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fashions from the runway Prada
CONTENTS Milano Moda Donna 04 08 12 16 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60
D&G Enrico Coveri Iceberg Prada Agatha Ruiz Prada Alberta Ferretti Angelo Marani Anteprima Blugirl Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry prorsum Byblos Dsquared2 Elena Miró Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Ermanno Scervino Etro Francesco Scognamiglio Frankie Morello Gianfranco Ferre Giorgio Armani Gucci Jil Sander
Autumn/Winter 2009 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 96 98 99 100 101 102 103 104
John Richmond Kristina Ti Krizia Lorenzo Riva Louisa Beccaria Mariella Burani Massimo Rebecci Max Mara Mila Schon Missoni Moschino Moschino C & C NUDE Roberto Cavalli Roberto Musso Roccobarocco Salvatore Ferragamo Sportmax Stefanel Chicca Luald’s Beequeen Valeria Marini Albino Alviero Martini Antonio Marras Aquilano Rimondi
Ready-To-Wear
London
105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122
Brioni Carla Carini Clips CNC Debora Sinibaldi Fendi Gabriele Colangelo Gaetano Navarra Jo No Fui Love Sex Money Luciano Soprani Normaluisa Paola Frani Simonetta Ravizza Ter Et Bantine Valentin Yudashkin Zuhair Murad Versace
132 133 134 135 136 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146
Charles Anastase Giles Graeme Black Margaret Howell Issa Julien Macdonald Luella Nathan Jenden Noir Paul Costelloe Sinha Stanic Todd Lynn Topshop Unique Vivienne Westwood
124 126 128 129 130 131
LONDON FASHION WEEK Paul Smith Twenty 8 Twellve Ashish Betty Jackson Bora Aksu Caroline Charles
148 150 152 153 154 155 156 157 158
HONG KONG FASHION WEEK HK Young Fashion Designers Contest Fashion Maker IKA Hidy Ng / Gianni Castelli Moiselle mademoiselle / Imaroon Naoko Tsuruta Treshei International Fashion Designers
D&G Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana presented a theatrical collection, reminiscent of a night at the opera. Dresses with pouf skirts made of silk and brocades were adorned with oversized velvet bows and puff sleeves. Classic ball gowns of decades past were cut thigh high for the modern D&G woman. A cropped white cape and billowing skirts with black tassels were included for added impact. Domenico Dolce 及 Stefano Gabbana 的服飾系 列充滿戲劇效果，令人回味歌劇之夜。以超大絲 絨蝴蝶結 及公主袖子點綴的絲質及織錦 泡泡短裙 美艷嫵媚。加上開衩設計的經典晚禮服長裙最適 合摩登 D&G女郎穿著。白色短斗篷及綴有黑色流 蘇的泡泡短裙為華麗的 D&G秋冬系列畫上完美的 句號。
Enrico Coveri The candy-colored palette was a defining feature of Enrico Coveri’s cheerful glam collection. The silhouettes were inspired by the 50s,demonstrated by pink pair of highwaisted trousers, jackets with fur collars and cuffs, and a-line coats with thin belts. Gloves and fishnet stockings also added to the retro aesthetic. 糖果色調是 Enrico Coveri 開心華麗系列的重 要特色。設計師受上個世紀50年代風格所影 響，設計出高腰粉色褲子、綴有毛毛領口及袖 口的夾克及配有幼腰帶的直桶大衣。手套及漁 網絲襪把品牌懷舊情懷推向新高。
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Iceberg Iceberg’s Paolo Gerani perfectly balanced the bulky furs and knits on top with opaque black tights on the bottom. The volume of the sleeves and necklines never seemed overdone, which would translate well off the runway. Gerani moved toward more body-conscious looks, including an incredible red strapless scalloped dress with an exposed black zipper running down the front. The black and fuchsia ankle boots provided great contrast to the looks. Iceberg的禦用設計師 Paolo Gerani 以厚厚的毛皮及針織物用 以配襯黑色透明襪褲，配搭天意 無縫。設計師在天橋上展示雖然 剪裁前衛的袖子及領口，卻不流 於誇張。Gerani 為大家設計一系 列貼身剪裁服飾，包括一件令人 讚嘆胸前綴有黑色拉鏈的紅色無 肩膊扇裙。黑色及深粉色及膝靴 為品牌系列帶來新風格。
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Prada For Fall 2009, Miuccia Prada looked to simple silhouettes and a dark palette for austerity at its finest. The wool coats and suits in thick upholstery fabrics evoked “feminine empowerment,” as Prada defined it. This was especially manifest in the stiff leathers and low-cut necklines. But Prada wouldn’ t be what it is without killer accessories, such as the leather belts and incredibly high boots for the sexiest of legs. Miuccia Prada 為2009 年秋季選用深色調布料設計剪 裁簡單的服飾及。羊毛大衣及厚布料剪裁的西裝散發 Prada 式的“女性力量 ”。硬皮革及低胸領口設計 尤其突顯女性剛陽力量。Prada 以皮帶及超高靴子等 前衛服飾帶出女性腿部性感魅力。
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Agatha Ruiz Prada Reminiscent of Spanish paintings, De La Prada’ s creations this season were just that—an art gallery on the catwalk. With a volcanic eruption of bright colors, the collection was a perfect blend of fun designs with large birdcages as skirts and eggs splattered on a red and white dress that looked like a picnic table cloth. De La Prada’s love for the arts was without a doubt recognizable in her designs.
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由於De La Prada 把天橋佈置成一間畫廊，品 牌今季的服飾創作令人不期然想起 西班牙油 畫。源源不斷爆發力驚人的鮮豔色調加上設計 師刻意以鳥籠款式設計短裙及以蛋黃跡裝飾狀 似野餐臺布的紅白色裙子，令系列充滿玩味。 De La Prada 對藝術的熱愛全都反映在其服飾 設計上。
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Alberta Ferretti Alberta Ferretti’s collection was a mixture of textiles and bright colors with minimal detail. Ferretti paraded long jackets in shades of green and purple, and caught the eye with turquoise sheer capri pants mixed with a thick red sash and sheer purple top. The blending of contrasting colors made the collection elegant without the need for heavy accessories. Alberta Ferretti的服飾系列以不同布料及鮮豔色彩襯 托簡約設計風格。Ferretti 展出綠色及紫色長夾克、 藍綠色緊身薄褲與紅色厚要帶及紫色薄上衣的配搭， 吸引所有人的目光。無需笨重的裝飾物，鮮明對比色 調的混合也能令服飾系列更添優雅。
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Angelo Marani Angelo Marani stepped into two different worlds for his Fall 2009 collection. He channeled bohemian melodies with a paisley printed tunic and patched denim. Rocker chic came in the form of black lamé and python patterned tights. The most notable look was a one-shouldered gold-sequined dress with an animal printed bodice and long wisps of fabric that swirled about the wearer’s legs. Angelo Marani 的2009秋季系列把兩個不同的世 界結連。設計師把波西米亞調子注入渦紋圖案上 衣及拼貼牛仔褲。搖滾式的時髦格調盡現黑色閃 閃襪褲及蟒蛇皮圖案襪褲上。整個系列最突出的 衣履是一件單膊動物圖案 胸下擺綴有流蘇的金色 釘珠裙子。
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Anteprima With off-the-shoulder knit tops over a black turtle-neck and a classic pair of gray slacks, the cold weather did not hide the elegance and femininity at Anteprima. Skirts with long ruffled draping in satin black and a sheer black knit top were amongst the most inspiring pieces for eveningwear. Anteprima’ s vision of self-expression through dark color and warm knits accentuated a classic look to be worn anywhere. 黑色樽領跌膊針織上衣及經典灰色鬆身長褲並 不能在冬日把 Anteprima 的優雅及女性化格調 抹去。綴有長褶邊的緞子黑色短裙及黑色針織 薄上衣是最受歡迎的晚裝。Anteprima 透過深 色調及暖暖的針織物展現品牌獨特形象，創造 易於穿著的經典服飾。
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Blugirl Anna Molinari sure knows how to cater to the whims of young girls, as the latest Blugirl collection was pretty and pleasing. Fur boteros in pastel colors were worn over sequined cardigans, floral skirts, and silk dresses with bows. The white tights and knee-high socks with mary-jane shoes embodied uptown class with a touch of innocence. Anna Molinari 最新Blugirl 系列美麗可愛，最能俘 虜年輕女孩的心。淺色的毛毛短大衣配襯釘珠開 胸羊毛衫、印花短裙及綴有蝴蝶結的絲質裙子， 青春無敵。白色襪褲及膝襪子與學生鞋子格調時 髦， 散發陣陣天真無邪風格。
