Urban Food Tales: Khau Gallis of Gujarat

URBAN FOOD TALES KHAU GALLIS OF GUJARAT

Rutvi Gajjar 143561050011 Guide Prof. dr. Mansee Bal Bhargava 2019 Undergraduate Thesis SAL School of Architecture, Ahmedabad

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GRADUATE PROGRAMME IN ARCHITECTURE STUDENT NAME: RUTVI GAJJAR

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THESIS TITLE: URBAN FOOD TALES: KHAU GALLIS OF GUJARAT

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URBAN FOOD TALES KHAU GALLIS OF GUJARAT

Abstract

Food streets have always been an integral part of the Indian culture in its own ways. Also, there are many reasons leading to the endurance of such food streets which maintain the public realm in the city by creating urban spaces. These food streets are the living heritage which is growing old with the city. The research began with an inquiry into understanding the nature of Khau Gallis and how it become an integral part of the city, also to understand its importance to a city. It was triggered by the observations of the changing food streets of Ahmedabad with the onsets of food courts and online food delivery system. The research was narrowed down to the physical and social characters of the food streets as they cover up all the data necessary to take into consideration. The case studies of the Khau Gallis of Gujarat has been undertaken to analyse this characters and to understand how this living heritage resource revive the local heritage and culture.

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Preface and Acknowledgement

Food and shelter have been long considered two of the most basic human necessities. After living in Ahmedabad and frequently visiting Manek Chowk, I was fascinated by the idea of how food streets unite humankind and becomes an identity of the city. Across India, street vending of snacks and small meals is growing in popularity, coinciding with a rise of food stalls at every corner of the city. After observing this I was more inclined to know about the relationship of food and urban spaces and how the idea of food streets evolved.

Thus this dissertation is an attempt to understand the nature of Khau Gallis across the state of Gujarat and how it helps in maintaining the public realm in the city.

Firstly, I thank Prof. dr. Mansee Bal Bhargava for her guidance and support. I am grateful for all the discussions and feedbacks that I have received from her during the course and for showing me the similarities between a thesis and life itself.

I thank my parents and family who trusted me and helped me countless times throughout my college journey. The encouragement they gave when the times got tough is much appreciated and duly noted.

This work would not have been possible without the support of S.A.L. School of Architecture. I thank all my teachers for all the help during this journey.

Lastly, I thank my friends Devanshi Patel, Raj Modi and Mayur Vala for their motivation and faith in me. Thanks for discussing all my ideas and thoughts about the project which obviously helped me in evolving my idea further. I also thank all my other friends: Rini Joshi, Nitya Shah, Divya Patel, Shravan Patel, Harsh Patel and Akash Patel for all the fun time, thus I have completed a journey.

I offer my regards and blessings to all, who supported me in any respect during the completion of the thesis.

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Contents Abstract................................................................................................................................ i Preface and Acknowledgement ....................................................................................... iii Contents .............................................................................................................................. v List of Figures, Tables and Boxes ...................................................................................vii 1.

Introduction ................................................................................................................ 1 Background ............................................................................................................. 1 Theoretical Understanding ...................................................................................... 2 Methodology Approach ........................................................................................... 2

2.

3.

1.1.

Scope and Limitation ............................................................................................... 4

1.2.

Rationale for Intervention ....................................................................................... 4

1.3.

Structure of the Thesis............................................................................................. 5

Food and Urban Spaces ............................................................................................. 7 2.1.

Outline .................................................................................................................... 7

2.2.

Relationship of Food and Urban Spaces ................................................................... 7

2.3.

Food and Indian Culture .........................................................................................14

2.4.

Food Tales of Gujarat .............................................................................................23

2.5.

Parameters for Analysing .......................................................................................26

Methodology ............................................................................................................. 29 3.1.

Outline ...................................................................................................................29

3.2.

Research Approach .................................................................................................29

3.3.

Literature Study......................................................................................................29

3.4.

Pilot Case Study ......................................................................................................31

3.5.

Fieldwork ...............................................................................................................32

3.6.

Schedule of Thesis ..................................................................................................34

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4.

3.7.

Pilot Case Study – Manek Chowk ........................................................................... 34

3.7.

Theoretical Framework .......................................................................................... 49

Nani Khau Galli, Anand ......................................................................................... 53 5.1. Documentation of Parameters .................................................................................... 53

5.

Supermarket Raatri Bazar, Jamnagar .................................................................. 67 6.1. Documentation of Parameters .................................................................................... 67

6.

Conclusion ................................................................................................................ 83 6.1.

About the Study .................................................................................................... 83

6.2.

Key Findings .......................................................................................................... 83

6.3.

Learning ................................................................................................................ 85

6.4.

Way Forward ......................................................................................................... 86

References ......................................................................................................................... 87 Annexure........................................................................................................................... 91 Annex 4.1........................................................................................................................... 91 Annex 5.1........................................................................................................................... 94

About the Author ............................................................................................................... 1

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List of Figures, Tables and Boxes List of Figures Figure 1-1 Research Triangle ........................................................................................................................... 2 Figure 2-1 National Food Truck Day ............................................................................................................... 7 Figure 2-2 Outdoor food spaces ....................................................................................................................... 8 Figure 2-3 Different events in the Plaza .......................................................................................................... 9 Figure 2-4 Night Markets in the Plaza ........................................................................................................... 10 Figure 2-5 Illustration of ancient street .......................................................................................................... 10 Figure 2-6 Social dinning in public space ...................................................................................................... 11 Figure 2-7 Food markets at night ................................................................................................................... 12 Figure 2-8 Food Streets .................................................................................................................................. 13 Figure 2-9 Food Courts .................................................................................................................................. 13 Figure 2-10 Market outside mosque .............................................................................................................. 14 Figure 2-11 People enjoying food on the street ............................................................................................. 15 Figure 2-12 Kittlis and pan parlours at street corners .................................................................................... 16 Figure 2-13 Indian shopping streets ............................................................................................................... 17 Figure 2-14 Indian streets .............................................................................................................................. 17 Figure 2-15 Famous Khau Gallis of India ..................................................................................................... 18 Figure 2-16 Khau Gallis ................................................................................................................................. 19 Figure 2-17 Food stalls on the streets ............................................................................................................ 20 Figure 2-18 Chaat walla’s on the streets ........................................................................................................ 20 Figure 2-19 Food vendors in the market ........................................................................................................ 21 Figure 2-20 Food activities ............................................................................................................................ 22 Figure 2-21 Cuisine of Gujarat ...................................................................................................................... 23 Figure 2-22 Map of Gujrat showing all the Khau Gallis ............................................................................... 25 Figure 3-1 Research Framework .................................................................................................................... 30 Figure 3-2 Map of Gujarat with cities of field work and pilot study highlighted .......................................... 32 Figure 3-3 Location of Manek Chowk ........................................................................................................... 35 Figure 3-4 Timeline of Manek Chowk .......................................................................................................... 37 Figure 3-5 Map showing activities in Manek Chowk at night ....................................................................... 38 sFigure 3-6 Evolution of Manek Chowk........................................................................................................ 39 Figure 3-7 Street Section; the yellow highlight shows the place of the sketch below ................................... 40 Figure 3-8 Pedestrian and loading vehicles using the same street ................................................................. 40 Figure 3-9 Map showing different street dimensions .................................................................................... 41 Figure 3-10 Food stalls use plastics to cover the sitting area......................................................................... 42 Figure 3-11 Vendors use plastics for shade ................................................................................................... 42 Figure 3-12 Street Elevation .......................................................................................................................... 43 Figure 3-13 Street Ratio ................................................................................................................................. 43 Figure 3-14Street Elevation ........................................................................................................................... 43

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Figure 3-15 Staggering skyline created by pol houses ................................................................................... 44 Figure 3-16 Rich heritage buildings with food stalls hoardings .................................................................... 44 Figure 3-17 The food vendors hang their hoardings on the shop shutters ..................................................... 45 Figure 3-18 Traditional architecture buildings............................................................................................... 46 Figure 3-19 Vegetable hawkers at the entrance of the street ......................................................................... 48 Figure 3-20 Street Section with light pole ..................................................................................................... 48 Figure 3-21 (i.) Map showing pause points (ii.) Map showing accessibility ................................................. 49 Figure 4-1 Figure Ground of Anand with Khau Galli highlighted ................................................................ 54 Figure 4-2 Street section ................................................................................................................................ 54 Figure 4-3 Placement of tables in front of stall .............................................................................................. 55 Figure 4-4 Fence as a boundary ..................................................................................................................... 55 Figure 4-5 Nani Khau Galli Plan................................................................................................................... 56 Figure 4-6 Wall as a boundary ....................................................................................................................... 57 Figure 4-7 Bamboo Joinery ............................................................................................................................ 57 Figure 4-8 Concrete columns and bamboo sticks are used for the framework .............................................. 58 Figure 4-9 Street section with dimensions .................................................................................................... 58 Figure 4-10 Stalls placed on both the sides .................................................................................................... 59 Figure 4-11 Placement of stalls and seating area ........................................................................................... 59 Figure 4-12 Street section with all dimensions .............................................................................................. 60 Figure 4-13 Concrete columns in line ............................................................................................................ 60 Figure 4-14 Tea stall and Pan Parlour ............................................................................................................ 61 Figure 4-15 Garment shop.............................................................................................................................. 61 Figure 4-16 Wire fencing at the end............................................................................................................... 62 Figure 4-17 Holes in the fencing .................................................................................................................... 62 Figure 4-18 Street elevation ........................................................................................................................... 64 Figure 4-19 Vegetable Vendor ....................................................................................................................... 65 Figure 4-20 Kadhiyawadi Lassi Stall ............................................................................................................. 65 Figure 4-21 People enjoying Chaat ................................................................................................................ 66 Figure 5-1 Figure Ground of Jamnagar with Khau Galli highlighted ............................................................ 68 Figure 5-2 Placement of tables in front of houses .......................................................................................... 69 Figure 5-3 Food vendors in front of the colonial building ............................................................................. 69 Figure 5-4 Street Section with stalls and sitting facilities .............................................................................. 70 Figure 5-5 Pediment details............................................................................................................................ 70 Figure 5-6 Supermarket Raatri Bazar plan ..................................................................................................... 71 Figure 5-7 Colonial architecture details ......................................................................................................... 72 Figure 5-8 Street section with street dimensions ........................................................................................... 73 Figure 5-9 Food vendors use plastics for shade ............................................................................................. 73 Figure 5-10 Sitting arrangements in the offset of the building ...................................................................... 74 Figure 5-11 Elevation A ................................................................................................................................. 74 Figure 5-12 Elevation B ................................................................................................................................. 75 Figure 5-13 Street section with dimensions ................................................................................................... 75 Figure 5-14 Plan showing different layers of the street ................................................................................. 76

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Figure 5-15 Restaurant in front of the building ............................................................................................. 76 Figure 5-16 School hoarding.......................................................................................................................... 77 Figure 5-17 Advocate office in front of the building ..................................................................................... 77 Figure 5-18 Cows sitting next to the building................................................................................................ 78 Figure 5-19 Different usage of the stairs ....................................................................................................... 78 Figure 5-20 Plan showing the beginnings and endings of the street ............................................................. 79 Figure 5-21 Food vendors in a row ................................................................................................................ 80 Figure 5-22 Banasari Food Stall .................................................................................................................... 80 Figure 5-23 People enjoying food .................................................................................................................. 81

List of Tables Table 2-1 Conceptual Framework ..................................................................................................................................... 26 Table 3-1 Table of Schedule .............................................................................................................................................. 34 Table 3-2 Theoretical Framework ..................................................................................................................................... 50

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1. Introduction

Background All over the world, in various cities and indeed in India, there are many instances of places that have emerged from the active approach of the common people in the public realm. food streets are among such places which have gained identity through time with constant engagement of people over food. Thus, the point of interest lies how food and city exists as an amalgamation of the two. These food streets are an eclectic assortment of stalls that offer a range of multicultural food choices and the street is a dining room without any walls and a feast without fanfare. Lately, with time such streets become an identity of the city as well as the place of attraction for tourists. Food Streets are named differently in different parts of the country. In Gujarat they are called as Khau Gallis or Khaudri Galli, thus in this thesis I am referring food streets as Khau Gallis. The objective of this research is to understand the nature of Khau Gallis and how they are responsible for sociability to maintain the public realm in the city.

Throughout history, food has played an important role in the daily activities of man in the manner in which it is produced, displayed and consumed. Food has been sold on the street ever since people have lived-in town settlements. Public food consumption, which encourages social exchange and interaction, brings vitality and conviviality to urban life.

In India, apart from customs and traditions, food is a binding factor for people to meet and interact. Thus, emergence of Khau Gallis in the different parts of the country has various reasons acquiesce to the culture and traditions followed.

However, today with the onset of malls and supermarkets significance of these food streets is lost. Khau Gallis are transformed into formal food courts which are indoor common area within a facility of counters of multiple food vendors with the shift from public to private that has occurred over history. With that shift we are losing a very important part of our urban life, the interaction between people, space and food in the public realm creating poor public spaces. Thus, there is an urge to study these food streets before they perish.

To achieve the objective of this research qualitative research methods have been used. The methodology followed in the research can be divided into three parts. After understating

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Urban Food Tales

the topic, its relevance, importance and setting out of the aim and objectives, the first segment is based on the analysis which involves referring to literature and identifying the relationship of food and urban spaces in India. Further, understanding of different parameters used to analyse a street was done. The second part includes the theoretical framework made through the pilot case study which was done by the parameters taken from the book ‘Great Streets’ by Allan Jacobs. Further, in the third and the final part these parameters are analysed in four cases and the interferences and conclusions from the study are carried out.

This chapter comprises of five sub topics that are theoretical understanding, methodological approach, scope and limitation, rational for intervention and structure of the thesis.

Theoretical Understanding The theoretical understanding of the thesis lies around the keywords - Food streets, public realm, identity2` and sociability. They are briefly discussed here and elaborated in chapter 2.

India’s street foods are an integral part of its living heritage, with restaurants owned by the family offering food prepared using authentic recipes that have been passed on for generations. Regional street foods are extremely popular among local residents as well as tourists, despite the popularity of international and fusion cuisine in India in recent years.

