yucatanmagazine.com
The pleasures of the pueblo Introducing the Chenes Route What’s so great about living in García Ginerés
Living large in a downtown mansion, on a sprawling ranch, or in a grand hacienda ... like this one
Wide-Open Spaces
No. 7
» A New Home
» Culture &
Traditions
» Health &
Wellbeing
Make a Mindful Move to Mexico See Yucatán through the eyes of its insiders and explore our culture, customs and everyday life. PRODUCED IN COOPERATION WITH
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Yucatán Relocation Workshop relocationworkshop.com
Enrich the next stage of your life. Our Relocation Workshops begin with a tour of Mérida’s most
{ R E L O Cdistinctive A T I neighborhoods. O N W OOverRthe K ensuing SHO Pdays, } local experts and long-time internathree tional residents will share their own experiences about day-to-day living in Mexico, and give their take on the culture and traditions that drew them specifically to Yucatán. We’ll tour city
A Mindful Move to Mexico
and beach properties, then go on an excursion to an ancient Maya city and the adjacent rural community. There, we’ll immerse in millennia-old traditions and enjoy a meal. Each workshop is capped at 20 attendees, ensuring an intimate, rewarding and easygoing experience for all.
$595 (USD) per person including tours and meals.
3 WEEKENDS TO CHOOSE FROM IN 2023
JANUARY 6-8
FEBRUARY 3-5
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Space is limited! Learn more about what we have planned and claim your spot at relocationworkshop.com
índice Director Lee Steele lee@roofcatmedia.com Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht carlosrosado@roofcatmedia.com Marketing Yesica Benitez yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com Editorial Consultant Pablo Arroyo Díaz Creative Consultant Eduardo Vázquez
4 Editorial: Do I need to wear shoes? 6 Just Asking 7 Ask a Yucateca: The dating scene 8 First Person: Pueblo living has its pleasures 9 Seen: YouTube star comes knocking, Buen Vida seeks stylish cats, beachy café
12 Expat profile: When one cenote isn’t enough 15 Books: Afterlives, The Last Cuentista 18 En las Calles: Centro-adjacent García Ginerés 19 Getaways: The Chenes Route 22 Food & Drink: Whisky, chaya and Asian cuisine
Circulation Alejandro Pinto Tolosa ADDITIONAL CONTRIBUTORS Yesica Benitez Hannah Hudson Juanita Stein Claire Tyrpak Eduardo Vázquez Subscriptions subscriptions.yucatanmagazine.com Advertising & General Information info@roofcatmedia.com COVER PHOTO: CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT
COVER STORY
25 Yucatán at Home: Living Large A rustic hacienda, a glamorous casona and a quirky quinta
41 Yucatán Homes & Land
Rare find: A lovely detached home with a 2-car garage Pro Tip: Beginning the property research process
47 Marketplace 48 Framed: Emilio Salazar Touché
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AÑO 2, NÚMERO 7 Todos los derechos reservados por Roof Cat Media S de RL de CV, Calle 84, 278 x 59C y 59D Fraccionamiento Las Américas, Mérida, Yucatán, CP 97302. Prohibida la reproducción total o parcial del contenido sin autorización previa y por escrito de los editores. La revista asume que el material aquí presentado es original y no infringe derechos reservados de ley. Reserva de derechos de uso exclusivo del título. Yucatán Magazine no se hace responsable por el contenido de sus anunciantes. PRINTED IN YUCATÁN, MEXICO
YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 7
3 PHOTO: CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT
Editorial
Do I have to wear shoes?
I
don’t recognize my life from five years ago. Back then, our Mérida house was built, but I just couldn’t get to see it much without requesting vacation time from my boss, and then negotiating time to work from home, a concept that was still considered unusual in 2017. We had the technology, but my bosses wanted to see me tapping away on the keyboard on-site. I lived in the icy northeast United States. Around this time of year, I’d be savoring what few days remained where I didn’t need a hat and scarf. Proper shoes were the norm. With socks underneath, if memory serves. A few days ago I went to a dressy occasion — which is more common these days in Mérida than it used to be — and I could barely tolerate my soft, leather loafers. Even my Velcro sandals feel confining these days. It’s funny because in the States I hardly ever wore flip-flops, and now I practically live in them. How I finally broke free from all that and made it here full-time, while still in my mid-50s, is a story for another day. But I finally did, gambling everything I ever worked for — my relationships, my finances, and my career. So here I am, and life speeds along even as I slow down. The city is changing rapidly, not necessarily the way I expected, but not in an entirely disagreeable way, either. My partner and I didn’t come here for fine dining — travel stories would describe the Mérida food scene as best experienced in a private home. Today, we have fancy restaurants, and fancy prices, across the city, mainly in the north. To enter some of them, I will need to buy fancy
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clothes at the fancy new malls. I find it odd, but then again, I was so happy that day when I found a nice Gap shirt at the Liverpool. So I shouldn’t complain. One of the biggest conveniences these days started when Amazon built that big warehouse and logistics center in Umán. Shopping was tough without a car, but now I’m buying everyday products for the kitchen, office, or closet, sometimes delivered on the same day. That used to require many fruitless shopping expeditions at Walmart or Sears. Now it’s like, “ding dong!” Oh, that must be my underwear. We would have had a hard time equipping our new Roof Cat photo studio in Las Américas without Amazon. Not everyone comes here to unwind while stretching their Social Security checks. Younger people from abroad are raising families and keeping their jobs. They are practical. They just want to live a normal middle-class 21st-century existence. Rich cultural experiences await them when they’re ready. Meantime, Mérida and the rest of Yucatán remain a welcoming place for everyone who appreciates it.
Lee Steele Director, Yucatán Magazine lee@roofcatmedia.com
ISSUE 7 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
Just Asking Question posed on Facebook.com/yucatanmagazine: Are you planning to remain in Yucatán in the coming years, or go elsewhere? Why? Most said “yes” to the first half of the question. But for some, it’s complicated.
“We’re staying. We gotta be somewhere, it’s as good as anyplace else and better than most.”
“Yes, I am staying. After 22 years this is my home.”
“ Staying in Yucatán but leaving Mérida.” “ I would move if I were younger, but life is still good here. So it is ok.” “ Our place is for sale because we want to travel more! We will return though, and rent!” “ We lived here for 12 years but left for five for family reasons. Moved back for good in August. Staying put!” “ Staying. It took me many years to be able to make this move and I love Mérida. There’s so much culture, the people are amazing, and so is the food. We vibe. I have no interest in moving back to the U.S.”
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“Staying. It checks all my boxes except mosquitoes.”
“We’re considering our options as the state changes.”
“Going back to the USA to be closer to children and grandchildren as we age, but we love Mérida and our amazing friends there.”
“Not sure if I have another move in me but the heat is working on me. Still looking…”
“ Intend on returning yearly as long as we can. It’s lovely and pleasant…” “ Guanajuato — better weather.” “ We are here permanently ... Yucatán is home now.” “ If Lula wins back the presidency in Brazil, I’ll move back to Salvador Bahia. It has a similar vibe to Mérida but at the sea. I have a little house there at the beach.” “ Why move anywhere else?”
“I’m staying for as long as they will have me.”
“ Retiring in four years and plan to stay here full-time!” “ Been here 24 years, don’t see any reason to move now.” (Some answers edited for clarity or brevity)
ISSUE 7 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
Ask a Yucateca Yesica Benitez
Get ready to mingle
D
ating someone from a different culture always presents several challenges, but also rewards. Yucatecans as a whole are rather socially conservative, but this does not mean that we are not open to new experiences and points of view. Yucatecan women appreciate gallantry in a gentleman. But don’t be misled by that. Yucatecan women are also independent and self-empowered. Also, keep in mind that Yucatecan men tend to be fairly gallant, though at times can also be quite machista. That being said, let’s talk about dating.
Q:
Where is a good place for a first date?
