Sabaidee - Lao lifestyle & travel magazine issue 29 by Sabaidee Magazine

DIRECTOR’S

NOTE                                                  Facebook.com/sabaideemagazine   editor@sabaidee-magazine.com   ຜູອຳນວຍການ

Dear Readers, Our world is changing so quickly that we almost can’t keep up, and when we do catch up, we are exhausted. When our lives become weak, we must rest and recover. Our Buddhist culture leads us to entering temples, paying homage to the Buddha, praying for blessings, meditating, or simply resting in the cool shade of the temple, which will help us relax and unwind. In this month’s cover story, we show off 25 temples in Laos which are good for visiting for various goals, including making merit, paying homage to the Buddha, or just visiting. Turn the pages to find out which temples these are. We have various interesting tourism articles in this issue for you to read. Beginning near Vientiane Capital, it’s possible to drive on weekends to Ban Hat Khai in Bolikhamxay Province to visit the Phou Khao Khouay National Protected Area in order to trek in the forest, play in waterfalls, sleep in a homestay, and eat delicious food prepared by villagers, which will leave smiles in your heart and stomach. Farther afield, we have a travel documentary on Trang, a southern Thai province on the Andaman coast. We don’t just invite you to jump into the ocean or go snorkeling among

the coral, but we also want to give you a taste of dim sum and grilled pork for breakfast in Trang style, which is a traditional food unlike anywhere else. In any case, speaking of food in the Sabaidee Guide To, we can’t forget our national food: tum (spicy salads), which includes various types of salads and the restaurants you can find them in. I hope that you enjoy the articles and photos that we have created in this issue of Sabaidee. Don’t forget to follow us on our Facebook page at facebook. com/sabaideemagazine and we thank you for your feedback and comments. Best of luck! Phanhlakhone Syboonheung The Director

contents

Sabaidee Cover

volume 4 issue 29 july 2015

 : 

 

     

Delightful Laos

Sabaidee Guest

Cover : The big buddha facing towards the Mekong River and the city of Pakse at Wat Phou Sa Lao in Champasak Province Photo by Gaid Phitthayakornsilp

SBD Guide To

Weekend Escape

Also Regulars 6

12 What's On 31 Coffee Highlight 38 Wellness Directory 54 See & Do Directory

ASEAN Connect

28 Eat & Drink Directory 33 Table Highlight 46 Shop Directory 56 Sleep Directory

contributors Gaid Kornsilapa Gaid has been in the media industry since he graduated from Faculty of Art at Silpakorn University in Thailand in 1994. He was a part of the filmmaking crew in several household name movies, a screen writer for documentary programs and a columnist for a daily newspaper in Thailand. He is now a travel writer/ blogger at jiggotravel.com, photographer, a graphic designer, a translator, and travel editor for several publications.

j                     8

Ian Lacey

Ian has lived and worked in Laos for almost three years. He began at Vientiane Times newspaper, where he was a sub-editor, before moving on to edit Sabaidee Magazine for which he is still a contributor. Before moving to Laos, Ian cycled 27,000 km from Alaska to Argentina for charity, writing and filming documentaries as he travelled. Inspired by the open spaces and wilderness of the Americas, he eventually found his way to the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), where he loves to write about the species, conservation and people of this wonderful country.

Consultants Pattarapong Kongvijit Manachai Inkaew Director

Phanhlakhone Syboonheung Editorial Director Gaid Phitthayakornsilapa Lao Editor Khamsouan Chanthalat English Editor Roger Gazel Sales & Marketing Director Chayada Ariyaphoncharoen Marketing Executive Soudthidaphone Phetpada Reporter Thepphavongsone Bouapha Layout Design Khamphanh Vongsa

Saynam Menorath

Saynam has lived and work in Japan for over 10 years. After returning to Laos he has worked in creative, marketing and hospitality. He's an avid fan of Asian cuisine and all things Mark Burnett.



     

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/ Tel : + 856 21 454782, +856 20 5516 2440  / Mob: +856 20 5884 8376, +66 83 018 4076 ( Thai ) / Editor Email: editor@sabaidee-magazine.com / Sales Email: chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com

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Treasure Group Laos

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WHAT’S ON

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Art-Themed Luxury Stays Luxury hotel group partners with local artists to curate cultural experiences

  

With its new “Art of Design” initiative launching this month, GHM is ushering hotel guests into the workshops of stone masons and jewellers, onto the chair in painters’ studios and into the tents of Bedouins. Each of the GHM luxury hotels below has crafted a two-night minimum stay package highlighting the local art scene: The Chedi Andermatt, Switzerland - A soapstone workshop led by a father and son team whose family name has been synonymous with masonry in the region for over three centuries. The Chedi Muscat, Oman - A “glamping” excursion to the Wahiba Sands desert where Bedouin women, renowned for their weaving skills, share their generations of knowledge. The Nam Hai Hoi An, Vietnam - A personal portrait painted by Vietnamese artist Linh Ho in his signature ‘spontaneous realism’ style. The Chedi Club Tanah Gajah, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia - Taking brush to canvas, under the tutelage of noted Balinese artists, to capture the natural beauty and majestic sculptures of the private retreat of one of Indonesia’s foremost architects. The Legian Bali, Indonesia – An artcentric tour including a private visit to the 12

workshop of luxury jeweller John Hardy, including normally restricted access to the design centre and jewellery archive, followed by an al fresco lunch with the designers and management team. “GHM has long drawn design inspiration from each of our hotel’s locations,” said Clement Koh, senior vice president of sales and marketing. “With this new initiative, we are not only continuing our legacy of involving the local community in an integrated and meaningful way, but sharing and connecting guests to each destination’s diverse arts and cultural offering, thereby enabling a genuine experiential travel experience.” Art of Design experiences vary in length, price and inclusions from US$2,550 for a memorable three-night stay at The Nam Hai with a portrait to take home, to The Chedi Andermatt’s ultra-luxe Gemsstock Suite stay for two nights with a chance to experience the natural landscape in more ways than one. Availability of the respective hotels’ packages are based on seasonality, some starting from mid-June. Enquire directly with each resort for details or email info@ghmhotels.com.

  Executive Retreat Package           LED  Wi-Fi                        Executive Retreat Package   +   ichh.rsvn@ihg. com www.huahin.intercontinental.com

Mr. Souksan PHAKASY, Director of Tourism Division, Luang Namtha Provincial Information, Culture and Tourism Department, and his staff, gave a warmly welcome to the editorial team from Sabaidee Magazine on their arrival to Luang Namtha province on July 13, 2015.

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Hilux REVO 

 TOYOTA “Hilux REVO”        TOYOTA Hilux   TOYOTA Hilux Vigo Champ           TOYOTA Hilux  Hilux       “Hilux REVO ”   Hilux REVO  Hilux REVO   Hilux     

           SUV          

Standard – Cab

  Hilux      13

DELIGHTFUL LAOS WiTH ]k;gfu ovkdkf

LAO SKYWAY LAO SKYWAY

 7;k,i6hlbdmujgduod;jkdkogfuomk' mk'vkdkf

SENSATION BEYOND AIR TRAVEL

 DOMESTIC AIRLINES VTE - Luang Prabang VTE - Oudomxay VTE - Luang Namtha VTE - Huoiexay VTE - Xiang Khuang

DOMESTIC AIRLINES VTE - Phongsaly VTE - Huaphan

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Asean road, T2, P.O. 6618 Vientiane Capital, Lao P.D.R

Tel/Fax: ( 856 - 21 ) 512 027 www.laoskyway.com

 Lao Skyway                                  

                     

