Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine issue 12

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DIRECTOR'S

NOTE ຂໍຕອ ້ ນຮັບເຂົາ້ ສູສ ່ ະບັບສຸດທ້າຍ ປະຈຳປີ 2013 ຂອງພວກເຮົາ! Welcome to our final issue of 2013! Not only does this edition of Sabaidee Magazine bring close to an exceptional year for us, but it also marks the 2nd anniversary of our publication. And what a couple of years it has been. These milestones are important as they offer a time to reflect on work done over the past 24 months, while they also challenge us to become even better. Our cover stories have been the stand out aspect of the magazine to me, and I hope they have to the reading public as well. We’ve gone to northern Laos and explored Phongsali, one of the most remote provinces in the country. We’ve traced Laos’ proud coffee heritage, ventured the length of the Mekong, profiled the rise of golf here, and travelled back to the colonial era. However, to improve even further, we’ve decided to shake things up a little. Sabaidee Magazine now features a listings section to accompany all the great travel and lifestyle content that lies within. We now have some of the finest hotels, restaurants, shops, sights, activities and wellness centres detailed inside to make this not just an enjoyable read, but also a guide to Laos. Of course, we always love to hear your feedback, so if you have any comments or questions about the new style, or feel something should be included, please email Ian, our editor, at editor@sabaidee-magazine.com. Finally, we would like to take this opportunity to offer our deepest condolences to the families and friends of the victims of Lao Airlines Flight QV301, which crashed near Pakse in October. This was an extremely tragic event for a very close community and nation. Our thoughts are with you. Take care, Phanhlakhone Syboonheung The Director

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ວາລະສານສະບາຍດີ ສ ະບັ ບ ນີ້ ບໍ່ ພ ຽງແຕ່ ນ ຳເອົ າ ການປິ ດ ສາກມາສູ່ ປີ ທ່ີ ພິ ເ ສດອີ ກ ປີ ໜ່ຶ ງ ສຳລັ ບ ພວກເຮົ າ ແຕ່ ມັ ນ ຍັ ງ ເປັ ນ ການສະເຫຼີ ມ ສະຫຼ ອ ງ ການທີ່ວາລະສານຂອງ ພວກເຮົາມີອາຍຸຄົບຮອບ 2 ປີ ແລະ ເບິ່ງຄືວ່າສອງປີ ໄດ້ຜາ່ ນໄປໄວເອົາແທ້. ເຫດການທີ່ ສ ຳຄັ ນ ເຫຼ່ົ າ ນີ້ ແ ມ່ ນ ມີ ຄ ວາມໝາຍສຳຄັ ນ ຫຼ າ ຍ​ ເຊິ່ ງ ​ໃ ຫ້ ​ເ ວລາ ທີ່ພ ວກເຮົ າ ໄດ້ ທົບ ທວນຄື ນ ວຽກ ງານທີ່ໄ ດ້ ເ ຮັ ດ ໃນ​ໄ ລຍະ​ເ ວລາ​ຕ ະຫຼ ອ ດ 24 ເດືອນ ຜ່ານມາ ຂະນະດຽວກັນກໍເປັນສິງ່ ທ້າທາຍ ສຳລັບພວກເຮົາໃນການ ກ້ າ ວສູ່ ຄ ຳວ່ າ ດີ ກ ວ່ າ . ສຳລັ ບ ຂ້ າ ພະເຈົ້ າ ແລ້ ວ , ​ເ ລື່ ອ ງ​ລ າວ​ໃ ນວາລະສານ ສະບັບນີ້​ແມ່ນ​ມີ​ຄວາມ​​ໂດນ​ເດັ່ນ ​ແລະ ຂ້າພະ​ເຈົ້າຫວັງ​ວ່າ ບັນດາ​ທ່ານ​ກ່ໍຄົງ​ ຮູ້ສຶກ​​ແບບ​ດຽວ​ກັນ. ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ເດີນທາງຂຶ້ນພາກເໜືອ ຂອງ ປະເທດລາວ ແລະ ສຳຫຼ ວ ດແຂວງຜົ້ ງ ສາລີ , ໜຶ່ ງ ໃນແຂວງທີ່ ຢູ່ ຫ່ າ ງໄກສອກຫຼີ ກ ທີ່ ສຸ ດ ຂອງປະເທດ. ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ແກະຮອຍ ມໍລະດົກກາເຟທີ່ໜ້າພູມໃຈຂອງລາວ ເຮົາ, ພະຈົນໄພກັບຄວາມຍາວຂອງແມ່ນຳ ້ ຂອງ, ອະທິບາຍຄ່ານິຍມ ົ ທີເ່ ພີມ ່ ຂຶນ ້ ຂອງກິລາກ໋ອບ ໃນ ສປປ ລາວ ແລະ ເດີນທາງຄືນສູຍ ່ ກ ຸ ອານານິຄມ ົ . ເຖິງຢ່າງໃດກໍຕາມ ເພືອ ່ ​ໃຫ້​ມ​ກ ີ ານພັດທະນາດີຂນ ້ຶ , ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ຕດ ັ ສິນໃຈປ່ຽນ ແປງບາງຢ່າງ. ວາລະສານສະບາຍດີ ເວລານີ້ ມີການນຳສະເໜີພາກລາຍການ ສຳລັບເນື້ອຫາສາລະກ່ຽວກັບການ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວທີ່ຕ່ືນເຕັ້ນຂຶ້ນ ແລະ ພ້ອມ​ກັບ ວິ ຖີ ​ກ ານດຳເນີ ນ ຊີ ວິ ດ ຂອງ​ປ ະຊາຊົ ນ ​ບັ ນ ດາ​ເ ຜົ່ າ ​. ເວລານີ້ ພ ວກ ເຮົ າ ມີ ໂຮງແຮມ, ພັດຕະຄານ, ຫ້າງຮ້ານ, ສະຖານທີທ ່ ໜ ່ີ າ້ ທ່ຽວຊົມ, ກິດຈະກຳຕ່າງໆ ແ ລ ະ ສູ ນ ອ ອ ກ ກ ຳ ລັ ງ ກ າ ຍ ທີ່ ດີ ທີ່ ສຸ ດ ທີ່ ມີ ​ລ າ ຍ ລ ະ ອ ຽ ດ ຢູ່ ດ້ າ ນ ໃ ນ ເພື່ອເຮັດໃຫ້ວາລະສານສະບັບນີ້ ບໍ່ພຽງແຕ່ ເປັນວາລະສານທີ່ເປັນຕາອ່ານ ແຕ່ຍງັ ເປັນ ຄູມ ່ ແ ື ນະນຳການເດີນທາງເຂົາ້ ທ່ຽວປະເທດລາວທີ​ດ ່ ​ທ ີ ​ສ ່ີ ດ ຸ . ແນ່ນອນ ຍາມໃດພວກເຮົາກໍມີຄວາມຍິນດີທ່ີຈະຟັງຄຳຕຳນິຕິຊົມຈາກບັນດາ ທ່ານ, ສະນັນ ້ ຖ້າທ່ານມີຄຳ ຄິດເຫັນ ຫຼື ຄຳຖາມອັນໃດກ່ຽວກັບການອອກແບບ ໃໝ່ນ້ີ ຫຼື ຮູສ ້ ກ ຶ ວ່າຕ້ອງເພີມ ່ ອັນໃດອັນໜຶງ່ ເຂົາ້ ນຳ, ກະລຸນາສົງ່ ອີ-ເມວ ເຖິງ ອຽນ ທີເ່ ປັນບັນນາທິການຂອງພວກເຮົາທີ:່ editor@sabaidee-magazine.com. ທ້າຍສຸດ, ພວກເຮົາຂໍຖືໂອກາດນີ້ ສະແດງຄວາມເສົ້າສະລົດໃຈຢ່າງສຸດຊຶ້ງ ມາຍັງຄອບຄົວ ແລະ ມິດສະຫາຍຂອງຜູປ ້ ະສົບເຄາະຮ້າຍຂອງຖ້ຽວບິນ QV301 ຂອງສາຍການບິນລາວ ທີ່ເກີດອຸບັດຕິເຫດ ໃກ້ເມືອງປາກເຊ ໃນເດືອນຕຸລາ ສິ່ງດັ່ງກ່າວໄດ້ກາຍເປັນອຸບັດ​ຕິ​ໄພ​ທ່​ີເປັນຄວາມ​ທຸກ​ໂສກ ສຳລັບຍາດຕິພ່ນ ີ ້ ອງ ແລະ ປະຊາຊົນທົວ ່ ປະເທດ ເຮົາຄິດຮອດພວກທ່ານສະເໝີ. ພັນລະກອນ ສີບຸນເຮືອງ ຜູ້ອຳນວຍການ



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News, Events and Guide

14 Lao Event Calender 16 News/Sabaidee Club 18 Event Report: Luang Prabang Half-Marathon 38 Vientiane Map 39 Special Feature: Lao Airlines Flight Procedures

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Travel 20 51 65

Sabaidee Cover: The Wild South Feature: Sustainable Tourism in Luang Prabang Close to Home: Pattaya

Lifestyle 36 68

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Sabaidee Guest: Gabriel Kuperman Art Scene: Lacquer Paintings by Marie-Do Hyman-Boneu

WHO'S ຄະນະທີ່ປຶກສາ ພັດທະລະພົງ ຄົງວິຈິດ l ວິສິດ ເຊົາວະລິດຕານົນ l ມານະໄຊ ອິນແກ້ວ l ສົມໃຈ ພິມຜາສຸກ Consultants Pattarapong Kongvijit l Wisith Chawalitanon l Manachai Inkaew l Somjai Pimpasouk | ຜູ້ອຳນວຍການ ພັນລະຄອນ ສີບຸນເຮືອງ Director Phanhlakhone Syboonheung | ບັນນາທິການອຳນວຍການ ເກດ ພິດທະຢາກອນສິນ Editorial Director Gaid Kornsilapa | ບັນນາທິການບໍລິຫານ ຄຳສວນ ຈັນທະລາດ Editor in Chief Khamsouan Chanthalat | ບັນນາທິການ ພາສາອັງກິດ ອຽນ ເລຊີ່ English Editor Ian Lacey | ບັນນາທິການອອນລາຍ ຂະນິດຖາ ອັດຕະເມດ Online Editor Kanittha Attamate | ຜູ້ອຳນວຍການຝ່າຍຂາຍ ຊາຢາດາ ອະລິຍະພົນຈະເລີນ Sales & Marketing Director Chayada Ariyaphoncharoen | SENIOR SALES & MARKETING Khonesavanh Kounmany ຝ່າຍຂາຍແລະການຕະຫຼາດ ຄອນສະຫວັນ ຄຸນມະນີ | ປະສານງານການຕະຫຼາດ ບຸນລອດ ສິດທິພົງ Marketing Co-ordinator Bounlod Sittiphong | ທີມງານຂ່າວ ເທບພະວົງສອນ ບົວພາ | Reporter Thepphavongsone Bouapha | ຈັດໜ້າ ແລະ ອອກແບບ ນັດນະລີ ມາທອງ l ທະນະວັດ ຄົງແສນຄຳ l ທັນຍະລັດ ສະທອນລັກ l ອະພີດຊະຍາ ພຶກສະອາພອນ Layout Design Nutnaree Mathong l Thanawatt Khongseankhum l Thunyarat Satornlug l Aphitchaya Phrueksa-aphon | ຫ້ອງການວາລະສານສະບາຍດີ 256 ບ້ານ ໜອງບອນ ເມືອງໄຊເສດຖາ ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ສປປ ລາວ | Sabaidee Magazine Sales Office THM Lao Co., Ltd. 265 Baan Nongbone, Xayxetha, Vientiane Lao P.D.R | ໂທ / ແຟັກ: +856 21 454782 Tel / Fax: +856 21 454782 | Mobile: +856 20 5512 2440, +856 20 5884 8376, +66 83 018 4076 (Thai) | ອີເມລ ບັນນາທິການ Editor Email: editor@sabaidee-magazine.com | ອີເມລ ຝ່າຍຂາຍ Sales Email: chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com | www.sabaidee-magazine.com | ເຈົ້າຂອງ ແລະ ຜູ້ຈັດພິມ ທີ ເອັສ ເອັມ ລາວ Owner & Publisher THM Lao

HM

ONLINE EDITION Also available at:

For more information visit www.sabaidee-magazine.com or simply scan the QR code

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LAO

All material appearing in Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission to the copyright holder. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the view of the publisher of the magazine. Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs.



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Listings

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40 43 46 48 56 58 60 62

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Kate Antonas

Eat Drink Drive See/Do Shop Relax Health & Wellness Sleep

If you would like your business featured in our listings please contact Sales & Marketing at chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com or contact +856 21 454782 or +856 20 5512 2440,

C ontributors

Australian-born journalist turned art gallery manager and creative programmer Kate Antonas most recently split her time between her sunny hometown Perth and the vast northern ranges of Western Australia. Now living in Vientiane Kate has fallen for Laos’ exquisite traditional art, laid back lifestyle, street side noodles and beer with ice. Always on the lookout for the cool and interesting she is attempting to uncover the best local eats, drinks and hidden gems.

Michelle Luehman Michelle has spent the last 20 years living and working around the world, and most of that time has been spent around Asia. An avid observer of people and places, she has written extensively about life in Asia, both as a visitor and a resident. She has worked for lifestyle and travel magazines around the globe capturing the essence and flavour of life in each different locality.

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Ian Lacey Raised in Wexford, Ireland, Ian now lives in Vientiane. After falling into writing by accident, he likes to concentrate on pieces that reflect his two great interests in life – travel and conservation. And in Laos, there’s no better place to explore both separately or together. Ian recently completed a 15 month, 27,000km unsupported bicycle journey from Alaska to Argentina for charity, and since then has formed some alternative thoughts on the nature of travel. You can see blogs and photos on his website www.350South.org.



Laos In Numbers

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1,835

days of Pi Mai (Lao New Year) celebrations in April

kilometres : the length of the Mekong River in Laos

2,819

17

9,000

provinces

45

metres : Laos’ highest mountain, Phou Bia

kip : the average price of a large Beerlao

6,600,000

recognised ethnic groups

estimated population

600

ຕົວເລກທີ່ກ່ຽວຂ້ອງກັບປະເທດລາວ 3 : ມື້ ສະຫຼອງປີໃໝ່ລາວໃນເດືອນເມສາ 17 : ແຂວງ

45 : ຊົນເຜົ່າ

80 : ສ່ວນຮ້ອຍຂອງປະຊາກອນເຮັດກະສິກຳ�ພໍກຸ້ມກິນ 600 : ຈຳ�ນວນຊ້າງປ່າທີ່ຄາດຄະເນ

1,853 : ກິໂລແມັດ – ລວງຍາວຂອງແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງໃນລາວ

80

estimated wild elephants

percent of the population practicing subsistence agriculture

2,819 : ແມັດ – ພູເບ້ຍ ພູທີ່ສງູ ທີ່ສດຸ ໃນປະເທດລາວ

9,000 : ກີບ – ລາຄາສະເລ່ຍຂອງເບຍລາວແກ້ວໃຫຍ່ 6,600,000 : ຈຳ�ນວນປະຊາກອນໂດຍປະມານ

Lao History Lesson PREHISTORY

EARLY MODERN HISTORY

46,000 + years

10,000 + years

500 BC-500 AD

1349-1357

1560

1600’s

In 2009, an ancient skull at least 46,000 years old is discovered in the Annamite Mountains of northern Laos, making it the oldest modern human fossil found to date in South East Asia.

Stone tools and skulls unearthed in Huaphan and Luang Prabang province confirm greater human existence in the region.

The mysterious Plain of Jars landscape appears on the Xieng Khuang plateau, revealing the presence of a complex civilisation in what is now modern day Laos.

King Fa Ngum begins grouping townships (muang) along the Mekong River into a unified Lan Xang Kingdom. Its capital beco mes the ci ty o f Xiengdong Xiengthong, known today as Luang Prabang.

During the reign of King Settathirath, who constructed That Luang stupa, the capital is moved from Luang Prabang to Vientiane.

The Lan Xang Kingdom re a c h e s i t s ‘ G o l d e n Age’ and gains much attention from Europe. Reports written by Dutch merchants describe a land of magnificent palaces, temples and awe-inspiring religious ceremonies.

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Visitor Info THE ESSENTIALS Visitor Information

For the most up-to-date information on tourism activities, visit the National Tourism Authority on Lane Xang Avenue, half-way between the Presidential Palace and Patuxay on the right hand side. Visit the official website at www. tourismlaos.org.

Business Hours

Government offices are normally open from 8am until 5pm, Monday to Friday. Museums and attractions usually open at 8am until 4pm, with closing for lunch. Tourist restaurants, depending on breakfast and dinner offerings, are open from around 8am until 10pm. Most bars to close before 12am.

in Vientiane (Hatsady Rd, opposite Talat Sao) and Luang Prabang (Wisunarat Rd). A US$10 per day penalty is charged for overstaying.

TRANSPORT Air

The four international airports are located in Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Savannakhet and Pakse. Most inter national flights pass through B a n g k o k i f c o m i n g f ro m o u t s i d e Southeast Asia. Domestic airports are located in Houesiay, Luang Namtha, Udomxay and Xieng Khouang.

Bus

Many overland bus routes provide access to Laos from neighbouring countries. The tour agencies in major towns and

cities are the best for up-to-date information. Overnight VIP buses are air-conditioned and the most popular is Bangkok to/from Vientiane. Throughout Laos, expect ever-changing bus schedules so it’s best to enquire at local tour agencies or I-Spot in Vientiane (Manthatourath Rd).

Train

If you are heading to/from Bangkok, one option is the train. At Nong Khai, over the Friendship Bridge near Vientiane, it is possible to travel overnight to Bangkok. Utilising Thailand’s extensive rail system, you can also reach Ubon Ratchathani and connect via bus to Pakse.

HEALTH If you suffer any health complications or accidents in Laos, contact the following:

French Clinic

Corner of Khouvieng Rd and Simeuang Rd 021 214150

Australian Embassy Clinic Thadeua Rd KM4 021 353840

International Clinic (Mahosot Hospital) Fa Ngum Rd 021 214022

For more serious emergencies, contact the above for advice on travelling to Thailand for medical attention. A E K U d o n ( w w w. a e k u d o n . c o m ) and Bangkok Hospital Udon (www. bangkokhospitaludon.com) are the closest Thai hospitals to Vientiane.

Embassies/consulates

For a detailed list of the foreign embassies and consulates in Laos, visit www.embassy.goabroad.com/ embassies-in/laos.

Money

There are a large number of ATMs in Vientiane and Luang Prabang, and a smaller amount in other major cities. Normally, these dispense between 500,000-2 million kip (about US$63$US250) per transaction. Thai baht and US dollars are generally accepted in Vientiane, but keep some Lao kip on hand too.

Telephone

SIM cards for mobile phones can be bought on a variety of networks including Lao Telecom, ETL, Beeline and Unitel. +856 is the country code.

Visas

A 30-day visa-on-arrival is issued at nearly all international border points and the major airports. To acquire the visa, you need between US$20-45 (Lao kip and Thai baht usually accepted), one passport-sized photo of yourself, and the name of a hotel you’ll stay at in Laos. The tourist visa can be extended an additional 30 days at a cost of US$2 per day, and sorted at the immigration office

Lao History Lesson EARLY MODERN HISTORY

MODERN HISTORY

1713

1893

1953

1963-1974

1975

1986

1997

The Lan Xang Kingdom, under challenge from feudal lords, splits into three territories – Luang Prabang, Vientiane and Champassak. With these rifts, the Siamese (Thai) attack and take control of l a rg e p o r t i o n s o f these lands by the end of the century.

With French dominance on the rise in Indochina, Thailand eventually releases its grip on Laos and cedes it to France.

The Japanese occupy Indochina during World War II and a resistance movement against the French begins to form. Laos is eventually offered its independence.

The US starts bombing the Ho Chi Minh trail in eastern Laos to stop the flow of communist fighters between North and South Vietnam. During this period, over 270 million cluster submunitions are dropped on Laos, making it the most heavily bombed country in the world per capita.

The Pathet Lao, who supported communist North Vietnam and hid in the Vieng Xai caves of Huaphan province during the Vietnam War, overthrow the royalist government and the Lao People’s Democratic Republic is formed.

The government moves away from a centralised economy to a market-driven system. Investment restrictions are eased and the tourism industry takes off.

Laos becomes a member of the Association of South East Asian Nations (ASEAN). This g ro u p i n g a i m s t o accelerate economic growth, enhance social progress and act as a forum to discuss differences peacefully.

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SPECIAL FEATURE

Lao Handicraft Festival

28th October – 3rd November, 2013 ITECC, Vientiane

Over 370 handicraft producers will come out in force at Lao-ITECC to showcase their silk, cotton, rattan, wood, silver and pottery products. Traditional foods will also be on offer, while craft demonstrations, design competitions and fashion shows will intrigue visitors.

Hmong New Year

Beginning of December, 2013 V i e n t i a n e , O u d o m x a y, X i e n g Khouang, Luang Prabang These celebrations feature colourful displays of traditional costumes made from silk and which are richly decorated with silver jewellery. Hmong music and dance occupies centre stage along with a Makkhon (cottonball) throwing ceremony, ox fighting, spinning top races and crossbow demonstrations.

Luang Prabang Film Festival

7th-11th December, 2013 Luang Prabang

The Luang Prabang Film Festival this year includes five days of national and international film screenings at various locations throughout the town. The festival will also feature two World Premieres, Big Heart and I Love Savanh, both Lao films. Visit www.luangprabangfilmfestival.com for more information.

Women’s International Group (WIG) Bazaar

23rd November, 2013 Faculty of Engineering, Sokpaluang Rd

The Bazaar brings thousands of people from all walks of life to eat, buy, sell and mingle within a fun atmosphere. Local eateries, businesses big and small, international organisations and embassies will be present. Money earned will go to education and medical welfare projects in Laos.

‘Ephémeres’ – Lacquer Painting Exhibition

2nd-24th November, 2013 iCat Gallery, Settthathirath Rd, Ban Simeuang This exhibition features lacquer paintings by French artist Marie-Do Hyman-Boneu. The paintings were produced from when the artist arrived in Vientiane in 2010 and represent a vision of the city’s transformation. The exhibit also focuses on the fragile beauty of nature as a metaphor.

Boun Pha That Luang (That Luang Festival)

11th-17th November, 2013 Pha That Luang, Vientane

This week-long religious festival is held around That Luang stupa. It is celebrated on the full moon and gathers thousands of people from around Laos to hear prayers recited by hundreds of monks. The festivities include music, food stalls, drinking and dancing with the festival coming to a close with a massive fireworks display.

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Lao National Day

2nd December, 2013 Nationwide

This day commemorates the 1975 victory against the monarchy in true Lao fashion with speeches and parades in provincial towns around the country. Some poorer communities hold their traditional Awk Phansa (End of Buddhist Lent) activities on this day to save expense.


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PR NEWS

Welcome to

LORD PUTTNAM MEETS LAO GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS

Club

During his official visit to Laos, Lord David Puttnam, the UK Prime Minister’s Trade Envoy for Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam, met senior government officials to discuss the UK’s role in promoting industries in Laos. They also discussed a range of topics such as trade and investment, education, and human rights. David Puttnam is a renowned UK film producer who spent three decades producing many award-winning films, some of which scooped 10 Oscars, 25 British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA) awards, and the Palme D’Or at Cannes. He now focuses on public policy, concentrating on education, the environment and creative and communication industries.

Welcome to Sabaidee Club! This is a space for readers of the magazine to take part in our bi-monthly competition and have the chance to win a variety of fantastic prizes.

TOYOTA VIOS UNVEILED IN STYLE Toyota Laos has put to market its brand new Vios sedan. At the National Culture Hall last October, a music and light extravaganza saw the Vios being driven out onto the stage through split screen TVs as the waiting public caught its first glance at the machine. The Vios is a dynamic and powerful four-door car with charismatic sleek design lines. Inside, its form is met by contemporary fittings and exudes superior class comfort. Check out the new Vios at the Toyota Centre on 23 Singha Road to experience the drive yourself.

BIGGEST SHOPPING MARKET IN LAOS SET FOR VIENTIANE Lao Public World Company has announced its plans to build the biggest market in Laos at Lao-ITECC, with the project set for completion by November 2014. The building will comprise a supermarket, duty free shop, sports stores, an entertainment complex, convention halls, financial services and restaurants. The shopping centres will be nine storeys high and be built on a 106,000 square metre site. There will also be a car park with a capacity of 3,000 cars. The centre, called ITECC Market, will be located in front of the existing Lao-ITECC on T4 Road.

In Issue 11 to mark the occasion of the inaugural Luang Prabang Half-Marathon, we asked you to tell us your favourite ways to keep the body and mind healthy in Laos. The winner was Joel Kidson who told us that early Saturday morning bike rides in the capital when monks hustle in and out of their temples were a favourite. Well done Joel and a 250,000 kip dinner voucher for Xayoh Grill House in Vientiane is yours. In this issue, we’re after your favourite places close to Laos to visit. We have a regular ‘Close to Home’ section that has profiled cities like Hanoi, Vietnam and Pattaya, Thailand. So, tell us your ideal holidaying destination and why? Post it to our Facebook page or email editor@sabaidee-magazine.com to be in with a chance.

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EVENT REPORT

Run, Walk or Cheer La Procession a great success by Michelle Luehman

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800 runners made their way on a cool Saturday mor ning to Luang Prabang’s museum and assembled in the shadow of the revered Phosey (Phosi) Hill. The atmosphere was alive with expectation as locals, expatriates and visitors mingled, awaiting the start of the La Procession, Luang Prabang’s first half marathon, which took place on October 5th. With a heartfelt welcome from the Governor of Luang Prabang, a resounding cheer came from all present and a last minute reminder to respect the monks and motorbikes. A blast form the siren sent the runners off down the main road to enjoy a scenic run (or walk) through some of Luang Prabang’s most picturesque streets. The circuit was flanked by lots of quintessential Lao support. Cheering crowds, water stops, cheer squads with upbeat music and speakers blaring. Most of the runners declined the free coffee and cake but a number of the keen walkers could be seen enjoying the offered goodies. A refreshing water spray, just after the first big incline, was a welcome addition to the track. Hotel staff in traditional dress worked as the world’s most colourful race concierge. School children and teachers cheered and waved the national flag. Prized vintage cars and motorised tricycles acted as circuit signposts. Local motorcycle police, with red lights flashing, escorted the runners and with good humour managed the somewhat confused local crowd on their way to work. The runners all finished in good time, most in reasonable shape and all in high spirits with the winners being a mix of local and international runners. This was a charity run with the proceeds raised going to Friends International and their highly respected charity work will be expanded in Luang Prabang. Expatriates had to raise a minimum of US$200 to run, but many raised thousands, so for a first time event it was a massive success on every scale. Congratulations to the many people who put enormous effort into the run, both on and off the track. For more details visit: www.luangprabanghalfmarathon.com or www.facebook.com/LuangPrabangHalfMarathon

ການ​ແລ່ນ​ແບບ​ ເຄິ່ງມາລາ​ທອນ​ ຢູຫລ ່​ ວງ​ພະ​ບາງ​ ເປັນ​ຜົນສຳ�​ເລັດ​ ອັນຍິ່ງໃຫຍ່ ໃນທ່າມກາງ​ອາ​ກາດທີ່ຫນາວ​ເຢັນ​ໃນ​ຕອນ​ເຊົ້າ​ຂອງ​ວັນ​ເສົາ, ນັກ​ແລ່ນ 800 ຄົນ ໄດ້​ໄປ​ລວມ​ໂຕ​ກັນ ​ຢູ່ທີ່​ຫພ ໍ ພ ິ ທ ິ ະພັນ​ຫລວງ​ ພະ​ບາງ ແລະ ເຕົ້າ​ໂຮມ​ກັນຢູ່​ໃຕ້​ຮົ່ມ​ເງົາ​ຂອງ​ພູ​ໂພສີ. ​ເມື່ອ​ ໄດ້ຍິນສຽງສັນຍານດັງ​ຂຶ້ນ ນັກ​ແລ່ນ​ທັງຫລາຍ ​ໄດ້​ເລີ່​ມຕົ້ນ​ ແລ່ນ​ໄປ​ຕາມ​ຖະຫນົນ​ໃຫຍ່ ​ເຊິ່ງ​ເປັນ​ການ​ແລ່ນ (ຫລື ຍ່າງ)​ ແບບຊື່ນຊົມກັບ​ພາບ​ທວ ິ ​ທັດ​ທີ່​ສວຍ​ງາມ​ຕາມ​ຖະຫນົນ​ທີ່​ຖ​ວ ື ່າ​ ເປັນຖ ​ ະຫນົນທ ​ ສ ີ່​ ວຍ​ງາມ​ທສ ີ່​ ຸດຂ ​ ອງ​ຫລວງ​ພະ​ບາງ. ຢູ່​ຕາມ​ຖະຫນົນ ​ເຕັມ​ໄປ​ດ້ວຍສຽງ​ເຊຍ​ຈາກ​ຝູງ​ຊົນ, ຈຸດ​ຢຸດ​ ເອົາ​ນ້ຳ�, ກອງ​ເຊຍ ທີ່​ເປີດ​ເພງ ​ແລະ ຮ້ອງສົ່ງ​ສຽງ​ເຊຍ​ໃຫ້​ ກຳ�ລັງ​ໃຈ ດັງ​ຟົດ​ສະ​ນັ່ນ. ນັກ​ແລ່ນ​ຫມົດ​ທຸກ​ຄົນ ສາມາດ​ໄປ​ ເຖິງ​ເສັ້ນ​ໄຊ​ດ້ວຍ​ເວລາທີຫນ້າ​ພໍ​ໃຈ, ມີ​ນ້ຳ�​ໃຈ​ນັກ​ກິລາສູງ ແລະ ​ເອົາ​ຈິງ​ເອົາ​ຈັງ. ການ​ແລ່ນ​ຄັ້ງ​ນີ້ ​ເປັນ​ການ​ແລ່ນເພື່ອ​ ການ​ກຸສົນ​ເຊິ່ງລາຍ​ໄດ້​ຈະ​ເອົາ​ເຂົ້າ​ໃນ​ກອງ​ທຶນ​ຂອງ​ອົງການ​ ເພື່ອນ​ມິດ (ຫລື Friends International) ແລະ ເປັນທ ​ ຄ ີ່​ າດ​ ຫວັງ​ໄວ້​ວ່າ ກິດຈະກຳ�​ການ​ກສ ຸ ົນ ຢູ່​ທີ່​ຫລວງ​ພະ​ບາງ ຈະ​ເພີ່ມ​ ຫລາຍ​ຂຶ້ນເ​ ລື້ອຍໆ​ໄປ.

