Denim - Inside out
Contents
1
The Undisputed King of Denim
15
Self Confessed Denim Geeks
53
Inside The Workshop
75
No Wash Club
83
The Art of Denim
115
Street Style
Denim Inside Out is a book a looking into the cultural significance of denim through its history right into to the modern day. Explore the subject and re-discover it as if you have never seen in before. Whether someone who wears denim without out even thinking about, someone who takes pride in the denim they wear or someone who doesn’t wear it all, their is something to discover in this book for everyone.
See where it all started, hear stories from the purists and the fashionistas - the people that know it best. Learn what it is to wear denim well. Photographs in this book are a mixture of 35mm film and digital giving you a mixed sense of denim through the ages. The photographs do not only just capture a moment in time but hold the image of the past and the journeys that the subjects have made to their current point. All photographs for this book were captured in New York, London and Bristol which give you a mix of heritage, tradition and modishness as well as everything in between.
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THE UNDISPUTED KING OF DENIM
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THE UNDISPUTED KING OF DENIM
When Levi Strauss partnered with tailor, Jacob Davis in 1873 on a patent for riveted pockets on work pants for Western pioneers, they couldn’t have dreamed of its impact on modern culture. From Steve McQueen to Steve Jobs the 501 has been part of our day to day lives. 140 years later and it is more popular to global culture and style than ever before.
In this chapter we would like to share a visual evolution of this American icon, and my favorite jeans. The Levi’s 501 story begins in 1890 – the 1st year the 501 lot number was assigned to the iconic 501 jean. Starting from 1890 through today, looking closely at the historical design evolution of the 501 and how the blue jean has subtly evolved through the years.
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Deemed Time Magazine’s ‘Fashion Item of the 20th Century’ the original Levi’s 501 button fly jean is an American icon that has been woven and stitched deeply into our world’s cultural heritage. From presidents to movie stars, farmers to fashion icons, entrepreneurs to the everyday man, the cultural significance of Levi’s 501 jeans has been defined by the people who wear them. No other product has been worn, loved or re-imagined quite like Levi’s 501 jeans. A symbol of individuality and universality the 501 jean is the ultimate expression of personal style, worn by the pioneers who shape our world, generation after generation.
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THE UNDISPUTED KING OF DENIM
No item of clothing is more popular than the blue jean invented in 1873 by Levi Strauss. His vision and creativity turned denim, thread and a little metal into the most common clothing project in the world. The first jeans were used by the majority of the workers in America and were referred to as waist overalls. The name of jeans, however, was not officially adopted until the 1960’s. jeans have been a part of the American culture for over 100 years and continue to evolve with each passing year.
Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patented the jeans reinforced with rivets in 1873. The first Levi’s pants were made of a fabric called “duck canvas” in an orange brown (a very thick cotton canvas) and later with rough blue denim. The blue denim turned out to be the most popular among the options. There are two initial models of Levi’s jeans, known as the ‘XX’ (the 501 ancestor) and Nevada (which looks good for work wear.)Nevada is an affectionate nickname that this second model received for being found in the Nevada desert and bought by Levi’s for $42,000. The first pants had only one back pocket and also shoulder straps, a back buckle at the waist, and a selvedge line at the inside of the waist and at the side of the legs (selvedge only with white stripe, no red detail). At this time the rivets
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were apparent and the design of the Levi’s bow in the back pocket was a little different. The jeans still did not have the red label in their pockets or the leather patch (which was later replaced by other material) on the left side of the waist.
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A loose anti-fit waist overall DENIM - INSIDE OUT
THE UNDISPUTED KING OF DENIM
1873 – Jacob Davies writes to Levi Strauss, telling him about the process he invented, to rivet the pocket corners of men’s pants to make them stronger. He suggests the two men take out a patent on the process together and Levi agrees.
1886 – Two horse leather patch is first used on waist overalls. 1890 – Lot numbers are first assigned to the products being manufactured. 501 is used to designate the famous copper riveted waist overalls.
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To face the competition they decorated the fabric of the inner pockets with information about the brand, originality, and strength of the pieces. At this point in the championship the piece of leather with two horses printed had already appeared behind the pants, on the right side of the waist. The exact information of when this detail appeared and what the original design was like is lost in the rubble of Levi’s archives, hit by an earthquake in 1903. The jeans continued to wear only four pockets, with the hand-sewn Levis bow in the back pocket.
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1873 – Levi Strauss and Jacob Davies are granted a patent on the process of riveting pants by the U.S. patent and trademark office. The patent number is 39721 and this is the invention of the blue jean. - Overalls (later renamed as jeans) feature back pocket with arcuate, watch pocket, cinch and suspender buttons. - Overalls are called “XX” – the name of the high quality denim used.
