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Let ’s Celebrate! From the perfect wedding-day extravaganza to a benefit cocktail party, here’s our...
Ultimate Party Planning Guide
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ECO-FASHIONS FROM 3 SOCIALLY CONSCIOUS DESIGNERS
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THE ‘NEW’ MÉRIDA STREET EVERYBODY IS TALKING ABOUT!
YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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JAN-FEB 24
TIFFANY THOMPSON & TED HABIGER ON THEIR WEDDING DAY AT HACIENDA SUBIN OUTSIDE MÉRIDA 1
Instagram: @tersana.dermaceron | 999-924-6653 / 999-243-4311
Dra. Itzel Cerón has the latest technology to care for your skin Tersana is a premier clinic for advanced dermatological skin care, permanent cosmetic enhancement, fat and cellulite reduction, laser hair removal and a whole variety of beauty procedures with its state-of-the-art technology and highly trained and experienced professionals. Since it first opened, Tersana has maintained an unparalleled reputation for quality services. We achieve great results because we believe that patient satisfaction is vital to Tersana’s success.
T R E ATM EN TS IN C LU DE • SKIN CANCER CHECKUPS
• LASER HAIR REMOVAL
• BROWN SPOTS
• SKIN DISEASE TREATMENTS
• SKIN LAXITY
• PIGMENTATION TREATMENT
• SKIN REJUVENATION
• WRINKLE REDUCTION
• DARK SPOT REMOVAL
• SKIN REVITALIZATION
• STRETCH MARKS
• SKIN RESURFACING
• ACNE SCARS
• SUN DAMAGE
• SPIDER VEINS
• AGE SPOTS
Clínica Dermatológica Tersana | Dra. Itzel Cerón Calle 66, 548 between 65 & 67, Centro, Mérida 1
Instagram: @tersana.dermaceron | 999-924-6653 / 999-243-4311
Publisher & Editorial Director LEE STEELE lee@roofcatmedia.com Creative Director TREY SPEEGLE trey@treyspeegle.com
CONTENTS
Senior Editor CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT carlosrosado@roofcatmedia.com General Manager YESICA BENITEZ yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com Columnists YESICA BENITEZ JEFF SHAW LOUIS NAVARRETE Contributors JOSHUA ARFAXAD SCOTT COE ARTURO HERNANDEZ NESTOR HERRERA ANA ISABEL PEDRO LOLLETT PATRICIA ROBERT JOSÉ MANUEL RODRÍGUEZ PIM SCHALKWIJK NEIL YOUNGSON
ELENA BOLIO RODRÍGUEZ’S UNIQUE STYLES ON PAGE 58. PHOTO, PATRICIA ROBERT
Circulation & Distribution ALEJANDRO PINTO TOLOSA Roof Cat Media Co-Founder PABLO ARROYO DÍAZ Subscriptions subscriptions.yucatanmagazine.com Advertising & General Information hola@yucatanmagazine.com
4 Editor’s Note 7 SEEN: What’s On Our Radar 14 Ask a Yucateca: Yesica Benitez 16 Food & Drink: Calle 47 Guide 22
Fitness: Jeff Shaw
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Yucatán Magazine
AÑO 3, NÚMERO 12 Todos los derechos reservados por Roof Cat Media S de RL de CV, Calle 84, 278 x 59C y 59D Fraccionamiento Las Américas, Mérida, Yucatán, CP 97302. Prohibida la reproducción total o parcial del contenido sin autorización previa y por escrito de los editores. La revista asume que el material aquí presentado es original y no infringe derechos reservados de ley. Reserva de derechos de uso exclusivo del título. Yucatán Magazine no se hace responsable por el contenido de sus anunciantes. PRINTED IN YUCATÁN, MEXICO
C A S A Y U C ATÁ N 50 El Pueblo 52
Colonial Inspiration
54 Maiquez Studio in García Ginerés 56 Shopping for Pasta Tile 58
Market Pulse: Build or Renovate?
60 Studio Visit: Monica Rezman
ON THE COVER, TIFFANY THOMPSON & TED HABIGER ON THEIR WEDDING DAY. THIS PAGE, GUESTS TAKE A DIP BETWEEN THE WEDDING CEREMONY AND THE EVENING RECEPTION AT HACIENDA SUBIN. PHOTOS, JOSÉ MANUEL RODRIGUEZ
FEATURES C E L E B R AT I O N S ! 26 The Venue: Hacienda Subin 28 The Ritual: Tiffany & Ted wed 30 The Table: Laura Kirar sets up 32 The Food: Chef & groom Ted Habiger 34 The Dress: A Kika Rodríguez collab 36 The Entertainment: Award-winning sounds 38 Our Ultimate Party Planning Guide 42 Fashion Portfolio Featuring Kasia Kulenty, The Hand & Elena Martínez Bolio
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G E T YO U R C O PY MÉRIDA Anima Restaurant • Arte Helado Autogiro Ermita Cantina • Bangin Body Barrio Vivo • BC66 • Between The Lines Casa Azul de Rosa • Carl’s Diner Casa 22 • Casa Delfina • Casa Lecanda Casa T’ho • Casona Tres Marías Casona Nikté • Casa de las Palomas Cigno Hotel • Cinco + Uno Gallery Cumá Wellness Center Decu Hotel • Dentaz Diez Diez Collection • Doralba Inn Easy Legal Mexico • El Palacito Secreto El Remate • Galería 6453 Grupo Trato Hecho Bienes Raices Gypsea Market • Haus Design Center Health Itinerary • Hennessy’s Irish Pub Hotel Casa San Angel • Hotel Fray Diego Hotel Hacienda VIP Hotel Mansion Mérida Hotel Residence Inn • Hotel Victoria House MID • Intercam Kunuk Boutique Hotel • La Casona 61 La Sala Gallery • La Choco Little Lotus Yoga • Manifesto Barra Cold Brew • Manjar Blanco • Mérida English Library • Mexico International Módulo de Atención a Migrantes Nutcafe Plaza Orion Omar Fuentes y Vania Duran Tumakat Studio • PM23 / Mérida Living Prostasur • Rosas & Xocolate Rosa Mexicano • Slow Food Market Soco Centro • Soco Norte SoHo Gallery • Takto Design The Diplomat • Viva Mérida Boutique Hotel Villa Mercedes Wayam Hotel • Xaman Spa Ya’ax Boutique Hotel Yucatán Giving Outreach Yucatán Homes & Lots
VA L L A D O L I D El Zahuán Colonial • Hotel Waye Ancestra • Colonté Hotel Real Colonial • Sabor Colonial Hotel Rosalia • Mulik Spa • MUREM Conato • Casa de los Venados Módulo de Turismo • Choco Story Zentik Project • Hotel Real Haciendas Hotel Quinta Regia • Hotel Boutique Sayab • Villas Vallazoo Country Hotel & Suites Hotel Le Muuch • Casa Hipil La Aurora • Hotel Fundadores Hotel Colonial Zací • Real Hispano Vernaculo Store • Le Kaat Onza Rooftop Coffee • Tresvanbien Bonito Mercado • ConKafecito Verde Morada • Coqui Coqui Hotel Maison de Malleville Yerbabuena • Casa Quetzal Yogui Arte y Café Hotel Quinta Marciala • Vivero Collí
OR SUBSCRIBE! subscriptions.yucatanmagazine.com
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EDITOR’s Letter Let’s Get Together
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HIS ISSUE WAS made for people like me who want to up their party game. Why are we in Yucatán if not to enjoy the company of other like-minded people from around the world? Living here has brought me face-to-face with some of the most dynamic and talented people I’ve ever met. That wouldn’t have happened if we didn’t celebrate each other with cocktail gatherings, dinner parties, and meetups. Yucatán has already cemented its reputation for destination weddings, as well. Entertaining never came naturally to me. So in Yucatán, I leave it to the experts. I’m in the right place, and so are you. In the Celebrations section, we deconstruct Tiffany Thompson and Ted Habiger’s spectacular wedding day, from venue and ritual to table. And what to wear? We cover that too with the best by local fashion designers, particularly ones who use sustainable materials We also offer an event planning guide with 30 of our most trusted haciendas, mansions and catering spaces. It opens with a great shot of El Pinar, the pink Victorian mansion on Calle 60. (Our website, yucatanmagazine.com has more about El Pinar’s storied history.) We even threw our own party at one of the homes featured in the Design Issue. In SEEN, we give a glimpse of our launch party at Casa Versailles. Also in SEEN, see the latest on Tren Maya, which connects to Mérida’s new elec-
tric tram system, which connects to the new La Plancha park, which is next-door neighbors with the new “Gastronomic Corridor” on Calle 47. We cover it all in this issue.
H E R E ’S TO M O M On a separate note, I want to dedicate this issue to my mother, Doris Lake Steele, who was 93 when she passed away in early September. She spent the last four years living with me in the Centro, and maybe one day OMAR we’ll write more PADRON about the beneAND JILL BASKINS AT fits of eldercare THE DESIGN in Mérida. ISSUE PARTY Dementia INSIDE CASA had robbed VERSAILLES. Mom of the BELOW, DORIS ability to read LAKE STEELE articles, but WAS A FAN. whenever I handed her the latest issue of Yucatán Magazine, she would flip through it page by page, straining to absorb the content. “Very good,” she’d ultimately conclude. Mom had always nurtured my attraction to publishing. As a kid, I used stencils and my modest cartooning skills to a monthly humor magazine called Satire — a blatant ripoff of my beloved Mad magazine. I’d present each issue to my parents, seeking their approval. Decades later, I’d come full circle, back to showing Mom a hot-off-the-press copy of this magazine. My photo on this page confirmed that I was in charge. She was so proud. It was priceless. Thanks, Mom, for encouraging my creativity and, ultimately, for letting me enjoy you here in Centro in your final years.
Lee Steele Editorial Director
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D E D I C AT E D T O A L L T H E T R U E C A B R Ó N E S .
MADE BY MEXICAN ARTISANS
CALLE 19 #201D x 22 y 24 • COLONIA GARCÍA GINERÉS 97070 MÉRIDA, YUC 6
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SAUL MORAL AND TODD MOSLEY IN THEIR MARCELO CHIC ORIGINALS WITH MAKEUP BY GLITTER POSADAS MX. PHOTOGRAPH, EMMANUEL VILLAJUANA
Fête Accomplished MARCELO CHIC creates daring Day of the Dead looks for this dynamic duo
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HEN TODD MOSLEY and Saul Moral went to Mexico City for Day of the Dead festivities, their friend Emmanuel Villajuana had quite the photo shoot. “We spent an hour or so taking photos around Juarez and then hit Reforma for a full night of revelry,” says Todd. “It. Was. Amazing.” Hundreds of people stopped them for selfies, making it hard to proceed through the crowd. Styling was by Glitter Posadas. Earlier, in Mérida, Marcelo created the dramatic complementary Catrin and Catrina drag. “Marcelo and Mark (Callum) are a joy to work with,” Todd says. Mississippi native YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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Todd has been in Mérida for 10 years and works as a grant writer. Saul, a Mérida native, is in his final year of law school at UADY. Saul has a passion for modern dance and Todd, for fitness and “aging boldly.” “On Instagram, you can see me dressed as Triton and Santa (I’m a fit Santa, not a fat Santa),” Todd notes. “Saul has performed as gender fluid at a few events and has big dreams. Stay tuned for Saul during Mérida Pride 2024.” IG: @glitterposadas, @toddmosley1, @saul_moral19, @marcelo_chic 7
SEEN
CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT reports on the
progress of two huge developments
It’s Been a Journey
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PHOTOS: CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT
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IRST, THE OPENING of well over a decade in the making of Parque de La Plancha has proven, so far, to be a resounding success. Here one really must give credit to the authorities, but especially to the residents of the area who consistently lobbied for the abandoned industrial zone to be turned into a grand park instead of just a building lot for more condos. Around 3,000 trees were planted on more or less 50 acres of abandoned railroad yard. The park features several play areas for kids, tracks for running and cycling, an elevated esplanade, and even a large outdoor amphitheater with capacity for thousands. After some skepticism stemming from architectural renderings depicting lots of concrete, public reception has been overwhelmingly positive. The park is elegantly designed, and engaging for visitors wishing to unwind. The park is also home to Mérida’s Ie-Tram station, a type of tram/electric bus hybrid mode of transportation designed to zip through the city (as well as Kanasín and Umán) on dedicated lanes. The station is also a great place to catch the Ie-Tram to the Tren Maya station in Teya on the outskirts of town. The trip on these futuristic-looking electric vehicles takes between 20 and 30 minutes and sure beats taking a taxi.