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20

SABAIDEE COVER


The Wild South

Covering 44,000km² and almost 20% of Laos’ geographical area, the provinces of Attapeu, Champasak, Saravan and Sekong occupy one of the least visited corners of the country. Vast tracts of this land – rippled by mountains and crisscrossed by rivers – are inaccessible to the outsider. And for the parts that are, it takes a combination of time, patience and spirit to reach them. But glad you will be to do so. In this issue, we present the remote, wild and untamed southern frontier.

story Ian Lacey

ຊີວິດທ�ຳ​ມະ​ຊາດຢູພາກ​ໃຕ ດ້ວຍເນື້ອ​ທີ່​ທີ່ກວມ​ເອົາ​ເກືອບ 20% ຂອງ​ເນື້ອ​ທີ່​ທາງ​ພມ ູ ​ສາ​ດຂ​ອງລາວ, ​ແຂວງ​ສາລະ​ວັນ, ​ເຊ​ກອງ, ຈຳ�ປາ​ສັກ ​ແລະ ​ ອັດ​ຕະປື ​ເປັນ​ເຂດ​ທີ່​ມ​ຈຳ ີ �ນວນນັກ​ທ່ອງ​ທ່ຽວ​ໄປ​ທ່ຽວຊົມຫນ້ອຍ​ທີ່​ສດ ຸ ​ຂອງປະ​ເທດ. ດິນ​ແດນ​ສ່ວນ​ໃຫຍ່​ຂອງ​ ເຂດ​ນີ້ ​ແມ່ນ​ພ​ຜ ູ າ ​ແລະ ​ແມ່​ນ້ຳ�​ເກາະ​ກ່າຍ​ກັນ​ໄປມາ ​ເຊິ່ງຄົນ​ພາຍ​ນອກ ​ເຂົ້າ​ເຖິງ​ໄດ້ຍາກ. ການ​ເຂົ້າ​ເຖິງ​ເຂດ​ ດັ່ງກ່າວ​ນັ້ນ ຕ້ອງ​ໄດ້​ໃຊ້​ເວລາ, ຄວາມ​ອົດທົນ ​ແລະ ຄວາມ​ພະຍາຍາມ. ໃນວາລະສານສະບັບນີ້, ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ຂໍນຳ�ສະເຫນີເຂດຊາຍແດນພາກໃຕ້ ທີ່ຫ່າງໄກສອກຫລີກ, ​ເປັນ​ທຳ�​ມະ​ຊາດ ​ແລະ ຍັງ​ບໍ່​ທັນ​ຖກ ື ​ບກ ຸ ​ເບີກ.

21


Nam Tok Katamtok Sekong Province

Rushing forth off the Bolaven Plateau and cascading 100m down into deep pools, Nam Tok Katamtok is one of least known but most spectacular waterfalls in Laos. It is the Huay Katam River that emanates from the thick jungle behind, only to leave its sleepy enclave for this roaring juncture on its journey.

ນຳ�້ ຕົກຕາດກະ​ຕ�ຳ​ຕກ ົ ​ແຂວງ​ເຊ​ກອງ ນ້ຳ�ຕົກຕາດກະ​ ຕຳ�​ ຕົກ ເປັນອີກ​ ນ້ຳ�ຕົກຕາດ​ ແຫ່ງ​ ຫນຶ່ງທີ່​ ມີ​ ຄົນຮູ້​ຈັກ​ຫນ້ອຍ​ທີ່​ສຸດ ​ແຕ່​ວ່າ​ມັນ​ເປັນ​ ​ນ້ຳ�ຕົກຕາດທີ່​ສວຍ​ ງາມ ​ແລະ ຫນ້າທ່ຽວຊົມ​ທີ່​ສຸດ​ແຫ່ງ​ຫນຶ່ງໃນປະ​ເທດ ລາວ, ມັນ​ ເປັນ​ນ້ຳ�ຕົກຕາດ​ທີ່ ​ໄຫລ​ມາ​ຈາກ​ເຂດ​ທົ່ງພຽງບໍລ​ິ ເວນ ​ແລະ ຕົກລົງ​ດ້ວຍລະດັບຄວາມ​ສູງ 100 ​ແມັດ. ແມ່​ນ້ຳ�ສາຍດັ່ງກ່າວ​ ມີຊື່ວ່າຫ້ວຍ ກະຕຳ� ເຊິ່ງໄຫລມາແຕ່ປ່າເລິກຈາກ​ເຂດພູຜາ​ເຫວ.

Quick Fire Facts

The main artery to the south is Road 13 and Pakse is the biggest city on this. From there, a sealed road leads to Paksong and Saravan, while gravel roads connect to Attapeu. The Bolaven Plateau rises to over 1000m and is shared by Champasak, Sekong and Attapeu provinces. The Khone Phapheng Falls on the Mekong River in Champasak Province are the largest in Southeast Asia and is the primary reason why the Mekong is not fully navigable to China. There are 3 land border crossings in the south, one each to Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam. Weavers around Si Phan Don use foot looms rather than frame looms and are known for the best silk weaving in Laos incorporating intricate ikat designs that include Khmer-influenced motifs. 22


photo Brechje Marechal

23


24


Wat Phou

Champasak Province To think what activity must have been like here centuries ago. The temple complex of Wat Phou began life as Khmer religious site in the 5th century and eventually meandered through several periods of use and worship before Theravada Buddhism took hold. Sitting at the base of Phu Kao with structures sprawling up the hillside, it’s an archaeological masterpiece to behold.

ວັດ​ພູ ​ແຂວງ​ຈ�ຳປາ​ສກ ັ ສະຖາປັດຕະຍະກຳ�ອັນເກົ່າແ ​ ກ່ຂອງ​ວັດ​ພູ ​ແມ່ນເຂດອະລິຍະ​ທຳ�ທາງ​ ສາດສະຫນາ​ຂະ​ແມ ​ໃນ​ສັດຕະວັດ​ທີ່ 5 ​ແລະ ​ໄດ້​ຖກ ື ​ນຳ�​ໃຊ້​ເຂົ້າ​ໃນ​ການ​ ສັກກາລະ​ບູຊາ ເປັນ​ໄລຍະ​ເວລາ​ຫລາຍ​ປີ. ການ​ໄດ້​ນັ່ງ​ຢູ່​ທີ່ສະຖານ​ທີ່​ ບູຮານ​ນະ​ຄະດີວັດ​ພູ ​ເຊິ່ງຕັ້ງຢູ່​ເທິງພູ​ສູງ ​ແລ້ວ​ຫລຽວ​ເບິ່ງຊົມ​ທິວ​ທັດ​ ດ້ານ​ລຸ່ມ ຖືເປັນພາບທິວທັດທາງດ້ານໂບຮານນະຄະດີຊັ້ນເລີດອັນຫນຶ່ງ. 25


Ethnic Groups Saravan Province

Half of Saravan Province’s population is ethnically Lao but none are native to the area. The other groups are primarily Mon-Khmer and include the Ta-oy, Pako, Kado, Suay and Laven. The Katang are perhaps the most recognised and are famous for their intricate silk weavings which can be bought in Toumlan District.

ຊົນ​ເຜົາ່ ​ສວ ່ ນ​ນອ ້ ຍ ​ແຂວງ​ສາລະ​ວນ ັ ເຄິ່ງຫນຶ່ງ​ຂອງ​ປະຊາກອນ​ແຂວງ​ສາລະ​ວັນແມ່ນ​ຊົນ​ເຜົ່າສ່ວນນ້ອຍ​ ຂອງລາວແຕ່​​ບໍ່​ມີ​ຊາວພື້ນ​ເມືອງ​ຂອງ​ເຂດ​ດັ່ງກ່າວ​ນີ້. ກຸ່ມຊົນ​ເຜົ່າທີ່​ ໃຫຍ່ອກ ີ ກຸ່ມຫນຶ່ງແມ່ນ​ຊາວ​ມອນ-ຄະ​ແມ ​ແລະປະກອບ​ດ້ວຍ ເຜົ່າ​ຕະ​ໂອ້​ຍ, ປາກໍ, ກາໂດ, ສວຍແລະລາ​ເວັນ. ເຜົ່າ​ກະຕັງອາດ​ ເປັນ​ທີ່ຮູ້ຈັກແລະມີ​ຊື່​ສຽງຫລາຍ​ກວ່າ​ຫມູ່ເພາະການ​ຕໍ່າຜ້າ​ໄຫມ​ທີ່​ມີ​ ລວດລາຍສະຫລັບຊັບຊ້ອນ ແລະສວຍ​ງາມຂອງ​ພວກ​ເຂົາ.

Coffee Growers Champasak Province

On the cool and fertile Bolaven Plateau, Laos’ coffee producing tradition continues. This elevated region of the province has been used since the 1930s when the French planted the first coffee trees. Today, over 20,000 coffee farming families are spread throughout Champasak, Saravan and Attapeu provinces. The town of Paksong in Champasak is the best place to catch a glimpse of these farmers.

ຊາວ​ສວນ​ກາ​ເຟ ​ແຂວງ​ຈ�ຳປາ​ສກ ັ ຢູ່​ໃນ​ເຂດ​ທົ່ງພຽງບໍລະ​ເວນ​ທີ່​ຫນາວ​ເຢັນແລະອຸດົມສົມບູນ​ນັ້ນ, ປະ​ເພນີ​ການ​ປກ ູ ​ກາ​ເຟລາວຍັງ​ ດຳ�​ເນີນ​ຕໍ່​ໄປ.ຂົງເຂດທຳ�​ການ​ຜະລິດຂອງ​ແຂວງດັ່ງກ່າວນີໄດ້​ຖືກ​ນຳ�​ໃຊ້​​ເປັນ​ບ່ອນປູກຝັງນັບ​ ຕັ້ງ​ແຕ່​ປີ 1930 ເຊິ່ງ​ເປັນ​ໄລຍະ​ທີ່ຊາວຝຣັ່ງໄດ້​ນຳ�​ເອົາຕົ້ນ​ກາ​ເຟມາ​ປກ ູ ເປັນ​ຄັ້ງ​ທຳ�​ອດ ິ ​ຢູ່​ທີ່​ນີ້. ​ໃນ​ ປະຈຸ​ບັນ, ມີ​ຄອບຄົວ​ຊາວ​ສວນ​ກາ​ເຟຫລາຍ​ກວ່າ2000 ຄົວ​ເຮືອນທີ່ອາ​ໄສຢູ່ໃນແຂວງຈຳ�ປາ​ສັກ, ສາລະ​ວັນແລະອັດ​ຕະປື. 26


Nong Fa Lake Attapeu Province

Nong Fa Lake sits in the crater of an ancient volcano. Within the heart of Dong Amphan National Protected Area, Nong Fa is the watery jewel in its otherwise verdant jungle crown. The lake was used as a rest station by North Vietnamese soldiers travelling the Ho Chi Minh trail during the Vietnam War.

ຫນອງຟ້າ ແຂວງອັດຕະປື ສະຖານ​ທີ່​ທ່ອງ​ທ່ຽວຫນອງຟ້າ ​ເປັນປ່ອງ​ພູ​ເຂົາ​ໄຟ​ບູຮານ. ຢູ່​ໃນ​ໃຈກາງ​ຂອງ​ເຂດ​ອະນຸລັກ​ແຫ່ງ​ ຊາດດົງອຳ ​ �​ພັນ, ຫນອງ​ຟ້າເປັນອັນຍະ​ມະນີທປ ີ່​ ະດັບມ ​ ົງກຸດແຫ່ງປ ​ ່າອັນສ ​ ວຍ​ງາມ.

photo Alexy Gnilenkov

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Si Phan Don Champasak Province

When the Mekong River decided to spread its channels over a width of 14km on its exit from Laos, Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) was formed. This tranquil and alluring section of the great river’s passage is known for its silk weaving heritage, remnants of old French colonial houses and the tide of fishermen that float down the river each morning looking for a daily catch.

ສີ​ພ ່ ນ ັ ​ດອນ ​ແຂວງ​ຈ�ຳປາ​ສກ ັ ເ​ ຂດ​ທີ່​ສະຫງົບງຽບແລະມີ​ສະ​ເຫ​ນ່ຢູ່​ກາງສາຍ​ແມ່​ນ້ຳ�ຂອງທີ່​ຮູ້​ກັນ​ໃນ​ນາມ​ມລ ໍ ະດົກ​ການ​ຕໍ່າ​ຜ້າໄຫມ, ຮູບ​ແບບເຮືອນຊານ​ເກົ່າ​ແກ່ສະ​ໄຫມພວກ​ລ່າ​ເມືອງ​ຂຶ້ນ​ຝຣັ່ງ​​ແລະເຮືອ​ຊາວ​ປະມົງທີ່​ລ່ອງ​ລອຍ​ຕາມ​ ແມ່​ນ້ຳ�ເພື່ອ​ຊອກ​ຫາ​ປາ​ໃນ​ຍາມ​ເຊົ້າ. ​ເປັນຫມູ່ເກາະດອນທີ່​ສະຫງົບ​ງຽບແລະສະຫງ່າ​ງາມ.

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Attapeu Town Attapeu Province

Seemingly alone and isolated in the far south-east of Laos, Attapeu town is the base for all activities in this tangled region of waterfalls, mountains and ethnic villages. Its streets and laneways are as green and leafy as you’ll find in any provincial capital and the market is a centre-point for social and commercial endeavour.

ເ​ ມືອງ​ອດ ັ ​ຕະປື ​ແຂວງ​ອດ ັ ​ຕະປື ເບິ່ງ ຄ້າ ຍຄື ວ່າ ເປັ ນ ເຂດຕາເວັ ນ ອອກສ່ຽ ງໃຕ້ທີ່ໂ ດດດ່ຽ ວແລະຫ່າ ງໄກຂອງ ປະເທດລາວ, ເມືອງອັດຕະປື ເປັນຈຸດພື້ນຖານໃຫ້ແກ່ທກ ຸ ກິດຈະກຳ�​ ຢູ່ໃນເຂດດັ່ງກ່າວ ທີ່ມ​ີ ການປະສົມ​ປະສານ​ກັນລະຫວ່າງ​ນ້ຳ�ຕົກ​ຕາດ, ພູຜາແລະຫມູ່ບ້ານຊົນເຜົ່າ​ ສ່ວນ​ນ້ອຍ. ຖະຫນົນຫົນທາງຢູ່​ໃນ​ເຂດ​ນີ້ເຕັມ​ໄປ​ດ້ວຍສີຂຽວຂອງ​ຕົ້ນ​ໄມ້​ໃບ​ຫຍ້າທີ່​ ຄ້າຍຄື​ກັບ​ຕົວເມືອງໃຫຍ່​ ໃນ​ແຂວງ​ຕ່າງໆ.

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Tad Fane

Champasak Province The twin falls of Tad Fane mark the edge of Dong Hua Sao National Protected Area like guards at the gate. They drop more than 120m off a rocky cliff where the raised forest meets its edge. This is perhaps the most spectacular waterfall in Laos due to its remarkable symmetry and location.

ຕາດ​ຟານ ​ແຂວງ​ຈຳ� ປາ​ສກ ັ ຕາດ​ຟານ ເປັນນ້ຳ�ຕົກຕາດຄູ່ ທີ່​ເປັນຈຸດ​ ສຳ�ຄັນຄື​ກັບຄົນຍາມ​ປະຕູ​ທາງ​ເຂົ້າຂອງ​ ເຂດ​ອານຸລັກ​ແຫ່ງ​ຊາດດົງ​ຫົວ​ສາວ. ນ້ຳ�ຕົກ ຕາດທີ່​ຕົກ ​ຈາກ​ຜາ​ຫີ ນ ​ດ້ວ ຍ​ ຄວາມ​ສງູ 120 ​ແມັດ ລົງ​ໄປ​ພົບ​ກັບ​ປ່າ​ ທີ່ຂຽວງາມ​ດ້ານ​ລຸ່ມ.

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Village Life Saravan Province

ວິຖຊ ີ ວ ີ ດ ິ ຊາວບ້ານ ​ແຂວງ​ສາລະ​ວນ ັ

As over half of the province is under the veil of natural forest, reaching remote communities is a true test of willpower. Rutted roads and muddied paths limit accessibility, but then that’s the draw. Traditional village life can be experienced without any other visitors around while agricultural practice and local customs abound without distraction.

ຍ້ອນ​ວ່າຫລາຍ​ກວ່າ​ເຄິ່ງຫນຶ່ງ​ຂອງ​ແຂວງຖືກປົກ​ຫຸ້ມດ້ວຍ​ປ່າ​ທຳ�​ມະ​ຊາ​ດ, ການໄດ້​ ພົບ​ກັບ​ຊຸມ​ຊົນ​​ເຂດຫ່າງ​ໄກ​ສອກ​ຫລີກຈຶ່ງເປັນຄວາມມຸ້ງ​ຫວັງອັນ​ທ້າ​ທາຍຢ່າງແທ້​ຈິງ. ຫົນທາງ​ດິນ​ແດງ ​ແລະ ​ເສັ້ນທາງ​ທີ່​ເຕັມ​ໄປ​ດ້ວຍ​ຂີ້ຕົມ​ເຮັດ​ໃຫ້ການ​ເຂົ້າ​ເຖິງ​ມີ​ຄວາມ​ ຫຍຸ້ງຍາກ​ຫລາຍ. ຊີວດ ິ ​ການ​ເປັນຢູ່​ແບບ​ພື້ນ​ເມືອງຂອງຊາວບ້ານທີ່​ນີ້ຈຶ່ງເປັນປະສົບ​ການ​ ທີ່ຫນ ​ ້າ​ຕື່ນ​ເຕັ້ນ ​ແລະຍັງ​ບໍ່​ມ​ນ ີ ັກທ ​ ່ອງ​ທ່ຽວຄົນ​ໃດ​ໄດ້ສຳ ​ �​ຜັດ​ເທື່ອ. 31


photo Alexy Gnilenkov

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Roads

Sekong Province The roads in Sekong are not just some of the most basic in the country but many of them lead far away from major routes. The wildest image of the south could be encapsulated through its physical infrastructure. However, views over misted swathes of forest on a cool mountain morning in Sekong, far from cities, noise and pollution, are unforgettable.

ຖະຫນົນ​ຫນ ົ ທາງ ​ແຂວງ​ເຊ​ກອງ ຖະຫນົນ​ຫົນທາງ​ຢູ່​ເຊ​ກອງເປັນຖະຫນົນ​ແບບປະຖົມ​ປະ​ຖານ​ທີ່​ສດ ຸ ​ໃນ​ປະ​ເທດ. ຫນຶ່ງ​ໃນຮູບ​ພາບທຳ�​ມະ​ຊາດຂອງ​ພາກ​ ໃຕ້ແມ່ນພື້ນຖານ​ໂຄງ​ລ່າງດັ່ງກ່າວຂອງ​ມັນ.​ເຖິງ​ຢ່າງ​ໃດ​ກໍ່ດ,ີ ທິວ​ທັດ​ທຳ�​ມະ​ຊາດ ​ແລະອາກາດ​ຫນາວ​ເຢັນຂອງເຂດ​ພູ​ ສູງ​ຍາມ​ເຊົ້າ​ໃນ​ເຊ​ກອງ ​ແຫ່ງ​ນີ້​ກໍ່ຍັງຫ່າງ​ໄກ​ຈາກ​ຕົວ​ເມືອງ​ທີ່​ສັບສົນວຸ້ນວາຍ, ​ເຕັມ​ໄປ​ດ້ວຍ​ສຽງທີ່​ເນືອງ​ນັນ ​ແລະມົນ​ລະ​ພດ ິ ​ ເຊິ່ງເປັນຄວາມ​ຊົງ​ຈຳ�​ທີ່​ບໍ່​ອາດ​ລມ ື ​ໄດ້.

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How to Get There Plane: Lao Airlines operates daily flights to Pakse from Vientiane and Luang Prabang Bus: Public transport is available to/from Vientiane and Pakse (10 hours) on standard and VIP buses. From Luang Prabang, expect a stop in Vientiane and a switch of bus.

ຈະ​ໄປ​ເຖິງສະຖານທີ​ດ ່ ງັ່ ກ່າວ​ໄດ້​ແນວ​ໃດ ? ດ້ວຍ​ ຍົນ: ສາຍການບິນລາວມີ​ ຖ້ຽວບິນຈາກວຽງຈັນແລະຫລວງພະ​ ບາງ ໄປປາກ​ເຊທຸກໆ​ມື້ ດ້ວຍ​ລົດ​ເມ: ມີລົດ​ຂົນ​ສົ່ງ​ສາທາລະນະໄປ​/ກັບຈາກ​ວຽງ​ຈັນຫາປາກ​ເຊ (ທຸກໆ 10 ຊົ່ວ​ໂມງ) ມີທັງລົດເ​ ມແບບ​ທຳ�​ມະ​ດາແລະແບບ VIP.

Getting Around

Bus: From Pakse, you can find connections to Si Phan Don, Paksong, Attapeu and Sekong. Each of these runs shorter services to attractions and towns in the vicinity.

ການເດີນທາງທ່ຽວຊົມ ດ້ວຍ​ລົດ​ເມ: ຈາກ​ປາກ​​ເຊ, ທ່ານສາມາດ​ເດີນທາງຕໍ່​ໄປຍັງ​ສີ່​ພັນ​ດອນ, ປາກ​ຊ່ອງ, ອັດ​ຕະປື ​ແລະ ​ເຊ​ກອງ​ໄດ້.

Motorbike: Perhaps the easiest way to move within Southern Laos is with a motorbike. The Southern Swing Loop (included within Lonely Planet’s Laos Guidebook) provides a route that leads from Pakse to Tat Lo, Tat Lo to Attapeu, Attapeu to Paksong, and Paksong to Pakse. This loop can take between 3 and 5 days, depending on weather and time constraints.

ດ້ວຍລົດຈັກ: ວິທ​​ີ ເດີນທາງທີ່​ງ່າຍດາຍ​ທີ່​ສດ ຸ ​ໃນ​ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວ​ໄປມາ​ພາຍ​ໃນ​ເຂດ​ ພາກໃຕ້ຂອງລາວ ​ແມ່ນດ້ວຍລົດຈັກ. ວາລະສານ Lonely Planet ໄດ້​ແນະນຳ�​ ກ່ຽວກັບ​ເສັ້ນທາງທີ່​ຈະນຳ�ພາ​ທ່ານ​ເດີນທາງອອກ​ຈາກ​ປາກ​ເຊ ​ໄປ​​ຕາດ​ລ,ໍ ຈາກ​ຕາດ​ ລໍ ​ໄປ​ອັດ​ຕະປື, ຈາກ​ອັດ​ຕະປື ​ໄປ​ປາກຊ່ອງ ​ແລະ ຈາກ​ປາກ​ຊ່ອງ ​ໄປ​ປາກ​ເຊ.

Bicycle: If you’ve time and are fit enough, travelling by bicycle can be the most rewarding. A couple of panniers and a good bicycle and map should do it. In the towns and on islands, rental is easy and cheap.

ດ້ວຍລົດຖີບ: ຖ້າທ່ານມີເວລາແລະມີຄວາມແຂງແຮງດີ, ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວດ້ວຍ​ລົດຖີບ ຈະ​ເປັນວິທທ ີ ີ່​ສ້າງ​ຄວາມ​ປະ​ທັບ​ໃຈ​ໄດ້​ດ​ີ ທີ່​ສດ ຸ . ມີ​ກະຕ່າ​ໃສ່​ເຄື່ອງພ້ອມ​ກັບ​ລົດຖີບ​ ທີ່​ມຄ ​ີ ນ ຸ ​ນະພາ​ບແລະແຜນ​ທີ່​ນຳ�​ທາງທ່ານ​ກໍ່​ພ້ອມ​ທີ່​ຈະ​ອອກ​ເດີນ ​ ທາງ​ແລ້ວ.

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SABAIDEE GUEST

Gabriel Kuperman Directing Lao Films Towards a Bigger Screen

ທ່ານ ກາ​ເບຣວ ກູ​ເປີ​ແມນ

ກຳລັງເ​ ຮັດໃຫ້​ຟີມຮ ​ ູບ​ເງົາລາວກ້າວໄປ​ສູ່ຮູບ​ເງົາ​ຈໍ​ໃຫຍ່ The Luang Prabang Film Festival (LPFF) is one of the most anticipated staples of the Lao event calendar. Filmmakers and an audience from all over Southeast Asia flock to the former royal city to experience the very best of the region’s movie productions. Leading the charge with its organisation and promotion is its Director, Gabriel Kuperman. Sabaidee Magazine caught up with Gabriel to chat about this year’s festival and its bright future. Can you give me a brief history of the LPFF and why it began? The Luang Prabang Film Festival was founded in late 2009, with its inaugural event in December of the following year. The concept was twofold: Firstly, we wanted to build an event that supported the Southeast Asian film industries, creating a platform for regional filmmakers to collaborate and present their best films to an international audience. And secondly, we wanted to use the festival, and our activities throughout the year, to help develop the Lao film industry, which was really just in its infancy back then. We are very excited for our fourth edition this year!

How has it grown in terms of support, screening submissions, and reputation over the years? Fundraising has been, by far, our biggest ongoing struggle, but that’s an issue facing most not-for-profits like us. But, we are slowly getting more sponsorship from local businesses and international organisations. We’re fortunate to have great support from the Luang Prabang community, our gracious hosts. We have a special way of curating our festival too. While most festivals have an open-call submission process, we have our programming recommended to us by our network of ‘Motion Picture Ambassadors’, film experts in each of the participating countries. This ensures that we are showing the cream of the crop from all of the countries in the region.

When did you become involved in the festival and what has been your experience since then? With a professional and educational background in film, I approached the Department of Cinema after moving to Laos from New York. I explained that there had been several examples around the world of film industries being born out of festivals in unlikely places. Excited by the prospect, we moved forward with myself as the director of this government project. I cannot believe how much the festival has grown since that time. Of course, there have been challenges along the way, but none insurmountable. I am so pleased that we can continue to influence and inspire local and regional filmmakers. That makes it worth all the effort for me.

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What are your impressions of the Lao film industry today, and what about the future? The Lao film industry has made huge strides in the past several years. When we started the project, only one or two feature films were being made per year. Now, it’s averaging more like five. Lao people are great storytellers, so as they continue to develop their skills and unique styles, films are quickly reaching an international standard. Laos will never be the next Hollywood, but I’m confident that we can, at the very least, have a successful and sustainable film industry on par with those of our neighbouring countries.

What other activities are organised around the festival, during its running week and throughout the year? The festival takes place over five very full days. In addition to daytime screenings at Amantaka, and evening screenings at the outdoor Handicraft Market, we also have nightly performances at the latter venue at 6pm. At our Visitor Centre, we have multiple exhibitions and short film programmes. There will also be two panel discussions with international guests, and many post-screening Q&As with filmmakers, as over half of our 28 feature films will have their directors in attendance! Throughout the year, the Luang Prabang Film Festival organises special film events (like the American Film Week this past May), and educational activities and workshops that give Lao filmmakers the necessary knowledge and experience to continue producing great movies.

So, why Luang Prabang for the festival and not Vientiane? Many people have asked me why we don’t put on this event in Vientiane, where the bulk of the Lao film industry works. There are a few reasons for this. Mainly, the Luang Prabang Film Festival is a destination event, and if we want regional participation and visitors from further abroad, we need to have this event in a place people are excited to travel to. As the town is steeped in historical, religious, and architectural culture, what better place for a cultural event? The other thing that makes Luang Prabang great for this type of festival is its small size. When you are in this town during the week of the festival, you can really feel the energy of the event.

Finally, what film or aspect of the festival are you most excited about this year? We will have two World Premieres at the festival this year, and both feature-film debuts from Lao directors. The festival’s opening film will be Big Heart, directed by Mattiphob Douangmyxay, about a young boxer overcoming some personal obstacles while falling in love. We will also screen I Love Savanh, directed by Bounthong Nhotmanhkong, about a Japanese expatriate working in Southern Laos and taking romantic interest in a weaver. I am very excited to see these great films on the big screen. The LPFF takes places from December 7th-11th 2013. FIND OUT MORE! Visit the LPFF website at www.lpfilmfest.org and the Facebook page at www.facebook.com/lpfilmfest. All screenings and activities are free to the public.

