Yucatán Magazine / Issue 5 / Coastal Cool: The Beach Issue by Yucatán Magazine

The home 2 architects built for themselves

No phone, no power, no problem: Life in the ’80s

Advice: Make renters come to their senses

Katrin Schikora’s rustic retreat at Bacalar’s famous lagoon.

Coastal Cool Catch a breeze from all corners of the Peninsula

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Director Lee Steele lee@roofcatmedia.com Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht carlosrosado@roofcatmedia.com Marketing Yesica Benitez yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com Editorial Consultant Pablo Arroyo Díaz Creative Consultant Eduardo Vázquez Circulation Alejandro Pinto Tolosa ADDITIONAL CONTRIBUTORS Fernando Abreu Melissa Adler Abraham Bojórquez Emmanuel Castillo Leo Espinosa Verónica Garibay Cory Gash Angel Ortiz Laura Sánchez German Schaub Juanita Stein Maggie Rosado van der Gracht Claire Tyrpak Eduardo Vázquez Emmanuel Castillo Vales Subscriptions subscriptions.yucatanmagazine.com Advertising & General Information info@roofcatmedia.com

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AÑO 2, NÚMERO 5 Todos los derechos reservados por Roof Cat Media S de RL de CV, Calle 84, 278 x 59C y 59D Fraccionamiento Las Américas, Mérida, Yucatán, CP 97302. Prohibida la reproducción total o parcial del contenido sin autorización previa y por escrito de los editores. La revista asume que el material aquí presentado es original y no infringe derechos reservados de ley. Reserva de derechos de uso exclusivo del título. Yucatán at Home no se hace responsable por el contenido de sus anunciantes. PRINTED IN YUCATÁN, MEXICO

PHOTO: CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

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Editorial: Living in balance on the coast Just Asking: Funny questions Ask a Yucateca: The best beach Seen: Men making a splash; Monica de Mérida Profiles: Expat Rebels, Emma Molin, & Sean Hennessy Books: Juanita Stein Cities: This way to Campeche Food & Drink

Yucatán at Home 24 Casa Desnuda: 2 architects at rest 26 Marilyn’s kitchen 28 A blank canvas for Randy Shull 30 4 tips before building at the beach SPECIAL SECTION

Coastal Cool E arly adapters It was the 1980s and George and Pearl didn’t want to wait for retirement to move to Yucatán.

Isla Mujeres Mexico shows its Caribbean side.

Bacalar The town by the famous lagoon is growing, for better or for worse.

Sisal Too perfect for its own good?

El Cuyo We are in love with its limitations.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

44 46 48 50 52

Yucatán Homes & Land An ‘Urban Hacienda’ sells quickly A historic casona in the heart of it all Professional Profile: Adam Hoggie, Mexican Time Professional Profile: Erich Briehl, Bulldog Solar Pro Tips: Appeal to your guests’ senses

Framed 56 Juan Batta 3

Editorial

Living in balance on Yucatán’s coast As a native Yucateco, my memories of the beach bring waves of nostalgia for childhood summers and Easter holidays spent at chichi’s (my grandmother’s) beach house in Progreso. Then there are more recent memories, like my first date with the woman who would become my fiancée.

These little, and not so little, pieces of paradise have been attracting folks from around the world for decades. Some come simply looking for a few days of fun and sun in the Riviera Maya while others have made these sandy shores their home. Our increasing presence can be overbearing to the ecosystem. As more and more people from abroad have settled on the Peninsula’s coast, they have formed thriving communities. Operating small businesses, attending farmers’ markets, and organizing charity events. These are just a few of the ways newcomers spend their time at the beach — when not sipping on margaritas, of course. Beach life in Yucatán can take on many forms, from discrete little casitas to luxurious estates with long palm tree-lined entryways featuring enormous palapas and marble flooring. But regardless of your ambitions or budget, life at the beach comes with its own set of challenges. Sand blows around everywhere, we do battle with authorities over ever-changing construction rules, and of course, we are ever vigilant of incoming tropical storms and hurricanes. The demands on the environment are more pressing. Human activity has brought new issues which are impossible to ignore. Rising sea levels combined with beach erosion and over-development are now threatening Yucatán’s coast and the non-human creatures with whom we share it. As awareness of our impact on nature continues to increase, there is hope that by coming together, the beauty of Yucatán’s beaches will endure for a long, long time. So here’s to the beach, and the people who call it home. May your waters be calm, skies clear, and bellies full of seafood. And may we all treat its waters, sands, flora and fauna with the respect it deserves. 

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht Editor, Yucatán Magazine carlosrosado@roofcatmedia.com

ON THE COVER: Mérida artist Katrin Schikora relaxes in her Bacalar getaway across the Peninsula. Her private spot is in contrast with all the new development surrounding, and perhaps threatening, the region’s famous lagoon. See page 36. PHOTOS: CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT 4

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

ARCHAEOLOGY

Have Chunhuhub all to yourself When arriving to Chunhuhub, you will likely have the entire place to yourself. According to the guard, often a week will go by without any visitors. We like it this way. There is something special about having an entire archaeological site for yourself. It’s great for birdwatching, too. Meaning “next to the root” in Yucatec-Maya, Chunhuhub appears to have reached its zenith sometime in the 5th century, though it had likely been occupied for several hundred years before that. We don’t know of any organized tours that travel here, so you’ll likely have to go in your own car. Driving from Mérida, you will pass several other archaeological sites including Uxmal and Kabah. Both are worth a stop, if you have the time and energy.  Visit yucatanmagazine.com for more on this site, plus news about culture, people and everyday life in Yucatán. Click “Newsletter” to get top headlines delivered to your inbox every week, for free.

Chunhuhub

Relax.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

Let us handle the details.

Just Asking “We had family ask us, Is it safe where you live? Absolutely safer than almost every area in the States!”

Curious friends back home: An old friend still living north of the border asked if it was summer here while it was winter in the States. It made us think about how confused some people are about this part of the world. So we asked our Facebook followers for the funniest question they have been asked about living in Yucatán.

“How do you celebrate Christmas without snow?”

“They asked if we had Diet Coke here.” 6

“Friends asked if we have different seasons. We don’t have seasons here in Yucatán. We have warm and hot.”

“The only way I could get them to have an idea of the area was to say we are west of Cancún. That they knew.”

“Are there a lot of fireworks on the 4th of July?”

“Are you OK? ... after an earthquake in Mexico City.” ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Ask a Yucateca Yesica Benitez

What’s the best beach? The highs and lows of Progreso, Celestún, and Sisal and the problem with Las Coloradas

I want to know which beach is the best. What do you think about Progreso?

A: Progreso may not be Yucatán’s most pristine beach, but it is by far the liveliest because it has the most restaurants, shops, and services. It is very nice to spend the day there and particularly convenient if you are just looking for a quick dip in the ocean or are traveling with kids. Also, be aware of which days the cruise ships roll in. Progreso is a completely different scene on cruise-ship day. When meeting folks from abroad I am often asked about my opinion regarding which exactly is the best beach in Yucatán. This, of course, is a very broad question and honestly, it comes down to what you’re looking for. Q: I know there are flamingos in Celestún, but can you swim there? A: The beach and mangrove at Celestún are in two different locations, one just outside the town and the other just a couple of blocks from downtown. The beach at Celestún is among the most beautiful in the Gulf of Mexico and is truly worth a visit. Just try to go during the low season as it can get very busy over summer, Easter, and long weekends.

brief tour. You also might be disappointed. The famous pink color of the beach varies greatly depending on the time of year. Q: I have heard that Sisal is great and a “Pueblo Mágico,” so do you recommend it? A: Sisal has always been a magical place, but in recent years it has drawn much more attention with many calling it the Peninsula’s next Cancún. This is a bit of a stretch, but this coastal community is facing many challenges — mainly social and environmental — to accommodate tourism as it is. That being said, it is one of the Peninsula’s best beaches and its proximity to Mérida makes it a no-brainer. Q: Other than swimming and soaking in the sun, what other beach activities do you recommend in Yucatán?

Q: I have seen amazing photos of Las Coloradas but it’s quite far away. Is it worth the trip?

A: There is no shortage of things to do. Larger destinations like Progreso have long boardwalks perfect for leisurely strolls, lots of restaurants, and attractions such as seasonal fairs. One of my personal favorite things to do is rent a kayak to explore the region’s mangroves and go birdwatching. Fishing is of course another long-time favorite, though more extreme activities such as kite-boarding are quickly gaining popularity. But no matter where you decide to go, don’t forget to bring sunblock because the sun here is not particularly forgiving. 

A: In all honesty, Las Coloradas is more of a photo opportunity for Instagram than are real beach destination. Yes, it can be stunning. But it is not possible to swim in the pink waters or even to stay for more than a

Kanasín native Yesica Benitez is more than happy to explain the realities of local culture and make recommendations for bewildered expats. No holds barred. Email yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com.