A: The best option for a first date is a place where you can talk, a coffee shop or even a nice bar is always a good choice. Mérida has quite a good amount of beautiful places to choose from. My favorites? Hotel Casa San Angel, Manjar Blanco, Casa Chica, and Cafetería Pop are all in Centro, so why not take a nice walk along the Paseo de Montejo to get to know each other better? For other occasions, a nice pizza place for dinner, a cantina any afternoon, or even a baseball game is perfect for enjoying each others’ company.
that aforementioned walk down the Paseo Montejo after dinner? Q: How can I feel and stay safe? A: Always tell somebody you trust know where you are and who are you with. Personally, I encourage everyone to use their phone to share their live location information and always meet in public places. Mérida is the safest city in all of Mexico, but your own safety is also a personal responsibility.
Don't do this, do that
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Please, don’t assume. Ask before you do anything. ever talk smack about Yucatán in front of a Yucatecan. Believe N me, I have known people who do that, and is far beyond being annoying. It’s insulting. Be punctual. That shows you care about and respect your date. e gallant, speak intelligently, and respect your companion’s perB sonal space.
Q: What should I wear?
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A: As I have said before, taking care of our image sends a powerful message. So, whenever you don’t know what to wear, think about what message you want to send about yourself. Also, keep in mind that comfortable shoes are always important. What if your date wants to take
Kanasín native Yesica Benitez is more than happy to explain the realities of local culture and make recommendations for bewildered expats. No holds barred. Email yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com.
YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 7
emember that the line between being chivalrous and arrogant is R very thin. So, good luck with that.
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First Person Chris Strickling
Life in a pueblo has its charms
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traveled from my home in Fort Worth, Texas, to a dusty pueblo near Nuevo Laredo, Mexico, in 1967. I was 15. The youth counselor from our church drove four other teenagers and me to the border for a good cause. We would join the adults in this small town to finally finish the construction of a schoolhouse for the children of the community. I don’t remember the name of the town, but I can’t forget the limited access to water, food, and electricity. Housing was basic. The low wages and disregard for their rights made it difficult for the workers to stay in these jobs, but they had nowhere else to go. During our four-day stay, we carried concrete blocks and buckets of water, small mixed batches of concrete, and did anything we could do. The adults fed us from their simple, private kitchens and we slept in their homes on makeshift beds. Their children taught us games. Everyone showed pride in their accomplishment and gratitude for our help when the school building was finally finished. We did it together, enduring the hottest sun I have ever experienced. That trip made me realize what “culture” means and how privilege works. I returned to my middle-class life with a new respect for those workers and the children I met, in awe of their stamina and goodwill toward us. I learned Spanish in high school and college and traveled to Mexico as much as I could for more than 20 years. I escaped to Oaxaca in 2005 to deal with the trainwreck of a life I’d built for myself. It was the right thing to do. Living in an environment where nobody knew me, enjoying the art, the cuisine, strolling in the zocalo, and visiting the Cathedral helped me get back on my feet. I knew then that I would live in Mexico. By early 2013, retirement became my goal. I wanted a quiet life, a space dedicated to writing, and a chance to go a little crazy on gardening. When a friend offered me the chance to build a home on his property in Izamal, I didn’t waste any time. Settling into Izamal was never a decision between city or pueblo for me. It was a free fall into a quieter
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CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT / YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
and slower lifestyle that I needed, one that beach, the safety, the language, and culture I could financially sustain. I’m an amateur of the Yucatán. They settled first in Mérida gardener. Yucatán has blessed me with new September 2019, in García Ginerés. plants without cursing my ignorance. My “The neighborhood was beautiful, but I large Izamal property thrives because I have kept feeling that I needed to see more than a jardinero to help me, and I exchange plants nice swimming pools and tall walls. I can’t with my neighbors. I’m a writer. The stacked stand having the walls!” stone walls around my home keep things When they left García Ginerés and quiet. I have frequent conversations with my rented a small house in Chelem for two neighbors, in Spanish, I argue months, they soon discovered with CFE, and distribute mangos “ I miss the that the beach life wasn’t for and mamey in season. I have them, either. They had not cultural almost learned to like the music counted on how much energy it experience takes to deal with the sand and that roars out of my neighbor’s house at night. The mercado realized that the heat and sand, a city has bounced back from the together, had already started to offers, but pandemic, new restaurants have damage furniture. it doesn’t arrived. We have an art gallery! Soon, they began looking for After nine years of residency, an undeveloped property that move me no robbery, no property damage they could shape for themselves. to leave the Izamal offered wide open spaces from neighbors. I’m set to live here, happily, as long as I want to. that they could develop as pueblo.” I miss the cultural experience they please, a complex culture, a city offers, but it doesn’t move me to leave and opportunities to learn new languages the pueblo. Maybe the longing for a big city (Spanish and Mayan) and customs. Debis about scratching that itch. It seems to me orah has the freedom to choose what she that those of us who choose to live in pueblos sees every day. They found what they were have a different itch. looking for. That’s the case for Deborah Kawabata “I’m not done living, and I’m not done and her husband, Hidetaro. They met in learning,” Deborah insists. Japan, married, and raised two children I couldn’t agree more! there. The third was born in Canada, Deborah’s homeland. They sojourned in Bali, Raised in Texas, Chris Strickling lives Izamal where they spent their honeymoon, for six in a house she designed and built in 2013. Chris months after their children left home. Debis most at home when she’s riding her bike in the orah researched Mérida during their stay. early morning, cooking dinner for friends, or She was drawn to Mérida’s proximity to the writing the next short story that beckons her. ISSUE 7 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
Scaling the wall For years, the narrative was that only foreigners are interested in Centro homes. Sticking a fork in that one is Roger Góngora and his team at Trasmuro — or, Behind the Wall. Their witty, quick-paced YouTube videos present some of Mérida’s most interesting new builds and renovations to a Spanish-speaking audience. In a year, the channel has built an audience of nearly 200,000 subscribers. Our favorite is when the charming host uses his own slim shoulders as a unit of measure, standing in front of a post and declaring it “one Roger wide.” His observations are endless and enlightening as he delves into each home’s construction, amenities, and, the property’s history. The homes not necessarily for sale, because they’re probably not — they’re just really interesting homes. And for viewers still learning Spanish, Roger’s humor is not lost — many of his videos have subtitles. Facebook, YouTube: @trasmuro
YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 7
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Seen
Beachy beans This old thing? Mexican clothing brand Cecilia México sees fashion potential in your broom closet, or wherever you keep your cleaning rags. Jergas, as they’re called, are those iconic little rectangle cloths that sop up the rain water when your skylight leaks for the hundredth time. As a poncho or hoodie, the cloth has been worn for years by surfer dudes on the Pacific coast. But this is the first time we’ve seen a Jerga miniskirt. It was a social media sensation for a hot minute. @cecilia.mexico
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We’re tripping over cafés in the Centro (see the “What’s New” café section in Issue 6) but we’re betting the beach could use more coffee shops like this one. Coastal Coffee, which opened in Chelem during a very trying 2021, is owned by Benjamin Solis, who’s from Progreso; Guerrero native José Gallian, and Betsy Mahoney, who hails from Oregon. Betsy tells us that iced coffee is very popular, as are burgers and fries. As if that’s not a broad enough offering, Coastal Coffee also sells home décor. “My clients love being able to just stop by and pick up a gift or buy something new for their house,” Betsy says. Calle 21 and 22, Chelem. @coastalcoffeechelem
Creature comforts A standout among all the countless vendors at Mérida’s outdoor bazaars is Buen Vida, which crafts strikingly well-designed toys, beds and towers for the cats in your life. They are tasteful, attractive and emphasize natural materials. The craftsman, Raj Singh, previously lived in England, India, Burma and Canada. A software engineer by trade, Raj still run a couple of tech businesses in Canada in the medical and agricultural fields. “I have never built anything with my hands before. I haven’t owned any cats either. I am at the stage of my life where some people either buy a Harley or a Mazda Miata. I decided to get a couple of cats and start building things,” Raj explains. “We also have products for lighting and home décor but the cat business
keeps us run off our feet.” Look for his table at Parque Santa Ana, Parque San Juanistas in Col. Campestre or at Expo de Mascotas — the Pet Expo — in the Siglo XXI convention center on Dec. 11. @buenvida_mexico
ISSUE 7 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
Seen
Signs of the times From Santa Lucía park to the Prolongación, we’re seeing a beer promotion that’s unusually aggressive for a city that’s normally pretty picky about signage. All around are plastic letters spelling out a famous beer brand, some so big you can sit on them. The biggest sign was lugged up on a second-floor roof, letter by letter (plus the big star shape), then removed, then taken up a second time. The Dutch brewing company behind the brand, which rhymes with Leineken, is pushing hard to expand in Mexico. Earlier this year, they expanded their operations with a US$90 million plant in the country’s north. And with this campaign, they’re firing salvos at the mighty Modelo brand, which has a massive modern plant in Hunucmá.
