Yucatán Magazine / Issue 9 / The Wellness Issue by Yucatán Magazine

Expat happiness factors

The super duper superfoods we grow

Self-care, sweat lodges and fitness over 40

yucatanmagazine.com

the wellness issue

LA celebrity trainer Jennifer ‘JJ Dancer’ Johnson moved to Yucatán and never skipped a beat.

No. 9

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CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

índice: the wellness issue 16

L eaps & Bounds: JJ Johnson is in Motion

21 Fitness Over 40 22

Expat Happiness Factors

26 Massage Pros Who Make House Calls

32 Walk & Roll In the Park

35 The Bee Whisperer of Xcunya

ucatán’s Super Duper Y Superfoods

36 Sweat It Out Inside a Temazcal

24 Spa Advice:

You Come First

38 Hospitals 101: 10 Things to Know

departments 4 Editorial

Getaways: Rebellious Oaxaca

Yucatán at Home: Architecture and Luxury Listings

6 Books

13 Seen: The Yucatan Collection

Framed: Ken Perkins is the King of Color

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Editorial

Director Lee Steele lee@roofcatmedia.com Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht carlosrosado@roofcatmedia.com Marketing Yesica Benitez yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com Editorial Consultant Pablo Arroyo Díaz Creative Consultant Eduardo Vázquez Circulation Alejandro Pinto Tolosa ADDITIONAL CONTRIBUTORS Yesica Benitez Laurel Emery Amy Jones Jenita Lawal Brian D. Mahan Maggie Rosado van der Gracht Juanita Stein Claire Tyrpak Tamara Uribe Subscriptions subscriptions.yucatanmagazine.com Advertising & General Information hola@yucatanmagazine.com

yucatanmagazine.com yucatanmagazine yucatan.magazine yucatanmagazine

Why a Wellness Issue?

t’s our ninth issue and, for the first time, we’re tackling the topics of health care and wellness. And am I ever so glad that we are. Yucatán’s reputation for quality health care is growing quickly, and the region is chock full of spas and retreats that help people maintain their minds, bodies, and souls. You can’t spit without hitting a yoga class. The region also has a reputation for obesity and diabetes, which are at epidemic levels. For this issue’s Just Asking page, we surveyed readers on the healthy changes they’ve made since moving here. Just Asking normally garners about 20 or 30 good responses. This time, we got zilch. So we’re skipping Just Asking this issue. All the more reason for The Wellness Issue. It’s a reminder of the resources at arm’s length to regain, maintain, and enjoy good health. And that includes mental and emotional health. We’ve seen enough to know for sure that many of us came here with serious baggage. Moving abroad is rewarding but doesn’t solve any real problems. In fact, living in a new country has its challenges and stressors. See our Expat Happiness story on that topic. As we’ve expanded our scope, we met “JJ” at Bangin’ Body, who leads by example from her Mérida studio and makes working out fun. We also found an informal community of friends at Parque de la Alemán, keeping each other accountable in a quest to keep their bodies moving. We tap into Yucatán’s ancient healing heritage and bounty of superfoods. And we have tips for the over-40 crowd on keeping fit and strong. Snowbirds planning to return this fall will also want to know about hospital and surgery center options. We see that the Peninsula has kept up with the latest medical technology. It will also be a good time to plan skincare treatments — both cosmetic and clinical — which are worth considering having here. As Mérida inches toward being a significant medical tourism hub, we are watching the region’s health-care options blossom. And as we inch toward our golden years, we are happy to see that happen. 

Yucatán Magazine

AÑO 3, NÚMERO 9 Todos los derechos reservados por Roof Cat Media S de RL de CV, Calle 84, 278 x 59C y 59D Fraccionamiento Las Américas, Mérida, Yucatán, CP 97302. Prohibida la reproducción total o parcial del contenido sin autorización previa y por escrito de los editores. La revista asume que el material aquí presentado es original y no infringe derechos reservados de ley. Reserva de derechos de uso exclusivo del título. Yucatán Magazine no se hace responsable por el contenido de sus anunciantes.

Lee Steele Director, Yucatán Magazine lee@roofcatmedia.com

PRINTED IN YUCATÁN, MEXICO

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Books

A rich tapestry A A lush volume pays tribute to the country’s diverse design heritage

TEXT LEE STEELE PHOTOS NEWELL TURNER

round the time Newell Turner parted ways with a prominent New York City magazine publisher, he started working on a hefty book that would come to chronicle Mexico’s lush aesthetic legacy. Mexican: A Journey Through Design — all 4.28 pounds of it — was finally released in May 2023. Despite its size, Mexican isn’t overwhelming, mainly because it is organized into nine distinct sections: Pre-Columbian, Baroque, Colonial, Neoclassical, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Surrealism, Modernism, and Contemporary. It makes clear that “Mexican design” isn’t just one thing. Here, the camera’s lens zooms close or pulls out wide to reveal the breadth of Mexico’s interior design and architecture. Yucatán’s neo-Maya, hacienda and contemporary forms are well represented in Mexican, which is fortunate as well as logical since the author moved to Mérida’s Col. San Cristóbal a few years ago. Turner is a former editorial director at Elle Decor, House Beautiful, and Veranda, style director at House & Garden, and a founding editor of Hamptons Cottages & Gardens. As editor-in-chief of House Beautiful, he won a National Magazine Award for General Excellence. Now, Turner weaves his own design story into an elegantly conceived, large-scale, photo-driven book set in various places across Mexico. This vivid volume of color and texture has photos at well-played photo juxtapositions. In the opening spread, a henequen-sansevieria

Above, Angela Damman’s studio space and its henequen chandelier is paired with a photo of the same material drying in the sun at the designer’s hacienda.

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Left, the Baroque section of Mexican includes the Mérida home of American architect and designer Bruce Bananto. Top, a Mayan Deco detail of Mérida’s Casa del Pueblo, built in 1928. Author and photographer Newell Turner is pictured above.

textile is paired cunningly with a beachfront scene in Yucatán. Text and images are segregated so the reader fully absorbs the visual elements. It’s the kind of book to leave for a guest who thinks “Mexican style” begins and ends with papel picado and Talavera tiles. A former New York School of Interior Design trustee, Newell maintains a home in the Catskills but calls Mérida home. Newell is also a designer, having created a rug collection for nustory.com. “Over the years, Mexico made a recurring appearance in my pursuits,” Newell says. “So, after leaving Hearst in 2018, I had the opportunity to dive into a subject — Mexican design.” At the same time, he and his partner Douglas Clarke bought a house in the Centro of Mérida. “I had always wanted a courtyard house and a historic renovation project. Doug and I had been coming to Mérida for about eight YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

years and staying for increasingly longer periods of time. There’s no other way to say it except we simply love life here,” Newell says. In what he calls an “amazing experience,” the pair restored a circa-1900 house that had been converted into a small school and then abandoned. “My dream has been to return it to its former glory while designing to feel as if the original family never left.” The book’s genesis was his appreciation of Mexico’s vibrant design history. “It’s so much richer and diverse than most people in the United States know,” Newell says. “My plan for the rest of my life is to continue indulging my curiosity here. Mexico has so much to explore.”  Mexican: A Journey Through Design, published by Vendome Press, is available at Between the Lines bookstore in Mérida. 7

Books / Interview where the buildings are hundreds of years old and the downtown still buzzes every day with locals coming and going, reminds us of New York in the ’80s. High and low coexist seamlessly, and street life is remarkably authentic. In a town that has been exploding with culture for centuries, it’s hard not to be inspired and productive. You just have to give yourself over to the unpredictable Yucatán moon.

