The Fresh Taste by Artem Zaytsev

h t s e a r s f t e e h T utes in the Kalining New ro rad Region

anors and countrysid m h g u o e Inns hr t g n i el v a r T

The old songs about the Samland peninsula in the south of the Baltic Sea once called it “the land of deep forests and crystal-clear lakes — Land der dunklen Waelder und kristallґnen Seen...” Times, borders and populations have changed but the nature of the former German province of East Prussia, which is actually part of the Russian Federation the region of Kaliningrad, remained the same, magnificent and diverse.

Please check it out yourself with the help of a new regional guidebook “THE FRESH TASTE”! Our manors and countryside inns provide the maximum aﬃnity to the nature. So where do you want to go? What attracts you more, the western route with its harbour of Baltiysk and the unique amber treasury, a new tourists’ magnet on the Baltic coast, the settlement of Yantarny or the eastern direction towards the ancient Vishtynets lake? Do you think about the southern part with its rich hunting grounds or about the northern part, where plenty of blazed tracks lead you to the Curonian spit? Anyway, your hotels and inns are already waiting! All the homemade pickles are ready, the horses stand saddled and the fishing tackles already unpacked... Now it’s up to you

to turn your countryside stay to an unforgettable experience! You can even prolong the charm of your travel by cooking the local recipes gathered from the local conaisseurs of the regional specialties. The modern Kaliningrad’ farmers have learnt how the legendary Koenigsberg’s Fishfrauen, the fish saleswomen from the market cooked, but they have also successfully adopted the old school methods in the modern times. You should just try! Have a nice journey through the culinary history of the Kaliningrad region!

One of the characteristic features which you can see somewhere in the landscape during the summer days are storks. There are thousands of black storks who nest not only in the fields but also very close to the houses without any respect to the human beings already living there. The birdwatchers say it is an exact sign for a healthy biosphere when there are even storks’ colonies as for example near Ozyorsk. An inquisitive tourist may be lucky to see one of the most touching pictures, a “stork flight school”, as the adult birds teach their small “children” how to fly which is important in winter times! In rural estates you will live side by side with the owners, because the own-

ers normally farm homesteads themselves living in them and serve guests. Therefore the service here is special by definition. You should inquire about what time would be preferable for breakfast, baking a fresh bun and oﬀering a glass of fresh milk that for a city dweller in the second generation can be considered as pure exotics! On the one hand, entertainment in nature is quite simple, walking in the woods, trips to nature reserves (including the unique bogs which represent a miracle in the Kaliningrad region!), seeking for mushrooms and berries, fishing or horseback riding. On the other hand, when there is a chance to even hear the wake forest, singing birds, as they meet

all sorts of creatures, amphibians, see for themselves how to swim moose ... This is a spectacle which cannot be arranged upon request! For this place you need to know the locals and you will be the best conductors. By the way, despite the emphasis on rural character, a modern farm has all the signs of civilization, a shower, a bath, TV, telephone, some places may even oﬀer Wi-Fi. Now it’s just a matter of choosing the route!

Route №1

to the North Svetlogorsk — Zelenogradsk — Pionersk

Commuter trains to the seaside leave from both the South and North railway and hotels. There are actively developing stations. During the sumsmall guesthouses providing their guests mer season a myriad of minibuses would be added, a truly “family” service. so that wherever you are, it takes half an hour. Where to go? A lot of temptations are expecting zou! Being at a relatively small distance from Kaliningrad, Zelenogradsk attracts tourists. It is architecturally less advanced than Svetlogorsk, however some monuments of the Prussian history are Svetlogorsk Tourism and Information Center preserved here being actively recon7-a, Karl-Marx-St. structed. There is an operational Queen tel.: +7 (401-53) 2-20-98, Louise pump room on the promenade, a +7 (401-53) 2-17-63 well-equipped and furnished source of www.tourism.svetlogorsk.org local mineral water “Zelenogradskaya” suitable for everyday use at the table and for the treatment of various diseases. The local resort has developed since 1816 although in 1252 there was a fishing village here. Thanks to the mild climate in Zelenogradsk, treatment is possible any time of the year motels specializing in cardiovascular, gynecological and neurological diseases. Actively in use is the local mud, ozone and solar therapy.

Zelenogradsk Svetlogorsk It is the most famous resort on the Baltic coast of Kaliningrad. Pine trees, sand and sea ... This unique combination of natural treasures in XIX century was praised by the government of East Prussia which gave Raushen, the Prussian name of the town that means “the sound of the surf”, the status of a marine climatic resort. In 1945 the town was occupied by the Soviet army without any resistance so that its unique architecture was almost completely preserved. Today so many charming old houses here are used as guest houses. In addition, there are many specialized sanatoria for both institutions and public agencies, boarding houses

Route №1: to the North

Usadba Manor House Hotel Gurievsk district, Orlovka village telephone: +7 (40-12) 3-88-50 Usually Orlovka reigns almost patriarchal silence. More precisely, there is no city noise although it’s only ten minutes by car from the center of Kaliningrad. But on weekends there are fireworks that Kaliningrad is enviable at the manor house celebrating the most elegant weddings and anniversaries, and the summer of 2009 were treated to Russian Patriarch Cyril!

cuisine”: delicate seasonal soup of sorrel, daily soup, porridge, hazel ... In the basement of the main building there is an impressive wine cellar stock, but on the contrary - the pool. Near the house there are the stables along the the perimeter - a delightful park which has been preserved here since the time when Orlovka was called Nesselbeck, a typical Prussian estate.

The owners themselves define their menu as the “Russian restaurant

The Sisters M. & E. Doennig´ cookbokk wis our guide on the trip through the countryside inns.