La Plancha is elegantly designed, and engaging for visitors wishing to unwind.
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S FOR THE Tren Maya station itself, it is modern-looking, with ample overnight parking — though so far, several amenities like restaurants are yet to open to the public. The Tren Maya, or Maya Train, was a campaign promise of now-President López Obrador in 2018. His six-year term comes to an end later this year. While it’s true that this ambitious infrastructure project, linking all the states in southeast Mexico, is far from complete, it is already possible to travel back and forth from Mérida in the direction of Campeche on the Gulf Coast or the resort city of Cancún on the Caribbean Sea. Other routes, including down the Caribbean coast to Bacalar and further afield to Chiapas, are also in the works. When these will be up and running is anyone’s guess. Like anywhere in the world, these projects have a political dimension. There are detractors as well as ardent defenders, as well as real concerns about disturbing ecosystems and archaeology remains, secrecy of their budgets, and the extensive involvement of the armed forces in their construction. That said, there is no denying that the past few months have been huge for the city, the state, and the region as a whole. Even given all the ideological and political polarization, there seems to be a whiff of optimism in the air — and to that, we say cheers!
OPPOSITE, TREN MAYA ARRIVES IN TEYA, PASSENGERS ON ITS MAIDEN VOYAGE, THE ELECTRIC TRAM AT LA PLANCHA. ABOVE, A BIRD’S EYE VIEW OF LA PLANCHA
SEEN
UPPER LEFT, ARTIST ANGEL CHEN IN BEST’S HOME STUDIO. MIDDLE, LEANNA STAINS, CHEN & ELIZABETH LAMONT. BOTTOM, BEATRICE RUGAR, WENDY NAVARRO AND BRIAN MAHAN. PHOTOS, TREY SPEEGLE
2 Perfomances + a Posada
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OUIS NAVARRETE had a busy night in December. As a cast member of Mérida’s production of The Nutcracker Suite, the classically trained ballet dancer had two performances – at 5 and 8 p.m. – to perform in, besides hosting a holiday party at his Santiago home with partner, artist Ric Best (above left in red). The literally dashing designer and YM contributor appeared in costume, eye patch and all, after his last performance, unfrazzled and ready to continue entertaining yet another crowd. Bravo! —Trey Speegle
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Our Design Issue Fiesta For party guests, a closer look at Casa Versailles
PHOTOS: NESTOR HERRERA
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HE LAUNCH PARTY for the Yucatán Magazine Design Issue was at Casa Versailles, the grand home of Patricia Robert and Marcelo Troche. The casona was among the outstanding properties we featured in that edition, and the people who participated in that issue were our special guests. “You’re standing somewhere between pages 44 and 51,” said Lee Steele, publisher and editorial director of the magazine, when he thanked the 50 or so people before raffling off two charming turkey-Santa piñatas also featured in the Design Issue. A pop-up store was part of the mix, where the sale of embroidered pillows, made by men living in a shelter. Proceeds help them pay for their everyday expenses. Eduardo Vázquez of Flamante Burgers delivered beef and vegan sliders and their famous Sticky Fingers (we should have ordered more). Diego Augusto de Regio of Más Allá Spirits & Else served his own creative Katún gin cocktails and hosted a tasting bar by Thodes Brewery. The party was centered around home design but also launched our magazine’s redesign by Trey Speegle, a conceptual pop artist with vast magazine experience in the US. Trey couldn’t attend, but was there both in spirit and by FaceTime. —Lee Steele
CASA VERSAILLES’ KITCHEN BECAME A COCKTAIL BAR WHILE NEXT DOOR, BELOW, A POP-UP STORE SOLD DISTINCTIVE HAND-EMBROIDERED PILLOWS, RAISING ABOUT 10,000 PESOS FOR A MEN’S SHELTER. TURKEY-SANTA PIÑATAS WERE RAFFLED OFF.
PHOTOGRAPHER PATRICIA ROBERT COHOSTED THE DESIGN ISSUE LAUNCH PARTY. YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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SEEN
Caftan-tastic! MARJORIE SKOURAS’ vintage Mexican caftans & dresses are being sold to benefit a rural music school for kids
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ROM HER TALLER (workshop) in Guadalajara, Mexican fashion designer Josefa Ibarra created this cross-dyed caftan around 1970. Crafted from manta de cielo, and modeled here by Ana Isabel Carmona, the garment is hand embroidered and embellished with cotton ribbons. It is among the pieces from the Marjorie Skouras Collection of mid-century Mexican textiles which will be offered for sale at a pop-up shop at Casa T´ho, Paseo de Montejo and Calle 45, from Jan. 11 to 15. Skouras’ sales benefit her passion project, Kookix, a free music school for children at her quinta in rural Dzemul. —Lee Steele
PHOTOGRAPH BY PIM SCHALKWIJK 12
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Drink in the Art When the booze matches the painting
OTÓN RIVERA SAMANIEGO, WHOSE GALVANIZED WIRE AND ENAMEL FIGURE REPRESENTS THE GODDESS OF GROWTH, IS AMONG THE ARTISTS IN THE EXHIBITION.
The African Influence
D “EL MEZCAL DE FRIDA” AND “KAHLO” EACH SELL FOR 27,000 PESOS WHEN BUNDLED WITH A BOTTLE OF AMIGO IMAGINARIO MEZCAL AT SOHO GALLERIES, CALLE 60 400A AT 43 IN SANTA ANA. TOTE BAGS WITH THE SAME ARTWORK ARE ALSO AVAILABLE IN THE GIFT SHOP UPSTAIRS. YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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ESPITE THEIR DIFFERENT backgrounds and viewpoints, generations of artists converge artistically at “Afro: Cuban, American, and Mexican: The Pride of African Heritage.” Curator Ana Joa and SoHo Gallery owner Adele Aguirre, with sponsorship from Yucatán’s cultural agency Sedeculta, have assembled some major talents to express a range of styles and influences to explore Africa’s rich influence on Yucatán culture and the world. Among them, Eduardo “Choco” Roca Salazar is one of the most celebrated Cuban artists of our time. When Fidel Castro declared 1961 the “Year of Education,” Choco was a member of the first generation of artists educated in the newly nationalized school system. Today, his art reflected a new vision of revolution and race on the island. The exhibition opens with a ribbon-cutting at 6:30 p.m. Friday, Jan. 19, at the Peón Contreras gallery, Calle 60, between 57 and 59, Mérida. The main exhibition continues immediately after, at 8 p.m., at SoHo Galleries, Calle 60, between 41 and 43. The exhibition runs through March 15. —Lee Steele
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PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE COMPANIE
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ELF-TAUGHT MÉRIDA painter Layda Rodríguez has whimsically paired mezcal bottles with her Frida Kahlo portraits. You can safely call it an exercise in mixed media: the larger piece of art is on canvas, and the other — an exact copy — appears slightly distorted behind glass and the liquor. Both limited-edition portraits are as intoxicating as the contents of the bottle, which are top-rated artisanal mezcals from Oaxaca. Think of it as a gift with purchase. Buy a portrait, get a matching bottle. Or the other way around. Either way, you’re taking home a memorable and cheeky take on the iconic face of the late Mexico City artist.
ASK A YUCATECA Q: What is the cheapest
A:
way to get around Mérida?
When asked about this by my foreign friends, I usually have some advice I would like to share. Taking a taxi or using a ride-sharing application from time to time is a great way to get to that cocktail party or go grocery shopping when driving is not an alternative, but it gets expensive quickly. While public transit in the city is not exactly up to Berlín or Toronto standards, it has improved over the past few years. This is especially true of the Va y Ven bus network, which now includes the Ie-Tram. Both are a great way to get around in comfort for just 12 pesos, or roughly 70 cents US. The Va y Ven network only accepts payment via a dedicated card. Still, the good news is that they can be purchased at dedicated kiosks all over the city and at convenience stores like Oxxo, Dunosusa, and Willy’s. One of the best things about the Va y Ven is its free app, which, though only in Spanish, is very intuitive and displays
nearby stops, routes, and the location of different buses in real-time. So why not get that card and check it out for yourself? It is quite a good service, and its air conditioner does not hurt either. If you want to make your way out further afield, say to Progreso, AutoProgreso buses are quite a good bet. When I was a young girl, my family and I used this service a lot, so I have many fond memories of this particular voyage. These buses leave from their terminal on Centro’s Calle 62 and 66 but makes several pickup stops along the way. The trip from Centro to Progreso takes roughly one hour and costs 23 pesos each way, or under US$1.50. Several options are available to get to other cities and towns on the Peninsula, including buses leaving from ADO terminals downtown, Paseo 60, and just behind Altabrisa. At the time, The Tren Maya has also begun offering trips to Campeche and Cancún but will soon start offering stops at
cities including Izamal, Valladolid, and Piste (Chichén Itzá). Even greater connectivity around the entirety of the Yucatán Peninsula and even into Tabasco and Chiapas has also been officially announced by the end of 2024 — but whether or not they will be fully operational by then is still an open question. If you choose to drive, be patient. We Yucatecos have our ways. Not that many years ago, people would still stop their engine in the middle of the street when spotting a friend to engage in a friendly chat. This is to say that while driving here can seem a bit crazy, just keep calm and avoid honking except when necessary. Also, remember that drinking and driving are not tolerated here, and if you are caught, you will spend the night in the drunk tank, and nobody wants that. Have a question or quandary? Contact Yesica Benitez at yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com
“THE PRIDE OF AFRICAN HERITAGE”
OPENING EXHIBITION JANUARY 19, UNTIL MARCH 17, 2024 CALLE 60 #400-A ENTRE 43 Y 41 CENTRO
PHONE: +52 999 344 7463 MONDAY - FRIDAY: 10 AM – 5 PM SATURDAY: 10 AM – 2 PM
WWW.SOHOGALLERIESMX.COM 14
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JUST ASKING What’s your secret hack to throwing a great party in the Yucatán? “Most important is an interesting mix of diverse guests. I try to avoid demographic homogeneity.” –SEAN STRUB
“I personally hate a line at the bar. So, I hire one good bartender, have lots of ice and only easy-to-make drinks, like red and white wine, all basic alcohol from vodka, whiskey and gin to tequila, mescal and cerveza. Mixers are minimal, fruit is pre-cut and we say save any and all muddling for the hipster bars! Once the opening rush is over, the bartender will have enough time to wander the party, clean up a bit and offer refills. So my hot tip is: keep the bar simple. –P. DAVID EBERSOLE
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“Put the bar anywhere but the kitchen as people tend to congregate there already and you’ll get a fiesta bottleneck. The bar, or a secondary one, in an area you want people to be in, guarantees they will be.” –TREY SPEEGLE “A renowned caterer and a variety of wine and cocktails. And good AC, sweaty guests don’t linger.” –JOHN BRADSHAW “I haven’t given a party in a while but I’d say a theme of some sort makes it more fun.”
