres. In 1918 he was promoted Lieutenant General, and given command of the Australian Corps – the first Australian appointed to the position on the Western Front. Monash championed the integrated use of different weaponry, and at the Battle of Hamel in July 1918, he earned his enduring reputation as an innovator, leading his troops to success in what has since been labelled ‘a textbook victory’. It was his meticulous planning and leadership skills that saw Monash knighted in the field in 1918.

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THE AUSTRALIAN REMEMBRANCE TRAIL Today, the Somme region is rich with traces of Australia’s presence – in former battlefields, cemeteries, memorials, museums and relics discovered in the fields. Many of these sites now form the Australian Remembrance Trail along the Western Front, stretching from Ypres in Belgium to Bellenglise in northern France. More than 1.5 million Australians visit sites on the trail each year, making the pilgrimage to understand their country’s loss or to follow in the footsteps of their military ancestors.

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Visitors then browse interactive displays about Australian society before the war, the reasons for Australia’s involvement in the war, where and when Australians fought, and how they contributed to the eventual Allied victory. The centrepiece is an immersive gallery where more than 180 screens deliver content simultaneously, including soldiers’ voices recalling their experiences. These dramatic soundscapes and footage were made with the resources of acclaimed film makers including Sir Peter Jackson (Lord of the Rings) and Nigel Christensen (Mad Max: Fury Road).

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Further Information The Sir John Monash Centre lies 150 kilometres north of Paris in Villers Bretonneux. Entry is free. Visit the website for bookings (recommended during peak periods, such as Anzac Day and Armistice Day). Visitors should arrive with fully charged mobile devices and their own earphones. www.sjmc.gov.au

Opposite: the impressive Sir John Monash Centre, opening in 2018. Below: footage being filmed in New Zealand for one of the displays; the nearby village of Saint Valery sur Somme (photo © Somme Tourisme); interior displays at the new centre.

The Sir John Monash Centre, built alongside the Australian National Memorial at VillersBretonneux, serves as an introduction to the trail, sharing the full story of Australia’s World War One experience on the Western Front. www.sjmc.gov.au/atravellersguide

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DESIGNER RUGS - THE HOME OF LUXURY RUGS VISIT OUR SHOWROOMS TO EXPERIENCE OUR COLLECTION OF READY-MADE AND CUSTOM DESIGNER RUGS SYDNEY | MELBOURNE | BRISBANE | AUCKLAND 1300 802 561 | designerrugs.com.au/france

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Interview

My French travel HIGHLIGHTS WE CAUGHT UP WITH HIS EXCELLENCY, MR CHRISTOPHE PENOT, AMBASSADOR OF FRANCE TO AUSTRALIA SINCE 2017, TO TAP INTO HIS DEEP KNOWLEDGE OF FRENCH TRAVEL AND CULTURE.

Your favourite French region? Provence, because of its intense sunlight and sublime colours. The hinterlands are particularly beautiful.

Travel highlights in 2018? All the major summer events, and the Ryder Cup in Paris in September. In winter, I would recommend Lyon’s Fête des Lumières or Strasbourg’s Marché de Noël.

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Photo © Atout France/Phovoir

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Photo © Muriel Chaulet

Are you more a Bordeaux or Burgundy food and wine fan? An impossible choice for the true amateur! I love both, of course, if possible paired with cuisine from the same region. World War One events of special interest to Australians? Australian visitors will receive a warm welcome, wherever they go. We will always be grateful for the enormous contribution made by Australia.

Top French destination for an active summer? The city of Annecy, and hiking in the southern part of the French Alps.

France’s most underrated city? Arles, the ancient Roman city where Van Gogh painted most of his masterpieces, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

World War One commemoration events not to be missed in late 2018? The 100th anniversary of the battle of Amiens on 8 August, and the international celebration of Armistice Day on 11 November. Photo © OT Arles/L Roux

Emerging trends in French cuisine? French cuisine continues to cultivate its values of quality and creativity. Among recent trends, I detect a clear return to classicism.

Top French destination for an active winter? The ski stations in the French Alps. If you prefer the Mediterranean climate in winter, the cities of Menton and Nice.

Favourite memories of the Tour de France? As a child, I remember chasing the big stars for their autographs when we were lucky enough to find ourselves at the arrival of a race stage.

Photo © OTNC

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Top and right: Eliette tennis fashions from 1972 and 1970 (photos © Eliette); courting fashion illustration from magazine Jardin des Modes,1930 (image © Pierre Mourgue).

Tennis

The FASHION set ATHLEISURE IS NOTHING NEW, IF THE FASHIONS SEEN AT ROLANDGARROS PARIS ARE ANYTHING TO GO BY – ESPECIALLY IN 2018, THE 30TH BIRTHDAY OF THE LA GRIFFE ROLANDGARROS COLLECTION.

ennis has had a fashionable edge ever since its elegant origins as a lawn sport. Inspired by British player Maud Watson at Wimbledon in 1884, white became synonymous with fitness for high society, and much tennis clothing adhered to this rule in the subsequent decades. The photos shown here were originally displayed at a 2015 exhibition at the Museum of the French Tennis Federation, and reveal how much tennis fashions have evolved during that time. Early images show the long-skirted garb for women and flannel-trousered attire for men, always with a hat and blazer, before tennis gear became more suited to activity. In 1912, France’s Marguerite Broquedis exchanged her lace-up boots for flat shoes, and wore a short-sleeved shirt with a skirt that fell just above her ankles. After World War One, dresses became shorter still. Corsets and hats were ditched, and fashionable touches added – such as turbans or coloured belts. By the middle of the 20th century, tennis had established its own distinctive look – with pastels, stripes, ultrashort dresses and deliberate pairing with undergarments. Brand names such as Jean Patou, Dorotennis, Éliette and Moncler became synonymous with tennis style.

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GRAND SLAM STYLE The current crop of day-glo and animal print gear being worn at the French Open owes its origins perhaps to the 1990s. Flamboyant players such as André Agassi and Ivan Lendl started wearing fluorescent or colourful patterned detailing. Maria Sharapova experimented with outfits ranging from sailor girl to tuxedo, and the Venus sisters shocked in styles inspired by punk, hip hop and bordello alike. New technology transformed the fabrics, which were increasingly aerodynamic, isothermal and elastic, triggering the emergence of eyecatching new styles. The headline-making skater dresses of star Serena Williams, racy mesh ensemble of Czech Denisa Allertová and plunging neckline of French Mathilde Johansson were all made possible with new fabrics. Some styles went on to achieve long-term commercial success – such as Rafael Nadal’s El Decimo sneakers from Nike. Wearing strong colours enhances a sense of power for Venus Williams who, with seven Grand Slam titles and four Olympic golds, drew on her fashion design degree when launching her own activewear line. Other tennis styles have proven too daring for the taste-makers – such as the zebra print of Germany’s Angelique Kerber or France’s Jo-Wilfried Tsonga, and the tie-dyed outfit of the UK’s Helen Watson.

LA GRIFFE ROLAND Clockwise from main: Tennis fashions from 1936 featured in a Mode & Roman magazine spread; Femina magazine from 1912 featuring tennis champion Marguerite Broquedis, renowned as one of the first to shorten skirts and lighten footwear; Ann Carol tennis form in the 1960s.

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BIRTH OF A FRENCH TENNIS BRAND Among the French brands to modernise tennis fashion, Dorotennis, Éliette (pictured) and Moncler come to mind as modernising men’s and women’s tennis fashions alike. But perhaps most famous of all these brands is Lacoste. The brand was founded by star player René Lacoste, who won the French Open in 1924 at the age of 20, and founded his eponymous brand not long after. Known for his style and perfectionism, Lacoste was nicknamed ‘the alligator’ following a bet involving an alligator-skin suitcase, and a symbol for his tennis brand was born. His iconic L12.12 polo shirt debuted in the 1940s, and has been a fashion stalwart since – on and off the courts. Apart from Lacoste’s known product and fashion innovations, the brand has also climbed in status as a prestige name, and is now equally known for its glamorous boutiques, advertising campaigns and luxury items such as perfume. Flip Flap tennis fashion from1971.

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Clockwise from top: France’s Gil de Kermadec plays Czech-born Jaroslav Drobny in 1954; shoot from a 1970s Eliette collection; 1920s fashions from Collection JP Chevallier.

GARROS TURNS 30 The sports fashions worn over the years at Roland-Garros have not gone unnoticed by the media, nor by the fashion scene itself. Great fashion names who have jumped on the tennis bandwagon include Christian Dior, Hugo Boss and Daniel Hechter, all of whom have been chosen to dress tournament staff here, over the years. In 2018, the Griffe Roland-Garros collection celebrates 30 years of providing tennis wear inspired directly by the French Open – its red clay, Centre Court and fashionconscious visitors. The result is a retro collection made distinctive by its generous use of whites, cotton, and subtle ochre-andnavy striped edging – a charming twist on the French tricolour.

Further Information Roland-Garros Paris www.rolandgarros.com

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8 WAYS TO SEE THE FRENCH OPEN IN STYLE 1. Book in March – that’s when the first tickets go on sale. Be sure to read the rules around purchases, as admission is strictly limited to the person named on the ticket. 2. Book two consecutive days – since it’s hard to know which player will appear on which days, booking two consecutive days increases your likelihood of catching a player you’re interested in. 3. Pack a picnic – make like a local, and stock up on your favourite goodies from Paris’ magnificent food halls, cheese markets, bakeries and purveyors of fine champagne. 4. Keep it casual – save your formal jackets or heels; here it’s all about hip understatement. Streetwear trends for 2018 include baggy trousers, micro handbags and gold chains on accessories.

