Rouge Magazine AW19 by Rouge Magazine

ROUGE MAGAZINE VOL. I , ISSUE I A / W 2019 001/183

Rouge Magazine is the first and only fashion magazine at the University of Georgia. It was originally founded in August 2007 as the Little Red Book Magazine by three students within the College of Family and Consumer Sciences who recognized a need for a fashion-oriented publication. It became an official, registered student organization in 2008. Rouge Magazine is a biannual, full color publication funded by member dues and a once-yearly allowance from the Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s College of Family and Consumer Sciences. Rouge Magazine is distributed all over Athens, from multiple locations on campus to various boutiques downtown. Each issue is designed entirely from scratch by members of the general body in conjunction with the executive board, and can best be described as the product of eager passion and a true love for the fashion industry and all associated with it. Rouge Magazine aims to create content that inspires the student body to be bold, to serve as a resource for fashion related events from a variety of perspectives, and to stitch together a publication each semester that all students can draw something from, whether that be style inspiration, knowledge of the fashion industry, or an interesting graphic design scheme.

Run with Rouge! Instagram: @rouge.mag E-mail: editors.rouge@gmail.com Website: www.rougemag.squarespace.com

CO N T TABLE OF

Letter From the Editor: Vanessa Vassileva

11 14 Breaking Boundaries: The Future of Eco-Fashion

Going Rouge: Fashion Spread

12 30 Revolutionary Power Starts in Your Pocket

Going Rogue: From Maximalism to Minimalism

Japanese Takeover: Expanding Haute Couture 4

E N TS 35 38 47 50 Five Fashion Rules You Need to Break

Seeing Red: Fashion Spread

Make a Statement: Beauty Spread

Fifteen of Fashion's Biggest Rule Breakers

When Anger Gives Way to Art: A Brief History of Feminist Movements in Fashion

MEET THE TEAM 6

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

VANESSA VASSILEVA

REILLEY SHAMBLIN

DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS

TREASURER

JULIA JACK

LORI SOFIAN

DIGITAL CONTENT EDITOR

ASSISTANT DIGITAL CONTENT EDITOR

SAVANNAH FORDHAM

KATE MAZZA

WOMENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR

MENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR

MADELEINE HOWELL

GRACE BEDSOLE

GRAPHIC DESIGN EDITOR

PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR

MORGAN POSS

STEPHANIE LOPEZ

BLOG CONTENT EDITOR

WRITING EDITOR

LORA YORDANOVA

SHARON AUTRY

BEAUTY EDITOR

ASSISTANT BEAUTY EDITOR

CHRISTIN WALLS

ANNIE MOLCHAN

WEBSITE CURATOR

VIDEO EDITOR

CHRISTINE SUH

ALAINA BOOTH

GENERAL BODY MEMBERS Bridget Helms Samantha Solomon Rachel Allen Wells Maley Emily Jacobs Raye Claire Merlin Heather Mcabee Kaitlyn Rutledge Jackie Fox Jocelyn Pena Morgan Quinn Tara Ana Emma Gustafsson Randi Cass Ellie Knight Colette Blackmon Haley Wolf Sarah Corbin Megan Headley Wakefield Ausband Krista Shirley Alyssa Dickson Alex Escribano Elaine Garvey Jess Herring Amanda Merritt Blake Beeker Aaron McWhirter Sam Genzale Isabel Mezzacappa Grace Auman Alicia Pitts Katherine Rhodes Grace Wiggins Mary Sinsheimer Olivia Wakim

Greyson Emory Lakshana Hall Madhu Ravi Hayden Grant Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Keefe Johnson (Mamie) Morgan Young Madison Dickey Myah Steele Ary Brown Katie Plowman Sarah Edmonds Allie Erickson Anna Blair Sarsfield Emma Holmes Art Enloe Anna Madison Andrea (Emmy) Trowell Hannah Weeks Farah Hammady Ellie Sanchez Jozie Dill Natalie Neal Alana Stein Rachel Laird Allyn Haynes Joscelyn Cauley Maya Fordham Maya Laws Katelyn Bass Jamie Goble Ashlyn Ricks Gracie Skinner Hailey Hurd Pierce Pittman Camryn Turner Samantha Guiang