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Blumarine Anna Molinari’s more sophisticated line was heavily inspired by pop-art, as evidenced by the backdrop of Andy Warhol styled art work, graffiti printed mini dresses, and brightlycolored cropped jackets. The opening look was fierce in every way, clad in head-totoe animal leopard print. The highlight of the collection was the sweater dresses paired with tailored coats. Blumarine 天橋上的 Andy Warhol 風格藝術品 背景、塗鴉印花迷你裙及鮮豔的短夾克演示 Anna Molinari 的精緻服飾系列設計風格 受波普藝術深深影響。最先出場的模 特兒從頭到腳都是豹紋動物圖案， 狂野萬分。Blumarine 系列最突 出的衣履是開胸羊毛裙子配貼 身大衣的配搭。
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Bottega Veneta Sophistication has a name, and it is without a doubt, Bottega Veneta. The collection of womenswear was simple yet sophisticated. The main colors were brown and soft cream, which made the dresses appear luxurious and soft. Handbags in reptile or leather accompanied the designs, adding further glamour. Bottega Veneta 是精致服飾的佼佼者，其女裝系 列設計簡單但不失精緻。設計師選用棕色及淺黃 色作爲主要色調，令裙子更顯柔和及奢華。設計 師以精湛設計，利用爬蟲類動物皮或皮革製造手 袋，進一步突出品牌奢華形象。
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Burberry prorsum Christopher Bailey’s latest collection combines business-like formality with elegance and style. The main attractions were the dresses with floral designs and artsy prints that were worn with thick, black tights and an equally long trench coat. The long, dark-colored trench added a touch of glamour as did the fitted belts and chunky high boots. Christopher Bailey的最新系列為整齊的上班服款 式注入優雅及時髦風格。普通印花裙子及新派藝 術印花裙子配以黑色厚襪褲 及同長度的軍用雨衣 備受大衆注目。深色長軍用雨衣、貼身剪裁的腰 帶及厚厚的高桶靴為品牌帶來點點華麗感。
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Byblos A t t h e B y b l o s F a l l 2 0 0 9 s h o w, monochromatic looks came in drones — the first half in chrome greys and black and the second half in icy whites and cream. However, the austerity was broken with the occasional splash of turquoise. Everything was cinched in the waist for a soft and feminine appeal. Byblos 2009秋季時裝展以單色作爲主打色調： 時裝展上半部以鉻灰色及黑色作主調而時裝展 下半部則以冰涼白色及黃色作主調。但是，設 計師並不獨孤一味，不時以點點藍綠色打破品 牌色彩樸素局面。每一件展出的衣物都作修腰 設計，令服飾充滿嬌柔及女性化魅力。
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Dsquared2 It was blatant product placement at DSquared2 as many models walked down the runway with a cup of Starbucks coffee in hand. Dan and Dean Caten brought a mixture of extremes, when they paired floor-grazing gowns with sweaters messily tied around the neck and a pair of sunglasses and a hat, cover most of the face. DSquared2 命令多名模特兒手持 一杯 Starbucks 咖 啡貓步天橋，為時裝展加添喧鬧感覺。Dan 及 Dean Caten 把多款極端服飾配襯，試圖從衝擊中找尋平衡 點：拖地長裙配以頸部淩亂扣上的開胸羊毛衫及遮蓋 大部分面部的太陽鏡及帽子配搭另類。
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Elena Miró The temperatures dropped at the Elena Miró show as each model wore a Russian fur hat or “ushanka” to keep their heads warm. Appropriate for the winter season, a crisp off-white coat was so flattering with the matching gloves, pencil skirt, and suede boots. A lace top with a jewel-encrusted neckline and a pleated skirt in the same color scheme suited the cold conditions extremely well. 每一位 Elena Miró 時裝展出場的模特兒頭戴俄羅斯毛毛 帽子或軍帽，令會場溫度驟降。清爽的白色大衣與同系列 的手套、直桶長裙以及仿麂皮靴的配搭最宜冬季穿著。在 領口鑲滿寶石的花邊上衣及同色系的打褶短裙也是冬日最 佳服飾。
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Emilio Pucci Emilio Pucci benefited from the creative leadership of Peter Dundas this season, which may have explained the lacked of signature swirling prints that has thus far defined the brand. However, his designs did not disappoint. The new collection was boldly colorful, fresh and sexy. With short, fitted dresses and strappy heels, the looks surely drew attention from all directions. And so did the rock-star tights and oversized fox fur coats in dark colors. 今季，Peter Dundas 為 Emilio Pucci 創作偏離品 牌風格的服飾。品牌的招牌漩渦圖案完全消失， 卻沒有令一眾支持者失望。新系列用色大膽、 清 新及性感。貼身短裙及幼帶高跟鞋、搖滾巨型襪 褲及超大碼狐狸毛深色大衣必定令您成爲衆人的 焦點。
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Emporio Armani
It was an extensive collection of around 100 looks at Emporio Armani showed everything from cascading ruffle dresses, coats with rosettes, rich velvet blazers, tailored shorts, and much more. The collection, which was devoid of trousers of any sort, was all about emphasizing the legs. Emporio Armani 展出超過一百套不同款式的 服飾，從層級式飾褶裙子到綴有玫瑰花的大 衣、至絲絨運動上衣及貼身剪裁的短褲都令 人眼前一亮。設計師希望其設計能突出小腿 的綫條，所以並沒有為今季系列設計褲子。
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Ermanno Scervino Ermanno Scervino’s latest collection revealed the designer’s true style with deep purple oversized jackets and thigh-high boots that elevated the overall look. While his oversized jackets in black and purple were undoubtedly feminine and elegant, the gloves accentuated the wear with a soft yet bold look. Ermanno Scervino 的最新系列以深紫色 超大碼夾克 及及膝靴提升品牌格調，盡顯設計師真正風格。超大 碼黑色及紫色 夾克設計優雅兼充滿女性化；而手套 則為服飾加添嬌柔大膽兼併感覺。
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Etro The Etro Fall 2009 collection captured the connection between East and West with inspirational geometric patterns in gold, bronze and copper. The Turkish carpet-inspired patterns on the long, sheer chiffon dresses were covered in rich mixes of orange, green and brown. Suede shoes and gilded leather skirts topped with silk blouses showed the designer’s straightforward approach to a classic style with a modern twist. Etro 2009秋季系列以幾何圖案金色、銀色及銅色 把東方的魅力與西方的神韻集合。雪紡薄長裙上 橙色、綠色及棕色土爾其地毯圖案充滿美感。仿 麂皮鞋子及皮革短裙與絲質女裝恤衫的配搭展現 設計師把摩登風格注入經典款式的鬼斧神工。
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Francesco Scognamiglio This season’s collection featured a spectacular array of sheer ready-to-wear pieces and e n o r m o u s b o w s o n s i n g l e s h o u l d e re d , short dresses specifically designed to be accessorized with heavy gold shoes. The designer’s outrageous and warrior-like designs were cut to perfection to give edge, elegance and dramatic beauty. 今季，品牌展出一系列易於穿著的女裝及綴有大 蝴蝶結的單膊上衣、與笨重金色鞋子同穿的短 裙。設計師的大膽及戰士型設計再加上無暇的剪 裁為衣履帶來前衛、優雅及戲劇性美感。
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Frankie Morello The design duo Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti demonstrated thier high level of creativity for this imaginative, fun and snappy brand again with an image very much against the current 80’s trend. Modica and Gigliotti created a colorful collection, limiting their use of black. Frankie Morello’s line centered on silk and satin materials, with highlights including geometrically shaped angora capes. The designs always sophisticated, accentuated shoulders or hips, and used retro prints in many combinations. For accessories, clutches and bowl shaped handbags were the preffered items. Maurizio Modica 及 Pierfrancesco Gigliotti 設 計孖寳在時裝展為富想象力、有趣及活潑的品 牌展現高度創造力，把80年代潮流印象活現 天橋。Modica 及 Gigliotti 節約使用黑色，而 採用大量鮮豔色調為系列添上色彩。Frankie Morello選用大量絲質及緞子布料，而主打服 飾則包括一件幾何形安哥拉山羊毛斗篷。 設計不時展露精密的設計心思，強調膊頭 或臀部的綫條，並以懷舊印花裝飾大量衣 履配搭。手挽袋及碗型手袋是大衆最愛 飾物。