           Lao Skyway          www.laoskyway.com

Visiting Luang Namtha Asking for Blessings from 2 Holy Stupas DELIGHTFUL LAOS WITH Lao Skyway in this issue takes us to Luang Namtha, in northwest of the country. In addition to being a destination for travellers who enjoy experiencing tribal lifestyles and lush nature in the misted forests and mountains, Luang Namtha is also historically and religiously important. Come with us to two important holy stupas in the area. The first is Phra That Luang Namtha, or as locals call it: Phra That Mixay, located in Ban Xaysomboun in Luang Namtha District. It is a unique cultural tourist site for the people in this outstanding region. It was built by joining the effort and heart of the people of Luang Namtha, whose Buddhist faith enabled them to complete it in 2007. Every February, there is a festival to celebrate the stupa. It is located on top of a mountain, which makes for incredibly scenic views of the area. If you walk to the rear of the stupa, you will find a reclining Buddha and a hermit cave, both worshipped by the local people. The second stupa, located about 7 km outside of Luang Namtha city in a village called Ban Nam Ngaen, is called Phra That Poum Pouk. It is a very old monument and was built in 1628, in order to be a commemoration of friendship between Houa Tha and Chieng Saen districts. In 1966, during the war, Phra That Poum Pouk was bombed and partially destroyed. It remained in this condition until locals got together and built a new stupa in 2002, next to the old one. The area around the stupa is shaded and there is a pavilion for enjoying the view of beautiful rice fields. From here, it’s also possible to easily watch aircraft taking off from and landing at the airport. Lao Skyway operates return flights from Wattay International Airport in Vientiane Capital to Luang Namtha 3 times per week on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Contact for more information or to book a ticket by calling 1441 or via the website www.laoskyway.com.

with Benefits * Fly Fly with Lao Skyway From Vientiane Capital to Luangnamtha

starts from 399,000 LAK

* ບິນສຸດຄຸມກັບລາວເດີນອາກາດ ບິນກົງຈາກນະຄອນຫລວງວຽງຈັນສູ  າ ເລີ່ມຕົ້ນພຽງ

399,000 ກີບ

Call Center: 1441 www.laoskyway.com

Head office Asean Road, P.O. 6618, Vientiane Capital, Lao P.D.R

Tel / Fax : (+856 21) 512 027 Email : info@laoskyway.com

SABAIDEE GUEST

Words & photos Gaid P. Kornsilapa

                    

                                                

                                         

                 

Vilayvone Soumpholphakdy Chairman of VLV Company, Experts in Energy

Energy is important for people in every country. They rely on energy to drive every activity from waking up until going to bed at night. Energy is also an important factor in leading a country to prosperity and progress. That reason inspired Vilayvone Soumpholphakdy to look into investment opportunities in this area. He transformed from being an immigration police officer at the international border in Savannakhet to opening VLV Company, which carries out energy and electricity development projects. “I was determined to work in energy for a long time, because it creates benefits for our nation. The government promotes the idea that “Laos will be the battery of Asia”. The government wants to develop Lao people to be owners of energy-related activities. If we don’t have to rely on foreign countries, it will be a good thing,” says Vilayvone. Currently, VLV Company, of which Vilayvone is the chairman, is currently involved with the Nam Ngum 4 Dam, which is in the surveying and reporting phase to the government. It is expected that, when finished, it will be a dam that can produce up to 240 megawatts of electricity. Besides hydroelectric power, Vilayvone is interested in investing in wind power.

“Right now, I am requesting permission from the Ministry of Planning and Investment in order to study the feasibility of this. Wind power has not yet been tried by anyone, so I have proposed this to the government. There was a survey done in 2008 which found that in Xeno and Outhoumphone districts in Savannakhet Province there were favourable winds,” Vilayvone remarks. Gas stations are other energy businesses that strongly interest Vilayvone, ever since the first time he used a PTT filling station in Thailand. He experienced good service and learned that PTT was the number one gasoline brand in Thailand for over 60 years. Afterwards, he invested in a PTT Lao filling station in Savannkhet, which opened for business not long ago. Currently PTT Lao filling stations have received acclaim throughout the country. With experience, expert analysis, and an efficient team, Vilayvone also works as an investment advisor for foreigners, especially on Laos’ many Special Economic Zones. He says that foreigners currently investing in Laos are particularly interested in energy businesses because they are so easily approved, as the government supports this kind of investment. Vilayvone comments that the general

economy of Laos in the near future is set to progress a great deal. “The economy will improve and progress greatly. Anyone who is interested can come and invest, because our country is peaceful. Everyone is interested. Whoever comes first, naturally, will have the advantage. When it’s gone, it’s gone, because resources can’t last forever,” he says. In addition to the energy industry, Vilayvone also feels that the real estate industry has a bright future. He has already invested in a service apartment and an office building in Savannakhet. The success of his business is brought about by different factors, but the important roots that help the business operate steadily are honesty and truthfulness in the work in order to build confidence and trust. “I have many friends and know many investors. We exchange lessons and experiences together. I have also studied the analysis of the pros and cons of decision-making, but the most important part of operating a business is that you must be honest and truthful in your work. If you can, then you will. If you can’t, then you won’t. Then it will be successful,” Vilayvone concludes.

SABAIDEE SPOTLIGHT

Words & photos Editorial Team

 

 

24 Beautiful Temples to Visit in Lao P.D.R.            

Buddhism has been the national religion of Laos since ancient times. Wats (temples) are important religious places related to our ways of life, from birth to death. Entering the temple, in addition to paying homage to the Buddha, reflecting on the Dharma, and making merit to improve fortune in our lives, is a way to learn about life, art, culture, and the rich interesting history of Laos.



Luang Namtha Province

      

Wat Pra That Luang Namtha This is a stupa that was built by the faith of the Luang Namtha people who have a strong faith in Buddhism. Built in 2007, the stupa is beautifully gilded and is celebrated each year in February. The stupa is also outstanding because it stands on a mountain with many beautiful views of Luang Namtha.

 Luang Prabang Province 2                

Wat Xieng Thong

The sanctuary here is an outstanding example of the glory of the Xieng Thong civilization with its beautiful Lane Xang architecture. It was built during the reign of Saysetthathirath and stands in a majestic location on the Mekong riverside. There are also colorful glass mosaics on the walls showing how people lived. At the Lao New Year each year, there is a procession of Miss New Year and Phou Nyeu Nya Nyeu (ancestor spirits of Luang Prabang) who come to wash Buddha images and take part in religious events as passed down through the ages. 21





Wat Visounnarath

           

Wat Visounnarath was built in 1503 by Visounnarath, the king who ruled Luang Prabang during that period. It is an ancient temple. Inside the temple, there is a stupa with the special distinction of its special shape – like a watermelon cut in half. The local people call it the Watermelon Stupa. In the past, it was also a religious art museum, and it housed the Prabang Buddha statue.

      

Wat Senesoukharam Wat Senesoukharam is another old temple and is quite beautiful and traditional. It is in the heart of Luang Prabang. In the early morning each day, 400-500 monks walk past on their daily alms round in a long line. There are also locals and tourists wearing beautiful sinhs (traditional Lao skirts) preparing to give alms, which is another way of life of this World Heritage city that you should experience.

5       

Wat Phon Phao Wat Phon Phao was erected on the top of a small mountain in the vicinity of Ban Phanom. When you climb to the top of the temple, you can see beautiful views of Luang Prabang and the Khan River. Inside the temple are many levels with painted walls telling various stories.

6 

       

Wat Chomphet

Wat Chomphet is another old temple and is a spot where another scenic view over Luang Prabang city are possible. It is located in Xieng Mene on the Mekong riverside. When you ride a boat across the river and stand at the scenic viewpoint in Wat Chomphet, you can see striking views of both sides of the river along with Phousi and Luang Prabang city.

 Houaphan Province

7  

    

Wat Sibounheuang Xayaram (Pra Ong Teu) Wat Sibounheuang Xayaram is located in an outstanding position atop a tall hill and is surrounded by nature that is quite beautiful. This has made the area a great viewpoint to gaze over Sam Neua. You can see everything in the city as well as pay homage to the Pra Chao Ong Teu Buddha image to receive blessings.



Xieng Khouang Province



          

Wat Phiavat

Wat Phiavat is in Ban Phiavat in the center of Muang Khoun. It is an ancient temple in the Phouan city. It is at least 700 years old. Even though this temple suffered destruction during various wars, currently it is being restored again. The Buddha image and old sanctuary are preserved so that you can see the scars left by war and so it can be studied by future generations.

     

That Foun That Foun is located in Ban Si Phom in the middle of Muang Khoun. It is said that when the Buddha died, parts of his body were given to Buddhists to worship and place into stupas, but people from Xieng Khouang arrived too late and all that was left was dust. So, they brought it back and put it inside a stupa in the middle of the Phouan city. Every year at Lao New Year, the Phouan people splash water and wash Buddha images in the area of That Foun.

