ROUGE MAGAZINE UGE MAGAZINE VOL. I , ISSUE II VOL. I , ISSUE I S/S 2020 A/W 2019 001/183
1
2
THE SENSORY ISSUE
3
meet the team spread
4
Rouge Magazine is the first and only fashion magazine at the University of Georgia. It was originally founded in August 2007 as the Little Red Book Magazine by three students within the College of Family and Consumer Sciences who recognized a need for a fashion-oriented publication. It became an official, registered student organization in 2008. Rouge Magazine is a biannual, full color publication funded by member dues and a once-yearly allowance from the University’s College of Family and Consumer Sciences. Rouge Magazine is distributed all over Athens, from multiple locations on campus to various boutiques downtown. Each issue is designed entirely from scratch by members of the general body in conjunction with the executive board, and can best be described as the product of eager passion and a true love for the fashion industry and all associated with it. Rouge Magazine aims to create content that inspires the student body to be bold, to serve as a resource for fashion related events from a variety of perspectives, and to stitch together a publication each semester that all students can draw something from, whether that be style inspiration, knowledge of the fashion industry, or an interesting graphic design scheme.
Run with Rouge! Instagram: @rouge.mag E-mail: editors.rouge@gmail.com Web: rougemag.squarespace.com
5
CONT 10
Editor's Note: Vanessa Vassileva
12
City of Magic: Why Miami Continues to Enchant
50 56
Fashion Has No Gender: Mixing Menswear With Womenswear
6
Advice on Investing :Why Clothing is More Than Material
ENTS
16 24 36
Let's Mix Business and Pleasure: How Luxury Streetwear Challenges Tradition
Suited Up: An Evolution of the Woman's Power Look
Pastels in the Present: Miami Vice Style Makes AA Comeback
68 84
Virtue and Vice In the World of High Fashion
You're So Art Deco: Exploring Art Deco's Influence on Style, Architecture, and Social Media 7
T H E (Team)
EDITOR IN CHIEF Vanessa Vassileva
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Reilley Shamblin
DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Julia Jack
TREASURER Lori Sofian
DIGITAL CONTENT EDITOR Kate Mazza
WRITING EDITOR Sharon Autry
BLOG CONTENT EDITOR Lora Yordanova GRAPHIC DESIGN EDITOR Savannah Fordham PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Stephanie Lopez WOMENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR Madeleine Howell MENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR Grace Bedsole BEAUTY EDITOR Christin Walls ASSISTANT BEAUTY EDITOR Annie Molchan VIDEO EDITOR Alaina Booth
WEBSITE EDITOR Christine Suh
8
BEAUTY
Amanda Merritt Alyssa Dickson Ava Castro Breanna Butler Birdget Butler Emmalee Sims Erica Landry Isababel Mezzacappa Jacki Fox Jocelyn Peña Kamryn Williams Kaylee Key Kristen Haupt Lexi Del Russo Lillian Maple Lily Baldwin Meredith Boyd Michelle Morguarge Rachel Lupton Randi Cass Samantha Solomon Sarah Landmesser Tara Anastasoff Tatiana Hamade Tori Pasquale Wakefield Ausband
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Kate Laver Madhu Ravi Sarah Landmesser Shana Hall
WRITING AND JOURNALISM
FASHION
Alex Escribano Allie Erickson Alyssa Dickson Anna Blair Sarsfield Ary Brown Ava Castro Camryn Turner Colleen McCann Elaine Garvey Emma Modlinski Emmalee Sims Erica Landry Grace Auman Gracie Skinner Hayden Grant Heather McAbee Isabel Mezzacappa Jamie Goble Jocelyn Peña Kamryn Williams Katelyn Bass Katherine Crocker Katherine Rhodes Kaylee Key Kelvin Nguyen Kendal Cano Krista Shirley Kristen Haupt Lexi Del Rosso Lillian Maple Lily baldwin Luben Jelezarov Megan Headley Meredith Boyd Miya Grant Morgan Quinn Rachael Lupton Randi Cass Sam Genzale Samantha Solomon Sarah Edmonds Sarah Landmesser Tatiana Hamade Wakefield Ausband Wells Maley
Amanda Merritt Ary Brown Blake Beeker Elaine Garvey Ellie Knight Grace Auman Gracie Skinner Heather McAbee Kamryn Williams Katelyn Bass Katherine Rhodes Mary Sinsheimer Michelle Morguarge Morgan Quinn Olivia Wakim PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO Rachel Allen Sam Genzale Samantha Isabel Mezzacappa Farah Hammady Solomon Tara Anastasoff Wells Maley Jocelyn Peña Tara Anastasoff
DIGITAL CONTENT
Alex Escribano Allie Erickson Ary Brown Brenna Butler Bridget Helms Caitlin New Emma Gustafsson Grey Emory Jackie Fox Jamie Goble Kayleigh Bowman Krista Shirley Kristen Haupt Lexi Del Rosso Lillian Maple Michelle Morguarge Rachael Lupton Randi Cass
MARKETING
Alyssa Dickson Anna Blair Sarsfield Caitlin New Chloe Carmichael Emma Gustafsson Emma Holmes Erica Landry Gracie Skinner Grey Emory Jackie Fox Kayleigh Bowman Kelvin Nguyen Lauren Pittard Lexi Del Russo Lillian Maple Lily Baldwin Meredith Boyd Miya Grant Randi Cass Raye Merlin Samantha Solomon Sarah Edmond Tara Anstasoff Tatiana Hamade