ງານ​ມະຫະກຳຮູບ​ເງົາ​ຫລວງ​ພະ​ບາງ(ຫລືLPFF) ​ແມ່ນ​ຫນຶ່ງ​ ໃນງານມະຫະກຳການສະ​ແດງທີ່​ຫນ້າ​ຕື່ນ​ຕາ​ຕື່ນ​ໃຈ​ທີ່​ສຸດໃນ​ ປະຕິ ທິ ນ ຂອງ​ລ າວ. ຜູ້ ​ສ້ າ ງ​ຮູ ບ ​ເ ງົ າ ​ແ ລະຜູ້ ​ຊົ ມ ຈາກທົ່ ວ ​ທຸ ກ​ ມຸ ມ ຂອງ​ອ າຊີ ​ຕ າ​ເ ວັ ນ ​ອ ອກ​ສ່ ຽ ງ​​ໃ ຕ້ ​ໄ ດ້ ​ເ ຂົ້ າ ​ມ າ​ທີ່ ​ນ ະຄອນ​ ພະລາດ​ຊະ​ວັງເ​ ກົ່າແ ​ ກ່ແ ​ ຫ່ງນ ​ ີ້ ເ​ ພື່ອຊ ​ ື່ນຊ ​ ົມຜ ​ ະ​ລິດຕ ​ ະພັນຟີມຮູບ​ ເງົ າ ​ຂ ອງ​ພ າກ​ພື້ ນ ​ທີ່ ​ດີ ທີ່ ​ສຸ ດ . ຜູ້ ​ທີ່ ​ນ ຳພາ​ຈັ ດ ​ຕັ້ ງ ​ປ ະຕິ ບັ ດ​ ແລະສະຫນັບສະຫນູນງານ​ມະຫະກຳ​ຄັ້ງ​ນີ້ ​ແມ່ນຜູ້​ສ້າງ​ຮູບ​ເງົາ​ ຊື່​ດັງ​ທ່ານກາ​ເບຣວກູ​ເປີ​ແມນ. ງານ​ມະຫະກຳ​ຟີມຮູບ​ເງົາ​ຫລວງພະ​ບາງໄດ້​ຖືກກໍ່ຕັ້ງຂຶ້ນ​ໃນ​ທ້າຍ​ປີ 2009 ເຊິ່ງງານ​ວາງ​ສະ​ແດງ​ຄັ້ງ​ປະຖົມ​ມະ​ເລີກແມ່ນ​ໃນ​ເດືອນ​ທັນວາ​ຂອງ​ປີ​ຕໍ່​ມາ. ມັນເ​ ປັນກິດຈະກຳ​ທີ່ສ ​ ້າງ​ຂຶ້ນເພື່ອສ ​ ົ່ງເ​ ສີມອ ​ ຸດສາຫະກຳ​ຟີມຮູບເ​ ງົາຂ ​ ອງ​ອາຊີ​ ຕາ​ເວັນ​ອອກ​ສ່ຽງ​ໃຕ້. ຂ້ າ ພະ​ເ ຈົ້ າ ໄດ້ ເ ຂົ້ າ ​ໄ ປ​ຫ າ​ກົ ມ ​ຮູ ບ ​ເ ງົ າ ພາຍ​ຫ ລັ ງ ຍ້ າ ຍ​ຈ າກ​ນິ ວ ຢອກມາ​ຢູ່ ​ ປະ​ເທດລາວ. ຂ້າພະ​ເຈົ້າໄດ້ອະທິບາຍ​ວ່າມີ​ຕົວຢ່າງຫລາຍ​ໆ​ອັນໃນ​ໂລກທີ່​ ອຸດສາຫະກຳ​ຟີມຮູບ​ເງົາຂະຫຍາຍຕົວ​ຢ່າງ​​ໄວວາຍ້ອນງານ​ມະຫາ​ກຳທີ່​ຈັດ​ ຢູໃ​່ ນ​ສະຖານ​ທທ ​ີ່ ຫ ​ີ່ າ່ ງ​ໄກ​ອອກ​ໄປ.ນັ້ນແ ​ ມ່ນຈຸດເ​ ລີ່ມ ​ ຕົ້ນຂອງ​ພວກ​ຂາ້ ພະ​ເຈົ້າ. ອຸດສາຫະກຳ​ຟີມຮ ​ ູບເ​ ງົາຂ ​ ອງ​ລາວໄດ້ຂ ​ ະຫຍາຍຕົວຢ ​ ່າງ​ ໄ ​ ວວາ​ໃນ​ຫລາຍ​ປທ ີ​ ີ່​ ຜ່ານ​ມານີ້. ​ເມື່ອ​ພວກ​ຂ້າພະ​ເຈົ້າເລີ່​ມຕົ້ນ​ໂຄງການ​ນີ້, ມີການ​ຜະລິດຟີມຮູບ​ ເງົາພຽງຫນຶ່ງຫລືສອງ​​ເລື່ອງຕໍ່​ປີເທົ່າ​ນັ້ນ. ມາ​ເຖິງ​ປະຈຸ​ບັນ​ນີ້, ສະ​ເລ່ຍ​ແລ້ວມີ​ ການ​ສ້າງ​ຮູບ​ເງົາຫລາຍ​ກວ່າ​ຫ້າ​ເລື່ອງ​ຕໍ່​ປີ. ຂ້າພະ​ເຈົ້າຄາດ​ຫວງັ ໄ ​ ວ້ວ ​ າ່ ຟີມຮູບເ​ ງົາສອງ​ເລື່ອງຄື: ເ​ ລື່ອງໃຈ​ໃຫຍ່ແລະເລື່ອງ​ ຂ້ອຍ​ຮັກ​ສະຫວັນເຊິ່ງສ້າງ​ໂດຍ​ຜູ້​ກຳກັບ​ຄົນລາວຈະຖືກ​ນຳໄປສາຍ​ໃນ​ງານ​ ຮູບ​ເງົາ​ໂລກ. ງານ​ມະຫະກຳLPFF ຈະຈັດ​ຂຶ້ນ​ໃນລະຫວ່າງວັນ​ທີ່ 7-11 ທັນວາ 2013 37


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Sithan Neua Temple

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In Peng Temple

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National Museum

t e rke ad Ma men t gh ro Ni ng P o k Me

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Cultural Hall

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To Luang Prabang

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That Luang

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Phiavat Temple

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That Luang

Vientiane

Lao Aviation

Presidential Palace

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Friendship Bridge

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ການບິນລາວ ອະທິບາຍລາຍລະອຽດ ກຽວກັບຂັນ ້ ຕອນການບິນ ການບິນລາວ, ເຊິ່ງເປັນສາຍການບິນແຫ່ງຊາດທີ່ໃຫຍ່ທີ່ສດ ຸ ຂອງລາວ, ໄດ້ເຊື້ອເຊີນສື່ມວນຊົນ ເຂົ້າຟັງຂັ້ນຕອນການເຮັດວຽກຂອງການບິນແຕ່ລະຄັ້ງ, ຫຼັງຈາກເຫດການຍົນຕົກທີ່ປາກເຊ. ທ່ານສົມສະໄໝ ວິສນ ູ ນະລັດ, ຮອງອຳ�ນວຍການບິນລາວໄດ້ໃຫ້ສຳ�ພາດພິເສດກັບວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດີ ເພື່ອສຶກສາຂັ້ນຕອນການເຮັດວຽກ ແລະມາດຕະການຄວາມປອດໄພຂອງການບິນ ລາວ ເຊິ່ງສາຍການບິນຖືເປັນສິ່ງທີ່ສຳ�ຄັນທີ່ສດ ຸ . “ພວກເຮົ າ ເຮັ ດ ສຸ ດ ຄວາມສາມາດເພື່ອ ຮັບ ປະກັນ ຄວາມຮູ້ສຶ ກ ແລະຄວາມປອດໄພຂອງ ຜູ້ໂດຍສານ ໃນທຸກໆຖ້ຽວບິນ,” ທ່ານສົມສະໄໝກ່າວ. “ການກະກຽມ ແມ່ນເລີ່ມ 3 ຊົ່ວໂມງ ກ່ອນເວລາເຮືອບິນອອກ, ເຈົ້າໜ້າທີ່ຮັບຜິດຊອບການບິນ ເລີ່ມກວດສອບການປະຕິບັດລະບົບ ການບິນ ເຊິ່ງລວມມີ ແຜນການບິນທີ່ເປັນລະບົບຄອມພິວເຕີ້, ການລາຍງານສະພາບອາກາດ ແລະ ການແຈ້ງເຕືອນນັກບິນ.”

LAO AIRLINES

ເມື່ອເຮືອບິນກຽມພ້ອມ ແລະ ໄດ້ຮັບການກວດເຊັກຢ່າງລະອຽດຖີ່ຖ້ວນແລ້ວ, ວິຊ ໍ ະວະກອນ ບຳ�ລຸງຮັກສາເຮືອບິນຈິ່ງອະນຸຍາດປ່ອຍເຮືອບິນອອກ. ເມື່ອເຮືອບິນຢູ່ເທິງອາກາດ ແລະ ມຸ້ງໄປສູ່ຈດ ຸ ໝາຍປາຍທາງຢ່າງລາບລື່ນ, ຫົວໜ້ານັກບິນເປັນ ຜູ້ຕັດສິນໃຈວ່າການລົງຈອດມີຄວາມປອດໄພຫຼືບໍ່ ໂດຍອິງໃສ່ ການເບິ່ງເຫັນ, ຄວາມໄວຂອງລົມ ແລະ ລະດັບຄວາມສູງຂອງເມກ. ທ່ານສົມສະໄໝ ສະແດງຄວາມມຸ້ງໝັ້ນ ໃນການສ້າງຄວາມເຊື່ອໝັ້ນຕໍ່ປວງຊົນ ໃນຄວາມ ໜັກແໜ້ນຂອງສາຍການບິນລາວ ໃນດ້ານຄວາມປອດໄພທັງຂັ້ນຕອນການກຽມບິນ, ໃນຂະນະບິນ ແລະ ຫຼັງການບິນ ທີ່ມກ ີ ານພົວພັນສອດປະສານກັນທັງໝົດ.

DESCRIBES

FLIGHT

PROCEDURES Lao Airlines, the state’s biggest air carrier, last October invited the media to listen to a rundown of its flight operation procedures in the aftermath of its fatal air crash in Pakse which killed 49 people.

As we walk around a newly-built aircraft hangar at Wattay International Airport, Vientiane, Mr Somsamay points to some other important procedures he believes are necessary for the public to know.

Mr Somsamay Visounnalath, Lao Airlines Vice-President granted a special interview with Sabaidee Magazine to discuss the operations and safety measures of the carrier.

“The pilots and cabin crew arrive at the briefing room 90 minutes before scheduled departure. They meet for 30 minutes and discuss flight planning as well as review possible risky flight situations and emergency handling procedures.”

“We do our utmost to make sure all passengers feel and are safe each and every flight,” said Mr Somsamay. “The preparation itself begins three hours before departure time when the flight dispatcher starts putting together the flight folder which includes a computerised flight plan, weather reports and pilot notices.”

Once the plane in thoroughly checked the Maintenance Engineer releases it for departure. At this point, the pilots and cabin crew take over operations and communicate all necessary safety messages and weather reports to the passengers.

“Our goal is to ready them for any potential emergency or abnormal situations,” says Somsamay. When the plane is in the air and cruising smoothly towards its destination, the captain decides whether a safe landing is possible taking into account visibility, wind speed and the cloud ceiling. “After this, the Air Traffic Controller at the landing site gives an all-clear and the plane engages the last phase of its flight.” Mr Somsamay expressed his wish to reassure the public of Lao Airlines’ commitment to safety and the pre-, in- and post-flight procedures of which that encompasses. F o r m o re i n f o r m a t i o n , p l e a s e v i s i t www.laoairlines.com. 39


eat

JAMIL ZAHID RESTAURANT : Indian/Pakistani. $

LISTING

VIENTIANE

ARIA MIXAI ITALIAN CULINARY ARTS : Italian.

$$$$ Aria presents high-end epicurean Italian cuisine in an elegant salon setting in downtown Vientiane. Under the guidance of Italian-born Chef Gerardo Derevizis, the kitchen, which opens into the ground floor dining area, produces traditional hearty Italian fare including antipasti, homemade pasta and wood fired pizza using the highest quality ingredients. Discerning diners will welcome the extensive wine list which boasts fine imports from Italy. The set lunches are extremely popular on weekdays. 8 Rue Francois Ngin, 021 222589, www.ariaorg.com

BENONI CAFÉ : Asian/Western/Café. $$ Escape the

bustle of downtown Vientiane at Benoni Café, a bright and airy café-cum-restaurant which serves up fresh and tasty Asian and Western fare. Choose from a wide range of baguettes, quiches, burgers and noodle and rice dishes – all prepared quickly and served with a smile. For those looking for a caffeine or sugar hit you’ll be pleased to know the Lao coffee is home roasted and the delicious cakes and sweets are all made in-house. WiFi, family friendly. Rue Setthathirath (above Phimphone Market), 021 213334, Mon-Sat 10am–5pm, www.facebook. com/benonicafe

This cheap and cheerful eatery is affectionately known simply as Jamil’s by the loyal diners that frequent it. Tucked down a residential alleyway, Jamil and his team serve up authentic Indian and Pakistani dishes which are full of flavour and light on the hip pocket. The menu is extensive and includes something for meat lovers and vegetarians alike but if you’re feeling overwhelmed by choice ordering anything that comes from Jamil’s on-site traditional tandoori oven is always a safe bet. Off Khounboulom Road, Ban Haysok, 020 5650 2455, 11am-10.30pm, 7 days, www.facebook.com/ JamilZahidRestaurantVientiane

KUNG’S CAFÉ :

Lao/Breakfast. $ Tucked down a residential laneway which opens onto an inviting sundappled courtyard, this popular breakfast and lunch haunt is a hit with those in the know. The breakfast and lunch menu runs all day so try Lao-inspired sweets like sticky rice pancakes with mango or banana French toast and savoury dishes like meatballs in broth with a fresh crunchy baguette or the Pad Lao noodles with pork. On the main street, look for a small hand painted sign pointing the way. Off Rue Simeuang, Piawat Village, 021 219101, 6am3pm, 7 days, www.facebook.com/KungsCafeLao

LA SIGNATURE : French/Fusion. $$$ Set in the stylish Ansara Hotel, this sophisticated restaurant perfectly marries French-Lao fusion with old-world charm. Choose between dining indoors in the high-ceilinged salon or al fresco on the elegant terrace. Sample salmon tartare with green apple millefeuille, Burgundy snails and three-flavoured lamb or let the chef guide you with daily specials including Lao-style petit fours. Desserts include a not-to-be-missed crème brulee trio. Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha, 021 213514, 6.30am–10.00 am, 11.30am–2.30pm, 16.30pm–9.30pm, 7 days, www. ansarahotel.com LAO KITCHEN : Lao. $$ A colourful modern eatery that specialises in authentic Lao dishes. Sisters Noi and Teng run the show while their extended family help out in the kitchen preparing traditional soups, stews, grilled meats, stir-fry dishes and of course the ubiquitous laap (the duck variation is a stand out). A great place for those new to Lao cuisine – the menu is full of helpful explanations for each dish and warns you about anything that may be a little too piquant for some palates. Rue Hengboun (opposite KP Hotel), 021 254332, 11am–10pm, 7 days, www.lao-kitchen.com L’ A D R E S S E D E T I N AY R E S TA U R A N T FRANÇAIS : French. $$$ Chef Tinay produces

Benoni Café

BAN GAI TEX MEX CANTINA : American/Mexican. $$ A casual eatery which some say serves the best chicken in Vientiane. Once famed purely for their fingerlicking buffalo hot wings, Ban Gai has recently expanded their menu to include a host of authentic Tex Mex classics including nachos, enchiladas and burritos heaped with fresh salsa, gooey cheese and accompanied by bowls of piping hot rice and beans. Pair anything from the menu with one of their delicious margaritas and you’re set. Family friendly, delivery. Sokpaluang Road, 020 9825 6654, Tue-Sun 11am–9pm, www.facebook.com/ BanGaiHouseOfChicken BISTRO 22 :

French. $$$$ Chef Philippe presents honest French bistro fare at this cosy, hole-in-the-wall eatery. The food is fresh and flavourful with highlights including the goat’s cheese salad, foie gras, rabbit terrine and classic steak frites. Popular with the expat crowd, the service is faultless and the desserts, including a delectable chocolate fondant, are not to be missed. 22 Samsenthai Road, Ban Khaonyot, 021 214129, Mon-Fri 11am–2pm, Mon-Sat 6pm–10pm

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some of Vientiane’s finest and most inventive French cuisine at this chic dining spot. The ever-evolving menu features innovative dishes which blend contemporary and traditional flavours and techniques with stylish presentation. The whole duck breast with homemade foie gras and white truffle oil is a current favourite and Tinay’s signature cassoulet with homemade confit duck is the perfect nod to traditional French comfort food. For dessert the crème brulee is the best in town. Behind Wat Ong Teu, 020 5691 3434, Mon-Fri 11.30am–2pm, 6.30pm–10pm, Sat 6.30pm–10pm, www.ladressedetinay.com. L'Addresse de Tinay

LE SILAPA RESTAURANT : French. $$$$ Le Silapa

is an elegant gastronomic experience housed above the owners more casual establishment I-Beam Bar. Decadent and extensive the menu contains a collection of classic and modern French-inspired delicacies and the wine list includes bottles from France, Italy, Australia and South Africa. For a spot of post-dinner indulgence the cheese selection is outstanding. The ever-changing daily lunch set menu is a steal. Free WiFi. Level 1, 88 Setthathirath Road (above I Beam), 021 219689, 11am–11pm, 7 days, www.facebook.com/lesilapavientiane

MASA SPOON CAFÉ N’ BISTRO : Asian/Western. $$$ A bright and cheerful new restaurant with an eye for design and detail. Split over two levels Masa pairs minimalist furniture with feature walls of raw timber, cool wall art and vintage china. The menu runs from share-plates of Asian-spiced chicken wings and crunchy onion rings to dishes for one including signature dishes Masa Spoon burger which comes with herbed wedges, sticky BBQ spare ribs and tasty pastas. Sweet tooths will love the honey toast – perfect with a cup of tea. Rue Dongpalanthong, Phonesinuan (next to Pizza Company), 021 261634, Mon-Sat 11am–11pm, www.facebook. com/MasaSpoonCafeNBistro

Makphet

MAKPHET :

Lao. $$$ This restaurant-cum-social enterprise is working to shape lives. Run by Peuan Mit, founded by Friends-International, Makphet provides training in hospitality to disadvantaged youth in Laos. If that wasn’t enough reason to dine here the kitchen creates an inspired take on Lao cuisine, blending traditional flavours with modern techniques. Don’t miss the cocktail list (the hibiscus and lime daiquiri is a must try) and delectable desserts. Downtown behind Wat Ong Teu, 021 260587, Mon-Sat 11am–9pm, cl osed Tue and Thurs 2pm–6pm for student training, www. makphet-restaurant.org

OSAKA HAC CHAO : Japanese. $$ This cosy eatery is

usually buzzing with Japanese customers who come for a taste of home – always a good sign. Simple traditional and not-so-traditional Japanese fare is on offer including generous sushi and sashimi platters, crisp tempura, steaming bowls of ramen and udon noodle soups and a variety of katsu dishes. The set meals are a great way to try a little of everything and the tempura ice cream is a quirky addition to the sweets menu. Nokeokoummane Road (next to Le Banneton)

PIMENTON : Spanish/Steakhouse/Tapas. $$$ Drawing on Hispanic flavours and flair the emphasis here is on open wood fire quality grilled meats and small bites. Try contemporary tapas like montadito of pork belly, homemade grilled chorizo, garlic prawns and imported jamón ibérico de bellota or look to the grill for succulent tenderloin or lamb chops served with a kicky chimichurri sauce. The slick warehouseesque décor with polished concrete and exposed piping only enhances the dining experience at Vientiane’s hippest eatery. 5 Rue Nokeoukoumane, 021 215506, Mon-Sat 11am–2.30pm, 5pm–10pm, www.pimentonrestaurant-vte.com RAY’S GRILLE : American/Mexican. $ It’s all about

comfort food at Ray’s – home style burgers, legendary Philly cheese steak sandwiches and tasty quesadillas – all fresh and made to order in this homely joint. While the real drawcard is the colossal cheeseburger (best handled with two hands) mention must also go to the falafel burger which is sure to satisfy vegetarians. A selection of local and imported beers are available including a few microbrewed American craft beers – just the ticket to wash down this tasty diner fare. 17/1 Sihom Road, 020 5896 6866, Mon-Fri, Sun 11am–3pm, 6pm–11pm


SOUL KITCHEN : Italian. $$ This laid-back dinner hot spot is a little off the main drag but the pizzas and casual atmosphere – complete with rock and blues tunes – make it worth the trip. The menu includes tasty pasta dishes and salads but it’s the traditional wood fired pizzas that keeps Soul Kitchen’s loyal fans coming back for more. In keeping with the quotes from rock stars scrawled on the walls, the pies have fun names like ‘Rock n Roll’, ‘Purple Haze’ and ‘Voodoo Child’. Family friendly. Thadeua Road 143 (KM 0.5), 020 5612 0804, Tue-Sun 5.30pm–10.30pm, www.soulkitchen.vientiane@gmail.com VIENG SAWAN :

Vietnamese. $ Look beyond the décor at this bustling eatery which serves up cheap and delicious Vietnamese dishes to hungry masses. Order a fresh or fried spring roll combination which comes with heaped plates of fresh lettuce, herbs and noodles designed to be eaten together. If you’re feeling lost check out how neighbouring diners are doing things and follow suit. Spoken English is limited but the menu has helpful photographs. Look for the row of spring roll stalls along the front. Rue Hengboun (opposite Home Ideal), 021 213 990, Open 7 days morning to evening

YULALA CAFÉ & RESTAURANT : Japanese/ Fusion. $$ Pull up a chair or nestle into a floor cushion at this cute little joint which puts a Japanese spin on Western ingredients. While the daily specials are everchanging popular mainstays include sautéed chicken with tofu, soy sauce and mirin and the potato croquettes with mince beef and a tomato-based sauce. Set meals come with salad, pickled vegetables, flavoursome broth and steamed purple rice. Seating is limited so it can pack out early on the weekends. Rue Hengboun, 020 5510 4050, Tue-Sun 11.30am–2pm, 6pm–9.30pm

LUANG PRABANG

CAFÉ TOUI : Lao/Western. $$ A colourful hole in the wall on a quiet side street leading to the Mekong River. Chef Toui began his culinary journey as a waiter in Vientiane before working the kitchen at L’Elephant where he developed his passion for cooking. Now head of the kitchen at his own eatery Toui serves up hearty Lao and Western fare using fresh, local ingredients. The popular Lao Taster Menu offers platters of tasty shares like laap, steamed fish in banana leaf and vegetarian dishes. Sisavangvatthana Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 020 5657 6763, 6.30am-10.30pm, 7 days, www.cafetoui.com LA BELLE EPOQUE : Lao/Western. $$$ Housed in the grand Luang Say Residence, just outside the city centre, this upscale dining room exudes a warm, heritage ambience. The seasonal, healthy and creative menu changes quarterly and features a tempting selection of regional dishes from Laos and further afield in South East Asia. An on-site fruit and vegetable garden means culinary inspiration and fresh ingredients are always at the kitchen’s fingertips. 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, 071 260891, 6am-10.30pm, 7 days, www.luangsayresidence.com LES 3 NAGAS : Lao. $$$ Dining at Les 3 Nagas is a distinctly local affair with the restaurant housed both on the inviting terrace of the 3 Nagas Hotel and inside an adjacent colonial-style building. Executing both authentic Lao dishes and the chef’s original creations with a touch of French finesse this attractive lunch and dinner spot presents some of the finest food in town. Start your meal with the crisp and tangy Luang Prabang salad and round off with the black sticky rice for dessert. Happy hours 3pm – 6pm. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 253888, 6.30am-10.30pm, 7 days, www.3-nagas.com RESTAURANT L’ELEPHANT :

French/Lao. $$$ L’Elephant is housed in a charming colonial building just steps away from the magnificent Mekong River. Specialising in traditional and creative French and Lao cuisine the kitchen places an emphasis on using organic, local produce which is grown in their own gardens a few kilometres out of town. The use of these fresh herbs and vegetables enhances popular dishes like onion soup, delicate duck breast in maktoum sauce and tender buffalo steak with beurre café de Paris. Free WiFi. Kounxoa Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 252482, 11am-10pm, 7 days, www.elephant-restau.com

Sabaidee Highlight

Le Banneton

A slice of Parisian charm in Vientiane, a visit to Le Banneton is all about great coffee, good food, meeting with friends and enjoying the rustic boulangerieinspired atmosphere. O n t h e w a l l s y o u ’ l l s e e ro m a n t i c photographs of old Paris and behind the timber counter you’ll find French bakery staples like fresh crunchy baguettes, sourdough loaves and pain aux raisins. Patisserie aficionados will love the wicker baskets piled high with pastries including buttery croissants and delicate fruit tarts. All breads and pastries are baked fresh in-house daily by a skilled French baker and are perfect to grab on-the-go along with a takeaway coffee or to enjoy at your leisure in the light-filled salon or on the sunny terrace. A breakfast and lunch favourite with locals the friendly staff serve up honest homestyle French fare alongside exceptional coffee and fresh juices. The breakfast menu runs all day making Le Banneton the perfect spot for a leisurely weekend brunch. For breakfast opt for a straight-fromthe-oven croissant lathered with butter and jam or fruit salad with yogurt and

muesli. For something more substantial the Gourmand breakfast set comes with coffee, juice, bacon and eggs plus baguette and croissant and will no doubt satisfy even the most ravenous of appetites. Lunch standouts include La Salade Paysanne with perfect poached eggs and the Duck Confit The Quiche Chevre Epinards, goat cheese and spinach quiche is also a highlight. A bistro-inspired charcuterie menu is perfect for sharing and a selection of locally cured meats and charcuterie is available to purchase to take home. Next time you’re downtown grab a superb coffee, fresh croissant and linger awhile at Le Banneton, a refreshing and delectable addition to the Vientiane café scene. Le Banneton Rue Nokeokoumane BP 568, Ban Mixay, 021 217 321. Open Monday to Saturday 6am – 6pm, Sunday 6am – 1pm. Review by Kate Antonas

ຮ້ານ Le Banneton

ການໄປຢ້ຽ ມຢາມຮ້າ ນ Le Banneton ເຊິ່ງ ມີ ສ ະເຫນ່ຄ ວາມງາມແບບ ສະໄຫມ ເປີ ຊ ຽນ ຢູ່ທີ່ວ ຽງຈັນ ນັ້ນ ຈະເປັ ນ ສະຖານທີ່ທີ່ທ່າ ນ ຈະໄດ້ຊິ ມ ກາເຟຊັ້ນລົດຊາດດີ, ອາຫານແຊບ, ພົບປະກັບຫມູ່ເພື່ອນ ແລະ ເພີດເພີນ ໄປກັບບັນຍາກາດຮ້ານເຂົ້າຈີ່ແບບພື້ນບ້ານ. ເຂົ້າຈີ່ ແລະ ເຂົ້າຫນົມທຸກຊະນິດ ແມ່ນຖືກອົບແບບສົດໆ.ສຳ�ລັບ ເມນູອາຫານ ເຊົ້າ ແມ່ນ ເຂົ້າ ຈີ່ທີ່ເ ອົ າ ອອກຈາກເຕົ າ ອົບ ມາໃຫມ່ໆ ທາດ້ວ ຍເບີ ແລະ ແຢມຫມາກໄມ້ກວນ. ສໍາລັບອາຫານທ່ຽງ ຕ້ອງລອງຊິມເນີຍແຂງນົມແກະ ແລະ ເຂົ້າຈີ່ປະສົມຜັກຫົມ. ສຳ�ລັບເມນູຊີ້ນຮ້ານທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ແມ່ນເຫມາະສົມສຳ�ລັບການແບ່ງປັນ ແລະ ຍັງມີ ອາຫານທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ທີ່ສາມາດຊື້ກັບໄປເຮືອນໄດ້. ຮ້ານ Le Banneton ຖະຫນົນ ນົກແກ້ວກຸມານ BP 568, ບ້ານ ມີໄຊ, ໂທລະສັບ: 021 217 321. ເປີດທຸກວັນ, ວັນຈັນຫາເສົາ ຕັ້ງແຕ່ 6 ໂມງເຊົ້າ – 6 ໂມງແລງ, ສຳ�ລັບວັນອາທິດ ຕັ້ງແຕ່ 6 ໂມງເຊົ້າ – 1 ໂມງແລງ.

41


eat

LISTING

TAMARIND RESTAURANT : Lao. $$$ Tamarind specialises in helping diners explore and learn about Lao cuisine and the traditions associated with it. Enjoy sampling platters or something from the a la carte menu with explanations and demonstrations from helpful staff and the Nam Khan River as a picturesque backdrop. If you’re happy to be guided by the chef try one of the famed specialised feasts choices include Traditional Lao Fish Barbeque, The Adventurous Lao Gourmet and Luang Prabang Family Dinner. Ban Wat Sene on the banks of the Nam Khan River, 071 213128, Mon-Sat 11am-9pm, www.tamarindlaos.com TAMNAK LAO RESTAURANT :

Lao. $$ A family-run restaurant which delivers delicious authentic and homely Lao cuisine. The in-house cooking school means the staff know their stuff, so don’t be afraid to ask questions. Try the crispy bamboo shoots stuffed with pork and vegetables or the ubiquitous Luang Prabang sausage, both are done very well here. All dishes are made fresh to order which can leave a little lead in time but it’s well worth it so have a drink, sit back and relax. Sakarinne Road, 071 212239, 8.30am–10.30am, lunch 11am–3pm, dinner 5pm–11pm, 7 days, www.tamnaklaos.net

New in Town

Chanmaly Café Head out of the city centre and over towards Wat Sokpaluang to find Vientiane’s newest café-restaurant. Opened by French natives Mathieu and Caroline in mid-October this year, Chanmaly is a little different than your average eatery.

