Salon Magazine, November/December 2006 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon MAGAZINE

THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY AND STYLE

Northern Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 365 Bloor St. E., Ste. 1902 Toronto, Ont., Canada M4W 3L4

Exposure

Canadian celebrities

and their breakaway hair styles

plus

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l salon MAGAZINE

Content ontents ts NOVEMBER+DECEMBER 06 WWW. S A LON 5 2 . CA

ON THE COVER

Hair, concept and art direction: Jason Kearns, Kearns-Davidson Hair & Skin Care, Toronto Colour: Kathlene McMahon and Erika Stone Makeup: Hanoch, Plutino Group

ON THE COVER 56

NORTHERN EXPOSURE

CONTESSA 18 FINALISTS

Wardrobe: Ivy Lam Photography: Richard Dubois Technique: Warm red highlights were added to long brown hair. Using CHI’s 1⁄4-inch ceramic curling iron, hair was tightly curled and pinned close to the head. Small sections of hair were left loose, and two braids were created and then gently backcombed. Remaining hair was also backcombed for a frizzed effect and held with SUDZZ FX hairspray.

FEATURE Five Canadian celebrities and their breakaway hair styles

HIGHLIGHTS 24

HAIRLINES Temporary Texture - The new holiday do p.24; Urban Numerals - Redken Styling hits the streets p.26; Red Carpet’s ’do review p.28; There’s no “I“ in team - A solid team requires a solid foundation p.30; Four of a Kind - Italian hair group Carlo Bay demonstrates the versatility of one well-engineered short crop p.32; Rebooking Tips and Techniques p.34; Media Savvy part 3 - Tips to help you get positive media coverage p.35; Punk Barbie - Olga Velioski wins the Joico VeroColor Makeover Competition p.36

COLOUR

MEN

72 74

The Roots - A fashion no-no turns fashion-forward

Fresh Faces - Tapping into the men’s skin care market

NAILS Sparkle and Shine - Have some fun this holiday season with these bright and shiny lacquers; Controversy Meets Reality - Chemophobia— a fear of chemicals—is still an issue in the nail industry

TANNING

Celebrity Glow

> CONTENTS CONTINUE ON PAGE 18

44 88 HAIR TRENDS

HOT PRODUCTS 16

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l salon l MAGAZINE

FEATURES 50

STAR GAZING

THE ART OF PIN-UP

ROCK ’N’ ROLL REVIVAL

SCENE A night on the TIFF party circuit with a photographer in tow

CONTESSA GALLERY Jimmy Lapointe speaks about his labour of love—styling burlesque-inspired hair

VISUAL FEATURE In grainy black-and-white photography, TIGI’s Ricochet collection evokes 70s and 80s rockers

THE DEFINITION OF OPULENCE

PAST AND PRESENT

THE DANCER

ON THE RO AGAIN

SMALL TOWN CHARM, BIG CITY AMBIENCE

58 80

VISUAL FEATURE TIGI's Ricochet Collection

VISUAL FEATURE Jason Kearns releases a decadent collection reminiscent of regal portraiture

ESTHETICS Combine old and new for a sensuous holiday look p.66; Glossamer - Shimmering new trends in lip gloss this season p. 68; Pretty Pout - Lip enhancement techniques p. 70

INTERIORS

PROFILE Vivienne Mackinder champions and educates an industry much more than she ever would have imagined

PULSE West Coast Beauty’s Ro Lal takes Salon for a spin around town

INTERIORS Kenneth Blair Salon & Spa Kenneth Blair Salon & Spa in Alberta

REGULARS 20 EDITOR’S LETTER 22 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 88 HOT PRODUCTS 90 EVENTS 92 SCOOP 95 PRESS PASS 105 LAST WORD

by John Steinberg

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SCENE

Penélope Cruz and Pedro Almodóvar at TIFF

NAILS w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Four New Ways to Dazzle by Design Designer Series by OPI in Four New Shades! Featuring OPI’s exclusive ProWide Brush! TM

Designer Series by OPI Nail Lacquers are formulated with precious diamond dust to reflect light in an explosion of brilliance. Available in a stunning 12-piece display with testers to create excitement! To discover all sixteen shades, plus Designer Series Base Coat & Top Coat, contact your Authorized OPI Distributor. Colors shown left to right: DS sensation, DS dazzle, DS perfection, and DS royal.

EDITOR’S LETTER

STAR STRUCK

THE HOTTEST INDUSTRY EVENTS

JOBS � EVENTS � CONTESSAS

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� Where to go ��What to bring ��Who to look out for ��Why you should be there

� Sign up today at www.salon52.ca for a chance to win an iPod nano Open to beauty professionals only

I HAVE MET A FEW CELEBRITIES in my day. I once met Elton John in a nightclub in LA back in the 80s. It didn’t faze me at all, in fact, I didn’t think it was him at first. I asked him if anyone ever told him he looked like Elton John. That’s when he burst out laughing. That’s a glass-of-wine story. But recently at the Toronto International Film Festival, I was a bit star-struck. I got to meet Penélope Cruz at the Premiere Magazine editors and celebrities party at W Studio. I was hanging out at the Joico booth with master platform artist Kevyn Martell (see story, page 28) and brand manager Melisa Gill when she arrived with the famous director Pedro Almodóvar and a flurry of cameras started flashing. I never thought I would do it, but I could not resist getting as close as possible to take her picture—well about 20, actually. She was looking so fabulous and gorgeous, what was I supposed to do just stand there? NOT! Needless to say, I now have her picture saved on our office camera to show anyone who’s interested. I spent the rest of that same evening chasing celebrities from one event to another, with a photographer in tow. I felt like a paparazzi (see story page 50). There’s a bit of a rush when you can get up close to celebrities; it’s hard to explain. Now I know why all those screaming fans show up to get a glimpse of their favourite stars. Canada has no shortage of its own celebrities. Take a look at the story on page 56 for a review of some of our home-grown talents including singer Avril Lavigne, supermodel Jessica Stam and actress Molly Parker. We asked a few stylists to comment on how these celebs wear their hair and how it affects their appeal and careers. Does the hair make the career? Speaking of celebrities, we are about to see the newest Canadian beauty celebrities at the 18th Annual Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards—The Contessas. Come out on November 12 and cheer on the finalists in hair, makeup and nails. They are all stars! Hope to see you there. Call 416-869-3131 ext. 108 to order tickets.

Stephen Puddister Editor-in-Chief

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PHOTO BABAK

WIN THIS!

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 15 issue 15

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Stephen Puddister > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | editor@beautynet.com ART DIRECTOR

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | art@beautynet.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | editorial@beautynet.com CONTRIBUTING EDITOR/MANAGING EDITOR (FRENCH) Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com COPY EDITOR

Francie Wyland

SHOW TIME

Laura Dunphy Publisher

Pam Fulford

EDITORIAL INTERN

Helen Vong

ART ASSISTANT / PRODUCTION DESIGNER

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | design@beautynet.com CONTRIBUTORS

Malumir R. Beavis, Lori Colborne, Adriana Ermter, Kim Hughes, Chantel Simmons, John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER

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Andrew Mannsbach > 416.869.3131 ext. 119 | mannsbach@beautynet.com CIRCULATION MANAGER

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905-729-0227 salon@tamicirc.ca ACCOUNTANT

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PO Box 357, Beeton ON, L0G 1A0 Canada SAL ON MAGAZ IN E HAIR BILL ROWLEY PHOTO BABAK

CALL ME A SHOW SNOB, but once I got a taste of the international show scene I just couldn’t get enough. Most major manufacturers spare no expense in putting their best foot forward at these grandiose events. Alongside the creative geniuses of our industry, they put together jaw-dropping productions that can leave anyone on sensory overload. It’s been a super year for the international circuit. For me, one of the highlights was attending the Global Salon Business Awards in beautiful Barcelona, Spain. Only in its second year and already a stellar event, Global Salon offered an excellent business forum and terrific networking opportunities. It was chance to rub shoulders with salon elites from around the world. And needless to say, the setting was pretty spectacular. One of my favourites is Salon International in London, England— not Ontario, darling. London is the mecca of hair and beauty. And at Salon International you can bump into Anthony Mascolo, Trevor Sorbie, Tim Hartley or Antoinette Beenders under just one roof. I simply never get tired of soaking it up. The presentations are excellent and many are in a theatre setting—uninterrupted by outside noise. The show floor gives you a chance to check out the latest and greatest innovations in the business. You can even get a taste of the hottest up-and-comers, like the buzz-worthy team from SACO. Perusing the British Hairdresser of the Year finalists gallery is a must. Talk about inspiring! Then it’s off to the world-famous Alternative Hair Show—an evening event with highly visual and entertaining presentations from salons all over the world. And the proceeds go to Leukaemia research. Simply fabulous! These shows never lose their shine for me. As the year wraps up and we settle into winter, you may start dreaming about plans of inspiration for 2007. Think big and think abroad! And while I am on the topic of shows, the Contessas are just around the corner on November 12 at the Metro etro TToronto Convention Centre. I hope to see you all there to support the finalists for the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards. This is their night to shine.

SENIOR STAFF WRITER

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printed in C A N A D A From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416-869-3131, fax 416-869-3008 or e-mail circulation@beautynet. com. Our privacy officer is Les Hetherington at 416-869-3131 ext. 112.

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Senscience liquid luxury is an exclusive hair care collection specially formulated by Shiseido Laboratories — a perfect combination of sensuality and science that leaves hair healthy, silky soft, shiny and strong. Available worldwide only at ﬁne salons.

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HAIR LINES

temporary TEXTURE

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RE YOUR CLIENTS TIRED OF THE ANNUAL HOLIDAY UPDOS? Are they always asking for a completely different look but only want you to take off half an inch? Other than a change in colour, what are the options? “Temporary texture,” says John Donato, of Donato Salons and Spas in the Toronto. “One of the hottest and simplest add-on services we are using is Nexture by ISO. We introduced it about a year ago and it has taken on a life of its own,” adds Donato. Last year when it was introduced to the market, Danyelle Bachand, national artistic director for Piidea Canada, told us, “Nexture is a non-commitment, semi-permanent styling service that allows clients to try a one-step treatment that creates curls that last up to 20 shampoos.” Bachand dubbed it “disposable texture.” Back at Donato’s, artistic director and perm king Misha Zivanovic says, “I do at least two Nexture services a day on average. It’s a great boost for our industry. Fashion trends for the past few years have seen an increase in women wearing their hair longer, so this temporary texture service is a way for us in the salon industry to offset the loss of revenue from cutting.” Donato sees it this way: “For a long time when you mentioned perms, clients would run for the door, but not anymore. With a service like Nexture, you can introduce a whole new generation to something many of them have never even seen. It’s like when we were able to introduce people to colour with semi-permanent colour for 4 to 6 weeks or 25 shampoos. Anyone under 20 has probably never even smelled a perm, let alone had one. And this generation has a short attention span and loves change—the perfect Nexture client base.” Zivanovic says, “The treatment has a pleasant scent, which clients like. It can be used safely for repeated textureover-texture use.” “Nexture comes in both normal/resistant and tinted/highlighted formulas, making it safe to use on colour-treated hair. It leaves the colour totally intact,” says Bachand. “Hair returns to its natural state after 20 washes.” With the holidays coming up, and for a change of pace, give clients body and fullness and a wash-and-go look that gets them through four weeks of non-stop parties and social engagements.—SP 11.11.06

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HAIR JOHN DONATO MAKEUP IZABELLA PHOTO KINT QUON

The new holiday do

power

your

color business

up to 118,876 referrals. Feel the power of new client referrals from national advertising, Aveda Experience Centers and aveda.com. This October through December, our Color Conserve™ Strengthening Treatment campaign drives guests to Aveda Concept Salons with a powerful incentive: book a free hair color consultation and receive a free sample of Color Conserve™ Shampoo and Conditioner.