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The dual talents behind the Gianfranco Ferré’s new collection are Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. The themes of the collection were “aristocratic woman” and “romance”, inspired by the movie “Elizabeth”. Ferré’ s collection was almost entirely in black and takes us back to the 1940s office worker style. The collection was of comprised small jackets, slim pants, fitted skirts and tightly belted dresses. Ferré played with bolero shapes, minimized, waists and ruffled collars. There was a controlled femininity in the designs. Ladylike silhouettes stood out with the use of lush velvets. Satin and crepe marocain added a chic-look to this season’s Ferre collection. Gianfranco Ferré’s 最新系列的幕後創作者 Tommaso Aquilano 及 Roberto Rimondi 受電影“Elizabeth”所影響，採用“貴族
Gianfranco Ferre
女人”及“浪漫”兩個元素作爲服飾系列主題。 Ferré’s 選用黑 色作爲系列主要色調， 充滿 1940年代辦公室服飾風格。纖細 夾克、窄身褲子、窄身短裙及配有腰帶的窄身長裙就是品牌的 主打服飾。Ferré’s 以不同款式短上衣、簡約設計、突出腰部綫 條的剪裁及飾褶領口令大家耳目一新。奢華絲絨襯托淑女的身 段剪裁展示設計師精心為服飾注入的女性化元素。緞子及馬羅 坎平紋縐布為 Ferre 系列增添時髦感覺。
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Giorgio Armani Giorgio Armani is taking us back to the 1980s. His new collection was inspired by the experienced woman. She prefers to spend the majority her time on her career and charitable causes. Super skinny pants, fitted blazers, pencil skirts, leather berets, and sexy high heels remind us of the eighties... Giorgio Armani showed off his elegant tailoring. Black and gray were central color schemes. Delicate party dresses worn with dark opaque tight, were the noteworty designs from the Armani’s new collection. Giorgio Armani 回歸上世紀80年代。 其最新系列靈感來自閲歷豐富，喜 歡在工作及慈善方面善用時間的成 熟女性。超窄身褲子、窄身運動 上衣，直筒短裙、皮革貝雷帽及 性感 高跟鞋令人回味80年代。 Giorgio Armani以盡情展現其優雅 剪裁風格。黑色及灰色是服飾系 列的主要色調。雅緻的派對長裙 與深色透明襪褲的配搭是Armani 全新服裝系列最突出設計。
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Gucci Creative Director Frida Gianini brought us Rock&Roll Chic for Fall 2009/2010. She welcomed the new season with a collection comprised of very dark hues utilizing shiny and sparkling fabrics. This season’s Gucci woman is vamp, alluring and independent. Keeping up with the 80’s new wave trend, the collection featured slim fitting metallic, suits, colorful-dot print mini dresses, wide and bold shoulders, tight-fitting trouser, silk jogging pants and aggressive looking zippers on jackets. Gucci favored thight-high leather boots paired with silk leggings and spiked heels, and crocodile bags. 設計總監 Frida Gianini 為2009/2010秋季打造 樂與怒式的瀟灑感覺。 設計師以光滑及閃亮的 深色布料為秋季揭開序幕。今季，Gucci 為女 性營造放蕩、迷人及獨立形象。爲了緊貼 80年 代的新浪潮，Gucci 系列主打窄身金屬衣料、 西裝、顔色鮮豔的波點迷你裙、大膽剪裁的濶 膊頭設計、緊身褲子、絲質跑步褲子及夾克上 的前衛拉鏈，每個設計令大家嘆爲觀止。Gucci 最愛的配搭就是及膝皮革靴子與絲質襪褲、斗 零高跟鞋鱷魚皮手袋。
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Jil Sander Designer Raf Simon, the creative energy behind the Jil Sander label produced a very minimalistic 21st century collection. There were large architectural shoulders and great silhouttes, along with asymmetrical cuttings and bold colours such as red, orange, black and gray. Raf Simon , unlike other designers ,did not follow the reto trend. Instead, he looked to the future and produced a successful new image that included pantsuits, androgynous coats, shift and suit dresses. 設計師 Raf Simon 是 Jil Sander 品牌背後的創 作靈感泉源，為品牌設計貼合21世紀主題的簡約 服飾系列。結構性的大膊頭剪裁及豪邁的服飾剪 影，與不對稱剪裁及大膽色調如紅色、橙色黑色 及灰色充滿未來風格。Raf Simon 沒有隨波逐流 採用今季流行的懷舊風格，而採用未來風尚，以 褲子套裝、中性大衣、寬鬆直筒連衣裙及長裙套 裝成功製造新形象。
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John Richmond In his new collection British fashion designer, John Richmond, aimed to create the images of a stylish, self-confident woman. Richmond made his mark on the feminine cut jackets, well-fitted skirts, tight pants and sexy high heels. His unique range, shimmering with liquid gold and pewter, was at once seductive, feminine, funky and flattering.
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Kristina Ti Cristina Tardito is the designer behind this Italian label, Like other designers, she also went for an 80s inspired look with; body fitting designs, long socks, pastel tones and leather boots. Her designs remind us of romanticism and ladylike femininity. She produced dresses with slinky cuts, and used colors such as seledone green and pink. Accessories included knit berets, and silk scarves. 是這個意大利品牌的王牌設計師Cristina Tardito 與其他設計師一樣靈感來自80年代。貼身剪裁設 計、長襪子、粉色調 及皮革 靴子全都散發80年代 浪漫及淑女風格。設計師選用緊身剪裁縫製長裙 及綠色及粉紅色等色調創造其他服飾。受歡迎飾 物包括針織貝雷帽及絲質領巾。
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Krizia Milanese firm Krizia paraded its latest collection in Milan, inspiring everyone with its voluminous, yet sculptured silhouettes, Mariuccia Mandelli, the creator and soul of Krizia, adapted a modernist approach for her collection, focusing on graphic patterns, accentuated hips, tapered pants and gauzy silhouettes. The collection included velvet suits, trapeze coats, little jackets, long coats and slinky silk dresses. 米蘭品牌 Krizia 當然選擇在米蘭展出其最新服裝系 列，叫大家爲其多款 精心剪裁服飾驚嘆。Krizia 的創 造者及靈魂 Mariuccia Mandelli 採納摩登風格，把衆 人注意力集中在平面圖案、強調臀部的設計、倒三角 剪裁褲子及 gauzy silhouettes.系列 包括絲絨西裝、 三角剪裁大衣、小夾克、長大衣及緊身絲質長裙。
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Lorenzo Riva
The Italian designer Lorenzo Riva’s collection was a good reflection of the 90s. He favored velvets, lace and silk fabrics. The designs of the dresses were free from the hips, and reminds us of the nostalgia of the 1950s. The theme of the collection was “the aristocratic look”, regal and very sexy. Lorenzo Riva’s new range included tweeds asymmetric evening dresses and feminine skirts for Fall/winter 2009. 意大利設計師 Lorenzo Riva 的服飾系列充滿90年代情懷。 設計師採用大量絲絨、花邊及絲質 布料。長裙的臀部寬鬆 飄逸，令人回味1950年代風情。貴族格調”、豪華及極度 性感就是品牌系列的主題。Lorenzo Riva 為2009秋冬展出 不對稱花呢晚裝長裙及女性化短裙，高貴性感。
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Louisa Beccaria
L o u i s B e c c a r i a ’s n e w c o l l e c t i o n w a s reminescent of fairytales, Unlike other designers, her collection is very feminine and reminds us of Lady Diana’s poise during her first years inside the Royal Family. The collectiontransported the viewer to anotherera where it is possible to enjoy the niceties of life. Louis Beccaria 的最新系列充滿童話風格。與 別的設計師不同，品牌系列極度女性化，令人 懷緬戴安娜王妃早年在英國王室生活的靜謐倩 影。服飾系列然後轉化成悠閒的便服，令人感 覺安逸。
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Mariella Burani Italian fashion designer Mariella Burani was inspired by the romantic spirit of the 1980s. Her designs were fully immersed in the past while glancing to the future. The fabrics used were both precious and unique. The collection displayed well-balanced usage of colors such as white, brown, and grey. For daywear and black and white for the evening. The range included jackets with unusal lines, tapered or draped trousers and skirts, and luxurious coats and white blouses.
