TGF&A - Fall 2009

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TGFA

Canada’s Voice for the Luggage, Leathergoods, Handbags and Accessories Industry Fall 2009 • Vol. 1 Number 2

Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine Leathergoods: Hot Colours in Cool Leathers Industry Forecast Report: The Road to Recovery Winter 2009-10: Patterns with Personality Visual Merchandising

New Lines PM 40063056

The Art of Researching, Buying and Selling

The all-new LLHA Show is coming! See pgs. 7 & 19 April 25-27, 2010 Toronto Congress Centre. Visit www.LLHAshow.com

DOTS

Customize Your Luggage

Patent Pending

www.heys.ca

contents 22

FEATURES 8 Product Feature: Leathergoods Hot Colours in Cool Leathers 12 Cover Story: New Lines The Art of Researching, Buying and Selling 20 Industry Forecast Report Accessories: First on the Road to Recovery 22 Fashion Trends: Patterns and Winter 2009-10 Patterns with Personality

12

DEPARTMENTS

8

6 A Word Before 11 Industry News & Views Continued on Page 30 17 On the Road: Sealing the Deal 18 LLHA News 28 Marketing: Visual Merchandising Mixing Creativity With Business

Fall 2009 3

Introducing...

Introducing...

e ee A Word Before

Welcome to the Fall issue! The kids are in school with their new backpacks, the college and university students have made use of their oversized duffle bags, people are buying warm winter gloves, hats and scarves, women are looking for that perfect new handbag and others are planning their winter holidays and looking at new luggage sets. Fall is such an ideal season for the industry. In this, our second issue, we have featured ideas from industr y exper ts, buyers and business owners on how to source new product lines – and we even have tips on how to market them to clientele. Leading U.S. industry analyst, Marshal Cohen of The NPD Group, a respected leader, speaker and celeb fashion guru offers his insights on fashion accessory buying patterns. Whether your customers are looking for vibrant prints or more classic designs, we’ve got the hottest pattern trends for everything from umbrellas, to bags and travel gear covered. Along with looking at what’s new in patterns, we feature the latest in leathergoods. With everything from traditional handbags to colourful clutches, we’ll look at how the leathergoods industry has evolved and how it has embraced greener philosophies. And we’ll see what buyers can expect down the road. In the Marketing feature, we get expert advice from visual merchandising pros on how to best dress a display or a window to increase your store’s traffic – and bottom line. In On the Road, we’ve got great tips from experienced sales professionals on their approach to sealing deals: what works and what doesn’t. In every issue, we’ll hear the latest news from the LLHA Association including President Paul Hanley. We’ve also added a new department called Industry News and Views which gives members an opportunity to share exciting developments, or reasons to celebrate, as well as to inform others about industry issues that affect everyone. We welcome your future comments. Plans are now well underway for the LLHA Show which will take place from April 25-27, 2010 at the Toronto Congress Centre. See the LLHA News section for an update on some great new show features for 2010! Please contact show manager Richard Swayze for more information at richards@mediaedge.ca or 416-512-8186 ext. 246. We look forward to seeing you there. As always, we want to hear from you, the readers, about how we are doing so far. Please drop us a line and let us know what you think. Enjoy. Lucie Grys Editor

Some publishers will go to any lengths to promote their new magazine!

TGFA

Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

Volume 1 Number 2 • Fall 2009 Publisher | Richard Swayze richards@mediaedge.ca 416.512.8186 ext. 246 Editor | Lucie Grys lucieg@mediaedge.ca 416.512.8186 ext. 301

Senior Graphic Designer | Annette Carlucci annettec@mediaedge.ca Production Manager | Rachel Selbie rachels@mediaedge.ca Circulation Manager | Cindy Younan circulation@mediaedge.ca Contributing Writers Marshal Cohen Andrew Coppolino Lisa Kopochinski Editorial Advisory Board Christine Beben Pierre Calestagne Sandra Cassivi Catherine Genge Paul Hanley Ken Maxwell Perry Mogus Harry Restoukian Thelma Watts Jeff Williams

Published by

President | Kevin Brown kevinb@mediaedge.ca Vice President | Chuck Nervick chuckn@mediaedge.ca 5255 Yonge St., Suite 1000 Toronto, Ontario M2N 6P4 Tel: 416.512.8186 Fax: 416.512.8344 www.mediaedge.ca Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories is published four times a year by MediaEDGE Communications Inc. Subscription Rates (Canada) + gst: 1 year $39.50, 2 years $69.25, single copy $10.75. For all subscription inquires or changes of address: circulation@mediaedge.ca 416.512.8186 ext. 232 Reprints: No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form – print or electronic – without written permission from the publisher. Requests for permission to reprint any portion of this magazine should be sent to richards@mediaedge.ca. Copyright 2009. Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40063056 ISSN 1920-5368

Richard Swayze and friends reach the 5,895m summit of Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania on October 5th, 2009. 6 Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

Official Publication of the LLHA Association of Canada and the LLHA Show.

C A NA DA’ S N ATIO N AL INDUSTRY SHOW

30th “Pearl” Anniversary April 25-27, 2010 Toronto Congress Centre, North Hall I-J TRADE ONLY 16 Years or older

Come celebrate with us! Enjoy the all-new LLHA Show, now celebrating its 30th year as Canada’s annual national showcase for the

industry’s top suppliers and buyers to connect and conduct business in a professional and elegant trade environment.

www.LLHAshow.com

TGFA

Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

Official Publica tion of the LLHA Associa tion of Canada and the LLHA Sho w

www.mediaedge.ca

Luggage, Leathergoods, Handbags and Accessories Association of Canada 1-866-872-2420

Fax: 519-624-6408

info@llha.ca

www.llha.ca

For show information including exhibit, sponsorship or other promotional opportunities: Contact: Richard Swayze, Show Manager 1-866-216-0860 ext. 246 richards@mediaedge.ca

e ee Product Feature: Leathergoods

Hot Colours in Cool Leathers By Lisa Kopochinski

C o l o u r, p r i c e a n d e n v i r o n m e n t a l awareness definitely top the list of trends and challenges facing the leathergoods industry today. And while our troubled economy has meant dwindling disposable income, this is not stopping consumers f ro m d e m a n d i n g d u ra b l e, s o c i a l l y responsible products with both a great design and price to match.

In response, the leather industry is jumping to meet these demands with a wide array of innovations in the tanning process, which has led to new ecofriendly alternatives. “These developments have led to genuine leather goods that are softer and involve the use of significantly less chemicals in their manufacture,” says Javier Rincon, president of Colombian Leather House in Mississauga, Ontario. In a recent article in The Toronto Star, Susie Sheffman, fashion director of Fashion magazine says, “This fall is all about the strong, empowered woman and what fabric is tough and more enduring than leather?” The Star also reports that advances in technology have turned this tough hide, once favoured by bikers and cowboys for its strength and durability, into a fluid fabric that can be as smooth as silk with the drape of knit.

Christina Sponzilla, sales and marketing manager for Jack Georges, Inc. in Passaic, New Jersey believes that environmentally friendly products will definitely play a larger role in the market over the next five years as consumers become more concerned with what they do, what they purchase, and how that affects the environment. “The new materials for these products may well be the old materials that we

know and recognize, but with the benefit of modern technology making quality and reliability more attainable,” she says. Customers also want their bags to multitask as much as they do. That is, to be able to cross over from formal to casual. A nd vibrancy is back. Say sayonara to the darker-coloured leather p ro ducts that have dominated the industry for the past decade or so.

“Hot trends today are in colourful smaller bags,” says Ben Farber, president of Benchmade Leather works Inc. in Markham, Ontario. “The body bag tends to leave the hands free. And clutches in leather and vinyl are popular too. Exotic animal prints are very important such as crocodile, snake and alligator.” Benchmade Leatherworks leather and vinyl clutches in exotic animal prints are in demand this season.

