II - Proccess Analysis Document by Rosalynd Mair

“Two are better than one, because they have a good reward for their toil. For if they fall, one will lift up his fellow. But woe to him who is alone when he falls and has not another to lift him up! Again, if two lie together, they keep warm, but how can one keep warm alone? And though a man might prevail against one who is alone, two will withstand him—a threefold cord is not quickly broken.” Ecclesiastes 4:9-12

Taking inspiration from an influential aspect of my life, “II” positively represents the idea of twins. Twins are referenced throughout many different cultures in various ways, and this collection explores these deeper meanings of twins. Focusing primarily on the greater side of twins, as this strong bond has had an extremely positive aspect on my life, my collection portrays this through a sweet niavity and playful style. Looking back over my life as a twin I chose to centre my attention on the earlier stages of my life as this is where I feel the bond of being twins is most evident, experiencing everything together for the first time. The strength of this unbreakable bond between two siblings, born and raised together, is represented though the strong angular lines of pleating, which not only portrays this aspect but also the idea of repetition and the similarity between twins, both physically and psychologically. The colours inspired by the first family holiday me and my brother partook in, are bold and striking with a hint of darker neutral tones, which mirrors the joy of being a twin and the bright energy it brings to a child growing up, always having the comfort of having someone else there with you at all times, a feeling I believe only twins truly understand. Taking inspiration from the Spring/Summer 2017 trend “Digital Wave” the silhouettes of the garments reflect the popular 80s androgynous styling of this trend as well as showing off a more masculine side representing fraternal twins. This loose tailored style also represents a relaxed nature that comes with the comfort of having a twin. Knowing that being a twin holds a strong meaning to those who are, the collection also represents what being a twin means to those who are not. Researching into various cultural meanings throughout history the idea of twins have strong symbolic meanings. Whether that be the Hindu belief of the positive power of twins and the great wisdom they behold or the negative view of the Native American culture who fear their extremely strong power, all cultures agree on the strong energy held by both twins whether that is something to be feared or praised. These contrasting views are represented through a black and white print, that not only contrasts with itself but also with the energetic and bright colour palette that reflects the comfort of having a

twin. The print itself is a combination of various symbols that have been given to twins to represent their powerful nature, and joining these together represents how universally twins are understood to be an amazing and exciting thing. The most common feature of twins, that is shown in almost every culture, and that is very much understood is that twins despite having an undeniably strong connection and extreme similarities, they are very much individual people, to entities that just happen to be from the same mould. Despite being the strong individuals that they are, they always carry an element of the other within them at all times, showing that the bond of twins exceeds distance and time, meaning that they are never truly apart. Believing that this portrayal of twins was very compelling and identifiable I wanted to convey this strongly in my collection. This is represented through peek-a-boo pleating, having the symbolic print or contrasting colour as the inner pleat making it stand bold behind the outer pleat. This way creating a concealed element to the garments that is only revealed at certain angles or through movement mirroring the idea that twins always carry a hidden part of their twin with them at all times. One of the most well-known and identifiable symbols of twins is the Greek symbol Gemini, which is representative of the strong bond between twins and the sacrifices they will make for each other. As Gemini is also commonly associated with horoscopes and the month of your birth, this symbol is combined with that of me and my twin’s horoscope, Taurus, ensuring that there is an aspect of us within the collection. Combining the signs star constellations to make an interesting design, it is embossed to add an interesting and unique texture to selected areas of the garments. This is done in a more subtle way to compliment the already very bold designs and features of the garments, adding a slight depth and fragility to the garments, contrasting with the very eccentric colours. The idea of the repetition of twins, and how they are two parts of the one entity is portrayed through the duplication of key details in the garments, whether that be double pocket features, zips, seams, collars, cuffs and layers. These features have also been repeated in differing colours to further represent the hidden aspect of the other twin, or through embossing one of the double features. All these elements combined represent twins in an exciting and energetic way not only representing the positive, carefree nature being a twin has on you, but also the added strength and power being one of two has.

