fashions from the runway Byblos
CONTENTS Milano Men’s Fashion 04 08 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
Alessandro Dell’ Acqua Alexander McQueen D&G Dolce and Gabbana Dsquared2 Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro Frankie Morello Giorgio Armani Gucci John Richmond Moschino Neil Barrett Prada Salvatore Ferragamo Vivienne Westwood Andrew Mckenzine Antonio Marras Belstaff Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum Byblos Pign 40th Anniversary Calvin Klein Carlo Pignatelli
Spring /Summer 2009 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95
Costume National Dirk Bikkembergs Enrico Coveri Fendi Gaetano Navarra Jil Sander Laura Biagiotti Les Hommes Missoni Roberto Cavalli Brioni CP Company Denis Simatchev Ermanno Scervino Evisu Gazzarini Gianfranco Ferre Guillano Fuji Haute Iceberg Krizia M F Girbaud Marni Pringle of Scotland Versace Walter Van Beirend
Paris Men’s Fashion
Ready-To-Wear
96 97 98 99 100 102 104 106 112 114 116 118 120 122 124 126 127 128 129 130 131 132
133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 146 147 148 149 150 151
Attachement Blaak Catherine Malandrino Cerruti Comme Des Garcons Damir Doma Dior Homme Dries Van Noten Henrik Vibskov Francesco Smalto Jeroen Van Tuyl John Galliano Louis Vuitton Paul Smith AbtonioMiro Agnes B Ann Demeulemeester Armand Basi Gaspard Yurkievich Givenchy Hermes Jean Paul Gaultier
Junya Watanabe Kenzo Lanvin Miharayasuhiro Number (N)ine Thierry Mugler Ungaro U-NI-TY Valentino Viktor & Rolf Wintle Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurant julius Kilgour Kiminori Morii Kris Van Assche Martin Margiela Masatomo Raf Simons JunJ
S/S
Italy
2009
Alessandro Dell’ Acqua Alessandro del Acqua showed a collection imbued with a sense of exhausted futility. Clothes were patched in places, in a palette of faded shades of sand and earth, and models wore clogs or desert boots. The collection brought to mind clothes that would be worn after an environmental catastrophe, with faded remnants of items that were once worn like a brocade jacket and jeans or a gazar evening jacket.
Alessandro del Acqua 展出一系列充滿末世風情的男裝。模特兒穿上以砂 石色調為主色的補丁衣服以及木屐或沙漠長靴,帶出強烈生態災難劫後餘 生的景象。模特兒身上的刺繡夾克及牛仔褲或晚裝夾克給人褪色殘存之感 覺,令人感覺凝重。
Alexander McQueen Alexander McQueen wanted to convey the “uber glamour” of seventies disco, and did so by producing very tailored clothing to define and emphasize the male form, evoking a fetishishtic feel as clothes neatly hugged the body. Graphics hinted at the skeletal structure, while sheer veiling laid over a jacket or a tee was enticing and alluring, and flashes of flesh could be seen under panels of sheer fabric.