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Massimo Rebecci Rebecci’s collection showed elements of the 80s trend,this season, as cut-off boots, thin belts and pencil skrts dominated the runway. He combined feminine, flirty ruffle tops and puffed sleeves with skirts. Coats and jackets were reminiscent of the 50s with less shape but more detailing on the collars. Rebecchi’ s preferred colors were rich pinks reds, grey and black.
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Max Mara Max Mara is turning back to its roots. The brand gave attention to luxury materials such as cashmere, alpaca, and camel’s hair. Trench coats were the shining star of the collection; but there were other keepers as well; in particular double-faced cashmere coats, slightly oversized blazers, jackets, pantsuits and satin skirts. Max Mara 今季決定尋根，品牌採用大量如開士 米羊毛、羊駝毛及駱駝毛等奢華衣料吸引衆人視 線。軍用雨衣是品牌的主打明星服飾; 但其他服飾 也不容忽視，尤其是一件雙面開士米羊毛大衣、 大碼運動上衣、夾克、褲子套裝及緞子短裙。
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Mila Schon Schon designed a collection for Fall 2009 that could have come from the wardrobs of Breakfast at Tiffany’s: dowtown Mod girl meets uptown Park Avenue 50s princess. This girl is hip and experimental in her fashion, while wearing traditional emsembles when the occasion demands it. Outerwear included baby doll-shape or fitted coats and fur ponchos. Leggings with oversized sweaters or tops dominated the show and as with other designers, cut-off boots were the mainstay at Schon Fall 2009.
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Missoni
Missoni presented a look for fall 2009 which was a combination of eighties rock with traditional wintery layering. Models wore luxurious cashmere and fur hats and elongated scarves that were draped about the head and shoulders, jackets were worn over dresses or long sweaters. Leggings and high heels finished the look. Last but not least, fingerless gloves accopmanied many of the looks down the runway. The dominant colors for this collection were neutral pallettes of grey, blue and rose. Missoni 的2009秋季服飾糅合80年代搖滾風格以 及傳統冬季層叠設計，展出可以披在頭及膊頭的 奢華的開士米羊毛及毛毛帽子及長領巾、配襯長 裙或長開胸上衣的夾克、襪褲及高跟鞋。最後出 場的模特兒大部分都手帶無指手襪貓步天橋。灰 色、藍色等中性色調及粉紅玫瑰色是系列的主打 色調。
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Moschino Moschino Fall 2009 collection was strong on red and navy. With a definitive 1940’s flair, the military-inspired coats and trenches provided a masculine line with darted waists, creating an ultra feminine allure. Moschino’s coats were wide at the hips and trousers were baggy and high waisted. Moschino 2009秋季系列選用大量紅色及深藍色。 極具40年代風情的軍人款式大衣及軍用雨衣雖然 男性化，但腰部的剪裁風格卻能營造極度女性化 誘惑。Moschino 大衣臀部剪裁濶身而高腰褲子也 屬鬆身之作，令人感覺逍遙自在。
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Moschino C & C
This collection had fun with ruffles on collar, short jackets and huge bows and shirt cuffs. The collection drew atention to the accessories with notable, leather belts and platform shoes. Designer Rosella Jardini presented optical illusions, in the form of 3-dimensional printed ruffles, pencil skirts, voluminous pants, oversized bauble necklace, and Mickey Mouse caps. Overall the collection was inventive and chic. Moschino Cheap & Chic 系列透過領口上的飾 褶、短夾克的設計、大蝴蝶結飾物及恤衫袖口剪 裁為大家帶來注滿玩味的服飾。大家的注意力都 被有趣的飾物，如皮革腰帶及鬆糕鞋虜去。設計 師 Rosella Jardini以 三維印花 飾褶、圓筒剪裁短 裙、濶身褲子、超大碼裝飾形頸鏈及米奇老鼠無 邊便帽為觀衆製造錯視印象。無可否認，今季系 列所有服飾 都屬創新時髦之選。
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NUDE NUDE — MARTA FORGHIERI One of the next generation of design young talented designers Marta Forghieri created a collection containing short, flowing dresses and slim –fit pants, accessorized with headphones. She also created playful short swing dresses over pedal pushers. 屬於我們這個世代的年輕天才設計師 Marta Forghieri 設計 的服飾系列包括飄逸的短裙及窄身褲子；再配以耳筒；活 力四射。模特兒穿上活潑的飄逸長裙推著玩具推車，可愛 萬分。
NUDE — ALESSIA XOCCATO Xoccato is a talented young designer who graduated from the Italian design-school. She has worked with many fashion houses, honing her design skills. Creative Xoccato did an artsy take on tailoring in narrow pants with exaggerated pockets and wavy collared jackets; she also presented hoop-like belts with short colourful dresses. Xoccato 是意大利設計學校畢業的年輕天才 設計師。她曾 經效力多間服飾品牌，鍛煉得一身優良的設計技術。 充滿 創作靈感的 Xoccato 採納現代藝術風格設計綴有誇張口袋 的窄身褲子、綴有波浪領口的夾克以及配有呼拉圈式腰帶 的色彩斑斕的短裙。
NUDE — ALESSIA DE PASQUALE One of the new up-and-coming designers Alessia De Pasquale, who is just 23 years old, presenteda fabulous Men’s wear collection for this season. She took inspiration from the 1950’s, used blue tones and delivered an innovatively proportioned lineup of roomy pants and cropped waistcoats. 時裝設計界師明日之星 Alessia De Pasquale 只有 23 歲，為今個秋冬設計一系列魅力四射的男裝 服飾。設計時的靈感來自上世紀50年代，使用 藍色調作爲系列主色，並為大衆 帶來創新均 衡剪裁的大量濶身褲子及短背心。
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ALESSIA XOCCATO
ALESSIA DE PASQUALE
ALESSIA DE PASQUALE
ALESSIA XOCCATO
ALESSIA DE PASQUALE
ALESSIA XOCCATO
MARTA FORGHIERI
MARTA FORGHIERI
ALESSIA XOCCATO
ALESSIA XOCCATO
MARTA FORGHIERI
MARTA FORGHIERI
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Roberto Cavalli
Half of the Roberto Cavalli’s Fall 2009 collection was inspired by the young Elizabeth Taylor and the other half mirrored the vamp and powerful woman. The designs placed emphasis on the 50s, with musculine and warrior-like, silhouettes. As everyone knows, Cavalli loves colors and in this collection all colors were combined with black. The leading feature of the designs was leather and dresses decorated with studs. The entire collection had fantastic cuts and included sheer pieces, jackets, short wrap skirts and strained silk dresses. Skintight boots that zipped over the leggings was the memorable look of the collection. Roberto Cavalli 2009秋季系列一半靈感來自年輕時代 的 Elizabeth Taylor 而另一半靈感則來自新潮及權力型 女性。設計重點集中於50年代風格，肌肉型及戰士型服 飾觸目可見。衆所周知，Cavalli 喜歡斑斕色調，而本系 列所有色調都以黑色作點綴。品牌最具吸引力的服飾是 綴有窩釘的皮革衣履及長裙 。整個系列剪裁手工優美， 薄身衣履、夾克，披搭式短裙及張力十足的絲質長裙全 都能展示設計師的鬼斧神工。窄身靴子與襪褲的配搭十 分前衛。
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Roberto Musso