8 Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

Colombian Leather House (below and at left) is using today’s innovations to make softer leather products in more environmentally conscious ways.

Bright and vibrant colours are back and this case on wheels by Jack Georges proves it.

Product Feature: Leathergoods e ee

Melanie Sara of Sayan Inc., in Montreal, Quebec agrees: “The new trends are flashy colors, soft leathers, studs and fringes. Consumers are looking for quality, originality, lots of detail and practicality.”

“The technology and sourcing capabilities that we have now gives us amazing supple leather that really is a transformative, sexy, confident feel.”

Sayan is making bags with softer leathers, studs and fringes to answer the call for detail with practicality.

Move over hard, shiny materials. Considered “so yesterday,” they are being traded for softer, matte finishes in bags that allow for more draping and pleating looks. John Leiss of Landau Sacamoto in St. Laurent, Quebec says matte finishes lend themselves to a chalky palette that includes white, cement grey, neutrals with turquoise, coral, mustard and greens as accent colours. “We have also incorporated whip stitching or lacing to give design, texture and added visual appeal. These bags are all done in non-leather materials that replicate the feel and look of expensive vegetable-tanned Italian leather. Overall the looks are in keeping with current trends in clothing and footwear.” And as Jennifer Steckel Elliot, vice president of marketing at leather retailer Danier, recently told The Star, “The technology and sourcing capabilities that we have now gives us amazing supple leather that really is a transformative, sexy, confident feel. It’s not stiff leather. We call it the ‘turn it on factor.’”

European designed purses, bags, and travel accessories, handcrafted in full grain Italian leather… now available in black

Landau Sacamoto’s latest bags show the trend toward unique stitching & textures, with materials that aren’t leather – but look like it.

9-334 Queen St. South, Suite 193, Bolton, Ontario, L7E 2N9 WEB: www.ostba.com EMAIL: sales@ostba.com TEL: 905 857 9015

Falll 2009 9

e ee Product Feature: Leathergoods Thrifty Consumers In today’s tough economy, consumers must be thriftier than ever. For many, gone are the daily $5 lattes, dining out several nights a week, and other spur-of-themoment purchases. But leather does of fer consumers added value because of its sense of authenticity and affordable luxury, says The Star. “All the top brands are showing it for the people whose wallets don’t have trouble closing,” says Steckel Elliot. “For people who have to watch their pennies—it’s a lasting investment—it’s not throwaway fashion.” And because the leather industry has changed drastically, more retailers are importing their goods from low-wage countries such as China and India. While many may complain about this, it has translated into more leather and vinyl choices for consumers. But there are also many more suppliers, and that is hurting some retailers. “Many specialty stores are going out of business, forcing the industry to adapt,” says Sponzilla. “Mass merchandisers and price-club stores buy and sell with a focus on price and convenience as opposed to the rich variety and deep assortments that specialty stores have always been able to provide. With fine leathergoods in particular, a salesperson in a specialty

“In today's tough economy...leather does offer consumers added value because of its sense of authenticity and affordable luxury...it's not throwaway fashion.” This collection by Ostba of Salzburg and Puffin Gear is in a classic Harris Tweed pattern, and is made by hand for quality that will last.

store could educate the consumer and help them make their purchase. How will the market be affected when that part of the equation is lost?” Sponzilla does find though that most consumers are looking for fashion and that the increasing popularity of handbags has created the majority of growth in today’s leathergoods industr y. “The piece has to look good on its own, when they carry it, and with their outfits.” Trish McLean of Ostba of Salzburg in Bolton, Ontario believes that there are those who want a higher-end product that will last, but they still seem to be in the minority. “I would like to see a shift to more environmentally conscious shopping where people buy a quality product that will last rather than a cheap product that will find its place in a landfill down the way.”

Your one stop shop for the largest selection of genuine leather

wallets • unisex organizer bags • ladies handbags • men’s bags • key cases • travel accessories

Visit us at the: CGTA Show - booth #1059, Mode Accessories Show - booth # 2308, Alberta Gift Show booth #5003, and the Montreal Gift Show.

14 - 5500 Tomken Road, Mississauga, ON Canada L4W 2Z4 • Tel: 905-624-8585 or Toll Free: 1-888-498-4712 Fax: 905-624-2048 • E-mail: jbginternational@yahoo.com • Web: www.jbgleather.com 10 Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

Product Feature: Leathergoods e ee a b o u t w h a t t h e y w a n t b y re a d i n g maga zines and researching on the Internet. “They read more, which gives them extensive information pertaining to all facts and items,� says Farber. “Also, the c o n s u m e r d o e s m o re c o m p a r i s o n shopping.�

Leather gloves are still a must for fall and winter, in fashionable colours such as these by Paris Glove.

One item that has endured over the decades as a major fashion accessory is gloves. While times have changed when women had a wardrobe of different coloured gloves to match various outfits, most women today have at least two pairs for daily use. “Leather gloves are still a must for every woman as they give a full winter’s wear, can be in fashionable colours, such as red and purple, and vary in length from short two-button length up to eight and 10-button elbow length,� says Peter Monk, president of Paris Glove of Canada in St. L a u re n t, Q u e b e c. “G l ove s c a n b e decorated or elegantly tailored to meet the day’s activity needs.� Retailers are also noticing that consumers are becoming more educated

Myths and Challenges While consumers may be more educated, there are still many myths that need debunking. Probably the most common is that leather is more expensive than synthetic materials. “This is based on shor t-term considerations and does not account for the durabilit y of leather over other materials and the versatility of modern designs in weathering changes in fashion trends,� Rincon explains. Another is that all leather is the same. In fact, there are many different types of leather, all of which perform differently depending on their use. Leiss is pleased to see a return to craftsmanship. His newest handbags are a return to a more artisan hand-worked look with details such as heavy saddle stitching or what Italians call a “trepunta stitch,� a look dating back to an era when all stitching was done by hand. “Today, of course, the stitch is done by sewing machine, but the process is slow and must be done with a steady hand and a fine eye,� he says.

With so many different price points, there is the ongoing challenge of producing leather products in Canada. And with fewer skilled leather workers lef t in Canada, McLean says it’s getting tougher and tougher to find someone to make their designs. “Because of the relatively high cost of skilled labour in Canada, it is difficult to produce a product that will sell in the Canadian market. While we hear grumbling about the glut of products made offshore, the reality is that there are few stores and buyers willing to pay the cost of products made in Canada.� However, most retailers will tell you that taking the time to build a relationship with clients and advising them on the different types of leathers allows them to make m o re i n fo r m e d d e c i s i o n s, t h e re b y improving the chance of repeat business. In this sluggish economy, with today’s consumers becoming more educated about leathergoods products and the manufacturing process, and demanding quality, practicality and craftsmanship at a good price, without sacrificing fashionable designs and colours, the leathergoods industry has its work cut out for it. But Javier Rincon remains optimistic: “The economic downturn gives us a good opportunity to rethink the way we are building the leathergoods industry. The qualit y, elegance and variet y of the products will all help in moving our industry forward.� e

Industry News & Views e ee Boivin Honoured with Y WCA 2009 Women of Distinction Award Johanne Boivin, President/Designer of JOANEL, was recently honoured with an esteemed award at the YWCA Montreal 2009 Women of Distinction Gala Awards Ceremony in the categor y of Entrep re neurship. “I fe el ex tre m el y privileged and honoured to have been recognized amongst such exceptional women for such a prestigious award by the Y WCA worldwide network,� says Boivin. JOA NEL is moving in some exciting new directions for 2010 with the launch of a line of sophisticated women’s sunglasses for spring 2010, and a new project underway that will see Johanne exporting JOANEL products to Europe.

Ms Boivin, left, accepting the award sponsored by TD Bank Financial Group.