aid we p s Yes, s e p o 289 opy. c a r fo
YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
Watch for falling houses Scooped! When Chuch Estudio made the cover of Dwell, we were both excited and bummed out. Excited that a Mérida designer was getting such excellent exposure in a U.S. shelter magazine, and annoyed that they beat us to the punch. Architect (and a Dwell “Rising Star”) Aranza García sells home goods, furniture, lighting, and textiles from local artisans. Of course, Dwell features the work of many creative expats in Yucatán. @chuch_estudio
YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 7
Why do we keep seeing abandoned homes falling down in the Centro? More than 200 properties in Mérida’s Centro are severely structurally unstable, according to Yucatán’s civil protection unit. Unlike in other countries, the government is reluctant to take over a blighted property until it has actually collapsed and poses a danger. Bureaucracy is another culprit. Renovations in the historic section are often held up by red tape, which is more than whatever’s literally holding up the buildings. “Of course, there needs to be an oversight to protect cultural heritage, but their bureaucracy often makes it way more difficult than it need to be,” says a source who works at INAH, the agency in charge of historic preservation. 11
Food & Drink
Drink your corn ... TEXT AND PHOTO LEE STEELE
I
n the land of corn, why not whisky? The land of tequila and mezcal isn’t known for whisky, but that could change. In under a decade, the rise in heirloom corn production has given birth to a handful of boutique distillers in Mexico on a drive for recognition. The domestic whisky market is ascendent where whisky sales are second only to tequila, although so far Mexico is drinking mainly expensive imports, Johnnie Walker Scotch whisky — distilled from grains — in particular. Abasolo, the biggest Mexican brand, comes from tiny Jilotepec in the State of Mexico. Its whiskey (spelled with the e) is derived from heirloom Cacahuazintle corn cooked via nixtamalization, a 4,000-year-old alkaline-cooking process first used by Aztecs and Maya. Today, the process is employed to make tortillas, but Abasolo was the first to apply it to distilling spirits in 2019. Sierra Norte Single Barrel Whiskey, made with black corn from Oaxaca, is aged in wood to produce buttery, caramel-like vanilla flavors. Revés Whisky comes from Ensenada and would be agreeable to any Johnnie Walker diehard. Revés Black (MX$990 at La Botelleria) is aged for three years in new American oak barrels, then aged for six months in Mezcal barrels from Oaxaca for a pleasing and lingering smoky finish. The distillery was founded by Hans Backoff
Tama Shoduko
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Revés Whisky Black was introduced to me at Bird. Bottles of the brand are sold across the street at La Botelleria on Calle 56 and 53 in Mérida’s Centro Histórico.
of the Monte Xanic winery in Baja California. “When you think about whisky as a corn based spirit you must ask yourself, ‘who grows the best corn in the world?’ The answer is crystal clear, Mexico!” says Sean Sant Amour, proprietor of La Botelleria, which is on the corner of Calle 56 at 53 in Santa Lucía — and across from Bird, where we sampled Revés Black. “Not only the best tasting corn but non-GMO corn with the most integrity.” Heirloom origen maiz has approximately 20% more protein than corn produced outside Mexico. Protein is only one example of a component that can be measured, but there are so many intangible components that create an exceptionally unique Mexican flavor profile, says Sean. “The soil that gave birth to corn is here and that translates directly to a specific depth
of flavor and character in the whiskies of Mexico,” he says. For your consideration, here’s a winter-themed cocktail we served at our holiday party last year.
Apple Cider Whisky Cocktail Courtesy Sommelier Express, 1 glass Cider pairs perfectly with Mexican whisky. It’s got a hint of lemon and a surprise ingredient that rounds out the flavors into a meld that’s intriguing, complex, and highly drinkable. “Many of my cocktail recipes are based on standard great cocktails recipes that have stood the test of time, like the whisky sour or Manhattan,” mixologist Fernando Almazan explains. “My goal here was simple: create a drink that’s interesting and complex, not too
Choga Seoul
ISSUE 7 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
sweet, that highlights apple cider, and gives the drinker all the cozy feelings of the season.” Sweet vermouth is standard in the everyday liquor cabinet, and it’s the secret ingredient here. You’ll use it for everything from a Manhattan to a Negroni. It’s a little unexpected in an apple cider cocktail, but it adds just the right complexity. It’s both dry and sweet at once and rounds out each sip. You’ll taste the apple cider on the front end, the vermouth in the middle and the whisky on the back end.
spring, when the weather warms up. It loves the sun, humidity and heat. No wonder it’s so abundant here. First, stick cuttings instead of seeds in a starter pot. Just make sure you’ve planted the root end into the soil. Any garden soil or planting mix will satisfy this easily satisfied plant. When you have big, healthy leaves, it’s time to consider cooking them. Never eat them raw. Their leaves actually contain cyanide, but the toxins are removed after 20 minutes in boiling water. Also, avoid aluminum pots, which react with the juice of the plant, possibly resulting in digestive problems. Chaya is nutrient-dense. In a 100-gram serving of chaya, there are up to 7.4 grams of protein, 330 mg of calcium, 11.4 mg of iron, 1357 IU of Vitamin A, and 205 mg of Vitamin C. Not to be used as a salad green, chaya is best in soups, tamales, and eggs. And of course, agua de chaya, with or without some pineapple and orange juice, is a healthy and refreshing drink. Here’s the recipe:
Ingredients 3 Oz Sparkling apple cider 3 oz
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1 Oz Whisky (Mexican) 1 oz ½ Oz Sweet red vermouth ¼ Oz Lime juice 5 drops Angostura bitters
1. Stir together all ingredients into a cocktail mixing glass. Forget James Bond. This is a classic “stirred” cocktail where the bartender stirs the ingredients together instead of shaking them. Shaking dilutes the drink with ice, which would water it down too much. 2. Strain and garnish. Strain the drink into a stemmed cocktail glass. You can also get away with this drink in an old fashion glass if you’d like. Note that it’s meant to be served without ice as we continue to resist diluting the liquor 3. Garnish with apple slices. Cut apple slices can start to brown when exposed to air. To combat this, spritz them with a little acid: lemon juice is perfect. (Plus, you already have a lemon open.)
Agua de Chaya
PHOTO: ERSTEN IMAOKA VIA FLICKR
1 serving
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... and your chaya, too
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haya is to Yucatán like maple is to Vermont. And you can grow this nutritious leafy green in your own garden. Plan to start your Chaya patch in the
1 Cup fresh orange juice 1 Cup chaya leaves, chopped 2 Cups water 2 Cups ice cubes
Add the first four ingredients into a blender and puree until smooth. Pour over ice, and maybe take advantage of our famous Yucatecan honey to make it sweeter. — Lee Steele
More cooking and entertaining ideas at yucatanmagazine.com/tag/recipes
Email: sommelierexpress@live.com
Head north, think east Checking out the Japanese food at Tama Shokudo and Choga Seoul’s Korean cuisine TEXT AND PHOTOS EDUARDO VÁZQUEZ
D
etermined to get out of our comfort zone, we decided to head north and explore interesting places beyond Centro. On our hunt for new flavors and experiences we tried two unique restaurants.
