WFM+MEN Spring/Summer 2012 Lite

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fashions from the runway Emporio Armani

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CONTENTS Milano Moda Uomo S/S 2012 04

Alexander McQueen

06

Bally

07

Mode Ă Paris S/S 2012

Iceberg

88

Agnes B

136

Yves Saint Laurent

52

Jil Sander

90

Ann Demeulemeester

138

3.1 Philip Lim

Giuliano Fujiawara

54

John Richmond

92

Bill Tornade

139

Acne

08

Bottega Veneta

56

John Varvatos

94

Cerruti

140

Adam Kimmel

10

Burberry Prorsum

58

Missoni

96

Comme des Garcons

141

Arnys

12

Calvin Klein

60

Moncler Gamme Bleu

98

Dior Hommes

142

Bernhard Willhelm

14

Canali

62

Moschino

100

Dries Van Noten

143

Christian Lacroix

Givenchy

144

Qasimi Homme

50

16

Corneliani

64

Neil Barrett

102

18

Costume National Homme

66

Nicole Farhi

104

HenriK Vibskov

145

Raf Simons

20

D&G

68

Ports1961

106

Hermes

146

Rick Owens

24

Daniele Alessandrini

70

Prada

108

Issey Miyake

147

Rynshu

26

Dirk Bikkembergs

72

Pringle of Scotland

110

Jean Paul Gaultier

148

Smalto Homme

28

Dolce & Gabbana

74

Roberto Cavalli

112

John Galliano

149

Thom Browne

Junya Watanabe

150

Damir Doma

30

DSquared2

76

Salvatore Ferragamo

114

32

Emporio Armani

78

Siviglia

116

Juun J

151

Ehud

34

Enrico Coveri

80

Trussardi

118

Kenzo

152

Gustavo Lins

36

Ermanno Scervino

82

Versace

120

Kris Van Assche

153

John Lawrence Sullivan

38

Ermenegildo Zegna

84

Vivienne Westwood

122

Lanvin

154

Petar Petrov

40

Etro

86

Z Zegna

124

Louis Vuitton

155

Roland Mouret

42

Frankie Morello

128

Maison Martin Margiela

156

Steffie Christiaens

44

Gazzarrini

130

Paul Smith

157

Vier5 fashion department

46

Giorgio Armani

132

Victor & Rolf

158

Walter Van Beirendonck

48

Gucci

134

Yohji Yamamoto

159

Wooyougmi

WFM Fashion from the Runway S/S 2012

Alexander McQueen

Milan S/S 2012

Set against a darkened-warehouse backdrop, a pulsating, sixties vibe dominated at Alexander McQueen. The Modish appeal of black boots, two-toned shoes and bomber jackets, paired with striking, monochrome checks and standout stripes, succinctly captured Sarah Burton’s ‘English rock’ inspiration. Tactile elements were injected with loose-fitting pants and shots of shimmery Persian red and amber velvet, while fitted trousers, blazers and dark shades effused retro cool. 時裝騷以黑暗的倉庫為背景，充滿動感的六十年代風格是 Alexander McQueen 的時裝主要特色。黑色靴、雙色鞋以及飛行員夾克極具 時髦魅力，搭配醒目的單色格仔及大膽條紋，簡潔地捕捉住莎拉.伯頓 的「英國搖滾樂」靈感。寬鬆褲子以及閃亮的波斯紅圖案為設計注入 富有質感的元素，而黃色天鵝絨、白色修身褲、運動夾克以及深色色 調散發出復古型格。

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Bally A vacation mood took hold at Bally, as models on the verge of a journey posed around a biplane, surrounded by luggage in rust red and battleship grey. Taking inspiration from the 50s, Hers and Fidler paired tailored shorts with bulky knits and fine sweaters with fitted, cropped pants. Slick side parts, loafers and sandals fuelled the sense of nostalgia, while a stylish freshness was imbued by leather jackets in Carolina blue.

Bally的時裝騷洋溢著度假的心情，模特兒仿佛即將要踏上旅途，一同 圍著雙翼飛機擺甫士，身邊則放著鐵鏽紅色與​​戰艦灰色的行李。Hers & Fidler從50年代得到靈感，將貼身短褲與蓬鬆針織搭配起來，細針織 毛衣則與修身七分褲相得益彰。華麗的邊飾、低幫鞋以及涼鞋更添懷 舊感，而加州藍色的皮夾克則洋溢著時尚的新鮮感。

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Giuliano Fujiawara For his latest presentation, creative director Masataka Matsumura played with contradictions to craft a collection of cool streetwear.