L as Coloradas PHOTO: GETTY

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

Seen

Knock, knock Fraschi Art specializes in miniatures, particularly tiny versions of Mérida’s famous colonial doors. Crafted at a 1:16 scale, often with shockingly realistic details, these tiny marvels can be shipped worldwide. Each one is unique. Can be hung or free-standing. fraschiart.com

Make a splash Mérida fashion house Marcelo Chic has unveiled a limited-edition swimwear collection for summer. Above, Diego won’t get his feathers ruffled in a rainbow-colored outfit, out in time for Pride. Left, Ricardo sparkles in his electric blue holographic Lycra. Angel models taffeta comfy classical shorts for swimming or day wear. Below, Javier wades in with Blue Moroccan shorts. Designer Marcelo Lopez has all his fashions manufactured locally. Collections come in limited runs and are made-to-measure for each client. marcelochic.com

Last magazine stand standing If you’re reading this, you probably love magazines. Sadly, the last store in Mérida with any Englishlanguage selection worth mentioning is Sanborns at Gran Plaza or Altabrisa. The upcharges are hefty, but we pay the price to get our fix. It’s not the same since the Fiesta Americana branch shuttered in 2019.

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Monica de Mérida Issue 1 of our magazine featured Monica Petrus, aka Monica de Hocabá, on the cover. Monica is a Los Angeles artist who moved to remote Hocabá, which she first encountered on Google Maps. Monica brilliantly restored not just a historic home but her art career. Now, she’s building a new home in Mérida, near the future Gran Parque La Plancha. She’s going for something grand, from what we can see in the photos she teases us with online. Kind of a MoorishAlhambra theme, we’re guessing. We’re also betting that those plain walls will be covered in murals before we go to press. When it’s finished, we will do our best for a Yucatán Magazine scoop. Facebook: @monicadehocaba

Green means go It seemed good for pedestrians when the city installed walk/ don’t walk signs in the Centro. But walking on green can get you killed at some intersections. Thanks to this car for making my point during a morning walk. My crosswalk and Calle 60 simultaneously got the green light, but — and this is awkward! — that meant the car beside me was allowed to turn left and nearly ran me over. We’re hoping Mérida City Hall can work on better synchronization. Earlier, yucatanmagazine.com reported how drivers get momentarily confused when they think the green pedestrian light is for them. —Lee Steele YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Business owners, say ‘hi’ to the expats

Thousands of new residents, retirees, and digital nomads from the US and Canada are in Mexico to stay. Are they your customers yet? Let us make the introductions. The creative agency for Yucatán Magazine will get your brand name out front.

info@roofcatmedia.com

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

Profile Christopher Sherrod & Nancy Wagner

Locked down Two proud ‘Expat Rebels’ recount their pandemic adventure on the beach, and explain why they built a steam room in Yucatán

here are a lot of foreigners making Yucatán their home. When the pandemic stopped worldwide travel one couple picked a home, bought it and starting renovating it to retire into. Christopher and Nancy started a worldwide tour back in 2016 and came to Mexico on their first stop. First going to Playa del Carmen and then a whirl-wind tour to Akumal, Playa again, Mérida, and Progreso then Chicxulub and Mérida again to finally settle in Telchac Puerto. Chris started a podcast talking about being an expat and was having fun sharing the experience when he had a grand mal seizure in early 2019, which prevented him from driving, at least so far. After a lengthy healing time being restricted to a darkened bedroom in rentals around Chicxulub, Mérida, and Progreso he started emerging to relearn how to cook and live life when the pandemic hit. His podcast was on hold while he recovered enough to start again. Now everyone was restricted to home and Chris had already learned how to make

the most of staying home all the time. “People are experiencing high inflation and changing home-country attitudes that are driving people to retire early to safer places like Yucatán, Mexico,” says Chris. During the most severe part of the lockdown in Mérida he created a vlog — a video blog —showing what it was like to live in Mexico during the pandemic. The video went on to get several thousand views. Post-seizure, he’s found it easier to create vlogs than a podcast with guests, so he started a nearly daily series on his beach home renovation as the pandemic continued outside his walls. Not seeing many videos showing what a home renovation is like in a foreign country, Chris started documenting projects and soliciting comments and sharing what was working and what he had done wrong. Chris and his partner Nancy are the only foreigners that they know of that did not use an architect for their renovation. “We were comfortable enough with Spanish and had a great vision of what we

wanted and we didn’t want a third-person architect in the way,” Chris explains. “Nan hired and managed the construction workers to create the home and yard to fit us exactly.” The home has a heart-shaped pool that incorporates an already existing coconut palm tree for an island. There are also concrete sidewalks from street gate to beach gate, higher sidewalls, electrical and water upgrades, and even a steam room. “People thought we were crazy to add a steam room in a humid part of Mexico but we enjoy the benefits of a good steam on our lungs and skin,” Chris says. “Plus there is the pool right next to it as an easy cold plunge.” The idea of being an expat in Mexico went from idea to reality in about 30 days. Chris says putting as little as possible in storage and living out of luggage and trying different places out was a lot easier. After considering nearly 30 places, they finally had enough experience to know exactly where they wanted to settle.  Online: ExpatRebel.com ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Profile Emma Molin

Among friends Emma Molin’s Cadadía bar-café is a cool, welcoming space for all people TEXT MELISSA ADLER PHOTOS MELISSA ADLER & LEE STEELE

ocated in the northeast tip of Mejorada just east of the old train station, Cadadía is a relaxing space with a menu that offers something for everyone and a very good selection of cocktails. Owner Emma Molin opened the bar-café in June 2021, a brave undertaking considering the pandemic. Emma had always dreamed of opening a restaurant. Drawing on her experience as owner of an event venue in California, her enthusiasm, attention to detail and her skill at putting together a great team, Cadadía was bound to succeed. Emma visited Mérida years ago at the suggestion of her mother, who first encountered it back in the 1970s. She moved YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

Top left, owner Emma Molin and her dog Etta, the unofficial hostess at Cadadía. The bar-café is elegant but funky, with a diverse menu and elaborate cocktail menu. Above right, a Bulldog gin and tonic with juniper berries hit the spot.

here permanently from the San Francisco area in 2015. Cadadía prides itself in being a place where all are welcome. It is a place to meet folks from all of Mérida’s diverse communities and all feel equally at home. Although there is no courtyard, the restaurant is comfortably airy. The bohemian-chic hangout is situated on a quiet corner with high ceilings and towering doors that open to two

sides. The view of the sunset and the funky murals along the train station’s loading docks add to the relaxed atmosphere. On a recent night I had crostini with breaded shrimp, avocado, crunchy veggies and remoulade sauce, while my companion chowed down on perfectly cooked pasta with garlic, olive oil, spinach, and fine herbs. Both were perfection. There’s karaoke on

Wednesday evenings, “Jueves de Brujas” tarot readings on Thursdays, “Les-Viernes” dancing on Fridays, and a DJ with dance music on Saturdays.  Cadadía bar-café is open 6 p.m. to 1 a.m. Wednesday through Sunday at Calle 53 and 46, Centro. Street parking is readily available along Calle 46. Find their impressive and sophisticated menu and cocktail list at facebook.com/Cadadiabarcafe. 13

Conversation Sean Hennessy

The pub we needed The Irish expat who helped revive Mérida’s most grand boulevard has a new mission: helping charities help others TEXT AND PHOTOS: ABRAHAM BOJÓRQUEZ

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

ennessy’s Irish Pub is what you would expect, with the classic wooden and golden finishes, the beer signs, the bottle wall at the bar. However, the arches, tall ceilings, and tiled floor of the old casona remind you that this is Yucatán, not Dublin. Oddly enough, both styles coexist seamlessly. “Probably the biggest export out of Ireland is the Irish pub,” says Sean Hennessy. He’s a tall man, with a kind gaze and a deep voice filtered by a strong Irish accent. When he and his husband moved to Mérida, they wanted to set up a boutique hotel. This plan quickly morphed into a profitable real estate business through which they would buy, remodel, and sell old houses in Centro. In 2009, the market collapsed, and they were forced to regroup. “I remember walking down Montejo and thinking, ‘this town needs a good Irish pub.’ Every good city I’ve ever lived in had one. The interesting thing is, putting a pub here was a huge risk. People would tell me, ‘you’re crazy. Montejo is dead.’ And it was dead.” Back in 2010, when Hennessy’s opened, Montejo had long lost its reputation as the city’s grand corridor. Businesses would often open and close in the same year. Nightlife was non-existent. Buildings were neglected. As Sean recalls, most tourism in the city happened in the first few blocks around the Plaza Grande, and locals didn’t hang around much in downtown. “The problem with an Irish pub is, you need the tourists, the expats, and the locals, all three of them. If you only have the locals, it’s just a themed bar. The other two groups give it that international feel, but

Hennessy’s Irish Pub, where sports fans often gather to watch a game, was part of the Paseo de Montejo’s revival at the beginning of the last decade.

by themselves aren’t enough to sustain it. I knew after a year this place was successful because a friend said to me: ‘every time I come to your pub, I feel like I need a passport. Like I’ve traveled somewhere.’ What gives it that feel is the mix of people.” Fast forward 12 years and Montejo is alive again, a transformation in which Hennessy’s undoubtedly played a part. The bar has become a hub of sorts for both foreigners and Mexicans, the latter of whom Sean says are about 70% of his business. “Now, a lot of the malls are dead. The locals have returned to Centro. The gringos helped revive it, but now it’s the Mexicans running it. Montejo still has a lot of room to grow, and I think it will.” Sean speaks unapologetically of Hennessy’s success. He believes the main reason for it has been the ability to keep it simple

and stay true to the concept. “Do one thing and do it well.” In his experience, chasing trends doesn’t work. “A lot of restaurants and bars make this mistake, trying to be this thing now and then this other thing next weekend. You can’t be everything!” This may be true for his business, but Sean hasn’t necessarily applied this advice throughout his life. He’s been a social worker, a wedding officiant, a model, a director for commercial photo shoots, and an entrepreneur. His life story would make for a decent movie, with adventures that include working with refugees in Bangladesh, traveling around the world, buying and remodeling a castle, and splitting every month between Japan and Ireland for 15 years. During that period, he ran a commer-

sam-sophie.com

EvoluciÓn Animal A.C.