Food streets unite people for all these reasons and bring life to the city.

Methodology Approach This dissertation is initiated with the personal interest in studying the nature of Khau Gallis in different cities of Gujarat and how they are responsible for sociability in the city.

Figure 1-1 Research Triangle

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Aim: To understand the nature of Khau Gallis and how they are responsible for sociability to maintain the public realm in the city.

Objective: i.

Study and understand the relationship of food and urban spaces in the Indian Culture.

ii.

Identify the parameters that define the characteristic of the Khau Gallis by referring to Allan Jacobs ‘Great Streets’

iii.

Document the selected Khau Gallis through the theoretical framework.

Key Words: Food Streets, public realm, sociability, identity.

Methods: To achieve the objectives above three methods are applied which are Literature Study, Pilot Case Study and Field Work. They are briefly described here and detailed out in chapter 3.

After understating the topic, its relevance, importance and setting out of the aim and objectives, basic information and literature review on the same is carried out which helps in strengthening the base of research.

The literature study helps to gain a clear understanding of the topic by understanding its historical background and the reasons behind the beginning of Khau Gallis. After understanding the relationship between food and urban spaces, the relevance of such informal spaces in the Indian culture was studied. As the focus of the study is in the state of Gujarat, the food tales of the state was understood and a map was prepared denoting the famous Khau Gallis of majority of the cities. For analysing such streets, some variables or parameters must be there to understand the nature of that place. Thus ‘Great Streets’ by Allan Jacobs was studied the parameters mentioned by him to analyse a street was taken into consideration.

So, for the examination of the Allan Jacobs parameters suitable for Khau Gallis, a pilot case study was carried out. In this exercise Manek Chowk of Ahmedabad was analysed using the parameters and the rest of missing parameters were identified. With all the parameters, 3

Urban Food Tales

that helps defining the nature of the Khau Gallis, in table 3.1 a theoretical framework was made to carry out the further primary cases.

After selecting the cases, these Khau Gallis were visited, documented- by writing observations and experiences, taking photographs and taking interviews of the visitors as well as the owners of the food stalls. The cases selected, have more than one Khau Galli in the city, but the focus was on the one inform street which had gained identity with time.

The varying streets helps in understanding variation in the nature of such streets within the state. Thus, from detailed analysis on these streets using the theoretical framework, inferences have been derived which leads to the learning and conclusions.

1.1.

Scope and Limitation

The scope of this research is to understand the nature of Khau Gallis which govern the public realm in the city. This research is exploratory qualitative and literature based.

This study is focusing on public spaces which have gained identity over time as Khau Gallis rather than 2-3 lahris standing on the road, as they define a different type of urban space.

This study is based on the streets of state of Gujarat.

1.2.

Rationale for Intervention

Probably one of the most enduring symbols of public space, the street has been a consistent object of attention of architects and planners. In various cities of the world and indeed in India, there are many places that have emerged from the active engagement of the common people in the public realm. These acts of engagement create places of public interest. Khau Gallis are the result of such engagement of people over food.

As the city is growing in its periphery new street vendors are attracted and absorbed in these locations. Today the informal spaces which are the life of our Indian cities are disappearing due to growing technology and other factors, thus as an individual there is a tendency to therefore go back to understand and document these food markets as centers of community development and preserve them for the future generation.

The study tries to focus on the oldest Khau Galli of the city which is usually located in the core of the city where as the new growing markets are on the periphery of the city. Some streets are famous than others as people tend to visit them repeatedly due to varied reasons.

It is thus important to understand, as a professional the very essential phenomenon or 4

Urban Food Tales

process by which public relationships and structures emerge which manifest into physical places as a response to the needs of its people. Our built environment is thus a socialeconomic and political space that takes shape due to the interrelationships and dialogues between different group of people that inhabit and use it. This study is curiosity driven thus this research is a rigorous attempt to analyse the nature of Khau Gallis of the state of Gujarat and the various reasons behind their endurance.

1.3.

Structure of the Thesis

This thesis comprises of five chapters which includes introduction and conclusion chapter.

The chapter one is Introduction that includes background, theoretical understanding, methodology, scope and limitations, rationale for intervention and structure of the thesis.

The chapter two consists of Literature Review which includes four sub chapters named Relationship of Food and Urban Spaces, Food and Indian culture, Food Tales of Gujarat, Parameters of Allan Jacobs.

The chapter three is Methodology, which explains the three methods used to conduct this study which are Literature Study, Pilot Case Study and Primary Field Work. It also includes the Theoretical Framework and the Schedule for the thesis.

The chapter four is the Khau Gallis of Gujarat, which includes all the four cases of field work.

The chapter five is conclusion, which includes what was the study about, key findings, way forward and the concluding statement.

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2. Food and Urban Spaces

2.1.

Outline

This chapter comprises of literature study which was focused to get the detail knowledge on the subject and to gain understanding about the larger reality of the subject. The chapter concludes on the conceptual framework which is further used for the pilot case study.

2.2.

Relationship of Food and Urban Spaces

Throughout history, food has played an important role in man's everyday activities and the task of collecting, hunting, growing or producing food has been devoted much of his time.

Today we are witnessing a time when food and meals move through formative experiences and where food and meals are social events that drift from the dining table to the city domains to a greater extent (refer figure 2-1).

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Figure 2-1 National Food Truck Day

Source: National Food Truck Day - Celebrate Food Trucks. (n.d.). Retrieved February 18, 2019, from https://foodtrucktrainingcertification.com/articles/food-truck-news/national-food-truck-day/

Where the meal experience drifts from the dining table space into the dining room that is the city, it finally blends with the urban landscape through great performative food events.

In addition, the meal involves new interactive products for socializing and adds life to the urban spaces of the city. Eating and drinking are natural requirements for human survival and are a regular ingredient in our everyday lives, both in the home's private sphere and in the city's public domains. The spaces and areas of food are all around us and activities related to food take place in several places and shapes, both indoors and outdoors; perhaps 7

Urban Food Tales

in the design of the restaurant, cafes, markets, steps and low walls along the city's street pavements, which we encounter while we enjoy our lunch in the sun (refer figure 2-2).

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Figure 2-2 Outdoor food spaces Source i: Projects. (2013, February 17). Retrieved February 18, 2019, from Vancouver Public Space Network website: http://vancouverpublicspace.ca/our-work/urban-design/projects/ Source ii: Island Cafe Shelter Island. (n.d.). Retrieved May 6, 2019, from https://kitchendecor.club/files/island-cafe-shelter-island.html

Karen A. Franck in her book, ‘Food + Architecture’ suggests that food is used to a greater extent as a way to promote cultural offers and is probably the result of growing interests in the economy of experience as a means of regenerating sectors of the urban economy.

(Franck, 2005) As a result, the cultural experience offerings of today are no longer just

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Urban Food Tales

leisure parks, art museums and the like, but also restaurants and the city's public dining facilities, which act as important operators in the overall experience related sector.

2.1.1. Public Realm in the City Local life in a city is incomplete without a healthy public place and vice versa. The public sphere plays an important role in promoting urban culture and creating citizenship. The public realm is not just about major urban spaces such as Venice's Pizza Sen Macro or Mexico City's garibaldi Plaza. It is also about that small places which people visit for refreshment, mainly for lingering and socializing, as an alternative to home and work which is referred as a "third place� by architect and professor Karen A. Franck, that generates a sense of community and provides an opportunity for public realm (refer figure 2-3). Many perspective and the common world can be found in the public sphere, where people who are different from each other are present in public places for different purposes can come together (refer figure 2-4).

Figure 2-3 Different events in the Plaza Source: Victoria wants your feedback on how to improve Centennial Square. (n.d.). Retrieved February 18, 2019, from http://www.victoriabuzz.com/2018/07/feedback-how-to-improve-centennial-square/

“Streets in ancient cities were the result of a vision of civilization rather than a function of the economy.� (Clos, 2013) The streets, like people, also have history. Cities were developed around the streets from ancient times. Streets were not only considered to be links merged with road links to connect various destinations, but also served three functions: commutation, trade and social interaction (refer figure 2-5). They are a key element in determining a city, neighborhood and community's shape and function.

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Figure 2-4 Night Markets in the Plaza Source: Asian Night Market 2018. (n.d.). Retrieved February 18, 2019, from Old Port of Montréal website: https://www.oldportofmontreal.com/event/night-market

Figure 2-5 Illustration of ancient street Source: Medieval Trade. (n.d.). Retrieved February 18, 2019, from Medieval Trade website: http://whacej2.weebly.com/

“The concept of street as public kitchen and dining room is as old as cities themselves.”

(Lenore Newman & Katherine Burnett, 2013) The vending of food on the street is a very important element that attracts people to an urban landscape from ancient times. Such urban streets have been and can be major contributors to the public realm of the city.

2.1.2. Food as Experience As long as man has endured and is omnivorous, he is able to eating a wide range of different foods. Since long the choice of food has been a fundamental aspect of our daily intake of

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different meals. On the background of exactly this omnivorous ability and a complex system of taste preferences, the meal moves beyond the frame of digestion and physiology, and instead the food we choose to eat or serve to our guests communicates who we are and which social affiliations we represent is enrolled in a cultural and social context. (Holm, 2005) William Whyte's brief book ‘The Social Life of Small Urban Spaces’ on urban public places focuses on behavior in urban public places in New York, San Francisco and other major cities. Social Life focuses on a number of topics in turn, according to Whtye, which are crowds (and why people like them), sitting space, fountains and food vendors. “If you want to seed a place with activity, put out food.” (refer figure 2-6) Well-designed food places can help give life to a space. (Whyte, 1980)

Figure 2-6 Social dinning in public space Source: Boer, J. de. (n.d.). Kitchain: Modular Furniture For Social Dining In Public Space. Retrieved February 18, 2019, from Pop-Up City website: https://popupcity.net/kitchain-modular-furniture-for-socialdining-in-public-space/

Food in the city enriches our daily sensations of sound, sight, smell, taste and touch through the way it is produced, displayed and consumed. Food exchange in markets and food production in the built fabric surrounding markets are configured spatially on a human scale. These spatial arrangements are accompanied by food centered opportunities for social interactions, enabling social rituals and a sense of community. Within the rapid pace of city life, anonymity and the modern city's large - scale spaces: street side food places give a sense of intimacy, a place to stop at an entirely human level (refer figure 2-7). At the same time, we also experience a link to the region and the seasons.

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Urban Food Tales

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Figure 2-7 Food markets at night

Source: Shenzhen Night Market | www.topsimages.com. (n.d.). February 18, 2019, from https://www.topsimages.com/images/shenzhen-night-market-4f.html

2.1.3. Street Food “The role of food in urban design is attracting increasing attention.” (Lenore Newman & Katherine Burnett, 2013) Food is sold informally on both sides of the building and kerbside, creating an interesting maze of gastronomic activities. The food vendors insinuate themselves into street life, blurring the boundaries between public space and interior, creating a tertiary zone that becomes a buffer space which balances the urban edge with the private space of an individual. These food vendors are an eclectic range of shops offering a variety of multicultural food choices and the street is a dining room without walls.

These roadside vendors are frequently flocked by tourists and locals alike because it gives people a closer connection with a region’s culture and tradition (refer figure 2-8).

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ii Figure 2-8 Food Streets Source : Street food. (2019). In Wikipedia. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Street_food&oldid=894705955

Street food can be a resistance to cultural and economic dominance; in some cases, vendors sell traditional recipes or customize the food they sell to the cultural preferences of the community in which they live, providing an alternative to the standardize tendency of imported food or multinational chains. (Tinker 1997, 1999) Street food is recognized as a factor in attracting tourism and tourist dollars to cities.

Gastrotourism is becoming increasingly important and tourists are looking for an opportunity to eat with local people and enjoy what local people eat.

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Figure 2-9 Food Courts

Source i: The Food Court - MGM Grand Las Vegas. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://mgmgrand.mgmresorts.com/en/restaurants/foodcourt.html Source ii: Ben thanh market food. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from http://repictura.pw/ben-thanhmarket-food.html

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Urban Food Tales

Due to cultural, social and historical differences, the way in which family street vendors are traditionally created and run varies in different parts of the world. But today in the twenty first century, there is a serious decline in street food, as the supply of urban food has moved to supermarkets and restaurants indoors and car traffic was handed over to the streets (refer figure 2-9). The end result of this period is an almost food free street scenery and food vendors, in stark contrast to the situation in many other parts of the world. Street food remains a key component of urban supply and urban economy globally.

2.3.

Food and Indian Culture

India is a country of diversity, a kaleidoscope of colour, taste, culture and people. It’s also a country where ancient traditions and modern life co-exist seamlessly. Indian cities are not just about brick and mortar; the contemporary city is largely defined by its kinetic condition, the collective realm and informality of its movement and the place of its inhabitants in the form of festivals, rituals, improvised bazaars and events (refer figure 210). The kinetic city has largely replaced the static city (its physical architecture) as the primary and most dynamic aspect of urban society, its socio-economic aspects of world markets and national policies, which are reflected in the creation of public spatiality.

Figure 2-10 Market outside mosque

What attracts people most, it would appear, is other people, is what William Whyte has quite truly quoted. People are where activities are and vice-versa. People are always looking for a sociable place where they can observe the passing scene, meet friends and celebrate interaction with a wide range of people. The interaction between man to man in India is

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usually in symbiosis with junctional value of space. Such spaces are often located around street corners, sidewalks, under huge trees, close to prominent social places such as temples, mosques, markets, parks, public transport, etc. (refer figure 2-11).

Figure 2-11 People enjoying food on the street

In India, food drinks and paans are often a binding factor for people to meet and interact, apart from customs and traditions. Whether at the corner street nukkad or kitli at the crossroads, a meeting is often called over say a fafda-jalebi fare or tea or chai as it is often called or paan as an after-meal indulgence called is often associated as something to mull over, no matter the ‘place’ of meeting per say (refer figure 2-12).

Compared to European countries, the concept of public place in the Indian context is very different. In contrast to the European context in which civic nodes and squares are planned, most public spaces in India are highly organically developed, most of which are clubbed with / adjacent institutions and occurred in relation to market spaces known as “bazaars.”