Alexander McQueen 希望以剪裁貼身兼充滿戀物情意結的衣履定義及突 出男性體態,帶出70 年代的士高“終極誘惑”。設計師以圖案點綴纖瘦 結構剪裁服飾,而以透明薄織布料作裝飾的夾克或T-恤令模特兒散發醉人 迷人及誘人魅力。模特兒剛陽身體綫條在透明薄織布料下若隱若現,看得 人血脈奔騰。
D&G The French Riviera was the inspiration for Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce’s spring show, opening with a dapper, doublebreasted white suit with contrasting black lapel and buttons, worn with a polka dot neckerchief tied loosely. Looks were like a modern Cary Grant out of “To Catch a Thief,” with shawl-collared or peak lapel suits in navy and white, updated in the modern fabrications of silk twill, silk cotton, silk jersey and more silk blends that had a glamorous yet subtle sheen. Keeping with the ease and modern, laid back luxury of Dolce and Gabbana has been eschewing, juxtaposing all the deft tailoring were looks like comfy pajama pants worn with a shirt and shawl collar jacket. 10
Stefano Gabbana 及 Domenico Dolce 的春季時裝展靈感來自法國里維埃 拉。首先出場的模特兒身穿整潔綴有鈕扣的黑色翻領雙襟白色套裝配襯結 得鬆鬆的斑點領巾,法式氣氛感染在場每一個人。穿上深藍及白色圍巾式 領口或尖角翻領套裝的模特兒就如電影“捉賊記”男主角 Cary Grant 的 摩登版本。設計師選用絲質斜紋織品、絲棉質織品、絲質平針織物及絲質 混合織品等摩登布料營造低調華貴感。今季,Dolce 及 Gabbana 刻意摒 棄奢華,選擇以悠閒及摩登風格創造出巧手剪裁的舒適長睡褲配恤衫及圍 巾式領口夾克的組合。
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Dolce & Gabbana From the first look of a baby blue striped pinstripe suit with drawstring pant, no shirt but only a scarf neatly tucked under the jackets shawl collar, Dolce and Gabbana set the stage that captured what has become the defining look in menswear for the 21st century — the casual/formal hybrid. Equal parts chic and comfort, the look defines what the modern, sophisticated man is after, and Dolce and Gabbana turned out on point combinations to capture the essence of casual, forgiving, yet sophisticated elegance. A formal white shirt and bowtie worn buttoned up and tucked into drawstring striped pants; a silk denim tuxedo with drawstring pant and opened toe alligator flats; double-breasted pinstripe suits with peaked shoulders, cut loose and worn open, even the fitted black formal tuxes were cut with such deftness they eschewed such an essence of ease. 12
首先出場的模特兒以粉藍色條子細條紋套裝 配襯束帶褲子,在沒有穿 著恤衫的情況下在夾克圍巾式領口下露出整齊的圍巾,展示Dolce & Gabbana 21 世紀便裝禮服雙混合男裝新風格。Dolce & Gabbana 服飾集 時髦及舒適於一身,最適合摩登高尚男士穿著。Dolce & Gabbana 精於捕 捉輕便中帶時髦精緻的元素。鈕扣全扣上的禮服白恤衫配以蝴蝶領帶及束 帶條子長褲、絲質牛仔晚禮服配襯束帶褲子及露趾鱷魚皮鞋、不扣鈕窄膊 鬆身雙襟細條紋套裝、精心剪裁黑色晚禮服全都是都市型男悠閒之選。
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Dsquared2 As the Italian fashion industry has turned diversity into a cause, as evidenced in the new issue of Vogue Italia being cover to cover black models, Dan and Dean Caten followed stride, running a show back to front with a majority of black models and break dancers for effect. Inspired by “Back in the Days,” NY artist Jamel Shabazz’ s photographic history of hip-hop, the looks shown turned out were a re-appropriation of what was re-appropriated by the original hiphoppers who adopted the tennis club and golf styles as their own. Run DMC’s Cazals, argyle socks, gym shorts, polo shirts, trackies, and gold chains were all re-done in exact detail, down to the original fit, and meshed well with the sporty style that is part of Dsquared’s calling card. 14
意大利時裝工業又有新搞作!新一期 Vogue Italia 以黑人模特兒作封面。 Dsquared 時裝設計師Dan 及 Dean Caten 立刻跟風,選用大批黑人模特 兒及霹靂舞蹈員演繹其最新設計。設計師靈感來自“Back in the Days” 紐約藝術家 Jamel Shabazz 的黑人街頭舞蹈歷史照片,並重新演繹黑人 街頭舞蹈元老所採納的網球會及哥爾夫球員風格。粗邊古典眼鏡、菱形圖 案短襪、運動短褲, 馬球衫 恤衫、運動衣及金鏈全都跟足原創設計精細, 與Dsquared 舉世知名的跳躍運動風格完全融合。
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Emporio Armani Emporio Armani produced a show that effused comfort and relaxed chicness while never lacking in Italian style. Emporio allows for more casual glamour and playfulness, and the opening look was a doublebreasted gray suit jacket with barely visible herringbone printed lapels worn with mismatched pinstriped pants for an effortlessly comfortable yet formal look. He continued to show a version of the three piece suit with vests that buttoned at the breastbone and suits that were cut with extra slack. Jackets with motorcycle collars and decorative vertical zippers offered an Apocalypto-feel while other suits were shown cut assymetrically and worn with cowl-necked gauzy shirts. A midnight blue silk dupioni with a sheen appeared throughout the show as jackets, pants, and decoratively on lapels. Looks were purposefully mismatched in different fabrics and slightly different colors like a dar.