FROM THE EDITOR

Sometimes, the need for change is evident, with its impending nature felt by everyone. The rebrand of the magazine was one of those times for us. After the tenth anniversary of the university fashion magazine, it felt like time to switch things up in a big way. An entire summer of dreaming and scheming followed this thought, with a true zealous energy put forth by the members of the executive team as some of us traveled, the other half held internships, and most of us did both— it makes it easier to lead a large team when the common thread in each member is heart. And that is what Rouge represents. Aside from school schedules and a myriad of additional responsibilities, Rouge represents the choice to do more, to do your best and then some, and to go above and beyond what is expected of you. Participation and contribution to this magazine is not mandatory. Attendance at shoots on weekends is not mandatory. Red, with its strong connotations of energy and fire, passion and heart, captures perfectly the basis of what this magazine is, as well as the contagious spirit of the university it is housed under: a culmination of the desire by students to do their personal best and then better. Rouge represents a vision come to life of an operation larger than a singular person, larger than a student organization— it is a culmination of choices by students to add more to their plate, pursue their aspirations, and explore their fashiondriven interests. This is the very first issue of Rouge Magazine, and while some aspects have changed, the bottom line hasn’t: it is as much yours as it is ours. It may have been renovated, expanded in every direction, & shaped to be something different for everyone, but it is truly still as much yours as it is ours. Exist loudly—

Vanessa Vassileva

BREAKING BIO

BOUNDARIES:

THE FUTURE OF ECO-FASHION

by Emmy Trowell It’s no secret that the textile and fashion industries aren’t friendly to the environment. From the massive carbon emissions emitted during production to the thousands of toxic nano-fibres released into our water systems with every load of laundry, each stage of a garment’s life causes harm in some way. Mainstream sustainability efforts focus on extending the life of clothing (The Real Real, I love you!), ethical production, and reducing consumption

overall, but ultimately, even the most ecofriendly garments wind up in the landfill (“Life of a Garment,” 2019). Some textile science innovators are working to get around this problem. Rather than sentencing old clothes to the trash heap, they’re asking: what if we could simply toss our clothes in the compost? Enter: Biogarmentry, a project led by Roya Aghihi out of the University of British Colombia, which created the first living and photosynthesized textile in 2017. The textile is “a living, breathing material which uses cellular respiration to convert carbon dioxide into oxygen” (Aghihi, 2018). Essentially, it is a 100% natural textile spun with living cells. Completely absent of synthetic fibers and chemical finishes, the garment can be thrown in the compost when the user deems it old news. Did I mention that it photosynthesizes? A photosynthetic garment, according to Aghihi, is “a gift that will keep giving” (“Student Notable Personal Accessory Award,” 2019). It is true that producing this “living” garment does use resources, and even Aghihi has acknowledged the potential issues with producing a lab-made textile on a mass scale. However, the garment more than compensates for its resource usage with its ability to actively purify the air. The more a wearer dons the garment in the sun, the more carbon is photosynthesized into oxygen. The garment relies on its owner’s upkeep habits in order to flourish. Upon receiving a Biogarmentory item, its owner is instructed to leave the garment in direct sunlight for two hours, during which the woven cells are activated and begin photosynthesis. To wash, the user simply “submerges (the garment) in water once a week,” subsequently hanging in direct sunlight

(Aghihi, 2018). If upkeep is ignored, the garment literally begins to decompose. Aghihi argues that this brings a level of responsibility to consumers that starkly contrasts with the passivity of buying and owning a fast fashion garment. The idea is that, as maintaining the garment requires some effort, consumers will be less inclined to own a closet of hundreds of items. Further, Aghihi believes the process helps owners develop an emotional attachment to their closets (“Student Personal Accessory Award,” 2019). Biogarmentry has created several kimono-like garments composed of the photosynthesized textile, but it’ll be a second before they’re produced on a large scale and eventually hit the public market. Plus, Biogarmentry is not alone in their pursuit of live, plant-based textiles. Suzanne Lee of Modern Meadow Textiles is working on a collagen-based bioleather called Zoa, and ecotextiles company Algiknit has kelp and algae based yarns in the works. Just last spring, Stella McCartney sent models down the runway wearing garments made from spider web DNA-inspired silk; Salvatore Ferragamo sold scarves woven with orange fibers—and I don’t mean the color (Sims, 2018). If clothes composed of living, (kind of) breathing fibers sounds futuristic, delight in knowing that the future is, like, now. So, what do you say? Would you wear plants?