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Evolucion A.C. / Evolucion A.C. (English)

Conversation Sean Hennessy cial photography firm in Japan that worked with studios and brands around the globe. After the owner’s health deteriorated, it was decided that the business would fold. Sean went back to live full time in Ireland with Colm, his husband, but they soon found themselves out of reasons to remain there. They decided that they would travel for a while to look for a place that they both wanted to take root in. “At a friend’s wedding in Miami, something popped up about Mérida, which I’d never heard of.” Curiosity turned into an open ticket, which turned into an unhesitant decision to move for good. “Day One, I loved it.” After wandering for a while in his stories, we finally get to talk about the Hennessy Foundation, which was launched on St. Patrick’s Day 2022. “It’s our busiest day of the year, and we donated 100% of the sales to the foundation.” Throughout the years Hennessy’s has been open, Sean has made several donations to numerous charities from its profits. “I’ve liked doing that, but I was always of the opinion that I could do it in a better, more formal way, that would be more advantageous to both the business and to the people I give the money to.” That’s where the foundation comes in. How it works is, he takes the money that he is prepared to give, and he uses it to buy crafts, souvenirs, and clothing, which he then sells through the foundation for double the money spent and donates all of the proceeds to charity. He is also leveraging the bar’s popularity to get the word out about the foundation and involve more people. “Our clients are telling tourists and friends that if they want a souvenir, they should get it at Hennessy’s because we donate the money.” Currently, the Hennessy Foundation supports 10 different charities. Among them are Yucatán Giving Outreach (YGO), an umbrella charity with many initiatives; Sueños de Angel, an organization that provides support for impoverished kids with cancer; and two different street-animal neutering programs. “I invited three people who I respected, with qualifications in business, to be part of the foundation’s board.” The goal of the board is to ensure transparency. “People are giving you a lot of trust, and it’s very easy to abuse that trust. Ultimately, anyone will be able to access the foundation’s website and trace the money. Who donated it, how much, who received it, what they did with it, so there’s no question. You will even be able to see the actual invoices.” In the future, he wants to use his training as a social worker to build his own project and fund it through the foundation. He believes something could be done 16

“ Our clients are telling tourists and friends that if they want a souvenir, they should get it at Hennessy’s because we donate the money.”

about the kids who arrive from other states, looking for better opportunities. “I’d like to have a center with social workers that could back them up. They’re very vulnerable; most of them don’t have family here.” As he gives me a full tour of the pub, Sean talks about the future. He has recently remodeled an entire wing to expand its capacity. He shows no signs of slowing down. There is a plaque behind the bar that is an exact copy of one installed in Mexico City to commemorate Saint Patrick’s Battalion, a unit of mostly Irish soldiers who switched sides to defend Mexican soil during the Mexican-American war of the 19th century. “There’s this lovely, historic connection between Mexico and Ireland,” Sean says, mentioning Catholicism and drinking as two things that unite both countries. “Like a lot of Mexicans, we’re religious, but not really. We like the fun part of it.” The pandemic stalled Sean’s process of obtaining his Mexican citizenship, but since he has no plans of going anywhere, he is in no rush. After all, Hennessy’s is doing even better than before the pandemic and his work with the foundation is only starting. “You know how some people have their honeymoon period and then the novelty wears off? Not me,” he says about living in Mérida. And it sure looks like, after a lifetime of moving around, he’s found a home for good.  ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

For the bookshelf Juanita Stein »

French Braid by Anne Tyler

Hot off the press: the newest novel from Anne Tyler (Pulitzer Prize 1989 for Breathing Lessons). French Braid is a funny, joyful, brilliantly perceptive journey deep into one Baltimore family’s foibles, from a boyfriend with a red Chevy in the 1950s up to a longed-for reunion with a grandchild in our pandemic present. The Garretts take their first and last family vacation in the summer of 1959. They hardly ever leave home, but in some ways, they have never been farther apart. Mercy has trouble resisting the siren call of her aspirations to be a painter, which means less time keeping house for her husband, Robin. Their teenage daughters, steady Alice and boy-crazy Lily could not have less in common. Their youngest, David, is already intent on escaping his family’s orbit, for reasons none of them understand. Yet, as these lives advance across decades, the Garretts’ influences on one another ripple ineffably but unmistakably through each generation. Full of heartbreak and hilarity, French Braid is classic Anne Tyler, a stirring, uncannily insightful novel of tremendous warmth and humor that illuminates the kindnesses and cruelties of our daily lives, the impossibility of breaking free from those who love us, and how close — yet how unknowable — every family is to itself. Paperback, 256 pages, 456 pesos.

The Windsor Knot by SJ Bennett

What if the Queen solved crimes? It is the early spring of 2016 and Queen Elizabeth is at Windsor Castle in advance of her 90th birthday celebrations. But the preparations are interrupted by the shocking and untimely death of a guest in one of the castle bedrooms. When MI5 begins to question the household’s most loyal servants, Her Majesty knows they’re looking in the wrong place. For the Queen — away from the public eye and unbeknownst to her closest friends and advisers — has the most brilliant skill for solving crimes. With help from her assistant private secretary, Rozie Oshodi, the Queen discreetly begins making inquiries. As she carries out her royal duties with her usual aplomb, no one knows that the resolute Elizabeth won’t hesitate to use her keen eye, quick mind, and steady nerve to bring a murderer to justice. SJ Bennett captures Queen Elizabeth’s voice with skill, nuance, wit, and genuine charm in this imaginative and engaging mystery that portrays Her Majesty as she’s rarely seen: kind yet worldly, decisive, shrewd, and, most important, a superb judge of character. Paperback, 271 pages, 477 pesos. 

Juanita Stein owns the bookstore Between the Lines on the corner of Calle 62 and 53 in the Centro. Visit facebook.com/BetweenTheLinesMerida

Cities

This way to Campeche 18

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Campeche’s fort, built in the 1700s to protect the city against pirates, today a museum for the city..

seating on the street. Running from Puerta de la Tierra (the Land Gate) to Puerta del Mar (the Sea Gate), two of the four entrance nly about a two-hour drive gates to this walled city are on this pedesfrom Mérida, the picturtrian street. esque city of San Francisco A stroll through the charming streets of de Campeche, simply called Old Town makes for a lovely afternoon. A Campeche, offers a nice getvariety of handmade goods can be puraway. This UNESCO World Heritage City is chased here, including straw Panama and the only walled city in Mexico other hats made in the Yucatán. and bears some resemblance The walled fort makes This walled city to another walled city, CartaCampeche unique among Mexigena, Colombia. But this city is on the Gulf of co’s colonial cities. Mexico is filled on the Gulf coast in the Maya Two sections of the walls region of Ah-Kim-Pech. along with seven bastions with charm Entering the city, the remain from the original conand color. 2.5-km malecón running struction. It is possible to walk along the Gulf of Mexico is a Just don’t get along the top of the Baluarte de welcoming sight. It provides San Francisco walls. For a small locked in the a lovely seaside walk with fee, an attendant lets visitors walled fort. the statue of the Maya Angel in through a door with a set standing tall near the end. of stairs to climb. The colorful The obligatory tall, colorful letters spelling buildings, the tops of churches, and cannons out the city’s name also sit along the path, in parapets can be seen in a 365-degree view. attracting visitors stopping for selfies. The exit door is locked, and visitors must The main square, Plaza de la Indepenring a bell along the wall to be let out. dencia, dates to the 16th century. On the Other options to see in Campeche plaza, Our Lady of the Immaculate Concepinclude museums such as Museo Arquetion Cathedral stands tall. Around the plaza, ológico de Campeche, Fuerte de San Miguel, there are some stalls with snacks, and also Museo El Palacio, Museo de Arquitectura de restaurants, and stores featuring the work of Maya, and Museo de Arqueología Subartisans. There is even a large Tres Heracúatica Fuerte de San José. manos shoe store to stroll through. For lovers of Maya culture, about an The heart of the well-preserved city, Old hour outside Campeche, the beautiful and Town Campeche, boasts colorful colonial relatively unknown Maya ruins of Edzná, houses and cobblestone streets. Smaller meaning the House of the Itzaes, is a great than Mérida, Campeche has a relaxed and half-day trip. tranquil atmosphere. At the heart of Old Depending on the day of the week, there Town is Calle 59, a pedestrian-only street can be more iguanas around the ruins than with many restaurants and cafes with people visiting.  TEXT CLAIRE TYRPAK PHOTOS ANGEL ORTIZ / EYEEM

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

Food & Drink

La Paloma The refreshing national cocktail of Mexico is not the Margarita

pink Paloma is the best cocktail to quench your thirst. Considered Mexico’s national aperitif. It’s lighter than a Margarita and the perfect combination of sweet, sour, salt and a touch of bitterness. The Paloma, or “Dove” in English, is quick to make and can be served by the pitcher. Here is how I make them by the glass.