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Emporio Armani 展出意大利風格的舒適時髦服飾。Emporio 把悠閒奢華 風格與玩味結合:首先出場的模特兒身穿綴有人字形暗花領口的雙襟灰色 套裝夾克配以不協調的細條紋長褲,流露不經意的舒適整齊的風采。設計 師展出一件背心在胸口位置扣鈕的三件頭套裝及鬆身剪裁的套裝,有性格 的您必定喜歡。綴有型格設計領口及裝飾用垂直拉鏈夾克帶出文明的崩毀 與重生的感覺。其他不對稱剪裁套裝與大翻領薄紗恤衫的配襯一流。 設 計師利用大量富有光澤的天青藍色雙宮綢創造夾克、長褲及裝飾衣履領 口。設計師故意以不同布料及不同顔色創造出風格獨特的男裝配搭。
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Ermenegildo Zegna Known for their innovation in fabrications, Ermenegildo Zegna sidestepped the pajama-dressing trend of the season, instead offering their customer another way to keep cool in warm weather — “high performance cool effect” wool, a new fabric innovation said to reflect 80 percent of direct sunlight. Using a palette of sand, beige, browns, and light pinks, the Zegna man always looks polished in any of the precisely cut pieces, be it a sharp bomber jacket, long-sleeved knit polo, or a double-breasted suit jacket with peak-lapels.
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Ermenegildo Zegna 以選用創新衣料見稱。設計師偏離今季熱門睡衣設計 潮流,為品牌支持者織造出可以障隔80%直接陽光的創新高效能冬暖夏涼 衣料。Zegna 模特兒不論身穿砂黃色、灰褐色、棕色或淺粉紅色精心剪裁 的時髦軍用外套、長袖針織馬球衫或綴有尖角領口的雙襟套裝夾克也英氣 逼人。
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Etro Loose, sexy, relaxed: all words describing Etro’s spring show which finally and whole-heartedly embraced the vibrancy and celebratory spirit of Kean Etro’s famously bright amalgamation of patterns and colors. In seasons past he’s juxtaposed more tailoring and suiting to offset the seeming explosion of loud patterns and prints, while this season in keeping with the more relaxed trend in menswear of pajama dressing and a looser cut, he showed much more unrestrained clothes that looked just right and fitting for the season. Opening with a sexy bucaneer look of a orange paisley robe-like, knee length jacket worn open to reveal a bare chest, a Burmese inspired “longyi” or sarong, with a multicolored sash, oxford shoes and a wide-brimmed straw hat, Etro set the pace for a tropical romp, as did the jungle background of ferns and fronds he used as a backdrop. Silk shirts with no buttons revealed a whole lot of skin, cargo pants replaced suit trousers, and shiny silk and crumpled linen were aplenty. 20
鬆身、性感、悠閒就是我們用以形容 Etro 春季時裝展的形容詞。Kean Etro以其出色的圖案及顔色組合展現其活潑及快樂精髓。在過往幾季,設 計師利用精致剪裁技巧及衣料中和炫耀的圖案及印花,而設計師在本季採 納男裝睡衣及鬆身剪裁悠閒時尚趨勢,展出適合本季穿著的飄逸衣物。 第一位出場的模特兒作性感加勒比海盜打扮,穿上一件橙色渦紋圖案開胸 長袍式及膝夾克配以緬甸式沙龍及 彩虹色調腰帶、牛津鞋及濶邊草帽, 活力澎拜。Etro以羊齒植物及蕨類植物作原始森林背景,把天橋幻化成熱 帶喧鬧之地。模特兒穿上沒有鈕扣的絲質恤衫露出粗壯的身軀,看得人熱 血沸騰。設計師以休閒長褲代替套裝長褲營造悠閒氣氛。閃亮絲質及皺皺 的亞麻布是設計師最愛選用的衣料。
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Frankie Morello Frankie Morello’s sporty and sartorial collection featured bright pops of color in aqua, yellow, and orange, and had a bold motif of stripes which appeared wide on a V neck cardigan, or in decorative single stripes on hooded jackets and tops. Furry hats with animal ears playfully came down the runway with some models also carrying footballs in keeping with the sports theme.