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REVOLUTIONARY POWER POWER STARTS IN YOUR POCKET by Lora Yordanova

The fashion industry and its fast fashion practices have grown into one of the largest global industries that not only pollutes the environment and produces waste through its production but also gives rise to the prevalence of trafficking labor, poor wages, and poor working conditions for those working voluntarily. As the main consumer base for fast fashion brands, younger generations have a lot of “pocket power” to vote for the changes they want to see with the money in their wallets. With the internet blowing the marketing and advertising world wide open, there is room for discourse among people who may

not want to accept what’s being marketed to them as their only option. The “slow fashion” trend has stitched together a powerful Instagram community that increasingly reaches and educates new people on why ethical and sustainable shopping matters and how they can be a part of the movement. According to the State of Fashion 2019 report by management and consulting firm Mckinsey and Company, consumer expectations are changing. For the first time, sustainability is on the list of important challenges in order to “satisfy consumer demands for ultra-transparency and sustainability” for many

large companies, including Zara with their recently released sustainability pledge. Transparency and sustainability practices are evolving from “a tick-box exercise” into fundamental elements of the business models of many successful brands. “Traditional brands are beginning to move in a direction of ‘self-disruption,’” according to McKinsey and Company, and are changing their business models and fabricating new brand images to suit the interests of a new generation of consumers. Younger generations increasingly believe in pinning accountability for

MODEL: KIRA ROTHBARD Jumpsuit: Cheeky Peach Belt: Free People Boots: Matisse

addressing environmental and social issues to individual companies. These young people represent “around $350 billion of spending power in the US alone” and have the power to push companies to break fast-fashion trends and revolutionize the fashion industry (McKinsey). Currently, 66 percent of millennials and Gen Z are willing to pay more for sustainable goods. 42 percent of millennials say they “want to know what goes into products and how they are made before they buy,”

compared to 37 percent of Gen Z (Komornicki, 2017). Some brands are already making sustainable changes with a “refurbishing” approach, like Eileen Fisher and Patagonia, who repair and reuse their own products. Other brands, like Express, are buying into the rental market idea. Express launched “Style Trial,” which allows consumers to rent up to three items at any given time for a monthly fee, a program similar to Rent-theRunway (McKinsey). In our increasingly

globalized world, power lies with consumers. Brands have no choice but to conform to the market that we create via purchasing decisions. We have a responsibility to use that power to design and initiate the changes we want to see. How will you dispense your pocket power next time you shop?

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GOING photography by Stephanie Lopez styling by Madeleine Howell and Grace Bedsole

Going Rogue focuses on making a move outside of your comfort zone. Don’t be afraid to break those fashion “rules”— mix prints, accessorize with gold and silver, and make your statement. 1414

MODEL: LUBEN JELEZAROV Shirt: Kempt Jacket: Vintage Pants: Model's Own Shoes: Adidas

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MODEL: COLLEEN MCCANN Dress: Cheeky Peach Boots: Free People

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BE L BBOOLDD 18

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MODEL: RAJIV JUSTE Sweater: American Eagle Bag: Louis Vuitton Pants: Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own

D RE

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P RE S X E S O T

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MODEL: KAITLYN MCCANN Dress: fab'rik Shoes: Doc Martens

EXIST

UGE UGE 22

LOUDLY

MODEL:KIRA ROTHBARD Dress: Laundry Shoes: Converse

MODEL: RAJIV JUSTE Jacket: Vintage Shirt: Kempt Pants: Model's Own Shoes: Yezzy x Adidas Scarf: Vintage

EXIST LOUDLY

ROUGE ROUGE ROUGE ROUGE

ONE OF A KIND 24 24

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MODEL:ANA BALTHAZAR Dress: Karen Walker Shoes: ZARA

MODEL:KAITLYN MCCANN Dress: fab'rik Shoes: Dries Van Noten

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MODEL: LUBEN JELEZAROV

Shirt: Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own Scarf: Urban Outfitters

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MODEL: COLLEEN MCCANN Romper: ZARA Shoes: Nike

