Yucatán Magazine / Issue 6 / The What's New Issue by Yucatán Magazine

the WHAT ’ S NEW i ssue

A snowbird’s field guide to the fresh culinary, cultural and social scene that has taken root while you were away.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

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No. 6  MEXICO $100

» A New Home

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Make a Mindful Move to Mexico

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Join us for a 3-day workshop that explores the culture, the customs and everyday life in Yucatán. PRODUCED IN COOPERATION WITH

ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Yucatán Relocation Workshop relocationworkshop.com

Enrich the next stage of your life. Our Relocation Workshops begin with a tour of Mérida’s most

{ R E L O Cdistinctive A T I neighborhoods. O N W OOverRthe K ensuing SHO Pdays, } local experts and long-time internathree tional residents will share their own experiences about day-to-day living in Mexico, and give

A Mindful Move to Mexico

their take on the culture and traditions that drew them specifically to Yucatán. We’ll tour city and beach properties, then go on an excursion to an ancient Maya city and the adjacent rural community. There, we’ll immerse in millennia-old traditions and enjoy a meal. Each workshop is capped at 20 attendees, ensuring an intimate, rewarding and easygoing experience for all.

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JANUARY 6-8

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4 Editorial: Everything, everywhere is new 6 Just Asking: D’oh I did it again! 7 Ask a Yucateca: Changes in society 8 Seen: We’re obsessed with breeze blocks; your own private cantina

Director Lee Steele lee@roofcatmedia.com Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht carlosrosado@roofcatmedia.com Marketing Yesica Benitez yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com Editorial Consultant Pablo Arroyo Díaz Creative Consultant Eduardo Vázquez Circulation Alejandro Pinto Tolosa ADDITIONAL CONTRIBUTORS Fernando Almazan César Béjar Yesica Benitez Abraham Bojórquez Maggie Cale Ravi Khalsa Cory Gash Hannah Hudson Maggie Rosado van der Gracht Juanita Stein Claire Tyrpak Joanna van der Gracht de Rosado Eduardo Vázquez Neil Youngson Subscriptions subscriptions.yucatanmagazine.com Advertising & General Information info@roofcatmedia.com

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AÑO 2, NÚMERO 6 Todos los derechos reservados por Roof Cat Media S de RL de CV, Calle 84, 278 x 59C y 59D Fraccionamiento Las Américas, Mérida, Yucatán, CP 97302. Prohibida la reproducción total o parcial del contenido sin autorización previa y por escrito de los editores. La revista asume que el material aquí presentado es original y no infringe derechos reservados de ley. Reserva de derechos de uso exclusivo del título. Yucatán at Home no se hace responsable por el contenido de sus anunciantes. PRINTED IN YUCATÁN, MEXICO

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First Person: After 5 years, what I’ve learned Profile: Why Tania and Roberto are returning Books: Photogenic flamingos Food & Drink: Bird is the Word Getaways: Return to Chiapas

Yucatán at Home 24 A fairytale staircase two dreams are made of 26 Weekend retreat COVER STORY

29 What’s New Have global events kept you away the last couple of years? Welcome back to an entirely new Yucatán.

47 Yucatán Homes & Land

ontecristo villa made for friends and family M lano: Paving the way for easier property purchases P Pro Tips: Architect or Contractor?

55 Marketplace 56 Framed Marisol Castro: Stories from La Ermita

PHOTO: CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

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YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

Editorial

What’s new? Everything, it seems

f this magazine was kind of a “pandemic project,” so are a lot of the shops, galleries, and restaurants in the Centro. Mérida and the beach are not what they were. Yucatán’s resilience was obvious the moment I first came here 12 years ago. The way its history and traditions have remained alive and vibrant. The way it attracts so many innovative people, not just the type of avant-garde creatives celebrated in the New York Times and Vogue, but also the entrepreneurs who have transformed our streets. Anyone forced to stay away the last couple of years will see even more transformation, for better or for worse. The arrival of new blood creates tension with the city’s standard-bearers. Sometimes we’re sad to see something go — think Flor de Santiago, the city’s oldest coffeehouse, now a nightclub for young patrons. But sometimes the change is inevitable. On Calle 47 and 64, my beloved, crumbling Coca-Cola sign marking a

The “Coca-Cola wall” in 2011. Who would dare remove it?

corner tiendita is gone. In the early 2000s, it was in an exquisite stage of decay, replete with the original rocks showing through the plaster. Maybe once it was a crass advertisement, but time had mellowed its colors and the crumbling wall gave it an aura of nostalgic melancholy. By the time the abandoned property was being renovated and prepared for its first new tenant in years, the Coca-Cola sign had passed the stage where it looked pretty. Even still, I was sad to see the wall cemented over and painted. That new tenant turned out to be Flamante Burgers, which had raised the bar for a north-of-the-border staple. My family fell in love with the food and atmosphere. Sometime after that, I gradually became friends with the owner, Eduardo Vázquez, who later became one of the first supporters of this magazine, well before its first publication date. So sometimes, progress is good. Mérida’s progress — both good and bad — was accelerated by the pandemic, and inspired our “What’s New” issue, which we intend to make a yearly theme. Welcome back. 

Lee Steele Director, Yucatán Magazine lee@roofcatmedia.com

ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

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Just Asking Oops, I did it again:

We asked our Facebook followers: Assuming you’re from another country but you like to think you’ve mastered the art of living in Yucatán, what everyday occurrence still trips you up?

“I still have to scrutinize my coins. Even though I can basically tell a 10 from a 5 peso coin, I still hold it up to the light to make sure it says diez.”

“Forgetting to carry change for small purchases or tips.”

“Skipping my Spanish lessons. No bueno.”

“Scheduling errands in the afternoon sun, even in summer. I’m just a glutton for punishment.”

“Walking on the sunny side of the street when there’s shade on the other side.”

“I keep assuming the green sauce is a mild pesto.”

“I keep forgetting that a kilo is more than two pounds, so I accidentally ordered more salami from the deli than I can eat in a lifetime. Lesson learned.” ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Ask a Yucateca Yesica Benitez

Kisses and hugs? Social norms in Yucatán have shifted around, but much has also remained the same

People in Yucatán are very warm and greetings usually included a kiss on the right cheek and a big hug, but is this still a thing?

A: The warmth of Yucatecans is still very much alive, but fist bumps and waves seem to be the way to go. People are, understandably, a lot less “touchy-feely” than they were before, but I have already started to notice some of the old customs making a comeback. I guess it’s just a matter of time. Q: I have noticed people here are still wearing face masks in most places, even in outside areas like parks. Am I expected to do the same? A: The official rules have changed over the past few months and no longer require folks to wear masks outdoors. That being said, many people here continue to do so, and following their lead is the courteous thing to do. Remember “when in Rome...” Q: Before the pandemic, there was a “more the merrier” attitude when it came to social events like weddings and birthday parties. Have things toned down a bit? A: Absolutely. Yucatecos still love a good party, but the days of weddings hosting hundreds of people is still on pause. In the past, nobody seemed to mind if you brought a friend along unannounced, but for now, it may be better to refrain from doing so. Q: I am very conscious that people here have not had the luxury of government programs to help them keep their businesses afloat like in the U.S. and Canada. How can I help? A: The best thing to do at this point is to make a conscious effort to

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

support local family businesses. Need some snacks? Skip the chains in favor of your corner store. Want some mangoes? Remember your neighborhood fruteria. Also, if you see a tip jar, add 10 or 20 pesos, it will be much appreciated. Q: I have heard that in some parts of Mexico there is a bit of anti-foreigner sentiment, as the number of international telecommuters and people looking to live here for cheap seems to have risen steeply and is making things more expensive for locals. Is this something to be concerned about in Yucatán? A: For the most part, Yucatecos continue to be as warm and welcoming as ever. The most important thing is to be mindful and avoid saying things like “Mexico is so cheap,” as this really irks locals who are struggling to get by. Also, be generous with people working for you. Wages here are quite low, but this does not mean paying a full-time employee 6,000 pesos a month is right or will win you any friends. Q: Are there any positives you have seen come from all of this social change? A: Absolutely. Yucatecos have proven the power of coming together. I personally really enjoyed the trend of more and more outside dining, as well as the fact that just about every business is offering home delivery, not just big grocery store chains and restaurants. There has also been an explosion of microbusinesses, many of which function through local market cooperatives or online. Folks have also really taken to growing and enjoying more from their homegrown crops, which are both healthy and delicious.  Kanasín native Yesica Benitez is more than happy to explain the realities of local culture and make recommendations for bewildered expats. No holds barred. Email yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com.

Seen

CÉSAR BÉJAR STUDIO VIA STRNG

We see celosías

Those of us from colder climates are amazed to see concrete blocks built to facilitate a cool breeze, not plug up a drafty space. Maybe that’s why we’re obsessed with this very Latin American design element. Strng, a concrete workshop in the north of Mérida, provided these unique lattice pieces for an attorney’s office in Buenavista to ventilate and illuminate the south-facing patio and front interior. This eye-catching wall was designed in collaboration with Arista Cero in Altabrisa and the ceramicist Uxi Díaz Peon. Visit www.strng.com.mx

A not-so-subtle no

Moorish mystery

Why email a final notice when you can get the message across with with spray paint? Yes, Yucatán is very low-tech when it comes to trash-collection bills. Moving into a new house, residents may not be aware that this city service comes with a very modest fee. You might even find a couple years’ worth of delinquent bills are associated with your address. No big deal, since it’s just about US$7 a year to get your garbage hauled away multiple times a week. But to the garbage-hauling company assigned to the neighborhood, nonpayment is dealt with with spray paint. A big fat NO is scrawled on your sidewalk and sometimes on the trash bags you so niavely left outside. Once you do pay, photocopy the receipt and tape it to your trash bag, just to prove you’re in good with the accounts receivable office. Then the NO will be painted over on the curb and replaced with a SI. It also helps to tip the trash guys sometimes, at least at Christmas.