Grow with the power of our network—call 888.222.4152 today.

HAIR LINES

URBAN NUMERALS Redken Styling hits the streets

RE YOU GOOD WITH NUMBERS? If you’re not, you soon will be. And you’ll have Redken 5th Avenue NYC to thank for it. The urban-cool hair care company has recently re-launched its styling range, adding two brand spankin’ new products to an already well-rounded roster. Presented in superbly designed number-based packaging, Redken’s self-reinvention is both a sleek marketing move and a reflection of high-tech product innovation.

So why the numbers? The numbers appearing on Redken’s new packaging reflect the hold factor of each product. Powered by the Redken-exclusive Bonding System, a non-flaky, mouldable, long-lasting and humidity-resistant holding agent, the line offers three levels of control. Mild control, numbers 01 to 05, adds light, touchable definition. Numbers 06 to 15 rev up the texture on more defined looks. Numbers on the high end on the scale—16 to 25—offer strength, structure and maximum control.

Result-driven

PHOTOS COURTESY REDKEN

The new and improved Redken Styling line can also be categorized by desired result. Five products—Thickening Lotion 06, Clean Lift 07, Full Frame 07, Contour 08 and Guts 10—make up the Volume grouping. Six products, including the new Electric Wax 11, fall under Definition and Movement. Glass 01 and Vinyl Glam 02 are classified under Shine. Four other categories— Straight/Smooth, Heat Styling, Hairsprays and Curl/Wave—comprise the remaining 13 products.

Blended or Layered? Creating customized product cocktails to suit the needs of every client has become a must on the demanding salon floor. The Redken Styling range can be blended together or layered over one another for a perfect product mix. Your options are vast. Check out salon52.ca for more.—MA 11.11.06

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WE ARE MAKING WAVES IN THE TEXTURE CATEGORY

With ISO Nexture, a breakthrough semi-permanent texture treatment, you can offer clients a temporary, damage-free way to create soft, natural waves. www.isohair.com © 2006 Innovative Styling Options, Inc., division of Piidea Canada, Inc. Pointe-Claire QC H9R 5N3 Questions? 1 800 267-4676

HAIR HAIR LINES LINES

Red Carpet’s ’Do Review Bright lights, big city and star-worthy hair—when it comes to styling celebrities at the 2006 Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF), Joico International Artistic Team member Kevyn Martell knows what to do

Joico’s Kevyn Martell with Mena Suvari “BUT IT’S SURREAL, BECAUSE I’M THINKING: Oh my God, I’m meeting all these famous people,” says Martell, whose VIP hair roster at the Peach Stone Media and Premiere Magazine lounge and photo studio included Mena Suvari, Brittany Murphy, Rachel Weisz, Ellen Burstyn, Sarah Polley, Emilio Estevez, Christian Slater, Joy Bryant, Viggo Mortensen, Morgan Freeman, Christian Bale, Tim Robbins, Giovanni Ribisi and Scott Caan. Providing consultations, offering product and spritzing spray, Martell spent 15 minutes with each personality. “They didn’t treat me any differently. They’re real people whose job just happens to put them in the public eye.” And at the end of the day, says Martell, it’s all about the hair. Here’s what transpired during TIFF’s mane event:

Starring locks: Mena Suvari TIFF film: The Dog Problem The ’do review: Yo-yoing from blonde to brunette for movie roles, Mena Suvari’s hair required damage control. “She loves being a blonde in between films, but it wreaks havoc on her hair,” says Martell, who loaded Suvari up with moisturizing products. “She was receptive to everything.”

Starring locks: Brittany Murphy TIFF film: Love and Other Disasters The ’do review: “Brittany was just the sweetest thing,” Martell says. While they chatted like old school chums, he gave Murphy’s hair a quick once-over before she commandeered her photo shoot like a true professional. “She was even familiar with the product line, and gave me a big hug when we said goodbye.”

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Starring locks: Rachel Weisz TIFF film: The Fountain The ’do review: New mom Rachel Weisz “looks great after being pregnant,” says Martell. “Her hair is healthy, in good condition.” While educating Weisz about optimum tress maintenance, Martell helped her select items from the Joicostocked shelves. “She was very gracious.”

Starring locks: Sarah Polley TIFF film: Away from Her The ’do review: Fifteen years ago, Martell helped Polley break out of her Anne of Green Gables mode with a short red hairstyle. “She wanted to update her portfolio,” Martell says. Clearly, it worked—Polley has been on the big screen ever since. She even remembered Martell. “She’s so genuine, a real Canadian success story. That’s the thing. You never know who your clients will be.”

Starring locks: Ellen Burstyn TIFF film: The Fountain The ’do review: “Ellen has a lovely white patch in the front of her hair,” says Martell and describes Burstyn’s ’do as mature, requiring regular trims and deep conditioning treatments. “It’s hard to be upfront and honest, but I research every celebrity before we meet so I’m coming into the situation with a high level of knowledge and respect.”—AE

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HAIR LINES

Staff from Valentino’s Grande Salon just after their Salon Team win at Contessa 17

There’s no “I” in Team A solid team requires a solid foundation

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K, BEAR WITH US FOR JUST ONE SECOND as we try to make a point. Here goes: Without division of labour we’d all still be hunting and gathering in seminomadic tribes, living day by day without much sense of security. However, since the invention of agriculture and the dawn of civilization, humans have specialized their efforts into specific tasks and roles. The result? Efficiency, increased output and higher profitability. Applying this age-old wisdom to what really matters—the salon—we notice a huge trend toward departmentalization among some of the industry’s finest. After all, having separate cutting, colouring, esthetic and nail departments increases and markets expertise. But here’s the catch. You can’t do it without teamwork. To ensure his 58-plus-member staff at Valentino’s Grande Salon grows and works like a team, George Tsinokas looks for certain core values when hiring. “These are non-negotiable characteristics that are also preached to new staff on a daily basis. They include a positive attitude, great-quality customer care and passion.” Tsinokas believes that these values start at the top of the salon chain and work their way down—it’s a lead-by-example type of attitude that he shares with Salon Escape’s Robert Barbosa. “You need to have protocols and systems to which everyone adheres,” explains Barbosa, who is currently managing two teams, one in Toronto and one in Calgary. “Once guidelines are in place, communication is the numberone thing. Then comes respect and trust.” Both Tsinokas and Barbosa believe that incentives are great team motivators. Team-based incentives— gatherings and group activities—are common at Valentino’s and build a sense of belonging. Barbosa is a fan of educational perks to help arm his staff with the tools they will need for success. It is also important to remember that you should not let one bad apple ruin the lot. “Salon owners find it difficult to cut out a top earner,” says Barbosa. “But if that person is souring the team, the long-term consequences of keeping them on far outweigh the short-term loss.” Dale Abbott, owner and manager of Hair Factory in St. John’s, Newfoundland, believes that team spirit has played a huge part in her salon’s extremely low turnover rate. “We recognize that our staff members have individual needs. It’s important to recognize those differences but also treat them fairly. We try to support our staff through our benefits package and educational incentives and encourage them to communicate and motivate each other.” For Abbott, her team—which includes two Hair Factory locations—has proven itself above and beyond the call of duty. “When my business partner, Locks Hiscock, passed away and I took some time off, everyone really came through. They were supportive, worked extra hours and ran everything on their own. That’s when I realized the calibre of my team. We really are like a family.”—MA

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We would like to

year with Joico. We would also like to welcome Amer Jomaa of the new Mod Products Inc. into the Joico network.

We at Piidea wholeheartedly look forward to an exciting and prosperous 2007.

NV BEAUTY SALON & SPA TRADE SUPPLIES

Salon Centre Alberta

JOICO.COM

HAIR Damien Carney

partners and salon consultants for a remarkable

to our talented, dynamic and loyal distributor

COLOR Sue Pemberton

PHOTO Hama Sanders

extend our gratitude

HAIR LINES

Four of a Kind

Italian hair group Carlo Bay demonstrates the versatility of one well-engineered short crop ▼

PARTY AT THE BACK A dishevelled back generates a gritty, rough-girl effect

WASH AND WEAR Messy and shiny, this is an easy but glamorous get-up-and-go option. ▼

▼

VERY 1930s Very ladylike, this 30s-inspired style is one for the vintage-loving fashionistas.

▼

THE POMPADOUR Rockabily-chic is always an option for a short-haired girl.

COLLECTION: CARLO BAY’S FASHION COLLECTION, FALL/WINTER 2006 FLORENCE, ITALY HAIR: CARLO BAY MAKEUP: BARBARA FOR CARLO BAY MAKEUP PHOTOS: ALDO FALLAI 18.11.06

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HAIR LINES

RebookingTips &Techniques AFTER YOU HAVE PRESENTED THE RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS and ddressed the client’s questions, and he or she has made the decision whether to buy or not, it’s time to move onto rebooking! “(Customer name), you need to see (stylist/esthetician’s name) in (number of weeks), which takes us to the week of (show calendar). Is (whatever the current day is) okay or would you like it earlier/later in the week? Is (whatever the current time of day they come) good, or would you prefer an earlier or later appointment?” Never ask, “Did you want to rebook?” That allows for an easy “No, I’ll call you” answer. The above questions are decisions of when, not if. “Sharon, you need to see Mary in about 6 weeks. That takes us to the week of April 10. Do you want to book on a Tuesday again or is later in the week better for you? In the morning again, or would you prefer later in the day?”

��

Should the client not rebook, here is a script you could use: “I know how important it is for you to look great and how frustrating it is when we can’t get you in when you need an appointment. So, if we haven’t heard from you in a couple of weeks, would you mind if I followed up with a phone call to rebook you? That way we’ll be able to accommodate your busy schedule.” If the client agrees to having you call, make sure you follow up within two weeks (or whatever time frame you gave), as you said you would. If, however, the client reacts negatively or asks you not to follow up, end the conversation on a light note and say you look forward to hearing from him or her. Lori Colborne is President of LSL Marketing Consultants—recognized keynote speaker, trainer and author of Innovative Marketing Made Easy! She can be reached at lori@LSLmarketing.com.

� ��

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Media Savvy Part 3

Tips to help you get positive media coverage

THE PITCH Depending on how you pitch a story, you could score a homerun to win the ultimate prize: new clients and the possibility of future exposure. But before you throw a pitch, here are a few tips to remember. •

Media competes and searches for new, timely and interesting topics.

•

Don’t throw a curve ball by relying on your press kit to catch an editor’s attention. Too often it will end up in the garbage because the media receives a pile of these every day.

•

Follow-up. Most reporters, producers and editors are willing to hear your story idea over the phone as long as you don’t think out loud. Keep it brief and get to the point.

Newspapers have short lead times and prefer local angles with lots of

photo opportunities. Make sure you give beauty/fashion/lifestyle editors well-written press releases and extra photographs. For magazine coverage, PR consultant Donna-Lee Langton says most magazines are working 3 to 6 months in advance of their publishing dates. “Contact them at the right time. You wouldn’t want to tell them about seasonal trend reports at the wrong time of year. It could be too late.” Television coverage has great exposure, but there must be something stimulating to watch, such as an event, a demonstration or a makeover. TV cameras like crowds. You need to be animated, confident and keep answers short. You don’t want to end up on the editing room floor! Radio morning shows have the highest ratings, but you have to paint a picture for the audience. Include background sound effects like blow dryers, the snapping of scissors, music and chatter. If you are interviewed, say it with a smile and sound lively.—CW This is the final story on tips to help you get positive media coverage. The first ran in the July July/August issue of Salon Magazine and the second ran in the September issue. We hope you found this series useful.