The trousers of 1890 were the first created after the patent expired, granting Levi’s exclusivity to manufacture clothes reinforced with rivets. This was the year in which the name 501 was born. The numbering system was to facilitate the inventory of shopkeepers, who were more easily organized by number than by description. Levi’s already produced a complete line and all the pieces were numbered: 501 for trousers, 506 for jackets, etc.
EVALUATION
1853 – Levi Strauss arrives in San Francisco and opens a wholesale dry goods business, selling clothing, blankets, handkerchief’s etc. to small general store throughout the American west.
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THE UNDISPUTED KING OF DENIM
A wide and relaxed fit DENIM - INSIDE OUT
THE UNDISPUTED KING OF DENIM
1922 – Belt loops are added to the overalls, but the suspender buttons are still retained. The cinch is also still used on the pants, but some men cut it off in order to wear the overalls with a belt 1928 – ‘Levis®’ becomes a registered trademark. 1936 – The red tab is first placed onto the right back pocket f the overalls. The word ‘LEVIS’ is stitched in white in all capital letters on one side only.
Levi’s had the right to include this label for having adopted the labour rules imposed by President Franklin Roosevelt during the Great Depression. Their was now a red tab that appeared in the back pocket, a new way to separate Levi’s from the
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competitors. The second is that the rivets of the back pockets are now covered by the fabric, a solution not to scratch the furniture. The stitching was wider at the ends to bypass the metal of the rivets and the pockets came with a booklet of arrows pointing out saying “the rivets are still here”.The suspender buttons were also gone, but were still sold as an option to be put on time.
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1937 – The back pockets on the overalls are sewn so that they cover the rivet. This is in response to consumers who complained that the rivets scratched furniture and saddles.
An interesting curiosity is that hidden beneath the leather flap was a white label that was only visible after the leather began to shrink. The label had a white eagle and the letters NRA, which was the act of national recovery.
501 EVALUATION
1901 – The pants now just called overalls, now have two back pockets.
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A classic slim fit with a straight leg DENIM - INSIDE OUT
THE UNDISPUTED KING OF DENIM
1942 – changes are made to the overalls in order to conform to rules set by the war production board for the conservation of raw materials. The crotch rivet, watch pockets rivets and back cinch are removed to save fabric and metal. The Arcuate stitching design is removed as the thread is decorative only and not vital to usefulness of the garment. In order to keep the design on the pants each pair has them painted on instead.
1947 is an important year for the 501. Now the pants have all the modern features. The red tag in the back pocket, five pockets, no suspender, no buckle, no rivet on the hawk and with a belt. The difference in today’s trousers is that the waistband is still leather (with two horses) and the red label has the word LEVI’S all-rounder (today the letter “e” is minuscule).
sold on the other side. Many people already knew the jeans but for many the pants was still a novelty, especially the fact that the clasp of the hawk is with buttons. To solve this problem Levi’s has released a zippered version, the 501Z. It was the same pants, but with a zipper instead of a button.
In 1954 jeans that Levi’s started selling jeans on the east coast of the United States. Until then it only
1950’s – The leather patch is replaced by a two-horse patch made of heavy duty card stock, known as ‘leather like.’ 1953 – ‘LEVIS’ stitched on both sides of the tab. 1954 – ‘501Z’ with zipper introduced.
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1947 – The post war version of the 501 jeans start coming off the production line. The cinch is gone forever, the rivets are put back on the watch pocket and the arcuate is now stitched on with a double needle machine which gives it the diamond shape at the point where the two lines of stitching meet.
EVALUATION
1943 – Arcuate is registered as a trademark.
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A zip fly and narrow tapered leg DENIM - INSIDE OUT
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1963 – ‘Pre-shrunk’ jeans introduced. 1971 – The word Levi’s on the red tab device is now stitched in with only a capital ‘L’ only. 1984 – Pre-washed 501 jeans first offered in stone wash finish.
Many East Coast schools banned students from wearing jeans in class. They said that although the pants were appropriate for a wild
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west school in San Francisco, they were not tasteful in the city’s schools. The ban ended up making jeans a symbol of youth rebellion. The rivets of the back pockets are gone, replaced by tacks. The two horses’ warranty also went away from the faux leather flap, and some seams are black nylon instead of cotton. When Levi’s covered the rivets everyone thought that the problem of the scratched furniture was going to disappear, but not. With the time of wear and tear of the pocket, the sturdy metal appeared again. The tacks were a sturdier and flatter solution.
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1961 – The rivets are removed from the back pockets and replaced with bar tacking. This is due to the fact that the strong rivets eventually wore through the denim exposing them and causing the problems that led to their being covered back in 1937 from scratching furniture.
