As Secure As Azur The Residences at Azur Samui offer unprecedented peace of mind.
Off The Track A look at what’s on offer with those off-road trips to the mountain.
Paranoid In Paradise Samui’s wildlife – is it out to get you?
A Warm Welcome
Editor
Graeme Malley graeme@siammap.com
Graphic Designer Preeda Tuajob - Pui
Photographer
Akaphon Phongninlaarphon - Don
Feature Writer Rob De Wet
Feature Writer Dimitri Waring
Feature Writer Natalie Hughes
Webmaster
Seksak Kerdkanno - Klauy
Sales & Marketing Director Nipawan Chuaysagul - Ning 0 898 783 891
ning@siammap.com
Financial Director
Kasper Bjørk kasper@siammap.com
Managing Director Henrik Bjørk henrik@siammap.com
Siam Map Company Ltd.
52/6 Samui Ring Road, Moo 3 Bo Phut, Koh Samui, 84320, Thailand Tel: 0 7742 2201 Fax: 0 7741 3523 E-mail: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com
All Rights Reserved We’re at the warmest part of the year right now, and people’s thoughts are turning just as much towards cooling down as they are towards getting that suntan! But we’re an island. And that means there’s a lot to do that involves water. Why not take yourself out on one of the various snorkelling trips? Or combine this with a lazy boat trip out to one of the islands like Koh Mat Sum off the southern tip of Samui? But make sure you get a trip that includes some variety: an hour’s fishing and a lunch and a snooze on a quiet little beach somewhere make it so much more enjoyable! Or if you fancy staying closer to home, particularly if you’ve got kids, then take a look at one of the water parks that are dotted about.
Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permision from Siam Map Company Ltd. While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. Siam Map Company Ltd. 2017
Staying on the water, this is the time of year that Samui is host to the Annual Samui Regatta, which is the last leg of the Asian Yachting Grand Prix. So get yourself over to one of the elevated viewpoints on the steep hills between Chaweng and Lamai! Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways. Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com
Please recycle or pass on to a friend.
Maenam Bophut Nathon
Chaweng
Samui
Lamai
www.BoujisSamui.com
1 & 2 Bedroom Villas starting from 2,490THB
Escape to Boujis Boutique Resort, an intimate cliffside retreat of 14 luxury villas with unparalleled ocean views of Chaweng. Located Cliffside between Chaweng & Lamai - call 077 448 544
Mediterranean Cuisine Amidst a panoramic dreamscape that overlooks the pristine Crystal Bay, The Cliff warmly invites you to a truly unforgettable dining experience on Koh Samui.
Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2014, 2015 & 2016 2014
2015
2016
HAPA 2011 - 2013 Most Exquisite Dining Experience Most Trendy Casual Dining
Top Choice Award 2016-2017
2005
2006
Restaurant Of The Year
2007
2009
2011
2013
2014
2015
2017
"Thailand's Best Restaurants" 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015 & 2017
Reservations Essential For reservations please call 077 448 508 Bar daily 12pm - 2am
www.thecliffsamui.com
Kitchen opens 12pm - 10pm.
Choeng Mon
CONTENTS 22
14 Sails Ahead! The 16th annual Samui Regatta promises to be
52 Republican Pleasures
Ascend to the heights and lose yourself for a while in the lovely surroundings of Eranda Herbal Spa.
28 As Secure As Azur The Residences at Azur Samui offer unprecedented peace of mind.
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46 Bringing It All Back Home The best way to bring back something significant from your Thailand trip is to plan it all out before you come!
Investing In Koh Samui Property? Meet the man behind of some of the island’s most exciting developments.
its audiences for over 500 years.
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One of Thailand’s most popular dishes has several varieties, here’s the lowdown on this tasty salad.
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Koh Kids When it comes to sheer fun, Samui has plenty of treats for children.
A New Definition Of A Full Service Pharmacy Morya Pharmacy carries all the usual medications – but that’s only one of its many functions.
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Paranoid In Paradise Samui’s wildlife – is it out to get you?
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Triumphant Trio New Nordic hits the ground running with three simultaneous developments.
70 Some Som Tam
40 Super Superpro We take a look at a Samui getaway that’s breaking barriers and bringing people together in harmony – Superpro Samui.
Maritime Magnificence
A Dance In Time Classical Thai dancing has been charming
Samui’s amazing surroundings are all within reach, and Sa-ard’s Watersport Center enables you to explore them all in affordable style.
34 Off The Track A look at what’s on offer with those off-road trips to the mountain.
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We take a look at the culinary side of one of the island’s most refined beach clubs – Lamai’s Beach Republic.
more exciting than ever!
22 Heightened Bliss
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Buddhism In Thailand How Thais deal with adversity and aim to find happiness.
T H E
H O M E
O F
I N S P I R E D
I N T E R I O R S
Phuket 424 Srisoonthorn Rd. Cherngtalay Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 76 325 419
Samui 9/18 Moo1 Maenam Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 77 247 675
info@oriental-living.net
www.oriental-living.net
Chaweng
Chaweng’s main beach is five kilometres in length and is lined with 5-star luxury resorts, boutique hotels, budget accommodation and great oceanfront restaurants. Behind the resorts, the Chaweng Beach Road is filled with restaurants, bars, spas, shops, street stalls and mobile food vendors. The lake sits to the rear of them and is a wonderful place for an early morning walk or jog. Near the southern end of the lake is the Soi Reggae entertainment area which also has two Muay Thai boxing stadiums, a temple guarded by carved monkeys and the huge Laem Din market complex. All manner of fresh produce is delivered here every day and the adjoining Dow Seafood market is a hive of activity from the early hours.