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HAIR LINES

Punk Barbie

WO-TIME VEROCOLOR COMPETITOR OLGA VELIOSKI has snagged the top honour at the 2006 Joico VeroColor Makeover Competition. Velioski’s winning look features a fiery, punk rock girl wearing a mix of orange, copper and neon mahogany panels spread over a rich black base. Placed on a versatile, multi-layered bob, Veliski’s triangular colour placement technique comes off looking simple and striking. It’s a tough, boisterous style that somehow still radiates a sense of prettiness. “I call it a Barbie punk look,” says the St. Thomas, Ontario-based stylist, who credits her model’s fair and delicate complexion for softening the photo’s edgy overall effect. “I’ve always been a fan of deeper colours,” she adds, “which look great on the model’s fair skin tone.” And it’s this type of creative and technical expression that Velioski loves most about competing. “It’s a great experience, one that young stylists should not be intimidated by. It really is a chance to express yourself.” So what’s Velioski most hyped about? “The prize is amazing,” she states. “I’m heading to the Contessas in November, to the Joico Artistic Institute in New York in May and I can’t wait to do the shoot for Joico Forward.”—MA 25.11.06

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HAIR OLGA VELIOSKI MAKEUP AMANDA WOOD PHOTOS PAULA TIZZARD

Olga Velioski wins the Joico VeroColor Makeover Competition

COLOUR

the roots A fashion no-no turns fashion-forward

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HAIR LESLEY CANTWELL PHOTO BLAIS-BILINSKI

nce the ugly duckling of the hair industry, visible regrowth has slowly changed its reputation and redefined itself as a chic and fashionable style statement. Over the past few years, more and more stylists have been experimenting with visible regrowth. Lesley Cantwell, of Montreal’s Odyssée Le Loft Salon & Spa, is one of them. “Even though creating visible regrowths is not a new technique, it’s more and more wanted by clients,” says Cantwell. “Slowly, we’re stepping away from placing foils as close to the head as possible.” The effect of allowing noticeable roots can be two-fold: it can create an edgy, punky look or a soft, natural feel. It all depends on the amount of contrast from root to tip. Jagoda Hall of Entrenous in London, Ontario, achieves contrast with both shade level and colour tone. Although she encourages experimentation, Hall suggests working within certain parameters. “It’s all about making it look like it’s done on purpose,” explains Hall. “It should not look like a mistake.” In general, she suggests working with inch-and-a-half-long regrowth and, when aiming for the natural look, sticking within three shade levels of difference between root and tip. For a stronger look, Hall likes working with contrasting tones—cool on top and warm at the bottom or vice versa. In terms of ideal clients, Cantwell suggests pitching the natural-looking version of the technique to highlight clients. “Regrowth allows colours to flow together, giving a grown-out feeling that works with certain shades,” she says. Hall agrees. “It’s a challenge when a client with highlights pulls his or her hair back. They don’t want to see a stripy effect or really notice where the highlights start. Visible regrowth gives a softer look. It also adds depth.” Both colourists advise trying the funky, high-contrast look on younger clients. Students on a budget will appreciate the fact that they can get longer wear from one hair colour session. You may also want to consider offering complimentary sessions to students. According to Hall, “A lot of students out there will let you have total creative freedom if you offer to colour their hair for free. This will give you the opportunity to practise your technique and get really playful.”—MA

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MEN

F Fresh Faces

e all know that celebrities spend a lot of money on their looks. They are more concerned with physical appearance because it can mean the difference between landing a new role in a movie and being passed over for someone younger or fresher looking. A fresh face is also top of mind for the average man on the street these days. Although men used to ignore their skin care needs, it has been noted lately that about 60 per cent of males use their wives’ skin care products but don’t admit it. It stands to reason that this is a great place to expand your retail offerings for male clients. The professional market is expanding with new products for men exclusive to the salon and spa industry, so there has never been a better time to get in on the revenue this sector can generate. “No longer content with a simple shave and a soapy face wash in the morning, men want facial care and anti-aging products,” says Mai Ly, owner of Metro Spa, exclusively for men in Toronto. “Eye creams are of specific interest—men don’t want those dark circles around the eyes. They are much more interested in using facial moisturizers with sunscreens, exfoliating gels and cleansers formulated specifically for their skin, and even the wrinkle defence creams once only available to women are now widely available for men.”

What’s out there? The latest professional line on the market for men’s skin care is XTOL Tactical Skin Therapy, solely developed in Vancouver. The line, which has 10 products, covers everything for cleansing, exfoliating, moisturizing, protecting and conditioning the skin. Check out www.xtolmen.com. Ly carries the Physiodermie line in her spa. Comfort Zone’s Man Space line, which is manufactured by Davines, has similar products, as does Erreci Sport for man by Dikson and the BE Man line from RVB laboratories, available through Intercosmetics at 800.263.4333.—SP

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PHOTO COURTESY VIDAL SASSOON PRODUCT PHOTO COURTESY XTOL TACTICAL SKIN THERAPY

Tapping into the men’s skin care market

Bornto style. Is it in you?

Your ﬁrst step to a successful career in the hair and beauty industry is dependent on your initial investment in training. The Aveda Institute Toronto is part of a worldwide network of schools that offers the highest level of education in the fundamentals of hair cutting and colouring for aspiring stylists. Learn from the masters. For enrollment information, call 800.363.0830 ext. 25 or visit aveda-institutetoronto.com

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HAIR TRENDS

November+ December2006

Valley of the Dolls LOOKING TO CAPTURE THE SOFTNESS AND SEXINESS OF 60s HAIR, CANADIAN UP-AND-COMER RUDY PIGNATARO WORKS WITH MIDDLE PARTS, AIRY FRINGES AND LONG, GENTLY ROLLING CURLS. PHOTOGRAPHED IN A PHONE BOOTH IN AN EAST TORONTO NEIGHBOURHOOD, THE SHOOT’S LOCALE ADDS A GRITTY ELEMENT TO AN OTHERWISE SWEET AND SEDUCTIVE FEEL. THE USE OF DRAMATIC, ACCENTUATES THE HAIR’S SOFT TOUCHABILITY.

s a l o n > november+december 06

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HIGH-CONTRAST LIGHTING DELIVERS AN INTERESTING EFFECT: IT

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COLLECTION: TRANSIT HAIR: RUDY PIGNATARO, SALON G & A INC., TORONTO MAKEUP: VINCENZA CAMARDA WARDROBE: JAMILA DAVID HOU PHOTOGRAPHY

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PHOTOS: DAVID HOU,

25.11.06

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november+december 06 < s a l o n

HAIR TRENDS COLLECTION: DESIRED COLLECTION HAIR: MARTIN HILLIER PHOTOS: COURTESY SENSCIENCE 02.12.06

Vanity Fair LOOSE, DISHEVELLED LOCKS ARE BOTH WILD AND FEMININE.

The Raven A SIMPLE AND CLASSIC TAKE ON LONG HAIR STYLING, SMOOTH LONG LAYERS FLAUNT HIGH-SHINE LATE-BROWN COLOUR.

s a l o n > november+december 06

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FINISHING AND DEEP, CHOCO-

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Jag-u-are

Congo Bongo

Wild Thing Catwalk

Bungle Jungle Monkey Business

Fashion follows the tracks of the cat this season, with ferociously feminine results. From faux leopard shoes and bags, to fuzzy tiger print belts and spotted silk dresses; this style teases with a touch of savage. And Essie’s got six untamed shades to set off these wild prints, making this the purr-fect time to be a fine feline. Call 1.800.232.1155, or visit www.essie.com.

HAIR TRENDS

COLLECTION: SALON SOLIS 2006 COLLECTION CUT AND UPDO: ERNESTO DOMANICO, SALON SOLIS, TORONTO COLOUR: DINO TOLENTINO MAKEUP: GREG WENCEL WARDROBE: MAHA PHOTOS: COURTESY SALON SOLIS 21.10.06

cherry cola FRAMING RUBY REDS WITH A GEOMETRIC CUT CREATES A LOOK THAT IS MORE VERSATILE THAT YOU WOULD FIRST THINK. HERE, THE MODEL PULLS

the amber road COLOUR TRENDS OFTEN MIMIC NATURE. SO COLOURING WITH A VARIATION OF FALL COLOURS—LIKE THE AMBER HUES SHOWN HERE—IS AN IDEAL AND CLASSIC CHOICE.

OFF THE LOOK WITH AN ELEGANT, WHITE STRAPLESS DRESS AND SOPHISTICATED, PLUSH MAKEUP.

Old Hollywood A SIDE-SWEPT, PALE BLONDE UPDO COMPLETES THIS SILVER SCREEN GODDESS LOOK.

Green Gables A LESS STRUCTURED UPDO HAS AN ETHEREAL AND DAINTY QUALITY. IT ALLOWS LIGHT TO BOUNCE OFF LOCKS OF HAIR, DRAWING ATTENTION TO BOTH COLOUR AND TEXTURE. — MA

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O N L Y

T H E

B E S T

W I L L

by Claudio Silvestrin

Présence Paris

W H E N

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1 7 5 To r y o r k D r i ve , Un i t 3 8, To r o nt o , On ta ri o 1 87 7- 5 26 - 82 46 o r ( 4 1 6 ) 7 4 3 - 9 77 9 MONTRÉAL

6 6 4 7 T h i m e ns S t r e e t , Ville St-Laurent, Québec 1 80 0 3 61 - 25 86 o r ( 5 1 4 ) 7 4 5 - 4 30 2 CONCEPT

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DESIGN

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EQUIPMENT

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SCENE

STAR GAZING A night on the TIFF party circuit with a photographer in tow. By Stephen Puddister

s a l o n > november+december 06

WYCLEFF JEAN PHOTO CLINTON H. WALLACE/PHOTOMUNDO ALL OTHER PHOTOS MICHAEL BANASIAK MODEL HAIR AT THE F*** ME I’M FAMOUS! PARTY BY EXIT SALON

Mena Suvari

Penélope Cruz

Giovanni Ribisi Donna-Lee Langton, Pedro Almodóvar and Melisa Gill

CELL PHONE, TAXI CHITS, credit card and media passes in hand, I headed out for a star-studded night of events at the Toronto International Film Festival on September 10. First stop, Premiere Magazine’s exclusive lounge party for editors and media darlings at the W Studio. I meet Joico’s Kevyn Martell, the exclusive dispenser of hair care advice to the famous and not-so-famous. From there we hail a cab to the red-carpet rush at Roy Thomson Hall for the gala screening of All the King’s Men. We try and get a shot of the gorgeous Kate Winslet, a smoking Sean Penn, a devilish Jude Law or the dashing Sir Anthony Hopkins. After hoisting the photographer in my arms over the heads of thousands of breathless, screaming fans in an attempt to get a decent shot, we quickly dash into Big Daddy’s restaurant, grab a bite and a pint and take stock of who we’ve photographed so far. To round out the night, or more like the wee hours of the morning, we jump into another cab and head for the F*** Me I’m Famous! event at The Guvernment nightclub in the Koolhouse room. This was Parisian DJ star David Guetta’s first F*** Me I’m Famous! party here in Canada. According to many who attended it was as crazy and glamorous as the evenings Guetta and his wife Cathy organize each summer in Ibiza, Spain. Hip-hop singer Wyclef Jean made a late-night appearance and performed a couple of numbers for the high-energy partiers. Redken 5th Avenue NYC was one of the collaborators for the event, contributing lots of colour to the evening. S

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Whitney Able

Jude Law

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november+december 06 < s a l o n

CONTESSA GALLERY

The Art of Pin-Up

“THIS MODEL IS A BURLESQUE DANCER IN THE VANCOUVER AREA. HER NAME IS LITTLE MISS RISK. SHE’S LIKE OUR OWN DITA VON TEESE.”

