Guy Harvey Magazine — Summer 2011

THE STATE OF SUSTAINABLE The Art of Ocean Conservation VOLUME 2, ISSUE 5 SUMMER 2011 $6.95

SEAFOOD EDITION

Google Your Fish GulfWild unveils high-tech fish tracker

Bright Spots in Our Seas 10 fish species that have come back strong

DOMESTIC vs. IMPORT Do you know where your dinner was born?

SUSTAINABLE RECIPES FROM SIX TOP CHEFS

coNteNts

SUMMER 2011

BRIGHT SPOTS IN OUR SEAS

28

\\ speciaL seafood editioN

22 fishiN’ with the commish’ GHM shares a boat with Commissioner Adam H. Putnam,

38 this is your future

Most people equate aquaculture—AKA fish farming—with

head of Florida’s Department of Agriculture, to look for big

catfish and tilapia. However, new technologies are making it

bull reds and talk seafood in the Sunshine State.

possible to farm game fish, such as pompano and cobia, in

by GHM STAFF

sustainable ways.

by DARYL CARSON

28 bright spots iN our seas 46 state of seafood

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Read about 10 vital marine species that have rebounded,

The Gulf is showing signs of amazing resilience after last

illustrating that conservation methods really can work to

year’s Deepwater Horizon oil spill. Will things change as

create healthy fisheries.

researchers probe the deeper waters of the northern Gulf?

by KEVIN PALMER

by FRED GARTH

www.guyharveymagazine.com

SPECIAL EDITION: RECIPE SECTION

68

\\ sPecial seafooD eDition

50 tracKinG silVer KinGs

68 Pure insPiration

Tarpon excite equal measures of passion among anglers and

Top chefs, all committed to using and promoting sustainable

mystery among researchers. Now, some of the questions are

seafood, reveal some of their favorite recipes for oysters,

being answered, and fishermen are helping to fill in the blanks.

wild Gulf shrimp, wahoo, and more. Read. Eat. Repeat.

by CAPTAIN DAVE LEAR

by GHM STAFF

56 seafooD WitH certainty 76 secrets of A proactive group of commercial and recreational fishermen are using high-tech tracking methods to ensure the future health of the Gulf and guarantee consumers their seafood is legit. If you let them, they can even prove it.

sustainability Defining sustainability in the real world is more complex than it seems. Our veteran fishing and conservation expert tackles the tough issues behind the term.

by MARK THIEN

by CAPTAIN DAVE LEAR

64 DoMestic Vs. iMPort

Almost 90 percent of the seafood eaten in America is imported from somewhere else. Here’s the case for reversing the trend.

by DARYL CARSON

Departments

10

guy talk Conservation in the Gulf

16

guy’S univerSe Fish, Paddle, Watch

80

laSt CaSt Sustaining Human Life

Guy lays out key conservation issues

Fish with Guy and the gang in Bimini, meet

Editor Fred Garth asks the proverbial

being tackled by the Guy Harvey Ocean

Emma the tiger shark, tag your car with

question—do we sustain fishing or does

Foundation, and details the critical need

Guy’s art and get clued into circle hooks,

it sustain us?

for sustainable seafood practices in the

all in one place.

Gulf of Mexico. www.guyharveymagazine.com

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Contributor’s profile

CreDits tO:

CAPtAiN DAVe leAr Dave Lear is an award-winning writer who has been covering sport-fishing and fisheries conservation issues for more than two decades. He started his career as editor of Marlin magazine before diving head-first into conservation issues, first as communications director for the Florida Conservation Association and then as executive director of The Billfish Foundation. He is also a member of the exclusive Royal Billfish Slam Club, recognized by the International Game Fish Association for having caught all species of billfish. Lear was a key player during Florida’s Net Ban amendment drive and later ran the campaign to unify freshwater and marine fisheries management. That successful effort led to the creation of the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission. With this background, Lear was the logical choice to help

Captain Dave Lear

explain the complexities surrounding sustainable seafood (“Secrets of Sustainability,” page 76) with the perspective of both a consumer and a veteran sportsman. When he’s not on a writing assignment, Lear can be found on the poling platform of his custom skiff, guiding light-tackle and fly anglers to tarpon, redfish, and cobia along the pristine waters of Florida’s Forgotten Coast.

KeViN PAlMer

Kevin Palmer

Kevin Palmer is a photojournalist who has spent most of his life on, in, or under the water in one place or another. Before the age of 10, his mask was often face down in the waters off Nova Scotia, Martha’s Vineyard, and the Florida Keys. Learning to scuba dive in Key West in 1973 was an introduction to what seemed like a marine world of unlimited abundance. That naiveté was not uncommon at the time, but decades of travel and diving have brought an awareness of both the best and worst of marine environments. He has witnessed plenty of declines over 40 years of marine activities, but says recently, the more heartening news is the gradual trickle of regional turnarounds, scientific progress, and increasing environmental awareness, which he details in “Bright Spots in Our Seas” on page 28. “I was really interested in tackling this article,” says Palmer. “Getting into the science of species recovery and sustainability was a real eye opener and, frankly, increases my expectations of what can be achieved if we continue to put the ocean first and short-term gratification second.” Kevin lives with his wife, photographer Tanya Burnett, and their dog, Calypso, in West Palm Beach, Florida.

This special “Sustainable Seafood Edition” is sponsored

Publisher Lost Key Publishing editor-in-Chief Fred D. Garth editor Daryl Carson Marketing Director John Guidroz Circulation Director Kat Dean Director of sales and Marketing Ashley Bringman Outside sales representative Dan Wilson layout and Design Emagination Unlimited | Jenny Lee internet Gurus Zeekee Interactive Copy editor Kerrie Allen Contributing editors Tanya Burnett Kat Dean Dr. Guy Harvey Doug Perrine Danny Thornton Contributors Billy Ballou Bruno Deluche Pat Ford Captain Dave Lear Michael Patrick O’Neill Kevin Palmer E. Michael Riedt Jim Shira Mark Thien Justin Timineri Brian Wubbena editorial Advisory board Dr. Guy Harvey Chad Henderson Bill Shedd Dr. Mahmood Shivji Steve Stock David Wilkinson

in part by the Florida Department of Agriculture.

Guy Harvey Magazine is published four times per year: winter, spring, summer, and fall, by Lost Key Publishing, P.O. Box 34075, Pensacola, Florida 32507. No part of this magazine can be

We reCYCle: We’re proud that Guy Harvey Magazine is printed on recycled paper. However, using recycled paper is just the

from Lost Key Publishing. Occasionally, we may

first step. Finding an environmentally-friendly printer is even more important. That’s why this magazine is printed at Publishers Press

make all or part of our subscriber list available

in Shepherdsville, Kentucky. Publishers Press recycles more than 50 million pounds of paper and paper products each year, which

to carefully screened companies that offer

saves 10 million gallons of oil, 35,000 trees, and 14 million gallons of water. Publishers Press also recycles more than 300,000 pounds

products and/or services that may interest you.

of aluminum printing plates annually and no hazardous wastes are ever sent to a landfill, but are recycled and reused. The company is currently working toward certification by the Sustainable Green Printing (SGP) Partnership.

6

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Get in Touch

Sea of Plastic

Informative and Beautiful

I truly enjoy your magazine and loved the article “Sea of

We received our first Guy Harvey Magazine yesterday

recommendations from

Plastic” on page 26 of the spring edition. The photos of

and what perfect timing. Mason is in kindergarten and

our esteemed readers anytime.

the devastation and death were heart wrenching. I did

this week is Earth week at Lago Vista Elementary. He

Thanks and we hope to hear

notice that my magazine came delivered in a thick plastic

shared with his class and the other kinder classes the

from you soon!

bag. I find it sadly ironic that I had to peel off the heavy

article on the “Sea of Plastic” and “One Message, 12,000

duty wrapping to read the damage it can do. Not only

Bottles.” Just perfect educational timing. The Harrison

would it save the magazine some money, but pretty sure

Family thanks you for your wonderful magazine. It’s

it would help the environment if you did away with the

informative and beautiful.

We welcome comments and

Fan us on Facebook

deadly protective covering my magazine is shipped in.

Follow us on Twitter @GuyHarveyMag

@

Send us an e-mail editor@ guyharveymagazine.com

Andrew MAlen

Sincerely,

Deltona, FL

KIMberly HArrIson

From GHM:

Cover to Cover

Dear Andrew, good point about the plastic wrap. More than 95% of the wraps we use are recyclable and carry the

Write us a letter P.O. Box 34075 Pensacola, Florida 32507

triangular recycle symbol. At the same time, we are exploring wraps that are made out of soy and corn products that are

I just received my first GHM and I am impressed! I can honestly say that this is the first magazine I have read cover to cover in a LONG time. I look forward to future issues and also making the Shrimp Remoulade Wraps!

completely biodegradable. While some magazines come without any wraps, we try to protect the integrity of Guy Harvey Magazine with some sort of covering. We’ll keep you posted on new, biodegradable wrappings. Thanks.

Thank you! sUsAn via e-mail

Great Chef Excellent article on a terrific chef! Talk about working your way up the ladder to reach where your heart desires to be and gaining a wealth of experience along the way. More people need to adopt Bruno’s work ethic... energy, charm, ambition, and perseverance. lIQUId via online

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www.guyharveymagazine.com

I can honestly say that this is the first magazine I have read cover to cover in a LONG time.

gUy talk

WHy SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD, AqUACULTURE, AND SAFE FISHING PRACTICES ARE IMPORTANT TO THE FUTURE HEALTH OF THE GULF OF MEXICO

Back when Ernest Hemingway was discovering new

All of the above items can help, but some issues are

territory to catch big billfish, the resources in the sea

much more complex. For example, there’s the question of

were generally considered unlimited.The oceans were so

who owns the open oceans.This is particularly poignant

vast, so deep, and covered so much of the planet, it was

when it comes to shark populations as we’ve also

unthinkable that we could fish a species to extinction.

reported in past issues of Guy Harvey Magazine. Sharks

But these days, the unthinkable has become possible.

are being annihilated at astounding rates – up to 73

With seven billion mouths to feed on earth, and with

million sharks per year – mostly to cut off their fins for

the popularity of seafood, our oceans are threatened in

the Asian shark fin soup market.

innumerable ways. Add to that advanced fishing practices

Massive shark finning ships ply the oceans of the

from both commercial and recreational fishermen, and

world finding shark populations to exploit. One area

the pressure cooker continues closer to the boiling point.

under intense pressure are the Pacific waters near

This is why the Guy Harvey Ocean Foundation

Costa Rica, Panama, and Galapagos, which are, of course,

is on a mission to promote catch-and-release fishing

prime billfish territory as well. It’s a travesty that this is

GuY HARVEY

tournaments, and why I recommend only keeping what

occurring just for a bowl of soup.

is an internationally-acclaimed

you plan to eat and releasing the rest. It’s also why we

Fortunately, laws have been enacted in places like

artist, fisherman, scientist, and

advocate circle hooks because the mortality rate is far

Cocos Island, Costa Rica, and the Galapagos, to help

world traveler, who devotes

less than with J-hooks.The point being, why release a fish

protect their rich bounty of sea life. And the Bahamas are

much of his time and money

if it’s going to die anyway? And finally, we recommend

considering a permanent ban on shark fishing for their

toward ocean conservation.

releasing larger, breeder fish and keeping smaller fish that

entire country based in part on encouragement from the

you intend to eat. (See Guy Harvey Magazine article by

GHOF and others.The Guy Harvey team is also behind

Dr. Andrew West, Issue 1.)

the Shark Free Marina initiative, in which marinas pledge

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www.guyharveymagazine.com

not to allow anglers to bring in sharks they’ve caught and killed. Again, it’s

Perhaps the perfect example of sustainable seafood is the stone crab. Not

another way to promote catch-and-release. So there are a few bright spots,

only is it sustainable, but the animal isn’t even killed during the harvest. Instead,

but more needs to be done and GHOF continues to push that agenda.

the claw is removed, the crab is placed back into its habitat, and presto, a new

While the battle to protect sharks will undoubtedly rage for many years, what about seafood that we catch for dinner, buy at the seafood market, or order at our favorite restaurant? First of all, you should favor only sustainable species.

claw grows in its place.The phenomenon of the stone crab is unique and a great example of a renewable resource.

When I was a boy in Jamaica, I used to marvel at the fish farms on the island

It’s a practice we should all follow.There are many excellent seafood guides on

that grew tilapia. I was always amazed at how tough those fish were.We caught

the Internet (and on my website) to help you determine what species should be

them and, because we were young boys, we probably didn’t take care of them

avoided and which are sustainable.We also have a handy pocket guide you can

very well. Even in our carelessness, we couldn’t seem to kill them (not that we

carry with you.

were trying). Now, because they are so hearty and produce a very nice, white,

Fortunately, many species can be managed so that they are truly sustainable, meaning that the population is not declining because of overfishing. Dave Lear’s article in this issue further explains this in great detail.

The even better news is that there are many examples where fish

tender fillet, tilapia is becoming the poster child of farmed fish around the world.

Read more in Daryl Carson’s comprehensive article about Aquaculture.

We will probably never return to the days of Hemingway when the bounty from the sea seemed endless. However, we’re learning that we can be good

populations have actually rebounded after they had been fished near the brink of

stewards of the marine environment in many ways.We can use circle hooks,

extinction. California’s white sea bass and the Caribbean/Gulf of Mexico’s goliath

we can catch and release, we can manage fish species to sustainability, we can

grouper are two fish that were in dire circumstances in recent years. However,

eat only sustainable fish, we can expand our aquaculture efforts, and we can

efforts by fishing communities and government agencies were able to reverse

encourage our fishing buddies to do the same.

the trend and now both sea bass and goliath grouper populations are growing.

The writing/photography team of Tanya Burnett and Kevin Palmer has crafted a fine article in this issue highlighting more of these success stories.

If we continue to focus on these issues, there is hope that we can feed the planet’s growing population without depleting our ocean resources.

Fair winds and tight lines. www.guyharveymagazine.com

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gUy onlinE

GuyHarveyMagazine.com Goes Mobile Now you can access Guy Harvey Magazine’s website with a clean, userfriendly mobile version. If you’re looking for the latest news about Guy Harvey, fishing tournaments, articles from Guy Harvey Magazine, or maybe some of the

THE BIG

great recipes in the magazine, you can

GAME

access the information from your smart phone. And if you like what you see, you

IS ON.

The Big Game Club, a Guy Harvey Outpost Resort & Marina.

Two legends. One legendary experience. Since 1947, the destination for discriminating mariners, water sport enthusiasts and adventure travelers. Now fully renovated and improved throughout, join Guy Harvey and his friends in a new chapter in the history of this famous club that would make Hemingway proud.

can subscribe right then, without having to access your desktop or laptop. Cool, huh?

What’s Hot Have you checked out GuyHarveyMagazine.com lately? We have hundreds of pages packed full of great places to visits, conservation efforts, delicious recipes, gear, fishing tournaments and much more.

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• 51 rooms, dockside cottages and one bedroom suites • 75 slip full service marina capable of accommodating center consoles to mega yachts • The Bimini Bar and Grill, offering great food and fun overlooking the marina • The Outfitter Shop, a retail experience featuring sportswear, supplies and gifts • Dive Bimini, with extraordinary diving from our 60’ glass bottom dive boat • Black Fly Bimini, offering top of class backcountry fishing opportunities • Sportfishing charters with Bahamas legend, Captain Billy Black aboard his 53’ Rybovich “El Viejo”

of Guy Harvey Magazine.

Come be a part of history, and make some of your own while you’re here!

on the articles and give us your opinion, or just read some of the best

Check out some of our most popular articles from this year.

• Swimming with Tigers • New Hooks to Protect Bluefin Tuna in the Gulf • Kayak Fishing in the Blue Water

How would you like to get your article published in Guy Harvey Magazine or on our website? We are looking for stories about marine conservation and people who are working to better their local area. To submit your article please send an email to kat@guyharveymagazine.com

25º 43.34 N | 79º 17.45 W 800-867-4764 | BigGameClubBimini.com

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and attach your article along with pictures.

If your articles get selected then you will receive a free Guy Harvey Magazine T-Shirt!

Alligator · Amberjack · Blue Crab · Bluefish · Clams · Flounder · Golden Tilefish · Grouper King Mackerel · Mahi Mahi · Mullet · Oysters · Pompano · Rock Shrimp · Scallops · Sheepshead · Shrimp Snapper · Spanish Mackerel · Spiny Lobster · Stone Crab Claws · Swordfish · Tilapia · Yellowfin Tuna

Florida Gulf seafood is rigorously tested in state food safety laboratories. For information visit MyFloridaGulfSafe.com.

By Danny ThornTon

Big Game Tourney All the big players were in beautiful Bimini—from

World-famous sculptor Kent Ullberg crafted

Frank Johnson, inventor of the iconic Mold Craft

the First Place perpetual trophy, which went

Wide Range lures, to Guy Harvey himself. This

to team Renaissance/Varsity Jacket. A Frank

was the first annual Bimini Big Game Club Billfish

Johnson Perpetual Trophy was created by artist

Invitational at the Guy Harvey Outpost Resort.