La Paloma cocktail 1 glass

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50 ml Tequila (Blanco or Reposado) 50 ml pink grapefuit juice Juice of a half a lime 15 ml agave nectar plash of grapefruit-flavored soda (Squirt, S Fresca, or Jarritos Toronja) Kosher salt

1. Rim your cocktail glass with fresh lime and kosher salt. 2. Mix the first four ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. 3. Strain into a glass filled with ice and top off with grapefruit soda. 4. Garnish with a slice of grapefruit or lime. Feel free to massage the recipe to your liking. —Melissa Adler

Hijos del maíz Authentic masterpieces in a rustic Mejorada restaurant

TEXT AND PHOTOS EDUARDO VÁZQUEZ

ccording to the Popul Vuh, the sacred book that recounts the Maya creation myth, the gods formed the first humans from yellow and white maize. In Aztec legend, the god Quetzalcóatl turned into a black ant in order to pass through the mountains, returning with a grain of corn to be planted. Thanks to the cultivation of corn, life changed forever and our ancestors’ civilization flourished. Pancho Maiz caught my attention from the first time I heard the name. Soon after, I headed to the corner of 46 and 59 in La Mejorada where this casual, rustic, and super authentic eatery is located. Seated facing the busy traditional kitchen, I watched how the antojitos mexicanos are made and could appreciate the importance of a particular ingredient that makes this foodie experience all the more worthwhile: maíz criollo. From Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Pancho Maiz serves sopes, tlacoyos, enchiladas, enmoladas, tostadas, and other delicious traditional dishes that are authentic masterpieces. It’s no exaggeration: just try the molotes (mashed plátano macho filled with a special cheese from Tabasco, topped with a delicious mole) or the chilaquiles—the best version I’ve had so far in Mérida—with free-range

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

chicken and egg, queso and crema de rancho, and a flavorful, tangy tomatillo sauce. The sopes are also delicious; a thick handmade tortilla with black beans and the topping of your choice: chicken, chicharrón prensado, or vegetables. To drink, I tried the traditional pinole made with corn, cinnamon, and toasted cacao. Don’t miss an opportunity to try a sophisticated, delicious native beverage. I quickly realized this was not just another Mexican food restaurant. There is a deep context to Pancho Maiz, and a clear manifesto: The recovery, dissemination, and transformation of maize and native products from the Yucatán Peninsula. All the processes at Pancho Maiz are carefully curated, from the selection of organic, pesticide-free corn from small Yucatecan family farms, to its preparation using the ancient traditional technique of nixtamalization. This process is time and labor intensive, but is key in creating the best flavor and preserving and optimizing the nutritional properties of the corn. Pancho Maiz also sells tortillas, ranch eggs, pinole, cheese, honey, and other local products sourced from local producers. A meal at Pancho Maiz proves the point that non-industrial, local food always tastes better. These are dishes Mexicans hold close to their hearts, and the reason we are known as los hijos del maíz. 

from Margarita via Whatsapp: 999-302-2077 Minimum order three dozen for 200 pesos. Need more? Add to your order at 75 pesos per dozen.

Stuffed Carrots with Nopal Serves 6-9 guests as an appetizer

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Brilliant botana A friend’s simple, flavorful appetizer

y friend Margarita has come up with what has become my favorite botana, or appetizer: Stuffed Carrots with Nopal. A lifelong Yucatecan, Margarita is an amazing cook and she has agreed to share this easy and economical recipe. Like so many dishes, simple ingredients in the hands of a patient cook result in OMG moments. If you’re not handy in the kitchen and want to impress your guests, you can order directly

1 kg Carrots 6 medium nopales ½ kg of bacon 1 medium onion Manchego or Gouda cheese

1. Cook the carrots in a pot with water and salt. 2. When they are cooked, peel and cut into sections about 2-3 cm (1 inch) and cut in half, lengthwise. 3. Scoop out the center core and set aside (to add to the stuffing or discard). For the filling: 1. Cut the onion, nopales, bacon and spare carrot cores into small strips and cook in a frying pan, starting with the nopales and then add the other ingredients, for 5-10 minutes. 2. Stuff the carrots and place on a baking sheet, sprinkle cheese on top and bake at 350°F / 177°C until the cheese is melted. Listo!

— Melissa Adler

ADVERTISEMENTw

So many ways to help.

Countless people in Yucatán rely on donations of clothing, blankets, and nonperishable food items. Can you volunteer your home as a drop-off spot for donations? Please help, and tell your friends. Contact Pedro Tec, peterajaw@yahoo.com 22

+52 999-354-3904 / Follow on Facebook

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

When the architects design for themselves A kitchen for friends A blank canvas for art that’s bigger than life

Yucatán at Home

TEXT LEE STEELE PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

he starting point at Casa Desnuda, or Naked House in English, is a bare rectangular block. There are lots of them, exposed throughout the private home of architects Victor Cruz and Atahualpa Hernández Salazar of Taller Estilo. Big decisions were made based on the proportion of that 20-by-40-centimeter block. But first things first. From the street, the Santiago property that has been Victor and Ata’s home since 2015 stands out for its giant climbing vines on the second floor. This hangs over a garage whose facade comprises various pieces of recycled wood, of various colors, from past projects. The home started with its challenges. After setting aside one area to build an income property, Victor and Ata were left with a 6.5-by-27.5 meter property that faces west, toward the punishing afternoon sun. Pockets of shaded garden space between the garage and the main house cool the property immediately. Walking through the garage, visitors are bathed in a cooling blue glow from the skylights. Once inside, the airflow is refreshing because the house goes vertical. On one side is a wall of windows that, when slid open, create a cooling breeze so strong that the gas stove is unusable because the flame flickers out. The architects sacrificed a meter of space to accommodate the air shaft.

Casa Desnuda

2 Taller Estilo architects find the formula for their own private quarters

Atahualpa Hernandez Salazar, left, and Victor Cruz, well-known architects in Mérida, relax after work in their own home in the Santiago neighborhood.

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

The rear of the main house has a dramatically tall folding glass door. It faces two sets of staircases that appear to reach the sky. Later, they were able to acquire the adjacent property in the rear, making an L-shaped lot. The new section contains a work-inprogress guesthouse. The floor, ceiling, and window modules are all in proportion, sized in ratio to the building blocks. The pool in the rear patio has a sly reference to Victor and Ata’s inspiration: A small decorative detail at the bottom of the pool, very easy to overlook, is a plain rectangular silhouette of such a block. Upstairs is a mezzanine with a handsome study. A door that leads outside to a rooftop herb garden anchored by the towering vines seen from the street. These, too, offset the hot afternoon sun. At the very top is the main bedroom-bathroom-terrace suite, a peaceful retreat in which to perch. When asked it if was hard to be their own clients, Victor answered with a resounding “Yesssss! It was terrible, actually.” Well-known in Mérida for building homes for over a decade, they put a lot of pressure on themselves to get it right. Not so much for their reputation, however, but for their own sense of contentment. “Since we were moving a lot,” Ata says. “I mean, before this house, we lived in five different houses, so we wanted a house that we can just settle and relax and say ‘OK, this is it, this is the house.’ ” What Victor and Ata like most about YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

Casa Desnuda’s garage door, which conceals the front entry door, was made of wood squares recycled from past work sites. Victor Cruz says when they were first installed, the wood pieces were much brighter. To the left is a rental house they also built on the same lot.

their place is the way it seems to call to them when they’re away. “All the time, we want to come back to the house,” Victor says. “When we come back from work we say, thank God we’re home.”  25

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Yucatán at Home

Marilyn’s kitchen

A two-part gathering space has a sly reference to Yucatecan ingenuity

TEXT FERNANDO ABREU PHOTOS EMMANUEL CASTILLO VALES

arilyn Rogers is someone who loves cooking and catering. She can be found hosting friends or sharing her cooking with neighbors (she doesn’t speak much Spanish, but food is an international language). So with this in mind, her kitchen was arranged in two spaces, explains her architect, Fernando Abreu: The first space as you enter the kitchen has an island with an overhead pot rack that serves as a gathering area where she can sit and talk to friends or serve food. The island holds cookbooks that she has gathered through the years. The second area is the main kitchen where the stove/ oven, sink, and refrigerator are located. The materials used for this kitchen are cedar wood painted in gray and black matte granite on the counters, giving it an elegant look. The floors are made of crema Maya, a local stone. One of the features of this kitchen is the cabinet doors that were designed based on the postigos (small windows) from the typical Yucatecan doors with screens on the back that allow for ventilation inside the cabinets to prevent humidity — a very common problem in these old houses made out of mampostería.  YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

Yucatán at Home

White space For a space to create his large-scale works, artist Randy Shull built a big, blank canvas TEXT LEE STEELE PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

wo doors from my house on the eastern edge of the historic center, there is a good-size residential property that had once contained a messy auto paint shop, and then a noisy, giant clandestine chicken coop. Then, the house was purchased by a much more agreeable neighbor. A year after completing construction, during which my curiosity became almost unbearable, North Carolina-based artist Randy Shull invited me in to see his new studio. Most of the property is an enormous, mostly enclosed white space —a far cry from what was there before. It’s ample, I assume, for the large-scale multimedia pieces in which Randy specializes. In its pristine, unspattered state, it resembled an art gallery more than an artist’s studio. I asked a nosy-neighbor question to start our brief conversation: Q: It’s a visual jolt when you come inside. Are you planning to change the facade or is that how it is? A: I’m won’t do anything for a while. Maybe in a couple of years. Q: Do you always work on multiple pieces at once? A: Yeah. This is right where I want to be, where there’s a lot of work happening at the same time and they all start talking to each other. Q: What is your process to get to this point? You start with nothing and you build it up? A: In this case, I did. Now that the floor is so big I can lay a lot of stuff out. I’m using hammocks as the body of the work. A hammock is the canvas. I lay it on the floor, and then I paint. Right now I have (pointing) this one I painted this morning. Two, three that I painted today, and I’m starting to work a little bit on it where I’m working on parts. It’s a little bit different than where I was a couple of weeks ago. Q: So it’s part of your process to work on multiple projects at once. A: Yeah, but it takes a lot of energy to get to this place where you have this thing going. Once you’re there, it’s hard to let go. 