An interesting detail at this time made the link to pass the belt, was not centred on the back of the pants. It was probably to facilitate sewing, which passed the line through a thinner point of the jeans. Speaking of jeans, it was in the 1950’s that this type of pants began to be called that way. Before, the “jeans” were “overalls”.
501 EVALUATION
1960 – The word ‘overals’ is replaced by the word ‘jeans’ in advertising and on packaging. Other products in the past had been called jeans, (specifically denim pants for boys in the late 1930’s) but the top of the range line overalls – 501 jeans, did not get this name until teenagers started calling the overalls this name.
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THE UNDISPUTED KING OF DENIM
A slim fit with square top and low rise DENIM - INSIDE OUT
THE UNDISPUTED KING OF DENIM
1986 – Innovative TV commercials featuring classic American rock music mixed with nostalgia and romance are aired in Europe.
The main change of the pants in the late 70’s was the red sticker on the back pocket that changed from LEVI’S® to Levis®. To some extent, Levi’s pants were all shrink to fit, meaning the fabric was not sanformed (pre-shrunk). The person needed to buy bigger pants and then wash them for the perfect fit. This method is still used on some Levi’s special trousers, and many replica and reproduction brands also use fabrics like that.
1996 – Building on the success of the capital E product, a new series of vintage reproductions – called Levis Vintage Clothing is introduced in stores worldwide.
2003 – In the same year that LS&CO celebrates the company’s 150th anniversary and the 130th anniversary of the invention of jeans, the Levis Strauss & Co archives acquires the world’s oldest pair of 501 jeans 1879. 2008 – 501 jeans for woman are introduced as the original Boyfriend fit. 2016 – The 501CT is introduced for men as well as woman, which features a tapered leg, playing on the original boyfriend fit. 2017 – 501 Skinny is introduced for men and woman, styled on the 501 original the 501 skinny is dubbed as ‘todays original, tomorrows icon.’
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2000 – The 501 Jeans was voted the world’s fashion item of the 20th Century by TIME magazine.
501 EVALUATION
1992 – Due to the interest of ‘vintage’ Levi’s jeans part of the consumer worldwide, LS&CO introduces the capital E jean in the United States.
Besides the lower environmental impact, this cloth leaves the process more fun and allows a trim shaped according to the body of each one. The practice is to put the wet pants on and let it dry on the body, because that way the fabric conforms better instead of shrinking equally throughout its length.
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
Denim is a lot more then just a piece of fabric to some people, it is a way of life. A reason for them to wake up in the morning. It is something that has been passed down from generation to generation, through family, friends and other relationships. Every person has their own unique story to tell. For some it many it is something we take for granted, for some it is a livelihood.
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Self confessed denim geeks, a chapter speaking to the purists, the people of the industry, the people who live and breath denim. Get to know the people are most passionate about the fabric, find out where their love for the fabric began and get an insight into denim from an insider, from the people who care about it most.
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
Joshua Tafoya Store Manager - Self Edge Denim - Iron heart 50’s 501 replica, 25oz
“My passion for denim began once my grandfather passed away. I inherited vintage navy uniform, which consisted of many denim items. As I grew older my journey continued as I worked in thrifts stores to help me fund my studies DENIM - INSIDE OUT
at college. I currently have 9 pairs of jeans which I wear on rotation. I used to be a collector of denim but I decided to narrow down my jeans only keeping my favourites.”
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
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CONSISTENCY, TIMELESS”
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
Tovah Nosti-Menéndez Tailor Ambassador - Levis Denim - 501 Original shrink-to-fit selvedge
“I love denim for its quality, especially Japanese denim. This is because most of the mills their that spin the cloth are family run, meaning that their expertise have been passed down from generation to generation DENIM - INSIDE OUT
making it an unbeatable quality. I’m a huge admirer of the skill and passion which goes into producing good quality denim. I don’t like to customise my denim because I prefer a more natural look. There’s nothing more I love then breaking in a pair of raw indigo selvedge denim and seeing what characteristics the jeans create over time.”
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Bristol DENIM - INSIDE OUT
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SKILL, HISTORY”
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
Ryan King Manager - Blue in Green Denim - Pure Blue Japan Cobalt Denim Jeans
“I began working in the industry in Europe around 12 years ago at brands such as ACNE & PRPS. I fell in love when I discovered Japanese produced denim and all the different kinds of treatments you can get done to your jeans. DENIM - INSIDE OUT
My favourite type of denim is raw indigo because of its versatility, you just cant beat it. I used to be an avid collector until I got married... Now I only keep hold of considered pieces only.�
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e n N e w Y o r k . DENIM - INSIDE OUT
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“TRADITION, DURABILITY, PAGE_32
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
Todd Stuart Master Tailor - Levis Jeans, Meatpacking, New York Denim - LVD 505, Selvedge 160z
“I’ve worked in Levi’s as tailor for one year now, but prior to this I had my own studio down in Bushwick where I have been making jeans since 2009. My passion for denim began when I was young, I was a very ‘hands on’ kid and liked DENIM - INSIDE OUT
to fix my jeans by sewing and patching them after they had ripped after being out on my bike. This then grew into a desire to customise my denim through distressing it.”