Ed Pang and presented to Frank at a tribute

More than 50 anglers participated and there

banquet, where a few off-color stories made

was a lot of action—on and off the water. While

their way into the ceremony.

there were a fair number of hookups (with fish,

Other big fish in attendance were: Bill

that is) and numerous sightings, not as many fish

Shedd, president of AFTCO; Steve Stock,

were landed as everyone hoped. However, the

president of Guy Harvey Inc.; Greg Jacoski,

bluebird skies, windless days, and ultra-slick water

Guy Harvey Ocean Foundation manager; Ron

produced two big animal close encounters of

Kramer, president of IGFA; Mike Myatt, vice

the whale kind. The Hell’s Bay team spent about

president of IGFA; Chris and Wendy Peterson,

30 minutes snorkeling with a pod of pilot whales

owners of Hell’s Bay Boats; Charlie Forman,

that was feasting on a massive tuna, while Team

legendary South-Florida attorney; Bill Boyce

Tagline, owned by Gaston Legorburu, swam and

of WTN television; Fred Garth, editor-in-chief

rode a docile whale shark before “releasing” it

of Guy Harvey Magazine; Tournament Director

into the cobalt depths. For non-believers there’s

Capt. Ned Stone; and world-renowned marine

video and photo evidence to prove it.

photographers Scott Kerrigan and Pat Ford.

www.guyharveymagazine.com

he created. Below: Tournament Director Ned Stone (far left) presents the trophy to Team Renaissance, which celebrates with artist Kent Ullberg and Guy Harvey (holding trophy).

Kent Ullberg and his trophy.

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Above: Kent Ullberg and the stunning trophy

Newport Beach Film Festival

FEATURING: EMMA, THE TIGER SHARK

With WYLAND

In Issue 3 of GHM, we reported on the efforts of Guy Harvey, marine artist Wyland, and tiger shark expert and whisperer Jim Abernethy. The three gathered at Tiger Beach in the Bahamas to JIM AberNethY

GUY hArVeY

dive with and film the extraordinary interaction between man and shark. The result is the film This is Your Ocean: Sharks that dispels the notion of tiger sharks being mindless man-eaters, and introduces the audience to Emma, a 14-foot tiger shark. Abernethy has a special relationship

join three of the world’s premier ocean artists on a journey to save the world’s sharks

“THIS IS YOUR OCEAN: SHARKS” NARRATED BY DR. SYLvIA EARLE FEATURING WYLAND, JIM ABERNETHY, GUY HARvEY, AND EMMA THE TIGER SHARK WRITTEN, EDITED, AND DIRECTED BY GEORGE C. SCHELLENGER ExECUTIvE PRODUCERS WYLAND, JIM ABERNETHY, GUY HARvEY, GEORGE C. SCHELLENGER, & SHAWN HEINRICHS

WORLD PREMIERE, NEWPORT BEACH FILM FESTIVAL APRIL 2011

PHOTO BY WYLAND© 2011

with Emma and he describes her as “lovable as a puppy dog.” The film, which is narrated by legendary oceanographer Dr. Sylvia Earle, also focuses on the ongoing plight of sharks around the world.

“Sharks are not eating us,” Dr. Guy Harvey said. “We’re eating them. That’s the overall

Above: Just released, This is Your Ocean: Sharks gives an

picture that needs to change.” The Asian shark fin soup market accounts for the killing of up to

up-close encounter with tiger sharks in the Bahamas.

73 million sharks per year.

Above right: The film’s creators receive the first ever

Emmy award-winning producer George C. Schellenger directed and produced this timely

MacGillivray Freeman Films Award for Special Achievement

documentary, which won the prestigious MacGillivray-Freeman Award at the Newport Beach

in Environmental Filmmaking: (left to right) George C.

Film Festival in April 2011. For more information go to www.thisisyourocean.com/thefilm.

Schellenger, Jim Abernethy, Sean MacGillivray, Shawn Heinrichs, Guy Harvey, and Wyland.

Guy oN THe BiG SCreeN The Glass is Half Carved At the 2010 Guy Harvey Ocean Foundation fundraising banquet in Ft. Lauderdale, one of the top selling items was a sand carving by artist Lex Melfi, titled Save our Seas. It was Lex’s interpretation of Guy’s Save Our Seas art that sold more than 50,000 T-shirts after the oil spill and raised $500,000 for the GHOF. Melfi’s glass is not etched, but is carved, which is more complex and detailed. Carving gives the piece a threedimensional appearance and makes the work come to life. There are only a handful of sand carving artists in the world who can do what Lex does without fracturing the half-inch plate glass. And all of his work is illuminated by LED lights to showcase the intricate designs. More information can be found at www.lexmelfi.com. www.guyharveymagazine.com

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Trick out your ride with a GH License Plate

Gear Up with Guy for the Summer

And you thought coffee couldn’t get any better...

We’ve all waited in that molasses-slow line

directly from the growers. Currently, you

at the Department of Motor Vehicles. It’s no

can buy four types: Organic Santo Domingo

fun, especially after the wallet fleecing they

Medium Roast, Deep Blue Blend Medium

give you. But my recent visit to the DMV

Dark Roast, Organic Wild Earth Blend

was different. I was purchasing a shiny, new

French Roast, and Organic Caribbean

Guy Harvey “Catch Me, Release Me” license

Blend Medium Light Roast. All bags come

plate. It cost an extra $36, but I was happy to

adorned with Guy’s fab art. To learn more

pay it knowing that part of the money goes to

or buy it online, go to

support the Guy Harvey Ocean Foundation.

www.coffeeroastersalliance.com.

Plus, I’m a rolling ad for Guy and our mutual

(SUP) are in collaboration with Ark

specialty license plates in Florida, all for good

Boards (www.arkboards.com) and they’re

causes. But as a fisherman, boater, scuba diver,

calling them a “Work of Ark.” Clever,

and marine conservation advocate, this one

huh? The company is making limited

fits me the best. And as soon as they make a

edition SUPs with Guy’s artwork on

hybrid pickup truck, I’ll buy one and put the

each custom-made and numbered board.

tag on that. (Sorry, but Florida is the only state

Only 15 SUPs will be produced with

offering the tag at this time.)

each work of art. The GH SUPs are made

It’s not just license plates that are new

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The super-cool Stand Up Paddleboards

conservation beliefs.There are more than 100

in the USA and look so sharp you may

to the GH signature logo. Now, there’s Guy

decide to hang yours over the mantle as

Harvey coffee to jump-start your day, and

a showpiece. But don’t be shy. Get out

Guy Harvey Stand Up Paddleboards to ride

there and have some fun. Ark blends

on once you’re hyped up on coffee! The new

beauty with durability and functionality.

coffee is a product of the Coffee Roasters

And they have a sweet fishing version

Alliance that produces organic coffees

that I’ve already put on my list for Santa.

On the Cover: Yellowfin tuna, which is popular as both a gamefish and seafood dish, was threatened by the Deepwater Horizon oil spill.

Circle Hook Symposium The Guy Harvey Ocean Foundation was a sponsor of the International Circle Hook Symposium held in Miami, Florida, May 4-6, 2011. The event attracted an international audience of 180 scientists, resource managers, and environmentalists, and featured a keynote address by Dr. Steven Cooke of Carleton University, Canada, entitled, “Are the benefits of circle hooks in recreational fisheries overstated or understated? Scientific and stakeholder perspective.”

Dr. John Graves of the Virginia Institute of Marine Science, College of William & Mary, presented “The conservation benefits of circle hooks in marine commercial and recreational fisheries: insights from studies of pelagic fishes.” Individuals from 20 countries contributed 80 oral and poster presentations (in sessions) on Circle Hooks and Commercial Fisheries; Circle Hooks and Recreational Fisheries; Circle Hooks and Sharks; Circle Hooks and Sea Turtle By-catch; Circle Hooks and Human Dimensions; and Circle Hooks–Assessment and Management. While some of the information presented made it clear that circle hooks may not be the “fix” in all instances, in many cases they can have a huge conservation benefit to by-catch without a negative impact on catch rates of target species.

Beall’s

unique Furnishings

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Bealls offers the freshest catch of Guy Harvey apparel, and a great

Discover a new way to enjoy Guy Harvey with our Handcrafted Humidors,

selection of Guy Harvey accessories, home, and gift items.

Jewelry Boxes, Wooden Placemats, Serving Trays and Casual Furniture.

Guy Harvey outdoors Fiberbuilt umbrellas www.GuyHarveyoutdoors.com Our umbrellas, patio furniture, cushions, golf umbrellas, towels, and tents are inspired by Guy Harvey’s popular marine wildlife paintings.

GoTTa-Go Gear www.GuyHarveyDecals.com New Guy Harvey signature vehicle & boat vinyl decals. Freshwater/ saltwater designs, available in variety of colors. Made in the USA.

CusHease

Lex Melfi www.LexMelfi.com Beautiful Guy Harvey Art now offered in

Guy Harvey Jewelry www.GuyHarveyJewelry.com

three-dimensional “Sand Carved Glass.”

Custom order for your home, yacht,

Guy Harvey Jewelry: a perfect gift for any Guy

or business.

Harvey fan. Show your GH spirit with a piece from this collection.

Tervis www.Tervis.com Tervis keeps hot drinks hot and cold drinks cold, are virtually indestructible, and dishwasher, and microwave safe. www.guyharveymagazine.com

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Adam Putnam, Commissioner of Agriculture for the State of Florida

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www. guyharveymagazine. com

FishinÕ with the

CommishÕ

by GHM STAFF PHOTOS BY FRED GARTH

Adam H. Putnam, a.k.a. The Commish’, is the commissioner of agriculture for the State of Florida. A Florida native and outdoorsman, his connection to sustainable seafood is both professional and personal.

GHM: Commissioner Putnam, you’re settling into Tallahassee as the head of the Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services after five congressional terms in Washington. Your record in Washington, and prior to that in the Florida legislature, reflects continual involvement in agriculture issues, not to mention that you are a fifth-generation Florida rancher and citrus farmer. It seems obvious you have

GHM recently coaxed The Commish’ out of

a strong connection to our natural resources and a

his Tallahassee office for some time on the

Tell us what you hope to accomplish in your new role

water and a discussion about the state of

passion for helping manage, promote, and protect them. that you’ve not had an opportunity to do before.

I do feel a strong connection to our natural resources.You mentioned

seafood in Florida.

I’m a fifth-generation cattle rancher and citrus grower. I also grew up outdoors, fishing and hunting – and I’m giving my children the same experiences.

As Florida’s commissioner of agriculture, I’m focused on a number of initiatives, including improving nutrition in schools and public assistance www. guyharveymagazine. com

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Commisioner Putnam (right) is just taking on the role as head of Florida’s Department of Agriculture, but he brings plenty of experience to the job, both as a Florida rancher and citrus farmer, and a former U.S. and Florida state legislator.

programs, expanding opportunities for

plummeted immediately after the event and

ensure they are safe to eat. Since the oil spill,

renewable energy production, and helping to

consumer confidence still remains low. While

the Department’s Chemical Residue Lab has

conserve Florida’s water quality and quantity.

there is currently no evidence that oil from

collected and screened samples of seafood

In response to last year’s oil spill in the Gulf

the spill has tainted Florida’s seafood, nearly

for oil contaminants and dispersants such as

of Mexico, the Department is also focused

every fisherman, oysterman, wholesaler, retail

polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). To

on raising awareness for the proven safety of

owner, and restaurateur has experienced

date, the lab has screened samples of seafood

Gulf seafood.

losses due to public misperceptions.

and none have shown levels of concern for

GHM: The Department of

marketing efforts, we are working to not only

Agriculture’s stated mission is to

ensure the safety of Gulf seafood, but also

is also working to get this information

bolster consumer confidence in its safety and

out and reestablish public confidence by

Through the Department’s testing and

both promote healthy industries

public health or consumption.

The Department’s marketing division

abundance. Florida’s Gulf coasts are clean and

raising awareness for the proven safety of

and to protect consumer interests.

open for business, and through an aggressive

Gulf seafood. This includes the “Gulf Safe”

How is this playing out in the

marketing campaign, we are translating this

campaign, which was launched in August 2010

realm of Florida seafood and

information not only to Floridians, but also to

to assure customers that Florida seafood

consumers in other states and countries.

is safe to eat. The campaign encourages

what kinds of things does the Department do to benefit those of us who love to catch and consume Florida fish?

restaurants and retail stores to label their

GHM: You’ve mentioned the

products, and airs ads across the region to

Department’s testing and

raise awareness for the proven safety of Gulf

marketing efforts in response

Promoting Florida’s seafood industry and

to the oil spill. Can you be more

ensuring consumer confidence really go hand-

specific about what that entails?

in-hand. A great example of this is the recent oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico, which sent a

The Department of Agriculture and

shockwave through Florida’s seafood industry.

Consumer Services is responsible for testing

Seafood sales in Florida, and across the nation,

seafood harvests from the Gulf of Mexico to

24

www. guyharveymagazine. com

seafood.

GHM: In regard to testing, can you tell us how much has been done so far, and if testing will continue for the long term?

Commissioner Putnam and his press secretary Sterling Ivey with a nice redfish to start the day, and a reminder of what’s at stake in promoting and protecting sustainable seafood.

To date, the lab has screened 278 samples

of the BP oil response, but looking

Reef Fish Shareholder’s Alliance, through their

of seafood, including finfish, shrimp, crabs,

further down the road, can you

Gulf Wild program.This program uses a tracking

lobsters, and oysters, and less than 13 percent were found to have any trace of

also tell us about other activities

system that ensures the safety of seafood through traceability. Fish tag identification numbers allow

PAHs. All findings were less than 1/1000th

the Department of Agriculture is

of the Food and Drug Administration’s

involved in that will help ensure

where it was caught, and even at what port the

(FDA) levels of concern.

long-term productivity of Florida

fish landed. Consumers simply enter the fish tag

fisheries?

I.D. online at www.mygulfwild.com to access

We will continue to monitor seafood coming from the Gulf for long-term effects of the oil spill. With $10 million in additional

consumers to track when a fish was caught,

the information. The capability for consumers to access information about Gulf seafood

funding from BP over the next three years,

To protect the target population of a variety

empowers them to make choices that

the Department will be able to enhance the

of seafood, the National Marine Fisheries

promote sustainability.

capabilities of its laboratories to conduct

Service of the National Oceanic and

and analyze up to 80 seafood samples

Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) has

per month. This routine testing for oil,

established quotas that limit overfishing and

dispersants, and metals will assure the safety

the harvesting of more fish than the species

of Florida’s seafood for several years to

can naturally replenish.Yet, the market is

significant part of moving toward

come and further restore public confidence

also a driving force in ensuring seafood

sustainable seafood. How is the

in these products. Consumers can visit www.

sustainability. Because consumer preference

Department helping to foster

freshfromflorida.com/fs/ to find the latest

is leaning more and more toward sustainable

aquaculture activities and what

summary of test results.

products, supermarkets and restaurants are buying more sustainable products. The

GHM: The focus of this special

increased demand gives fishermen the

edition of Guy Harvey Magazine

incentive to practice sustainability.

is seafood sustainability. We’ve talked about the immediate issue

One thing the Department of Agriculture

GHM: Increasing aquaculture production would seem to be a

challenges does this segment of the seafood industry face?

The Department’s role is to ensure the

and Consumer Services has done is to

safety of Florida’s aquaculture harvesting

partner with groups like the Gulf of Mexico

areas in order to preserve the longwww. guyharveymagazine. com

25

term sustainability of shellfish. Pollution

perspective. The Florida seafood industry

million each year for communities such as

can contaminate shellfish harvesting areas,

abides by the state’s high environmental and

Cedar Key, Sebastian, and Pine Island, derived

impacting the health of the seafood product.

safety standards. Unfortunately, standards of

from nearly 2,250 acres of leased public lands.

The Department routinely monitors water

production for these activities vary widely

quality parameters in each of Florida’s shellfish

across the globe. For example, some of the

GHM: Commissioner, thank

harvesting areas. Sub-surface water samples

seafood aquaculture products imported into

are collected, placed in ice-filled coolers, and

this country have been raised using high

you for your time. Bringing this

shipped overnight to a certified laboratory.

doses of antibiotics to mitigate the bacteria

conversation full-circle, it’s

Within 24 hours, our teams are able to analyze

that form in overstocked ponds, whereas use

evident there are powerful forces

the samples and determine the level of bacteria.

of antibiotics in this country is only permitted

at work in the world of seafood,

If contaminants present a health hazard,

in low doses and is closely monitored.

from government to commercial

the area is closed for harvesting until it is

Purchasing “Fresh from Florida” seafood

and recreational industries, to

determined safe. Additionally, the Department

products not only ensures consumers they

partners with the industry to educate

are eating safe and sustainable products, but is

fish farmers and the markets and

harvesters on how to prevent contamination

also an opportunity for consumers to support

restaurants they sell to, and each

and closure of shellfish beds.

the Florida economy. The shellfish aquaculture

has an interest in sustainability.

industry has proven to be economically

What role do consumers have and

industry in Florida, a critical component

important to rural, coastal communities.

is educating consumers about the value of

Hard clam farming, for example, generates

can our voices be heard?

the product, especially from a public health

a statewide economic impact of about $50

As for growing the aquaculture

26

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Consumers can really create demand by making informed purchases when buying seafood and asking for sustainable seafood.

After all, restaurants and supermarkets are in the business of carrying what customers want. Raising the consumer demand for sustainable seafood is one of the easiest and most effective ways you can help protect our fishery resources. If you’re a seafood consumer, you can support environmentallyfriendly fisheries and aquaculture practices.

The best seafood choices include fish that are harvested in a sustainable way using gear that allows for the least harm to the species’ population and to the environment.

One priority for the Department of Agriculture in the near future is to maintain the high-level of testing for Gulf seafood after last year’s BP oil spill. Recent funding from BP will continue this program for at least three more years.