Dumplings with cottage cheese — Glumsnudeln T re Th The e iss alw always ay ay ays ys a bit itt off fr fresh esh cre cre eam, am, a am m ho homeme-mad me e-mad ma ad de cot ott ttttage e ch hees eese and d ccu urd d in n a well l -ru ll unni n ng nn g hou ou use, se and ev and every ery ry we w lll min ll minded ded ed d ho house us kee eper k kn nows so some m tas assty y reccipe ipes! es! s Inggred re ien ents: nts: 250 0 g cur curd d or or cott cottage age ge e ch chees eese, ees e, sal sa t, t 50 g sugar, sug ar, 2 egg ar eggs, s 250 g whe s, heat at flour, our, me m lte ed but utter ter, cinn n amo am n, bro own su sug ugarr and an powder dered ed sug sugar. ar.

Pre P reepar parati par at on: ati n: Rub R b th the e curd th throu rou ough gh a siev siev ieve e into a bowl. bow l. Add sa salt, lt, su sugar gar ar an and d eggs eggs gs,, then h miix w l. Pou wel Pourr siﬅ siﬅ ﬅed ed d flour our and d kn knead ead a dry dy do dou o gh. h. Ro oll the do dough ugh pa parti t all ally, y, cut u in ut into to o sma ma all pie pieces ces an and d rroll ol it up u to el elong ong ng gate ted ed “fi finge ngers” rs”. C k the “fi Coo “finge ng rs” nge s” fo forr 10 m minu inutes tes in sal alted a ed d wa water te . Pour me ter m lte lted d butt butt ut er,, br brown rown o sugar sug ar and po p wde w red d su s gar g r over ov verr the coo ooked ked e fingers nge gers, r th han ser s ve e wit w h frui wi ruitt co kta coc t il. l.

Route №1: to the North

Kluecken Manor House Hotel & Club Zelenogradsk district, Klyukvennoye village 9, telephone: +7 906 237-80-23 The beautiful hilly landscapes in a unique location of the spa zone. Shatrov lake, fishing, mushroom hunting, comfortable rest for the whole family. Horseback riding, riding lessons under the guidance of a coach-master of equestrian sport. Home cuisine made of some environmentally friendly rural products. In summer there is an international camp for children here, studying foreign languages with the volunteers from Europe, cooking lessons, orienteering, horse riding.

U Ozera Manor House Hotel

Okhota Guest House

Located in a beautiful place Zelenogradsk district near a lake. A two-storey renovated German-built house, a sauna, a soccer field and a fireplace. The owners are happy to arrange a bicycle trip along the scenic. Organising picnics is at your service (15 people) and just a relaxing holiday in the countryside manor (2 rooms). If you wish, breakfast, lunch and dinner would be provided.

Almost each room is adorned with trophies in “Okhota”, from the lobby to the spacious restaurant. Of course, the menu also meets the flavor, game dishes, meals on open fires enjoy special love for the visitors. From early spring to late autumn you can comfortably sit in the garden tidy “Okhota” where the annual crop of beautiful ripe apples. By the winter of them boil jam!

Gurievsk district, Svobodnoe village, 3, Zelenogradsk district, telephone: Klyukvennoye village 3, telephone: +7 906 231-82-58 +7 (40-12) 56-30-50

Rybalka Guest House Zelenogradsk district, Dorozhny village, telephone: +7 (40-12) 76-09-20 Communicating with nature, fishing, unforgettable evenings by the fire and fireplace, walking in the woods and contacting pets will give you pleasure. The hosts will welcome your assistance in the meadow or in the care of animals, organize walks through the neighborhood. “Wild holiday” lovers can relax here and in their own tents on the estate.

Route №2

to the South Bagrationovsk — Mamonovo Pravdinsk — Zheleznodorozhny

One of the busiest routes of the Kaliningrad region is to the south, to the Polish border. The signs of ancient history and evidence of modernity are at an interval of 40 kilometers: Choose what’s you closer!

good heart of Anna Neander wins hearts: the wedding of the girl with a pastor Johannes Portatius newlyweds hymn written by none other than the famous poet Konigsberg, University professor of poetry “Albertina” Simon Dach! Love the young couples, fidelity vows sung in this wonderful song, which in Germany, Switzerland, Austria as popular as “Ochy Chernye” in Russia. In Lithuania’s Klaipeda the Theater Square is decorated with a monument to Anne of Tharau, and in the Russian part, the Kaliningrad region the very same church is still kept where Anna´s father was working and where that legendary wed-

Vladimirovo village — the cradle of “Anna of Tharau”» One of the most popular German songs “Anna of Tharau” was created due to the daughter of a village priest, the Koenigsberg Cathedral organist and professor of poetry of the University Collection. Anna Neander was born in 1615 in the family of a village priest in the village of Tharau. Aﬅer the early death of his father the girl was brought up by her godfather, a Koenigsberg brewer. The beauty and

Annchen of Tharau pleases me more than life and wealth,doubly Annchen of Tharau power to light the fire of love turned to me. Annchen of Tharau - happiness and pain, my blood, my flesh, sweet and salt (translation by s_k) ding had taken place. This church is a monument of Gothic architecture of XIV century. The legendary heroine of the song died aged 74 in Insterburg now Cherniakhovsk of the Kaliningrad region, where she than was buried.

Route â&#x201E;&#x2013;2: to the South

Pravdinsk Bagrationovsk

UnoďŹ&#x192;cial information database: www.pr-eylau.ru

In the Russian history Eylau was remarkable as the place where in 1807 the combined Russian-Prussian army inflicted the first defeat of Napoleon. At the end of XIX century a monument was established to honor the battle. The reconstruction of the battle is now the main event in February for which the now town of Bagrationovsk attracts thousands of fans of the history of Russia, and a commemorative plaque on a large house on the street in Central recalls that, from 7 to 17 February 1807 the French emperor was quartered here.