Tama Shokudo On a corner just a few blocks from El Parque de la Alemán there’s a curious house decorated with Japanese lamps and eye-catching signs of kanjis, or Japanese lettering. The place itself is small and unassuming, with just a few tables and a “no reservations” policy, so be prepared to wait a (short) while. It’s worth it. YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 7
The dining space is decorated simply with a sprinkling of Japanese references. The décor isn’t overloaded like some other restaurants. There was no Japanese music but the waiter did welcome us with a friendly “konnichiwa!” Looking over the menu, I Immediately decided to order the Miso Ramen topped with chashu (sliced slow cooked pork belly). The chicken broth was tasty, and loaded with noodles topped with sliced, slow-cooked pork belly. The portion was generous. I was happy to discover they prepare the classic Japanese beverage Calpis, so I ordered one: fresh and delicious. My companion ordered Katsu Curry, a breaded pork fillet bathed in curry sauce served with rice. 13
Food & Drink Doenjang-jjigae from Choga Seoul.
It was a good-sized serving, a flavorful curry sauce and the breading was crispy. Prices at Tama Shokudo are more than fair. We didn’t order dessert because we were so full but the matcha-flavored macaroons sounded great. They don’t offer delivery service (which is a shame). I must confess that this Miso Ramen is stuck in my mind and heart. Calle 29A, 184, Col. Miguel Alemán; Instagram: @tamashokudo
Choga Seoul Heading north on Avenida Correa Rachó, in Fraccionamiento del Arco right before reaching Altabrisa, is a small, unpretentious Korean restaurant. A real hole-in-the-wall place: blink and you’ll miss it. The menu includes traditional homemade dishes such as ramen, Korean sushi, and even a cold soup with ice! The place was packed and we had to 14
Customers wait for a table at Tama Shoduko.
wait some time for a table. on the Doenjang-jjigae, a Eduardo Vázquez is this We suggest you take the pork stew with vegetables magazine's creative consmart route and make a (potato, onion, squash, and sultant and de facto Food & reservation. While waiting, homemade tofu). Drink editor. He has over a we took a look at their little It was delicious and decade of experience in print store selling lots of Korean plentiful, well worth the and digital media. A craft products and things like a wait. I chose a delicious beer and music enthusiast, BTS-branded drip coffee cold ginger tea to drink. he keeps his finger on the (yes, the famous Korean boy My companion felt pulse of Mérida. band). curious about the ChapChoga Seoul is steps Chae and ordered that. It Hannah Hudson conaway from a busy street with was a big dish of sweettributed to this report. lots of cars and buses. Most potato noodles with vegetatables are outside — there bles and pork. It was really are only two tables inside — so it can be a delicious but I’m sure she preferred my stew. bit noisy at times. The Korean pop music Good luck next time! Her drink was a sweet sounding through the speakers did a good Korean date tea. job, along with the decoration, to create an Again, no dessert. We had had plenty authentic and interesting ambience. of good food already and the Strawberry We started with the Mandu, a plate of Bing-Su on the other table looked massive. eight Korean fried mini-empanadas filled Next time we will try to save some room. with a (perhaps too) small portion of beef. We were really hungry so they gave us Calle 17Am 101B, Fracc. del Arco: some relief. For the main dish, I decided Instagram: @choga_seoul
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ISSUE 7 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
For the bookshelf Juanita Stein »
Afterlives by Abdulrazak Gurnah
The 2021 Nobel Prize in Literature was awarded to Tanzanian author Abdulrazak Gurnah “for his uncompromising and compassionate penetration of the effects of colonialism and the fate of the refugee in the gulf between cultures and continents.” His new novel Afterlives is a powerful, layered saga that spans generations. Set against the harsh colonization of east Africa, it is a story of shifting fates, disappointments and loss, and powerful love. Ilyas is taken from his family on the coast of east Africa by German colonial troops when he is a child. Forced to fight against his own people, he returns home years later to find that his parents have disappeared and his sister, Afiya, has been forced into slavery. Hamza also fights in the war, and when he returns home with only the clothes on his back and haunted by his brutal war experiences, he meets the beautiful, fearless Afiya. With crisscrossing fates, these young people are trying to make something of their lives and loves, while the rumblings of a new war on a faraway continent grow louder. Will they be carried away once more? Hardcover, 320 pages, 624 pesos.
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The Last Cuentista by Donna Barba Higuera
“Gripping in its twists and turns, and moving in its themes,” (New York Times), this dystopian — but optimistic — middle-grade novel is the winner of the 2022 John Newbery Medal, one of the most prestigious prizes in children’s literature. Petra Peña is a young girl who longs to be a storyteller, just like her beloved abuelita. Then, after a comet destroys Earth, a group of a few hundred scientists and their families — including Petra — have been selected to populate a new planet and continue the human race. But the evil collective that takes over the transport ship is intent upon erasing the sins —and the memories — of the population. When Petra awakens hundreds of years later, she realizes that she is the only person with memories of Earth and the stories of the past. Can she bring them back to life? Is there hope for the future? Sprinkled with Mexican folklore, this luminous journey through the stars reminds us of what it means to be human, told through the eyes of a smart young girl who is braver than she thinks. For middle grades, teens, and adults. Hardcover, 320 pages, 422 pesos.
Juanita Stein owns the bookstore Between the Lines on Calle 62 and 53 in the Centro. Visit facebook.com/BetweenTheLinesMerida
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Health Itinerary Peace of mind for the expat community
H
ealth Itinerary is a Mérida-based company with one mission: peace of mind for Englishspeaking customers. The company facilitates medical services tailored to the needs of the expat community through its one-of-a-kind concierge service. “We help our customers with all kinds of things, from helping them book and get to doctors' appointments to helping them with paperwork with Mexico’s social security network,” says Health Itinerary general manager, Patricia Sales. Health Itinerary works with a wide range of medical professionals including general practitioners, specialists, nurses, dentists, and laboratories with whom they have negotiated preferential rates and discounts, passing the savings on to you. If you would like to see a medical professional outside of their network, there is no issue and they will even help facilitate an interpreter if you would need one. Health Itinerary even staffs a 24-hour service number in English, in case any of their customers need help at any time. Health Insurance membership can be purchased on a monthly or yearly basis, so it is perfect for both full- and part-time residents in Mérida.
Current membership costs US$30 per month or US$260 a year and have no age limit. Services such as at-home care can also be arranged. Members are entitled to up to two medical transfers a day, and up to a total of four a month— emergency transfers are extra. Appointments with medical specialists are to be scheduled between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m. Monday to Friday. The company is also launching a new service in 2023 which aims to help newcomers to Mexico smooth over the hastles of relocation, imigration as well as obtaining permits. “The knowledgeable, courteous, and compassionate staff knows the health care providers in the city, and how to best communicate, and negotiate with them. In addition to scheduling our appointments, they meet us there, and can even take us there. Although many of the health care providers we see do speak English, their office staff rarely do, which greatly complicates the process of making appointments,” says Andrew S. Frank, an expat living full-time in Mérida. Check out healthitinerary.com, contact them directly or visit their offices in the Itzimná neighborhood for more information. Health Itinerary’s team is completely bilingual and ready to help 24/7.