“We used to always have our staff party the third week in January when everyone was thrilled to have an excuse to get dressed up!” –VICTORIA SHARP
–AERIN PEREIRA
“Make it a priority to be in a positive frame of mind before the first guest arrives. Nothing kills a party more than a stressedout host who’s apologizing for every little thing, or who is silently wishing their guest would just leave already. Be sure to ask your guests how and what they are doing and avoid talking only about yourself.” –LEE STEELE
“If you want people to be there by 8, tell them the party starts at 6.”
“Mix it up. Mix up guests (from different groups) mix up different cocktails and have a good mix of music to suit all guests — oh, and also get help!! –ANDREA DKYSTRA
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FOOD ON 47
A Guide to the Street Everybody is Talking About
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A long time coming, it’s finally finished. A key (and map) to the recently unveiled ‘Gastronomic Corridor’ in Centro
UST A FEW years ago, Calle 47 east of the Paseo Montejo was a pretty forgettable stretch. There were restaurants — some of Mérida’s best — but few really saw the street itself as something that stood out. Now, just look. The city’s massive overhaul of Calle 47 has been dramatic. Traffic is one lane to fit café seating areas on the widened sidewalks. Underfoot, attractive brick and paving stones have replaced asphalt and concrete. Power lines have been buried underground and where poles used to be, flower beds and trees line the road. At Christmas time, 47 from Montejo to La Plancha was given the full Paseo de Montejo treatment, with animated festive lights in motion overhead. Of course, the real story of the Gastronomic Corridor is what’s inside the restaurants that today line these five now-celebrated blocks. Some of Mérida’s best restaurants are concentrated right here. Cuisines from all over the world are represented many with a Yucatecan twist. Chefs from Mexico are joined by colleagues everywhere from Rome to Kansas City. This directory is but an amuse-bouche of what restaurants on and off 47 offer. Dig in.
CASA REMATE
The main floor of the El Remate complex was conceived through the lens of the traditional European brasserie while reflecting the Peninsula’s culinary heritage. Start the 16
day with Motuleños en Cazuela with Longaniza sausage from Valladolid and return for pork belly en chilimole, slow-cooked for eight hours and served with a demi glacé of its own juices. See also: El Gato and La Terraza on the roof deck. Calle 47 486 x 56A, elrematedemontejo.mx, 999-900-4818
LA TERRAZA
From under the stars on Casa Remate’s roof terrace, take in a sweeping view of the Paseo de Montejo while the sun sets in the west and fresh breezes travel from the north. The menu is diverse but leans heavily toward seafood, including an extensive raw bar. A festive cocktail bar runs along one side of the terrace, staffed with expert mixologists. Calle 47 486 x 56A, elrematedemontejo.mx, 999-900-4818
EL GATO
A high-class, low-key hideaway with a Raymond Chandler vibe atop the Remate restaurant, and behind the rooftop bar. Cocktails lean toward mezcal and tequila, and a bar menu ranges from Escabeches Mixtos to black oysters. Calle 56 486A, IG: @elgato.mx, 999-900-4818
PIZZA NEO
A wood-fired oven yields a variety of pizzas inspired by the busy kitchens of New York City, but using local ingredients. Castacán and arugula pizza, a white pie based on the flavors of a BLT, is a crowd-pleaser. Outside, they sell by the slice, bringing shades of
Coney Island and the Jersey Shore to the Remate. Appetizers, entrees and cocktails are also on the menu. Calle 56 486A x 49 y 47, IG: @pizzaneo.mx, 999-445-4155
TRÓPICO 56
Live music and colorful murals set up a beach bar vibe at this fun-loving restaurant. Come on Thursdays for karaoke. The menu is known best for seafood dishes such as pulpo, fish tacos, and ceviche. Recommended drinks include the Frozen Mezcalita Bloody Caesar and the Avocado Margarita. Calle 56A 425A x 49 y 47 IG: @tropico56mid 999-757-1453
BARETTO
This small café is known for its variety of croissants and other pastries and plates, such as crostini, avocado toast with poached egg, and panini with savory roast beef or a four-cheese mixture. But they’re perhaps best known for espresso, cafe latte and flat white coffees. Calle 47 478 x 54 y 56, barettomid.com.mx, 999-912-6254
MARMALADE 47
A friendly café noted for its broad menu, including its cinnamon rolls with sweet toppings, along with healthy alternatives, like the California Bowl. For lunch, the turkey club is piled amazingly high and the burgers are served with homemade buns. Calle 47 x 56 y 54, marmalade.mx, 999303-6744 (continues after map) JAN-FEB 24
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HE ART WARMING I TAL IAN INSPIRED C UISINE AT T HE NE W G A ST RONOMIC C ORRIDOR 47th St. and 54th St. Centro, Mérida, Yucatán Reservations at 999 923 3081 www.olivamerida.com
VERA PIZZA AL FORNO
54th St. No. 433 X 47th & 49th Centro, Mérida, Yucatán. Reservations at 999 928 4332 @pizzeriaolivamid
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Cafeteria Impala
El Lucero La Taberna 23 24
CALLE
56
54
45
Cultural Center Punto MID
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Latte Quattro Sette 21
7 8 Yakuza 47th Street Piano Bar One Balance Marmalade 9 4 Te Extraño, Pizzeria 10 Extraño Oliva
CALLE
130 Grados Catrín 20
5 6 Baretto
3 Trópico 56
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El Remate Pizza Neo Trópico 56 Te Exraño, Extraño Baretto Marmalade Carajillo 26 47th Street Piano Bar Yakuza One Balance Healthy food Pizzería Oliva Oliva Enoteca Hōmu Japanese Cuisine El Remate 1 Rosa Mexicano Micaela Mar y Leña Sandunga Pizza Neo 2 La Libertad Centro Gin 47 Anima Catrín 130 Grados Steakhouse Latte Quattro Sette Cultural Center Punto MID El Lucero La Taberna Cafeteria Impala Carajillo
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FOOD ON 47 47th STREET PIANO BAR
Cozy speakeasy atmosphere where fancy cocktails and live piano music blend. The bar is an offshoot of the Yakuza Japanese restaurant next door, and a daring attempt to introduce the concept where others have failed. Seating is extremely limited. Calle 47 478 x 54 y 56, IG: @47streetmx, 999-343-0522
YAKUZA
Elegant sushi bar that takes its craft seriously. Huge selection of hand rolls, nigiri, sashimi, and makis, plus side items such as crispy salmon tacos and beef carpaccio. For the true aficionado, splurge on the shavings of Wagyu A5 or the rib eye tataki with Brussels sprouts, truffle aioli and ponzu. Calle 47 478 x 54 y 56, IG: @yakuzamx, 999-700-1097
ONE BALANCE HEALTHY FOOD
Omelets, bowls, waffles and thick banana hotcakes are all exceptional at this plain, but earnest eatery. The emphasis is on less fat and more nutrition, but they don’t skimp on flavor. The chicken Caesar salad for lunch is a mainstay, when we can get
it. Calle 54 431 x 47 y 49, IG: @onebalance. healthyfood, 999-193-5346
PIZZERIA OLIVA
This new pizzeria, just a stone’s throw from Oliva Enoteca, imports its “00” flour from Italy, and the pizza dough is fermented in-house for 48 hours for a nuanced flavor and texture. Choose from 11 pies, from pepperoni to the Picante, with tomato, mozzarella, and soppressata, drizzled with honey and chile calabrese. The wine list is curated with reasonably priced bottles. Calle 54 433 x 47 y 49, IG: @pizzeriaolivamid, 999-928-4332
OLIVA ENOTECA
The first of the Gastronomic Corridor’s high-end restaurants started slow, a couple of blocks away, with a tiny pasta place that had lines out the door. Chefowner Stefano Marcelletti was raised in Rome and that’s where his influence lies. Even the simplest pasta dishes are a revelation, but don’t overlook the fried calamari and the osso bucco. Calle 47 x 54, olivamerida.com, 999-923-3081
HŌMU
Contemporary Japanese restaurant with “a Mexican fusion” and an elaborate presentation of everything from sushi to its miso soups with birria, chilmole, and tonkotsu ramen. To the rear is a series of wooden doors. One of them leads to a “secret” bar, Ignoto (@ignotomx), on Fridays (house sessions) and Saturdays (pop and reggaeton). Don’t tell anyone. Calle 47 464B x 52 y 54, IG: @homu.mid, 999-416-1657
ROSA MEXICANO
Look for the VW bug out front for a chill place to hang out with friends, especially if you can get a seat on (so far) the only roof deck on the block. The menu is traditional Mexicano — tacos bistec, pollo, chuleta, longaniza, or campechano with papas fritas, nopales and cebollitas — and the service is friendly. Calle 47 464 x 52 y 54, IG: @rosamexicano.yuc, 999-558-6053
MICAELA MAR Y LEÑA
Diners may forget how extremely rare a raw bar was before Micaela. The place was an immediate hit for its seafood and meats cooked with the smoke of a wood-
The First Italian/American Restaurant in Town
CALLE 33 498, REPARTO DOLORES PATRÓN 97070 MÉRIDA, YUC. IG: @slowfoodyucatan
Calle 59 529 entre 64 y 66 Mérida Centro Histórico WhatsApp 9993265313 / @lasiciliamerida 20
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OLIVA WAS A PIONEER OF THE GASTRONOMIC CORRIDOR’S HIGH-END RESTAURANTS
fired oven. Pulpo (octopus, if you dare) is a particular specialty here. Don’t miss the small cocktail bar to the right as you come in. Very festive if you can find a stool. Calle 47 458 x 52 y 54, IG: @micaelamarylena, 999-518-1702
SANDUNGA
Walk a bit from the fray toward La Plancha to find this gem from Chef/Owner Araceli Perez Quiroz, who learned to cook from her mother in Oaxaca. After culinary school and stints in Nectar and Oliva, her restaurant is revered for its homemade mole enchiladas and tlayuda de arrachera. What helps is her family ships authentic ingredients from her hometown every week. Calle 47 #453 A 50 y 52, IG: @sandunga.mid, 999-561-8631
LA LIBERTAD
Another transplant from the north of the city, La Libertad is hugely popular for brunch and lunch, with a wide selection of crepes, waffles, hotcakes, omelets and everything else you’d expect. A popular place to take the parents, aunts and uncles on a Sunday morning. Calle 47 459 x 52 y 54, IG: @lalibertad.db, 999-223-1541
GIN 47
Thriving in the land of mezcal and beer, this is Mérida’s first bar specializing in gin. Gin 47 Mixology & Kitchen opened in 2017 north of the Centro, but since early December has been pouring more than 60 gin brands on the Corredor Gastronómico. Of course, they have a full bar with all the standards, plus a comprehensive menu including salads, tacos, and charcuterie. Calle 47 459 x 52 y 54, IG: @gin47mx, 999241-5334
ANIMA
Open-flame, farm-to-table barbecue from YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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Kansas City’s Ted Habiger, who serves as executive chef. Super hip and casual, diners walk past the impressive outdoor hearth where house-smoked lamb, beef, and chicken are coaxed into robust, juicy bites. One big side dish surprise is the beets with avocado jocoque, pine nuts, dill and organic tomatoes. Calle 47 461 x 52 y 54, animaelviento.com, 999-960-3666
CATRÍN
EL LUCERO