Built in 1909, Casa Morisca has always been a bit of a mystery. The distinctive Moorish house was home to the United States Consulate in the 1920s and a maternity hospital after that. It sat quietly at Calle 51 and 56 for years until architects were hired to turn it into a hotel. But now, at least according to a construction worker, it will be professional offices. And grand ones indeed. A glance at its grand foyer suggests the present owners are taking care to preserve the fine details. 8

ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Natural forms A new series, Montaña Elefante, Camello and Cuyo was designed by Katrin Schikora for TAKTO Design. These ceramic “mountains” — created by imprinting a small wooden tool into wet clay — is inspired by traditional Mexican petate carpet weavings, representing the interconnectedness of all life. The busy movement of the petate contrasts with the quiet stillness of the plain mountain that emerges when we connect with our true nature. The German-born designer moved to Mérida in 1990 and founded the Ceramic Art and Design workshop-gallery three years later. In 2010, Schikora and the late George Samuelson founded TAKTO and moved into its large showroom and workspace in 2015. Schikora was featured on the cover of YM Issue 5 (“Coastal Cool”). Visit en.takto. mx or see the showroom on Calle 35 off Reforma, Mérida.

headline

NEIL YOUNGSON

Secret cantina In that first room off the street, what’s more welcoming than a cantina? This Santa Ana colonial was clearly inspired by the neighborhood’s numerous watering holes. With seating for guests as well as space to mill around, it is the perfect area for entertaining friends and sharing a beer, the owner says. The bar’s side panels are cutouts resembling papel picado. A witty centerpiece behind the bar evokes figures from Loteria cards. One frame is a mirror that labels anyone who gazes at it as EL BORRACHO. The hammered-copper counter and backsplash was constructed in Michoacán. All the décor was created in Mexico, including Huichol yarn art, pop art painted by Jaime Carbó and alebrije wood sculptures carved in Oaxaca. YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

First Person Maggie Cale

Live and learn

GETTY

Moving here with just 2 suitcases, a backpack, and 3 dogs took a leap of faith. Five years later, here is what I’ve learned.

oday, I consider Yucatán home, and I only feel like a fish out of water when I visit the United States. But there’s so much to absorb after my first five years living in Yucatán. I never knew how big a learning curve it would be. Here is some of what Yucatán taught me: Calm down. Very little actually qualifies as an emergency. If someone misses an appointment with you, there’s always tomorrow. Don’t sweat it. Then there’s the unexpected flavors. In Yucatán, a taco isn’t necessarily the same taco you’d get in other parts of Mexico, much less back in Washington or Pennsylvania. My local market family teaches me something new every week, and from them I learned that local produce is utilized in every possible way. Sometimes they select fruits I had never heard of to make ice cream, or discover local produce that is enjoyed at very specific times of year, such as local plums or huayas. With this, I have learned to bend my palette to new flavors. In return, I prepare my hometown dishes and treat them to a taste of my culture. Be open to substitutions. What you find in the market one day might not be back for another year. I am adapting to the drinking-water situation. You might have a water filtration system. Not me. I get those huge jugs of purified water. At first, I thought I could lug one of those giant bottles home, but that’s

inconvenient. Delivery seemed to be the next your comfort zone to be your guide. best step, but getting service was hit or miss. Although we have Uber Eats and Rappi, What works best for me is waving down the bicycles vendors are good to know, and I water delivery trucks when I see them come can buy fresh produce, tortillas, donuts, and down on the street. I tip well, give them cash sweet breads from them. Local vendors are and cookies at Christmas, and drinking also selling their wares in Facebook groups. water comes reliably. I’d never had a pool before and always Cooking with a propane cleaned my own house. But the stove certainly was new to me. I rent already came with “ Allow your place I have learned to adjust that workers who knew the property. comfort flame to the best of my ability I’ve learned to trust their judgand attempt to get the ultimate ment. The pool gentleman brings zone to be low simmer. Baking in the heat the chemicals and knows the your guide.” all of the kitchen is tough when it ins and outs of my filter system. is already sweltering outside. The woman who cleans my home Many ovens in Yucatán are not insulated, troubleshoots all issues with me because she so maintaining a precise temperature for knows the property. She is also my gardener baking is a little tricky. No insulation also and is knowledgeable about the local plants. makes the kitchen hotter. I take portable They have welcomed me to Yucatán and appliances to my outside patio, but if you have become a part of my family. must cook inside, do it in the mornings or Friendships in Yucatán are a blessing. early evenings. Gas tanks must be ordered With a wide array of locals and people from ahead lest you run out. Yes, another ordering all over the world living here, it has been skill I finally almost have down. And I’ve both educational and delightful. learned to keep a spare tank on hand. Every day I learn something new while Should you own a car? It’s an open sharing quiet moments and connecting with debate. I find riding the buses challenging others. All of which is exactly what I was and a bit scary with the pandemic. Yucatán looking for.  has Uber, Didi, taxis, and private drivers. If you choose to own a car, having your paperMaggie Cale has lived most of her life in Pennsylwork and insurance in order is a hassle, vania. She has a social work degree from Penn but a must. Other drivers can be erratic. Be State University and finished her career in Washready to witness plenty of left-hand turns ington, D.C., working with families. She moved to from the right lane in front of you. Allow Yucatán in 2017 and is a ghostwriter for bloggers. ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Giving Evolucíon Animal A.C.

Calendar dogs

Rescue animals at their most loveable, 12 months a year

volución Animal A.C. is a volunteer-run, legit not-for-profit organization registered with Hacienda. Search yucatanmagazine.com and you’ll find many articles written about them over the years. Evolución receives no government funding so is dependent on raising funds from individuals, fundraisers, appeals, and merchandising sales. Our favorite merch from Evolución is the calendar, which we’ve been hanging in our offices for years. The shelter counts on calendar sales to get through January and February, which are very low fundraising months. At last count, their facility in San Lorenzo is providing shelter and TLC to 560-plus dogs and cats waiting for their forever homes. All the pekes are named according to their personality. An adoption team makes a home inspection for every application to make sure the rescue is going

This is one of Evolución’s old-timers, Juanpa, here to talk to you about Mérida’s long-running no-kill animal shelter and the wall calendar they sell every year featuring adorable photos like these. to a responsible and loving home. “During COVID, we have been overwhelmed and distressed by the daily calls for help and animals continue to be dumped outside the gates in ever-increasing numbers. We cannot stop doing our part, so donations mean life to these beings in need — no amount is too small and does so much good,” Patricia Holland says. “The vaccina-

tion campaign is well underway in Yucatán, so we are beginning to reach out to volunteers and actively promote adoptions.” Evolución Animal A.C. relies on the generosity of volunteers. “No matter how much or how little time you can spare, there will be a way for you to lend a helping hand. Juanpa and his pals love a cuddle and a treat!,” Holland says. “You’ll get just as much (if not more) out of volunteering than you put in!” The theme of the 2023 calendar is “Happy Endings/New Beginnings.” It will feature adopted dogs and cats in their new homes. A collage will show which dogs and cats are available for adoption. Once again, professional photographer Carlos Ocampo is volunteering his time and talent. The calendars always come out beautifully and make great gifts. Inflation has forced a considerable increase in the price of paper and ink but their printer has kept their prices as low as possible, Holland says.  Email patintheyucatan@gmail.com to get involved and reserve a calendar. ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Conversation Tonia and Roberto Kimsey

Embracing change, again In their 80s, this dynamic duo left Florida and moved to Mérida — for the 2nd time TEXT AND PHOTO JOANNA VAN DER GRACHT DE ROSADO

nce you set change in motion, a host of surprises come your way. The Kimseys have seen this happen again and again. In 1982, when Tonia Mucelli relocated from New York City to Palm Beach, Florida, she felt excited about her prospects as the public relations point person for a large construction company in the sun-soaked state. A short time later, the CEO hosted a birthday party for himself. He asked her to come, and he also invited Roberto Kimsey, a consultant for the firm who at the time was known as Bob. The two, seated next to each other at dinner, felt an instant connection. “I thought she was beautiful,” says Roberto, “But I never imagined I’d be lucky enough to be still sitting beside her 40 years later.” Tonia gives his hand a squeeze. “That night, we had no idea of all that was in store for us,” she says. “But right away, I felt fascinated by his stories of traveling in Mexico.” “I asked her if she would have dinner with me the following weekend, this time on our own,” Roberto remembers. “She accepted my invitation, and during our second evening together, she told me she had worked previously at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art.” There she helped to develop a well-received children’s program. “Mexican history and folk culture was a popular topic,” she said, although she had never been to Mexico. Tonia felt intrigued by Roberto’s adventures. She told him at the time that she’d like to see the country — with him. “Yes, it’s true. I did say that,” says Tonia, “I made it way too easy for him.” Roberto laughs. “We’d both been married previously, and we agreed to spend Christmas Day with our respective families — grown children, parents, aunts, and uncles. Then, the following day, the two of us flew to Guadalajara. We also wanted to spend time in San Miguel de Allende and Mexico City.” Tonia’s hands make dramatic, swooping

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

Tonia and Roberto Kimsey have returned to Mérida after trying to please family members with a move to the Tampa area. circles as she recalls their first adventure south of the Rio Grande. “We stayed at the Camino Real, Posadas de Mexico, La Casa de la Sierra Nevada — such gorgeous hotels. We ate exquisite foods I’d never tasted before. And I fell in love with “ We both realized mariachi music. Roberto rented a vintage sports that we were car to get us around, and having more fun really, his personality than anyone else changed behind the wheel of the flashy little car,” she we knew.” laughs. “I baptized him Roberto.” “And the new name stuck,” he says. “Tonia and Roberto has a nice ring to it.” A few months later, on their next trip to Mexico, both felt they wanted a longer stay in one place. They chose a small apartment in San Miguel. He took painting classes at the Instituto Allende, and she studied jewelry making. “She looked adorable,” says Roberto, “when she’d arrive home with silver dust in her hair.” “We both realized,” Tonia adds, “that we were having more fun than anyone else we knew. We felt 13