Wanting to create a fashion collection that was personal to me, allowing the garments to have a strong depth and meaning I turned to, what I feel is one of the main influences in my life - being a twin. This is a huge part of who I am and I felt that something so influential to me should shape my final collection. I began reflecting on my life as a twin and found, by looking at childhood photographs of me and my brother growing up, that the inseparable bond was most evident in our younger years. Growing up experiencing everything for the first time, we always had the comfort of each other, making us a strong team. The images all illustrate two happy siblings that clearly have an incredibly close bond, and this positive energy is what I want to portray and showcase in my collection. Not only do I want to reflect this unrivalled bond, something I feel only twins themselves will truly understand, but also how the idea of the pair is seen from outsiders. Throughout the world, various cultures have different symbolic meanings for the sibling duo differing in their positive and negative views, yet all beliefs were extremely interesting in their persuit to these understandings.

Romulus and Remus were the sons of Mars, who feared they would hold extreme power, being a combined duo and therefore ordered them to be killed. The servant however, could not do it, leaving them to be raised by a shepherd. When older, the brothers came into conflict, which resulted in Remus being captured by the King who had ordered their death so long ago. Romulus therefore reared an army enabling him to have the power to kill the king, after saving his brother both were offered a dual crown but refused wanting to rule their own cities. This resulted in a great battle between two strong powers, leading to the death of Remus. Romulus named the city after himself, and Rome was formed.

In Greek mythology, the twins Pollux and Castor, represent the contradictory aspects of twins. Pollux was immortal and possessed great strength, with castor being mortal but exceeding in logic. Rather than being parted by death they agreed to share immortality by living alternating lives between heaven and earth. The myth demonstrates the eternal union and mutual reliance of conscious reasoning and unconscious belief in the refusal of the twins to be separated. Duality is a centre feature in the sign of Gemini. It is the understanding that contradictory forces must be brought together and recognised as mutually dependent upon each other. The central belief that polar opposites cannot exist without the other and despite their contrasting differences they are intricately intertwined.

From the veneration of godly twins Mowa and Lisa, they represent the active male and passive female energy, they personify the sun and moon together to create a hermaphrodite god that symbolises inseparable divine unity. Twins, especially if they are boy and girl, are considered earthly delegates of these twin gods. The birth of twins in every case is associated with a number of problems as they are exceptionally powerful creatures. It is highly recommended to deal with both twins in the same way as they react in a very sensitive way to any differences made between them.

The symbol describes how apparently opposite or contrary forces are actually interconnected and interdependent. Yin and Yang are complementary rather than opposing forces that interact to form a dynamic system in which the whole is greater than the assembled parts. It is impossible to talk about one without the other as they are bonded parts of a mutual whole that cannot survive without the other. Although all cultures have their own take on the idea of the duo, what they do agree upon is that this combination creates a strong bond which results in a great power, whether this is seen in a positive or negative light. Another important feature of twins, is that twins despite being two entities from the same mould are individual people. Notwithstanding the unique beings that they are, they always carry an element of the other within them, showing that the bond of twins exceeds distance and time. Believing that this portrayal of twins is very compelling and identifiable I want to convey this strongly in my collection.

Being a fraternal twin I wanted to show this in my collection, taking away from the automatic assumption of identical twins that people possess. After considering various ways of conveying this male/female vision, including a combined womenswear/menswear collection but it was felt this would reflect the idea that twins are two completely separate people and not of them being individuals who still carry a part of the other within them. Deciding to look at the concept from my own personal perspective, I therefore came upon the idea of designing a womenswear collection with a hint of an androgynous style, showing off the element of my brother. Looking into future fashion predictions, focusing mainly on summer trends to convey the positive, bright mood that comes with the comfort of being part of a pair. The Spring/Summer 2017 trend Digital Wave strongly portrays this concept alongside showcasing loose silhouettes and styles that fit strongly with the androgynous image I want to portray. Loose tailoring, boxy styles and an almost shapeless look not only conveyed a less traditionally feminine look, but also created a casual look conveying the relaxed and comfortable nature of being one of two. The styling of the trend was also reminiscent of the 1980s so looked into this to further inspire the silhouette of the collection. Turing my attention back to the interpretation of showing the hidden twin held within the other sibling ideas of conveying this were conjured. Ideas of splitting garment directly down the middle with contrasting halves were rejected as this would be too obvious an interpretation and did not covey the idea of the hidden sibling. Looking into the idea of a hidden lining for a more subtle approachâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; having the outer garments a bold solid colour with the lining contrasting through its intricate detailing and more subtle tones. The print is to be inspired by the different cultural interpretations of the twin symbol. These symbols and marking styles would create uniquely interesting shapes filled with detail and illustrate the deeper meaning of being a twin in an exciting way.