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5. Prepare for any temperature – ideally you’ll be flaunting chic sunglasses and summery fashions, but there’s also the chance you’ll shiver through a freak cold or wet spell. Bring items for all weather. 6. Beat the paparazzi – join throngs of fans at the Eiffel Tower, and see all your favourite stars in dazzling party attire at the annual bash held days before the tournament. 7. Cruise every court– a show court ticket lets you access the 18 other courts outside the main stadium, and you might just catch glimpses of Rafa practising alongside Novak on any of them. 8. Download the Roland-Garros app – this will place upcoming ticket info and alerts into the palm of your hand, and serve you up with realtime streamed results, video and radio.

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Main: Gael Monfils giving the famous Roland-Garros clay courts a workout (photo © Christophe Saidi). Below, from right: Grand Slam party; fast-paced French Open matches are hard to look away from (photo © Amelie Laurin); wine and dine at one of the Stadium’s many restaurants (photo © Eric Della Torre).

Tennis

SLAM into France THE ICONIC ROLAND-GARROS PARIS STADIUM IS IN THE MIDST OF A MAJOR OVERHAUL, TO INCREASE CAPACITY ON THE CENTRAL COURT AND ADD A SWATHE OF NEW ATTRACTIONS FOR VISITING TENNIS FANS.

s one of the world’s top four Grand Slam tournaments, the French Open is arguably on the bucket list of any tennis fan. The atmosphere is subtly fashionable, for one. Fans are much more likely to flaunt cult streetwear labels than, say, the Australian Open crowds (who love their wild body paint) or Wimbledon (eccentric headgear). Players also go to great lengths to impress, as revealed by the zebra-stripe trend of two years back. In fact, the French Open has launched some of the most memorable sportswear trends over the years. From argyle print and pinstripes in the 1970s to the day-glo colours and high-tech fabrics of late, competitors have embraced the tournament’s rejection of traditional all-white tennis garb. But perhaps the tournament’s greatest claim to fame is its status as the only Grand Slam played on a clay court, which demands a different focus from players more used to synthetic surfaces or grass courts. Its extra slip factor makes for compelling viewing, and might be the reason the French Open is the

most televised of all Grand Slams. It attracts 20 million television viewers globally, and half a million visitors on site for its two-week duration each May and June. The 10,000-seat stadium has been overhauled several times since opening in 1928, and is now set for a slew of changes that are perhaps the most ambitious yet. Apart from increasing seating capacity in the main stadium to 15,000, and adding a high-tech retractable roof, Roland-Garros will open an additional 5,000-seat stadium on a newly annexed area. This is right inside the Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil botanical garden. Visitors will be able to admire its four vintage greenhouses, and stop to smell its gracious flowers en route to their game. It’s definitely a space to watch for 2018 and beyond.

Further Information Roland-Garros Paris www.rolandgarros.com

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Paris

Shake it OFF PARIS OFFERS BRILLIANT OPPORTUNITIES FOR BIG- AND SMALLTICKET SPORTY PURSUITS. GET ACTIVE AHEAD OF THE 2024 PARIS OLYMPICS AT THESE SCENIC SPOTS. BY MICHELLE LOLLO

Top: rollerblading groups in central Paris (photo © Paris Tourist Office/David Lefranc); pre-Olympic festivity at the Les Invalides complex (photo © Paris 2024).

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The impressive Piscine Josephine Baker Olympic pool, floating off a bank along the Seine (photo © Paris Tourist Office/Marc Bertrand).

eing active is an integral part of Paris life. From horse racing in Chantilly to the Tour de France finale along the Champs Elysées, football at the Paris Saint-Germain stadium or worldclass tennis at the Roland-Garros French Open, visitors to the City of Light can flex their sportsloving muscles any time of the year.

RUN FOR FUN Sandwiched between two green ‘lungs’, the Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes, Paris offers vast swaths of safe, leafy spaces for runners to enjoy. These two woods (easily accessible by underground metro) are cherished playgrounds for locals, with Boulogne alone offering 57 kilometres of trails (and the famous Frank Gehry-designed $135 million Foundation Louis Vuitton museum). But you can really lace up from almost anywhere and, within 30 to 60 minutes, tick off half the major tourist sites. For those staying on the Left Bank, the stunning 7th arrondissement Luxembourg Gardens is where the well-heeled run. If you’re staying in the Louvre, Opera or Concorde quarters of the 1st and 2nd arrondissements, then the Tuileries Gardens is perfect. Extend your route by crossing the river at the Musée D’Orsay and along the car-free quay, 6.6 kilometres to the Eiffel Tower. For experienced runners, join the Paris International Marathon each April (www. parismarathon.com), or Versailles fun run each October (www.parisversailles.com).

SKATER CENTRAL Did you know you can join hundreds – sometimes thousands – of rollerbladers in Paris, every Sunday afternoon, for free? Take the stress out of sightseeing and join them in whizzing past cathedrals, museums and monuments, with a police escort stopping traffic during the threehour route. The tour sees skaters of all ages and levels clocking up an impressive 20-odd kilometres. For more advanced skaters, Friday Night Fever is like a night out clubbing, minus the beer, with the action often continuing until 1am. The route changes weekly but the meeting spots are the same – Sunday at Boulevard Bourdon. www.rollers-coquillages.org/

CYCLE HEAVEN Not only does Paris boast around 400 kilometres of dedicated bike lanes and canal paths, dedicated to cycling safely, it also offers 1,800 rental docking stations. For a small fee, you can pick up a bike and see the city just like a local. With an extended car-free zone along the Seine to be finished by autumn this year, why not pack a picnic lunch, and cycle all the way from the Eiffel Tower to the Cathedral of Notre Dame. Cyclists can also channel their inner Cadel Evans and push on up the hill toward Montmartre or Belleville, where views of Paris will make the puffing and panting worth it (en.parisinfo.com).

MAKE A SPLASH No matter where you stay in Paris, you don’t need to go far to enjoy some laps in attractive surrounds. Piscine Molitor, in the well-heeled 16th arrondissement, is a 46-metre Art Deco masterpiece. A day pass here will set you back €180, although most Paris pools cost just a few euros to enjoy. Swimmers at Piscine Killer on the Left Bank will benefit from Olympic proportions, luxurious change rooms and ozone-filtered water instead of chlorine. A sliding roof allows the rays to pour in when the sun’s out. The Piscine Georges Vallerey has great Seine River views and is a sporting favourite, having been built for the 1924 Paris Olympics. One of the most recognisable is the floating Josephine Baker, a dramatic steel structure in the 13th, that makes you feel as though you’re swimming in an azure-coloured Seine.

WALK IT OFF It’s no wonder the French invented the word flaneur, which means ‘strolling without a purpose’. From the cobblestone streets to the stunning arcades and enticing bakeries luring you in different directions, walking in Paris never gets boring. So when all else fails, lose yourself in the beauty of Paris - it’s the best chance you’ll ever have of hearing her authentic heartbeat.

Further Information Paris 2024 www.paris2024.org

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SINCE ITS INAUGURATION IN 1926, GOLF’S RYDER CUP HAS NEVER BEEN HOSTED IN FRANCE – UNTIL NOW – AND WILL DRAW RECORD CROWDS TO VERSAILLES THIS SEPTEMBER. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

he French have being playing golf for well over 500 years; in fact, the experts at Golf Today think the game might even have been invented in France. Medieval illustrations and friezes depict civilised royals playing golf and other peaceful lawn sports as an antithesis of the violent football-like games beloved by the public. Golf has since become a national obsession. There are more than 600 French golf courses and half a million club members. Golf World rated Le Château and Le Riou – twin courses at Terre Blanche in Provence (see separate story) – as the Best Golf Resort in Continental Europe in 2017. But in 2018, France has to up its game even further. For the first time, it’ll be hosting the Ryder Cup, the most famous golfing championship in the world. 100

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A CROSS-ATLANTIC COMPETITION The Ryder Cup was first played in 1927, and pitted the US against the UK. Participation was widened in 1979, however, and now the EU fields a joint team with the UK. The championship takes place biennially, alternating between locations in the US and Europe. Wins in recent years have been neck and neck, with 11 victorious celebrations for either side since 1973. The competition takes place over three days: this year, put 28 – 30 September in your diary. Each team has 12 players, and each 18-hole match is worth one point. Teams need 14.5 points to take home the trophy. Ahead of the main competition, golf fans can also watch emerging champions at the Ryder Cup Junior on September 24 – 25, in which young men and women under 18 compete for their own title.