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www. guyharveymagazine. com

27

bright spots in our seas

by Kevin Palmer

In the continual effort of marine conservation it is tempting to ask, “Are we there yet?” even when we know there will always be work to do. Yet there are a number of success stories where conservation efforts are really paying off and sustainability is within reach.

28

www. guyharveymagazine. com

Photo by Michael Patrick O’Neill

L

overs of marine life, fishing, and seafood have been through some stressful years of late. The many factions that have interest in the marine environment, from recreational to scientific to economic, have long been

wrestling over the common goal of a sustainable marine ecosystem. And while there are still plenty of fronts that justify concern, it is extremely rewarding to see that the conservation community’s collective efforts are having a real impact. We are making progress in understanding and successfully managing certain fisheries. Even better, we are seeing specific species that were once on the brink are now making a comeback.

Of course, none of the success stories here are static projects.

There is still much to learn about habitat, spawning behavior, food sources, sexual maturity data, migratory patterns, repercussions of fishing techniques, and countless other details that factor into sound management plans. However, success in each of these species has the potential to generate greater understanding and more rapid progress with other species.

Moreover, with each step, sustainability is becoming a reality.

iStockphoto.com/JodiJacobson

01

BLUE CRABS

The world famous ingredient to Maryland’s crab

declined considerably from their peak in 1965

the biggest supplier in the Gulf states, has

cakes no longer comes primarily from Maryland.

at 27 million pounds to a fluctuating catch of

petitioned the Marine Stewardship Council

The Chesapeake Bay delicacy has been under

about 30%-60% of that number. The number

(MSC) to see if they can qualify for “sustainable

considerable pressure and stocks had been

of fishermen and traps has also increased so

fishery” status. That review is not complete yet,

declining for much of the last 15 years in the Bay.

drastically that annual takes per boat are less than

but it is a good sign of the direction the fishery

In the last few years, however, aggressive moves

20% of the early hauls.The fisheries on both the

is pursuing. The biggest challenges to the Gulf

have been made to manage and improve the state

Atlantic and the Gulf coasts were in slow decline

fishery are “overcapitalization” – as in Florida,

of the fishery in the Chesapeake. Stock numbers

for decades, but starting in 2002 there started to

there are just too many commercial licenses

are once again on the rise though they have not

be a rebound in crab numbers that seemed to

issued – and the fact that shrimp trawlers

yet reached sustainability levels. For the first time

coincide with a period of wetter weather. Scientists

have actually been catching more blue crab as

in over a decade, the Bay population has been

are realizing there are still many unknowns

by-catch than the entire fishery is landing in a

over the target for two consecutive years and

with the blue crab, but it does seem capable of

year. The by-catch is at least partially released,

the highest numbers since 1997. Based on this

impressive reproduction numbers when conditions

but the mortality rates are thought to be quite

progress, new targets are being set for 2012-

are right.The research continues, but the good

high. Both of these issues are gradually being

2026. However, the Maryland,Virginia, and North

news is the fishery appears to be sustainable if

addressed through regulation and improved

Carolina fishery is just part of the blue crab story.

regulations are maintained.

technologies in trawlers. Ongoing research

The blue crab fishery is one of Florida’s

The Gulf of Mexico has become a major

indicates that eventually most of these fisheries

most important and has been regulated since

supplier of blue crabs and the fishery is of great

should be able to increase total landings while

1947. The numbers of Florida crab landings have

economic importance to the region. Louisiana,

actually improving the sustainability of stocks.

30

www. guyharveymagazine. com

Photo by Michael Patrick O’Neill

02

GOLIATH GROUPER

If there is a poster child for the type of documented recovery that is possible once protected status is implemented for a given species, it is arguably the imposing likeness of the goliath grouper. As an easily caught game fish, goliaths saw a precipitous decline from the 1950s until threatened species status and fishing bans were established

Photo by Tanya Burnett

in 1990. Photos from the old Key West docks in the ‘50s show day fishing boats bringing in a dozen or more enormous goliaths per trip.

However, those of us diving Florida’s Atlantic and Gulf Coasts in the

at somewhere in the 15-30% range and the goliaths were de-listed

late ‘80s were only able to chase rumors of these big fish, like a single

as “threatened” in 2006. Currently, this grouper is a prohibited

specimen hidden in the Box Cars off Tampa, or a juvenile in the hold

species for fishing and that status is not expected to change in the

of the Mizpah wreck off Palm Beach. By the new millennium, a buzz

near future. Unintentional catches must be released unharmed

was starting throughout the diving community, as numerous artificial

immediately. It is unclear if a fully recovered goliath population could

and natural reefs on both coasts of Florida were sporting not one,

ever sustain a viable fishery, but the chance of seeing living specimens

but several goliaths. Local divers witnessed consistent improvement

reaching their 800 lb. maximum bulk is improving yearly. Not all

in both the number and size of the groupers. Even more exciting was

areas in their original territory have recovered equally, but the areas

the discovery of goliath spawning behavior on the deep reefs, which

with the greatest progress have seen a nice economic bounce with

stimulated a great interest in both the scientific and recreational dive

dive tourism. Today, every diver that feels a rush from being in the

community. While no one really knows what the baseline once was

presence of 10 or 20 of these impressive giants is really celebrating a

for a healthy goliath population, best estimates place the recovery

giant-sized success. www. guyharveymagazine. com

31

03

STOnE CRAB

04

SPIny LOBSTER

Stone crabs are a unique fishery in that only the claws of legal size are

Forty years ago, it was easy to run a boat almost anywhere in the

harvested for their meat, and the crab is released alive. As with most

Florida Keys and find multiple lobsters under nearly every coral head.

crustaceans, the claws are regenerated during future molts. The delectable

Lobsters are probably just too popular a food for that to be the case

and pricey seafood has become as iconic as sunshine to the state of

again, but we do have what is generally considered a sustainable and

Florida and is highly sought after during the October 15 to May 15 season

successful fishery in the Gulf and Southeast coasts. The Fisheries

each year. By regulating the size of the claw, banning claw removal of

Management Plan (FMP) was implemented in 1982 and has been

egg bearing females, and limiting the season, stone crab numbers have

revised numerous times since. The vast majority of the commercial

remained high on both the Atlantic and Gulf coasts of Florida. By the late

fishery is in the Keys and there is currently a trap reduction program

1990s, it became clear that the ever-increasing number of commercial

and mandatory use of degradable trap panels to prevent lost “ghost

traps were not increasing the overall catch by weight. In 2002, a “passive”

traps” from killing entrapped marine life. With continued monitoring

trap reduction program was instituted and it is generally considered wise

and further adjustments to the regulations, this enormously popular

to continue to reduce the number of traps. At this time, commercial and

crustacean should be around for a long time. While there are similar

recreational fishermen are allowed to remove both claws if they are of

FMPs for Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands, the status of the

legal size.

Caribbean/Central American lobster fishery is largely unknown, but their health may have an impact on future demands of U.S. stocks.

32 www. guyharveymagazine. com Photo

by Michael Patrick O’Neill

Photo by Tanya Burnett

05

HARD CLAMS

In 1995, Florida instituted a controversial, statewide ban on gill nets,

One of the most notable of these alternative success stories

which in turn put many commercial fishermen in a place of considering a

started unfolding on the Gulf Coast of Florida: raising hard clams

new livelihood. Hundreds of fishermen, particularly in the Gulf, had spent

in the abundant, shallow, sandy bottom around the Cedar Key area.

decades using gillnets to harvest inshore species. In the early 1990s,

Many dispirited gillnet fishermen in the region took on the challenge

several of these inshore fisheries were in decline, and problematic by-

of learning this new aquaculture business, and by 1998, Florida was

catch like redfish and sea turtles were of growing concern.While there

producing 10% of the nation’s clams and about $7.5 million in revenue.

was a difficult burden born primarily by these traditional fishermen, most

The warm waters of the Gulf allow essentially the same clams from the

agree that the numbers of mullet, Spanish mackerel, bluefish, and redfish

central Atlantic coast to grow two to three times as fast.Today, Florida

have rebounded substantially today. Some species are making slower

hard clams are raised in five counties, creating a $54 million industry:

progress, but the game fish that prey on these inshore species have also

completely sustainable and having no notable harmful impacts on the

seen significant improvements.The reduction in the commercial fishing

environment. Florida Sea Grant is involved in numerous aquaculture

contribution to the economy has been somewhat offset by the boom

projects in the state and is supporting research to expand and diversify

in improved sport and recreational fishing economies, as well as some

the hard clam fishery, including adding the native Sunray Venus clam as a

surprising alternative fisheries.

companion product. www. guyharveymagazine. com

33

06

SnOOK

The common snook, also known as Robalo,

seines sprang up in Florida, and by 1957, it was

to see schools of over a hundred fish glistening

has long inspired an almost cult-like following

illegal to buy or sell snook – strong action in

in the shallow water. The extremely cold

among anglers. It may have been such passion

its day. In the ensuing years, the regulations

winter of 2010 killed thousands of snook in

and enthusiasm that was instrumental in

and fishing seasons have been modified over

Florida, but rapid response was taken to limit

making this fishery one of the earlier ones to

a dozen times, and today there appears to

fishing until assessments could be done and the

receive attention and management. Starting

be a viable, healthy population for future

season on both coasts are set to open again on

as early as 1947, limited restrictions on haul

generations. In prime habitat, it is now possible

September 1, 2011.

Photo by Michael Patrick O’Neill

34

www. guyharveymagazine. com

07

RED SnAPPER

Few fisheries have engendered more heated

Florida and Georgia. It is hoped that new theories

surge in populations in the next 10 years. Even

debates, concerns, and statistics than that of the

on the habitat of the older, more productive

while stocks are recovering, both commercial and

red snapper. A visit to the NOAA website to

spawning red snapper will help speed recovery of

recreational catches should soon be allowed to

analyze the last 30 years of regulation change,

these stocks. With recent evidence that snapper

exceed what they are today, and by 2036, catches

assessment counts, biomass analysis, and recovery

may reproduce more rapidly than expected,

could be double what they were at their peak in

projections will uncover many hours worth

there is hope that both fisheries may be able to

the 1960s – and still be sustainable.

of reading and more charts and graphs than a Fortune 500 board meeting. This extremely popular recreational and commercial food fish is

Photo by Tanya Burnett

managed by two different programs and agencies: one in the Gulf of Mexico and another in the southeast Atlantic. The pressures and influences are a bit different in each area and the Gulf is by far the most productive fishery. Management also started much earlier in the Gulf and it was realized in the ‘80s that the snapper were severely overfished. One of the big challenges in the Gulf was that the shrimp fishery was taking netting large quantities of juvenile red snapper as by-catch. In 1990, when scientists tried to establish what would be the maximum allowable snapper harvest to rebuild the stocks, it was discovered that shrimp trawler by-catch alone exceeded the proposed catch limits. Thus unfolds the last 20 years of nearly constant research and regulation adjustment, along with cooperation between the commercial shrimp and snapper fisheries to reduce pressures on the stocks.

Red snapper numbers started making small increases in the mid ‘90s and have made some more notable increases in the last few years in the Gulf, where stocks are now estimated to be about 11% of their 1945 levels. Some Gulf fishing operations report that stock recovery appears even better than that.

In contrast, the Atlantic fishery management plan started much later and stocks are currently estimated at 3-5% of the 1945 levels. Dramatic restrictions have been implemented that close off vast areas of the deeper fishing grounds off www. guyharveymagazine. com

35

08

SWORDFISH

09

OYSTERS

Swordfish are highly migratory and roam

grounds were closed to swordfish, while

thousands of miles along the Atlantic seaboard

importing undersize fish was also banned. At

statistics. More than 85% of the world’s oyster reefs

of the U.S., as well as the Eastern Atlantic

the same time, the ICCAT instituted a 10-year

have declined to the point they are functionally extinct.

coasts.The advent of longlining and the general

plan for the fishery’s recovery, and by 2006, the

Yet, the reproductive cycle of oysters is actually fairly

popularity of the fish put severe pressure on

North Atlantic Swordfish had rebounded to

resilient to fishing pressures. For the most part, there

the fishery as a whole. In 1985 when the first

98% of the target goal – ahead of schedule! By

are just a handful of productive fisheries left in North

FMP was established, there was great concern

2009, the fishery was declared fully recovered.

America. A small fishery in Canada and a couple of

about the amount of juvenile swordfish being

There is far less data on the fishery in the

small, sustainable fisheries on the U.S. east coast (New

taken, as well as the influence of overseas

southeast, but recreational observations have

Jersey and Maryland) and the Gulf of Mexico are

fisheries on the migratory population.

seen substantial increases in the swordfish

largely what remain of a massive and once abundant

Eventually, the International Commission for

populations off the east coast of Florida in

world fishery. The Gulf of Mexico is considered the

Conservation of Atlantic Tuna (ICCAT) – that

the same timeframe.Though the fishery now

last best place to produce and harvest oysters, mostly

also includes the swordfish fishery – got

seems stable (5% over target in the northeast),

in an aquaculture format. There are still techniques

involved, but populations continued to decline.

the pelagic longline fishing technique most

to improve upon, but Florida has taken the strongest

The turnaround came in large part in 1998

often employed does pose numerous threats

stand to harvesting by allowing only tonging or hand

when public awareness was raised with the

to unintended by-catch of pelagic fish and

collection. The Apalachicola Bay area produces 90% of

“Give Swordfish a Break” campaign. Some

mammals. Regulations such as requiring circle

Florida’s oysters and is considered one of the cleanest

750 prominent U.S. chefs committed to not

hooks to reduce by-catch deaths and satellite

oyster-producing regions. The dredging in the rest of

serving swordfish and supermarkets followed

monitoring of boats to keep them out of high

the regions has clearly been shown to be destructive

suit.The National Fisheries Management

risk fishing grounds are helping, but there is

to oyster reefs and detrimental to the entire reef

Service applied new standards in 1999 and

still progress to be made here, and there are

ecosystem – even tonging has proved problematic if

over 130,000 square miles of Atlantic fishing

fishing techniques that are far more selective.

done carelessly.

Photo courtesy of IGFA www. guyharveymagazine. com

36

Oysters are a topic rife with seemingly contradictory

Photo by Doug Perrine

THE LOng VIEW This brief compilation is in no way meant to cover all the good work that is being done by researchers, dedicated

10

professionals, commercial fishermen, and passionate marine

SummER FLOunDER

enthusiasts. Nor does it suggest that there are not a myriad of serious fishery dilemmas still ahead of us. Perhaps it is best to look at the current environmental picture

This important fish has been popular with both

as a snapshot in time at a point of transition in marine

commercial and recreational fishermen from the

stewardship. Understanding and progress are coming hand-

east coast of Florida up to Maine. The fishery was in decline and overfished for decades until the FMP was

in-hand as a map is made of what works in an abundant, but

implemented in 1983. The logistics of assessing and

finite ocean, so it can be copied and modified to address

enacting a plan’s details are never as straightforward as the concept would imply, and summer flounder numbers

needs in different corners of the globe. Ultimately, that is the

continued to decline for another decade. However, in

importance of shining a light on what works, as well as what

the mid ‘90s, the population finally changed direction as

doesn’t. Nature constantly reminds us that the best kind of

recreational catches came more into line, and species numbers have continued to improve since. Best estimates

problem to have is one that we created in the first place –

today are that flounder numbers will fully recover by

because there is a very good chance we can put it right again.

2013, exactly 30 years since action was first taken.

www. guyharveymagazine. com

37

Catfish farming makes up nearly 40 percent of aquaculture operations in the U.S., with most farms nestled in southern states where land costs are low and there is an established infrastructure for supplying feed.

Here, fish are waiting to be loaded into oxygenated tanks and sent for processing.

Photo courtesy of USDA

by DARYL CARSON

AQUACULTURE:

The rising tide of aquaculture brings with it a big promise: to help feed the world while saving the oceans. Can it deliver?

The proverb about giving a man a fish and he will eat for a day, or teaching

near or exceeding levels of sustainability, significantly boosting aquaculture

a man to fish and he will eat for a lifetime may be due for an update. In the

becomes an obvious part of the solution to feeding the future.

new millennium it could be said, “Teach a man to fish and he’ll deplete his

Such intense global demand has already made aquaculture one of

resources. Teach a man to farm fish and he’ll provide an environmentally

the fastest growing forms of food production in the world. The modern

sound, economically viable source of protein for a ravenous world market

aquaculture industry includes fish, mollusks, and plant life raised for any

addicted to seafood.” Or something like that.

number of purposes, including human consumption, the aquarium trade,

The verbiage could be tightened up, but the facts support this new

research purposes, and wild fish restocking programs. When it comes to

bit of seafood consumption wisdom. A recent report from the Food

seafood targeted for restaurant menus and grocery stores, the market is

and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) says that

massive and globally integrated. Today’s popular menu and grocery items

aquaculture – the farming of fish and other aquatic species – already

like salmon, catfish, and tilapia are nearly all farmed. Much of it is shipped

accounts for nearly half of the seafood consumed around the globe.

around the world, and the U.S. is a big consumer.

Statistically speaking, that means of the 115 million tons of seafood

According to statistics released by NOAA’s Aquaculture Program,

consumed worldwide, every other bite of seafood eaten by humans does

Americans are responsible for eating nearly 7 million tons of seafood

not come from an ocean, river, or lake but from a pond, tank, or cage.

each year. The vast majority of this, up to 84%, is imported. In economic

In addition, if current population trends continue, the FAO predicts the

terms, that leaves the U.S. with a whopping seafood trade deficit of

world will need an additional 40 million tons of seafood by the year 2030.