Tamnak Lao

PAKSE

LAN KHAM NOODLE HOUSE : Lao. $ Attached to the Lan Kham

Hotel this noodle house is considered famous around these parts. Particularly popular with locals for breakfast – you may have to fight for a spot – Lan Kham consistently produces huge steaming bowls of noodle soup accompanied by heaped plates of fresh herbs and greens. Cheap and tasty, having this on your doorstep would be reason enough to stay at the neighbouring guest house. Street 13, Lakmeaumg Village, 6.30am–1pm, 7 days

LE PANORAMA : Lao/International. $$ As the name might suggest

this leafy rooftop terrace, perched on the top floor of the Hotel Pakse, has the best views in town. Diners can take their pick from a range of cuisines including Lao, Thai, French and pizza. No matter what you’re eating the fact remains Le Panorama is the place to sit back, relax and take in a glorious sunset in Pakse, chilled Beerlao in hand optional. Street 5, Bane Watlouang, 031 212131, www.hotelpakse.com

NADAO : French/Lao. $$ A great find in Pakse, Nadao offers fresh and

flavoursome French bistro fare and traditional Lao dishes in a fine dining atmosphere. A little out of the city centre, its location hasn’t stopped locals and visitors alike from flocking to experience some of the best gourmet dining in southern Laos. The service is faultless and the owner/chef will almost always be happy to suggest something from his repertoire. Near the Japanese Bridge (opposite the Champasak Grand Hotel), 021 213174

SAVANNAKHET

CAFÉ CHAI DEE : Japanese/Western. $ Fun little café housed in a

sunshine-yellow building on the main street of Savannakhet. Chai Dee serves up a mix of Japanese favourites including katsudon, sushi, cold noodle salad alongside fresh sandwiches and Thai curries. Cosy into a comfy armchair with a freshly brewed Lao coffee and a book from the in-house book exchange or lounge on the sunny terrace with an icy Chai Dee Cooler (lime, ginger, mint and honey). Occasional live music in the evenings. Free WiFi, book exchange. 1 Latsavongseuk Road, Lattanalansy Thai Village, 020 5988 6767, 8.30am–9.00pm, 7 days, www.cafechaidee.com

LIN’S CAFE : Asian/Café. $ A friendly tucked away eatery housed in a 1930s building complete with original art-deco tiles. Located in the heart of historic downtown this is the perfect place to while away the afternoon with a fresh Lao coffee (beans sourced from the Bolaven Plateau) and tasty Lao/Vietnamese fare. An upstairs gallery exhibits photographs of old Savannakhet. Free WiFi, tourist information, bicycle rental. Latsaphanit Road, Ban Xaiyaphoum Village, 020 9988 1630, 8.30am-8pm, 7 days, www.lincafe.netau.net 42

Firstly, Chanmaly moonlights (and daylights!) as a florist, so you can have that special flower arrangement made while you eat. Ordering a bouquet from Caroline, the in-house flower expert is easy and insightful, and you can pop back the next day to collect if you’re in a hurry. They also organise flowers for corporate events too. Secondly, this restaurant has perhaps one of the most chilled vibes in the city. And I don’t mean just good music and a comfy setting. At night, why not play petanque inside? Shoot darts at the board from a blowpipe? Or sit down for a game of Trivial Pursuit? All of course, if you want to. Otherwise, just recline back with a coffee or wine, enjoy the free Wi-Fi and catch up with friends. So, the menu deserves a little attention too. The food is a mix of many true European dishes. They’ve got speciality

BBQ meat and seafood such as mouthwatering beef and chicken burgers, or try the scallops with rice and veg. The feta-cheese pasta salad is to die for and is among one of many salad choices. For dessert, get stuck into a chocolate brownie, frozen raspberries in chocolate sauce or the old time favourite, fresh apple tart. The menu changes weekly and is chalked up on the walls of the outdoor terrace. In the future, they’ll be selling churros con chocolate on the street and for me, that’s reason enough to get down there. Wooden floors, white interior, a big ‘ol book shelf and a contemporary spacious eating area make Chanmaly a very different vibe to what we’re used to. Chanmaly Café 278 Sokpaluang Rd 020 583 46410 Tue-Sat 11am-10pm Sun brunch 10am-3pm www.facebook.com/ chanmalyrestaurant Review by Ian Lacey

ຈັນມາລີ ຄາເຟ

ຈັນ ມາລີ ຄາເຟ ບໍ່ແ ມ່ນ ເປັ ນ ພຽງແຕ່ຮ້າ ນອາຫານທີ່ໃ ໝ່ອ່ຽ ມໃນວຽງຈັນ ເທົ່າ ນັ້ນ , ແຕ່ຍັງ ເປັ ນ ສວນ ດອກໄມ້. ສະຖານທີ່ໃ ຫ້ບັນ ຍາກາດເໝື ອ ນດັ່ງ ທ່າ ນນັ່ງ ຢູ່ໃ ນສວນດອກໄມ້ ທີ່ຈັດ ແຕ່ງ ເປັ ນ ພິ ເ ສດໃນ ຂະນະທີ່ກຳ�ລັງນັ່ງຮັບປະທານອາຫານ! ຮ້ານອາຫານແຫ່ງນີ້ ອາດເປັນຮ້ານອາຫານທີ່ໃຫ້ບັນຍາກາດ ທີ່ ເຢັນສະບາຍທີ່ສຸດໃນເມືອງ ແລະ ທ່ານຍັງສາມາດຫຼີ້ນ ເກມໝາກດາມ, ຕີບູນ ແລະ ໂຍນລູກດອກ ໄດ້ ຂ້າງໃນຮ້ານ. ຮ້ານມີເມນູ ບາບີຄວ ິ ແລະ ອາຫານທະເລທີ່ພເິ ສດ ເຊັ່ນວ່າ: ຊີ້ນນໍ້າຕົກ ແລະ ເບີເກີ້ໄກ່. ພາສຕາ ສະລັດ ເຝດຕາຊິດ ແມ່ນເມນູເດັດ ແລະ ເປັນໜຶ່ງໃນຫຼາກຫຼາຍເມນູສະຫຼັດທີ່ທ່ານສາມາດເລືອກ. ສຳ�ລັບຂອງຫວານ, ທ່ານສາມາດເດຶ່ມດຳ�ກັບ ຊອກໂກແລັດ ບຣາວນີ, ສະຕໍເບີລແ ີ ຊເຢັນໃນນໍ້າເຊື່ອມ ຊອກໂກແລັດ ຫຼື ເມນູທີ່ ເປັນທີ່ນຍ ິ ົມຕະຫຼອດການກໍ່ຄເື ຂົ້າໝົມຊອດໃສ້ກວນແອບເປີ. ຈັນມາລີ ຄາເຟ 278 ຖະໜົນໂສກປ່າຫຼວງ 020 583 46410 ເປີດວັນຄານ-ວັນເສົາ, ເວລາ 11 ເຊົ້າ-10 ແລງ ສຳ�ລັບ ວັນອາທິດເປີດສຳ�ລັບ ອາຫານທ່ຽງ 10 ເຊົ້າ-3 ແລງ www.facebook.com/chanmalyrestaurant


drink

LISTING

CAFÉS

VIENTIANE

CAFÉ NOMAD : Café. A hidden, hip little gem perched on a bustling intersection, Café Nomad is a popular haunt for office workers, embassy staff and those in the know. Their straightforward menu of coffee, juices, paninis and cakes may be small, but it’s all executed extremely well. Pull up a retro armchair on the cosy upper floor and tuck into a signature pressed toastie with a fizzy homemade gingerade. Free W i-Fi, public pc/ printer/scanner. 1-342 Dongpalanthong, Sisattanak, 020 54349977, Mon-Fri 8.30am–7pm, Sat and Sun 9am–6pm, www.facebook.com/cafenomad.lao COMMON GROUNDS CAFÉ & BAKERY : Café/Mexican. This family

friendly café is the perfect place to kick back in a comfy armchair and refuel with a coffee and homemade cake while the kids enjoy the outdoor playground. The kitchen specialises in light, fresh fare including falafel stuffed pitas, crisp salads and tasty burritos. Their organic coffee is sourced from Saffron in Luang Prabang which supports farmers to grow coffee instead of opium, so you won’t feel too guilty settling in for a second latte. Free Wi-Fi. Rue Chao Anou, 021 255057, Mon-Sat 7am–8pm, www.facebook. com/commongroundslaos

JOMA BAKERY CAFÉ : Café/ Western. A name synonymous with the Vientiane café scene, each of Joma’s three Vientiane shopfronts provides tasty, fresh eats and organic fair trade coffee in a cosy, coffeehouse atmosphere. The friendly staff and speedy service make Joma a popular choice for those on-thego, while others tend to linger awhile over breakfast, lunch or any of the delicious inhouse baked goods. Free Wi-Fi, delivery. Joma Namphou: Th. Setthathilath, Joma Phonthan: Th. Dongpalane, Joma That Luang: cnr Singha Rd/Nongbone Rd, delivery: 021 254333, 7am–9pm, 7 days, www.joma.biz

Joma

NAKED ESPRESSO : Café. A popular place for a caffeine hit, this light filled café serves up some of the best brew in town. Naked Espresso is all about a combination of fine Arabica beans sourced from Southern Laos and Northern Thailand, well-trained baristas, friendly service and a worldclass espresso machine. Light bites include breakfasts, sandwiches and tempting macaroons which sit nicely alongside fresh juices and smoothies. A loyalty card will score you a free coffee after ten cups. Free Wi-Fi. Dongpalan Road, 021 454631, Tue-Fri 7am–5pm, Sat-Sun, 8am–5pm, www. nakedespressocafe.com

NOY’S FRUIT HEAVEN

: Shakes/ Café. A cute and colourful hangout that is popular with travellers, Noy and her team serve up fresh and fast fruit shakes and juices in a medley of tropical combinations. If you’re after something you can sink your teeth into, Noy’s is great for flavoursome sandwiches, wraps and burgers – try the falafel pita stuffed with fresh salad and feta. 60/2 Rue Hengboun, 7am–9pm, 7 days

TRUE COFFEE : Café. The Vientiane flagship of the popular Thai chain has the slick, western-style coffee house vibe down perfectly. But comfy sofas and speedy WiFi aside, the coffee here is excellent and comes in a myriad of piping hot and icy cold variations. Situated in the heart of downtown Vientiane True Coffee is perfect for a quick caffeine hit on-the-go or a lengthy escape from the daily grind with one of their delicious selection of sweet treats. 111 Setthathirath Road, close to Nam Phu Fountain, 044 253338, Mon-Sun, 8am-8pm

LUANG PRABANG

LE CAFÉ BAT VAN SEN : Café. Sitting pretty on the main street of tranquil Luang Prabang this elegant café-cum-restaurant combines the home-grown ingredients and cuisine of sister bistro L’Éléphant Restaurant with lighter café-style fare including a selection of delectable pastries. Housed in a light and airy colonial-style building Le Café Ban Vat Sene is the perfect place to relax with a newspaper, coffee and croissant and watch the world go by. Free Wi-Fi. Sakarine Road, 071 252482, 7am–10pm, 7 days, www.elephant-restau.com/ cafebanvatsenefr.html Ethnic Foods! - LE PATIO CAFÉ : Lao/Café. Housed in the grounds of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre this intimate eatery offers a range of dishes from northern Lao ethnic minorities, making it the perfect stop after immersing yourself in Lao culture next door. For those after Western fare there is also a selection of French tarts, quiches and baguettes. Located at the base of Phou Si Hill patrons will enjoy a unique vantage point of this distinctive attraction. Free Wi-Fi. Ban Khamyong, 9am-5pm, 7 days, www.elephant-restau.com/ lepatiocafe.html

THE SILK ROAD CAFÉ : Lao. Bringing

an east meets west philosophy to the kitchen the Silk Road Café combines regional flavours, local ingredients and ideas from cuisines the silk road passed through. Standouts include light eats like pork filled lemongrass and eggplant tempura bites. Set against a backdrop of mountains and the Mekong River this open air café is housed on the grounds of the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre making it the perfect spot to grab coffee and a bite after an on-site weaving workshop or demonstration. Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, Ban Saylom, 071 212597, 8am–5pm, 7 days, www. ockpoptok.com

Editor’s Pick

April 12

This chic restaurant and bar has been open in Vientiane for just a short while, but it is already attracting a dedicated crowd of regulars looking to enjoy a drink and its perched position for a Mekong sunset. April 12, located across from Don Chan Palace Hotel on Fa Ngum Road, is one of a few city bars that offer a sizeable selection of drinks and quality food outside of the downtown area. Opened by Dalie in December 2012, April 12 treads the middle ground between all-out bar and fashionable restaurant, meaning you have the ability to choose exactly what you want from your night out. The interior is wide and spacious with a high roof, and is therefore ideal for everything from birthday celebrations to corporate events. Indeed, this space has already been used for engagement parties and the recent visit of Lord Puttnam, the renowned English film producer. The real highlight however is the rooftop terrace which gives a sterling view over the Mekong River, and if you’re lucky, the chance of catching one of those inimitable Lao sunsets. As for the menu, let’s start with the drinks. There are several imported beers such as

Hoegaarden, Beck’s and Leffe, while the cocktails take in the Mojito, Mai Tai, Cosmopolitan and Pina Colada. International whiskies such as Ballantine, Hennessy and Jameson and a wide variety of other spirits are all stocked for your perusal behind the bar. The food is also superb. They do a special Caramel Pork Belly, Beef wrapped in Wild Betel Leaf, a selection of salads and a mean Tenderloin Steak, amongst others. The menu has many Vietnamese options if that’s your thing, and a few dishes that cater for the vegetarian in us. Oh, and one more thing. On Wednesday nights the terrace in converted into an outdoor cinema, showing some of their latest movies. Check out their Facebook page to see the upcoming films. Get There April 12 Fa Ngum Rd, across from Don Chan Palace +856 209 6204135 w w w. f a c e b o o k . c o m / a p r i l 1 2 . restaurant

12 ເມສາ ຫຼື ແອບ​ເປີ ທະ​ເວ​ວ

ພາຍໃນກວ້າງ ແລະ ອະລັງກາ​ນ ມີຫຼັງຄາສູງ ແລະ ໄດ້ກາຍ ເປັ ນ ຄວາມສົມ ບູ ນ ແບບສຳ�ລັບ ທຸ ກ ສິ່ງ ນັບ ແຕ່ ງານສະຫຼອງ ວັນ ເກີ ດ ໄປຈົນ ເຖິ ງ ການຈັດ ງານຂອງບໍ ລິ ສັດ ຂະໜາດໃຫຍ່. ຈຸ ດ ເດັ່ນ ຕົວ ຈິ ງ ແມ່ນ ລະບຽງດາດຟ້າ ທີ່ເ ປັ ນ ບ່ອ ນ ໃຫ້ວິ ວ ອັນງົດງາມຂອງແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງ ນະ​ທີ່​ແຫ່ງ​ນີ້​ທ່ານ​ຈະໂຊກດີ​ທີ່​ໄດ້​ ດີເຫັນຕາເວັນຕົກດິນ​ເຊິ່ງມີ​ຄວາມງາມຈົນທ່ານບໍ່ສາມາດລືມໄດ້ ອີກແຫ່ງໜຶ່ງໃນປະເທດລາວ. ມີ ເ ບຍ ແລະ ເຫຼົ້າ ແວັ ງ ນຳ�ເຂົ້າ ຈາກຕ່າ ງປະເທດຫຼາກຫຼາຍ ຊະນິ ດ , ພ້ອ ມດ້ວ ຍຄອກເທວ ແລະ ເຫຼົ້າ ປະເພດຕ່າ ງໆ. ມີ ລ າຍການອາຫານຫວຽດນາມອັນ ພິ ເ ສດ ແລະ ອາຫານ ທີ່ເປັນທີ່ນຍ ິ ົມຂອງລາວ ແລະ ໃນຄ່ຳ�ຄືນວັນສຸກທ່ານກໍຈະສາມາດ ອິ່ມເອີບກັບສິ່ງເຫຼົ່ານີ້ ຂະນະດຽວກັນກໍຈະມີການສາຍຮູບເງົາຢູ່ ດາດຟ້າ. 12 ເມສາ ຫຼື ແອບ​ ​​ ເປີ ທະ​ເວ​ວ (April 12) ຖະໜົນຟ້າງຸ່ມ ເຊິ່ງໜ້າກັບ ດອນຈັນພາເລດ +856 209 6204135 www.facebook.com/april12.restaurant

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drink

LISTING

PAKSE

JAZZY BRICK :

Located in the heart of coffee country, this is the place to sample a cup of locally grown organic brew. An extensive menu offers a mix of Lao, Thai and American eats, but their distinct Single Origin Coffees are the main drawcard. Beans and grinds are sold to takeaway. Free Wi-Fi. Highway 13 South (opposite Sang Aloon Hotel), 031 214791, 7am–9pm, 7 days, www.bolavenfarms.com

Bar. With its exposed brickwork, moody lighting and distinct vintage-look decor The Jazzy Brick exudes effortless cool. The friendly staff make a mean cocktail and can usually make a recommendation from the extensive menu and the wine list is welledited. Large groups will want to head upstairs to the high-ceilinged loft but smaller parties or couples can commandeer the cosy space in the far reaches of the ground floor. Setthathirat Road (next to Wine95), 021 212489, 6pm-12am, 7 days, www.facebook.com/ jazzybricklao

SINOUK COFFEE & BAKERY : Café. A Lao legacy,

KHOP CHAI DEU : Bar/Lao/Western. Khop Chai Deu

BOLAVEN CAFÉS – PAKSE : Café/Asian/Western.

the well-known Sinouk Coffee empire has grown from its humble beginning as a small plantation in the 1990s to a 50 hectare estate and is turning heads across Asia. Pakse’s Sinouk Coffee and Bakery outpost serves up delicious cups of Sinouk’s signature organic blend which comes direct from the farm in Paksong to the table. The menu features a range of café fare including baked goods and blended coffees and shakes. Free Wi-Fi. Pakse centre, near the Tourism Office, www.sinouk-cafe.com

SAVANNAKHET

CAFÉ CHEZ BOUNE :

Café/Western. Drawing crowds for great European fare, impressive décor and charming atmosphere, Café Chez Boune is a popular spot for dining out in Savannakhet. Opt for something light such as a tasty bruschetta or baguette or if you’re looking for something more substantial the seared duck breast or tender imported steaks are a good choice. There’s also a solid Italian menu featuring pastas and a range of pizza combinations. Chaimeuang Road, Xayaphoum Village, 041 215190, 7am–10pm, 7 days, www.cafechezboune.com

BARS

VIENTIANE

BOR PEN YANG :

Bar/Western/Lao. This casual rooftop bar attracts an eclectic crowd of locals, seasoned expats and backpackers all who vie for a prime position along the balcony to watch the sunset over the Mekong River with a Beerlao nam kohn. Don’t lose your perch though, the views are still as impressive in the evening with the night market bustling below. Fa Ngum Road, Wat Chanh, 020 5580 8281, 11am–12am, 7 days

CHOKDEE CAFÉ & BELGIAN BEER BAR :

Bar/Belgian. This cosy pub, decorated with Tin Tin paraphernalia, is the place to come if you’ve got a hankering for Hoegaarden or any of the other 79 imported Belgian beers they keep. The kitchen produces hearty pub fare like steaks, sausages and mash and bite-size shares like mini cheeseburgers. Huge steaming pots of moules frites attract big crowds every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Free W iFi, beer specials on Thursdays. 32/4 Fa Ngum Road (along the Mekong Riverfront), 020 5610 3434, 10am-11pm, 7 days, www.chokdeecafe.com.

has hit the nail on the head with their slogan ‘the place where the world meets’, on any given night the oldest and arguably best located bar in Vientiane brings together locals, expats and travellers with refreshing drinks, good food and nightly live music. Housed in a reworked family home this downtown pillar is a must see while in town. Try to nab a spot on the upper level decking to enjoy the sultry Lao evenings. Free WiFi. 54 Setthathirat Road (next to Nam Phu fountain), 021 251564, 10am-11pm, 7 days, www.facebook.com/KhopChaiDeu

KONG VIEW RESTAURANT & BAR : Bar/Asian.

A contemporary Lao-style house with a leafy open air deck jutting right out to the Mekong River – this is the closest you’ll get the Mekong dry without hopping on a long boat. Enjoy a cocktail (groups can order jugs or towers) or a beer at sunset then while away the evening under the stars and colourful lanterns on the terrace nibbling on some of the selection of Lao and Thai-inspired share plates. 183 Souphanouvong Road, Hom 1 Ban Nongpanay, 021 520522, 12pm–12am, 7 days, www. kongview.com

Great Wines!-I-BEAM BAR : Wine/Tapas. Modern and casual this intimate bar combines an excellent drop of red or white with seasonal share plates like dainty croquettes, marinated vegetables and an inventive take on nachos con carne. The wine list features imports from South Africa, Australia, South America and France. I-Beam buzzes on Wednesday nights when ladies receive half price wine by the glass. Live jazz on Thursday nights. Free WiFi, lunch buffet daily. 88 Setthathirath Road, 021 254523, 11am–11pm, 7 days, www.facebook.com/ibeamvientiane 44

LUANG PRABANG 1861 BAR :

Cocktail. Capturing the essence of a traditional colonial café this light and airy salon-style cocktail bar welcomes patrons with classic well-worn chesterfields, an inviting terrace and a marble fireplace in cooler months. The bar draws on inspiration from its home at the Luang Say Residence with a heritage theme featuring displays of old-world maps of Laos, hunting excursions and botanical studies. Enjoy fine wines from around the world and a range of enticing cocktails prepared with top-shelf spirits in this sophisticated and ambient venue. 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, 071 260891, 9am–11pm, 7 days, www.luangsayresidence.com 1861 Bar

SENGTAWAN ROOFTOP BAR : Bar. Sitting pretty

on the top floor of the Sengtawan Riverside Hotel this rooftop terrace enjoys one of the most picturesque views of the Mekong River. Situated on the riverfront, a little out of the downtown action, this laidback spot is perfect for a low-key afternoon or evening of drinks and dinner. Ban Sithan Neua, 021 219362, Open 7 days, www.sengtawan.com

STICKY FINGERS : Bar/Western/Lao. Sticky’s, as it’s

more affectionately known, is a long-time expat institution drawing big crowds for their legendary happy hour on Wednesday and Friday nights. The bartenders make a mean Tom Yum Martini which, refreshingly piquant, comes complete with a whole chilli garnish. The rest of the cocktail list is fun and fruity and bar snacks flow all night making Sticky’s the perfect place for a casual night out. More substantial meals are available like the tangy BBQ pork ribs. Free WiFi, delivery. 10/3 Rue Francois Ngin, 021 215972. Mon-Fri 5pm–11pm, Sat-Sun 10am–11pm

SUITE 21 COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE : Cocktail. A hip new nightspot serving up some of the best cocktails in town and in trendy mason jars no less. Try their lychee or passionfruit spin on the classic mojito and chill out with a flavoured shisha of which they have an extensive range of flavours. Suite21 also stocks a range of imported beer including the ever-elusive Corona chilled to perfection and done right with a wedge of lime. Free WiFi. Ban Phonesavang (between Star Pub and Sai Jai Restaurant), 020 781 31399, Tue-Sun 7.30pm–12.30am, www. facebook.com/Suite21Vientiane THE HIGHLAND RESTAURANT & BAR : Sports

I-Beam

WINE95 : Wine. Whether you’re after a full-bodied red or a dry white Wine95 is the last word in wine service in Vientiane. Upon entry it is evident these guys know their stuff with a slick, fully stocked cellar bar complete with the DiWine Service System guaranteeing a fresh drop in every glass. Keep up to date with their Facebook page for the latest on tastings and live music. Setthathirat Road (next to Phimphone Market), 020 555 02957, Mon-Sat 5pm–12am, www.facebook.com/wine95

bar. Casual and relaxed open-air sports bar with views of the Mekong River. Drawing huge crowds for rugby, Aussie football and soccer matches all broadcast live on big-screen televisions, the menu includes Lao, pizza and pub-style fare – perfect for ravenous sports fans. Khamkhong Road, Ban Khounta, 020 7759 4971, 12amlate, www.highlandbar.com

THE SPIRIT HOUSE : Bar/Lao/Western. Resembling an oversized version of its namesake, Spirit House is an inviting meeting point with a sprawling terrace looking the Mekong River. The cocktail list is extensive with quality liquors preferred, perfect for a sundowner paired with tasty Lao bar snacks. Free WiFi. Ban Phonesavang (between Star Pub and Sai Jai Restaurant), 7am–11pm, 7 days, www.thespirithouselaos.com

Live Entertainment! - HIVE BAR & RESTAURANT : Bar/American. This vibrant garden bar is best known

for its snappy cocktails, extensive beer and wine list and for serving up home style southern favourites. Grab a beer and try the mahogany smoked BBQ ribs or pulled pork sandwich. Bacon lovers will also rejoice as Hive boasts the best in South East Asia – the bacon satay is proof. Nightly live entertainment includes Ethnik; a live fashion show of ethnic minority costumes and hip hop performed by local b-boys. Bar Street, Ban Aphay, 020 5999 5370, Mon-Sat 7am–12am, Sun 10am–12am, www.hivebarlaos.com

ICON KLUB :

Cocktail. This cosy bohemian haunt attracts a creative crowd who take advantage of the regular live music and open mic poetry nights. Icon’s walls are adorned with vintage posters and film noir stills and punters are most likely to be seen sipping a brilliantly made cocktail (try the Bloody Mary or a dry martini) over a game of chess or retro board game. Upstairs a private cinema screens films on demand. Free WiFi. Siphouttabath Road, Ban Xiengmouan, 071 254905, 5pm–11.30pm, 7 days, www.iconklub.com

TANGOR :

Bar/Tapas. Contemporary chic meets colonial charm at this intimate gastro pub on Luang Prabang’s main stretch. Tangor specialises in impeccably crafted cocktails and a generous selection of local and imported beers and ciders. Market produce dictates the ever-changing menu of share plates but luckily for us their standout fish ceviche is a mainstay. Happy hour between 3pm and 6pm. House 63/6 Rue Susavangvong, 020 9560 7262, 11am–11pm, 7 days

UTOPIA : Bar/Lao/Western. Hidden on the lush banks of the Nam Khan river amongst charming tropical gardens and thatched decking Utopia has perfected laid back paradise. Patrons can languidly sip tropical cocktails on the cushioned terrace watching the river go by, play a board game with neighbours or party into the night in a tiki hut. The kitchen serves up some of the best breakfast options in town, perfect for the morning after the night before. Ban Aphay, 020 2388 1771, 8am-11.30pm, 7 days, www.utopialuangprabang.com



drive

LISTING

VIENTIANE

CAR RENTAL

ASIA VEHICLE RENTALS AVR : Laos offers compact, economy, multi-purpose, SUV and minibus rentals. All vehicles are insured for third party and comprehensive cover for accident damages by AGL Insurance. Driving license, passport and credit card needed for rental. All vehicles are under five years old and serviced every 5,000km. Pakse branch also open. Settathirath Rd, Chanthabouly District, 021 223867, www.avrlaos.com Rental Choice! : PAUL TRADING SOLE

Mahindra Scorpio vehicles are available for around US$40 per day, while the Scorpio UV and Scorpio Pikup are other rental choices. Languages spoken include Lao, English, Korean and Tamil. Give a call to see what special offers are available for you or your company. Avenue 150, Ban Phonthong Sawat, M Chanthaburi, 021 265013, www. mahindra.com

RMA LAOS (FORD & LAND ROVER) : RMA Lao

provides all types of purpose-built vehicles at the highest brand standard levels, such as the ‘Qualified Vehicle Modifier’ (QVM) for Ford Motor Company and ‘Approved Vehicle Modifier’ (AVM) for Land Rover. They are the sole dealers for Ford and Land Rover in Laos, using genuine parts and offering comprehensive after-sales service. Unit 18, Thadeua Rd, Ban Bueangkhayong, Sisattanak District, 021 315376-8, www.laos.rmagroup.net

LUANG PRABANG VPS CAR RENTAL LAOS : Over 25 vehicles insured

through AGL are serviced and maintained by VPS. New and older models of sedan, pickup, SUV and vans are available for short term (1-7 days) and long term (1-12 months) for self-drive or with driver. 15/279 Thingkang Village, Sokpaluang Rd, Sisattank District, 020 555 99900, www.vpscarrental.com

CAR SALES

AUTO LAO : Auto Lao is a distributor of MercedesBenz automobiles and stocks B, C, E, G, M, R, and S Class cars. They issue original parts from Daimler with a six-month guarantee and can order original accessories on demand. Check out their website for info on current offers. 0309 Ban Oupmoung, ASEAN Rd, Sikhottabong District, 021 244472, www.autolao.com BOTHONG INTER : Bothong is an importer, exporter, buyer, and seller for several brands of vehicle. They import from Japan and the USA and have imported over one thousand cars so far. They also complete paperwork and tax for the vehicles. Take a look at their website for cars currently in stock. Ban Sibounheuang, 021 244363, www.bothonginter.com CHEVROLET LAOS :

Chevrolet opened their dealership in 2013 and they now present the Colorado, Captiva, Cruze, Spark and Sail models. The brand is experiencing a boom in sales at present and they plan to open another dealership in Pakse very soon. Visit the 5,000 square metre showroom to inspect the vehicles. Unit 19, Ban Nongdeuang, ASEAN Rd (T2), 021 921888, www.chevrolet-lao.com

HYUNDAI LAOS : From the Centennial to the Genesis,

to the Sonata and Accent, Hyundai Laos has a huge selection of cars and bigger vehicles – such as the popular Santa Fe – on offer. They’ve also got the Grand Starex people carrier on show. Call in to check out the latest models and explore financing options. 23 Singha Rd, Saysettha District, 021 455075, www.hyundai.com.la

46

KIA MOTORS : The Kia brand in Laos is now supported

by a large showroom on the T2 road and offers customers a chance to view their Picanto, Rio, Cerato, Optimo and other models. Family cars to sleek city-style are all laid out for viewing and test drives. Check out the Kolao motorbikes also available in the shared premises. Ban Phonesadt Phonekheng, Saysettha District, 021 450561, www.kiaglobal.com/la/closed/index.htm

Buying Pick! : LAO TOYOTA SERVICE

Passenger vehicles such as the Camry, Corolla and Yaris are available, while the 4WD Fortuner is stocked. Toyota pick-ups, as well as the larger bus and minibuses are also for sale. Very worthwhile to check out their newly launched Vios, which has just entered the market in Laos and is bound to be a huge hit. 97 Thong Khan Rd, Chanthabouly District, 021 216823-4, www.laotoyotaservice.com

MANIGNOM AUTO GROUP : Manignom Auto Group is a leading car import company and specialises in the import of new and used vehicles from around the world. Some makes they bring to the country include Mercedes-Benz, Honda, Toyota, Acura, B M W, L e x u s , N i s s a n , a n d H u m m e r. 1 0 5 - 6 Thongkhankham Rd, Chanthabouly District, 021 252222, www.mas-autolao.com NEW CHIP XENG : Honda Motorbikes and Scooters are for sale through the official dealers, New Chip Xeng. The bikes include the ever popular Wave, the Honda Scoopy and Honda Click. Larger, off-road bikes can be ordered. Suphanouvong Rd, Ban Wattayaithing, Sikhottabong District, 021 513050, www.newchipxeng. com PAUL TRADING SOLE CO LTD : These are the only distributors of Mahindra automobiles in Laos. They offer the Mahindra Scorpio/XUV500/Genio and Pikup. Visit their showroom or give a call to find out more about the wide selection of vehicles on offer. Avenue 150, Ban Phonthong Sawat, M Chanthaburi, 021 265013, www.mahindra.com

CAR RENTAL

LAO ASIA VEHICLES CO LTD : A private company based in Luang Prabang, Lao Asia Vehicles manages over 60 cars and has special offers for rentals over three days in the city. The vehicle types are sedan, station wagon, SUV, and various capacity minivans. Ban Saylom, 071 212733, www.laoasiavehicles.com

CAR SALES RMA LAOS :

RMA has a branch in Luang Prabang which holds the bestselling Ford and Land Rover vehicles. The Ford Taurus, Everest and Ranger are available to inspect and showroom staff are ready to answer any questions regarding comfort, reliability and specs. Ban Viengmai, Road 13 North, Luang Prabang District, 071 260423, www.laos.rmagroup.net, www. laofordcity.com

PAKSE

CAR RENTAl

LAOS GO CAR RENTAL : Laos Go offers cars, minivans, buses and luxury vehicles in the south of the country. All automobiles are insured through AGL. Prices vary dependent on the make and model o f v e h i c l e a n d s e r v i c e s a re t a i l o re d t o w a rd s travel agencies and individuals. Drivers available for hire also. Thaluang Village, Pakse, 031 214173, www.laosgocarrental.com

CAR SALES

RMA LAOS : The Pakse branch of RMA does all the standard vehicles that are on offer in Vientiane. They stock Ford and Land Rover cars and pick-ups, using only genuine parts to ensure longer running. Call to their office to see the range on offer and speak to a sales rep. Ban Khaen Kheung, Road 13 South, Pakse District, 031 253162, www.laofordcity.com


BEHIND THE WHEEL

Sleek Perfection

The new TOYOTA VIOS

The Lao car market has been treated to somewhat of a spate of new vehicle arrivals recently, but none so anticipated as the Toyota Vios. Upgraded considerably since the last Vios model became available to the Southeast Asian market in 2007, the great things we’ve come to expect from Toyota are delivered with this arrival.