Conversation Tonia and Roberto Kimsey

COURTESY ROBERTO AND TONIA KIMSEY

invigorated in Mexico. Life seemed much more exciting.” In the 1990s, a donkey pulls a cement mixer while the Kimseys build “We’ve hung on to that feeling ever since,” says a home in the fishing village of La Manzanilla, Mexico. Roberto. “All these years have gone by, and we feel just the same way we did back then. Mexico makes our life visited Mérida, we could appreciate that we needed the better.” increased comfort that’s available here.” And in Florida, their bond with Mexico overlapped When they first arrived, they knew no one, so they with their work life. Roberto is a builder with a prefboth joined the Mérida English Library, and she began erence for Mediterranean and Spanish Colonial styles. attending meetings at the International Women’s Club. Tonia is a decorator, and together they imported many They bought season tickets to the symphony. And as of the feature pieces that made their houses stand apart soon as their pretty new home was completed, their — stone columns, carved wooden beams, marble accent “Dinners for Eight” began. And so did the parties, for pieces, textiles, and pottery. about 10 times that number. Meanwhile, Roberto con“Good art jumps out at me,” says Tonia. tinued building, and Tonia decorated the homes. “She has an eye, that’s for sure,” says Roberto. “Best of all, we had time for all our interests,” says As retirement approached, the couple decided they Roberto. For the Kimseys, life in Mérida moseyed along would make Mexico their year-round home. In 1997, as gracefully as a small sloop on a calm bay. Roberto built a home, just for them, on the In 2017, health concerns caused Tonia beach in La Manzanilla, a small fishing and Roberto to look northward again. “ In Yucatán, village of 3,000 people. Several painters Their families in the States wanted Tonia and sculptors had already set up studios we experience and Roberto to return. there, and with time more came to live on “Our years in Mexico had been a wonjoy every day.” derful the shore of the little-known west-coast ride, but we needed to think about retreat. what our children wanted,” says Roberto. “The artists needed a gallery,” says Tonia. So she So everything got sold or shipped, and eventually, with designed one, and Roberto built it. One newspaper back the imperious cat in one kennel and a shy little dog in in the U.S. described them as “American art collectors the other, they moved to the Tampa Bay area and set up with dreams that ride the clouds and feet that skip along yet another home. the sand.” But Tonia and Roberto weren’t able to stay away “So many people came to our openings — 200 or so from Mérida. Roberto missed his projects, and after the — some drove, and some arrived by taxi all the way from isolation of the pandemic, Tonia also felt she needed to Guadalajara and San Miguel.” go “home” to Mexico. And now, at 84 and 88, they’ve The Kimseys helped the local families, too. Roberto bought a smaller house in Mérida and are already built a community cultural center and taught kids to talking about their renovation plans. paint. They empowered single moms by forming a jams“In Yucatán, we experience joy every day. We feel and-jellies cooperative. like we have come back here to continue living the best By the time Tonia and Roberto had lived in La possible life,” Roberto says. “We’ll take care of ourselves Manzanilla 10 years, they were in their 70s. Friends and each other.” visited the capital city of Yucatán and suggested that Tonia smiles when asked why some people fare well the Kimseys consider moving to Mérida. “You might do in a new place and others do not fit in. well to live closer to an international airport, to medical “If a person comes to Mexico expecting something facilities, entertainment, restaurants, and other big city grand, it will probably elude them. But if they are infrastructure,” they explained. patient, time will show the way to a simple yet won“They were right,” says Roberto. “Once Tonia and I derful life.”  14

ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Books

Love, art, conservation, and the zen of photographing pink flamingos TEXT CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

laudio Contreras Koob has been obsessed with flamingos since he was 4 years old. “I am from Mexico City, but we have family here in Yucatán so we used to come every chance we got. I fell in love with the Peninsula right away and have not been able to keep away since,” says Claudio. As the years passed, Claudio’s passion for Yucatán and its wildlife only grew and eventually led him to a career as a biologist. “This special love I had for these magnificent pink birds developed into academic curiosity to understand their behavior and movements,” he recalls. But soon Claudio realized

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

More than 10 years ago, Claudio Contreras Koob began to build his photo portfolio of flamingos in Yucatán. 15 PHOTO © CLAUDIO CONTRERAS KOOB / NATUREPL.COM

Books

Over 130 of Claudio Contreras Koob’s photos are featured in Flamingo, which was published by teNeues Verlag in March 2022. PHOTOS © CLAUDIO CONTRERAS KOOB / NATUREPL.COM

his talents were not limited to science — and he began to photograph wildlife, first for fun and then professionally. Claudio’s work as a wildlife photographer has now entered its third decade. To celebrate this milestone he has released, with the publisher teNeues Verlag, a stunning new book, “Flamingo,” which features some of his best photographs of this unique and elegant bird. The process of photo16

graphing flamingos is described by Claudio as “zen-like,” requiring a great deal of patience and an almost meditative state of concentration. “In the end, it’s all up to the animal, the photographer has very little control. But at the same time, one has to be ready to capture magical moments which may only last a fraction of a second. Luck, of course, is also a factor,” chuckles Claudio. As flamingos are extremely

skittish animals and prone to injury or even death when startled, Claudio is keen to highlight the importance of taking an approach with the lightest possible touch. Conservationists often note that the beauty of flamingos makes them great ambassadors for Yucatán’s wetlands. Protect flamingos, and the trickle-down effect ends up protecting entire ecosystems. “The goal of my photography

is not just aesthetic. I want people to see these majestic animals through my lens, appreciate their beauty and come to love them as I do. This is not just for sentimental reasons, but because as humans we are more prone to protect that which we love,” reflects Claudio. Flamingo (224 pages, 1,886 pesos) is sold at Between the Lines, Calle 62 and 53, Centro). It is written in English, Spanish, and German. ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

For the bookshelf Juanita Stein »

The Daughter of Doctor Moreau by Silvia Moreno-García

The newest novel from the bestselling author of Mexican Gothic takes us into 19th-century Yucatán, to a distant and luxuriant estate, far from the conflict and strife of the Peninsula. This lavish, dreamy reimagining of the classic The Island of Doctor Moreau “is historical science fiction at its best, with vivid descriptions of lush jungles and feminist themes. Some light romance threads through the heavier ethical questions concerning humanity,” according to Library Journal. Carlota Moreau is the only daughter of a researcher who is either a genius or a madman. Montgomery Laughton is a melancholic overseer with a tragic past and a propensity for alcohol; an outcast who assists Dr. Moreau with his experiments, which are financed by the Lizaldes, owners of magnificent haciendas and plentiful coffers. The hybrids are the fruits of the doctor’s labor, destined to blindly obey their creator and remain in the shadows; a motley group of part human, part animal monstrosities. All of them live in a perfectly balanced and static world, which is jolted by the abrupt arrival of Eduardo Lizalde, the charming and careless son of Dr. Moreau’s patron, who will unwittingly begin a dangerous chain reaction. For Moreau keeps secrets, Carlota has questions, and, in the sweltering heat of the jungle, passions may ignite. Paperback, 320 pages, 485 pesos.

Violeta by Isabel Allende

Violeta comes into the world on a stormy day in 1920. From the start, her life is marked by extraordinary events, for the ripples of the Great War are still being felt, even as the Spanish flu arrives on the shores of her South American homeland. The family will come through that crisis unscathed, only to face a new one as the Great Depression transforms the genteel city life she has known. Her family is forced to retreat to a wild and beautiful but remote part of the country. There, she will come of age, and her first suitor will come calling. She tells her story in the form of a letter to someone she loves above all others, recounting times of devastating heartbreak and passionate affairs, poverty and wealth, terrible loss and immense joy. Her life is shaped by some of the most important events of history: the fight for women’s rights, the rise and fall of tyrants, and ultimately not one, but two pandemics. Through the eyes of a woman whose unforgettable passion, determination, and sense of humor carry her through a lifetime of upheaval, Isabel Allende once more brings us an epic that is both fiercely inspiring and deeply emotional. Paperback, 322 pages, 422 pesos.

Juanita Stein owns the bookstore Between the Lines on the corner of Calle 62 and 53 in the Centro. Visit facebook.com/BetweenTheLinesMerida

Food & Drink

Aperol Spritz Don’t let summer end without one last refreshing sip

Charlie McGirr’s vinyl records bring the sounds of classic jazz to his Charlie Parkerinspired club, Bird, which also emphasizes local breweries.

A proper Aperol Spritz tastes like summertime in Italy and it looks like a golden orange sunset. Here’s how you make one.