 Vientiane Province

       

11 Wat Sisoumang Xayaram (Pra Thong Sam Si) Phra Thong Sam Si is located in Ban Ling Xan in Thoulakom District. It is a sacred Buddha image and a center of faith for the local people along the Ngum River. Inside the temple is an ancient boat, that was only recently discovered near the Ngum, and is believed to be about 200-300 years old. It is a famous place where rowers race their long boats. This is a tradition that has been carried out by the people of Ling Xan throughout the ages.

        

Wat Pa Phou Khao Khouay This is located in the Phou Khao Khouay National Protected Area, covering over 2000 hectares. From the entrance to the temple is about 5km. Passing scenic views of the lush Phou Khao Khouay jungle there is a footprint of the Buddha, as well as a large Buddha image with a height of almost 30 meters for you to worship. There are also large shady trees covering everything. It’s in the same direction as Wat Phrabat Aew Khan.

 Vientiane Capital

12         

Prathat Luang Vientiane Prathat Lokachoulamany or Prathat Luang is the spiritual center of all the Lao people. It is a showpiece for tourists to visit. It is a gathering place for the Lao people, especially during the twelfth lunar month (usually in November) at the That Luang Festival. This festival is the largest spectacle in Laos and lasts a full 7 days and 7 nights, complete with music, dancing, and trade fairs with many various booths. That Luang Festival shows the beautiful culture and traditions of Lao Buddhists from throughout the country.

14 Wat Pa Tham Khok Ma



          

Wat Sisaket This is the only complete remaining example of Lane Xang art. It was built in 1818 under the auspices of Chao Anouvong, the last King of the Vientiane Kingdom. Inside, there are cloisters encircling all four sides of the sanctuary. Inside each cloister wall are small Buddha images made from clay, wood, and pollen. There are a total of 6840 of these images. Above these images are 120 images adorned with jewels. Along the inside walls of the temple, there are also 2052 small Buddha images, including 276 made from silver. Outside, there is also a library made to hold the sacred Tripitaka.

                   





               

Enjoy the works of a creative sculptor who works in various styles spread out around this temple. For instance, there is a large statue of a golden Budai (Laughing Buddha) sitting gracefully in the center of the temple. Various Buddha images stand among a proud white horse, which is a symbol of this temple. The ambience is very tranquil. Also, there is a viewpoint where visitors can take in the beautiful panoramas over the Mekong.



     

     

Wat Tham Pra Leu Si

Wat Phabat Aew Khan

As the sun descends beneath the horizon or on weekends, this is another temple one should view which is also pleasant and peaceful under shady trees of varying sizes. Inside the temple is a small cave sheltering a statue of a leu si (hermit) that gives the temple its name. There is also a well of holy water and a sanctuary in traditional Lao style.

Wat Prabat Aew Khan, in addition to being a place for you to pay homage to the Buddha’s footprint and ask for blessings, it is a place to enjoy many types of symbolic statuary on a rocky areas all around. Near the temple is also the Hat Xai Khao waterfall with pavilions waiting to provide you respite on your day off.

Wat Tham Pra This is another temple in the same direction as Wat Pa Tham Khok Ma and Wat Tham Leu Si. Inside the temple is an old pavilion housing Buddha images in various positions at the mouth of a cave overlooking the Mekong. Both devotees and tourists, alike, come to regularly pay respects and take in the scenery. In addition, across the river from Wat Tham Pa is Wat Hin Mak Peng in Nong Khai Province. You have the ability to enjoy the scenery on both sides of the Mekong and see the sunset, as well.

  Bolikhamxay Province



Khammouane Province

 



               

     

Wat Prabat

The graceful, golden stupa near Route 13 South in Ban Prabat, Tha Prabat District. This temple is both holy and ancient. If you have the opportunity to pass by, you should stop and pay homage to make merit. Even with the travel to get there, you can be sure that if you ask for blessings at this temple, you will have safe travels. In addition, inside the temple is a footprint of the Buddha and a large reclining Buddha for you to worship, as well.

   Savannakhet Province Wat Prathat Ing Hang

             26

Prathat Ing Hang is a stupa said to contain a piece of the Buddha’s spine. It was created as a monument to commemorate a time when the Buddha traveled to this area and sat down to eat his daily meal against a Hang tree (Shorea siamensis), which gave the stupa its name “That Ing Hang” (The stupa of reclining against the Hang). Every year there is a religious festival at Prathat Ing Hang on the 13th, 14th, and 15th days of the waxing moon in the third lunar month (usually in February). There are also a trade fair and concerts of local culture to enjoy.

Wat Prathat Sikhottabong (Prathat Muang Kao)

Prathat Sikhottabong is a revered place and also the symbol of Khammouane Province. It’s located in Ban Sikhot in Thakhek District, outside of Thakhek city on Route 13 B approximately 6 kilometers. This ancient stupa has an outstanding location along the Mekong riverside. In addition to being a place of worship, it is also a place for recreation as it is a park for the people of Thakhek to relieve stress through exercise and watching amazing sunsets over the river.

 Champasak Province



       

Wat Phou Sa Lao

From the city of Pakse, you can clearly see this temple standing gracefully on a hilltop across the Mekong. You can travel up to see the beauty of this temple, as well as enjoying the spectacular panoramic views of Pakse city. This temple is also the birthplace of the famous local legend “Lord Bachieng and Lady Malong”.

22         

Wat Don Kho

This large Buddha image has a height of 30 meters. It stands elegantly in the center of the temple for people to worship and admire the craftsmanship of the local people, whose stone carving skills have been passed down over many generations to the present day. Especially in their carvings of Buddha images from stone, their abilities are quite beautiful and vary in style and scale. Another way to experience local ways of life of the villagers, who are connected to the river as it is their lifeblood, is by enjoying a homestay there.

             

Wat Phou Champasak

In the remains of the glorious Khmer empire, which is as old as 1,300 years, this area has now been proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage site that everyone should see once in their lives. When at the highest point of the mountain overlooking the stone galleries, you can see other stone halls of varying sizes and rows of stone pillars lining the path, along with a pond and views of natural beauty, just if you were standing on the legendary Mount Kailash in India. In the full moon of the third lunar month (usually in February) the frangipanis, some of which are almost one hundred years old, flower with white blossoms, which are a reminder that this is also the time for the large religious festival here.

 Attapeu Province



    

Wat That Choulamany Continuing onward to a land of rich natural wealth, well-known in the saying “Attapeu sells gold to get chicken”, in order to follow the footsteps of King Saysetthathirath, the brave Lao king who ruled both Xieng Thong (Luang Prabang), Chiang Mai, and Vientiane. It is conjectured that this king died in Ramalakongkan city (now Attapeu) and this stupa was built to house his remains in this temple. 27

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PICKS

Setthathirath Road letriocoffee 020 2255 3552

Xang Khoo Restaurant 68 Pangkham Road xang-khoo-restaurant 021 219 314

Xayoh Grill House Samsenthai Road xayohgrillhouse 021 261 777

Masa Spoon Café N’ Bistro

Rue Dongpalanthong, Phonesinuan 021 261 634

Merci Restaurant

Souphanouvong Road 020 77 456 664

La Signature

Paris Cocktail

Lao Kitchen

Pimenton

Rue Hengboun (opposite KP Hotel) lao-kitchen.com 021 254 332

020 5550 5305.