$9 billion. Where does all that money go? Much of it goes to Asia, where

Given that many experts agree the world’s oceans are already being fished

China dominates aquaculture production, along with Thailand,Vietnam, and www. guyharveymagazine. com

39

While finfish farming in the U.S. has focused mostly on catfish, tilapia, and salmon, technologies for new species are being developed. Most notable are marine species like pompano, which can tolerate life in low-salinity tanks and bring premium prices at market. Photo courtesy of FAU’s Harbor Branch Oceanographic Institute others in the region, where they produce mass

couple on a Friday night looking for a nice

newly refurbished set of aquaculture policies

amounts of shrimp and tilapia. In fact, 80% of the

seafood dinner? It means unless they are content

aimed at managing the impacts of aquaculture

farmed shrimp in the world come from this area.

with catfish, tilapia, or salmon fillets – and

on marine and coastal environments. NOAA’s

In comparison, U.S. aquaculture is scant. Of

many are not – whatever fish they eat is likely

work includes not only structuring regulations

the $70 billion worth of farm-raised seafood

coming from the ocean. So, while aquaculture is

for federal waters, but also funding research and

sold each year, only $1.2 billion is produced

supplying half of the seafood consumed globally,

partnering with other agencies. This activity is

in the U.S. The vast majority is freshwater

it is still not alleviating some of the greatest

also being mirrored at the state level, especially

production, with catfish reigning supreme and

pressures on wild fish stocks, and the issue is

in Florida, where all kinds of groups are on the

holding about 40% of the market. The southern

species discrimination. Catfish and tilapia are

move, from government agencies to private

states of Mississippi, Alabama, Louisiana, and

tolerant of fresh water and crowded quarters

business associations to university research

Arkansas dominate catfish production, thanks

– conditions easy to come by in aquaculture

facilities. In fact, Florida’s aquaculture industry

to low costs and an established infrastructure

operations – and are relatively easy and

might stand to gain the most from increased

of feed supply and processing plants. Elsewhere

profitable to farm. Most marine fish are not so

farming of marine finfish and is an interesting

around the country, there is notable production

agreeable, yet it is high-quality marine fish that

test case for expanding aquaculture generally.

of trout, salmon, tilapia, sturgeon, walleye, and

bring the best prices per pound in restaurants

Success could not only ease pressure on the

yellow perch, but marine (saltwater) aquaculture

and seafood markets, and this demand puts

state’s fishing grounds, but could likely be

accounts for less than 20%, or only about $200

pressure on fisheries.

reproduced in other regions.

million of U.S. production. This includes some

But interest in farming marine species is

This would be good news for the state. Like

fish, but is largely made up of clams, oysters, and

on the rise. In fact, so much interest has been

many coastal areas, Florida has seen success in

other mollusks grown in coastal areas.

building that at the time of this writing, NOAA

farming shellfish. Apalachicola is renowned for

just closed the public comment period on a

oysters, producing 90% of the state’s output

So, what does this mean to an average 40

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and a full 10% for the nation. A bit further south, Cedar Key hosts

Officials at the Road Prison in Escambia County, Florida, have developed

a strong clam farming operation. Cedar Key Littlenecks clams, also

a successful tilapia farm that is reducing food costs for the county.The

known as “Cedar Key Sweets” get packed in ice and shipped all over

farm recently hatched its own brood stock for the first time.

the country as fresh seafood product. But when it comes to typical

Photos courtesy of Escambia County Road Prison

fish farming operations, such as producing catfish and tilapia, the state has largely missed out.

“We have a five-acre farm here and grow our own vegetables. And the reason for farming tilapia is to help us become more self-sufficient and cut costs.”

Florida has fewer than 60 of the more than 1,300 catfish farms in the country. The majority are located Mississippi, Alabama, Arkansas, and Louisiana. Cheap land and an established infrastructure of feed providers and processing facilities has kept production costs low in these other southern states, and Florida farmers are not able to compete. Likewise, Florida’s tilapia farmers are equally hard-pressed. Their battle is often against mass imports from Asian producers that flood supermarket and restaurants with low-cost products.

“They really put your backs against the wall,” says David Boozer, of the Florida Aquaculture Association, which seeks to promote and encourage aquaculture businesses. “Foreign producers can bring in tilapia at such a low price, it’s hard to compete with,” he says. He says Florida farmers also deal with rising commodity prices, such as base materials for feed. “Corn gets diverted to ethanol and the price goes up. I’m sure it has affected others, too, but it’s hit us pretty hard.”

These challenges have molded Florida’s present aquaculture industry, and mean that successful operations are functioning on unique business models or cater to high-profit, niche markets. One example is found in Escambia County, at the western tip of the panhandle. Here, tilapia farming is gaining a strong foothold, but the operation is unique, to say the least.

It is part of the county’s Corrections Bureau, and has been developed in the Road Prison, a work camp where qualifying inmates can work to earn time off their sentences. The force behind the fish farm is Delton Boswell, a 20-year corrections veteran and sergeant in charge of maintenance and farming at the facility.

“We have a five-acre farm here and grow our own vegetables,” he says. “And the reason for farming tilapia is to help us become more selfsufficient and cut costs. Really, the whole idea is about saving money.”

Boswell says his goal is to make the farm completely self-sufficient, even profitable, and farming tilapia is becoming a big part of that. He got www. guyharveymagazine. com

41

the idea three years ago from another facility in Menifee County, but he

One secret to successful fish farming is synergy. Florida’s Mote Marine

first had to sell it to his superiors. He started with a swimming pool and

Laboratory not only grows sturgeon for meat and caviar, but also uses the

120 fish provided by a local resident. Once he demonstrated he could

waste taken from the farm’s recirculation tanks to grow plants for wetlands

keep fish alive – and growing – he was able to start construction on a

restoration. Photos courtesy of Mote Marine Laboratory.

larger concrete tank. Today, his crew grows out 13,000 fish at a time in a tank that measures 8 feet wide, 4 feet deep, and 90 feet long.

“They go from one gram to one pound in six months,” says Boswell.

“We really chose tilapia because they grow so fast. And, until now, we’ve been buying brood stock, but we just successfully hatched our first batch of brood stock, so that will save us even more money.”

Of course, what also makes the operation work is free labor. Boswell has a crew of 10 inmates that maintain the tanks and feed the fish. And, all the fish that are raised are used as food at the farm, being cleaned and prepared by the kitchen staff. If he had to pay these workers, as in the private sector, the math would not work. However, here it does, and it offsets government expenses, saving taxpayer dollars. Boswell also has an eye toward increased production. He wants to build more tanks, grow from 13,000 fish every six months to 60,000 fish, and begin to sell what the farm does not need. His first customer might be Florida’s state prison system, which is not only interested in buying tilapia to feed inmates, but is eyeing the operation as a potential pilot program and expanding it to their own facilities.

While Boswell’s fish farm meets a unique need in a unique system, other models exist. One is being developed by Mote Marine Lab in Sarasota, and the key is having a higher-priced, high-profit product. Home to a wide range of research initiatives, Mote’s Aquaculture Research Park in eastern Sarasota County is raising and selling sturgeon. It is part of Mote’s Sturgeon Commercial Demonstration Program, which is not only developing the technology and techniques for farming and harvesting Siberian sturgeon as a high-end aquaculture product, it is also seeking to establish Florida as “one of the world centers of sturgeon and caviar production.” Today, it delivers meat and caviar to more than a dozen Florida restaurants and to an equal number of national purveyors in Florida, New York, California, and Washington.

“The program is directly focused on supplying sustainable seafood to consumer markets. It raises freshwater Siberian sturgeon while recycling a large portion of the water, and using wastewater to grow wetland plants.”

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Researchers at Mote’s Aquaculture Research Park are raising and selling sturgeon as part of a commercial demonstration program meant to inspire sturgeon-based aquaculture in Florida. Photos courtesy of Mote Marine Laboratory “The program is directly focused on supplying sustainable seafood to consumer markets,” says Mote’s Haley Rutger, who also notes that the farming process itself is designed to produce minimal waste and maximum

the potential for spreading disease to wild fish; and the chance for genetically altered fish to be released and impact local populations.

While these issues can be managed, the ability to farm saltwater species in

environmental benefit. “It raises freshwater Siberian sturgeon while recycling a

recirculating tanks can drastically mitigate them.Tanks can be set up anywhere,

large portion of the water, and using wastewater to grow wetland plants.”

and do not need to be located on expensive coastal properties. Fish are not

It is this kind of synergistic, multi-faceted approach that Mote

in danger of escaping into the environment. All waste is contained and can

researchers want to see take hold on a widespread level, where

often be recycled for another purpose. Over the last decade, Mote and other

aquaculture becomes increasingly viable on both economic and

research facilities have been working on saltwater systems to raise marine

environmental fronts. A huge part of this has been the refinement of

species. One of the prime candidates for farming is the pompano, a popular

recirculating tank systems, allowing fish farmers to operate without

game fish adored for its succulent meat and attractive to researchers because

producing mass quantities of wastewater that is then discharged into the

it has a high tolerance for crowded conditions and low-salinity water.

environment. The wetland plants grown as part of the process are both

Harbor Branch Oceanographic Institute (HBOI), part of Florida Atlantic

a source of income and environmental renewal, used to help restore

University in Ft. Pierce, has also been at the forefront of pompano research,

damaged wetlands. And, the recirculating tanks themselves give farmers

working for the last 10 years on a USDA Agricultural Research Service-

the ability to locate their operations in nearly any locale, so they are not

sponsored program studying marine fish in low salinity water. Lower salt

restricted to areas with high land prices or higher priced commodities. In

content makes the recirculating systems easier and less costly to manage for

fact, it is the ability to grow fish in tanks that may hold the most promise

inland farms, and studies have shown that pompano can handle salinity

for increasing aquaculture of high-value saltwater species.

rates of 5 to 8 ppm instead of the 30 to 35 ppm found in the ocean.

Typical marine farming operations for finfish involve the use of pens

“The technology is pretty well there,” says Dr. Paul Wills, an associate

or cages along coastal areas, which presents a number of economic and

research professor at HBOI, who notes that significant progress has been

environmental challenges.Whether it’s farming cobia in Belize or kampachi in

made on a number of fronts, such as getting control of the fish’s life cycle

Hawaii, operators must balance a number of issues, including: cost of coastal

to manage breeding and developing sustainable feed. “We’ve discovered the

land or just the expense of operating in an offshore environment; concerns of

pompano can handle a diet with 34% soy-based meal and 25% corn gluten

concentrated amounts of waste and uneaten feed released into open water;

meal, which really reduces the amount of fishmeal required for producing www. guyharveymagazine. com

43

If aquaculture success was measured in a fish’s size, then Virginia Cobia Farms would have little to prove. As it is, they’ve found most of their customers – fine-dining restaurant chefs – prefer smaller specimens of 4-5 lbs. rather than this breeder fish estimated at 60 lbs. Photo courtesy of Virginia Cobia Farms

feed. This is important because that is part of sustainability. We don’t want

D.C. area. Their current production capacity is 300,000 lbs. And plans for

to have to take one kind of fish out of the ocean to support the farming

the next five years could see that reach 5 million pounds.

of another.” The next step, he says, is making the system profitable. “What

Tracy Mitchell, director of business development for the farm, says the

we’ve really been working on for the last few years is how to make the

company picked cobia because it was so fast growing. Additionally, the

system more efficient and reduce the energy needed to run it. We’ve

company’s owners have discovered a way to increase the fish’s tolerance

also started to look at ways to use the nutrient rich water to produce

for low-salinity water by maintaining a particular ratio of ions in the

secondary crops and provide for diversification of the crops.”

tanks, since that is what the fish are sensitive to rather than the salt itself.

The push for profitability is more urgent than ever. The USDA-ARS program funding HBOI’s research program has fallen victim to budget cuts and is in the process of closing down. Dr. Wills says the research

“There’s nothing special in our water,” says Mitchell. “We just constitute our water in a way that keeps this ion ratio where it needs to be.”

In addition to this proprietary technology, their business model seems

will continue for a time, running on a small surplus, but that hope for

to be pulling all the right factors together, allowing them to compete with

continuation will really require developing some public-private partnerships.

cobia being imported from cage farms in Vietnam and Belize. In both cases,

“We don’t want to lose what the public funds have supported, but we

those fish are larger and the meat from Vietnam is frozen.Virginia Cobia

want to get this technology to the industry,” he says. “We’re at the threshold

Farms customers – primarily chefs at high-end restaurants – appreciate

of the industry really getting moving. Losing the funding is going to hinder

the smaller size (4-5 lbs.), better texture, and fresh quality of their local

the development. That is the fiscal reality of where the United States is right

product. Moreover, they are willing to pay for it.

now. But, if the private sector can step up, we can move forward.”

“There are a lot of differences between our fish and their fish,” says

Indeed, even as the researchers at Mote, HBOI, and other facilities are

Mitchell, zeroing in on another significant factor that helps Virginia Farms’

developing these “zero-waste” aquaculture systems and adapting them to

cobia compete. “One is our sustainability rating. We’re the only ones that

marine species, at least one company is getting a foothold in this unique

have a Best Choice rating. We’re producing them in a sustainable way.”

field. Just this year,Virginia Cobia Farms, in Saltville,Virginia, began regular

And that, really, is the key. Farming high-value marine species in a

shipments of cobia raised in their recirculating tanks to their customer

sustainable way holds great promise for the future of aquaculture. Not just

base of high-end restaurants and a few retail outlets in the Washington,

for Virginia Cobia Farms, but for chefs and seafood markets and diners and

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fishermen of all types. The fact that consumers are willing

Harbor Branch Oceanographic Institute is one of the leaders in developing

to pay a premium for fish such as cobia and pompano is a

zero-waste farming techniques for marine fish.Tolerant of low-salinity water and

potential boon for the seafood business. It also raises the

crowded conditions, pompano are a great choice for farming in recirculating

possibility of easing pressure on wild fish stocks. The more

tanks. Photos courtesy of FAU’s Harbor Branch Oceanographic Institute

marine fish that are farmed, the more market demand can be met and the more fish that sportsman love to catch can be left in the sea. Aquaculture has been feeding humans for thousands of years, and today, meets half the global demand for seafood.

In the near future, it promises to feed much more.

history of aquaculture //

FiRsT To FARm

Aquaculture may be part of the solution to the world’s future food supply, but it is anything but new. In fact, it is ancient. Until recently, the most common view was that the Chinese were the first to try their hand at aquaculture beginning around 2400 B.C. When some industrious individuals found carp trapped in small ponds by receding floodwaters, they kept the fish alive on a diet of nymphs and silkworm poop (no kidding) until they were needed for a meal. However, archeologists have more recently discovered that an indigenous tribe in Australia may actually own the title of “First to Farm Fish.” Evidence shows the Gunditjmara people of modern day Victoria, Australia, raised eel – both for food and for export across their region – as early as 6000 B.C. Since that beginning eight millennia ago, aquaculture has made regular appearances on the stage of world history. Not long after the Chinese began raising carp, hieroglyphics depict Egyptians of the middle kingdom period – 2055 to 1650 B.C. – raising fish to supplement their diet. It is also well documented that the Romans developed a sophisticated aquaculture system and that Christian monks then adapted these practices to raise fish in the early monasteries of Central Europe. Even on the other side of the globe, at Alekoko in Hawaii, there are the remains of oceanic fishponds that date to at least 1,000 years ago.

In North America, modern aquaculture began to take hold in the northeast in the early 19th century and included an aquaculture program established at Cornell University as early as 1812. By the Civil War, brook trout were being successfully hatched and grown and a number of hatcheries sprang up in the U.S. and Canada, and shoppers in New York’s famous Fulton Fish Market could buy farm-raised trout.

t e a t S

of

o f o a e d S By fred garth

The one-year anniversary of the Deepwater Horizon oil spill came and went without much fanfare.

The talking heads on TV mentioned it mostly out of obligation.

The follow-up stories were sparse, because there was no significant breaking news to report. Tourism was on the rebound, oil sightings had evaporated, and no major catastrophes had developed.

In fact, from a tourism point of view, the spill had all but been forgotten. This year, Memorial Day weekend along Florida’s beaches gushed with tourists, and Mother Nature came through with three days of perfect weather.

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Scientists probing the deeper waters of the Gulf of Mexico have focused attention on DeSoto Canyon, which lies south of the Florida Panhandle’s western edge.

With its close proximity to the Deepwater Horizon spill, many scientific studies are being done in the area on a wide variety of sea life. Photo courtesy of NOAA As the 2011 summer season kicked off, restaurants reveled in one-

swath of death and destruction. While there was serious damage to the

hour waiting lists and hotel bookings surged, especially when compared to

ecosystem, the food fish such as red snapper, oysters, trout, and their

2010’s rapid downturn.

cousins seem to be clean.

“We were overwhelmed last summer with calls from visitors cancelling

“For now it appears that Florida got lucky,” said Dr. Dean Grubbs of

their vacations,” said Alison Davenport, chairman of the Perdido Key

the Florida State University Coastal and Marine Laboratory. “Researchers

Chamber of Commerce in Northwest Florida. Perdido Key was the first

at the University of North Florida analyzed fish samples we collected,

beach in Florida soiled by oil because it lies farthest to the northwest, all

looking for the presence of enzymes associated with breaking down

the way to the Alabama border.

polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and found no detectable levels

“This summer has been the complete opposite. Rental properties are full, tourists are enjoying our beautiful beaches, and the area has come back strong.”