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Frankie Morello 的男裝運動輕便服飾系列以水綠色、黃色及橙色作主色 調。設計師以大膽條子圖案點綴 V 領開胸羊毛衫或以單一條子點綴有帽夾 克及上衣,玩味十足。戴上釘上動物耳朵的毛毛帽子的模特兒在天橋活躍 游走,而手持足球的模特兒完全貼合品牌今季運動主題。
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Giorgio Armani GIorgio Armani showed a collection inspired Yul Brynner in “The King and I,” with a collection done in oriental shades of lilca, orange, and imperial purple. There were chenille cardigans, jacquards, leather that were washed or textured and Armani’s interpretation of the pajama trend in a pajama top paired with cropped pants.
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GIorgio Armani 展出靈感來自“國王與我”男主角尤伯連納的服裝系列。 設計師選用紫水晶色、橙色及深紫色等東方色彩營造東方神秘靡麗風格。 鬆絨線織開胸羊毛衫、提花織品、皮革衣料全都被洗水或全新構造以表達 品牌今季風格。Armani以睡衣配襯短褲演繹今季最時尚的睡衣風格。
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fashions from the runway Walter Van Beirendon
CONTENTS Milano Men’s Fashion 04 06 08 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44
Alessandro Dell’ Acqua Andrew McKenzie Alexander McQueen Belstaff Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum Byblos Carlo Pignatelli Costume National CP Company D&G Diesel Dirk Bikkembergs Dolce and Gabbana Dsquared2 Emporio Armani Enrico Coveri Ermanno Scervino Ermenegildo Zegna Etro Frankie Morello
Fall / Winter 2009 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86
Gaetano Navarra Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Giuliano Fujiwara Gucci Iceberg Jil Sander John Richmond John Varvatos Les Hommes Missoni Moncler Moschino Neil Barrett Prada Pringle of Scotland Roberto Cavalli Salvatore Ferragamo Trussardi Vivienne Westwood Versace
Paris Men’s Fashion
Ready-To-Wear
88 89 90 91 92 94 96 98 99 100 102 104 106 108 110 112 114 116 118 120 122
123 124 126 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 138 140 142 148 160
Ann Demeulemeester Blaak Cerruti Dunhill Comme Des Garçons Dior Dries Van Noten Gaspard Yurkievich Givenchy Hermès Hugo Jean Paul Gaultier Jeroen Van Tuyl John Galliano Junya Watanabe Kenzo Lanvin Louis Vuitton Masatomo Miharayasuhiro Number Nine
Paul Smith Petar Petrov Raf Simons Romain Kremer Thierry Mugler Tillman Lauterbach Walter Van Beirendon Woo Youngmi Yohji Yamamoto Coats Knitwear Outerwear Suits Shoes & Bags fall 2009 Order Form
Italy
A/W 2009
Alessandro Dell’ Acqua The first part of the Alessandro Dell’Acqua Fall 2009 collection consisted of classic camel-colored trench coats and jackets that elongated the silhouettes. Thin sweaters and cardigans cut below the hipline while cuffed trousers exposed nude socks underneath. Amongst the throng of rich cashmeres and knits, a pair of gold sequined pants and shoes to match were thrown into the mix for an unexpected turn. Alessandro Dell’Acqua 2009 秋季時裝展上半部展出能夠修長身形的典 駱駝色軍用大衣及夾克。薄薄的毛衣、長及臀部的外套、露出肉色襪子 的翻邊褲子都是經過設計師精心剪裁設計。除了展出一系列華麗的開士 米羊毛織品及針織服飾外,設計師以金色釘珠片褲子配襯同系列鞋子的 組合為時裝展帶來意想不到的高潮。