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
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UNIQUE, INDIVIDUAL” DENIM - INSIDE OUT
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
Richard Lara Manager - 3 x 1 Denim - Custom made Engineers Boiler suit
“I have been wearing denim my whole life like most people, as I grew older started to develop a taste for fashion, I discovered raw and washed out selvedge denim and this where my love with it began to blossom. I love the whole DENIM - INSIDE OUT
process of getting new jeans, from picking out which pair to buy, along with the whole process of breaking them in. (Without washing them of course.) My favourite Piece of denim I own are a pair of carpenters jeans. I gave my friend a pair of raw Japanese jeans and told him to wear them every day to work for a year. Once I had received them back they had completely changed. They had gained natural characteristics making them a truly unique pair, which only I own, for this reason I only wear them out on special occasions.�
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
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“WAY OF ”
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
Paul Hodgson Manager & Tailor - Rivet and Hide Denim - Dawson Denim X Rivet & Hide Slim Tapered
“For me, the thing that got me really interested in denim were the Levi’s Shrink-tofit television adverts in the late 80’s. They had really cool soundtracks and just appealed to me. I love the constant evolution that denim has and how an item DENIM - INSIDE OUT
will change over time. For me its hard to pin down an all time favourite item, my taste has changed over the years and is still open to change so I wouldn’t really say I have a favourite item.”
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R i v e t
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H i d e L D N . DENIM - INSIDE OUT
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
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VISUAL EVALUATION” DENIM - INSIDE OUT
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SELF CONFESSED DENIM GEEKS
Elizabeth Radcliffe Master Tailor - Levis Lot No1, Regent St. London Denim - Levis heavy denim over shirt
“At first I was more suited to full outfits as I worked on Saville Row as a tailor. I mostly worked with heavyweight fabrics such as tweed and other alternatives, This then led me onto denim and now I am working where I am today, I haven’t looked DENIM - INSIDE OUT
back (In terms of fabric.) I currently own 12 pairs of Lot No1 jeans, 8 pairs of standard Levis and roughly 12 other pairs. I don’t like to give any pairs away as each has a story to tell and has sentimental value to me.”
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“LIKE AN
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
Denim is a huge part of our culture and it doesn’t matter what kind of lifestyle you live, it is part of the great uniform of life. It’s incredible that a product that was created in 1853 is still the most popular product worn by everybody today.
Take a look inside the workshops and tailor shops that deal exclusively with denim. Master tailors work within these environments on a daily basis making brand new jeans from scratch, altering Lengths and repairing rips and tears.
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Our favourite jeans age beautifully over time. That’s why when some jeans are made they have been created with a natural worn in Jean pattern, which gives a stencil of time on the jeans, sometimes this even means recreating the imperfections.
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
Different rolls of denim await to be cut down into smaller sections and then made into the garment. It takes roughly 3.5 of fabric to make a pair of jeans.
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
Rolls of denim.
Cutting denim with fabric scissors.
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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Finished garments hang in the workshop.
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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Tailor cuts out sections of denim that have been measured and marked with chalk.
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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Choices of thread. DENIM - INSIDE OUT
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
More then just a machine.
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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The truth is in the details.
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
Union special 43200 chain stitch machine.
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
Tailor working on a garment.
Key elements to a pair of jeans. DENIM - INSIDE OUT
INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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Arcuate being stitched onto a back pocket with a double needle JUKI sewing machine.
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
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Examples of pocket linings, belt loops and buttons displayed and ready to be chosen by the customer.
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
Custom made patchwork apron.
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INSIDE THE WORKSHOP
Selvedge denim works the foot pedal.
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NO WASH CLUB
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NO WASH CLUB
For many, finding a pair of jeans they like, find comfortable and that fit well can be quite a struggle. The overwhelming choice of colours and styles in the modern day can sometimes get in the way of people finding the right product for themselves.
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What many people don’t realise is that finding the right pair for you is only the start. How you treat and look after your jeans post-purchase will directly effect their quality, shop, colour and how long they last. For many would nearly laugh once they are told ‘you shouldn’t wash your jeans in the machine’ when they are told this by a shop worker, but in a matter of fact your new denim jeans are a delicate material they have special needs, and yes putting them in the freezer is better for them then putting them in the machine!