Galore galore P. David Ebersole and Todd Hughes stick to their creative processes while adjusting to, and loving, new surroundings

INTERVIEW BY LEE STEELE PHOTO CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

ot too long ago, P. David Ebersole and Todd Hughes — both accomplished writers, directors, and producers — followed a few friends and moved from Palm Springs to Mérida. We caught up with them while they were at a rented beach house working on their respective projects. What first attracted you to Mérida? We have long carried a fantasy about living in Mexico, and about 15 years ago, we were talking about it with an actress who was in a TV show I (David) was directing. She said she was from Mérida and we should really consider the Yucatán. It stayed with us. And last year, not one but three friends all bought here, boom, boom, boom — therapist Brian Mahan [see page 10], artists Angel Chen and her boyfriend Jeff Colson, and then Trey Speegle’s amazing project transforming a ruin into a paradise inspired us to come look. We came for five days in January 2021, saw 20 houses and settled on what is now Casita Galore. Now that you’re in Mérida, has your creative process changed? It took a few months to adjust to the local sense of tranquilo. Once you allow yourself to slow down, it’s hard to go back. Yet, our creative process remains more or less the

same. We still need to get away and focus, which is why we rented a beach house in nearby Chicxulub Puerto for the hot summer months. We both tend to work best in two shifts after we slowly get going around 11 and then again after lunch. At five, our dogs won’t allow us a moment’s peace until we walk and feed them. At that point, we are usually done for the day. There’s so much to do here, just as in L.A. and Palm Springs. How is it different? What impressed us even more than the architecture was that there is a growing community of creative people here. Palm Springs, being an English-language community, has more for us to do “out” — concerts, plays, movies, exhibits. Here, we find we spend most of our social time doing dinners and creating stronger connections with all the new friends we have been making. There’s culture, of course, and it’s exciting because it’s historical, which honestly is bringing a new perspective to our writing. Palm Springs is very immersed in pop culture. We loved it. And we still love it. But it is very inspiring to change your daily references so completely. Do you find yourself more or less productive living in Mérida? We have found Mérida to be a divine influence on our creativity. Living in Centro,

Do you have animals with you now, and did you bring them down from California? We brought our two lady pit bulls from Palm Springs — Fido Galore and Oopsydaisy, the same rescues who are referenced in the acknowledgments of 99 Miles. They are excellent travelers. We’ve crossed the U.S. by car with them twice. We finished the “99 Miles, 99 Cities” book tour last summer in Houston, where we hopped a flight and brought the girls over the Gulf. Commercial airlines won’t take what they call “bully breeds,” and crossing the border by car with them was too nerve-wracking of an idea. So part of our budget for moving here was that final chartered jet. The grrrls came to Mexico in style, and they are committed to living out their days here with us. What projects are you working on now? What can we expect next? David — I am writing the sequel to 99 Miles From L.A. called 24 Hours from Tulsa. Both are song titles, and where Palm Springs is indeed that distance from the big city, it turns out that Tulsa is a full day’s drive if you power through from Mexico City. Without giving too much away, 99 ends with one of the characters crossing the border and disappearing into Mexico. Here I am, so it made sense to pick the story up where it left off. I write hard-boiled crime fiction, so, you know, while both 99 and 24 are autobiographical between the lines, the storyline is a bit more dramatic!

Todd — I have embarked on my first novel, I Kissed Andy Warhol, a story of the last days of disco in New York, when the city was at its most chaotic yet wildly exciting. I actually did kiss Andy Warhol at Studio 54 and scared the crap out of him. Now I’m creating a fiction around the guy I was, living in New York as it evolves from the bohemian creative epicenter into the monied, elite, and gentrified mecca it became.  P. David Ebersole and Todd Hughes are at work on a new website which will offer an archive and history of their entire careers. It’s still under development at EbHuCo.com. Capsule reviews of their latest books are on the next page. ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

For the bookshelf Juanita Stein » 99 Miles From L.A. by P. David Ebersole

» Lunch With Lizabeth by Todd Hughes

The haunting lyrics of the song by the same title set the mood for this compelling noir mystery-thriller by local author P. David Ebersole. Palm Springs — 99 miles from L.A. — is, of course, where the story’s destiny plays out, with equal parts hope and despair. The novel’s emotional roller coaster ride involves Frank, a singer who pays the bills by working as a music professor. He embarks on an affair with Shelley, unhappily married to a man who has made his fortune skimming the cash from his marijuana business. When Shelley comes up with a scheme to steal the cash, she enlists Frank’s help and that of Ramon, her very friendly — and very handsome — local bartender. Sparks fly between Ramon and Frank, but the real triangle of the story is made of lust, loyalty, and betrayal. Full of unexpected twists and turns, the fast-paced, bittersweet noir poses the classic question: How well do we ever really know another person? Paperback, 186 pages, 429 pesos. Signed by the author.

In one of the most heartfelt memoirs you’ll ever read, local author Todd Hughes shares the story of his 20-year friendship with Lizabeth Scott, Hollywood’s queen of film noir. Although her reign was not long — from the 1940s to the 1950s — she made 21 films in which her stunning beauty and husky voice are unforgettable. By the time Todd finally met her in 1997, over a memorable lunch at Musso & Frank in Hollywood, the Golden Age of Hollywood was in the past, and so was her fame. But the two formed a friendship and bond that forever changed his life, and their growing devotion to each other allowed them to express their affection even when they found themselves at odds over politics, art, or rumors from her past. The nostalgic glimpses of Lizabeth’s personal letters to Todd remind us of an elegant, long-gone era. Todd’s love, admiration, and respect for Lizabeth come through in every word of every page of this lovely, touching memoir. Paperback, 203 pages, 429 pesos. Signed by the author.

Juanita Stein owns the Mérida bookstore Between the Lines on Calle 62 and 53 in the Centro. Visit facebook.com/BetweenTheLinesMerida

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Getaways

Oaxaca’s rebellious streak There’s an edgy side to one of Mexico’s most compelling cities

TEXT AND PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

exico has no shortage of intriguing towns and cities, but Oaxaca de Juárez, or just Oaxaca for short, is in a league of its own. Despite having the amenities of any sizeable Mexican city, Oaxaca’s identity is firmly rooted in its Zapotec past, vibrant art scene, unique and exotic cuisine, and an undeniably rebellious streak. Despite not being as widely known as the Maya or Aztecs, the Zapotec was one of the most ancient and sophisticated Mesoamerican civilizations. Monte Albán and Mitla are by far the most visited Zapotec archaeological sites. Still, the region surrounding the city of Oaxaca is full to the brim with other ancient cities, including Dainzú, Atzompa, and San José del Mogote, founded in the second millennium BCE. The legacy of these remarkable people continues to this day through their language, cuisine, and crafts. An immense variety of handmade and naturally dyed textiles are on offer. Many of the same designs found on ancient Zapotec monuments are represented on rugs, pillow cushions, and clothes. These are not mere tourist nicknacks but prized elements of contemporary Zapotec and Oaxacan culture. Oaxacan cuisine is a revelation. Aside from the endless varieties of mole, there are several other regional staples. Chapulines are fried grasshoppers, usually salted with garlic and chili powder. They are popular snacks or a protein added to anything from omelets to crunchy tlayudas. Though the idea of eating insects may seem frankly disgusting, they are delicious (especially when hot and seasoned just right) and can become quite the addictive snack; besides, they are much healthier than, say, potato chips. For something a little more familiar, Oaxaca is also home to some of the world’s best cheese and chocolate.

Above: Almost every day, Oaxaca’s Church and Convent of Santo Domingo de Guzmán is the scene of enormous weddings and other celebrations that are a sight to behold. Facing page, top: Elaborate designs made up of thousands of sheets of colorful papel picado adorn the streets of el Barrio de Jalatlaco.

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

The mild and salty cheese known around Mexico as Queso Oaxaca is known locally as Quesillo and was recently ranked by TasteAtlas as the best non-Italian cheese in the world. As for chocolate, it’s virtually impossible to go a single block without running into a cafe or stall grinding fresh cocoa beans, which smell divine and are most commonly enjoyed as a hot beverage. Another of Oaxaca’s main draws is mezcal, a distilled alcoholic beverage made from various agaves in a process similar to tequila. Meaning “oven-cooked agave” in the Nahuatl language, Mezcal has become one of Mexico’s most popular liquors. It continues to grow in popularity abroad, with Mezcaleras constantly popping up everywhere from Berlin to Hong Kong. The origins of mezcal date to pre-Hispanic times and was used as a libation as it is today, but it also had an essential role in religious rituals and ceremonies. Though mezcal is now also produced in other states, over 70% of its production is concentrated in the state of Oaxaca. Though large industrial distilleries dot the landscape, so do small artisanal ones, some only producing a couple of hundred bottles yearly. Several varieties of mezcal, including espadín, arroqueño, cirial, and dobadaan, vary significantly in their fermentation, storage and aging process. Locals often describe artisanal mezcal as being “noble” because unlike other strong spirits, it does not cause bad hangovers. But a word to the wise: despite this claim having some truth, don’t test its limits. And varieties infused with CBD and THC have also become common, so don’t cross any international borders with them. Oaxaca has an edge to it. Political manifestations, marches, and clashes with authorities that can become violent are not exactly rare, though it’s uncommon for foreigners or outsiders to be harmed. Oaxaca’s rebellious streak is also visible on just about every street in the form of graffiti and stencils calling out the government for its abuses, especially regarding activism surrounding violence against women. That said, walking around Oaxaca is relatively safe, especially during the day, but venturing out too late after dark is not particularly wise, especially for solo travelers. There is much more to say about Oaxaca, including its fascinating architecture, folklore, markets and musical scene. Visiting the city is easier than ever, with an increasing number of direct flights from Mérida, Cancun, Mexico City and several other spots around the country. 