Already at the entrance to Pravdinsk a traveler can see the tower from afar Saint-George Orthodox Church, to which the Catholic Cathedral of the XIV century was restored, one of the oldest in East Prussia and the biggest one since the cathedral in Koenigsberg. Friedland was granted the town status in 1335 and became famous during the Napoleonic wars. In 1807 the battle between the Russian-Prussian army and French army took place there. Of interest to historians are not only the church and keep around the medieval quarter, which you can study the history of urban development in Europe.

Route №2: to the South

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The smallest town of the Kaliningrad region with a population of 3 800 founded in 1314 (Ludwigsort), located near the Gulf of Kaliningrad; on its shores there are many small resorts lost in the pine forest. In Ladushkin preserved are some charming old streets and the 800-yearold “Gruenwald” oak, a legend. Draw one’s surroundings: in the village Ushakovo, five kilometers from Ladushkin, you can see the ruins of the Brandenburg castle built in the XIII century and the Church of St. Catherine of XIV century, and in the village. Funny (10 km from Ladushkin) - forburg oldest in the area of the castle Balga.

Route №2: to the South

Balga Tourist Centre and Hotel

Berezka Tourist Centre and Hotel

Veseloye village, telephone: +7 909 778-95-52

Ladushkin, telephone: +7 (401-56) 6-66-87

In addition to accommodation, here you will get so much pleasure as a woodburning sauna. Parking is guarded.

Hostels are one of the “budgetary” options for recreation and certainly enjoy convinced tourists who and soup in the pot to cook, and wash the river cannot complain about the lack of water in a bathroom stall ... But the closeness to nature guaranteed!

Balga Castle Balga Outpost of the Teutonic Order in East Prussia was built in 1239 on the site of the fortress Honede V century. Instead of wooden buildings erected Knights of stone and brick buildings of the convent at first, then walls, towers and forburg. In 1701 the castle Balga, which had lost its defensive significance, was transformed into the Swedish administration in the quarry. At the beginning of XX century there were camping and children’s camps near Balga, and there is a museum in the fortress. Today, there are still the ruins of the castle and forburga church, but every year they are less and less ...

Route №2: to the South

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Mushkino farmstead Bagrationovsk district, oﬃce in Kaliningrad, 17, Repin st, telephone: +7 (40-12) 95-82-09, +7 921 710-39-39 At the foundation of the German estate due to the eﬀorts of local Cooperative there is now standing a three-story guest house for 9 numbers, from the staircase staggered down to the river Zvonkaya, where a sauna, a summer kitchen with fireplace and a pergola are waiting for the guests. Mushkino visitors expect fishing carp and trout, walking in the arboretum, compact sporting and unique tours - eco tour of “cane Venice”

with exit at the ruins of the Teutonic castle Balga, walk to the beaver dams and badger burrows, visiting reindeer breeding, and even meeting dawn in the swamp ... In the evening, guests gather for dinner in the cellars, where the walls are decorated with ancient Prussian axes; the most popular dishes are a roll pheasant and various game delicacies, and local “khrenovukha” (vodka-based drink with honey and horseradish) would be appreciated even by teetotalers. One can hardly find a better place for a romantic and carefree holiday!

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Sisters Doennig´ cookbook

Route №2: to the South

Zheleznodorozhny

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h,, ch, perch ke, per fish (pik us fish ious 600-800 g of vario y sley arrsle c ery, 2-3 carrots, par fish), 1 cel u terfi but a es, 2 av eav y lleav ey 1 or 2 bay sley, parsl pa onion, par t, 1 onio oot, roo ur,, 2 p flour sp tbsp. ter, 2 tb p butte bsp. es, 6 tbs cloves orr 3 clov a frresh eam, r cre lks,, 100 ml culinary egg yolks essh res b . fres tbs o 3 tbsp ce 2 or uice, lemon jui zed lem ueezed quee squ d l. dil

Prepa arration n:

Cu ut the fis fish h in nto o su uiita ittable l piec po ou ece urr th ess and the e le em mon juic ice e over er it. light b it. t Make a broth wit i h th t he e vege gettaables bay ba y le es, s, the eaves es an and d the cl c oves es. s. Pu fish into th fis ut the he br bro otth an a nd d si m co mer un ooked. Th ntil The il hen n re emove th the e fish the th sh an e broth. and d filte h ltter Hea e t the bu uttter in n a paan n, add and egg yol d fl flo ourr ou lk ks, s po ou ur fil filte ltte erre ed broth an crre eam ea m. Se S ason and d on with th sa a lt lt, l mon juic le and some e suga garr. Add d d d i il ill , mix aan nd se x well s rv ve e th he fis fish h with t th his ssaau boi bo oiled po ucce ce an ottato an nd d oes.

Zheleznodorozhny (former Gerdauen) is famous among tourists and local people due to preserved the atmosphere of an ancient town with its narrow stone streets and a castle on the hill, old halftimbered houses of the XIV century in the heart of the village. The title of Gerdauen goes back to the early Middle Ages, when the local hills settled ancient Prussians. According to legend, a certain Prussian named Girdav built his house here, and when the Teutonic Knights came, he was baptized and joined the ranks of the knights. Since 1325, Gerdauen mentioned in the Teutonik summaries, a stone castle, mill and dam, through which the lake was formed, were built by them. The height of the church tower is over 40 meters, it is a fine example of medieval architecture. Perfectly preserved mill built in 1909.