Jimmy Lapointe speaks about his labour of love— styling burlesque-inspired hair

Edited by Morella Aguirre

wanted my Contessa 17 Session Hairstylist

collection to have an almost surreal quality. And I wanted it to be about the full package, which is why all the photos are full body shots, not just shots of hair and shoulders. Aside from doing the hair, I took on the role of art director—meaning I sourced and decided on the placement of elements like the gun and the guitar (in the photo of the redhead). Then I supervised the makeup and wardrobe and made sure the models were getting the right poses during the shoot. So in other words, I really did my own thing. The hair needed to be perfect and extremely clean, not messy and over-texturized. I did not colour over the models’ natural hair, but I was conscious of choosing a brunette, a blonde and a redhead—the three classic pin-up girl hair colours. I trimmed and shaped each model’s hair, not taking off more than about an inch from their base line. Most of my time went towards brushing, blow-drying and styling. In total, each girl took about four hours to prepare and and wardrobe and two for shooting.

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photograph—one hour for hair, one for makeup

HAIR: JIMMY LAPOINTE OF PIN-UP HAIR, NOW BASED OUT OF AXIS HAIR SALON, VANCOUVER MAKEUP/WARDROBE: TANYA FOURNIER WARDROBE: CARA LONG DIGITAL ARTIST: KEVIN GENVEL PHOTOS: JONATHAN CRUZ

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CONTESSA GALLERY

“I FIND A LOT OF INSPIRATION WHEN WORKING WITH GIRLS FROM THE BURLESQUE DANCE SCENE. THEY’RE VERY CREATIVE, INTELLIGENT PEOPLE. ASIDE FROM PERFORMING, THEY WORK IN FIELDS THAT RANGE FROM FASHION DESIGN TO SOUND ENGINEERING.”

“IT WAS DIFFICULT TO FIND A RED-HEADED MODEL. SINCE SHE HAD SHORTER HAIR THAN THE OTHER GIRLS, I WORKED IN MORE TEXTURE.”

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Change your hair as often as you change your mind. Available in Canada exclusively through Artist Choice Salon Services For more info: 1-866-424-2278 • 905-566-3101 • info@artistchoice.ca • www.artistchoice.ca

FEATURE

Northern Exposure

By Stephen Puddister

rom models and musicians to actors and actresses, Canada has no shortage of talented celebrities. How they wear their hair—their cut, colour, texture and styling—can have a huge influence on their public appeal and, as a result, on their careers. We asked some wellknown hairstylists and their teams to comment on some of our biggest and brightest celebs. Here’s what they said.

Avril Lavigne “Over the past couple of years Avril Lavigne’s look has undergone a dramatic transition from pop punk princess to a stunning, mature young woman. Early on in her musical career she revealed a natural look, but has since transformed into a trendsetter with her latest choice of colour and style, which is soft, romantic and ultra-feminine.” —The team from Ricci Hair Co, Edmonton

“What can I say about Avril? We watched her grow up from sk8ter girl to a gorgeous bride and hugely talented young singer/songwriter with the wave of a colour brush.” —Bill Rowley, Philosophy, Toronto

Linda Evangelista Evangelista’s versatility helped catapult her to supermodel status “The year was 1982. At a hair show in Niagara Falls, New York, Linda Evangelista was one of my cutting models. We got the models from an agency in St. Catharines, Ontario, and drove them across the border. I cut her long hair off into a bob and she cried! I think it is funny that she has since gone on to run the gamut with cut and colour. Bravo, Linda!” —John Steinberg, John Steinberg & Associates, Toronto

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JESSICA STAM PHOTO GETTY IMAGES, ALL OTHERS KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

Lavigne’s hair took her from tomboy to trendsetter

Molly Parker Parker can be seen in the movie Hollywoodland “Lovely brunette locks and soft waves have helped this top actress look the part. Her hair is as versatile as she is and sets off her lovely doe eyes and supple features.” —Team Ricci

Jessica Stam

“Some are better known for their hair than their talent. Not Molly Parker—she’s a chameleon. She uses her hair to help her establish a character. Red, dark or blond Molly’s hair is a beautiful accessory to an incredible talent.” —Bill Rowley

Stam’s latest look is a golden blonde bob “Supermodel Jessica Stam’s style started out looking very plain and cookie-cutter, but her colour change to striking red allowed her beauty to be exposed. Her extraordinary fiery hair brightened her eyes and gave her skin a porcelain-like appearance, showcasing her true exquisiteness.” —Team Ricci

“Nelly Furtado gets my vote for sticking to great colour that suits her. Maybe we should give her the top brunette promotion award… such an inspiration for women who love brown locks.” —John Steinberg

“The red was amazing for Jessica, but she looks pretty hot as a blonde, too.” — John Steinberg

“Since giving birth to her first child, Nelly has undergone an entire style makeover, from youthful to elegantly mature, with a softer look full of curls and chic layers. Nelly has stayed true to her brunette roots, proving that brown hair can be dynamic, yet as soft and amorous as a blonde.” —Team Ricci S

“Jessica proves all young girls should be fearless. Maybe not all girls who colour their hair bright red will appear on the cover of Italian Vogue, but it’s worth a shot if you ask me.” —Bill Rowley

Nelly Furtado Furtado’s most recent album is titled Loose

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november+december 06 < s a l o n

FEATURE

ROCK ’N’ ROLL REVIVAL “We purposely shot these in black-and-white to get that edgy, raw feeling.” —Nick Irwin, creative director, Europe

In grainy black-and-white photography, TIGI’s Ricochet collection evokes 70s and 80s rockers

By Stephen Puddister Photos by Anthony Mascolo and Roberto Aguilar

little late 70s androgyny and early 80s romance stirred up with dashes of punk rock and images of Rod Stewart, David Bowie and the Ramones. All this inspired Ricochet, a raw and gritty photo collection produced by TIGI’s international creative team and launched at the company’s World Release in Las Vegas on September 24, 2006. The international creative team consists of Anthony Mascolo, James Morrison, Nick Irwin, Akos Bodi, Zak Mascolo, Heath Grout, Fabio Collucci, and Thomas Osborn. 09.12.06

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“Everything is gone rock and roll again, and that’s what influenced us— that do-it-yourself individualistic look that is not too contrived. There’s definitely an element of commercialism in the work that allows the hairstylist to adapt the looks for clients.” —NI

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november+december 06 < s a l o n

FEATURE

“Ricochet gives an insight into the directional haircuts of today. There are eight stepby-step cut and colouring techniques, and the collection is divided into four themes that are adapted to different lengths and textures of hair. From undercutting and overcutting to disconnections and lads’ cuts, these techniques combine to create something fresh and new.” —NI 60

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“While the techniques are similar to the 70s, the styling tools of today are new and make the hair look fantastic—the products have revolutionized the styles.” —Thomas Osborn, creative director, New York S

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november+december 06 < s a l o n

FEATURE

The Definition of Opulence Jason Kearns releases a decadent collection reminiscent of regal portraiture By Morella Aguirre

y taking the concept of extravagance, wrapping it in gowns suitable for a Tudor queen and integrating it with unique updos that twist and braid like snakes and

ladders, Toronto-based hairstylist Jason Kearns shares his own original notion of opulence. “The word ‘opulence’ was mentioned to me and the idea just clicked,” says Kearns, who then took about two and a half months to transform his inspiration into his latest set of photographs. “I feel as if these images have a timeless element,” he adds. “And I think they really show how

styles, and you don’t have to care what the trends are.”

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versatile evening hair can be. You don’t have to stick with conventional

02.12.06

s a l o n > november+december 06

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FEATURE COLLECTION: OPULENCE, THE COLLECTION HAIR, CONCEPT AND ART DIRECTION: JASON KEARNS, KEARNS-DAVIDSON HAIR & SKIN CARE, TORONTO COLOUR: KATHLENE MCMAHON AND ERIKA STONE MAKEUP: HANOCH, PLUTINO GROUP WARDROBE DESIGNER: LUCIAN MATIS WARDROBE STYLING: IVY LAM NAILS: ELIZABETH ARDEN, RED DOOR VINTAGE COLLECTION PHOTOS: RICHARD DUBOIS S

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ESTHETICS

Past and PRESENT Combine old and new for a sensuous holiday look By Pam Fulford

“

What does Reynolds most like about the new line? “It’s very durable,” she says. “If I’m doing a wedding, the bride’s makeup can be done in the morning and still be fresh for an evening wedding. While lips often have to be retouched, the eyes and skin will still look perfect.” Clients dashing from holiday party to holiday party would also certainly benefit from the line’s durability. Reynolds suggests that estheticians encourage clients to fool around with the products. “Most people find it difficult to retail, but if the method is casual, everyone is more comfortable. It’s the ‘Hey, we’re girlfriends’ approach to sales. While they’re waiting for their next service, show them a tester kit and invite them to check out the new fall/winter colours. There’s no pressure, and it’s fun for your customers.” Marketing products is not just financially rewarding for your business, it’s also a bonus for clients. One suggestion Reynolds offers is a complimentary service that makes everyone happy. “After a facial, skin is very sensitive and can often look red. But La Biosthetique makeup contains vitamin E, so pigments will not irritate the skin. Why not provide a quick makeover so clients leave looking their very best?” Not only is this a fun promotion for your salon—particularly at this time of year—but it also encourages clients to come back and leaves them feeling their very best. According to Reynolds, there is one goal to aim for in our industry: total beauty. “Everything we do, from skin to hair to makeup, should have that in mind. Makeup is the finishing touch.” S 09.12.06

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PHOTOS COURTESY LA BIOSTHETIQUE PARIS

akeup should be a definite statement”, says Melodie Reynolds, awardwinning makeup artist for La Biosthetique Paris. A Europe-based luxury line, La Biosthetique has recently released its autumn/winter cosmetics collection, Sense and Sensuality. With a contemporary look that incorporates elements of an Old World appeal, Sense and Sensuality provides a treasure trove of inspiration for holiday makeup. It is highly glamorous and very now, but still very soft and inviting. The collection’s colours are bold—blues, purples, berries, begonia pinks and siennas—but are creatively blended to soften the look. Eyes are undoubtedly the centre of attraction, with the outer corner of the eye highlighted above and below with eye shadow and eyeliner. Lips are enhanced and conditioned with lip gloss and lipsticks containing ginseng and vitamins A and E. The two new miniature nail enamels are perfectly matched to the trend makeup looks.

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november+december 06 < s a l o n

ESTHETICS

GLOSSAMER GLOSS Shimmering new trends in lip gloss this season

By Malumir R. Beavis

OLUPTUOUS. SENSUAL. FEMININE. BOLD. Lip gloss speaks volumes about its wearer, and gone are the days of generic “it’s just gloss.” Rich, dynamic style in fashion, hair and makeup, along with the demand for fuller, celebrityinspired lips, has product developers creating innovative new lip glosses to indulge the desires of all women.

PLUMP IT UP

“Everyone wants voluptuous lips!” declares Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, executive vice-president and artistic director of OPI, who reveals that “gloss is a key product for making the lips appear full and voluptuous,” particularly with the trend of sparkly, shimmer and highshine glosses. Cristina Ramirez, vice-president of Intercosmetics, agrees on the volumizing benefits of gloss, particularly a shade that contains shimmer or sparkle. Ramirez explains that the iridescent flecks fill in the crevices in the lips and then “play with the light so lips appear fuller without a tingling effect”—and without cosmetic surgery.

Consumers also want a product that will provide additional perks. “Lip gloss with benefits” such as hydration and protection is a popular trend, says Bibo’s assistant brand manager, Lisa Franke. She advises that when introducing lip gloss to a client, its smart to emphasize “increasing the moisture for a softer, kissable lip.” Some products have other benefits, such as the RVB Trend & Basic line’s Shiny Lip Gloss, which contains antioxidants that help prevent the breakdown of collagen and elastin. “This product is not only beautiful, it is also beneficial. It is an anti-aging skin care product of good quality for the lips,” says Ramirez. Anna Conte, global Aveda Makeup purefessional, recommends lip gloss to the mature woman as well, as it creates a “very youthful, soft and fresh look” and “adds moisture, which is needed as the lips mature.” New formulations that allow gloss to last longer, such as the TIGI Girl Empowerment line are a definite plus for clients. “These glosses have a very long-lasting base,” says Robin Claassen, cosmetic coordinator and product developer for TIGI Linea, “so they won’t start fading right after you apply them.”