When choosing a colour palette, I turned back to the childhood photographs of me and my brother to try and capture the colours that not only surrounded us but reflected our upbringing in a carefree, relaxed environment. After initially choosing a dark, masculine colour palette, it came across dull and did not convey the exciting energy that I really wanted to show. The final colours, inspired by a photograph of the first family holiday me and my brother shared, are bold and striking with darker neutral tones, which mirrors the joy of being a twin and the bright energy it brings to a child growing up.

After documenting and exploring into all these ideas they were combined into designs. Focusing primarily on silhouette and shaping to begin with, the idea of the hidden garment detailing was experimented with. The designing of individual garments was focused on primarily, these were then combined to create outfits made from the strongest designs. Colour was then added to the garments, experimenting with different combinations to create a cohesive collection.

After researching into different cultural interpretations of twins, the different representations were appealing and there almost tribal look. Feeling that these were strong images that could be combined to make an interesting print, various layering and placement combinations were experimented with. The idea of having the same print but in different colours, to be used in separate garments was interesting, so therefore each colour from the colour palette was selected as the background of the print, creating four variations. After experimenting with several different print ideas, it was felt that none of them were strong enough to carry the collection. After further experimentation the desired look was still not being achieved therefore further research was taken into different symbols to create an entirely new print. These images were later combined to produce a design that was exciting and strongly convey the message of the collection. After adding the colours to the print, each was bold and eccentric creating an exciting print to be taken forward into the final designs.

Creating the pattern for this garment, beginning with the t-shirt block adjusting it to reflect the design, panels were added for the pleated sections. The intention for these panels was to first pleat the fabric then cut out the pattern pieces as it was felt that this would be the most effective method. The pleated fabric was created by cutting strips of fabric for the inner and outer pleats which were then sewn together and pressed. In constructing the garment, particular attention was paid to the sewing of the pleated panels to ensure they did not open upon sewing. On completion it was observed that the neckline was too tight and the sleeves too wide, therefore this was adjusted. The garment was then reconstructed to ensure its suitability, this time the pleats were left out and basic panels were sewn as it was felt it would be more efficient to perfect the basic silhouette of the garment before adding the pleated detail. Upon completion of the toile it was more of an appropriate fit and gave the desired look that was wanted.

Pleated panels were placed in the appropriate places on the trouser block - which had been adjusted to reflect the more tapered fit. It was decided that the bottom panels would be one panel for the back and front, removing the seam so to not interrupt the smoothness of pleats. This was not done for the upper panels as inseam pockets were to be sewn in. On inspection of the completed toile, the overall shape and look of the garment was successful, however where the front and back panels met at the seam, the pleats did not match up. This would be hard to achieve, especially when the pockets are added, it was decided to remove the pocket detailing to allow the pleats to be in one panel removing this issue. In adjusting the pattern to make this amendment, simply joining the pieces was not suitable. Due to the pieces following the natural curve of the body they did not fit together nicely, therefore they were overlapped creating a piece similar to the bottom pleat panel. After retoiling this amendment, the garment was successful.

After selecting the jacket block in a size bigger, to ensure a loose fit, the shoulder darts were removed taking away the slightly tailored element. The pleats were then marked and positioned appropriately down the front of the garment. The sleeves were also adjusted to fit in with the loose style. Upon review of the toile, there was a clear issue with the sleeve of the garment. Due to the weight of the fabrics, the pleats opened up, where there was not a seam, creating a very large curved sleeve. After initially tacking each pleat along the top of the sleeve and the under arm, it was found to give the desired look but was not the most effective method. A two piece sleeve was then considered creating two seams which would hold the pleats more securely. It was decided that pleating both sleeve pieces would cause difficulty when matching up the pleats especially as both pieces are on the curve, therefore a sample sleeve was made where only the top sleeve was pleated - this removed the matching issue and some added weight reducing the risk of the pleats separating. This method was chosen completing the toiling process for this garment.