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Randy Shull maintains a large warehouse studio in Asheville, N.C., and a mid-century modern home in Mérida, where he and his partner, Hedy Fischer, collect contemporary art. But Shull needed a roomier studio to create his own large-scale works. Construction began in early 2021 when he hollowed out a private home near Parque Santa Ana. He invited friends to inaugurate the studio a year later. He was most recently working on pieces that incorporate hammock materials, and the new space affords Randy plenty of space to spread out.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

Yucatán at Home

Bedroom

Pool

Garden

Living Room

Dining Room

Street

Beach

Terrace

Kitchen Bedroom

4 tips to consider before building on Yucatán’s Gulf coast

Just Beachy

Laundry

TEXT VERÓNICA GARIBAY PHOTOS LEO ESPINOSA

ew things are as enjoyable as a terrace overlooking the sea. But when it comes to maintaining that view year-round, there’s a lot to take into consideration if you want to keep your slice of paradise in the best possible condition. Architects around Yucatán are fluent in beach development. They know the best seasons, materials, and layouts to get the most bang for your buck while minimizing headaches. After building Xacumbé, a contemporary three-story beach home in Chicxulub, Garibay Arquitectos offers four tips to begin your thought process.

1. Build around the sun Perhaps you’d like your master bedroom to have a view of the sunrise. While this may be stunning, it will also mean your suite could be overwhelmed by the sun’s rays later in the day. Consider that there’s likely a good in-between point in terms of positioning. When it comes to the Yucatán’s Gulf coast, architects will often recommend that your property faces north, which here usually means the sea. Xacumbé plays around the sun to ensure the best views and temperature. Bedrooms look north — some to the sea, others to semi-indoor gardens. This positioning faces the beach, but shies away from direct light and ensures optimal air flow. Pay special attention to the placement of skylights and large windows. They may be visually striking, but will also heat the room considerably.

2. Rely on sturdy materials Wood décor, steel pieces, and lovely linens are all part of the minimalist beach aesthetic. But when it comes to maintenance, these materials have a hard time standing up to the coast’s salt and humidity. If you’re planning on living in your beach house all year, you may be able to get away with your selections with constant care and maintenance. But if this is a seasonal home, get robust materials. Faux woods are relished around Yucatán because they withstand humidity and are inexpensive to replace. But if you’re keen on 30

having the real deal, be sure to purchase local woods like tzalam or ciricote. These materials are more likely to defy the region’s weather and are often treated to endure these conditions further. For outdoor pieces, it’s synthetics all the way. Materials like aluminum, fiberglass, and resins give off a clean aesthetic without breaking the bank — and they are known to resist the intense sun of the Peninsula.

3. Storage, storage, storage What is the best, safest way to close up for a couple of months? Covers and sleeves for outdoor furniture might not cut it. Consider assigning a specific space so that you can store and protect all your outdoor valuables. This may mean appliances, furniture, or even a watercraft. Think about placing storage close to where your furnishings are usually stationed. You will save on back pains from lugging around heavy items, as well as costs associated to floor maintenance and damaged décor.

4. Embrace nature Many new homeowners are taking a stand to protect nature. Building is inherently destructive, so whatever we can do to help the land recover is a worthwhile effort. Think of the nature that existed on your plot before a shovel hit the sand. What we are trying to say is: plant it all back! Seagrapes, beach lilies, and pool tsakam, a protected cactus known for its stunning white flowers. These are all beautiful endemic species, perfect for creating a captivating private garden. Xacumbé favors the environment, not just in the outer dunes, but in a series of indoor “jungles” built around existing nature. With Yucatán’s minimalistic palette — which favors chukum, a beige plaster made from tree resin, and natural stone — splashes of green are a welcome break in the landscape. Have a deep discussion with your architect before building and let them know you need ample space for palm roots and seagrapes. The Yucatecan coast is wide, and wonderful plots still await. Begin practicing your beach development conversation skills and you’ll ensure an architectural gem on the shore.  ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Life on the Coast: A look at 5 of our favorite waterfront destinations on the Yucatán Peninsula

San Bruno

El Cuyo

Sisal

Isla Mujeres

Bacalar

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

Life on the Coast

Early arrivals

It was the 1980s and Massachusetts winters weren’t getting any warmer. So George and Pearl became among the first foreigners to come to this rustic stretch of Yucatán coast to build their dream house. More than 3 decades later, we see how their timing, and patience, paid off. 32

TEXT LEE STEELE PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

ollege professors George Ashley and Pearl Mosher-Ashley were still in their 40s and working in Western Massachusetts when the Yucatán coast started calling them. It was the mid-1980s and a university colleague who had been called upon to increase his Spanish skills so he could teach the language, took a sabbatical in Yucatán. The colleague fell in love with it, bought a coconut grove on the beach, and built a house. Whereas today the coast is practically packed with houses, there were virtually no neighbors back then. When he and his wife invited George and Pearl down to see their home in San Bruno on the Gulf Coast — it all looked pretty primitive, Pearl recalls. But they were set up with a real estate agent and ended up buying the triple-wide property next door. It stretches from the road to the beach. Such a property would be unaffordable to only the most well-paid, superstar college professors today. The hitch? No electricity, no water, no telephones. The dusty road outside was a lane and-a-half wide, transportation via bus was very limited. And supermarkets were still a few years off. They designed and built their own study house, which has stood the test of ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

The beach at San Bruno, and the house built by the Pearl Mosher-Ashley and George Ashley, in the 1980s. Left, the pair still resides on the property, which has since grown lush with trees and shrubbery that they planted themselves, and there are plenty of neighbors.

time, not to mention hurricanes, sun, and humidity. George took care of most of the repairs. “I got to learn the names of all the parts of a toilet,” he remembers. Before they got electricity eight years later, they made do with candles and kerosene lamps, which sounds romantic but wasn’t. “It attracted every insect known to man. I used to be covered with mosquito bites,” Pearl exclaims. They also had a propane-powered refrigerator, stove, and water heater. A generator from the States was dismantled and packed into two suitcases — back when packing strange objects was something a traveler could get away with. Phoning a friend in the 1980s was different than it is now, and in San Bruno, it YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

The park-like property the couple bought in the 1980s is immense by today’s standards. Below, the terrace still has unobstructed water views.

was even more of a challenge. “You had to go to Telchac and you had to go to a little corner store called La Guadalupana,” Pearl recalls. “They had the only phone that allowed an international call. The problem was that they would have to dial it for you, and you had to stand out in a corner of the store, where everybody was standing, listening to what you had to say.” “When they saw us come in, they would

gather in the store so they could hear the call,” George says. Why would people bother to listen to one side of a telephone conversation in a foreign language? Was there nothing else to do? “Exactly. Life was so boring!” says Pearl. One modern convenience they haven’t added is air conditioning. “Never! We haven’t needed it in over 30 years,” says Pearl. 