THE RYDER CUP IN FRANCE As 2018 is the first time for the Ryder Cup to take place on French soil, it’s only right that Le Golf National (www.golf-national.com) hosts the event. Conveniently close to Paris and Versailles, this is the official home of the French Golf Federation (FFG) and a permanent venue for the French Open. Le Golf National’s first course – the Albatross – opened in 1991, and the site has subsequently expanded as the Aigle (eagle) and the Oiselet (birdie) were completed. Further improvements have been made in preparation for the Ryder Cup, and Le Golf National will also be an official venue for the Paris Olympics in 2024. Le Golf National can comfortably accommodate 80,000 spectators and has excellent transport connections. It holds a four-star Novotel hotel, with many of the

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rooms overlooking the Albatross. Here, Le Pitch restaurant is a great spot to bump into your favourite players between training and matches, and to feast on fine French cuisine. Other hospitality options nearby include private chalets, and you can guarantee the very best French Champagne will be flowing freely throughout the tournament.

WHERE TO PLAY During the Ryder Cup you won’t be able to play at Le Golf National itself, but there are superb alternatives nearby. Club Bluegreen (www. bluegreen.com) offers two 18-hole courses at Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, both designed by Hubert Chesneau, the same architect responsible for Le Golf National. The Blue course is long and straightforward; the Red has narrow holes and demands accuracy and good tactical understanding. You might also want to try the highly regarded Golf de Saint Cloud (www.golfdesaintcloud.com), created in 1911 and surrounded by idyllic scenery of woods and hills.

Further Information Ryder Cup www.rydercup.com

Opposite: Le Golf National, the venue for this year’s Ryder Cup (photo © Fédération Française de Golf).

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Top: France’s next generation of rugby greats (perhaps!) practice at a recent friendly game (photo © French Rugby Federation); President of France, Emmanuel Macron celebrates the 2023 decision (photo © French Rugby Federation).

Rugby In FULL play CAN’T WAIT ‘TIL THE 2023 RUGBY WORLD CUP IN FRANCE? THEN MAKE SURE YOUR NEXT TRIP TAKES IN A GAME, BECAUSE THE SPORT IS ALIVE AND TRULY WELL. BY PAUL ARNOLD AND STEPHANIE OLEY

ith a good five years to go until the 2023 Rugby World Cup in France, it’s not surprising that eyes are on the current crop of French talents, ahead of next year’s cup, in Japan. After all, some of the names who could headline in 2023 might only just be out of primary school. But no matter, because this gutsy, raw game makes for brilliant viewing just about anywhere in France. Firstly, there are the thrilling regional differences, with France’s south more ferocious than the north or Paris. Then there’s the smaller size of local stadiums, with 5,000 to 15,000 seats being the norm. And finally, there are the uniquely French touches: the jazz instead of rock, wines instead of beer, and the folksy songs chanted by crowds. 102

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Top: southwest French teams Biarritz plays Basque at Stade Biarritz (photo © PhotoBernard); Below: the Rugby World Cup poses in Paris (photo © French Rugby Federation).

THE ROAD TO 2023 France is a proud rugby nation, and justifiably so. It has enjoyed periods of great success with a formidable national side. Highlights include 17 wins of the Six Nations Championship (and its predecessor, the Five Nations Championship), qualifying for every World Cup knock-out stage since the competition’s inauguration in 1987, and once peaking at number two in the World Rankings. Currently, the team is going through a difficult period. But writing France off would be a mistake because with the 2019 Rugby World Cup around the corner, there is still plenty of time to revert to global domination. Talented players and the will to win are certainly there – you only have to look at the Top 14 for evidence of that. The country’s premier league is exploding with young, exciting and dazzling players who could help drive the national side to success.

Among them are Matthieu Jalibert, the 19-yearold genius of a fly-half who plays for Union Bordeaux Bègles. Or Sekou Macalou, a flanker for Stade Français, known for his power, athleticism and speed. Then there is the towering and commanding presence of Sébastien Vahaamahina, the 2.03metre tall lock with ASM Clermont Auvergne. Let’s not forget the galvanising effect of hosting the World Cup in 2023, and what that will do for the sport in France. French sports minister Laura Flessel-Colovic (a former Olympian) describes the 2023 event as, “an incredible opportunity to accelerate further still rugby’s development in our country”. France has yet to win a Rugby World Cup, but it has talent, time and determination on its side, backed by a country that is four-square behind the players. We won’t be betting against them. MAGAZINE

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From top: Australian resident French chef, Guillaume Brahimi, is a devoted rugby fan (photo © NikkiTo); following the games could take you to the renowned vineyards of Burgundy and its famed produce, such as this Comté cheese (both photos © Alain Doire/ Bourgogne-Franche-Comté Tourisme).

WORDS FROM THE WISE We caught up with rugby greats John Eales, legendary Wallabies captain; and George Gregan, most-capped international Australian player. They describe the French rugby scene from a personal angle, as does certified rugby fan and French-born master chef, Guillaume Brahimi.

GEORGE GREGAN “I stayed in Toulon for 10 months ahead of the 2007 World Cup, and my family joined me there. It was a gorgeous Mediterranean spot, with the mountains to one side and the sea to the other. Best of all, we got the Toulon team into Division 1 and they’ve been there ever since. “Toulon is all about rugby. The audiences famously chant ‘Pilou Pilou’ before a match, like the All Blacks’ haka, creating a cauldron of excitement. “Assistant coach Scott Wisemantel gave me the ultimate tip: don’t socialise too much with other expats if you want to soak up the culture. It was great advice. We ate out at local bistros every night, and bought bread at the boulangeries every day. Soon we were speaking to the locals in sentences, not single words. “One of the best ways to enjoy the World Cup here is to follow your belly, not the blockbuster games. You can see games, then dine on incredible regional food and wine, in Biarritz, Bordeaux, Burgundy and even Catalonia, just over the border from Spain.”

JOHN EALES “I’ve played and toured France since about 1990, and am always struck by how much passion the French have for rugby. “Supporters in the south are especially earthy in nature – it’s definitely the main sport here. When the teams are within earshot of their town’s church bells, they’re charged with a great sense of responsibility. “The French seem to appreciate how inclusive rugby is – that it has a place for all shapes and sizes. Unlike in other sporting codes, rugby players are both specialists and generalists, being expected to step into different roles all the time. There’s a strong fraternal sense too, owing to how remote the training can be. “Enjoying rugby in France goes hand in hand with experiencing the different regional foods and wines. I’ve been as impressed by a dish of rustic Andouillette sausages in Toulouse, as I have by a visit to the stunning Château Mouton-Rothschild in Bordeaux.” 104

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GUILLAUME BRAHIMI “Of all the sports I follow in France, I’ll stop what I’m doing to watch the rugby. More than the Tour de France; more than the tennis. I especially like to watch my home team, Biarritz, although they’ve had a tough 10 years. Each Rugby World Cup, there’s always hope that a new champion will lead us to victory!”

Further Information Rugby World Cup www.rugbyworldcup.com

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ALL IN THE NUMBERS While the national side works on getting back to greatness, the country is certainly ready to host rugby’s most prestigious competition. Half a million visitors are likely to attend World Cup fixtures in 2023, placing its nine state-of-the-art venue stadiums well and truly under the spotlight. > Stade Matmut Atlantique, Bordeaux Capacity: 42,115 Previously hosted the 2016 European football championships. > Stade Pierre-Mauroy, Lille Capacity: 50,000 A former venue for the 2016 European football championships and 2015 European basketball championships. > Parc OL, Lyon Capacity: 59,186 In 2016, the complex hosted the European football championships. > Stade Vélodrome, Marseille Capacity: 67,000 Prestigious events hosted here to date include the 2016 European football championships and the 2007 Rugby World Cup. > Stade de La Beaujoire – Louis-Fonteneau, Nantes Capacity: 38, 128 This stadium has hosted many important sporting occasions, including 2007 Rugby World Cup matches. > Allianz Riviera, Nice Capacity: 36,000 – 45,000 One of the host venues for the 2016 European football championships. > Stade de France, Saint-Denis Capacity: 81,338 France’s national stadium has hosted the 1998 Football World Cup, 2003 World Athletics Championships and 2007 Rugby World Cup. > Stade Geoffroy-Guichard, Saint-Étienne Capacity: 41,965 Venue for the 1998 Football World Cup, 2007 Rugby World Cup and 2015 European Cup rugby semi-final. From top: the Orange Vélodrome in Marseille, a venue for the 2023 cup; the southern city of Toulouse is one of the host venues (photo © Atout France/Franck Charel).

> Stadium Municipal, Toulouse Capacity: 33,150 Venue for several games at the 1998 Football World Cup and 2007 Rugby World Cup.

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Chamonix License to THRILL

CHAMONIX IS THE ULTIMATE FRENCH WINTER PLAYGROUND, WITH MORE SKI RUNS, MORE APRÈS SKI EXCITEMENT AND MORE AMENITIES THAN ANY OTHER RESORT.

tanding head and shoulders above its neighbouring French Alpine crags, the Mont Blanc massif easily announces itself as the tallest mountain in western Europe. Unsurprisingly, the mountain and its main resort, Chamonix, have attracted winter sports enthusiasts from around the world for decades. Often regarded as the spiritual home of downhill skiing, Chamonix is one of the oldest winter resorts in France, and was given the prestigious responsibility of hosting the first Winter Olympics back in 1924. With ski areas stretching throughout the valley, Chamonix has an exceptional variety of runs, suitable for everyone from absolute novices to off-piste adventurers. Add to this a range of ski schools, accommodation options and metropolitan entertainments, making Chamonix a superb modern playground as well as a historic one. 106

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SLOPES AND SIGHTS Chamonix is a premium destination. It’s a mainstay of Mont-Blanc Natural Resort, operated by the Compagnie du Mont-Blanc. The company’s Mont-Blanc Unlimited package boasts access to more than 1,000 kilometres of pistes in the 10 ski areas in Vallorcine, Chamonix, Les Houches and Megève in France, as well as adjoining ski runs in Italy’s Courmayeur and Verbier in Switzerland. Costs include a ride on the popular Tramway du Mont-Blanc, the highest rack railway in France, taking passengers to the foot of Mont Blanc (from which you can access the Bellevue Plateau), and the Montenvers rack and pinion railway. This line takes passengers to the Mer de Glace glacier, Ice Cave and Glaciorium science and exhibition centre. Away from the snow and ice, Chamonix’s bustling pedestrianised centre is alive with appealing store fronts, luxurious spas and cafés that see their tables spill out onto the sunny side

streets. The heart of the evening après ski scene is Rue des Moulins, where locals and visitors rub shoulders, and you can relax with a glass of the local tipple long into the night.