Along the blindingly white beaches from Panama City, Florida, to Gulf

at this point. That’s not to say that we won’t see something different after another year or two, but for now our results are promising.”

Grubbs has received grants from the Guy Harvey Ocean Foundation and other organizations to study the effects of the spill on sea life. In the

Shores, Alabama, where the oil spill caused economic havoc last year,

spring of 2011, he took his team to the DeSoto Canyon to see what they

summer vacation started with a bang. Roads were jammed with trucks

could find.

and SUVs pulling boats packed with beach umbrellas and funky, inflatable

The DeSoto Canyon is a deep,V-shaped valley that cuts north into the

sea animals. Ice machines were being picked clean, liquor stores jingled like

continental shelf as close as 60 miles to Pensacola, and reaches depths

casinos, and an endless stream of boat traffic created a constant flow of

of 3,000 feet. Fishermen call this area “the nipple” because it has a slight

waves for jet skis to fly over. Oil spill, what oil spill?

resemblance to a female breast. But the main attraction of the nipple is

Yet, even with a surge of optimism, questions remain about what is

the upwelling of nutrient-rich water making this area a prime fishing target,

going on offshore and beneath the surface. Is all of that oil really gone or

specifically for billfish. It is also a place where the oil should have gathered.

are there large deposits waiting to come ashore in the next big summer

When you look at an underwater topographical map, the DeSoto Canyon

storm? (We don’t use the “H” word in Florida.) And, the big question: what

seems tailor-made for catching oil. It’s deep, it’s close to the well head, and

is the status of the health of seafood?

it’s, well…a canyon. But, so far, other than water, the canyon is dry.

Believe it or not, that is a pretty easy question to answer. Extensive

“I fully expected all my equipment to come up covered in oil,” Grubbs

testing by Florida’s Food and Chemical Residue Laboratories has detected

said. “But we didn’t see any evidence of oil in the area and we were within

no harmful contaminants in seafood from Florida waters. By all accounts, it

20 miles of the well head.”

appears that Florida’s seafood is as safe as it has ever been.Yet, across the

In the previous issue of GHM, I reported on Florida’s high-tech,

nation, sales of seafood from the Gulf of Mexico, including Florida, are still

food-testing laboratory at the Department of Agriculture and Consumer

way down.

Services (DACS). DACS is a member of the elite Food Emergency

It’s the old perception-is-reality scenario. It is hard for some people to believe that an oil spill of such magnitude wouldn’t create a massive 48

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Response Network (FERN), which was formed to respond to national food emergencies and the threat of terrorism in foods. This involves the

U.S. Department of Agriculture and the U.S.

future is that PAHs do not have a tendency to

Food and Drug Administration. DACS is also one

bioaccumulate up the food chain. This is mostly

of only eight labs in the U.S. that was selected

because fish have a very high metabolic rate,

for the original FERN program.

which doesn’t give PAHs time to settle in. As a

I was able to spend time with the scientists,

fish gets bigger and eats lots of little fish that

tour the facility in Tallahassee, and review the

have also eaten lots of smaller fish, certain heavy

results of their tests on shellfish, crustaceans,

metals like lead and mercury may bioaccumulate.

and finfish from Pensacola to Jacksonville. What

But oil-spill PAHs are far less likely. So, as we

they found, or didn’t find, were any polycyclic

look years down the road, it’s possible that

aromatic hydrocarbons at levels of concern in

PAHs from the oil spill may not show up later if

the fillets. PAHs are the primary contaminant in

they’re not finding them in the “here and now”

oil spills. However, DACS continues to test and

We can also thank the Gulf Stream’s

continues to give Florida seafood a clean bill of

continuous purging of the Gulf waters. This flow

health.

of clear, Caribbean water is constantly clearing

“Most of our tests registered in the less than detectable levels,” said Dr. Marion Aller,

the way to a cleaner Gulf and pushing any contaminants out of the Gulf basin.

Frequent and intensive lab testing by the State of Florida is part of the commitment to quality seafood.

Does all of this mean that the Gulf of

region needs fish hatcheries, aquaculture farms,

Agriculture. “If a significant amount of oil made it

Mexico is a pristine body of water? Not really.

and other ocean-related industries that create

into the far eastern Gulf, it did not contaminate

It had issues before the spill and it has problems

jobs and bring stability to the region.

the seafood.”

still. But we can be hopeful that the seafood we

deputy commissioner at the Department of

In their report, they recorded 2,808 results for 13 different possible contaminants. More than 99% of the time the results are listed as “<LOD”, which means “less than Level of

The oil spill showed how delicate the

love has not been contaminated. That, my friends,

environmental and economic balance in the

is the best news of all.

Gulf region could be— from tourism to fishing,

Where do we go from here?

both recreational and commercial. However,

BP has literally been pouring money

as long as the resource is managed sustainably

Detection.” “We measure in increments as small

into states that border the Gulf. But as one

and the seafood is safe to eat, then demand for

as ppb, or parts per billion,” Dr. Aller explained.

government official said, he hopes all that money

Gulf seafood will return. The question is, should

“And we’re finding very little—and nothing

creates some significant, long-lasting effects

BP use their resources to help build a growing

anywhere near a level of concern.”

“rather than every waitress in the area getting a

aquaculture industry in Florida and along the

new big screen TV.” Hey, there’s nothing wrong

Gulf Coast? Of course, they should. That, and

with flat screens (and waitresses) but the coastal

new big screen TVs for the rest of us.

Scientists target PAHs first and foremost.

That’s why there are a tremendous number of studies going on now (and that will go on for many years) looking for PAHs in everything from

Mom and Pop seafood shops like Lynn’s Quality Oysters, Inc., in Apalachicola, Florida are seeing business pick

sharks to oysters. There is no way to predict

up as tourists return to the Gulf Coast.

what the future will bring, but the current data is encouraging. Of the more than 200 tissue samples taken from fish houses and processors around the state, including shrimp, lobster, oysters, blue crabs, stone crabs, red snapper, grouper, mahi-mahi, trigger fish, tuna, and others, the results have been the same—no PAHs and no dispersants anywhere near levels of concern.

If those are the results now, the hope is that this trend continues into the future.

One reason some scientists think we will see the trend of clean seafood continue into the www. guyharveymagazine. com

49

TEXT AND PHOTOS by cAPTAiN DAVE LEAR

TRACKING SILVER KINGS

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Ordinary anglers are helping researchers unlock the mysterious habits of tarpon.

Megalops atlanticus is the scientific name for tarpon, based on

spurn a perfectly-placed cast and wink at you as they go by. Also

the Greek word megalops meaning “big eye.” But anglers who

called silver kings and sabalo (or sometimes slang terms like ‘poon

have tussled with these prized game fish might argue that Excitus

and big shiner), tarpon are the inshore equivalent of blue marlin,

maximus is a more appropriate moniker. That’s because tarpon can

with an equally devoted and fanatical group of admirers.

top 200 pounds, yet launch six feet in the air, and do backflips once

Yet, in spite of this big game fish status, even to the point of

hooked. They have tremendous strength and stamina. At times,

having a multi-million dollar impact on the coastal communities

they’ll readily slurp down baits, lures, or flies. At others, they might

throughout their common range, there is still a lot of mystery

Recreational anglers are getting in on the science of conservation by collecting DNA samples from the tarpon they catch and sending them in for analysis.The Floridabased program is now spreading to other states like Georgia and Texas. surrounding tarpon. They’ve been around since the days of Tyrannosaurus rex, but scientists are just now learning more details about their habits and movements. That database is expanding rapidly, thanks to DNA samples taken from fish caught by cooperating anglers. Here is what we do know: Tarpon are in the same family of fish as bonefish, ladyfish, and eels. The ox-eye tarpon, an Indo-Pacific species that only grows to 10 pounds and up to three feet in length, is its closest cousin. Tarpon are found throughout the Gulf of Mexico, Caribbean basin, and along the Atlantic seaboard from Cape Cod to Brazil, and fish have been reported as far north as Nova Scotia. They are also common off the tropical coast of Africa from Angola to Sierra Leone. Tarpon have even been spotted in Irish waters, although that’s a rarity. In recent years, they’ve taken up residence in the Pacific Ocean via the Panama Canal.

Silver kings like warm water, usually the hotter, the better. The preferred temperature range is 78.8 to 82.4 degrees. They can adjust to seasonal fluctuations, but water temperatures dropping below 50 degrees are usually lethal.

Tarpon are also reluctant to give up the throne. A 2001 California study used otoliths, or ear bones, to determine their potential life span.

Radiometric aging measured levels of radium and lead in the otolith growth rings. The oldest fish sampled was a queen at the ripe old age of 78.

Getting a DNA sample is easier when the fish is tired. Allowing the fish to wear

She was more than 6½ feet long.

itself down in a longer fight makes for easier, safer, and more successful handling

It takes up to a decade for tarpon to reach sexual maturity. At that point, the females are typically 50 to 52 inches long while the males are slightly shorter. Scientists do know tarpon are broadcast spawners, where 52

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at the boat.

the females release the eggs and the males swim through, releasing the milt. Spawning starts in mid- to late-April and continues into August.

May and June are the peak months. There is evidence that suggests tarpon can spawn several times per season. Fish that are getting ready will “daisy-chain” or swim in tight circles, nose to tail, or form long strings off the beaches, again nose to tail.

What is not known about tarpon is where and exactly how they congregate to spawn. Or what they do afterwards. Kathy Guindon, an assistant research scientist with the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission for the last 16 years, is trying to find the answers.

“Tarpon spawning groups have never been witnessed or documented on film,” she explains.

“We’re not sure if several males follow a single female or if it’s a one-to-one match. We just don’t know. But we are getting closer to figuring

Say, “Aaahhh.” DNA samples are collected by swabbing the inside of the tarpon’s cheek.

some of this out.”

Surrounded by tiny droplets of oil that

Guindon and her colleagues are searching

started using cheek swabs to identify lost

makes them float in the water to mix with

for clues. Their findings will help guide future

children, we thought, ‘Why not tarpon, too?’”

the milt, tarpon eggs hatch within a couple

tarpon management.

of days. They remain in the oceanic current

“We first used acoustic tags to determine

Plastic bottle caps were the prototype scrapers. Collecting skin tissue from a tarpon’s

for up to 55 more days before coming ashore

the short-term survival rates of fish caught and

cheek provided enough DNA material to

into mangrove and marsh estuaries, where

released,” Guindon says. “Once we determined

code a specific identity. Fin clips verified the

they start to grow. By the time the fry are

that most do survive, then we wanted to see

findings. Abrasive sponge pads supplied by

two inches long, they are developing internal

how many get caught again. We were using

3M replaced the bottle caps and the Tarpon

organs and getting larger. Juvenile tarpon

conventional nylon dart tags for that, but

Genetic Recapture Study took off in 2005, using

spend their formative years in shallow and

advances in DNA research took us to the next

volunteer anglers to help collect DNA samples

near-shore waters. But once they reach

level. With DNA genetic codes, we could identify

from fish they catch.

adulthood, where do they go next? Do they

individual fish. At first, we used scissors to take

remain in the same location or do they

fin clips. But scissors and a big, thrashing fish

DNA in-house at our lab in St. Petersburg for

migrate elsewhere? And if so, do they return?

are not a good combination. When authorities

less than $3. After the angler turns in the sponge,

“The kits cost $1.10 and we process the

we pick out the silver bits, extract the DNA by injecting it into a solution, and then type code it.

TAG, you’RE IT

We can’t use slime—we need to see silver or

With the motto “Any tarpon, anywhere, any size,” all anglers, regardless of locale, are

complete, we look for a gene sequence of 10

encouraged to participate in DNA tagging after enjoying the thrill of catching a silver king. Kits

specific markers. If all those line up and match,

are free and samples can be dropped off at collection sites around Florida or mailed in. There is

we are confident we’re talking about the same

no refrigeration required. Samplers are also eligible for prizes in periodic drawings. To request

tarpon,” Guindon says.

a kit, email: Tarpongenetics@MyFWC.com or visit on the web at: www.myfwc.com/research/ saltwater/tarpon/genetics/

white particles on the sponge. Once coding is

Funding for the project comes from a federal grant for sport fish restoration along with the www. guyharveymagazine. com

53

the boat willingly. They just fight and fight and fight and fight. In a sharkrich environment like Boca Grande, that can be a problem. But it’s all for a good cause.”

Captain Bouncer Smith of Miami Beach helped collect fin clips before transitioning to the DNA sampling. “I’ve been doing every DNA tag I can,” he says. “It’s good for the clients because we wear the fish down so we can tag it. That gives them an extra 20 to 30 minutes for the fight, but the actual samples only take about 10 seconds to collect. My clients are extremely interested in where the fish go and what they do.”

So far, the recaptures show interesting results. For example, tagged juvenile fish are coming back to within one to two miles of where they were initially captured. One was first tagged in the Loxahatchee River and stayed at large for 800 days. It returned and was caught again in the same estuary, yet it had grown in size.Other findings show schools of adult fish moving south to north but also from the north back in a southerly direction. There is mixing of stocks between Charlotte Harbor and Tampa Bay as well.

“Of the 37 recaptures, regardless of how long the fish were at large, Tracking studies have revealed tarpon can travel significant distances. In this case, a

most were caught again within five miles of the original spot. That suggests

fish caught (C) and released by one angler was recovered (R) some 20 miles away

they are staying in the same general area or continue to return to the

just six days later.

same areas each season,” Guindon says. “We do know tarpon cross international borders. What we’re trying to determine is which fish supply

limited number of $50 tags that are sold as a requirement to harvest a

the recreational fishery. If fish are being killed in Mexican waters after they

tarpon in Florida waters.Volunteers put the kits together, contact tackle

migrate west, for example, that could have a major impact on stocks in the

shops for distribution, and arrange for sample pick-ups. Mote Marine

eastern and central Gulf.”

Laboratory in Sarasota is a partner in the project, helping with outreach

The study is rapidly expanding outside the Sunshine State. Last year,

aspects. The DNA tag kits are free and require no refrigeration. Samples

DNA samples were collected from every state in the tarpon’s U.S. range,

can be dropped off at participating tackle shops or mailed in. And, anglers

including four from Virginia and 24 from Texas. Captain Francisco Rosario

and guides quickly embraced the effort.

is enlisting his fellow guides in Puerto Rico to get involved. The Louisiana

“Last season we received 3,431 more samples, including 3,036 from

Department of Wildlife and Fisheries has officially joined the collection

Florida. That’s fantastic,” says Guindon. “And all the samples collected

effort and send their samples to the St. Petersburg lab for coding. Georgia

through 2009 have already been processed. Our recapture rate of tagged

is collecting samples, too.

fish is running at one percent with 37 so far. If that sample holds up, we could end up with more than 30 recaptures from the 2010 season.”

Captain Dave Markett, a veteran guide who targets tarpon every season in Boca Grande Pass near Fort Myers, Florida, has been involved with the project since the beginning. In 2009, he caught the largest tarpon tagged yet, a fish well over 200 pounds.

“I try to get a DNA sample from every tarpon we get to the boat,” he says. “A lot of my clients are excited about it. If the state gets the

“That’s really great, because these fish swim,” Guindon says. The longterm goal is to maintain the current level of sampling or higher for the next 10 years. A study by the University of Miami that will track the shortterm movement of 100 fish using pop-off satellite tags is also underway.

“The two studies will go together to help put all the pieces of the puzzle together,” Guindon continues. “But we still need the cooperation of our volunteer anglers, guides, tournaments, and the sport-fishing community.”

Markett goes one step further. “I would love to see more people

consumers involved with the science, they’ll take ownership and widen

around the world submitting samples. We need to learn all we can about

the database.

this great fish. I challenge the egos of all Florida fishing guides to beat my

“There is a cost, though,” he adds. “You have to tire the fish to

total. And Texas may have bigger deer, but there ain’t a Texas fisherman

get a good sample. I’ve never dealt with any other fish that has such a

alive who can tag more tarpon than me. I’ll bet a bottle of spirits on

compulsion to survive as a tarpon. They never quit. They never come to

that fact.”

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Red Snapper with GulfWild tags.

Photo courtesy of Gulf of Mexico Reef Fish Shareholders’ Alliance 56

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Seafood CeRTaINTY w

I

T

h

The headlines in early May 2011 hooked the attention of many along the Gulf Coast: two scientists reported fish with unexplainable anomalies, including skin injuries, spots, and potentially compromised immune systems. While anglers, scientists, consumers – even journalists – speculated over causes and concerns, at least one group of fishermen remained relatively calm. After all, this was precisely the kind of issue their new GulfWild seafood program was designed to address.

“We call it ‘Seafood with Certainty’ for good reason,” says Buddy Guindon, career commercial fisherman from Galveston, Texas, and one of the architects of GulfWild. “GulfWild is proving effective for our fishermen, for the fishery, and for loyal consumers of Gulf of Mexico seafood.”

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Just two months ago, GulfWild was among the “darling introductions” at the International Boston Seafood Show, the United States’ largest seafood industry event and one of the largest in the world. It met with positive feedback from varied corners of the seafood industry, even getting a plug from celebrity chef and long-time sustainability advocate, Rick Moonen, who said, “This is just what chefs needed. I’d stake my reputation on GulfWild.”

Indeed, GulfWild is designed to meet the concerns of various groups. Food scientists appreciate its high protocols for safety inspections. Retailers like its marketability, and conservation experts have lauded its commitment to innovative catch share management plans.