To create the desired flared look of these trousers, the darts were removed from the trouser block. This created too much volume so adjusted this width at the bottom and tapered up the leg. The waistband was also dropped to fit the desired style. The pleats were created by using the shape of the trouser leg forming a nice parallel line ensuring they would fall nicely. After originally doing this without added seams this was found to be impractical and would take away from the nice fall that was desired. Seems were therefore added to ensure a more fluid look. On review of the competed toile, the overall appearance was successful, however the waist was slightly too low so was adjusted. Upon retoiling it was determined that the trousers were complete.

Using the t-shirt block, and learning from the process of O1, the neckline was widened. The sleeves were also adjusted to reflect the flared shape and the square panel shape marked. When sewing the square panel into the toile, the corers were snipped to allow them to sit appropriately. Despite doing this, the panel still did not sit correctly â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it was examined that I needed to snip more directly into the corner. This was then retoiled achieving the desired look.

The darts were removed from the front of the skirt block to create the looser styled shape that was aimed for, alongside extending the length. A pleat panel was then added to complete the base layer. It was decided to keep one of the darts at the back of the skirt to allow a little shaping of the garment. For the top layer, a large rectangle, 他 the width of the base skirt, was drafted and adjusted to create desired change in length between under and top layer. This was then toiled successfully.

Using the shirt block as a base, the sleeves were adjusted to create the baggier look that was desired. Then pleat panel was then created measuring the appropriate width and tapering to armhole. This created a split in the piece, so the traditional seam edges were joined to create a new large panel. For the sleeve placket, decided the most successful way to achieving the correct shape was to toile it until reaching desired look, and then to make pattern. This feature was to be sewn not on a seam so this made the process a little harder but the sampling process allowed any problems amended, before adding the cuff. A yoke was added at the back slicing the pattern at the middle of the armhole and squaring across. The collar piece was then drafted fitting desired design. For the concealed button stand followed traditional methods but added a seam allowing the section to be in a different fabric. During the toiling process it was discovered that the collar was too small therefore this was adjusted. Overall look of toile was successful.

Instead of drafting the pattern using the dress block, the t-shirt block was extended as this best reflected the shape of the design. The curve of the neckline was kept extending up to create the polo styling. Pleat panels were created by splitting the front piece down the middle then positioned in desired place. Upon inspection of toile, due to the way the polo neck was drafted it did not sit flat on the body. This was therefore adjusted on the pattern alongside making the neckline higher so to sit further up the neck. Also due to using the t-shirt block and extending to dress length, the garment was a little tight around the hips, giving a more fitted look rather than was intended, therefore this was adjusted and re-toiled successfully.

Using the t-shirt block again and extending the pleated side panels were added to the front and back pieces under the armhole. These were then joined, removing the seam and creating one large panel. For the top pleat panels, running along the shoulders and arm, began by marking on the front and back piece the desired measurement. These pieces were then placed together removing the shoulder seam. After marking the centre front of the sleeve, the pleated panel was marked ensuring it as the same width as the shoulder panel. It was then decided that the traditional sleeve seam was to be removed as this was no longer needed. To begin the toiling process, the side pleat panels were joined to the front and back of the dress, followed by the attachment of the sleeve panels. The sleeve was then joined to the main body by sewing the panel at the shoulders first and then the armhole. On examining toile, the panels at the shoulders were not sitting fluid, this was due to the order in which the pieces had been sewn. The neckline also was too high, so altered this and re-toiled. This time when constructing, the side pleat panels were attached first, followed by the main arm pieces, leaving the arm and shoulders open. The pleat panel was attached, running along the sleeve and shoulders, meaning the panel was sewn at the one time allowing creating a fluid line. This toile was more successful and had the overall desired look. 26

Used the tailored jacket block as base, the shoulder darts were removed following the jacket styling. The pleat panel was marked on the back of the dress and the sleeves adjusted to give a looser fit. For the collar feature, the positing, style and shape were planned based on design. When it came to the attachment of the collar, during the toiling process, it did not fit correctly with the rest of the garment â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it was discovered that it would be more effective if a different collar type was used. Therefore, this was changed and then attached to the coat with more success. On completion, the coat met the design look that had been intended.