GETTING THERE Chamonix Valley is well connected from major transport hubs. It is just half an hour from Italy via the Mont Blanc road tunnel and only an hour from the international airport in Geneva, and is one of the only French ski resorts boasting its own railway station. Access to the slopes, as well as hikingfriendly backcountry and nearby villages, is made all the easier by a series of free buses and trains.

Further Information Mont-Blanc Natural Resort www.montblancnaturalresort.com

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UP CLOSE WITH ADVENTURE The highlight of off-piste visits is perhaps the 20-minute cable car journey from Chamonix to the Aiguille du Midi, a rocky lookout point with panoramic views of Mont Blanc – the gateway to the high Alps, at 3,842 metres above sea level. The truly fearless might relish taking a heart-stopping Step Into The Void by entering a glass ‘cage’ that hangs over a 1,000-metre precipice. The mild and wild at heart can enjoy the best of Savoie cookery mountain-high at Restaurant 3842m, or the gondola lift ride over the stunning Glacier du Géant to Pointe Helbronner in Italy.

Opposite: snowboarding in the Balme freestyle zone at Chamonix (photo © McPix). Top: Aiguille du Midi is perched atop a crag facing Mont Blanc (photo © Maxime Coquard) and offers a thrilling glass lookout point (photo © Mont Blanc Natural Resort). MAGAZINE

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Shop NOT TRAVELLING TO FRANCE IN 2018? GET A FRENCH STYLE FIX WITH THESE FINE ITEMS FOR KITCHEN AND CLOSET INSTEAD.

MOOD by Christofle is both young and prestigious.

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Objets d’art Flaunt

Loubitag by Louboutin

A world of flavour lies within these divine little tins.

Tableware

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Most of us think of Christofle as the luxury silverware set on our tables for grand occasions. The French luxury silversmith, launched in 1830, is challenging this perception with introductions such as MOOD, a flatware concept like no other. Presented in an egg-shaped container, MOOD presents four sets of cutlery for six people, and looks as stunning on a kitchen counter as on a buffet table. Entirely dishwasher safe, the range is available in 24 karat gold plating, rose gold or silver. www.christofle.com.au

This sensational caviar butter from Nouvelle-Aquitaine is amazing as an aperitif, entrée or Sunday brunch. With a creamy butter texture and that unmistakable caviar flavour, it can be served on fresh bread, with pasta and risotto, eggs or potatoes and naturally with seafood. It is available in 50 gram tins and is exclusive in Australia to www.finefrenchfood.com.au

MOOD by Christofle

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Taking its style references from selfies, gender fluidity and other contemporary expressions of individuality, the Loubitag collection of bags and shoes is playful and hip. It’s also an opportunity to revisit 25 years of Louboutin designs, applying the

designer’s signature, playful doodles, lucky charms and even secret notes to classics such as So Kate, Jersey Vamp and Lahore. The Louis sneaker, a classic and muchloved men’s sneaker, likewise gets the Loubitag treatment in black or white patent leathers.

Caviar From New Aquitaine

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The Loubitag collection reinterprets Louboutin men’s and women’s classics through a series of whimsical graphics (photo © Jose Castellar).

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Ladurée’s pretty Napoleon Macaron Gift Box, featuring a silver frieze trim inspired by the age of Napoleon.

The Durand removes troublesome cork fragments, and is valued especially by vintage wine connoisseurs.

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The Durand The Durand is a patented device that’s exceptionally good at removing compromised and fragile corks, whole and intact, from valuable older wines. It has been repeatedly tested on the most challenging corks, eliminating cork fragments or corks pushed into bottles, to remove them whole and contained. A device appreciated by wine lovers, collectors, and international sommeliers alike. Available in Australia from Vintec. www.vintec.com.au

Wear

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Lacoste

Simple white polo shirt and sneakers by Lacoste.

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Armorik whisky is one of several elegant liquors crafted at the Warenghem distillery, Brittany.

Macarons by Ladurée Macarons are among the pâtissier’s greatest arts, with their exquisite balance of lightness, depth and flavour variation. Iconic macaron makers Ladurée, which perfected the genre in the 1930s, is known for packaging that’s as beautiful as its contents. The Napoleon Macaron Gift Box contains 12 assorted macarons and comes in pink, blue or green. It’s the perfect dinner party or Christmas gift. RRP $39.00 at Ladurée. www.laduree.fr

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Founded by French tennis legend René Lacoste in the 1920s, this collection of exquisite sportswear revolutionised the way tennis was played – and impacted the clothing industry itself. Today, the range of premium, sport inspired apparel, accessories and footwear collections continues to set trends for men, women and children. The brand’s famous L.12.12 polo shirt – available in dozens of different colours – never goes out of style.

Armorik Classic Armorik Classic Single Malt Whisky is a considered and crafted drop. Created at Distillerie Warenghem in Brittany, Armorik is an unequivocally French label – sophisticated, sharp and elegant. It’s aged in French oak casks for a smooth and intense finish. RRP $100 from Le Baron Des Spirits. www.lebarondesspirits.com

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Cabaret WILD child

CABARET AND FASHION COME TOGETHER THIS NORTHERN AUTUMN AT THE WILDLY ORIGINAL FASHION FREAK SHOW, SCRIPTED AND DIRECTED BY NONE OTHER THAN JEAN PAUL GAULTIER HIMSELF. BY GRETCHEN HOLM

ince the 1880s, cabaret has captivated audiences in its native Paris and throughout the world. The bold performances and iconic cabaret halls have also inspired some of the most iconic imagery about Paris, from Steinlen’s famous poster for La Tournée du Chat Noir to the 2001 film Moulin Rouge. And these famed venues are anything but relics – they host shows every year that offer a glimpse into the wild creativity of Paris.

BEAUTY AND REBELLION Hotly anticipated on the playbill at Folies Bergère (www.foliesbergere.com) later this year is Fashion Freak Show, directed by none other than maverick fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier. The first stage show of fashion’s enfant terrible masterfully blends his unorthodox and cutting 110

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perspective on society with his tender love for beauty in all of its unexpected forms, especially the beauty inherent in being different. Gaultier illuminates his own life story and the eccentric, beautiful and freaky characters who have shaped it. Fashion lovers will delight in the costumes, which range from Gaultier’s most iconic pieces (including Madonna’s cone bra) to brandnew creations. Yet Fashion Freak Show also goes far beyond the haute couture fashion for which the designer is so famous. Expect to hear a soundtrack spanning everything from punk to pop, as dancers twirl and circus artists amaze the audience. Much of the revue, from the music choices to the dancing to the visual effects, pays homage to those who have inspired Gaultier over the decades. Micheline Presle, who starred in a film that inspired a young Gaultier to pursue fashion, plays his

grandmother in a video shown on stage. Even the setting is significant. The Folies Bergère opened in 1869, and has been one of the most iconic performance venues in France ever since. Josephine Baker gave many of her performances here, and it was the setting for Manet’s A Bar at the Folies Bergère. Gaultier credits seeing a revue filmed here when he was just nine years old as the event that started him down his transgressive artistic path. Now, over half a century later, he comes full circle with this performance in the cabaret music hall that has impacted Parisian life and Gaultier himself.

Further Information Fashion Freak Show at the Folies Bergère opens 2 October 2018. www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/en-us/

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Opposite: opulent interior at the celebrated cabaret Folies Bergère (photo © Juan Sala); this page: fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier (photo © Peter Lindbergh); inset: playbill illustration by Marc Antoine (image © Marc Antoine/Coulon/Agence Brightman).

ON GAULTIER At just nine years of age, Jean Paul Gaultier discovered his talent for sketching (and for designing glamorous feathery costumes for his teddy bear) after watching a revue at the Folies Bergère on his grandmother’s TV. He began working for Pierre Cardin when he was 18 before establishing his own line, later becoming the head designer at Hermès, and even hosting the TV show, Eurotrash. Gaultier has never been one to follow conventions or go with the flow. His designs speak of an exuberant defiance, joyously flaunting social norms, challenging gender stereotypes, and incorporating punk influences into high fashion.