GOING ROGUE

FROM MAXIMALISM TO MINIMALISM by Wells Maley

Imagine if every morning began with a game of dress up. Perhaps a chuckle escaped your lips, or a vivid memory of your favorite plastic kitten heels resurfaced. Recently, the rise of maximalism as an aesthetic trend mirrored these lost, youthful feelings. Fashion became “fun” again, style’s sullen slumber awakened by creative chaos. However, with statement earrings sold in Walmart, ruffled clothing in stores beyond the South, and pattern play at an all-time high, is maximalism accepted by the mass majority? The diffusion of innovation scale suggests that leveling of sales, price drops, and adoption by large groups of people indicate a decline in trend popularity. If late adopters approve of this all-caps lifestyle, laggards are soon to follow. In other words, maximalism is on the way out. Fashion innovators are looking for the next big thing, and if the pendulum of fashion still abides by the laws

of physics, it’s pointing towards minimalism. If there’s one thing technology is good for, it’s Fashion Week coverage. With the click of a button, I can count the number of threads in Chanel’s latest tweed ensemble, share a perspective with Anna Wintour, and (theoretically) pre-order items as they grace the runway. When it came time for Gucci’s RTW Spring 2020 debut, I braced myself for the usual confluence of creativity and confusion. What I wasn’t expecting, however, was to feel calm. As of late, Gucci has been associated with superfluous glam, street swagger, and even slang. So, it took patrons by surprise when Alessandro Michele’s sleek and simplistic designs came one after another in a powerful promenade...as if the straitjackets at the start of the show weren’t shocking enough. Pierpaolo Piccioli released an equally tranquil RTW Spring 2020 line for Valentino.

From Maximalism to Minimalism by Wells Maley

While each piece still overflowed with genius, Piccioli crafted garments with grisaille, “taking off in order to give life” (Foley, 2019). These sentiments were shared by Miuccia Prada, who stated that “We need to do less. There is too much fashion, too much clothes, too much of everything” in regard to her sustainable and subdued RTW Spring 2020 collection (Friedman, 2019). Unsurprisingly, trend forecasters agree with the droves of designers spearheading simplistic style. Fashion Snoops, a global creative agency, recently released four overarching themes for Spring/Summer 2020 fashion-- Genesis: promoting limitless creation, Flash: bold self-confidence, Dose: sensorial experience, and Ethos: conscious internal + external sustainability. Fashion Snoop’s predictions suggest a minimalistic way of thought going forward. While each trend influence possesses its own color

combos, materials, graphics, and message, they all hint at ingenuity... a reinvention of self, consumption, and thought. Fights for equality, policy, environmentalism, and privacy dominate news feeds. There’s no question that society needs to reboot its control center to find compassion. However, the trend towards minimalism is a hopeful sign. Maximalism satiated desires for exuberance, but minimalism promotes power-- power to be rid of self-doubt, inefficiency, and fabrication; power to influence today for a better tomorrow.

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TAKEOVER

EXPANDING HAUTE COUTURE HORIZONS by Katelyn Bass

The history books of fashion often trace the beginning of fashion globalization to the design houses of Paris. In the Western world, European fashion and beauty ideals have been continuously put on a pedestal as the height of glamour, and very few innovators have been able to infiltrate this chain of tradition. The global scope of fashion is beginning to divert from typical European standards

of beauty, and important fashion influences are shifting the game. More specifically, Japanese designers have risen as consistent shakers of Parisian fashion and global trends. The Japanese invasion of Western fashion had humble beginnings as Japan experienced an economic and industrial boom in the 1960s. The influence of increasingly sophisticated technology allowed for the spreading of global trends and the fusion of Western pop culture with Japanese consumer technology. These factors led to the emergence of a new wave of designers, innovators, and creatives (Cruz, 2004). Among these were “the Big Three” of iconic Japanese fashion

designers, who infiltrated the traditional world of Parisian fashion and changed fashion forever. Rei Kawakubo Kawakubo gained notoriety as the founder of the iconic Comme Des Garçons brand and the Dover Street Market. Her collections are especially recognized as having an absurdist industrial flair and are often driven by statement. Kawakubo is quite talented at creating u n i q u e silhouettes, which can be seen with the bump dress in 1997 that used abstract shapes to subvert typical Parisian dress conventions (NM of Scotland , 2017). Issey Miyaki Aside from designing Steve Jobs’ iconic black turtleneck, Miyaki is best known for his revolutionary combination of fashion and technological elements. His designs are notable for celebrating the movement of the human body. His work strikes the perfect balance between breathtaking garments and complex advanced construction. Yohji Yamamoto Of the three, Yamamoto stays tied most closely to his traditional Japanese roots and is highly famed for his kimono-inspired line of coats