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Address: Calle 58 #307 x 25A Y 27, Col. Itzimná, CP. 97100, Mérida, Yucatán, MX Phone: (+52) 999 368 72 89 Email: help@healthitinerary.com I nstagram and Facebook: @healthitinerary
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En las Calles
García Ginerés This trending neighborhood is so close to the Centro — and yet, so far
La Ruta de
Los Chenes TEXT EDUARDO VÁZQUEZ PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT
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érida changes a lot from one neighborhood to another. We all feel attracted to Centro when we first come here, but after a while, some begin to look at other areas and realize there’s so much more to discover. García Ginerés is becoming a sure favorite for those looking for a quiet spot but who still want to live near the Centro Histórico. Residents enjoy one of the most peaceful barrios in Mérida and unique features such as the Parque de Las Américas and services including hospitals, pharmacies, and utilities. Supermarkets and banks are within easy reach just a few blocks away. Jason and Mary Bondoux have been living here for the last three years. After living in the Santiago neighborhood for five months, they considered it a little noisy. “We thought we wanted to live in Centro but the buses make the streets noisy and stinky, so we decided to move to García Ginerés,” says Jason. The couple loves García’s wider streets and sidewalks, which are in relatively decent shape. “There are many, many trees, which makes the air fresh and clean,” Jason adds. “There are more trees and green spaces,” Mary says. “More open space between homes for better airflow. I feel like all of those things make it a bit cooler here. Definitely this is a great walking neighborhood. Especially if you have dogs.” They also think the architecture of the houses is amazing; you can find incredible modern homes here. “I really like that there are both colonial and mid-century architecture homes. Those are my two favorite eras of architecture and design,” says Mary. Originally called San Cosme at the beginning of the last century, García Ginerés may be one of the best colonias in Mérida for its priv-
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Free-standing homes on corner lots are especially desirable, especially if they are near Parque Las Americas.
ileged location right at the center of the city. It is crossed by several main streets that give quick access to the downtown, the airport, and even the north of Mérida. There are hardly any downsides to living in García Ginerés for the Bondouxs: “We do lack restaurants and pubs but that also keeps it quiet and traffic low,” says Jason. Although many houses here are currently used as corporate or law offices, the neighborhood is really quiet and feels like a suburb. Even so, Jason notes that “García Ginerés is very close geographically to everything, but it feels like a bedroom community where there are mostly homes, not businesses.” Mary concludes: “I would also say that I feel very accepted and included in my community here. My neighbors have been extremely welcoming, friendly, and kind.” Hannah Hudson contributed to this report. ISSUE 7 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
Getaways
Santa Rosa Xtampak may be difficult to get to but is very much worth the effort. Below, an artist’s amalgamation of the region’s architecture and motifs.
La Ruta de
Los Chenes Inspired by La Ruta Puuc, we present our very own archaeological circuit TEXT, GRAPHIC AND PHOTOS BY CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT
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side from world-famous sites like Chichén Itzá, Uxmal, or Calakmul, the Yucatán Peninsula’s more obscure ancient sites are often difficult to reach. Inspired by the idea of La Ruta Puuc, which was first promoted in the late 1950s, we present our very own archaeological circuit in the state of Campeche. We call it La Ruta de Los Chenes. Nicknamed “La República de los Chenes,” Los Chenes also refers to a geographical area made up by several communities including Hopelchén, Komchén and Dzitbalché — which all share the suffix Chen, meaning watering hole or well in Yucatec-Maya. Like with La Ruta Puuc, La Ruta de Los Chenes can be covered in a single day if you start early enough. But you will likely require
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Getaways Ruta de los Chenes
Ruta de los Chenes
an overnight stay if you want to include Uxmal or Santa Rosa Xtampak. The circuit can be started from either Mérida or Campeche and includes the archaeological sites of Chunhuhub, Tohcok, Xcalumkín, Kankí, plus Santa Rosa Xtampak, for the ambitious explorer. All of these archaeological sites are open to the public but are extremely under-visited, so don’t be surprised if you find yourself alone in one or all of these spots. As with La Ruta Puuc, there is no “right” order to visit these sites, but if you want to make the most of your day, we suggest the following order. Also, before we begin, remember to fill up your tank whenever you have the chance, as sometimes gas stations in the area run out of petrol and can be few and far between.
Like La Ruta Puuc, La Ruta de Los Chenes takes its name from the dominant architectural style of the region, though the influence of other styles is readily visible.
Santa Rosa Xtampak Santa Rosa Xtampak is the heavy hitter of the Chenes route. It is believed that it was one of the most important city-states in the entire region and held under its yoke at least a dozen smaller communities. The site boasts several pyramids, residential complexes, and a structure that resembles Chenes’ Monster of the Earth facade but is known as the Snake Mouth Portal. The road to the site is treacherous and full of potholes, so make sure your vehicle is up to the challenge. Cellphone reception in the area is sketchy at best. If you decide to include Santa Rosa Xtampak in your itinerary, consider spending the night in the nearby town of Hopelchén. The entrance fee to the site is 45 pesos.
Chunhuhub Meaning “next to the root” in YucatecMaya, Chunhuhub is like many sites in the region, having apparently reached its zenith sometime in the 5th century. It had likely been occupied for several hundred years before that. The site has many structures, though only its main palace has been restored. It is also possible to observe several stelae preserved in a small hut next to the ticketing booth (which is also a small hut). The facilities are quite good and have adequate bathrooms and running water. Admission is free. 20
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Getaways Ruta de los Chenes Tohcok Tohcok is a recently restored site just a few kilometers from Hopelchén. In 1951, Tohcok was rediscovered and documented by Edwin Shook and the Russian-born Tatiana Proskouriakoff, one of the first and greatest women in Mesoamerican archaeology. In the YucatecMaya language, Tohcok roughly translates as “the place of the precious flint knife.” Though the site itself is relatively small, it is jam packed with fabulous vaulted structures and even frescoes depicting anthropomorphic creatures in red paint. The facades of the temples of Tohcok make ample reference to the sky god Itzamná as well as the rain god Chaac and the god of maize, Yum-Kaax. Entrance to Tohcok is free of charge.
Kankí The archaeological site of Kankí shares its name with a nearby community in the municipality of Tenabo. It is likely named after a local species of agave, recognizable for its small yellow flowers. The site is full of impressive structures, notably an immense ceremonial complex adorned with Chaac roof combs (not your typical Puuc-style hook-nosed profiles). Your GPS navigation app of choice will likely be of little help in finding the site. The site is well hidden among corn fields. To make things even more complicated, the signage is poor and feels almost deliberately obtuse. Follow the signs as best you can, but when you come across the third one, just ignore it and go straight to the smaller road instead of continuing on the road that circumvents the entire field. Make sure to drive slowly; the road is not much more than a path, and getting stuck here would be pretty unpleasant. Entrance to the site is free.
Xcalumkín There is debate regarding the meaning of the name Xcalumkín. Some insist that it roughly translates as “the place of good soil that receives the sun,” while others’ translations are closer to “window/entrance of the sun.” The site is among several rolling hills, some of which were used by the Maya as natural platforms for temples. Chenes and Puuc architecture are on full display, which makes perfect sense considering their geography. Driving toward the site, notice several other hills, many of which also sport the remains of ancient temples at their summits. Walking through these fields is not advisable, but not impossible. If you have a decent telephoto lens, photograph them from the road, as encountering a snake would be no fun. Entrance to the sight is free, and ample parking spaces and bathroom amenities exist. YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 7
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Getaways Cozumel
The tourist side vs.
It’s all too easy to be lured into staying near the cruise ship port at Cozumel.