Shimmering, redwood boiler suits were cropped at the ankle and paired with crisp, white shirts and skinny, black ties, while boxy, black lab coats and fine, charcoal suits were worn with bowties and beanies. 創意總監Masataka Matsumura在其最新設計發揮矛盾元素，創造出 型格街頭時裝系列。閃亮的紅木連衫褲工作服被剪短至腳踝位置，并 與醒目的白襯衣及緊身的黑領呔搭配起來，而方形黑色實驗服及精細 的木炭色西裝則搭配蝴蝶領結及無檐小便帽穿著。

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Bottega Veneta Thomas Maier paraded funky, striped shirts under slim-fit suits in steely-blue plaid and rumpled shades of grey and beige. More casual elements were introduced with stand-up collars, patch pockets and hip, monochrome knits, before giving way to tight-fitting leathers patched with strips of denim. For a burst of colour, cerulean checks bound the torso and swirling, motley prints fell into fabulous, straight-cut pants.

Thomas Maier帶來另類但有型的條紋襯衫，外面穿著的則是以灰色及 米色為色調、帶有鋼藍色格仔花紋的褶皺緊身套裝。 直領、貼袋、包 臀以及單色針織為設計注入更多休閒元素，而以牛仔布條點綴的緊身 皮革則與別不同。 天藍色的格仔佈滿上衣，而精緻的直身長褲配有捲 曲雜色圖案，帶來顏色混搭的奇妙效果。

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Burberry Prorsum By pairing brilliant graphics with 70s caps in burnt orange and olive green, Christopher Bailey went on a wild ride far beyond the bounds of modern traditionalism. Cropped jackets rode up jonquil sweaters, while leather coats engulfed skinny pants. Attention to detail sent brilliant mandalas spinning across knitwear, shorts and shirts, and saw Aztec-like prints whirling across shoe tops.

Christopher Bailey將精緻圖案與鮮橙色及橄欖綠色的70年代風格圓 帽搭配起來，遠遠超出了現代傳統主義的範圍。短夾克下面穿著印有 長壽花圖案的貿易，而皮大衣則與緊身褲搭配穿著。設計非常注重細 節，針織服裝、短褲及襯衫均以印有曼荼羅圖案的精美紡紗製作， 而鞋面則印滿阿茲台克款式的漩渦圖案。

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Calvin Klein Describing his latest collection as American sportswear with a modern take, creative director Italo Zucchelli played with texture and proportion to create baggy sweatpants that worked equally well with both tailored jackets and fitted tanks. Dark denim and sleek, icy-white suits offered more-streamlined silhouettes, while aureolin cotton jersey interspersed with shiny shots of taupe and aqua blue infused subtle streaks of colour. 在其帶有現代氣息的最新美國運動服裝系列中，創意總監Italo Zucchelli 運用質感與比例創造出寬鬆的運動褲，與貼身夾克及修身短背心搭配 都同樣出色。 深色牛仔服加上時尚冷白色的西裝造就更加流線型的輪 廓，而鈷黃色的棉質運動衫與灰褐色及水藍色的閃亮色塊相映成趣，增 添一份微妙的色彩條紋感。

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Canali Models emerging from an ornate archway to the strains of modern sitar music set the scene for Eastern influences on the Canali runway, as Indian panache instilled tailored pieces with disarming charm.

Cuffed pants cut from electric blue were teamed with fine-knit, azure tunics, tailored jackets were worn with moccasins and Nehru collars graced unbuttoned shirts. Meanwhile, silky, fringed scarves added a luxe finish. 在現代西塔琴音樂的伴奏下，模特兒從華麗的拱門魚貫而出，為Canali 伸展台上的東方魅力奠定基調，貼身服裝充滿著印度的華麗神韻，其魅 力無可阻擋。 電藍色的翻邊褲與細針織的天藍色罩衫相輔相成，貼身 夾克與鹿皮鞋搭配起來，而尼赫魯衣領令解開紐扣的襯衫更添優雅。 同時，襯以流蘇的絲質圍巾增加了豪華感覺。

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Corneliani At Corneliani, models traversed a desert landscape in a heady mix of sartorial splendour and spirited casual attire. While classic suits worn with ties and lace-ups sported new-wave briefcases and pocket handkerchiefs, fedoras and tailored pants were paired with zippered coats, puce sweaters and loose-knit cardigans. Meanwhile, tugging firmly at the cords of adventure, belted, suede safari jackets took to the sand with desert boots and snakeskin totes.