SPARKLE AND SHINE Baroque-influenced colour choices such as “deep, rich reds and roses, cranberry and pomegranate” and feminine nudes are very now, explains Conte, who also remarks that with so many “different finishes, such as shimmer, sparkle, iridescent and see-through, there’s something for everyone!” Alicia Resnicoff, public relations manager for Essie, says Essie’s Gloss-e lip gloss “can be coordinated with your favourite Essie nail polish colour for a pulled-together and chic look” that doesn’t take much thought. Lip gloss can be worn by itself for a quick, polished look, but Weiss-Fischmann suggests layering gloss over lipstick for more punch. “Overlaying colour gives lips a more dimensional look and makes lip colour more personal and unique.” Weiss-Fischmann also reveals that because lip gloss is less pigmented than lipstick, clients can wear any shade of gloss without worrying whether it clashes with their skin tone, making gloss incredibly versatile. S

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HAIR: LENNY FERRI MAKEUP: SABRINA FERRI PHOTO: BABAK CONTESSA 17

TRENDS WITH BENEFITS

GiGi® is a registered trademark of American International Industries: www.gigispa.com For more information please contact your local Canadian Distributor

ESTHETICS

Haute Holidays

Pretty Pout Lip enhancement techniques. By Chantel Simmons FULLER LIPS ARE THE HOTTEST ACCESSORY among celebrities and non-celebrities these days. For those looking for more than just the effect of a lip gloss, here’s what’s available. “Women are looking for lusher, fuller, sexier lips,” says Dr. Sheldon Pollack, dermatologist and medical director of the Toronto Cosmetic Skin Surgery Centre. “This has been a trend for the last decade, inspired by the fuller lips of trendsetters such as Angelina Jolie, but in the last five years, there’s been a shift toward a more natural look rather than an overdone, blown-out look.”

INJECTABLES Ideal for the first-time lip plumper, injectables plump up the lips quickly and effectively (with just a shot of pain). “All injectables have a similar result—more or less—depending on the amount of material used,” says Dr. Pollack. “Hyaluronic acid products such as Restylane and Juvéderm provide excellent result” and last six to nine months. “My favourite product at the moment is Evolence, a new long-lasting injectable collagen designed to last at least a year.”

Cranberry Cocktail - 243

For a more permanent look, soft, flexible tubes, such as Gore-Tex of Advanta, can be implanted into the lips. Results are permanent, but the implant can be removed anytime. “I definitely prefer injectables to Gore-Tex,” says Dr. Pollack, “since the latter can feel and look unnatural.”

Mystic Mint - 246

WRINKLE-REDUCERS Meet Me Under the Mistletoe - 170

Kissing by the Fire - 32

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LCN.ca

Lines that appear around the lips may be caused by smoking, pouting and pursing the lips. To prevent these lines, quit smoking, increase water intake and avoid sipping beverages through a straw. To reduce already visible lines, injectables such as Restylane Fine Lines can be injected into the fine lines as well as the edge of the lip where the red and white portions of the lip meet, “giving lips a sexy roll and preventing lipstick lines,” says Dr. Pollack. Results last about six months. Botox can also be injected into the lip to weaken the muscles responsible for pouting. S Chantel Simmons is the editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, covering anti-aging, enhancement and wellness.

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MAKEUP MIRANDA FOX PHOTO LINDSEY DRENNAN CONTESSA 17

IMPLANTS

“ORO” (gold), RVB’s new anti-aging anti-ageingsystem system offers immediate skin lifting & renewal New skin in 28 Days. With Glycolic Acid & other innovative active ingredients, “ORO” offers luxury for those who demand only the very best.

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Call for a distributor near you 1800-263-4333 | 905-238-1485 | 1275 Eglinton Ave. E. Unit 62 Mississauga ON Visit www.rvbcosmetics.com | www.intercosmetics.ca | Email: sales@intercosmetics.ca

NAILS

Sparkle and Shine Controversy Meets Reality Have some fun this holiday season with these bright and shiny lacquers

Chemophobia—a fear of chemicals—is still an issue in the nail industry

Purple Reign Pair a sparkly plum shade

Red Delicious Essie’s Jag-U-Are is a shimmery crimson treat.

Disco Nights Glitz your way to the dance floor with Creative Nail Design’s disco ball silver polish.

s a l o n > november+december 06

IT MAY SOUND LIKE IT’S COMING FROM YOUR GRADE 10 SCIENCE TEACHER, but here goes: chemicals are our friends. With the exception of electricity and light, most everything we encounter is either a chemical or a combination of chemicals. Fresh spring water, for example, is made of chemicals. Soft rose petals are composed of chemicals, too. The air we breathe? Again, chemicals. As nail technicians, you work with chemicals every day. It may come as a surprise to learn that one of the deadliest chemicals you handle on a daily basis is water. In his book Nail Structure and Product Chemistry ((Second Edition), Douglas Schoon, co-chair of the Nail Manufacturer Council and head of the scientific research team at Creative Nail Design, emphasizes this fact to make an interesting point. “A small amount of water can kill you,” he writes. “Try sticking your head in a bucket of water for five minutes.” Schoon’s message cannot be stressed enough: it’s not about the chemical, it’s about whether the chemical is used in a safe and responsible way. Although in the past certain ingredients with not-so-pretty side effects have been used in nail salons, the high-quality products available to nail technicians today are completely safe if used correctly. “MMA (methyl methacrylate) is prohibited for use in nail products,” says Schoon. “Really, nowadays it’s not so much about the ingredients as it is about safe use.” In fact, MMA-containing products were prohibited not because they are overly toxic, but because they are unsuitable as nail enhancement monomers. MMAs don’t adhere well to the nail plate, forcing nail techs to shred and thin the plate. They are also too rigid and difficult to remove, making thinned-out nail plates twice as dangerous. “The public often doesn’t have enough knowledge of chemistry to really understand certain principles,” explains Schoon. “It is difficult for them to grasp the concept that EMA (ethyl methacrylate)—a safe and appropriate ingredient in nail products—is different than MMA.” Schoon is an advocate of what he terms the overexposure principle. “No chemical can be harmful unless you overexpose yourself,” he stresses in Nail Structure and Product Chemistry. “One hundred per cent of any given chemical is not the same as 1 per cent. And many of the ingredients that are deemed unsafe are very safe at low concentrations,” he adds. As always, product knowledge is key. Keeping Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for all products in your salon is essential. And, without fear of sounding like your dreaded grade 10 science teacher again, make sure to study them. They will let you know the potential dangers of products and the early warning signs of overexposure. “It’s up to nail professionals to read product instructions and use products properly,” says Schoon. “Nail techs need to accept that responsibility.”—MA w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

PHOTO COURTESY CREATIVE NAIL DESIGN PRODUCT PHOTOS CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

from OPI’s Designer Series with a holiday cocktail dress for a regal look.

November - December 2006 Promotions NEW Butter Blends! Pure and Simple is colourless & fragrance free to deliver intense moisturizing therapy with no irritating additives. Extracts of oatmeal calm and soothe the skin while 24-hour time released emollients moisturize all day long.

INTRODUCTORY OFFER

Pure & Simple Butter Blend Item # 3087

Buy a new body butter of your choice for the great introductory price of $9.95 (reg. $11.95)

New Sicilian Nail Paste

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Removes stains caused by the environment, foods, cigarette smoke and even dark polish. Leaves natural nails sparkling clean and bright. Contains White Tea Tree Oil

Pomegranate & Fig uses natures most potent antioxidant to protect skin from everyday damage. This deliciously scented and powerful new Butter Blend is guaranteed to provide client satisfaction and drive up retail profits.

Buy a new Nail Whitening Paste and receive a nail scrub brush FREE

Pomegranate & Fig Butter Blend Item # 3088

Holiday Stocking Stuffer

EARTH STONE LAVA PUMICE This unique volcanic rock safely and effectively removes dead skin by harnessing the natural exfoliating powers of the earth. • • • •

50 gram tube provides 30 applications

Net Wt. 1.75 oz. (50g)

Item # 3086-Deal Salon Price $6.95

Enhancing the Scentual Spa Experience

Nevers wears out Feels great on the skin For men and women Floats in the tub

Great for holiday gift or retail Item # 3032 Salon Price $4.95 (reg. $5.95)

800.661.9997

™ Property of 407245 Alberta Ltd.

TANNING

Celebrity elebrit glow elebrity sunless goodies from Australian Gold. “We were so proud to be the only Canadian business invited to participate,” said Chelsea Hudson, corporate regional manager for Tan FX Sun Tanning Studio. “Someone had apparently visited one of our salons and was completely satisfied with the services and recommended our name for this event.”

“Jaime (Pressly) and Jenna (Dewan) were so sweet. They just hung around, and they were so impressed that we had travelled so far to provide this service.” –Chelsea Hudson Emmy nominee Samantha Harris enjoyed her Australian Gold/Tan FX tan so much that she went back for a touch-up

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PHOTOS COURTESY TAN FX SUN TANNING STUDIO

ften enough, stars look like they just got back from some exotic location more than likely prefaced by a “saint”—the likes of St. Barts or St. Tropez. And pictures of them frolicking on the beaches of these hot-spot destinations in weekly celebrity lifestyle magazines confirm suspicions of their activities. In reality, however, stars are most photographed when they are doing 14-hour-day press runs and barely have time to lunch. They turn to professional tanning products and leave the fate of their sun-kissed skin to the hands of technicians. This year, Manitoba’s own Tan FX Sun Tanning Studios, having received an invitation from Sonya Dakar to be part of the 2006 Sonya Dakar Skin Care “Emmy Beauty Boot Camp” leading up to the 2006 Primetime Emmy Awards, teamed up with Australian Gold and Uvalux International to give celebrity attendees the golden hue for which they are so envied. Tan FX staff were on-site as the exclusive supplier of sunless spray-tanning to the stars, courtesy of Australian Gold’s patented Laser Spray Tan System. They also supplied each client with a beautiful Jeanne Lottie gift bag filled with

before her walk down the Primetime Emmy red carpet. The event received media coverage from CNN, Us Weekly and Access Hollywood. Tan FX Sun Tanning Studio is a Manitoba-owned andoperated business with corporate headquarters in Winnipeg and is currently expanding its franchise opportunities with locations opening in Saskatchewan in 2006 and 2007. Since opening its first location in October 2000, the company has grown to a total of 13 salons providing services to over 100,000 clients and employing over 100 Manitobans. In 2006, Tan FX Sun Tanning Studio Inc. was also ranked third in Manitoba Business Magazine’s “50 Fastest Growing Companies.”—TC

Opposite page: Bai Ling; this page (L-R) Jacqueline Piñol; Tan Fx’s executive team on-site, Whitney Jones, Chelsea Hudson and Robyn Karlberg; Jaime Pressly and Step Up’s Jenna Dewan with Sonya Dakar; the gift bag featuring Australian Gold products

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november+december 06 < s a l o n

PROFILE

The T

Dancer Vivienne Mackinder champions and educates an industry much more than she would ever have imagined

by Kim Hughes

Mackinder’s current obsession, meanwhile, is fostering peer education, chiefly through her new interactive instructional website, www.hairdesignertv.com.