Route №3

to the West Baltiysk — Yantarny Suburban trains depart from South Station in Kaliningrad, on the way you can catch them on the West Station. On the road opens curious species of Kaliningrad and the surrounding area. In addition to buses, extensive network of minibus departing from the accumulation willing, gathering at the entrance to the Kaliningrad Regional Scientific Library, Prospect Mira, 5. The most elegant way to visit Baltiysk, if you agree with the sailors, or enjoy the support of the Maritime Administration which uses the boat for this purpose!

Baltiysk Strictly speaking even the city of Baltiysk (and not Kaliningrad) is the westernmost city in Russia. Its district includes, besides Baltiysk, the city of Primorsk and several rural villages. Coat Pillau was granted in 1725, while there were still at sea sturgeon, and they have become a symbol of the city. In 1991, the city authorities have restored the old coat of arms. Once a major naval base, now Baltiysk is open to Russian and foreign tourists. First of all, lovers of fortifications or military themes come here, as well as those who love holiday away from civilization. The most famous signs - lighthouse of eminent German architect Karl Schinkel, built in 1813, the monuments to Peter I and Elizabeth, and,

Attention! The boarder! Visiting the Kaliningrad region you should mention that the set of routes, that are attractive to tourists, pass through the so-called “border zone” in order to find which, if you do not reside permanently in the Kaliningrad region, requires a special pass. More information about what towns and natural landscapes are included in this zone, as well as where and how is issued a pass for entry, can be obtained from Tourist Information Centre in Kaliningrad, and in travel agencies.

Route №3: to the West (Baltiysk — Yantarny)

The East-Prussian fruit salad In red Ing redien ients: ien ts: s: 1 cup cup up raisin rai aisin si s, 1 cup cup dri r ed figs, gs,, 2 appl apples, es, 2 ora ra ange es, s 2 peac peac a hes hes,, 2 le lemon m s, mon s, 1 tsp. sp pi p ne e nuts, nut s, 2 tsp. tsp. ha hazel zelnut n s, nut s 2 tsp. tsp. sp wa walnu lnuts, lnu t 2 ts, pi eap pin eapple ple ri rings n , slic ngs sliced ed intto smal malll piec piiecces, 2 bana ban ananas nas as,, hone hone ey or or suga ugarr to swee we ten t ,Ń&#x2DC;l culinary ry cre cream. am am.

Preepar P parati at on: ati o Soa o k the e rai ra sin si s in wate at r. Pee P l and and cut cu ap pples, ple s ora orange ngess and and pea peache ch s into sm che mall pi piece ece eces, ces, s cut th the e drie ried d figs figs g . Mix Mix all th the e ingredi ngr g edient ent nts, s s, pou ou ur lemo emon n juic juic u e of 2 le lemon monss over over it i an and d add d crush crrush u ed us e nut u s. Lea Leave ve it for 30 mi m nu nut utes ut es wit i hou houtt mixi mixing. ng Th Then en add ad th he slic slic i ed ana nanas nas ass and nd ba anan n as, mi mix x the the sal salad ad wel w l and and d swe sw w ete eten n with wit h hone hone n y. y Put Pu th the e sala a d into into de desse ssert sse rt cup upss and d po pour ur som ome e cold cold ld liiqui q d crea qu am just just u be efor fore e servin ser ving. g.

Route №3: to the West (Baltiysk — Yantarny)

of course, the Baltic Fleet. Every year here is the Navy ship parade on a Fleet´ Day with the participation of Kaliningrad sailors, which brings together thousands of spectators from all over the field. Aﬅer the show the audience is moving to the endless beaches of Baltiysk, which are famous due to the cleanliness of sand and dense shallow bottom. Objects to pay your attention are: - The St. George’s Cathedral and the Maritime Museum of the Baltic Fleet - “The Swedish fortress”, a complex of defensive structures from the XVII. century, built on the orders of the Swedish King Gustav Adolf II; - The Saint-Adalbert Cross, established near the village of Beregovoe - Tankitino (formerly Tenkitten) in memory of Adalbert the Bishop of Prague, who was a Christian missionary and died there in Tenkitten 997 at the hands of the pagan Prussians, St. Adalbert Wojciech is now considered the holy patron of East Prussia, and now Kaliningrad;

- Ruins of an ancient castle Lochschtedt, built in the XIII century by the Teutonic Knights, - an ancient fort and a cemetery Lunin.

Baltic (Vistula) Spit

freshwater Kaliningrad bay, pine forests, full of berry fields, are surrounding you. Fans of extreme sports can explore the dungeon of the former military base, and street racer are holding their competitions at the airstrip of disused military airfield. To get to the spit, use the ferry from Baltiysk.

The Baltic Spit (also called the Vistula Spit) is known far less than her twin sister, the Curonian Spit. But it is an equally amazing monument of nature, preserved its unspoilt charm. The Polish part has been already mastered by the tourism industry, but the Russian part of Vistula Spit has been a secure facility. On the one hand, that is the reason why the infrastructure on the spit is virtually absent except a small camp site, on the other hand, that´s even why the tourists are given a unique chance to feel like “savages”: you will find the endless beaches here, to the leﬅ the salinity of the Baltic Sea and to the right the

Route №3: to the West (Baltiysk — Yantarny)

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Zolotaya Orkhideya Guest House Baltiysk, village Mechnikovo, 6, Werkhnaya Morskaya st., telephone: +7 (40-12) 53-85-53, +7 (401-45) 2-10-98, +7 909 775-56-90

Dacha Khudozhnika Manor House Hotel Kaliningrad region, Yantarny, 1, Sovietskaya st., apt.6, telephone: +7 (401-53) 3-70-07

Private art gallery. Lessons are painting courses on processing of amber, Located 150 meters from walks on the catamarans the sea, next to the beech on the lake. There will grove. Customer’s service two-, three-bed rooms with be happy to give you all amenities, parking, pic- the opportunity to fully nic spots, cafes, rental cars, relax and get away from bicycles, sports equipment. everyday worries.