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the far side TEXT, GRAPHIC AND PHOTOS BY CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT
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am just going to come out and say it: I don’t much care for Cozumel — or at least the Cozumel most tourists experience. The island’s main port is jam-packed with tacky souvenir shops, American chain restaurants, and pushy vendors. But this is not to say that Mexico’s largest Caribbean island has nothing to offer — it most certainly does. It's just that you have to work a little harder to get to experience it. The main issue is that when you arrive in Cozumel, either by ferry from Playa del Carmen or a cruise ship, you will be dumped right in the middle of the tourist zone where taxis are extremely expensive. Drivers are incentivized to herd you towards tourist traps serving plastic-tasting food, watered-down drinks, and annoying servers who will insist you pose for photos wearing a sombrero. The only real way around this tourist trap is to rent yourself a car, scooter, or bicycle and get the heck out of the docking area YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 7
ASAP. The good news is that rentals are plentiful, and at least on the southern end of the island, the roads are quite good, if a bit narrow. Once you have nailed down your means of transportation, a new island full of virgin beaches, amazing archaeological sites, great food, and wildlife will suddenly open up. Like on the Yucatán Peninsula’s mainland, Cozumel is chock-full of Mayan archaeological sites, the largest and most visited of these being San Gervasio. The site features impressive temples and beautiful grounds ideal for birding and exploring surrounding caves and cenotes. Smaller sites also dot the landscape, including the admittedly difficult to get to Castillo Real near the island's northeast tip. The best beaches on Cozumel can be found on the island's eastern side, facing the open Caribbean. Finding a large stretch of beach entirely for yourself is easy, and the combination of white sand, coral reefs, and the calm ocean breeze makes it hard to keep 23
Getaways Cozumel
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track of time. This far side of the island is also home to several small restaurants serving up freshly caught seafood at much better prices than in town in a highly laid-back Caribbean atmosphere. Some have run away with their Caribbean identity and resemble more the places you may expect to find in Jamaica or Barbados, but they have plenty of Mexican food on the menu. Cozumel is also jam-packed with wildlife, including wild boar, deer, and several species of birds, including the island's iconic swallows and sea hawks. The island is also famous for scuba diving within one of the most spectacular sections of the great Mesoamerican barrier reef. Another thing that the eastern side of the island has to go for it are real cycling lanes, so if you are feeling adventurous and have the time, travel by bike is a great option, just maybe not during the hottest months of the year (late March through early June.) Spending the night in Cozumel is lovely as the late evening and early morning offer some great views and calm, cool breezes that go beautifully with an excellent hot coffee or cold beer. So is Cozumel a tourist trap? Parts of it are, but the island is much more than its tourist strip and resorts. This is one place where being a little adventurous pays off. ISSUE 7 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
Living large in a:
• Glamorous casona • Rustic hacienda • Quirky quinta
TEXT LEE STEELE
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PHOTOS AND GRAPHICS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT
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Hacienda
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Home on the hacienda A British couple finds tranquility, and lots of space to raise their son, after they restore and settle into a historic estate
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Hacienda
B
efore Richard and Lena Nichols rebuilt Hacienda Dzbikak, the giant estate in Umán had been in a state of deterioration for five decades. The last exciting thing to happen there was a fire that had devastated the warehouse. Their timing was good. It was 2005, and property bargains could still be had. Since then, Richard has been bullish on Yucatán. “I think the cost of living is important,” Richard says to preface an even bigger concern. “There’s security, and we’re more safe here in Mérida than in London or any British city.” In their previous lives, Richard — whose mother is Mexican — had a tortilla factory in London. After that, he imported Corona beer throughout Europe. Lena worked in finance. But Mexico was always in his peripheral field of vision. “All my life I’ve been coming here on holiday, and I’ve always monitored Mexico in the back of my brain,” he says. Since the early 2000s, he reckons that Mexico and Britain have switched places when it comes to quality of life. “The future prospects of Yucatán look great, and Europe’s in a tailspin at the moment.” With the hacienda and its 12 acres, there has been plenty of space to raise their son, who is now 14.
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There’s nothing much in the historical record about the Hacienda Dzbikak, Mayan for “written with fire.” It is traced to at least 1714 and it was likely a cattle ranch before the henequen boom. Today, some chickens, turkeys, a half-dozen sheep, a large dog and a house cat with an In stagram page and a bell around its neck are the only animals left. The more historic rooms are lushly decorated, layered with ornaments, books and art. None of it is original to the hacienda. Roughly a third of the furniture, which suits the oldest rooms so well, came from local antique shops. A third they had custom built, and the final third was shipped from London, Richard explains. It was six years before the property was ready to move in. Today, they rent it out for weddings and corporate events, and it was nearly the setting for an MTV “Big Brother”-type reality show before COVID shut down production. There is an outbuilding in which the family can retreat when paying guests are enjoying the facilities. The payoff is all the space and privacy — at least between events. “It’s a lovely environment for children to run wild and safe,” says Richard. “And if you can — for those who are going slightly off grid, if you like, and trying to get away — take time out from the madness in the modern world, it’s perfect.”
The well-tended grounds of Hacienda Dzbikak have been used for all kinds of events, including a music festival.
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Casona
Always in style New York fashion designer Jenne Maag coveted one of those historic-center mansions since the early 1980s. Now in her 18th year living in one of them, her glamorous home is still a work in progress. Above, antiques fill the front rooms of the casona while her dog and one of many rescue cats lounge near the indoor reflecting pool.
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Casona
T
exas-born Jenne Maag is known in the fashion world for her eponymous SoHo boutique. A lesser-known project of hers began almost 20 years ago when she snapped up a romantically ornate casona on Calle 47 in Mérida. “What do you know about the history of the house?” I ask. “Nothing,” comes the quick reply. “I bought it online without coming to look at it in 2004,” Maag says. “When I called them they said somebody has bought it already, so I asked ‘Did they leave a check?’ And they said no. And I said, ‘I’ll send you one today.’ So I sent them a check.” “I sold all my houses and just kept this to live in. I didn’t know anything. I didn’t know anyone in Mérida,” Jenne says. She has no regrets for going big when most expats were purchasing modest homes. “My friends have all upgraded their houses here since I’ve been here,” she adds. “I’m the only one that has kept the same house because I bought what I wanted.” Much of the furniture in one seating area comes from her West 57th Street apartment facing Carnegie Hall in New York City. She’s also owned homes in Cornwall Bridge, Connecticut; and Chianti, Italy. But since her first time here on a vacation in 1982, she had dreamed of a house in Mérida. “It was really great,” Jenne recalls. “For
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sale was just mansion after mansion, all in disrepair, which I loved. So I always said I’d like to have a house there.” She’s improved an already perfect house. Jenne has expanded the house from two bedrooms to five, now at 9,000 square feet, complete with a striking reflecting pool that runs alongside the downstairs bedrooms. The rear garden was recently refined with a fountain and stone walls. For planters, she has five busts along the pathway. Behind the pool are her “Nefertitis,” three regal ladies. They are a testament to her eye for talent. “I had those heads carved. And the stone carver had never done a head before,” Jenne tells me. “He didn’t speak English and I didn’t speak Spanish. But I told him what I wanted.” The rear of the house looms large over the garden, caged on elegant and ornate metalwork. She points at the “opium den” — what she calls an extravagant lounge upstairs. The previous owner and original renovator, Raymond, has left Mérida for the United States, his legacy being around 10 beautiful homes in the Centro. Two have become hotels, Jenne informs me. “When I die or sell, or whatever, they’ll turn this into a hotel,” Jenne says. “I think this is the best house he did.”
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PHOTO: COURTESY
The so-called upstairs “opium den” overlooks a newly refurbished garden that’s both formal and whimsical. Busts fashioned into planters were carved under Jenne Maag’s direction.
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Enjoy retirement in Mérida in the company of friends
C
asona Nikte’ Boutique Senior Living is a community aimed at those 55 or over and looking to make Mérida their home away from home. Whether you are looking to spend a month, a year, or more, Casona Nikte’ combines the best that Yucatán has to offer with 24-hour bilingual support. Unlike hotels or rentals, Casona Nikte’ has created a space where care and community are its guiding values. Located in a grand 19th-century casona in Mérida’s Santiago neighborhood, Casona Nikte’ offers all of the comforts of home and then some. Its carefully manicured open spaces and pool are perfect for yoga, meditation, painting or simply hanging out with friends. But aside from beautiful surroundings, what really makes Casona Nikte’ stand out is its friendly 24-hour support system spearheaded by a team of highly qualified nurses and concierges. Another important service offered by Casona Nikte’ is its legal concierge service which assists its guests in connecting with specialists to help take care of complicated necessities like the procurement of resident visas. “What people need most sometimes is a friendly, helping hand and we are committed to always being there when we are needed. This support is not limited to medical needs, as we place great emphasis on emotional wellbeing through a holistic model which encourages both fun and growth, ” says Marifer Gómez Crespo, Casona Nikte’s manager. Another key element of life at Casona Nikte’ is their emphasis on helping their guests experience Yucatán’s culture through day trips, cooking classes, and everyday interactions with the facility’s staff. “Embracing Yucatán’s rich culture is part of what makes living here so special,” says Geancarlo Marín, Casa Nikte’s director and a veteran of the hospitality industry with more than 20 years’ experience. “There is so much to see do and taste, and we are always up to organize day trips to beaches, archaeological sites, or local markets.” Part of embracing local culture means being exposed to the best of the region’s
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“ Needing medical attention is stressful enough as it is, but needing it in a country where you may not speak the language and don’t have family is even more complicated. That is where we come in.” cuisine, though alternative options are also always available. Three meals and two snacks are offered daily, all prepared with both nutrition and flavor in mind. Casona Nikte’ has six luxurious rooms, each with its own ensuite bathroom, air conditioner, and refrigerator. The shared kitchen SPONSORED CONTENT
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is also always open so that residents may prepare a meal or snack just the way they like it. In case of appointments with first-class medical specialists, Casona Nikte’s staff will arrange transfers to the city’s best clinics and hospitals. “Needing medical attention is stressful enough as it is, but needing it in a country where you may not speak the language and YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 7
don’t have family is even more complicated. That is where we come in; our residents will never be left alone. We are committed to offering the very best personalized service every step of the way,” says Casona Nikte’ partner Julio César Arroyo. Casona Nikte’ is a pet-friendly facility, but it's best to first consult with them regarding availability. SPONSORED CONTENT
Learn more For more information on Casona Nikte’, pricing and all other inquiries email info@casonanikte.com or give them a call at + 52 9995321621. Also, feel free to check out CasonaNikte.com for more photos and other details.