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HAIR VIVIENNE MACKINDER, AIRS AND GRACES FALL 2006 COLLECTION PHOTOS JILL WACHTER

F VIVIENNE MACKINDER’S BUSINESS CARD listed all her credentials, it would be a Flintstones-sized tablet. Her biography in point form covers seven full pages, while her name sparks industry-wide recognition on both sides of the Atlantic and in most English-speaking pockets of the Pacific. And can her resumé name-drop? Oh, honey… how about Sassoon and Sorbie (she served as artistic director to both), Boy George and Katie Couric (onetime clients), and Betsey Johnson and Jean Paul Gaultier (fashion show patrons). That’s just the tip of the proverbial iceberg. Then there’s the session work, editorial and TV gigs, awards, films, keynote speeches. Yup, the London-reared, New Yorkbased Mackinder has done it all. Yet in reviewing that gargantuan resumé, some illuminating key words emerge: artist, mentor, industry cheerleader, breakneck globe-trotting professional. Oh yes, and really amazing, mega-award-winning hairdresser devoted to ongoing professional development. So how does one—ahem—tease the minutiae out of Mackinder’s momentous curriculum vitae? Answer: one doesn’t. That’s what websites are for (www.mackinder.com). What one can do is spotlight her essence, then focus on current passions. With Mackinder, both tasks are surprisingly simple. What propels her is devotion to her craft: the well-executed cut and the happy client, her personal artistic development and her continued experiences as competitive stylist and consultant.

Targeting professional hairdressers, the website allows subscribers to supplement and bolster their experience and knowledge via tutorials, gather certifications for work completed, trade life lessons with other professionals, and network, network, network, preferably globally, leading to exchange trips and corresponding exchanges of ideas. “We want every person to have a study buddy—someone of a like mind who is invested in education and wants to be a winner,” Mackinder explains over two interviews conducted a week apart. In addition to launching the website, Mackinder is involved in the ongoing I’m Not Just a Hairdresser documentary series while continuing to see select clients and attempting to balance a private life of her own. She continues: “The typical salon owner is too busy to constantly motivate and educate his or her staff. So what I’m offering is a support mechanism outside the salon. As much as it’s an educational forum, it’s a place where like-minded winners can network together, showcase themselves and really get the support that a salon traditionally doesn’t offer. “In our profession we give so much to people,” the genial Mackinder continues. “Whether you’re a milkman or a countess, our job is to make you feel good. When we do our job right, it’s the best feeling in the world, and when we do our job poorly, it’s the worst feeling. So I always say to hairdressers that it’s essential they do something positive and fun for themselves outside of work. “That’s part of what got me into ballroom dancing a couple of years ago. I had been a dancer as a child, and when it was clear I would never be good enough to pursue it professionally, I gave it up and ended up in hairdressing. Ironically, as a hairdresser I’ve spent more time on stages than I would have as a dancer. “The other thing about our profession is that there really are no limits to what you can do or where you can take it. You can work anywhere—on a cruise ship or in a salon or in film or fashion or whatever. Even people who find they don’t really like people can still make a go of it as wigmakers. “But talent without desire is no good,” she says. “Desire is the catalyst to passion, which is the catalyst to exploration. From there you strive to better your education, you’re curious, and out of that comes creativity. Without that desire, nothing works.” S 02.12.06 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

november+december 06 < s a l o n

PULSE

ON THE RO AGAIN West Coast Beauty’s Ro Lal takes Salon for a spin around town By Greg Robins

o Lal pops his Infiniti into gear and slips on his Prada shades. The energetic, confident sales director of West Coast Beauty is about to escort me to a few salons in his home turf of Vancouver, B.C. “I get out of the office once a week and visit salons,” Lal reveals. “It keeps me close to the action and it’s just essential to understanding what our customers need.” We pull up to the Willowbrook Shopping Centre and meet Frank Deluca, president of Pizazz Hair Design and Eterna Salon & Day Spa. Lal knows just about everyone in the place, shaking hands and introducing stylists as his long-time buddies. Deluca leans in close and states, “These guys are the best, we’d never be where we are today without them. Business advice, product knowledge, you name it.” After a quick detail, Lal wheels out of the parking lot and we push south to a new hot shop, Fresh Hair Concepts. He speaks quickly, rattling off his company’s deeprooted philosophy of customer trust and his team’s passion for the business. “Our job is to help salons get to the next level, to accelerate their business,” he states. “We analyze people’s business before we do anything else and ask a lot of questions like who their customers are, what their price points will be, and the foundations and fundamentals of their business. Our customers are people we help from the open sign to the back door—it’s an expertise we shine on them from the start.” Lal punctuates his sentences with snappy phrases like “The more you learn, the more you earn” as he describes the basics of helping salons in B.C. grow and develop. Combining fun, enthusiasm and a serious focus on business basics is how Lal describes the West Coast Beauty team. “Salons that work with us carry unique products we test and believe in, join us for seminars and training and benefit from the in-salon time we invest.” The 42-year-old Lal is about to celebrate 10 years of ownership of West Coast Beauty with his business partner Eileen Jevning. Learn more at www.salon52.ca. S 16.12.06

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INTERIORS

Small Town Charm Big City Ambience

s a l o n > november+december 06

hotel-chic,” adds Fohry. To keep the haircutting area clean, tidy and free of clutter, Fohry says the stylists use a four-sided, free-standing portable station. “We move it to the centre of the floor, and it’s accessible to reach for products, tools and equipment.” Fohry admits one of the best features of the salon is the privacy the reception area provides. “You can’t see the haircutting area when walking through the main entrance. Our male clients feel much more at ease, because in a small town everyone knows one another.” The three owners also prefer to showcase retail products on two large black shelving units. “It’s designed to hold books, but we think the products stand out better, and the storage drawers are conveniently below to keep track of stock,” claims Fohry. Hanging on the walls of the salon are actual pictures of real clients rather than headshots of models. “Showing how the right kind of hair colour, cut and makeup application can enhance someone’s appearance is much more realistic than showing a picture of a model you don’t know.” ▼

HE KENNETH BLAIR SALON & SPA has been a long-time fixture in the city of Lloydminster, Alberta. Named after the surnames of the first two owners 30 years ago, the business has moved to its fourth location. “We simply needed more space,” says coowner Angela Fohry. With its modern decor and trendy colours, clients say visiting the salon is like a two-hour stopover in a big city. “Our staff may have the warmth of a small town, but our salon and spa would suit any location in a metropolitan centre,” says Fohry. The Kenneth Blair owners have been their own interior designers, making it an elegant, cozy home-like setting where comfort and relaxation are priorities. Divided into two sections, the salon features a colour scheme of chocolate browns and merlot wines blending with modern, contemporary furniture. Fohry says clients can sink into a plush leather armchair under a portable hair dryer and receive a complimentary hand massage. Walk through a set of doors into the spa and the ambience is definitely tranquil, with shades of biscotti beige and creamy tiramisus. “I think the spa is not only luxurious but also very

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PHOTOS RAY BAILEY

by Colette Wright

all@star

deals

Quality • Value • Innovation

NOVEMBER - DECEMBER ’06 SPECIALS

NEW Nail Art Design Kits from Star Nail and CinaPro

Add dazzle and increase your profits with affordable nail art

Rhinestone Decor Kit #CI-18000 Salon: $6.95

NEW Self-Stick Decals

Durable 3-D designs are easy to apply and look great

Pearl Decor Kit #CI-18002 Salon: $6.95 Daisies #CI-18013

Dazzle Decor Kit #CI-18001 Salon: $6.95

Blossoms #CI-18015

Shell/Glitter Decor Kit #CI-18003 Salon: $6.95

Pastels #CI-18016

Flower Decor Kit #CI-18032 Salon: $17.95 Assorted Glitter Decor Kit #CI-18031 Salon: $19.95

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Mini Decor Kit #CI-18004 Salon: $6.95

Spring Flowers #CI-18017

Introductory Pricing Salon: $2.50 each

Nail Art / Polish Wheel

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Great art at value prices

Shooting Stars #CI-18018

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Salon: $2.50 each

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR THE LOCATION OF THE STAR NAIL FULL-SERVICE DISTRIBUTOR NEAREST YOU CALL 1-877-852-STAR OR VISIT WWW.STARNAILCANADA.COM

INTERIORS

NAME Kenneth Blair Salon & Spa ADDRESS 3809 51st Avenue, Lloydminster, Alberta OWNERS Angela Fohry, Lynda Campbell and Rheanne Thackeray OPENED Originally 1976. New location since May 2005 SIZE 2,600 square feet NUMBER OF STAFF 19 BREAKDOWN 10 cutting stations; 4 colour chairs; 3 pedicure chairs; 4 manicure tables and 2 treatment rooms INTERIOR DESIGNER Kenneth Blair owners RETAIL HAIR Redken and Aveda RETAIL SPA Aveda and Spa Ritual PHONE 780.875.9669 HOURS OF OPERATION Mondays to Thursdays 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., Fridays 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Saturdays 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

s a l o n > november+december 06

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CONT ESSA NO

BE THERE

for the most spectacular show in Canada’s beauty industry! Feel the excitement as the winners hit the stage to take home the top awards.

R E YEA AWAR TH

CANADIA E N TH

STYLIST O R I F HA

FOR T BOARDING 8 ICKET S CAL 416.8 L 69.31 3 1 EXT. 1 08 W

GALA November 12, 2006

at Metro Toronto Convention Centre, South Building Cocktails 5:00pm | Dinner 7:00pm

TICKETS ON SALE Call 416.869.3131 ext.108 $180 + GST until event night

GLOBAL BEAUTY SHERATON HOTEL

HOLIDAY INN ON KING

INTERCONTINENTAL TORONTO CENTRE

123 Queen St. W. T 888.627.7175 Contessa Rate: $169.00 Code: Salon

370 King St. W. T 800.263.6364 Contessa Rate: $169.00 Code: Salon/JQ3ER

225 Front St. W. T 800.422.7969 Contessa Rate: $169.00 Code: Salon

gold sponsors

silver sponsors

CANADIAN SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR Académie St-Laurent Coiffure Axcess Salon + Spa Eden Salon Hair Factory J.C. Salons Michael’s Health and Beauty Spa Ricci Hair Co Salon G & A Inc. Salon Gaboa Intl Salon Inpure ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Intl Lizanne Laurin, Hair Factory Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms Jie Matar, Jie Avenue

Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co. Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co. Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co. Ralph Scasserra, Xpression The Salon Reynaldo Sopoco, Eden Salon SESSION HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Carolyn Ferris, Freelance Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co. Heather Wenman, Entrenous Sandro Zamparini, Pop Design MAKEOVER COLOURIST OF THE YEAR Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Intl Jackie Elliott, Vault Salon & Spa Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon Jagoda Hall, Entrenous STUDENT/APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Susan Carter, Avant Garde Hair Heather McArthur, Vault Salon & Spa Erin McNabb, Kiyo Salon & Day Spa Inc. Katherine Marcus, Avola College of Hairstyling and Esthetics Leslie Oldham, Vault Salon & Spa

TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Rocco Campanaro, Axcess Salon + Spa Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Intl Jackie Elliott, Vault Salon & Spa Karen Melay, Hair Factory Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Alexandera Brown, Richard S. Ego & Co. Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa Anthony De Angelis, Académie St-Laurent Coiffure Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc. Heather Wenman, Entrenous AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa Genevieve Dubois, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Yves Houde, L’Atelier Méga Coiffure Kera Spencer, Michael’s Health and Beauty Spa Tanya Sullivan, Rain MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Intl Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co. Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair

▼

CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Intl Jackie Elliott, Vault Salon & Spa Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon Jagoda Hall, Entrenous Lizanne Laurin, Hair Factory Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co. Ève Parr, Studio 157 Michael Vandertol, Vandertol Salon and Spa

PHOTOS:2007 CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST IMAGES. COLUMN ONE (FAR LEFT): (TOP-BOTTOM) JENNA-MARIE LAMB BABAK COLUMN TWO: ANDREW MAIDANIK BABAK COLUMN THREE: DOUG MCMILLAN (BOTH PHOTOS) COLUMN FOUR: PAULA TIZZARD (BOTH PHOTOS) COLUMN FIVE: DOUG MCMILLAN BABAK

.......Contessa 18 Finalists.............................................................................