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IT’S NOT JUST ANY CRUISE, IT’S AN MSC CRUISE Our fleet of 16 ships offers affordable luxury year round in the Mediterranean, Caribbean & Cuba. Seasonally in Northern Europe, Arabian Peninsula, South America, South Africa & repositioning cruises. Flexi-porting means you can embark from your choice of Mediterranean port including Genoa, Naples, Civitavecchia/Rome, Venice, Bari, Brindisi or Ancona in Italy, Barcelona in Spain and Marseille in France every week. MEDITERRANEAN 8 ships year round Departs every Saturday & Sunday FREE transfer 14nt Grand Med

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CALL 1300 028 502 visit msccruises.com.au or see your travel agent *All details correct as at 29/9/17. Combine & Save on selected cruises saving $100 per person off second cruise. Must be booked within six weeks of each cruise with the same booking number, for first two adults only. Free transfer 14 or 21nt Grand Med only, by coach between Genoa and Venice (or vice versa). One way only and is free for first two adults. Children, 3rd and 4th adults must pay transfer cost one way (AU/NZ$150pp). Itineraries & departure ports subject to change at any time without notice. E&OE MSC Cruises (Aust) Pty Ltd ABN 55 003 526 725. General Sales Agent for MSC Cruises S.A | ATAS Accredited No. A10954.

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Monaco Take your BREATH away

GLAMOROUS MONACO MAY BE RENOWNED FOR HIGH ROLLERS, CELEBRITY SIGHTINGS AND MICHELIN-STARRED DINING, BUT ALSO OFFERS SOME UNFORGETTABLE ACTIVE PURSUITS. BY SUSAN GOUGH HENLEY

et on just 2 square kilometres of craggy land off the famous Riviera, Monaco might be tiny. However, it packs a punch in style and attitude. Monaco draws high rollers with its glamorous Belle Epoque Monte Carlo Casino, designed by Charles Garnier of Paris Opera fame, and its harbour dotted with sleek mega-yachts. This pocket-sized country is also popular

with visitors who come to indulge in the good life. You can stay and spa in extravagant hotels, visit the royal palace, home to the Grimaldi family since 1297, walk the Grace Kelly Trail, see Prince Albert’s 100-strong vintage car collection, savour exquisite meals in Michelinstarred restaurants, do a spot of gambling, rent a yacht or simply dip your toes in the sparkling Med. MAGAZINE

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GET SPORTY Monaco is renowned for its flagship sporting events that never go out of style. In addition, it offers a bevy of other high-adrenalin activities, for both spectators and participants. Prepare to be amazed. The Classics: Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix: 23 – 26 May 2019 Organised by the Automobile Club of Monaco, the four-day Monaco Formula One Grand Prix is one of the most prestigious automobile races in the world. The event has achieved almost mythical status since its inception in 1929. Watch the fastest cars on earth race through Monte Carlo’s narrow streets, from Casino Square around the world’s most famous hairpin, through the tunnel and past the luxury yachts. acm.mc/en/ Monte-Carlo Rolex Tennis Masters: April 2019 Enjoy all the tennis action and glamour of this championship event at The Monte-Carlo Country Club. A key fixture on the professional circuit, it now ranks as one of the nine super tennis tournaments in the world. You can almost always be assured of seeing one of Monaco’s most famous sporting residents, Novak Djokovic, playing here. montecarlotennismasters.com

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Monaco Yacht Show: 26 - 29 September 2018 Each September, Monaco’s Port Hercule hosts an unparalleled celebration of all things super yacht. This is the place to ogle 125 extraordinary and unique yachts built by the world’s most respected shipyards. Another highlight is the worldwide launch of 45 brand new yachts, to much dropping of jaws and popping of champagne corks. wwww.monacoyachtshow.com/en/ The Unexpected: Monaco Historic Grand Prix: 8 – 10 May 2020 (held alternate years) Considered by fans and aficionados alike as the must-see of all the world’s historic races, the Monaco Historic Grand Prix is a retrospective of the golden age of car racing on the streets of Monte Carlo that haven´t changed since the first race took place on 14th April 1929. acm.mc/en/ No Finish Line Monaco (November) Run for a good cause through this community fundraising event, sponsored by Prince Albert II since 1999. Open to all runners and walkers, the goal is to run or walk as many times as desired on a 1400-metre circuit, which is open 24 hours a day for eight days. For every kilometre, one euro will go to help disadvantaged or sick children. A great event for locals and visitors alike! childrenandfuture.com/no-finish-line/

GET PHYSICAL Don’t just be a spectator: this tiny municipality perched on the edge of the Mediterranean offers loads of opportunities to get active. For the adventurous, there’s jet skiing, para-sailing, banana boating and fly-boarding, best described as a combination of jet skiing and hover-boarding with power boots. Those after more laid-back pursuits might like to explore the surrounding coves on a small hire boat or splash out on a private luxury yacht cruise, or relax by the pool or in your tent at the private Monte-Carlo Beach Club (www. montecarlosbm.com/wellness-sport/montecarlo-beach-club). While there, savour local, seasonal Mediterranean specialties at Elsa, the world’s first 100 per cent organic Michelinstarred restaurant. (www.montecarlosbm.com/ restaurants-in-monaco/gourmet/elsa) But don’t stop there. Play tennis on the same courts as the champions at the Monte-Carlo Country Club (www.mccc.mc) or enjoy a round of golf at the Par-71, 18-hole Monte-Carlo Golf Club (www.montecarlosbm. com/wellness-sport/leisure/monte-carlo-golfclub) on Mont Agel, with spectacular views over the sea.

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A FRESH PERSPECTIVE Monaco is the ultimate feel-good destination that puts sustainability at its heart. Terre de Monaco is an exciting new urban agriculture project where Monaco’s rooftops and balconies are being transformed into organic vegetable and fruit gardens. Workshops, classes, and tastings to promote good taste and healthy living are also in the works including close collaboration with the municipality’s famous high-profile chefs. www.terredemonaco.com Monaco’s most famous tennis star, Novak Djokovic, has also opened a vegan restaurant. At Eqvita, renowned vegetarian chef Erik Bozic offers a beautifully crafted menu of seasonal, raw and plant-based dishes as well as cold-pressed juices. www. eqvitarestaurant.com

Main: At the Rolex Masters championship (photo © Visit Monaco); below: Evening at Casino Square (photo © Monte-Carlo SBM). MAGAZINE

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Top: Table setting at Ducasse’s Le Grill restaurant; below: Seafood at the MonteCarlo Beach Hotel’s restaurant Elsa (both photos © Monte-Carlo SBM).

HOTELS, RESTAURANTS AND SPAS There are lots of exciting new developments in the hotel and restaurant scene too. Monaco’s most iconic five-star hotel, The Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, is in the final stages of its multi-year renovation and will re-open in November 2018 with a grand new garden courtyard and new fitness, spa and pool area on the roof. The hotel is remaining open throughout this period with 53 rooms and suites fully operational. A star new attraction will be the opulent two-floor penthouse Princess Grace Suite, suffused with personal mementoes of Monaco’s beloved American princess as well as a private infinity pool. Alain Ducasse’s three-Michelin-starred Le Louis XV continues to enchant as one of the finest restaurants in Europe while his top-floor Le Grill Monte-Carlo offers panoramic views of the glistening sea. www.hoteldeparismontecarlo.com The elegant Belle Epoque five-star Hotel Metropole in the classy Carre d’Or neighbourhood is reimagined by Jacques Garcia as an opulent palace. Its newest attraction is the sublime Spa 116

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Metropole by Givenchy. Super-star chef Joël Robuchon oversees three restaurants: his two Michelin-starred Joël Robuchon Mediterraneanstyle restaurant, the one Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant Yoshi, and the Karl Lagerfelddesigned Odyssey offering spa-style dining by the pool. www.metropole.com/en/home Set out of town on its own peninsula, the four-star Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort offers the perfect resort setting on four hectares of gardens right on the Mediterranean. La Table de Marcel is a brand-new experience where guests watch chef Marcel Ravin and his team prepare their meal in the kitchen of Michelin-starred Blue Bay Restaurant. www.montecarlobay.com Overlooking the Princess Grace Rose Garden and the Mediterranean Sea, the boutique threestar Columbus Hotel not only offers excellent value but also a dynamic fresh look after recent renovations. www.columbushotels.com

Further Information Monaco www.visitmonaco.com

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PARIS: meet a local foodie for an off-the-beaten-track gourmet walking tour.

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MONT-SAINT-MICHEL: embark on a guided tour of this fortified island with a Local Expert.

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Nice

SUNKISSED in the south

FROM THE ALLURING AZURE-HUED MEDITERRANEAN TO THE THRILLING ALPINE SLOPES, NICE OFFERS ENOUGH ACTIVE PURSUITS FOR EVERY DAY TO HAVE YOU ENJOYING ROSÉ AND SEAFOOD GUILT-FREE EVERY NIGHT.

lanked on all sides by coastal charm, Nice shines as the crown jewel of the magical French Riviera. This triumph is only fitting, considering the city was originally named for the Greek goddess of victory. With strong Italian and English influences, Nice offers the contemporary visitor an escape that combines culture with vibrant activity. There are almost 200 hotels to suit all tastes and budgets, and unforgettable Mediterranean cuisine, so your active break is also very much about the rewards that follow.

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Main: The unforgettable azure waters and terracotta roofs of Nice from above (photo © OTCN); inset: skiing in AlpesMercantour, just two hours from Nice (photo © Palomba).