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Fried grasshoppers, or chapulines, are popular protein snacks often found on tlayudas.

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Amy Jones & Angel Rodriguez 12

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

The Yucatan Collection Marjorie Skouras took inspiration from the palms in her own Mérida patio when designing her latest home furnishings line, the Yucatan Collection. The Bismarkia, a 46-inch-tall mattewhite chandelier, is among the pieces that debuted in April at the High Point Furniture Market, North Carolina. Skouras has partnered with Currey and Company since 2010, during which hundreds of her playful designs have been sold. See her Agave Console on Instagram: @Marjorie_Skouras_Design; @curreyco YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Seen Cross-stitch mural Graffiti artist Datoer — real name Arnold Daniel Cruz Cetina — honored the region’s legendary embroidery technique when he painted a portrait comprising 7,600 “stitches” on a wall in Oxkutzcab. Datoer’s street work has graced public spaces for around 20 years. He grabbed headlines in 2020 when he painted touching portraits of front-line healthcare workers, some of whom perished during the pandemic. They can still be seen along the train tracks at Col. Emiliano Zapata Oriente. Facebook: /datoer

Hungry for Hunan With degrees in both business management and business administration, Abi González toiled for 10 years at a desk job before meeting a woman who would change her career trajectory. “I daydreamed of a time when I could work at something I really enjoyed,” says Abi. But when she quit her job, the pandemic hit, and “I found myself with bills to pay but no job and no job prospects.” Abi, a 36-year-old Mérida native, found herself maintaining rental properties. That led to a fortuitous new relationship with a client who happened to be from Hunan, China. “She told me I needed my own business and offered to teach me how to make authentic Chinese dumplings from her hometown,” Abi says. “She said I could sell them in the Slow Food market.” That is how Meishi Mao (The Gourmet Cat) was born. “My new mentor taught me the importance of quality ingredients, flavor, and presentation. I thought I would never be able to fold dumplings the way she does, but after many, many sessions, I finally earned her approval.” Today, Meishi Mao delivers authentic, original, homemade Chinese dishes — including noodles and ribs. She bottles her own chile sauce, as well. “Seeing people love and appreciate the food I make gives me a lot of satisfaction, and it motivates me to improve and be better at what I do,” she says. Abi González is at the Slow Food market, at the corner of Reforma and Colón in García Ginerés, each Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Find /MeishiMao on Facebook and @meishi.mao on Instagram.

Summer hours Slow Food will be slower without the snowbirds, but the market in García Ginerés remains open all summer. Slow Food is open Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Seen

Basking in the morning sun That’s what Laurel Emery calls this collection of photos taken shortly after sunrise in her Mérida neighborhood. Laurel likes to compose her images in a grid, seeking contrasting and complementing patterns, colors, and forms. See Page 46 for more on Laurel and her husband, painter Ken Perkins.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

COVER STORY

S P A E L

D N A

L.A. celebrity trai ner ‘JJ’ Johnson moved her entire and the rewards h life to Yucatán, ave been bountifu l

TEXT LEE STEELE PHOTO CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

ow did a celebrity trainer like Jennifer “JJ Dancer” Johnson uproot herself from a place like Los Angeles to a place like Mérida? Anyone who’s met JJ knows the answer. Because she willed it. With that much energy, optimism, and infectious drive, JJ gets what JJ works for. And what she’s got is a global brand, Bangin’ Body, which is based in Mérida. A certified personal trainer, vegan activist, and professional dancer/choreographer, JJ is a definite “it girl” of hip-hop dance cardio workouts. Bangin’ Body is not just her workout studio’s name, it’s a one-ofa-kind, cutting-edge fitness program and the culmination of her 30 years of experience as a professional dancer.

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Jennifer Johnson, known to almost everybody as “JJ,” keeps fit and inspires others to do the same. 17

Jennifer “JJ” Johnson stands back as cameraman Irán Sánchez and boxing instructor José Rito Ruacho prepare to film a workout routine for Bangin’ Body. Below, a live class in the same space.

TOP: LEE STEELE OTHERS: COURTESY

She has sculpted the bodies of some of the biggest names in Hollywood. magazines such as Cosmopolitan, People, Self, Shape, and Women’s Health, as well as “Entertainment Tonight” and “E! News” have all featured Jennifer’s fitness program. As a professional dancer and choreographer, JJ has performed and toured the world with artists such as Beyoncé, Pitbull, and Carlos Santana. JJ has also been featured in music videos, national commercials, films, and television shows, including “Dancing with the Stars” and the MTV Video Music Awards. One of her favorite celebrity experiences was training Jessica Alba and choreographing her dance routines for “Sin City 2” and “Dear Eleanor.” She has become location independent while scaling the business. Thanks to her online platform, JJ’s clients are all over the world. Official JJ Dancer / Bangin’ Body trainers are across the United States, Canada, Mexico, Shanghai, Beijing, Taipei, and France. She also has in-person classes in her exclusive red-andblack studio — equal parts workout space and content studio — in the Alcalá Martín neighborhood. It’s a stone’s throw from the Salvador Alvarado stadium, a facility she adores. What’s different in Mérida? Her clients like to emphasize dance in their workout routines, JJ says. That suits JJ just fine because that taps into her roots. JJ has been dancing since she was 4 years old. JJ began her professional career at 8, performing with the Chicago City Ballet and Ruth Paige Ballet. JJ attended Howard University, majoring in psychology. She was the captain of the ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Shape magazine calls JJ one of “Tinseltown’s top trainers.” Now she keeps in top shape while growing her brand in Mérida. Left, JJ pulls no punches with fitness coach José Rito Ruacho.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

COVER STORY NBA Wizards Dance Team throughout her college years. Meanwhile, she also toured with the USO to help entertain troops, and in 2003, moved to Los Angeles to further pursue her career as a dancer. Flash forward to 2020: JJ and her husband, Sam, left Los Angeles for Mérida two months before the pandemic hit. Sam also has a career that allows him to work anywhere there’s Wi-Fi. Shortly thereafter, JJ was inspired to finally create the dance and fitness platform that she had been dreaming of for years — banginbodyonline.com. This led her to build the Bangin’ Body Studio for filming dance and fitness classes as well as continuing to see private clients on Zoom. Once COVID restrictions were lifted, JJ opened the Bangin’ Body Studio to the public, teaching daily dance and fitness classes and sharing her celebrity training secrets with her new community. She added new trainers to the Bangin’ Body Brigade — and expanded into yoga, boxing, HIIT, and dance classes that feature African, hip-hop, and salsa moves. She says the studio has become “somewhat of a community hub” for expats and locals. Engaging further with Yucatán, JJ was also featured in the Mérida Carnaval parade’s first-ever expat contingent, and she’s participated in community events such as International Dance Day and Vegan Fest. Most recently, JJ and Sam have acquired a property in the Centro to facilitate Bangin’ Body retreats. JJ also plans several future health-and-wellness events with Mérida’s City Hall.