Lamai
Samui’s second most popular beach is around four kilometres long and the waters are perfect for swimming. There’s plenty of choice in accommodation, restaurants, bars, spas and health resorts. It also has a free Muay Thai event every Saturday and just off the Beach Road there’s a children’s water park. Wat Lamai is home to a cultural centre and museum that houses artifacts of Samui life before the advent of tourism. On Sundays there’s a ‘Walking Street’ along part of the Beach Road. And just outside of Lamai town on the ring-road is the famous Hin Ta-Hin Yai rock formations that has dozens of small local Thai restaurants around it. 10 l www.samuiholiday.com
Mae Nam
Nestled on the northern shores of the island, Mae Nam Beach stretches for several kilometres and overlooks the neighbouring island of Koh Pha-Ngan. High-end resorts and beach bungalows are dotted along the coast and many visitors love it for its peacefulness, soft golden sands and wonderful views. It has seven side streets that meander into the mountains: from Soi 1 you can follow the road over the mountains all the way to Lamai; Soi 4 has a ‘Walking Street’ every Thursday from mid-afternoon and also houses an ornate Chinese temple overlooking the beach and a large Buddhist temple set a few hundred metres back from the ringroad; Soi 5 has a tree-top canopy adventure theme park a few kilometres into the hills; there’s a buffalo fighting stadium a couple of hundred metres off the main road between Soi 5 and Soi 6; an early morning market is also in Soi 6; an evening market near to Soi 7; and the world-class Santiburi Golf Course in the hills above Soi 7. There’re dozens of bars and restaurants in Mae Nam, many of which are on side roads that lead down to the ocean. And at the western end of the beach the Lomprayah ferry takes passengers to the neighbouring islands several times a day.
Island Insight An overall guide to Samui’s towns, villages, beaches and hotspots.
Samui is an idyllic tropical paradise. A blend of traditional Thai hospitality and remote island life has joined hands with modern traveller expectations. But the towns, villages and interior are home to much more than just luxury resorts, restaurants, bars and retail shops. And whilst the main beaches are recognised as some of the best in the world, there are also secluded coves and magical hideaways around many corners – if you know where to look. And this quick guide will point you in the right direction.
NathoN
This is the island’s main administrative centre and the major ferry port for boats to and from the mainland. There’re some hotels but it’s more a town you would visit for an afternoon rather than stay in. Beside the terminal, there’s a local food market every day from mid-afternoon until late in the evening. Along what is known as the ‘middle road’ there’re old teak shop-houses and small businesses and a ‘Walking Street’ on Saturdays. And on the one-way road that goes through the town there’re dozens of shops and restaurants. Just off the main road there’s an ornate Chinese temple and garden in Soi 4. And near the far end there’s a renowned open-air duck restaurant – just follow the crowds around lunchtime.
Bo Phut
Bo Phut is best known for Fisherman’s Village. It’s a single narrow street that still has authentic wooden houses that Samui folk have lived in for generations. Parts of it have been modernized but it’s still awash with local foods, international restaurants, bars, shops and market stalls. It becomes one huge ‘Walking Street’ every Friday and you’ll find lots of local delicacies that few other restaurants have. Along with small hotels, there’re several 5-star luxury resorts at the far end and the beach curves around a large bay that also overlooks Koh Pha-Ngan. And small speedboats leave from the village pier heading for the Full Moon parties that take place there every month.
Big Buddha and Plai Laem
The magnificent golden Big Buddha statue that watches over the island from the north-east corner of Samui is one of the first things you see as you fly into Samui Airport. Built on a tiny island (Koh Farn) with a connecting causeway, it’s the most iconic image of the island. Many Thais pray at the temple so dressing and acting appropriately is expected when you enter the site. There’re some very good Thai restaurants and small stores around the temple. It also affords some beautiful views and along the road from it you’ll see another large Buddha image at Wat Plai Laem. Half-way along the road between the temples is a side road that cuts through to Choeng Mon. Down this road there’s access to some quiet secluded beaches, although some of them are through resorts.
Choeng Mon
Choeng Mon lies just 15 minutes or so from the middle of Chaweng but it seems like worlds away. There’s a small town that the road runs through with a couple of dozen restaurants and bars. The beach is a favourite for many locals as it’s quiet, picturesque and safe for swimming most of the year round. There’s every class of accommodation with some old-style beach bungalows at one end. And they all overlook the tiny deserted island of Koh Farn Noi which you can walk out to if the tide is low.
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Bang Rak
In between Fisherman’s Village and Big Buddha is where you’ll find Bang Rak. There’s a few very good resorts and some private villas for rent along the beachfront that stretches around for several kilometres and has stunning views. Bars and restaurants line the main street and there’re two piers. The one nearest to Big Buddha has daily ferries to Koh Pha-Ngan, Koh Tao and on to the mainland port of Chumpon, from which a VIP bus takes passengers to Hua Hin and on to Bangkok. Start to finish, it’s a 12-hour journey with about half of it on the boat. Just beside the ferry terminal in Bang Rak is one of the busiest fish markets on the island. Local fishermen drop their catches here and the place is bustling with people all day long. At the other end of town there’s a short-cut into Chaweng on a road called Soi Bond Kai (which the locals refer to as the ‘Ghost Road’).
Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi
The south-west part of the island is known as the ‘Virgin Coast’. It’s largely unspoiled with lots of secluded bays, although most of the shoreline tends to be rocky. The west coast overlooks the famous ‘five islands’ and some of the closer islands of the Angthong National Marine Park (which is a perfect getaway for a day’s boat trip excursion). In this part of the island there’re some hotels, private villas for rent, up-market and local restaurants and several temples of note, including two that house a mummified monk. A second car ferry terminal is located in Lipa Noi and, like the one in Nathon, boats to and from Donsak on the mainland arrive and depart every hour from 5:00 am until 6:00 pm (check for details). And inland on the island’s main ring-road there’re several large waterfall sites and a safari park with elephant trekking, animal shows and adventure tours. Further along, next to the Ford and Mazda dealers is a new Butterfly and Insect Kingdom Park.
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Hua Thanon
This predominately muslim village is home to the descendants of some of the island’s earliest settlers. There’s still a thriving fishing fleet and fish market and a natural coastline that’s survived the ravages of time. Just after the village (coming from Lamai) you can turn off the ring-road to the left and signs will direct you to the nearby Tiger Zoo, Aquarium and Sea-life Show, the Butterfly Farm, the Snake Farm and the local Rum Distillery.