9
Editor’s NOTE V A N E S S A
10
V A S S I L E V A
ubbed the sensory issue, this title is the most fitting to account for both the content featured in this issue as well as for the times we find ourselves in today. The beginning of the semester quietly set in and edged along amidst the flurry that is magazine preparation, planning, and execution. All content was gathered, shot, and edited by the executive board and general body members before spring break began. As we realized that our spring break would taper off into summer vacation from the safety of our homes, we rerouted our plans for the end of the semester and coordinated all work to be done remotely. This issue, as always, is the culmination of a semester of months worth of effort, but now more than ever is a representation of the dedicated nature of the people who are involved with this publication. The names of our major spreads this semester are “Avec Couleur,” “Sans Couleur,” and “Noise Complaint.” All are united by the direct link to two of the five senses, therefore pointing to the inspiration behind this issue’s overarching title. Featured articles take inspiration from places and time periods that all encourage visual expressiveness and a loud character, furthering the concept of this issue. Our decision to continue and provide resources in order to disseminate this issue was rooted in the same stuff of this issue: now more than ever, art is sought after. To provide comfort, appeal to the senses, visually stimulate, encourage dreams, and offer escape. Art imitates life and vice versa. We hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed creating it— xx, Vanessa Vassileva
11
12
M I A Y H W Y MIAMI CONT I CO N T WH Y MIAM WH L CANO KENMI CONT KENDA
D A L C AN O
KENDA
E O N T C S H E U TIN S TO ENC ANT H E U N TI S TO ENCHANT TINUE AL CANO KEN ANT
D N E K O AL C A N
DAL C A
NO
13
MODEL: CHRISTINA THOMAS Dress: ZARA
A
lthough Miami is called the city of magic, it might as well be known as the sin city of the East coast. As a place renowned for its nightlife, Miami’s aura of decadence and hedonistic glam bleeds from some of the world’s most famous clubs to the streets and closets of everyday citizens. However, this
14
den of legendary nightlife wouldn’t can put care into your appearance have been possible without the in an artful way and still embrace melting pot of cultures that make masculinity. up the city. Miami defined itself as a city of Miami is home to a massive escapism, but without the strife of population of Latin Caribbean and its inhabitants none of that escape Latin American cultures. It’s also would be possible. The resilience home to a thriving art scene and of immigrants who yearned for a hosts Art Basel, one of the hottest better life without forfeiting their art fairs in the world. Every May, own values and culture is integral this diverse cultural and artistic to the heart of this city (Miller, milieu provides the backdrop for 2020). Cubans escaping Castro’s Miami’s own annual fashion week. communist Cuba recreated home. Haitians wanting to simply live a The culture of immigrants also good life fled the political upheaval has created a fashion scene in their country. Thousands of notorious for its flamboyance immigrants abandoned their and fearlessness. In the Miami of homes to seek the American Dream the 80s, men wore pastels while of prosperity and happiness. To women sported enormous hair and them we owe an influential culture dripped in rhinestones. Crime show that turned an inconsequential Miami Vice brought this rarely beach town into a haven of life seen and lesser known aesthetic fully lived. The takeaway is to be to the living rooms of Americans unapologetically authentic. As a everywhere. People saw Detective second-generation child of Miami Sonny Crockett eschewing belts, immigrants, this authenticity is socks, and a clean shave, in favor of something I strive for daily; it is beach bum pastel shirts and white, something you should all--through unstructured linen suits. His fellow your fashion, actions, and values-detective Rico Tubbs wore carefully strive for as well. curated patterns with ties or gold necklaces (Barker, 2020). These characters showed men that you
"f lamboyance and fearlessness"
15
LET’S MIX BUSINESS AND (how luxury tradition) PLEASURE M
LILLY MAP APLE LE M LIL Y L L LY I L
L AP
EL Y ILL
M AP L E L
16
Street wear is an ever-evolving