Bagot Leather Goods, Luggage Plus Wins Prestigious Business Award Bagot Leather Goods, Luggage Plus (BLG) is proud to announce that is has won the prestigious RDÉE Lauriers de la PME 2009 award for small to medium business in the commerce division. RDÉE Ontario promotes economic d e ve l o p m e n t a n d e m p l o ya b i l i t y i n Ontario’s Francophone communities to e n s u re t h at t h e y re m a i n v i t a l a n d sustainable. Against ver y tough province -wide competition and meeting strict criteria, B LG w o n t h e c o m p e t i t i o n a n d i s automatically entered in the national competition to be held this November at the Chateau Laurier in Ottawa. According to Guy Paquette of BLG, there were over 250 nominees and he was “very happy to be one of the 14 finalists – an incredible accomplishment in itself.â€?

From left to right: Ron Paquette, Therese Paquette and Guy Paquette

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â Â”Ă˜ ò”â‘ ÂˆĂ”pCâ Ă˜Cg¨pĂ˜Ă˜ C¨g In Memory Ă˜­Ă”Ă”­ò â‘Câ ­ÍĂ” }C£”Â?Ă´ We are saddened the ­}recent passing of C¨¨­Í¨]pĂ˜ â‘pby ÂźCĂ˜Ă˜Â”¨Âˆ ­¨ CĂ˜ÂœÂ”ò ­¨ &]â­SpĂ” ĂŠĂœd Donald Jaskiw 27. For years, ÊúúŠĂ‚ p on òCĂ˜ October C Â?­ù”¨Âˆ Â‘ĂŤĂ˜SC¨gd }Câ‘pĂ”d Ă˜­¨d SĂ”­â‘pĂ” Don represented Dominion Luggage C¨g SpĂ˜â }Ԕp¨gĂ‚ ­¨ Ă˜ĂŤ]]ĂŤÂŁSpg â­ ]C¨]pĂ”d C}âpĂ” C throughout western Canada and also Â?­¨Âˆ C¨g ]­ÍĂ”Cˆp­ÍĂ˜ SCââÂ?pd Ă?ÂƒĂ‚ operatedCâ ­¨Cˆp Luggage Warehouse which Â”Ă˜ Ă˜ĂŤĂ”ĂąÂ”Ăąpg SĂ´ Â‘Â”Ă˜ Â?­ù”¨Âˆ ò”}pd in2‘”ÔÂ?pĂ´Ă› â‘p”Ô â‘Ôpp specialized the sale of quality luggage ]‘”Â?gĂ”p¨d "”]‘CpÂ? ž Ă”Â”Ă˜â”¨¿d /CĂŤÂ? ž C”Â?Âżd C¨g and CĂ˜ÂœÂ”òĂ› travel accessories. Â?Â?Â”Ă˜­¨ CĂ˜ òpÂ?Â? CĂ˜ Â‘Â”Ă˜ £­â‘pĂ”d pÂ?p¨ He later built a CĂ˜ÂœÂ”òd CÂ?Â? ­} g£­¨â­¨Ă‚ p òCĂ˜ ŸÔpgp]pCĂ˜pg store in the new ž´ŠĂœŠ¿ WestC¨g Edmonton Mall SĂ´ Â‘Â”Ă˜ }Câ‘pĂ”d "”œp CĂ˜ÂœÂ”ò ÂˆĂ”C¨gÂźCĂ”p¨âĂ˜ p­Ă”ˆp C¨g "CÔô 1­Ÿ]‘C¨ ­} shopping centre and renamed his business 2£­ÂœĂ´ CÂœpd Â?SpĂ”âCĂ‚ ­¨ òCĂ˜ S­Ă”¨ ”¨ Unlimited. g£­¨â­¨ ­¨ p]pÂŁSpĂ” Luggage Thatä´dbusiness recently ´ŠÂ†ä â­ "”œp C¨g pÂ?p¨ CĂ˜ÂœÂ”òĂ‚ ¨ ´ŠÂ†Ă? â‘p }C£”Â?Ă´ £­ùpg â­ <CâĂ”­ÍĂ˜d 2CĂ˜ÂœCâ]‘pòC¨ ò‘pĂ”p celebrated its 30th anniversary and is now "”œp C¨g pÂ?p¨ ŸÍĂ”]‘CĂ˜pg â‘p <CâĂ”­ÍĂ˜ ­âpÂ?Ă‚ ­¨ òp¨â â­ Ă˜]‘­­Â? ”¨ <CâĂ”­ÍĂ˜ C¨g ”¨ ´ŠĂ?Ăş ‘p Don leaves his owned by Don's two sons. p¨Ă”­Â?Â?pg Câ 2â ­Ă˜pÂźÂ‘Ă‘Ă˜ ­Â?Â?pˆp ”¨ >­Ă”œ⭨d wife, Shirley, their”¨ three Michael, 2CĂ˜ÂœCâ]‘pòC¨d ÂˆĂ”CgĂŤC┨ˆ ´ŠĂ?†Â children, ¨ 2pŸâpÂŁSpĂ” ­} â‘Câ Ă´pCĂ”d ­¨ Ă˜âCĂ”âpg ò­Ă”œ”¨Âˆ Câ Paul and Allison and ¨ ´ŠĂ?Ă?d his mother, Helen 4‘p ĂŤgĂ˜­¨Ă‘Ă˜ CĂ´ Ă˜â­Ă”p ”¨ 2CĂ˜ÂœCâ­­¨Ă‚ ‘p £­ùpg â­ g£­¨â­¨ C¨g SpˆC¨ Â‘Â”Ă˜ ]CĂ”ppĂ” ”¨ Jaskiw, Ă˜CÂ?pĂ˜ ò”â‘ Ă‚ Ă‚ all p”¨øof

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Industry News & Views continued on page 30 Fall 2009 11

e ee Cover Story

“In this bear market doing a bit of research, seeking a few best practices and technologies and looking for a marketing edge might just be what the doctors of economics have ordered...�

12 Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine 12 Travel Building Strategies

Cover Story e ee

New Lines

The Art of Researching, Buying and Selling By Andrew Coppolino Despite recent soaring energy prices and a stubbornly sleepy business climate that have impacted the travel and its ancillary industries, indications are that an economic corner has been turned. While steeply slumping investment quarters have likely stabilized, consumer confidence remains a bit shaky. Perhaps a little aggression is the answer to help stimulate some growth? Taking the bull by the horns in this bear market and doing a bit of research, seeking a few best practices and technologies and looking for a marketing edge might just be what the doctors of economics have ordered for seeing this fall off to a solid start that could lead into a profitable holiday season. to be able to see what everybody else is doing is to be out there.” Eagerly sought product reconnaissance could unearth the stars and the dogs, and while it is not the only factor, people who love the business—“people who are passionate about retail”—have a greater chance for success, Millard-Ruff says. Staying on top of consumer demand and slightly ahead of the competition doesn’t necessarily require paying for market research, though it needn’t be expensive she says, and “those dollars are an investment that might mean that you can sell another $300,000 of product.”

e “It might be a hard pill to swallow…but good research is cheaper than markdowns!”

e

Shop what you know and know what you shop

“Never underestimate the value of good market research. It’s paramount," says Kaileen Millard-Ruff, vice-president retail and fashion, GfK Research Dynamics: “so shop the market.” Many national chains have the resources— human and otherwise—to dedicate to shopping what’s out there. That is less likely with independents, but something they need to consider. “Independent merchants have to find that time. The good ones do it. And the ones barely hanging on tend not to. I can’t tell you the number of independent retailers I meet who say they hate shopping—why are they in the business? The only way you are going

Seek trends warily

Some useful data is probably standing right in front of you waiting to be collected: from customers. And observing and talking to them is key; “consider it free market research,” says Millard-Ruff. It’s a perfect opportunity to observe that young woman’s wallet or handbag when she’s at the cash desk: how are they designed, how are they used? Engage her