NO WASH CLUB
The no wash club is a small elite club. Most people want to join, but aren’t willing to make the sacrifices involved. At the end of the 6 months you will have shaped your jeans into a unique pair that only you could have made. After the first wash you will have one of the most
beautiful pairs of jeans that you have ever owned. Each crease, each line, will have been put there by you.You will have lessened the impact of the environment simply by abstaining from washing them. The end result is that when you finally go to wash the jeans, you will have one
of the most beautiful pair of jeans on the planet. One that is unique to you. No matter how hard a jeans maker try’s, no factory can do that.
Rule 01: Six months without washing. Yes really. Rule 02: No cold dips in the bath.
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Rule 03: No showers. Rule 04: Rain happens. Get an umbrella. Rule 05: Freezing them is allowed. Rule 06: Airing them on a washing line is allowed. Rule 07: Rest days are allowed. Rule 08: No cheating. If you think you are up for the challenge, follow the 8 rules above. I would recommend in buying a pair of selvedge raw unwashed denim for best results. If you are reading this and don’t believe it, that’s even more
of a reason to try it.You may think not washing your clothes is un-hygienic but in actual fact it is possible to keep your denim fresh without washing them once a week. Putting your jeans in
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the freezer actually does get rid of odours! You will also save water at the same time and increase the lifespan of your denim, as washing them doesn’t do much good for the material.
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Washing your denim can sometimes feel daunting. Many different shops and manufactures recommend different things for the care of your denim and lets be honest, who actually reads the small wash tab on the inside of your jeans? If you’ve invested in a great pair of Japanese, American or Italian selvedge denim, then you have gone to the trouble to buy the very best there is. Now you have to look after them. Finally you have now reached the point of, well, where your jeans are ready to be introduced to a new substance that goes by the name of water.
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11 Essential tips to washing a pair of jeans. 1. Turn jeans inside out.
2. Wash alone.
3. Fill your bath with cold or lukewarm water.
This will help to prevent bleeding. And give a more even fade. It will also allow more exposure to water and detergent to the dirtiest part of the jeans, which are, counter- intuitively, the inside as, they are closest to the skin.
Some things in life you have to do alone. Washing jeans is one of those things. Quite simply, denim bleeds blue blood. And will ruin anything that is lighter in colour that you wash it with. This is a mistake you will only commit once.
It is best to hand wash your jeans. This will help to cut back on wear and tear as it’s a much gentler experience for the fibres. Also, hands are good thermometers, they won’t allow you to have the water too hot.
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NO WASH CLUB
4. Add a mild detergent. Wait for it to dissolve before putting jeans in. Use a mild detergent. But don’t overuse it. It’s always tempting to think that more detergent = more clean. But this can lead to a build up of detergent that will oddly make your jeans dirtier.
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That’s because when all that detergent meets body oils and sweat, it doesn’t end well. It can produce an odour, which follows you around the room. Alternatively, you can also just use 1 cup of vinegar and 1 tablespoon of salt, this method is also believed by enthusiasts to help the indigo stay in the fabric better.
5. 45 minutes should do it.
6. Triple rinse.
7. Don’t wring ‘em.
Submerge the jeans fully. If the jeans float, use something heavy to hold them down. Allow them to soak in the water. Nothing to see here. Move along. Go and make yourself a cup of tea.
If you refill and drain the bath three times with clean water, this will give you the best result. The first one will get rid of the dirt. The second will get rid of the grime, and the third one is just to make double sure.
There is always a temptation to take your wet jeans and wring them. Don’t. It will twist and break down the fibres. Just roll them up and press firmly on them to release water.
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8. Drying ‘em.
9. Put them back on when 90% dry.
There are a few ways to achieve this. Lay them flat. Lay them on a towel so it absorbs the water. Or hang them up in the shower and let them drip dry. Or even better, put them outside. Let the wind do the work. Avoid direct sunlight.
Don’t let them dry out 100%. A little dampness supplies a little give. That will allow you to stretch them back to as they were before washing. This is all part of the ebb and flow of a washing a pair of jeans.
Nearly there. For a selvedge denim that is 100% cotton, then set your iron to a high heat (cotton) setting using steam. If your selvedge has any stretch in it, you will need a cooler iron setting.
11. Store on a hanger.
To protect your jeans use a tea towel cloth between the iron and the jeans. A good rule of thumb is to iron the pocket bags first. Then lay one leg at a time flat on the ironing board matching your seams (side to side).
Find a good wooden hanger. And fold them over at the knee so that the waist hangs down facing the floor. There you have it, a clean pair of super high-quality selvedge jeans just waiting to be worn.