Aperol Spritz 1 glass

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Aperol Prosecco Club soda Orange slice (optional)

Only Aperol, a bright orange aperitif, will do here, says cocktails expert Fernando Almazan. The brand describes the flavors as “zesty orange with complex herbal scents harmonized with a touch of vanilla.” Prosecco is an inexpensive Italian sparkling wine similar to Spanish Cava or French Champagne. He recommends choosing a dry (brut) one, so your drink doesn’t turn out too syrupy or sweet. Club soda adds some fizzy dilution, but any unflavored sparkling water will do the trick. You can skip this if you don’t have it, but an orange slice is the classic garnish for an Aperol Spritz. — Fernando Almazan Sommelier Express delivers Aperol Spritz packages in Mérida for 725 pesos. Includes one bottle of Aperol, one bottle of Prosecco Brut Pinelli and a two-liter bottle of sparkling water. Email: sommelierexpress@live.com

Bird is the word A pair of dissatisfied entrepreneurs build their own nests for all to enjoy TEXT EDUARDO VÁZQUEZ PHOTOS EDUARDO VÁZQUEZ AND LEE STEELE

A glass of liquid summertime at Zinc Comfort Food on the Paseo de Montejo. PHOTO: CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

hank goodness for the people who, when they can’t find a favorite watering hole, decide to open one. That’s how Charlie McGirr and Rodrigo Moguel’s story began. They were looking for a good place to have a drink, eat something decent, and listen to good music in Mérida. “Every time we went out at night there was something missing. Maybe the music was good but the drinks were bad, maybe there was good food but not the ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

drinks or the music. So, why not just start a new bar?” Rodrigo told me. In late 2018, they gave a new lease on life and a fresh personality to a traditional old cantina, and the Dzalbay in Santa Lucía as we now know it was born. As the years went by and new trends arrived, the city was still missing something. What if I just want a good craft beer, a really good pizza slice, and to listen to a unique selection of music? *Egg cracking sound…* Bird Tap Room was hatched on Calle 56 at the end of May. Charlie and Rodrigo met at the Yucatán Symphony Orchestra. The former plays the double bass and the latter is the orchestra librarian; both have a particular sensibility for music. This might explain why at Bird you sense the musical atmosphere as soon as you walk in. The bar’s look immediately tells you what the place is about: Charlie is center stage playing his favorite tracks right from his vinyls — from ’70s Afro-beats and hidden jazz gems, to funk jams (you won’t hear this kind of music anywhere else in Mérida so get Shazamming) — and next to him there is a super busy 12-line beer tap followed by an authentic, artisan-made Neapolitan pizza oven. A hypnotic smell of hops fuses with the scent of the made-to-order pizzas. I suggest you take a seat at the bar in front of Charlie’s decks and enjoy a Session Indian Pale Ale, a 9.7% Bourbon Stout, an unfiltered Brown Ale, or, if you are feeling adventurous, a Guava Berliner. There are occasional new additions to the beer list, so you will always have something new to try before ordering your favorite. The food menu includes starters such as hummus,

Spicy Shrimp Serves 2-3

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Spicy shrimp

et people in the north move on to pumpkin-spiced everything. In Yucatán, it's still the season for cool-down food. We like summer dishes with a kick. Good shrimp is plentiful here all year round, and this savory blend of hot, tangy and herbaceous ingredients will hit the spot any time of year.

4 tablespoons butter 4 garlic cloves Juice of 2 medium limes 1 tablespoon of Sriracha sauce 1 tablespoon chopped, seeded jalapeño 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro 1 lb cleaned deveined shrimp Salt to taste

1. Add 1 tablespoon of butter to a saucepan and add chopped garlic. Sauté for about 2 minutes. 2. Add the other 3 tablespoons of butter to the pan, lime juice, Sriracha sauce, and salt. Heat until butter is all melted. 3. Put the pan to the side to allow flavors to blend. In a pot of boiling, well-salted water, cook the shrimp for about 2 minutes or until pink. Drain shrimp well. 4. Place shrimp in butter chili sauce and gently mix. Add jalapeño and cilantro and toss lightly. Enjoy with warm tortillas. — Maggie Cale

More cooking and entertaining ideas at yucatanmagazine.com/tag/recipes picaña tacos, or roasted marrow, and main dishes such as the Bird burger with caramelized onions, bacon, and chimichurri, or oven-cooked ribs. The star, though, is the Neapolitan-style pizza; you can choose from six different options. Rodrigo suggested the Funghi, a white pizza with provolone, roasted mushrooms, basil, and truffle oil; it’s my favorite so far. Don’t hesitate to ask him

which beer pairs best with which food. By now, you should be deep into the sound of an obscure African funky masterpiece, tapping your foot to the beat, and giving Bird the thumbs up like I did on my first visit. Surely Bird will quickly become a city icon, just like Dzalbay.  Bird is in Mérida’s Santa Lucía neighborhood, Calle 56 between 53 and 55; Instagram: @birdtap

Eduardo Vázquez is Roof Cat Media’s creative director and has over a decade of experience in print and digital media. A craft beer and music enthusiast, he keeps his finger on the pulse of all things new in Mérida. YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

Getaways

Return to Chiapas After 25 years, including a 2-and-a-half-year travel hiatus due to the pandemic, a traveler returns to beautiful and atmospheric San Cristóbal de las Casas TEXT AND PHOTOS CLAIRE TYRPAK

y eagerly awaited return to Chiapas and its famed 16th-century colonial city was stalled a bit when bad weather prevented my plane from departing on time, so at almost 2 in the morning, I arrived at my hotel in Tuxtla Gutiérrez. The next morning, after arriving in San Cristóbal and dropping my bags at the hotel, I finally got to see the city that had stayed in my imagination for many years. It looked much the same, old colonial houses and buildings with terra cotta tile roofs, cobbled streets, and the high mountain light, all evocative of nearby Guatemala. With time it became apparent that much had changed as well. It was no longer the remote, rustic sanctuary from the rest of the world. It was more modern and cosmopolitan. At first, I was admittedly a bit worried it had changed too much, but I found San Cristóbal to have done a good job blending the old and the new. There were so many new shops, restaurants, markets, and vendors that it was almost overwhelming. Many handmade products such as clothing, jewelry, and dolls are for sale by Maya vendors on the streets, in the shops throughout

Indigenous women from San Juan Chamula appear in traditional dress. Below, San Cristóbal’s streets are made all the more colorful with papel picado.

the center, and in the markets, including the large tarp-covered market directly in front of Ex-Convento Santo Domingo. Since I had seen most of the intriguing sites around Chiapas, I spent my two-week trip beating the streets of San Cristóbal, taking in the roasted aroma of its famous coffee and the many sights and sounds that make this city one of a kind. My only other trip here was during the time of the Zapatistas. They had used the early days of the Internet in a savvy way to become well-known international fighters for the rights of the indigenous people. It’s a bit different now, but I did see a few Zapatista dolls for sale as in the old days. There is an incredible amount of shopping for handmade local crafts and many modern “fast” fashion shops around the city center. I bought some light sweaters because it was cooler than I had planned. Macadamia nuts are a local delicacy sold by street vendors, and I hesitated to buy some because I had no way to break open their hard shells. One enterprising vendor took a hammer to some so I could enjoy this local treat. There was so much to see and so many people to chat with as they hawked their wares, the artisans selling handmade blouses, and other items such as stuffed animals, and little clay jaguars. ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Templo de Santo Domingo dates to the 16th century.

The city has an abundance of restaurants and cafés to choose from. I ate daily at Te Quiero Verde, one of several good vegetarian/vegan restaurants. Another excellent choice is El Secreto, which offers fine dining in their main dining room and or in a garden next door. I visited several small museums with excellent exhibits, including the Museo del Ámbar (Amber Museum) and Centro de Textiles del Mundo Maya. The textile museum has world-class collections of hand-woven textiles, including a few dating back to 1900. I stayed at Hotel Junvay, an attractive and comfortable gem of a hotel five minutes from the plaza, which is far enough away to be quiet and restful. The beds were plush with warm duvets, and my room had French doors that opened onto a small balcony

Office

Calle 43 455 por 52 y 54 Centro Mérida Yucatán México CP 97000

overlooking the lovely center garden and a view of the mountains. It had warm touches such as exposed brick and wooden ceiling beams. It was a pleasure to return to every day after my treks around the city. The hotel has breakfast available, a concierge, and a laundry service. The weather was volatile my entire stay, becoming cooler the second week, and there was plenty of rain, including a deluge from a cyclone. I found a pair of pink plastic boots at a little shop and carried them around in my backpack after soaking my shoes and jeans several times. The weather provided a welcome change from the strong summer heat of Yucatán, but warm clothes are a must. In the second week of my trip, I learned of an event in the north of the city. A group of black-clad men carrying automatic weapons frightened the locals into taking refuge in shops for several hours, with the military only showing up after the men had left. The men shot into the air, burned tires and cars, and formed blockades in the area's streets. They were members of a local crime group called Los Motonetos, a reference to their motorcycles, and were fighting over

control of a market in that area. While frightening for area residents, calm returned afterward. In the taxi back to the airport in Tuxtla Gutiérrez, I encountered two roadblocks, not an uncommon occurrence in the state of Chiapas. On my previous journey, I saw most of the significant sites Chiapas has to offer, such as Palenque, which is one of the my favorite Mayan ruins. I also took a boat trip on the Cañón del Sumidero and went horseback riding in the mountains up to the village of San Juan Chamula. Festivals are common in San Cristóbal, and while visiting, I experienced a few, including Corpus Christi. I also enjoyed parades, some music on the central plaza, and a food fair. There were daily fireworks at other festivals. Having done my part to benefit the local economy, I look forward to returning to this fascinating region of Mexico.  Claire Tyrpak retired to Mérida in 2021 after a career managing programs for nonprofits, government, and a university in the United States. She has been a world traveler since the 1980s and Mexico is the fifth country in which she has lived.

Enrich the next stage of your life.

Yucatán Relocation Workshop In one long weekend of conversation and tours, learn the nuts and bolts of living in Yucatán — as well as the culture and traditions that make this part of Mexico so special.

3-day workshops and tours are coming in Jan., Feb., and March 2023. Space is limited. Register at relocationworkshop.com EARLY-BIRD PRICING ENDS OCT. 1

For a tiny weekend retreat, subtlety goes a long way Dreams come true at Casa Dos Sueños

Yucatán at Home

Dare to dream Casa Dos Sueños holds to tradition while domesticating a weathered commercial building in the south of Mérida

TEXT LEE STEELE PHOTOS CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

ince a new Mérida home was a dream come true for them both, it seemed fitting that Jim Jones and Ramon Alvarez named this ethereal blue beauty “Casa Dos

Commissioned artwork appears in all corners of Jim and Ramon's new house in Mérida. Above, one wall of the first courtyard is embellished in the Cruz Maya technique.