Fall 2009 13

e ee Cover Story

“The only way you are going to be able to see what everybody else is doing is to be out there…. If you don’t want to shop, get out of retail.”

in some conversation about that unique bag, and it might lead to some interesting purchases. Just be wary that simple hunches may not get you the desired results. “Just because pink foam -resin clogs are b e i n g w o r n a l l o ve r yo u r neighbourhood doesn’t mean th ey a re th e n ex t h ot te st fashion item. Professional rese a rc h c o m p a nies have both affordable proprietar y research solutions, as well as off-the-shelf studies, that can guide you on whether or not the study is nationally representative of the group you’re trying to sell into,” she says. It might be a hard pill to swallow, but she adds that “good research is cheaper than markdowns!” Those customers might also be seasoned travelers able to convey trends they’ve seen abroad. Krista Haigh, a buyer for The Bay, says it is important to learn those trends either from customers or vendors: “ W h a t h ave t h e y s e e n i n Europe?” she asks. With such an item in mind, you have to evaluate its utility by asking the right questions; chances are that a precedent has been set for you to piggyback on. “Has the product sold well in the U.S. market,” asks Haigh, “and what price did it sell at?” Michele Shepard of Soko in Montreal puts her trend-trust in her suppliers: “I figure that they’ve done their homework on what the trends and the colours are before they go ahead and produce thousands of the piece.” Good information is always available at shows like the LLHA Show or the TGA Travel Goods Show: “You can see what’s new and up-and-coming and what you need to be in,” Haigh adds. For Millard-Ruff, these shows are a necessity. “If you don’t 14 Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

want to shop, again, get out of retail. There is simply too much out there to see or miss, if you don’t get out on the field and see what’s in the game.”

e

Use instinct and inventory management to buy

Choosing suppliers when you see the trends can be tricky. A lot depends on what your needs are: do you need someone with certain terms, Canadian-made, just-in-time delivery, smaller minimums, private labels? For those reasons and others, the relationship with suppliers is a shimmering, fluid one that changes constantly; however, whether national merchant or independent, building a par tnership is “essential” says Millard-Ruff. “Look after their needs, and try to engage them in your store. If I were running a one-off independent, I would be the same way as if I were buying for a national chain: I would want vendors to feel that they were a part of what I was doing.” And, Shepard figures, it’s a n o - b ra i n e r to w o r k w i t h suppliers that stand fully behind their products. “If anything ever goes wrong, I want to be able to say with confidence that we can send it right back and get another. Customer service is really, really important.” The supply lines are based on the service and products offered, prices, and shipping and duty costs: “It has to re p re s e n t v a l u e fo r o u r customers,” Haigh says. The process of what to select is one for which she casts a wide net. “We try to see all the lines and give everyone a fair chance with what they are offering for the season. I then take a carry-on from each and do a line-review, from which I build my assortment for the year.”

Cover Story e ee

SUCCESS SECRETS Look for unique seasonal movers Kaileen Millard-Ruff suggests some close scrutiny of what seem to be swift-moving seasonal goods: sleep-wear, stocking stuffers and novelty items. “But first, stop and look around to see who else is into it. Everybody has their fingers in different pies. Today, grocery stores are selling clothes; pharmacies are selling underwear. Before you make that inventory investment, can you do it better than someone else, or in a unique way?”

For example, The Bay is launching the world’s lightest luggage for this Christmas, notes Haigh. “It’s a hot topic in the travel industry: you don’t want your luggage to weigh over 50 lbs. Thinner, lighter luggage with four wheels, and colourinfused hard side (polycarbonate shell) luggage are the newest trends and we want to be onside with that.” S om etim es the supplier a p p e a r s s e r e n d i p i t o u s l y, suggests Shepard. “I owned one supplier’s bag myself, and they were looking for someone in the area, so that was a good

match. But it has to be something that I like. If I don’t like it, I can never sell it sincerely. Customers know if you truly like the products you are selling.” Though she says she doesn’t buy in large quantities, Shepard, like Haigh, surveys the entire line and lets her instinct and basic aesthetic philosophy take over—what she herself likes— before zeroing in on her favourite selections. Millard-Ruff takes a more stringent business approach. “Your bottom line is what is going to drive how many new styles to purchase, but at the

It’s as much about identifying who you want as a customer as anything else. What do they want to spend, where are they located, and what competitors for them are there? Those questions answered, Millard-Ruff would then ask what their needs are. A simple case study can be illuminating; “If you’re selling jeans and targeting ‘Mom’ for her personal use, what are her issues? Affordability? Fit? Availability? What is the white space (under-served market) here?” “Once you know these, you can build a product and marketing plan around them—or abandon ship because you can’t be different or compete effectively.” Marketing and customer interface Get the word out about your product, suggests Haigh: “I’m carrying this or that line and it’s an everyday low price for the world’s lightest luggage.” From a technological stance, Millard-Ruff would add that getting the word out is critically important, as is acknowledging your customers and showing them that you’re listening—really listening. “Having someone responding to you visibly in a forum like Twitter or Facebook gives you an opportunity to acknowledge the feedback and to get other input. You are no longer a nameless, faceless company.” Manage the lifecycle of a product Rena Granofsky, a retail technology consultant and president of RIT Experts, touts “Product Lifecycle Management” (PLM), an emerging business solution that helps retailers collaborate with their manufacturers. “The approach has many benefits for retailers,” she says, “including greater accuracy in design and production for what the retailer wants and needs. PLM solutions integrate fully with the retailer’s merchandising system, so that the retailer can more easily plan assortments and allocate merchandise.” Believe in your sense of style Michele Shepard of Soko externalizes her own sense of aesthetics and functionality as a way of judging what her customers want. You have to believe in your products, she says. “Go with what you love. If you’re excited about it, you can create excitement for customers.”

Fall 2009 15

e ee Cover Story

“Everybody has their fingers in different pies… Before you make that inventory investment, can you do it better, or in a unique way?” same time you can’t let your OTB (open-tobuy plan of inventory management) drive you into the ground.”

e

Social media is a great leveller

Technology has added a unique d i m e n s i o n to c o m m u n i c a ti n g w i t h customers, says Granofsky. The reach of social media permits retailers to go well beyond the boundaries of their regular customers to entirely new potential demographics. Social network services level out the playing field: both large and small companies can take relatively equal advantage of something like Twitter or Facebook with information flowing in both directions. “Many established retailers have been doing this very successfully for some time now, getting information about products that don’t work and soliciting ideas for new products,” Granofsky says. Product reviews which allow customers to critique what you sell in an online forum are quite powerful, as long as you are open to

16 Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

both positive and negative feedback. “It means that people are talking to you and you need to listen to that and be seen to

react. That can be very powerful to those relationships,” she adds. There is a caveat: while social network services like Blogspot, Facebook, MySpace, and Twitter are not accurate research, they are vectors leading to potentially useful information. “For instance, if you are concerned about environmentally sound products, then scope out green-focused blogs to see what people are buzzing about. It may not be 100 percent nationally representative, but it is one more tool in the box,” Millard-Ruff says. Ultimately, though, you have to get access to your customers wherever they reside. “They’re online and the penetration is climbing everyday and very rapidly,” adds Granofsky. However you connect with customers, and whatever strategy you concoct to discover the new trends and the best ways to work with your suppliers in difficult economic times or a skyrocketing market, the proof of the pudding is in the purchase— and it generates some pretty simple satisfaction in turbulent times. “When you hit on something that flies off the shelf,” exclaims Shepard, “you feel great.” e Andrew Coppolino, andrew@ andrewcoppolino.com, is a freelance writer based in Kitchener, Ont.