style of clothing that varies from the extravagant and eye-catching to the understated and effortless. Cultural influence on street wear trends is nothing new, but as the market for young millennial influencers grows, so does the mass appeal of casual luxury. Today, brands such as Off-White and Vetements have placed wearable pieces like t-shirts and sweatshirts in the closets of elite celebrities and influencers, as well as savvy young
90s. Stussy began as an alternative brand that spoke to the growing Los Angeles culture of surfers and skateboarders and remained accessible with its branding and retail style. The brand even designed their shops with open areas in the center to allow customers to skate while shopping (Sengvanahn, 2019). Later, brands such as Supreme popularized this subculture of casual clothing that reflected the laid back culture of Los Angeles surfers and, eventually, the growing hip-hop scene in New York City. Supreme began a cycle of
streetwear challenges millennials. Influences from popular culture such as the television show Miami Vice and the fashion-forward wardrobe of contemporary fashion icons have popularized this new style of effortless luxury. As a result of more experimental trendsetting in the 80s and 90s, styles such as the logo emblazoned t-shirt, casual blazer, and statement sneakers are now staples in the closets of many fashion lovers. The underground streetwear label, Stussy, is credited with popularizing streetwear beginning in the 80s and
creating high demand with regular drops of new items, perpetuated by limited supply and steep pricing (Block, 2017). These items soon became a staple in many wealthy millennials' wardrobes, and the seemingly exclusive brand grew to be synonymous with status and style. As these alternative brands grew in popularity in the 80s and 90s, so did the cultural significance of television shows such as Miami Vice, which features a blend of casual and luxury that was later seen on style icons like Kate Moss and Madonna. Pieces
17
MODEL: NOYA ITEGHIE Dress: Mara Hoffman via Rent the Runway Shoes: Justfab Bag: Spartina Sunglasses: QUAY
18
"eyeg n i h c t a c eff ortle that fell somewhere between menswear, menswear, womenswear, and streetwear began to appear on television and runways alike. From fashion moments such as as Madonna’ Madonna’s boho-inspired blazer ensemble at her Live Aid Performance to Miami Vice’’s blazer and t-shirt combinations, modern streetwear Vice
g to
styles have evolved to represent the tastes of a culture that’ that’s comfortable with casual but still interested in status. Casual blazer ensembles are now regularly incorporated into the wardrobes of style influencers and can be seen on the likes of Alexa Chung and Rihanna (Billboard, 2015). This trend has become increasingly popular with combinations of wearable styles like t-shirts and sneakers making appearances in the inventory of more classic luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci (Hoffower, 2019). In more recent years, there has been an explosion in popularity of this crossover between luxury and comfort resulting in contemporary labels like Off-White, Vetements, and even Kanye West’ West’s Yeezy label making repeat appearances at New York Fashion week (Friedman, 2020).
ess"
began, the lines between menswear and streetwear have blurred. Today, updated combinations of suits and blazers are spotted on countless celebrities, even making appearances on streetwear icons like Alexa Chung and Gigi Hadid who show that traditionally formal pieces can be effortlessly combined with t-shirts, jeans, and slip dresses (Harper’’s Bazaar, 2020; Petter, 2017). (Harper
Since the experimental style of blending more formal menswear with casual clothing
19
20
U L
E 21
22 MODEL: CHERRY GONG Blouse: fab'rik Shorts: Vintage Shoes: Model's Own
23
MODEL: WELLS MALEY Set: Girlfriend Collective Blazer: Vintage
AN
EVOLUTION
OF THE
WOMAN’S
POWER
LOOK
24
by Morgan Quinn
T
On Previous Spread: Shoes: NIKE
he tailored suit is a classic wardrobe staple, but it hasn’t always been a go-to for both men and women. Women’s suits have attracted more controversy than praise over the years. From Coco Chanel’s first female suit to Giorgio Armani’s broad shouldered design, the silhouette has seen major changes. With the suit’s evolution has come an evolution of what it means to be a liberated woman in fashion. Coco Chanel is credited with the first female two-piece suit in the 1920s. Drawing inspiration from men’s sportswear and appealing to first-wave feminists, she wanted to push gender boundaries. In addition to her masculine inspiration, this designer’s use of tweed, a not-sofeminine fabric, also caused heads to turn in the fashion world. Other couturiers drew inspiration from her unconventional crafting choices, leading to the popularization of the Chanel suit.