ຄວາມເງົາງາມທີ່ຫຼູຫຼາ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າ ວີອອສ ລຸ້ນໃໝ່ ຕະຫຼາດລົດໃຫຍ່ຢູ່ລາວ ໄດ້ຮັບການນຳ�ສະເໜີລົດລຸ້ນໃໝ່ໆ ຫຼາຍລຸ້ນເຂົ້າມາໃນມໍ່ໆນີ້, ແຕ່ໂຕໂຍຕ້າວີອອສ ເປັນລົດທີ່ມີຄວາມໂດນເດັ່ນທີ່ສຸດ. ໂຕໂຍຕ້າກ່າວວ່າ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າວີອອສ ແມ່ນໄດ້ຮັບການອອກແບບຕາມແບບລົດສະປອດ ທີ່ຫຼູຫຼ າທັງ ຂ້າ ງໃນ ແລະຮູ ບ ໂສມຂ້າ ງນອກ, ແລະຍັງ ເປັ ນ ລົດ ນຳ�ໃຊ້ໃ ນຕົວ ເມື ອ ງ ຫຼືລົດຄອບຄົວໄດ້ດທ ີ ີ່ດີ ແລະ ມີຄວາມຄ່ອງຕົວ, ມີເສັ້ນສາຍການອອກແບບທີ່ເງົາງາມເຊິ່ງ ສາມາດສະກົດສາຍຕາຜູ້ພົບເຫັນ. ມີ ກ ານເພີ້ມ ແຜ່ນ ກັນ ນໍ້າດ້າ ນໜ້າ ,ພ້ອ ມມີ ພື້ນ ທີ່ເ ກັ ບ ເຄື່ອ ງທີ່ກ້ວ າງຂວາງ ແລະບໍ່ພ ຽງ ເ ທົ່າ ນັ້ນ ມັນ ຍັງ ມີ ກ າ ນ ປ ະ ສົມ ປະ ສາ ນ ດ້າ ນຮູ ບລັກ ແ ລະ ກາ ນອອ ກ ແ ບ ບ ທີ່ມີ ເອກະລັກຂອງວີອອສ. ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນໄດ້ຮັບການນຳ�ສະເໜີ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າວີອອສລຸ້ນໃໝ່ໃນເດືອນຕຸລາ ແລະ ເປັນທີ່ຕື່ນຕາຕື່ນໃຈຂອງຄົນມັກລົດ. ໂຕໂຍຕ້າວີອອສ ເປັນລົດທີ່ມຮ ີ ບ ູ ແບບແລະເອກະລັກ ສະເພາະ, ໃນຂະນະດຽວກັນ,ຄວາມສະດວກສະບາຍໃນການໃຊ້ສອຍກໍ່ບໍ່ເປັນຮອງເລີຍ.

Toyota says the car is based on a ‘luxury-sport’ design inside and out, but the quality this machine holds is in its versatility. It can easily be a city car or family vehicle and exudes flowing, sleek design lines that are visually catching. Get out of the city, handle curvy roads or take it off the main highways, the Vios handles. A contemporary dashboard has been added, while storage space is enlarged and yet blends right into the form and features of the Vios interior. There’s a kick in it too. Variable Valve Timing with Intelligence (VVT-i) engine technology generates strong acceleration but maintains fuel economy. As family car has already been mentioned, what makes that definition? Well, ABS braking and SRS airbags exist with a high tensile structure creating enhanced protection in any accident that may occur. Vientiane was treated to the grand presentation of the new Toyota Vios in October and to rapturous excitement amongst the motoring community. It’s a car with attitude and style, where comfort doesn’t come second. Check out Vientiane’s Lao Toyota Service to see the car itself and test its capabilities. Lao Toyota Service 97 Thong Khan Rd, Chanthabouly District 021 216823-4 www.laotoyotaservice.com

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LISTING

VIENTIANE

COPE VISITOR CENTRE :

Museum. Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise, or COPE, is a locally run non-profit working with partners to provide rehabilitation services for Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) survivors and other people with disabilities across Laos. The COPE Visitor Centre houses a free permanent exhibition about UXO in Laos, stories from survivors and information on the important services provided by COPE. Interactive displays, excellent documentaries and imagery provide a thought-provoking experience to visitors. There is an opportunity to support COPE through the gift shop or a donation. Centre of Medical Rehabilitation, Khouvieng Road, 021 218427, 9am–6pm, 7 days, www.copelaos.org

FROM FARM TO MARKET : Tour. Local emerging tour guides Tuk Tuk Safari specialise in small group educational and interactive tours of Vientiane and surrounds. On this tour patrons will visit the Panyanivej Eco Rice and Fish Farm to have a hand at traditional Lao fishing, rice planting and other farm activities before using fresh farm ingredients to cook a traditional Lao lunch. A visit to a fresh market will explore the diversity of Lao produce and traditional ingredients. Tours start mid-November 2013, 10% discount for first month of operation. 020 5433 3089, Tours run daytime from Monday to Saturday, www.tuktuksafari.com HOUEY HONG VOCATIONAL TRAINING CENTRE FOR WOMEN : Class/Craft. The Centre

LAO DISABLED WOMEN’S DEVELOPMENT CENTRE : Tour/Craft. A local non-profit run by women

with disabilities for women with disabilities. In a beautiful setting near the Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge the Centre is a hive of activity with training programmes including sewing and needlework, social development and women’s civil rights and creative projects like paper making, weaving and sewing. Visitors can have a tour of the centre, buy locally-made handicrafts including accessories, fashion items and homewares and learn all about how the handicrafts are made. Thadeua Road, Hadsayfong District, 021 812282, 8.30am–5pm, 7 days, www. laodisabledwomen.com

provides training and employment for disadvantaged Lao women in the areas of natural dyeing, weaving, tailoring and administration. Visitors can tour the facilities and take part in traditional dyeing and weaving classes creating a unique textile piece to take home, the cost of which includes transfers, lunch and provides direct support to the Centre. The gift shop sells stylish products made onsite by staff and trainees. Lane 19, Houey Hong Village, 021 560006, Mon-Sat 8.30am–12pm, 1.30pm–4.30pm, www.houeyhongcentre.com

I:CAT GALLERY : Gallery. A bright and inviting gallery

space featuring a revolving programme of engaging exhibitions from local artists working in a range of mediums. A collection of original prints, art books, photography, paintings and handmade cards are permanently for sale in the gallery space and past installations and events have included visual art, music, poetry, film and fashion. Keep up to date with events like regular film screenings and exhibition openings through i:Cat’s Facebook page. 230-231 Thanon Settathirath, Ban Simeuang, 020 7783 9674, Mon-Fri 6pm–8pm, Sat-Sun 1pm-6pm, www.facebook.com/icatgallery

i:Cat Gallery

Lao Disabled Women's Development Centre

LAO EXPERIENCES COOKING CLASS AND FOOD TOURS : Class/Tour. Join friendly host Nook

as she teaches you to cook popular Lao dishes with fresh ingredients and traditional methods. These fun and interactive classes are held in a leafy garden kitchen by the Mekong River, the perfect setting to throw together a tasty laap or mok pa (banana leaf steamed fish) all of which you’ll devour at the end of class. A skilled chef, Nook has cooked with Australian chef Luke Nguyen so she’s a bit of a celebrity around these parts. The additional tour of the largest fresh market in Vientiane is great for those new to Lao ingredients. Bookings at The Full Moon Café or via lao-experiences.com, 020 5569 9429. Classes and Food Tours conducted daily

COPE Centre

DAY TRIP TO NAM NGUM DAM : Tour. The perfect way to get back to nature while staying close to your base in Vientiane, Green Discovery Laos takes you to the Nam Ngum Resevoir. En route on this guided day-trip participants will get a first-hand look at Hmong village life to meet locals and visit the market before taking in the 11th century archaeological site of Van Xang. At the reservoir you’ll lunch on a floating restaurant and explore fishing villages and small islands by boat before returning to Vientiane. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com Nam Ngum Dam

LAO BOWLING CENTRE : Activity. A friendly place for a game of ten pin by day this unassuming venue is an evening hot spot with crowds flocking here once the regular haunts close. Get here in the early evening if you actually plan to get in a few rounds because by eight o’clock this joint is packed with locals having a laugh over Beerlao and interesting bowling techniques. But bor pen nyang, half the fun is kicking back with friends and waiting for a free lane. There are also snooker tables available for hire by the hour. Boulevard Khunbulom (near the National Stadium), 9am–late, 7 days

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iLao Experiences


A Stylish Budget Accommodation Option in Luang Prabang

The Ultimate Relaxation Hideaway FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT:

125 Unit 7, Bane Vixoun, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Tel: +856 (0) 71 212 642, +856 (0) 71 252 933 www.tropicaloasispark.com


See&Do

LISTING

LAO TEXTILES BY CAROL CASSIDY : Studio/

Gallery. Housed in a refurbished French colonial mansion Carol Cassidy’s Lao Textiles workshop, studio and gallery creates woven pieces of art. American-born Cassidy arrived in Laos in the 1980s and discovered a rich history of weaving and exquisite design motifs, shortly after she started Lao Textiles one of the first commercial weaving workshops in Laos. Specialising in 100% hand-woven silk Carol and the artisans she employs produce beautiful wall hangings, scarves, shawls and custom fabrics on display and for sale in the showroom. Nokeokhoumane Road (opposite Monument Books), 020 7770 2966, Mon-Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 8am–12pm, After hours visits by appointment only, www.laotextiles.com

Carol Cassidy Textiles

LIVE LAO FOR ONE DAY : Tour. Local emerging tour guides Tuk Tuk Safari specialise in small group educational and interactive tours of Vientiane and surrounds. On this guided tour patrons will get a taste of Lao life and traditions which visits a local silversmith, wet market and the COPE Visitor Centre. You will learn how to make mak beng and pasaat peung traditional temple offerings crafted from banana leaves and wax, then visit Wat Simeuang temple which is most popular with locals. A traditional lunch is provided. Tours start mid-November 2013, 10% discount for first month of operation. 020 5433 3089, Tours run daytime from Monday to Saturday, www.tuktuksafari.com MEKONG RIVER NIGHT MARKET : Market. Drawing hordes of tourists and locals to the riverside each evening you simply can’t miss the two rows of redtopped marques snaking along the waterfront mingling with smoky food stalls and mountainous balloon displays. The wares on sale may be aimed predominately towards tourists (think t-shirts and trinkets) but locals shop here too and there are plenty of bargains to be had. Possibly the most relaxed market in South East Asia haggling is acceptable but you won’t find pesky touts here with laidback vendors happy to let you peruse at your own leisure. Fa Ngum Road along the Mekong River promenade, 6pm–10pm, 7 days

SAOBAN CRAFTS : Craft. A treasure trove of handmade handicrafts created by over 300 artisans from villages across Laos. Meaning ‘village’ in Lao, Saoban creates fair trade opportunities for groups of rural weavers and artisans to develop capacity in areas such as technical training, management skills and connections to retail outlets. In their store you’ll find unique woven baskets and textiles, exquisite homewares and contemporary jewellery and accessories with most goods crafted from natural dyes, local bamboo and organically grown cotton and proceeds going back to the artist. 97/1 Chao Anou Road, Mon-Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 1pm–8pm, www.saobancrafts.com

VIENTIANE BYCYCLE : Tour. Explore Vientiane on

two wheels in either a guided half or full-day tour allowing you to uncover a different side to the city. You’ll follow the gentle curve of the Mekong River to explore nearby scenic villages and observe fishermen and local temples. Back in the city centre you’ll pass touristic highlights like glittering temples, the grand Presidential Palace, Patuxai and That Luang while also venturing off the beaten path to capture scenes of Lao daily life in sleepy residential areas. 020 5581 2337, Tours run daily 8am to 5pm, www. vientianebycycle.com

T’SHOP LAI GALLERY ‘LES ARTISANS LAO’: Gallery/Craft. A delightful gallery and crafts store featuring works from local and visiting artists and stocking a range of locally made natural cosmetics and botanicals products. The Les Artisans Lao range of organic skincare and beauty products is produced on-site and includes luscious body creams and soaps, all-natural repellents and aromatic oils – perfect and compact souvenirs to take home. Also on display is a selection of unique decorative items and handmade furniture some crafted from reclaimed materials. Vat Inpeng Street, 021 223178, Mon- Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 10am–6pm, www. artisanslao.com

Vientiane ByCycle

ADVERTISE WITH US! Night Market

MINISTRY OF SILK : Fashion. The flagship store of Laos’ first internationally recognised fashion house showcases locally designed ready-to-wear collections. Specialising in elegant, classic design Ministry of Silk offers expertly tailored daytime and evening garments for both men and women. In store customers can sip a complimentary wine or champagne while shopping and will also find a selection of accessories, jewellery and handbags. Visit quickly for exclusive summer sales until stocks last. 99/01 Nam Phou Square Place, 021 213776, 9am–9pm, 7 days, www.ministryofsilk.com 50

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LUANG PRABANG Elephant Village

Indulge in Luang Prabang’s Sustainable Tourism Words by Michelle Luehman

While we recognise Luang Prabang for its smorgasbord of cultural charm, the surrounding environment has a very different draw. Sustainable tourism is being encouraged and new holiday options are popping up all the time. Here we take a look at two popular choices.

Safari Tents in Rice Fields ELEPHANT VILLAGE : Tour. Get up close to magnificent pachyderms at this tourist destination operated by international specialists and volunteers who aim to rescue, protect and rehabilitate elephants in Laos. There are a myriad of enriching activities on offer for visitors both privately and in groups including thrilling elephant rides, bathing elephants in the Nam Kahn River, a basic mahout training course and feedings. You can also explore the grounds including the elephant rehabilitation centre and stay overnight in on-site accommodation, aptly named the Elephant Lodge. To book and for more information visit elephantvillage-laos.com. Tours run 7 days.

Kamu Lodge is a one of the most original travel experiences on offer in Asia. Nestled amongst rice fields and flanked by the majestic Mekong River, it offers a new experience for those yearning for the glories of travelling Asia in times past. Depart from Luang Prabang on the resort boat and after a three hour journey you arrive at an isolated Khmu community village which is very much the heart of your Asian safari.

Appletree Asia (www.appletree-asia. com) work with the village community to create this visually stunning and culturally stimulating holiday experience. The lodge boasts 25 Safari tents, all with their own bathrooms, a traditional bamboo dining room, and entertainment room. There is no direct electricity supply to the village or the lodge and to keep the environmental impact as low as possible, all electricity is generated through solar power. Each room has fans, lighting and hot water powered by solar energy. The safari tents are shipped in from Africa and they keep you cool, dry and mosquito free.

Water is supplied from the surrounding underwater springs and small rivers that are fed by the mountains. The water is filtered several times until it is clean and pure. You are free to be as active or relaxed as you see fit. Join in with the local village in their hunting and gathering activities, try your hand at the crossbow, or just be amazed at the skill of this hunting community. Learn all about life in the village, bathe with the children in the Mekong, and spend your days with the villagers. Here you can take in Lao village life and know that your stay is contributing to enhancement of village people. ExoFoundation has been set up by Apple Tree to support the project and contributions are welcome. Kamu Lodge also contributes USD$1 per person per trip to the village projects. Visit www.kamulodge.com for more information

ຄວາມ​ເພີດ​ເພີນ​ຢ່າງ​ສະບາ​ຍ​ໃຈກັບ​ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວ​ແບບ​ຍນ ື ​ຍົງ ຢູ່ຫລວງ​ພະ​ບາງ

ການຕັ້ງເ​ ຕັ້ນນອນຍາມຄໍ່າຄືນຢູ່ທ້ອງ​ທົ່ງນ ​າ ພັກ ​ຢູ່​ທີ່​ບ້າ ນ ​ພັກ ກ ະ ມຸ ແ ມ່ນ ​ຫນຶ່ງ ​​ໃ ນ ​ປ ະ ສົບ ​ກ າ ນ​ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວແບບດັ້ງ​ເດີ​ມອັນ​ຫນຶ່ງທີ່​ມີ​ຢູ່​ໃນ​ອາ​ຊີ. ບ້ານ​ພັກ​ ດັ່ງກ່າວປະກອບ​ດ້ວຍ​ເຕັ້ນ​ນອນ​ທັງ​ຫມົດ 25 ອັນເຊິ່ງທຸກ​ ອັນມີ​ຫ້ອງ​ນ້ຳ�​ໃນ​ຕົວ. ນ້ຳ�ທີ່​ເອົາ​ມາ​ຊົມ​ໃຊ້ແມ່ນ​ເອົາ​ມາ​ຈາກ​ ນ້ຳ�​ບໍ່ແລະແມ່​ນ້ຳ�​ນ້ອຍ​ອ້ອມ​ຂ້າງທີ່​ມາ​ຈາກ​ພ​ເູ ຂົາ. ທ່ານມີ​ອິດສະຫລະໃນ​ການ​ເຮັດ​ທຸກ​ກິດຈະກຳ�ຫລືພັກຜ່ອນ​ ຕາມ​ແບບ​ທີ່​ທ່ານ​ຕ້ອງການ. ມ່ວນ​ຊື່ນ​ໄປ​ກັບ​ຊາວບ້ານ​ໃນ​ ບໍລ​ເິ ວນ​ນັ້ນທີ່​ມ​ກ ີ ດ ິ ຈະກຳ�​ລ່າ​ສັດແລະຮີ​ດຄອງປະ​ເພນີ​ອື່ນໆ, ທ່ານສາມາດ​ລອງ​ຍງິ ​ທະນູ​ດ້ວຍ​ຕົວ​ທ່ານ​ເອງຫລືອາດ​ຈະມ່ວນ​ ຊື່ນ​ໄປ​ກັບ​ການ​ຊື່ນ​ຊົມ​ຄວາມ​ສາມາດ​ໃນ​ການ​ລ່າສັດ​ຂອງ​ ຄົນ​ຊມ ຸ ​ຊົນ​ດັ່ງກ່າວ​ນີ້ກໍ່​ໄດ້–ເບິ່ງລາຍ​ລະອຽດ​ເພີ່ມ​ເຕີມ​ໄດ້​ທີ່ www.kamulodge.com Elephant Village

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LISTING

LUANG PRABANG NIGHT MARKET : Market. A buzzing open air market that emerges on the main street at dusk. Here’s you’ll find hill-tribe traders peddling lamps, paintings, quilts, scarves, clothing, shoes and more. If all that shopping works up an appetite you’ll find several crepe and juice stalls lined along the Phou Si end of the markets. Keep your eyes peeled for a narrow laneway crammed with smoky food stalls running off the market stretch – this is the best place to grab a meat skewer on the go or settle in at one of the rickety share tables with a Beerlao. Sisavangvong Road. 5pm–11pm, 7 days

Indulge in Luang Prabang’s Sustainable Tourism

Up Close and Dirty

Just outside of Luang Prabang is a small hidden gem – The Living Farm. For a four hour immersion into the life of a rice farmer, this is a great way to understand a way of existence which is still central to the country Lao. The Living Farm began life as a thriving organic farm which produced fresh salad, vegetables and herbs for the hotels and restaurants of the city.

The 14 steps in the life of a sticky rice grain is a great way for a quick but comprehensive experience of this traditional life. You start with feeding the buffalo some salt, an essential treat for a healthy diet, and are quickly taken to an empty rice paddy to try your hand at driving the bullock and using the traditional one pronged plough.

The farm, just outside of Luang Prabang, is spread over seven hectares and has a leasing agreement with the seven families which own the land. The deal involved building projects, new housing, schooling support, work and wages and from this the concept of the Living Farm was born.

Carefully restored grounding stones all worked by hand with twine and wood pulleys makes you appreciate life here. The end of the tour is a treat with the old and beautifully carved sugar cane juicer, worked by hand. Every now and then when the going got tough you receive a helping hand from the guides.At the end of the tour sit and sample many of the tasty rice products readily available in the local shops.

Customer demand created a sustainable organic farm which includes rice fields complete with domestic buffalo, vegetable and herb gardens and the highly educational and historical journey through rice farming. The farm supports children to attend local schools and provides working opportunities to the older generation now retired and to the resident families.

The Living Farm is for everyone over 10 years of age. The farm caters for 2–20 people. Discover more about the Living Farm at www.livinglandlao.com

ການໃກ້ຊິດ ແລະ ມ່ວນຊື່ນກັບທຳ�ມະຊາດ ພຽງ​ແຕ່​ເດີນທາງ​ອອກ​ຈາກຕົວ​ເມືອງ​ຫລວງ​ພະ​ບາງພຽງ​ ເລັກ​ນ້ອຍ​ເທົ່າ​ນັ້ນທ່ານກໍ່​ຈະ​ພົບ​ກັບ​​​ເຂດອັນຍະມະ​ນີ​ ລ້ຳ�​ຄ່າ​ທີ່​ເຊື່ອ​ງຊ້ອນ​ຢູ່ນັ້ນ​ຄື: ທົ່ງ​ນາແຫ່ງຊີວິດຊີວາ.​ ສີ່​ຊົ່ວ​ໂມງຂອງ​ການ​ໃຊ້​ຊີວດ ິ ​ແບບ​ຊາວນາຢູ່​ທີ່​ໃຈກາງ​ ຂອງ​ປະ​ເທດລາວເປັນ​ຫົນທາງ​ດຽວ​ທີ່​ຈະ​ສາມາດ​ເຂົ້າ​ ໃຈ​ກ່ຽວກັບ​ການ​ດຳ�ລົງ​ຊວ ີ ດ ິ ​ແບບ​ຊາວນາຢ່າງແທ້​ຈງິ . ທ່າ ນຈະ​ເລີ່​ມຕົ້ນ ກິ ດ ຈະກໍ ​າດ້ວ ຍການ​ເອົ າ ​ເກື ອ ໃຫ້​ ຄວາຍກິນເຊິ່ງ​ເປັນການ​ໃຫ້​ອາຫານ​ທີ່​ເປັນ​ໂຫຍ​ດ​ແກ່​ ມັນ ແລະຈາກ​ນັ້ນ ​ທ່າ ນຈະ​ຖື ກ ພາໄປທີ່ທົ່ງ ນາທີ່​ເປົ່າ​ ຫວ່າ ງເພື່ອ ​ລອງ​ໄຖນາ​ແບບວິ ທີ ​ການພື້ນ ບ້າ ນດ້ວ ຍ​ ງົວ ແລະຄາດ​ໄຖ–ເບິ່ງ ​ລາຍ​ລະອຽດ​ເພີ່ມ ​ເຕີ ມ ​ໄດ້​ທີ່​ www.livinglandlao.com

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Night Market

OCK POP TOK LIVING CRAFTS CENTRE : Class/Craft. Take part in a fun hands-on workshop and learn traditional weaving and dying techniques from skilled Lao artisans at this handicrafts centre set in lush tropical gardens overlooking the Mekong River. A variety of classes suitable for a range of skill levels are on offer or you could visit the weaving centre for a free tour and observe weavers at their craft. The on-site shop (there are also two in town) sells a wide range of beautiful handmade textiles including scarves, wall hangings and homewares. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi Market), 071 212 597, 9am–5pm, 7 days, www.ockpoptok.com Ock Pop Tok


TAMARIND COOKING SCHOOL

: Class. This popular cooking class, run by the restaurant of the same name, has been schooling students in the art of laap for years. Participants will first check out ingredients at a local fresh market then head to Tamarind’s lake-side cooking school to cook and, more importantly, eat. The menu consists of a range of Lao classics including jeow spicy dipping sauces and Tamarind’s signature chicken and herb-stuffed lemongrass. To book and for more information visit tamarindlaos.com. Full day classes MonSat 9am–3pm, evening classes Mon-Fri 4pm–8.30pm

TRADITIONAL ARTS & ETHNOLOGY CENTRE : Museum/Craft. Housed in a renovated heritage building at the foot of Phou Si hill TEAC is a museum dedicated to the promotion of the culture and knowledge of Laos’ diverse ethnic communities. Several permanent and rotating cultural exhibitions showcase artefacts, traditional art and clothing of Lao ethnic groups and give insight into the diversity and richness of the country. The gorgeous museum shop which keeps handicrafts from village artisans is well worth a look. Guided tours available for an additional fee. Ban Khamyong (behind Dara Market), 071 253 364, Tue-Sun 9am–6pm, www.taeclaos.org

PAKSE

KOFFIE’S COFFEE WORKSHOP PAKSONG

: Tour. Explore Southern Laos’ renowned coffee country and see just how harvested beans make it your morning cup of Joe. You will visit Koffie’s own organic coffee plantation and farm when you’ll see the broadleaved arabica growing, picked then learn around the husking and drying processes. After lunch you’ll get hands-on in roasting arabica beans yourself and brew yourself a flavourful cup of aromatic java – you’ll get to take home your bag of roast too. Koffie speaks fluent English, German and Dutch. For more information visit paksong.info/laos_coffee_workshop.php, 020 2276 0439, coffee@paksong.info

Koffie's

SINOUK COFFEE RESORT : Garden. A must-see if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, Sinouk is a name synonymous with coffee in Laos. Surrounding the resort are palatial landscaped gardens which include coffee plants, rock gardens, a lake and waterfalls. Visitors can take their time and wander through the gardens or enjoy a signature locally grown cup of coffee from Sinouk’s nearby plantation in the pavilion restaurant or cafe. For more information visit www.sinoukcoffeeresort.com TREE TOP EXPLORER AT JUNGLE HOTEL PAKSONG : Tour. Green Discovery Laos lead an

unforgettable adventure in an unparalleled South East Asian mountain forest setting of Champassak province. This tour is not for the faint-hearted with zip-lining over gorges and waterfalls and breathtaking views from a canopy walkway leading to great fun in a stunning environment. Retire to the Jungle Hotel Paksong a cluster of private treehouses set amongst the lush forest. The ultimate experience in nature. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com

Highlight of Issue

Kuang Si Waterfall Tour The stepped and gushing Kuang Si Waterfall, Luang Prabang is one of the memorable sights frequently taken in by visitors to Northern Laos. And why not? Deep pools for swimming, a forested enclosure and the noise of thundering falls is a very special experience indeed. Khiri Travel is now offering some additional local options to not just experience the falls, but also the people and culture around.

can be involved as much as you like, from fishing and cooking, to lounging around and enjoying the countryside.

An easy trek leads you through the forests near the source of the falls, where you will visit a cave filled with Buddhas that was used for shelter during the Vietnam War. After learning about how people lived during that time, you will collect some plants and vegetables and prepare a lunch at a beautiful spot near a small stream.

You will also visit the Free the Bears enclosure and learn about the great conservation work this organisation is doing.

Locals will try to catch some fish and prepare lunch for you, including barbecued fish and pork as well as fresh vegetables cooked in bamboo and different dipping sauces. You

Join them and learn about their fishing techniques and this traditional way of hunting and food preparation! After the delicious lunch, trek down to Kuang Si waterfall, where you can take a refreshing dip in the water and relax within the stunning forest scenery.

The price is $78 per person. Included in the programme is return transport to and from your hotel, tour guide, food collection with a local family, lunch, the Buddha cave visit and a splash in the falls. Visit www.khiri.com/our-office/laos for more information or email laos@khiri.com

ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວ​ນ້ຳ�ຕົກຕາດກວາງ​ສີ ປະຈຸ ​ບັນ ​ນີ , ທ່າ ນສາມາດ​ທ່ຽ ວຊົມ ​ນ້ຳ�ຕົກ ຕາດກວາງຊີ ເ ຊິ່ງ ຢູ່​ໃກ້​ກັບ ​ຕົວ ​ເມື ອ ງ​ ຫລວງພະ​ບາງໃນ​ຮບ ູ ​ແບບ​ທີ່​ແຕກ​ຕ່າງ​ອອກ​ໄປ. ເລີ່​ມຕົ້ນດ້ວຍການຍ່າງບຸກປ່າເພື່ອ ທ່ຽວຊົມຖ້ຳ�​ພະ​ບາດຢູ່​ເທິງຍອດພູ, ຊ່ວຍ​ຊາວບ້ານ​ຈັບ​ປາ ​ແລະກະກຽມອາຫານ​ທ່ຽງ.​ ຫລັງ​ຈາກ​ນັ້ນຈຶ່ງໄປມ້ວນທ້າຍ​ຂອງ​ມື້​ດ້ວຍການກະໂດດ​ນ້ຳ�ຕົກຕາ​ດຫລິ້ນ ​ເຊິ່ງເປັນ​ ປະສົບການ​ທີ່​ຫາ​ຍາກ​ທີ່​ສດ ຸ . ລາຄາ​ແມ່ນ $78 ໂດ​ລາສະຫະລັດຕໍ່​ຄົນ, ລາຄາ​ດັ່ງກ່າວ ແມ່ນ​ລວມຄ່າພາຫະນະ​ ​ໄປກັບໂຮງແຮມຫາ​ສະຖານ​ທີ່​ທ່ອງ​ທ່ຽວ, ມີ​ຜູ້​ພາ​ທ່ຽວ,ໄປ​ຫາອາຫານຮ່ວມກັບ​ ຄອບຄົວຊາວບ້ານ, ກິນ​ອາຫານ​ທ່ຽງ,ທ່ຽວຊົມ​ຖ້ຳ�​ພະ​ບາດ ແລະ ການຫລິ້ນ​ນ້ຳ�ຕົກ​ຕາດ.