Iron the selvedge seams flat and then iron the inside of the leg. Then swap the leg over and do the other side. Repeat this process for the second leg. Lastly, iron the waistband. And then you’re done.
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10. Always iron damp jeans inside out.
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3 No No’s. 1. No tumble dryer - This is the worst thing you can do for a pair of jeans. 2. No bleach A close second.
1.Turn Jeans Inside Out.
If you don’t have an area to hand wash you jeans, this is not a problem. There is nothing wrong with popping your denim in the washing machine. There are a few tips though to get the best results if using this method. We wouldn’t recommend to wash anything else with your jeans as the indigo will bleed.
Turning your jeans inside out will help stop the indigo from running too much. This will also stop and buttons and rivets hitting against the drum.
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3. Too much detergent - More detergent doesn’t mean more clean, Use sparingly.
Tips for Machine Washing.
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2. Add denim friendly detergent. Use a denim friendly detergent, The laundress, Mr Black or Dr Bronner Castile soap are widely used. These detergents also help to preserves the colour, fades and quality of your precious jeans.You can also used the ratio of 1 cup of vinegar and 1 tablespoon of salt to use instead of a detergent.
3. Cycle Setting. You want the washing machine to replicate the gentlest factors of a human hand washing. If you can stop your machine before the spin cycle it would be better for your jeans to be taken out before this stage. Vertical crease lines can be created from the spin cycle. If you can’t stop your machine before the spin, set the washing machine on the lowest spin and temperature setting. Nothing hotter then 30 degree celsius. Once the machine has finished the wash do not leave your jeans in the drum, this will create wash lines. If you have taken you denim out before the
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spin cycle, you will need to wring the water out. Roll your jeans up and realise the water. Do not twist the jeans. out before the spin cycle, you will need to wring the water out. Roll your jeans up and realise the water. Do not twist the jeans. 4. Drying. Hung over a shower rod overnight is the best option as its indoors and away from sunlight. When they are still slightly damp, put them on to stretch them out.You can also let them dry laying flat. Do not tumble dry. The dryer is denim kryptonite, the dryer damages the cotton and weakens the fabric.
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THE ART OF DENIM
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We sat down with the young artists to talk about their work, how much they like icons of nostalgia, and find out where is it exactly do they get their crazy and unique ideas from.
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More and more, artists and illustrators are working within fashion, using it as an outlet for their work and garnering a whole new audience with it. In this chapter we speak to up and coming artists who are beginning to make a name for themselves with their distinctive styles.
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as well as producing artwork for the likes of Stussy, Stones Throw Records and Converse among others.
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Alley Kats is a Bristol based one man studio, producing streetwear, prints, and artwork. Since it’s birth in 2012 Alley Kats has created multiple streetwear ranges
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Q1. Your work seems to combine lots of bold graphics, heavy lines and bright colours, where do you look for your inspiration/ideas?
A1. “I’m constantly looking through magazines such as juxtapose, which is my favourite and just literally looking through books. At the moment I’m really into old Russian sci-fi posters, it sounds f*cking weird but I just came across them online and they’re a real good source of inspiration. To be honest it’s quite a mixed bag, it kind of changes months in months out, Like one month
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ill be really stoked on one thing and then the next ill find something else. It is just kind of a resort of trying to look at as many different things as possible. I know its kind of random but yeah, just magazines, books, and old films. Actually I kind of find Instagram really sick, I know it’s a bit of an obvious answer but there’s always something new to discover on there.”
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Q2. You’ve already worked with quite a few big names and brands since starting up in 2012, how did you come about these collaborations and which were your favourite to work on?
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the creative director for Stones throw, and it was probably about 6 months before I got the job I was emailing him saying that I was a big fan of the label, and that I was just wandering if you had any advice. I didn’t actually ask him for work, I just wanted to show him my portfolio and see what
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A2. “My favourite one would be, this wasn’t necessarily an Alley Kats collaboration but it was some artwork that I did for a poster for Stones Throws Records and Stussy. I almost sh*t a brick when I got that email. I couldn’t believe it. It was quite random actually I emailed Geoff Jank who is
he had to say about it and then about 6 months later completely out of the blue I just got this email from him saying; Yo we need an artist to do this, do you want to do it? And I was just like f*cking hell yes! Defiantly, yeah. But yeah to be honest man for every one that I get there’s probably a f*cking ton of rejections. It’s a case of just relentlessly emailing people just trying to get your work out there. The converse one, a friend actually brought me in on it, so word of mouth is always good but yeah its kind of just the result of emailing people and pissing people off. Even if its just asking them if they have any advice or what do you think of this. Just whatever reason it is getting your work out there. So many people that are in positions to give sick jobs are always super busy, so its just a case of trying to stay on their radar and regularly drop them a message so that when they do get a job in they probably don’t have time to think and go through a big list of emails and portfolios they will just want to think, oh yeah I know this guy has been sending some good work my way.”