Starting with the trouser block, the front darts were removed to add flare that - only one of the darts were removed from the back to prevent them being too baggy. The blouse block was then used to create the top. When placed on top of the trouser piece it was evident that the top was too wide so this was adjusted to create a more fitted shape. The pleat panels were then marked and the polo neck created. When toiling, it was decided that the pleat panels on the inside leg would be attached first. The top pieces were then attached before joining the shoulder seams, allowing the side-seam to be sewn down the garment in one fluid line. The sleeves a neck were then attached. After inspection of the toile it was obvious that the top piece was far too long. As the trouser and blouse block had been used, I had forgot to consider that the blouse naturally sits over the trousers. This was amended before retoiling created a successful garment.

Using the coat from O5 as a base, the collar was adjusted to reflect the design and the pleat panels added in following the same method as O5 dress. The toiling process began by attaching the lower pleat panels to the sleeves before joining the sleeves together. When joining together the main body of the coat, the shoulder panel was left out as it the garment would flow nicer over the shoulder if this panel was attached at the one time. The sleeves were then attached allowing this panel to be fitted in. The overall look of the toile was successful.

Upon review of collection, it was decided that more detail had to be added to the designs to make them more interesting. Fitting with the theme of twins, it was decided that double features such as double zips, pockets and layers. Therefore patterns were adjusted to reflect this, meaning that the garments had to be retoiled. Outfit 1 - Top A double layer was added to therefore current front piece was traced and adjusted to allow the layer underneath to be revealed. Outfit 1 - Coat Upon adding a double vent the existing one was replicated alongside drafting the pattern for the double welt pocket. Outfit 2 - Trousers Duplicating the existing waistband to reflect adjustment to design, the garment was retoiled. As double jet pocket feature was also added this was sampled, making sure that they were placed parallel to each other. Outfit 2 - Top Drawing around the existing sleeve pattern to create double sleeve feature, the length was adjusted to reveal under layer. The garment was then toiled successfully including this feature. Outfit 3 - Shirt A double layer at the front of the garment and double collar were added to the garment, so the existing pattern pieces were traced and adjusted. Also added was a double yoke so this was added to the pattern.After toiling overall look was successful look however, after trying garment on a model it was discovered that the style of the collar was too big and did not give the sharp look that was desired, therefore this was adjusted. The neck size was also too small so this was amended.

Outfit 4 - Dress A double zip feature was added to the back of the dress, so this was marked on the pattern. A double patch pocket feature was also added, therefore this feature was sampled. It was felt that the neckline was too small so the height of this was adjusted for a more dramatic look. Outfit 5 - Dress Added double layer at back of dress, so drew around existing back piece and adjusted to reveal under layer. Toiled garment successfully. Outfit 5 - Coat As a double collar had been added to the design the current collar pieces was traced â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but not as a grown on feature â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and adjusted. Upon drafting the back of the collar, it was decided that instead of pairing the two larger and smaller pieces together, that the under collar needed to have the smaller stand, to allow the top collar to sit over this, therefore the pattern pieces were marked to reflect this. A double seam was also added alongside a double cuff and pocket feature. The toiling process revealed a successful design. Outfit 6 - Jumpsuit The added double zip feature was marked appropriately on the pattern. Outfit 6 garment 2 coat A double collar feature had been added to the design therefore the existing collar was traced and adjusted. The pattern was also amended to include a double seam alongside the planning of the double pocket feature.