category On name the Road e ee

Sealing the Deal By Andrew Coppolino

“You are dealing with people and not a business.” The principle is memorable, yet does its practice end up at the bottom of your list of day-to-day priorities? The handshake has been completed, and the transaction made; however for seasoned professionals and independent sales reps in the industry, the work isn’t over. While the deal is sealed once, the follow-up contact thereafter is ongoing. As you keep your eye on the prize of selling your product, it’s important to look past the simple transaction to the adage that lies just beyond: you are selling services as much as products, according to Harry Restoukian, director of sales with The Sample Room. The work to retain customers must take place on a continual basis, he adds; unlike automobiles or real estate, the travel goods, fashion, and accessories industry relies on more than a one-time transaction. “If the customer feels they’re just there to take an order from, they can do that with anybody. It’s not a deal to seal so much as it is a relationship to nurture.” When she follows up, Denise Martin of Denise Martin Agencies, counsels respectful persistence. “It’s a cliché but this word defines our job. In a more difficult year, like the one just experienced, this practice was put to the test and in the end is what can make the difference between accepting difficult times and succeeding despite them.” Thelma Watts of Watts Lines would add that, large or small, know your client. While she deals primarily with smaller independents, she acknowledges that a follow-up phone call to clients is important but that, like Restoukian, familiarity over time establishes the relationship. “They know your company and they know the services you provide. So much of sales today is about trust and relationships with the buyer. When you know that buyer, they often will say things like, ‘You know what we like,’ when it comes to buying; or,

‘I’ll try a couple of pieces and if they work we’ll receive more.’ That’s trust.” And trust, too, that before having any momentary lapse of initiative in following up with clients you would be well served to remember the “10-10-10 Rule,” as Restoukian describes. “A company spends $10 million to brand and market a product. It takes you 10 seconds to lose a customer, and 10 years to get that customer back.” A simple phone call is therefore a very inexpensive commitment. In fact, introducing yourself to a client shouldn’t happen unless the follow-up is top-of-mind. “We might meet a potential client at a trade show and though they may not buy right away, we take a business card and a few days later we call or e-mail them to say we enjoyed seeing them and would they like to sit down for a chat?,” says Restoukian. In the meantime, Restoukian has done his homework and visited the client’s website — or if possible the store itself — to learn more about them and the demographic they serve. “This not just a short term relationship, but one that makes sure the product is the right one for the retailer,” he says. Burgeoning technology can be useful, but just as much it could represent a “worlds-colliding” scenario when it comes to following up with clients, says Denise Martin. There’s lots of technology out there along with burgeoning SNS (social network service) tools like LinkedIn, MySpace, Facebook and Twitter; however, the telephone might still be the best instrument for reaching out and touching someone. “Generally, we still utilize the old-fashioned telephone method,” Martin says. “Most of our customers appreciate our effor ts to have a live chat. However, if a customer prefers e-mail contact than we will resp e ct th eir re qu est a nd communicate that way.” e Andrew Coppolino, andrew@ andrewcoppolino.com, is a freelance writer based in Kitchener, Ont.

Out of sight is out of mind Whether you connect via telephone, e-mail, or skywriting: just do it. “Regular contact is essential, or you’ll be forgotten,” says Restoukian, for whom building relationships of a long-lasting nature is key. Telephony follow-up One of the oldest technologies is perhaps easiest, reliable, and most personal. “Be honest. Don’t be phony on the telephone,” says Thelma Watts. “And remember: if you want respect, you have to give it.” E-mail can be double-edged Write a desultory, hasty note; click and send; hope for the best: e-mail is not always the silver bullet it might be perceived to be. Is it too impersonal, are there too many, does it even get opened in a timely way by clients? Though Denise Martin recognizes its utility for delivering information about special promotions, website links, and advertising, she quickly adds “real, live person-to-person contact is deteriorating in this high-tech world of ours.” Thelma Watts suggests being strategic about sending e-mails to your clients. “A lot of smaller businesses don’t do e-mail and are too busy buying and stocking shelves.” The gift that’s finished giving? Giving gifts, intimates Watts, has possibly gone by the wayside. “That’s not to say people aren’t doing it, but given the economy and the issue of transparency, if you have to buy their business it’s not going to last very long.”

Falll 2009 17

e ee LLHA News

President's Message

Luggage, Leathergoods, Handbags and Accessories Association of Canada (866) 872-2420 Fax: (519) 624-6408 info@llha.ca • www.llha.ca

Welcome to the second issue of the TGF & A! I’m sure that you were as pleased as I was with the results of the hard work of the MediaEDGE team. I have had only positive comments from within the industry regarding the new official magazine of the LLHA. They have told me that they like the fresh st yle, commentar y and the useful information within. This is the mandate of the magazine and it will continue in both this and future issues. Af ter a summer that never came in eastern Canada, your board is hard at work preparing for the 2010 LLHA Show, our 30th edition! Through the show, we will continue to offer retailers a variety of industry related goods that are sure to meet their consumers’ needs. Make sure you mark your calendars and plan to attend THE industry event from April 25th - 27th, 2010 at the Toronto Congress Centre. The key holiday selling season is now upon us and I am seeing more Christmas tree displays in stores every day! After what has been a tough economic year, we are seeing positive signs. Retailers are reporting that they had "OK" back to school results and that September and October have

seen results that are positive to last year’s numbers. The recovery will be long and s l o w b u t t h i n g s a re g e t t i n g b e t te r. Consumers will continue to spend and will look for quality, value and service before parting with their money. Your industry association board is here to serve you! We welcome your feedback, whether positive or negative. So please feel free to contact myself or any of the board members directly, or through the LLHA website. If you would like to join us in giving back to your industry as a board member, please contact Catherine Genge at 1-866-872-2420 or at www.llha.ca. I am looking forward to a positive fall/ winter selling season and the promise of better times ahead! Thank you,

Paul Hanley, LLHA President

Attention Retailers: Your opinion counts!

We are looking for your help in choosing the LLHA Sales Rep of the Year and Supplier of the Year for 2009. Have you experienced exceptional service from your Sales Rep? Is your rep working well with you? Is your Supplier delivering the goods? Are you getting the products from your Supplier that you need for your customers? Are you experiencing superior customer service, timely shipping, consumer preferred products and after sales service? Here is your opportunity to say thanks! Please submit your nominations for Sales Rep of the Year and Supplier of the Year at www.llha/awards.php or contact Catherine at 1-866-872-2420. Awards will be presented at the LLHA’s President’s Reception on April 25, 2010. Thanks in advance to everyone for your submissions! A LOOK BACK IN TIME

Continued from the last issue of TGF&A...The birth of the LLHA coincided with the creation of a special area in 1975 for luggage and leathergoods called the Luggage & Leathergoods Trade Show to run in conjunction with the semi-annual Canadian Gift Show which had started in August of 1973. It was a great way to expose the Canadian manufacturers to a large retail market by having a separate luggage & leathergoods market within the Gift product exhibitors. “Combining both the Gift and Luggage & Leathergoods exhibitors helped create Canada’s largest trade show,” commented Ed Kastner, the first show manager. “It was perfect timing enabling the retail buyer to see the latest trends and have them in stock for the peak selling season.” The need for a better timed show was evident with the growth of the Canadian Gift Show from 65 exhibitors in August 1973 to over 350 exhibitors in just two short years. “The addition of the luggage & leathergoods exhibitors is expected to grow the Gift Show to over 1200 booths, with an expected draw of over 10,000 establishments and over 20,000 buyers.” 18 Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

LLHA News e ee FOR MEMBERS ONLY….

Becoming a member is easy and the best way for your business to grow! Check out what membership in the LLHA has to offer: The LLHA Show…the largest Luggage, Leathergoods, Handbags and Accessories Show held in Canada. The market place for buyers and sellers to focus on the most influential and inspired brands. The place to be if you are looking to be part of today’s retail culture! April 25-27, 2010 Toronto Congress Centre Additional Membership Benefits include:

• Copy of annual Retail Survey Report, and Quarterly Statistics • Copy of LLHA Show Attendance List • Annual President’s Reception • Free listing of your Company and Brands and more on our new and improved website! • Annual AGM Meeting (Your opportunity to be heard!) • Guest Speakers and Seminars • Free Subscription to TGF&A Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine • And much more….