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Life on the Coast

Isla Mujeres Mexico at its most Caribbean

The turquoise water of Isla Mujeres near Garrafon Natural Reef Park. PHOTO: DARREN TIERNEY

TEXT CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

ust eight miles across from Cancún, Isla Mujeres feels a world away from Mexico’s premier tourism mecca. This is not to say that Isla Mujeres is some quaint or quiet little island. Far from it. The island is almost constantly abuzz with activity. But there is something different about Isla Mujeres. For starters, it is of course an island, which for some reason seems too often to almost magically create a more chill and laid-back atmosphere. Just ask Jimmy Buffett. Yet, there is something else. On my most recent visit, it dawned on me. Part of what makes Isla Mujeres so different is just how Caribbean it is. Of course, Mexico boasts hundreds of miles of the Caribbean coast, but almost all of it feels very much like Mexico — not that this is a bad thing. In Latin America and the Caribbean, Mexico is a cultural powerhouse, with the influence of its music, traditions, and festivals stretching far beyond its borders. But though Isla Mujeres is obviously Mexican, it is more common to hear rhythms of reggae steel drums rather than the strumming of a Mariachi’s guitarrón. This greater Caribbean influence is also noticeable in inhabitants who shun the mainland in favor of their 4.5-mile-long island. “Of course we are Mexicans, but we are Isleños first,” said a coconut vendor, Don Eladio, on Isla Mujeres’ Playa Norte. With some of the region’s best beaches, a unique history that stretches back thousands of years, and its hybrid Mexican Caribbean culture, it’s no wonder the siren song of Isla Mujeres is so powerful.  YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

PHOTOS: DALLAS STRIBLEY

Investing here Residential inventory is tight. Luxury detached homes and even some condos with boat slips at Isla Mujeres range from the millions on the beach to around US$500,000 for an inland house with distant water views from an upper terrace. On one local real estate website, all three condos priced under US$300,000 were nothing fancy, but had nice water views and were under contract. 35

Life on the Coast

Bacalar A Mérida artist’s private refuge on the famed lagoon of 7 colors TEXT LEE STEELE PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

érida-based artist Katrin Schikora still manages to find refuge in Bacalar, 15 years after she purchased a parcel of land about 30 minutes north of the town’s tourist hub. She mainly camped there with friends until a few years ago when she designed and built Casa Refugio. To find the cabin, our car bounced around on miles of pitted dirt roads past pineapple fields and untamed jungle. The entryway was unmarked except for an ornate garden gate that indicates the beginning of a path. Nestled in foliage with large mosquito-screen walls around the sala and topped with a thatched roof, the home is the kind of calming space that every creative person I’ve ever met says they crave. Casa Refugio was erected in the woods, but a gravel path leads to a simple dock and hammock to enjoy an unspoiled water view

Above: Her dog Otto in tow, Katrin Schikora escapes Mérida when she can for the privacy of her rustic and naturalistic hideaway in Bacalar. Right, the downtown is filled with restaurants and the remains of Saint Felipe Fort along the famed lagoon.

of this side of the lagoon. “My whole life is conceived here, my plans for the future, my projects. Really I come here just to disconnect and have a clear mind, and inspiration just comes,” Katrin says. It’s a lucky person to own a piece of Bacalar, which is about four hours from Mérida. Properties are in short supply, but boutique hotels and eco-resorts are not. One upscale place south of downtown just made the Condé Nast Traveler “Hot List.” Closer to our funky Airbnb in the town center, more low-key, urban-style accommodations are popping up. The buzz about Bacalar being the “next Tulum” has been going on for years. It’s not a compliment. Still, the main attraction remains unique: its languid, 26-mile-long freshwater “Lagoon of Seven Colors,” But Bacalar depends on the roughly 200,000 tourists is greets annually. So about 40 miles south, an airport expansion has begun while the so-called Mayan Train will eventually stop in Bacalar’s downtown to connect it to Cancún and many other tourist destinations on the Peninsula. Its hues, which ranged from deep-sea indigo to sunset violet, seem to be returning after 2020’s damaging rainy season. The lagoon’s “seven colors” are attributed to million-year-old reef-like microorganisms that fuse with white limestone. Seems like something you wouldn’t want to diminish.  ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Bacalar’s lagoon remains clear and colorful while the town’s center attracts more tourists.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

Life on the Coast

From left, a marina unnoticed by most other visitors was practically all ours. Fresh mangoes were plentiful on the street, but we preferred ours atop crispy fish tacos at Katx on the lagoon. On our final day, a quiet breakfast in Enamora’s courtyard fortified us for the trip home.

We came, we saw, we ate TEXT AND PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

uch has changed in Bacalar since I first visited over 10 years ago, including the food, which was never bad, but certainly limited and often underwhelming. Rolling into the town recently from Mérida, having skipped breakfast and not stopping on the way, the three of us were famished. We settled into the first place we saw, an attracwater, the rays of the sun doing away with almost Right after tive, contemporary restaurant facing the main square. every hint of moisture in mere minutes. As I sat down we ordered, As I was in no mood to meditate over the options on the to enjoy my meal, an invigorating cool breeze made its the call of the way across the lagoon and to our table. It was permenu, I simply went ahead and ordered a tried and true favorite — chilaquiles. water became fection. Everything we ordered was wonderful, but Admittedly this Mexican breakfast staple is rather the tempura shrimp and calamari were particularly too much for hard to mess up too badly, but truly getting it just right exquisite, going down beautifully with a cold Pacifico is tricky. It involves achieving the right balance of salsa beer. We got a little carried away and were too full me, so I took (usually verde or roja) and cream, while not making the for dinner, so at night we wandered into an ice cream off my shirt, tortilla chips soggy to the point where they lose their parlor near the square for a small dessert. We carried ran off to the crunch. Savora Bakhalal pulled it off flawlessly. our cones across the plaza, which is being transAfter a few hours of walking around, it was time formed from a nondescript park into a much more lagoon, and to find some shade and have a beer. We made our way contemporary space. Work was still underway when went for a into La Playita, on the banks of the lagoon, thinking we we passed through, but it looked very promising. The dip off the would just get some drinks and nibble on some comvibe was calm and peaceful. plimentary tortilla chips. We quickly changed our tune The next night, we decided to continue seeking out restaurant’s as the sights and smells on the waiter’s trays hastily more relaxing venues. For a nightcap, we decided on the sizable pier whizzed by. marina next door to what had become a loud scene at while the Right after we ordered, the call of the water became La Playita. It was a much more basic bar, nothing fancy, too much for me, so I took off my shirt, ran off to the but we practically had the entire dock to ourselves. food arrived. lagoon, and went for a dip off the restaurant’s sizable Other fantastic meals during this trip included pier while the food arrived. There is no better swimsome out-of-this-world seafood tacos at Katx served ming on earth to be had than in Bacalar’s lagoon. I am unsure if this with blue corn tortillas, as well as a Scandinavian-style open-faced comes down to the silky smoothness of the fresh water, the lagoon’s sandwich for breakfast on our last day at a trendy little breakfast undeniable beauty, or its temperature which always seems to be joint called Enamora, on the edge of the shopping zone. exactly right regardless of the time of day or year. A tip of the hat to Bacalar’s restaurants. Not a single mediocre Seeing the waiter make his way to the table, I sprang out of the meal was had during the entirety of this wonderful three-day trip. 

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Life on the Coast

Sisal

This Gulf Coast jewel may be too perfect for its own good TEXT AND PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

isal has some of the best pristine white-sand beaches, not just in Yucatán, but anywhere. Also, unlike much of the Caribbean coast, Sisal has virtually no sargassum — the mounds of seaweed that wash ashore on the Caribbean and Florida coasts — obviously a major plus. And then there is the delicious fresh seafood which truly merits an article of its own. But as a Yucateco, my first reaction to the increased attention it has received is abject horror. Though I understand that this prospect may be exciting for others.

Real estate At first glance, Sisal still appears to be a modest, unspoiled fishing village. But a search online for Sisal real estate shows a planned seven-story condo tower, with units on pre-sale up to US$500,000. That’s as much as you can expect to pay for a beachfront home, as well. A handful of building lots — not necessarily beachfront — are also listed online, and prices recently ranged from US$16,000 to around US$75,000. YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

“Oh no! Influencers have discovered Sisal,” said my friend Roque as we witnessed a couple of bikini-clad women dancing for a TikTok video. Sisal’s reputation has also attracted aficionados of many activities including kiteboarding, kayaking, and fishing. Now there are several reasons why Sisal is in fact very unlikely to become the next big thing. But the main point is, although it is only one hour away from Mérida, it’s a world away from the hundreds of incoming flights to Cancún. But to play devil’s advocate, on my most

recent visit I was taken aback by how much Sisal has changed over the course of the past couple of years. Its streets and beach are now lined with restaurants, and fishermen offering tours. A “swanky” feeling has surfaced that has never been there before. Its central plaza, fort, and lighthouse are immaculately painted, and even on a particularly hot Monday in May, were buzzing with activity. But last year’s designation by tourism authorities of Sisal as Yucatán’s newest Pueblo Mágico, or magical town, has been controversial. Though locals depend on the tourism economy, they really don’t want their community to turn into another plastic resort city. “The Peninsula already has Tulum, Playa del Carmen, and all the others. This is a fishing town that attracts tourism, not the other way around,” said Manuel Canto, a local fisherman and tour guide. Civic, environmental, and even religious organizations have gone as far as requesting that the federal government reverse the declaration. The most tangible result they have seen from the decree has been an increase in their power bills because of rezoning. The rise in attention has also driven up real estate prices exponentially, not just in Sisal but in the entire region. But fortunately, the price of staying in its plentiful hotels and rentals is still quite reasonable. Ultimately striking the right balance between tourism development and preserving Sisal’s charms comes down to locals, visitors, and developers alike. Because regardless of official designations, Sisal is and always has been something magical.  39