India is hard to pack especially in the area of food. Delve into regions within the state, different communities living in these regions and interpretations of local dishes that change every 100 kilometers; and a complex, dynamic menu can be found that intensifies the thrill of discovery.

India has the dominant position in this part of the world since the nineteenth century, due to its diverse amalgamation of attractions and the way public spaces are formed. Either one

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experiences the culture of Gujarat, Rajasthan or Mumbai or the rituals of the eastern part, flavours retains identity throughout the country.

i.

ii.

iii.

iv.

Figure 2-12 Kittlis and pan parlours at street corners Source i: Roadside Tea Stall | Shutterbug. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://www.shutterbug.com/content/roadside-tea-stall Source iii: Calcutta Pan Shop, Chennai, India | The Restaurant Fairy. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from http://therestaurantfairy.com/2010/07/26/calcutta-pan-shop/ Source iv: #panwalla hashtag on Instagram - Insta Stalker. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://insta-stalker.com/tag/Panwalla/

2.3.1. Indian streets Indian streets are categorized or known by the activities that prevail on the streets, the busiest main streets, the market arteries or the city center, which are the main part of the spatial network, are never designed for shopping alone.

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i.

ii.

Figure 2-13 Indian shopping streets

Source i: The World’s newest photos of ambabai - Flickr Hive Mind. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://hiveminer.com/Tags/ambabai/Timeline Source ii: 13 Places in Delhi for Shopping on a Budget. (2018, April 18). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from Treebo Blog website: https://www.treebo.com/blog/street-shopping-in-delhi/

Fascinating viewpoint about most of the Indian street is that street formation is largely based on the typology of activities and their time period, the surrounding environment is only a response to these characteristics, such as temporary hawkers on the street, multifunctional shops and various forms of collection spaces (refer figure 2-13).

Informality, the art of creating cultural exchanges and interactions are the main features of Indian street culture that attract visitors. Indians have the idea of enclosed inside and exposed outside, which means that the streets and bazaars of India are the outer space (refer figure 2-14).

i.

ii.

Figure 2-14 Indian streets

Source i: Street in India Stock Photos, Images & Photography | Shutterstock. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://www.shutterstock.com/search/street+in+india?section=1&measurement=px&sort=popular&image_t ype=photo&safe=true&search_source=base_related_searches&saveFiltersLink=true

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2.3.2. Informal food streets In historic times, ancient Vedic concerns with purity made for an austere lifestyle when it comes to food. If one had to worry about contamination from the kitchen of a host, socializing over a meal was almost impossible. Muslims, who conquered a large part of India in the 12th century, had minimal religious restrictions - mainly alcohol and pork prohibitions. Moreover, Islam encouraged zakat or food sharing with others.

i.

ii.

iii.

iv.

Figure 2-15 Famous Khau Gallis of India

Source i: Khau Gallis Of Mumbai: Eat Street, Eat Smart! (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://www.yatrablog.com/khau-gallis-of-mumbai-eat-street-eat-smart Source ii: Kake di Hatti (Chandni Chowk, near Fatehpuri Masjid, beside Giani’s, Old Delhi) – yummraj. (n.d.). Retrieved May 6, 2019, from https://yummraj.com/2013/03/23/kake-di-hatti-chandni-chowk-nearfatehpuri-masjid-beside-gianis-old-delhi/ Source iii: Chappan Dukan | Alive Indore. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from http://aliveindore.com/places/india/madhya-pradesh/indore/attraction/chappan-dukan/ Source iv: Manek Chowk Food Bazar: Place Where food lives @ Night in Ahmedabad. (n.d.). Retrieved May 6, 2019, from https://ashaval.com/manek-chowk-021259/

Hospitality played a critical role in the courtly society of Mughal and Muslim rulers brought a wonderful cuisine to share. The concept of souks and food courts was thus created. The markets of Shahjahanabad, Old Delhi and towns like Indore, Hyderabad, Allahabad, Banaras, and Malerkotla boasted of Chandi Chowk Bazar (fifty-six eateries), Halim Bazar, 18

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Loknath Gali, Kachori Galli and Kamal Cinema Road respectively where food courts on streets have long prevailed and nourished generations (refer figure 2-15).

Such lanes with a large cluster of stalls for street food are locally known as ‘Khau Galli’, which means in Marathi ‘Food Alley.’ They are also denoted as the ‘Informal food streets’ of the city. Khau Gallis are an integral part of the metropolitan culture of India. These narrow by-lanes, with their carts, usually located near railway stations, colleges and offices, offer visual and gastronomic delights. Packed with crowds that make beelines for their favourite snacks, sweets and more, Khau Gallis remains very busy from lunch to midnight (refer figure 2-16).

i.

ii.

Figure 2-16 Khau Gallis

Source i: Halla_photo_contests. (2017, September 11). Don’t Read This If You’re Hungry! 20 Great Photos of Indian Food. Retrieved February 20, 2019, from halla_photo_contests website: https://blog.halla.in/dontread-this-if-you-re-hungry-20-great-photos-of-indian-food-ca6f6c9b9e80 Source ii: Mohammad Ali Road – Freepressjournal : Latest Indian news,Live updates. (n.d.). Retrieved February 20, 2019, from https://www.freepressjournal.in/mumbai/ramadan-2017-visit-these-mumbais-top10-places-for-delicious-food-this-holy-month/1075046/attachment/mohammad-ali-road

Informal food spaces in India's markets, lakes and sidewalks not only serves different food sites but are also aimed at entertainment, relaxation and leisurely dining. Therefore, people of all ages and sexes go specifically to these places for what food spaces offer. Short traffic areas between the food court and retail stores serve as an impulse for snacks when pedestrians and shoppers walk from store to store along the street sidewalks.

Khau Gallis, open markets, street corner markets, weekly markets, door-to-door service are a part of our traditional and culture. Therefore, a food street is about nuances where 'food' is not just about utility, but it is personal, culturally binding, by reaching out to the realms of time and place, by coming across as recreational (refer figure 2-17).

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Emergence of Khau Gallis in the different parts of the country has various reasons acquiesce to the culture and traditions followed. For example, vending in the internal streets of Chandni Chowk's occurred when chaat-wallahs visited mohallahs in the afternoons to see the women's chaats. Food historian Pushpesh pant says, “Confined within the four walls of their homes, the women enjoyed their chaat as it gave them an excuse to socialize and exchange gossip.” (refer figure 2-18)

i.

ii.

Figure 2-17 Food stalls on the streets

Source: Chandni Chowk, #Delhi street food #Kachori #Street #Food #India #ekPlate #ekplatekachori | City Specials ( India ) | Ethnic recipes, Food, India. (n.d.). Retrieved February 20, 2019, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/478789004117532103/

When the women started to step out of their homes to do their own shopping, they started to patronizing these chaat-wllahs who sold their stuff out of pushcarts. Apparently along with those reasons, the famous Khau Galli of Chandi Chowk arose.

i.

ii.

Figure 2-18 Chaat walla’s on the streets

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2.3.3. Illustrating food streets in markets Food courts or hawker streets have been the most active spaces of the town or a village. In ancient cities, there were open spaces where merchants from surrounding and neighbouring countries came and sold their goods. Since these places were very informal and organic in layout, food courts and hawker streets would be set up to bring crowds to the street at the same time to take advantage of the tariffs and shop. It was extremely convenient for the traders to sell their products to the hawkers and at the same time to offer them food right there in the market (refer figure 2-19).

i.

ii.

Figure 2-19 Food vendors in the market

Source: http://www.lassiwithlavina.com/thebuzz/bengali-food-tales-from-kolkata-to-new-york/html. (n.d.).

Retrieved February 20, 2019, from http://www.lassiwithlavina.com/thebuzz/bengali-food-tales-fromkolkata-to-new-york/html

Food streets have not been active trading places since historical times, but also very important networking places. They are the places where people look forward to meeting others, conducting business queries and participating in small events to reach more people.

As the town or city grew, the bazar's commercial value also increased, and in the evening bazaar streets transformed into food streets.

In the ancient cities of India, the main temple was normally located at a distance from the city's residential area and was connected by a path or a street. During religious festivals, this street had a special importance. This street gave the deities a special axial significance.

This was an important space that every citizen normally visited and therefore traders occupied. More shops opened in a linear pattern along the path as time passed, and the street bazaar developed and flourished. Later on, these streets transformed into food streets by the night attracting more people (refer figure 2-20).

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i.

ii.

Figure 2-20 Food activities Source i: In pictures: Cooking for the goddess in Kerala. (2012, March 7). Retrieved February 20, from //www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-india-17282425 Source ii: Temples. (n.d.). Retrieved February 20, 2019, from Top Tourist website: https://www.toptourist.com/temples/

In small towns, the bazar street, which turns into a food court or a hawker street, is not just a link in one area, but it is a multifarious area that becomes a children's playground, a women's workplace, a meeting place and a place for business. The bazar street becomes the identity on the small towns.

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2.4.

Food Tales of Gujarat

Situated on India's west coast and opening to the Arabian Sea, Gujarat is a profoundly historic region whose roots can be traced back to the civilization of the Indus Valley.

Gujarat has been ruled by different rulers over many centuries, including the Mauryans, Marathas, Mughals, Rajputs, other invading Islamic dynasties. As an important port state, interactions with different global cultures have also influenced the way of life in Gujarat.

However, the rise of Jain culture has recently turned the majority of people in Gujarat into a vegetarian mind.

Figure 2-21 Cuisine of Gujarat Source: Cuisine of Gujarat - Traditional Gujarati Food & Cuisine. (2018, June 23). Retrieved February 2, 2019, from Gujarat Expert website: https://www.gujaratexpert.com/cuisine-of-gujarat/

Gujarat is known as a haven for foodies, apart from its rich culture and heritage. Gujarati’s enjoy food on the streets and high - end restaurants as much as they enjoy home. It's one of the city's features. Although street food is common throughout India, street food is noted in Gujarat because people from all economic classes eat almost round the clock on the roadside and it is sometimes felt that street food tastes better than city restaurants. Thus the trend of Khau Gallis in this state is never ending and always attracts the local people and the tourists. Gujarat people cut cross class, religion, gender and ethnicity barriers and love the food of this Khau Gallis. They are also credited to develop the food culture of the city.

Compared to restaurants and vendors, food of Khau Gallis in Gujarat is relatively inexpensive in crowded areas such as colleges and railway stations.

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Gujarati food is probably unique because it is predominantly vegetarian. Most Gujaratis are rigid vegetarians. Due to climate and cultural variations, there are slight differences in food habits and preparation methods throughout Gujarat (refer figure 2-21).

2.4.1. The Four Pillars of Gujarati Food Culture Gujarati cuisines vary in flavour and other aspects from region to region. The food from Surat, Kutch, Kathiyawad and North Gujarat is most distinct. Tastes also vary according to family preferences. The Gujarati food making style is also unique. Some are fried while some are cooked steam with vegetables and spices or dal and then added vaghar (chaunk) to improve the flavour. The four pillars of Gujarati food culture are follows: i.

The Kathiyawadi Cuisine is found in the major cities such as Porbandar, Bhavnagar, Jamnagar, Rajkot and Junagadh which are part of the region known as Saurashtra comprising the Kathiyawad region. It shares the border with Rajasthan, thus it has a string influence on the cuisine. The food is generally quite spicy in contrast to most of Gujarat, where sweet flavours are a major influence. Sev tameta nu shaak and ringna no oroh are the prominent dishes of Kathiyawadi cuisine.

ii.

The Surti Cuisine is found in the city of Surat, located in Gujarat's southern region, is known for its love of food, whether fine dining or cheap street food. The undhiyu and locho are undoubtedly the most popular dish to emerge from Surat.

iii.

Ahmedavadi Cuisine is found in Ahmedabad, Gujarat's largest city and former capital, is definitely one of the foodie hotspots of the state. Street food culture is widespread here, and in every corner of this city you can find delicious snacks and quick bites along with a plethora of mouth-watering sweets. There are dhokla, fafda and khandvi in terms of popular dishes. The clichĂŠ of the sweetness of all Gujarati food can certainly be blamed on Amdavadi cuisine, and the city's people wouldn't have it any other way.

iv.

The Kutchi Cuisine is found in Kutch's dry, arid area also hosts some individual dishes. The region's food choices are dictated by a lack of leafy green vegetables.

Dabeli is the essential street food of the region along with the drink called Chash.

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Figure 2-22 Map of Gujarat showing all the Khau Gallis

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2.5.

Parameters for Analysing

“Certain physical qualities are required for great street.” Allan Jacobs in his book ‘Great Streets’ mentions that not only one or two qualities, but certain physical qualities are required for any street to be great. It remains difficult to isolate physical characteristics from social and economic activities that make our experiences worthwhile. But to what extent are the experiences we have on the street rather than the physical environment that make them memorable in a positive way? (Jacobs, 1996) As a group of certain qualities are required for a great street, various parameters and requirements are analysed and mentioned by Allan Jacobs in his book ‘Great Streets.’

Following is the table which talks about the converted indicators from the given parameters for the research (refer table 2-1).

Table 2-1 Conceptual Framework

No. Parameters of studying Great Streets

Defining of the Parameter (Summary based on the elaborated discussion provided in the chapter four of the book ‘Great Street’.)

Indicators for the Measurements

1.

Places for People to Walk with some ‘Leisure’

Street should provide people with the rich experience (on foot) and give them the opportunity to meet people on the way to improving the city / town culture.

Walkability.

2.

Physical Comfort

The street should be comfortable at least in their own settings. This creates the level of physical comfort for the passing people.

Climate Responsive.

3.

Definition

The definition of a street should be sensitive to Human humans, it should create a ratio (width: height) sensitive scale. or sensitive proportions to human scale that can enhance the street's dynamic nature while experiencing it.

4.

Qualities that engages the eyes.

Every great street has the qualities or attributes Engagement of that involve the eye of the person during his / the eye. her journey. Architecture elements, activities or the light and shadows etc. Makes this street live.

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5.