Sueños.” The dream started in Puerto Vallarta, where the two U.S. residents were visiting regularly for about 20 years. “By the time we got around to being in a place where we could actually afford it, it was out of our reach,” says Jim. “And after five or 10 years, there’s not much to do there, either.” The dream was also to have a place that belonged to them both. For a while, Jim worked in southern Oregon and Ramon was in Spokane, Washington — a distance of about 11 hours. On weekends they would meet at Portland, Oregon, roughly a halfway point between them. “While we were apart, Ramon was watching HGTV and saw Mérida on one of the “House Hunters International” shows. They weren’t aware of Yucatán’s charms previously. They don’t remember which one triggered the notion to go check it out, but “downloaded every single episode that was related to Mérida and just binge-watched it.” The first visit was New Year’s Eve 2017. They stayed at the Gran Hotel above Starbucks, less than a mile up the street from where they would eventually renovate a property “We just walked all the way over the city in the Centro and just fell in love with it,” says Jim. “The architecture, the people. Our second trip, we were walking down and we said ‘this is it.’ ” Renovation is perhaps in their blood, and they had an eye for a ruin’s potential after buying, renovating and later selling an ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Yucatán at Home

The facade on Calle 60, south of the Plaza Grande, before and after Casa Dos Sueños was born. Below, a fairytale spiral staircase leads to the master bedroom while anchoring the courtyard, which connects the sala and the kitchen. It is protected by a polycarbonate roof that lets in natural light, seen on the facing page.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

Yucatán at Home 1855-1890 “kind-of-a-dump” Victorian in Connecticut. They also restored a derelict Craftsman-style home back West, turning that into a rental property. This property was previously used as an automotive air conditioning repair shop. From the comfort of the terrace, Jim points to where there was parking, and where two other rooms and a bathroom are now unrecognizable. After overseeing building here, Jim says his Spanish has improved: “I’m pretty much fluent in food and fluent in construction.” The house they built runs along traditional lines, with romantic neoclassical elements. Sculptures, reliefs, and architectural details — like a giant wall in the front courtyard finished with the Mayan Cross stone technique. Colors are soft and calming. The house is south of the Plaza Grande, which loosely demarcates the city’s economic divide. Most modern construction is happening in the north, toward the beach. But they are pleased with their neighborhood, which they appreciate for its local mom-and-pop businesses, a neighborhood market, and for having fewer expats. “One of the reasons we wanted to move to Mérida is there are fewer expats than Puerto Vallarta, so being in a neighborhood that doesn’t have as much of that is good,” Ramon explains “And so there aren’t the malls, but this house has a garage, and there’s a car, and so we can travel wherever we want to.” And a walk to Santa Lucía takes 20 minutes, tops, for their favorite restaurants. The pair worked closely with Jessica Park Zavala of the four-year-old architecture firm Park Estudio. She arrived this day for a brief “watch party” in the living room for their home’s segment on Trasmuro, a YouTube channel that delves into what’s “behind the wall” at renovated homes in Yucatán. As it happens, the show dropped on the day of Jim and Ramon’s 27th anniversary together, in their new home in Mérida. Dreams do come true, even in pairs. 

Jim and Ramon live part-time in the northwest United States and consider Casa Dos Sueños a getaway. Below, a plunge pool off master bedroom upstairs has a view of San José e la Montaña church.

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Yucatán at Home

Weekend retreat MID House gives ‘hole in the wall’ a whole new meaning

rijua, which opened shop this year as an architecture and interior design firm, transformed a slender Santiago residence into a sleek retreat for relaxing weekends. MID House has smooth, rounded niches in the adobe style. Partners María González, Alejandro Leal, and Gabriel Fregoso exercised subtlety here . Walls have natural finishes and the dining room furniture is cedar. The kitchen has a twoburner cooktop and open shelves, keeping the space airy and bright. Off the dining area is a romantic plunge pool to cap off the day. 

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Yucatán at Home

Opposite, reclaimed objects make for a unique wash basin downstairs. Above, a spiral staircase in the corner of the rear terrace elegantly connects the two floors without eating up too much floor space in this tiny pied-àterre. Continuity is everything. Left, off the bedroom is a festive terrace with the same hand-crafted tiles that were seen in the master bath. 28

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Cover Story

If travel restrictions have kept you away, you will be returning to a different Yucatán. We’re just scratching the surface, so simply consider this a snapshot of but a fleeting moment.

Oh, and welcome back!

Surprising Things to Look For

» An evolving culture » New restaurants, big and small

» Rooftop lounges and a hidden bar

» Our cups overflow with good coffee

TEXT AND PHOTOS LEE STEELE, CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT AND EDUARDO VÁZQUEZ

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

» More for the family » Rock music returns » Overnight getaways get more awesome

What’s New

A greener path Tourists still seems to prefer a horse to go along with their carriage rides, but bowing to popular demand, the city has introduced a few electric carriages to the mix. The city has also carved about 45 miles of bike lanes throughout Mérida. Some are confusing — cars and buses often use them as access lanes to enter parking lots. A lot more effort went into the paths along the Paseo de Montejo where joggers — some possibly out-oftowners unfamiliar with the rules — compete for space. Motorists complained they had less room to maneuver. But walking the Paseo — especially at the huge intersection outside the Walmart —feels safer these days. Pedestrians have a dedicated path and lights. Walk/don’t-walk signs are also at various intersections in the Centro, but as we noted in Issue 5, a few adjustments are in order. (See our carriage review: YouTube.com/yucatanmagazine)

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What’s New

Pride and fury

You’d think the biggest parade on the Paseo in a conservative city like Mérida would be something like Carnaval. Nope. In 2022, it was an extravagant LGBTQ+ pride march attracting an estimated 20,000 people. The event previously took place in far less prominent streets with far fewer participants. Below is evidence that family members are occasionally on board. Graffiti on monuments, including the one above, remains after a demonstration in March protested gender violence.

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What’s New

On Calle 47 and 56, Baretto has replaced Marmalade. New and old restaurants on either side —Tradicion Venezuela and La Papa Caliente — did not survive.

Maria & Montejo, Rituales de Café might be the most mellow and refined of the recent batch of coffeehouse newcomers, on Calle 58 between 37 and 39. Despite a fairly obscure location, they are often packed with regulars who appreciate its simple elegance.

Justo Bread Studio opened as the pandemic began to spread, but remained in operation during lockdown by bringing coffee and baked goods to the sidewalk. It led several vibrant new businesses — Matilda, Fiorella Gelato y Sorbete Gelato, and La Bottega — to replace a defunct airline ticket counter and an insurance company branch office (left) on the Paseo de Montejo at Calle 29.

2019 GOOGLE STREET VIEW

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What’s New

High-octane competition These recently opened cafés are in walking distance from each other. Is there room for them all?

Tinoc Café is taking on established rivals such as Soco around the corner and Voltacafe and Bengala Kaffeehaus to the west and south. But it’s got its own unique vibe on Calle 58 between 51 and 53.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

An old sewing machine distributor has become a vegan café on Calle 54 and 49. Early reviews give Arista Barista a thumbs up to latte de horchata, and another made with peanuts.

Pastel-infused Menta & Rosa, on Calle 56 between 45 and 47, is popular for breakfast and brunch. Very often customers are outside patiently waiting for a table to be freed up. 33

What’s New

Fresh dishes

Yakuza, high-end sushi bar with a cocktail bar to match, Calle 41 off Calle 60. Previously: Sayonara Asian Cuisine, and before that, Dice Ño design. Note: The first Yakuza is still at Victory Platz on the north side.

Just a taste of all the new restaurants that have opened lately

Ramiro Cocina, tiny eatery well-loved for home-style Yucatecan food, Calle 41 at 60. Previously: A wine shop, among other things, when the building was a deep blue. Note: Café Creme and a ceramic workshop still anchor the small complex.

Piensa Rosa, splashy, fun restaurant with two marble outdoor countertops parallel to the Paseo de Montejo at 43. Previously: Casa Jure, a private French neo-classical casona dating to 1905. Note: While in the courtyard, look up at the pink umbrellas facing down.

Health Ha, fresh smoothies, Calle 47 between 58 and 60. Previously: Compro Oro, a gold dealer. Note: Is this Health Food Row? The Vegan Inc. chain is opening up a few doors down, and near 56 is Pitagoras, a vegetarian café in the old Huevos Motuleños y Más. 34

Casa Yucatán, traditional Yucatecan food with Chef Ernesto Cab Vera at the helm, Calle 60 near 49. Previously: Maruja Barbachano Galería. Note: A classic Mérida casona with a fancy marquesita stand in the courtyard.

Gran Lumiére, fusion cuisine with French flair, Calle 60 at 51. Previously: Islamic cultural center, and before that, Amaro Books. Note: Part of what’s called Casa Patricia, which also has a gift shop and guayabera store and a hair salon. Tranquil courtyard in the rear.

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What’s New

The remate reborn Nights at the park-like southern base of the Paseo were always kind of quiet except during Noche Mexicana. But not lately.

Sabino Comedor & Bar, Mexican fusion, Calle 60 and 45. Previously: Napoli Mia, which broke our hearts when they closed. Note: Direct view of Santa Ana church, which is especially fun if there’s a wedding.

Esencia Maya Fusion, streetside café with an open-air restaurant and bar upstairs, Paseo de Montejo and 39. Previously: Briefly Changomango. Years ago it was Bravo Tapas and Las Brasas. Note: Great views of the glorieta. An adjacent store features Yucataninspired hats, shirts and dresses.