Andrew McKenzie With the young modern generation in mind, Andrew McKenzie designed a collection that seems very much of the past. He wanted to imbue a sense of history in the clothes, hence the fitted waistcoats and generously cut high-waisted trousers. The referential notion was also seen in the oversized ties, fingerless gloves, leather boots, and large duffels. Andrew McKenzie 為年輕摩登的男士設計一系列懷舊服飾。設計師希望 把歷史融入其設計,因此,為我們創造貼身剪裁西裝背心及鬆身高腰褲 子、超大領帶、無指手套、皮革靴子及手提大袋。
Alexander McQueen Victorian streetlamps lined the path for Alexander McQueen’s toughlooking models with smoldering stares and canes in hand. The brute scenario of aristocracy and fantasy was laid out by slim fitted trousers, a double-breasted coat with a full fur collar, and even metal breast plates. It was a provocative men’s collection that was typical McQueen and still remarkably appealing. Alexander McQueen以維多利亞式街燈為手持拐仗眼神淩厲外形粗礦的 模特兒引路。設計師以窄身剪裁褲子、綴有大毛領及金屬胸甲的對襟大 衣營造貴族奢華及幻想交錯的殘暴空間。今季的時裝系列充滿McQueen 一貫的挑逗性,卻不失吸引力。
Belstaff Leather was of the essence at the Belstaff Fall 2009 collection, mainly jackets of all styles-biker, bomber, and racing. The sturdy and slick material supplied a moto-chic vibe to the collection without taking it further than the casual coolness that it was. Quilted boots and lace-up shoes were the must-have pieces, even more so than the velvet pants in decadent colors such as eggplant and navy. 皮革是Belstaff 2009秋季系列的神緒。不同款式的夾克:電單車手夾克、 飛機師夾克、賽車手夾克令時裝展充滿剛陽氣息。堅固耐用及光滑的物 料為系列帶來駕駛者獨有的瀟灑動感及保留漫不經心的冷靜沈著思維。 襯墊絎縫的靴子及綁帶鞋是金季潮流之選; 而以深紫色及深藍色等頹廢 色調為主色的絲絨褲子也是很受歡迎的服飾。
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Bottega Veneta After sending out three plaid outerwear pieces, designer Tomas Maier showed an austere Bottega Veneta collection in a color palette of truffle brown and ash gray. Basing the theme around the comfort and attitude of the cardigan sweater, Maier strayed from excess and instead went for timeless wool coats, cashmere turtleneck sweaters, and envelope briefcases too classic to ignore. 在展出三套經典彩格呢衣飾後,設計師Tomas Maier以深棕色及淺灰色服 飾展示Bottega Veneta簡樸的一面。品牌設計主題圍繞針織外套的舒適及 不經意的態度,Maier摒棄多餘的設計風格,以經典的羊毛大衣、樽領開 士米羊毛衣及皮質公事包營造實用格調。
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Burberry Prorsum Christopher Bailey drew inspiration from Bill Brandt’s photography of British society, which was evident in the poetic caps and the contrasted black and white looks. Romanic elements were added by way of pinstriped suits and white pleated cotton shirts. Bailey kept to the heritage of Burberry by incorporating the iconic plaid pattern into scarves and a shirt. Christopher Bailey的設計靈感來自Bill Brandt以英國社會為題材的照 片,因此,品牌以畫家帽及形成強烈對比的黑色及白色服飾作爲今季主 打服飾。設計師以條子西裝 及白色起褶棉質恤衫為品牌增添浪漫元素。 Bailey以彩格呢圖案點綴頸巾及恤衫繼續秉承Burberry經典風格。
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Byblos Byblos opted for a presentation rather than a runway for the Fall 2009 collection. The models stood on white individual platforms, wearing coats and knit sweaters nearing their leather shoes. The floor-grazing scarves and headgear were suggestive of aviator apparel, but the wool houndstooth coat and off-centered jacket emanated a style of general appeal. Byblos 捨棄天橋選擇以展覽方式展出其2009秋季系列。模特兒身穿長 及皮革鞋子的大衣及針織毛衣站在獨立的白色平臺演繹今季最新服飾。 長及地面的頸巾及頭飾的設計靈感顯然來自飛行人員服飾。狗牙圖案羊 毛大衣及剪裁獨特的夾克最能吸引大衆的注意力。