After Chanel paved the way for female androgynous dressing, Yves Saint Laurent made more great strides. With his introduction of “Le Smoking,” Saint Laurent was the “first fashion couturier to present the suit as a form of women’s evening wear in the 1960s” (Bannerman, 2018). His design consisted of a tailored black tuxedo worn with a ruffled white shirt and matching trousers. Fashion critics were divided by their opinions of trousers for women’s evening wear, contributing to women often being criticized for donning them. Nan Kempner, a fashionable socialite in the 60s, famously ditched her trousers and wore her suit jacket as a mini dress after being turned away from an elite New York restaurant. Through moody Vogue editorials and celebrities’ stylish adoptions of Saint Laurent’s look, “Le Smoking” encapsulated everything modern women wanted: confidence, power, maturity, class, and timeless style.
25
The 1970s saw a trend of working women wearing tailored suits and platform shoes as their daily uniform. Although unisex clothing had gained more public support, women still received criticism from many for challenging gender norms. Giorgio Armani’s take on the classic suit challenged norms even further by hiding the feminine physique with broad shoulder pads and oversized silhouettes. The 1980s became known as the decade of the power suit, with more women taking focus off their gender and embracing androgyny in the workplace. Designers’ ideas of empowerment shifted in the 1990s as women no longer needed to fit into the male mold to be taken seriously. Their preferences moved to softer, more romantic, traditionally feminine looks. Even Armani noted, “today, [women] don’t have to wear a suit jacket to prove their authority” (Komar, 2016). Although the power suit may have retired by the 2010s, women today enjoy wearing something even more powerful: whatever they want.
26
"Women today enjoy wearing something even more powerful: whatever they want."
27
28
MODEL: KELVIN NGUYEN Button-Up: Vintage Shorts: Model's Own Shoes: NIKE MODEL: DAYQUAN LARCHER Jacket: ELLIAT via Rent the Runway Trousers: Model's Own Ascot: Vintage
29
u co
co
30
e d up
ec
u o rc p d
u
e l
pd
co eu r
cou
e
ul
le
cou r u
31
32
MODEL: NOYA ITEGHIE Dress: Mara Hoffman via Rent the Runway Shoes: NIKE MODEL: ALEXES GILLESPIE Top: Tibi via Rent the Runway Skirt: Cheeky Peach Shoes: NIKE
33
ROUG ROUG ROUG ROUG ROUG 34
MODEL: CHERRY GONG Blouse: fab'rik
GE GE GE GE GE
35
PASTELS IN THE PRESENT:
MIAMI VICE STYLE MAKES A COMEBACK by Samantha Solomon
36
A
As a fellow Generation Z-er who did not get the pleasure of growing up in the pastelsoaked, Miami Vice era, I am fully on board for its cotton candy colored, twenty-first century comeback. While it may not come as a complete shock that pastels are in this spring-- especially on the tail of a summer drenched with bright, neon hues-- a number of designers from couture to ready-to-wear have revived the popular Miami Vice color palette and brought back non-traditional blazer pairings in their latest Spring/Summer 2020 shows. The Miami Vice trend shone through in the many pastel hues that showed up on this spring’s couture runways. For instance, Givenchy debuted a number of bright white and candy colored looks, including a ruffled baby blue stunner, the lavender gown of my dreams, and a light peach monochromatic look that I would sell my entire wardrobe to get to wear (Phelps, 2018). (Seriously, the whole collection was absolutely stunning-- just do yourself a favor and check it out). Furthermore, Elie Saab emphasized pastels in his couture show by showcasing a variety of mint green, baby blue, and light pink dresses, further intensifying the rebirth of the Miami Vice colorway this spring (Cardini, 2019).