78 Ban Inpeng, Vat Chanh Tha makphet-restaurant.org 021 260 587

Naked Espresso

Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha ansarahotel.com 021 213 514

Saylom Road

Makphet

La Scala Italian Restaurant Ban Bounkagnom,Thadeua Rd www.lascalalao.com 021 931169

Fa Ngum Road, Baan Seetarn Neua thespirithouselaos.com 021 243 795

Dongpalan Road nakedespresso.net 021 454 631

Beung Ka-nyong, Tha Deua road Paris-Cocktail 020 78 111 008 Rue Nokeoukoumane pimentonrestaurant-vte.com 021 215 506

Sumibiyaki Torishige Restaurant Unit22, No333/02, Nongbone Village, Near Janpanese Embassy, Saysettha, Vientane

T: 020 97 575 700

Wed - Mon 5:30pm - 11:00pm / Mon - Close

Luang Prabang Aussie Sports Bar

Ban Aham, Sisouphan Road aussiesportsbarlaos.com EDITOR’S 020 22 425 499 PICKS

Bamboo Tree

Soukhaserm Road, Nam Khan riverside https://goo.gl/6zQ1RY 071 254 670

Big Tree Café

46 Ban Vat Nong bigtreecafe.com 020 77776748

Blue Lagoon Restaurant Ban Choumkhong blue-lagoon-cafe.com 020 5925 2525

Café Toui

Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong cafetoui.com 020 5657 6763

Chez Matt

Ban Vat Sene 020 77 77 94 97

Coconut Garden

Sisavangvong Road elephant-restau.com/coconutgarden 071 252 482

Couleur Café & Restaurant 86/04 Ban Vat Sene 020 2388 1771

Dao Coffee

Ban Viengkeo Dao-Coffee-Luang-Prabang 071 214 444

Delilah’s Place

Chao Fa Ngum Road 071 254 988

Dyen Sabai Restaurant & Bar Ban Phan Louang Dyensabai 020 55 104 817

Hive Bar & Restaurant

5 Kingkitsarat Road, Ban Aphay hivebarlaos.com 020 59 995 370

Icon Klub

Siphouttabath Road, Ban Xiengmouan iconklub.com 071 254 905

Indigo Café

Sisavangvong Road, Pakham Village indigohouse.la EDITOR’S 071 212 264 PICKS

Joma Bakery Café - Hua Xieng Joma Bakery Café - Nam Khan joma.biz 071-260-920

Joys Restaurant Phothisalath Road 020 5516 6575

Khaiphaen

100 Sisavang Vatana Road, Ban Wat Nong 030 51 55 221

Khmu

Salt ‘n’ Pepper

La Belle Epoque

Same Same Restaurant

Sisavangvong Road 071 212 092

Sakkaline Road 020 5552 9381

72/04 Ban Pakham 020 5953 8536

4-5 Ban Phonepheng luangsayresidence.com 071 260 891

Sit & Relax Riverside

La Casa Lao

66/6, Ban Xiengmouane Road 020 22 8 12 64

Lao Indoor Golf “N” Café Phu Vao (Opposite BCEL Bank) laoindoorgolf.com 071 253 491-2

Lao Lao Garden

Phousi Road, Ban Aphay 020-7777-4414

EDITOR’S

Le Café Ban Vat Sene

PICKS

Sakarine Road elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsene 071 252 482,

Les 3 Nagas

Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong 3-nagas.com 071 253 888

Luang Prabang Bakery

Choumkong Village, Sisavangvong Rd luangprabang-bakery-guesthouse.com 071 252 499

Mango Garden Restaurant Sisavangvong Road 020 5620 3666

Namkhong Café

Bldg. 03 Choumkhong Unit 52 071 213 049

Nava Mekong

44/3 Ban Vat Nong, Khem Khong Road villa-maly.com/Dining 020 59 285 555

Opera House Bar

Sakkarine Road operahouseluangprabang.com 071 211 040

Muang Nga Village 020 59 595 951

Sonphao

No. 59, Xatikhoumman Road 071 253 489

Tamarind Restaurant

Ban Wat Sene, Nam Khan River tamarindlaos.com 071 213 128

Tamnak Lao Restaurant Sakarinne Road tamnaklao.net 071 212 239

Tangor

House 63/3 Rue Susavangvong letangor.com 020 9560 7262

The Apsara Restaurant

Kingkitsarath Rd, Ban Wat Sene theapsara.com/bar-restaurant 071 254 670

The balcony by Lanith Ban Khoi - Nam Dong River lanith.com 071 211 040

The Bellerive Terrace

99 Baan Phonehueang, Riverfront athebellerive.com/restaurant.htm 071 260 733

The House Restaurant & Belgian Beer Bar Phousi Road 10, Aphai Village thehouselaos.com 071 255 021

The Silk Road Café

Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, Ban Saylom ockpoptok.com 071 212 597

Phou Savanh Restaurant

The Terrace

Pizza Phan Luang

The Verandah

Redbul Bar

Utopia

La Residence Phou Vao laresidencephouvao 071 212 194 Phan Luang Village 020 56 922 529

Phousi Road redbulbarluangprabang.com

Restaurant L’Elephant

Kounxoa Road, Ban Vat Nong elephant-restau.com 071 252 482

Rosella Fusion Restaurant

93 Unit 03 Phoneheuang Village burasariheritage.com 071 255 031 59/4 Soukkaseum Road, Ban Vatsene 071213 120 EDITOR’S

PICKS

Ban Aphay utopialuangprabang.com 020 2388 1771

Viewpoint Café and Restaurant

Ban Xieng Thong mekongriverview.com/en/cafe-restaurant.html 071 254 900

Kingkitsarat Road 020 77 775 753

Xiengmuan Garden Restaurant

PO Box 494, Luang Prabang saffroncoffee.com 071 254 254

Yongkhoune Restaurant

Saffron Caffe

35 Baan Xiengmuan, Sisavangvong Road 071 252 583 Sakkaline Road 071 212 342

CAFÉ HIGHLIGHT Aksone

Alisa

 The Tree House Café



  The Tree House Café No. 13, Phonthan St, Ban Thongphanthong, Vientiane Capital

                      

08:00 – 18:30

020 9777 9799 020 5555 5443

the tree house cafe

thetreehouse_cafe

                      

Having only just opened a few months ago, The Tree House Café is a new and interesting coffee spot in Vientiane Capital. It’s perfect for whoever wants to relax sipping a blend in an atmosphere that’s akin to being at home. Whether you lounge in the café or in the shade of a large tree, this coffee house is an option that needs to be checked out. Aksone, who once lived in France, and Alisa Chanthavong are a mother and daughter team who help run the café with enormous drive and inspiration. In France, Aksone sampled the tastes of innumerable pastries and learned the skills to bake them. Now she has passed this knowledge down

to her daughter. The Tree House Café has an assortment of baked goods and desserts to choose from, in addition to aromatic coffees and other beverages. As for the coffee itself, Alisa says that she uses many varieties from Thailand and Laos, and blends them together to create an aroma and flavour that suits her café’s concept. The taste of the coffee is very much different than other Vientiane coffee shops. It is worth trying the Caramel Mocha, the Cappuccino, and the Latte. As for the delicious desserts to pair with a hot drink, we recommend the Green Tea Mousse Cake, Honey Mango Cheesecake, and Blueberry Waffles. 31

SAVANNAKHET Café Chai Dee

Unit 01, Lattanalansy, Thai village cafechaidee.com 030 500 3336

Lin’s Café

Latsaphanit Rd., Xaiyaphoum Village lincafe.netau.net 020 9988 1630

Savan Coffee

Km.6, No. 9 Road,Phonsavang Neu Village 020 55 540 226

Savan I Lao Restaurant Lat Sa Von Seuk Road 020 55 891 006

CHAMPASAK Dok Mai Lao Caffe Restaurant

Le Panorama

Sinouk Coffee

Jinya Japanese Restaurant

Mekong Lanxang

Vida Bakery Cafe

Rue 24, 91 Dok-mai-lao-caffe-restaurant 020 58 447 879 No 10th Road 030 986 3785

Katuad Coffee

Corner of No 24 and 13 South Rd Katuad-Coffee 020 7799 8777

5 Bane Watlouang, Pakse Hotel hotelpakse.com 031 21 21 31 No 11th Road, Mekong Riverfront 031 254 411

Ban Lakmuang sinouk-cafe.com 031 214 716

Building 188, Rd 12, Ban Thaluang 020 29 256 632

Nadao

No. 38 Road, Corner of Road 16W 020 5550 4884

Advertise

Here your Business

CALL SABAIDEE MAGAZINE

Tel: 021 454 782 Mob: 020 5884 8376 Email: Chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com 32

TABLE HIGHLIGHT Giuseppe Peruzzi

Elisabetta Pozzoli

L’Opera

 Experience the real Italy

                                                         

                      11:30 – 14:00 18:00 – 22:00

Italian restaurants in Vientiane Capital have exploded in number in recent years. But if you look for the oldest one, Italian aficionados will point you to L’Opera near Nam Phou Fountain. At 24 years, it’s the longest-running restaurant and just might be the oldest European establishment in Vientiane as well. The owner of the restaurant, Giuseppe Peruzzi, aka Pino, recounted that he and his friend Giancarlo Pozzoli pooled their funds and opened a restaurant in 1992 because they wanted to introduce Italian food to the Lao people. Since the opening, they have received widespread acclaim. Their clientele are both Lao and foreigners working in Laos, and now there are also tourists dining as well. Elisabetta Pozzoli, Giancarlo’s daughter, who has come to help at the restaurant, now owns his shares.