2010 SHOW UPDATE

It is with great anticipation that we await the 30th “Pearl” Anniversary of the LLHA Association and the LLHA Show. We are excited to be working with our new Show Management company Media EDGE Communications and to have a familiar face back with us, Richard Swayze, our Show Manager and Publisher of TGF&A. Media EDGE brings a wealth of experience producing top-notch events and publications, and Richard is working closely with the Association to create many exciting new Anniversary features, some of which include: • NEW Show Floor Layout • NEW Show Website and Show Guide • NEW Product Showcase • NEW “Pearl Lounge & Restaurant” • NEW Saturday Exhibitor Welcome Reception and AGM • NEW Date for the President's Reception, now on Sunday April 25th • NEW Draw at President’s Reception to win Show Bucks for Retailers to spend on LLHA Show products! Look for more exciting features to be announced in future issues of TGF&A, stay tuned! Please join us in celebrating our 30th Anniversary... If you have any LLHA show or industry pictures, stories, or memories that you would like to share, please forward them to Catherine@llha.ca or call the LLHA at 1-866-872-2420. Mark your calendars now for the all-new LLHA Show, April 25-27, Toronto Congress Centre, North Hall I-J!

JOIN US AND BE A PART OF IT ALL! www.llha.ca

LLHA Membership Early Bird Renewal Contest

LLHA membership renewal invoices were mailed out in early November. You will be pleased to know that fees have remained the same for 2010. Please contact the LLHA office if you didn’t receive your renewal notice. Be sure to take advantage of our Early Bird renewal contest for members. Pay your membership dues before December 15, 2009, and be eligible to win your membership FREE for 2010. Don’t forget to send in your payment before the deadline date! You’re not an LLHA member? Apply for membership before December 31, 2009, and you will also have the chance to win your 2010 membership for FREE. Click on the “Membership Application” link on the Membership page at www.llha.ca to complete the online application. LLHA Industry News… Update on the Stuffed Articles Act

The LLHA Association has been informed recently that the undergarment industry has been given an exemption in compliance with the Stuffed Articles Act. The Board of Directors has written to the Minister responsible for this Act asking for the same exemption for our industry, making the point that it is obvious that in comparison, the goods that our industry manufacturers produce are much less in contact with a person’s body and therefore should also be exempt. We will keep you posted on this issue.

Fall 2009 19

e ee Industry Forecast Report

Accessories:

First on the Road to Recovery 20 Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

Industry Forecast Report e ee The NPD Group is the leading global provider of consumer and retail market research information, with 26 offices in 12 countries including a Canadian office in Toronto. NPD provides critical consumer behavior, point-of-sale (POS) information and industry expertise across a wide range of industries to help understand and profit from consumer and retail trends. NPD has recently launched their Canadian Fashion & Accessories Consumer Tracker which will provide TGF&A with valuable quarterly data on Canadian industry trends; look for their reports in our upcoming issues. Until then, read about some recent trends in the U.S. marketplace… By Marshal Cohen

There is no question that the fashion business was the hardest hit industry during this recession. But for those of you selling or manufacturing accessories, I am here to tell you that the sun will shine soon enough and shine on you first in fashion. While some industries have actually faired well during this economic downturn, jeans, outerwear and tee shirts specifically, accessories has taken it hard. Sales of accessories in the U.S. for the 12 months ending in August have been down by 14 percent, while apparel was down 6 percent. Yes, both are staggering numbers. However, there is a bright spot. That is, in a recent three month period (June, July, August) in the U.S., sales of accessories were only down 7 percent. I know it sounds funny saying only down 7 percent, but that is clearly showing signs of this market accelerating as well as frugal fatigue felt by the consumers. And in our Annual Holiday Survey, 22% of them said they planned to buy accessories as a gift this season, up from 20% in 2008. Consumers are going to reach for accessories for several reasons this holiday season and beyond. First of all, there really are no ‘hot items’ this holiday and that means back to traditional gifts and what I call “nifty gifties”. Accessories will also be an important, “thought of you, but couldn’t spend a lot” gift for many people to give this holiday. Accessories are also going to be the place the consumer looks to for updating their wardrobe. Accessories have now become the primary purchase and the outfit has become the accessory to the accessory. Luxury was not spared by any means in this recession, and the aspirational luxury customers that drove so much of the previous growth in accessories have gone back home to roost in their more natural habitat of the value stores. H o w e v e r, t h e o n e p l a c e t h a t t h e aspirational shoppers will dip their toes in the cool waters of recovery will come in the accessories pool. Consumers will still try to make some of those affordable luxur y purchases in accessories categories while cutting back elsewhere. So those mid-level and lower upper-level accessory brands are likely to see the consumers suffering from frugal fatigue reach there for some ‘therapy’. Accessories was one of the last areas to f e e l t h e p a i n o f t h e e c o n o m i c downturn; they provided a needed and

ex tended value proposition for consumers. A more af fordable, impressive and “investment” purchase as the mounting recession was looming. S o th e likelih o o d of th e c o nsum e r returning to accessories first is ver y probable. Consumers didn’t satiate their appetites for accessories, and there remains some pent up demand and desire for them by consumers. They recognize that accessories are a more “affordable investment” into the return to spending. One bag, one wallet, one necklace or one watch at a time, I use the term LOFI, last out, first in, to describe this. The categories that were the last ones to go out during the worst of the recession are the ones that are generally the first ones to return. Consumers like to pick up where they left off. Big screen TV’s, cell phones, and accessories were some of the last categories to feel the pain, and some of those categories are already seeing some daylight return. In the past three months, accessories in the U.S., specifically in categories like small leather goods, bags and luggage, and sunglasses have seen dramatic improvements in sales declines over the prior year during the same time period. Small leather goods have even posted growth in this challenging environment. Another dynamic to watch is how men will be embracing accessories as we start to come out of recession. To some degree, men tend to update wardrobes without even thinking about buying apparel; they

use the accessory market to update and feel good about enhancing their image. So, while the season is changing on us, the cold is roaring in and the economy is dragging along, the accessory business is poised to begin the recovery period for fashion. The challenge will be which retailers and brands are positioned with a more robust accessory assortment that will lure the consumer in and convert them from looker to buyer. Accessories are in the forefront…the lure that actually makes the catch. e Marshal Cohen, the chief industry analyst at The NPD Group, Inc., is a nationally known expert on consumer behavior and the retail industry, providing valuable insights into the apparel, footwear and accessory market. He has followed retail trends for more than thirty years, at NPD as the head of leading fashion and apparel, as well as at major retailers. As a regular contributor to major media outlets, he is frequently quoted in “The Wall Street Journal”, “The New York Times”, and “Women’s Wear Daily.” Additionally, he appears on a variety of television news programs including “Today”, “Good Morning America”, and “CBS Sunday Morning,” and is a regular guest on “Bloomberg TV” and “Fox Business News”. He is also a sought after speaker at key industry shows and conventions internationally. Visit www.npd.com

Falll Fall 2009 21

e ee Fashion Trends: Patterns and Winter 2009-10

Patterns with Personality By Lucie Grys

Coco Chanel, the fashion matriarch who ruled the Paris style scene for nearly sixty years once said, “In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different.� This coming winter, variety is certainly the name of the game and with more options than ever, consumers will be pleased by the bounty of pattern and print options available to them in luggage, leathergoods, handbags and accessories. Being different will not be a problem.

22 Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

Fashion Trends: Patterns and Winter 2009-10 e ee

A new collection by Hedgren features subtle tone on tone patterning.