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Carlo Pignatelli At the Carlo Pignatelli show, a background video of fanning flames set a fiery ambience for intense dichromatic looks. A red shawl was draped over one shoulder of a black suit and the hat was adorned with two raccoon tails falling on the same side for a dramatic asymmetrical ensemble. As the video transitioned to a cooler natural landscape of trees, the collection shifted to leather and puffer jackets. ans or a gazar evening jacket. Carlo Pignatelli的時裝展採用以紅紅烈火為主題的背景錄像為會場營造火 熱氣氛以作出兩色強烈對比陣容。模特兒穿上黑色西裝在一邊肩膊披上 紅色披肩,再頭戴同一邊綴有兩條浣熊尾巴的帽子演繹戲劇性不規則的 效果。錄像最後播出清涼自然樹木風景的影像,正好用以襯托天橋上穿 上皮夾克及羽絨夾克的模特兒。
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Costume National Ennio Capasa defined the Costume National man as “mysterious, romantic, sober.” The mystery was certainly brewing in the monochromatic black looks that comprised the majority of the collection. Waistcoats over turtlenecks were worn over loosely fitted pleated trousers, with fedora hats dubiously slanted to the side. Ennio Capasa為Costume National 塑造“神秘、浪漫及認真”的男士形 象。系列大部分服飾以黑色單色為主調,營造神秘感覺。西裝背心加樽 領外衣、鬆身起褶 褲子及斜放紳士帽的配搭詭異浪漫,適合品味高尚男 士穿著。
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CP Company CP Company meticulously treated their materials and fabrics to reinstate the intrinsic value of authenticity. Pigments in muddy hues were applied to leather jackets for a “soiled” effect, which blended into the palette of brown, beige, and grey. Minimalistic wide coats and peacoats cohesively tied the collection together into a very contemporary show. CP Company一絲不苟地運用特選物料及布料從新履定品牌真材實料的 本質。設計師以泥色顏料糅入棕色、淡黃色及灰色皮革夾克營造“污斑” 效果。設計簡約的濶大衣及短身大衣令整個時裝展充滿當代動感。
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D&G The best certainly came last during Milan’s Fall 2009 schedule, as Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana resurrected the everpassionate soul of Oscar Wilde the poet. Against a backdrop of Wilde’s quotes, a mesmerizing collection of rococo emblazoned jackets and military coats were the perfect interpretation of the late Victorian era. But the dynamic designers brought it back to the current times with distressed denim and impeccable suits and coats. 米蘭秋季2009時間表把最好的設計留待最後向大家放送:Domenico Dolce及Stefano Gabbana把詩人Oscar Wilde的激情注入其時裝系列,令 時裝展充滿滂湃情感。時裝展以Wilde 的選詞為背景,展出一系列令人迷 惑兼充滿維多利亞時代風情的洛可可式紋章裝飾夾克及軍用大衣。活力 十足的設計師顯然不甘停留在維多利亞時代,再以滄桑牛仔服飾及一絲 不苟的西裝及大衣展現現代風格。
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Diesel This season, Diesel took a sleeker and more sophisticated approach to their men’s Fall 2009 collection. The pieces ranged from nude to black suits, which were given a slight touch of nonchalance by pairing rolled up pants with button down shirts, and vests. Overall, the collections stayed with a neutral color palette but an occasional splash of color kept the energetic vibes going. 今季,為其 2009秋季男裝系列採取一個比較時髦及更爲精致的設計 風格。卷上褲管的褲子配襯鈕扣全扣上的恤衫及背心為肉色及黑色西裝注 入點點不經意態度。整個系列以低調色彩爲主,偶然添上點點彩色以增添 品牌動感。