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Music flowers on the quinta A dynamic designer finds fertile ground for helping children reconnect with Dzemul’s music heritage
Marjorie Skouras and Bruno Bardavid are never really alone in their large ranch an hour northeast of Mérida.
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La Escuela de Musica Kookix grew quickly at the quinta, where a modest school building has broken ground.
PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY MARJORIE SKOURAS
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hen designer Marjorie Skouras and her husband, Bruno Bardavid, moved to Mérida, the grand Centro Histórico home they put together merited a spread in Architectural Digest. Now, the California duo is in the countryside with an entirely new emphasis: bringing out the musical talent in local children. Lured to Yucatán by fellow Los Angeles designers, they joined the community of artists and designers who found this part of Mexico a perfect outlet for their creativity. Marjorie knew right away it was an ideal match. “We checked into the hotel, went outside, and I said this is gonna be the place, yeah,” says Marjorie. But several years later, they’re not in exactly the same place. They have set up housekeeping about an hour northeast of the city in rural Dzemul, on Quinta Kookix, growing henequen. The crops take years to mature, but when they do, they will be sold to an artist whose output requires trucks full of the fibrous plant. Their new house is a plain block structure with surrealist murals. Inside and out are colorful vignettes from Marjorie’s collections. It’s an artist’s version of a ranch house, where guests are greeted by their pet pig, Tina, who roams freely, nuzzling guests. The atmosphere is very relaxing — attributable to both the home and the hosts. Although we appear entirely isolated from everything, children from nearby start to 38
appear, some carrying musical instruments. It draws our attention to a the beginnings of a building across the field, space for the music school they’ve begun: Escuela de Música Kookix. The school is a private, not-for-profit project that offers free music classes for children of all ages, including the instruments of their choice, started by Marjorie and Bruno on their ranch in September 2021 with three students ranging in age from 6 to 10. Although some funds and instruments have been donated, Marjorie and Bruno have financed the project personally. The school arose after state arts funding was slashed, eliminating cultural programs in public schools. Dzemul, like most of Mexico, has a rich musical and dance tradition. Its folkloric jarana dancers are known statewide, and three generations ago, Dzemul had an 80-piece orchestra called the Clave Azul, or Blue Note. “We were aided by our friend Eduardo Zarracino from the Hacienda San Francisco in Dzidzantún, who has been working with the children of his community for more than 15 years and took his group to perform at the White House not once, but twice,” Marjorie writes in a letter that lays out the music school’s backstory.
After the first class, they took the children and walked to a community of families evicted from a hacienda where they had lived and worked for generations. “We walked door to door to explain what we were offering and that all were welcome, accompanied by percussion instruments. One week later, we held an open house with a musical demonstration and a piñata. The following week our little group had grown to nine students.” By Christmas, enrollment snowballed to 14, and a choir had been formed and had six songs, including one in Mayan, under their belts. They were invited to perform at the Christmas tree lighting ceremony for the neighboring town of Cansahcab and received a certificate of thanks from the mayor, Marjorie recalls. Later in December, several students were invited to participate in a traditional Mayan musical performance at the Teatro Peon Contreras, Merida’s beautiful opera house. Three children had never even been to Mérida, the state’s capital. By 2022, children expressed an increasing interest in learning to play instruments. Marjorie posted on Facebook asking if anyone had any used instruments ISSUE 7 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
Quinta
“We checked into the hotel, went outside, and I said this is gonna be the place, yeah.” they could donate. The response was overwhelming: generous cash donations and musical instruments from around the globe — violins, cellos, guitars, ukuleles, clarinets, recorders, a transversal flute, trumpets, a trombone, a beautiful keyboard, percussion instruments, three electric guitars with an amp, a mandolin, and a vihuela de Mariachi, an elegant string instrument from Mexico. To top that off, Steve Katz, one of the founding members of the legendary group Blood, Sweat & Tears, gifted the school with his own guitar. “For a girl from 1960s San Francisco, this was really, really cool,” Marjorie states. As of August 2022, the school had 43 students and five instructors. They had broken ground on the northeast corner of the property for five classroom areas, audio-visual facilities, a performance area, and two bathrooms. In the project’s spirit, the contractor and local supplier reduced their fees. “In a place where every penny counts, everyone who can help is helping,” says Marjorie.
Harvesting creativity
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fter nearly 17 years in the film business, Marjorie Skouras is a prolific home products designer whose lighting, furniture, and accessories have been featured in magazines including World of Interiors, Architectural Digest, Elle Décor, Vogue, House and Garden, House Beautiful, Harper’s Bazaar and Veranda. She says her aesthetic is informed strongly by her travels, particularly time spent living in Mediterranean countries, Hollywood, and San Francisco. In 2007, Marjorie was one of Metropolitan Home’s 100 most influential designers. Today, her office and studio are in Mérida, producing current lines and new pieces while working with local artisans and materials. Moreover, Marjorie has lent her vintage clothing collection for an exhibition on view at the Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatán through January 2023. A book on the collection is also underway. Marjorie’s tenure in film encompassed both management and creative roles in development, production, business affairs, distribution and management. She happens also to be a descendant of the Skouras family, which governed 20th Century-Fox for 30 years.
COURTESY MARJORIE SKOURAS
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Online: marjorieskourasdesign.com
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Business owners, say ‘hi’ to the expats
Thousands of new residents, retirees, and digital nomads from the US and Canada are in Mexico to stay. Are they your customers yet? Let us make the introductions. The creative agency for Yucatán Magazine will get your brand name out front.
info@roofcatmedia.com
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HOMES LAND PROPERTIES AND PROFESSIONALS
A rare find in García Ginerés PLUS: 7 pro tips for researching real estate No. 7 YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 7
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Luxury Listing
A casually elegant gem in García Ginerés By Lee Steele
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t would be a shame to keep this house all to yourself, but no one would blame you if you did. Here is the classic 20th-century Yucatecan home on a corner lot in one of Mérida’s most sought-after neighborhoods: lovely García Ginerés, just two blocks from Parque de Las Américas. Finding good properties in this part of the city is getting harder and harder, which is just one reason we’re confident in calling this a “gem.” Built to be a private home, this blue beauty’s scale, architecture, and location make it more than suitable for a business — maybe a guest house or art gallery. Anyone accustomed to living in a house surrounded by yard space — meaning there’s outside access to the pool and rear garden —will appreciate this handsome and welcoming property. The current owners have restored this spacious property to better-than-new condition. The front door opens to a long, wide center hall with sight lines to the new pool, fountain and whirlpool. There is living space on the left and equally large bedrooms on the right, but their use is flexible. Any one of these spaces would make an ideal home office, for instance. Walk through to the rear and, aside from the terrace and outside dining space, find a guest bath/pool bath. The laundry room has nearly new appliances, which are included in the sale. It doesn’t take much imagination to see the potential here. Entertaining will be a breeze with a layout like this. The bright and airy kitchen area — with two refrigerators — looks out onto the patio and connects to a substantial breakfast room. The giant two-car garage is a huge bonus, but since street
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parking is so easy in this part of town, this could convert to even more living space. Amenities include air conditioning, solar panels, decorative pasta-tile floors, a colonial beamed ceiling, and original wooden doors. Furniture and appliances included. Modern and timeless, this iconic Mérida home represents the best of two worlds. This García Ginerés gem is offered for US$559,000 by Keith Heitke and Robert Slaats at Mexico International. See more details and photos at mexintl.com/property/005855
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Luxury Listing
By the numbers Lot size 21 by 35 meters Total area 743.5 square meters Living area 383 square meters Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 Parking 2-car garage Price: US$559,000 Property code: 5855 at mexintl.com
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Real Estate Professional
Researching Real Estate:
7 Ways to Get Started Nicholas Sanders of Yucatan Beach & City Property shares his checklist for property-buying success
M
érida is a true success story and has transformed over the years. Many people, expats and nationals alike, are realizing the many benefits of life here. The Yucatán is safe, affordable, and an excellent choice for full-time living and investing. Are you interested in purchasing real estate in Mérida, Yucatán, or other surrounding areas? If the answer is yes, then here are some simple tips to get you started.