Life on the Coast

El Cuyo Poor Internet, limited shopping, dull nightlife — what’s not to love? TEXT MAGGIE ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

quality. Recently, small burger joints, pizza places, and more have been added to the Yucatecan and seafood culinary offerings. The town is famous for its buñuelos and chupitos (a freeze pop made with natural fruit), and for its quaint, colorful wooden houses and cabins. But it is somewhat secluded, and certain items might not be available on certain days. Also, air conditioning is not a given here. Be respectful. I was blown away by how clean the beach is. So bring a trash bag to pick up after yourself, because there are not many bins. Also, the vibe is very relaxed, so leave the stereo speakers at home. Feel free to bring a book instead or try kite surfing with one of the local schools that offer lessons for every age. Not every beach has to be packaged for mass consumption. El Cuyo still proves that point.  LAURA SÁNCHEZ

ight before I moved to California in 2020, my best friend Laura and I decided to take a girls’ trip. We wanted to go somewhere neither of us had been and set our minds on El Cuyo as the destination for my last hurrah in my home state. Now, I have been to every beach in Yucatán, and I know that this term gets tossed around a lot, but I have to say it: El Cuyo is unique. Why? I think that it’s because it is the last secluded beach in Yucatán. Cell phone signals can be spotty and you won’t find ATMs, gas stations, clubs, or even an Oxxo. What you will find are immaculate white-sand beaches — honestly, the cleanest I have seen anywhere — locally run hotels and restaurants, and numerous kite surfing schools. Things wind down around 10 p.m. when most of the eateries shut down for the night. Our trip was an absolute joy, but part of it came down to preparation: we knew what we signed up for. While planning, I realized that we have come to expect certain items and services. But finding a destination like El Cuyo today is a rare privilege, and it should be guarded, respected, and protected. This is particularly important when we consider recent reports that larger-scale developments are planning to set up shop in the village. So, what should you keep in mind and what should you avoid to make the most out of your El Cuyo experience? Also, how can you help preserve this destination? Plan accordingly. Bring any special snacks and drinks that you can’t live without, and come with a full tank of gas. But most importantly, bring enough cash in small bills so that you can support the community with your purchases and generous tips. Financial security is paramount for the conservation and sustainability of small destinations. Be flexible. The food and hospitality options are charming and of fabulous

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

LAURA SÁNCHEZ

GERMAN SCHAUB

Property buyers’ tip Before you think of El Cuyo as a possible place to live or invest, you should know that its community is extremely tight-knit. Newcomers are welcome, but they are expected to follow the rules, particularly if they wish to set up a business. Because of the predatory practices of many “investors” in the area, citizens are understandably protective when someone comes in and sets up shop. YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

LATE JUNE

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full oWith f nYucatán aturMagazine al beaEditor utyCarlos and archaeology. Rosado van der Gracht For more information visit YucatanMagazine.com/tours

YucatanMagazine.com/tours 42

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

HOMES LAND PROPERTIES AND PROFESSIONALS

Hacienda living in the city Page 44

PLUS: Casona 66: A colorful oasis awaits Page 46

Sound reasons for going solar Page 50

Earn 5-star reviews from vacationers Page 52 SPONSORED CONTENT

No. 5

Luxury Listing

Urban hacienda

Listing agent Robert Abuda explains why this elegant Santa Ana home sold quickly By Lee Steele

shelves. In the rear is a relaxing pool and two terraces. This space is perfect for entertaining, especially if grilling is your thing. In between, a grand colonnade anchors the entire home and allows guests — and the air — to circulate freely, said Abuda, a top agent at Mérida Living. Off the netted breezeway is a separate dining room that connects the front rooms to the large eat-in kitchen with a huge granite-covered island with seating for four. The main bedroom, with a large en-suite, is off the den. A guest bedroom is also on the ground floor; another one is upstairs, complete with its own bath. Sweetening the deal was the fact that the furniture was included. 

o wonder Casa Jacqueline went under contract quickly. The buyers saw no need to leave the art, food, and music of Mérida’s vibrant Santa Ana neighborhood to live luxurious “hacienda style.” The home on Calle 66 has the wide arched doorways, high beamed ceilings, and stately columns that are the hallmarks of a classic colonial home in Yucatán, according to listing agent Robert Abuda. This large and well-appointed three-bedroom, three-bath home greets visitors first with a gated front courtyard with that rare private and secure parking space. Inside, one immediately glimpses a cozy library in the front part of the house. The handsome bookcase even has its own rolling ladder to reach the top

Robert Abuda of Mérida Living Real Estate

To sell your home or see listings, contact Robert Abuda at Mérida Living Real Estate: email robabuda@gmail.com; cellphone 999-261-6001. ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Luxury Listing

Casa Jacqueline Property size: 4,661 square feet 8.72 meters wide / 60 meters deep Living Area: 4,122 square feet Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 Amenities include: Air conditioning, laundry room, reverse osmosis water system Offered at: US$589,000 Status: Under contract See more listings by Robert Abuda at meridalivingrealestate.com

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

Luxury Listing

Colorful casona

An unbelievable oasis awaits in the heart of bustling Centro Histórico Casona 66 By Lee Steele

et away from it all just two blocks from Mérida’s main square. But you need a real casona — a grand home in the city — to do it. Casona 66 is close to everything in Centro Histórico, Mérida’s ground zero for everything grand and historic. This casona was built in the 1700s, and property records show that in 1903, the house sold for $3,000 MX. In 1938, the house was purchased for a 13-year-old girl by her parents, most likely for her dowry. In more recent history, the property was brightened with festive colors and modern amenities, suitable for residents who like to entertain, or who dream of opening a guesthouse. If you choose, the latter, permits are already in place. The centerpiece of this home is its beautiful

courtyard with fountain, fish pond, and bar area. It sits alongside an elegant, spacious dining room. There is also a wonderful chef’s kitchen with a Smeg range, dishwasher, microwave, refrigerator, large walk-in pantry, custom cabinets, and quartz counter tops — all included. All five bedrooms have en-suite bathrooms, ceiling fans, air conditioning, and generous storage. The master bathroom has a tub and separate shower. Casona 66’s soaring staircase is under a glass roof and embellished with an amazing mural by a well-known Yucatecan artist. Continuing to the rear of the property, an L-shaped pool and terrace provides a hideaway in the center of the city. Two leased covered parking spaces are close by.  Contact Shawn Ebrahimi at Mexico International: email shawnke01@gmail.com; WhatsApp / cellphone +1-530-306-0085.

Property size: 17.8 meters wide / 30.5 meters deep Living Area: 5,386 square feet Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 6 Amenities include: 35 solar panels, solar-heated pool, reverse osmosis water system, air conditioning, 2 leased parking spaces Offered at: US$799,000 Learn more at mexintl.com, Property Number 5996 ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Luxury Listing

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

“ No matter how complicated, no matter how silly or whatever their request is, whether it be looking for a house or overseeing construction, or renting your house, come to us, and we take care of everything.” — Adam Hoggie, Mexican Time

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Adam Hoggie | Mexican Time

A one-stop shop for expats in Yucatán

dam Hoggie just wants to make life easier for expats in Yucatán. “I really started this because everyone’s been getting massive headaches with everything here, from car rental to buying a house. It seems to be hard to get anything done properly,” says Adam. The business he started is called Mexican Time — Expat Services, a new Mérida-based option for foreigners who invest here but need someone to help pave their path. Doing it without help from a seasoned helpmate can be frustrating. “When expats land here, they don’t realize, when someone says they’ll meet you at 9 o’clock Monday morning for a house viewing or other business commitment, more times than not, no one turns up at 9 o’clock Monday,” Adam says. Social media is overrun with complaints about scammers and incompetent or unreliable service providers. But Mexican Time exists to connect their clients’ projects with the area’s best professionals, all with proven track records. Mexican Time’s car rental business was the first arm of the operation to be introduced. And despite all the competitors in Mérida, Adam has had trouble keeping up with demand. From there, he’s gone into a broader array of services. So after years of establishing his own life here, the Australian native has gathered a team who can expedite property buying, home inspection, transportation needs, legal and immigration services, and even monetizing your house with rental income. “My brother and I did some construction up in Caucel when we first got here,” Adam recalls. “We went through a lot of builders until we met one of my brother’s friends. He was quite a good builder and reliable, so we kept in contact and always looked after him.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

It’s all who you know here.” Since leaving Australia, Adam has lived in the Philippines, Colombia, the United States, and Canada — and he’s very comfortable wrangling with local service providers to get value for money. Following his brother to Mérida, Adam saw a business opportunity in all the dysfunction. “I came here and saw the need during our construction, and a year ago, we began to develop a business around it,” Adam says. “We started in February this year, so it’s new, but it’s been a lot more successful than I even thought it would be. I just want to provide expats here with an easy one-stop shop.” His laid-back nature and a policy against huge up-front fees have worked well for Mexican Time. Adam is enthused with the reception he’s received early on. “Everyone I’ve dealt with says that working with us is very, very easy,” Adam says. “The expats are great people. They’re just here to have a good life and enjoy themselves. I actually enjoy the work because I get to meet new people.” The services Mexican Time offers are not limited to what he lists on his Facebook page @mexicantimemid. “No matter how complicated, no matter how silly or whatever their request is, whether it be looking for a house or overseeing construction, or renting your house, come to us, and we take care of everything,” Adam says. His group has the right team to handle a variety of issues related to an expat’s investment in Yucatán. “You can’t just throw money at a problem, and it’s fixed,” he adds. “We just make life easier for you.”  Contact Mexican Time on Facebook @mexicantimemid or 999-223-4037. Learn more at mexicantimemerida.com 49