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Clockwise from right: Watch for the distinctive blue rental cycles throughout the city, here at Promenade des Anglais (photo © OTCN/A Issock); marathon along the Promenade des Anglais (photo © VDN), regatta in the harbour (photo © OTCN/A Issock).

ADRENALINE-FUELLED EVENTS RIVIERA RETRO Nice’s triangular Old Town (or Vieux Nice) invites visitors to wander down its narrow, colourful alleys, lined with cafes and restaurants. Let your curiosity guide you; the tangle of streets makes the district feel larger than it is, and even the most aimless wanderings will almost certainly bring you to many of the major sights. Stroll the vibrant flower market on Cours Saleya, take in the waterfront view at Nice Vieux Port, and marvel at the architecture of the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate at the Place Rossetti. At every turn, encounter the savoury smells and flavours of myriad local eateries. Look for the Cuisine Nissarde label if you’re keen to sample authentic Nice cuisine (more details at en.nicetourisme.com/nice-s-cuisine).

FROM SEA TO SKI While Nice’s urban sights and experiences are breathtaking, they’re far from the only things the area has to offer. The nearby Maritime Alps and Mercantour National Park lure nature-lovers to their beautiful array of scenic valleys, clear streams, and perched villages. If you’re a summertime visitor in search of sunshine, sand and waves, Nice offers every water sport from scenic kayaking and relaxing snorkelling to more adrenaline-fuelled activities, including jet skiing and even flyboarding.

> Semi-Marathon International de Nice, April – This annual event is a qualifier for the French Championship, but don’t let that scare you if you’re not running at that level yet. The larger event also hosts four other races, including a teens run and a family run, so there’s something for everyone. www.nicerunningday.com > La Transvésubienne, May – Held each May for hardcore mountain bikers, La Transvésubienne is a two-day, 80-kilometre race that promises both tradition and innovation (www.ucc-sportevent.com).

> Ironman, September – These events abound in Nice, and coming up is Ironman 70.3 on September 16. This will offer 75 qualifying spots for the 2019 Ironman 70.3 World Championship, due to take place in Nice in September 2019. eu.ironman.com/ fr-fr/triathlon/events/emea/ironman/france-nice > Nice-Cannes Alpes-Maritimes Marathon 2018, November – Now in its 11th year, this fun run starts from the Promenade des Anglais. > FIFA Women’s World Cup, June – July 2019 – Nice is one of nine cities to host the 2019 FIFA Women’s World Cup, with games to take place at the Allianz Riviera Nice Eco Stadium.

The area is equally appealing in winter, when the Maritime Alps are covered in snow, perfect for beginners and advanced skiers alike. Less than two hours from downtown Nice, several charming ski resorts provide the essentials for a memorable weekend on the slopes. Auron (Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée) offers 135 kilometres of scenic runs, with Isola 2000 coming a close second with 120 kilometres. Need a little more outdoorsy inspiration? Then visit the website for an idea of its more intensive events – or our side box for an overview.

Further Information Nice Tourisme en.nicetourisme.com MAGAZINE

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Antibes from above, fringed by a blaze of Mediterranean blue (photo © Service Communication Ville Antibes-Juan-les-Pins).

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Antibes Juan-Les-Pins

Sounds like SUMMER IF TRAVELLING IN FRANCE OVER SUMMER, WHY SWEAT IT OUT IN THE CAPITAL WHEN YOU COULD BE BREEZING AROUND THE RIVIERA, IN CHARMING ANTIBES JUAN-LES-PINS? BY RUBY BOUKABOU

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ituated between glamorous Cannes and Nice (the cool capital of the Alpes-Maritimes department), and gloriously perched beside the sandy beaches of the Côte d’Azur, Antibes is the epitome of a southern French stay. Formerly a trading post for wines, oils, ceramics, salt and fish, the town once known as Antipolis has still a lot going for it. Think luxury yachts, delicious Mediterranean cuisine, a cobbled historic quarter, colourful markets, and even its own Picasso museum.

Antibes’ charm is completed by a forest dotted with mansions and, on the other side of the bay, the pretty resort town of Juan-les-Pins. Both have been popular with socialite anglophones since the days of F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald and friends spending time there in the 1920s, inspiring the author’s novels Tender is the Night and Tales of the Jazz Age no less. Linking the two towns is the beautiful peninsula of Graillon Battery, with its craggy cliffside paths and ancient pine trees, offering glimpses at every turn onto intimate beaches and crystal-clear waters.

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From top: vintage boats at the Voile d’Antibes regatta (photo © Patrick Hanez – Voiles d’Antibes); waterfront dining and coastal walk in Antibes (both photos © Service Communication Ville AntibesJuan-les-Pins).

MAGIC ALONG THE SEAFRONT Pack your swimmers, a few novels and practice your Charleston steps – especially in the warmer months, with these two headline events especially. > Les Voiles d’Antibes – late May to early June Since 1996, the les Voiles d’Antibes sailing race has opened the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge, where you can gasp at the beauty of vintage and modern luxury sailing craft. The smooth operators on board race along the 23 kilometres of coastline between the Bay of Antibes and Juan-les-Pins, making for clear spectatorship at any point. www.voilesdantibes.com > Jazz à Juan – July The Juan-les-Pins village may be little, but the musicians at this historic jazz festival are definitely not. B.B. King, Fats Waller, Oscar Peterson and Stevie Wonder are among the legends who have appeared on stage at the annual festival. In 2018, the 58th festival (12 – 22 July) kicks off with a Lenny Kravitz concert. www.jazzajuan.com If the timing doesn’t work, there are plenty of other sailing and boating opportunities all year round, as well as water sports, canoeing, snorkelling, diving and fishing. With 300 days of sun a year, there are always plenty of occasions to drink in some vitamin D on the beach. And a run or stroll along the long, rugged foreshore is beautiful and refreshing at any time of the year.

STAYS TO REMEMBER There are many hotel and rental options in both Antibes and Juan-Les-Pins for various budgets. Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc is the luxury seaside hotel (www.oetkercollection.com/fr/ destinations) where guests seem to drip with precious stones, particularly during the Cannes Film Festival in May. Art Deco Hôtel Belles Rives in Juan-les-Pins (www.bellesrives.com/en) was the very villa where the Fitzgeralds stayed before it was transformed into a hotel. So, for the literary minded, it’s the perfect place to read, or write. Bed-and-breakfasts are charming and cheaper options. Or why not go for a resort? Book in to Hotel Beachcomber (www.hotelresort-frenchriviera.com) and get ready for some

serious regeneration and relaxation. There’s a spa (in partnership with Cinq Mondes and LPG), two swimming pools, tennis courts, the nearby Prime Golf Academy, and more. A little further out of town is the Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel (www.ca-beachhotel.com/en), a contemporary architectural gem with a divine beachside setting and spacious, elegant rooms. Like the secluded Provençal villa Hôtel Impérial Garoupe, it’s an intimate garden setting along the coast (www.imperial-garoupe.com/en/homeluxury-hotel-french-riviera). Bonnes vacances!

Further Information Antibes Juan-les-Pins www.antibesjuanlespins.com MAGAZINE

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Fly to Tahiti ... and beyond!

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AUCKLAND

Connecting the World

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Tahiti

PARADISE found BLESSEDLY BEYOND REACH OF THE MASSES, THE ISLANDS OF TAHITI ARE AN UNSPOILED WONDERLAND WITH PRISTINE WATERS, VERDANT PEAKS AND A UNIQUE ISLAND CULTURE.

ith waterfall-laden mountains, palm-fringed lagoons, volcanic peaks towering above fertile valleys and idyllic white- and pinksand beaches, Tahiti’s 118 sun-kissed islands have been blessed by Mother Nature. This tropical escape in the South Pacific, officially known as French Polynesia, is a destination full of adventure, discovery and beauty. Whether you want to scuba dive in intense blue lagoons while manta rays glide around you, surf reef breaks, follow scenic paths through dense green jungles or relax in the overwater bungalows of five-star resorts, you can be as active or as chilled out as you choose.

Main: Vibrant colours and smiles at a Tahiti festival; below: jumping into the crystal-clear waters of Bora Bora (photo © Tahiti Tourisme).

The Islands of Tahiti also offer a vacation of rich cultural experiences. Stay with a local family to really immerse yourself in the Tahitian culture, or browse museums, learn how to make a flower lei or visit ancient temples. You can also revel in festivals, enjoying the music, song, and dance which are integral to the Polynesian way of life. To get there, fly into the international airport at Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia. It’s located on Tahiti, the largest island. Even if you don’t make this island your base, dedicate some time to go shopping in the city’s stores that specialise in Tahitian black pearl jewellery, and stop by the late 19th-century Notre Dame Cathedral - the oldest Catholic church in Tahiti. From Papeete, travel to your chosen island by plane, boat or ferry. Regardless of which paradise you choose, wherever you go in Tahiti you’ll be surrounded and enveloped by Mana, a spiritual energy and healing power that, according to Tahitian culture, can exist in people, places and objects. MAGAZINE

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FROM RELAXATION TO EXHILARATION Paradise can be found on Tahiti’s uncrowded, untouched and awe-inspiringly beautiful beaches. Close your eyes and picture the perfect beach: chances are it will look like any of Tahiti’s sandy sanctuaries. Unwind on the pink-sand coral beach of Tikehau, voted one of the best beaches in the world by Condé Nast Traveler readers in their 2017 Readers’ Choice Awards. Let the clear blue waters of La Plage de Maui on Tahiti’s south coast lap at your toes. Discover the true meaning of tranquillity on the secluded beaches of the many motus (reef islets) surrounding Bora Bora. If you’re looking for a more active holiday, haul your bronzing body up off the white sands and experience the natural wonders of the islands through its outdoor and adventure pursuits. Pick up a surfboard and go searching for the perfect wave – famous surf breaks include Vairao, Taapuna and the mighty Teahupo’o. Or, cut through the crystal-clear water of Manihi’s lagoon in a kayak. Below the surface, black-lipped oysters are cultivated for their black pearls. Tahiti’s first black pearl farm originated here in the late 1960s, paving the way for many more which are still operating today. If you prefer to stay on land, follow the winding paths to the fern-covered Maraa Grotto on the main island for a swim in its freshwater pool. A mesmerising combination of excitement, adventure, relaxation, beaches and nature make Tahiti a truly wonderful vacation destination.