A vegan in Mérida Aside from physical activity, JJ personally makes deliberate food choices. “I’ve been a vegan for 15 years. And before that, I was a vegetarian. So I haven’t had meat since 2000,” JJ says. Sites like Happy Cow have helped her find restaurants with vegan options. It’s worked out beautifully. “Even places that aren’t vegan restaurants have vegan options that are so delicious,” JJ says. “The markets have all kinds of beautiful vegetables, beans and quinoa and grains and all kinds of things that I would not have thought I would have liked.” Despite her lean physique, JJ admits, “I eat like a big man!” Since nutritious foods here are abundant, she gets to indulge. Mamey trees in her backyard were a revelation. Avocados are fresh, and the mangoes are “the best I’ve ever had.” Since she’s highly active, every meal has 20

JJ’s go-to vegan spots in Mérida Brunch Muchas Vidas, Calle 49 546, Barrio Santa Ana, Centro Pastries Yvitta Cakes, Calle 42 490b between 57 and 59, Centro Pizza Pizzeria Distrito Vegano, Calle 50 83, Col. Fransisco de Montejo Burger Flamante for Quinoa or Magic Mushroom burgers, 64 and 47, Centro Café Buen Confidente, C. 39 142, Montes de Amé; and Jajajana, Calle 70 490E, Barrio Santiago, Centro

Crush

Fast food Crush, Calle 60 446, Parque Santa Lucia, Centro Lunch delivery Fitorade, fitorade.com

JJ’s go-to markets with great vegan options Mr. Tofu Calle 18 46 at 1H, Col. Mexico Norte

Serves 1

» 1 açaí packet (unsweetened) » ¼ cup spinach » 1 banana » 2 tbsps all-natural peanut butter » ½ cup unsweetened almond milk » ½ cup ice cubes » 2 scoops of plant-based protein powder » 3 tbsps topping of your choice (coconut flakes, cacao nibs, banana slices, chia seeds, berries

Ya’axtal Prolongación Paseo de Montejo, Altabrisa and Temozón, yaaxtal.com Blue Deer Calle 33 294, between 40 and 48, Col. Francisco de Montejo

Bangin’ Body Recipe: Açaí Bowl

Blend all the ingredients except the toppings. Use less liquid to start. The thicker the better.

Ya’axtal

Pour into a bowl once at desired consistency. Add toppings and enjoy like it’s ice cream!

PHOTOS FACEBOOK; GRAPHIC: FREEPIK

protein, especially the açaí bowl — with vegan protein powder, greens, flax seeds, and berries — that helps her start her days. Lunch might be quinoa and beans with sautéed spinach and carrots. A large kale salad at night aids digestion. But she stresses that everyone has different needs and no one diet regime suits

everyone. “As I’ve gotten older, I’ve noticed the thing you have to do is listen to your body,” JJ advises.  Online: banginbodyonline.com Instagram: @banginbodyonline, @iamjjdancer Facebook: /banginbodyonline ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Wellness

Fitness over

Jeff Shaw’s 5 buckets of fitness

» Movement: Exercising regularly and at an intensity that’s right for

you will increase your strength, agility, flexibility, and balance. Even if you can only carve out small pockets of time throughout the day, just a few minutes can make a huge difference.

» Nutrition: Eating the right type of food is the cornerstone of a

healthy lifestyle after 40. Making simple dietary changes can have a dramatic effect on your wellbeing.

» Recovery: Quality sleep is an essential element of a healthy lifestyle after 40. Poor quality or inadequate sleep can lead to health problems, from weight gain and memory loss to an impaired immune system.

» Mindset: Be kind to yourself and know that you’re worth the effort it

It’s not so hard once you find your groove

takes to make positive changes. Building resilience and facing challenges will help you to maintain an optimistic outlook, no matter the circumstance.

» Connection: Maintaining close and meaningful relationships can

improve mental health and longevity. Making strong social connections will keep your body and mind healthy as you get older.

BY JENITA LAWAL

Jeff Shaw

t starts subtly, and then one day, it’s staring you in the face. You’re aging. As youthful and effervescent as you may feel inside, your body needs a different kind of care as you journey 40 and beyond. Forty. It’s the age where you are firmly planted in adulthood and often come to terms with the reality that your lifestyle choices from the last four decades will begin to shape how you age and your long-term physical and mental well-being. Living a healthy lifestyle after 40 means being intentional and diligent with your nutrition, sleep, physical YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

activity, and mental and emotional health. Kimmy Suki, a 40-plus long-time Mérida resident, recalls being careless about her health. “I often jumped on each new fad or diet with zero regard to the effects on my body. Now, I am cautious.” Marina Barreto, a 40-something mother of two living in Mérida, agrees. “I feel like before 40, I had other goals. It was more connected to being fit and looking good, whereas now it is more connected to health, aging better, and being at peace with myself.” Inspired by his own expe-

rience during the pandemic, Jeff Shaw, a certified personal trainer and massage therapist, founded Longevity360. As an Active Lifestyle Habits Coach, he focuses exclusively on clients over 40 who want healthier, more fulfilling lives. “Fast forward 10 years, and think about what you want to be able to do. Then, reverse engineer what you must do to achieve those things,” says Jeff, who works exclusively with clients in this age group. Keeping active and limber helps the body stay in shape and remain strong. By including light aerobic exercise like jogging, cycling, or swimming in their regular routines, people can keep their bodies from deteriorating and make themselves less susceptible to injuries. Movement can also help to prevent falls, as maintaining strength and agility will give a person more balance and better coordination. “One of the biggest things is to find activities that you enjoy doing,” Jeff suggests. Whether that’s playing tennis, golfing, dancing, or going for long walks, he recommends you make fitness fun. “Especially for people who don’t like the general idea of going to a

gym and are turned off by that idea. I don’t have clients who work with me more than three days a week. [They] should be branching off and finding activities to get into.” Stephanie Carmon, who owns MID CityBeat, has found a routine that works for her. “In my 40’s, I started doing pilates and low-impact exercises such as bicycling and walking as my only exercise. I no longer go hard sweating and jumping around,” says Stephanie. “And I’ve noticed that my body stays in great shape. I don’t get hurt; on the contrary, I feel like it’s exercise and physical therapy at the same time.” “Meditation and mindfulness moments have helped me to get in touch with my inner self and keep me in touch with interior fitness,” Marina shares. “The way I keep moving was to find a group of people that always encourage me to continue challenging myself.” “It makes me feel good. I have a better outlook on life,” Stephanie says. “When you can’t control many things in your life, you can control your discipline and healthy habits. That feels good.”  Jeff Shaw online: Longevity360.life 21

Emotional Wellbeing Brian D. Mahan, SEP “No matter where you go, there you are.” — Confucius

Expat happiness factors

t doesn’t matter if the baggage you carry is Louis Vuitton, it still shows up in a U-Haul. Oftentimes, drastic changes bring to the surface our underlying issues that need our attention. You may have left your country of origin, hoping that in a new environment, you could embrace more of your true authentic self. A fresh start in a new land can offer all kinds of opportunities and possibilities for your personal learning, growth, and healing, which, by the way, do not occur within your comfort zone. “Although immigrants come from countries with very different levels of happiness, their reported life evaluations converge towards those of other residents in their new countries,” said Professor John Helliwell at the University of British Columbia and a researcher with The World Happiness Report. “Those who move to happier countries gain, while those who move to less happy countries lose.” Based on the same research over 11

years, “positive relationships keep us happier, healthier, and help us live longer. Period,” write Marc Shultz and Robert Waldinger for CNBC. In 2022, Finland ranked No. 1 in happiness out of 146 countries, while Canada and the U.S. held the 15th and 16th rankings, respectively. France is No. 20, and Mexico came in at 46. So this begs the question: As an expat, how can we increase the likelihood of our happiness in a country with a lower ranking on the happiness scale? As a stress and trauma specialist with a hyper-focus on healing shame, allow me to share with you the fundamental and foundational earmarks of what I call re-tribalization. Humans are, by nature, tribal creatures. We thrive in groups, and we wither in solitude. Think about it; the worst punishment, save the death penalty, that we inflict upon our fellow man is to put them into solitary confinement. We are hardwired neurologically with an instinctual longing for belonging. As infants and young children, we perceive the threat of falling out of favor as a matter of life and death. We will most likely die

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if we are neglected, rejected, abandoned, shunned, or cast out of the tribe. Shame is ubiquitous in the human experience. Shame exists anywhere there is a sense of difference. Shame is used in every culture since the beginning of time to socialize children, form and protect the tribe, establish power, and maintain hierarchy. And we want healthy shame. Without it, we would all be sociopaths and there would be no rule of law. Perhaps an even more nefarious outcome lies in how past shaming experiences inform and form our personalities and, consequently, how we engage with others or withdraw into ourselves. Most of us have experienced the devastating consequences of losing our tribal groups (workplace, school, friend groups, religious communities, and simply sharing time and spaces with others like in restaurants, sporting events, and concerts) during the COVID-19 lockdown. And as restrictions were lifted, we all had the opportunity to call into question with whom and how we want to spend our time. As expats, we face the same double-edged sword. On the one hand, we are