To make Italian recipes, ingredients are imported from every region of Italy, especially the central provinces and the south. In addition to this, there are some dishes from the northern areas to taste. Every region of Italy has its own unique flavour and character. Some of the eatery’s notable dishes that both partners recommend are the Creamy Burrata, Australian Lamb Tenderloin with Herbs, Garlic, and Port Wine Sauce, which uses tender, juicy lamb imported from Australia, and Squid Ink Seashell Pasta with Spicy Seafood Sauce. Additionally, there are many varieties of desserts, including homemade Italian ice cream. For anyone who wants to experience real Italian cuisine, they should definitely try it here!

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SABAIDEE GUIDE TO Words Saynam Menorath Photos Gaid Kornsilapa

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                  

Abracadabra

Just like a witch grinding her herbs in the mortar to make a magic potion, a Laotian woman can do wonders with her mortar and pestle. And boy do those ladies have us under their spells. How else would you explain the crazy obsession of the people in this country over Tam maak hoong when its main ingredients consists of just Padaek or technically rotten fish sauce, fiery hot chili, and tasteless green papaya.

The Heat

Tam maak hoong which literally means pounded(Tam) papaya(Maak hoong), is known as papaya salad in English. It’s a sweat-inducing, tongue-blistering and digestive track burning dish and by the time you finished it you’d feel like you’ve just run a marathon.



                                             Capsaicin    

Prior to eating every bone in your body would likely scream no at the distinct smell (and the sight for some). Nevertheless, once it’s in your mouth, it’s as if your own mouth has betrayed all your senses completely. The heat in chili intensifies and brings all the flavors from garlic, lime and Padaek to the next level. It also has many great benefits. According to researches, Capsaicin in chili has been shown to relieve symptoms of migraine. So if that prescription for your headache is not doing the trick, a papaya salad might be just what you need.



         

Some Like it Hot

“How hot do you want it?” is usually how the conversation start after you ordered. The question is how much do you want to get burn? How numb do you want your tongue to feel afterwards? Most of the time, the answer is “Very”. Sometimes many people can’t help but wonder if Laotians are sadistic when it comes to any food with chili. Or totally masochistic depends on how you look at it. But that’s not to say that there’s no room for those who don’t like it hot. Tam maak hoong is so much more than just chili. Sure chili makes the experience that much more exciting, but the dish is choc-full of other great treats as well. Especially now.

  

Tam Mii

  

Santol salad

  

Papaya salad



Tam Wai Wai

   

Tam Khao Piek

     

Tam Khao Poun

  

Green banana salad

  

Yardlong bean salad

                             

                                

Tam 2.0

Papaya salad is undoubtedly the most famous child from the “Tam” family to ever exist. But in recent years, the young generations have inspired many new and exciting versions of this classic and people are embracing them with open mouth. Here are some of its most famous cousins: Tam maak tua or Yardlong bean salad is another option for those who do not like (gasp!) papaya or want to add some crunchiness to this dish that the long silky papaya might lack. Many people find this a refreshing change after 5 days of papaya salad. Tam maak tong or Santol salad is definitely for those who can handle both the heat and the sourness at the same time. It has everything: the heat from the chili, the sourness from the meat of the santol, and the sweetness of the central pulp of the santol. Tam maak kuay or Green banana salad: the black sheep of the family. While its cousins bring out great flavor in other ingredients, this dish does a bit of the opposite of that. The green, unripe banana’s bitter and tartness plus the waxy texture undo a lot of the magic created by lime and sugar. But this Tam excels in the smell department. For unknown reason, the fish in Padaek just goes banana when you put this fruit in. The result can be overpowering for some. But those that can get pass the smell are definitely singing different tune on this one.

The mixed child

Laotian love Tam and they also love Pho. A lot. So some food geniuses out there probably thought it’d be a great idea to put the two together and see what would happen. Well hit happened. Tam Mii which essentially is papaya salad with the papaya being replaced with Pho’s noodle, is an instant hit when it came out. Even though it has absolutely no papaya in it, the noodle more than made up for what it lacks. Other noodle-inspired hits are Tam Khao Piek, which uses an Udon-like noodle in place of Pho’s while Tam Wai Wai is as the name suggested, use the famous instant noodle brand Wai-wai. However, recent trends have seen the adding of penne, squid, shellfish into the dish which is problematic to some. If you are allergy to any of these foods, ask the cook to leave them out. Another tam worth mentioning is the softer type noodle Tam Khao Poun which actually came to the scene long before the noodle revolution. But Tam mii just took most of the spotlight in this category.



     

Let it grow

When all is said and done, Tam is definitely not easy for many first-timers. But give it times and it will grow on you. This delicacy can be a bit of an acquired taste if you were not born in this region. Just like many people here had difficulties with their cheeses the first time, you too will and can embrace this attention-demanding dish. Would it help if we say that it burns fat too?

Editor’s Pick

      PVO        Tam Maak Houng Pa Par There’s one word to describe papaya salad here: Perfection. Ban Naxai, call 021-452-722 Tam Luang Prabang Luang prabang papaya salad boasted a wider piece of papaya and a different type of Padaek that many claims make the best papaya salad in Laos. Go to Khouvieng near the corner to PVO restaurant. The smell will guide you. Sam Euy Nong (Three sisters) Along the Mekhong river in Wat Chan area. The ladies there know how to make good Tam. Center Point Sihom Head down to Sihom at the intersection they call Center point to try some of Vientiane’s best Tam Mii. They have great fruit shakes too. Take your pick. 37

WELLNESS DIRECTORY

EDITOR’S

PICKS

Adina Spa

Healing Hands Massage & Spa

170 Phonsaath, Kaysone Road www.adinaspalao.com 021 414 138

Don Chan Palace Hotel www.donchanpalacelaopdr.com 021 244 288

Allience International Medical Center

Herbal Sauna

Souphanuvong Road, Ban Wattayyaithong www.aimclao.com 021 513 095

Champa Spa & Massage

Corner of Fa Ngum and Pangkham Road www.champaspa.com EDITOR’S 021 251 926

PICKS

Dalah Spa

140 Ban Phonsavanh Tai, Hom 3, Khouvieng Road dalah.spa 021 285 125

Fit Dee - Fitness for Women FitDee 021 419 126 - 020 5568 5153

Giriya Spa

EDITOR’S

PICKS

Rashmi’s Hotel, Thadeua Road Km3 www.rashmishotel.com 021 315 088

Goodlife Sports Complex

Luangprabang Road, Phosy Village goodlifelaos 020 29 292 906

Green Park Champa Lao Spa

Green Park Hotel, 12 Khouvieng Road www.greenparkvientiane.com 021 263 064

Chao Anou Road 020 5504 5655

Lao Japan Budo Center Kounboulom Road 021 265 290

Nirvana Spa

Pangkham Road, facing Lao Plaza Hotel www.nirvana-spa-laos.com 021 222 936 EDITOR’S

PICKS

LPH Fitness Club

Papaya Spa

LV City Massage and Spa

Sarila Spa

Mandarina Body & Soul Spa

Sengdara Fitness Centre

Manee Spa

The Olympic Fitness

Lao Plaza Hotel, Samsenethai Road www.laoplazahotel.com 021 218 800-1 149 T2 (Nong Douang) Road www.lvcitylaos.com 030 525 6699

Pangkham Road, near Nam Phu 021 223 857

Hom 10, Ban ThongKang pages/Manee-Spa/296630677103440 021 353 207

Mani Beauty & Spa Mani-Beauty-Spa 020 55 612 650

New Arena Laos Ban Thadua NewArenaLaos 021 480 913

Phanya Sy Road www.papayaspa.com 021 216 550

Salana Boutique Hotel, Chao Anou Road www.salanaboutique.com 021 254 254 Dongpalan Road www.sengdarafitness.com 021 452 159