ເບິ່ງ​ລາຍ​ລະອຽດ​ເພີ່ມ​ເຕີມ ​ໄດ້​ທີ່ www.khiri.com/our-office/laos ຫລື ສົ່ງ​ອ​ເີ ມ​ວສອບ​ຖາມ​ໄດ້​ທີ່ laos@khiri.com

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LISTING

VIENTIANE

Shop Highlight

DEPARTMENT STORES/ MARKETS

Carol Cassidy Lao Textiles

D-MART : All the household necessities can be found alongside food and drink, while a fresh meats counter is also open. Within the D-Mart building itself are some eateries and other boutique stores selling items like jewellery and coffee. Outside, a fresh fruit market sells all colours and shapes of produce. Near Wat Dongpalane, Dongpalane Rd, 9am-10pm, 7 days

Carol Cassidy has been weaving since she was 17 years of age. Having worked all over the world, she finally made Laos her home in Laos as part of the United Nations Development Programme. Enthralled at the diversity in weaving motifs and styles, Carol opened Lao Textiles one year later, one of the first commercial weaving workshops in the country.

HOME IDEAL : Smack bang in the centre of Vientiane, Home Ideal consists of food, clothing, sports attire and housewares based over three storeys. The ground floor has a large supermarket and stationary section, with the middle floor stocking kitchen and household goods, as well as containing a sports/outdoor area. The top floor sells everything from bed linens to bicycles. Corner of Hengboun and Chao Anou Rd, Vientiane, 8am10pm, 7 days TALAT SAO (MORNING MARKET) : Talat

Sao and the accompanying air-conditioned mall are popular stops for visitors who want to see a variety of specific vendors flog their goods to locals and visitors alike. The main building has more upmarket boutique stores and a top floor consisting of gold sellers. Some reliable and not-so-reliable electronics, shoes and clothing are in another connected building, while the covered outdoor market features everything from ornamental wood carvings and handicrafts, to refrigerators and televisions. Lane Xang Avenue, 7am-5pm, 7 days

ARTS AND CRAFTS

LAO FINE ARTS HANDICRAFT JEWELLERY : Superbly made, resplendent

jewellery made from wood, coconut and silver can be bought here. Other contemporary and more traditional items can also be purchased. It’s a little from the centre of town but if unique jewellery is what you’re looking for, it’s worth the tuk-tuk ride. 550/01 Thatluang Tai Village, Saysettha District, 020 554 26993, 9.30am-5.30pm

NIGHT MARKET : Drawing hordes of tourists

and locals to the riverside each evening you simply can’t miss the two rows of red-topped marquees snaking along the waterfront mingling with smoky food stalls and mountainous balloon displays. The wares on sale may be aimed predominately towards tourists (think t-shirts, trinkets and Buddhist inspired art) but locals shop here too and there are plenty of bargains to be had. Possibly the most relaxed market in South East Asia and haggling is acceptable. Mekong riverfront, Fa Ngum Rd, Sunset-9pm, 7 days

T'Shop Lai

T’SHOP LAI GALLERY :

This gallery sells some delightful arts and crafts as well as beauty products and natural cosmetics. The interior ambience is made to reflect the smells and look of the coconut, while items are displayed on the walls and in the style of a gallery. T’Shop Lai is known for its customised products such as hotel soaps, shampoo and bath items. Wat Inpeng Street, 021 223178, Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 10am-6pm, www.artisanslao.com

CLOTHING & TEXTILES FINER THINGS :

Radiant silks and authentic handicrafts line the walls of Finer Things. It’s a small shop set over two floors and has a flowing selection of traditional Lao skirts (sin), colourful silks and figurines made from the delicate material. They can also take measurements and make up clothes for you with a one to two day turnaround. 34/03 Francois Ngin Rd, 9am-6.30pm

MINISTRY OF SILK :

The Ministry of Silk displays a vast array of fine men’s and women’s clothing, fashion accessories, jewellery and handbags. It is one of the most prestigious stores in Vientiane and testifying this is the champagne and wine served to customers. It’s the first international Lao Ready-to-Wear brand and summer sales have up to 50% off. 99/01 Nam Phou Square, 021 213776, 9am-9pm, 7 days, www.ministryofsilk.com

BOOKSHOPS

MONUMENT BOOKS : Monument Books is the

SAOBAN VILLAGE : Started by community leader and Lao development worker Sombath Somphone, this shop practices a fair trade policy and gives craftspeople from the village an opportunity to support themselves and their families through sales here. All proceeds go directly to the artists and items include bamboo ornaments, jewellery and silk textiles. 97/1 Chao Anou Rd, 020 778 39152, 1pm-8pm, closed Sundays 56

biggest and most Western style bookshop you’ll find in the capital. It has good-sized fiction and regional literature sections, as well as children’s travel, arts and history shelves. Travel guidebooks are available and Southeast Asian newspapers and international magazines are just inside the door. Nokeokoummane Rd, 021 243708, Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun 9am-6pm, www.monumentbooks.com

BOOK CAFÉ : This little shop has a decent selection of fiction and non-fiction works, as well as some second hand guidebooks and language materials. Its main draw is for the impressive amount of books on Laos and its history and culture. Take a gander to discover some surprising treasures. Hengboun Rd, 020 568 93741, 8am-8pm

Intricate textiles are displayed in her beautiful gallery-workshop. Carol works with local Lao weavers to produce some of the finest and most sought after textiles in the country. Indeed, she has even had pieces displayed in museums across the US. Carol and her team specialise in 100% handwoven silk. The 40 artisans she employs dedicate full attention and skill to producing everything from wall hangings and customs furnishing fabrics to scarves and shawls. In fact, the art you’ll see is a combination of her style with those of ancient local techniques. The hybrid looms with Carol designed herself produce delicate brocade, ikat and tapestry textiles. To take home some of these authentic and crafted materials as a gift or to decorate your own space would be a special item to cherish. Considering the time-honoured traditions and skill invested in every piece, it’s a genuine part of Laos you’ll hold on to forever. Carol Cassidy Lao Textiles Noekummane Rd, Ban Mixay Mon-Fri 8am-12pm & 2pm-5pm, Sat 8am-12pm www.laotextiles.com

ຮ້ານ​ຕໍ່າ​ຜ້າພື້ນ​ເມືອງລາວ Carol Cassidy ນາງ Carol ເລີ່​ມຕົ້ນ​ຕໍ່າ​ຜ້າຕັ້ງ​ແຕ່​ຕອນ​ທີ່ລາວອາຍຸ​ໄດ້ 17 ປີ ​ແຕ່​ ວ່າພາຍຫລັງ​ທີ່​ມາ​ເຖິງ​ປະ​ເທດລາວ ​ໃນ​ປີ 1989,ລາວຈຶ່ງ​ເກີດ​ແນວ​ ຄວາມ​ຄດ ິ ​ທີ່​ຈະ​ເຮັດ​ທ​ຸລະ​ກດ ິ ​ດ້ານ​ນີ້. ທີ​ມງານ​ຂອງ​ລາວແມ່ນ​ຜູ້ຊ່ຽວຊານ​ ດ້ານການ​ຕໍ່າຜ້າ​ໄຫມ​ຫັດຖະກຳ�​ແບບ 100%. ລາວໄດ້ຈ້າງຊ່າງ​ຜີ​ມື ທີ່ຊຳ�ນານ​ງານຈຳ�ນວນ 40 ຄົນເພື່ອ​ມາສະ​ແດງ​ສມ ີ ແ ື ລະ​ໃສ່ແຮງ​ບັນດານ​ ໃຈ​ຂອງ​ພວກ​ເຂົາໃນ​ການ​ຕໍ່າ​ແຜ່ນຜ້າບໍ່​ວ່າ​ຈະ​ເປັນ​ຜ້າ​ແພລາຍ​ດອກ​ ປະດັບ​ເອ້, ຊຸດ​ພື້ນ​ບ້ານ ​ໄປ​ຈົນ​ເຖິງ​ຜ້າພັນ​ຄໍ ​ແລະຜ້າບ່ຽງ. ການຊື້ແລະເອົາຜ້າ​ແພ​ທີ່​ສວຍ​ງາມ​ແບບດັ້ງ​ເດີມດັ່ງກ່າວໄປ​ເປັນ​ເຄື່ອງ​ ຕ້ອນ​ຂອງຝາກຫລືເອົາ​ໄປ​ປະດັບ​ເອ້​ບ້ານ​ຂອງ​ຕົນ​ເອງກໍ່ເປັນອີກສິ່ງຫນຶ່ງ​ ທີ່​ຫນ້າ​ຖະຫນຸຖະຫນອມ. ຮ້ານຕໍ່າຜ້າພື້ນເ​ ມືອງລາວ Carol Cassidy ຖະຫນົນຫນ ​ ໍ່ກຸມມານ, ບ້ານ​ມີ​ໄຊ

ຈັນ-ສຸກ ເ​ ວລາ 8 ໂ ​ ມງ​ເຊົ້າ-12 ​ໂມງ​ແລງ & 2 ໂມງ​ແລງ - 5 ​ໂມງ​ແລງ, ວັນ​ເສົາ 8 ໂ ​ ມງ​ເຊົ້າ -12 ​ໂມງ​ແລງ

​ເບິ່ງລ ​ າຍ​ລະອຽດ​ເພີ່ມເ​ ຕີມ www.laotextiles.com


LUANG PRABANG MARKETS

PHOSI MARKET : A small distance away from the centre of town lies Phosi Market. This space sees every smell, sound and sight stake a corner as forest animal meat, spices, fresh vegetables, and fruits live side by side with those selling phones, watches and house wares. If you’re after a glimpse of local life, don’t miss this. Photisalath Rd, south of Phou Vao Rd, 7am-5pm

ARTS, CRAFTS & TEXTILES

CAMA CRAFTS : This is a non-profit self-help project that supports village women by providing a space for them to sell their goods to a wider audience. Handmade products show off traditional patterns and craft techniques and are special gifts for people at home or as a memento of the visitor’s travels. Ounkham Rd, Ban Wath Nong, Luang Prabang, 071 254594, www. camacrafts.org

NIGHT MARKET : Down the length of Sisavangvong Rd in Luang Prabang nightly is the famous Night Market. Much like Vientiane, but conveying a tunnelled atmosphere, the sellers display the usual handicrafts such as rosewood elephants and silver jewellery, alongside herbal teas, rice paper diaries and beautiful silk and linen dresses. It’s a friendly market and bargains are to be had. Sisangvong Rd (to where it meets Settathirath Rd), 5pm-11pm, 7 days (weather dependent) OCK POP TOK : A shop with a difference. Ock Pop Tok seeks to empower local women by developing their artistic skills and sells their items. Woven textiles, bags and scarves are on offer, while they also run classes for visitors who want to try their hand at production. An artist’s centre welcomes guests to see the women as they weave and is a wonderful way to become acquainted with their skills and dedication to the craft. Sakkarine Rd, Ban Vat Sene, 071 253219, 8am-9pm, www.ockpoptok.com

CARUSO LAO : All products in here are handmade from wood or silk and wholly produced in Laos, overseen by the shop’s Canadian owner. There are wooden bowls, bed spreads, Buddha heads and cushions to keep the customer busy examining. Sakkarine Rd, 071 254574, 9am-9pm, www.carusolao.com MA TE SAI : This is a boutique shop with shelves of

original souvenirs and handicrafts. The store seeks to help local people by working with them to sell their products and improve their livelihoods. Many of the souvenirs are made from recycled paper, bamboo and other natural materials. Sisangvong Rd, Ban Xieng Mouane, 071 260654, 8am-9pm, www.matesai.com

TAEC

TRADITIONAL ARTS & ETHNOLOGY CENTRE : Although better known as a museum, the centre also

supports over 500 handicraft producers from all around Laos. They sell beaded necklaces, belts, backpacks, jewellery and lots of other items that showcase the enormous ethnic diversity of Laos. Enjoy the small Le Patio Café also. Kitsalat Rd, Ban Khamyong, 071 253364, Tue-Sun 9am-6pm, www.taeclaos.org

BOOKSHOPS

L’ETRANGER BOOKS & TEA :

This quaint and wooden decorated book café lies close to the Nam Khan River and sells second-hand books. It’s wellstocked and has books in many languages that cover the arts, travel, fiction, culture and regional history. Over 70 varieties of tea are for sale upstairs and it’s a great place to hang out and spend an afternoon. Phousi Rd, Ban Aphay, 071 212880, Mon-Sat 7am10pm, Sun 10am-10pm

YENSABAI BOOKS & ART : A good amount new

Ock Pop Tok

and used books are stacked here. It has a small library offering paid loans, while you’ll also come across some local books and wider Lao titles. A good alternative to L’Etranger. Chao Sisouphan Rd, 071 260195, 8am-10pm, www.yensabaiart.com

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LISTING

VIENTIANE

ADINA SPA This experienced spa team provides the ultimate pampering. There is a full array of beauty and salon services to compliment the slimming and firming therapies and spa packages. Unlike many others, they provide Japansese traditional massages, Indian massages and a Hot Stone Massage. The facials are amongst the most advanced in the city. Higher-end prices. 170 Phonsaath, Kaysone Rd, 021 414138, 9am-10pm, www.adinaspalao.com CHAMPA SPA & MASSAGE Champa has two locations in town within serene, quiet surroundings. The offer spa packages from 1½ to 3½ hours that combine body and facial treatments. Traditional Lao Massage, Herbal Treatments, Aromatherapy Massage and Body Steams have a range of lengths and prices. There is also a hand and foot spa, waxing and hair services. Among the best in Vientiane. Corner of Fa Ngum and Pangkham roads, and Pangkham Rd, near Nam Phu, 021 251926, 9am-10pm, www.champaspa.com DALAH SPA

If you want to escape noise that may sometimes seep through the walls in downtown, travel just a couple of kilometres out to Dalah. They’ve got a mineral milk bath, anti-stress back and shoulder treatments, the Four Hands Massage and sports massage for those exerting themselves. Located on a quiet lane just off the main road. 140 Khouvieng Rd, 021 285125, 9am-9pm Dalah Spa

GREEN PARK CHAMPA LAO SPA

This hotelbased spa is walled-in with dark woods and has snow white beds with trinkets on lockers and candles burning for soft light. They’ve got traditional massage, body exfoliation and expert facial treatments for guests and visitors. Foot massages take place in comfy recliners with a view to the gardens. Green Park Hotel, 12 Khouvieng Rd,021 263064, 10am-7pm, www. greenparkvientiane.com

HEALING HANDS MASSAGE & SPA

Healing Hands is located within Don Chan Palace Hotel on the Mekong Riverfront. Although if you’re staying there it’s a handy option, it’s also worth a tuk-tuk or taxi out. They offer reflexology, natural aromatherapy oil massages and Lao hot herbal compress treatments within a spacious and warmly coloured parlour. Don Chan Palace Hotel, Fa Ngum Rd, 021 244288, 10am-7pm, www. donchanpalacelaopdr.com

HERBAL SAUNA

This establishment has Lao style herbal saunas for men and women in separate rooms. It also offers different massages including Lao, oil and foot. Entrance fees include a towel for men but women must rent a sarong for a small fee. Located very close to the Mekong in central Vientiane. Chao Anou Rd, 020 550 45655, 1pm-9pm

MANDARINA BODY & SOUL SPA Another one GIRIYA SPA You’ve got to travel to Rashmi’s Hotel,

3km from the city centre, to reach Giriya, but that’s small sacrifice for the awaiting experience. There’s an Indian atmosphere reflected in the decoration, while Thai masseuses give excellent massages in private rooms. Soon open to membership. Rashmi’s Hotel, Thadeua Rd Km3, 021 315088, www.rashmishotel.com Giriya Spa

of many in the centre of Vientiane, but definitely among the best. The staff is friendly and there’s a few packages to choose from. Otherwise, the Traditional Lao massage is very popular and the Swedish massage is also well worth a try. The foot massage goes almost to 1½ too, longer than most. Pangkham Rd, near Nam Phu, 021 223857, 10am-9.30pm

MANEE SPA About 4km from the city centre, Manee

Spa offers consistently good massages in a tranquil setting. There are several private rooms with quality tables and a tasteful interior. It’s on the higher price scale but the setting with beautiful gardens is second to none. Oil massages are the most economical option. Sokpaluang Rd, past the Myanmar Embassy, 021 353207

NIRVANA SPA You could be staring at the options here for an hour. The head and back massage is particularly good but it’s possible to get a combination of several treatments. The delightful honey body wrap could be combined with aromatic skin massage, followed by a herbal skin polish. Middle of the road prices. Pangkham Rd, facing Lao Plaza Hotel, 021 222936, 10am-9pm, www.nirvana-spa-laos.com PAPAYA SPA

The setting in an old French colonial villa is charm enough, but inside the opulence is even greater. They’ve a Swedish oil massage, offer facials, body scrubs, reflexology and saunas. It’s definitely one of the pricier in the capital, but well worth it if you want to relax in a state of pure luxury for a few hours. Phanya Sy Rd, 021 216550, 9.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, www. papayaspa.com

WHITE LOTUS MASSAGE & YOGA White Lotus

is a very professional and well-run establishment that gives excellent foot massages in relaxing leather recliners. It’s one of the more affordable yet consistent massage businesses in town and has all the usuals, including a great aromatherapy massage. Try the signature lotus foot massage or the Cleopatra treatment with gold masque for 200,000kip – heavenly. Also does yoga instruction. Pangkham, close to Nam Phu, 021 217492, 10am-10pm

LUANG PRABANG

AYU SPA At Xieng Thong Palace Hotel, Ayu Spa is massage and body treatment heaven. Holistic practices performed by experienced therapists are a perfect way to slip into true relaxation. You could spend a half-day sampling the variety of massage and sauna/steam options, while a pedicure or manicure ties a few hours off. Light decor and minimalist decorations add to the peace of the place. Kounxaou Rd, Ban Phoneheung, 071 213200, www.xiengthongpalace.com

NIKOLAZ MASSAGE

This is just a 5-minute walk from the Mekong in the centre of town and they offer advanced massage and body therapies, as well as the traditional foot and body massages. Prices are reasonable and downtown location is quite handy. The owners are very friendly too and can further elaborate on options available. 45 Settathirath Rd, 9am-11pm

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Ayu Spa


DHAMMADA MASSAGE OASIS Tucked away beside

a beautiful lotus pond and surrounded by coconut trees, Dhammada provides exceptional massages. There are aroma, oriental and foot massages to ease body tensions and bigger packages to spend a few hours. Very friendly and experienced staff makes Dhammada one of the best in town. Prices are very reasonable and individual massages last up to 2 hours. Luang Prabang Oasis Hotel, Ban Vixoun, 071 212642, www.luangprabangoasis.com Dhammada Massage Oasis

Editor’s Pick DOK CHAMPA MASSAGE Fully trained and qualified massage therapists mean Dok Champa is an excellent place to relieve stress. They offer sports, aromatic oil, and gel and lotion massage. There are also deep cleansing facials for those looking for complete body rejuvenation. Prices start at 60,000 kip for one hour and 110,000 kip for 2 hours. V is ou n a r a t h R o a d , B a n V i x o u n , 0 2 0 7 7 7 7 9 9 6 6 , www.dokchampamassage.com KIRIDARA SPA

Kiridara Spa’s signature treatment is the Nuat Bouhan Massage, which lasts 90 minutes and fuses ancient Lao traditions with the regional therapies of Japanese Shiatsu, Thai massage and Chinese acupuncture. They’ve got many packages to choose from and the view over Luang Prabang isn’t half bad either. 22/13 North Road, Ban Naviengkham, 071 261888, www.snhcollection. com/kiridara

Papaya Spa

Papaya Spa is the epitome of top-notch spa and massage care in Vientiane. Housed within a French colonial residence, this was Vientiane’s very first spa. Surrounded by gardens of tropical orchids set amongst palms, mangos and coconut trees, it is a refuge from the hustle and bustle of the city.

The spa has traditional Lao herbal steam baths, a Swedish massage service, foot reflexology and an aromatherapy massage. To top-off hours of body treatments, why not take the option of body scrubs and the 100% natural facial care package which uses natural oils imported from Grasse, France.

The spa uses homemade, traditional recipes made from papaya, tamarind, honey, milk and turmeric to infuse your skin with natural healing and regenerative energy.

Papaya Spa is a true haven of paradise in Vientiane and a visit will leave you feeling fresh, revitalised and sure to return.

There are two herbal steam bath rooms and an intimate ‘Women’s Corner’ where you can bathe within floral scented water near a turquoise blue patio. There’s a private garden and pavilions which have been built from golden teak and rosewood, so you’ll soon be forgetting the clamour of outside.

Papaya Spa Phanya Sy Rd 021 216550/020 556 10565 (Thongvinh) Tue-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm www.papayaspa.com Review by Ian Lacey Photos by Wakem

Kiridara Spa

LAO RED CROSS Set up to help children in poor communities, Lao Red Cross is one of the cheapest in town but with no compromise on quality. Houses in a Lao-French building, try the herbal sauna for 10,000 kip between 4pm8pm, or go for one of the traditional massages. Bring your own towel or sarong. Wisunarat Rd, 071 252856, 9am-9pm L’HIBISCUS SPA Across from Wat Sop, L’Hibiscus has been open for several years and rated amongst the best in town. The massage and spa is frequented by expats and tourists alike. Hot herbal compress, aromatherapy and even eye treatments are on the menu. L’Hibiscus is in a charming old two-storey building and exudes a soothing atmosphere. Prices start at 60,000 kip and top out at 350,000 kip for longer treatments. 45 Sakhaline Road, 030 9235079, Open 10am-10pm SANCTUARY MASSAGE

This is the place to try a superb Thai herbal compress massage. Sanctuary applies steamed Thai and Chinese herbs to the body in a kneading action to release muscle tension and stiffness. It’s pricey but worth it and the 2-hour version is heavenly. There are also aroma and oriental massages in calming rooms. Sanctuary Hotel, Kitsalat Rd, 071 213777, www.sanctuaryluangprabang.com

THE SPA GARDEN Spread over three locations, The Spa Garden (also known as Aroma Spa) has a deep tissue massage, a Mystic Lao massage and a foo t m a ss a g e w i t h h erbal cream s am o n g s t i ts signature treatments. Spa products also available for purchase. Ban Phonheuang, 071 212325, 10am-11pm, www.spagardenlpb.com

ຮ້ານຮົມຢາສະຫມຸນໄພ Papaya Spa

ເປັ ນ ຮ້າ ນຮົມ ຢາ ທີ່ນຳ�ໃຊ້ສູ ດ ສະຫນຸ ນ ໄພພື້ນ ເມື ອ ງ ແ ລ ະ ວັດ ຖຸ ດິ ບ ແ ບ ບ ພື້ນ ບ້າ ນ ທີ່ສ ະ ກັດ ຈ າ ກ ຫມາກຮຸ່ງ, ຫມາກຂາມ, ນ້ຳ�ເຜິ້ງ, ນ້ຳ�ນົມ ແລະ ຂີ້ຫມິ້ນ ເພື່ອທາຕາມຜິວຫນັງຂອງທ່ານ ເຊິ່ງເປັນວິທກ ີ ານຮັກສາ ຜິ ວ ພັນ ແ ບ ບ ທຳ�ມ ະ ຊ າ ດ ແ ລ ະ ເ ຮັ ດ ໃ ຫ້ທ່າ ນ ຮູ້ສຶ ກ ສົດຊື່ນຂຶ້ນ. ຮ້າ ນດັ່ງ ກ່າ ວ ມີ ຫ້ອ ງຮົມ ຢາດ້ວ ຍອາຍນ້ຳ�ສະຫມຸ ນ ໄພ ພື້ນ ເມື ອ ງລາວ, ມີ ກ ານບໍ ລິ ກ ານນວດແບບສະວີ ເ ດັ ນ , ມີ ກ າ ນ ນ ວ ດ ຕີ ນ ເ ພື່ອ ບັນ ເ ທົ າ ອ າ ກ າ ດ ປ ວ ດ ເ ມື່ອ ຍ ແລະ ການນວດບຳ�ບັດ ດ້ວ ຍກິ່ນ ຫອມທຳ�ມະຊາດ. ຖ້າມີເວລາພຽງພໍ ທ່ານຄວນລອງໃຊ້ບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານບຳ�ລຸງຮັກສາ ທົ່ວຮ່າງກາຍ, ທ່ານ ສາມາດຂັດຜິວທົ່ວຮ່າງກາຍ ແລະ ການຮັກສາຜິວຫນ້າທີ່ໃຊ້ສະຫມຸນໄພທຳ�ມະຊາດ 100%.

ຮ້ານຮົມຢາສະຫມຸນໄພ Papaya Spa ຖະຫນົນ ປັນຍາສີ ໂທ: 021 216550

ເປີດ ວັນຄານ-ທິດ ເວລາ 9.30 ເຊົ້າ -7.30 ແລງ ຂໍ້ມນ ູ ເພີ່ມເຕີມ: www.papayaspa.com

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health, wellness & fitness VIENTIANE FITNESS

BEE-BEE FITNESS : Across from the Australian Embassy on Thadeua Rd, Bee-Bees is one of the newer fitness outfits in town. It has 1,600 sq metres of floor space with resistance and free weights, treadmills, sauna and personal lockers. There are yoga, spinning and gym ball classes too. These are subject to change and some new classes arrive every now and again. A one day pass is 40,000kip and a seven day pass is 175,000kip. One, three, six month and one year memberships can be bought for 500,000kip, 700,000kip, 1 million and 1.5 million kip respectively. Km 4 Thadeua Rd, Mon-Sat 6am-10pm, Sun 8am-10pm MEKONG AEROBICS : Every night in Chao Anouvong Park across from Bor Pen Yang pub you can join in the yellow-clad locals and expats at their fist pumping aerobics session. There are two groups, one faster and one slower and the session lasts an hour. A great way to incorporate yourself into local life by the river if you’re just passing through. 5,000 kip. Chao Anouvong Park, 6pm-7pm, 7 days SAFAA GYM : This is all about Kickboxing. Safaa specialises in private and class lessons for kickboxing and boxing. The classes are run on Monday, Wednesday and Friday each week from 6pm-7.30pm. One class session is 70,000 kip and one month’s payment depends on how many days you want. Private lessons range from 150,000 kip for one person to 400,000 kip for four people. www.safaagym.com SENGDARA GYM : This is Vientiane’s most popular and well-stocked gym. Located three kilometres outside of downtown on Phontan Rd, Sengdara is a fitness centre complete with resistance and free weights, treadmills, swimming pool, exercise classes as well as a pool and massage room. The facilities are top-notch and new, while experienced trainers are on hand to assist with any questions. One-day passes (including or excluding massage) are available for about 50,000kip, while one month (600,000kip), six month (1.9 million kip) and one year (2.8 million kip) memberships are available. 5/77 Phontan Rd, Ban Saphanthong District, 021 452159, Mon-Sat 6am-10pm, Sun 8am-10pm, www.sengdarafitness.com

SWIMMING POOLS

DON CHAN PALACE POOL :

On the third floor of Don Chan Palace Hotel, this pool is in the open-air. It offers both sun and shade and the space to do a few laps when not busy, which it rarely is. Access is charged at US$10 per day for sole use of the pool, while US$15 will get you into the gym and sauna too. Perhaps the best value for money in the city. Don Chan P a l a c e H o t e l , 0 2 1 2 4 4 2 8 8 , 8 a m - 7 p m , w w w. donchanpalacelaopdr.com

HOTEL MERCURE : A small but relaxing pool for those who want to chill out more than build up the muscles is at the Mercure. It sits by the terrace and a restaurant is nearby so there’ll be more of an audience. If you fancy a full day package, pay 100,000kip and you’ll have access to the pool and the gym. Hotel Mercure, Unit 10 Samsenthai Rd, 021213570, 7am-10pm LAO PLAZA HOTEL :

With a no expense spared atmosphere, Lao Plaza could top the list in terms of pool and gym facilities for the day pass visitor. The pool isn’t huge, but it’s not small either, and there’s plenty of room to move about. Its 120,000kip for pool access but for 150,000kip you’ll get steam-room, Jacuzzi and sauna which is a pretty good deal. For 18s and older, however. Lao Plaza Hotel, corner of Samsenthai and Pangkham rds, 021 218800, 7am-10pm, 7 days, www.laoplazahotel.com

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SETTHA PALACE : Take a shot at high-end living (or relaxing) at Settha Palace. The pool is small so you’re not going to be shattered at the end, but you might leave a little tipsy. You can order drinks at the bar, take a deck chair and read a book while intermittingly going for a splash. Plush pool and terrace for US$20 per day. Settha Palace Hotel, Pangkham Rd, 021 217581, 7am-7pm, www.setthapalace.com VIENTIANE PUBLIC POOL : The biggest, and the most crowded, the public pool is for anyone on a budget or staying centrally. Weekends are the most crowded as more children venture but weekdays are much quieter. Some classes take place also. Take a towel with you as this is a basic facility. 15,000 kip for adults and 10,000 kip for the kids. Ky Huong Rd (beside National Stadium), 8am-7pm, 7 days

HAIR & BEAUTY KUP TIF :

Kup Tif does the lot. They’ve hair care specialists, massage and body treatments, waxing and nail care. Take some time out and try their bio waxing with local ingredients and fruits from the Mekong region. They take great pride in making sure skin leaves soft and healthy. A range of international products from L’Oreal to Wella are used for hair care. Chanthakoumane Rd (beside That Dam stupa), 020 555 05887, 9am-7pm, 7 days, www.kuptif.com

LISTING PRINCESS BEAUTY : Facial (Deep Lifting, Bio

Oxygen and Photo Rejuvenation), Facial Nano (Green Mask and Collagen) and Body Skin (Chocolate Scrub, Anti-Oxidant Sesame Rub and Jasmine Rice Scrub) treatments are among the choices. There are plenty more including Shape therapy and Thermo-Massage. All the science is dizzying but can be read about on their website. 48 Fa Ngum Rd, 021 214643, www.lvcitylaos.com

TONY PARIS HAIR SALON : Tony is the long standing favourite for a quality hair cut or styling in the capital. His small salon in located behind Wat Ong Teu and he does a range of quality unisex cuts and dyes. He speaks several languages including Lao, English and French. Service with a small and dependability. Behind Wat Ong Teu, 9am-8pm YVES-ROCHER : The household name and chain are new to Vientiane and doling out some of the finest facial therapies born from 50 years of botanical research. They’ve got a Botanical Deep Cleansing Treatment and an Ultra Hydrating Therapy to rejuvenate your skin. They also determine your skin type and recommend skin care products, of which you can buy in-store. 35 minute to 75 minute treatments are available. Pangkham Rd (across from Khop Chai Deu), 021 216025, mina@annam-group.com


LUANG PRABANG FITNESS

KIRIDARA GYM : In the Kiridara Resort Hotel, it offers daily membership use of their gym. Its US$10 for the gym and pool, while halve that for just the gym. The space contains free weights, treadmills, elliptical trainers and upright bikes. Monthly membership is US$99 and yearly is US$1100. Kiridara Hotel, 22/12 North Road, 071 261888, www.snhcollection.com/kiridara PACK LUCK GYM : You’ll get a great session in here and with very modern and well-kept equipment on offer, you might frequent more than once. Weights, treadmills and changing rooms located in an old looking building. There’s also a steam room which opens from 5pm-8pm. Entrance ranges from 30,000kip to 50,000kip depending on time. Settathirath Rd (past Dara Market heading from town), Mon-Fri 6am-9pm, Sat-Sun 7am-9pm.