in the 1990’s. It is apparent that many of his textile and silhouette choices are nods to Japanese culture. However, the innovation with which he combines these classics with modern elements and durable streetwear structure allows for his status as a true pioneer of Japanese fashion fusion. The mark of Japanese artistry within the fashion industry is irreversible, and rightfully so. Although Miyake, Yamamoto, and Kawakubo are some of the most noteworthy innovators, Japanese influences and designers are constantly breaking boundaries and shifting what is considered the height of fashion. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but standards of beauty have evolved across cultures on the runway. The Denver Art Museum curator, Florence Müller, describes the sheer impact of changing beauty standards on Parisian fashion: “Suddenly, on the catwalk, girls without any makeup … with hairstyles totally askance, walking with flat shoes, walking in a very natural manner without trying to seduce the public. It’s really a revolution in terms of how a woman should look” (Duray, 2016). Fashion is crucial and affects everyone in ways they may not even realize. The fashion industry depends on shakers like these Japanese designers to break from the norm and reinvent what is considered beautiful.

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FIVE FASHION RULES YOU NEED TO

BREAK by Samantha Solomon

There are few things more frustrating than being told what you can’t do and what you shouldn’t wear, yet still, our society is dominated by insignificant and outdated fashion “rules.” While no one really knows who came up with these so-called “rules” or where they originated, they are still followed as some of the guiding principles on how to dress today. These rules, although initially created to help guide women to avoid embarrassing fashion faux pas, are no longer beneficial and actually limit individuals from showcasing their individuality and personal style through fashion. So, if you were looking for a sign to break the rules, then this piece is the one for you. It’s 2019-- dress how YOU want and start by shattering these five common fashion “rules” that are just begging to be broken.

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1. Pink And Red Clash

Somehow, the pink and red color combo got a bad reputation as a huge fashion no-no, but this color pairing can actually be quite killer and complementary when done correctly. Pairing a red that is a true, bright cherry to any shade of pink is an easy way to execute the look. For an everyday look, try pairing a classic white t-shirt and denim jeans with pink and red accessories such as an ascot or fun pair of statement earrings. While pink and red can be a tricky combination to master, when done correctly it creates a loud flair and adds a pop of color to any outfit.

2. Sequins Are For Nighttime

No matter what time of day, everyone could use some sparkle in their day-today wardrobe. For a daytime look, try coupling a flirty sequined miniskirt with a casual or distressed graphic tee. This helps incorporate different textures and dresses down the sequins. Glitter sneakers are also a huge trend right now-- use them as a means of adding some sparkle to your everyday wardrobe.

3. No Print Mixing

While mixed prints can appear busy and chaotic at times, they can also completely elevate and transform a look when done properly. If you’re feeling bold, stand out completely by mixing florals with stripes, or, if you’re just trying to dip your toes in, treat cheetah as a neutral and try adding it into your printed outfits with accessories like bags, belts, or shoes.

4. Sneakers Are For Sports

Sneakers are arguably the most versatile shoe ever designed, and today they aren’t just convenient. So many brands have come out with trendy sneakers to pair with your everyday looks. From the gorgeous, glittery Golden Gooses to the everso-classic white Air Force 1’s, it seems that everyone is on board with the chic athleisure sneaker trend these days. Invest in a pair of fashionable sneakers and try pairing them with literally any outfit-- trust me: once you do, you’ll never go back.

5. No White After Labor Day

White can and should be worn year round. It makes any outfit look sharp, chic, and fresh, especially in the middle of fall and winter. White is always in season, so this is your cue- buy the white booties you’ve been eyeing since last fall, and wear your winter white peacoat or turtleneck all throughout the holiday season, making a statement in a sea of little black dresses.

MODEL: ANA BALTHAZAR Jumpsuit: Cheeky Peach Shoes: Doc Martens Bag: Louis Vuitton Scarf: VIntage

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MODEL: KIRA ROTHBARD Dress: fab'rik Shoes: Converse

RED Rouge is all about power, strength, and determination. Using our namesake red as a symbol to discuss these themes, the styling in this spread encourages us to boldly 38approach each day.