V Sosnakh Manor House Hotel Svetly district, Wsmorye, 2, Sosnowaya st., House 2, telephone: +7 (401-53) 2-83-73 Modern equiped estate is located close to the forest, 500 m from the Kaliningrad Bay. A great place for fishing, mushroom picking, recreation on the bay, riding a bicycle in the winter time, skiing and sledding.

Route №4

the Curonian spit 5 000 years ago, winds and currents of the Baltic Sea created a strip of sand separating the fresh and salt water. In the narrowest part of the width of the spit is 800 meters, in the widest 2 kilometers, the total length 98 miles. Since 1987, the Curonian Spit has been a national park included in the UNESCO World Heritage Register in 2000.

guessed how to resist sand, and began to strengthen links with the mass planting of the mountain pine, which has a strong root system. Today Efa is the name of one of the highest (about 60 meters) and beautiful sand dunes, it is installed on an observation platform. A special attraction is the local ornithological station “Fringilla”, one

Information Centre of the Curonian Spit National Park, Lesnoye village, museum, telephone: +7 (401-50) 4-51-19. Booking services, excursions, bicycle rental, etc. Tourist Information Centre Rybachy village, 2, Pobyedy st., telephone: +7 (401-50) 4-13-49 Information Centre of the Curonian Spit National Park Kaliningrad, Sergeeva 2, Room 402, telephone: +7 (40-12) 53-93-06 www.park-kosa.ru

But these dry figures and facts will not be able to convey an indescribable charm inherent in this unique miracle of nature. There is no industry, no major settlements on the Curonian Spit, just the nature which is really reigning here! For a long time the “wandering dunes” have posed a real threat to people, and several settlements had been buried under them. Only in the middle of the XIX century forester Franz Eph

of the first in the world. Curonian Spit is sometimes called the “avian” bridge” where migratory birds stop on the way from north to south. If you are lucky, you can become a witness or even an active part of bird ringing.

Curonian perch salad If you want to make your salad as the curonian fishers have done it many years before, you should follow the recipe: first mix the dressing, then add all the ingredients step by step. Ingredients: 300-400 g any boiled fish, perch or grilled salmon, 2 boiled potatoes, 1 pickled cucumber, 1 onion; 0,5 l sour cream, 1 tsp vinegar, 1 tsp grated horseradish, 1 or 2 tbsp. dill, seasonings and a pinch of sugar

Preparation: Clean and cut the onion, then pour some boiling water over it. Peel the potatoes, clean the cucumber and cut into cubes. Shred the fish into small pieces. Take a large bowl and mix the sour cream with vinegar, add horseradish and dill, taste and season with sugar, salt and pepper. Pour out the water and add the onion to the dressing, mix well. Then add cucumber and potatoes and mix again. Finally add the fish, mix the salad and leave it for a while. Serve with rye bread.

Route №4: the Curonian spit

In the villages Lesnoe, Morskoe and Rybachy a tourist can find any refPostoyaly Dvor Villa uge to meet every taste Altrimo Guest House Inn “Elisa Sarkau” and budget, from luxuriRybachy village, 11, Lesnoye village, Lesnoye village, 2, ous hotels to private Pogranitchnaya st., 11, Lesnaya st., telephone: Naberezhnaya st., rooms with no indoor telephone: +7 (401-50) 4-12-96, national park «Curonian +7 (401-50) 4-11-39, 4-12-90 spit», telephone: plumbing. Mass tour4-11-22 +7 (401-50) 4-52-94, Located 800 meters from ism is not possible due the sea. The interior of the +7 (40-12) 77-17-55. Luxury hotel complex to limitations imposed guest house will surprise oﬀering the highest The old fisherman’s you with a combination prices around. A striking house aﬅer the restoraby the status of the symbol: a model “sailboat”, of rustic comfort of the tion and new log cabins tourist park, so it is un- originally a playground twentieth century. The built in 2007. Extensive restaurant oﬀers dishes of infrastructure for summer likely you will encounter for children and adults the Russian and European vacation: swimming pool, (trampolines, “dry pool” hordes of holidaymakwith balls, ropes and other cuisine. Specialties are playground, information ers to the endless sandy sports equipment for kids, royal ear with pies, grilled stands about the history of sauna - for parents). A very eel. the village Zarkau-forest, beaches. well-organized territory to the summer restaurant, beach volleyball.

bicycle rental.

Route №5

Rominten forest Gvardeysk — Chernyahovsk — Gussev — Nesterov — Rominten forest (Krasnolesye) The longest route, traversing virtually all the Kaliningrad region, it is recommended for tourists keen on history. By the way, you will see the ancient castles of the Teutonic Knights during your travel, you will be able to arrange a halt at the picturesque river bank, and than there is Krasnolesye, the former imperial hunting grounds. Some 200 years ago there was a simple mortal journey booked! Today, the road up to the ruins of a hunting castle since Kaiser’s Germany will take several hours.

Train is the easiest and most reliable form of transport in this direction. Every day from Kaliningrad’s South Station regular trains depart to Moscow and St Petersburg, all of them pass through Chernyakhovsk and Nesterov. In addition, several times a day commuter trains go from the same station. Almost all the international bus routes to/from Belarus and Lithuania pass through Gvardeysk, Cherniakhovsk and Nesterov.

Route №5: Rominten forest

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Gvardeysk

Cherniakhovsk

The first mention of Tapiau appeared in the historical annals in 1258, when the Teutonic Knights took the Prussian settlement, and in 1280 there was already one of the four orders. Throughout its history Tapiau was a small neat town but greatly aﬀected during World War I. World War II was not passing by either. The local attractions include the bridges over the Pregolya and the Deima, town hall, the commandant, as well as the castle which is now a prison.