Thong Krut
With its brightly coloured fishing boats and backdrop of small islands to the one side, and coconut plantations to the other, Thong Krut is a picturesque little village. Located in the southwest corner of the island, this is where you’ll come if you’re after a long-tail boat to take you to the nearby islands of Koh Tan and Koh Matsum. Lining the shore you’ll find a selection of simple restaurants offering Thai food, and particularly good seafood, as well as tour operators offering trips to the islands.
The Interior
Samui predominately consists of hills, mountains and coconut plantations. And few visitors make the time to appreciate its hidden beauty. One way to do so is to take the turning into Mae Nam Soi 1. A new road has recently been constructed that goes over the mountains all the way to Lamai. The drive is only about 20-25 minutes over 15 kilometres with a couple of stopping off areas that offer fabulous views. Another way to really get the full picture of Samui is from Tar Nim’s Magic Garden at the top of one of the island’s highest peaks. Built during a 25-year period by a local farmer the stone statues in the garden were sculpted by hand and sit over 2,000 feet above the beaches below.
HAND-MADE JEWELRY MADE TO ORDER. GOLD, SILVER, LEATHER, PRECIOUS AND SEMI PRECIOUS STONES. TWO LOCATIONS IN CHAWENG: 1ST: CHAWENG BEACH ROAD, PHONE: +(66)0 7742 2594 2ND: CENTRAL FESTIVAL SAMUI 2ND FLOOR, PHONE: +(66)0 7796 3811 WWW.THAILAND-JEWELRY.COM Nature Art Gallery Central Festival Samui CHAWENG BEACH ROAD
SAILS AHEAD! The 16th annual Samui Regatta promises to be more exciting than ever!
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You may well miss this. Although it would be a shame if you did. If you’re a resident then you’ll probably know. But if you’re here for just a week, then it all might sail right past – it’s not exactly a street parade that will sweep you up! On the other hand there’s a great deal going on, but you’ll need to do a bit of planning first. You’ll need to read this story for the background, then get yourself a cheap pair of binoculars! And clear your social calendar between 22nd and 27th May. The actual event is a little longer than this, but this is when the races are being held. Despite the fact that our island doesn’t yet have a marina, this regatta is actually hugely popular, and for several reasons. Firstly it’s actually the very last event in an extensive series of races that have been going on since last July as part of the Asian Yachting Grand Prix (AYGP). The whole schedule is quite hard to unravel, unless you’re in the know, but that shouldn’t concern you. However, all over the Asia-Pacific region, between Hong Kong and Singapore, and taking in Penang and Langkawi (Malaysia), The Philippines, Vietnam, Phuket for The King’s Cup, Singapore, and finally Samui, competitors have been pitting themselves against the elements and each other for the final outcome. And just a quick note here: there are a total of 12 possible stages in the AYGP. But not everyone takes part in all of them. In fact, the best six races are taken to qualify for an overall time. The final results and positions are worked out step-by-step. But, with Samui being the last event and also such a popular venue, almost every year it’s often all down to the last series of races on Samui before the actual winner finally emerges. And the other reason that Samui is so popular? Well it’s simply just so laid back and easy! It’s a great place for people to get together for the last event of the season, and everyone’s more or less guaranteed to meet up with competitors and friends that they might not have seen for a while. Plus there’s the fact that the on-shore hospitality seems to keep getting better and better from one year to the next. It’s hardly surprising that everyone wants to come to Samui to see how everything works out at the end of the season. And it’s not just the competitors, either. Each year increasingly more friends and supporters have taken time-out for a short break or a vacation to correspond with Samui’s regatta. It’s been estimated that around 20 people
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have already bought houses or land here, due to the event, and over 600 visitors are expected to be booking into accommodation, too. But, quite apart from the fact that Samui is so lovely, it’s just about right in the centre of the entire race arena. Bangkok Airways has direct flights from Singapore, Malaysia, Hong Kong and Phuket, so it only takes a couple of hours to get here from just about anywhere in the region. It’s ideal for the last and deciding event of the year – not to mention the parties which go with it! Another interesting fact is that many of the competitors don’t actually sail here on their boats. Few owners actually take the helm themselves for this, they hire a crew. And the costs of this can be enormous, unless it’s for very short distances. Thus it’s quite common for the owners, competitors and/or crew to fly ahead, whilst their boat itself comes on one of the freight transporters which are specially designed for this purpose. In fact with this event having become a fixed part of the Samui calendar, there are now companies here where competitors can charter a suitable transporter ship. It’s all big business and overall quite a boost for Samui’s economy. One way and another an informed estimate is that 20 million baht (almost $600,000 US) is created in the week of the Samui event. Although the event continues to attract increasingly more sponsors as it gets bigger year by year, thanks must to go to the stalwart of Centara Grand Beach Resort & Spa, which has faithfully lent its support to the event ever since it began back in 2002. This is where the pre-race registration takes place, together with the immigration and customs formalities. And it’s also where the final gala party is held, but on top of this there’s also the mid-week fun across the road at Zico’s Brazilian Grill & Bar, also sponsored by Centara. Thanks also have to go to the
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co-sponsors of the Tourist Authority of Thailand, the national ThaiBev corporation, plus several other local resorts and restaurants. And so, there you are, kitted out with a nice new pair of binoculars and all raring to go. What next? Well, the first thing to say is that if you’re keen enough to do this, then why not go the whole hog and get right out on the water in alongside the competitors? The way to do this is to book a place on one of the spectator boats, and these are readily available. Other than that, the competitors are close to the land at the start and finish points, off the coast of Chaweng and Lamai. And so the high viewpoints on the rocky road between Chaweng and Lamai are all a good bet. Look out for the action between 10:00 am and 4:00 pm each day. Keep an eye out in the southern part of Chaweng between the 19th and the 28th of May, Boats will be mooring-up several days before the required registration. One highlight of the opening weekend is the Children’s Regatta, in which kids from Samui, Koh Phangan, Phuket, Hua Hin and Songkla will be attending. On the 21st May the opening party is at Zicos, and there are daily prize awards, sponsored by local companies, after each day’s events, on the beach in-front of Centara. The full program for the week can be found on the website link below, together with dates and venues for the mid-week parties. Watch out for the sails ahead!