SEEING RED photography by Stephanie Lopez styling by Madeleine Howell and Grace Bedsole

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MODEL: HEATHER MCABEE

Sweater: Vintage

MODEL: CHRISTIN WALLS Dress: fab'rik Shoes: Nike

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MODEL: JOZIE DILL

Sweater: Top Shop Pants: Missguided

MODEL: JOZIE DILL

Dress: ZARA Top: Vintage Boots: Vintage

MODEL: FRANK GONZALEZ Blazer:Vintage Shoes:Gucci

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WHEN ANGER GIVES WAY TO ART:

A Brief History of Feminist Movements in Fashion 44 44

by Ellie Knight

Think back to the first time you were told to behave-- to be quieter, more amiable, more obedient. From a young age, we are all taught that good behavior merits reward and that defiance invites danger. However, I’d like to highlight a different reality, one that isn’t found in Hallmark movies portraying how we all should act. Although hopeful, heartwarming anecdotes do occasionally make the news, the pages of history are written by those who had no choice but to go rogue. The evidence of this truth is widespread, and it is absolutely undeniable in the realm of women’s fashion. In the world of art and style, Joy and Contentment have great ideas, but Anger and Passion are the ones making headlines. In the 1850s, Amelia Bloomer decided that she was tired of watching men traipse around in comfort while she struggled to move in a restricting corset and rough stockings. Her namesake, The Bloomer Dress or Freedom Dress, describes a loose tunic spilling over baggy trouser shorts and is remembered as the first feminist fashion trend (Chang, 2018). Moving forward in time, the 1920s brought about two iconic staples in women’s fashion, the “bob” haircut and Coco Chanel’s infamous skirt suit. Flapper style inundated the fashion scene and encouraged women to push the boundaries of the status quo. Long hair, the longstanding cornerstone of femininity and beauty, was traded in for a sporty new ear-length trim (Komar, 2016). As hair length rose, so did hemlines, giving designer and visionary Coco Chanel just the canvas she needed to revolutionize women’s fashion with her boxy yet flattering tweed skirt suit. Perhaps the most scandalous of introductions to the fashion scene was Louis Réard’s creation of the bikini

in 1946. This two piece swimsuit featured more skin than previously imaginable and showcased just how drastically women’s modesty had transformed in a single century. French magazine Le Figaro stated that, “For women, wearing a bikini signaled a kind of second liberation. There was really nothing sexual about this. It was instead a celebration of freedom and a return to the joys in life" (Chang, 2018). Yves Saint Laurent showed traditional fashion who really wears the pants in the relationship when he launched the women’s pantsuit in 1966. This professional set mirrored classic men’s attire and brought workplace dress to new creative heights. Unfortunately, the idea was not widely accepted for many years following its inception. It was not until 1993 that the United States declared that women were legally allowed to wear pantsuits on the Senate floor, thus leaving gender norms of the past behind (Chang, 2018). Dress up, act out, make a statement to make a change. History is filled with famous women who used fashion as activism, and there is no time like the present to continue that legacy. The future, past, and present are now, as these issues and our ability to fight them through our style choices transcend time. As feminist historian Laurel Thatcher Ulrich once said, “well-behaved women seldom make history.”

MODEL: ARIANNA MEDINA

MAKE A STATEMENT photography by Stephanie Lopez beauty by Christin Walls and Annie Molchan

Who says your clothes are the only thing that should be bold? Set the tone for Rouge Magazine through the use of pinks, purples, and the boldest color of them all: red. Live fearlessly through these fun and daring beauty looks and step outside of the box to create something bold and lively.

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MODEL: ARIANNA MEDINA

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BROWN MACK BROWN MODEL: MACK MODEL:

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MODEL: ZOE ELWOOD

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MODEL: OLIVIA GAUTHIER

FIFTEEN OF FASHIONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BIGGEST RULE 54

by Pierce Pittman

Fashion trends and societal norms have historically set the rules of what to wear and when. But what happens when a person pushes the boundaries and breaks those rules? Here are 15 of the top fashion icons that have broken those unwritten guidelines and thereafter changed the fashion world. 1. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel One of the most acclaimed designers of all time, Chanel is known for introducing the trend of menswear style for women. In a time when it was bizarre for women to wear pants, she created collections full of them. 2. Elsa Schiaparelli Schiaparelli, a prominent designer and couturier, broke rules and precedents as she pioneered some of the first collaborations between artists, such as Salvador Dali, and designers to create her surrealistic looks, a trend now common in the fashion industry. 3. Yves Saint Laurent More than just a world renowned designer, Yves Saint Laurent broke barriers as one of the youngest people to head a fashion house-- and eventually created his own. Saint Laurent is also credited as one of the first designers to send models of different races down the catwalks in Paris.