Roberto Musso presented a touch of Parisian allure this season. The distinctive range featured rounded edges in the form of “shell” shapes .Musso favoured heavy silk twill with deep, solid colours combined with clean and sharp geometric styles. These graphics were merged to create dresses with brusque lines and sophisticated notions in a mixture of colours from mauve, yellow, emerald greed and cherry to black, Origami-shaped folds outlined the figure and encircled the waist, further enhancing the collection. Roberto Musso 這季表現了巴黎的誘惑。這系列 有圓形的特點，在於邊和角都隔合成“貝殼”的 形狀；顏色的砌圖也表現在厚重的深色真絲斜紋 布，再與精簡分明的幾何圖案給合。平面圖結構 也創造了粗魯而熟練的線條在裙子上。摺紙技術 也用來強調外型和環繞腰部線條。新的姿態也顯 示了淡紫，黃，翠綠和桃紅色在黑色上。
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Roccobarocco Barocco’s design portray a soft feminine woman who easyily combines her feminity with her sense of adventure. Roccobarocco’s collection comprised jackets and skirts trimmed with ruching, embroidery and layers of fabric. He chose mocha, silk and taffeta, in plain and assorted patterns. Dresses demonstrated femininity with figure hugging silhouettes; Turtle necks were the hits of the collection. Barocco 的設計令模特兒搖身一變成爲喜愛刺激 但不失女人味的嬌柔女性。Roccobarocco 展出綴 有褶飾、刺繡及層層布料的夾克及短裙。設計師 更選用鹿皮、絲綢及塔夫綢再配以簡單及多樣化 的圖案廣奪人心。長裙剪裁貼身，最能表現模特 兒女性化一面；樽領上衣是系列最受歡迎服飾。
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Salvatore Ferragamo The designer Cristina Ortiz’s third collection for Salvatore Ferragamo was polished and cultivated. Her emphasis was on good tailoring and quality of materials. Her collection was comprised of vaguely 40s style jackets with hunched shoulders and diagonal cropped bell sleeves worn with pencil skirts or tapered and cropped trousers. Dresses were straplesss or had Sculptural , plunging necklines. 我們只能用優美及高雅這兩個形容詞形容設計師 Cristina Ortiz 第三次為 Salvatore Ferragamo 設 計的服飾系列。設計師把重點放在巧手剪裁技術 及高品質布料。短膊設計夾克及配襯圓筒設計短 裙或上濶下窄短褲的對角剪裁短泡泡袖子隱約透 出40年代的風格。長裙不是無肩帶設計，就是結 構性的低領口設計。
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Sportmax Sportmax is ahead of its competition. The brand has become edgier, more fashion forward. The Sportmax woman is a mature member of the digital generation. With exaggrated shoulders and tiny waists, the designs remind us of the 1980s, but remain ultramodern with the use of leather and narrow belts. Sportmax 領導今季潮流，變得更加前衛、更加時尚。 Sportmax 女士是電子世代的成熟一分子。誇張的膊頭 及纖腰剪裁設計令人仿佛回到上世紀80年代，但皮革服 飾及幼身腰帶卻滲出極度摩登風格。
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Stefanel Stefanel presented a sophiscated and confident woman on the runway. An earthy palette permeated the collection of loose fitting sweaters and flowing jersey fabric providing a relaxed, chic look, Asymmetric necklines on one-piece body contour dresses marked an alternative look to the rest of the collection. Tight-fitting jersey pants in monochrome with jersey top presented a conservative yet sexy style. Dark cyan, pale yellow and metallic colours complemented the prevalent earthy tones. Stefanel 於這系列展現了一個熟練和自信的女性。泥土色調充分應用在鬆身的針織衫，流動的平針織布 給予一個時尚輕鬆的外表，亦同時與金屬色明顯線條的管裙裝形成對比。貼身裙不對稱的肩帶帶來另類 的感覺。單色調的緊身平針織襪褲和平針織上衣顯得既保守又性感。此外深湖藍色，淡黃色和金屬色也 為泥土色調系列添上點綴。
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Chicca Luald’s Beequeen Young talent Italian designer Chicca Lualdi’s BeeQueen line was a coherent and chic collection of white and beige dresses with graceful collars and fur jackets, trimmed with organza ruffles. The collection was a melange of delicate and pure tones; smooth and luminous colors (white, pale blue), and feminine tones (powder pink, grey, light beige). The colors compliment materials the lurex and metallic fibers. 意大利天才年輕設計師 Chicca Lualdi的BeeQueen 系列展出飾有精巧領口的白色及淡黃色長裙以及綴有 薄紗飾褶的毛毛夾克，充滿協調 及時髦感覺。設計師選用雅緻及純色調、柔和及光滑色調 (白色、淺藍 色)以及女性化色調 (嫩粉紅色、灰色、淺黃色)，風格徊異。設計師採用的色調與金銀紗及金屬纖維質料 配搭得宜。
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Valeria Marini Fashion designer Valeria Marini has created very stylish silhouettes for the new season by looking to the smoky atmosphere of Moulin Rouge for her sexy dresses and feathered hats. She paraded colourful dresses and sequined trousers, topped with capes embroidered with paillettes for her collection. Scarlet shimmer high heels and underwears, whole collection seems very hot and sexy. 時裝設計師 Valeria Marini 以性感長裙及羽毛帽子營造紅磨坊式的煙霧彌漫印象為今季創造時髦剪影。 設計師命令模特兒穿上色彩繽紛的長裙及釘珠褲子配以釘上珠片的斗篷貓步天橋。光滑的紅色高跟鞋及 内衣令整個服飾系列性感熱力四射。
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Albino The Albino Fall 2009 collection was grey with hints of gold, reflecting the color theme for this season. The silhouette was classic, with cinched-in waist, fitted skirts and wide shoulders. Oversized jackets were worn over fitted skinny pants. There was an occassional glimpse of leopard print which stood out in the predominantly grey themed collection. Albino 2009秋季系列以點點金色襯托主打的灰色調，屬本季最流行色彩。修腰窄身短裙及濶膊設計意念 經典。超大碼夾克與窄身褲子的配搭新潮。設計師以豹紋印花穿插主調 灰色的系列，感覺新鮮。
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Alviero Martini Italian designer Alviero Martini, who’s known for his map motif Designs was entirely inspired by the 70’s for his new fall collection. He designed elegant, sober clothes with impressive details. Martini preferred to use delicate colours, such as pale, brown and navy blue and used masculine fabrics such as tweed. 意大利設計師 Alviero Martini 以地圖圖案聞名于世。設計師為今秋設計的服飾靈感顯然來自70年代， 所以設計出綴有令人驚嘆細節的優雅樸素服飾。Martini 喜愛選用淺色、棕色及深藍色等雅緻色調及花 呢等 男性化布料為品牌鼎立鮮明形象。
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Antonio Marras Antonio Marras captured a 1930s silhouette with a moody feminine tone. Swathes of embroidery demonstrated a return to handicraft. A dusty pink long flowing dress in sheer silk was reminiscent of vintage elegance, while an A line dark maroon checked skirt presented a classic school girl look. The collection featured soft pastel colours, interspersed with crimson red silky dresses. A black, deep V, knee length, dress that was cinched at the waist highlighted the tone of the collection. Antonio Marras 展現了1930年代幽暗女性的形態。大塊兒的精巧裝飾表現出精緻手工的努力。灰粉紅色 的全長絲散裙引出懷舊的高貴，而Ａ型線條的栗紅色格仔裙則顯出經典校園感覺。這系列充滿了溫柔的 粉色，令深紅色的絲裙成為點綴。黑色低胸，及膝的中腰裙加強了這個系列的感覺。
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Aquilano Rimondi The talented twosome Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, who were the design team at Gianfranco Ferre, created an architectural femininity for their label Quilano e Rimondi. The fall collection consisted of fluid dresses and flowing pants, fringing, sequins, Lurex and layered necklaces. The Aquilano e Rimondi woman has fun reinventing her wardrobe every season she likes to experiment.