.......The Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards............................................... 84

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.......Contessa 18 Finalists............................................................................. NEWCOMER HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Virginy Beauparlant, Sensation Coiffure Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa Karen Melay, Hair Factory Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc. Lana Vaisbrod, Yellow Orange Salon

NAIL ENHANCEMENT ARTIST OF THE YEAR Alyson Bampo, Freelance Jennifer Bennett, Hair Factory Cheri Brochu, Soul to Sole Nail and Body Studio Ang Eckensweiler, V Spa Rheanne Thackeray, Kenneth Blair Salon

MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE YEAR C.B. Buzzanga, Freelance Sabrina Ferri, Salon Verve Cheryl Gushue, Freelance Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR André Abboud, Propaganda Hair Salon Desiree Chew, Propaganda Hair Salon Natalie Darnell, Moods Hair Salon Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon

SALON INTERIOR DESIGN OF THE YEAR Coiffure Zhang Industria Coiffure Jie Avenue Markus J. Hair & Wellbeing Odyssée Le Loft NAIL ART TECHNICIAN OF THE YEAR Camille Charland, Safary Beauté Sayaka Sako, Atelier May Hair and Nail Salon Janis Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa

ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR John Jen Hoe Chong, Ricci Hair Co. Jeff Louis, Elysium Hair Body Spirit Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co. Richa Sandhar, Elysium Hair Body Spirit Greg Silvaggio, Salon Escape (Calgary) SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa Jackie Elliott, Vault Salon & Spa John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa Kitty Regan, Vault Salon & Spa

ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon Jagoda Hall, Entrenous Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms Reynaldo Sopoco, Eden Salon QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Virginy Beauparlant, Sensation Coiffure Kathleen Gravel, Coiffure Beauté Style-Moi Sonia Lefebvre, Studio 157 Ève Parr, Studio 157 Jolaine Turcotte, Académie St-Laurent Coiffure ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Lizanne Laurin, Hair Factory Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory Karen Melay, Hair Factory Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory COMMUNITY SERVICE AWARD OF THE YEAR Capri Hairstyles Ltd. Eccotique Aveda Spa and Salon Envy Hair Studio & Esthetics Tangles Hair Designs Zennkai Salon

Visit salon52’s on-line Contessa page to view the full collections from this year’s ﬁnalists.

.......The Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards............................................... 86

s a l o n > november+december 06

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HOT PRODUCTS

HOTPICKS

by Malumir R. Beavis

3 5 2

FLAT-OUT SLEEK Designed for those constantly on the go, NP Group’s O2 cordless, rechargeable ceramic flatiron heats up quickly, can fit into a purse and comes with wall and car adapters. The iron can be used for 30 minutes on battery, giving plenty of time for touchups on the fly. For more info visit www.npgroup.ca

PUMPKIN POWER New from Sexy Hair are Pumpkin Detoxifying and Pumpkin Rehydrating shampoos and leave-in conditioners, packed with antioxidants to combat free-radical damage. Pumpkin enzymes help stimulate circulation and promote healing, while soy protein, vitamins A, C and E and fruit acids fortify the hair, leaving it nourished and healthy. For more info visit www.sexyhair.com

s a l o n > november+december 06

4 COMBINATION LOCKS Joico’s new timesaving Triple EFX 3-in-1 shampoo, conditioner and body wash is a revitalizing answer to today’s hectic schedule. Packed with nourishing ginseng, Chinese white tea, chamomile and shea butter, this wash leaves hair and skin balanced, bolstered and refreshed. For more info visit www.joico.com

CRANBERRY COCKTAIL Arouse the senses with the fresh, crisp bouquet of Cranberry Scrub and Cranberry Butter Cream from Keyano Aromatics. This scrumptious exfoliating and hydrating treatment with shea butter and cranberry seed oil is designed for the hands, feet and body, and can be used for manicure, pedicure and body exfoliating treatments. For more info visit www.keyano.com

ENLIGHTENED Remove and lift one to three levels of artificial hair colour with Color-Out from Dennis Bernard. This colour corrector lightens tone, is safe to reapply if needed and is ammonia- and bleach-free, so hair can be recoloured immediately after. For more info visit www.dennisbernard.com

NEO GRUNGE For a rumpled rock and roll style, your clients will love Bed Head’s new Hook-Up Mousse Wax. Wearable for all hair types, this wax amplifies body and texture while conditioning the hair and separating strands for a hardcore, piecey look. A little goes a long way! For more info visit www.tigihaircare.com

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PHOTO MICHAEL GRAYDON

Nick Arrojo

Karg

Team FI

Phillip Wilson Yosh Toya

EVENTS NOVEMBER+DECEMBER 2006 EXCEPTIONAIL DAY, Montréal, November 26, Marché Bonsecours, Montréal, QC Info: www.exceptionail.ca THE CANADIAN NETWORK OF 18TH ANNUAL CONTESSA AWARDS, November 12 Metro Toronto Convention Centre, South Building Toronto, ON Info: www.salon52.com LANCÔME COLOUR DESIGNS AWARDS, November 27 Info: lancomecolourdesigns.ca

HAIR GREAT LENGTHS PRESENTS: Regional Training Seminar November 19—20, Toronto, ON December 10—11, Toronto, ON Info: 800.461.9302

MATRIX PRESENTS: Prêt-à-Porter, November 14—15, Toronto, ON; C.R.A.F.T. Color November 16, Toronto, ON All Dressed Up, November 19—20, Toronto, ON; Salon XL, November 20—22, Toronto, ON; Look It Over Trend Collection November 21—22, Toronto, ON; Stay Sharp , November 26—27, Toronto, ON; Off the Cover November 28—29, Toronto, ON Info: 888.422.6879

CHI PRESENTS: Transformation, November 13, Edmonton, AB; Color Confidence November 13, Burnaby, BC Transformation November 20, Calgary, AB Info: www.modernbeauty.ca

SCHWARZKOPF PRESENTS: Mosaics, November 27—28, Mississauga, ON Essential Looks 2:2006; December 11, Mississauga, ON; Fit for Highlighting, November 20, Barrie, London, Ottawa, Toronto, ON; Nanaimo, BC; Corrective Color November 6, 20, 27, December 4; Vancouver, BC; Victoria, BC; Windsor, ON; Regina, SK; London, ON Info: 800.463.3081

KMS PRESENTS: Advanced Customized Cutting Workshop November 26—27, Toronto, ON Men’s Cutting Foundations November 20, Vancouver, BC Info: 800.387.3873

TIGI PRESENTS: Techniques November 27—28, Burnaby, BC Info: www.modernbeauty.ca

GOLDWELL PRESENTS: Color Inspection & Design November 13—14, Vancouver, BC

Textural Cutting Techniques & Trends, November 13, Toronto, ON Correct It Creatively November 19—20, Toronto, ON Sign Your Look–One-Day Hands On, November 20, Toronto, ON Color Inspection & Design November 26—27, Toronto, ON; Info: 800.387.3873 L’ORÉAL PRESENTS: Colour Change November 20, Vancouver, BC Tress It Up November 27, Vancouver, BC Tress It Up November 13, Burlington, ON Colour Specialist Degree November 13, Toronto, ON Keys to Colour November 20, Toronto, ON Colour Change December 4, Toronto, ON Info: 800.361.1861

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AVEDA PRESENTS: Innovative Cutting November 12—13, Toronto, ON Full Spectrum Deep November 13, Toronto, ON Innovative Cutting November 19—20, Winnipeg, MB Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS PRESENTS: Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions In-salon classes also available Info: 866.731.4327

NAILS STAR NAIL PRESENTS: Ongoing Educational Programs Location TBA; Info: 800.661.9997 NORTH AMERICAN SCHOOL OF PODOLOGY PRESENTS: Level 1: Advanced Pedicure C-POD

Program, November 12—15, Toronto, ON; Level 2: Infection Control November 20, Victoria, BC Level 3: Biomechanics & Gait November 19—22, Fredericton, NB Level 5: Residence Practicum January 10—17, 2007 St. Kitts, West Indies Info: www.podology.net CAN-WEST AGENCIES PRESENTS: Nails 101, November 5, 19, 26, December 3, 10, Saskatoon, SK, Pedicure, November 13, 20, Saskatoon, SK; Info: 888.335.5400 ESTHETICS PLUS PRESENTS: Level I Artificial Nails November 6—7, 20—21, December 5, Edmonton, AB Level II Nails/Sculpting December 4, Edmonton, AB; Advanced Pedicure November 27 — 28, Edmonton, AB;

French Pedique November 27, Edmonton, AB Info: 888.422.6677

ESTHETICS INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY OF ESTHETICS PRESENTS: One-Week Laser Practitioner Program, Starts monthly Info: 800.352.4383 CAN-WEST AGENCIES PRESENTS: Waxing Two-Day Program, November 13, 20, Saskatoon, SK Info: 888.335.5400 AVEDA PRESENTS: Holiday Makeup November 6, Toronto, ON Artistry of Makeup November 12—13, Vancouver, BC Makeup Immersion November 19—20, Saskatoon, SK

Botanical Skin Resurfacing & Brightening Facial November 27, Toronto, ON Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

TANNING UVALUX PRESENTS: Training Seminar, November 5, Calgary; November 6, Edmonton; November 12, Toronto and Kanata, ON; November 13, London, ON; November 19, Burnaby, BC; November 20, Victoria, BC; December 3, Halifax, NS and Moncton, NB; December 4, Truro, NS and St. John’s, NL Info: 800.661.6292 Fax all your Jan/Feb listings by December 5. Please note: due to space limitations we cannot list all events. Questions? Call 416.869.3131 ext.105 or e-mail editorial@beautynet.com S

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november+december 06 < s a l o n

SCOOP

Canadians in Paris La Biosthetique Paris has added Frank Tripodi and Phil Valvano to its artistic team.

CAPITAL CELEBRITIES Joseph Saikaley, style director for Byblos Hair Salon in Ottawa, is the preferred stylist in Canada’s capital for movie stars and producers. One can see his most recent work in the upcoming movie Housesitter, starring Tori Spelling and Dean McDermott and due out in 2007.

Joico has appointed Kevin Agar as its new sales development manager in Ontario, Quebec and the Maritimes. For more info call 800.267.4676.

TORI SPELLING PHOTO LOIS SIEGEL

The Developer

Saikaley on set with Tori Spelling

�� The Best in Education & Service ��

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THE LONG OF IT Marvel Beauty Schools are now offering hair extension classes. Using Euronaturals hair extensions, the classes offer students hands-on training in this lucrative service. For more visit www.marvelschools.com.

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IN MEMORY T Toronto-based hairstylist Martin Roy Poyser passed away suddenly on September 24 while participating in the Scotiabank Toronto Waterfront Marathon. The 41-year-old Poyser was known for his charity work. If desired, donations in his memory may be made to the Christian Children’s Fund, 1027 McNicoll Ave., Toronto, M1W 3X2 or the Heart and Stroke Foundation of Ontario, 1920 Yonge St., 4th Floor, Toronto, M4S 3E2.

MOD MAN Amer Jomaa is the new owner of Alberta distributor Mod Products.

So National T Toronto-based distributors National Hairdresser Services have added SO.CAP.USA products and accessories to its roster. Go to www.nhshair.com or call 888-424-7111 for more.

NETWORK, NETWORK, NETWORK

TIP

Looking to up your profile? Want to ask fellow beauty professionals a few questions? Post your questions on salon52’s forum. Go to www.salon52.ca, hit the Speak Up link and register. And don’t forget to book your weekly shot of Salon mag. Sign up for the salon52 newsletter today!

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november+december 06 < s a l o n

PRESS PASS

TIGI WORLD RELEASE

This September, over 4,000 hairstylists from around the globe converged on Las Vegas for TIGI’s World Release. Anthony Mascolo led the TIGI international creative team in presenting their new Ricochet hair collection, which was a highlight of the two-day affair.