The reason for the visit to the former Insterburg may be a wish to explore its history, architectural evidence means there are numerous whole blocks in some quarters. Discerning travelers choose to stay at the hotel “Kochar”, built originally from Belgium in a relevant European standard “four stars”. In memory you necessarily need to buy the local brandy named “Insterburg”, made by French technicians from the French raw materials in the local wine and brandy factory Alliance 1892.

Route №5: Rominten forest

Castle of Insterburg Due to the historical club “The Castle of Insterburg”, this castle is best known in the Kaliningrad region as a place where you can become a member of a great presentation, whether the reconstruction of the assault or” walks with the castle witch “. A XIV. century order castle was reconstructed several times, the walls and two towers survived.

Stud Farm Georgenburg 4 km to the north oﬀ Chernyahovsk adjacent to the Teutonic castle of Georgenburg the stud farm of the same name is situated, famous through the annual international tournament. A prewar Insterburg was known as a center of horse breeding, especially in the breeding of autochthonous breeds – Trakehner – though, Georgenburg continues this tradition successfully. Dressage is possible by arrangement. In addition to the stables, the factory complex includes a hotel and a restaurant (by ta nice one, by the way).

Gussev The city of Gusev is one of the jewels of the Kaliningrad region. A large number of architectural and historical monuments remains that Gussev was given the status of “precious heritage”. The most noteworthy of the early twentieth century chapel dedicated to the memory of Russian and German soldiers who died in World War I; church, built in 1752 by settlers from Austria’s Salzburg, a number of administrative buildings. The Gussev people are reasonably proud of the two main symbols of the city. It is a sculpture of a giant elk, once mascot of East Prussia, founded in 1912 and installed in the park on the Pobyedy street. And in 2008, a historical mural “King Frederick meets immigrants from Salzburg” has been completely restored, now it aﬀects through its skill and size (16 by 12 meters), you can see it in the hall of the agricultural college (before the war it housed the men’s gymnasium “Fridrichsschule”).

Tourist and information center of Gussev 2, Zoya-Kosmodemyanskaya st., www.gusev-online.ru

Tourist and information center of Cherniakhovsk 7, Kalinin st., Central station, telephone: +7 9062 17-58-39 www.gusev-online.ru

Route №5: Rominten forest

Chistye Prudy

Vishtynets Lake

Nesterov

In the former German Tolmingkemen, and now the Russian village Chistye Prudy is a memorial museum dedicated to a “father of Lithuanian Literature” Kristijonas Donelaitis. An outstanding poet, priest, educator was born in 1714 near Gumbinnen (now Gussev), studied at the University of Konigsberg, and then until his death he lived and worked in Tolmingkemen. Here he created his most important work, which went down in the annals of Lithuanian culture - the poem “The Seasons”. The Donelaitis-Museum is there since 1979, plenty of exhibitions, meetings, literary readings take place here currently.

Vishtynets sometimes called the “European Baikal” is the deepest, largest and the cleanest lake in the Kaliningrad region. Its area occupies 16 square kilometers, there is water border of Russia and Lithuania. The depth is 52 meters. Born some 90 thousand years ago during the glacial period, Lake Vishtynets is replenished with water from numerous springs and streams. Eel, whitefish, whitefish, turbot are found here. At the Krasnaya River you will find the wild trout. There is an old legend that on the bottom of the lake a church bell lies, which was dropped there by the slack carriers many centuries ago. This bell´s ringing in the night before someone destined to die in the water. Our advice: drink the water of the lake, rather than “fire-water”!

This district center 140 km from Kaliningrad is the last city to Lithuania. Estate Shtallupenen was founded in 1539, and from the XVIII century the city has the rights. From German times in Nesterov preserved church and a water tower (as, indeed, in most small cities in the region). One-third of the area occupied by forests, so there is a real hunting paradise. Even half of the regional milk and wheat is produced here, the, and the products of the local creamery are famous throughout the Kaliningrad region. But the main treasure Nesterovsky area hidden in the woods yet ...

Route №5: Rominten forest

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Olen Guest House Nesterov district, village Chistye Prudy, 37, Centralnaya st., telephone: +7 (401-44) 9-32-99, +7 (40-12) 27-47-59 Near the village, where the guest house is situated, there are large protected forests, beautiful lakes: Vištytis, Lesnoye, Marino and exotic farm of sika deers. In the waters of the Red River there are trout and ide.

Rominten Tourist Centre and Hotel Nesterov district, village Dmitrievka, telephone: +7 921 612-73-18, +7 921 265-40-42 Guest house with comfortable rooms, Russian bath, stables, a park for sports fishing.

Route â&#x201E;&#x2013;5: Rominten forest

Route №5: Rominten forest

Farm household of Sergey Zaets

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Nesterov district, village Ozerki, House 6, telephone: +7 9212 60-01-97 Former home of the Royal Forester, bought as a half-ruin by the spouses Zayets, turned into a guest house with ten comfortable rooms; walking chickens in the yard, goats, grazing in a separate pen hog, causing stormy enthusiasm and curiosity for all, without exception, the visiting children. Indisputably the centre of the manor life is the huge dining-room, where the owner oﬀers an unbelievable tasty soup and three kinds of homemade cheese produced by their own recipes!

Binding of the rest - slow walk to the lakes hidden in the deep of Rominten forest, bicycle trips to the gigantic viaducts over Rominta. For lovers of water recreation - alloys kayaking on Lave, Wegorapa and other rivers of the Kaliningrad region are available.