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

strangers in a strange land, and on the the external environment has to reflect the other hand, we must discern which of the internal environment. A chaotic mind is local tribes we want to belong to and how often reflected in a disorganized home. And to be embraced by those tribes. Most will old limiting beliefs will always win even if find a nearly overwhelming you are not aware of them. welcoming into the fold by To increase the likeliBrian D. Mahan is those who have blazed the trail hood of finding your joy and a Somatic Experiencing before us. a sense of trust and safety Practitioner who lives in Expats tend to be commuwithin the tribe, look for Mérida. Brian is a teacher, nity oriented and extremely lecturer, and the author of I evidence of collaboration and helpful to the newer members, Cried All the Way To Happy support for one another. Seek recommending real estate out friends, co-workers, and Hour —What To Do When Self-Help Or Talk Therapy agents, contractors, and neighbors who share common Haven’t Really Helped. He household help, and steering interests and offer a sense specializes in breaking them towards restaurants, of inclusion and meaningful patterns and changing cultural events, and sites to face-to-face interactions. limiting beliefs by healing see. And they are also helpful Engage in purposeful work, shock trauma, developin sharing inherent obstacles volunteer, and behave benevmental trauma, and toxic and potential struggles that olently toward members shame. briandmahan.com we may face while matricuoutside the tribe. Get involved lating into our new environs. in altruism and/or volunteer Too often, humans try to change their to support worthy causes and give back to external environments in an effort to your new community. change their internal environment — the So yes, it is true that no matter where way they think, feel, and consequently you go, there you are. And there is always behave. However, at best, it is only a temthe possibility for growth and personal porary fix. But one universal truth is that transformation. 

Wellness

Putting yourself first Spa-inspired techniques as natural as breathing

TEXT JENITA LAWAL

hen Manola Pérez was an executive at Oxxo, jet-setting around the country and opening new stores, she found spas a great way to de-stress. She loved her job, but it often left her feeling ragged and depleted. Spas offered her a getaway, and a space to relax and be pampered. After five years of corporate life, Manola took the leap into entrepreneurship. She knew a spa would be her venture of choice. At that time, a little over 15 years ago, there weren’t many to choose from in Yucatán. Today, we have more of these services available locally, including the spa Manola founded. In Mérida’s Montecristo neighborhood, The T’ai Spa welcomes guests with wind chimes tinkling in the trees. Open the doors, and sound bowls and soft instrumental music accompany an aroma that lulls visitors into relaxation. “It was hard in the beginning because most places were small and offered just manicures and pedicures. But I wanted something more full service,” says Manola. “I used to travel a lot, so I took inspiration from places around Mexico and the United States.” The T’ai Spa has evolved over the years, and its focus has evolved from pampering to wellness. Looking around at all the women in both her personal and professional circles, Manola noticed that they often put themselves last. “We are always taking care of everybody, and sometimes we put ourselves at the end,” she says. “So, our promise is to take care of you. To bring you on a wellness experience where you put yourself first.” Even something as simple as breathing is included in the wellness experience. Treatments here include an aromatherapy practice of inhaling and exhaling a scented mist the therapist selects for you. The spray itself is refreshing, but the true gift is the moment you breathe. “For me, breathing is the most important thing,” Manola says. “We do it

everyday but without being present. It’s part of our ritual, inhale and exhale to bring you back to your center.” Breathing is essential for life as it supplies oxygen to our body’s cells and helps remove carbon dioxide. When we slow down and become aware of our breathing, several things happen: Breathing exercises can activate the parasympathetic nervous system, which is responsible for promoting relaxation and reducing stress. This can help lower blood pressure, decrease heart rate, and promote an overall sense of calm. Focusing on our breathing can help us become more mindful and present in the moment. This can help reduce feelings of anxiety and promote a sense of well-being. This can also help improve our respiratory function by encouraging deeper and more efficient breathing. From infused oils to treatments centered around honey, local products and ingredients are constantly being testing to help her team tailor wellness experiences. This summer, they offer Sound Resonance Therapy to promote healing and relaxation. By exposing the body to specific sound frequencies, it is believed that we can balance the body’s energy and promote healing. Healing and wellness are at the core of all the services offered. A facial, for example, isn’t just about beauty; it’s about healthy skin. “It’s wellness technology,” Manola says. From infrared light to techniques to improve circulation, treatments such as facials, massages, and sound resonance therapy are a combination of modern innovation and ancient healing practices. To add spa treatments to your wellness practice, Manola recommends trying various things to find what feels right to you. “You need to find your practice, your formula. It can be meditation or maybe a massage, a facial, or a pedicure,” she says. “It’s a path to discovery and finding the right thing that makes you feel more relaxed, more connected with yourself.”  Instagram: @thetaispa ILLUSTRATION: ADOBE STOCK

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Wellness

Massage therapists who make house calls TEXT CLAIRE TYRPAK

nce considered mostly a luxury, massage is now believed to help improve physical and mental well-being. Studies suggest it may improve circulation and flexibility, strengthen immune response, decrease anxiety and depression, lower stress levels, and increase energy. When I retired to Mexico, I wanted to get regular massages and could do so more frequently than in the US because it’s more affordable here. In-home massage is a convenient way to enjoy all the benefits of this service. Massage therapists bring everything needed: a portable table, along with oils, towels, sheets, and music. To enhance the atmosphere, add your own items such as scented candles, incense, low lighting, and perhaps choose your own music for your session. Here are a couple of skilled massage therapists I can recommend:

» Adán Cetina, a Mérida native, has been

Adán Cetina

doing massage for 13 years, with six years running his own business, AC Massage Services. In addition to him, he has seven employees who also provide massages. He does at-home massage and also has a studio in Mérida, not far from Paseo Montejo. Adán provides a wide range of massages: deep tissue, Swedish, relaxing, reflexology, Thai, Shiatsu, sport, Lomi Lomi, and Maya massage. Services are available seven days a week. He can provide group massages simultaneously for up to six people. Before starting AC Massage Services, Cetina offered massages in hotels, Airbnbs, and chiropractic offices around the city. He got into massage from his mother who offered spa services including massage. He also realized it was a better way to make a living than some professions. He originally studied physical therapy, but did not get licensed and moved into massage instead. He studied in Mérida from a school in Guadalajara, where he traveled on a scholarship to continue his training.

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

He worked there, in Mexico City, and Quintana Roo before he settled for good back in Mérida. Cetina says his advantage as a massage therapist is that he is a sensitive person and listens to what customers want or need so he can focus on providing what each person requires. He speaks English and Portuguese in addition to Spanish. When not doing massages, Cetina also sings with two heavy metal bands, Maggots and El Diablo. Massages are 600 pesos for an hour plus the cost of his Uber ride. Book four or five days in advance on facebook.com/AdanCauich or WhatsApp at 999-356-8465.

» Diana Elizabeth Gomez Castellano, who

originally is from Venezuela, has been doing massage in Mérida for almost five years with her business Woods Body & Soul Massage. She originally worked for a spa where she trained for more than a year while doing massage at hotels and Airbnbs. In February 2023, she relocated to Progreso and opened a studio in Hotel La Bobania and does at-home service in Chelem and Chicxulub, and occasionally Mérida.

Gomez says she makes every experience “wonderful and unique” and goes with what each person needs. Beyond this, she also likes to build a strong rapport with clients. She started offering a variety of massages such as Swedish, relaxing, and the deep tissue variety, but has also incorporated acupressure that she customizes for each client, along with breathwork, aromatherapy, and relaxing music, of course. According to Gomez, both Yucatán and massage chose her. She tells me she loves her work, connecting with people and helping them. As a self-described nerd, she researches aromatherapy, massage, and other related topics, and continues to hone her skills by taking online classes. Gomez says what sets her apart is that she is friendly, uses high-quality oils, and tailors her services to her clients. She speaks Spanish and English. Massages range from 500 pesos to 5,000 pesos for packages. Book at least five days in advance on facebook.com/gomezcastellano, Instagram @woods.mx or Whatsapp at 999969-9877. 

Díana Elizabeth Gomez Castellano

PHOTOS: CONTRIBUTED

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Wellness Maize

» Corn, or maize as it’s called

here, was first domesticated in Mesoamerica at least 6,000 years ago. According to Maya myth, mankind itself is made up of this ubiquitous cereal grain which, thanks to a process called nixtamalization, continues to be the primary source of nutrition not just for Mexico and Central America, but for much of the world.