Transparency

Each street has its own level of transparency through the street and the surrounding structures. This depends largely on the community and the type of activity around it.

6.

Maintenance

It is more than a matter of keeping things clean Physical in a good repair format, but it involves the Maintenance of usage of materials that are relatively easy to the Streets maintain and street elements which has some history of carrying.

7

Quality of Construction and Design

There's nothing like the good or poor quality of Design a building or design, it's always about using the Attributes right material at the right place to create the right quality of the built environment for the street.

8

Physical Qualities Life and quality of the street can be improved with its numbers.

Visual/Spatial Continuity

i.

Trees

Vegetation

ii.

Beginnings and Interesting beginnings and endings in the mind Entrance Endings of peoples can create identity.

iii.

Special Design Features : Details

It can give that place a special meaning. Gates, Special Design fountains, benches, kiosks, paving, lights, Features signs, canopies, etc. can be used as a design feature.

iv.

Places

A distinctive open space along the route that can serve as a stopping point for the community and act as a major community meeting place.

v.

Accessibility : Means of Access

Accessibility means direct access to the Means of different ways and secondary access to the Access street. There are mainly three types of accessibility: 1.Connect to the city's two major areas. 2. Pedestrian walks and vehicular access.

3. Handicapped accessibility.

Pause points or open spaces along the route

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vi.

Density

Void of human activity, streets soon cry out for Exchange of people, they need people at the same time as Culture they are one of them, they are activated by people at the same time as they help to create a community for them. And that they achieved in considerable measure by having many people live along them or nearby-‘A Matter of Density’

vii.

Length, Slope, Parking

The factors that are taken into account when planning the street. This type of technically correct articulation can change a street's multifunctional behaviour.

Technical Articulations

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3. Methodology

3.1.

Outline

This chapter elaborates the methods used to achieve the objectives of this research. The chapter also comprises of the pilot case study which concludes with a theoretical framework used for the field work.

3.2.

Research Approach

This research is driven by curiosity aimed at understanding the nature of Khau Gallis and how they are responsible for sociability to maintain the public realm in the city.

The objectives of the research are: i.

Study and understand the relationship of food and urban spaces in the Indian Culture.

ii.

Identify the parameters that define the characteristic of the Khau Gallis.

iii.

Document the selected Khau Gallis through the theoretical framework.

To achieve the above objectives following methods were used which are elaborated in the sub-topics of the chapter are: Literature Study, Pilot Case Study, Field Work. They are elaborated below.

3.3.

Literature Study

The literature review is laid out in chapter 2 of this thesis. It consists of four sub chapters which were focused to get the detail knowledge on the subject and to gain understanding about the larger reality of the subject. All the literature study was done by referring various thesis from CEPT library, online articles and scientific papers. Following are the broad categorization of the chapters under this segment which are briefly outlined here: i.

Relationship of Food and Urban Spaces

ii.

Food and Indian Culture

iii.

Food Tales of Gujarat

iv.

Parameters of Allan Jacobs 29

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Figure 3-1 Research Framework

The sub section one is about Relationship of Food and Urban spaces, where the study was helpful to bid the gap between the urban spaces and food. It focused on the shift of meal experiences from the dining table space to the dining room of the city. It explained the importance of public realm in the local life in a city and vice versa. Under this section various perspective of the urban planners and historians are studied to understand food as an experience and how it enriches our daily sensations in the city. Also, it helped to recognise street food as an attracting factor to cities and a key component of urban supply though today there is a serious decline in street food with the onset of food courts and indoor restaurants.

The second sub section focuses on the relationship between Food and Indian culture. Apart from customs and traditions, how food bids people were understood here. The main motive was to understand the Indian street culture and informality as a part of it. Also, to get the overview of Khau Gallis as informal food streets and the various reasons behind their 30

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existence in the Indian context. How food streets were an important part of the markets in the historical times and the reasons for their endurance are studied under this section.

Under the third subsection Food Tales of Gujarat the main motive was to understand the food culture across the state of Gujarat as the study focuses on the Khau Gallis of Gujarat.

The four pillars of Gujarat food culture were studied with their different cuisines and food habits. A map was prepared denoting the various Khau Gallis from different cities of Gujarat which helped in selecting the pilot case study as well as the primary cases in the research.

The sub section four helped in building the understanding on what is the definition of a great street? And how these streets are formed and structured through the lens of Allan Jacobs. The requirements and the parameters on which one can analyse the streets and mark its significance and locate it in a city fabric was studied. Further its understanding helped to convert those parameters into new theoretical framework for the research and the study of the primary cases.

3.4.

Pilot Case Study

After the study of ‘Great Streets’ by Allan Jacobs and his parameters to analyse any street, a pilot case study was conducted as a part of the initial approach towards the research. The main focus of the study was to examine Jacobs parameters suitable for analyses of any Khau Galli. In this exercise out of all the food streets across the state, the most famous and oldest Manek Chowk of Ahmedabad was selected. Manek Chowk was observed and studied as per Jacobs parameters using different methods such as writing observations and experiences, taking photographs and sketches which is shown in detail in one of the subchapters below.

From the learning of the Manek Chowk study, it was noticed that Jacobs parameters did not clearly help in understanding the nature of the Khau Gallis as there is a factor of sociality which can be understood more through interaction with the people. Thus, alteration was done in the parameters and the rest of the missing parameters were identified.

With all the parameters, that helps defining the nature of the Khau Gallis, in a theoretical framework (table 3.1) was made which was used to carry out the further primary cases.

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Figure 3-2 Map of Gujarat with cities of field work and pilot study highlighted

3.5.

Fieldwork

The research was conducted in the similar manner through which pilot case study was conducted. Each street from the selected city of Gujarat was documented by taking the theoretical framework (table 3-2) prepared form the learning of the pilot case study. Below is the list of selected three cities of Gujarat (refer figure 3-2). i.

Anand - Choti Khau Galli

ii.

Jamnagar - Supermarket Ratri Bazar

iii.

Rajkot - Bhaktinagar Circle

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Any selected food street will be studied and documented in following manners: –

Study of the food street and the reasons for its sociality through interaction with visitors and owners.

–

Detail documents and analysis of the street, through the derived parameters.

The food streets mentioned above was selected from the following criteria: –

The public space that has gained identity over time as Khau Galli.

–

The food street that act or having the significant level of interaction space in the city focusing the local people and tourists.

The food streets selected from the above criteria will be documented, studied and analysed by the following methods: –

The perspective and panoramic photography for the pictorial analysis to understand the surrounding street context along with figure ground.

–

Detail plan and sections to understand the ongoing actives on the street.

–

Check the presence of the derived parameters and write observations for each.

–

Take interviews of the visitors and the stalls owners and workers to known about the sociability and the important of the street in the city.

3.5.1. Schedule for Field Work Any selected food street from the four cities of Gujarat was documented by conducting a four-day exercise in the selected region. The schedule for the documentation as follows: Day 1: Selection of the street First day was dedicated for small pilot study in the selected city and out of all the food streets from each city, one Khau Galli was selected through the selection criteria mentioned above. The detail documentation of the surrounding of the street was done though photographs and figure ground were prepared using google maps.

Day 2: Making of Drawings Second day will be dedicated to make the detail plan of the place denoting the placement of all the food stalls and the sitting areas and other activities. Same scale sections and sketches were drawn with the view to capture the nature of the street.

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Day 3: Documentation of Parameters Third day was focused on the documentation of the derived parameters through detail sketches, photographs, sections and writing observations and experiences. Interaction with the people through interviews of the visitors and the food stall owners and workers. Along with that the street will be observed all throughout the day from the different time period (Morning, Afternoon and Evening) and change in the nature of the food street will be noted.

3.6.

Schedule of Thesis

18

17

16

15

14

13

12

11

10

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

Weeks► Activity ▼

1

Table 3-1 Table of Schedule

Conceptualiz ing Proposal writing Guide Selection Fine tuning Developing the methodology Report writing Literature Study Pilot Case Study Field Work Conclusion, Analysis and Findings Editing

3.7.

Pilot Case Study – Manek Chowk

As a part of the initial approach towards the research, pilot study was conducted in Manek Chowk, which is one of the oldest and famous Khau Galli of Ahmedabad city.

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3.7.1. Introduction Manek Chowk is a traditional business center and one of the Walled City's most important public spaces (refer figure 3-3). It demonstrates an excellent urban public space developed on the basis of traditional principles of city planning and thrives as a vibrant anchor community space in the modern context. It is named after saint Maneknath who interrupted and helped Ahmed Shah I built Bhadra Fort in 1411.

Manek Chowk's spatial and physical character has undergone a lot of change. The city's early map, dating back to the Sultanate, expresses its character as a square and clearly shows its importance in the city's overall fabric. As a transition point between urban and residential scale, it was an important space. The religious zone with a very strong axis was formed by the Jama Masjid, the king's tomb and the queen's tomb. The shops to be built were only those on the mosque's northern side. But later on all these three structures were surrounded by the shops over time. (Nirupama, 1995)

Figure 3-3 Location of Manek Chowk Source: Mungekar, N., & Mathews, R. (n.d.). Ahmedabad Urban Development Authority (AUDA). 42.

Currently, the surrounding shops sell gold and silver which can be approached from Gandhi Road. Today it is now an open space between 'Raja-no-Hajiro' and 'Rani-no-Hajiro’ on a larger scale.

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3.7.2. Major Activities Manek Chowk is an example of a dynamic traditional public space that constantly adapts to changes in order to be used effectively as an urban public place. Public activities change several times a day to meet specific needs and allow for effective use of the place. Manek chowk currently has both formal and informal activities in the open space. The multiplicity of space allows major activity to occur in a given space (refer figure 3-4).

Manek Chowk in particular has activities starting from morning 5 to 2 in the night. This includes religious, commercial and recreational activities in one space. The day begins to feed the cows on the streets. Rag and garbage picker also take walk through Manek Chowk in the morning from 5 to 7. Filling of water also takes place during this time period. The vehicular traffic starts to fill this time period. The vehicular traffic starts to fill the streets across the menu chowk area. Buying and selling of vegetables take place on the other side of make chowk where a vegetable market is situated.

The shopkeepers start to come and the opening of the shops occurs after 9:30 to 11o clock.

The formal selling of gold -silver and ornaments happen through to the day till 8 o clock.

Open shops of other goods like mukhwas and cloth have their shop’s pill-over in the open spaces. At time of 12 in the noon the hawkers come with miscellaneous items and stand between the center in the parking area. The center of space is occupied by parking through the day time.

After 8 in the vexing the change occurs to the character of Manek Chowk when the shops close and the center of the chock is occupied by food stalls and lahris of various kinds of food. This activity goes on till 2 to 3 o’clock in the night.

The next day comes along with this similar pattern of activities happening in the open space of Manek Chowk. The peak time of vehicular traffic is to be considered as 9 to 10 in the morning when the vehicles flow across the Manek Chowk making it lively and busy. In the night the street almost disappears and occupied by food-stalls leaving space for pedestrian movement for people to eat and shop.

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Figure 3-4 Timeline of Manek Chowk

3.7.3. Khau Galli at Manek Chowk Manek Chowk is one of the few food streets that remains open until late at night in Ahmedabad. As the darkness increases, the shopping and office activities i.e. down and one can see the food vendors entering the square and arranging their temporary stalls in the square. Such kind of stalls also line up on the east facade of the chowk. These food vendors and drink vendors sell items like Bhel puri, Pani puri, Bhaji Pau, ice cream and other eating and drinking items. Thus an informal eating place springs up on the sea square. The space again starts becoming very lively, as people start entering this square for refreshment.

Groups of people start collecting around each stall and one can see them using the tip plinths and the raised pathways for the purpose of sitting and cooking. The space near the west 37

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facade is occupied by main course stalls who spreads the tables and chairs on the chowk to invite the customers for sitting on and eating (refer figure 3-5). .

Figure 3-5 Map showing activities in Manek Chowk at night Source: Mungekar, N., & Mathews, R. (n.d.). Ahmedabad Urban Development Authority (AUDA). 42.

The south end is occupied by the snacks and desert stalls. Some of them who stand there arrange the food in a basket which is resting on a stand while some of them use tables to cook. Few chairs are also arranged along their serving tables for people to sit. Thus, one can feel a drastic change in character of the mane chowk at night.

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Figure 3-6 Evolution of Manek Chowk

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3.7.4. Documentation of Parameters Parameters from the conceptual framework are used to study the pilot case study which are explained below with required drawings: 1. Places to walk with some Leisure Manek Chowk has a lot of pedestrians. As there is no space to park vehicles next to the vendors, people park their vehicles at the start of the street and walk down to the food stalls (refer figure 3-7). The stalls are placed on both the sides of the street, so there is no specific footpath for walking. Thus the vehicular road itself is used for the pedestrian (refer figure 3-8). The available space for pedestrians, however, is very limited.

Figure 3-7 Street Section; the yellow highlight shows the place of the sketch below

Figure 3-8 Pedestrian and loading vehicles using the same street

Even though traffic movement is minimal at night, due to lack of segregation between traffic, extension of stalls on the sides and presence of hawkers, the walkability of the place is reduced. Approximately 5-6 meters of road is left open in the center for the pedestrian as

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well as vehicular movement (refer figure 3-9). Pedestrians are forced to negotiate with moving traffic and are vulnerable to accidents.

Figure 3-9 Map showing different street dimensions

As the food street is an informal place, specific footpaths are not designed for the safety of the people. There is a sense of crowding throughout the street till late hours, yet people do not find it uncomfortable even when their shoulders rub to others or a vehicle passes just next to them. Such behaviour of the people makes the nature of such street different.

2.

Physical Comfort

The street functions as Khau Galli from late night thus there is no impact of sun and wind on it. Yet the informal vendors use temporary structures as protection against the rain. Huge pieces of plastics are used by the vendors to cover their stalls and their specific sitting areas (refer figure 3-11). A lot of mixed noises are heard at the street like the vendors inviting people to come to their stalls, people buying different things from the hawkers, vehicle noises and people talking while enjoying their food (refer figure 3-10). Such high noise levels also reduces comfort in the public space where people find it difficult to talk and also overhear other people’s talks.