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Q3. Why do you choose to use denim as one of your canvases?
A3. “One of the first things that actually got me into it, I would have to say was graffiti. In the 80s and early 90s it was a massive thing for graffiti artists to paint the back of their denim jackets, this was mainly a New York thing. I just always found that such a sick little thing for their culture, like it’s just a really cool little trait of theirs. I don’t know I just
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kind of a bit more interesting for me personally to look at rather then just painting on a traditional canvas. As much as I like painting it can sometimes get a bit boring, whereas I find painting on denim or clothing is just a lot more fun really. I like how it comes with the whole DIY aesthetic, like if you fuck it up a bit, its not really an issue that’s just how it will look.”
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Q4. Over the years denim has long been associated with customization, with people like the hippies, bikers, rockers to name a few. Do you feel today people are still as interested in denim as they were 50 years ago?
A4. “It seems to me that there has been a massive revival recently in the whole DIY thing and just the whole analog revival in general. I think people seem
to be a lot more interested in things at the moment such as buying vinyl rather then downloading MP3s or shooting on film rather then with a digital camera.�
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Q5. When creating new work do you tend to head towards a more methodical process or do you prefer a more natural laid back approach to things?
A.5 “I’m defiantly more in the laid back group, I’ve tried a lot of different techniques, and I read books and try so many times to organise myself but I found what works for me best is just making products and realising them. Rather then trying to get a S/S and A/W collection together which I think suits bigger brands more because obviously they are selling more to wholesalers and they want to look good in a
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catalogue. Where as I think one of the cool things about being a small brand is that you can have the freedom to just do as you want. For example at the moment I’m working on these camo jackets, if they work well I can make more and if they don’t I can move onto the next thing. Which I think is a pretty fun way to work, it takes away the pressure a little bit.”
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Q6. Have you ever sold anything to a celebrity or remotely famous?
Q7. Anything exiting in the pipeline that you can reveal?
A6. “I’ve had a few people with some of my t-shirts but I don’t think they would really register as someone famous as such. Nightmares on Wax and a few other DJs and producers.”
A7. “Not at the moment unfortunately, I’m just going to be keeping on pushing my
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own products and working on my designs. I wish I had a big juicy project that I could reveal to you but no I’m just going to be keeping on working on my stuff.”
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Billy Kills is a Bristol based student artist who has been known to produce an varied array of work from fine portraiture paintings, to mixed media artwork and even street art. He breaks the boundaries of artist styles and is a real master of his work, defining himself as a true contemporary artist.
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Q1. How did you get into art? When did you decide that it was the thing that you wanted to peruse?
A1. “Ever since I was little, man. I used to collect bank notes. Money from all over the world and I used to do portraits of the faces on the notes. Ever since I was little my dad kept this photograph DENIM - INSIDE OUT
of a Korean man that I used to draw. Since then I just remember always wanting to do art. It was either that or making fires in the woods! I was either playing curbie, or drawing.�
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Q2. Where does the name come from?
A2. “Its actually proper weird man, it actually came from nowhere. Ever since I got into graffiti when I was around 14, which was also around the time I started skating.You would see people’s alter-egos through their painting and
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stuff but for me it was actually around 3 years ago when I was on my foundation course, and I drew a mouse and thought, I’m going to call you Billy kills. I literally just thought of a name out of nowhere, I liked it because the words sit well together and the way it rolls off the tongue I find makes it aesthetically pleasing. Its sort of like the artist KAWS. He doesn’t have a meaning for his name. it’s just K-A-W-S. When I used to do tags back in the day, my name was Beaver Boy, but that’s just a bit dead. I used to draw quite a few beavers but I just couldn’t see them going anywhere. Whereas I feel a mouse is more of a versatile animal.”
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Q3. Your work seems to be a mixture of traditional fine art as well as contemporary mixed media pieces. How do you decide which process to use for different types of work?
A3, “I think on my foundation I was a lot more conserved to one thing, like if I was going to make something I would just make one clay sculpture or I would just do fine portraiture or something like that. But now I’m more kind of like playing around with all the different skills I have learned, just trying to put them together into the same thing. I have done
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paintings with clay bits on them before. I still don’t think I have fully found my style or myself yet completely. I just want to try and put as many things as I can into one thing. I have done illustration and sculpture as well as everything else in between and I cant say I know what it is that I enjoy doing the most or the best.”
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Q4. What is it you like about using clothing such as denim as a canvas to work on?