Tags That Tell the Tale The key to the GulfWild program is a fish-tracking component that allows buyers, whether chefs, wholesalers, or end consumers, to “find my fish.” Each GulfWild fish is marked with a sequentially numbered gill tag just minutes after it is brought on board a fishing vessel. When the catch reaches shore, the tag number is electronically recorded with the unique

Find Your Fish Online

credentials of its fish. That information is then made public via www. myGulfWild.com, a website where wholesalers, retailers, and consumers can enter their unique tag number to confirm the species of their fish, see

The unique tag found on GulfWild seafood gives diners and seafood

where it was caught on an interactive map, and even learn information

buyers the confidence their fish is really what it claims to be –

about the vessel and its captain.

sustainable, fresh and from the Gulf. Tag numbers even allow

Visitors to the website can also learn about the many unique hallmarks

individual fish to be tracked from where it was caught to where it

of the brand, including the conservation practices of GulfWild fishermen.

was bought using the GulfWild website, www.mygulfwild.com.

All GulfWild participants are in tune with the most sustainable and responsible fishing practices in the business and are members of GulfWild’s parent organization, the Gulf of Mexico Reef Fish

Indeed, consumers, retailers, and distributors have grown increasingly

Shareholders’ Alliance. This non-profit association represents Individual

curious – if not concerned – about where their seafood was harvested,

Fishing Quota (IFQ) program fishermen and associated dealers who

by whom, and whether it is safely and responsibly caught. Recent media

work to provide high quality, responsibly-caught seafood on a year-

investigations have highlighted not only fish with physical anomalies, but

round basis.

also fraudulent, domestic labeling schemes that dress up low-value fish

For these conservation-minded pros, the trackable GulfWild tags

as something more, a practice some foreign fish dealers have been doing

act as their seal of sustainability. They also help provide guardianship of

for years. And, of course, questions have persisted about oil, dispersants,

the brand, helping to protect against intentionally mislabeled product,

and other contaminants affecting Gulf seafood since Deepwater Horizon

dishonest purveyors, or less-sustainable products. Because it follows

exploded in early 2010.

a fish from boat to buyer, each tag can assure that everyone in the

Enter GulfWild, which is both a philosophy of seafood harvesting and

distribution chain actually got what he or she paid for along the way. For

a brand that consumers will be able to recognize when they shop. It offers

those who want to know there is actually Gulf grouper in their grouper

consumers, chefs, and other seafood buyers a bona fide system to identify

sandwich, the GulfWild tag provides a concrete answer.

responsibly managed, safety-inspected, authentic Gulf seafood. And, it does

“This is exactly what chefs and diners are demanding. We want

this by providing a transparent system to track individual fish all the way

to know that the Gulf fish we’re buying is authentic, safe, and from

back to its harvesting vessel and actual catch location. If ever a system

a sustainable fishery,” said Las Vegas-based Chef Moonen. “GulfWild

could remove doubt surrounding Gulf seafood, GulfWild is striving to do

provides that assurance.” It is an assurance more consumers have been

just that.

seeking, especially after the Deepwater Horizon tragedy.

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Testing and Transparency After the Deepwater Horizon blowout more than a year ago, NOAA and Gulf states quickly closed large areas to fishing as a precaution against the millions of gallons of Louisiana crude oil that had been released. Ensuing offshore cleanup efforts, utilizing the controversial chemical dispersant Corexit, created additional safety concerns.

According to the manufacturer’s website, Corexit works by bonding to the oil molecules and separating them from water molecules – thus breaking up the oil. In other words, the process works like dishwashing soap that breaks apart oil and water in a kitchen sink. While the EPA has declared the chemicals safe, consumers and scientists continue to question the long-term impact of the chemicals on Gulf waters.

“We knew consumers remained concerned about seafood safety, so we developed a testing program that far exceeds the standards set by federal and state agencies,” said Dr. Julia Gohlke, a nationally respected public health researcher with expertise in children’s health, environmental toxins, and risk assessment. Gohlke currently sits on GulfWild’s board of advisors and helps develop the program’s supplemental seafood safety protocol. It provides comprehensive testing for a wide range of substances. (See sidebar on pg. 60 “What They Are Looking For.”)

Chef Jim Shira of Dewey Destin’s restaurant in Destin, Florida presents GulfWild snapper at an event to promote this unique seafood brand that promises sustainable product from the Gulf of Mexico. Photo by Fred Garth

Wide Base of Support Although newly launched, GulfWild is garnering

Dewey Destin’s Harborside Restaurant in Destin,

early support from both fishermen and fishery

a popular dining destination that has already

experts alike. Still in its pilot phase, GulfWild

included GulfWild grouper and red snapper on

recently signed 11 additional boats from the

its menu. At the event, folks sampled fresh-caught

Tampa, Florida, area (bringing the program

GulfWild grouper and red snapper and enjoyed

total to 30), and signed an eighth expert to its

a cooking demonstration by Chef Moonen. Many

growing board of nationally-recognized seafood,

left the event with a whole GulfWild tagged red

health, and safety advisors. The program has also

snapper and a renewed sense of security about

acquired the support of national organizations

their local seafood. Nelson Mongiovi, marketing

and government agencies, such as Chefs

director for Florida’s Department of Agriculture,

Collaborative, NOAA (the National Oceanic

called GulfWild “incredible stuff” and the “kind of

and Atmospheric Administration), Environmental

progressive technology” the Gulf needs right now.

Defense Fund, the Walton Family Foundation, and the State of Florida, to name just a few.

Chef Rick Moonen of the RM Seafood at the

Florida has recently launched a partnership

Mandalay Bay Resort in Las Vegas has started

between GulfWild and the “Fresh from Florida”

using red snapper again in his sustainable

program of the state’s Department of Agriculture

seafood restaurant.

& Consumer Services. The event was hosted at

For more about the Shareholders’ Alliance, visit www.shareholdersalliance.org.The GulfWild “Track My Fish” feature and other GulfWild information can be found at www.myGulfWild.com.

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By mark thieN Photo by Pat Ford

WhAT ThEy ARE LooKING FoR The GulfWild program employs the internationally-accredited testing lab, Eurofins Central Analytical, to conduct routine testing of the seafood harvested by its fishermen, and its standards far exceed those set by government agencies. Tests are designed to detect the following: PAhs

FDA recommends. To date, early testing shows

in crude oil and in drilling fluids. Some metals

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are

GulfWild fish have PAH levels far below the

are known to bioaccumulate in seafood and

a group of compounds with a wide range of

most conservative levels of concern.

can damage the developing nervous systems of

toxicities found in oil and coal. Government

infants and young children. GulfWild provides

protocols during the oil disaster relied heavily

DISPERSANTS

ongoing testing of metals, and to-date,

on sensory testing of seafood (i.e., the sniff

After the Deepwater Horizon spill, NOAA

GulfWild fish do not show elevated levels of

test), in addition to more sensitive, but less

developed and implemented a new test to

any of these contaminants.

frequent chemical testing for PAHs. Seafood

detect dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate (DOSS), a

was considered safe if PAH levels were below

primary component of two chemical dispersants

FIN AND SKIN ABNoRMALITIES

the levels of concern for human health set by

used in the cleanup effort (Corexit 9500 and

In light of recent claims that Gulf-caught reef fish

the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

9527A). Little is known about the toxicity of

have been found with skin and other physical

in collaboration with the National Oceanic and

dispersants after Deepwater applications, but

anomalies, GulfWild provides a visual inspection

Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and Gulf

to-date, early testing shows GulfWild fish have

of every single fish caught on every boat, each

states. Because recent surveys indicate Gulf

no detectable levels of DOSS.

trip. In the event fishermen might encounter one, the specimen will be immediately collected

residents eat more seafood on average than the FDA estimated from national surveys,

hEAVy METALS

and shipped to our testing facility to undergo

GulfWild adheres to much lower safe levels

Currently, protocols for re-opening Gulf waters

all above-mentioned tests. At the time of this

of PAHs than the federal government – up to

to fishing do not include testing for metals, such

writing, no fish harvested by GulfWild fishermen

30 times more conservative than what the

as mercury, cadmium, and lead, which are found

has shown any such effects.

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By mark thieN Photo by Fred Garth

REAL ACCouNTABILITy Conservation covenants are at the core of the GulfWild program, providing the nuts and bolts for a transparent and effective system.

Having been over-fished for years, some of the Gulf of Mexico’s most prized reef fish have made their way into the warnings of consumer-oriented seafood buying guides. The intent of these guides is to help consumers make more informed decisions with their seafood purchases and influence behavior that will enable more sustainable seas.

However, when it comes to the complexities of its fishery, GulfWild participants say a challenge remains in educating consumers and chefs about the genuine advances fishermen have made as stewards of the Gulf.

“Sometimes those simple, consumer-friendly charts just can’t fully express what’s going on,” says David Krebs, president of the Gulf of Mexico Reef Fish Shareholders’ Alliance and one of the creative forces behind GulfWild.

The Gulf of Mexico grouper fishery is a good example. Some grouper species are listed on consumer guides as “Good,” while other Gulf grouper species are on “Avoid” lists. Wild cards, like “red-listed” Atlanticcaught grouper, introduce more confusion to the equation because they are harvested so close (just on the other side of the state) from where other groupers are deemed okay. No wonder consumers say they are confused!

However, much of this is changing. Under more successful management plans, fish stocks are rebuilding. Gulf-caught black (not gag) and red grouper, which had been red-listed by the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch for years, recently moved into a “good alternative” category. Thanks to more responsible fishing practices in some of the fisheries, some Gulf species have experienced similar improvements and are seeing increases in their numbers.

Among the challenges GulfWild fishermen face is “educating conscientious consumers and chefs about the conservation measures we are undertaking,” Krebs says, “and showing them how these measures are helping species like Gulf gag grouper and Gulf red snapper.”

Krebs points out that Gulf fishermen started operating under the red snapper IFQ catch share program in 2007 to manage the fishery better.

With that IFQ in place, Krebs says, “Gulf red snapper is moving toward being

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a more sustainable one.” Since initial cuts in the Gulf red snapper total allowable catch back in 2007, fish stocks continue to improve and fishermen are seeing annual increases because the scientists and fishery managers

INDIVIDuAL FIShING QuoTA (IFQ) REQuIREMENTS INCLuDES: •

and sell fish; buyers must be authorized IFQ dealers to land, sell,

agree stocks are rebuilding.

and transport

Still, GulfWild participants believe even more can be done in the Gulf of Mexico to help the stocks, and it all begins with accountability for fishermen.

•

Monitoring/enforcement, including fishing call-in/call-out to federal authorities, 24/7 vessel monitoring, random checks by

Through the program’s unique set of conservation covenants, the program is

enforcement officers

providing “above and beyond” leadership to foster the rebuilding of healthy populations of red snapper, groupers, and tilefish.Their innovative set of

Fishermen must hold an active IFQ account to catch, hold, land,

•

Compliance with federal observer program

conservation covenants build on federal regulations and extend beyond them to include best practice standards that have been recommended by other

“ABoVE AND BEyoND” ACCouNTABILITy

industry groups.

GulfWild participants hold themselves to additional levels of stewardship

Specifically, the program commits to helping reduce the amount of nontarget fish thrown back (discards) – the GulfWild protocol calls for fishermen

standards. Specifically, GulfWild’s 100% accountability commitment includes: •

existing body of scientific data, reducing discards, and employing other best

• •

Participating GulfWild vessels will implement the Alliance’s voluntary video monitoring program to ensure compliance with

Also key to GulfWild’s full accountability program is an upcoming, on-

all conservation covenants and fishing regulations

board video monitoring program, to be implemented this summer, that will directly record fishing gear and fish being landed by vessels.This video footage

Participating fishermen will not discard any target fish, except where required by regulations such as minimum size limits

practices, GulfWild participants hope to play a key role in achieving stockrebuilding timelines.

Participating GulfWild vessels will not intentionally discard low value fish or higher value fish to play to market fluctuations

to responsibly count those fish toward their individual quota. By improving the

•

Engaged vessels will participate in Alliance research projects with

will be used in conjunction with discard logbooks to verify the data being

NOAA and other industry and academic partners to establish

reported. GulfWild’s monitoring program participants will be able to provide

better data collection for reef fish stock assessments, including

fishery managers with accurate, transparent views of their fleet. Since the Gulf of Mexico’s commercial fishermen are currently managed by 1-2% observer

discarding and mortality rates All GulfWild participants (fishermen, vessels, owners, fish houses)

coverage, this data is necessary to improve stock assessments and other

also agree to periodic audits by the Alliance Board and independent third

future-focused management efforts. By being the first in the Gulf to implement

parties to verify adherence to the conservation covenants, verification

on-board video monitoring, GulfWild program developers hope to help

requirements, and food safety testing protocols. To maintain the integrity

fishery managers eliminate discard uncertainties.

of the GulfWild program, supply chain partners who wish to participate

Conservation covenants represent the steps participating fishermen are willing to take in pursuit of accountability.The covenants were established by

in the program undergo annual reviews and periodic audits to ensure all GulfWild standards and practices are met.

GulfWild’s parent organization, the Gulf of Mexico Reef Fish Shareholders’ Alliance, along two specific tracks:

Fishermen that sign-on as GulfWild participants agree to a strict set of practices, including video monitoring of their vessels. Photo courtesy of Gulf of Mexico Reef Fish

ExISTING REGuLATIoNS

Shareholders’ Alliance

All GulfWild participants fully agree to comply with all current national and international statutes and regulations governing the capture, landing, reporting, and monitoring of reef fish in the Gulf of Mexico. Failure to do so can result in legal reprimand such as fines, jail, or loss of fishing license as enforced by local, federal, and international statutes.These governances include: •

The Gulf of Mexico Reef Fish Management Plan and Amendments

•

Adherence to science-based quota

•

Gear restrictions and area closures to reduce sea turtle interactions

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Kona Blue Water Farms grows its Kona kampachi fish in open ocean pens off Hawaii, primarily for high-end restaurants and chefs. It’s a prime example of a domestic aquaculture operation that not only meets the highest regulatory standards but also works to develop the best practices for overall sustainability. Photo by Doug Perrine

the Case for eating seafooD from your own BaCkyarD.

By Daryl Carson

Do you know where your shrimp has been? It’s a simple question, but one few seafood eaters ponder when ordering off the menu of their favorite restaurant. If you’re dining anywhere in the U.S., it’s likely the answer is “far, far away,” as in China or Vietnam.The same holds true for all kinds of seafood favorites, like founder, king crab, catfish, tilapia, and more. In fact, information published by NOAA says that 84 percent of the seafood consumed in the U.S. is imported from other countries.

As a result, the U.S. has an annual seafood trade deficit of more than $9 billion.This economic pressure, along with concerns over food safety and the environmental impacts of transporting foods long distances have a number of advocacy groups touting the benefits of choosing domestic over imported seafood.

The economic argument for buying domestic seafood is really not any different than the argument to buy anything else domestic rather than imported: support of the local economy and American producers helps build jobs at home, improves local incomes, helps create additional support industries, generates tax revenue, and generally pumps fuel into the local economic engine.The problem is, that while often patriotic, consumers (you and I) have also proven to be fiercely loyal to the concept of getting the most perceived value for their money.

So, while we would like to support the homefront, stretching a paycheck often takes precedence. As a result, the argument for domestic seafood has become more sophisticated.

One issue gaining prominence in the import vs. domestic debate is the environmental impact of transporting fish halfway around the globe. U.S. consumers are far removed from the most prolific fish-producing countries in Asia.What is the carbon footprint of a serving of shrimp after it’s shipped from Thailand? Is that better or worse than shrimp caught locally? www. guyharveymagazine. com

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seafood being consumed in the U.S. is coming from other countries, then the majority of seafood we eat is not caught or farmed under the guidelines set forth by the National Marine Fisheries Service division or under regulations of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). It means things like catch limits, drug treatments for farmed fish, and even water quality standards that consumers may take for granted in the U.S., do not apply to the way seafood is harvested or grown abroad.

This difference in regulation is easily seen in the issue of food safety. For example, in November 2009, Alabama officials halted the sale of imported Asian catfish from certain shipments after 18 of 40 samples drawn from different batches tested positive for fluoroquinolones, an antibiotic banned for use in food within the United States. And, this is not a limited incident.

According to the FDA’s import refusal database, 47 shipments of catfish and catfish-like species were refused entry at U.S. ports in 2010 for a number of violations. Sixteen of these shipments were “channel catfish” refused for the presence of veterinary drugs banned for use in food within the U.S. Twentyseven shipments of “Asian catfish” species were refused due to banned drugs, false labeling, and the presence of salmonella.The remaining four shipments were non-catfish products that also harbored salmonella.

On one hand, such news is encouraging, because it shows the effectiveness of inspection efforts. On the other, it raises the question about what might be slipping through the safety net. Food and Water Watch noted in a 2008 report Shrimp farmed or caught domestically are subjected to strict regulations aimed

that while seafood shipments grew by 15 percent between 2003 and 2006,

at promoting both food safety and sustainability. Imported products are held

the number of imported fish samples taken for laboratory analysis fell by 25

to similar safety standards, but testing and enforcement are proving difficult,

percent. According to their calculations, less than one in a million pounds of

especially as seafood imports grow. Photo courtesy of USDA

seafood imported into the U.S. is tested by or under the authority of the FDA. This obviously low-rate of sampling has generated both concern and action. In April of this year, the U.S. Government Accountability Office

Questions like these fall into what researchers call “Life Cycle Assessment,”

released a report entitled “Seafood Safety” that calls on the FDA to improve

which looks at everything from environmental impacts of different fishing

its oversight and better leverage its resources in screening imports for drug

and farming techniques to the amount of energy used to produce and ship

residues that are known to be harmful for human consumption.The report

a particular product. (There is a big difference in efficiency between shipping

was a follow-up to a pledge made in 2009 by the FDA and NMFS to make

frozen food via container ship or flying fresh product overnight.) It’s a relatively

improvements in this area.The GAO report concludes the FDA’s program is

new field of study, with much of the recent work focused on methods of study

“limited” and not on par with even what is done by the European Union.

and standardization of terms rather than coming to firm conclusions.