In completion of the initial toiling process, reaching a point where all the garments achieved the desired look, they could now be remade including the pleated panels and features. Different pleat widths were experimented with to explore what would be the most dramatic and aesthetically pleasing. For each garment I began by making the pleat panels, sewing the strips of fabric first to create one striped piece of fabric. The seams were then pressed flat before manipulating the pleats allowing the pattern pieces to be cut. Seeing the garments with the pleats added a really nice detail to them - the overall look and drape was effective and added a detailed yet bold feature. For some garments the pleating provided some manufacturing issues. For some of the garments where two different pleated sections meet at the seam, I had not considered there joining therefore when sewn together they did not match up creating a messy look. Particular consideration will be paid to this when making the final garments. As O4 dress has a lot of pleats running down one side of the garment it pulled at that side creating an uneven and disjointed appearance. The effect however was interesting and I wanted to keep this but in a more subtle way therefore I will use a lighter fabric for these pleats and a sturdier one on the plain panel to add strength which will hold these pleats better. Also in some of the garments the vertical pleats are curved which offsets the garment, this was due to the direction of the stretch in these pieces going vertically, I will therefore pay particular attention to this.

After adding double layer features, I wanted to have both layers different but was unsure of how. It was felt that different colours or added print would be overusing the print and the colours would be too much, therefore it was decided that another detail would be added. Looking back at the different symbols of twins, Gemini is one of the most common, therefore it was felt that this should be included in the garments. As the symbol is also commonly associated with horoscopes, it was combined with that of me and my brother, Taurus. Looking into the star constellations, the signs were embroidered to see what effect they would have. After experimenting with different placements, colours and combinations this created a successful effect, therefore the strongest design was selected. It was felt however, that implementing this design through embroidery would add a more intricate detailing which was not needed. The idea of having the design as a single colour seemed appropriate, so it was decided to emboss the designs on to the garments creating a subtle design that would add a nice detail to the garments. After making a stencil this affect was sampled successfully, resulting in it being carried into the final designs.

Upon review of the collection the overall judgement was positive. The pleats worked effectively in all the garments adding a unique detailing to the collection, however it was felt that not all the pleats needed to contain the print. This would appear too busy and take away from the successful detail of the pleats, so a block contrasting colour was to be considered allowing the hidden element still to be shown but in a cleaner way. This would also allow the garments that do have print to have a more dramatic look within the collection. The print itself was also considered to be a bit bland â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the overall design was liked but the colours needed to be adjusted, either to be more vibrant or to be monochrome. O3 The collar of the shirt was too big and did not give the sophisticated look that was desired. It was also too small, therefore this needed to be adjusted. O4 the pleats of the dress were discussed and whether or not they should be carried down the whole length of the garment, due to differing opinions I decided to stick with the original design as this is what I wanted for the garment. It was also mentioned that this should be one of the garments to have the pleats of the contrasting colour rather than print. The collar was also thought to be too small and should match that of the jumpsuit. O6 The assessment of the jumpsuit was very positive, with compliments to its flattering shape. I personally found the review very beneficial as it was the first time seeing all the garments and outfits together, showcasing the collection. The overall look and feel of collection could then be assessed, finding that it looked successful as a cohesive collection.

Reflecting on the comments aimed towards the print, it was decided to make it monochrome to create an interesting contrast. Slicing into the print was also experimented with, before rejecting the idea as it corrupted the symbols taking away from the strong meanings. Two final designs were created, one with a black background and the other white, which were to be carried into the final designs.

Outfit 1 Coat Following standard lining rules of added facings and adjusted measurement the pattern was drafted. Due to certain areas being pleated this had an effect on the pattern and construction of the lining â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as only one sleeve is to be pleated this sleeve would need a facing attached on after pleating rather than a grown on facing which will be applied to the opposite. Also due to the pleats running down the centre front of the coat there movement needs to be allowed therefore this panel of the lining will not be attached to the bottom coat facing. The lining of the double vent also caused slight issues, it was decided that the best way of attaching this would be to sandwich it in between the inner and outer pieces. After toiling a few amendments were needed - the vent had been paced incorrectly so particular care will need to be taken when making the final garment. Also the facings at the top of the coat were not correct so these needed to be adjusted. Upon retoiling the garment was successful. Outfit 5 Coat The same steps as O1 coat were followed but the double collar feature caused problems when making the facings. A facing that would be for the top collar and attached to the lining was created alongside a facing that would attach both collars together - to create this piece, the area between the two collars was drawn around from the previous toile. The pleated area at the back of the coat also brought up questions as to what would be the best way to line them allowing there movement, it was decided to leave the lining unattached at this area. However, it was not made to the same size of the pleat panel but flared to further allow the pleats to sit naturally. When toiling the coat and attaching the lining to the outer shell, a problem was faced when it came to attaching the collar, resulting in either there being an exposed seam or the top collar being hidden. This was due to a missing facing piece therefore the pattern was amended and the coat retoiled successfully.