A classic Yucatecan restaurant with live music or a deejay, popular with families celebrating birthdays or anniversaries. Free appetizers fill the table soon after diners order their first bottles of Sol or Pacifico. Queso relleno and ceviche on a blue-corn tostada were particularly memorable on a recent visit. Calle 47 493 x 56, IG: @elluceromx, 999-924-8099
TABERNA MONTEJO
This colorful, often boisterous cantinathemed restaurant rightly holds the claim to reinventing Mexican cuisine. Passion fruit ceviche, risotto, and braised pork were particularly popular with reviewers, who described the taco selection as innovative. Cocktail selections are equally creative and have been a hit with customers. Don’t miss the murals out back. Calle 47 463B x 52 y 54, catrin47.com, 999-518-1725
Cozy dive bar with a game room (complete with Foosball and pool tables) reminiscent of the type of hangout we see in every college town north of the border — but with probably a better craft be er selection. Known for being friendly and unpretentious. Snacks get high marks, as well. Calle 47 495 x 56 y 56A, IG: @tabernamontejo, 999-223-6396
130 GRADOS STEAKHOUSE
CAFETERIA IMPALA
High-end steaks and sides are served in an intimate, upscale, yet casual, atmosphere. A new private dining room faces Calle 54. Cafe seating on the sidewalk. Plenty of non-beef choices. For dessert, a modern version of flaming Baked Alaska starts with chocolate bread and walnut ice cream. Calle 47 465 x 52 y 54, IG: @130grados. merida, 999-429-5398
LATTE QUATTRO SETTE
Literally, Milk 47, this Italian-inspired café is just what you’d expect from the owners of the Oliva restaurant group, and Casa Lecanda, the boutique hotel next door. A chic, relaxing atmosphere with a large selection of Illy coffees and various teas, plus a wide array of baked goods. Fruit-and yogurt bowls and avocado toast round out the selection. Calle 47 475 x 54 y 56, @lattequattrosette, 999-924-8895
At the base of the corridor is a standby that’s stood by since 1958. Cafeteria Impala packs them in for its diner-type food served under the glow of their iconic neon sign. One attraction is the view of cars circling around the Montejo monument that separates the Remate de Paseo de Montejo from the grand boulevard. Calle 56A 500 x 47 y 45, IG: @cafeteriaimpala, 999-923-8196
CARAJILLO
On the glorieta in front of the Montejo statue is a fast-growing national chain restaurant known for its “Instagrammable Burger,” presented tableside with a lavaflow of melted cheese. Run by celebrity chef Juan Arroyo, Carajillo values innovation along with showmanship. Calle 56A 497 x 45 y 47, IG: @carajillomerida, 999-429-4731 21
FITNESS BENCH SQUATS Keep your spine neutral and head and chest raised. Engage your core as you bend knees and lower your hips down and back. You can lift your arms out in front for extra balance while you lower yourself down. Gently tap the chair with your butt, but don’t sit down. Return to standing position. Do 10-15 reps
Recognize the potential fall risks and wholeheartedly embrace strength training to unlock a path that transforms later years into the most fulfilling ones. It’s an opportunity to navigate the aging journey gracefully, fortify your autonomy, and compose a life filled with happiness and lively adventures. Fitness trainer Jeff Shaw is a US native who has lived in Mérida for over 10 years. He runs Longevity 360, helping clients over 40 maintain strength and agility. Online: longevity360.life
PHOTOS: TREY SPEEGLE
A WellBalanced Life Trainer JEFF SHAW on the benefits of investing in
personal fitness and the dividends it keeps paying
I
N OUR VIBRANT community, where people cherish their freedom, preventing accidental slips and falls is a top priority — especially on these sidewalks, am I right? Statistics reveal that one in three individuals over 65 takes a tumble each year, and a hip fracture due to such incidents can be life-changing. Shockingly, one in four individuals over 65 with a hip fracture doesn’t live past one year after the accident, emphasizing the urgency to take action for a long and happy life. We often hear that the best time to start investing money was 10 years ago, and the second best time is now. The same wisdom applies to our fitness journey. To achieve this, it’s crucial to safeguard our future, both financially and physically. After all, as the saying goes, “he who dies with the most gold still dies.” So, how do we plan for the future? By identifying common risks and crafting a plan to mitigate them. Accidental falls have claimed the unfortunate title of the most common
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cause of death in people over 65. Yet, there’s hope. Recent research spotlights a simple yet effective solution – a resistance training program, just two to four days a week, significantly reducing aging-related risks. This type of program can improve muscle strength, power, balance and coordination. But the key is not to wait until you’re 65 to start. Like financial investments, the best time was decades ago, but the second best time to start is now. Regardless of age, if your goal is a long, healthy life with independence, safeguarding it lies in maintaining strong muscles. Many of us have chosen Yucatán to pursue a better life, not just in terms of a longer life, but also a healthier one. Our goal is to embrace a fulfilling life, full of adventure and saying yes to new experiences.
ALTERNATING DUMBBELL SHOULDER PRESS Start with feet shoulder-width apart, holding two dumbbells at shoulder height. Press one weight up above your head until your arm is fully extended. Return slowly to the start position. Switch arms.
STRAIGHT ARM PLANK Starting on the floor, position hands under the shoulders and knees/feet hip to shoulder width apart. Lift the body off of the floor and form a straight line from head to heel flexing the glutes. Hold :30-:60 or as long as you can. JAN-FEB 24
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APPOINTMENTS 999-926-8777 WhatsApp: 999-645-3945 drgilbertomedia.com IG: @dr.gilmedina
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Celebrations!
GUESTS MINGLE ON THE LOGGIA OF HACIENDA SUBIN P 44
This issue celebrates celebrations. And what’s a bigger celebration than a wedding — the mother of all parties. More time and money is spent by both the givers and the attendees than any other human get together. So we are using the Thompson/Habiger nuptials at Hacienda Subin as the ultimate party — it’s not an exaggeration. Have a look. We’ve also provided some pro tips, plus a guide to some of the Yucatan’s most amazing venues for planning your own fiestas, as well as a portfolio of chic styles by local designers to peacock around at all the parties. So to coin a phrase, “Celebrate good times — come on!” Y YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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Celebrations!
The Venue Celebrating love, art & culture at the destination wedding of TIFFANY THOMPSON & TED HABIGER uniting the local & international creative communities at HACIENDA SUBIN, by TREY SPEEGLE
H
ACIENDA SUBIN IS the home of interior designer and artist, Laura Kirar and her husband and business partner, Richard Frazier. The 40-acre property, fewer than 25 kilometers from Mérida, is a former rancho and henequen plantation, includes a 17th-century casa principal fronted by 11 Moorish arches, a magnificent Porfiriato-style machine house, large swimming pool with elegant two-bedroom pool house and several guest rooms o the property. The fusion of art, design, and architecture perfectly resonated with the bride and groom’s personalities: unconventioal with some drama and loads of unpretentious style. For more information, see our Event Venues Guide and visit @haciendasubin on Instagram.
PRO TIP
• If you’re doing an event in a hacienda that’s very romantic, host an event in the city at someplace hip and cool. People are flying in to celebrate your love (using their precious vacation time) so give them a taste of what Mérida has to offer. – Lauren Toker, Nicoella Events
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The 40-acre property, less than 25 kilometers from Mérida, is a 17th-century former henequen plantation.
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Celebrations!
“Our bond is about granting each other the freedom to grow, to change, to soar...” –FROM TED HABIGER ’S VOWS 28
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The Ritual
T
IFFANY AND TED’S vows were a collaboration with friends Laura Kirar and Richard Frazier, who officiated a program that steered away from traditional conventions. On a sunny Sunday at noon, a small group of close friends and family gathered to celebrate love in a open-air chapel on the grounds of Hacienda Subin. Harpist and vocalist Calvin Arsenia from Kansas City performed Radio Head’s “Weird Fishes” as the bride walked down the aisle. Affection and sentiment flowed freely. The ceremony was followed by lunch — and in the mode of unconventionality at a wedding — an afternoon swim (see Contents, Page 3.)
PRO TIPS
TIFFANY AND TED WERE MARRIED BY CLOSE FRIENDS RICHARD FRAZIER AND LAURA KIRAR IN THE OPEN AIR CHAPEL AT HACIENDA SUBIN IN SEPTEMBER 2023. BELOW, THE COUPLE’S MULTIPLE INVITATIONS FOR THE PRE-PARTY, CEREMONY, AND THE RECEPTION ALONG WITH THEIR VERY PERSONAL RING SET.
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• Throw in a surprise in your vows for your partner: “I hired a musician to write and record a song for Ted.” — Tiffany Thompson • The more personal a ceremony is, the better. A little levity is always welcome but don’t avoid the profound nature of the union. — Laura Kirar, designer • We passed our rings to each guest to hold and infuse their best wishes, energy, and love. Every hand made these rings unique tokens of the shared energy. — Tiffany & Ted
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Celebrations!
The Table
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HEN YOU’RE PLANNING a wedding, it helps if one of your closest friends is an internationally renowned designer who lives on a 40-acre hacienda. Designer Laura Kirar began traveling to Mexico to learn about traditional materials and techniques and has now collaborated with celebrated Mexican artisans in what she calls “the marriage of modern design with traditional technique.” So her knowledge of mixing styles seamlessly merged modern aesthetics with the timelessness of the Hacienda’s history. The reception lunch table, designed by Kirar, was laid out on the grand portico with fine crystal and vintage silverware juxtaposed with rustic clay pots, artisan-made henequen placemats and fine china. Exotic orchids and seed pods from the jungle mixed with Kirar’s paper mâché napkin rings shaped like noses, lips, hearts, eyes, ears, and hands. The quirky sophistication paired perfectly with the vibe of the day celebrating the bride and groom’s individual creativity and resonating with the artistic crowd gathered to feast in the warmth of friends, family and the always warm Yucatán.
TOP, LUNCH FOR 34 SET ON THE LOGGIA OF THE HACIENDA SURROUNDED BY THE YUCATÁN’S NATURAL BEAUTY. RIGHT, KIRAR ADJUSTS HER QUIRKY SURREALIST NAPKIN RINGS. BELOW, A TINY POTTED CACTUS WITH GLASSWARE.