That said, evidence is mounting that it is often much more environmentally

Specifically, it draws attention to the fact that FDA inspections of foreign suppliers and processors mainly involves reviewing records, but not actually

friendly for U.S. consumers to buy local rather than imported foods. Shrimp

visiting farms “to evaluate drug use or the capabilities, competence, and

is a good example. Food and Water Watch, a non-profit consumer advocacy

quality control of laboratories that analyze the seafood.” It noted that “better

group, recommends wild-caught Gulf shrimp for U.S. consumers over

leveraging available resources is critical, especially in places like China, where

imported farmed shrimp from places like China,Vietnam, and Thailand.Their

FDA has inspected 1.5 percent of Chinese seafood processing facilities in the

concern is the environmental and social impact of the farms is seen as quite

last six years.” It also notes that sampling rates of shipments are woefully low.

high, with communities facing issues like water pollution, erosion, and loss of

Between 2006 and 2009, the FDA missed its sampling goals by 30 percent, and

land for other activities.

in 2009 tested just 0.1 percent of all seafood imported for drug residues.

Similarly, wild fisheries in foreign countries may not be well regulated or size and catch limits may not be well enforced. Simply put, if 84 percent of 66

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The bare facts of the GAO report on potential drug residues in imported seafood are eye-opening for the uninitiated, but generally, some caution

may be needed.The counter argument from

is something wrong with ‘fish’ and, in an abundance

importers is often along the lines of “the market

of caution, consumers choose another protein.”

drives the industry,” and “if it’s unsafe, it won’t

The better approach, he says, is for domestic

last,” claiming the self-regulating virtues of a free

producers to concentrate on a positive sell of

market. Certainly, recent salmonella outbreaks or

domestic seafood so consumers get the message

other issues involving regular agriculture products

that it’s a great choice.

have proven that once a product like tomatoes

In that regard, domestically caught or farmed

or bean sprouts gets bad press, no one will buy

seafood has a lot going for it. Not the least of

them and the world supply is voluntarily purged by

which is that it’s subjected to an alphabet-soup

restaurants and grocery stores.

of government regulation, from NOAA and the

There is also a sense of caution by domestic

National Marine Fisheries Service, which monitor

producers in highlighting potential pitfalls of an

fishing regulations, to the FDA, the EPA, the USDA,

imported product, be it from a safety issue or that

and others (along with respective state agencies),

of environmental impacts, because of guilt-by-

which oversee food safety and environmental

association. “For domestic seafood producers or

impacts. Heap on all of this the positive economic

fish farmers to be critical of imported seafood is

effects of supporting domestic industries and

a tough issue because U.S. consumers are, by and

the reduced environmental stress of shipping

large, not really seafood experts,” says Paul Zajicek,

seafood thousands of miles, and the decision to

of the Florida Department of Agriculture and

buy seafood close to home becomes less about

Consumer Services. “So when seafood producers

“dollars per pound” and more about “impact per

or fish farmers are critical of imported seafood, it

pound.” With that view, the shrimp on your fork

usually comes across to the consumer that there

carries a lot of weight.

The argument for buying domestic seafood is both economic—supporting local economies—and environmental—supporting sustainable fishing and farming practices.

Photo courtesy of USDA

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Pure Inspiration

An issue of GHM dedicated to the state of seafood would not be complete without a sampling of talented chefs and the recipes they have created to coax incredible flavor from the fish, shrimp, and shellfish we are all striving to protect and promote. Sustainability never tasted so good.

by GHM STAFF

ExEcuTivE cHEF E. MicHAEl REidT MiaMi, Florida | area 31 www. ar ea31restaurant. c o M Executive Chef E. Michael Reidt is a Massachusetts his culinary magic at Area 31, a restaurant native whose first culinary job was in an omelet

dedicated to sustainable seafood. Perched on the

bar, where he worked as a civil engineering

16th floor of the Kimpton’s Epic Hotel in Miami,

student to pay his college tuition. Something

the restaurant’s moniker hales from the source of

about life in the kitchen held an irresistible

its delectable fare – the U.N.-designated Fishing

attraction, and Reidt soon made his way to the

Area 31 marine waters of the Southeast Atlantic

Culinary Institute of America. Since then, he has

coast, the Gulf of Mexico, the Caribbean Sea, and

led kitchens, opened his own restaurants on

South America’s northeast coast. Reidt’s signature

both U.S. coasts, and been recognized by a slew

ingredient-driven style is showcased in dishes that

of publications, including Esquire, Bon Appétit and

combine fresh produce from local Florida farmers

the New York Times. He also won the National

and the sustainable seafood sourced from the

Restaurant Association’s 2010 Spirit Award. In late restaurant’s namesake waters.

2010, Reidt moved to Miami and began working

Wahoo Crudo wah oo

GinG er c onFi t

1-1/2 Wahoo filets, cut in

2

1” x 1” cubes

Shallots, minced

1 tbsp Olive Oil

1 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil

3 oz

Fresh Ginger, peeled and grated

1

Lemon (juice and zest)

2 tbsp Sugar

2

Blood Oranges, skinned and

¼ cup Orange Juice

cut into segments

¼ cup Water

1 tsp

Coarse Sea Salt

¼ cup Grapefruit Juice

4

Basil Leaves

8

Bamboo Forks (for serving)

Confit: In a small pot, add olive oil and place over medium heat. Add ginger and shallot and allow them to sweat for approximately 3 minutes. Add sugar to mixture and stir until it dissolves. Add water, orange juice, and grapefruit juice to mixture. Let simmer until liquids are almost dry and consistency is similar to a jam. Let cool and store refrigerated in a covered container until ready to serve.

Place Wahoo cubes in a straight line next to each other. Top each cube with a small amount of confit. Separately, combine extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, and zest and drizzle over Wahoo cubes. Garnish each cube of Wahoo with a piece of blood orange and piece of torn basil leaf. Sprinkle with sea salt and place bamboo fork in the center.

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diREcToR oF culinARy, bRiAn WubbEnA truluck’s restaurants | austin, texas www. tr uluc ks . c oM With 11 locations spread across Texas, Florida, and

I came from the mentality of price first, so it was

California, Austin-based Truluck’s is well known for

different for me to see people willfully purchasing

its seafood, steak, and especially the stone crab. In

more expensive ingredients. Over time, I began

fact, the restaurant operates its own fleet of 16

to understand that not only was the quality much

stone crab boats on the Isle of Capri just outside

better, but that this really created a circle of life sort

of Naples, Florida, ensuring both responsible fishing

of situation for the hotel, the animals, community,

and the freshest products for all of its kitchens.

and the suppliers. When I came to Truluck’s, the

“I had worked in a lot of high quality, independent restaurants,” says Brian Wubbena,

owners already had an interest in the craft of crab fishing. It’s nice to know that we aren’t part of the

Truluck’s director of culinary, “but a real gear shifter problem and, in our view, we have a responsibility for me was working in Minnesota at the St. Paul

to serve the very best products that make sense for

Hotel. This hotel had a serious commitment to

the plate, palate, and the planet.”

locally sourced game, pork, beef, and vegetables.

dij on crÈMe Fr aiche 1 oz per portion, 20 portions 2 cups

Crème Fraiche

¾ cup

Dijon Mustard

1 tbsp

Sea Salt

Dipping SauceS for STone crab

dynaMi te sauc e 3 oz per portion, 10 portions 2 cups

Mayonnaise

1 cup

Sour Cream

1 cup

Siracha Hot Sauce

½ cup

Nuoc mam pha Sauce

Mix all ingredients in a mixing bowl until

1 tbsp

Soy Sauce

thoroughly combined. Serve with chilled

¼ cup

Parsley, chopped

stone crab claws.

¼ cup

Chives, chopped

1tbsp

Blackened Seasoning

Mix all ingredients in a mixing bowl until thoroughly combined. Serve with chilled stone crab claws.

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cHEF JiM SHiRA dewey destin seaFood destin, Florida | www. destinseaFood .coM In his post as chef at Dewy Destin Seafood, Jim

fishing grounds and later established a successful

Shira has immersed himself in both local history

commercial fishing operation. Chef Shira, a Destin

and excellent seafood. With two locations,

native himself, received his culinary training in

the restaurant is the result of a family seafood

France, but eventually made his way home to

business that goes back to the very founding of

work with local sustainable seafood caught in the

the city long known as a fishermen’s paradise

Gulf. “We buy seafood right here in Destin,” says

along the Florida Panhandle. Owner Dewey

Shira, “and we get shrimp from Bayou Labatre (in

Destin is the great, great grandson of city “father” nearby Alabama). We clean all our own fish and Leonard Destin, a native of Connecticut who

the shrimp get cleaned every day.”

sailed to the area in 1835 in search of pristine

bruScheTTa oySTerS on The ½ Shell 2-3 dozen

Oysters, fresh shucked

4-5

Roma Tomatoes

2 tbsp

Fresh Minced Garlic

¼ cup

Fresh Basil Chiffonade

2 tsp

Crushed Red Pepper Flakes

2 tbsp

Chives

1 tsp

Course Ground Black Pepper

¼ cup

Feta Cheese (drain water from cheese) Course Ice Cream Salt Sea Salt, to taste

De-seed tomatoes and dice into ¼-inch pieces, and then set on a paper towel to drain. In a small, stainless bowl, add all ingredients except cheese. Salt to taste and gently toss in the feta. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Using a pie pan, cover the bottom with ice cream (rock) salt about 1½” deep, then set oysters in the shell atop of the salt, being careful not the spill the oyster liquor. Using a spoon, top each oyster with the bruschetta mixture. Finish with a sprinkle of breadcrumbs and bake in a pre-heated oven at 450ºF for 8-10 minutes.

www. guyharveymagazine. com

71

ExEcuTivE cHEF billy bAllou the Fish house & atlas oyster house Pensacola, Florida | www. GoodGrits .coM Locals know that The Fish House and Atlas

oil spill, we’re learning that the

Oyster House are must-stop destinations

environmental impact was rivaled

for fresh Gulf seafood in Pensacola. At the

only by the psychological impact,”

helm is Executive Chef Billy Ballou, a local

says Ballou. “The perception that

whose passion for food and tireless work

our beaches and our seafood were

ethic brought him to The Fish House kitchen

unsafe caused panic among some

after an education that included both culinary

fishermen, leading them to harvest

those of us in the seafood business will not

school and travels abroad. Now preparing

some aquatic crops, such as oysters, too

soon forget. Of course, the seafood from the

seafood from the rich waters of the Gulf,

vigorously. Luckily, oysters mature quickly and

Gulf of Mexico is the most-tested and most-

he says the learning never stops. “As we are

are plentiful, but it was a lesson in practicing

inspected seafood in the world and has been

recovering from the events of last year’s

sustainability and responsible harvesting that

proven to be safe.”

Grits à Ya Ya sMoked Gouda cheese Grits

the ya ya

1 quart

Chicken Stock

8 strips

Applewood-smoked Bacon, diced

To prepare the grits, run the chicken stock into

1 cup

Heavy Cream

1 tbsp

Minced Garlic

a thick-bottomed saucepan and turn on high

2 cups

Dixie Lily Grits

1 tbsp

Minced Shallots

until it boils. Mix in the grits and stir thoroughly.

¼ lb

Butter

3 tbsp

Butter

Reduce to a simmer and cook for 40 minutes,

1 can

Creamed Corn (14-16 ounces)

1 lb

Jumbo Shrimp, peeled and deveined

stirring occasionally. Add cream if you need

½ lb

Shredded Smoked Gouda Cheese

1

Portobello Mushroom Cap, sliced

more liquid. Tumble in the butter, drizzle in the

¼ cup

Scallions, diced

rest of the cream, and stir together. Shake in

2 cups

Fresh Spinach, chopped

the shredded cheese and stir until smooth.

2 cups

Heavy Cream

3 cups

Smoked Gouda Cheese Grits

saucepan to medium heat. Add bacon and

White Wine

cook for about 3 minutes, then add garlic

Salt, Pepper, and Hot Sauce to taste

and shallots. Sauté and then add butter and a

While cooking the grits, bring a large

splash of white wine. When the butter is half melted, add the shrimp. When the downsides of the shrimp become white, flip them, and add mushrooms, scallions, and spinach. Sauté for 2 minutes. Remove the shrimp. Pour in heavy cream and let simmer while stirring. When reduced by one-third, add salt, pepper, and hot sauce (to taste). Return shrimp to the sauce and combine. To serve, spoon the sauce and shrimp onto heaping mounds of cheese grits.

72

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Chef Bruno DeluChe Guy Harvey Island GrIll GeorGe Town, Grand C ayman |

www. GuyHarveyGrIll .Com

Guy Harvey’s Island Grill was born when

influence of his grandmother, received

Chef Bruno Deluche met fellow Cayman

classic French training before working

resident Guy Harvey through a mutual

in New York, Atlantic City, and Orlando.

friend. The result was the pairing of two

Eventually finding his way to the Cayman

artists. One English, one French. One who

Islands, he now creates French and West

works in colors, the other in flavors. Both

Indies cuisine as part of menu dedicated

with a passion for the sea. Chef Bruno,

to sustainable seafood, avoiding the use of

whose culinary inspiration came from

overexploited species.

his childhood in central France and the

Pan Sauté Wahoo with Sweet and Sour Cabbage Broth Photo by Justin Uzzell

Pan s au TÉ wa Hoo

so ur C abb aGe broTH

6 oz

Wahoo

1 tbsp

Olive Oil

Heat oil in a frying pan and fry the onion and

2 tbsp

Olive Oil

¸

Onion, chopped

garlic until softened. Add the leek and fry until

Flour

1

Garlic Clove, chopped

softened, then add the vinegar and the honey

Salt and Pepper, to taste

1

Leek, chopped

and simmer for one minute. Add the cabbage

1 tbsp

White Wine Vinegar

and the potato and fry for 2-3 minutes. Add

Prepare wahoo by seasoning with salt and pepper,

1 tbsp

Honey

the stock, bring to the boil, then reduce the

to taste, and then dredging it in flour. Pan sauté

3¸ oz

Cabbage, shredded

heat and simmer for 5-6 minutes, or until the

over low to medium heat in a small amount of

2 oz

Potato, peeled and cut into cubes

potato is cooked through. To serve, pour the

olive oil. Serve with sour cabbage broth.

5 fl oz

Hot Vegetable Stock

broth into a warm bowl.

mIx seafood TImb ale 6 cups

Water

Bring water and salt to a boil in a large

1 tsp

Salt

saucepan over medium-high heat. Add salmon

¸ lb

Salmon

and snapper. Remove from pan with a slotted

½ lb

Yellow Fin Tuna

spoon and plunge them into ice water; drain in

¸ lb

Snapper

a large bowl. Cut the tuna into small cubes and

¼ cup

Fresh Lemon Juice

sprinkle with salt, then mix with French dressing.

3 tbsp

Fresh Flat-leaf Parsley, chopped

Season the snapper and salmon with salt.

3 tbsp

Fresh Chives, chopped

Arrange the seafood into a medium metal bowl

2 tbsp

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

and set aside. In a separate bowl, combine lemon

2

Garlic Cloves, minced

juice, parsley, chives, EVOO and garlic; pour over

Lemon wedges (optional)

seafood and toss gently to combine. Chill for at

Parsley sprigs (optional)

least 1 hour. Garnish with lemon wedges and

French Dressing

parsley sprigs, if desired. www. guyharveymagazine. com

73

ExEcuTivE cHEF JuSTin TiMinERi state oF Florida dePartMent oF aGriculture tallahassee, Florida | www. theFloridacheF. coM

Chef Timineri’s career has often diverged from

sustainable seafood – by creating new recipes,

the norm. While he has spent time cooking in

and participating in educational and trade events.

fine dining establishments, he has also worked

His cooking style leans toward simple, fresh

as an event chef for such clients as NASCAR

ingredients and he insists that cooking be fun.

and the PGA. He has also spent 10 years in

And, as a chef representing the entire Sunshine

the Florida governor’s mansion cooking for

State, his style is understandably diverse, from

state, national, and world dignitaries. Today, he

fine dining to everyday cuisine. He insists one

serves as the executive chef for the State of

of the best parts of his current position is the

Florida Agriculture Department, promoting all

access he has to the incredibly diverse range of

of Florida’s freshest commodities – including

foods Florida has to offer.

Italian Herb Shrimp Puffs italian herb shr iMP PuFFs 24 lg

Florida Shrimp, cooked and peeled

Heat the oven to 350º F. In a medium bowl, toss shrimp with Italian

¼ cup

Prepared Italian Dressing

dressing to coat; set aside. Lightly grease a baking sheet or line with

1 sheet

Frozen Puff Pastry, thawed

parchment paper. Unfold pastry sheet on a lightly floured surface;

Seafood Sauce or Creamy Italian Dressing

cut pastry into 24, 1”x2” strips. Wrap each shrimp in a strip of puff pastry and press the seam to seal. Place on a baking sheet seam-side

Serves 4 (appetizer servings)

down. Bake 10 to 15 minutes until the puff pastry is golden brown.