Outfit 6 Coat Following the same steps as the previous coats, the pattern was drafted but the pleated panels were removed as these were not necessary. For the double collar, followed the same steps as O5. When constructing the toile, despite the precautions made, the collar proved problematic. This was due to an extra facing piece therefore this was removed, allowing the coat to be completed effectively.

Before constructing the final garments it was decided to plan the colour placement of the pleats, and whether they should be a bold colour or print. Different finishes of the pleats were also experimented with to ensure the most effective was implemented in the finals. The final garments were then constructed following the successful toiling method.

Trousers A successful final garment, although slight puckering at the corners of the pleated panels due to not snipping them correctly. I would also consider making the trousers in a different colour as the yellow is too striking. The fit of the garments is successful and the placement of the pleats are effective. Top When constructing this top a problem was faced when pressing the pleats in that they were curved. It was found that when sewing the machine fed one fabric through more than the other which was causing this problem, therefore this panel had to be reconstructed, pinning the strips in place. The double layer of the top also had to be pressed before construction. Upon review, the drape and look is successfully creating an elegant yet bold garment. Coat As one of my favourite garments of the collection, the a-symmetric style creates a unique look and the bold colour combination is effective.

Trousers As the simplistic garment in the collection, the trousers are elegant with a beautiful drape. The pocket detailing is slightly messy but effective despite this. The double waistband also adds an interesting feature. Top The bold colour combination of this garment is striking creating an energetic piece. There is a slight puckering on the front but this a minor issue with the effective pleating. The embossed double sleeves, also add a nice subtle detailing.

Shirt The combination of many details proves effective through their subtlety on this shirt. The contrasting features add a unique look with the pleats creating a bold hidden feature. Skirt The draping of this skirt is successful with the bold contrasting pleats opening up beautifully, especially through motion. I would consider adding a vent at the bottom of the underskirt however to allow more ease of movement to improve the successful design.

Dress As a uniquely successful garment this dress is bold and eccentric. The large amount of pleat detailing causes a nice drape to one side of the garment adding to its asymmetric beauty.

Dress The colour combination of this garment is exciting adding energy to a simple garment. The subtle double layer creates an interesting effect which pens upon movement. Coat The double cuff and collar detailing in this garment is successful with the colours working together very effectively. The collar at the back needs to be amended to sit nicer while on and the finishing of the pleats at the back needs to be reconsidered. Sewing the pleats would either result in them being forced open or shut taking away from their effect so these were tacked in place to allow this. Despite these issues it is successful making it one of my favourite garments in the collection.

Jumpsuit As one of the most elegant pieces to the collection, this jumpsuit has a flattering look. The pleats revealed by movement are very effective creating a successful design. Coat Made from a more subtle colour, this garment compliments the collection. It is however made from a slight lightweight wool which does not fully hold the double colour feature despite, this it is still a unique design.

Upon completion it is felt that the collection represents twins in an exciting way, not only representing the positive, carefree nature being a twin has, but also the added strength being one of two has. The collation of different twin aspects results in a bold and collection that represents the deep meaning being a twin has. The strong bond and positivity being a twin comes with is showcased through bright colours and bold pleating, which not only represents the added strength that comes with being a twin but the hidden element of your sibling that is carried within you. The relaxed silhouettes portray the comfort being one of pair has along with the cultural symbols showcasing how others view twins. Despite the few amendment that would be made, overall it is felt this bold and layered collection is successful, showcasing the strong deeper meaning of being a twin in a uniquely vibrant and exciting way.

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