37
R
THE
GHT
VICE S I M TY IA M CASUAL,
MODEL: DAYQUAN LARCHER Jacket: ELLIAT via Rent the Runway Pants: Model's Own Ascot: Vintage Shoes: NIKE
A I R P ING L O S CO H
ES
AS B R
38
IR
O F E
OU
LE
N I K C BA L L A
L
LORY G S T I Not only was this trend apparent in the season’s couture shows, but it was just as prevalent, if not more so, in many of this spring’s ready-to-wear shows. Not only did these shows consistently use a range of pastel tones, but some designers even presented their own take on the iconic Miami Vice look: the leisure suit. In Tibi’s SS20 show, models sported various pastel hued looks, featuring a range of colors from mint green to creamsicle orange. However, the show also showcased numerous models, in womenswear and menswear both, strutting down the catwalk in different colored blazers (Farra, 2019). Some had dramatized shoulders, a twenty-first century take on the iconic shoulder pads of the 1980s, and most were paired with a plain tee underneath; an easily recognizable Miami Vice signature style moment. Similarly, Jonathan Simkhai’s SS20 RTW show seemingly highlighted his take on the trend by featuring a primarily pastel color palette with a few added blazers to top off his looks (Borrelli-Persson, 2019). Nina
Ricci also featured three ruffled, strapless dresses in her SS20 show, all in their own pastel hues: the first in a light bright pink, the next in a sky blue, and the final in a muted, sunshine yellow. While the premier episode of Miami Vice aired over 35 years ago, it’s more than evident that its iconic fashion looks have yet to fade from our minds, and the SS20 shows proved just that. The elevated casual, cool style popularized by the iconic TV series resonates well with today’s consumers, which is unsurprising considering the recent rise and popularity of athleisure and streetwear. Today, people crave elevated casual looks that compliment their busy, on-the-go lifestyles while still making them feel stylish and put together. This desire for casual, cool pairings has brought the Miami Vice style back in all its glory, giving people a chance to create outfits that, not only, embrace the comfort of a T-shirt, but also exude the color and retro style of the eighties.
39
looking into
40
a sea of color.
41
N E O N
42
MODEL: KELVIN NGUYEN Pants: Model's Own Shirt: Vintage Shoes: NIKE
A U R A
43
living
life in full color living life in full color living life in full color
44
45
MODEL: CHERRY GONG Dress: Theirry Mulger via Rent the Runway Shoes: Model's Own
small shoot cover
46
photography by Stephanie Lopez, Farah Hammady, & Isabel Mezzacappa
47
48
49
MODEL: ALEX DIANAT Top: Vintage Pants: Model's Own Ascott: Vintage Shoes: Converse
NDER
MIXING MENSWEAR AND WOMENSWEAR BY TARA ANASTASOFF
NO GE
50 50
ONHAS
FAS H I
The trend towards androgynous fashions continues to garner onlookers’ attention on both the catwalk and the sidewalk. From high fashion couture to niche streetwear attire, the lines for what differentiates womenswear from menswear are continuing to blur. While women’s pantsuits and suit jackets often have more fitted silhouettes than men’s, there is an effortless beauty to an oversized suit jacket. In fact, it almost feels like this oversized, unisex style of dressing has become the new “cool-girl” look. XXL band t-shirts are paired with golferesque tailored pants and chunky white sneakers— a look that could easily be worn by both stylish men and women. While runway moguls often highlight androgynous fashion by styling female models with neutral-colored, masculine lapel jackets and matching pants, other designers instead choose to incorporate elements of femininity into otherwise masculine pieces. For example, Alexander McQueen’s SS14 show featured a male model wearing a suit adorned head-to-toe with burnt orange and muted blue flowers and leaves (Blanks, 2013). This feminine, floral twist on such a structured suit produced an awe-inspiring design that left fashion followers feeling refreshed and excited.
structure— like utility pants and track pants— also provide inspiration. Comfortable utility pants and athleticstyle track pants have seemingly replaced skin-tight jeans. Women are no longer sacrificing comfort for style— the trend towards androgynous fashions is making it more accessible for women to select jeans and pants that have a looser fit, such as boyfriend fit and mom-style jeans. Even outside of silhouettes, patterns that first appeared on men’s clothing, such as flannel shirts, have made appearances on skirts and dresses. A lumberjackstyle flannel jacket and plaid skirt are both essential pieces in many women’s capsule wardrobes— but these items of clothing wouldn’t have been possible without male influence on female fashion.
Traditionally male and female fashions continue to bleed together, with designers taking inspiration from silhouettes and patterns and transforming them into styles that are wearable for any gender. Unisex pieces in the fashion industry are gaining traction, young women no longer solely shop in the women’s department anymore, and men are wearing more delicately-patterned clothing and layered necklaces. Gender norms have been shattered— On the other hand, womenswear has and fashion acts as the driving force for taken fashion inspiration from more this escape to a world that creatively than just the structured silhouettes blends womenswear and menswear of menswear. Interestingly enough, design. the elements of menswear that lack
51 51
52
53 53
MODEL: LAUREN JENNINGS Dress: Made by Madeleine Howell Belt: Target Shoes: Dr. Martens
FILL THE EMPTY SPACE.