The patent-pending DOTS® luggage by Heys comes with stickers so consumers can create any pattern they wish.

Whether shoppers fancy jungle-like animal prints, bright polka dots or steer towards a conservative look with more traditional pat tern options like plaids, the selection in the marketplace will not disappoint. If anything, consumers will have a harder time choosing from an excellent array of choices available to them in a range of great price points.

“Today lightweight options and more fashion trends have given the consumer a reason to replace their traditional luggage more frequently and add it as an accessory to their wardrobe.”

When speaking of fashion, it’s hard not to look at the evolution in the luggage industry over the past decade. No longer just available in standard black, brown and navy, luggage has taken a cue from the r unways a nd is n ow a fashion statement. Available in a virtual rainbow of colours, the luggage industry has also recently embraced more patterns in their product lines. Anne Camara, a luggage buyer at Sears Canada Inc. says, “Patterns have started to surface on luggage this fall, influenced by handbags and scarves. Multicolour plaids, argyle and buffalo checks in black & white and red & black are now available, and were also popular on backpacks for the back-toschool season. Inspired by patterns seen on scarves and apparel, we will also introduce herringbone and houndstooth patterns on hard-side luggage.”

Heys’ buffalo check patterns in contrasting colours is a big trend this season.

Camara notes that specialty stores will continue to show florals and graffiti patterns, but the department stores maintain a more conservative approach by keeping to classic patterns. Interestingly, she feels that the popularity of animal prints like zebra, leopard, snake and crocodile prints from previous years will likely fade in 2010. “In the past, consumers tended to replace their luggage every 5-7 years. Today with lightweight options and more fashion trends available, the industry has hopefully given the consumer a reason to replace their traditional luggage more frequently and add it as an accessory to their wardrobe,” she says. “Fall 2010 fashion trends will be 1940's inspired, with black and white prints and solids; grey will also continue to be strong. Dusty blues, raspberry, dusty pinks and a passionate red will be the splash colour. Heritage is another trend for fall which will show tan, natural and harvest colours inspired by nature. The look is being called "urban city". Plaids will be more tonal, less defined. Vintage and washed denim will continue to be strong in apparel, so this influence may come up in casual luggage, duffels and backpacks. Influenced by Eastern

Cabrelli’s use of colour with animal patterns, shows the trend toward leveraging past fashions and repurposing them to achieve new looks. Fall 2009 23

e ee Fashion Trends: Patterns and Winter 2009-10

Kathy Van Zeeland (above and below) and its new directions in colours other than black makes these pieces fun and edgy.

European fashion, the Mosaic trend is another upcoming fall trend in apparel. This includes a spiced palette, with teal and purple resurging. Tweed, distressed leather and suede will be important, so likely this will be seen on finishes and trims,” Camara adds.

“Gone are the days when winter palettes consisted of neutrals, blacks, greys and browns, notes Sonia Zarbatany from Montreal, who reps the Kathy Van Zeeland, B. Makowsky, Franco Sarto and Tignanello lines. This fall and winter, the colour palettes are a fresh colourful array of lichee, purples,

metallics and showcase prints. The handbag has quickly become the feature element of a woman’s wardrobe and this season’s colourful prints and palette allows her to go about her day feeling stylish, sophisticated, edgy and fun.”

“Gone are the days when winter palettes consisted of neutrals, blacks, greys and browns. This fall and winter, the colour palettes are a fresh colourful array of lichee, purples, metallics and showcase prints.”

24 Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

Fashion Trends: Patterns and Winter 2009-10 e ee When it comes to budget-minded consumers, reflecting on the past can serve as inspiration for a new handbag or scarf. Plaids have always offered longevity when it comes to fashion and are a safe route for those wanting to update a look without breaking their comfort barrier. For those more conservative buyers, handbags and other fashion pieces designed with exposed zippers, metallic buckles and other embellishments take them into the new season without investing in a bright polka dot or a print or pattern. Emran Sheikh of Heys International in Mississauga believes that the “biggest evolution of patterns over this decade has not been in the patterns themselves, but instead been in the incorporation of patterns into trademarks of high end brands. The iconic plaid print of Burberry, the famous Brown LV star pattern of Louis Vuitton and the prominent criss-cross GG pattern of Gucci were the dominant patterns of this decade, by far eclipsing any other traditional pattern trend.”

“Fashion’s biggest trend this year is repurposing current wardrobe items and mixing things up using prints and patterns from the new and previous seasons ….The fashion smart consumer will leverage these trends to create a look all her own.”

Iconic patterns of high-end brands such as Louis Vuitton continue to be popular

According to Sabrina Roy, handbags designer at Cabrelli Inc. in Montreal, “Today’s consumers will shop intelligently for winter 2009/2010. Fashion smart customers will first shop their own closets, evaluating what they already own and adding to it. Fashion’s biggest trend this year is repurposing current wardrobe items and mixing things up to achieve a new look. This is actually great for the handbags and accessories industry because you can change or update a whole look just by changing the handbag and/or accessories you wear. The good news for women looking to wear the latest and greatest is that trends of the last several seasons are still very much in vogue, like tailored garments, ruffles, capes, denim, plaid and smar t embellishments. The fashion smart consumer will leverage these trends to create a look all her own using prints and patterns from the new and previous seasons. With just a few carefully edited pieces, it will provide that newness consumers look for.” Patterns will be inspired by global traditions and will borrow artisanal techniques like indigo-dyeing, beading and embroidery and even woodblock printing. Roy notes, “Distorted woven patterns instigate an indigenous feel. A primitive essence remains in patterns inspired by Modern art.” Consumers are “seeking newness in tradition: quirky combinations of old fashioned florals styled with plaids and chunky knits that break the precedent, patterns mixes with overprinted foliage and subtle woven motifs are disguised behind intricate stripes,” she suggests. Roy adds, “Enhancing what one already owns with selective interpretation of the latest trends is a smart message for fashion mavens everywhere.” Fall 2009 25

e ee Fashion Trends: Patterns and Winter 2009-10

In the fashionable world of umbrellas, patterns are a big hit for this fall. Richard Igra is President of Fulton Umbrellas (Canada) Ltd. in Toronto, a family-owned company with design studios based in the UK, which holds the “Royal Warrant” to the Queen. Igra, a third generation umbrella maker, feels that, “Trends this season are focussing on colourful stripe and floral prints as well as animal and natural prints integrating style, fashion and c olour.” A nother trend that he observes is the growth in compact and folding umbrellas that fit easily into a purse or small backpack. Igra adds: “Classic black and white prints also continue to be strong, and we see a definite increase in the demand for better material for frames and handles such as high quality performance fabric, wood, aluminum and fiberglass. In today’s environment, the integration of innovative materials and fashion is critical for a successful rainwear product range.” It would seem that Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth feels the same way. Fulton’s iconic see-through dome-shaped Birdcage™ umbrella, which now has an extra strong fiberglass frame, is her umbrella of choice on rainy days!

Fulton Umbrellas shows the latest stripes, florals and animal prints that are fashionable this winter

Fulton HANDBAGS & SHOES SPRING 2010 IS WAITING FOR YOU!

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Toll free: 1-877-583-1950 www.fultonumbrellas.com

26 Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

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Fashion Trends: Patterns and Winter 2009-10 e ee The choice and variety of patterns will only increase as the luggage, leathergoods, handbags, and accessories industry continues to be fashion forward. However, “no store has enough floor space to house all these different prints in all the different sizes, so buyers are forced to select what they think will be the popular trends to insure that the product turns appropriately. This may vary from region to region as demographics play a part in the popularity of trends but it seems the tried and tested plaids will continue to be strong in 2010,” remarks Sheikh. “Eventually, the evolution will be back to solids but there will be a twist to make it different somehow,” remarks Judy Fleener of Holiday Group in Montreal. She feels that the bold and colourful patterns and prints currently on the market are a reflection of fashion apparel items seen on the runways.