4. Rei Kawakubo The subject of the 2017 MET Gala, Rei Kawakubo is known for her avant-garde designs that explore new relationships between clothing, shape, and texture. As the Creative Director of Comme De Garcons, she has pivoted the attention of the fashion world to the continuously growing Asian market through her artistic genius and business smarts. Her brand developed locations in both Asia and Europe, and she also created Dover Street Market, a retail and concept store merging designers from across the globe into one space, blending together the styles of the east and west. 5. Cher Singer and actress Cher broke the traditional fashion norms of the time by wearing wild designs by Bob Mackie. As a red carpet renegade, she was one of the first celebrities to truly create her own personal style. 6. Diana Vreeland Before Anna Wintour’s 30+ year reign at American Vogue,

there was Diana Vreeland. She was a firm believer that “we all need a splash of bad taste” (Fisher, 2014). Due to her outlook, she often experimented with editorial content, adding a certain stylized irreverence to the industry. 7. Grace Jones In today’s world when we reflect on crazy fashion, Lady Gaga’s meat dress comes to mind. However, long before Gaga, model Grace Jones was breaking the rules as fashion knew them. One of the first people to truly create a style based on fashion as art, Jones played with hair dyes, body paints, wild accessories, and surreal textures. 8. Thierry Mugler Paris is known as the global headquarters for high fashion. However, in the late 80’s and early 90’s Thierry Mugler sent shockwaves through the city with his avant-garde designs, the likes of which had only previously been done by mostly Japanese designers and were not taken seriously by many fashion elites. His

conceptualist take on fashion that involved creating iconic silhouettes and incorporating immaculate detail into every piece marked his place in the fashion history books. 9. Dapper Dan Harlem is not where many people would think to go to find the hottest new Louis Vuitton and Gucci designs. Couturier Dapper Dan changed that narrative by using the logos of many designer brands in the 80’s and 90’s, without their consent, to create readyto-wear looks that became wildly popular within the hip-hop community. After years of legal entanglement with major brands, Dapper Dan now collaborates with those same brands and has helped create some of their most commercially successful collections. 10. John Galliano Discovered by Anna Wintour in the 90’s, Galliano is one of the most rebellious and outlandish designers to date. During his near 15 year stint at Dior, he transformed the style of the fashion house and revived the brand through his over-the-top and unconventional designs. Many people were unhappy with his designs each season, but the way he played with structure, texture, and cut created some of the most memorable couture moments in history.

11. Iris Apfel As the owner of one of the world’s largest costume jewelry collections, Iris Apfel has turned herself into a style icon. Not to be seen without her signature oversized round glasses and colorful prints, the 98 year old has cemented her legacy by showing that bold fashion choices can be made no matter your age. 12. Alexander McQueen The British “bad boy” of fashion, Alexander McQueen released some of the most creative yet controversial couture looks from the 90’s and early 2000’s. A true showman, McQueen’s runways were characterized by strong themes with social critiques, one of the most memorable being a model and dress that was spray painted by robotic arms on the runway during his spring 1999 show. His designs were known worldwide, with positive and negative reception, and were the subject of the 2011 MET Gala. 13. Alessandro Michelle After taking over the role of creative director at Gucci in 2015, Michele transformed the fashion house and has created its most commercially successful collections to date. Adopting a “more is more” philosophy, his over-the-top designs featuring wild colors

and immense amounts of embroidery and metallics have cultivated a huge interest in, and revival of, campy style. When others in the industry were providing minimalism, he took a chance on extremism. This risk resulted in wild success, and he is currently one of the most influential people in the industry.

14. Rihanna Singer, songwriter, actress, dancer, beauty guru, fashion designer, etc.; Rihanna has many titles, but one of her most prevalent currently is style icon. Through breaking the traditional fashion rules of layering, color, and seasonal style, along with her memorable personality, she has cultivated a mass pop culture following and is one of the leading fashion role models today. 15. Billy Porter The traditional view of fashion is divided between menswear and womenswear. However, over the past year, Porter has been tearing down that barrier. He made headlines when he wore a custom Christian Siriano gown to the 2019 Oscars, and he has challenged the idea that men and women can only wear certain things based on their gender rather than their personal style.

RU L E S A R E M E A N T

TO B E B R O K E N

SOURCES

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