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Brioni This established signature Italian label presented a Fall 2009 collection that was a smorgasborg of contradictions between classic traditional femininity and futuristic minimalism.The silhouettes ranged from clean-cut lines accentuated by monochrome colors to ultra-feminine curves with waists cinched-in by double-buckled belts and emphasized by wide-shoulder jackets. Uber –luxurious materials of fur, wool, silk and jersey were combined to create contrasts in color, shine and feel. The runway was flooded with looks of 80s power chic, accessorized with high platform shoes and long elbow-length gloves.
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Carla Carini Red, black and white are the three main colors used in the Carini Fall 2009 collection. The collection was comprised mainly of evening wear, with off the shoulder, cinched waist, and loose-fitting pieces. Taffeta added shape and stiffness to the silhouette. A white halter top-oants emsemble stood out as a modern classic. 紅色、黑色及白色是Carini 2009秋季系列的三種主要色調。時裝展主要展出跌膊、修腰及鬆身的晚禮服。 塔夫綢為服飾剪影帶來堅挺感覺。白色露背背心套裝透出摩登經典風尚。
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Clips The Clips woman has an elegant, sophisticated and provocative style. She gets in the mood with miniskirts worn under Spencer jackets. Pancho coats and pencil skirts add a magnificent touch to early evening wear. The eveningwear dresses drape delicately over the body, while diamonds accentuate the shoulders and wiastlines. Clips女性擁有優雅、精巧及令人興奮的風格。模特兒穿上迷你短裙配以針織短夾克，青春逼人。套頭大 衣及圓筒短裙為積雞尾酒晚禮服帶來全新風格。披搭式晚禮服長裙令您搖曵生姿；而鑽石最能突出您膊 頭及腰部的纖巧綫條。
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CNC The fashion designer Ennio Capasa was inspired by the digital generation and created a younger line for Fall 09/10. There were leather trousers, coats, jumpsuits with asymmetrical zippers, capri pants and biker jackets in leather, suede, wool and lurex, especially designed for streetwear.
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Debora Sinibaldi Sinibalds Fall 2009 line is feminine and girly with a dark edge. Pretty and youthful looking short dresses made of sequins and feathers were in black and dark blue. lending a more serious feel to the girly feminine look. Long and elegant pants and functional sleeveles top were also pravalent in the collection. Occassionally there is a dress or two piece emsemble of to and skirts which is modern and geometric in the silhouette and choice of fabric print. In keeping with the 80 trend of this season, high platform pointy shoes worn with black leggings finish the look for Sinibaldi Fall 2009. 紅色、黑色及白色是Carini 2009秋季系列的三種主要色調。 時裝展主要展出跌膊、修腰及鬆身的晚禮 服。塔夫綢為服飾剪影帶來堅挺感覺。白色露背背心套裝透出摩登經典風尚。
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Fendi Karl Lagerfeld took us on a trip to female empowerment while reminding us of the Middle Ages with his Fall 09/10 collection. The models strutted down catwalks with cold expressions, enrobed in mink and sable coats, with silhouettes of bulky shoulders, accentuated with furs and leather bustiers. Lagerfeld paraded high-waisted bubble skirts, t-shirts with leather yokes, and draped knit dresses in darj colors.Knee-high boots were a highlight of the show.
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Gabriele Colangelo Continuing the minimal lines that he started last season, Italian designer Gabriela Colangelo perefered to be futuristic this time around. By incorporating embroidery and fur into his designs, he successfully created a new look. He added movement to the rigorous silhouettes by using vertical lines created by micro-accordion pleats. Colangelo also emphasized the waists with obi belts and he designed feminine twists made of wool that were adorned with Japanese beadings and small couvettes. 意大利設計師 Gabriela Colangelo 延繼上一季的簡約綫條設計，在今季加上未來設計風。透過注入刺 繡及毛毛布料元素，設計師成功創立一個全新形象。百褶的直綫剪裁為服飾帶來前所未有的節奏動感。 Colangelo 以和服腰帶突出腰部綫條，並以綴有日本風格珠子及細小珠片的羊毛服飾展現女性化魅力。
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Gaetano Navarra The theme behind the Gaetano Navarra’s designs was “austere elegance” and comprised closet esssentials such as blouses, jackets, trousers, skirts and dresses. He played with materials and focused on details to accentuate his austere philosophy.Navarra used velvet and georgette in natural colours including black, midnight blue, grey, silver and camel tones. Pagoda shoulders and sculpted skirts were the most impressive designs of the collection. Gaetano Navarra的設計主題爲“簡樸優雅”，包含女裝恤衫，夾克，褲子，短裙及長裙等衣櫥必備服裝。 設計師運用不同布料及細節強調其簡樸哲學。黑色、午夜藍色、灰色、銀色及駱駝色等自然色調絲絨及喬 治紗可以縫製出意向不到的服飾。塔形剪裁膊頭及結構性剪裁的短裙是設計師最令人驚嘆的服飾設計。
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Jo No Fui Alessia Giacobino’s Jo No Fui fall collection has simple shapes meet high concept, with success. The collection reminded us of the 80’s, with high-waisted trousers, twin sets, flowery dresses and the use of leather, wool and organza. Dresses decorated with tassels were also reminescent of Pocahantes. Alessia Giacobino 的 Jo No Fui 秋季系列款式剪裁簡單與高格調設計獲得空前成功。品牌的高腰褲子、 套裝、印花長裙及以皮革、羊毛及薄紗縫製的服飾令人回味80年代風格。綴有流蘇的長裙喚起大家對 Pocahantes 的回憶。
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Love Sex Money Designer Lorella Signorino continues to perfect her craft with every new collection. This Season, she gave her attention to shoulders, moulding them into diminutive cloud-shapes. Dresses were presented in a mixture of fabrics and were adorned with glittering jewellery, gemstones and fur. The range, which stood out with black, grey and metallic colors. Also included pencil skirts and padder jackets.
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Luciano Soprani Luciano Soprani died in 1999, the brand is now headed by Alessandro Turci, who takes a futuristic approach to costume design. He succesfully combined the shiny fabrics with well-tailored design. The idea behind the collection was “urban glamour” with long, fluid dresses, pastel coloured architectural silhouettes and three piece outfits. Luciano Soprani 於1999年逝世，品牌現在由喜歡採用未來設計風格的 Alessandro Turci 掌陀。設計師以 光滑布料配搭貼身剪裁技術成功設計令人喜愛的服飾。品牌系列以飄逸長裙、剪裁富結構性柔和淡色調 衣履及三件頭套裝帶出今季主題 “都市魅力”。
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Normaluisa Normaluisa is a mysterious and intelligent fashion designer, who has a partnership with Kartell, so her latest collection was adorned with plastic necklaces and other accessories. The silhouettes of the designs created a feminine and romantici image. Tunics, jackets, 80s style dresses were all layered with rich fabrics yet maintained modern look.