54
55
56 56
AA DD VV II CC EE
MODEL: LAUREN JENNINGS Dress: Urban Outfitters Corset: Vintage Shoes: Stuart Weitzman
On Investing: Why Clothing is More Than Material by Gianna Rodriguez
Do your research! Not many things can top the feeling of purchasing the perfect clothing item, whether it is a glen plaid blazer or a pair of highwaisted straight jeans. Before going out and purchasing, look online and compare what different stores have to offer. When people see an item “close to” what they’ve been wanting
E
T
OTHING IS M O CL R
3 Ways to Ensure You Are Properly Investing
but for much cheaper, they often hurry to buy. However, this could be a misstep. Though the initial goal of purchasing that cheaper pair of jeans was to save money, you might end up spending even more money as you buy pair after pair in an attempt to find the “cheap” version of what you originally wanted. It is always worth the time and often worth the price once you find the one piece that speaks to you!
Try to imagine yourself wearing the item through future trends. Though animal prints and textures have been a trend for about a year now, the last time they were popular was during the early 2000s, better-known as the young Kim Kardashian years. You want to make sure you are able to wear an item you’ve invested in for years to come! “If an item is part of a longer narrative it can also be assured to remain special” (Syfret 2016). It can be a good idea to maybe invest only in those staple items, such as a good pair of medium-wash jeans that keep their shape, or a chic yet comfortable pair of baby pink heels. Invest in items that can pull your whole outfit together!
57 57
Y
For those who keep shopping for clothing close to their hearts, it is often hard to splurge on the right items. If clothing is an important aspect in your life, investing in a few quality pieces may be a worthwhile change to the way you build your wardrobe. There is no better feeling than owning something that is high quality and makes you feel you!
NM A H
ATERIA
L
A
Clothing is more than just a materialistic necessity: it is a conversation starter, show of personality, carrier of emotional attachments, and, most importantly, a way for people to express themselves.
Use these few investments to mix and match; introduce new ideas to your wardrobe. A lot of people have a hard time steering away from their usual apparel purchases. Stepping out of your comfort zone and finding a high-quality piece can force you to pair it with items already in your wardrobe. Investments like this can help you recreate looks with your current wardrobe that you might be getting tired of. In this case, “instead of justifying the need to go out and buy an array of cheap tops and bottoms, you’ll be more inclined to work with what you have” (Kayla Sloan 2020). In the end, buying clothing as an investment will ultimately save money and break the toxic cycle of the repetitive purchasing of the same pieces.
58 58
59 59
60
61
MODEL: ALEX DIANAT Top: Vintage Pants: Model's Own Shoes: Converse
62
MODEL: LAUREN JENNINGS Blazer: Vintage Shorts: Vintage Shoes: NIKE
63
now is
64
a good time.
65 65
66
67
MODEL: ALEX DIANAT Top: Raf Simons Chain: Model's Own
IN THE WORLD OF HIGH FASHION by Julia Jack 68 68
The conflict between good and evil forces is a narrative that has held a persistent presence in human history, frequently interpreted in terms of morality, or lack thereof. Specifically, the robust opposition between virtue and vice rivals even that of Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli in Paris circa 1930. Virtues are typically perceived as those positive and honorable qualities that we respect in ourselves and others, whereas vices are the absence of these qualities. So how do virtue and vice play a role in the scope of fashion of the Twenty-first Century? Enter Rent the Runway.
yet Rent the Runway seemingly encourages extravagance and abundance in a woman’s relationship with her wardrobe through designer clothing rentals. The premise of this principle is that it ultimately leads to empowerment when women choose to own themselves over owning material things. Through its platform, Rent the Runway advocates for a woman’s agency to play with prints, experiment with embellishments, and indulge in lush couture for less. While gluttony and pride may be generally viewed as vices, in the context of female empowerment in the fashion world, Rent the Runway transforms this alleged immorality Founded in 2009 by Jennifer Hyman into merit. and Jenny Fleiss, the company’s original mission was to enable Additionally, Rent the Runway’s women to rent, rather than buy, a steadfast commitment to the designer dress for formal events. environment is a notable virtue, While the company’s scope has especially in the contemporary era evolved to include a variety of other of fast fashion. This deviation from chic clothing categories today, Rent the mainstream is vital, given the fact the Runway continually strives to that the retail industry is the second empower women to get dressed largest polluter in the world and, smarter, every day and for all “the average woman throws away occasions, by giving them access to a about 82 pounds of clothing per “closet in a cloud” (Rent the Runway, year” (Rent the Runway, n.d.). Rent n.d.). the Runway promotes sustainability through its diverse selection of The doctrine of mankind conditions designer rentals, allowing customers us to believe that gluttony is a sin, to achieve endless creative self 69 69
expression that is not at the expense of the environment. The company has also taken steps to implement internal measures that reflect this virtue, adopting reusable garment shipping bags and recyclable clothing covers. By initiating a cycle of rent, reduce, reuse, Rent the Runway is a clear proponent for honorable planetary politics.