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Dirk Bikkembergs One of the “Antwerp Six” of influential designers, Dirk Bikkembergs is known as an avid enthusiast of sports, which is evident in his brand. His latest collection enforced his vision through casual suits and sweaters with the Bikkembergs logo. The versatility of the clothing merges casual gear with luxury that can be worn to the Andean slopes or to a lax day at the office. 作 爲“ A n t w e r p S i x ”六 位 極 具 影 響 力 設 計 師 的 其 中 一 人 , D i r k Bikkembergs是一個喜歡把其最愛運動元素融入品牌設計的運動愛好者。 設計師以Bikkembergs標識點綴悠閒西裝及毛衣,在今季最新系列繼續堅 持其設計理念。悠閒設計與奢華風格的糅合令服飾更多功能,適合登上 安迪斯山脈或辦公室清閒一天穿著。
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Dolce and Gabbana Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana wanted to go back to their Italian roots. Their introduction of the intrecciato technique of basket weaving in the background video translated into brilliant suit jackets. The economic pressures did not stifle the luxury of the line, given how flamingo pink suits, crocodile skin coats, and velvet jackets with black piping were offered with assurance. Domenico Dolce及Stefano Gabbana希望尋找他們意大利人的根源。他 們利用背景錄像介紹用以製造高級西裝夾克的intrecciato草籃編織技巧。 全球經濟危機並沒有令設計師放棄如火鶴粉紅色西裝、鱷魚皮大衣及綴 有黑色滾邊絲絨夾克等奢華設計。
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Dsquared2 Brothers Dean and Dan Caten truly know how to start a show, playing the grand piano as the curtains lifted. Their aesthetic of combining formal with casual played out in looks that were split between the top and bottom. A crisp white shirt and bowtie were paired with dark jeans, while tailored trousers were held up by suspenders and worn with a thermal and conductor’s hat. Dean及Dan Caten兄弟在時裝展帷幔徐徐上升時演奏三角鋼琴,深深吸 引每一位觀衆注意力。他們以正規混合隨便風格配搭上衣與下擺服飾作 為美學標準。清爽的白色恤衫及蝴蝶領帶與深色牛仔褲的配搭、剪裁講 究的褲子與吊襪帶加保暖內衣與售票員帽子的配搭清新美觀。
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Emporio Armani It was an extensive collection of around 100 looks at Emporio Armani. Therefore, there wasn’t much else to be desired because Armani showed cropped leather jackets, high-waisted trousers, velvet capes, fur-collared parkas, and much more. Shades of green gave the collection an earthy feel without overly hinting at military or country styles. Emporio Armani為2009年秋冬季設計多達100款不同的衣履配 搭。因此,非常貪心的男士都可以在Armani云云設計中找到自 己喜愛的衣物:皮革短夾克、高腰褲子、絲絨斗篷、毛毛領口 有帽外套。不同色差的綠色為系列帶來細水長流的鄉土情懷卻 不過度渲染軍事或鄉交風情。
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Enrico Coveri Color emerged in small doses at the Enrico Coveri Fall 2009 collection, peeping out in red belts, mustard yellow shows, lavender scarves, and the cobalt blue piping on duffel bags. An eggplant purple velvet blazer, grey bowtie, and cuffed khaki trousers were the epitome of countryside chic. The mix of colors and looks made this collection very wearable for any man seeking to add key elements into his wardrobe. Enrico Coveri 2009秋季系列以點點顔色點綴男士服飾:紅色的 腰帶、芥末黃色圍巾、淺紫色頸巾及手提袋上的深藍色滾邊。 深紫色絲絨運動上衣、灰色蝴蝶領帶及翻邊卡其褲子都是鄉村 瀟灑風格的縮影。不同顔色及款式的混合設計給所有希望為自 己衣櫥增加流行元素的男士提供易於穿著的服飾。
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