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Paola Frani Paola Frani designed an extraordinary collection for winter 09/10. The well-tailored pieces paid homage to the classic woman with an edgy, modern twist. Frani chose velvet jersey with metallic details for her tunics and dresses. The collection also included draping skirts and high waisted, classically tailored pantsuits, spencer jackets and boleros. The designs were awash in a variety of colors from bronze, gold and silver, to a deep tourquise. Paola Frani 為09/10冬季 設計非一般的服飾系列。剪裁精巧的服飾最適合前衛、摩登及經典形象集於一 身的女性。Frani 選用絲絨平針織布料及金屬細節縫製束腰外衣及長裙，而披搭式短裙及經典款式剪裁精 巧的高腰褲子套裝、針織短夾克及短上衣，必有一款是您喜愛的。古銅色、金色及銀色以及深藍綠色就 是品牌今季主打色調。
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Simonetta Ravizza Top Italian designer Simonetta Ravizza perfectly mixed fur with strong colors to create a fabulous line-up. The collection was created for the modern, feminine, attractive woman who embraces life with a positive and daring attitude.and included classic fur jackets, fur maxi vests and fur capes. Ravizza infused her designs with natural colors such as black, grey, and brown. She also used lemon yellow, ruby red, and dark blue for the younger generation. The pieces were made of mink, chinchilla, sable or fox. Jackets were short and the caps were asymetrically cut The accessories comprised fur hats and gem studded cuffs. 頂級意大利設計師 Simonetta Ravizza 精心結合毛毛布料與 強烈色調創造令人興奮的服飾系列。設計師 為擁有正面大膽生命態度兼吸引力滿瀉充滿女人味的摩登女性設計毛毛夾克、毛毛長背心及毛毛斗篷等 經典服飾。Ravizza 為設計注入黑色、灰色及棕色等自然色調；卻不忘為年輕的品牌擁護者選用檸檬黃 色、紅寶石色及深藍色的色彩縫製衣履。以水貂皮、栗鼠皮、貂皮或狐狸縫製的短夾克、不規制剪裁的 毛毛帽子以及鑲滿寶石的袖口奢華萬分，令人一見難忘。
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Ter Et Bantine Creative Director Manuela Arcari produced a modern and minimalistic winter collection for Ter et Bantine. making it immediately apparent that Scandinavian and Italian styles influenced the designs. Ter et Bantine’s range included, sharp geometrical cuts, high-waisted trousers, mini skirts and short dresses.all worn with flat shoes. The preferred colors were beige, black, nude and gray; the fabrics were jersey, wool, leather and knits.
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Valentin Yudashkin Yudashkin, like many of the other designers, combine traditional and modern styles. Slim silouettes were paired with pointy, space-age shoulders and high necklines were accentuated through the use of gossamer. Yudashkin also used a mix of fur leather and metallic sequins to produce a collection that was classically feminine.
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Zuhair Murad Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad’s new range was fanciful, feminine and luxurious. Red, platinium and green were the dominant colors interspersed with ivory designs with rosette and floral details. The collection effused red carpet glamour with its array of lavish gowns and coctail dresses.
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Versace Donatella Versace derived inspiration from the 80,s and created a range that paid homage to the “powerful, strong, confident woman�. Versace worked with varying shades of metallics for many of her pieces, with the exception of the chiffon and silk jersey dresses that came in brilliant colours including aquamarine and emerald, Sophisticated glamour was achieved through the use of sequins, thigh- high splits, superskinny cargo pants, decorated trenches, leather bomber jackets and tailored trousers. Silver bukles, belts and double-platform highheeled shoes completed the look for Versac’ s Fall/Winter collection.
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Paul Smith This season is about classic English elegance. The regimental shapes and earthy colour of men’s traditional military tailoring is juxtaposed with Indian jewel hues and tinted rose prints, hinting at an old majestic grandeur. A feminine but bold silhouette adds a modern edge to the more masculine theme. A neat silk cashmere cardigan worn with a voluminous airy skirt adds definition to the figure. Paul Smith 的典雅英倫為軍團式的土色傳統軍 服,混入印度寶石色調和玫瑰印花,威嚴非常。加 點女性化大膽的輪廓，成為富有時代感的男性氣 慨，端莊整齊的羊絨上衣和輕薄的短裙更能突出 體態。
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Twenty 8 Twelve Described as “Pirates of the road meets Grace Jones”, the Millers showed a collection from grunge to glam. The spray-on stretch jeans, the padded-shoulder T-shirts, the slouchy beanies, and the downbeat washed-out color, everything is what a standard girl wants. Miller 姊妹的展出髒亂而具魅力.她們稱為“當海盜 遇上姬斯鐘斯”的秋冬服裝。噴花彈性牛仔褲、加 墊肩部的襯衫、無精打采的便帽和那悲觀的褪色色 調都受一般女子青睞。
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Ashish Ashish captured the idea of depression era carnivals, the American Wild West and Liberace in the form of vivid colors, pom poms ,sequins and more sequins. From animal print leggings in every single colour to sequined trousers. American flag gloves and garments, Ashish’s girls are destined to make an entrance. Ashish 意念瘋狂，用了金屬珠片、富魅力的運動服，和更多的金屬珠片，周遊於大蕭條時代的嘉年華會、 蠻荒的美國西部和李柏瑞斯的時代。他以擁有各種單色動物花紋、釘滿珠片的連身褲，以至美國國旗手套 服裝，使他的少女注定使人入迷。
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Betty Jackson Betty Jackson’s simple silhouettes and cosy-colored palette, illustrated either innocence or a surreal mind. Loose tops with knee length skirts in heavy knit, oversized coats, or floral printed separates all perfect for a relaxing day in the city. Betty Jackson 以簡單的輪廓和舒適的色彩，使人有純真的聯想，或者引發超現實的想像。寬鬆的針織上 身配及膝裙、特大外套、甚至單件印花裙，都是城市生活裡閒暇時的理想衣着。
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Bora Aksu “60s couture dresses, nomads, underwear” were the inspiration for the collection. It was the feminine look with a darker twist not only from the color palette of dark blues, green, blacks, and grays, but also from a felling of daring elegance. Transparent panels, raincoats, bow-ties and shirtdresses revealed what Aksu called “feminine with a tough edge”. 六十年代的時尚女裝,遊牧民族,內衣服裝都是這季 Aksu 創作擁有女性隱秘一面的靈感。深藍、黑和灰的 色調加上富冒險性的優雅。透明與金屬色、雨衣與堡呔跟連身襯衫都展現了Aksu 所說剛強的女性。
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Caroline Charles Caroline Charle said this collection is “suited for challenging times” Chocolate brown and tan supple leather. Animal print wrap dresses and blouses in chiffon and silk. Each look is toughened up with elasticized leather belts. Caroline Charles形容他今季的作品「切合挑戰的時」。朱古力棕色和曬軟的皮革，動物印花圍巾裙及絲 質雪纺短衫… 每個造型都加上彈性皮帶，令人看起來硬挺得多。
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Charles Anastase Charles Anastase showed us that city girls with a rock accent exhibit a multitude of styles. The look included a tangle of chains and ropes, face paint, graffiti-style tops and leggings and an eclectic mix of colors and textures. Charles Anastase 展現城市女性帶點搖滚味道，卻又具有多面個性.她們一下子下身穿得透明，以鎖鏈和 繩子縛紮，臉上繪上圖案，一下子卻正正經經地穿着印有幾何圖案的連身裙。
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Giles The show started with eighties supermodel Rachel Williams in a gray flannel bustier dress with shearing gauntlets. Few would recognize that the circular leather skirt came from his graduate show, It was a collection dedicated to Deacon’s happy days at St. Martins back in 1992. 穿上灰色法蘭絨 緊身上衣和羊毛長手套的八十年代模特兒 Rachel Williams 先為 Giles 開幕。她手握鎖鏈 像要恐嚇甚麼似的。小數人會認出那圓形皮革短裙是本自他的畢業展, 這個時裝展給92年他在 St. Martin 的快樂時光。