Quiet offices facing Hotel Casa San Angel were replaced with the high-energy Lyon restaurant. It particularly made a big splash with its opulant Oracle roof bar. (More rooftop fun on Page 38.) Left, friendly and festive Trópico 56 may actually break the curse that’s quickly put a fork in many other restaurants in that space. Below, Pizza Neo just opened, and they sell New York-style pies. The same owners have taken over the neighboring El Gran Café, which was underutilized at one of Mérida’s most dynamic locations. Everything has been gutted and there are big plans for a roof bar and restaurant complex. Sadly, the doors shut tight this summer at the charming Luna Nueva hostel and café, leaving the corner property at Calle 49 ready for new ideas. Cervo is the newest restaurant at the Harbor mall, part of a big Mexican restaurant group that includes its flagship Sonora Grill steakhouses. This time around, the emphasis is on Mediterranean food, especially seafood dishes like ones you’d find in Greece, Italy, and Spain. One critic described it as “Tulum style,” which would be in line with the trend these days.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

What’s New

Places hiding in plain sight

Some things should remain secret, but other times you just can’t resist sharing your discoveries with everyone. Yes, there’s a new speakeasy in Mérida! If you haven’t discovered it yet, keep your eyes out for a shiny walk-in refrigerator door in the Santa Lucía area. Inside the secret bar you’ll find an underground atmosphere and plenty of fancy drinks. The space is tiny, but they wedge in space for musicians to perform. (And no, we’re not talking about Malahat, but if that’s your guess, you’re close!)

Subtlety is dead. Across Santa Ana park on Calle 47 is a bar that’s actually called Boobs. Its logo renders the pair of O’s as an owl’s eyes, or are they ... something else? For men with different tastes, there’s a bar on Calle 54 between 56 and 58 called Dix. Oh my. A neon sign near the entrance says “Welcome to hell.” Mother warned us about places like these.

Chino Moreno, specializes in street seafood, Calle 56 near 43. Previously: Comida Godínez, to-go lunches for office workers. Note: small menu includes tuna tostadas and octopus quesadillas

The old Mini Super Pronto on 60 near 55 has become a rocker bar called Fah, so tourists in Santa Lucía will have to find somewhere else to grab snacks and 200-peso bottles of vino tinto. In its place is a casual, fun place for live music. They appeared to be looking for homesick gringos when they hosted an “Expats Fahntastic Party” with half-price beer and margaritas. It probably worked.

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GOOGLE STREET VIEW

Asai is off the hotel lobby at the former pretty-in-pink InterContinental Presidente, which is now the handsomein-blue Villa Mercedes. The entire property was brought up-to-date by Hilton. The Japanese restaurant is a spinoff of Chef Yasuo Asai’s Kaiseki in Mexico City. For a twist on tradition, try the cactus sushi.

What’s New

Carlie Parker lives Music is at the center of the Charlie-Parker-inspired Bird, a Santa Lucía hangout on Calle 58 between 53 and 55, in the former Fundación Mezcaleria spot. (That place moved to the old Pancho’s on Calle 59, where its devotees have followed.) Attention to craft beer on tap, bespoke tacos and authentic rustic pizza is more than we could have hoped for. The Bird landed just as many people were beginning to rediscover the concept of evenings out in Mérida. If Bird reminds you of Dzalbay, there’s a reason. See a related story on Page 18.

Art in Izamal Galería Wayak is artist-owned, and while the art is Mexican, the owner speaks French and English in addition to Spanish. In one year, it’s become known as a “must-see” when visiting Izamal at Calle 29 293bis, Centro, a block away from the plaza. Their ongoing goal is to transform old buildings into residences for local, national, and international artists who wish to pursue their creative work in Yucatán.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

What’s New

Breath of fresh air Unless you go to the north, it’s hard to find a public roof deck above the second floor. But the Courtyard by Marriott in the hotel zone opened the city’s highest pool in 2021. The adjacent Kioyú Sky Lounge opened sometime afterwards. It could have been a tourist trap, but no, the food’s actually terrific. And we were also surprised how sweet the air is up above it all. Need we mention the sweeping views? I think we saw Galveston. Day passes are available for the pool. Fronto, below left, at the boutique hotel Diez Diez, Calle 56 and 37, opened as lockdown uncertainties peaked.

But by 2021, the second-floor patio caught on. Just don’t skip the indoor dining room where watching the bartender is a show in itself. Below, La Ermita is growing as a destination. Cigno was designed by Roger Gonzalez Escalante (Casa Lecanda’s architect) at Calle 66 between 73 and 75. Believe it or not, this gem was used as a lumber yard in the last decade. On the Remate, Lyon has a whole new format, with a cantina-themed space and roof lounge called The Oracle, which opened in August. Esencia Maya Fusion has great views further up the Paseo de Montejo. (See Page 35)

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What’s New

Design for our time Proof that not everyone is just throwing money at a project, the Hotel Plaza by Kavia is a wellthought-out overhaul of an unattractive and outdated office complex on the Paseo de Montejo, near Calle 39. They kept the bones and added soft lighting, an open center elevator and even a putting green on the terrace. It adds a touch of distinction where the boulevard deserves it most. As for the hotel tower next door, the one with the never-ending renovations, all bets are off.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

Minaret bazaar During the pandemic, many folks in Mérida, especially women, found themselves out of a job. As a result, the city has seen a dramatic increase in outdoor markets selling everything from hair accessories, to ironwork, and plants. Though some of these bazaars operate out of communal areas in shopping centers or parking lots, others have sprung up in public spaces with the approval of city hall. Several of these markets are organized around themes such as “LGBTQ+ creators” or “women helping women,” while others are a little more free form. These bazaars are great places to pick up one-of-a-kind items while supporting the local economy. Below, the French-Moorish mansion El Minaret on the Paseo de Montejo near Calle 35, hosts a bazaar each weekend.

What’s New

Still rockin’

2018

The Delorean on Prolongación Paseo de Montejo was the place to get your dose of live rock. After having to close up shop, the venue relocated to Centro and downsized its stage to a walkway on 58 and 59 — just across from El Palacio de la Música. Though much smaller, the Delorean has kept on rocking and offering pub fare and plenty of beer. Its music genres vary

depending on the night, but often have a hard rock or alternative edge. The smaller location has its advantages, as the music attracts many passers-by including tourists. But the Delorean’s Facebook page has dropped plenty of hints that they are looking for a bigger space where they can put on larger shows and host bigger bands once again. Fans can’t wait.

GOOGLE STREET VIEW

The shows must go on Live concerts have made a major comeback in Mérida featuring artists like Alejandra Guzman, Gloria Trevi and Alejandro Fernández. In the coming months, even bigger shows will hit the stage.

» Guns N’ Roses / Molotov

The legendary American hard rock band Guns N’ Roses will be playing at the Xmatkuil fairgrounds on Oct. 15, 2022. The long-lived Mexican rock/ rap band Molotov will be opening what is sure to be an explosive show. 40

» Moderatto

The Mexican rock band formed in the 1990s and is known for their over-the-top antics which parody the stereotypes of 1980s-style glam metal. They will be rattling the rafters of the Foro GNP on Oct. 22, 2022.

» Lacrimosa

Coming from Germany and fronted by Tilo Wolff and Anne Nurmi, Lacrimosa mixes gothic rock and heavy metal, along with violins and trumpets at the La Isla Auditorium on Nov. 3, 2022.

» OV7

Formerly known as La Onda Vaselina, OV7 is a Mexican pop group with hits that include Te Quiero Tanto, Tanto, Shabadabada, and Mírame a los ojos. OV7 will be performing at the Foro GNP on Nov. 5, 2022.

» Café Tacvba

One of the most popular rock bands in all of Latin America. Café Tacvba has won a swath of awards including Grammys, Latin Grammys, and MTV Music Awards. They hit Mérida on Dec. 10, 2022 at the Foro GNP. ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

What’s New

A modern malecón Progreso authorities earned raves when its overhauled malecón —the promenade that runs between the beach and the restaurants, shops and bars — was beautified. It leaves a good impression on jaded cruiseship visitors, as well. Places like Scappata Casa di Mare have contributed to a more upscale restaurant scene, as well.

A more inclusive beach Five floating wheelchairs and a set of movable rubber ramps were installed last year in Progreso. These are among the new amenities now available to visitors with disabilities. The new infrastructure also includes three wheelchair-accessible bathrooms, showers, signage in braille, and improved ramps to access the boardwalk and beach with greater ease. Even a merry-go-round has been designed with a ramp and places for wheelchairs.

Walk with dinosaurs Just a few minutes from Progreso, Chicxulub’s Sendero Jurásico offers visitors the opportunity to walk a roughly one-kilometer path lined with large dinosaur figures and great photo opportunities. The park has proven to be popular with families, and especially children. Meanwhile, the new Museo del Meteorito on Progreso’s malecón has even more dinosaur-themed exhibits, many high-tech. Tickets required for both. YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

~ Puebla ~ Oaxaca ~ ~ Mexico City ~ ~ Chiapas ~ With Yucatán Magazine Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht YucatanMagazine.com/tours

What’s New

On the run With the increasing popularity of running in Yucatán over the past decade, so have athletic events, from 5-km fun runs to full-on marathons. Though most of these events have been concentrated in Mérida and Progreso, over the past few years they have started to pop up across the state. One of the most popular of these is Valladolid’s half-marathon that kicked off in 2019 and is now preparing for its third installment, but this time as a full marathon to be held on Oct. 3, 2022.

Villas Vallazoo On the outskirts of Valladolid, Villas Vallazoo offers luxury cabañas in a natural environment. Each of the cabañas is decorated in the theme of a different species of animal native to the Yucatán, including monkeys, jaguars, and macaws. The cabañas are surrounded by the Vallazoo natural reserve which is home to over 250 endemic plant species as well as many of the animals the cabañas are themed around. Bicycles are also for rent, as is the use of a mini-golf course — somewhat of a rarity in Yucatán.

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

What’s New

Get outta here Mérida’s Manuel Crescencio Rejón International Airport may not be as large a hub as Cancún’s — but with more and more domestic and international flights, it has never been easier to fly into the White City. The airport operates flights to and from Houston, Dallas, Miami, Las Vegas, Toronto, and Havana — as well as a new route connecting to Guatemala, which puts the beautiful destination of Flores within easier reach. TAG Airline’s president, Marcela Toriello, said even more Central American destinations are coming. Aside from daily flights to domestic destinations such as Mexico City, Monterrey, and Oaxaca, Volaris begins flights to Guanajuato on Nov. 18. That makes jaunts to places like San Miguel de Allende all the more feasible.