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Figure 3-10 Food stalls use plastics to cover the sitting area

i.

ii.

Figure 3-11 Vendors use plastics for shade

4.

Definition

In general, the Walled City's public spaces are intimate in scale with a built form of two to three story buildings that open to narrow and mutually shaded public spaces to reduce the heat gain in buildings. The public spaces are of human scale and have been supporting public life through centuries; however, in the present context they are dominated by vehicles (refer figure 3-13). The square and its surroundings have a built-up area of high density and form a spatially continuous street and open space organization. The Chowk Manek, the open space, is L shaped. One arm of the L is bounded by the tombs of the kings.

The other arm is bounded by the Queen's tomb and Muhurat Pol.

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The elements that make up the street's edge are mainly the volume of niche located in the structural bay width of the ‘Pol’ houses (refer figure 3-14). Shops staircases, the plinth extension in the shops, sidewalks, concrete paving areas as in front of the stock exchange and most prominently the signboards of the various shops for traders adds definition to the street. The built edge offers trade and socialization opportunities. All the buildings are adjoined with each other following the character of typical ‘Pol’ housing, leaving no space between the buildings (refer figure 3-12). They give the square and the open space a sense of enclosure and containment, a scale and proportion that expresses its public nature, but at the same time has a visitor's presence on the ground level, since they occupy its normal cone of perception.

Figure 3-12 Street Elevation

Figure 3-13 Street Ratio

The discontinuous skyline, staggered continuous massing façades are in a consistent rhythm, but with subtly diverse elements - the horizontal control of flora lines, but different sizes and details of openings and overhangs give the space a lively quality (refer figure 3-15).

Figure 3-14Street Elevation

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Figure 3-15 Staggering skyline created by pol houses

4.

Qualities that engage the Eyes

People prefer to have interesting sight lines and vistas while in the public spaces. While Manek Chowk is a historic precinct with monuments of rich architectural heritage, the presence of the monuments is not felt due to lack of clear views. It is observed that in the present context the views of the Chowk are highly cluttered and does not reflect the heritage values of the place (refer figure 3-16).

Figure 3-16 Rich heritage buildings with food stalls hoardings

The informal vendors and the other hawkers create an opportunity for a variety of activities.

The place is full of high intensity of retail activities and shops during the day time, thus the boarding of different shops engage the eye of the visitors. This decreases the importance of 44

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the food vendors thus they hang temporary plastic hoarding in front to the shops to attract the eyes of the visitors. The interesting facades can also become an important quality of the street, yet the details are not completed visible due to the lack of lights on them.

5.

Transparency

Buildings in the Walled City traditionally have seating doorways called ' otlas, ' which are either one or more elevated steps at the entrance to the shop or building. These are used as informal seating spaces, which are often shared by neighbouring homes / shops. However, the availability of these spaces in Manek Chowk is limited and are claimed commercial activities. Manek Chowk's side bounded by the King's tomb and the Queen's tomb, forming the first part of Manek Chowk's L on the west side, consists primarily of shops for jewelers on the ground floor and stock stores on the first and second floors.

i.

ii.

Figure 3-17 The food vendors hang their hoardings on the shop shutters

The shutters of the shops on the ground floor and their hoardings maintains the transparency between the public realm and the private realm (refer figure 3-17). Though the shutters are closed at night, it doesn't keep the visitors in any mystery of the activities going at the edge of the street.

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6.

Physical Maintenance

Inspite of the bins a lot of garage is found on the road and near the stalls as these bins get over flooded with the garbage and the people here have a hobby of throwing things on road.

Thus the street is cleaned and the remaining garbage is picked up in the early morning.

Presence of garbage, dust, animal waste, waste water and insect repels enjoyment of the Chowk. Effective waste management and periodical cleaning could contribute towards better experience of the Chowk.

7.

Quality of Construction and Design

The buildings are mainly narrow and deep, two- or three - story timber constructions. The building bays set up a rhythm in which the matching floor lines create a uniformity that reads it as a continuous faรงade. This provides a framework in which different elements combine to give the environment a dynamic quality.

i.

ii.

Figure 3-18 Traditional architecture buildings

Some of the buildings in the area are still of the 15th century traditional architectural style.

There is still an ornate fenestration, decorated holdings, wooden architecture and articulation and fine craftsmanship behind the profile of signage and billboards (refer figure

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3-18). Due to various pressures, most old buildings have been demolished and new buildings have been built over the years. The overall massing of the constructed form has not been altered, however, and the qualitative aspects of the open space, such as the scale, proportion, degree of enclosure, edge, etc., are retained.

The second arm of the L of Manek Chowk, which is bounded by shops surrounding the tomb of the Queen (1480) and the pol of Muhurat (1412), is mainly typical. The Muhurat Pol area side consists of typical timber - built residences with jewelers ' shop fronts. These shops ' plots are long or deep with a narrow front. The shops of these jewelers have a small platform like the first-floor area. This is approximately 1.7 to 1.9 m from the ground. The lower shops are therefore small and low, while the square space extends to these platform types of spaces and generates porosity to the built environment due to the height of the eye level. Manek Chowk's tin roofed shops are made of bricks and timber with a very temporary visual quality. Elements such as plinths bind the stores to the open space. During the day, the character of the place transforms from the structure's very temporary look to a rich and complex dynamic, visual quality at night.

The street is made of ‘Tar’ as its main purpose is for vehicular movement, but stones are used in an asymmetric manner merging with the roads. This separates the entrances of the shops from the main street. The stalls of food vendors on the west are made up of simple framework of aluminum. Plastic chairs with aluminum tables are used while makes them easy to clean.

8. i.

Qualities that Contribute Trees

No tress are found in the Khau Galli of Manek Chowk except one in the Queen tomb which is visible from the main street. As this tree is within the boundary of the Queen’s tomb, it cannot be counted as the part of the food street. ii.

Beginnings and Endings

The street doesn't have specific gateways or other physical elements for the entrance of the Khau Galli, but different activities mark the beginning and ending of the street. Toys, clothes and other hawkers attracts the crowds at the ends of the streets on the both the sides (refer figure 3-19). Such density of crowd and noise gives an idea of the active street as the areas surrounding are quite silent and dark at night.

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Figure 3-19 Vegetable hawkers at the entrance of the street

iii.

Special Design Feature: Details

There is tall light pole at the center of the chowk which engages eyes during the day but is not given that much importance at night as it gets hidden in the coziness of the stalls and their light bulbs and light pols at the surrounding (refer figure 3-20). The other special features are the architectural details of the surrounding buildings which attracts all the visitors during the day as well as night.

Figure 3-20 Street Section with light pole

iv.

Pause Points: Places

The chowk itself becomes a pause point in the whole street as it is hidden when seen from north and south end of the street which are comparatively narrow. On the other side, different hawkers also creates personal pause points for the visitors (refer figure 3-21 i). v.

Accessibility and Parking

There is no specific parking spaces allotted thus people park their vehicles parallel to the shops and the main road before entering the main chowk (refer figure 3-21 ii).

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i.

ii.

Figure 3-21 (i.) Map showing pause points (ii.) Map showing accessibility

vi.

Density

The Chowk Manek, the open space, is L shaped. One arm of the L is bounded by the tombs of the kings. The second arm of the L of Manek Chowk, which is bounded by shops surrounding the tomb of the Queen and the pol of Muhurat, is mainly typical. The Muhurat Pol area side consists of residences with jeweler’s shop fronts. As a transition point between urban and residential scale, it is an important space with a very strong axis formed by the Jama Masjid, the king's tomb and the queen's tomb with Manek Chowk in between.

3.7.

Theoretical Framework

The pilot study of Manek Chowk was based on the parameters derived by Allan Jacobs in his book ‘Great Streets’. His derived parameters talk about the pattern of blocks and streets, topography and natural features and other physical aspects that define the streets which are very helpful in understanding the nature of any street. However, since Khau Gallis are informal places that are not designed as food streets for the specific purpose, these parameters do not help to understand their nature completely.

During the pilot study, it was understood that beyond the physical boundary there is also a psychological boundary which influences people’s behaviour in such informal spaces.

Informal places emerge out of a symbiotic relationship between those who make a living

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out of a place and those who consume, experience and in turn sustain those who make a living out of it. Thus, Khau Gallis are the places made by people for their own interest. For this reason, narrative data is also very necessary, together with scientific data, which is possible through the interaction with the sample. The sample here are the human beings and the physical aspects are the elements which are encourage the sample to be in that place. As the experience of such places varies from person to person, it is important to know the different thoughts of the people from the city. Thus, along with the edition of the current parameters, a very important parameter named ‘Users’ was added where people’s opinion about the place can be own through interviews.

However, the old parameters are refined along with the addition of the new parameters which will be used for understanding the nature of Khau Gallis in the further field work (refer table 3-2). The table below discusses the theoretical framework of the new search parameters and their summary: Table 3-2 Theoretical Framework

No.

1.

Parameters

Location

Defining the Parameter

The location can have a major impact on the development of such informal streets. It can also define the history and existence of the place's background. The density around the street creates the environment of the place.

2.

Physical

The physical character of the Khau Galli can be defined into two

Character

parts: 1. Of the immediate edge 2. Of the food vendors. The coziness of the place, placement of the stalls and the sitting area makes the character of the Khau Gallis.

3..

Quality

of There's nothing like the good or poor quality of a building or

Construction

design, it's always about using the right material at the right place

and Design

to create the right quality of the built environment for the street.

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4.

Walkability

Street should provide people with the rich experience (on foot) and give them the opportunity to meet people on the way. Sense of crowding and safe walking becomes important aspects in such informal places.

5.

Comfort

The street should be comfortable at both physical as well as psychological aspect. This creates the leisure for the passing people.

6.

Definition

The definition of a street should be sensitive to humans, it should create a ratio (width: height) or sensitive proportions to human scale that can enhance the street's dynamic nature while experiencing it. The streets are also defined by the psychological boundary which is the area of influence.

7.

Layers

Khau Gallis is more than just a matter of food sellers. The nature of any Khau Gallis is formed by different layers of activity.

8.

Transparency Each street has its own level of transparency through the street and the surrounding structures. This depends largely on the community and the type of activity around it.

9.

Physical

It is more than a matter of keeping things clean in a good repair

Maintenance

format, but it involves the usage of materials that are relatively easy to maintain and street elements which has some history of carrying.

10.

11.

Time

During different hours of the day, different activities can take place

Contrast

at the same place. Such activities can change the street's nature.

Physical Qualities that Contribute

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i

Trees

Life and quality of the street can be improved with its numbers.

ii

Beginnings

Interesting beginnings and endings in the mind of peoples can

and Endings

create identity.

Special

It can give that place a special meaning. Gates, fountains, benches,

Design

kiosks, paving, lights, signs, canopies, etc. can be used as a design

Features:

feature.

iii

Details iv

Pause Places

A distinctive open space along the route that can serve as a stopping point for the community and act as a major community meeting place.

v

12.

Accessibility Accessibility means direct access to the different ways and and Parking

secondary access to the street.

Users

The nature and perception of visitors is very important, as users are the most important part of the informal places.

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4. Nani Khau Galli, Anand

Anand is the administrative center of Anand District in the state of Gujarat, India. It is administered by Anand Municipality. It is part of the region known as Charotar, consisting of Anand and Kheda Districts. Anand is known as the Milk Capital of India. The town has an area of 22,7 km2 and Anand City's urban area is 172 km2 including 25 villages around the town. Rapid economic growth on the road belt of Anand - Vallabh Vidya Nagar and Karamsad has been seen.

In this city of vibrant economy, there are two oldest Khau Galli located next to the city’s main attractions. The oldest one is known as the ‘Moti Khau Galli’ which is situated in Vallabh Vidyanagar area. Although the Khau Galli began as an informal space, it was eventually transformed into a commercial building in which the ground floor now consists of well - known restaurants and the upper floors are allocated to various commercial activities. The second oldest is called ‘Nani Khaudhari Galli’ which is located in front of the ‘Town Hall’. This place has been the same with an informal experience of its own since all these years. Although the city has developed many open food courts, in today's time these places have their own significance.

5.1. Documentation of Parameters Parameters from the theoretical framework are used to study the pilot case study which are explained below with required drawings: 1. Location Nani Khaudhari Galli is situated in front of the ‘Town Hall’ parallel to the Anand - Borsad road. It is located in a private open ground that opens up to the main Town Hall road, one of the most famous and busy roads of the city (refer figure 4-1). The Khau Galli's location has been its prominent advantage throughout these years.

Due to its location on the main road, the Khau Gall attracts all travelers to Nadid and Borsad. As Anand is a very small city, the small towns around the city has a big impact on the Khau Galli. It attracts students from the nearby Vallabh Vidhypith and Anand Law and

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Commerce Collage opposite the road. During the daytime, the students help maintaining the crowd. The Khau Galli started many years ago with some localists and other migrants from Rajasthan who came to Anand in urge of job.

Figure 4-1 Figure Ground of Anand with Khau Galli highlighted

2. Physical Character The Khau Galli is made in a vertical patch on a vacant ground where it is bounded by a common dead wall on one side and the other side opens in the ground (refer figure 4-3).

The food stall owners use various private fencing to define its edge. Some of them have used bamboo fencing cover with green shade net with others have wire fencing. The Khau Galli's end is also fenced with wire that opens up to the ground as well.

Figure 4-2 Street section

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The stalls are placed on both the sides of the street under a frame structure with sloping roof covered with huge plastics and green shade nets (refer figure 4-5). All the stalls are made of standard size which is 1.6m x 1.1m with aluminum sheets. Each food stall has its own table and chairs which they place in from of the table. The Pan Puri and Chatwala and other dessert stalls have only chairs placed in a line in front of the stall (refer figure 4-3).

The placement of the stalls and the sitting area makes it easy for people to serve food.

Figure 4-3 Placement of tables in front of stall

The space between the stall and the fence is used as the back space where all the food material is stored and cut. Even some of the stalls have made temporary platforms to keep their extra stove and other utensils (refer figure 4-6).