Rashmi’s The Plaza, Thadeua Road www.rashmishotel.com 021 315 088

Vientiane Yoga Studio Sokphaluang Road 020 91 943 770

White Lotus Massage & Yoga Pangkham Road, close to Nam Phu 021 217 492

Luang Prabang Ayu Spa

M.K. Wellness Centre

Dhammada Massage Oasis

Sanctuary Massage

Kounxaou Road, Ban Phoneheung www.xiengthongpalace.com EDITOR’S 071 213 200 PICKS Luang Prabang Oasis Hotel www.luangprabangoasis.com luangprabangoasis 071 212 642 EDITOR’S

Kiridara Spa

PICKS

22/13 North Road, Ban Naviengkham www.snhcollection.com/kiridara 071 261 888

L’hibiscus Spa

45 Sakhaline Road 030 923 5079

Lao Red Cross

Opposite Vat Visoun 071 252 856

Luang Prabang Yoga luangprabangyoga.org 020 7777 9966

77 M. 4 Ouparach Buakhum Road, Ban That Luang 030 777 1082

Sanctuary Hotel, Kitsalat Road 071 213 777

Spa by Burasari

Nam Khan River Road, Ban Khili 071 255 031

The Spa Garden

Ban Phonheuang www.spagardenlpb.com 071 212325

The Angsana Spa Luangprabang

Maison Souvannaphoum Hotel www.angsana.com www.banyantree.com 071 254609

DHAMMADA MASSAGE OASIS Tropical Oasis Park, Ban Vixoun, Setthathirath Road, Luang Prabang Tel: 071 212 642, 071 252 933 Fax: 071 212 818 Email: info@luangprabangoasis.com www.luangprabangoasis.com

WEEKEND ESCAPE

Words & photos Gaid P. Kornsilapa

 

Experience

Phou Khao Khouay,

Visit Waterfalls and Homestay in

Ban Hat Khai

                    40

                 

“How much longer?” we collectively cry after departing by boat on a shallow river. After the journey, we trek about 2 hours into the forest on a trail spanning many mountains, and the path is jumbled, dark, and steep in some places in order to reach Tad Xay Waterfall in the Phou Khao Khouay National Protected Area. While our feet slowly move us through the humidity, our local guide calls out to tell us it is just another 15 minutes before reaching our destination. Full of determination to have a good soak in the water, we muster our strength for the last walk to Tad Xay. In reality, the trip to see Tad Xay Waterfall is not that difficult because cars can reach it. From the parking area to the waterfall, it’s only 200 meters. But as we want to experience the lush nature of the Phou Khao Khouay National Protected Area, we decided to embark on a soft adventure by taking a boat and trekking to the cascades. Even though it requires more exertion, the benefits are more worthwhile. In addition to a dip in the clear refreshing water, if you sit at the base of the falls, the pressure of the falling water massages fatigue away entirely, like a Jacuzzi.

                     

                       

On return from the waterfall, the Tourism Office in Ban Hat had arranged a vehicle to collect us, which made the journey much more comfortable. If we had walked back, it would have taken many more hours. That night we stayed in a homestay in Ban Hat Khai, which had 2 bedrooms along with a kitchen and a bathroom. It was built especially to receive tourists. This house is situated on the Nam Mang River. There are many large ancient trees circling the house that helped make the atmosphere of this homestay the most pleasant in Bolikhamxay Province. Our group was welcomed and cared for very well by the representative from the village, along with the team of cooks who prepared dinner and breakfast and left us very satisfied. When we returned from the waterfall to the village in the early evening, the aroma of food wafted from the kitchen along with the warm smell of sticky rice. Our mouths began to water and it aroused our stomachs. We quickly showered and changed and sat down to eat together in a circle. Dinner this day was a very special menu that pleased us all very much. It included a free-range chicken soup which was a traditional village specialty handed down through the generations. The cooks revealed to us the secret of the broth; they use Rosella leaves and the young leaves of custard apples. In addition to this, we had bamboo shoots steamed in banana leaves, bamboo shoot soup, and papaya salad, accompanied by warm sticky rice. It was all incredibly tasty. During our meals, we talked with the villagers in this warm and friendly setting; it was almost like visiting the home of a relative.

                              44

In the early morning, when we were still half-asleep on the bed, we could hear the cooks preparing breakfast for us. For sure it was going to be a special meal, so we roused ourselves out of bed and hurried to try the food. We found that the table was filled with delicious-looking food. Highlights included Xoup Phak made from local vegetables found in the area, steamed, and seasoned to a full flavour; Mok Kung which made from tiny freshwater shrimp found near the waterfall and steamed in a banana leaf and seasoned. In addition to this, there was a fermented fish spicy dip, a sour bamboo shoot spicy dip, and grilled catfish, which made breakfast an impressive meal. The way Ban Hat Khai villagers live is genuinely charming.

Travel Information

From Vientiane Capital, take Rte. 13 south until KM 90, then turn left and follow the signs for the Phou Khao Khouay National Protected Area. To contact the homestay and get more information Tel: 020 2224 0303, 2243 8138

            45

SHOP DIRECTORY

Carol Cassidy Textiles

Noekummane Rd, Ban Mixay www.laotextiles.com 0 21 212 123

Caruso Lao

8 Fa Ngum Road carusolao.com 021 223 644

Elegant Boutique

No. 103, Pangkham Street 021 215 437

Finer Things

34/03 Francois Ngin Rd www.laosilkfinerthings.com 021 254 181

Indigo Lao

Rue François Ngin, Ban Mixay www.indigolao.com 021 215 469

Kanchana Boutique

102 Chanthakoummane Rd 021 213 467

Lao Fine Arts Handicraft Jewellry

550/01 Thatluang Tai Village 020 5542 6993

Ministry of Silk

99/01 Nam Phou Square www.ministryofsilk.com 021 213 776

Mixay Art of Mekong

053/55 Nokeokhuman Street, Ban Mixay www.artofmekong.com 021-216 592

Monument Books

Nokeokoummane Rd www.monument-books.com 021 243 708

Mulberries Shop

Nokeokoummane Road, Mixai Village www.mulberries.org 021 241 217, 021 263 371

Night Market

Mekong riverfront, Fa ngum Rd Sunset - 9pm, 7 days

Oriental Bookshop 121 Chao Anou Rd 021 215 352

Saoban Crafts

97/1 Chao Anou Road www.saobancrafts.com 020 7783 9152

Satri Lao Silk

79/4 Setthathirath Road www.satrilao.laopdr.com 021 219 295

T’Shop Lai Gallery Vat Inpeng Street www.artisanslao.com 021 223 178

Treasures of Asia 86/7 Setthathirath Rd 021 222 236

Luang Prabang Cama Crafts

Ounkham Rd, Ban Wath Nong www.camacrafts.org 071 254 594

Caruso Lao

99/01 Nam Phou Square www.carusolao.com 071 254 574

Dara Market

Kingkitsarath Rd

Phosi Market

L’Etranger Books & Tea

Pathana Boupha Antique House

48/3 Sakkaline Road 020 5554 6184

Phousi Rd, Ban Aphay 071 212 880

Ma Te Sai

Sisangvong Rd, Ban Xieng Mouane www.matesai.com 071 260 654

Garden of Eden Shop

Naga Creations

Gallery Asiama

Night Market

Kopnoi

Ock Pop Tok

Phanluang Village 071 410 456

Vat Nong House No. 41 www.asiama.fr Ban Aphay kopnoi.com 071 260 248

Kin Thong Lao Silk

Savangvong Road 020 7777 5005 SIsangvong Rd 5pm - 11pm

Sakkarine Rd, Ban Vat Sene www.ockpoptok.com 071 253 219

Photisalath Rd 7am - 5pm

26/2 Ban Visoun 071 212 262

Passa Paa

79 Ban Vat Sene www.passa-paa.com 020 5541 1244

TAEC Boutique

Kitsalat Rd, Ban Khamyong www.taeclaos.org 071 253 364

ASEAN CONNECT - THAILAND Words & photos Gaid Kornsilapa

  Capturing Breakfast Culture in Trang



          

he province of Trang, on southern Thailand’s Andaman Coast, has lots to offer offshore and in the wild, but the inland capital city of Trang itself can rarely keep visitors more than a day. However, in this sleepy town, along the winding backstreets, a local breakfast culture flourishes. Tucked in alleyways are charming raan ko-pii, or coffee shops, that serve extra strong brew and a variety of Chinese teas, as well as well-established restaurants featuring the delicious dim sam (Chinese steamed buns) and moo yang (Chinese-style roast pork). So when in Trang, do as the Trangs do… and eat!