PRO TI PS
• An over-decorated and formal table is not an inviting one. • Make sure the guests can see one another through the décor. • Unusual arrangements and flowers are great, but try for ones that are more sculptural than sweet. • Don’t hesitate to mix the high with the low and the dramatic against something simple. • What people will remember most is the vibe and conversation. Create a table that encourages connection and “feels” like the celebration. —Laura Kirar
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“The use of local flora and craft is always a great idea at a destination wedding, to give context.” –L AUR A KIR AR , DESIGNER YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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Celebrations!
Desserts
• LEMON TART WITH WHIPPED CREAM • “NARANJA” ORANGE PASTRIES • “LOVE” HEART PASTRIES • MACAROONS (AMARETTO, LICHI FRAMBUESA, MANGO PASSION, PISTACHIO)
The desserts by the renowned Antonio Bachour (named World’s Best Pastry Chef by the Best Chef Awards) were displayed in a tablescape by Laura Kirar 32
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The Food
T ALSO HELPS streamline the catering process if the groom is a James Beard nominated chef. The lunch and dinner menus were created by Kansas City chef and local Anima partner, chef & groom (no pressure) Ted Habiger and prepared by Chef Shedar Cárdenas from Xamach.
PRO TIPS
• We opted for a light & flavorful cuisine to complement the hot weather. The chilled corn soup with salsa macha was a big hit. • Plan for food to be cooked on-site for the best quality. Arranging for a grill is often my choice because of its versatility in grilling, sautéing, and roasting.” – Ted Habiger
Lunch
• CHILLED CORN SOUP • GREENS SALAD WITH GOAT CHEESE, CITRUS VINAIGRETTE, PISTACHIO, CARAMELIZED ONION, SQUASH, TOMATO TIAN • GRILLED MOROCCAN SPICED CHICKEN SKEWERS WITH GREEN GODDESS AIOLI
ABOVE, TED HABIGER AND CHEF SHEDAR CÁRDENAS, WHO PREPARED THE MEAL THAT INCLUDED THE CHILLED CORN SOUP, LEFT. BELOW &. BOTTOM, THE EVENING MENU CHANGED AFTER LA REINA DE LA TIERRA, A LOCAL ORGANIC FARM, GIFTED A PIG AND LAMB TO THE BRIDE AND GROOM. ÁNIMA GRILLED THE MEAT OVER AN OPEN FIRE FOR AN MEAT-EATERS’ TACO BAR.
Dinner
PASSED APPETIZERS • SHRIMP ZARANDEADO TOSTADA • OCTOPUS AUGACHILI WITH CUCUMBER, HEIRLOOM TOMATO & XPELON PEPPERS • RESCOLDO BEETS WITH AVOCADO YOGURT SAUCE, PINE NUTS, DILL OIL • GRILLED BROCCOLI WITH ASH AIOLI, MACADAMIA, DRIED CHILI & PEANUTS • GRILLED SNAPPER WITH PINEAPPLE PUREE, CRISPY TRUFFLED POTATOES, ASPARAGUS, GREEN BEANS LATE-NIGHT TACO BAR • BARBACOA, PORK TACOS
Cocktails
• SPECIALTY DRINKS BY KATÚN GIN
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Celebrations! Celebrations!
The Dress
T
HE KIKA RODRÍGUEZ Atelier went on a collaborative journey with Tiffany to create a wedding dress that became a true masterpiece of local craftsmanship. It skillfully showcases Yucatáninspired embroidery, intricately intertwining motifs of cacti and florals with an homage to the region’s heritage. The result was instantly iconic. A sartorial testament to a celebration that seamlessly blends artistic tradition with a contemporary vision. In other words, it’s GORGEOUS. You can follow Kika on Instagram @kikarodriguezatelier
PRO TIP
• For a one-of-a-kind dress, consider engaging a local dressmaker. My decision to collaborate with Kika Rodríguez stemmed from my confidence in her ability to transform her embroidery and sewing techniques into a couture piece. —Tiffany Thompson
TOP, TIFFANY MEESHA THOMPSON GETTING HER BRIDE ON (WITH AN ASSIST) AT HACIENDA SUBIN. LEFT, A PRELIMINARY SKETCH. ABOVE, THE DESIGNER WITH THE BRIDE.
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“Each interaction with Kika felt extraordinary... The memories will be cherished for a lifetime.” –TIFFANY THOMPSON YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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Celebrations!
LEFT, THE BRIDE AND GROOM WITH HACIENDA SUBIN OWNERS LAURA KIRAR AND RICHARED FRAZIER WHO MC’D THE EVENING’S SHOW. BESIDES THE OUTSTANDING LIVE PERFORMANCES, CHARLIE McGIRR, OWNER OF JAZZ MUSIC VENUES DZALBAY AND BIRD, ADDED HIS DJ VIBES TO KEEP FESTIVITIES GROOVIN’ INTO THE NIGHT.
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The Entertainment A
MU SICIANS • Verónica Valerio @veronicavalerioarpayvoz • Singer/harpist Ice Breaker/Reception (Mérida) Calvin Arsenia @calvinarsenia sang and played Harp at wedding and reception (USA) • Latin Grammy Winner Mireya Ramos sang and played violin (Puerto Rico) @yeyasmiles • Beau Bledsoe, Maestro Guitarist (USA) @beaubledsoe • Ezgi Karakus (Turkish, US based) @cellist_zg Cellist • Charlie McGirr, DJ from Mérida @charliemcgirr
PHOTO: P DAVID EBERSOLE
T A CERTAIN POINT in the evening some kind of entertainment is warranted with any wedding extravaganza, but this fiesta had world-class live musical artists. The reception concert showcased musicians who had once been in residence at the bride and groom’s Casa Ocea’s Yucatán Artist Residency (see the Casa issue of Yucatán Magazine) including Latin Grammy-winner Mireya Ramos from Puerto Rico, acclaimed world music guitarist Beau Bledsoe from Kansas City, and cellist Ezgi Karakus from Turkey. Verónica Valerio, a Mérida harpist and vocalist, played at the Friday-night Ice Breaker at Casa Ocea and joined the other musicians during the reception concert at Subin. Charlie McGirr, owner of jazz music venues Dzalbay and Bird, added his unique DJ vibes to the festivities.
LEFT & ABOVE, VERÓNICA VALERIO AND CALVIN ARSENIA BOTH SANG AND PLAYED HARP FIRST AT THE FRIDAY-NIGHT ICE BREAKER AT CASA OCEA AND THE NEXT NIGHT AT THE WEDDING RECEPTION. ABOVE RIGHT, TIFFANY CHANGED INTO A GOLD SEQUIN NUMBER FOR DANCING THE NIGHT AWAY. BELOW, GUESTS WATCH PERFORMANCES IN THE BACK GARDEN OF SUBIN.
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The reception concert showcased amazing musicians like Latin Grammy-winner Mireya Ramos
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Celebrations!
Nestled in the hotel zone is one of the mostphotographed houses in Mérida...
EL PINAR
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Event Planning Guide For anything from a small cocktail party to a large-scale destination wedding, check out these 30 venues
Y
UCATÁN’S GLORIOUS PAST and dynamic present make this region a perfect setting for gatherings of all kinds. Mérida and the surrounding area is blessed with spacious, historic properties that today lend themselves perfectly to elegant special events. As much as we treasure our past, we are also very modern. Contemporary hotels and event venues are competing hard for your business and promise on-point service for your guests. Here are some of the best local options around for any occasion.
MANSIONS EL PINAR Nestled in the hotel zone is a one of the most-photographed houses in Mérida: a pink Victorian jewel built in 1904. The villa is suited for a big event that can overflow into a side and front garden outside. The antiques-filled rooms, in the Belle Epoque and Art Noveau styles, are available for tours and photo shoots. Capacity: 500 Calle 60 331, Centro, Mérida, elpinar.com. mx, IG: @elpinar_merida. 999-380-7710 QUINTA MONTES MOLINA This Porfiriato-era mansion and museum on the city’s grand boulevard has a modern pavilion in its backyard. The outdoor space fits 250 guests for a banquet and 400 for a cocktail party. Terraces fit up to 80 people and an indoor air-conditioned lounge seats 20. An indoor hall fits 50 people. The mansion, one of the prettiest on the Paseo, is also perfect for photo shoots. Capacity: 400 Paseo de Montejo 469, Mérida www.laquintamm.com, IG: @laquintamm, 999-925-5999
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H AC I E N DA SAC C H I C H
HACIENDAS HACIENDA CHAKA A new building designed in the mode of a historic hacienda, Chaka offers creature comforts such as air-conditioned bathrooms. One of the most convenient to the Centro, the complex is 10 minutes from the north of Mérida. One item of interest is their blog, which includes a special post for same-sex couples wishing to wed. Capacity: 400 Calle 17 159, Hacienda San Diego Cutz, Conkal 999-224-5687, haciendachaka.com, IG: @haciendachaka HACIENDA CHICHÍ SUÁREZ Sprawling, eclectic compound, one of the area’s oldest and storied haciendas dating to the 1500s, once owned by Don Juan de Montejo Maldonado, grandson of Francisco de Montejo el Mozo, founder of Mérida. Capacity: 600 C. 35 s/n-S/N, Chichí Suárez, 999-611-6017, haciendachichisuarez.com, IG: @haciendachichisuarez HACIENDA DZIBIKAK Welcome cocktails are served in the main house and nuptials are performed before a quaint wedding chapel in the garden. Manicured gardens are combined with natural charm with rustic elegance. The venue offers six guest rooms and a huge pool to splash around. Capacity: 2,000 outdoors Carretera Umán - Hunucmá Km. 5, Umán 988-933-0006, haciendadzibikak.com, IG: @haciendadzibikak
HACIENDA SAC CHICH A former 17th-century henequen factory provides a striking backdrop for any event. Intimate gardens contrast with the Great Lawn, which is the size of a football field and lined with royal palms. A professional wedding planner is required to coordinate details. Micro-weddings and elopements are also accommodated. Capacity: 150 Calle 16, Acanceh, 999-248-1168 www.haciendasacchich.com IG: @haciendasacchich HACIENDA SAN ANTONIO HOOL The entire estate — eight rooms, four main suites, one junior suite, and three deluxe rooms — can be rented for up to 16 guests. A highlight here is a chapel for civil weddings, conferences, talks or exclusive dinners. The historic main house includes an intimate wine cellar for 12 dinner guests. Capacity: 700 Calle 3, San Antonio Hool, 999-688-5990, www.sanantoniohool.com, IG: @sanantoniohool HACIENDA SANTA LUCÍA KANTOYNÁ Dripping with romance, this jungle-red colonial villa includes a garden, esplanade and a strikingly ornate chapel, along with rooms for overnight guests. A bridal suite has room for family and friends to gather. The Church of St, Francis of Asisi is 2.5 miles away. Capacity: 400 Tablaje, 3610 Hacienda, Conkal, 999-278-5900 haciendasantaluciakantoyna.com, IG: @haciendasantaluciakantoyna HACIENDA SELVA MAYA For an event with a side of adventure, this
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Celebrations!