70
In essence, the contradictory nature of virtue and vice need not be so black and white. Rather, the two forces operate best in a complementary state, coexisting in harmony. Through Rent the Runway, it’s possible to invest in clothes to feel good internally while simultaneously doing good for the planet, achieving the natural inclination to satisfy both virtue and vice alike. So, what are you waiting for?
Want to experience the magic for yourself?
Visit www.renttherunway.com and use code RTRUGEORGIA25 to get 25% off your next rental!
71
72
beauty by Christin Walls and Annie Molchan 73
74
MODEL: KRISTEN HAUPT
75
DOSE OF
IRIDESCENCE
MODEL: NINA DICKERSON
76
SUNSET
SATURATION
77
78 MODEL: CHLOE CARMICHAEL
79
MODEL: NILE ZIEGLER
80
81
82 MODEL: ANSHU GARG
83
YOU’RE SO
E X PLOR I NG A RT DECO ’ S I N F LU E NCE ON ST
STYL
84
ART DECO
T Y L E , A RCH I T ECT U R E , A N D SO CI A L M E DI A by Tara Anastasoff
LE, SOCIAL
MEDIA 85
D
In the early 1900s, the Arts Decoratifs— more simply known as the Art Deco— movement brought with it a range of beautiful, pastel colors and lightcatching, shiny metals. Baby blues and powder pinks were unexpectedly combined with bright lime greens and electric oranges. The color wheel’s comfortable complementary and secondary colors were no more; the 1900s were a time for careful curation to fit the Art Deco movement (“Art Deco,” 2020). In Miami Beach’s Art Deco District, retro, dreamily colored buildings line the streets alongside blue skies and palm trees. This curated color palette turned a plot of land that was originally purchased for a mere 75 cents into a
86
glamorous, multi-million dollar real estate project. The Art Deco movement reshaped modern architecture— “eyebrow” windows were placed symmetrically on buildings that were no taller than three stories (“Historic District.,” 2020). In order for a theme to emerge, attention had to be paid to details. As seen on the set of Miami Vice, these Easter-egg colors created a certain luxury feeling that became a nationwide phenomenon. Men and women alike rushed to boutiques in search of white suit jackets and peach-colored t-shirts. The coveted “Miami Vice style” was about taking a chance with color. This preppy-turned-casual look is still seen today, and pastels continue to make their mark as a staple in the
fashion industry. Outside of just what a person chooses to wear, social media has also reshaped how a person creates their image. It’s no surprise that elements of Art Deco have bled into the online realm as well. Tumblr emerged as the birthplace for online themes to unfold when it reached peak popularity in 2013. Hundreds of blogs reposted photos of pretty girls with pastel accessories, colorful Parisian buildings, and faded paint swatches. At a quick glance, the blog just feels “aesthetic,� but upon further review, Art Deco influences can be seen through the muted color palettes and fixation on the simple, but beautiful, architecture.
Outside of Tumblr, these themes have bled into Instagram as well. Users meticulously curate their feeds to fit a certain vibe; almost curating their life to bridge the gap between an online presence and one in real life. Through photos of their outfits, friends, and excursions, the user creates a theme the same way Art Deco was created: with extraordinary care and attention to detail. The Art Deco movement that started in France in the early 1900s has turned into more than just a palette of whimsical and bold colors mixed with strong lines and shapes; it has evolved into an obsession with a certain theme or aesthetic that can only be achieved through a creative and meticulous eye.