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A4. “The first thing I ever did was the jacket, mainly because I couldn’t afford to buy one myself that I liked. I also liked the whole idea of the DIY style. Clothing is important to me, like I’ve also been interested in clothing and how I look so I think being able to combine my skill as an artist with the clothes I like to wear, adding my own things to it is really cool. I think was I really like is the individuality of it. I don’t DENIM - INSIDE OUT
like the idea of other people having the same thing as me. I would love to be able to sell my own pieces, but at the same time I have never put anything up for sale. I have never actually sold a painting or anything. I mean I have done commissions but I have never actually put up a painting of mine for sale. I don’t really feel like I should yet because I wouldn’t say that I have found my style.”
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Q5. Over the years denim has long been associated with customization, with people like the hippies, bikers, rockers to name a few. Do you feel today people are still as interested in denim as they were 50 years ago?
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A5. “I feel like today everything is done by the fashion industry. People are buying into denim culture because its what is hot at the moment. Where as 50 years ago you had the bikers, which were a real culture.You had the real individual cults that were wearing different types of denim, but I think now it has just all bled into
one platform of denim. For instance you could go onto one website and get all types of denim styles from hells angels but also other pop styles which before would have never fallen into the same category. I feel like denim has just fizzled out into one big open space, but to be honest everything reaches a point where it does that. Like with art, it’s DENIM - INSIDE OUT
really hard to come up with your own artist style or find something new that hasn’t already been done. 50 years ago was an important time for the world as a whole, especially for contemporary art and fashion. Its all come from one very basic thing, then people started to get really creative and playful with it all.”
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Q6. Over the years denim has long been associated with customization, with people like the hippies, bikers, rockers to name a few. Do you feel today people are still as interested in denim as they were 50 years ago?
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A6. “As an artist when people look at other people’s technique, I actually have the worst technique you will ever find.You will literally see me painting with like the end of my finger halfway through the painting and different brushes cut up. I guess you could say it is good way of working. I mean it’s a productive way as in I’m using as little materials
as possible since I cant afford to buy new things all the time so I find myself re-using and re-using different tools. Scraping into things with knives, I’ve painted with pegs from the washing line, anything’s that’s got a cool texture. I’ve used laces to stamp on things before. On a painting I did I used a floor brush to do one whole
stroke. So I put all the paint on. Brown, white and then black over the top and then literally did it in one brush stroke and it looks like I spent hours doing that part but I literally did it in a couple of minutes. I don’t even have a water pot half the time which I think is just laziness, like ill just sit their and think I cant be bothered to go and fill up the water pot, so instead ill just start licking the brushes and cleaning them with my mouth. That’s actually probably really bad for me thinking about it, acrylic is not good for you at all, so its probably f*cking my lungs and sh*t like that but you know, it gets the job done a bit quicker.”
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Q7. When creating new work, where do you go too for inspiration and ideas?
A7, “Drugs. Hallucinogenics a lot of the time or when I’m really stoned. I like being on my own, I don’t like being surrounded by people and things, I like just being in an open space, going for walks somewhere were I can just completely shut myself off. A thing that inspires me a lot is textures. Back in school I used to take a lot of photos
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of real close ups of walls or wet moss and other stuff like that.You can capture shapes and movements that you can’t see when looking at things as a whole. So if I wanted to make something look wet or shiny I would just take a close up of whatever it was and then you would just kind of try and replicate what it was.”
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Q8. You’re still in the early days of your artistic career, what are your aspirations for the future?
A8. “My mum keeps telling me to stop this course now and go straight into a teaching course. She really worried that I’m not going to go anywhere. But no I do have serious aspirations. I would like to be a recognized commercial artist, but it’s getting there. Obviously its very rare an artist can just
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go straight into that but I would like to try and enter some award competitions. I think competitions are really important for artists, especially national ones. If you want to get anywhere I feel like you have to be in those competitions to become recognized, unless your very lucky.”
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STREET STYLE
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It only takes a matter of time for these influences to filter down into the high street shops and mainstream of modern society. People these days are more and more particular with the clothes they wear and how they wear them and denim is seen to be flourishing more then ever in today’s fashion.
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In recent years denim has began to slowly lose its association with the working class and tradesmen. Although these links have not been completely diminished, denim is making its way more and more into the high fashion world with famous designers and models getting more creative and using denim in ways that it has never been used before.
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Acknowledgements A special thanks to everyone involved in the process of this book Self Edge - New York Levi’s - Park St. Bristol Blue in Green - New York Levi’s - Meatpacking 3 X 1 - New York Rivet & Hide - London Levi’s - Regents St. London Alley Kats Billy Kills Everyone photographed
Produced: Robbie Gray Photography: Robbie Gray Illustrations: Robbie Gray Writer: Robbie Gray Edited: Robbie Gray Printed: Taylor Brothers Bristol Ltd