Capacity: 300 Calle 20 S/N between 19 and 19A, Comisaría Xcanatún, 999-930-2140 www.angsana.com/mexico/hacienda-xcanatun, IG: @hacienda.xcanatun HACIENDA YAXCOPOIL As an events venue, meals can be set outside under the stars with fairytale lighting, or inside for more intimate events. There is a guest room available for the bridal couple’s night and a large service kitchen for banquets. When not booked for events, Yaxcopoil is a popular tourist destination that recalls its days as a henequen plantation and cattle ranch. Capacity: 1,000 Carretera Federal 261, Calle 21 No.500-Km 220, Yaxcopoil, 999-900-1193 www.yaxcopoil.com IG: @hacienda.yaxcopoil
H AC I E N DA SA N A N TO N I O H O O L could be the place. Selva Maya has a cenote with a zip line circuit and access to other jungle-centered tours in the area. It’s affiliated with Valladolid’s most prominent hotel on the main square, which makes planning easier. Capacity: 600 Carretera Federal, Valladolid - Mérida Km. 3.5; 985-852-6095 mesondelmarques.com/selva-maya IG: @selvamayamex
HACIENDA SUBIN
Built over a 300-year period from the 1680s to present day, this former henequen plantation on 60 acres is both a private home and event space perfect for intimate weddings. The unique property is also rented for photo shoots and films. The compound is defined by its terraced gardens and three memorable structures: a romantic Casa Principal with magnificent Moorish arches, a Porfiriato-era machine house and an elegant orangerie-style pool house with an ancient stone ringed pool, designed by Laura Kirar. Capacity: 150 25 km from Mérida in Subincancab, Yucatán haciendasubin.com, IG: @haciendasubin HACIENDA TAHDZIBICHÉN Relatively close to the city is this mid-priced venue fit for a big party. The main house is fronted by a 26,000-square-foot corral surrounded by majestic ancestral trees. Behind the house, in a vast garden with fruit trees, are the imposing ruins of a machine room. Reported to be a favorite haunt of Mexican 40
movie icon Pedro Infante while he was at the peak of stardom. Capacity: 3,000 Carretera Mérida - Timucuy, Mérida 999-328-9198 IG: @haciendatah HACIENDA TEMOZON This estate also functions as a 28-room hotel and spa in Abala, or “Place of Plums,” the center of the Ruta Puuc. The hacienda puts guests in the proximity of ancient Maya sites such as Sayil, Labna, Kabah, Uxmal and the Caves of Loltun. Capacity: 1,500 Km 182 Carretera Mérida-Uxmal, Temozón Sur, 999-923-8089, ihg.com HACIENDA TEYA An uber-traditional hacienda on the outskirts of Mérida that is convenient to the new Tren Maya station. A French-style Great Hall, or Gran Salón Case de Máquinas, transforms a former machine room into an elegant ballroom for 450 guests. Capacity: 450 Carretera Mérida - Peto, Hacienda, Teya 999-429-2431 IG: @haciendateya HACIENDA XCANATUN North of the Periférico, this restored 18th-century “urban resort” is one of the most iconic henequen (sisal) haciendas in the Yucatán . With a chapel, four acres of private gardens, an Olympic-size swimming pool, 18 historic suites, 36 newer suites and a full-service restaurant, this resort fits both weddings and honeymoons.
CENOTE ZAZIL TUNICH Romance 20 meters underground: The package includes a guided tour, a Mayan purification ceremony, and a romantic dinner alongside stone formations and the sacred water of Xibalba. Aimed at couples getaways or small groups celebrating anniversaries or engagements. Cabins for couples. Capacity: 150 Km. 6 , Carretera Yalcobá, Valladolid, X’Tut 985-808-5827, zaziltunich.com IG: @zaziltunich
HOTELS
CASA LECANDA This boutique luxury hotel is, by definition, on the small side, and it’s a wonderful place to host an average-size birthday or anniversary lunch or dinner for 30. A cocktail affair on the terrace can accommodate 150. The location puts guests in the heart of Calle 47’s “restaurant row.” From the elaborate pasta tiles to the hammocks swaying on the terrace, its décor exemplifies Yucatecan style to the hilt. Capacity: 30 Calle 47 471 between 54 and 56, Centro, Mérida, 999-928-0111 casalecanda.com IG: @casalecanda CHABLÉ YUCATÁN A super-luxury resort and spa that has appeared on more than one global best-of lists, Chablé emphasizes nature and connection with holistic Mayan spirituality. The campus is nestled in 750 acres of jungle and each casita connects with nature via its own private plunge pool. Capacity: 400 Tablaje #642, Chocholá. 554-161-4262, yucatan.chablehotels.com IG: @chableyucatan ECOTEL QUINTA REGIA All 110 rooms are decorated in Mexican colonial style and have private terraces with garden views. El Mexicano restaurant serves traditional regional dishes, while the palapa JAN-FEB 24
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Avenida Colón 508, García Ginerés, Mérida 999-689-2020, mundoimperial.com/wayam IG: @hotelwayam
EVENT HALLS
PHOTO: SCOTT COE
H AC I E N DA S U B I N bar adds to a festive atmosphere. Capacity: 500 Calle 40 160A, Sta. Lucia, Valladolid 985-856-3472 ecotelquintaregia.com.mx ecotelqr@prodigy.net.mx IG: @ecotelquintaregia FIESTA AMERICANA One of Mérida’s most grand hotels, this large-scale mainstay has traditional meeting and banquet rooms, including the recently updated Gran Salon Yucatán, for 1,000 of your best friends. Special group rates for stay-over guests who can choose from among 350 rooms — the most of any hotel in the city. Capacity: 1,000 Paseo Montejo 451 at Avenida Colón fiestaamericana.com HYATT REGENCY MÉRIDA Over 11,000 square feet of flexible banquet spaces for catered events. Upstairs are 286 guest rooms in one of the city’s largest hotels. If booking a room, splurge on the top floors where an executive lounge has snacks and drinks all day. Capacity: 500 Av. Colón 344, Centro 999-942-1234, hyatt.com PALACIO MAYA This 70-room hotel has a restaurant with a capacity for 160 guests plus 900 square meters of garden space with hammocks and lounge chairs, suited for nightlife. Facilities are topped with a sky terrace with a multipurpose room. Capacity: 160 Calle 62 327, Centro, Mérida 999-431-1588, hotelpalaciomaya.com.mx IG: @hotelpalaciomaya PIEDRA DE AGUA A historic colonial hotel a stone’s throw off the Plaza Grande best known for the bohemian feel of its outdoor terrace. Calle 60 496, Centro, Mérida 999-924-2300 www.piedradeagua.com IG: @hotelpiedradeaguamerida
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SUREÑO HOTEL A relative newcomer to the edge of the hotel zone, this contemporary hotel and its La Mata restaurant have attractive dining rooms off the lobby and a breezy rooftop terrace — all suitable for events of all kinds. A private room seats 10 for a gourmet breakfast, lunch or dinner. Capacity: 60 Calle. 62 298 Centro, Mérida, 999-542-2488, surenohotel.com, IG: @surenohotel VILLA MERCEDES Part of the Hilton Curio Collection, this hotel was recently remodeled top to bottom and emphasizes high-quality dining. Banquet rooms are ample and modern. Their website allows party hosts to create an “event website” so guests can book their own rooms in your block. Capacity: 350 Avenida Colón 500, Centro, Mérida 999-942-9000 hilton.com IG: @villamercedesmerida WAYAM MUNDO IMPERIAL Expanding from one of the street’s gracious art-deco mansions, this facility has open spaces that flow into a central garden, surrounded by trees, lush vegetation, and a fountain. The garden courtyard and rooftop space are available. Capacity: 100
CASA DE LAS TORRES Elaborately and imaginatively detailed event venue with a domed honeymoon suite. The site is opened up often for fundraising events, as well, but it’s best known as a fantasy zone for weddings. Capacity: 120 Calle 75 #503 x 64 y 62, Mérida, 999 267 3500, casadelastorresyucatan.com @casadelastorresyucatan MARGO-AMALIA VENUE From the team that put Catrín on Calle 47 comes this event venue with indoor and outdoor spaces for celebrations of all kinds. Menus are customized to each client. Calle 10, esquina, Av Jose Diaz Bolio 65, Col. México, 999-970-9912, margoamalia.mx IG: @margoamalia.mx PICHETA This restaurant has an unmatched view of the Plaza Grande, the Cathedral and the Olimpo Cultural Center. So it must be a tourist trap, no? No. Some of Mérida’s most noted chefs are in charge here. The rooftop terrace is often booked for private parties, and a party here would wow out-of-town guests. Maybe some locals, too. The menu is contemporary. Calle 61 501, Centro, Mérida, 999-506-0339, picheta.mx, IG: @pichetamx SALÓN GALLOS This restaurant–entertainment complex in Mejorada has multiple spaces for a private gathering: Host a movie screening in the small cinema, soak in the artwork in the gallery, or just book space in the MexicanLebanese restaurant. Calle 63 459-B, Mejorada, Centro, Mérida 999-189-6564, salongallos.mx, IG: @salongallos
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Conscious Couture Three local designers with very different styles, but similar missions: to make a difference, not just fashion
KASIA KULENTY
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HE MOTHER DAUGHTER duo of Kasia Kulenty and Nisia Wasilewicz’s mission began with the simple braid. The pair has trained numerous women from 40+ families on how to incorporate their uniques detail of their clothes. “It became a symbol of our brand because every woman in the world can braid,” Kulenty explains. Nisia adds, “It’s something that kind of connects all of us inter-culturally across everything.” Hand dying, too, is key as each garment is individually colored with biodegradable dyes inspired by the weathering of walls in the Yucatán. The fashion line came out of Kulenty’s passion for helping her community and a personal experience in 2017. “I was introduced to a Mayan family that needed support,” she says. The family had lost their palapa roof. “I went [into their house], and there were three sewing machines in the kitchen, where three women were sewing...” The women sewed her designs and Kulenty began selling the dresses in Tulum. “The women in these families made the money to buy all of the supplies to rebuild the roof.” Every time she walks past the structure, Kulenty says she thinks, “That’s the roof that started this whole brand.”
Find Kasia Kulenty Concept Store in Cancún & Tulum. Also in Mérida at Hotel Cigno & Casa Olivia, set up private appointment in Mérida by visiting kasiakulenty.com.
A cultural arts space founded by Tina Marie Wood and Peter Karavais for new music, art, performance, dance & free expression, thrives in Centro
PHOTOGR APHS BY PEDRO LOLLET T
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Celebrations! Celebrations!
THE HAND
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HE HAND WAS born in February 2020 with an initial collection of approximately 17 second-hand upcicled pieces altered by artist Joshua Arfaxad, the brand’s creator. The main focus is sustainability and ethical practices in all areas of production and creation. A self-described “experimental fashion studio” most piees are limited edition. In the “Upcycling Collection” there are face interventions using fabric waste from previous collections. Inspired by neutrality, the ephemeral, and a celebration of the simplicity of color and natural fabrics, it draws influence from the Yucatán Peninsula and its people. This collection features pieces without predefined sizes or genders, designed for diverse bodies—crafted for anyone who values the uniqueness of each piece. The Hand studio is at Calle 15 180H in García Gineres, Mérida by appointment. The Preciat Boutique is downtown, on Calle 55 between 62 and 64, Parque de Santa Lucía, and at Hegel 232 Polanco in Mexico City.
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Celebrations!