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Festival at the remote island of Taha’a, accessible only from sister island Raiatea (photo © Tahiti Tourisme/ Gregoire Le Bacon).

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FESTIVALS AND EVENTS Owing to its favourable tropical climate, Tahiti is a year-round destination. No matter what time you travel, there’s always something going on. The following is a clutch of key annual events for your calendar.

Chinese New Year – Experience lion dancers, fireworks, dragon costumes, parades, and a riot of colour and noise as Papeete’s Chinese community usher in the Chinese New Year.

Tahiti Guitar Festival – For three days in February, young guitarists battle it out to see who’s the best. Polynesian and international guitarists provide the entertainment in the evenings.

> Vanira Race – On your marks, get set

and go for this 15-kilometre cross country race through the verdant landscape of Taha’a, in the Leeward Islands. This annual sporting event takes place in April and is a celebration of the island’s vanilla products. Music, vanilla stands, artisan displays and more add to the carnival atmosphere.

Ukulele Festival – Mid-September gives music lovers the chance to learn more about this four-stringed instrument through concerts, master classes, demonstrations and contests.

Heiva – Every July, witness the best traditional singing and dancing groups face off on stage as they showcase festive, fabulous Polynesian tradition. This notto-be-missed spectacle has been running since 1881.

> Billabong Pro – Held at famed Teahupo’o,

the annual Billabong Pro is a simply mesmerising big wave surf competition. You don’t need to be into water sports to enjoy one of the world’s most-watched and revered surfing competitions.

Tiare Tahiti Day – For one day in December, Tahiti celebrates its emblematic flower, the tiare, a long-time Tahitian symbol of love. Streets and public places are festooned with blooms, and locals compete to see who has the best displays.

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Top: Swimming with sting rays on the pretty island of Moorea, a short ride from Tahiti; below: hiking one of eight magnificent peaks at Moorea (photos this page © Tahiti Tourisme).

UP CLOSE WITH ECOLOGY No matter where you base yourself, take time to investigate the world under the waves on a snorkelling or scuba diving expedition. The waters around the Islands of Tahiti boast coral reefs rich with life: (friendly) sharks, manta rays and sting rays. Come face to face with eels, grey sharks and Napoleon wrasses, as you explore caverns and wrecks in dives off the twin islands of Raiatea and Taha’a. Observe dolphins and walls of sharks in the sea around Rangiroa. Encounter white tip sharks, turtles and dogtooth tuna in the dive sites at the Tetiaroa atoll. Dive among melonheaded whales, jack fish, swordfish and sharks off Nuku Hiva. Swim with humpback whales as they pass by Rurutu during their annual migration from the South Pole to warmer waters, between August and October. Other popular water sports in Tahiti include kite surfing, bodyboarding, paddle boarding, windsurfing and jet skiing. Back on dry land, the valleys, cliffs, tropical vegetation and craggy volcanic terrain of Tahiti’s diverse landscapes are ripe for exploration. There are opportunities for every level of ability and ambition. Embark on strenuous treks up to the summits of Mont Orohena, Mou’a Puta and Mount Rotui. Hike through a rainforest to the base of the Vaipo Waterfall, a single cascade that drops from a height of 350 metres, making it the tallest waterfall in Tahiti. Walk among jungle-like forests and past waterfalls as you make your way through the Fautaua Valley. Alternatively, give your feet a rest and explore deep valleys and lush rainforests on horseback or four wheel drive tours.

Further Information Tahiti Tourisme Australia www.tahititourisme.com.au 128

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FRANCE.FR INVITES YOU TO DISCOVER A DIVERSE FRANCE, ONE THAT IS CONSTANTLY IN MOTION, SCINTILLATING AND ASTONISHING.

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THIS JULY, ATOUT FRANCE LAUNCHES ITS SENSATIONAL NEW WEBSITE – DELIVERING MORE EMOTION, MORE RELEVANCE AND A MORE INTUITIVE BROWSING EXPERIENCE TO 100 MILLION-PLUS VISITORS.

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FRANCE at first site

eing the world’s most-visited country is a big responsibility. Total visitor numbers to France stand at just under 90 million annually, and by 2020, this figure could reach 100 million. Undeniably, serving information to such a massive audience is a serious job. And with browsing habits changing daily, along with the immense data-driven insights these actions generate, it was time to update the website. The exuberant new website takes its cues from the world of consumer publishing, with original, topical content that’s a welcome contrast to the tradition-heavy tone of the old one. It’s almost two years in the making, starting with a major investment in server capacity, cartography and other backend functions. The French version is already live, with various international versions to be released throughout 2018. The English site will launch around July.

WHAT TO EXPECT >> Vivid user journeys – The experience starts with the conversational menu headings, centring on ‘Where to go’ and ‘What to do’ – a departure from the previously stolid ‘Destinations’, ‘Events’ and ‘Practical information’. Rich imagery is embedded within sub-menu headings, shaping an emotive browsing experience similar to social media pathways. >> Mobile-friendly and socially savvy – More than 56 per cent of users access the website on mobile devices and tablets, and the new site is designed for browsing on the go. That means faster page loading times, without compromising on the increased video and photography content. >> Deeper storytelling – The new site also features more than 1,000 pages of editorial, taking into account distinct traveller preferences from 31 markets within northern Europe, the Americas, Asia and Australia. News items and articles are updated daily, reflecting the sheer variety of seasonal, cultural, culinary and other sensational experiences that France has to offer.

Further Information Atout France au.france.fr MAGAZINE

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Screen Burgundy

BONANZA

WHAT: AN EARLY BURGUNDY-STYLE CHRISTMAS CELEBRATION TO LAUNCH THE AUSTRALIAN PREMIERE OF BACK TO BURGUNDY, A LOVE STORY AND WINEMAKER’S DRAMA ROLLED INTO ONE. THE EVENT ALSO FEATURED GENEROUS AMOUNTS OF PINOT NOIR WINE, DIJON MUSTARD, COMTÉ CHEESES AND LADURÉE MACARONS. Where: Dendy Cinemas Circular Quay, Sydney Who Friends and partners from Bourgogne Franche-Comté Tourisme, Vintec, Le Boat, Ladurée, Utracks, Air France and AccorHotels. Highlights: Guests Geoff Wood, Erin Flaherty and Andrew Rothery donned the redand-gold robes intrinsic to the Burgundian Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, one of France’s most famous guilds devoted to preserving and promoting the region’s culture and cuisines, before regaling the audience with their version of traditional celebratory song, Ban Bourguignon.

Clockwise from top left: Bridie Commerford, VP marketing and communications, AccorHotels; Claudia Rossi Hudson catches the winning flying cork for the Jeroboam lucky door prize; Quentin Voss and Linda Pellaers of Air France KLM; Chevaliers Geoff Wood, Erin Flaherty and Andrew Rothery add a touch of spectacular, singing the famous Ban Bourguignon; Atout France team Anaelle Zilbermann, Charlotte Renaudat Ravel, Alice Benguigui and Marc Humphries. 132

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Cosy

APRÈSSKI dinner party Above: The Vitamine Jazz Band kept the tempo upbeat. Above right: The high point of the soirée was without a doubt the seasonal winter wear fashion show modelling The North Face gear.

Right: Atout France’s Patrick Benhamou and Network Ten’s Sandra Sully test the MUMM chairlift. Far right: Arnaud and Maxime from the French School.

WHAT: A WINTRY AND WONDER-FILLED INTRODUCTION TO THE MAGNIFICENT SKIING REGIONS OF FRANCE, WITH CUISINE, ENTERTAINMENT AND DRINKS TO MATCH.

Where: Sofitel Wentworth Sydney Who: About 250 travel trade guests, including media personality Sandra Sully and representatives from major French ski resorts Chamonix-Mont Blanc, Courchevel, Megève, Val d’Isère and Val Thorens. The event also welcomed partners from Emirates, The North Face, La Maison du Thé, Tefal, Mumm Champagne and Kiehl’s.

Highlights: Savoyard specialties on the menu included raclette – individual portions of vegetables and charcuterie, grilled with raclette cheese from the Alps – and a snowball-shaped dessert. The Vitamine Jazz Band kept the tempo upbeat, while The North Face staged a ski fashion show, replete with wintry onstage fog.