YUCATÁN’S SUPER DUPER SUPERFOODS The Peninsula’s bounty is packed with nutrition TEXT AND PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Melipona honey

Considered among the best in the world, Melipona — the peninsula’s honey — is produced by the i ndustrious Melipona beecheii bee, also known as Xunáan Kaab, which by the way, is also extremely unusual for its lack of a stinger. Melipona honey also contains high levels of antioxidants and is excellent for treating burns. Because Melipona bee colonies produce only three or four liters of honey a year, their yield costs considerably more than other varieties. But is well worth the price.

Pumpkin

Yucatecan pumpkins have been a quintessential staple in the region for thousands of years. Aside from being delicious, calabaza contains high levels of Vitamin C, Vitamin E, iron, and folate — all of which strengthen the immune system. Their seeds are also used to prepare a wide variety of popular dishes and dips, including papadzules and sikil pak.

Local avocado

Though Hass avocados are by far the most popular variety of this delicious fruit, the aguacate Yucateco has many advantages, such as its considerably larger size and a longer shelf life. Though more watery and sweet, they offer many of the same benefits as their more cosmopolitan cousin and are indispensable among locals when it comes to preparing dishes such as frijol con puerco.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Cacao

» For thousands of years, the Maya have

enjoyed brothy cacao beverages and even used its seeds as currency. Today, chocolate — cacao’s most beloved product — is produced artisanally in Yucatán. Antioxidants in dark chocolate have been proven to lower blood pressure and increase blood circulation to the heart.

Chaya

» Also known as Maya spinach, chaya is a

shrub widely used to treat diabetes and kidney failure, but it is also a popular ingredient in soups. It’s also added to omelets and tamales and mixed with rice and beans. When harvesting chaya leaves, it is considered important to first “ask the plant for permission” to avoid being pricked by its tiny thorns.

Dermatology and laser clinic TERSANA! By Dra. Itzel Cerón, clinical, surgical, aesthetic and laser dermatologist Expats and snowbirds are flocking to Calle 66 for one of Mérida’s fastest-growing skin-care clinics: Tersana. One reason is that the dermatologist who founded Tersana, Dra. Itzel Cerón, is armed with the world’s most state-of-theart devices and advanced treatments patients need for both clinical and cosmetic consultations.

their appearance can avoid needles while still stimulating collagen or reducing wrinkles. Often, the best solution is a combination of things. It’s amazing how technology plays into skin care and rejuvenation. As well as areas as disparate as hair growth and cancer screening.

“I absolutely adore Dra. Itzel,” says one New Yorker who has been under her care. “She listens very carefully and addresses my needs scientifically but also compassionately.”

“Our family is growing more and more with the goal of meeting our patients’ needs with the best technology on the market,” says Dra. Cerón. “If you have a problem, we have a laser for that.”

Her recently remodeled clinic, Tersana, is a combination of tersa, which is Spanish for smooth, and sana, which indicates health.

Among the tools on hand at Tersana is the Morpheus8, a microneedling fractional treatment that’s become in demand in Hollywood. There is the Harmony HL Pro for hyperpigmentation and tattoo removal.

And it has it all, from injectables to the latest scanners and lasers. Technology is such that people who want to improve 30

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About Dra. Cerón Dra. Itzel Cerón grew up in the practice. Her father and mother are both doctors, and by the time she was a teenager, Dra. Cerón knew she wanted to follow in their footsteps. Today, they have divided their family-owned building on Calle 66 into distinct practices. Her dad, also a dermatologist, is across the hall on the second floor. Her mom, an obstetrician and gynecologist, is on the ground floor. Dra. Cerón earned her degree in Mexico City, and today she keeps up with the latest advances by continuing her education. She recently returned from Boston where she attended a massive conference for dermatologists. “The education is always on,” Dra. Cerón says.

“ Our family is growing more and more with the goal of meeting our patients’ needs with the best technology on the market. If you have a problem, we have a laser for that.” Dra. Itzel Cerón

And Accent Prime is the state-of-the-art ultrasound / radio frequency technology for body contouring and skin tightening. It’s also effective for post-surgical swelling that’s not subsiding as quickly as expected. There is new technology to treat conditions ranging from rosacea to foot fungus. “We do everything,” Dra. Cerón says. After a summer season, it’s also a good idea to think about a skin check for detecting any medically threatening signs. Yes, there’s a high-tech scanner for that. “Everything is for health, including your well-being,” Dra. Cerón explains. “You feel better if you’re confident in your appearance. We make our patients happy with a new version of themselves.”

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

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Clínica Dermatológica Tersana

Calle 66, 548 between » A65ddress: and 67, Centro, Mérida » Facebook: Clínica Dermatológica Tersana » Instagram: @tersana.dermaceron » Call: 999-924-6653 / 999-243-4311

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Wellness

A tight-knit, multi-generational group is on the move at a neighborhood park

TEXT JENITA LAWAL PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

t’s Saturday morning, and people are arriving, greeting each other with smiles and hugs. Some are making their way to the Parque de la Alemán’s benches to change from shoes into roller skates. Others are donning hats and stretching, preparing their bodies for activity. The faces around the park vary in age, gender, and shades of brown. Their stories are just as varied. They are coming together for the purposes of wellness and community. Walking in a group can have huge benefits for both social and physical health, especially when you bring together people of all ages. After living as a hermit for a good portion of the pandemic, Jessica Johnson started craving connection in a way that was safe for everyone. The 30-something former athlete posted an invitation to join her at a local park to walk, skate, play games, etc. Marci Halili Akoma, who had already started meeting with a small group to walk, asked Jessica if they could join her. Since February 2021, their group of multi-generational walkers and skaters have been meeting at a local park as a means of promoting wellness and community among Black expatriates and immigrants living in and around Mérida. “It’s something I’ve done everywhere we’ve been,” Marci shared, “I was an early member of GirlTrek and was just inspired by the idea of daily walking for health and wellness while encouraging other people to walk with groups.”

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Marci has started or been a part of walking groups in Los Angeles, Vietnam, and Thailand. She started a group in Mérida when she arrived, but participation by others wasn’t consistent until she and Jessica combined efforts and chose a local park as their meeting place. “I didn’t pick up my skates for a while. It wasn’t until I came here that I thought about skating for fun and health,” says Jessica, a former skater with the Texas Roller Girls. After a car accident in 2018, the grueling pace of her professional skating career became hard and painful. Initially, the pandemic meant relief because she could pause, Then she realized it was time to stop skating competitively. “It was kind of this healing process of rediscovering and reinvigorating my love for skating,” Jessica says. She now helps others discover that joy. The only equipment needed are skates and pads. Like walking, you can do it almost anywhere. “For me, walking really elevates my mood … it’s a way to keep my heart healthy and my joints limber … and it’s free,” says Marci. There’s a place for every activity level in the group. Some choose to stroll. Others add in some jogging or speed walking. Skaters can be seen improvising routines or sharing new skills. The sounds of music and laughter mingle with the sounds of the neighborhood around the park, just north of the Centro Histórico. “It’s not so much for the exercise com33

Wellness “I think moving to a foreign country reminds you of the importance of unity.” JESSICA JOHNSON

Mérida’s Parque de la Alemán is for friends on the move. Left, Myshell Curry and Jessica Johnson. Below, Jessica with Marci Halili Akoma. Jessica leads the skate group and Marci leads the walkers.

About the park Constructed in the 1960s along with the rest of the neighborhood, Parque de la Alemán measures a full city block. It features a roller skating rink, a children’s playground, a large esplanade with a musical fountain, green areas, and a stage for cultural events. It lies northeast of the Centro Histórico in the heart of Colonia Miguel Alemán, between Calle 21 and 23a and Calle 24 and 26.

ponent,” Marci chuckles. “Most of us are keeping up with one another and strolling and chatting.” For people over 40, walking is a great activity because it is low-impact and easy on the joints. It can help to improve balance and coordination, strengthen muscles and bones, and reduce stress and anxiety. Walking can also improve cognitive function and help to reduce age-related memory loss. Aside from the many health benefits of walking and skating, those who venture out have made connections and shared vital information about life in Mérida. For adults living abroad, maintaining social connections can be particularly difficult. Whether due to language barriers, cultural differences, or the sense of isolation, one can feel in a new place, it can be difficult to form new relationships and maintain existing ones. “In some ways, it has become the unofficial welcoming committee,” says Jessica. The connections and questions feel less transactional than online within the Facebook groups. People exchange stories and information and often build relationships. “People find their tribe,” Marci adds. “A couple of women went on a trip to Mexico City together. One young lady in her 20s said she was looking for aunties.” Social connections are essential for the well-being of people of all ages, whether they be an adult, young adult, or even a child. Social connections help form meaningful relationships with peers, family, and community that benefit our mental and emotional health. Studies have shown that those who are socially connected are less likely to suffer from depression and anxiety, as well as being more resilient in the face of stressful life events. “I think moving to a foreign country reminds you of the importance of unity,” Jessica says. “When you get here, and you need to figure out how to get water delivered to your house, suddenly you realize how vital community is to help you meet your needs, helping you figure things out. It has been a reminder of let’s meet each other, look each other in the eye and think about ways we can contribute to each other’s lives.” 