Figure 4-4 Fence as a boundary

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Figure 4-5 Nani Khau Galli Plan

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Figure 4-6 Wall as a boundary

3. Quality of Construction and Design As mentioned above the frame structure is made up of bamboo sticks tied together with jute threads (refer figure 4-7). Half of the first columns in the row are replaced with concrete casted columns designed from such a frame work. The top of the concrete column has a U shape which holds the bamboo sticks supporting the roof (refer figure 4-8).

Figure 4-7 Bamboo Joinery

Huge plastics and green shade net are used to cover the frame structure. Even the fencing on one side is made of the same materials while the other side the wall is made of concrete.

As the Khau Galli is on the vacant ground, specific tar road is not made. All the food stalls

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have their personal light bulbs hanging from the roof, where the wires are tied up with the bamboo sticks. The light bulbs hang upon the stall and each table.

i.

ii.

Figure 4-8 Concrete columns and bamboo sticks are used for the framework

4. Walkability The stalls are placed on both the sides of the street, allowing people to walk in the middle.

The total distance of the Khau Galli is 78 meters which makes it comfortable for people of any age group to walk (refer figure 4-9).

Figure 4-9 Street section with dimensions

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Figure 4-10 Stalls placed on both the sides

The place seems to be longitudinally long because of its placement in a vertical patch and the continuous columns of the frame structure. The feeling of crowing is divided along the entire street as the stalls are placed on both sides (refer figure 4-10). Therefore, there is no particular space where the crowd is forced as the people spread along the entire Khau Galli patch that keeps the street in the center open for walkability. The vehicles which are parked in this space disturbs this clear stretch for walking.

5. Comfort The Khau Galli functions during the day as well as night thus the owners of the stalls have built continuous sloping frame structure for the protection form the weather. The frame structure is covered with huge plastics to get protected from the rain and sun.

Figure 4-11 Placement of stalls and seating area

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During the daytime, as the weather in the city is hot, the stall owners sprinkle water on the middle road to free themselves from the flies and mosquitoes and even settle the sand on the ground and maintain the coolness. The placement of the stalls make the place comfortable for the people to walk and go to the desired food stall. The tables are also kept at an appropriate distance from each other which makes it easy for people to talk and enjoy the food (refer figure 4-11). But as the Khau Galli faces the main road, there are plenty of vehicle noises throughout the entire experience.

6. Definition The Khau Galli boundary is defined by the wall and the fencing on each sides. The columns gives the felling of continuity and also describes the street from the main road (refer figure 4-13). Each food stall is placed in between two columns with its sitting area in front. Thus the columns also visually divides the places of the food stalls.

Figure 4-12 Street section with all dimensions

Figure 4-13 Concrete columns in line

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The height of the frame structure varies from 2.5 to 3.5 meters on the street (refer figure 412). Compared to the rest, the food stalls at the beginning have small columns in height, yet the whole place is appropriate to the human scale.

7. Layers Besides the food stalls, the Khau Galli has other activities. On one side, the first shop is a garment shop called ' Fashion Junction, ' followed by food stalls (refer figure 4-15). The first shop, on the other hand, is a vegetable vendor next to a tea stall, followed by a pan parlour (refer figure 4-14). The main food stalls start after the pan parlour. Other toy and balloon hawkers stand in the starting of the street during the night time attracting the children.

Figure 4-14 Tea stall and Pan Parlour

Figure 4-15 Garment shop

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8. Transparency The Khau Galli boundary is defined by the wall and the fencing on each sides. Small parts of the fencing are kept open as the stall owners use the back of the Khau Galli, which is the open space for activities such as collecting and washing the utensils used. The green net thus gives transparency to the vacant ground and activities that are taking place there, while the dead wall on the other side blocks the vision (refer figure 4-17).

Figure 4-16 Wire fencing at the end

Figure 4-17 Holes in the fencing

At the end of the Khau Galli, the wire fence provides a clear view of the small patch of the ground and the houses on the other side (refer figure 4-16). Visually, the public and the private realm meet here.

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9. Physical Maintenance The food is served in plastic plates which decreases the amount of paper plates waste. These plastic plates are washed in the open ground behind the fence, so these activities are kept physically and visually away from the visitors. All the food stalls keep their private dustbins close to the stalls, as the person at the food stall throws the waste himself and then gives the plate for washing. All the waste from this dustbins are thrown into the municipality dustbin by the stall owners during their way home at late night.

The center place for walking quite dirty as the stall keeper pushes all the waste on the ground towards the center while cleaning their own sitting areas. Even visitors throw waste into the center space like plastic bottles, food packets and much more.

10. Time Contrast The Khau Galli is a permanent street thus it is open all day till mid night. The vegetable vendor, the garment shop, tea stall and the pan parlour starts their day from 9:30 in the morning. Some of the food stalls starts their day at 11 a.m. as there is a crowd of students during the afternoon. Almost all the food stalls started preparing for the night from afternoon with various activities like cleaning and cutting of all the vegetable and breads, washing and arranging the chairs and tables, cleaning the other utensils for serving and much more. Even the loading of the materials happen during the day time when the crowd is less compared to night.

The Khau Galli is open till mid night, where the crowd increases from late evening. The main peak hours of the Khau Galli is 7 p.m. - 10 p.m., after which the crowd gradually decreases. The place is more active in the weekends compared to the weekdays.

11. Qualities that Contribute i.

Trees

There are lot of trees in this Khau Galli, as it is located in a vacant ground full of trees. No trees were cut during the contraction of the frame structure; thus many trees are seen coming out of the rood of the structure (refer figure 4-18). As the place is already shaded, the tress does not provide an extra shade to the place nor are used for any other activity.

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Figure 4-18 Street elevation

ii.

Beginnings and Endings

The street doesn't have specific gateways or other physical elements for the entrance of the Khau Galli, but the garment shop and the vegetable vendor mark the beginning of the street.

As it is facing the main road, the stalls start after a small patch of land which people use for parking. The end of the Khau Galli is defined by a wire fence, which restricts from entering the ground. Even the density of crowd and noise gives an idea of the active street from the main road. iii.

Special Design Feature: Details

There are no specific design features in this Khau Galli, as it is located in a vacant ground there are no interesting surrounding that attract the visitors. It is only food that attract them. iv.

Pause Points: Places

The vegetable vendor becomes a pause point for many of the visitors otherwise there are no specific pause points in the street (refer figure 4-19). The visions directly go to their desired food stall after paring their vehicles. Different toy and balloon hawkers creates personal pause points for the visitors. v.

Accessibility and Parking

The small patch of land adjoining the road is used for parking for two wheelers and car, but as that much space is not enough, people park their vehicles in the middle space in front of the tables and chair. Even the stall owners park their vehicles in front of their stalls and sometimes besides their stalls.

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Figure 4-19 Vegetable Vendor

12. Users The street started with 5-8 food vendors who had either migrated to the city for more business opportunities or was a localist. Gradually the food vendors increased with time and today there are 27 food stalls approximately. The timings of the food vendors are induvially different, according to the food they sell. For example, the Bhel and Chat stall starts at 2 pm while the Pav Bhaji stall starts from 6 pm. The rush hours of the street remain the same from 7:30 pm to 10:30 pm. The Khau Galli is made on a private land, where all the food vendors pay monthly rent of 7000. All the food vendors have a license of ‘Food and Truck’ from the Home Science College which they renew every year.

Figure 4-20 Kadhiyawadi Lassi Stall

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All the food vendors assert to have their regular customers who prefer to bring their guests along because of different reasons. “All the food vendors here use batteries for the light and thus there are no refrigerators to store food. Because of this they make fresh food every day which an estimate of every day’s crowd, thus a lot of wastage is avoided. Due to this fresh food is guaranteed here and this is the main reason behind the crowd” says the owner of the Kathiyawadi Lassi center Jayesh Bhai. Today because of the onset of food delivery system like Zomato, their business is decreasing. Thus many food vendors have registered their selves with Zomato.

Since 20 years this Khau Galli has been a place where people of all ages come together.

People prefer to come here with their friends and family on a regular basis. “This place is more comfortable to sit and enjoy with friends compared to restaurants” says a collegian Dhruv Patel. Whereas a localist shares that her visits to the street has decreased after the rush of new restaurants in the city, as she thinks that the restaurants have a better food quality and taste.

Figure 4-21 People enjoying Chaat

Some people come here because of the particulate food items like the Pani Puri and Bhel, and they also bring their guests along for some munching. Everyone has their own reasons for the decrease in their visits to the street. Some people point out the cleanliness issue, while some find it not to eat at such open spaces. When asked about improving the facilities here, many people agreed to come more often even because of the location of the street.

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5. Supermarket Raatri Bazar, Jamnagar

Jamnagar is a city located on India’s west cost in the Saurashtra region of Gujarat state. It is the district’s administrative headquarters. Jamnagar is the largest city on India’s westernmost side and comes fifth after Ahmedabad, Surat, Vadodara and Rajkot in Gujarat.

Jam Saheb Shri Digvijaysinhji Ranjitsinhji developed the city substantially in the 1940s, when it was part of the Prince’s state of Nawanagar. World’s biggest oil refineries, belonging to Reliance Industries and Essar Oil are located here, thus it is also known as ‘World’s Oil City’.

Like people in other parts of Gujarat, Jamnagar people also fall into the ‘Foodies’ category.

The ‘Jamnagari Mukhwas’ and the special ‘Dry Fruit Kachori’ are the main attractions for tourist. For those with a sweet tooth, the city is no disappointment to you as there are a number of milk and dry fruit sweet shops renowned for their specialties.

The two most famous and old Khau Gallis of the city are Patel Colony and Supermarket Ratri Bazar. In the past, the idea of Khau Galli started on the street outside of the gambling shops which was known as ‘Jau Bazar’. The demand of food stalls increased as people started spending more time on gambling. As the time passed, the gambling shops were closed by the government and these food stalls speared around the city. Supermarket Raatri Bazar serves as a perfect delight for street food lovers; serving all kinds of India cuisine including chaats, Chinese, south Indian, ice creams and more.

6.1. Documentation of Parameters Parameters from the theoretical framework are used to study the pilot case study which are explained below with required drawings: 1. Location Supermarket Ratri Bazar is situated in a street behind the Supermarket which is a very old building at the edge of the three roads with shops at the ground floor and commercial offices at the above floors (refer figure 5-1). Thus the area itself is known as Supermarket which is located in the old city. There was a theatre named ‘Jay Shree Cinema’ in front of the

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Supermarket, one of the oldest of the city which was demolished and replaced by a shopping mall a year ago.

The very old Nawanagar Government High School is adjacent to the Supermarket on one side of the Khau Galli, while on the other side of the street there are various residences such as pol houses and flats adjacent to the shopping mall and a Dargha next to it. Due to its location close to the supermarket and the theatre, people were attracted to the food stalls and thus the street became famous gradually with time.

Figure 5-1 Figure Ground of Jamnagar with Khau Galli highlighted

2. Physical Character The Khau Galli is on the street in the vertical patch where there is on one side an old colonial building that was the Nawanagar School in the past. Currently, on both sides of the building, the school has been expanded, so the colonial building has no ongoing activities yet is a part of the school campus. The building’s plan is in cross-shape, so the street offsets are used by the food stalls to place tables and chairs (refer figure 5-5).

Here the food stalls stand facing the street and their sitting facilities are behind the food stalls (refer figure 5-3). Food stalls use the steps of the colonial building to keep and clean the utensils.

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Figure 5-2 Placement of tables in front of houses

There are various residential buildings on the other side of the street. There are pol houses opening on the street which are followed by new bungalows and apartments. The pol houses’ first house has long been turned into a restaurant. The food stalls stand in front of the houses where the chairs and tables are placed between the two stalls (refer figure 5-2).

Figure 5-3 Food vendors in front of the colonial building

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Figure 5-4 Street Section with stalls and sitting facilities

3. Quality of Construction and Design The school building is made of colonial style architecture with a rubble coursed stone masonry with quoins at the edges. The building is of two floors including the ground floor with a pedimented above with a decorative round window (refer figure 5-7). The Palladian style decorative iron doors are seen on the ground floor, while windows with cornice details are seen on the first floor (refer figure 5-8). On the other side the houses are made of bricks with a continuous facade. The idea of different houses is given by different colours used in the facade.

Figure 5-5 Pediment details

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Figure 5-6 Supermarket Raatri Bazar plan

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All the food stalls have their individual light bulbs hanging over the stall, yet the street lights helps. As the Khau Galli is on the secondary street, the road is made of Tar.

i.

ii.

Figure 5-7 Colonial architecture details

4. Walkability As the Khau Galli is on the secondary street from the junction, there are no pathways allocated for the pedestrian movement. The vehicles and the people use the same road.

Residential buildings on one side of the street, encourages continuous vehicular movement.

This makes the street unsafe for people to walk (refer figure 5-9).

Since the sitting facilities are behind the food stalls next to the school buildings wall, the vehicles don’t disturb the people while enjoying food. Which is completely opposite on the side of the street where the tables and chairs are placed between two stalls next to the pol houses wall.

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Figure 5-8 Street section with street dimensions

5. Comfort The street completely functions as Khau Galli at night, yet 2-3 food stalls are seen during the day time serving breakfast and other snacks. These vendors use temporary structures as protection against the sun and rain. Huge pieces of plastics and green net cloth are tied from the school building with their food stalls (refer figure 5-10). The sitting facilities are placed under the shade.

Figure 5-9 Food vendors use plastics for shade

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Figure 5-10 Sitting arrangements in the offset of the building

The placement of the tables and chairs in the offset of the buildings keeps them away from the moving vehicles (refer figure 5-11). Lot of cows sit next the school building, encouraging lot of flies and mosquitos yet people seem to be comfortable there as the quantity of crowd remains the same.

6. Definition The Khau Galli is defined on both sides by the facades of the buildings where the boundary of the school acts as an area of influence. The old school building consists of colonial style architecture with a plan of cross shape (refer figure 5-12). The height of the building is 15 meters with stairs at the entrance on the ground floor (refer figure 5-14).

Figure 5-11 Elevation A

On the other side of the road all the houses and buildings are adjoined with each other following the character of typical ‘Pol’ housing, leaving no space between the buildings (refer figure 5-13).