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Intimate BRITTANY Convivial Dinner

WHAT: A RELAXED DINNER IN HONOUR OF ALL THINGS BRETON, INTRODUCING TRAVEL PARTNERS TO THE REGION’S SPECTACULAR COAST, SENSATIONAL SEAFOOD AND RELAXING PURSUITS.

Clockwise from top left: Seafood galore!; Nicolas Croizet, French ConsulGeneral (left) with Les Schirato, CEO of Vittoria Coffee; Patrick Benhamou, Director Atout France, with Deborah Le Goff and Anne Gallo, both senior executives from Brittany Regional Tourist Board; Red Cardell guitarists; smiles from the Atout France team: Sophie, Marion, Charlotte, Alice and Charly.

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Where: Sofitel Wentworth Sydney Who: Guests included French Consul-General Nicolas Croizet, and Vittoria Coffee CEO Les Schirato, AM. Top representatives were also present from the event’s multiple sponsors: Brittany Tourism Board, Four Frogs Crêperie, Frenchies Bistro & Brewery and Le Baron Des Spirits. Highlights: The event had a distinctly nautical air, with Atout France staff garbed in Breton stripes and with copious servings of fresh seafood on the menu. Guests were also treated to a performance by folk-rock group Red Cardell, to which they danced the Fest Noz folk dance.

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Right: Sophie Bessou, SPM Hotels; Robert Thompson, Tahiti Tourisme and Alain Campignon, SPM Hotels.

Tahiti MANA

in Darling Harbour Above: Patrick Benhamou, Atout France and a model for Robert Wan Pearls. Left: The traditional Tahitian welcome with dancers and frangipani flowers by Atout France team, Lina Krief, Emma Louis-Tramoni and Marie Ramond. Below: Vaea Campignon, SPM Hotels.

WHAT: AN ELEGANT TAHITIAN LUNCHEON TO PROMOTE SOME OF TAHITIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOST SOPHISTICATED TRAVEL EXPERIENCES: TIKEHAU PEARL BEACH RESORT, MANAVA BEACH RESORT, MANAVA SUITE RESORT AND HAUMANA CRUISES. Where: Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour Who: Guests flew in from Tahiti and major Australian cities, to represent industry partners including Tahiti Tourisme, Atout France, Air Tahiti Nui, SPM Hotels and the featured resorts and cruise line. Highlights: Tahitian flavours abounded, from the iconic fish-and-coconut Poisson Cru to the scent of frangipani and several music and dance performances. Guests were also treated to a Tahitian pearl fashion show, featuring pieces designed by leading Tahitian pearl emporium, Robert Wan. MAGAZINE

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Glittering

Champagne Drinking STARS WHAT: ELEGANT COCKTAIL-HOUR EVENT TO PROMOTE PIPER-HEIDSIECK CHAMPAGNES, THE CHAMPAGNE REGION ITSELF, AND ‘CHAMPAGNE AND THE STARS’, AN EXHIBITION OF ARCHIVE PHOTOS DEPICTING HOLLYWOOD CELEBRITIES SIPPING PIPER-HEIDSIECK. Where: Sofitel Wentworth Sydney Who: An assortment of well-heeled business partners from the Champagne Tourism Board, Épernay, Reims, Hôtel Chateau Les Crayères, Piper-Heidsieck, Air France-KLM, AccorHotels, Chloé Perfumes, Rendez-vous en France magazine (that’s us!), La Maison du Thé and Percy Marks.

Clockwise from top: The dazzling Champagne Lady; The PiperHeidsieck display bottle signed by Kevin Spacey; Clive Scott assists with the sabrage (using a sabre to open the champagne bottle). 136

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Highlights: A ‘champagne lady’ dressed in magnificent, cabaret-inspired costume was on hand to serve guests the celebrated drink, with one flute containing a real diamond generously supplied by Percy Marks. Several iconic champagne rituals, including sabrage and induction into the Champagne Society, gave guests a lasting impression of champagne’s firm place in civilised society.

Clockwise from top right: Officials perform the intronisations (official induction) ceremony; Frederic Nebout, Emilie Poirault and Alexandre Bariteaud from Champagne; Laurence Prevot, Director of Champagne Tourism, with Rob Remnant, MD Piper-Heidsieck Australia and Mette Engell, Director of Coty Luxury; Celeste Tia, Linda Pellaers and Quentin Voss of Air France-KLM; Les Schirato performs the intronisation; Cameron Marks, Managing Director at Percy Marks with Liz Glover, winner of the hidden diamond.

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Books

What we’re READING

THE BEST CITY AND REGIONAL STROLLS START WITH A LITTLE RESEARCH. THESE THREE VERY DIFFERENT GUIDES TO PARIS AND FRENCH WINE COUNTRY OFFER UNIQUE INSIGHTS, EVEN FOR REPEAT VISITORS.

5 Self-guided Walks Around Central Paris Ross Turnbull (walksaroundcentralparis.com; soft cover edition $34.95, interactive pdf $4.95) This wonderful collection of five self-guided walks around central Paris is an armchair traveller’s feast, and the ultimate walking companion. The book is written by the late rugby reformer and NRMA president, Ross Turnbull, known throughout his achievement-filled life as being able to strike up a conversation with just about anyone. On Walk 2, from Saint-Germain-des-Prés to Notre Dame, follow in Turnbull’s footsteps to pass bookshops and intimate dives straight from the Jazz Age, once frequented by the likes of Sartre, Hemingway and Camus. On Walk 5, experience the grand boulevards stretching from Jardin du Palais Royal to the Eiffel Tower. Most walks can be split into two shorter walks, depending on your likelihood of being distracted by fine boutiques, intimate cafés and people-watching opportunities. Turnbull’s love of and affection for Paris is renowned, and this book has been put together with much knowledge of insider haunts and local history. 138

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Paris Dreaming Katrina Lawrence (HarperCollins RRP $35) Award-winning Australian beauty journalist Katrina Lawrence first fell in love with Paris at the age of five, and has since travelled back countless times (she has literally lost count) to the City of Light. In this part-personal memoir, part-travelogue, the author reflects on 10 of her most memorable and life-affirming trips to Paris. Divided into one journey per chapter, through a succession of life stages (from ‘fillette’ to ‘grande dame’), the book takes us around Paris’ most spectacular sights and hidden secrets. Lawrence tells us the story of why the city has been her constant inspiration, and blends together a sweep of history, insights into fascinating Parisiennes, and musings on everything Parisian – from femininity to feminism, and politics to perfume. Lawrence’s warm, elegant prose is further brought to life with illustrations by Bondi-based Parisian illustrator Clémentine Campardou.

The Wandering Vine: Wine, the Romans and Me Nina Caplan (Bloomsbury RRP $32.99) Wine starts conversations, fires the emotions and inspires dreams. Such is the premise of wine and travel journalist, Nina Caplan, in her wonderful historical book about the intriguing pathways wine has taken throughout several millennia of western civilisation. Caplan’s journey follows in the footsteps of the Romans, who planted many of the original vines and embedded wine culture across the European continent. She wanders from Champagne’s ancient chalk to Burgundy’s backwaters, taking in countless other Roman viticultural remains along the way: England to Andalusia and Italy. In the course of her travels, Caplan drinks a lot and learns a lot: about dead conquerors, living wines and the many characters that bind them together. As one reviewer put it: you’ll savour every last drop of this engrossing read.

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Melissa Doyle

Things I LOVE ABOUT FRANCE

ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S BEST-KNOWN AND TRUSTED MEDIA PRESENTERS, MELISSA DOYLE, AM, COUNTS A SILVER LOGIE AND WALKLEY AWARD AMONG HER MANY SUCCESSES AS A JOURNALIST. SHE’S ALSO A LONGTIME FAN OF FRENCH TRAVEL.

Best memory of France? Taking my dad to Paris after he’d been cleared of cancer. It was a wonderful, happy time and we look at the photos often.

Top French destinations? Paris, of course! Shopping, walking, eating, art… there’s so much to enjoy. I also adore the stunning châteaux in the Loire Valley, and Dijon - it’s such a pretty city.

Favourite foods? Simple, true French cuisine... steak tartare, rabbit terrine, beef burgundy, smooth red wine and, of course, flakey almond croissants with espresso.

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French shopping secrets? You can find beautiful things anywhere, from tiny boutiques to major department stores. I like to go for simple pieces, and add something special – earrings or a bag.

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Quirkiest dining memory? Dad and I wanted to avoid the tourist traps, with all their ‘French’ fries, and ventured down a tiny back lane. But we ended up in a Bulgarian bistro, not French!

Dream trip to France? A trip that had me there for at least six months!

Personal highlights for 2018? I’ll be dreaming of France instead of travelling there, although my job takes me to so many different places. My son and daughter are approaching their senior years in high school, so we’ll be pretty focused on home.

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Best antidote to over-indulging? Walk. At every step, there is so much to see – an exquisite shop window, some Renaissance masonry, a vibrant market stall.

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Eating out in Paris? A picnic with local produce – bread, cheese, meats, coffee or wine, finished with a sweet piece of nougat.

Most iconic sports event? The Tour De France, with its rolling countryside scenery and crowds cheering on from the roadside.

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Clinical scoring and self-assessments – 34 women – 8 weeks. 3Patented in France, Germany, Great Britain, Italy, Spain, USA, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Russia. 1

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