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november+december 06 < s a l o n

PRESS PASS

HIGH SIXX Mötley Crüe’s Nikki Sixx launched his own local fundraising initiative to benefit homeless kids at Toronto's Covenant House, a youth shelter, on October 2. Executive Director Ruth daCosta said, “Given his own experience, he understands that our kids have a lot of potential if they are given the chance.” Redken Canada had raised $4,600 in two recent haircutting events and was on hand to make the first contribution to Sixx’s project. 1. Tony Marinaccio of Alternative Beauty Services , Josie Do Rego from Covenant House, Brad, a resident of Covenant House, Janice Cameron from Redken 5th Avenue NYC (Canada), Joe Giraldi from Many Faces Salon, Oakville 2. Mötley Crüe’s Nikki Sixx adresses everyone 3. Joe Giraldi styles Carole Crotty’s hair 4. Redken stylists in action for the 100-person-plus lineup of people in search of a professional haircut for a good cause

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Permanent Make-up Training Academy

• Cosmetic tattooing training courses • 5 Day academic program • Four instruc tors to eight students • Produc t pack ages • M odels supplied for all procedures by school • Computerized tattoo equipment • Preferred rates at partnership hotels for fly-in students

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PRESS PASS ��

▼

RELEASE PARTY

Champagne popped and the tunes spun hard at Edwin Johnston’s release party for his debut

1.Tami Lyn Brown (left), Amber Graham, the Beauty Queen Salon, and Perry Boyle 2. models

DVD project, Effigy, at Tabu nightclub in Nanaimo,

Melissa, Jacquelyn, Edwin, Billy Ann, Marrisa and

BC, September 18. Guests checked out the video clips and watched Edwin spin his magic on models.

Natalie 3. Tina Bishop with some good-looking guy 4. Kevin and Karen, Breeze Salon 5. Anita

The DVD features cuts and colours, plus footage of behind-the-scenes action and can be purchased at

Gagnon, Level 10 Salon

www.cuttingroom.ca.

$1,000+ FOR A HAIRCUT? 2

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On August 19, to raise money and in support of BC Breast Cancer Research two celebrity hair stylists from Vancouver, Jon Paul Holt of AvantGarde and David Lawrence of Derek London, and their team of stylists shaved the heads of eight volunteers. One of Holt’s clients, Rosa Sevy, was recently diagnosed with breast cancer and going through treatments. 1. Rosa Sevy (Centre) with boyfriend Jeremy Bowman (R) and son Paul (L) offering support as she gets shaved as well 2. Bowman gathered business friends who donated their hair and money in a mass head-shaving at the salon; eight men and two women shed their locks and donated over $14,000 to the charity

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3. They made it more comfortable for Rosa by taking time to cut 3

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1 2

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CALGARY ABA Calgary Exhibition and Stampede Roundup Centre played host to the ABA show October 1 and 2, with over 5,700 people in attendance. 1. Paul Mitchell stage 2. ISO stage 3. The team from Summit Salon Services Inc. 4. ESP Salon Sales team 5. Sabrina Tan and Alex Russo with hair, at last 6. The team from modproducts 7. Farouk stage 8. Doris Tan from IBS and the lovely Thelma McClelland 9. CIABC’s Norma Ann Eaton with Joe Iannuzzi from Wella and Bijan Rasapour 10. Alterna stage

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EDUCATIONAL ESCAPE

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Schwarzkopf Professional and CanRad Beauty Limited held an educational weekend in September. Thirty guests were pampered with Schwarzkopf knowledge and new techniques at the beautiful Delta Pinestone Resort in Haliburton, Ontario. 1. Canrad sales consultants and Schwarzkopf staff decked in 70s disco gear for a themed party 2. Essential looks: fall 2006 Fusion collection premiere 3.Cutting demonstration by Schwarzkopf artist Luigi Aquino

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CREATIVE MARKETING

John Steinberg knows more than one creative marketing technique for getting his salon noticed. He recently held an art exhibit, Escuela Cuzqueña, in his salon in downtown Toronto. A launch party including wine and cheese was held after the salon closed for hair business to open the exhibit. 1. John Steinberg with Devine Decadence Originals owner Carmelita Blondet, who organized the exhibit, and Rolando Maya, Argentinian wine merchant. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 15 Issue 15

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A.I.I. China Glaze Kaleidoscope pg 87 ..............800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com A.I.I. GiGi Spa pg 69...........................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com Aveda pg 6-7 .....................................................800-328-0849 ........................ www.aveda.com Aveda Color Conserve pg 25 .............................800-328-0849 ........................ www.aveda.com BSG Holiday 2006 pg 75 ....................................888-241-3330 ........................ www.beauticiansbeautysystems.com

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Calbrook Calgel pg 91 ......................................866-5-CALGEL ...................... www.calbrookcanada.com

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Canadian Micro Pigmentation pg 97 ................888-737-6268 ........................ www.cdnmicropigmentation.com

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Contessa 18 pg 85 .............................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.beautynet.com

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Craze Cranberry Spa Treatment pg 90 .............877-325-7773 ........................ www.craze-esthetics.com

Collega for Aveda pg 43 ....................................800-689-1066

Creative Nail Design pg 21 ...............................800-833-NAIL ....................... www.creativenaildesign.com

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Dennis Bernard TCA pg 79 ...............................800-541-5456 ........................ www.DennisBernard.com

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Fudge pg 37......................................................888-383-4387 ........................ www.fudge.com

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Hair-Brain.com pg 35 ...................................................................................... www.hair-brain.com

Donato Hairdo pg 55 ........................................................................................ www.donato.ca Essie Winter 2006 Collection pg 47 ..................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essiecosmetics.com Great Lengths pg 63 .........................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.hscinternational.com

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Intercosmetics RVB Oro pg 71 ..........................800-263-4333 ........................ www.intercosmetics.ca

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ISO pg 33 ...........................................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.ca

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International Beauty Sevices pg 92 ..................800-642-3818 ISO Nexture pg 27 .............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.ca ISSE pg 89 .........................................................800-468-2274 ........................ www.oneroof.org Joico pg 31 ........................................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com Joico K-Pak pg 100 ...........................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com

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JPMS pg 12-13 ..................................................800-793-8790 ........................ www.paulmitchell.com

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Keyano Chocolate Decadence pg 74................................................................ www.keyano.com

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L’Anza Healing Moisture pg 41..........................800-661-1424 ........................ www.keybeautysystems.com

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L’Oréal Professionnel tecni.art pg 2-5..............800-361-1861

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Lanvain pg 49 ....................................................800-361-2586 ........................ www.lanvain.com

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LCN Haute Holidays pg 70 ................................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca

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Liquid Luxuries Salon Systems pg 96 ..............800-387-2962 ........................ www.tbbs.com Matrix Academy pg 34 ......................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Matrix Active Control pg 10-11 .........................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Matrix Colorsync pg 14-15 ...............................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com NAHA 2007 pg 94 ..............................................800-468-2274 ........................ www.oneroof.org Nail Depot Perfect Gel pg 99 ............................800-668-2256 ........................ www.thenaildepot.net National Hairdresser Services pg 30................888-424-7111 ........................ www.nhshair.com OPI Designer Series pg 19 ................................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Pivot Point Canada pg 100 ................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca PureOlogy Nanoworks pg 17 ............................800-331-1502 ........................ www.pureology.com Rova Beauty Systems pg 98 ..............................888-442-9999 ........................ www.tanningtechnologies.com Salon52 pg 20....................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Schwarzkopf essential looks pg 8-9.................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.com Senscience pg 23 ..............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.zotos.com Star Nail pg 81 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio pg 73 ......................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Supre Hempz pg 38-39 .....................................800-825-7020 ........................ www.hempzhaircare.com Supre Hempz Haircare pg 85............................800-825-7020 ........................ www.hempzhaircare.com TIGI S-Factor pg 29 ...........................................800-256-9391 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com True Concepts pg 65 .........................................877-TRUE-480 ...................... www.truehairext.com Ultra Skincare pg 32 .........................................800-328-3006 ........................ www.dencoultra.com Urban Beauty Systems pg 53 ...........................866-731-4327 ........................ www.urbanbeautysystems.com Uvalux Magic Tan pg 107 ..................................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux SunScape pg 106 ..................................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Wahl pg 93 ........................................................866-787-9245 ........................ www.wahl.com

THE LAST WORD

by John Steinberg

PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

s I enter my 48th year in this wonderful industry I am constantly asked, “Isn’t it time you gave it up?” But the truth is I still love the constant exchange of ideas with young people, seeing them graduate from being assistants and making it to the floor, the instant gratification of changing someone’s look and the ongoing curiousness of the human mind. Like many hairdressers, I find it hard to get away from behind the chair, because the essence of the job is very much about contact with people. The other week a new, recommended client came in to see me. She was very attractive, dressed with extreme good taste, carried herself with poise and had a very good haircut. But when we sat down for the consultation, I noticed she didn’t like looking at herself in the mirror, something that I interpret as a lack of confidence. I had already decided I wasn’t going to do her hair—she didn’t need the attention of my scissors—so out came my Sherlock Holmes outfit, metaphorically speaking, of course. I Iistened to what she liked about her hair and why she nevertheless thought it didn’t suit her. When it was my turn to speak, I told her I thought her haircut was excellent and really suited her and I couldn’t improve on it. My words definitely surprised her. I then suggested she come back to see me in six weeks, at which point I would cut her hair. She bought some products, made an appointment for highlights and a cut in six weeks—and left with a huge smile on her face. This event is an example of why I am still behind the chair. I love my job—I’m thinking of taking it up as a hobby in the future. It also made me think about the word “persona” . Originally Latin, persona meant a mask or character in a play. Although the word is Latin, the ancient Greeks started the Western world’s formal theatre in about the sixth century BC. All the actors were male and played multiple roles,

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PUT ON A HAPPY FACE so they wore masks to show a change in character or mood. Nowadays persona has come to mean a social mask. This particular lady plays the role of a very successful and powerful lawyer, but sitting in my chair and talking to me, she revealed a shy, insecure woman without much self-confidence. Most of us wear social masks, usually to hide our vulnerability. Clients come to our salons to have their hair cut and dressed in a way that presents a particular image and becomes part of their persona. So when we listen to them carefully during the initial consultation, and then again when they return—not only when they talk about their hair—we can do wonders for their self-esteem with our work. And since a hairstyle is part and parcel of the mask, how interesting that it is completely undone and removed with a hair wash. No wonder clients often share intimate, personal secrets about their lives with their hairdresser. So I am in no hurry to give up my role of hairdresser that also allows me to play detective and psychologist. On my way to work in the morning, I usually sing a song such as “Put On A Happy Face.” If I’m really low I might sing “Smile Though Your Heart Is Breaking.” Sounds a bit extreme, perhaps, but it’s good to wear a happy face for clients. They like it, and so will you. Eleanor Roosevelt may have said, “What other people think of me is none of my business,” but a genuine smile that comes from the heart has nothing to do with masks and everything to do with the life-to-life contact hairdressers have the privilege of making with their clients. S John Steinberg is the owner of Toronto’s John Steinberg & Associates. He’s currently celebrating 46 years in the beauty business and continues to be one of Canada’s premier style makers. Check out: www. johnsteinberghair.com.

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New Beds Attract NEW CUSTOMERS

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Uvalux International Inc.

DANGER. Ultraviolet Radiation. Overexposure causes skin and eye burns.Use protective eyewear. Follow instructions.Drugs and cosmetics may increase UV effects.UV exposure can be hazardous to your health andin the long term can contribute to premature ageingand skin cancer. UV effects are cumulative.Greater risks are associated with early and repeated exposure.

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Salon Magazine, November/December 2006

Articles inside

LAST WORD by John Steinberg

CONTESSA 18 FINALISTS

ON THE RO AGAIN

SMALL TOWN CHARM, BIG CITY AMBIENCE

THE DANCER

TANNING

STAR GAZING

THE ART OF PIN-UP

ROCK ’N’ ROLL REVIVAL

THE DEFINITION OF OPULENCE

PAST AND PRESENT

EDITOR’S LETTER

NORTHERN EXPOSURE

COLOUR