Rob De Wet
_____________________________________________________________ www.samuiregatta.com
AS FEATURED IN
AS FEATURED ON
C HILL DIFFERENT
6pm - 9pm President’s Seafood BBQ
Reservations: 077 458 100
/ BeachRepublic
HEIGHTENED BLISS Ascend to the heights and lose yourself for a while in the lovely surroundings of Eranda Herbal Spa.
In many ways spas are similar to restaurants. Both can look good from outside. Even when you walk into a restaurant, it can still feel great – so far so good. Then you’ll take note of the quality of the attention you get. And, of course, you’ll be shown the menu. Mostly you’ll already have a good idea about what you want. So you’ll pick your dish – and then the cooks get to work on the job. And spa or restaurant, it’s all the same so far. But it’s only when you start to eat your meal, or begin your spa treatment, that you come to realise what things are really like - sometimes a place that looks promising won’t deliver the goods. So how do you decide? How can you really tell what a spa (or a restaurant for that matter) is really going to be like? One way of course is by going online. But often things are way out of date, or have been written by . . . well, anyone at all, really. But here at Samui Holiday (and our sister The Samui Spa Guide) we actually go there and do it,
and then report back to you. And this is just what’s happened at Eranda Herbal Spa in Chaweng. It’s well-placed and easy enough to find – right at the very northern stretch of Chaweng Beach Road, just as the road twists uphill and you run out of buildings. But happily there’s no need at all to navigate your way there. If you live anywhere in the region of Chaweng, or as far away as Bophut and the sharp turn in the ring-road with Zazen Resort on your right, then you’ll be offered a pick-up and return service, from your resort to Eranda and back. And that good vibe continues throughout. The days have long-since vanished when ‘spa treatment’ meant getting a manicure or booking an hour on a sun bed. Certainly you’ll find a few city-style spas on Samui. But we’re a beautiful tropical island. And there are several places to go
where the landscaping and grounds are picture-postcard gorgeous. You’ll certainly discover the joys of this when you arrive at Eranda – it’s one of the loveliest places I’ve seen anywhere, set up a steep slope in the hill, and terraced into a beautiful garden setting complete with tinkling water features. It’s a promising start! And that promise continues to be fulfilled when you’re shown to the reception area and main pavilion with its sweeping sea views, and greeted by a smiling receptionist who’ll bring you an iced drink of ginger and tamarind juice. Gazing around you’ll notice the small buildings, the treatment rooms, tucked into the greenery at different levels; there are more of them out of sight up the hill. There’s actually enough space and staff here to comfortably take care of a group of up to 24 people, and the spa has organised a rotation schedule that’s dedicated to weddings and hen-days – but more of that in a moment. www.samuiholiday.com l 25
The facilities here are super. There are 10 luxurious private treatment ‘salas’ plus one large one, open-sided and airy, for up to 8 people. There’s a spectacular steam room that’s carved out of the natural rock, with an adjoining cool plunge pool with waterfall – with that amazing seascape as a backdrop. And all the products here use 100% natural ingredients that have not been tested on animals. These are both Thai and well-known imported items, all certified by the government. And so to the ‘menu’ that outlines all the treatments and packages available. And that, of course, is where the hands-on staff come into the picture. All of the staff are trained at the legendary massage and therapy school of Wat Po in Bangkok. But that’s not enough for Eranda. Anyone hoping for a job here has firstly to prove herself by actually working on the spa manager. If that shows promise, she’ll then undergo a kind of apprenticeship which involves daily training sessions over a period of six months. And at the end of that time she’ll finally be tested – she’ll be asked to work on not only the spa manager, but also two of the owners! You can be assured that when you come here you’ll be (literally) in the hands of a very sensitive and skilful person indeed.
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There are all the expected beautifying and regenerating treatments, including, massages, scrubs, body wraps and a series of facials. And here, of particular note is the rare ‘Pure Gold Eranda Facial’ in which, after a series of cleansing scrubs and a liquid seaweed peeling mask, followed by an aloe vera gel mask, finally tiny flakes of rejuvenating 99.9% pure gold are applied all over your face. The range of massages is extensive, too, and includes a walk-on-air ‘Moon Light Energy’ hot stone treatment which works on specific chakras. But the Ayurvedic therapies are not to be overlooked: there are numerous individual treatments, but the ‘Ultimate of Ayurvedic Shirodhara’ package that lasts for over three hours will do a lot to restore energies which are out of balance. Eranda specialises in combined treatments and therapies, and these packages are a particular favourite with wedding groups, as mentioned earlier. But to tie-in with this is the duo-massage package that’s aimed at the happy couple – although it’s just perfect for any pair of lovers from 18 years to 80! It’s a whole five hours that features a private steam room
and Jacuzzi. It begins with a Rice and Milk Body Scrub, moves on to a Tamarind and Herbs Wrap, then an Eranda Signature Massage. Then a reflexology session. Then onto that spectacular Gold Facial. And it all finally finishes with a spa drink and seasonal fruits to get you functional again! There are lots of both restaurants and spas on Samui. But if you’re looking for one of the best spa experiences around, then head for the heights and the bliss that Eranda Herbal Spa is guaranteed to bring – the restaurants I’ll leave entirely up to you!
Rob De Wet
______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7730 0323 or 0 7730 0321. www.erandaspa.com, www.erandaspa.co.th
AS SECURE AS AZUR
The Residences at Azur Samui offer unprecedented peace of mind.