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Figure 5-12 Elevation B

The houses are placed on the 1-meter high plinth, so the tables and chairs do not interfere with the houses’ entrance. Such rich architecture enhances the importance of the Khau Galli and makes it an interesting place to eat and enjoy with such an appealing surrounding.

Figure 5-13 Street section with dimensions

7. Layers Besides the food stalls, the street has other activities on the both the sides. The street starts with a supermarket on one side and shopping mall on other side. There is famous and old ‘Geeta Cold Drinks’ shop in the supermarket which opens till late. The school and the Dargha are adjacent to the supermarket and shopping mall respectively. After the Dargha there is a commercial building with garments shop below followed by an advocate’s office and then typical pol houses (refer figure 5-17).

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Figure 5-14 Plan showing different layers of the street

Moreover, like all the other public spaces, balloon and toy hawkers stand in the starting of the street during the night time attracting the children. The street ends with the residential buildings around thus no important activities are seen there except the cows sitting on the road side with the huge dustbins (refer figure 5-15).

Figure 5-15 Restaurant in front of the building

8. Transparency On the one hand, the colonial building does not give us the idea of its function as an old school. The decorative iron doors keep the building transparent yet do not define its function. As the window shutters are made of wood, there is no transparency to its first floor. While it is defined as housed on the other side by the facades, some of them function differently. In one of the houses there is a lawyer’s office and next to it there is another office that has been vacant for a long time (refer figure 5-19). The public and private realms meet here visually.

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Figure 5-16 School hoarding

Figure 5-17 Advocate office in front of the building

9. Physical Maintenance The food is served in plastic plates that reduce the waste from paper plates. These plastic plates are washed in huge tubs which are kept on the stairs of the buildings. All the food stalls keep their private dustbins close to the stalls, as the person at the food stall throws the waste himself and then gives the plate for washing. Later on all the waste is thrown in the government dustbins which are placed next to the colonial building (refer figure 5-20).

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Figure 5-18 Cows sitting next to the building

i.

ii.

Figure 5-19 Different usage of the stairs

People throw waste in the colonial building through its iron doors, thus the porch of the building is filled with garbage. The road and the sides with the sitting facilities are quite dirty as visitors throw waste into the place like plastic bottles, food packets and much more.

The stairs of the building is used for collecting and washing utensils (refer figure 5-21).

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10. Time Contrast The Khau Galli is a temporary street where maximum number of food stalls are arranged from 5 in the evening which runs till mid night. Since the colonial building is not activate, some food stalls stand there whole day serving breakfast and snack during the day time.

The restaurant is open all day till mid night and the other shops and offices are closed by late evening. Therefore a busy food street is found only at night.

11. Qualities that Contribute i.

Trees

Two small trees are seen at the end of the colonial building next to the entrance of the school. Some stalls stand under the tree, yet they don’t provide any protection from the shade. Thus the trees have no specific importance in the street. ii.

Beginnings and Endings

The street begins from the supermarket, but the food stalls are placed after the school entrance. The street further ends into a residential area where it merges the other main road from the other side. The street gains a curvy character at the end (refer figure 5-22).

Figure 5-20 Plan showing the beginnings and endings of the street

iii.

Special Design Feature: Details

The colonial building become the special features of this Khau Galli as its architecture style engaged the visitor’s eyes. iv.

Pause Points: Places

There are no specific pause points in the Khau Galli, as the supermarket and shopping mall closes by night yet they are far from the food stalls.

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v.

Accessibility and Parking

The vehicles are parked along the food stalls in front of the commercial building and the shopping mall.

Figure 5-21 Food vendors in a row

vi.

Users

The street started approximately 25 years ago when 3-4 food vendors moved to this area from the ‘Jau Bazar’. With time the food vendors increased as more people started coming because of its location. “Before there was a Jayshree Cinema here, and because of that I had bought this place for my restaurant.” adds the owner of the Banasari food stall.

Figure 5-22 Banasari Food Stall

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Today there are approximately 15 food stalls selling different food items. The timings of the food vendors are induvially different, according to the food they sell. For example, the Gathiya and Fafda stall starts from the morning 8 while the Pav Bhaji stall starts from 6 pm. The rush hours of the street remain the same from 7:30 pm to 10:30 pm.

When compared to restaurants, people don’t find this place more comfortable because of the cleanliness issue and the garbage that is increasing in the colonial building. “Before the scenario was different. This place use to be clean before when we were young. And even didn’t have that much of money to go to restaurants and eat. There were no lot of options of restaurants before. But now everything has changed. We have more options to choose from so we come less here” says a localist Purav Mistry.

Figure 5-23 People enjoying food

On talking about the improvements to be done in the street the major point out was towards the cleanliness and hygiene. “Off course. This place use to be a very prominent place before. This old building behind is very attractive and I think if this place is improved people can enjoy food here” says a visitor Jyoti Shah.

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6. Conclusion

6.1.

About the Study

This study was conducted to explore the nature of Khau Gallis and how they are responsible for sociability to maintain the public realm in the city. Different objectives were made to fulfill the aim of the thesis which included studying and understanding the relationship between food and urban spaces in the Indian Culture. The other objectives of the study were also to identify the parameters that define the characteristic of the Khau Gallis and then to document the selected Khau Gallis through the theoretical framework. To achieve the above objectives methods like Literature Study, Pilot Case Study, Field Work were used which are elaborated in the Methodology chapter above.

6.2.

Key Findings

Food makes an important element in creating urban spaces in the public realm. Food streets which are refereed as Khau Gallis in Gujarat are found in different locations, adding life to the city. These places inform us of a very essential process of public relationships with structure which manifest into physical places as a response to socio-economic needs of its people.

The first objective was to understand the relationship of food and urban space, there is indeed a strong relationship between them. However, that relationship is very volatile as the psychological behaviour of the people brings them to this kind of spaces. Khau Gallis are the spaces which have emerged out from the built form of the city. What I found in Gujarat unlike Chappan Dukan in Indore and couple of streets in Delhi, there are streets which are designed as food street, however the Khau Gallis which I have encountered in Gujarat have a temporary nature. The pilot study done in Manek Chowk is also temporary in nature because the built form is made for some other activities. These are the spaces that are offered temporary nature both by structure and time wise. These streets are not designed as food streets. So here streets are more of an accidental food streets. Relationship with its urban or public realm, that matter is more of a spontaneous manner.

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The characteristics of an individual city also contributes to such informal places. In case of Gujarat Khau Gallis are not designed, there is always a need to eat out and the climate always encourages since antiquity that people wanted to eat out at the same time the entrepreneurism of the society always ask people to come out in public realm to interact.

For that many cities of India do not have food streets for example Chatishdargh and Madhya Pardesh.

These Khau Gallis carry forward a history of their own. After observing their importance in the city from such a long time, the government have formally accepted them. Like the presence of Law Garden Khau Galli of Ahmedabad and Raatri Bazar of Baroda has been institutionalised by the government. Whereas in case of Rajkot and Anand the food stall holders need a license from the government.

The second objective was to identify the parameters that define the characteristic of the Khau Gallis by referring to Allan Jacobs ‘Great Streets’. As mentioned in the methodology chapter, Jacobs parameters were good enough to start the field work, however from the field work I figured out the informality in this kind of public realm actually requires looking at more depth into the Indianess of the public realm. Therefore to study two more streets I hade to add more parameters to Jacobs framework. These parameters helped in understanding the nature of Khau Gallis with reference to its physical and psychological boundary.

After documenting the streets through theoretical framework as per the third objective, it was observed that the physical nature of the buildings and the land use also influences the development of such places. If we talk about the selected cases, all the three Khau Gallis were located in the centre of the old city. In case of Jamnagar, the Khau Galli emerged in front of the school and the market. Today even if the school has shifted, the building form of the school encourages its continuity. Like in Anand, the barren land and the dead walls in the city centre near to the Town Hall helped in the emergence of the Khau Galli.

After the interaction with people, it was noticed that due to the emerging food courts and online services the streets seem to lose its sociability. People tend to eat at home more rather than coming out in the streets like before. Due to this the food stalls owners have also registered themselves to be a part of such online services. Yet there are many people 84

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who still continue to enjoy food at Khau Gallis as it behave as a third place to them where they communicate and relax with other people.

6.3.

Learning

The research has been done to understand the nature of Khau Gallis and its importance in the city for maintaining the public realm. During the study various findings and analysis draw attention towards many of the points for learnings and discussions, which can be taken into consideration.

Since time immemorial, people have been making places to appropriate and inhabit their surroundings. Place is not an astatic concept, but a transformation that is ever changing.

Transformations carry forward certain continuities to give character to the place. The change in such places depends on the people who contribute to its making. Along with the people, the land use also plays a vital role. These informal places are usually attracted by places or buildings that are not currently in use. In India, people gather at the end of every lane and cross roads at night. In such cases the building’s form give birth to such informal places. The Khau Gallis in India are a part of such phenomena. Thus public realm can be described as surroundings built form plus land use.

The framework of Allan Jacobs contains the parameters which can be used for the study of normal streets. Whereas in the context to the various other streets with different purpose in various cities and towns, the same framework needs to be refined as per the regional context. One of the major learning out of the study was the importance of perception analysis. Field documentation in terms of really looking at the people, built structures, interacting with people is very crucial to understand such places particularly because Khau Gallis is all about the identity of that place.

The selection of correct methodology is also very important for the accurate output of the research. To be specific, the selection of pilot case study plays a major role by setting the various guidelines for the further field work. The inferences from the pilot case study were helpful in shaping the further research, which leads to a theoretical framework that can be used for the study of Khau Gallis of India.

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Streets are what makes the public realm more than anything else. They are the public's pr operty or under direct public control. An exciting as it is challenging is the opportunity to design gems in ways that meet public goals, including making the community itself.

If we do the right thing on our streets, we can do the right thing for the city as a whole, an d hence, and most importantly, for its inhabitants. The best new streets are not the same a s the old ones, but the old ones have a lot to teach as models. Delightful, purposeful street s and quotations are sure to follow. If these streets are not maintained than along with the public realm, the city will also lose its identity. For example what would Ahmedabad be without Manek Chowk, or Delhi without the Rajpath?

6.4.

Way Forward

This research is an attempt to understand the nature of a Khau Gallis and its importance in creating public realm. Through this study I have developed a framework which can be very useful to study food streets of India, which are not so well documented because of its temporariness. As there is no permanent spatial nature of the food streets thus it becomes very tricky how one documents it. This thesis was an attempt to give a framework to study food streets. I personally would like to take it further to study few more streets to improve my theoretical framework which I developed after the pilot case study. The framework which is developed in this thesis is very useful to study all kind of streets however certain parameters are specific to the nature of the street.

Documenting such kind of streets are very important because the way we are advancing towards other cultural developments, somewhere we are losing the Indianess of our streets.

So documentation at this point of time probably will give us enough to reflect back when we have already lost them. People can use the information however they wish; as models, as guides, as points of departure for new designs, or to find out just how it was.

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References

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Whyte, W. H. (1980). The social life of small urban spaces. Project for Public Spaces.

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Papers - Isaacs, B. (2014). 11 The tastiest food is in the small streets. Street Food: Culture, economy, health and governance, 195.

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- Steel, C. (2013). Hungry city: How food shapes our lives. Random House.

- Purcell, M., & Tyman, S. K. (2018). Cultivating food as a right to the city. In Urban Gardening as Politics (pp. 62-81). Routledge.

- Franck, K. A. (2005). The city as dining room, market and farm. Architectural Design, 75(3), 5-10.

- Nandy, A. (2004). The changing popular culture of Indian food: Preliminary notes.

South Asia Research, 24(1), 9-19.

- Galt, R. E., Gray, L. C., & Hurley, P. (2014). Subversive and interstitial food spaces: transforming selves, societies, and society–environment relations through urban agriculture and foraging.

- Newman, L. L., & Burnett, K. (2013). Street food and vibrant urban spaces: lessons from Portland, Oregon. Local environment, 18(2), 233-248.

- Morgan, K. (2009). Feeding the city: the challenge of urban food planning.

- Horwitz, J., & Singley, P. (Eds.). (2004). Eating architecture. MIT Press.

- Fisker, A. M., & Olsen, T. D. (2013). Food, architecture and experience design. NA, 20(1).

- Jacobs, A. B. (1993). Great streets.

- Ar. Amrita Shukla and Prof. Neerja Desai Navratra Streets as Public Spaces: A Case Study of Manek Chowk. International Journal of Civil Engineering and Technology, 8(5), 2017, pp. 1367–1376.

- Sharma, S. (2012). Gastronomic Tourism in Old Delhi. Context, 9(2), 53.

- Edensor, T. (1998). The culture of the Indian street. Images of the street: planning, identity and control in public space, 205-221.

Links - 11 Famous Street Foods From Top Indian Cities. (n.d.). Retrieved February 18, 2019, from http://www.walkthroughindia.com/cuisines/11-famous-street-foodsfrom-top-indian-cities/

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- 30 Gujarati dishes that you must try when you visit Gujarat. (n.d.). Retrieved February 18, 2019, from http://www.reshareit.com/30-delicious-gujarati-dishesmust-get-eat-list-right-away/ - 84601047.pdf. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/84601047.pdf - Ahmedabad’s Manek Chowk :Market by Day, Crowded Eatery at Night. . | TalesAlongTheWay. (n.d.). Retrieved February 18, 2019, from https://talesalongtheway.com/2013/05/20/ahmedabads-manek-chowk-market-byday-crowded-eatery-at-night/ - Chappan Dukan (56 Shops) - IndoreRocks!!! (n.d.). Retrieved February 18, 2019, from http://www.indorerocks.com/attractions/attraction/Chappan_Dukan_56_Shops/20 057 - churchgate khau galli - Google Search. (n.d.). Retrieved February 18, 2019, from https://www.google.co.in/search?safe=active&ei=hORsXMLnApf89QPKjrWQCg &q=churchgate+khau+galli&oq=churchgate+khau+galli&gs_l=psyab.1.0.0j0i8i30l6j0i30.30876.32050..33639...0.0..2.306.1972.0j8j1j1......0....1..gws -wiz.......0i7i30j0i7i10i30j0i8i7i30.SRf3EIfBmLM - Cuisines of Gujarat-Traditional Gujarati Food & Recipes. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://www.tourmyindia.com/states/gujarat/cuisines.html - Culture of Gujarat. (2019). In Wikipedia. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Culture_of_Gujarat&oldid=891517424 - Food Secrets: These 10 Khau Gallis Are the Best Street Food Destinations in Mumbai. (2016, September 17). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from The Better India website: https://www.thebetterindia.com/68542/khau-gallis-street-foodmumbai/ - From Dabeli To Khandvi: Gujarat Is A Street Food Paradise | HuffPost India. (n.d.).

Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://www.huffingtonpost.in/ayandralidutta/from-dabeli-to-khandvi-gujarat-is-a-street-food-paradise_a_22108603/ - Ghatkopar khau Galli: 7 things you must Try here at Ghatkopar khau Galli. (n.d.).

Retrieved February 19, 2019, from http://www.mumbaimylove.com/ghatkoparkhau-galli/ - Gujarat Street Food : | TarlaDalal.com. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://www.tarladalal.com/article-gujarat-street-food-257 - Gujarati cuisine - Wikipedia. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gujarati_cuisine - History of Indian Street Food. (2015, September 30). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from How To Cook Great Food Network website: https://howtocookgreatfood.com/history-of-indian-street-food/ - India’s Culinary Heritage: Gujarati Cuisine. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://www.outlookindia.com/outlooktraveller/ website: https://www.outlookindia.com/outlooktraveller/explore/story/65510/indiasculinary-heritage-gujarati-cuisine - India’s Culinary Heritage: Gujarati Cuisine - Outlook Traveller. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://www.outlookindia.com/outlooktraveller/explore/story/65510/indiasculinary-heritage-gujarati-cuisine - Khau Galli Festival, A Street Food Festival in India- part1 – Indian and Indian Fusion Cooking in America. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from

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https://indfused.com/2014/12/24/khau-galli-festival-a-street-food-festival-inindia-part1/ Mumbai, a city that never stops eating! - Lifestyle News. (n.d.). Retrieved February 19, 2019, from https://www.indiatoday.in/lifestyle/food/story/mumbai-a-city-thatnever-stops-eating-102921-2012-05-22 Mungekar and Mathews - Ahmedabad Urban Development Authority (AUDA).pdf. (n.d.).

Retrieved from https://wricitieshub.org/sites/default/files/ReImagining%20Manek%20Chowk%20Final.pdf Mungekar, N., & Mathews, R. (n.d.). Ahmedabad Urban Development Authority (AUDA). 42.

Regions of Gujarat.

(2019).

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Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Regions_of_Gujarat&oldid=88181782 7 Street food.

(2019).

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Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Street_food&oldid=894705955 Street Food In This City Declared Safest By Regulator. (n.d.). Retrieved May 8, 2019, from https://www.ndtv.com/food/clean-street-food-hub-street-food-in-thiscity-has-been-dubbed-safest-by-fssai-1914872 Street food: the new trends shaping foodie culture | Analysis & Features | The Grocer. (n.d.).

Retrieved February 20, 2019, from https://www.thegrocer.co.uk/reports/digital-features/street-food-the-new-trendsshaping-foodie-culture/571368.article The great Indian street food culture. (2017, June 28). Retrieved February 20, 2019, from GoUNESCO - Make Heritage Fun! website: https://www.gounesco.com/thegreat-indian-street-food-culture/ Top five street-food tours in India - The Economic Times. (n.d.). Retrieved February 20, 2019, from https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/magazines/travel/top-five-street-food-toursin-india/articleshow/49829338.cms Traditional Gujarati Food & Cuisine. (n.d.). Retrieved February 20, 2019, from https://www.culturalindia.net/indian-food/gujrati.html

Videos - Netflix. (n.d.).

Retrieved May 8, 2019, from https://www.netflix.com/watch/80988021?trackId=13752289&tctx=0%2C2%2C4 cbe8678-10cf-442d-95dd-60e6b6434f36-58085316%2C%2C

Theses – – – – –

Bisa, S. (2017). Urban Food Tales: eating spaces & traditional food, Kerela.

Unpublished Master’s in Interior Designing Thesis. CEPT University, Ahmedabad Patel, A. (2017). Infrastructure facilities for food joints in India. Unpublished Master’s of Urban Planning Thesis, CEPT University, Ahmedabad Shah, K. (2019). In between realm: a manifestation of lived experience.

Unpublished Master’s of Architecture Thesis. CEPT University, Ahmedabad Deshmukh, A. (2013). Street as a public place: a social perspective. Master’s of Urban Planning Thesis, CEPT University, Ahmedabad Parikh, S. (1998). Informal food joints: a study on Ahmedabad. Unpublished Mini Project. CEPT University, Ahmedabad

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–

– – –

Joshi, n. (2010). Permanently temporary understanding spatial stimuli as spontaneous behaviour attuning to alchemy of space and time: an exploration of urban food courts at Manek Chowk and Rander. Unpublished Undergraduate Interior Designing Thesis. CEPT University, Ahmedabad Vyas, B. (2016). Learning from emergent public places of Ahmedabad : how people make places. Unpublished Master’s of Architecture Thesis. CEPT University, Ahmedabad Pandya, H. (2012). Everyday Public Realm: to interpret the gender relations of a place case study : manek chowk, Ahmedabad. Unpublished Master’s of Urban Planning Thesis, CEPT University, Ahmedabad Desai, M. (2012). Streets: An identity of a city (Ahmedabad). Unpublished Undergraduate Architecture Thesis. CEPT University, Ahmedabad

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Annexure

Annex 4.1.

1. Interview with the owner of Dev Chinese Stall 7th March 2019, Anand Q. What is your name?

A. Punit.

Q. Where are you from?

A. I am from proper Anand.

Q. How long are you here? Is this your stall?

A. I am the owner. I am running this Chinese stall form last 6 years. Before I was working at that Kathiyawadi Lassi stall, which is here from the starting of this street.

Q. How long has the street started?

A. 20 years.

Q. When the street started, all these stalls where there?

A. In the starting there where only 8-9 stalls, and then gradually the stalls increased.

Q. Did you construct the frame structure at the starting?

A. Yes, it is there from starting. Because in the summer it is very difficult to sit so it is necessary to have the shade.

Q. So did you all built it together?

A. Yes, compulsory everyone had to build their own.

Q. Today many restaurants are opening, so don’t you feel you should start your own?

A. Actually the business is going good here, so right now I haven’t thought of it. But let’s see what happens in the future.

Q. What are your timing?

A. Timings are from morning 10 to 11 at night.

Q. What is the wastage system here?

A. Actually the wastage from vegetable like the leaves of cauliflower and onions and others are given to the cowboy who comes in the evening to collect it. The other waste is thrown in the Nagar-Palika dustbin by us at night while going home.

Q. Which are the main rush hours?

A. Most of the crowd is found from 7 to 10 at night.

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Q. Do people mostly come with families or friends?

A. No no, there is nothing specific like that. Families and friends circle both come here.

Q. Do you have any particular regular costumers?

A. Yes Q. So do they bring their guests here?

A. Yes. They do bring them. And some of them also call before coming.

Q. Is there heavy rush every day? Does the tables get full every day?

A. On weekends and other festival days, the tables are always full.

Q. Do you put extra tables outside when there is lot of rush?

A. No Q. Do you have personal tables?

A. Yes, like this 6 tables are mine. But if the neighboring stall has more rush than me than I let his customers use my table. We keep on helping each other according to rush.

Q. Do you think there is any effect of food courts and online delivery system on your business?

A. There is a lot of effect, especially because of Zomato. And now even I have registered myself in it and my account will start from 2 days.

Q. Why did you register yourself in Zomato?

A. Because the people prefer ordering food online now rather than coming physically and because of this the rush has decreased here. This last month has gone in debt so I thought of registering myself.

Q. Anand is small city comparatively, so what do you think is the importance of this place in the city?

A. The importance of this place is because of its location. This place is near to Vidyanagar, Anand even Borsad Chaukadi and Town Hall, so this area is in the center and that is its benefit. It attracts people from everywhere. If I stand with this stall on any road, I don’t think I earn that well which I am earning here.

2. Interview with the visitor Shivani Barot 7th March 2019, Anand Q. What is your name?

A. Shivani Barot.

Q. Where are you from?

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A. I am from Anand only.

Q. How long are you coming here?

A. From a long time. I guess at least from 10 years.

Q. Did you come with your family before?

A. Yes. Q. Do you bring your guests here?

A. No. We mainly take them to other places. We come here at night for snacks like Chaat and Bhel while just rooming around the city.

Q. Do you come here for any specific food item?

A. Yes for Bhel and Pani Puri.

Q. Do you feel more comfortable here or in restaurants?

A. Restaurants Q. Before when there were less restaurants, people use to come here only so didn’t you feel the problem of comfort that time?

A. No before it was okay. But once when u start going to the restaurants, then at such places you feel less comfortable.

Q. Do you think improving this place can attract more crowd? Like the roads and the cleanliness?

A. I don’t think they can improve anything here because it is on a private land.

Q. Yes, I know, still if they get permissions and improve it?

A. Yes, they should and I think it can attract more crowd.

Q. Anand is a small city and also have fewer public spaces comparatively so do you think this is the reason that such places receive this much of crowd?

A. This place is in the middle of Anand and Vidyanagar that’s why it attracts most of the crowd.

Q. Before when there were less restaurants, people use to come here only so didn’t you feel the problem of comfort that time?

A. No before it was okay. But once when u start going to the restaurants, then at such places you feel less comfortable.

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Annex 5.1.

1. Interview with the owner of Banarasi Chinese and Punjabi Center 7th April 2019, Jamnagar Q. What is your name?

A. Santosh is my name Q. Where are you from?

A. I am from Jamnagar.

Q. How long are you here? Is this your stall?

A. Yes. Approximately from 8 years.

Q. How old is this street?

A. Madame, this is place is here from king’s time.

Q. No I mean when did the street started functioning as Khau Galli?

A. 20-25 years Madame.

Q. Due to which reason you started your business here?

A. Madame I have my restaurant here from many years so I also started a food stall outside it. Before there was a Jayshree Cinema here, and because of that I had bought this place for my restaurant.

Q. Do you pay anything to the government for standing here?

A. No Madame.

Q. What are your timings?

A. I open my restaurant from 6 in the evening.

Q. What is the wastage system here?

A. Do you see the government dustbin in front. We throw out waste in that only every night and the government cleans it in the morning.

Q. Which are the main rush hours?

A. Most of the crowd is found from 7 to 10 at night.

Q. Do people mostly come with families or friends?

A. No everyone comes here.

Q. Do you have any particular regular costumers?

A. Yes Q. So do they bring their guests here?

A. Not really, but some people do.

Q. Is there heavy rush every day? Does the tables get full every day?

A. Usually it does, but on weekends we have the highest rush.

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Q. Do you put extra tables outside when there is lot of rush?

A. No Q. Do you have personal tables?

A. Yes but we also share them when needed.

Q. Do you think because of Zomato there is a decrease in your business?

A. No Madame I think that is a good thing.

Q. Have you registered yourself in Zomato?

A. Yes Madame.

Q. Is there a decrease in costumers because of that?

A. No nothing like that.

Q. So you think there is no difference in your costumers?

A. No the people who were regular are still coming. New people don’t come. Because of Zomato, the people who stay away can easily eat our food and that is beneficial for your business also. So I think Zomato is a good thing.

2. Interview with the visitor Purav Mistry 7th April 2019, Jamnagar Q. What is your name?

A. Purav Mistry.

Q. Where are you from?

A. I live in Jamnagar.

Q. How often do you come here? How long?

A. Before we use to come frequently but now, we come less. Almost twice a month maybe.

Q. With whom do you come?

A. Mostly with my wife now. 9 Q. What about before?

A. Before we all friends use to come here, but now we don’t like that much.

Q. Do you bring your guests here?

A. No. Q. Do you come here for any specific food item?

A. Yes for the Pav Bhaji. My wife likes it so whenever she is bored of cooking at home, we come here for a change Q. Do you feel more comfortable here or in restaurants?

A. Restaurants.

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Q. Before when there were less restaurants, people use to come here only so didn’t you feel the problem of comfort that time?

A. Before the scenario was different. This place use to be clean before when we were young. And even didn’t have that much of money to go to restaurants and eat. There were no lot of options of restaurants before. But now everything has changed. We have more options to choose from so we come less here.

Q. Do you think improving this place can attract more crowd? Like the roads and the cleanliness?

A. Off course. This place use to be a very prominent place before. This old building behind is very attractive and I think if this place is improved people can enjoy food here.

Q. Jamnagar is a small city and also have fewer public spaces comparatively so do you think this is the reason that such places receive this much of crowd?

A. This place is in the old city, and this place has crowd from the starting years so I think that’s why people still come here.

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About the Author

Rutvi Gajjar is a carefree and adventurous person who loves roaming around the city and experience new things. Thus urban streets have always been her field of interest and How Streets play an important role in the increasing number of people in our cities move about, interact, conduct business, etc Many of our streets are losing their identity, experiencing the case of her home city Ahmedabad due to which she is allured towards the topic of food streets. All streets have different stories of their endurance among which she tried to capture the little stories of food streets through this work. Exploring the food streets was one good opportunity for Rutvi where she fulfilled her desire of eating delicious snacks everyday with the excuse of field work.

“Street food is what brings us together. Its where we find a common place. It not only takes us back in history, but it is also a way of carrying forward traditions. All the people who here over years brought their food with them. We not only adopted it. We adapted it to be our own. Now, it’s our time to celebrate it.”

– Rana Safvi (Cultural Historian)

“It is far easier, simpler to create spaces that work for people than those that do not — and a tremendous difference it can make to the life of a city.”

– William H. Whyte

“There is a magic on great streets, and presumably in their making. It is more than putting all of the required qualities on a street, and it is more than having few or many of the physical, desirable things that contribute to them. Sorcery and charm, imagination and inspiration are involved, and many be the most crucial ingredients. But not without social purpose.”

– Allan Jacobs