Braised duck with mushrooms

Route №5: Rominten forest

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Staraya apteka Guesthouse Nesterov district, village Yasnaya Polyana, telephone: +7 (40144) 9-43-89, +7 (40144) 9-34-68 Anyone who is tired of city life and wants to rest in communion with nature, we invite you to spend your vacation in the old pharmacy. Fans of outdoor activities can take a walk in the saddle on the surroundings, courted for the horses, work on the

Severnaya Dolina

farm, go into the woods for mushrooms, berries and medicinal herbs. Chef will Nesterov district, village treat you to culinary delights of German, Austrian Pugachevo, telephone: and Russian cuisine. +7 9210 06-50-45 Your holiday Village is situated on the shores of the beautiful forest lake Maryino, around the lake there is a lot of unusual species, pine forest, remarkable flora and fauna. Fishing, boating and catamaran sailing, swimming in the lake, simply relaxing by the fire are expecting you!

Route №6

New Holland Polessk — Slavsk — Golovkino The district of Polessk is known for its extremely complex water disposal system, part of its territory lies below sea level or at zero level. Therefore, already in the XVII century excavations were conducted, and over the centuries a dense network of canals, dikes and embankments was formed. In addition, there are many rivers with unusually strong currents, and the mouth of Deima hides many small islands. They call this place “New Holland”. The unique ecosystem is as if specially designed for the development of ecological and cultural tourism!

Polessk

Slavsk

The town of Polessk stands in the place where the river empties into the Deima lagoon, and this address is known to every fisherman in Kaliningrad. Less is known that Labiau was once a mighty fortress and a center of Christian pilgrimage. Learn medallic lock can only be very careful approach. However, by the local enthusiasts, he is reborn in one of the premises is now open Museum.

Favorite area for fishermen and hunters until 1945 was called Heinrichswalde, ie Heinrich forests. There are excellent forests, picturesque marshes, meadows and numerous lakes, canals and rivers, which are still good for fishing. For lovers of active recreation equipped 65-kilometer bicycle route. The main decoration of Slavsk still is the old church. The most graceful companion summer is a black stork. In the Kaliningrad region is the largest nesting colony in Europe, black storks. In late July - early August on forest paths can be seen as the adult birds are “putting on the wing” of the younger Stork ... Tourism center Slavsk 15, Sovietskaya st., е-mail: slavsk-tur@mail.ru, telephone: +7 (401-63) 3-17-07.

Herring Salad

The route №6: New Holland

Ing nggred edien iien en nts: s 6 welll so oake aked d herr herr errring g fille llets, t 6 egg ts ts, eggs, s, 30 g fri 300 fried e mea ed meatt debr debr b is orr ham ha , 500 ha 0g boi o led ed d po otatoes tat atoes, oess, 2 so sour ur app apples les,, 2 pi les pickl ckl k ed e ccuc uccumb umbers um umb ers rs,, 2 on onion ion o s, s, 1 cup cup bro broth, th 1 tsp th, sp p musta mus tar ard, d 1/8 l sou d, sour ccrea ream, rea m, 4 tbsp tbsp. m mayo ayonayo nna se nai se, pe p ppe er, r sug gar, viineg negar. a ar.

Prrepar Pre arrati arati a on: P el and Pee and cut ut tth he pota tta atoe a ttoe es into into nto small ssm ma all l cubes. cub es. Ha es es. Hard rdrd d boi dbo o l the he e egg ggs, s cut ut fo ut four ur o ur off it, it, s th set the e res est asside id d . Chop op me m at, a he at herri r n rr rri ng ng, g app pples les,, cucu les ucumbe mbe m bers a and d onion on nion io . Mix all tthe e in ingre gr d gre die ents nt , pour th he bro rot o h over er the h mi he mixtu x re xtu e and d co cool ol for for o ha h lff an an hou h r. r Mea M eanwh while hil ile l mi mix xm mayo ayonna ayo nnaise ise wiith sou so o r cre ream, am, am m mu usta ard d and nd spice sp pice ices, ic s, mix i we w ll. ll Pourr the Pou the h d dre essi ssing ng o ove er the the sal salad sa ad and an mi mix x thorou tho roughl rou gh y, tas taste te e an and nd se s a aso s n, n if nec necese es essary. sar y. Dec De e ora ate wit w h piec ieces ie es of boi boiled l eg led e gs, gs radish rad ish,, lemo ish em n slic slic lices es and he herbs rbs bss. Serv ve it with wit h ccold old d vo v dka d orr be b er! e

Gilge Manor house

Dom lesnika Hotel

Village Matrosovo, 20, Levoberezhnaya st., telephone: +7 (40-12) 39-06-58, +7 (40-12) 27-47-59, +7(40-12) 52-88-66, +7 911 453-25-69

Polessk district, village Sosnovka, telephone: +7 (401-58) 3-32-30, +7 (40-12) 71-08-12, +7 911 457-78-03

Osobennosti russkoy rybalki Guesthouse

Polessk district, village Golovkino, 1-a Naberezhnaya st., telephone: Located in the ecologically +7 906 218-59-82

clean area near the scenic forest. Organization of “Gilge” is an old German business meetings, conferhouse, designed for simulences, festivals, tours, taneous reception of 18 entertainment programs, people. Distinctive features as well as fishing, riding living room with fireplace, on bicycles and motor a Russian sauna heated yachts. with wood, a coﬀee bar in the “Prussian” style, there is a children’s playground (by the way, the children will be cared for by specially trained people), equipped with a dock slip. Home kitchen gleams with local products.

Located in one of the most scenic places in the Kaliningrad region. Here you will enjoy complete freedom from daily cares and purity of unity with the beautiful nature. You’ll find in this womb comfort, coziness and excellent service.