Corneliani的模特兒走過令人陶醉的沙漠景觀，身上穿著的是剪裁出色 及充滿活力的休閒時裝。 與經典西裝搭配的是領呔、鑲以花邊的新潮 公文包及小手帕，而軟呢帽及西裝褲則與拉鏈外套、深褐色毛衣以及寬 鬆的針織羊毛衫相得益彰。同時，為充分體現冒險精神，束帶麂皮獵裝 夾克登上沙漠舞臺，與沙漠靴及蛇皮手提包相映成趣。

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Costume National Homme Fired by rockabilly, Ennio Capasa created cool images inspired by the high energy of the early rock and roll era. On the runway, models with tousled hair paraded a medley of stovepipes, twotoned shoes, collarless, plaid jackets and edgy, zippered tunics to the beat of ‘Walk the River’ by Guillemots. Remaining true to rock’s sombre palette, Capasa worked predominantly with gunmetal grey and solid black, shot with invigorating ripples of rich carnelian.

Ennio Capasa從早期鄉村搖滾樂的激情得到啓發，創造出型格的圖 像。 頭髮蓬亂的模特兒穿著瘦腿緊身褲、雙色鞋、無領格仔花紋夾克 以及前衛的拉鍊罩衫，隨著Guillemots的“Walk the River”節奏步上 伸展台。為忠實表現搖滾的陰沉格調，Capasa的設計主要以青銅色灰 色及純黑色為主，與鮮豔瑪瑙色的動感漣漪圖案巧妙搭配。

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D & G Nonchalant and sexy are two words that best describe D&G’s final menswear show. Through masterful tailoring, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana melded heraldic silks with treated denim to create a collection that pulsated with sensual energy. Fine, silk panels draped from heavy waistbands and tough, slashed jeans were tempered by fluttery, open-necked shirts. Worn loafers and cool fedoras added instant chic appeal. 用「冷漠自由」及「性感」來形容D＆G本季最後一場的男裝時裝騷再 貼切不過。 透過高超的剪裁，Domenico Dolce及Stefano Gabbana將 紋章設計的絲綢與經過處理的牛仔布料融合起來，創造出充滿性感能 量的系列。厚重的腰帶上垂著精細的絲質雜色布條，而從硬朗的開叉 牛仔褲則在飄逸的開領襯衫搭配下增添了一份柔和。破舊的低幫鞋以 及型格的軟呢帽即時增添了時尚魅力。

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Daniele Alessandrini Far from the restrained look of last season, for Spring/Summer 2012, Daniele Alessandrini created star-spangled ensembles in vivid orange, dazzling sunglow and shades of brilliant sky blue. Honing the unconventional vibe, sweaters buttoned at the shoulder and vibrant, contrasting belts drew attention to waists, while brightlylaced sneakers reinforced the collection’s casual air.

Daniele Alessandrini 為2012年春夏季所設計的時裝與上一季的樸素 外觀南轅北轍，創造出以鮮橙色、耀眼朝霞色以及絢麗天藍色色調為 特點、且以星星點綴的連身衣。 設計師將非常規的格調發揮得淋漓盡 致。毛衣肩部釘有紐扣，具有鮮明對比效果的動感皮帶將注意力吸引 到腰部，而襯以明亮花邊的運動鞋強化了該系列的休閒風格。 24

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Dirk Bikkembergs This season saw yet another change in direction for Dirk Bikkemberg as he focussed on swimming for his latest sportswear couture collection. Sleek one-pieces enveloped by luxurious robes were accessorized with slippers, racing caps, goggles and draping towels. Beyond the pool, collarless bombers with zippered fronts created an edgy appeal, star motifs radiated casual cool and tailored jackets garnered an air of sophistication.