PHOTO: RAVI KHALSA

Digging around

Xiol (above) is a recently excavated archaeological site just in Kanasín’s industrial zone. It is made up of seven restored Puuc-style structures from the late-Classic period, roughly 600 to 800 CE. Xiol translates as “spirit of man.” But this name was only recently given to this ancient site by INAH; its original name has been lost to time. The site is easily observable from the highway and is expected to open to the public in 2023.

Kulubá has been known to archaeologists since the 1930s, but is only now gaining much attention thanks to ongoing excavations. The site is 35 miles from Tizimín and is officially still closed to the public, though it is still possible to visit. Like Xiol, Kulubá is expected to open in 2023. Kulubá is known for its grand Puuc palaces and relative isolation from other ancient Maya capitals. Bring plenty of water and dress for the heat if you go.

During the construction of the Tren Maya — or Mayan Train — tens of thousands of artifacts have been found, including hundreds of well-preserved sculptures, pottery vessels, and burial sites. Even more exciting, several previously unknown temples and even entire cities and settlements were announced. Not too many details have been published, but sources assure us that they are truly mindblowing.

ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Business owners, say ‘hi’ to the expats

Thousands of new residents, retirees, and digital nomads from the US and Canada are in Mexico to stay. Are they your customers yet? Let us make the introductions. The creative agency for Yucatán Magazine will get your brand name out front.

info@roofcatmedia.com

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

So many ways to help.

Los Mayas Eternos is a nonprofit foundation that works in Mayan communities to improve the quality of life of ancestral peoples. With a focus on health, social welfare and nutrition, our foundation is focused on vulnerable children and indigenous woman. You can help. Contact Pedro Tec, peterajaw@yahoo.com 46

ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

HOMES LAND PROPERTIES AND PROFESSIONALS

A villa fit for friends and family

PLUS: Uncomplicating the process of selling your home

Page 48

Page 50 YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

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47 No. 6

Luxury Listing

A Montecristo villa has kept friends and family close By Lee Steele

n enormous villa in one of Mérida’s most prestigious neighborhoods succeeded in its main objective: keeping family and friends close. A matriarch with an exceptional eye for detail and one of Yucatán’s most celebrated architects collaborated to build this villa masterpiece. Now the family has made the agonizing decision to downsize, a rare opportunity for buyers. Prestigious architect Alvaro Ponce was very understanding, she says, when she kept perfecting the floor plan. And as a result, this family home is very well thought-out. Lots of storage, excellent flow, various rooms for privacy or for entertaining, and two service quarters with full baths. Every bedroom has a walk-in closet and its own full bath and outdoor patio. The kitchen, a cook’s dream, has not one but two separate pantry spaces, and a roomy laundry area.

Authentic Mayan stone pillars and arches and French roof tiles were blended into this very solid and contemporary 2009 American-style home. Villa Montecristo was built to keep a family contented under one roof, and it easily became the place for holiday gatherings, birthdays, and other festive occasions. There's parking for three in the garage, and room for up to five more cars outside within the high fences of the property. The foyer leads past a dramatic water feature to a spacious covered stone patio, bar, and pool. Mature gardens are thriving throughout. Montecristo is in Mérida’s northeast and is one of the city’s finest residential areas. The area is also exceptionally peaceful and quiet, yet close to the city’s main arteries for quick access to shopping and restaurants.  For more information or a private tour contact Colm at colmyucatan@gmail.com / 999-169-6430 or Mitch at miguelsmexico@gmail.com / 999-920-6856.

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ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Luxury Listing

Villa Montecristo Living Area: 21,000 square feet Bedrooms: 6 Bathrooms: 9 Parking: 3 in garage, 5 more stacked Amenities include: Pool, stone patio with bar, marble floors, two pantries adjacent to a cook's kitchen with commercial gas range, high walls for privacy and security Offered at: US$1,399,000 (under current conversion rates) Learn more at mexintl.com, Property Number 5843

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

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Property Professionals

Plano

has a plan to streamline the complicated process of selling your home.

It used to be 1 to 2 months to close on a home sale. Now it's taking 4 to 6 months. Here's what happened, and how Plano cuts through the bureaucracy.

times what they paid. On paper, this is a big gain, but factoring in the cost of renovation, not so much. How would all this be worked out by the government and what capital gains would he owe? From researching online, Brent couldn’t tell what his capital gains burden would be. Depending on what he read the answer was n 2009, Brent bought a house in Mérida anywhere between 10k or 100k in US dollars. Centro. The house was a small ruin that All the advice he read said that you seek sat on one of Mérida's typical long lots. He the advice of a professional to understand the paid 60K USD. details of your particular situation. So he tried. Alongside his partner Stan, they renoHis first stop was again his real estate agent. vated and tripled the size of the home, greatly But with the recent rules changes, even the increasing its value in realtor didn’t know. There are many delays caused the process. Brent tried Fast forward 12 by all the extra paperwork and connecting with a years and late last few lawyers to get last-minute surprises when year, the couple professional advice. buyers learn about their closing While each lawyer decided it was time costs 1-2 days before the close, was happy to assist, for a change and so they put the house and try to back out of the deal or they would only start up for sale. So how with him push back the closing date by a working does one sell a home after he got a firm few months to give them time offer from a buyer. in Mexico? Brent had questions. This was a problem to fix the issues. How should he go because Brent wanted about figuring out what documents he needs to prepare in advance and receive information to gather and get himself organized? While necessary to plan his sale. In his mind, there the real estate agent said that he should was no point running around last minute relax until he closed a deal with a buyer, Brent when it was too late when he had time to get wasn’t so sure. He had heard stories from it sorted now. friends about how it took them months to The situation was extra complicated close or that when they did, they received because Brent had previously renovated. In surprisingly large tax bills. such cases, sellers need to demonstrate the This is not what Brent wanted. While he cost of their renovations so that these costs was waiting for a buyer to make an offer, surely are deducted from the gain in the property he could get organized and obtain some value. The government wants facturas, but answers to his questions. Brent doesn’t have any. He renovated it in Apart from getting organized, the biggest 2009 before the introduction of electronic question of all is how much he would be invoices. How was he supposed to prove expected to pay in capital gains taxes. Today, expenses? the renovated property is worth about 10 Closing the sale of a house has always

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been a chore for sellers. Sellers need to gather a lot of paperwork. In Mexico, this means finding a lawyer to assist with the gathering of all the right paperwork to complete the transaction. From there, both the seller and the buyer need a notario to actually execute the deal and record the new owner of the property with the government registry. Both the lawyer and the notario incur a cost to the seller of between 2 and 4% of the overall sale value. In combination with the real estate agent fee of 5-6%, again paid by the seller, this can add up to a large amount for the seller. On the buyer side, the government imposes a tax on the acquisition of the property. This tax is based on the value of the property and ranges between 2 and 6% in Yucatan.

The process has gotten harder Recent changes in the law that came into effect in early 2022 are making it harder still. New state laws in Yucatán now require each sale to be registered at its appraised value. The state is also tightening the process around the Plano Catastral, a document you receive from the municipality that shows the official boundaries of your property. If the document is old and doesn’t meet new standards, the city has to come to your home and reassess your boundaries. The new rules around appraisals are catching sellers off guard. Before the rule went into effect, the value recorded with the government for the sale was often lower than the actual amount that changed hands. For example, longtime Mérida real estate agent Keith Heitke had clients recently who bought their house for US$400,000, but on paper, the registered value was US$200,000. Now that they are going to sell for 500K, their gain on paper is 300K even though their house has ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Instead of taking four weeks to complete and costing around US$1,000, it is now taking up to six months and costing up to $4,000 with these costs being split between the seller and the buyer. With the costs and frustrations mounting, many professional property flippers are considering leaving the business.

Back to Brent

After putting his own Mérida home on the market, Brent Marsh saw a need to help clients navigate the choppy waters of home sales in Mexico by streamlining the paperwork.

only appreciated 100K since they purchased it. At an assessed rate of around 30% for capital gains, the seller now faces a tax bill of close to USD $100,000 in capital gains based on the low recorded value of the property at the time of purchase. With the new law requiring the recording of the property at its full value, sellers are often unaware that they may be in this situation where additional tax is owed. Instead of finding out before they reach a deal with a

handle the new workload. The state has also become more particular about the documents that are required to close the sale and are often asking sellers to re-survey their properties to confirm and update boundaries. All of this is creating strains on the service professionals required to complete the work and delays on closings. Mitch Keenan, owner of the real estate firm Mexico International for the past 25 years, says that he now advises his agents not to schedule their closings in anything under 90 days, and even adds another 60 to 90 days just in Why don’t lawyers want to work on case it can’t be completed in even your closing until you have a deal? that amount of time. Because by law, it is the buyer who gets These delays are creating havoc to decide the notario who will execute for buyers and sellers who need to fly to Mérida to attend their closing the sale. As such, the seller doesn’t in person. Changing airline tickets necessarily know who the notario will or purchasing last minute because be until they get a buyer. The lawyer of the uncertainty is adding cost doesn’t know if they will get the work. and frustration to the process. Real estate agent Robert Slaats said They are therefore hesitant to start his clients are frustrated and angry advising the sellers. because they don’t understand what the long delay is all about. buyer, they are finding out a few days before To make matters worse, there are also the closing when there is no longer time to problems with fideicomisos. In the “old days” do anything about it. Sellers are being forced of five or six years ago, when a seller owned to pull out of deals at the last minute to give their property with a fideicomiso, it was a them time to reassess their situation and simple matter to transfer it to a new foreign reduce their tax liabilities. buyer. Now, not so much. Other delays have crept into the system. The banks are demanding that the fideWith the new requirement for appraisals, it is icomiso is voided and a new one is created for putting pressure on appraisers to ramp up to the buyer. YUCATÁN MAGAZINE | ISSUE 6

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Four months after realizing he needed to get himself organized, he was still working on the problem. One thought that kept coming back was how hard this was and how crazy it would be to start this process AFTER he got a deal with a buyer. After all, if it takes six months to get an offer on his house, and another six months to close the detail, couldn’t he do these things at the same time and cut the time in half? If sellers do the work, why can’t they be prepared to close the very day they get an offer. This thought was the impetus for Plano. In talking with friends in the real estate industry, as well as notarios, he formulated an answer. In February 2022, joined with three other experts in real estate and technology, they founded Plano with the goal of making it easier to buy and sell real estate. In true “postCOVID mode,” all four are in different parts of the world and are organizing the business with a combination of Zoom and WhatsApp. The goal of Plano is to solve two basic problems. It would give the seller a tool to become “clear to close” the minute a buyer showed up. For the buyer, Plano would give them a way to “Buy Now.” Best of all, the entire solution would be online so buyers and sellers could close a deal remotely. Brent doesn’t just want to solve the problem in Mérida. Buying and selling real estate is hard all over the world. A “Buy Now” button for the world of real estate. “Why not?” he says. “You can buy everything online these days, so why not real estate?”