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Thailand is at the very top of the list of global tourism destinations. The country offers friendly locals, a relatively low cost of living, stunning natural beauty, year round sun, and a culture that embraces ‘sanuk’ (or ‘fun’ in English) above almost all else. It’s no wonder then that along with an increase in tourist arrivals, Thailand is attracting a record number of expatriates who have chosen to make the country their home. Many of those expats make their way to Koh Samui, which has been sympathetically developed into an idyllic tropical island on which to reside. Koh Samui is now one of the most desired residential locations in Thailand. While many expats initially choose to rent, many ultimately wish to purchase their own home. However, with unfamiliar property laws, a litany of self-proclaimed ‘expert’ real estate agents, varied building standards, and property listings of sometimes questionable accuracy, the path to property ownership as an expat can be fraught with confusion.
Fortunately, choosing to work with the right people from the beginning can deliver simplicity and total peace of mind. Azur Samui is ideally located on Soi 2 in Maenam, on the North side of the island, only ten minutes or so from Fisherman’s Village, and 25 minutes to both the airport and the vibrant shopping and nightlife of Chaweng. On offer at Azur are luxurious private pool villas, ranging from 500 SqM to over 800 SqM. Apartments range from 55 SqM studio suites to 270 SqM private pool penthouses. The Clubhouse boasts a 26-metre infinity pool, fitness centre, yoga and Pilates studio, business centre, spa, private massage rooms, herbal steam room, and fully-equipped locker rooms. The entire environment has been carefully planned to maximise privacy, meaning no one unit has a view into or over any other. Azur Samui was conceived by Tim Dean-Smith, the founder and developer of one of the island’s premier hotels, Beach Republic. A
resident of Samui since 2008, Tim has decades of experience in construction and property development in the UK. In late 2015 Tim teamed up with another seasoned professional, Mike Ryan. Having run multiple successful developments spanning more than a decade in South Africa and the UK, Mike now brings his contagious enthusiasm, determined focus, and famous attention to detail to Azur Samui. Together, Tim and Mike offer more than just an excellent track record. The pair have a genuine passion for detailed design, quality craftsmanship, and environmentally friendly living – traits which are made abundantly clear on a visit to Azur Samui. The build quality at the development is actually far in excess of what is typically considered ‘acceptable’ on the island, with offerings like solid thermal insulation walls, inverter air conditioning units, energy-saving LED lighting, and heat pump hot water systems all coming as standard. All residences at Azur Samui face North, with what can only be described www.samuiholiday.com l 31
as phenomenal panoramic views of the Gulf of Thailand and the neighbouring island of Koh Phangan. With so many desirable attributes, it’s not surprising that already all of the apartments in Phase 1 have been sold and completed, together with eight of the impressive villas. When purchasing a home in a foreign country, security is an obvious consideration. Here too, Azur Samui excels. As Mike cheerfully explains, “There is a single entrance road, where the guardhouse is manned round the clock. The entire property is monitored 24/7 by an advanced HDCCTV system, and owners can view live footage on their smartphone from anywhere in the world.” Purchasing in a secure development also means that owners can leave their homes unoccupied for months at a time if they so wish, with no concern at all – a claim that can’t always be made by those who choose to buy standalone residences. The ongoing cost of ownership at Azur Samui is transparent and inexpensive. Electricity and water rates are charged at the standard government tariffs, plus a small 10% surcharge which is used to contribute to the cost of running the estate. The owners control all of the common areas, and the levies for upkeep and maintenance are set at actual cost, which the owners also control. Azur offers prospective owners the opportunity to purchase a fully completed apartment or villa, or they can choose to purchase off plan, working with the Azur Samui team to completely customise the unit.
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Obtaining financing to purchase a home in Thailand as a foreigner is notoriously difficult – even when approved, loan amounts are nominal and terms are arduous. Azur Samui offers up to 50% in-house financing, with a custom repayment plan to fit the buyer’s needs. And with the option of the rental management program, owners can offset the finance payments (or the purchase price if they are cash buyers) with passive rental revenue. Construction of the Clubhouse Residences, plus swimming pool and gym, is currently well underway, with scheduled delivery of completed apartments starting in Q3 2017. With the unique layout of the property, construction noise is kept to a minimum, which has allowed some owners to move in and others to rent out their units. The financing and rental options available, coupled with the location, build quality, facilities, services, variety of residences available, and of course the breathtaking view, make Azur Samui truly one of the most affordable and desirable developments on Koh Samui and perhaps in all of Thailand. Azur Samui is in a class on its own.
Rob De Wet
_____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 961 986 998. www.azursamui.com
OFF THE TRACK A look at what’s on offer with those off-road trips to the mountain.