Fitness Highlight

SWIMMING POOL

Olympic Fitness @ Rashmi’s

out of the water. The pool is quite big and has some deck chairs to lounge on after a dip. With Naga-head installations spouting water and a garden feel all around it’s a place to take a time out rather than churn out a few laps. Membership to all facilities including the gym runs at US$800 per year but one day passes available. Le Palais Juliana, Chao Phetsalath Rd, 071 260417, 8am-7pm, 7 days, www.lepalaisjuliana.com

The gym – located inside Rashmi’s Hotel on Thadeua Rd Km 3 – is a startlingly well presented and professional level fitness centre. Brand new shiny facilities and the finest of equipment have Olympic Fitness leading the way for a workout in the capital.

PILATES & YOGA

The fitness room is replete with weights, stand-up bicycles and treadmills. A special cardio zone allows you to work on getting more oxygen into the blood and improve overall energy levels. There’s a variety of strength equipment too. Personal trainers, should you need expert advice, are on hand to assist you for an afternoon and guide you through all the technical aspects of the machines as well as your exercise routine.

LE PALAIS JULIANA : This is sheer luxury in and

LUANG PRABANG PILATES : This group organises

beginner/intermediate Pilates classes three times per week (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday). Mat classes take place at Mekong Yoga Studio in Ban Aphai and at a hotel near Dara Market. Private and individual sessions also available. Their website is the best source of current information. www.luangprabangpilates.com

LUANG PRABANG YOGA : Luang Prabang Yoga is a cooperative of independent yoga teachers who offer yoga in the city’s most beautiful locations. Classes are held at Utopia Bar and Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre. 90 minute classes are 50,000kip for the expat/traveller and 30,000 kip for locals. 60 minute classes are 30,000kip for expat/travellers and 20,000 for Lao. Check their website for timetables. www.luangprabangyoga.org

For those inclined towards other forms of wellness, Olympic Fitness runs yoga classes. And for anyone that’s after a spot of chilling out after a heavy workout, a Jacuzzi, infrared sauna and steam rooms top off a complete session. On the roof

too, enjoy the shimmering swimming pool or lie back into a deckchair and gaze out over the Mekong with a well deserved drink, which could be a cool beer or energy concoction. As if that wasn’t already enough to stir you into action, they’ve a sitting area to cool down, locker rooms and towel sets, LED TVs and a drinks cabinet if you need to break up your training. Membership is available in various packages from one month to a year. The yearly membership is US$1,300 and includes use of the pool. If it’s just day use you are after however, it’s US$15 on weekends and US$20 during the week. Student, family and senior price packages can also be bought. Rashmi’s Hotel Km 3 Thadeua Rd 021 315088 Mon-Sun 7am-9pm www.rashmishotel.com

ສູນອອກກຳ�ລັງກາຍ

ໂອລິມປິກ

ສູ ນ ອອກກຳ�ລັງ ກາຍ ໂອລິ ມ ປິ ກ ຢູ່ພ າຍໃນໂຮງແຮງລັດ ສະໝີ , ຢູ່ທີ່ ຖະໜົນ ທ່າ ເດື່ອ , ຫຼັກ 3 ແມ່ນ ໄດ້ຮັບ ການ ນຳ�ສະເໜີ ຢ່າ ງດີ ເ ລີ ດ ແລະ ເປັ ນ ສູ ນ ອອກກຳ�ລັງ ກາຍ ລະດັບມືອາຊີບ. ສູນອອກກຳ�ລັງກາຍ ໂອລິມປິກ ແມ່ນພຽບພ້ອມໄດ້ດ້ວຍ ອຸ ປ ະກອບຍົກ ນໍ້າໜັກ ,ລົດ ຖີ ບ ອອກກຳ�ລັງ ກາຍ ແລະ ເຄື່ອງແລ່ນອອກກຳ�ລັງກາຍ ແລະ ຄູຝກ ຶ ສ່ວນຕົວ ເຊິ່ງພ້ອມ ໃຫ້ຄຳ�ແນະນຳ�ສຳ�ລັບທ່ານສະເໝີ. ຫຼັງຈາກການອອກກຳ�ລັງ ກາຍທີ່ໜັກໜ່ວງແລ້ວ, ທ່ານສາມາດຜ່ອນຄາຍແບບສະບາຍ ກັບອ່າງອາບນໍ້າ ຈາກູຊີ, ຫ້ອງຊາວນາລະບົບອິນຝາເລດ ແ ລ ະ ຫ້ອ ງ ອົບ ອ າ ຍ ນໍ້າ ຄົບ ຊຸ ດ . ເ ທິ ງ ຊັ້ນ ດ າ ດ ຟ້າ , ທ່າ ນສາມາດມີ ຄ ວາມສຸ ກ ກັບ ການລອຍນໍ້າກາງແຈ້ງ ຫຼື ນອນພັກຜ່ອນແບບສະບາຍເທິງຕັ່ງນອນ ຂ້າງສະນໍ້າ ແລະ ຊົມທິວທັດແມ່ນໍ້າຂອງ. ລາຄາບັດສະມາຊິກ ແມ່ນ US$1,300 ຕໍ່ປີ ເຊິ່ງລວມທັງ ບໍລກ ິ ານສະນໍ້າ. ຖ້າທ່ານໃຊ້ບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານເປັນມື້ ແມ່ນ US$15 ຕໍ່ມື້ລ ະຫ່ວ າງທ້າ ຍອາທິ ດ ແລະ US$20 ລະຫ່ວ າງ ວັນ ປົກ ກະຕິ . ສະມາຊິ ກ ເປັ ນ ກຸ່ມ ນັກ ຮຽນ, ຄອບຄົວ ຫຼື ຜູ້ອາວຸໂສ ແມ່ນມີໃຫ້ເລືອກ.

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sleep

LISTING

VIENTIANE

ANSARA HOTEL : Boutique. $$$ Tucked

down a leafy laneway this small-size boutique destination will delight even the most discerning guests. An elegant hideaway in the bustling city centre, the 14 rooms with private balconies looking onto manicured tropical gardens exude colonial charm. In this location you’ll be surrounded by countless dining options but with excellent in-house restaurant La Signature at hand you won’t need to look far for exquisite epicure. Free WiFi, breakfast included, business. Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha, 021 213 514, www.ansarahotel.com

Budget Choice! -iHOUSE : Mid-range. $ Situated behind the iconic Nam Phou Fountain, a popular gathering place in the heart of Vientiane, iHouse is the perfect option for those who want to stay where the action is without the usual city centre price tag. Tidy, colourful rooms come in a range of configurations from budget to deluxe, all rooms come with comfy queen beds and pillows. The friendly staff will go out of their way to assist you with bike rentals, tours, air or bus tickets and laundry services by request. Free WiFi. 72/6 Pang Kham Street, 021 217053, www.ihouse-laos.com

CHANTHAPANYA HOTEL :

Mid range. $$ Conveniently located in the heart of the city centre you’ll be at the doorstep of Vientiane’s myriad of bars, cafes and restaurants in this family-run hotel. The warm and inviting atmosphere extends to the spotless guest rooms which are decorated with Lao artworks and ornate carved timber furniture. Service is friendly and professional and will make your stay here a breeze. Free WiFi, pool, business, transfers. Rue Nokeokoumane, Ban Mixay, 021 244284, www.chanthapanyahotel.com

DON CHAN PALACE HOTEL & CONVENTION CENTRE: Top end.

$$$ Commanding attention from its location on the edge of the majestic Mekong River, Don Chan Palace offers sweeping views of Vientiane and Northern Thailand. Each room, from the Classic to the Presidential Suite has been designed for comfort and convenience with plush beds, luxurious bathtubs and quality amenities. Sporting, leisure and dining facilities are first rate. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, business, shuttle service. Unit 6 Piawat Village, Sisatanak District, 021 244288, www.donchanpalacelaopdr.com

GREEN PARK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Boutique. $$$$ Each of the 34 rooms at this exquisite hotel pairs traditional Lao-style orientation with fine contemporary architecture. The elegance of the interiors, both historic and modern, matched with the lush garden setting create a sophisticated blend of style, luxury and relaxing accommodation. The warm hospitality is extended to the Sala Nongchanh Restaurant which offers a selection of modern Lao and international cuisine in a spacious indoor dining suite or on the romantic openair terrace. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, city shuttle. 12 Khouvieng Road, 021 264097, www.greenparkvientiane.com. Restaurant open 7 days 11.30am–2.30pm, 6.30pm–10.30pm

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Luang Prabang View Hotel Perched on a hilltop in the former royal capital is the Luang Prabang View Hotel, and if one were to judge by location alone, then this would take home gold. However, it has much more than just stunning views to offer. It’s a remarkable sight down the gentle gradient and towards the Mekong River, where the high mountains provide a grand backdrop to the green valley below.

AUBERGE SALA INPENG : Mid range. $

If you’re looking to get back to nature the nine private bungalows surrounded by tranquil tropical gardens at Auberge Sala Inpeng might just do the trick. Situated in the Inpeng Temple Area of Vientiane you’d never know the riverfront and bustling city are right at your doorstep. The bungalows are designed like traditional timber Lao houses and are completed with comfortable furnishings, airconditioning and private bathrooms. Enjoy complimentary continental breakfast with each room. 63/6 Inpeng Street, Ban Wat Chanh, 021 242021, www.salalao.com/ Sala_Inpeng/Content/Inpeng.htm

Sleep Highlight

iHouse

LAO PLAZA HOTEL : Top end. $$$$ A

preferred destination for travellers to Vientiane this is the country’s first five star hotel and is setting new standards in luxury hospitality. Over 130 rooms pair thoughtful Laoinfluenced décor with modern conveniences. Opportunities for relaxation abound with a glistening swimming pool and traditional massages available from the in-house spa. Enjoy an array of cuisines on offer at some of the many restaurants and bars on the premises including the popular yum cha buffet at May Yuan Chinese Restaurant and KIKU Japanese restaurant. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, business. 63 Samsenthai Road, 021 218800, www.laoplazahotel.com

MANDALA BOUTIQUE HOTEL : Mid range/boutique. $$$ A hip 1960s house turned school turned hotel, the Mandala Boutique Hotel has operated under many guises but none as cool as this boutique stay. In recent years the villa has been refreshed with colourful modern rooms and landscaped gardens but the unique spirit of the structure has been retained, along with the original tiling and black polished hardwood floors. Stay in and experience the beautiful grounds at night at the open air Mandala Restaurant. Free WiFi, bicycles to rent, transfers. Baan Phiavat, 021 214493, www.mandalahotel.asia MERCURE VIENTIANE : Top end. $$$ Mercure Vientiane is a 4 star-hotel that caters to both business and leisure travellers. This charming hotel is positioned conveniently close to Wattay International Airport, the Mekong River and Vientiane waterfront and the town centre with its many restaurants, cafes and bars. It also offers easy access to tourist attractions including temples and night markets. Enjoy fantastic service, sumptuous buffet or a la carte dining and a sunny pool terrace bar. Free W iFi, spa, pool, fitness. Unit 10 Samsenthai Road, 021 213570, Le Café open 7 days 6am–10pm, Poolside and Lobby bars open 7 days 7am–10pm www.accorhotels.com

Boasting Terrace Twin and King rooms, Deluxe Twin and King rooms, and Superior King rooms, there is no shortage of choice at the Luang Prabang View Hotel. All interiors have been decorated elegantly from locally sourced materials and have the advantage of balconies and terraces from which to rest and take in the magnificent surrounding environment. The Champa Hom Spa offers four single and two double treatment rooms, where advanced healing techniques are employed to calm the mind and bring deep relaxation to any weary body. The extensive infinity pool is a major highlight of the hotel, and at its end, water tumbles into the distance from this, the highest property in the city. The Som View Restaurant, Terrace Café and Bar, and Skyy Bar a diverse range of food and drinks to enjoy as the sun goes down. Whether it’s a conference, executive meeting or gala dinner, Luang Prabang View Hotel has facilities to cater for up to 120 people. Free Wi-Fi, airport shuttle, an energising breakfast and most of all a calming stay make this an excellent choice for several nights in the city. Check out their website for special offers. Prices range from US$165-700 dollars depending on the room and season. Special offers available through the website. Luang Prabang View Hotel A: Phou Meo, Thai-Lao Friendship Rd, Luang Prabang T: +856 71 260560 W: www.luangprabangview.com

ໂຮງແຮມ ຫຼວງພະບາງ ວີວ ມີຫ້ອງຊຸດ​ໃຫຍ່ ແລະ ຫ້ອງຄູ່ຕດ ິ ລະບຽງ, ​ຫ້ອງ​ຊດ ຸ ​ໃຫຍ່ ​ແລະ​ຫ້ອງ​ຄູ່ ພິ​ເສດ, ​ແລະ ຫ້ອງ​ຊດ ຸ ​ໃຫ່ຍ ​ແລະ ພິ​ເສດ​ທີ່​ສດ ຸ , ມີຫຼາຍທາງເລືອກທີ່​ຫຼາກຫຼາຍບໍ່ສິ້ນສຸດ ທີ່ໂຮງແຮມ ຫຼວງພະບາງ ວິວ. ພາຍໃນຖືກຕົບແຕ່ງຢ່າງດີເລີດດ້ວຍ ວັດສະດຸທີ່​ໄດ້​ຈາກທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ພິເສດມີລະບຽງ ແລະ ດາດຟ້າ ສຳ�ລັບພັກຜ່ອນ ແລະ ເຕັມອີ່ມກັບສິ່ງແວດລ້ອມອ້ອມ ຂ້າງທີ່ສວຍງາມ. ຈຳ�ປາຫອມສະປາ ມີຫ້ອງສະປາດ່ຽວສີ່ຫ້ອງ ແລະ ຫ້ອງຄູ່ສອງຫ້ອງ ​ພ້ອມ​ດ້ວຍ​ ສະລອຍນ້ຳ�ບໍ່ມຂ ີ ອບ ​ເຊິ່ງ​ເປັນ​ຈດ ຸ ​ເດັ່ນ. ຍັງມີບາສອງຫຼັງ ແລະ ຮ້ານອາຫານອີກໜຶ່ງຫຼັງ ຕັ້ງຢູ່ສງູ ກວ່າຕົວເມືອງນຳ�​ອກ ີ . ບໍລກ ິ ານ Wi-Fi ຟີຣ, ລົດຮັບສົ່ງເຖິງສະໜາມບິນ ແລະ ຍັງມີການບໍລກ ິ ານອາຫານ ແລະ ເຄື່ອງດື່ມສຳ�ລັບກອງປະຊຸມຂະໜາດ 120 ຄົນ. ລາຄາລະຫວ່າງ 165-700 ໂດລາ. ໂຮງແຮມ ຫຼວງພະບາງ ວີວ

ຕັ້ງຢູ່: ພູແມວ, ຖະໜົນມິດຕະພາບລາວ-ໄທ, ແຂວງຫຼວງພະບາງ

ໂທລະສັບ: +856 71 260560

ເວັບໄຊ: www.luangprabangview.com


PARKVIEW EXECUTIVE SUITES : Top end. $$$$ Perfect for an extended stay Parkview offers well-appointed serviced apartments in studio, one or two bedroom configurations. Situated in downtown Vientiane with easy access to Wattay International Airport Parkview offers modern amenities to the business travelled will a fully equipped meeting room and business centre. Top of the range recreational facilities include immaculate tennis courts, swimming pool, fitness centre, sauna and Jacuzzi and children’s playground. Spa, pool, fitness, business. Luang Prabang Road, 021 250888, www. parkviewexecutive.com

PHASOUK RESIDENCE :

Mid range. $$ Influenced by traditional Lao architecture Phasouk Residence offers carefully designed and decorated rooms that encapsulate warmth, comfort and relaxation. The specious deluxe suites feature plush king beds, elegant Lao objects and textiles and bay windows opening onto a private balconies. The cosier deluxe rooms offer similar understated elegance with double or twin beds. The Phasouk Coffee Bar is a great spot to hit in the mornings and helpful staff can assist with tours and ticketing as well as bicycle rental. Free WiFI, spa, transfers. 57/4 Wat Xieng Gneun Road, 021 243415, www.phasoukresidence.com

RASHMI’S PLAZA HOTEL : Top end.

$$$ A stylish and modern luxury hotel with easy access to the city centre and cultural and tourist sites. Guest rooms offer a range of accommodation options from cosy to decadent elegance and each room is a unique space specifically crafted to meet the tastes of guests with modern furnishings and stylish finishing touches. The River Reflections rooftop bar is the perfect spot to take in sweeping panoramic views and enjoy a cocktail after a busy day of sightseeing. Free WiFi, pool, spa, fitness. Thadeua Road, Ban Beungkhayong-Tai, 021 315088, www. rashmishotel.com

SENGTAWAN RIVERSIDE HOTEL : Mid range. $$ Located in a peaceful part of the riverside with breathtaking frontage onto the Mekong River the Sengtawan Riverside Hotel is just a 10 minute walk from the heart of Vientiane. The charming guestrooms are decorated with traditional Lao interior design in mind with modern facilities like satellite television and high speed internet. The breezy rooftop restaurant is the perfect spot for a sunset drink or nightcap. Free WiFi, spa, business. Unit 3 Ban Sithan Neua, Sikhodtabong District, 021 219 362, www.sengtawan.com

SETTHA PALACE :

Top end. $$$ A grand driveway set amongst lush greenery leads to a charming lobby where warm staff welcome you to the Settha Palace Hotel. This remarkable hotel is housed in a 1930s mansion which has been restored to its former imperial glory capturing an era of classic elegance, gracious service and French colonial sophistication. Light-filled rooms enjoy high ceilings and elegant touches like four-poster beds with down feather pillows and hardwood floors. In-house restaurants offer accomplished French and Asian cuisine. Free WiFi, pool, breakfast included, business. 6 Pang Kham Street, 021 217581, www. setthapalace.com

VIENTIANE GARDEN HOTEL :

Mid range. $$ Situated in a peaceful corner of the city this small hotel offers contemporary-styled rooms surrounding a tranquil swimming pool and gardens. A truly modern experience each spacious room is complete with comfy beds, newly renovated bathrooms, LCD televisions and slick decor. The dedicated and professional staff will go out of their way to make your stay in Vientiane a special one, many of them have years of experience in the hospitality industry so this is some of the best service you’ll find in Laos. The swimming pool makes it a great place for families. Free WiFi, pool. 56 Sihome Road, Ban Sihome, 021 241963, www. vientianegardenhotel.com

VIENTIANE PLAZA HOTEL : Mid range. $$ A top choice for business travellers and officials is the Vientiane Plaza Hotel. For those looking for a business base while in town the convenient on-site office complex has hot desks and private spaces for rent. An in-house gourmet restaurant specialises in Lao and Vietnamese cuisine and also serves international fare and to unwind the fully-equipped fitness centre, tennis court and massage and spa centre are on hand. Spa, business. Sailom Road, Hatsady Neua V i l l a g e , 0 2 0 2 3 0 0 0 4 3 3 , w w w. vientianeplazalao.com Salana Hotel

Luxury Option!-SALANA BOUTIQUE HOTEL : Top end. $$$

The grand façade of the Salana Boutique Hotel embodies sophistication on a busy street corner in downtown Vientiane. Inside guests can escape the hustle and bustle and experience premier Lao hospitality. Designed to impress even the most discerning guests the ample rooms feature luxurious bedding are tastefully decorated with Lao objects d’art and the in-house restaurant and chic bar are not be missed. Free WiFi, spa, business. 112 Chao Anou Road, 021 254254, www. salanaboutique.com

LUANG PRABANG

3 NAGAS HOTEL : Boutique. $$$$ An intimate and charming boutique hotel situated on Luang Prabang’s main street across three heritage UNESCO-protected buildings. Simplicity reigns with elegant touches and attention to the smallest of details. Each of the 15 rooms embodies simple and traditional sophistication with exotic hardwood floors, torchis walls and clay roof tiles. A range of configurations offer king and twin beds and you can opt for exclusive airport transfers and city tours in one of two immaculate vintage cars. Don’t miss dining at the hotel restaurant. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 253 888, www.3-nagas.com

Colonial Charm,Luxurious Elegance www.setthapalace.com

E-mail: reservations@setthapalace.com 6 Pang Kham Street, Vientiane, Lao PDR Tel: (856) 21-217581/2 • Fax: (856) 21-217583 A Belmont International Hotel

Boutique Highlight! - LE SEN BOUTIQUE HOTEL : Top end. $$$ Le

Sen Boutique Hotel is just a leisurely 15 minute stroll from old Luang Prabang but from their lush secluded gardens the city centre will feel a world away. Polished stone and neutral palettes create a slick yet soothing contemporary ambience to the 19 spacious rooms, each of which come with private balconies that overlook a central swimming pool. Guest satisfaction is held at the utmost importance and visitors will feel right at home with a warm welcome from the friendly staff. Free WiFi, pool, fitness, shuttle service to city centre. 113 Manomai Road, Ban Mano, 071 261 668, www.lesenhotel.com

OCK POP TOK VILLA : Mid range/ Boutique. $$ Nestled on the banks of the Mekong River, award-winning local textile centre Ock Tok Pop has created a truly relaxing and unique stay in a tropical paradise. Each of the four rooms combines contemporary design with colourful tribe motifs and the two Mekong facing rooms offer unrivalled views of the river. Guests can observe Lao artisans at work in the weaving studio on the premises and dine at the fantastic Silk Road Café. A free shuttle service will take you into town. Free W iFi, breakfast inclusive. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi market), 071 212597, www. ockpoptok.com

LUANG PRABANG OASIS :

Mid range. $$ Fringed around a calming lotus pond, Luang Prabang Oasis is a top-notch accommodation option just minutes from downtown. The crisp white sheets reflect the early morning sunlight from the balcony rooms and these give exceptional views over the greenery and water features below. Inside, Dhammada Massage is reckoned to be the best in the city. A variety of room classes are available for couples to families. Free WiFi, breakfast included. Ban Vixoun, Settathirath Rd, 071 212642, www.luangprabangoasis.com

Luang Prabang Oasis

Satri House

SATRI HOUSE : Boutique. $$$$ Located in the heart of the city, Satri House was built at the turn of the last century as the residence of Price Souphanouvong. It has been restored to its original elegance and is now renowned as one of the most exquisite structures in the city. Superior crafted wood furnishings are an ambient addition to each of the 31 rooms which feature generous balconies that look onto the manicured grounds. The decadent Satri House Restaurant is not to be missed. Free WiFi, pool, spa. 57 Photisarath Road, Ban Thatluang, 071 253491, www.satrihouse.com 63


sleep

LISTING

THE APSARA : Boutique. $$ A truly beautiful experience in Luang Prabang The Apsara cultivates a sense of effortless elegance from the banks of the Nam Khan. Colonial charm meets luxe cool in each of the spacious bedrooms with crisp linens, traditional silks, quirky objects d’art with balconies and terraces overlooking the river. Stay in one night at try the local and international cuisine at the in-house restaurant – the spiced eggplant salad is divine. If you’re looking to spend your holiday poolside the equally captivating sister hotel The Apsara Rive Droite is just across the river. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Ban Phanluang, 071 254252, www.theapsara.com

Sabaidee Select

My Dream Boutique Resort Modern, chic accommodation with a Lao twist makes My Dream Boutique Resort a tempting option for those seeking a peaceful getaway in Luang Prabang.

Every architectural element of My Dream Boutique Resort represents a contemporary interpretation on centuries-old design. Wood-panelled ceilings, bamboo balconies and that simple charm of every traditional Lao home are found at this luxury accommodation. Located 600m from the city centre, the resort is ideally placed in a quiet area bordering the Nam Khan River. Four types of rooms, of which two are set in bungalows, hide themselves within incredibly green and luscious gardens. The Classic and Deluxe Garden Dream’s are well proportioned and cosy rooms facing onto the garden. The Private Boutique Bungalow on the other hand is a generous option for couples and those seeking some extra space. The top choice – the Private Bungalow Suite – includes a living area and is very much a home away from

home. Children under seven stay free in all rooms and extra beds are also available for a small fee. The outdoor swimming pool and shaded deckchairs provide respite from the heat, while a hearty breakfast buffet greets guests in the mornings. Free Wi-Fi, safe deposit boxes, laundry, massage and a host of other services are available. A charitable aspect to the hotel exists also. My Boutique Dream Resort is beginning to rebuild a school in a village one hour’s drive south of Luang Prabang. 220 students here are dependent on the resort to reconstruct this and by staying here, you’re actively contributing to this important activity. Prices range from US$55-82 for the Classic and Deluxe rooms, and from US$78-150 for the Garden Bungalows. My Dream Boutique Resort A: Ban Meung Nga, Meung Nga Street, Luang Prabang T: +856 71 252853 or 252198 W: www.mydreamresort.com

ມາຍ ດຣີມ ບູຕິກ ຣີຊອດ ຕັ້ງ ຢູ່ 600 ມ ​ຫ່າ ງຈາກໃຈກາງເມື ອ ງ, ຣີ ຊ ອດແຫ່ງ ນີ້ ຖື ກ ຈັດ ວາງຢ່າ ງລົງ ໂຕໃນສະຖານທີ່ງ ຽບ ສະຫງົບ ຕິ ດ ກັບ ສາຍນ້ຳ�ຄານຂອງຫຼວງພະບາງ. ຄລາດຊິ ກ ແອັ ນ ດີ ລັກ ກາເດິນດຣີມ (Classic and Deluxe Garden Dream’s)​ ມີ ​ຫ້ອ ງ​ທີ່ຖື ກ ຈັດ ວາງຢ່າ ງສົມ ບູ ນ ແບບ ແລະ ສະບາຍໆ ທີ່ປິ່ນໜ້າໃສ່ສວນ. ນອກຈາກນີ້ ບັງກະໂລແບບບູຕິກສ່ວນຕົວ ຍັງ ແມ່ນ ທາງເລື ອ ກແບບເຕັ ມ ອີ່ມ ສຳ�ລັບ ຄູ່ຮັກ ແລະ ຜູ້ທີ່​ ສະແຫວງຫາສະຖານທີ່ອັນພິເສດນຳ�ອີກ. ສະລອຍນ້ຳ�ກາງແຈ້ງ ແລະ ຕັ່ງ ນອນພັກ ຜ່ອ ນໃນຮົ່ມ ກາຍ​ ເປັນບ່ອນຫຼົບຈາກອາກາດຮ້ອນ ແລະ ມີອາ ຫານແບບບຸບເຟ ທີ່ໃ ຫ້ກັນ ແບບຈິ ງ ໃຈ ທັກ ທາຍບັນ ດາແຂກໃນຕອນເຊົ້າ .​ ມີ Wi-Fi ຟຣີ, ຕູ້ເຊບສຳ�ລັບເກັບເຄື່ອງທີ່ມຄ ີ ່າ, ບໍລກ ິ ານຊັກແຫ້ງ, ນວດ ແລະ ການບໍລິການອື່ນໆ. ລາຄາເລີ່ມຈາກ 55-150 ໂດລາ ຕໍ່ຄືນ. ມາຍ ດຣີມ ບູຕິກ ຣີຊອດ (My Dream Boutique Resort)​

ສະຖານທີ່: ບ້ານ ເມືອງງາ, ຖະໜົນເມືອງງາ, ແຂວງ ຫຼວງພະບາງ ໂທ: +856 71 252853 or 252198

ເວັບໄຊ: www.mydreamresort.com

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VILLA MALY HOTEL : Top end. $$$ A residence of charm, 33 art deco-inspired rooms are housed in seven low-rise buildings on this sprawling estate, just a short walk from the historic heart of the city. Each room is furnished with a blend of French and British colonial touches including classic adornments like hardwood floors, ornate rugs and old-world armchairs and with pool and garden views has the feel of staying in a private villa. A number of dining options are available on-site including alfresco favourite Le Vetiver Restaurant and Nava Mekong a lunch of dinner cruise on the Mekong in a private boat. Free WiFi, spa, pool. BP 158, 071 253 902, www.villa-maly.com

PAKSE

CHAMPASAK GRAND HOTEL : Top end. $$$ The is the

only high-end luxurious business class hotel in Pakse. Located on the Mekong, the hotel has 215 well-appointed rooms and suites overlooking the river, while two conference rooms means a corporate gathering couldn’t be easier. Between a coffee shop, lobby lounge and a Chinese restaurant, you won’t go hungry, and should you wish for a spa or swim, the facilities are there for the taking. Tailored to business travellers. Free Wifi, gym facilities. Lao Nippon Bridge, Mekong Riverside Rd, 031 255111, www.champasakgrand.com