87
SOURCES
City of Magic: Why Miami Continues to Enchant Miller, M. (2020). The History of Miami Florida. History one: Florida Backroads Travel. Retrieved from: https:// www.florida-backroads-travel.com/history-of-miami-florida.html Barker, C. (2020). The Miami Vice Effect. The Rake. Retrieved from: https://therake.com/stories/icons/the-miami- vice-effect/ Let’s Mix Business and Pleasure: How Luxury Streetwear Challenges Tradition Billboard Staff. (2015, July 21). Madonna’s Most Iconic Looks Throughout the Years. Billboard. Retrieved from: https://www.billboard.com/photos/428558/madonnas-most-iconic-looks-through-out-the-years Block, E. (2017, October 27). The History of Streetwear: From Stussy to Vetements. Who What Wear. Retrieved from: https://www.whowhatwear.com/streetwear Friedman, V. (2020, March 3). Kanye West Returns to Paris Fashion Week. New York Times. Retrieved from: https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/03/style/kanye-west-yeezy-paris-fashion-week. html Harper’s Bazaar Staff. (2020, February 18). Gigi Hadid’s Bombshell Style. Harper’s Bazaar. Retrieved from: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/street-style/g5973/gigi-hadid-style/?slide=2 Hoffower, H. (2019, June 27). High-end streetwear is the latest status symbol, and it shows just how powerful rich millennials are in the luxury industry. Business Insider. Retrieved from: https://www. businessinsider.com/luxury-streetwear-millennials-status-symbol-2019-6 Petter, O. (2017, March 2). Alexa Chung’s Street Style Moments. Vogue. Retrieved from: https://www. vogue.co.uk/gallery/alexa-chung-street-style Sengvanahn, H. (2019, May 16). The History of Streetwear and its Growing Impact on Fashion. Micro Macro Magazine. Retrieved from: https://www.micromacromag.com/fashionblog/2019/5/16/the- history-of-streetwear-and-its-growing-impact-on-fashion Suited Up: An Evolution of the Woman’s Power Look Bannerman, Sarah Leigh. (2018, August 6). How Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking Defined an Era of Change in Fashion. Retrieved from: https://theculturetrip.com/europe/france/paris/articles/yves- saint-laurent-le-smoking-tuxedo-suit/ Komar, Marlen. (2016, April 14). The Evolution Of The Female Power Suit & What It Means. Retrieved from: https://www.bustle.com/articles/152069-the-evolution-of-the-female-power-suit-what-itmeans-photos Pastel in the Present: Miami Vice Style Makes A Comeback Borrelli-Persson, L. (2019, September 9). Jonathan Simkhai Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear. Vogue. Retrieved from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/jonathan-simkhai Cardini, T. (2019, January 23). Elie Saab Spring 2019 Couture Collection. Vogue. Retrieved from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-couture/elie-saab Farra, E. (2019, September 8). Tibi Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear. Vogue. Retrieved from: https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/tibi Phelps, N. (2018, September 30). Givenchy Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear. Vogue. Retrieved from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/givenchy Phelps, N. (2019, September 27). Nina Ricci Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear. Vogue. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/nina-ricci
88
Fashion Has No Gender: Mixing Menswear With Womenswear Blanks, T. (2013, September 30). Alexander McQueen Spring 2014 Ready-To-Wear. Vogue. Retrieved from: https:// www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen Tiffany. (2019, December 13). Androgyny and the Disruption of Gender Norms in Current Fashion Culture. Medium. Retrieved from: https://medium.com/gbc-college-english-lemonade/androgyny-and-the-disruption-of- gender-norms-in-current-fashion-culture-d9e55fb395b7 Advice on Investing: Why Clothing is Worth More Than Material Sloan, K. (2020). Why You Should Start Spending More Money On Clothes. Retrieved from: https:// thehub.santanderbank.com/start-spending-money-clothes/ Syfret, W. (2016 March 10). How to Buy Clothes That Are Actually Investments. Retrieved from: https://i-d.vice.com/en_au/article/ywv38x/how-to-buy-clothes-that-are-actually-investments Virtue and Vice in the World of High Fashion Rent the Runway. (n.d.). Our Vision. Retrieved March 20, 2020 from https://www.renttherunway.com/about-us?action_type=footer_link Rent the Runway. (n.d.). Sustainability. Retrieved March 20, 2020 from https://www.renttherunway.com/sustainable-fashion?action_type=footer_link You’re So Art Deco: Exploring Art Deco’s Influence on Style, Architecture, and Social Media Encyclopedia Britannica Editors. (2020). Art Deco. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved from: https://www. britannica.com/art/Art-Deco Greater Miami Convention and Visitors Bureau. (2020). An Introduction to the Art Deco Historic District on Miami Beach. Miami Beaches. Retrieved from: https://www.miamiandbeaches.com/things-to-do/history-and-heritage/ art-deco-historic-district
89
90