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Sooner or later, you’ve got to move. You can’t stay by the pool forever! And when the jet lag has gone, you’ve browned up a bit, and it’s time to explore, there’s quite a bit to pick through. In fact, it can get confusing – particularly if you try this on the internet. The biggest problem with the ’net is that there’s no indexing or regulation – you could be looking at stuff posted five years ago which is no longer current. Anyway, you’ll probably do what 95% of our visitors do; pop down to reception and ask what have they got. Which is no bad thing at all. But first of all, a word of warning. This is Thailand. It’s not part of some kind of strictly regulated and monitored Euro-system, with tight laws and inspectors and internationally agreed standards and quality control. It’s a very free and easy-going nation – and that’s its joy. But it also means that you might well come across aspects of life here that will surprise your more sophisticated expectations. Many things, which are quite normal in daily Thai life, can take unwary travellers by surprise. For example, the attitude to working animals may not quite match what you’re accustomed to. You are inside an alien culture, so be prepared for this. Having said that, the best thing you can do (and its enormity is beyond the scope of this story!) is to talk to other people. Check-out their experiences and reactions. And the slickest way to handle this is to pick out a tour operator . . . and head straight for TripAdvisor. Yes, I know; it’s not perfect. But anyone who has done this a few times becomes zippy at reading between the lines and separating the moaning spoiled brats from the genuine grievances – and likewise, the ten glowing reports all
from different addresses, but all in the same style and all quite obviously all written by the same person. But the best thing? It seriously worries the dodgy operators. They hate bad reports because it loses them business. And so it’s time to go! You’ve decided. You’ve done your homework and made your choice. But there are still things you need to be aware of. Firstly, never forget that Samui is a small island. If you go up around the wilds of Chiang Mai in North Thailand, you can take a jungle elephant trek for two days, camp overnight, and never see a soul. You can’t do that here. Because of this, another thing to consider is that one activity alone won’t last very long. A trip up the mountain and back down will take you an hour. So all the companies combine several sights or activities together in one package to make it worth your while. And that’s fair enough, too. But it means driving around, quite obviously . . . we’re not in Disneyland. However, it’s an excellent way to see the island – and that’s part of the fun. So, having established the bare bones of, and the thinking behind these trips, what’s it all about? Where is there to go, and what is there to look at or do? Answer: probably eight or nine things, in various combinations, selected packages of which are being offered by all the companies who run these ‘jungle tours’. So what do you not get from a jungle safari? Well you don’t actually get ‘jungle’, because there isn’t really any on Samui. Instead, what has become generally referred to as ‘jungle’ is anywhere that there isn’t a road and that’s overgrown with trees and bushes. However, the thousands of trips per year made by
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the 4-wheel drive trucks that run these limited routes have beaten broad avenues through the undergrowth, most of which are clearly visible on Google Maps – you won’t need machetes to hack your way through the undergrowth! Second, the word ‘safari’ is used loosely and colourfully in this context. You won’t be in the wilds for a week, need to pitch tents at dusk, keep an eye out for wild animals or have need of native bearers. Instead, you’ll be picked up from your resort and driven around, collecting others trippers. You’ll probably then all climb off together somewhere, and assemble for a pep talk about the trip. And then, depending on your package option, proceed to experience one or more of the following things, before being returned from whence you came. Firstly, a short elephant walk is very ‘jungly’, so that’s usually included, taking up around 20 minutes or so. A visit to one of the pleasant waterfalls is high on the list, as is a look at some very safe crocodiles and/or snakes. Then a haul up the mountain to a viewpoint or, if you’re lucky, the wonderful so-called ‘Buddha’s Magic Garden’. Perhaps a photo opportunity with a mummified monk wearing Elvis-style sunglasses. Then the local tradition of monkeys picking coconuts. Plus, if you go for the deluxe package, probably a glimpse of the Big Buddha temple, some rocks shaped like genitals, and a short stop to look at a lot of skinny trees in neat rows that you’ll be told is a rubber plantation. Oh – and usually a ‘traditional meal’ is chucked in for good measure and authenticity. It’s not our place to point fingers, for better or worse. But, having looked through TripAdvisor for added confirmation, a couple of names stand out from the crowd. These are people who have been here forever, have made their mistakes and long ago learned from them, and seem to get far fewer critical internet reports than others. The first is Mr Ung’s Magical Safari Tours. And these guys not only offer ‘safaris’ but run all sorts of water-based excursions, too. And the other is Living Thailand Tours, quite often referred to as ‘Baan Chang’ (‘The Elephant House’). The family who run this were the first to bring elephants to the island and treat them with more love and respect than is usually seen. Plus it’s very much their life, and they’ve even built their pleasant family house tucked away in one corner of the compound – and that speaks volumes!
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And the bottom line? It’s fun! You could do it yourself just as easily. But what the heck! You’re on holiday. It’s all laid on for you and it’s a great day out. It’s an excellent way to see around the island with no chance of getting lost, you’ll get the sun, you’ll see the sights and you’ll make new friends. It’s not exactly Indiana Jones or Tomb raider stuff, but then this
isn’t Hollywood, it’s little old Samui. And a holiday here isn’t a holiday, unless you’ve headed off the beaten track at least once!
Rob De Wet
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SUPER SUPERPRO We take a look at a Samui getaway that’s breaking barriers and bringing people together in harmony – Superpro Samui.
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It’s like a lot of things. There are always two sides to it. On the one hand there are the people on the inside – the ones in the know. They’re the folk who know all the jargon and are familiar with the ins-and-outs of it all. And then there are the rest of us, the ‘general public’. Sure, we’ve heard some names and words maybe, but we don’t really know what the details are about. We’ve just got an impression; no more than that. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s car engines, computers, or Muay Thai, we need to know more to feel comfortable. Superpro Samui is generally described as a ‘Muay Thai training camp’. And those who are already inside the inner circles will understand this perfectly. They’ll not only know the name, but will also know what it’s all about too, as this place is internationally famous. It’s quite likely that many of you reading this will have heard of Muay Thai and will be nodding, going “. . . right, that’s Thai boxing.” And then you’ll probably look at the pictures and turn over the page without reading any further. But it would be a great pity if you did!
even though it was much smaller than todays facility, quickly became a presence on the international martial arts circuit. And then two years later, Robbie Timmers came on board. Robbie had already long-since been involved with the martial arts scene back in The Netherlands, and had established the biggest online martial arts magazine (‘fighttalk’) in that country, plus a string of related shops, as well as organising tournaments and events, and managing professional athletes. He was intrigued, and decided to give it a go for a year to see how it would work out. And what happened was that he became very much involved. So much so that he fell in love with the island, moved to live here full time and joined the enterprise as a partner. And in the years that followed, the thinking behind Superpro gradually expanded to turn it into the much bigger idea that it is today.
Because Superpro is actually not only one of the best-equipped gyms in the island, but is also probably one of the best family fitness centres in all of Thailand – the programs are extensive, the equipment is plentiful and state-of-the-art (‘Life Fitness’ and ‘Technogym’) and there are more than a dozen resident trainers if you need them. And If you don’t, then you’re welcome to come here and use the facilities anyway – but more about this in a moment.
An outsider might well imagine that a Muay Thai training camp would be some kind of macho thing, all sweat and testosterone and arm wrestling contests, where trainee boxers lived in tents and went jogging at dawn like American marines. In truth Superpro could quite easily be marketed as a laid-back island family-holiday village, with 50 comfortable modern apartment rooms, plus a pleasant swimming pool, to cater for all types of guests – but in this case with the emphasis on health and fitness. And if you are already staying elsewhere then you’re warmly invited to use the gym (it’s only 200 baht a day) or to join in with one of the scheduled group CrossFit sessions, or any of the training.