                                 

Chinese immigrant settlers in Trang are responsible for passing on the recipes of what are today the city’s most famous dishes. And since getting up early in the morning to have breakfast is the tradition of local residents in Trang, as most of them work in the rubber plantation where they finish their daily job at sunrise, breakfast is the most important meal of the day here. It also provides a chance for workers to meet up with friends, share thoughts, and update their daily status reports, kind of like today’s social networks. And as Trang is the hometown of former Thai Prime Minister, Chuan Leekpai, local breakfast restaurants are where heated daily political discussions get their start.

               50

                               

When eating out at local restaurants that serve breakfast, you don’t even have to look at the menu. Dim sam, a variety of many small portion plates, will be served right at your table in full set without you having to say a word. Choose from steamed shrimp, crab meat, minced pork, sausage and mushroom dumplings, steamed barbecued pork buns,

spring rolls, steamed sticky rice wrapped with bamboo leaves, deep fried chicken and tofu, fried fish and shrimp balls, and more. Whatever dishes you want, and a few you definitely might not want, are all available to try. Eat as much as you want, and what’s left can be returned to the kitchen. You just pay for what you’ve eaten, simple as that.

Another local specialty to ask for is moo yang. According to most foodies, what’s so different about the moo yang in Trang, compared to elsewhere, is the pork’s extra crispy skin outside, and extra tender meat inside. The secret is that the pig is marinated in honey and spices for five hours before being roasted for about two hours. When your plate of moo yang arrives, toast your meal with a cup of ko-pii, old-style coffee with milk. Ask for kopii dam for black coffee, with or without sugar.

                               

Benchmark Breakfasts Ko Teng The most famous hotel among backpackers, the restaurant at the front serves several noodle and rice dishes, and also eggand-toast breakfasts. Rama 6 Rd. (opposite Trang Tourist Office) Ton Noon Dim Sum

One of the best Dim Sum places in town 202 Pad Sathani Rd. and 122 Pattalung Rd.

Sin O Cha Formerly “Sin Jiaw”, it was renovated a few year ago into a modern Ko Pii Shop. If you get to Trang by train, this is a convenient place to take a breather before heading to explore the rest of the city. Next to Trang’s railway station

Breakfast Coffee & Afternoon Tea Ko Tham

Best Chinese buns in town Raksachan Intersection

Ko Chaeng

Getting There Thai AirAsia and NokAir both fly to Trang daily. Alternatively, night buses leave from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Station and take about 11 hours.

The timid and introverted Ko Chaeng has more than 5 years experience working at a coffee shop in Japan, and has the best kept secrets for preparing Chinese tea. Try your luck sampling the wares, as the shop opens and closes whenever the owner feels like it. Opposite to Sai Ngam Rd soi 2

Getting Around



(nokair.com)  (airasia. com)        http:goo.gl/7AXR1c

Explore Trang’s backstreets on foot for real local flavour. Otherwise hire a tuk tuk hua kob, a green motorized tricycle with its front part shaped like a frog’s head – a classic symbol of Trang. These drivers can organize an old town tour, and most do a good job as makeshift tour guides. Grab one parking on the road, and negotiate a price. 53

SEE & DO DIRECTORY

EDITOR’S

Cope Visitor Centre

PICKS

Centre of Medical Rehabilitation, Khouvieng www.copelaos.org 021 218 427

From Farm to Market www.tuktuksafari.com 020 5433 3089,

Houey Hong Vocational Training Centre for Women Lane 19, Houey Hong Village www.houeyhongcentre.com 021 560 006

EDITOR’S

Long Vien Golf Club

www.laodisabledwomen.com 020 5433 3089

Km 17 Thadeau Road, Dongposy Village www.longviengolfresort.com 030 977 8888

Lao Experiences Cooking Class and Food Tours

President Kaysone Phomvihane Memorial Museum

lao-experiences.com 020 5569 9429

Lao National Museum

EDITOR’S

PICKS

Ban Bounkagnom,Thadeua Rd icatgallery 020 7783 9674

Inpeng Ethnic Cultural Park

406 T4 Rd., Donekoy Village 20 28035756, 20 55620191, 20 23999990

Kaisone Phomvihane Road 8am – 11.30am, 1.30pm – 4pm

Lao Bowling Centre

Near the Ministry of Defense, Kaisone Phomvihane Road Mon - Fri 8am – 11.30am, 1.30pm – 4pm

Lao Textile Museum

EDITOR’S

Ban Nongthatai, Chanthabouly PICKS 021 560 458, 021 213 467

Lao Zoo

Boulevard Khunbulom (near the National Stadium) 021 254 332

National Highway 13 km 6 8am – 12pm, 1pm – 4pm, Close on Monday and public holidays

People’s Security Museum

Samsenthai Road, Anou Village 021 212 460

Lao People’s Army History Museum

I:CAT Gellery

PICKS

Lao Disabled Women’s Development Centre

The Memorial of President Souphanouvong

Kaisone Phomvihane Road, Phonesa-ard Village Mon - Fri 8am – 11.30am, 1.30pm – 4pm

Vientiane Bicycle

www.vientianebycycle.com. 020 5581 2337

Vientiane Orchidées

Ban Boo Tulakhum District www.laozoo.com 023-241-015

59/642 Ban Phonethong, Chomany www.vientianeorchidees.com 021 560 444

Luang Prabang Elephant Village Sanctuary Day Trips

EDITOR’S

PICKS

Ban Xieng Lom www.elephantvillage-laos.com 071 252 417

Ethnik Fashion Show

Kingkitsarat Road, Ban Aphay www.hivebarlaos.com 020 5999 5370

Garavek Performance

85/5 Kounxoua Road, Ban Phonheuang www.garavek.com 020 9677 7300

Living Land Farm

Khuangsi Water Fall Road, Ban Pongvang www.livinglandlao.com 020 5519 9208

Luang Prabang Library

Sisavangvong Road, 8:30 am - 12:00 pm, 1:00 pm - 9:00 pm

Nam Ou Elephant Farm

Ban Vang Lae, Pak Ou District www.namouelephantfarm.com 020 2863 8805

Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre

Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi Market) www.ockpoptok.com 071 212 597

Pha Tad Ke Botanical Garden Ban Mano Road www.pha-tad-ke.com 020 22 540 999

Project Space Gallery

EDITOR’S

PICKS

Kitsalat Road, Thong Chaleuan Village www.projectspace-luangprabang.com 071 213 091

Tamarind Cooking Courses Ban Vat Sene www.tamarindlaos.com 071 213 128

Tamnak Lao Cooking School Sakarine Rd, Ban Watsene 071 252 525

EDITOR’S

The Traditional Arts and PICKS Ethnology Centre (TAEC) Ban Khamyong, Luang Prabang www.taeclaos.org 071 253 364

Tiger Trail Outdoor Adventures Sisavangvong Road, www.laos-adventures.com 071 212 311

UXO Laos Visitor Center

Behind Chao Anouvoung Monument, Phothisan Rd. 071 252 525

White Elephant Adventures

44/3 Sisavangvong Road, Ban Xieng Mouane www.white-elephant-adventures-laos.com 030 514 0243

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THM Lao Co., LTD. 265 Baan Nongbone, Xaysetha, Vientiane, Lao P.D.R. +856 21 454 782; Mob: +856 20 5884 8376; +856 20 5516 2440. E-mail: admin@sabaidee-magazine.com Mob:

Ms. Chayada Ariyaphoncharoen ( Gung ) Sales & Marketing Director +856 20 5884 8376, +66 83 018 4076 ( Thai ); E-mail: chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com

SLEEP DIRECTORY

Angkham Hotel

Kaysone Phomvihanh Road www.angkhamhotel.com 021 900 011-20

Ansara Hotel

Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha www.ansarahotel.com 021 213 514

Auberge Sala Inpeng

63/6 Inpeng Street, Ban Wat Chanh salalao.com/Sala_ Inpeng 021 242 021

Beau Rivage Mekong Hotel Fangum Road, Ban Sithanneua www.hbrm.com 021 243 350, 243 375-6