So what is the hold up in Mexico? Notarios in Mexico do essentially three things with regards to real estate sales. They first check all the documents submitted by the seller and buyer are complete and accurate. They draft the paperwork to show the change in ownership of the property. Finally, they record the transaction officially with the government. The first of these functions can largely be 51

Property Professionals: Plano Appraisals, capital gains and the extra lawyering are pushing costs up for sellers. Buyers are paying more because Mérida just increased the acquisition tax — as high as 6% for higher-value homes. Here is how Plano removes unnecessary delays and guesswork in the process.

Plano for sellers

» » » » »

ellers get a document checklist of the paperwork they need S to gather for their specific houseent is produced in final form ellers get an estimate of their capital gains and advice on S fiscal strategies to improve their situation Sorting out their fideicomisos so that it doesn’t cause a delay. Organizes for them to close remotely owers the costs to close by cutting out most of the L intermediaries — specifically the lawyer

automated. If you have signed up for a new bank account or crypto product recently, you have probably encountered some of these “Know Your Customer” (KYC) solutions where customers ask you to upload your identity documents, verify your phone number with an SMS code and maybe even collect a selfie or biometric face scan. These KYC solutions are a much better way to gather the documents needed for a real estate transaction. You see up front exactly what is required and end the back-and-forth of email with the broker and the lawyer trying to figure out exactly what is required. As for the documents to transfer the title, this is largely boilerplate legal language. While it is important that these documents are drafted by a notario, there are a lot of contract preparation technologies that help make things more efficient. Plano sees this as a key to success. Instead of thinking about the documents as a bespoke piece of lawyering, Plano wants to drive the cost down by creating an assembly line for getting the documents created, signed, and recorded.

Earning your ‘clear to close’ badge While you can’t change the law, you can change how, and crucially when you do the paperwork. Plano has created an easy and specific process for sellers to understand what documents they need to gather and how to get it done. Plano can offer sellers instructions on how to gather the documentation themselves. Or with a few clicks they can authorize Plano to organize everything on their behalf. Plano can also produce the all-important Settlement Statement that details all of the taxes, fees, and other costs that are involved in the transaction. This document can be generated by sellers based on an estimated sales price so that sellers can see clearly what the costs at the start of the process instead of at the end when it is too late. Plano also offers resources to sellers on fiscal strategies to 52

Plano for buyers

» » »

uyers get a remote and B streamlined closing uyers know exactly when B they can move in lano helps buyers with P all the move in particulars including keys, a walkthrough of the property, and more.

Putting his own Mérida home on the market gave Brent Marsh an ingenious business idea.

manage their tax liabilities, including connections to accounting and tax planning experts when required. By delivering these services online via a web app, Plano can cut out the lawyer and a number of other intermediaries to save sellers money and time. Plano will still work with a notario to legally complete the transfer of title to the seller, but with a streamlined process that works at the speed of the Internet, things are both cheaper and quicker. Once a seller is “clear to close,” a “Buy Now” button can appear on their online real estate listing. Buyers who are comparing multiple properties across multiple sites know that property listings with this button SPONSORED CONTENT

are ready to buy, often on the same day as they make the offer. Giving a buyer the ability to move in the same day their offer is accepted is an exciting innovation that doesn’t currently exist anywhere in Mexico. Within the country, Plano started in Mérida with a partnership with Mexico International (MexIntl.com), the largest real estate agency in Mérida serving foreign buyers. However, Mexico International is just the beginning. Brent sees a day when there is a buy button on every real estate website in Mexico and ultimately the world. And to think that this innovation started in Mérida.  To learn more: contact@plano.earth. plano.earth/ ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Pro Tips

Architect or contractor? By Cory Gash

ou braved the Mérida real estate market and found your home. It has good bones but it needs improvements to make it into your dream. Now what? How do you select an architect or contractor to make the changes? The first decision is whether to hire an architect to do the design, or a contractor to do the design and the construction. This decision will be based in part on your needs and personality. Are you the type of detailed-oriented person who likes to have everything planned before you start a project? Then an architect is for you. Or are you the type who likes to make decisions as you go? Then a contractor might be your best choice. Some advantages of the architect approach — first, the house will be better planned to meet your living needs. Most architects have long lists of questions on how the homeowner lives, how the house will be used, the styles the homeowner prefers, and the preferred colors. The architect will meet with you several times before starting the design and several times after the preliminary design is completed to ensure that the house reflects

your vision and lifestyle. Second, when the house is fully designed prior to obtaining construction quotes, then the construction quote will likely have very few changes as construction proceeds. If you want to limit construction cost surprises, then this process might work better for you. Finally, when you shop for an architect, you are usually selecting a style. Photos of their other

There are advantages and disadvantages to either, depending in part on your needs and personality. work and examples of drawings and specifications that they have provided to other customers are excellent indicators of whether you will be happy with the final work product. Perhaps the biggest advantage of the contractor (“one-stop shopping”) approach will be time. The design process is abbreviated and this should result in saving several months in the overall schedule. Second, a contractor will often be less expensive, as they charge less for the design phase than a company that only does design. The contractor typically makes

its profit on the construction phase — the design phase is often viewed as a “foot in the door.” Third, if you are renovating in stages, it is often best to use a contractor. Most architects prefer to design a large project rather than just designing a kitchen overhaul. The final big advantage of the contractor is that they will also handle the permitting process. Most architects do not handle INAH or local governmental permits as the architect will not be implementing construction to ensure compliance with the permit. But the contractor typically handles permits as well as construction, has contacts within the governmental agencies to speed this process, and knows how to design to meet the preferences of regulatory personnel. Both ways work. If you are renovating only a rental home, then the contractor route would probably be preferred. With a rental, you are not as selective with the design, and the cost and time savings are important. But if you are planning to live in this house on a full-time basis, then make sure it is designed as you need it.  Cory Gash owns Burro y Flauta Vacation Homes, which has served thousands of clients over the last seven years.

Find the customers who found Yucatán Foreign residents, expats, gringos, the international community. Whatever you want to call the English-speaking folks who are investing here, Yucatán Magazine is the platform to connect with them.

Unbeatable exposure. Our targeted print distribution includes 4,000 color, glossy printed copies sent to paid subscribers in the US, Canada, and Mexico and offered free in over 300 boutique hotels, guesthouses, and rental homes in Yucatán. This is backed up by local daily content for 67,000 monthly visitors at yucatanmagazine.com and a weekly newsletter with 5,000 subscribers. We appeal to an audience that appreciates Yucatán for its beauty, its culture, its possibilities. That’s why our platform enjoys the market’s highest social-media reach in English with nearly 27,500 followers. Get our media kit for the whole story. Contact Yesica Benitez, marketing director: yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com

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Framed | Marisol Castro

Stories of La Ermita

TEXT AND PHOTOS EDUARDO VÁZQUEZ

arisol Castro was born and grew up in La Ermita de Santa Isabel, one of downtown Mérida’s most iconic and lively barrios. Since she was a child she has looked beyond the surface of her environment, perceiving even the smallest or overlooked details of daily life. Everyday sights and sounds — a bakery tricycle tooting its horn, noisy patrons in cantina doorways, or even the area’s peculiar cobblestoned streets — are at the center of her artwork. She describes such situations as the “symbology of the city.” In 2019, Marisol founded La Patrona Graphic Art Studio, which she describes as a “space for developing projects that fuse the graphic arts, anthropology, and popular iconographies.” This workshop is not only for her personal production but also a place for gathering, learning, and exchanging knowledge with others. She has held classes to introduce her neighbors and the wider community to the graphic arts. Her style, with its important emphasis on anthropological aspects, was defined in the series “En cada calle, microhistorias a través de la estampa,” based on tales told by the inhabitants of different neighborhoods. This was the moment she realized her artwork would focus on the collective imagination and city icons. Marisol describes her style as gráfica popular,

and she believes art should be available to everyone: she decided the next step was to print this collection herself on T-shirts. Marisol’s work has been exhibited in the Museo Nacional de la Estampa and TACO ARTE Espacio de Arte Contemporáneo in Mexico City, as well as the Museo de Arte Moderno in Durango. In Mérida, Marisol is now one of those city icons telling microhistorias; Hostal Barrio Vivo commissioned her to create a mural for the lobby illustrating the life and culture of the La Ermita neighborhood.  Instagram: @lapatronagraphic

ISSUE 6 | YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

EVERY CITY NEEDS A GOOD BURGER JOINT

/ flamanteburgers

Calle 64 x 47 Centro, Merida

Villa Montecristo us$1,399,000 Listing 5843

SEE STORY INSIDE FOR MORE DETAILS Pages 48-49