Superpro Samui started off back in 2006, founded by a couple of Dutch partners, Remon Daalder and Edwin Van Os. Remon had enjoyed a long and successful career as a promoter and kickboxing manager, and Edwin brought not only his experience as a promoter, but also his expertise as a well-known gym owner and trainer. The first stage,
“A lot of people see martial arts and Muay Thai as a very specialised discipline,” Robbie explained. “And it certainly is. But here we’ve worked hard to establish a much wider concept. As well as having rigorous programs for serious fighters in Muay Thai, Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) and Brazilian jujitsu, there are beginners’ classes for all ages,
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too. We have world-class trainers, but they are also aware that people have different goals – from becoming a professional fighter (or learning the basics), to keeping fit or simply losing weight. But there’s now a very wide range of facilities, activities and programs. And this means that, say, if someone’s here for a couple of weeks on holiday, they can work with us in any way that they want so it can fit in with their time here. The atmosphere is super. Everyone is open and friendly towards each other because they share the same outlook and aims. Sport is one of the few things that cross international boundaries – it’s a great social leveller!” It’s worth mentioning that during his previous life back in The Netherlands, Robbie also found time to run clubs and events for street kids, and volunteered to visit prisons and hold training sessions and classes for the inmates – it’ll give you a better idea of where he’s coming from. And that also explains his decision to expand the ‘camp’ here on Samui to include the increased variety of accommodation and the extended range of facilities. Coming down the small side street to Superpro (very close to Bangkok Hospital Samui) doesn’t immediately reveal the extent of the facilities here. But then you’ll come to something that’s the size of a modern aircraft hangar, with four pro boxing rings next to each other and a big area with mats, bags and pads. Across from this is the gleaming 44 l www.samuiholiday.com
weights gym with cardio machines, with the MMA cage alongside. The accommodation is partly above this, and with a whole added section, plus the pool, at the rear. And the associated CrossFit hall is just nearby. Although you can use the facilities at any time you want, group training sessions are scheduled to run between 8:00 am and 10:00 am, then again in the cooler period between 5:00 pm and 7:00 pm, every day except Sunday (when the gym is open but there are no classes). There are also yoga sessions every Tuesday and Thursday evening, but with the emphasis on flexibility rather than meditation. You’ll find all the info you need about courses, costs, trainers and staff, plus the exact location, and much more, on their excellent website listed below. You may not have heard of Superpro before – but believe me, they got the name spot on!
Rob De Wet
_____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7741 4393. www.superprosamui.com
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BRINGING IT ALL BACK HOME
The best way to bring back something significant from your Thailand trip is to plan it all out before you come!
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On the whole, this is probably the most mismanaged aspect of trips abroad. But there are also lots of variables here, too. A holiday abroad? A trip abroad? One week or three months? A gap-year where you’re moving around the world? All these things are vastly different. And yet they’ve all got one thing in common. In every one of these scenarios people will take things back with them at the end. A lot of these will be spontaneous on-the-spot buys. But if you’re wise, it can be a lot more fulfilling. So why not spend as much time planning this aspect, as you’ll no doubt spend online checking out hotels and restaurants before you come? Another element is what age-group you’re in. An Australian friend of mine used to work for the customs department. And it was a source of 48 l www.samuiholiday.com
amusement to her when planes flew in from Bangkok. The first rule here was that absolutely everyone brings things back from Bangkok. And the second guestimate was that 99% of these will be illegal. Bear it in mind that a Thailand trip has virtually become a rite of passage for young Aussie teens. Thus some truisms emerge. The main one was that nobody ever planned what they brought back – everything was bought on impulse. And then it gets silly, as nearly everything that was confiscated at customs could just as well have been bought online via any dodgy internet trader. Top of the list were weapons – flick knives, throwing stars, blowguns, batons, slingshots, and even replicas of military guns. And then there was also a sprinkling of the unregulated pharmaceuticals available here.
Thus let’s look at the other side of the coin - a family. Or at least a handful of individuals of mature years sufficient that Thai ‘culture’ implies historical and social artefacts, as opposed to where to get fake ID cards, party substances and boasting about how many ‘buckets’ you drank before passing out. And this is the point where the time factor comes into the equation. The majority of visitors to Thailand are here for an average stay of 10 days. Breaking this down further, there are millions who are here only for around five days – most significantly the recent influx of Chinese tourists who now descend in organised waves. For short-stay guided tourists like this, there is little in the way of choice as to what they’ll be taking home. Their itinerary will include an enforced afternoon at a gold and gems
emporium, and another one at a huge mall such as Bangkok’s Siam Paragon or MBK. Indeed, anyone of any nationality who is factually ‘on holiday’ is very much limited to taking home artefacts – items you can buy in the shops. There’s simply not the time to consider absorbing moreinteresting possibilities, such as learning the Thai language, taking on a course of Thai cooking classes or even getting involved with Muay Thai, the world-famous Thai kick boxing. And then there’s the other end of the scale; people who come here on an extended tourist visa and stay for between two and six months. Traditionally many of these are outdoor workers, escaping from the unseasonal winter weather, or oil workers who go for long periods without a break. And then the masses from the former USSR: most are www.samuiholiday.com l 49
able to network online and many of them come and go, maintaining their wives and children here all year round. Really, anyone who comes here for more than just a couple of weeks will be able to take advantage of the hundreds of different types of real bargains that are available in Thailand. Yes, we’ve immediately got the usual shopping lists – fake designer goods from watches to Polo shirts and handbags and purses and wallets. Mostly no problem, unless you try to act nonchalant about 100 Rolexes in your suitcase. Plus the temptation of Thai gemstones of course: but whole books have been written about the pitfalls of looking for a bargain here. However this is where the idea of planning comes in. Nearly everyone I’ve ever spoken to about this has been set in their thinking: buy things here and carry them home on the plane. Which is probably the worst thing to do, as inevitably you’re limited to just a few kilos. So this is where you think long and hard about mailing them back instead.