Best Western Vientiane Hotel

2-12 Francois Nginn Street, Ban Mixay www.bestwesternvientiane.com 021 216906-9

PICKS

Ihouse Residence Hotel

Rashmi’s Plaza Hotel

City Inn Vientiane

Landmark Mekong Riverside

Sabaidee @ Lao Hotel

Lao Orchid Hotel

Salana Boutique Hotel

Lao Plaza Hotel

Seasons Riverside Hotel

Baan Phiavat www.chanthapanyahotel.com 021 244 284

72/6 PangKham www.ihouse-laos.com 021 217 053

Corner of Phangkham and Phainam Street www.cityinnvientiane.com 021 218333

Thathkhao Village, Sisattanak District www.landmarkmekonghotel.com.la 021 266 888

Cosmo Hotel

Ban Pakao www.hotelcosmolao.com 021 711175-7

Dhavara Boutique Hotel

EDITOR’S

PICKS

25 Manthalath Road, Ban Xieng Ngeun dhavaraboutiquehotel.com 021 222238

Don Chan Palace Hotel

Unit 6 Piwat Village, Sisatanak District donchanpalacelaopdr.com 021 244 288

Chao Anou Rd.,Vat Chanh www.lao-orchid.com 021 264 134 63 Samsenthai Road www.laoplazahotel.com 021 218 800

Lao Silk Hotel

Rue Francois Ngin 021 213 976

Thadeua Rd, Ban Beungkhayong www.rashmishotel.com 021 315 088 Pangkham Rd, Sisaket Village www.sabaideeatlaohotel.com 021 265141-2, 265152 112 Chao Anou Road salanaboutique.com 021 254 254

25, Fa Ngum Road, Ban Sithane Neua www.seasonsriverside.com 021 214-521

Sengtawan Riverside Hotel Unit 3, Sithan Nuea Village sengtawan.com EDITOR’S 021 219.362 - 5

PICKS

Mandala Boutique Hotel

Settha Palace Hotel

Mercure Vientiane

Somerset Vientiane

Family Hotel

Mali Namphu Hotel

Vansana Riverside Hotel

Green Park Boutique Hotel

Phasouk Residence

Vientiane Garden Hotel

ibis Hotel

Phonethip Plaza Hotel

Dork Champa Hotel

Kamphengmeuang Boulevard (T4 Road) www.dorkjumpahotel.com 021 331888

Douang Deuane Hotel Rue Nokeokoummane 021 222 300

Pangkham Road, Sysaketh Village www.familyhotellaos.com EDITOR’S 021 260448-9 PICKS 12 Khouvieng Road www.greenparkvientiane.com 021 264 097 Namphu Ban Xieng Ngneung www.ibis.com 021 263 201

EDITOR’S

Chanthapanya Hotel

Baan Phiavat mandalahotel.asia 021 214 493

Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha accorhotels.com 021 213 570 109 Pangkham Road, Xiengngeun Village www.malinamphu.com 021 215093 57/4 Wat Xieng Gneun Road www.phasoukresidence.com 021 243 415 Unit 16, Beung Kha Nhong Village phonethip.plaza.hotel.laos 021 261591

6 Pang Kham Street www.setthapalace.com 021 217 581

Souphanouvong Avenue www.somerset.com 021 250 888 Ban Sithane Neua www.vansanahotel-group.com 021 252 090-7

56 Sihome Road, Ban Sihome vientianegardenhotel.com EDITOR’S 021 241 963 PICKS

Vientiane Plaza Hotel

6 Pang Kham Street www.vientianeplazalao.com 020 2300 0433

Luang Prabang 3 Nagas Hotel

Ock Pop Tok Mekong Villa

Angsana Maison Souvannaphoum

Satri House

Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong ockpoptok.com 071 212 597

Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong 3-nagas.com 071 253 888

Rue Chao Fa Ngum, Banthatluang www.angsana.com 071 254 609 EDITOR’S

Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao belmond.com 071 212 530

Kiridara

PICKS

57 Photisarath Road, Ban Thatluang satrihouse.com 071 253 491

The Apsara

Ban Phanluang theapsara.com 071 254 252

EDITOR’S

PICKS

22/13 North Road, Ban Naviengkham www.snhcollection.com/kiridara 071 261 888

The Belle Rive Boutique Hotel

99 Baan Phonehueang, Riverfront www.thebellerive.com EDITOR’S 071 260 733 PICKS

Le Palais Juliana

The Luang Say Residence

Le Sen Boutique Hotel

Treasure Hotel Laos

Muang Thong Hotel

Villa Maly Hotel

Chao Phetsalath Street, Ban-Sangkalok www.lepalaisjuliana.com 071 260 417

Norasan Road, Ban That Luang www.treasurehotellaos.com 071 260 661

113 Manomai Road, Ban Mano lesenhotel.com 071 261 668 Oupalathkhamboua Rd., Ban Thatluang www.muangthonghotel.com 071 254 976

Nam Ou Riverside Hotel & Resort

4-5 Ban Phonepheng www.luangsayresidence.com 071 260 891

EDITOR’S

113 Manomai Road, Ban Mano villa-maly.com 071 253 902

PICKS

Vanglae Village, Pak Ou District www.namouriverside.com 030 924 8567

EDITOR’S

PICKS

Ban Savang, Vang Vieng www.inthira.com 023 511 070

EDITOR’S

PICKS

Riverside Boutique Resort

Ban Viengkeo, PO 360 Vang Vieng www.riversidevangvieng.com 023 511 726-8

List your

properties

on our directory pages Please Contact US Tel: 021 454 782 Mob: 020 5884 8376

Email: Chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com

125 Unit 7, Vixoun Village, Luang Prabang Tel: 071 212 642 facebook.com/luangprabangoasis

CHAMPASAK Champasak Grand Hotel Lao Nippon Bridge www.champasakgrand.com 031 255111-8, 260211

Champasak Palace Hotel

P.O Box 718, Pakse www.champasakpalacehotel.com 031 212 131

Inthira Hotel

VANGVIENG Inthira Vang Vieng

Tropical Oasis Park

Ban Vat Amard, Champasak District www.inthira.com EDITOR’S 031 511011 PICKS

La Folie Lodge Thavonsouk Resort

P.O.BOX 2715 , Vang Vieng www.thavonsouk.com 023 511 096, 511 215

Done Daeng, District Pathoumphone lafolie-laos.com 020 55 532 004

Mekong Paradise Resort Ban Nonhsavang 031 254 120

The Elephant Crossing Hotel

Pakse Hotel

Vansana Vang Vieng Hotel

Residence Sisouk

PO Box 5512, Vang Vieng www.theelephantcrossinghotel.com 023 511 232, 023 511 634 Ban sysavang, Vang Vieng www.vansanahotel-group.com 023 511 598-9

Street 5, Ban Watkouang hotelpakse.com 031 212 131 Ban Lakmuang www.residence-sisouk.com 031 214716

EDITOR’S

PICKS

Vieng Tara Villa

Sinouk Coffee Resort

Villa Nam Song

The River Resort Champasak

Villa Vang Vieng Riverside

Waterfall Resort Ban E-Tu Paksong

Vang Vieng www.viengtara.com EDITOR’S 020 5551 8155 PICKS Ban ViengKeo, Vang Vieng www.villanamsong.com 023 511 637 Ban Viengkeo, Vang Vieng www.villavangvieng.com 023 511 188

LakKhao Village, Paksong-Thateng Road sinoukcoffeeresort.com EDITOR’S 030 955 8960 PICKS Ban Phaphinnoy, 14A Rd., Champasak theriverresortlaos.com 030 95 68306

waterfalletupaksong.com 020 2866 2809

A RETRO

ESCAPE BY THE RIVER Samut Songkram, Thailand

t helegendmaek long 1285, PATHUMMALAI ROAD, T. MAEKLONG, MUANG DISTRICT, SAMUT SONGKRAM 75000 RESERVATION:+66 (0) 3470 1121 E- MAIL : INFO@THELEGENDMAEKLONG.COM

www.thelegendmaeklong.com

A Stylish Budget Accommodation Option in Luang Prabang

The Ultimate Relaxation Hideaway FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT:

125 Unit 7, Bane Vixoun, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Tel: +856 (0) 71 212 642, +856 (0) 71 252 933 www.tropicaloasispark.com