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Wellness

The Melipona whisperer of Xcunya

TEXT AND PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

he use of native plants for healing purposes is a part of life for most people in rural Yucatán. If someone gets a bad sunburn, they are likely to go straight to their huerto for some sábila (aloe) or make a beverage with orange blossoms if they are feeling particularly anxious. But also central to traditional Maya medicine in the Yucatán is the use of honey, Melipona honey, to be precise. Aside from being prized for its taste, this amber-colored honey is used widely in the production of medicinal products such as creams, oils, soaps, candles, and chapsticks. When it comes to these marvelous bees, few people know them better than Doña Anselma from the village of Xcunya just to the north of Mérida. “My family has been involved with traditional medicine for generations. I myself only spoke Mayan until my children started school and have always felt a very special connection to this land, our ancestral roots, and of course, my friends, the bees,” Doña Anselma says with a smile. When it comes to caring for her Meliponas, Doña Anselma is adamant about the importance of being extremely gentle with these gentle bees, to whom she enjoys speaking and even singing. “All bees are important, they are a crucial part of our ecosystem. Without them, everything would fall apart. But the Meliponas are especially crucial, they give us so much but also require much love,” she says. After decades of devotion, Doña Anselma is recognized as an authority on their care and therapeutic benefits — and is often asked to speak and offer workshops all over Mexico. Her meliponary at Kuchil Kaab is also a treasure trove of Yucatecan flora, as well as her animal friends, including tortoises with which she also enjoys a good chat. Doña Anselma welcomes visitors, but it’s best to call ahead. 

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Kuchil Kaab

» Address:

Calle 21 between 22 and 24, Hacienda Xcunya, Yucatán

» Instagram:

@Kuchil_Kaab

» Facebook:

/Kuchilkaab

» Whatsapp:

999-228-8656

Wellness The remains of a Maya corbelarched temazcal in Chichén Itzá.

A temazcal at the archaeological site of Joya de Cerén in El Salvador.

A Nahuatlstyle temazcal at Semilla de Luna in Chablekal, Yucatán.

In Mesoamerica’s ancient sweat lodges, the healing heat hasn’t died down

weat lodges are a feature common to many cultures around the world including in Finland, Turkey, and across much of the American continent. In Mesoamerica, the most well-known type of sweat lodge is the temazcal — from the Nahuatl language teme “to bathe” and calli “house.” During Mesoamerican antiquity, temazcales were used as a curative practice to purify the body after a battle or before taking part in a ritual such as the ceremonial ball game, known in Yucatán as pok ta pok. But aside from purification rituals, temazcales were and continue to be used for more therapeutic purposes including dealing with anxiety, respiratory and digestive ailments, and even during childbirth. Temazcales are usually permanent structures that take on a variety of different shapes, likely as the result of local tradition and the construction materials available. In Yucatán, most ancient temazcales, known in Yucatec-Maya as pibnaoob, were constructed out of limestone and are architecturally distinct from their Nahuatl counterparts, sometimes containing multiple chambers and almost always a Maya corbelled arched entrance. But these days, even in Yucatán, the most common type of temazcal in use today follows the traditional Nahuatl design made up of a single domed chamber,

usually built out of mortar or clay bricks. At the center of the dome is a niche for the volcanic piedras abuelas, or grandmother stones, which are heated in a separate furnace until they are glowing red. These are treated with great deference and are often spoken of as if they possessed a will of their own. Within a temazcal or in an adjacent shrine, it’s common to see representations of the four cardinal points, which are associated with colors (clockwise) black, red, green, and yellow or white that respectively represent death, male virility, life, and the power of the feminine — though the exact order and meaning assigned to each color varies among regions. “Temazcales are places of healing, spirituality, and introspection. Through the piedras abuelas we connect with the universe itself and its feminine energy,” says Mónica Simone of the Semilla de Luna holistic center on the outskirts of Chablekal, Yucatán. Before entering a temazcal one is treated with copal incense and recites a brief prayer. The symbolism of this prayer refers to the temazcal as both microcosm of the universe and a womb, capable of creating the heat necessary to both purify and create life. Examples of ancient Temazcales can be found at archaeological

The inside story of the

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Xaman Maricruz tends to the piedras abuelas in preparation for the temazcal ceremony in Mérida.

sites including Chichén Itzá, Oxkintok, Joya de Cerén, Palenque and Monte Albán — though again, the designs differ greatly. But the sweat lodges are not just a relic of the ancient past and are as a matter of fact enjoying a real renaissance, with temazcales popping up at holistic centers and hotels in the countryside and even within Mérida itself. “The temazcal is a sacred place of healing and must be treated as such, while the experience is sometimes a little grueling for some, in the end, it is always powerful and restorative,” says Maricruz of Mérida’s Xaman Wellness Center & Temazcal. 

Mónica Simone prepares opal incense for the purification ceremony required to enter a temazcal in Chablekal.

TEXT AND PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Wellness

Hospitals 101 Amy Jones shares 10 things to know about health care in Mexico 1. Don’t get lost in translation

6. What do they want, blood? Yes!

Seeking help at a hospital anywhere in Mexico can feel intimidating, especially if there is a language barrier. It’s likely you’ll find someone who speaks English if you ask. It may take some time. But it’s worth the wait not to have small details lost in translation. At the very least, use Google Translate and don’t be discouraged from asking questions.

Here’s a concept you may not be familiar with: Resupplying the blood bank. In the event of a blood transfusion, the hospital may ask you to replace what was given to you. Any blood type will do. But don’t worry. Worst-case scenario, you can pay for the blood. Blood is in demand and expensive.

2. Bring your own medical records It takes time to obtain your medical records from back home. So keep your records with you. You’ll be in charge of all your files once you begin seeing doctors, have x-rays and blood tests, etc. The records stay with you and not the doctor on most occasions. Keep them on a flash drive and have hard copies in a binder.

3. Insurance claims

You’ll do well to have an advocate. This could be family, a friend, or private nurse. If they are bilingual, that’s even better. Making decisions while under medication or when coming out of surgery can create unnecessary stress. Likewise, it’s a good idea to have help for a few days after checking out of the hospital, even after simple procedures.

8. Checking out

4. Hospital costs An ER visit runs between US$35 and US$50. Overnight, short, and even long-term stays are also significantly lower. Why? As most foreign insurance companies are not involved, there’s no middleman making money on your health issue. You are dealing with the hospital directly. When in doubt, ask the hospital upfront for their charges.

5. A clinic might be better Clinics offer specializations in areas such as orthopedic, bariatric, cosmetic, urology, LASIK, and even cancer treatment. And it may cost less than in a hospital. Ask your doctor to explore both options. You may also feel more comfortable in a clinic’s smaller setting, which can be similar to U.S. outpatient surgery facilities.

Have you been discharged? Not so fast! To get sprung from the hospital, you are expected to pay your bill in full even if there’s an insurance claim. Keep receipts for your insurance company.

9. Mexican doctors rock

» Texas native

Amy Jones is an expert in expat retirement and health care in Yucatán. Learn more about her services at lifeinmerida.com.

Lifeinmerida.com conducted a survey of 100 expats, asking if they preferred an English-speaking Mexican doctor vs. a U.S. doctor. They unanimously agreed they prefer the Mexican doctor. Why? Patients said they didn’t feel hurried. They had more confidence the doctor cared about their well-being. They tended to be kind, informative, thorough, and knowledgeable. And most of the time, the doctor even shared their personal phone number in case there were additional questions.

10. Medical tourism is here Mérida is rapidly becoming a destination for foreigners who need hip and knee replacements, cosmetic surgery, dental needs, and ophthalmology. While affordability is always at the top of the list, Mérida also offers gastronomy, history, culture, and exciting day trips as a great way to recuperate from medical procedures. Additionally, there’s something about being in a beautiful location that speeds up the healing process. Concierge services are available to manage logistics, procedures, and aftercare. 