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Elena Martínez Bolio
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LENA MARTÍNEZ BOLIO was born in Mérida, the only girl among six brothers. At the age of just 12, she was the first female to ever be accepted in wood carving at the State Center of Fine Arts of Mérida. Now, as a multidisciplinary artist, she uses different techniques to express her work which is rooted in societal and women’s issues. In 2018 she started Desbordada, a clothing and home textiles workshop. On this spread, photographer Patricia Robert captured artist Monica Rezman’s daughter, Ruby Writer, in Bolio’s hand-embroidered linen designs. “Every time I would traveled to Mérida I would be looking around and on lucky day I would find one. I feel very special wearing Elena’s pieces and very fortunate to have her as a friend,” says Robert.
Find Elena Martínez Bolio at Desbordada at Calle 4 Diag. 160B, between 15 and 17, Montecristo, Mérida. 999-200-8180. IG: @ elenamartinezbolio
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T H E 1 3 T H S H O W C A S E O F H O M E S TO U R A BENEFIT FOR FUNDACIÓN BAI AC
P H OTO G R A P H S B Y PAT R I C I A R O B E R T, M A R C E LO T R O C H E & LU I S C A M P O S
J A N U A RY 2 1 , 2 0 2 4 NOON UNTIL 4 PM $ 8 0 0 P E S O D O N AT I O N • $ 4 0 0 P E S O S W I T H S T U D E N T I D T I C K E T S AVA I L A B L E AT H E N N E S S E Y ’ S , G A I A N I S A LÓ N , E L T E M P LO, E S KO N D I D A P I Z Z A , B A I O F F I C E Y U C ATÁ N M A G A Z I N E I S A P R O U D P L AT I N U M S P O N S O R O F T H I S E V E N T B E N I F I T T I N G THE YUCATÁN COMMUNITY IN THE PREVENTION OF HIV, STIs & TEENAGE PREGNANCIES 48
ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
N O .
Casa
THE EL PUEBLO GUEST HOUSE ENTRANCE LEADS TO A PRIVATE OASIS IN THE HEART OF CENTRO.
Convivial Living
50 El Pueblo Guest House 52
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Colonial Inspiration
54 Maiquez Studio Opens
56 Shopping for Pasta Tile
LUXE ACCOMMODATIONS
¡El Pueblo, Mágico! M
ARRIED PARTNERS CECIL Hemingway and Jeremy Proctor came to Mérida in 2011 for a simple, uncomplicated Thanksgiving vacation, and bought a house there that same week. Big things soon started to happen at that modest home on Calle 56, at the very foot of Paseo de Montejo. They would subsequently acquire the adjacent parking lot and two other neighboring houses as they came up for sale, and join them into a single grand address that 12 years later became a seven-suite bedand-breakfast and retreat: El Pueblo.
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The pair reserved over half the total area as a garden planted exclusively with species native to the Yucatán Peninsula. The result is a lush, tropical oasis in the very heart of Centro. El Pueblo even features a 25-meter freshwater swimming pool — an Olympic-size manmade cenote. Despite the many unexpected twists and turns the project has taken, the mission from the outset has remained intact: to create a space for men, especially gay men. To some, the notion might seem unnecessary. Same-sex couples are regularly seen strolling Paseo de Montejo without unwanted attention. There is a massive
Pride parade in Mérida every year, and same-sex marriage is now legal in Mexico. But many gay men have experienced outright hostility, and even violence, both within their home communities and while traveling. El Pueblo is a welcoming space where gay men do not need to edit their personal stories and adjust their comportment — in short, where they feel safe to be their authentic selves. “There is a comfort and ease to it that is really nice,” Cecil notes. “That extra level of affinity counts for a lot.” Jeremy cites a recent cenote diving excursion as vindication for designating El Pueblo a gay men’s destination: “The hosts and other participants were cordial, but we could sense a sort of unease about them, even sharing a car on the drive out. We would really rather just enjoy ourselves and the company, and not have that sense of ‘otherness’ be the thing we remember about a trip.” El Pueblo has received considerable interest from organizations that book yoga retreats, men’s workshops, LGBT birding expeditions, and destination weddings. Jeremy and Cecil are also collaborating with Ricardo Contreras of Mérida Gay Tours to expand the El Pueblo experience to points beyond. “This is exactly what so many of my JAN-FEB 24
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PHOTOS: EL PUEBLO
Bed, breakfast, and a sense of community for gay men in Centro Histórico
clients are looking for, but can’t yet find in Mérida: a gay-owned men’s space,” says Ricardo. El Pueblo serves a demographic that might otherwise pass Mérida over to seek out other gay-friendly destinations such as Puerto Vallarta. El Pueblo is positioned not only right at the foot of the Paseo de Montejo but also within arm’s reach of the new restaurant zone known as the Corridor Gastronómico. With the new tram link to the Tren Maya in place, El Pueblo will effectively open up the whole Peninsula to the gay traveler. Visit elpueblomerida.com
COMMON ROOMS AND PRIVATE QUARTERS PROVIDE BOTH PRIVACY AND COMMUNITY FOR GAY MEN STAYING IN MÉRIDA. OPPOSITE, A NATURAL-FILTER SWIMMING POOL AND A DINING AREA BRING EL PUEBLO’S GUESTS TOGETHER. SPONSORED CONTENT
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LUXE LISTING
The Height of Drama Colonial Inspiration: No trading comfort and luxury for a great location
L
OOKING AT THE expansive view from the roofto p, the pleasures of Centro living are evident. Stepping inside this elegant urban mansion, the beauty, comfort and drama continue. With dramatic, soaring colonial beamed ceilings, gloriously stenciled walls and decorative moldings, Colonial Inspiration is Santiago’s gem among gems. It has been featured in magazines such as Ambientes and was one of the first destinations on the Showcase of Homes tour. It’s just three blocks from Plaza Grande and just around the corner from Santiago Park, which explains the church towers you see from the roof. Each bedroom has a practical use rarely seen in such a historic home. It has two marvelous master suites, both with king beds, seating areas and their own bathrooms with double sinks and showers. One suite has a private terrace with views of Santiago Church. The other suite has Juliet balconies with views across Mérida to the Cathedral. There are two more bedrooms, one with a double bed, its own bathroom and a shaded balcony overlooking the back garden. The fourth bedroom overlooks the pool and has a single bed with access to a bathroom at the pool level. Each bedroom has air-conditioning and ceiling fans. The roomy, well-equipped kitchen and dining room (the table seats eight) are
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air-conditioned and perfect for entertaining guests. Offered at US$1.1 million by Mexico International. Go online for listing 6303 at mexintl.com to see more photos, and contact Colm Cooney at colmyucatan@gmail.com or 999-169-6430 for more information and a private tour.
SPONSORED CONTENT
BY THE NUMBERS Width: 8.5 meters
Bedrooms: 4
Depth: 36 meters
Bathrooms: 5
Lot area: 316 meters
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DESIGN DISCOVERY
THIS PAGE, MAIQUEZ STUDIO’S PENDANT LIGHT DISPLAY HANGS IN THE NEWEST PART OF THE RENOVATED AND UPDATED SPACE IN MERIDA’S GARCÍA GINERÉS NEIGHBORHOOD. PHOTO, TREY SPEEGLE
Décor Galore
Studio Maiquez is off the beaten path, but it won’t stay a secret for long.
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W
ALKING INTO MAIQUEZ Studio is not accidental. It’s located on a quiet street in García Ginerés, so it won’t likely be by chance that you arrive there. If you’ve been around a while though, you might have known the space when it owned by the late Dr. Guzman who filled it with unique treasures. Today it’s been transformed by artist Armando Maiquez, who purchased the property in 2022. He also bought the property behind the orginal house, and expanded the existing structure and facade, adding another level in the front section and a double-height gallery space in the rear. There, he shows paintings, prints, and sculpture and is planning an exhibit by our recent “Studio Visit” artist Ric Best later this year. It’s a decorator’s dream. I was floored when I first stepped through the doors at an opening party last month. I had heard there were beautiful things but I was really amazed at the vast array and scale of the spaces and the exterior garden. There’s a myriad of pottery here in all shapes and sizes, table top items, antique furniture, lighting, mirrors, paving stones, fountains, outdoor furniture, paintings and sculpture and on and on. One of my favorite pieces is a wicker monkey bar (above right). Maiquez is from Cuba but has lived in Mérida for over 20 years and, in fact, his house is just across the street. “It’s such a short commute. I love it,” he says. –Trey Speegle Maiquez Studio is at Calle 19 201D between 22 and 24, in García Ginerés, Mérida. IG: @maiquezstudio
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TOP LEFT, SHOPPERS ADMIRING THE VARIOUS WARES ON DISPLAY. ABOVE, THE RENOVATED FACADE. LEFT, A WICKER & STEEL MONKEY BAR MADE IN OAXACA. BELOW, THE REAR COURTYARD, SCATTERED WITH GIANT POTS, RESCUED STONES, AND OUTDOOR FURNISHINGS, ARE ALL WORTH EXPLORING FOR INSPIRATION AND PURCHASE. PHOTOS, ARTURO HERNANDEZ
SHOPPING FOR
PASTA TILE W I T H L O U I S N AVA R R E T E
PHOTOGR APH BY PATRICIA ROBERT
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F YOU’RE ANYTHING like us, we heard of Mérida from friends who’d bought a fabulous house … where? On went YouTube and on came the Neighborhoods of Mérida series or House Hunters International and after a while we would giggle at the inevitable “original pasta tile floor” comment. The floors are everywhere, one could say ubiquitous, and my theory is that aside from the climate which makes wooden floors impossible, they perform a yeoman’s task of decorating the otherwise simple cubes and boxes that make up the volumes of colonial homes in town. Made from humble materials, a simple mixture of dry and wet cement is pressed along with a mixture of pigments poured into a mold. There’s no kiln process, but the extreme pressure binds the material together and the slow drying as they’re stacked on their sides make for an extremely hard and durable tile. (See opposite page for more on that.) Whether you decide to polish them with kerosene to give them a wet look or just shine them to a high buff and let them acquire a subtle patina, they’re the Yucatán’s version of a Persian carpet.
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ABOVE, PASTA TILES PROLIFERATE IN THE SHOWROOM OF FABRICA DE MOSAICOS LA PENINSULAR. BELOW, A REPEATING BIRD PATTERN IN A CUSTOM FLOOR MURAL BY ARTIST DAVID SERRANO CREATED BY PENINSULAR FOR LOUIS NAVARRETE.