PAKSE HOTEL : Mid range. $$ The first multistorey building

constructed under the supervision of the last King of Southern Laos, this hotel was originally the entertainment hub of Pakse housing a casino and cinema. Now owned and run by a FrenchLao couple the hotel blends local cultural influences with French Indochina spirit with cosy rooms and excellent service. The rooftop restaurant and its exceptional panoramic view of the city is a must-see. Street 5, Ban Watkouang, 031 212131, www. hotelpakse.com

SINOUK COFFEE RESORT : Mid range. $$ Two chalets nestled amongst of the famous Sinouk Coffee plantation and manicured gardens. Guests have the choice to stay alongside a bubbling river and small waterfall at Chalet I or closer to the plantation in Chalet II, each bungalow contains spotless private ensuite bedrooms and a shared lounge and living room and terrace but it’s so peaceful here you’d barely know you had any neighbours. Restaurant and café, serving Sinouk Coffee naturally, on-site. Tatheng – Bolaven Plateau, sinouk@laopdr.com, www. sinoukcoffeeresort.com WATERFALL RESORT BAN E-TU PAKSONG : Mid range. $ A small cluster of charming bungalows on the site of a former coffee and tea plantation just outside of Paksong. A perfect spot for rest and relaxation if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, the resort offers spotless private villas with helpful staff who can guide you on what to see, do and eat in the area. The restaurant serves traditional Lao fare made from fresh local ingredients. Evenings are tranquil so tune out and listen to the nearby waterfall run. 020 2866 2809, www. waterfalletupaksong.com

Savannakhet

SALA SAVANH : Mid range. $$ Housed in a renovated 1920s colonial building Sala Savanh sits pretty in the heart of Savannakhet historical centre. Five superior rooms are neat and tidy with high ceilings, vintage-look cane furniture and spacious balconies on the upper floor. Free WiFi. 020 5564 5111, salalao@ laotel.com, www.salalao.com/Salalao/Content/Savanh.htm LEENA GUESTHOUSE : Mid range. $ A friendly option if you’re passing through Savannakhet, Leena’s is a little off the main drag but you can rent a bike for a quick ride. There’s a variety of tidy rooms on offer for different price ranges so ask to take a look at what’s available to find one that’s right for you and your travelling budget, service is super friendly so they will be happy to help. Close to a number of cheap eats, internet cafes and the Mekong River. Free WiFi. Chaokeem Road, 020 9927 4994, www.leenaguesthouse.blogspot.com


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Breakfast in Vientiane, lunch in Pattaya? It has become faster than ever to reach the ocean from Laos, and Pattaya is quickly becoming a popular location for families, couples and groups of friends looking to access some sandy beaches and make a splash in the warm Gulf of Thailand. Apart from weekend sun-seekers making their way from Bangkok, or others flying in from around Southeast Asia, Pattaya continues to attract those set on investing in property and the luxury lifestyle this area conveniently affords. Nowhere is this more evident than right on the oceanfront. Stand anywhere on the coast and notice the procession of high-rise hotels and condominiums taking advantage of the sustained tourism and property boom by the water. Proximity to the capital is obviously the major driver of this development, but luxury living has taken a foothold here for a variety of reasons. One of these is the sailing culture which surfaced with prominence in the 1990’s. Today, Pattaya boasts the largest marina in Southeast Asia at Ocean Marina Yacht Club (www.oceanmarinayachtclub.com), and it caters for over 300 small sea-craft to larger catamarans and recreational boats. Its secure and calm location on Jomtien beach has given a huge boost to the area’s sailing reputation and attracts this class of seafarer from all over the world. Like sentinels behind it are the Ocean Portofino (www.oceanportofino.com) and Ocean San Marino (www.oceanproperty.co.th/san_marino_jomtien.php) condominium towers, which are an example of the ‘full steam ahead’ residential development in Pattaya. Offering panoramic views of the Gulf and its islands in the distance, possessing gym facilities, swimming pools and restaurants, and most importantly based in a more tranquil area than bustling downtown, these are icons of the area’s lavish living. Pattaya’s exclusivity flows over onto golf courses, wineries and rooftop restaurants as well. While the noise and heaving parties stay in the city-centre, lifestyle gems dot its edges. Silverlake Vineyard, set between Italian stuccoed buildings modelled on a Tuscan estate, is busy producing local wine and selling all manner of grape juices and jams, while the restaurant is an ideal place to pop the cork with a beautifully prepared meal. Phoenix Golf Course is one of over a dozen golf options and offers 18-holes facing the sea, which is visible over the tree-tops on the horizon. As most are here for the water, don’t miss the opportunity to visit the islets not far from shore. Koh Lan is one of the most visited and has several white sandy beaches with clear waters to swim and snorkel in. However, it’s Koh Sak and Koh Krok that really impress for this latter activity and these are a dayhaven for anyone seeking fun off the mainland. The floating market, which is the biggest man-made floating market in the world is located in Pattaya, and was constructed to represent the Northern, Central, Northeastern and Southern regions of Thailand. Small boats are available for visitors to weave through the canals linking different sections and restaurants are ubiquitous at every twist and turn, providing authentic meals for the paddling tourist to enjoy. With such a lifestyle on the doorstep of Laos, Pattaya is the most obvious choice to spend some time by the beach or get out on the open water. However, for many a quick sojourn by the ocean is not enough, and more are seizing the opportunity to make this their exclusive second home. 66

Getting There and Back Lao Airlines, Lao Central, Bangkok Airways and Thai Airways fly direct to/from Vientiane. Pattaya is 147km southeast of Bangkok and renting a car or taxi is an easy way to reach it. Buses leave Bangkok’s Eastern Bus Terminal every half-hour also. U-Tapao Airport close to Pattaya is another option to/from Bangkok.


ພັກແຮມແຄມທະເລຢູ່ພັດທະຢາ ກິ ນ ເຂົ້າ ເຊົ້າ ຢູ່ວ ຽງຈັນ ແລະ ກິ ນ ເຂົ້າ ທ່ຽ ງຢູ່ພັດ ທະຢາບໍ່? ໃນປະຈຸ ບັນ ການເດີ ນ ທາງຈາກລາວ ໄປຫາທະເລແມ່ນ ໄວກວ່າ ແຕ່ກ່ອ ນ ແລະ ພັດທະຢາກຳ�ລັງກາຍເປັນສະຖານທີ່ ທີ່ມີຊື່ສຽງຢ່າງໄວວາສຳ�ລັບ ຄອບຄົວ, ຄູ່ຮັກ ແລະ ເພື່ອນ ມິດສະຫາຍຄົນລາວທີ່ຈະຕ້ອງໄປທ່ຽວ. ພັດທະຢາຍັງຄົງສືບຕໍ່ດງຶ ດູດເອົາ ບັນດາຜູ້ສົນໃຈໃນການລົງທຶນ ດ້ານອະສັງຫາລິມະຊັບ ແລະ ວິຖກ ີ ານດຳ�ລົງຊີວດ ິ ແບບມີລະດັບທີ່ມຢ ີ ູ່ໃນສະຖານທີ່ ແຫ່ງນີ້. ປະຈຸບັນ ພັດທະຢາ ມີທ່າເ​ ຮືອ​ຢອດທີ່ໃຫຍ່ທີ່ສດ ຸ ໃນອາຊີຕາເວັນອອກສ່ຽງໃຕ້ ທີ່ ໂອເຊິນມາຣິນາຢອດຄລັບ (www.oceanmarinayachtclub.com) ທີ່ບໍລິການ ເຮືອຂະໜາດນ້ອຍຫຼາຍກວ່າ 300 ລຳ� ໄປຈົນ ເຖິງເຮືອລຳ�ຄູ່ ແລະ ເຮືອສຳ�ລານຂະໜາດໃຫຍ່. ຢູ່ດ້ານຫຼັງເຊິ່ງປຽບເໝືອນທະຫານຍາມແມ່ນຄອນໂດມິນຽມສູງ ໂອເຊິນປອດໂຕຟິໂນ (www.oceanportofino.com) ແລະໂອເຊິນຊານມາຣິໂນ (www.oceanproperty.co.th/san_marino_jomtien.php) ທີ່ມີວິວກວ້າງຂອງອ່າວ ພ້ອມດ້ວຍ ເກາະ ຕ່າງໆທີ່ຕັ້ງຢູ່ໃນໄລຍະໄກ. ຈຸດເດັ່ນສະເພາະອີກອັນໜຶ່ງຂອງພັດທະຢາ ແມ່ນສະໜາມກອບ, ໂຮງເຫຼົ້າແວັງ ແລະ ພັດຕະຄານເທິງດາດຟ້າ ເຊິ່ງເປັນໂຕເພີ່ມສະເໜ່ໃຫ້ກັບ ສະຖານທີ່ແຫ່ງນີ້. ໂດຍມີແບບການດຳ�ເນີນຊີວິດດັ່ງກ່າວຢູ່ໃກ້ປະຕູເຮືອນປະເທດລາວຂອງພວກເຮົາ, ພັດທະຢາ ກາຍເປັນທາງເລືອກທີ່ໜ້າສົນໃຈ ທີ່ສຸດ ສຳ�ລັບການພັກຜ່ອນແຄມຫາດຊາຍ ຫຼື ລົງຫຼິ້ນເຕັມອີ່ມໃນນ້ຳ�ທະເລ.

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The Ephemeral City

Arts Scene

story and photos Ian Lacey On November 2nd a new art exhibition entitled ‘Éphémères’ opens at i:Cat Gallery in Vientiane. The exhibit, which runs until November 24th, showcases the work of Marie-Do Hyman-Boneu, a French lacquer artist expressing her own vision of Vientiane and Laos.

ເມືອງ​ຊົ່ວຄາວ ​ໃນ​ວັນ​ທີ 2 ພະຈິກ, ຈະ​ມີ​ງານ​ວາງສະ​ແດງ​ສີ​ລະ​ປະ​ແບບ​ໃຫມ່​ມີ​ ຊື່ວ່າ: ‘Éphémères’ ທີ່​ເປີດ​ຢູ່​ທີ່​ຮ້ານ iCat Gallery ຢູ່​ທີ່​ວຽງ​ຈັນ. ງານ​ວາງສະ​ແດງ​ດັ່ງກ່າວຈະ​ເປີດ​ໄປ​ຈົນ​ເຖິງ​ວັນ​ທີ 24 ພະຈິກ,​ ເປັນ​ງານ​ວາງສະ​ແດງ​ງານ​ສີລະ​ປະ​ຂອງ​ທ່ານ ນ. Marie-Do Hyman-Boneu, ສີນລະ​ປິນແຕ້ມ​ຮູບ​ສີ​ນ້ຳ�ມັນຊາວ​ຝຣັ່ງ ທີ່​ສະ​ ແດງ​ວ​ໄ ິ ສ​ທັດ​ຂອງຕົນກ່ຽວກັບນະຄອນ​ຫລວງວຽງ​ຈັນ ແລະປະ​ເທດ​ ລາວຜ່ານ​ງານ​ສີລະ​ປະ​ຂອງ​​ເພີ່ນ.

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Marie-Do leads me into her studio, shelves stacked top-heavy with brushes, pigments, sanders and pieces of old art, some finished and some awaiting attention. It’s a space where a unique art form – long departed from Laos – takes shape and physical form. “I learned the technique of lacquer painting in Vietnam, as I was very curious about it and knew I wanted to study it more,” MarieDo says, donning her apron to show me the delicate painting process. “But now, living in Vientiane gives me more space and time to work hard. In Western countries, it can be difficult to become an artist like this.” Marie-Do gives the lacquer 101 lesson. She explains that when it is taken from the tree, it can be treated in several ways. The sap needs to be boiled but if it is stirred with metal it takes on a black colour, but if not, it stays a maple brown, but always to a syrup consistency. The pigments then change the tones of the remaining lacquer and from there it is the combinations, shapes and work style on the board that gives the painting definition, and the artist’s character and personality. “Notice that in all the countries around Laos, from Vietnam to Burma and Thailand, lacquer art exists. In Laos, where it used to be a part of life, it’s now gone. Those artists aren’t in the country anymore,” she explains. “The temples used to have lacquer work on them, in the gold leaves and other motifs, but now this is lost.” As for Marie-Do’s upcoming Éphémères exhibition, there’s an interesting and personal story behind it. She says that she takes inspiration from the beauty of a transitory moment or a lifecycle, much like that of a butterfly, whose delicate features are reflected passionately in her work. “When I first moved to Vientiane, things were very different. Don Chan Island, which has now seen huge development, was a series of villages, vegetable fields, nature and farmers. There was even a Gustav Eiffel bridge crossing to it close to Thadeua Road. It’s all gone now, almost in an instant.” Marie-Do clearly feels this is not just an observance to her, but it’s also attached to deep emotion. Rooted in memory, the exhibition now reflects in an abstract way the passage of time in Vientiane from when she moved here in 2010 until the present. “I could work for years and keep producing pieces but this feels like the right time to place my snapshot out there. I’ll have about 13 pieces on show and for me the presence of the butterfly lacquers will be more important. These are the big pieces and they reflect everything else the exhibit says.” In a city where the international community is to a large degree transient, Éphémères is a chance to experience the changing nature of Vientiane and Laos through another’s eyes, and in physical, lacquer form. It will be open for a mere four weeks so make sure not to miss out. Éphémères opens on November 2nd at 4pm in i:Cat Gallery. It runs until November 24th and is open from 4pm-8pm every day. Visit Marie-Do’s website at www.mdolacquer.com About the Gallery i:Cat Gallery is a bright and inviting space featuring a revolving programme of engaging exhibitions from local artists working in a range of mediums. A collection of original prints, art books, photography, paintings and handmade cards are permanently for sale in the gallery and past installations and events have included visual art, music, poetry, film and fashion. i:Cat Gallery Setthathirath Rd, Ban Simuang (Between Nudle Take-Away & SoHo Si Muang) www.facebook.com/icatgallery

ທ່ານນ. Marie-Do ກ່າວ​ວ່າ: “ຂ້າພະ​ເຈົ້າສຶກສາ​ເຕັກນິກ​ການ​ແຕ້ມ​ຮບ ູ ດ້ວຍ​ ສິນ້ຳ�ມັນຢູ່ຫວຽດນາມ, ດ້ວຍ​ຄວາມ​ທີ່​ຂ້າພະ​ເຈົ້າເປັນຄ ​ ົນມ ​ ັກຮ ​ ຽນ​ຮູ້​ກ່ຽວກັບ​ ງານ​ສລ ິ ະ​ປະດັ່ງກ່າວແລະມີ​ຄວາມ​ຮູ້​ສກ ຶ ວ່າຂ້າພະ​ເຈົ້າ​ຕ້ອງການ​ທີ່​ຈະ​ສກ ຶ ສາ​ ໃຫ້​ເລິກ​ເຊິ່ງກວ່າ​ເກົ່າ”,ຈາກ​ນັ້ນ​ເພິ່ນກໍ່​ໃສ່​ເສື້ອ​ກັນ​ເປື້ອນ ​ແລະລົງມື​ແຕ້ມ​ຮບ ູ ​ ເພື່ອນຳ ​ �​ສະ​ເຫ​ນີຂັ້ນຕ ​ ອນ​ການ​ແຕ້ມໃ ​ ຫ້ຂ້າພະ​ເຈົ້າ​ເບິ່ງ. “ສັງ​ເກດ​ໄດ້ວ່າທຸກໆ​ປະ​ເທດທີ່ຢູ່ອ້ອມ​ຂ້າງ ສປປ ລາວ, ບໍ່​ວ່າ​ຈະເປັນ​ ປະ​ເທດຫວຽດນາມ ​ໄປ​ຈົນ​ເຖິງ​ມຽນມາ ​ແລະໄທລ້ວນ​ແຕ່​ມີ​ງານສິລະ​ປະ​ ​ສີ​ນ້ຳ�ມັນ. ສໍາລັບປະ​ເທດລາວ, ​ໃນ​ເມື່ອ​ກ່ອນ​ ງານ​ສິລະ​ປະ​ດັ່ງກ່າວ​ນີ້ຖື​ ເປັນ​ສ່ວນ​ຫນຶ່ງ​ໃນການ​ດຳ�​ລົງຊີວດ ິ ຂອງປະຊາຊົນ ​ແຕ່​ວ່າ​ໃນ​ປະຈຸ​ບັນ​ນີ້ມັນ​ ສູນຫາຍ​ໄປ​ແລ້ວ.” ທ່ານນ. Marie-Do ຮັບ​ຮູ້​ໄດ້​ຢ່າງ​ຈະ​ແຈ້ງວ່າງານ​ສິລະ​ປະດັ່ງກ່າວ​ນີ້ບໍ່ພຽງ​ ແຕ່ເ ປັ ນ ການສັງ ​ເກດ​​ເບິ່ງ ​ໂລກ​ອ້ອ ມ​ຂ້າ ງ​ເທົ່າ ​ນັ້ນ , ແຕ່​ມັນຍັງ ​ເຕັ ມ ​ໄປ​ ດ້ວຍອາລົມ​ຄວາມ​ຮູ້ສກ ຶ ອັນ​ເລິກ​ເຊິ່ງນຳ�​ອກ ີ . ທຸກທັດສະນິຍະ​ພາບທີ່​ຝັງ​ເລິກ​ ຢູ່​ໃນ​ຄວາມ​ຊົງ​ຈຳ� ​ໄດ້​ຖືກ​ນຳ�​ມາ​ວາງສະ​ແດງ​ໃນງານ​ວາງສະ​ແດງ​ສິລະ​ປະ​ ດັ່ງກ່າວ​ນີ້​ເຊິ່ງ​ເປັນງານສິລະ​ປະ​ແຫ່ງ​ການ​ເວລາຂອງນະຄອນຫລວງວຽງ​ ຈັນນັບຕ ​ ັ້ງແ ​ ຕ່​ວັນ​ເວລາ​ທີ່​ເພິ່ນ ໄ ​ ດ້ຍ ​ ້າຍ​ມາ​ຢທ ູ່​ ີ່​ນໃ ີ້​ ນ​ປີ 2010. “ຂ້າ ພະ​ເຈົ້າ ຈະ​ວາງສະ​ແດງ​ຜົນ ງານຈຳ�ນວນປະມານ 13 ອັນ ແລະສິ່ງ​ ສຳ�ຄັນ​ສຳ�ລັບ​ຂ້າພະ​ເຈົ້າແມ່ນໃນ​ງານ​ດັ່ງກ່າວ​ນີ້ຈະ​ມີ​ຮູບພາບສິລະ​ປະ​​ ສີ​ນ້ຳ�ມັນ​ລວດລາຍ​ແມງກະ​ເບື້ອ.ຜົນງານ​ເຫລົ່າ​ນີ້ແມ່ນຮູບ​ພາບ​ຂະຫນາດ​ ໃຫຍ່ແລະພວກ​ມັນຍັງເປັນໃຈກາງ​ຂອງ​ງານ​ວາງສະ​ແດງ​ຄັ້ງນ ​ ີ້.” ງານ Éphémères ​ເປີດ​ໃນ​ວັນ​ທີ່ 2 ພະຈິກ ​ເວລາ 6 ​ໂມງ​ແລງຢູ່​ທີ່ຮ້ານ: i : Cat Gallery. ງານ​ດັ່ງກ່າວຈະ​ເປີດ​ໄປ​ຈົນ​ເຖິງ​ວັນ​ທີ່ 24 ພະຈິກແລະເປີດ​ ໃນເວລາ 4-8ໂມງ​ແລງ ທຸກໆ​ມື້. ສາມາດ​ເຂົ້າ​ເບິ່ງລາຍ​ລະອຽດ​ເພີ່ມ​ເຕີມ​ ກ່ຽວກັບ Marie-Do’s ໄດ້ທ ​ ີ່ www.mdolacquer.com ທີ່ຢູ່ ຮ້ານ i : Cat Gallery ຖະຫນົນເ​ ສດ​ຖາ​ທິລາດ, ບ້ານ​ສເີ​ ມືອງ (ຢູ່ລະຫວ່າງ​ຮ້ານຫມີ່ & ຮ້ານໂສ​ໂຮສີ​ເມືອງ) ​ເບິ່ງລ ​ າຍ​ລະອຽດ​ເພີ່ມເ​ ຕີມ: www.facebook.com/icatgallery 69



Xishuangbanna Hotel Luang Prabang, Lao PDR

Situated where the Nam Khan meets the Mekong Rover, Xishuangbanna Hotel is the superior choice of accommodation in Luang Prabang. Earthy room interiors, a refreshing outdoor pool and proximity to the heritage city make the hotel your perfect arrival destination. Accommodation

53 Superior Rooms and 20 Deluxe Rooms are decorated in Chinese style with incredibly comfortable beds placed within a light-filled and elegant space. The facilities include: Air-Conditioning Wireless Internet Complimentary Tea & Coffee Television Mini-bar

X ishuangbanna also contains an all-day restaurant and pool bar.

Traditional Lao cuisine is served on the fringes of the pool, while Cantonese food is available for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

T o make your stay even better, the hotel has airport transfer, room service

and a meeting room. Staff are on hand 24/7 to assist and make your time a pleasant and relaxing one.

‘X ishuangbanna Hotel – the starting point for your journey into Luang Prabang’

Xishuangbanna Hotel, Bannasamphan, Road 13 North, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Tel/Fax: +856 71 211888, Email: xishuangbannahotel.lpb@gmail.com www.langxihotel.com




Winter Timetable 2013 Valid From 27 Oct 2013 To 29 Mar 2014

Departure Day

Dep

Daily Daily Daily Daily

07:35 18:35 13:50 21:50

Daily Daily

14:40 20:05

246 Daily

9:30 11:35

1357

9:00

Transfer Point Arr

Dep

Arr

International Routes AC

S

Day

Dep

QV441 QV445 QV4571 QV4575

320 320 320 320

0 0 0 0

Daily Daily Daily Daily

09:35 20:25 11:45 19:55

QV311 QV920

320 321

0 0

Daily Daily

16:40 9:40

QV533 QV921

320 321

0 0

246 Daily

14:45 18:00

QV535

320

0

1357

13:35

Flight No.

Arrival Transfer Point Arr

11:00 13:00 12:40

QV911

6:40

QV817

320

0

Daily

320

0

Daily

47

7:10

320

0

246

135

9:15

QV635

14:15

AT7

0

Daily

AT7

0

Daily

9:10 9:25 14:10 10:50

QV313 QV931

AT7 321

0 0

Daily Daily

18:50 13:00

QV811

AT7

0

47

9:50

Daily Daily

10:30 14:50

12:10

Daily

9:20

9:50

8:25 13:10

9:25 14:10

13:10

QV517 QV513

AT7 AT7

0 0

2467 Daily

10:05 14:50

10:30

QV515

AT7

0

135

11:50

6:30 9:30

7:45 11:00

135

7:20

8:10

PKZ PNH

9:15 11:55 9:00

AT7

0

Daily

7:20

8:10

VTE

9:30

320

0

246

18:40

19:30

VTE

0:10

AT7 A320/AT7

0 0

2467 Daily

10:05 14:50

11:05 15:45

PKZ PKZ

QV513 QV931

AT7 321

0 0

Daily Daily

14:50 17:10

15:45

PKZ

QV223

AT7

0

Daily

13:05

14:35

ZVK

8:50

9:40

LPQ

13:15

14:15

0 0

QV812

AT7

0

QV518 QV514

AT7 AT7

0 0

QV516

AT7

0

QV224

AT7

0

QV534

320

0

13:00 16:45

13:50 18:00

QV518/QV304 QV514/QV224

AT7/A320 AT7

0 0

16:50

QV514 QV930

AT7 321

0 0

QV224

AT7

0

QV516/QV224 QV534

AT7 320

0 0

320

0

320

0

320

0

AT7/A320

0

18:30 18:35

From BANGKOK - VIENTIANE 15:15

15:45

From HOCHIMINH - VIENTIANE AT7 A320

0 0

1356 246

11:50 13:15

13:25 13:50

QV112/QV535

AT7/320

0

1357

13:35

15:15

QV112/QV533 QV104/QV911 QV111/QV635

PKZ PNH

16:45 14:45

18:00 16:10

From SINGAPORE - VIENTIANE VTE

17:10

17:50

QV536/QV103

From PHNOMPENH - VIENTIANE AT7/320

0

246

14:45

16:10

VTE

17:10

17:50

QV534/QV103

From INCHEON - VIENTIANE 320

0

Daily

7:45

11:10

From VIENTIANE - CHIANGMAI 12356

AT7 321

From SIEMREAP - VIENTIANE

QV515 QV533

10:50 12:25

6:40

QV314 QV930

13:50

13:15

From VIENTIANE - INCHEON Daily

0

From SIEMREAP - VIENTIANE

QV517 QV303/QV513

12:00

11:00

AT7

14:35

13:05

From VIENTIANE - PHNOMPENH 26

QV634

From HOCHIMINH - VIENTIANE QV533

14:10 16:20

12:40

0

13:25

From VIENTIANE - SINGAPORE VTE

AT7

From HOCHIMINH - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - HOCHIMINH 135 246

QV636

11:05 15:45

From VIENTIANE - BANGKOK ZVK

0

9:50

From VIENTIANE - SIEMREAP PKZ

320

From SIEMREAP - VIENTIANE

QV223

12:25 PKZ PKZ

QV882

From JINGHONG - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - SIEMREAP 7:45 12:10

0

From BANGKOK - VIENTIANE

12:00

6:30 11:20

320

19:50 14:00

From VIENTIANE - HOCHIMINH

2467 Daily

QV818

From HANOI - VIENTIANE

18:10 20:25

11:55

0

11:55

10:05

From VIENTIANE - BANGKOK

246

320

From BANGKOK - VIENTIANE QV633

9:20

10:30

QV912

16:20

15:20

From VIENTIANE - HOCHIMINH

Daily

0

From CHIANGMAI - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - SIEMREAP 8:25 13:10

320

18:40

17:10

From VIENTIANE - JINGHONG

2467 Daily

QV536

11:20

10:40

From VIENTIANE - HANOI 17:10 19:25

0 0

11:10

7:45

From VIENTIANE - BANGKOK

Daily Daily

320 321

From GUANGZHOU - VIENTIANE QV881

16:10

7:40

QV534 QV920

15:15

From VIENTIANE - CHIANGMAI

Daily

0 0

From KUNMING - VIENTIANE

9:50

13:15

320 321

From INCHEON - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - GUANGZHOU

Daily

QV312 QV921

From SINGAPORE - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - KUNMING

13:10

0 0 0 0

16:10 19:20

From VIENTIANE - INCHEON

246

320 320 320 320

From VIENTIANE - PHNOMPENH

From VIENTIANE - SINGAPORE

7:20

QV442 QV446 QV4570 QV4574

17:50 10:45

From VIENTIANE - PHNOMPENH

Daily

S

From HANOI - VIENTIANE

15:50 21:05

0:10

AC

Flight No.

10:35 21:25 12:55 21:05

From VIENTIANE - HANOI

Daily

Arr

From VIENTIANE - BANGKOK

From VIENTIANE - BANGKOK 08:35 19:35 14:55 22:55

Dep

VTE

12:10

12:55

QV912/QV101

From CHIANGMAI - VIENTIANE AT7

0

Daily

15:20

16:20

LPQ

18:40

19:30

QV636/QV104


Winter Timetable 2013 Valid From 27 Oct 2013 To 29 Mar 2014

Departure Day

Dep

12356 Daily Daily

8:50 12:10 17:10

Daily

10:30

Transfer Point Arr

Dep

Arr

Domestic Routes AC

S

Day

Dep

QV111 QV101 QV103

AT7 320 320

0 0 0

12356 Daily Daily

7:20 13:45 18:40

QV513

AT7

0

Daily

16:50

Flight No.

Departure Transfer Point Arr

18:30

9:55

QV901

MA60

0

Daily

10:25

11:20

12:40

QV501

MA60

0

Daily

13:10

14:30

14:00

15:25

QV601

MA60

0

Daily

15:55

11:10

16:50

11:40

QV401

AT7

0

Daily

12:20

6:30 6:30 11:20

12345 12345 Daily

6:00 13:40 6:30

12:50

PKZ

9:20

9:20

MA60

0

QV502

MA60

0

QV602

MA60

0

QV402

AT7

0

0 0 0

Daily

13:00

13:50

QV304

320

0

Daily

16:45

18:00

QV224

AT7

0

QV203 QV205 QV517/QV223

AT7 AT7 AT7

0 0 0

12345 12345 Daily

9:30 17:30 15:15

QV204 QV206 QV224

AT7 AT7 AT7

0 0 0

QV224

AT7

0

From SAVANNAKHET - VIENTIANE

9:50

15:45

PKZ

16:45

10:30 18:30 18:00

From SAVANNAKHET - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - SAVANNAKHET Daily

QV902

AT7 AT7 320

From VIENTIANE - SAVANNAKHET

7:45

0

QV515 QV517 QV303

7:45 7:45 12:10 7:00 14:40 9:50

AT7

From PAKSE - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - PAKSE 135 2467 Daily

QV514

From XIENGKHUANG - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - XIENGKHUANG Daily

0 0 0

From LUANGNAMTHA - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - LUANGNAMTHA Daily

AT7 320 320

From OUDOMXAY - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - OUDOMXAY 11:50

QV112 QV102 QV104

From HOUEISAY - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - HOUEISAY

Daily

S

From PAKSE - VIENTIANE

12:10

9:00

AC

Flight No.

8:10 14:30 19:30

From VIENTIANE - PAKSE

Daily

Arr

From LUANGPRABANG - VIENTIANE

From VIENTIANE - LUANGPRABANG 9:40 12:55 17:40

Dep

QV223

AT7

Remarks : All times are local times 1 = Monday, 2 = Tuesday, 3 = Wednesday, 4 = Thursday, 5 = Friday, 6 = Saturday, 7 = Sunday * QV4570/ QV4571/ QV4574/ QV4575 Operated by THAI AIRWAYS * QV920/ QV921/ QV930/ QV931 Operated by VIETNAM AIRLINES

0

Daily

15:15

15:45

IMPORTANT NOTICE

All schedules/types of aircraft and information are subject to change without notice and to government approval. For more information, please contact any Lao Airlines reservation office. 02 Pangkham Rd, P.O. Box 6441 Vientiane , Lao P.D.R Tel: +856 212051-54 Fax: +856 21 212056, 212058 Revise W13-02


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