GRAPHIC: FREEPIX

Hospitals in Mexico do not perform medical coding for foreign insurance. If a claim is not properly coded, the hospital is not paid. Sometimes, foreign insurance is accepted. Other times, the patient is required to pay out of pocket, then submit invoices and hope for reimbursement. A hospital might verify your coverage ahead of time so there aren’t any surprises.

7. Phone a friend or hire a private nurse

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Professional Profile

Prostasur: Robotically assisted prostate cancer surgery comes to Yucatán DR. ROBERTO GARCÍA CARILLO

echnology plays a huge role in daily life, and health care is no exception. For prostate cancer patients, robotically assisted surgery is one such example. When a patient is diagnosed with prostate cancer, it is normal to feel a wave of feelings such as denial, anger, and depression. But once acceptance is achieved, the only goal for the patient and their loved ones is to seek out the best treatment. It would be wonderful to know which patients’ cancer will spread and whose won’t, thus avoiding unnecessary interventions. During my research residence at Imperial College London, I witnessed impressive research focused on uncovering the markers that could give us such insights, allowing us to make better decisions.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

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Professional Profile

However, as of yet, these techniques are not entirely reliable. Therefore, surgery continues to play a fundamental role in the treatment of virtually all prostate cancer patients. The good news is that robotically assisted surgery has made enormous strides in both efficacy and precision in the operating room. In Mexico, there are only a few urologists who have the training, accreditation, and experience necessary for working with this kind of advanced technology. While it’s true that robotic surgery is fairly common in the United States, it is often cost prohibitive, especially for those without sufficient insurance. However, these same procedures are now available in Mexico for patients seeking out a more cost-effective alternative. I recall the first time I saw this technology in action while in France. I was amazed to see the surgeon operating from a console with a degree of precision only possible through the use of robotics. I knew right away that I wanted to bring this treatment to my home country, though the road to achieving the necessary certifications View a would not be an easy one. After completing my training in robotic video surgery in the United States, I had the privilege to become the first from Prostasur specialist to perform robotically assisted prostate cancer surgery in southeastern Mexico. for more As technology has continued to improve, so have the outcomes. on the But it’s important to remember that at the end of the day, this procedure. technology is but a tool in the hands of a highly trained specialist. Despite the usefulness of technology, it is imperative to never leave out the human factor and the certainty that comes with trusting the deep ethical commitment of the “person behind the machine.” These days all professions depend more and more on the use of technology, but it’s important to never lose sight of the human element and its desire to do good.  40

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About the author

» Dr. Roberto García Carillo is a surgeon

certified in urology by the Mexican Council of Urology, with certifications in robotic surgery from Sunnyvale, California, and a specialization in endoscopic robotic surgery from Mexico’s National University. Dr. García Carillo runs a private practice in Mérida, Yucatán, and performs robotic surgeries in Mexico City. He offers virtual and in-person consultations to patients across Mexico, the United States, and Canada. He is currently the director of Prostasur, the only clinic in southeastern Mexico exclusively specialized in treating the urological needs of men. 999-279-0201; info@prostasur.mx Facebook: Prostasur Mérida - Urólogos en Mérida Web: www.prostasur.mx

» » »

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ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

By the numbers Lot size: 8.8 meters wide by 77 meters deep Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4.5

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

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Luxury Listing

To the manor born

n the market is a dreamy and magnificent 8,000-square-foot French Colonial Art Nouveau mansion in Mérida’s most desirable neighborhood. It is a five-minute drive from the historic downtown, shopping, hotels, and restaurants and just 15 minutes from all Mérida’s north offers. This romantic property is a lush and airy oasis with five bedrooms and six full bathrooms. Built in 1915, it occupies a 1,770-square-meter lot —a quarter of a block —in García Ginerés. This residence was meticulously restored and fully renovated in 2018, including all plumbing and electrical systems. It is accented with Murano and Kelly Wearstler lighting and Franz Veigner bath fixtures. Stunning original pasta tile floors and French doors complement the soaring archways and 20-foot ceilings. The ground floor features a formal living and a dining room, which open onto a separate terrace. There is a luxurious master suite comprised of a bedroom and

bathroom, dressing room and den, with wall-to-wall Italian statuary marble floors in the bathroom and silver-plate hardware. Separate from the main house and across a covered breezeway are two kitchens, a service room, and a laundry room. The main kitchen boasts an original canopy with an indoor gas grill. In contrast, the service kitchen features stainless-steel countertops, a six-burner stove, and a bank of refrigerators for plenty of cold storage. The upper story is reached by a terrazzo

See the video and get more info at yucatanhomesandlots.com, Property Code 3052 SPONSORED CONTENT

floating staircase and is surrounded on three sides by tiled exterior terraces with dramatic views of the property. Guests retire to the spacious tiled ensuite bathrooms featuring Italian statuary marble sinks. Alongside a flowering pergola with dining and seating areas, a new 50-foot filtered lap pool beckons. The home is surrounded on all four sides by mature gardens, including an orange orchard and raised aqua garden designed for growing vegetables year-round. Mandarin, sour orange, banana, and tamarind trees abound. Parking includes a garage for two vehicles and additional on-street parking for guests. This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to own one of the rarest legacy properties in the Yucatan. This home is offered at US$2,300,000 by Yucatán Homes and Lots. Contact Yury Di Pasquale at 999-947-2559 or yury@yucatanhomesandlots.com for more information. ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Framed | Ken Perkins

The king of color is at home

TEXT AND PHOTOS LEE STEELE

inally, after a career framing and crating other artists’ work, Ken Perkins can focus on his own canvases. The New Yorker has lived in Mérida for 15 years with his wife, Laurel Emery, a retired Madison Avenue art director. The son of a pair of artists, Perkins has painted since he was 15, and studied at the School of Visual Arts, later participating in group shows but not being as prolific as he’d hoped “because, you know, you have to work.” Part of his art education, however, was the intimacy he enjoyed with the artwork that was seldom, if ever, seen in public. He worked with private collectors and, at one point, was at Andy Warhol’s studio on a daily basis. Not until he moved to Yucatán was Perkins able to devote enough time to his own art. Perkins built a roomy studio in a rear casita nestled amid trees and plants that represent his other creative outlet. The Perkins-Emery home in Col. EspeYUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 9

Framed | Ken Perkins Ken Perkins and Laurel Emery relax with some of their rescue dogs at their home in Mérida’s Esperanza neighborhood. Below, a casita out back houses Perkins’ art studio.

(Continued from previous page) ranza is private and quiet, just the place for artists. It’s also great for animal lovers, which they are. Five leggy rescue dogs — three brought down from New York — have the run of the house. The walls of the sala off the front entrance are filled with Perkins’ colorful abstracts, among other pieces, including an enormous David Trubridge bamboo pendant lamp hanging from the high ceiling. Layers of overlapping color fill Perkins’ canvases, where abstract shapes appear to recede and move forward, forming patterns and implying movement. “I always had a thing for color,” Perkins says, recalling when he traded Manhattan’s brown-and-gray color scape for Yucatán’s vibrant hues. “When we moved down here, it was inspirational.” “Being here in Mérida, you can walk out on the street, and all you see is color,” says

Perkins. “And patterns!” Emery interjects. Emery, who worked for advertising giant Ogilvy & Mather, is a sounding board for Perkins, but shakes her head when asked if they collaborate. “Well, we advise each other,” Emery allows. The creative process is “never-ending,” Perkins says, “because each painting is different and you’re trying to achieve something with one painting, and sometimes I have to go to the next one.” His paintings take on a life of their own. “There’s a whole conversation that goes on between me and the painting. And the painting is telling me what’s going on,” Perkins explains when asked how he knows when each work is completed. The challenge of working out abstract compositions turns out to be mentally soothing as well. “It’s very therapeutic,” Perkins says. And it’s not his only outlet. Asked what he’d do if he didn’t paint, he looked around at his lush, verdant property. “Garden,” Perkins replies. “Garden, yeah.” His wife concurs. “He’s a very good gardener. He’s got a natural garden talent,” says Emery. “I think he got it from his mother, who was English.” The palms and climbing vines give shade while adding a sense of tranquility and solitude. A recent art studio tour put Perkins in the spotlight for a few hours, but he admits it’s hard being the center of attention. “I just want to do my art,” Perkins says. Instagram: @kapfineart10

ISSUE 9 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

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Yucatán Magazine / Issue 9 / The Wellness Issue

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