Dirk Bikkemberg在本季再度改變風格，將其運動時裝系列 的重點轉到泳池。 時尚的連體泳衣外面包裹著豪華的長袍， 並 與 拖 鞋 、 賽 車 帽 、 泳 鏡 及 浴 巾 搭 配 起 來 。 除 了 泳 池 外 ， 前胸拉鏈的無領飛行員夾克創造出前衛感覺，星形圖案散發出休閒型 格，而貼身夾克則為設計增添一份成熟氣息。

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Dolce & Gabbana Amid the classic, dark suits, crisp, white shirts and lean, black ties, Dolce and Gabbana broke from the polished look to create eclectic pieces. Mesh sweaters with belted trousers, boiler suits worn over teal shirts, cropped, hooded jackets and transparent overlays worked together to instill the collection with a casual air. Meanwhile, the addition of two-toned lace-ups ensured that refinement was never far from hand.

Dolce & Gabbana打破經典深色西裝、醒目白色襯衫以及修 長黑色領呔的優雅形象，創造出折衷風格的時裝。與束帶長 褲搭配的網紋毛衣、藍綠色襯衫外面套著的連衫褲工作服、 連 帽 短 夾 克 以 及 透 明 外 套 ， 共 同 為 該 系 列 注 入 休 閒 氣 息 。 與此同時，雙色花邊令該系列更顯別致。 28

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DSquared2 Dean and Dan Caten took their audience on a journey from the fjords of Norway to Mykonos and beyond. Norwegian fishermen’s chic translated into fitted jeans worn with brightly-coloured, slouchy layers, patchwork jackets and beanies, while the Greek islands stripped away the layers to reveal cropped trousers and T-shirts. To complete the journey, glam rock took hold, replacing holiday garb with stovepipe trousers, skinny ties and dapper, fitted jackets.

Dean & Dan Caten的設計令觀眾領略到挪威峽灣至米克諾斯島諾斯一 帶的風情。 挪威漁民的別緻在著貼身牛仔褲當中得以反映，並與慵懶 分層的鮮豔雜色夾克以及無檐小便帽搭配起來，而希臘島嶼的設計剝 掉外面的層次，將七分褲與T恤展現眼前。旅程的最後主打格南岩風 格，假日裝束被瘦腿緊身褲、窄型領呔以及整潔的修身夾克所取代。

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Emporio Armani Working primarily with shades of grey, Giorgio Armani created a fabulous collection of casual suits with quirky finishes. Classic jackets shimmered in charcoal edged with translucent trim, were moulded from black leather or were cast from mottled fabrics.

Meanwhile, sheer shirts were worn with dark ties or supplanted by transparent tops and crinkly T-shirts. To finish, duffel bags and twotoned knitwear accentuated the relaxed air.

Giorgio Armani以灰色色調為主，創造出外觀奇特但令人讚歎的休閒裝 系列。 木炭色的經典夾克以黑色皮革或雜色面料製成並以半透明飾邊 裝點，極具魅力。同時，透明襯衫與深色領呔搭配，或者被透明上衣 及起皺T恤取代。最後，行李袋和雙色針織服裝增添了休閒氣息。 32

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Enrico Coveri Banishing the greys of last season, for Spring/Summer 2012, Enrico Coveri embraced a profusion of colour that he crafted into adroitly-tailored jackets paired with cuffed shorts and ankle-length trousers. Lavender and lilac were interspersed by slices of deep aqua and spring green. To complete the colour explosion, jackets in gold and pants in fuchsia were succeeded by floral suits and gorgeous, paisley prints.

Enrico Coveri摒棄了上一季的灰色格調，在2010年春夏系列中融入 繽紛色彩，製作出巧妙縫製的夾克以及相應搭配的翻邊短褲與九分 褲。淡紫色和灰紫色當中穿插了深海藍及春意綠的片段。在金色夾 克及紫紅色褲子之後登場的是印花西裝以及漂亮的佩斯利花紋，令 燦爛色彩更臻完美。

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Ermanno Scervino A nonchalant air with a seductive undertow prevailed at Ermanno Scervino as ruffled, grey suits worn with open-necked shirts and oversized kerchiefs made way for deep-V sweaters, rolled cuffs and fedoras. Slouchy knitwear and driving gloves lent the collection a sense of outdoor activity, while crumpled shirts and stubbled chins reverberated with lazy-Sunday appeal. 在「冷漠自由」風格之下暗含著性感，這便是Ermanno Scervino設計 的主調。灰色的褶邊西裝與開領襯衫搭配，而超大手帕則為低領毛衣、 捲袖及軟呢帽開路。慵懶風格的針織衣物以及駕駛手套為系列帶來戶外 活動的感覺，而褶皺襯衫以及下巴短鬚則帶出週日的慵懶魅力。

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