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Graeme Black A visit to the gem stones at British Natural History Museum inspired a collection featuring Andradite, Hessonite and Heliodor. Cocoons of rough textures in hand printed cashmere, leather or fur open to reveal flashes of opulence – striated feathers, crystals and metallic embroidery, and geological samples printed on stretchy cotton and duchesse satin all caught up in Graeme Black’s organic new edge. 遊走一趟英國自然歷史博物館內的岩石,就啟發出一連串鈣鐵石榴石、紅榴石和貓眼石的時裝展。不論是 手印粗糙的繭羊絨、皮革或毛皮都顯示 Graeme Black 的奢華風尚。羽毛條紋、水晶、金屬線刺繡，繼而 是印有地質樣本花樣的彈性棉和公爵緞，都是他有機的新穎角度。
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Margaret Howell Howell’s girl next door appeared with a fresh look this spring with details from a gentleman’s wardrobe: monogrammed shirts, evening scarves with tassels and rose pink silk. 這個秋季，Howell 的大方得體的少女，穿上男裝衣櫃裡的細緻衣飾，包括花押字的襯衫、流蘇的晚會圍 巾和玫瑰粉色的絲緞。
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Issa Issa’s collection is one of those look like a moment of the 80s.The decade’s confident boldness could be traced through the zebra-print blouson, the fire-engine red blouse and cherry skirt, the jumpsuit with beaded zebra-patterned bodice and straps, and the graphic black and white tunic over leggings. However, Daniella Helayel had actually been looking at monks’ robes! She is definitely trying to tell an interesting story. 無獨有偶，Issa的表演也有八十年代的特色。當年大無畏而自 信的本色顯然易見 : 班馬紋的束腰上衣、消防紅色短衫、櫻桃襯 衫、跳傘裝釘上班馬紋的上衣和皮帶、生動的黑白束腰外衣配 毛線褲。雖然 Daniella Helayel 竟在研究 修士的長袍,她也熱衷 於說有趣的故事。
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Julien Macdonald With Jamey Hargreaves as the new backer, Julien Macdonald is putting himself through fashion rehab and represent the most serious collection so far. His twist of taste from the “rock chick superglamour” brought us inventive, slightly punky laddered knitwear. After all he was the talented knitter who made that look fashionable in the early nineties. Super-shouldered, Montana-esque biker looks, underpinned by his own spiderweb knits, looked sharp, controlled, and well executed enough to persuade skeptics to take a second glance. Julien Macdonald 得到新贊助人的支持，正處在時裝康復期,並推出至今最認真的作品 : 從更新的“rock chick super-glamour”到創造力豐富加上少許龐克的梯狀針織物。他始終是才華出眾，他的針織品曾在 九十年代風靡一時。高墊膊、蒙大拿的摩托車騎士造型，配今自製的蜘蛛網針織，看來又鮮明又有序。 絕對能 說服持懷疑態度的人另眼相看。
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Luella Luella Bartley gave her punky, schoolgirly, military look a tag “Cute utilitarianism”. The girls marched out as if they were going to the prom via junior cadet corps. If it was less clashingly bright than her outstanding Summer collection, it was just as assured and detailed with lots of gold zips, buttons, and hook-and-eye fastenings, and essentially based around the same template of short dresses and neat little suits that won her British Designer of the Year last November. Luella Bartley 將她龐克、學生、軍人式的造型稱為“可愛的功利主義”。模特兒像軍訓隊員邁步進入 學校舞會。就算今季色彩不及春夏系列的强烈對比，那許多金色拉鍊、鈕扣、領扣襯着短裙和整齊的套 裝，仍為她贏得 British Designer of the Year。
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Nathan Jenden As “Frostbite” as the theme, the collection was mostly black, fitted, and folded to the body. A fishnet body stocking was the foundation for a zippered dress whose precise folds looked like origami. On top of the bandage dress, other eighties touches include the huge zips and the multi-pleated pants tapering to the ankle. Nathan Jenden“凍傷”為題,成就了主打漆黑,修身和摺疊出的服裝 : 魚網長襪配上精確摺出全身裙，繃 帶裙，還有其他八十年代的特徵，包括巨型拉鍊和修到足踝的百褶褲。
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Noir Depicted in a mix of masculine and feminine stylse, matt and shiny, slim and voluminous, and overt versus understated, NOIR delivered a collection inspired by French actress, Catherine Deneuve’s cool composure and aristocratic air in the film ‘The Hunger’. The stream of long lean silhouettes with sleek trousers, high-waisted skirt and signature leather leggings surprised us with the occasional flowing feminine dress. Noir 的秋冬時裝展揉合了男子氣慨和女性的嬌柔，暗淡和光滑的對比，苗條中有寬鬆。靈感來自著名電 影中擁有貴族氣派的法國酷藝人 Catherine Deneuve。一連串的高腰裙，窄身長褲和皮革褲，一下子被一 條女人味十足的長裙畫破了修身的輪廓。
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Paul Costelloe Featuring a colour palette of rich emeralds, grape and terracotta through to resplendent golds and silvers, this season for Paul Costelloe is bold, evoking images of the glamorous ladies of the late 60’ s and 70’s who resided on Park Avenue, New York. With chunky zips, hooped hems and exposed panels, it is a show of sidewalk confidence. 以綠寶石，葡萄和赤土作為主色，與金銀閃耀着。Paul Costelloe 塑造了六、七十年代居住在紐約 Park Avenune，無拘無束的淑女。穿着特大拉鍊，加了裙環的縫邊,露出的裁條，自信地在行人路上踏步。
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Sinha Stanic Sinha Stanic’s Aleksandar Stanic and Fiona Sinha, concentrated on 19 draped dresses and one pantsuit for Fall. It’s those expertly placed tucks and folds, strategically positioned to “minimize the hip and flatter where it matters—and make it modern,” said Sinha, that women always respond to. This compact little collection is said just as well be worn by day as evening. Sinha Stanic 和拍檔憑着19條垂掛式全身裙和1副套裝送上這次秋季展。他們巧妙地將布料用在戰略性的 部位,達到縮細臀部、修平胸部的效果，營造時代感。這簡潔的20套服飾日夜都適用。
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Todd Lynn Lynn has an obsession on pants. For Fall, they came impossibly lean and long, in leather, wool, and velvet; paired with equally fitted jackets, their attenuated silhouette is supported by second-skin leather turtlenecks. The final outfits—a white satin cutaway tux over a white leather body, the same in black—played like the angel and devil on Lynn’s shoulders.. Lynn總是鍾情於褲子，這秋季它們變得難以想像地修長，有皮革，羊毛和絲絨。配上同樣修身的外衣和 貼身皮製高領毛衣，產生了瘦長的輪廓。最後兩套分別一黑一白的皮蓋身形及緞子常晚禮服，似是Lynn 肩上的天使與魔鬼。
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Topshop Unique A bit of intergalactic futurism in the shape of black shiny leggings, mixed up with oversize eighties coat shapes with giant lapels, and some great sequined sweatpants and cowl-hooded sweatshirts. Made up this season’s collection. Hair with braided with ribbons and the glow sticks .Jacqui Markham’s range brought us back to the wonder of the eighties and early nineties. 銀河末來主義變成了金屬皮革、束腰外衣和連身夜褲、特大的八十年代外套及巨型翻領，還有一流的釘 珠運動褲和頭巾帽，長袖衫。頭上的絲帶髮辮和螢光棒更體現着 rave 文化。不論你還未出生或者末到緬 懐過去的年齡，Jacqui Markham 總把人帶回八十’九十年代初的美妙情懐，使人回味。
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Vivienne Westwood Having moved the show back to London two seasons ago, Westwood wants to prove that British culture is never boring and ever inventive. The schoolgirls from British cartoonist Ronald Searle’s infamous book St Trinian’s were brought to life with blazers, boyfriend cardigans, rugby shirts, blanket coat and classic asymmetric cape in tweed for the English winter. 自兩季前，Westswood 把 Red Label 搬回倫敦展 出，正要證明英國文化並不沈間,反而是日新月異， 充滿創作力。英國漫畫家 Ronald Searle’s 著作 St
Trinian’s 內的女生，搖身一變穿上運動上衣、少男羊 毛背心、欖球球衣、絨毯布外套,再穿上經典的不對 稱心呢披肩，迎接英國的冬日。
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