Erich Briehl | Bulldog Solar

Green energy in sunny Yucatán is only natural

rich Briehl considers all the miles of miles of empty, flat roofs baking under Yucatán’s constant sunshine. These rooftops in Yucatán — where over 300 days a year are sunny, but where conventional energy costs are high — are crying out for solar panels. Maybe also a palapa bar, but mainly solar panels. “The bottom line is, if you have a house here, and you have a roof here with nothing on it, why are you not doing solar?” Erich says. This green-energy option saves money and helps the environment. And since 2016, Erich’s company, Bulldog Solar, has been by far the leading provider of solar-energy systems to expats. How did he achieve this when so much competition swirling about? His first clients were a trial by fire: a pair of well-known bloggers with a large home in the Centro, and possibly the city’s most famous hangout for the international community, the sprawling Hennessy’s Irish Pub on the Paseo Montejo. If he had failed, the community would know about it. But both installations went swimmingly and the gregarious entrepreneur was off to a strong start. Word spread quickly that there was a trustworthy company with a talented crew who could cut energy bills dramatically. It’s not just that Canadian-born Erich is a native English speaker, although that helps him connect to customers with minimal Spanish skills. He’s been a high-profile resident of Mérida since 2009 when his Bulldog Group was mainly promoting local activities through his own video portal. Still, when offering a major project like solar-energy systems, he had to earn the trust of the expat community. And he quickly did. In the past five-plus years, Bulldog Solar has earned consistent five-star reviews on Facebook (facebook.com/BulldogSolar) and customers heaped praise on Erich for his straightforward communication and integrity. The idea to begin Bulldog Solar started in 2014 when he hired a local company to install a system on his house. “We needed a way of getting our electric bill down. Solar made things a lot more

manageable and comfortable,” Erich recalls. He had a short stint with that company. “I saw what business was like up close.” And with the encouragement of friends, he branched off on his own — hiring a certified engineer and making sure he was always surrounded by experts, not just work-for-hire labor, Erich says. “I wanted professionals running it, so I sought out professionals from UTM, a local university in the south. Jorge, who I hired first, is still with me to this day,” Erich says. “He has basically been a godsend and a very rare find as an engineer and also a good work companion. He has provided employees who are like-minded, who believe in doing a good job and delivering good service, being responsible for their work, and not letting a client down.” Erich advises that anyone with a CFE bill over 2,000 pesos a month would benefit from investing in solar. “If you’re an air-conditioner-heavy user, absolutely you should get solar,” Erich advises. One more recent large client was the eight-room boutique hotel Julamis in Santa Lucia. After 40 panels were installed in 2019, the investment has already paid for itself. “They had a very significant bill in the 19,000 - 20,000 peso range (around US$1,000 every two months), and a one-time hit in the 30,000 pesos range,” Erich recalls. “Now their bills are a couple of hundred pesos, up to 1,000 pesos when the guests blast the air conditioning.” After several customers asked for it, air conditioning installation and maintenance was recently added to Bulldog’s repertoire. A dirty air mini-split spreads mold and dust, and should be cleaned regularly. Erich has a introductory offer for basic cleaning: 450 pesos per air conditioner unit up to 36,000 BTUs. That is roughly half what competitors charge. Becoming the owner of a solar company was unexpected, yet happened organically. Erich thinks back to when Bulldog Group, Erich’s original company, “was just something to do, to keep me busy. It has grown into something I didn’t think I was ever going to do. I think Bulldog Solar kind of found me.” 

Learn more and contact Bulldog Solar at bulldogsolar.com, 999-960-4450, bulldogsolar@gmail.com

ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

“ The bottom line is, if you have a house here, and you have a roof here with nothing on it, why are you not doing solar?” — Erich Briehl, Bulldog Solar

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 5

Fall in love this summer.

With over 350 loyal, adorable, affectionate, loving dogs at Evolución

waiting for a home of their own, you’re sure to fall in love with one. Change someone’s life forever and enrich yours.

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Pro Tips

A 5-star experience for the senses By Cory Gash

f you are an owner of a vacation rental home, then you know the importance of getting good reviews. Anything less than five stars can lose the attention of every future potential guest who reads the reviews before booking your rental. So how does an owner obtain good reviews? The most obvious answer is to care about the experience of your guests. Make a point to engage their senses — sight, smell, hearing, and touch. The first and most basic requirement is to ensure that the property is clean. Visually, there is nothing more off-putting when you enter your vacation property than the sight of dirt and garbage from the last guest. The home must also smell clean. If the guest can detect cigarette smoke from the last guest, then they will think the home is dirty. Freshly mopped floors or pleasant air fresheners will put your guest into the right mindset at the beginning of their stay. First impressions are everything. Next, think about what you need when you are traveling. The basics include a good mattress, high quality sheets and pillows, fluffy towels, comfortable seating, good shower pressure, and ample hot water. All of these must feel luxurious. A guest wants to

Let them know that you are working to ensure that their vacation is unforgettable. be pampered when on vacation. Don’t let your home disappoint them. Then move to the features that you appreciate such as a fast Wi-Fi that extends through the entire home, a coffee maker complete with coffee, a Bluetooth speaker so that the guest can play their own music, as well as basic cooking needs. And what makes vacation time truly special? A nice pool, concierge amenities, and personal touches to make the home memorable. A well-researched guide with recommendations on restaurants and

sights will be appreciated. Guests often have never been to the area and might be overwhelmed with the options. Point them in the right direction. If problems arise during the stay, then respond promptly and courteously. As property owners, you know the constant maintenance required on homes here in Mérida. Try to address the issue within a few hours when possible. A small gift like a bottle of wine will go a long way to smoothing over any bumps. Remember that much of the guest experience will depend on the attentions of your staff, so select your staff carefully, train your staff well, and compensate them fairly. Your staff is an extension of your business. They must work as hard to ensure its success. Finally, don’t forget the personal touch. Put a face to the online name. Greet your guests personally and be attentive to their needs. Respond to their inquiries and concerns promptly and thoughtfully. Let them know that you are working to ensure that their vacation is unforgettable. Treat your guests as you would like to be treated when on vacation and the five-star reviews will follow!  Cory Gash is one of the owners of Burro y Flauta Vacation Homes, which has served thousands of vacationers over the last seven years.

Melissa Adler Buyer’s Agent

Find Englishspeaking customers who found Yucatán Foreign residents, expats, gringos, the international community. Whatever you want to call the English-speaking folks who are investing here, Yucatán Magazine is platform to connect with them.

Unbeatable exposure for your brand. Our targeted print distribution includes 4,000 color, glossy printed copies sent to paid subscribers in the US, Canada, and Mexico and offered free in over 300 boutique hotels, guesthouses, and rental homes in Yucatán. This is backed up by local daily content for 63,000 monthly visitors at yucatanmagazine.com and a weekly newsletter with 5,000 subscribers. We appeal to an audience that appreciates Yucatán for its beauty, its culture, its possibilities. That’s why our platform enjoys the market’s highest social-media reach in English with nearly 27,500 followers.

Me r i da Livin g B eyo n d Re a l Estate Cell: 999 118 9351 melissa.meridaliving@gmail.com meridalivingrealestate.com

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Framed | Juan Batta

Against the wall

For Juan Batta, art was always there. In fact, you could say it was there from the very beginning: in his genes. His parents met at La Esmeralda, one of the most prestigious art schools in Mexico City. They both went on to have careers as painters and visual artists, in the midst of which Juan was born. As a child, he would attend exhibitions and the after parties that followed. He grew up among art conversations, in an environment that he describes as bohemian. It is no surprise that, as far as his memory can trace back, he was always drawing. “It was my way of relating to the world,” he recalls. “Even today, I still carry a notebook and pencil everywhere I go.” After a failed attempt to get into film school, Juan picked up oil painting. When he realized that he could make a living by selling his work, his very own path as an artist began. After a few years, he moved to Campeche in an attempt to shake things off from what he felt was a period of stagnation. This 56

is the place where he first got into muralism, a discipline that would revive his love of art. “The kind of painting I used to do was a representation of reality. Murals gave me the opportunity of exploring more fantastic and allegorical visuals. When you are painting a mural, it is a much more physical, more thrilling experience. The strokes are fullbody movements,” Batta says. Science fiction is a major theme in his work. Obsessed with what a dystopian future might look like, Juan dreams of developing a full Mexican cyberpunk aesthetic. For the past few years, Juan has made a name for himself in Mérida, where he has worked mostly on assignment for bars and restaurants. He is constantly on the lookout for disrupting experiences that will spark inspiration. “A trip, even a tragedy. As an artist, you can’t afford to stick to a routine-driven life. You should always be looking out for experiences.”  Facebook: @/juanbatta1984 Instagram: @paleo_borax_ ISSUE 5 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

EVERY CITY NEEDS A GOOD BURGER JOINT

/ flamanteburgers

Calle 64 x 47 Centro, Merida

Casona 66 $799,000 usd Listing 5996

SEE STORY INSIDE FOR MORE DETAILS Pages 46-47

Yucatán Magazine / Issue 5 / Coastal Cool: The Beach Issue

Articles inside

Juan Batta: Against the wall

Professional Profile: Erich Briehl, Bulldog Solar

Professional Profile: Adam Hoggie, Mexican Time

Colorful casona

Early arrivals

A blank canvas for Randy Shull

Casa Desnuda: 2 architects at rest