Potato Soup

The route №6: New Holland

ts nts: en ediien Ingred In Ing

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me rm som s warm ings, ring i o rin nion int the on op the ho Ch l . Putt htly igh onion llig e h the th fry nd a n pan pa lard in a terr and ot water h d add ad , a an, p pan a o to int on in baccon the ba s. tes. app. 30 minutes or app k fo cook nd coo an ag and ausage saus a sau erry eler cce es es, at ato p pot d ed d di dic nd ed and le eele pe d pee dd Ad A ste st aste ta to tas eason to o s, sea d onion ed ied frie s fr rots, carrro d ca and err 15 t oth n an a for k ok C Co eaf. b le he bay d the add and ad and on an co baccon n ba g and age sa sausa e sa ve move em Re s. R tes. nute miinu i m it rm nd warm p an up ou so he sou th d nd end len B Bl y ly. e n ne fi fin t i it op ho cho t d ustar us mu hm w th wi am e eam r cr c r ou s sou x Mi n up again. e. t is mixture. he soup with th the son the aso sea and se ce,, oice urr cho u you yo of bs r rbs e he her h ith w wit son aso sea aste, se Tas Ta t nty plen with ple e ve e se ser nd a and e id si sid ins eat in eat me em the p t th pu . y l sley arssle pa ed par c pped of cho

“Forsthouse” Polessk district, village Salesye, telephone: +7 (401-58) 2-31-22 Old-storey villa can accommodate up to 8 guests, bath and home food is guaranteed.

Guest house “Galkina pristan” settlement Malaya Matrosovka +7 (9118) 55-25-53. A true happy fishing ground for fishing lovers. Here you can rent a boat or motorboat.

The route №6: New Holland

Schmandkartoffeln – East Prussian potatoes in sour cream Long upon Long upon a tim time e the the Eas Eastt Prus Prussia s si has be been en cal called led “T “The he Ger German man Co Corn rn Basket Bas ket”. ”. The mo moder derrn farm farmers ers wi w sel ely gat g ather th a that at pas pastt expe expe xperie rience nce,, enri enr ch hh ing g it it wi w th mod modern ern ag agric ricult u ura ult urall tecchno hnolog hnolog gies es.. Even ve th the e pota potatoe toess f m Pole fro o essk sss ar are e famo fa am amo m us mo us th thr h ough ough oug hou out ou ut the wh w ole re regio g n Kali gio alinin nin i gra grad! d! Ing ngred ng reedien red ed dien ents: ent 1 kg pota atoe toes 1 o toes, orr 2 on nion ions, s 1 bunc buncch dill dill lll, 250 250 mll sou urr crea c am, 1 tbsp sp. butt ut er, sa salt, lt pe lt, peppe ppe perrr, pe sug sug ugar, r le lemon mon o .

P pa Pre parrati p ation: on: Bo Boi oill pota pota ot toe to s with wit ith tth th the e sskin k , tth kin hen pe hen peel el and d sli liice int into o thin hin ci c rcl rcles. rc ess Ch es. C op op the h on o ion i an a d fry y wi w th som o e butt om utter. ter. Ad dd cool cool o ed pot p ato att e es es, w m slig war slig ig ghtl ht y, y the then n pour ur so our ur cre eam m ove er it a si and simme mm r for mm mme forr about abo bo out 20 min i ute utes. s Pou s. Pourr wate er i nec if neccess essary es ess a y, seas ary eason ea on n with with salt wit salt lt, pepp lt, pepp epper err and a d lem emon emon n jui juice. c

Goat Yard Manor

Guest house “Pait”

Polessk district, village Selenovo, Lipowaya st., telephone: +7 (401-58) 2-31-22, +7 905 243-79-06

Salvskiy district, settlement Hrustalnoe, tel +7 (4012)45-29-60, +7(911)46-93-373

According to the old stone road, we find ourselves in behalf of the Royal Forester, to 1900. A small pond with a gazebo over the water area for cars, paved the old wooden beams, a collection of peasant weapons, all this creates a unique atmosphere.

“Noble game hunting lovers have known this picturesque place in Eastern Prussia since the 19th century as the Moose valley. Hunting house “Pait” was built during the reign of Kaiser Wilhelm II”.

Guest house “Lesnaya polyana” Slavskiy district, settlement Sosnyaki, 13 tel +7 921 005-10-02, +7 931 601-72-04 “Perfect place for family vacation. You will wake up to birdsong in the morning, have entertaining water and foot walk, go fishing, gather berries and mushrooms in the aﬅernoon. In the evening you can relax by a bonfire or in a real Russian banya”.

The route â&#x201E;&#x2013;6: New Holland

Ministry of industry Kaliningrad region Tourism agency 1, Dmitry-Donskoy-St., Kaliningrad, RUS — 236007 telephone +7 (4012) 59-93-46, telefax +7 (4012) 59-91-39

www.tourismkaliningrad.ru

Pictorica Telephone +7 (4012) 56-34-33

www.pictorica.ru AD — Maxim Popov Design and layout — A. Sagal, M. Popov, A. Selivanov Layout — A. Zaytsev, A. Skorik. Photographers — D. Vishemirsky, A. Zaytsev, E. Molchanov, M. Popov Texts and translation — S. Kolbaneva The authors wish to thank to the tourism department of the Kaliningrad region. The authors wish to asknowledge the great support of Larisa Subina and Dmitry Rogozin during the realization of this project.

© 2009, translate — Department of Tourism of the Ministry of Industry of the Kaliningrad region © 2009, design — «Pictorica». © 2009, photos — D. Vishemirsky, A. Zaytsev, E. Molchanov, M. Popov © 2009, texts — S. Kolbaneva

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