Paris Glove’s popular Olympic symbol gloves are a hot item in the lead up to Vancouver 2010.

As we inch closer to the Va n c o u v e r O l y m p i c s t h i s coming February, we are now seeing the Olympic emblem as we ll as th e sy m b o l of th e games, the Inukshuk, appearing on apparel and accessories. Paris Glove of Canada in St. Laurent is offering gloves and mitts with the Olympic emblem and official symbol which will be proudly worn by Canadian s k i e r s, s n o w b o a rd e r s a n d speed-skaters participating in the games.

This bold polka dot luggage set by Holiday is inspired by the fashion runways.

Buyers have some great choices in front of them this fall and winter. Depending on their personality and desire to make a statement with a bold print, or to play it safe with a conservative plaid, a wide variety of prints and patterns will entice them to take a step forward and dare to be different. e

Falll 2009 27

e ee Marketing

Visual Merchandising Mixes Creativity With Business By Lisa Kopochinski

merchandise, it’s necessary to adhere to some definite do’s and don’ts, with lighting being one of the most important elements. “If you don’t have the proper lighting, there’s no use in having the store open. If it doesn’t set the right atmosphere in the beginning, your customer is going to stay away and say it’s too dark or it’s too bright. A nd it can set of f dif ferent thoughts in the customer’s head about the goods,” he says. Certain items need to be lit differently. Items like jewelry and smaller accessories require pinpoint lighting, which explains why many jewelry stores have precision lighting on diamond rings and watches. An expansive light, by contrast, would create a washed-out effect. And if a store is selling scarves and hats, it’s probably not in its best interests or bottom line to use fluorescent light—it’s not particularly flattering to most complexions. Visual merchandiser Kathie Bramson, owner of Visuals in Toronto, a firm that works with clients such as Louis Vuitton and the Art Gallery of Ontario, stresses the importance of thoroughly understanding the image you wish to project to your target market. “You need to have an understanding of the demographics of the community, the age group, average income, lifestyle and interests. A better understanding of who you are appealing to and the message you wish to communicate will make your displays more focused, more effective and easier to create.”

Not many careers offer a perfect balance of ar t and science. With visual merchandising, you’re able to apply equal parts of each by presenting products in the most at tractive way possible to generate traffic, buzz, and of course, sales through a systematic approach. In to day’s tough e c onomy, som e retailers may choose to cut back on the services of a visual merchandiser—a decision that could be disastrous for business. “Visual merchandising is very important to the overall sales of a store,” says David McDermid, coordinator of the Visual 28 Travel Goods, Fashion & Accessories Magazine

Merchandising Arts program at Seneca College in Toronto, whose background includes 25 years of experience in retail and freelance visual merchandising. “It makes things look better and helps increase multiple sales,” he notes. Visual merchandising dif fers from regular merchandising in that it primarily focuses on product in the front windows or near the entrance, but can include the overall look and theme of a store. Lighting Tops the List Having worked for a variety of stores, McDermid says that to optimize the look of

Spacing and Positioning It’s important to recognize the traffic flow of the store. “This is so your customer will shop the entire store with their attention focused where you would like it,” Bramson explains. “At entry, the product is in your window. This is called the silent sales person. As the customer enters, they usually go to the right.” This is your customer’s first impression of the store’s price point and assortment, so displaying the most expensive product near the front could be too overwhelming. “You should do compelling displays and merchandised bunks and tables throughout your store,” Bramson adds. “The trick is to keep them in the store and moving through.” Lisa Morris, co-owner of Creative Design agrees. As a wholesaler that sells merchandise and props for special events, and to stores and the film industry for movie

Marketing e ee sets, she says, “It’s very important that when you walk into any store, that customers have a place to stand and look around. If someone walks in and feels cramped, they’ll turn around and walk out.” When displaying handbags, McDermid says, “If you take all your black handbags, white handbags and other colours, and colour block them in different areas, you’ll get a nice feeling without having a black, red, blue and green handbag all on the same shelf.” Morris adds that one of the key things about a handbag that it needs to be stuf fe d a nd show n prop erl y, as if someone is already using it. “So you can see the shape and the detail. The best way, in my opinion, is to have a mannequin so you can see how it actually looks on you.” Others might design a window using only one brand name—such as Louis Vuitton. “There is no real rule,” McDermid says. “It depends on the type of store, your clientele and what they expect from you.” Definite Don’ts Topping the list of what not to do includes having poor lighting, unprofessional signage and dirty windows and clutter. “It’s important to have a really good maintenance system; taking care of burntout lights, and housekeeping needs to be immaculate,” says Morris. “People notice dirt rather than how neat a store is. They need to feel comfortable.”

Some retailers also make the mistake of blocking their entrance with sales items, says McDermid. “Studies have found that customers have a tendency to not go into those types of stores. Customers don’t want to feel trapped. They always want an exit plan.” Display Changes When it comes to how often a window should be changed, it primarily depends on the store’s product and traffic. If a store is getting new merchandise each season, the retailer should rotate their merchandise, says Morris. “They want to show people they’ve got new product, and if it is not new, they want to show customers something different. Generally every two to three weeks

would be good. If you’ve got really high traffic, you might have to up it to once a week,” she suggests. While this may seem daunting, she stresses that you don’t have to change the entire window. You might just change a couple of things or switch the props. “You’re telling people that you’ve got something new; come on in and have a look. If you have the same old window for six months, people are just going to keep walking by and thinking, I’ve already seen that, I don’t have to go in.” Be inventive, use your creativity and market your store and your product through clever displays. It’s well worth the investment. e Lisa Kopochinski is a freelance writer and can be reached at lisakop@sbcglobal.net

ADVERTISERS INDEX Thank you for participating in the Fall 2009 issue of TGF&A! Cabrelli Inc.

800-784-4750 cabrelli.ca

24, 25

Fulton Umbrellas (Canada) Ltd.

416-661-3493 fultonumbrellas.com

26

G.F-T Enterprises

888-359-9355 nojetlag.com

29

Hedgren Creations Canada Inc.

905-338-5843 hedgren.ca

16

Heys International Ltd.

905-361-4000 heys.ca

JBG International

905-624-8585 —

10

Joanel Inc., Les Diffusions

888-956-2635 joanel.ca

27

Ostba of Salzburg

905-857-9015 ostba.com

OutSource Aim Imports

450-510-3928 sacogrande.com

Samsonite Canada Inc.

800-265-4933 samsonite.ca

Sasha Canada Inc.

866-538-8555 sashacanada.com

Sonia Zarbatany

866-632-2555 —

Throat Threads Apparel

877-717-7466

IFC

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Fall 2009 29

e ee Industry News & Views

Has your company won an award? Is your CEO retiring? Are you moving offices? Opening a new store? Have you hired a new sales team? Acquired a new line? Do you want to share your views on an industry topic or event, or comment on something you’ve read in TGF&A? Do tell…your industry colleagues want to know about it! Any brief notes can be sent to the attention of the Editor, Lucie Grys, at lucieg@mediaedge.ca.

ACI Acquires New Brands ar 2 5th ye

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ACI Brands Inc. has acquired the distribution rights to the following ladies’ handbag brands for Canada – effective immediately: Ellen Tracy, Marc New York, Andrew Marc. The introduction of these brands to their portfolio of fashion brands rounds out their mix and makes ACI Brands that much stronger as a full, one-stop vendor shop for the best in ladies’ and men’s fashion accessories. Their current portfolio consists of Calvin Klein men’s and ladies’ belts; Calvin men’s wallets and accessories; Nine West belts and cold weather; Guess men’s and ladies’ belts; Jessica Simpson belts and cold weather; Ellie Tahari belts; Ann Klein belts; Kenneth Cole cold weather; and Nautica cold weather.

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