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It is never too early to start your research if you are considering investing or moving to Yucatán. >> A consultation with a Professional Real Estate Agent in the state of Yucatán is an excellent way to explore your options and learn about purchasing property as a foreigner.
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Choose an agent by reputation, not by listings. >> Working for an established broker is one of the most valuable resources for an agent to have, so take a look at the company website, and read their testimonials. A real estate agent will give you information as to what to expect before, during, and after your closing.
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And remember, the most valuable and accurate information will be from a professional real estate agent, not from social media.
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Decide what the purpose of your purchase will be. >> Will this be a home for full-time living, an investment property for rental/vacation, or possibly land for the future? Knowing this will help determine the best locations and property features best suited for you.
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Think about the lifestyle you are interested in. >> Are you a person who wants to be close to restaurants, shopping, and an active lifestyle? Then maybe city life is best for you. If you are a person who wants to have a more quiet lifestyle, with nature, close to the beach in a small town. Then one of the smaller beach communities is for you.
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Have an established budget for the purchase. >> Seller financing is rare and bank financing is generally not an option. There are a few companies that offer financing to foreigners; however, interest rates are very high, fees are high SPONSORED CONTENT
and the criteria to qualify is stringent. Many historic homes will not qualify for financing. So be prepared to pay in full at the closing.
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Have a timeline planned. >> Know when funds will be available and when you will be ready to make a purchase.
Stay within your budget when searching for properties. >> If a property is correctly priced, it will sell very close to the listing price. Being an informed buyer will give you an edge in the market. It will also help you move forward with confidence and reduce stress during the process.
Let me help As a professional real estate agent, I love doing consultations for anyone exploring the options of purchasing here, and it is a privilege to share my knowledge and to guide you through the process. This service is available by phone, WhatsApp, and video chat. Remember, it is never too early to prepare for your next adventure, so contact me today to schedule your consultation and get prepared for your first property purchase here in Yucatán. ISSUE 7 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
“It is never too early to start your research if you are considering investing or moving to Yucatán.” —Nicholas Sanders
Yucatan Beach & City Property
Nicholas Sanders has built a reputation for honesty and integrity in the world of Yucatán real estate.
About Nicholas Sanders Nicholas Sanders has proudly worked as a real estate agent with Yucatan Beach and City Property since 2017. In this time, he has built a reputation for honesty, integrity and as one of the hardest-working agents in Mérida! His goal is to guide buyers on the amazing journey of finding their dream home in Yucatán, from YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 7
the first phone call to the closing and beyond. Nicholas moved to Mérida nearly 12 years ago from Indianapolis, Indiana. He takes the love of his new home and applies it to his profession by sharing his knowledge of the area with his buyers. Nicholas now lives with his husband and their four dogs near Centro. Together they have visited over 30 archaeological zones, all SPONSORED CONTENT
the best places to eat in Mérida and now they are currently going through their own renovation project. He continues to contribute to the local community with professionalism and trendsetting. Contact nicholas@yucatanbeachandcityproperty.com or call 999-398-1267. On the web: www.yucatanbeachandcityproperty.com. 45
Say
to customers who are saying hola to Yucatán Foreign residents, expats, gringos, the international community. Whatever you want to call the English-speaking folks who are investing here, Yucatán Magazine is the platform to connect with them. We appeal to an audience that appreciates Yucatán for its beauty, its culture, its possibilities. That’s why our platform enjoys the market’s highest social-media reach in English with around 27,500 followers.
Unbeatable exposure. Our targeted print distribution includes 4,000 color, glossy printed copies sent to paid subscribers in the US, Canada, and Mexico and offered free in over 300 boutique hotels, guesthouses, and rental homes in Yucatán. And daily content for 67,000 monthly visitors at yucatanmagazine.com and a weekly email newsletter with 5,000 subscribers, not to mention our growing YouTube channel with thoughtful, engaging video. Get our media kit for the whole story. Contact Yesica Benitez, marketing director: yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com
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Alejandro Pinto Tolosa English-speaking driver, thorough knowledge of the region, from where to shop to what to see. WhatsApp +52 1 999 205 7620 pintoalejandro100@gmail.com
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Advertise your services here by contacting Yesica Benitez: yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 7
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Framed | Emilio Salazar Touché
Perserverance and dedication TEXT HANNAH HUDSON PHOTO EDUARDO VÁZQUEZ
B
orn in Mexico City, Emilio Salazar Touché has lived in Mérida since he was a teenager. He was the kind of kid who was always drawing, and his friends still remember him with a notebook and pencil in hand. Emilio’s early influences were painters such as Gabriel Ramírez Aznar and Manuel González. The work of the muralists Siqueiros and Orozco also had a profound impact. He describes the origin of his career, however, in the moment he found a book on the artist Pedro Coronel in his university library. None of his fellow industrial design students paid any attention to the book, but Emilio would sit and leaf through it every chance he got. His career as a painter began in earnest after finishing his studies. Since there was no art school in Mérida at the time, Emilio and many other young artists from his generation were purely self-taught. A group of them decided to start organizing exhibitions by themselves, in their own homes, in their own way. This was the birth of an alternative visual arts collective called Deisy Loria, a character they invented—their “art teacher”— as a way of validating themselves as artists despite their lack of formal art education. Emilio took part in three of these mysterious underground events and considers them crucial to the launch of his career. 2014 was a milestone year for Emilio as he held his first solo exhibition, Mirtiforme, in Mérida’s Galería Municipal. The show included his initial explorations of figurative painting but also works in which he began
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to add abstract elements, depicting what lies beneath the skin—muscles, cells, organic forms. The process of delving layer by layer deeper into the figure and into abstraction helped define his pictoric language. This step forward—the definitive jump into abstraction—shaped his career forever. Emilio calls his work neo-abstract and believes young Yucatecan artists can build on the work of the Ruptura generation to create new forms of abstraction. Over the years, he has defined and perfected his unique, striking, and unmistakable style. This artist’s philosophy is clear: Each painting indicates the path to follow, although there are always unexpected creative accidents and discoveries that create new routes and avenues for development. Emilio is currently working in a completely new way on a series he calls Metanoia. The process is 100% visceral and instinctual; he no longer sketches an outline of the forms as he always did before, instead, feeling free from structure, he just flows with the painting. He describes it as the feeling of having a mystical revelation. “Someone once said,” he paraphrases, “that the painting is in charge. Us artists are just a medium.” As to his plans for his creative process moving forward, “my only plan is perseverance and dedication to my work.” Emilio’s artwork can be found at 60 Gallery across Parque Santa Ana, Mérida. Instagram: @emiliosalazart ISSUE 7 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
EVERY CITY NEEDS A GOOD BURGER JOINT
/ flamanteburgers
Calle 64 x 47 Centro, Merida
Casa 77 Colonial us$209,000 REDUCED!!!
Listing 5984