Serve with favorite seafood sauce or creamy Italian dressing.

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Garlic Shrimp and Fried Green Tomatoes Garli c shriMP

Fried Gree n toM atoes

4-6

Florida Rosemary Sprigs

4

Florida Green Tomatoes

24 lg

Florida Shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails intact

½ cup

All Purpose Flour

¼ cup

Olive Oil

¼ cup

Yellow Cornmeal

4 med

Cloves Florida Garlic, crushed and minced

1

Egg

½ tsp

Red Pepper Flakes

2 tsp

Lemon Zest

Salt and Pepper, to taste

Fresh Florida Parsley, chopped

Oil, for frying

cup 3 tbsp

cup

Milk

Florida Lemon Juice Salt, to taste

Preheat oven to 200º F. Slice unpeeled tomatoes into ½-inch-thick slices.

Mix flour, corn meal, salt, and pepper in a shallow plate. In a small bowl,

Strip leaves off the bottom two-thirds of the rosemary sprigs. Thread

beat egg and milk until combined. Pour oil to a depth of ¼ to ½ inch in a

shrimp onto stem of each sprig. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium

large cast-iron skillet; heat to 375º F. Dip sliced tomatoes into egg mixture

heat about 30 to 45 seconds. Add the garlic and shrimp; sauté over

then dip into flour mixture, coating both sides. In the skillet, fry half of

medium heat 4 to 5 minutes, turning skewers frequently until the shrimp

the coated tomato slices at a time, for 4-6 minutes on each side or until

just turns pink. Add the parsley, lemon juice, and salt; stir well. Remove

brown. Drain on paper towels or a rack. Season to taste with salt and

from the pan and serve immediately with fried green tomatoes.

pepper, and then keep warm in preheated oven until ready to serve. www. guyharveymagazine. com

75

Sustainability is easy to agree to in principle, but coming to terms on fishing quotas, practices, and species health is much more involved. Red snapper presents a classic case where opinions are widely divergent.

buying “sustainable seafood” is an easy choice for many consumers, but few people know the complex world behind the term.

SecretS of SuStainability text anD photos By Captain Dave lear

The ugly specter of buffalo carcasses rotting in the plains sun is the

are tasked with negotiating treaties to manage fisheries in international

most vivid reminder. So are photographs of heaping piles of ducks

waters. Fish and shellfish that reside in state waters, or are farmed

and passenger pigeons killed by market hunters, or dead wading

locally, fall under the jurisdiction of state agencies.

birds stripped of their plumage in the name of fashion. However,

In addition to this web of government oversight to regulate

history doesn’t have to repeat itself. Oftentimes, we do realize the

fish stocks, FishWatch is the NMFS outreach program designed to

error of our ways and make significant amends. The current trend to

help consumers make informed seafood decisions. It says seafood is

embrace sustainable seafood is a prime example of proactive wildlife

sustainable “when the population of that species of fish is managed

management. But, what is sustainable seafood?

in a way that provides for today’s needs without damaging the ability

“A sustainable fishery is one that leaves enough fish in the water

of the species to reproduce and be available for future generations.”

to assure there is enough spawning each year to maintain a high level

It also tells consumers, “If you buy fish managed under a U.S. fishery

of abundance,” says Dr. Russell Nelson, an international fisheries

management plan, you can be assured it meets 10 national standards

consultant based in Florida. “That’s important because it guarantees

that ensure fish stocks are maintained, overfishing is eliminated, and

there are resources around for our children and grandchildren.The

the long-term socioeconomic benefits to the nation are achieved.”

state of Florida does an excellent job of maintaining high stock levels.

However, the decision of whether a particular stock is overfished or

Snook stocks rebounded from dramatic cold kills last year and are on

not is often a matter of great debate.

their way to returning to healthy levels.The federal government has

“Nobody really knows how many fish are out there in the ocean,”

more difficulties achieving this goal, but new laws are going a long way

says Bob Jones, executive director of the Southeastern Fisheries

to force sustainable management.”

Association (SFA) for nearly 50 years.The SFA, a trade group whose

The National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS), a federal agency,

members include all aspects of commercial fishing, from harvesters to

is responsible for managing stocks in federal waters via regional

wholesalers, has been marketing fresh finfish and shellfish since 1965.

management councils.The U.S. Departments of State and Commerce

“Yes, we have stock assessments, trip tickets, dockside surveys, and www. guyharveymagazine. com

77

that much in a season? I’m not sure, but I do know

true after the Deepwater Horizon oil spill in the

there are a lot of variables to consider, like the

Gulf of Mexico last year, and is directly related to

number of pounds caught by recreational anglers

sustainable seafood marketing. Extensive testing by

that’s usually not documented.There were a lot

the Florida Department of Agriculture and other

less boats out fishing last year, too, because of the

agencies has found no post-spill health concerns.

oil spill. It’s not an exact science.” Compounding

Still, a negative impression among consumers has

the problem is limited funding for stock research,

hurt sales of sustainable, wild-caught fish and may

enforcement, and the lengthy delays in getting the

be pushing consumers to make less than ideal

data into the hands of decision-makers.

choices when they buy seafood.

In an effort to help educate consumers and

Jones says general seafood safety is always a

be good corporate stewards, several national

major focus of his association’s members. Strict

grocery and restaurant chains are spending a lot

guidelines apply to where and how the seafood is

of time and money to supply sustainable seafood

harvested, how much ice is used, and core body

products to their customers. Florida-based Publix

temperature limits, in addition to licensing, labeling,

If not clearly labeled, it pays to ask about the

Super Markets, California’s Safeway stores, and

and handling, he explains.That documentation may

product at your favorite seafood counter.

Whole Foods Market are among the many seafood

or may not be readily available with foreign-supplied

Supporting sustainability means staying informed.

sellers that have developed extensive sustainable

products. So, what’s a savvy consumer to do?

fisheries policies. Also, in an effort to make it

“Know your seafood vendor,” Jones

computer modeling, but nobody knows for certain.

easier for consumers to make buying decisions,

recommends.“Know exactly what you’re buying and

Our group feels the authority to determine if a

groups like Greenpeace’s FishWise, the Monterey

how it was processed. Ask questions. The internet

fishery is sustainable rests with the federal and

Bay Aquarium, and the Blue Ocean Institute publish

has all kinds of information, but the views may be

state government agencies. Here in Florida, seafood

lists of sustainable species and often offer seals of

180 degrees opposite depending on the source.”

is well managed and highly regulated by the Fish

approval. But lists and recommendations aren’t

and Wildlife Conservation Commission and the

bullet proof, according to suppliers.

Department of Agriculture.

“Who in the world would not be for

“We try to buy wild fish as much as possible

Of course, the easiest way to know the source of sustainable seafood is to follow the rules and catch it yourself. But if you have a slow day on the

and local boats are our best source,” McCreless

water and end up at the seafood market, doing

sustainable fisheries?” Jones adds. “Those are

explains. “But some of the recommendations

a little homework can go a long way toward

the buzz words of the day. But in order to have

for sustainable fisheries are dated or not totally

encouraging a truly sustainable resource.

sustainable fisheries, you have to let the fish grow

accurate. Chilean sea bass is a prime example.

up and survive.You have to protect spawning areas.

Yes, it was overfished for a while due to piracy,

And you have to have empirical data to support

but it’s so tightly regulated now that I have no

management decisions.”

qualms selling it.The same thing goes for farm-

Visit these sites for more information on

raised foreign products.There were water-quality

sustainable seafood species:

Matt McCreless, vice president and general

on the Web

manager of Southern Seafood in Tallahassee,

problems with some Asian shrimp suppliers, but if

guy harvey ocean foundation

Florida, agrees. Southern Seafood is one of the top

it’s not up to high consumer standards, the market

www.guyharveyoceanfoundation.org

wholesale and retail suppliers in the state’s capital

will collapse and those suppliers will be gone. I

Blue ocean institute

city. “Sustainable fisheries is the ‘catch phrase’

buy Atlantic salmon from Scotland that’s only fed

blueocean.org

everyone wants to use these days and we’re for

natural feed, not steroids and antibiotics. Could we

fresh from florida seafood

it. It’s not in my best interest to buy overfished or

do more to educate our customers? Yes, we could.

fl-seafood.com/availability

depleted stocks or we’d be out of business. But at

But our educated base does a lot of research on its

greenpeace

the same time, I believe in good science, not ‘pop’

own to stay away from questionable products.”

fishwire.org

science, and the research is not always definitive.

In addition to determining the health of fish

monterey Bay aquarium

Last year, the commercial gag grouper quota in the

stocks and evaluating fishing or farming practices,

montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch

Gulf was 1.9 million pounds and now it’s down to

the sustainable seafood debate has also come to

nmfs fishwatch

100,000 pounds for this year. Did the stocks drop

involve the issue of food safety.This is especially

nmfs.noaa.gov/fishwatch

78

www. guyharveymagazine. com

You made your reputation on quality. So did we.

When you started in this industry, your enthusiasm and style set you apart from a crowded field. You didn’t follow the fads, you set the trends. Innovation and quality became your hallmark. Your patrons began sharing the name of “their best-kept secret” with their closest friends, and your reputation grew along with your business.

You’ve earned the admiration, perhaps even the envy, of your peers.

This is what you’ve worked for.

The good name, the loyal following, the reputation for quality. You have no intention of jeopardizing it.

Cheap substitutes? In your creations?

You want no part of that game.

For you, quality matters.

Always has, always will. And that means Florida Gulf seafood. There’s just no substitute for the real deal.

Alligator · Amberjack · Blue Crab · Bluefish · Clams · Flounder · Golden Tilefish · Grouper King Mackerel · Mahi Mahi · Mullet · Oysters · Pompano · Rock Shrimp · Scallops · Sheepshead · Shrimp Snapper · Spanish Mackerel · Spiny Lobster · Stone Crab Claws · Swordfish · Tilapia · Yellowfin Tuna

Florida Gulf seafood is rigorously tested in state food safety laboratories. For information visit MyFloridaGulfSafe.com.

last cast

SUSTAINING HUMAN LIFE If you’ve read this column before, you know that I

strong and the breakers were rolling in so hard they’d

live on Perdido Key, Florida, the northwestern most

carved a three-to-four foot bluff along the shoreline.

island in Florida. PK is tucked between Pensacola

This is a pretty common phenomenon because

and Gulf Shores, Alabama, and has the inauspicious

Florida’s barrier islands are just big, elongated

honor of being the first Florida beach to get oiled by

sandboxes that are constantly shaped by the wind,

the Deepwater Horizon blowout. But that’s another

waves, tides, and kids with plastic buckets.

story I’ve told so many times I’m tired of it.

When we don’t have hurricanes and oil slicks,

Fred Garth For the past 25 years, Fred D.

That evening I noticed two fishermen with the tell-tail PVC rod holders jammed in the sand holding

there’s a lot to love about Perdido Key. It has some

their extra-long surf rods. They were fishing for

of the softest, whitest beaches in the world. It’s so

what I believe is possibly the tastiest fish in the sea

remote there’s never a traffic jam on the two-lane

– pompano. Every morning and evening, especially

blacktop that cuts a straight line through the dunes.

during peak pompano season in the spring, fishermen

We have good restaurants and better bars. The locals

of all races, religions, age, and Facebook status, fish

are laid back and the tourists are tolerable.

the beach. I’d seen these guys before and I knew they

First and foremost, there’s enough fishing to last

were pretty well into their retirement years. One

Garth’s articles have appeared in

several lifetimes. From my house, I can paddle my

of them had even outfitted a walker, like you see in

numerous books, magazines, and

kayak to redfish and speckled trout territory in five

nursing homes, that has the little wheels on the front.

newspapers around the world.

minutes. Or I can walk across the street to the Gulf

It had a seat, rod holders, a tackle box, and a mini

His most recent novel, A Good

of Mexico and cast for bluefish, Spanish mackerel,

cooler for the essentials. I was impressed that he

Day to Live, is available online

pompano, bonito, and even big bull reds. Or I can

trudged through the sand on his pimped-out walker. I

and in select bookstores.

jump in the boat and blast offshore for redfish,

told my wife that I wanted one of those contraptions

(www. agooddaytolive. com)

grouper, king mackerel, mahi-mahi, triggerfish, and

when I was old, gray, and mixing my rum with Ensure.

amberjack. And if I’m really feeling brave, I can ride

She gave me one of those stares. “I’m not kidding,” I

50 or 60 miles out for tuna and billfish. That’s a lot

said. “Never too old to fish, honey.”

of fishing. It’s like I tell my hunter-buddies: it’s not like I’m not opposed to hunting, but with this much

bluff and the guy was working two rods from his

fishing in my backyard, I just don’t have time to shoot

seat. Even if agility was just a distant memory for him,

at animals.

determination was still very much alive. Suddenly one

One evening a few years back, when the sun was

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www. guyharveymagazine. com

The walker-rig was parked at the edge of the

of his rod tips bent over. I watched him grab the rod

setting like a lava lamp in a 1970s dorm room, my

and start reeling. It took a while for him to crank the

wife, our two daughters, and I strolled to the beach

fish ashore, but these guys clearly had a system. When

to take in the scene and shoot a picture or two. I

the fish emerged from the waves, his buddy, who

brought a spinning rod just in case. The surf was

was also quite elderly, slid off the sand bluff, walked

A stellar sunset over Perdido Key, Florida. Photo courtesy of Perdido Key Chamber of Commerce toward the waves, and started dragging the fish up the slope. About the

I was starting to warm up to this hero thing. “Drinks too?” I asked.

time he secured the pompano, a large wave crashed on the beach and

“Even my best bottle of wine,” he said.

knocked him to his knees. I watched him try to crawl toward the bluff

If you know me, you know that I took Paul up on his offer. I’m not

as another wave gushed up the beach. When the water receded he was

one to pass on a free meal. I started going to the beach almost every

sprawled out in the gushy, wet sand. But he still had that pompano. I had

afternoon and I’d find Paul and his buddy fishing there. I’d hang out and

already started jogging in that direction when the man looked up and

shoot the bull while they fished. I was also studying that fishing walker

yelled to me. “Mister, mister,” he said, “help me!”

so I could get some blueprints drawn up. We had some good times and

I quickly jumped off the bluff, grabbed the man under his arm, and pulled him to safety. Of course, I made sure I had the pompano in the other hand. Human life is precious, but dinner is imperative.

I really didn’t feel like a hero or anything special but both of the men were extraordinarily grateful. After thanking me profusely they hit me with the “how can we repay you” question. That was an easy one. “How

they’d float me a pompano every so often when the catching was good.

The next spring came but Paul and his buddy didn’t. I learned that they’d both passed on to fishing heaven. Sadly, Skopelos got caught in the middle of a battle over Paul’s estate and the restaurant closed, too, after 50 successful years.

These days, when spring arrives, I haul my surf rods to the Gulf and

many pompano do you have in the bucket?” I asked. They immediately gave

set up in Paul’s favorite spot. I usually catch a few nice fish for my

me their two biggest. I was happy, my wife was happy, my kids were happy,

family and meditate to the sound of the waves. And I always think

and our two new friends were happy. The world was a beautiful, fishy place.

about two old men who were lifelong friends and lucky enough to

With the incident behind us, we stood there for a few minutes and

share the gift of fishing until they passed away. I’m glad I got to share

chatted. As it turned out, the man I “saved” was none other than Paul

a slice of time with them. And I’m glad I got my free meal and some

Silivos, the owner of Skopelos on the Bay, one of Pensacola’s oldest and

choice pictures of that walker.

finest seafood restaurants. Like Paul, the restaurant had heavy Greek

I hope one day when I’m frail but still determined, I can be dragging

influences, and in its 40-plus years it had served movie stars, dignitaries,

a big pompano out of the surf and yell to a beach comber, “Hey mister,

and politicians, including President Gerald Ford and his wife Betty.

help me.”

“You bring your family to the restaurant,” Paul said, “and everything is

That’s what I call sustainable fishing.

on the house.” www. guyharveymagazine. com

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Guy’s Limited Edition Art Only $300 The seven fabulous paintings displayed here were personally selected by Guy Harvey himself for an exclusive offer to Guy Harvey Magazine readers. These paintings have never been released until now and only 10 copies of each will be reproduced! These limited editions will each be personalized with Guy’s distinctive signature. Be one of only 10 people to own one of these incredible paintings.

The best part, they are only $300 each.

Double Whammy

Hound Dog

16” x 21” - $300

16” x 21” - $300

Squid Row 16” x 21” - $300

Inshore Collage

Bird of Paradise

16” x 24” - $300

16” x 21” - $300

The art is being released for the FIRST TIME EVER to the public. A maximum of only 10 reproductions will be made AND each one will be personally signed by Guy Harvey himself. This is an exclusive offer from Guy Harvey Magazine.

It’s a first-come, first-serve offering, so don’t hesitate. Be one of only 10 people on the entire planet to own the above signed Guy Harvey art!

Tuna Tango 16” x 21” - $300

Bring Guy’s Art Into Your Home To order, call 888-275-2856 or email kat@guyharveymagazine.com.

www.guyharveymagazine.com

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By

New Online!

Learn more about Guy Harvey and the Guy Harvey coastal lifestyle when you visit our new website. Here you’ll find the entire line of Guy Harvey T-shirts and sportswear — men’s, ladies and youth — plus an up-to-date directory that will help you locate the Guy Harvey sportswear dealer nearest you.