A gothic tale paired with something delicious

Oh, the treasures I find

A passion for the Centro Histórico’s streetscapes inspires a content creator and her online followers

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY STEPHANIE CARMON

I find

Since I first arrived here 11 years ago, the streets of Mérida’s Centro Histórico have been where I find peace, healing, inspiration as well as a mix-match of architectural treasures.

I personally use the streets of Mérida for exercise and as my mental health “counselor” so to speak. Whatever problem I might have, whether overworked, heartbroken, nervous, or just melancholy, the calles here make me feel better. They give me a new perspective and a plethora of strange and new things to discover.

These streets consist of layer upon layer of time passed that can be seen by the naked eye and felt through your sixth sense. As you go for a stroll you can glance at the beautifully restored colonial houses and peek through the wrought iron gates of the derelict remnants of mansions in utter ruins. All on the same street!

I was so intrigued, I created MID CityBeat and have built a large Instagram and Facebook following, many of whom follow us because of the photographs I take of the old streets of Mérida.

For those who are looking to find ideas for a home, all you need to do is take an evening walk around Mérida’s historic center and just observe — really observe. Look at the details of your surroundings and try not to get distracted by conversation or your smartphone. Just let the buildings and corners speak to you as they do to me. Notice specifics about the antique doors, frames, iron gates, grand archways, pasta tile floors, and their surroundings. Don’t be afraid to peer in through the window of an abandoned house. There are treasures to be found and maybe some ghosts or aluxes,* too! The Maya was the dominating culture in the area for around 3,500 years before the Spanish arrived. In 1542, the Spanish city of Mérida was built on the remains of the Maya city of T'hó. In the Centro around the Plaza Grande, we can find buildings and houses that date back to the 1600s and were built with stones from the Maya pyramids. The colonial architecture is characterized by high beamed ceilings, broad windows, majestic archways, elaborate interior patios, spacious hallways constructed with limestone blocks. That same limestone was mixed with paint to add vibrant colors to the building facade. In Santiago, La Ermita, Santa Ana, and other colonial neighborhoods we can still see evidence of these traits. Although there are many styles reflected in Mérida’s architecture, it was during the dictatorship of Porfidio Diaz from 1876 to 1911 — a period known as the Porfiriato — that brought some significant influences to the architecture of the elite in all of Mexico, including Yucatán. Made wealthy from a booming henequen industry, many landowners built luxurious homes in Mérida, mimicking the royalty and the wealthy bourgeoisie of Europe. This tendency changed the architectural landscape and you can see Footnote it reflected in iconic buildings that remain on Paseo de *An alux is a Montejo and throughout the Centro. sprite or spirit in Venturing into buying or renting a home in Yucatán, the mythological it is important to get a good sense of the complex and tradition of Maya dynamic narrative of Yucatán and integrate it into your peoples from the own history of the self. It is a great opportunity to design Yucatán Peninsula a space that stays true to you and that fits into this and Guatemala. tropical ambiance. As is the story of Yucatán and all the They are miniature Americas, this land is a melting pot of cultures and ideas people who are and a place to let your creativity soar while standing usually invisible, firmly on the ground of living history.  but they will make themselves pres- Stephanie Carmon is the founding editor of MID CityBeat, ent to play tricks which highlights the region’s rich culture and arts, gastronomy, on or communi- tourism, music, and recommends local businesses. Follow cate with humans. @midcitybeat on Instagram and Facebook and visit midcitybeat.com.

Juanita Stein

»Mexican Gothic by Silvia Moreno-García

An isolated mansion. A chillingly charismatic aristocrat. And a brave socialite drawn to expose their treacherous secrets, set in glamorous 1950s Mexico. Noemí Taboada heads to High Place, a distant house in the Mexican countryside, to save her newlywed cousin from a mysterious doom. She’s a glamorous debutante, and her chic gowns and perfect red lipstick are more suited for cocktail parties than amateur sleuthing. But she’s also tough and smart, with an indomitable will, and she is not afraid...although, maybe she should be! The family’s once colossal wealth and faded mining empire kept them from prying eyes, but as Noemí digs deeper she unearths stories of violence and madness. And Noemí, mesmerized by the terrifying yet seductive world of High Place, may soon find it impossible to ever leave this enigmatic house behind. A New York Times bestseller. Paperback, 352 pages, 345 pesos.

»Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat:

Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking by Samin Nosrat, illustrated by Wendy MacNaughton Master the use of just four elements — salt, which enhances flavor; fat, which delivers flavor and generates texture; acid, which balances flavor; and heat, which ately determines the texture of food — and anything you cook will be delicious. With charming narrative, illustrated walkthroughs, and a lighthearted approach to kitchen science, award-winning chef Samin demystifies the four elements of good cooking. Refer to the canon of 100 essential recipes — and dozens of variations — to put the lessons into practice. Featuring 150 illustrations and infographics that reveal an atlas to the world of flavor, Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat will be your compass in the kitchen. It is destined to be a classic. A New York Times bestseller and winner of the 2018 James Beard Award for Best General Cookbook. Hardcover, 480 pages, 760 pesos.

Juanita Stein owns the Mérida bookstore Between the Lines, on the corner of Calle 62 and 53 in the Centro, where these titles are available. Visit facebook.com/BetweenTheLinesMerida