They’re the Yucatán’s version of a Persian carpet. Did I mention they’re beautiful? Create a pattern or design them in any color combination you can come up with. If you’re looking for a custom pattern, you’ll first need to have a metal mold made, after which can then select your colors. After a strike-off or two to ensure that the pattern and colors work in your space, you just sit back and wait for the tiles to be made. This can take a while depending on the design’s intricacy and the vendor you choose to work with. Here’s my curated list of who makes tiles in and around Mérida these days: Louis Navarrete is a Parsons-trained environmental and interior designer working on making the world a better place, one room at a time, in Mérida. IG: @louisnavarrete
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FABRICA DE MOSAICOS LA PENINSULAR
Every once in a while, if you’re While there are various factories scattered throughout the Yucatan decidedly the most famous is Fabrica de Mosaicos La Peninsular (left). Renowned for their work, their tiles have been used in the Empire State Building. And they have an exceptional level of crispness, which is often lacking in tiles of this type. Calle 62 619, Centro, Mérida mosaicoslapeninsular.com; 999-923-1196
tile. They pride themselves on being a uniquely artisanal resource. Their colors are slightly different than what one might expect in traditional design with a chalky quality to the palette ; as with all of the other companies entirely customiziable. An interactive feature on their website helps customers come up with their own unique designs. Calle 1H 107 between 20 and 22 Col. México Norte, Mérida; musaiko.mx; IG: @musaiko.mx 999-351 6502
MOSAICOS DZUNUNCAN
Hard-to-find patterns and borders has been Mosaicos Dzununcan’s specialty for more than 30 years. While tiles (A pattern called Cathedral is below) are most commonly found in the
20 x 20 size range they offer tiles from 10 x 10 to a rectangle of 10 x 30. Calle 37 318 Col. Monte Alban, Mérida; mosaicosdzununcan.com IG: @mosaicosdzununcan 999-217-9326
MOSAICOS TRAQUI
Another family-owned business, Mosaicos Traqui always has most of their solid colors and popular patterns (right) in stock. Being able to rely on their quick turnaround time is always nice, especially if you find that you need your tile in a hurry to meet a deadline. Watch as they make your tiles. Everything is made onsite in Ucu, which is just past Caucel on the highway leading to the beach. Calle 21 74 between 14 and 16, Ucu, (exit 18 on the Periférco toward Celestún) mosaicostraqui.com.mx IG: @mosaicostraqui 999-956-9416
TEJAS Y TALAVERA
While less common than pasta tile in the Yucatán, Talavera is what most people think of when they say “Mexican tile” — highly glazed with a slightly
MUSAIKO
Musaiko (top) is a newer company specializing in more graphic and slightly more modern feeling
raised texture. Talavera tiles are a bit more complicated to make. They need 50-90 days to dry and a kiln firing after being dipped, painted and glazed. Calle 6 118, Felipe Carrillo Puerto Norte, Mérida tejasytalaveras.com 999-926-3816
FERCO CERÁMICA
Another attractive alternative to pasta and Talavera is porcelain. Ferco offers a beautiful selection of imported tiles. My current favorite, which I’m hoping to use along with pasta tile, is a Roman brick that comes in a variety of colors. One could easily border and supplement these stylish tiles to create panels. Avenida Líbano at Calle 29, Col. México, Mérida fercoceramica.com.mx IG: ferco_ceramica_mx 999-351-7219
How Pasta Tile is Made
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ASTA TILE FLOORS, practical in a hot and humid climate like Yucatán’s, started emulating decorative rugs and carpets here in the 1890s. These mosaic tiles are often brightly colored with flamboyant floral or geometric patterns, that for generations were commonly favored in traditional Yucatecan homes. After falling out of favor as cheaper ceramic tiles arrived, they came back in vogue in the late 1990s. Soon pasta tiles was also seen on walls, stair treads and furniture. So the craft remains alive today, and pasta tiles are in high enough demand to keep dozens of artisans busy. A ladrillero, or brick maker, can make from 80-130 tiles per day. It all depends on the intricacy of the designs. These tiles are not fired or baked. The pressure does the work. Unlike more common ceramic tiles, pasta tiles are tough enough to last 50 to 100 years, if not more. — Lee Steele
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THE PROCESS
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1. It all begins with liquid, tinted cement being scooped into square tin molds. 2. The decorative cement is then topped with a sandy layer, and then a thicker, chunkier mixture, which will be the durable bottom of the tile. 3. The piece is then sent to a machine press, where high pressure quickly packs everything together. (Not pictured) 4. When it comes out of the press, the tile is stacked on its side to dry for more than a week. Photos, Patricia Robert
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MARKET PULSE Should I Restore or Build New?
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T’S THE AGE-old question in places like Mérida. There are beautiful old homes, but restoring them can seem like such a daunting proposition. Building new gives you flexibility, but has its own obstacles. Some observations from firsttime builders and the pros: “Your key considerations when deciding this start with temperature and humidity control. Older homes may feel cooler due to traditional building materials, but they could also harbor humidity issues that are often easier to address in a new construction. Also consider structural integrity. While old roofs and floors may have aesthetic appeal, potential issues like rusting rebar and damage to wood may compromise the structural integrity, leading to problems such as leaks. Construction permits are an issue with a new-build. The bureaucratic intricacies can be frustrating. Then again, the existing layout of an old home may impose limitations on the desired functionality, impacting aspects such as the ability to add a garage. Introducing wells, septic systems, or pools becomes more intricate during the restoration process, requiring careful consideration of access and potential damage to the existing structure.” — Fernando Abreu, Centro Architects “If you’re building from scratch, you can of course customise to your needs and tastes. New homes also tend to be more energy efficient, lowering utility costs over time, You can easily incorporate the latest home automation systems and technologies in a new build. New homes typically come with warranties, as well. Finally, new homes are built to meet current building codes and safety standards. Then, when you renovate an older home, you will likely enjoy the character and charm of an older building, Restoring an existing home can be more environmentally friendly, as it reduces the need for new materials and minimizes construction waste. It may be more cost-effective, depending on what you’re starting with. Moreover, restoring an old home can contribute to the preservation
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does notrequire permits, hiring of an architect and can be done in a fraction of the time as a total rebuild. In any case, a good real estate agent should be able to supply a builder, architect or designer on a second visit to a prospective property to help you make the right decision taking into account all elements of finances, patience and ease.” — Ross Schiering, Merida Centro Real Estate
“If you know what
you want, and have a masochistic and visionary streak, building is for you.” of local heritage and maintain the aesthetic character of a neighborhood. The downside is the timeframe: Building permits can be a time-consuming process when the property’s location is prominent and it has some historical significance.” — Carlos Betancourt, Merida Living Real Estate “To restore or buy ‘done up’ is one of the great questions and often changing ideas when clients are shopping for a house in Mérida. Buying ‘done up’ of course is much simpler versus the time (a lot) and effort of full-on design, navigating government red tape and learning the way of doing things in a new country. Imagining that you, as someone new to the market, are going to save money restoring a home (often for the first time in your life) can often be a sad surprise. A third and often overlooked midway-point between these two options is what I call “restoration light.” After choosing a property that has been done up in the past yet looks dated or missing a desired design elements, etc., and of course getting a full condition report beforehandchanging out a kitchen, bathroom, floors etc can be much more reasonable than people imagine; most often this process
“Building is not for the faint of heart. If all you want is a nice place to live, I highly recommend buying a finished place. If you know what you want, and have a masochistic and visionary streak, building is for you!” — Cecil Hemingway, who with his partner, built from scratch “It’s really a question of the ultimate potential of the property. If the existing building has good bones and structure and you don’t have to demolish too much, you’ll save on materials and construction costs. Building from scratch can be easier but more costly, though you can make exactly what you want. Does it immediately speak to you? Then buy it!” — Elizabeth Lamont, currently restoring a mid-century house in Centro “The pros for restoring are retaining original architectural details, floors, doors, etc. whenever possible. The cons are, if you are in Centro, INAH has to approve any hanges to the original structure. For instance, if there’s a door where you don’t want one, you can’t remove it. Pros for building are room size, ceiling heights, flow of spaces and putting doors, windows, electrical outlets, fans, and fixtures wherever you want. Cons? Potential cost overruns, but that goes for restoring too.” — Trey Speegle, Mérida homeowner who restored and built new
“The pros for restoring are retaining original architectural details, floors, doors, whenever possible.”
“I mainly built new, but I kind of wish I had fully restored a historic property. I just moved my office from the ‘new’ part to an ‘old’ part of our house, and spending more time there than ever before. I’m enjoying the warmth and charm of the rustic hammock hooks, antique doors and niches. Retaining these vestiges is something I recommend in a restoration.” —Lee Steele, Roof Cat Media JAN-FEB 24
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YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
STUDIO VISIT
The Elephant in the Dark MONICA REZMAN is a busy artist with multiple concurrent exhibits and new-ish roots in the Yucatán
G
ETTING INTO MONICA Rezman’s studio takes a minute or two. It’s on a busy street in Centro Mérida and the contemporary house she built behind it in 2021-22 is set way at the back of the deep property, with a garden in the space in between, so it’s a bit of a hike. Appropriate, since when I asked her to describe her process, she said, “I make two and three dimensional work and I think about the space in between.” When I visited recently, she opens her front door with her usual matter-offact, sunny disposition, to an unrestored Colonial that houses her studio, at once
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both organized and strewn with colorful materials used in the making of that 2D and 3D work. (See above.) She studied painting and textile design at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and she still maintains a residence there in the city where she was born and raised. At SAIC, she spent a study-abroad year at the Instituto Allende in Mexico and that seemed to set a course for her return. In 1993, she studied classical drawing and painting at the Florence Academy of Art in Florence and in 1999 and 2002 Rezman was awarded an Art-in-Residence in Gujurat, India, one of the world’s most
revered craft communities in textiles. Speaking of artists in residence, in May of 2023 she had a month-long one in Mexico City at JO-HS gallery where she is currently in group show until January 13. Her one-person show, “The Meeting of Two Oceans”, in Chicago at 65Grand opens on January 19, 2024 and her exhibition (curated by our cover gal, Tiffany Meesha Thompson) opens at Salon Gallos in Mérida on February 1 and runs through March 30, 2024. The Salon Gallos show is titled “The Elephant in the Dark”. It is named after a poem written by Rumi, that essentially goes like this: JAN-FEB 24
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YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
“Mexico seems like a natural place for me to be making this work.” Five men who have never seen an elephant go into a dark room where an elephant is standing. They each feel it, trying to guess what it is. However, each of them only feels one part of the elephant, and bases his guess on that one part. One man thinks the leg is a column, one thinks the ear is a fan, and so on. The poem comes from an old Indian fable; in the original version of the story, the men are blind. Here is Rumi’s take on it, translated by Coleman Barks: “I loved this story because it can be related to art in the sense that everyone has their version of what they see. One perspective of the story is that it offers fresh thinking, hope, and the ability to look at what we think we know in new ways.” — Trey Speegle
LEFT, REZMAN IN HER STUDIO AT HER WORKTABLE WITH MATERIALS AND HER TRUSTY SINGER WORKHORSE. THIS PAGE, WITH FOUR RECENT WORKS DESTINED FOR HER EXHIBIT AT SALON GALLOS IN MÉRIDA.
“I felt like I was combining New York City graffiti art with beautiful Mérida fauna ... like I was merging two homes.”
Follow Monica on Instagram at @monicarezman and see more of her work at monicarezman.com.
PHOTOGR APHS BY PATRICIA ROBERT YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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JAN-FEB 24
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ESTER Y LIZA SPAY & NEUTER CAMPAIGNS IN YUCATAN Spaying and neutering stray animals through campaigns in Yucatán makes for healthier animals, safer communities and helps prevent exponential growth of their population, ultimately reducing the incidence of animal abandonment and suffering. By addressing the root cause of overpopulation, these campaigns alleviate the burden on animal shelters and rescue organizations.
To date, Ester y Liza has performed over 8,200 surgeries in local communities.
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Working towards a Better Future for Animals & Communities 63
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EXCLUSIVE LISTING
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