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Consider what you are buying and the comparative cost back home. Keep it in mind that international sea freight runs to about $10 a kilo. Then realise that, even allowing for possible import duties, you can mail back a goodly amount of exquisite craftwork and similar items for probably about one-third of the comparable cost back home – if you can even find items of this sort of quality. The obvious things are tailor-made clothes, for instance. (But do research your tailor first; some use cheap labour and produce shoddy goods.) The entire range of spa products: Thailand is famous for these and they are expensive to buy in other countries. Then objet’s d’art and cultural items and woodcarvings: you can pack some good stuff into a 20kg box. Fine authenticated silks by Jim Thomson: add them to any package you send, it’ll cost you nothing. Even Thai foodstuffs and curry pastes; half an hour in 7-11 will fill a goodie bag that’ll last you for ages. But lesser-known bargains come in the form of cutlery or tableware.
Established on Koh Samui in 2003, our lifestyle retreat center, offers all inclusive programs for your body, mind and spirit.
Yoga Retreats & Training Detox, De-stress, Weight Loss & Wellness Spa
Programs How about a full 18-place cutlery set made out of rosewood and bronze that comes in its own velvet-lined box? (The box alone is a work of art and weighs 5kg.) This will cost you around 3,500 baht plus shipping (about $150). Or the height of Thai extravagance, a full Royal Thai gold-leaf Benjarong dinner service? These can be found in Bangkok’s Emporium or Siam Paragon Mall, and there are two shops in Emporium which will pack this very carefully for overseas shipping (but take this to the post office yourself – their shipping charges are unrealistic). And with something fragile like this – make sure it’s insured! It only takes a moment’s thought. But once you realise, you’ll be shipping it all back home instead!
Rob De Wet
Asia’s top wellness resort
BEST YOGA RETREAT
Located on Laem Sor Beach
Connect with our team!
t: 077 920 090 | e: info@samahitaretreat.com
www.samahitaretreat.com
REPUBLICAN
PLEASURES We take a look at the culinary side of one of the island’s most refined beach clubs – Lamai’s Beach Republic.
There’s a lot in a name. Call a place a café and it paints a mental picture. But deem it a bistro and that’s something else. It’s the same with beach clubs. Twenty years ago we all knew what they were: a seething mass of 18-30s, a DJ, the latest loud music and all-night parties on the sand. But things have changed. At the one end of the scale there are restaurants playing non-stop music with beanbags on the beach – they put ‘beach club’ in their name, but they still don’t get the idea. And then at the far end of the spectrum we’ve got the real deal; purpose-built environments with full-service aims and intent. And that’s exactly what you’ll be delighted to discover when you venture into Beach Republic. When it first appeared in 2009, it caused a bit of a stir. Samui is not well known for setting trends. In fact it’s rather traditional, especially when it comes to architectural style. And yet here was an attractive new development, with not just a super beach frontage, but also 39 discreetly tucked away high-end villas and suites, plus an opulent spa and fitness centre, together with an excellent restaurant and a very laid-back pool area. And all of it was simply and plainly styled; clean, bright and 54 l www.samuiholiday.com
almost Mediterranean in feel. But what caught everyone’s eye, and held their attention, was the dramatically-designed main roof. This is the first thing you see as you come through the main entrance; an embryonic essay in gigantic suspended curves. Beneath this is a very shady huge open-plan dining and lounging area, with the white walls and the bright red accents enhancing the contemporary décor. This floor extends itself naturally out from under the roof, around the pool and towards the beach, creating another comfy and relaxed area filled with immense daybeds, bright sunshades and pool loungers, that’s naturally bounded by a giant boulder to the right. And on the other side of this is another pool plus an open-fronted dining / function space on two floors with a raised deck and an island-style bar. This is ideal for private functions and lends itself perfectly to a wedding reception – something for which this venue is renowned. It has to be said that in the early days, Beach Republic’s initial thrust was towards the young at heart and the late-night party scene. But, like
all new ventures, once the dust had settled and everything had become established, the direction and the clientele emerged all by themselves, and in effect a whole new genre of Samui getaways had appeared. It was refined, up-market, sophisticated and easy. Instead of a pool parade of trendy fashionistas poised and posing to pounding tunes, a gamut of discerning patrons manifested themselves, and the club went on to become one of the most relaxed venues on the island. Right from the start the intention was not just to create an indulgent poolside ambiance, but also to run this alongside a range of superb eats, too. The kitchen has always been overseen by some of the island’s top chefs, and the daytime menu has not only stood the test of time, but has continued to be expanded and refined. There’s a tantalising range of tapas and a big selection of salads, pizza and pasta, plus a selection of light and popular Thai plates, too. And even several seafood and fish platters for those for whom the daytime heat is not a deterrent. But it’s when that fiery orb begins to drop and the sky turns to orange and gold that the menu changes again.
To begin with, Beach Republic invites all citizens to indulge themselves at this time of day, in one way or another, with their Weekly Lineup which features a different inducement on every day of the week. For example it might be the Monday all-day free-flow – that’s three hours of non-stop wine, or beer or cocktails for only 999 baht. Or the Wicked Wednesday bottle service, 2-for-1, that runs alongside selected spirits beers and wines at 99 baht a glass. Or Fiesta Friday’s Montezuma’s Mojito Madness. And every single day there’s 2-for-1 on wines, beers and signature cocktails between the hours of 5:00 pm and 7:00 pm, anyway. And all of these are an inducement to reach with even greater enthusiasm for the fully-featured dinner menu. The ingredients used here are prime – Australian grass-fed beef, lamb from the same nation, Tasmanian and Scottish salmon. Heading the seafood section are the superb Andaman Sea lobsters. Pizzas are truly Italian and super-crispy. The pasta is gourmet, with lobster, lamb and truffles as stars of the show. Plus the desserts are to die for – with caramelised apple tart, molten chocolate www.samuiholiday.com l 55
fondant, banoffee, cheesecake and crème brûlée all screaming “eat me!” at the same time. This menu is in place every evening. But there are a couple of special nights that run in parallel with this that are particularly worthy of note. Every Wednesday look out for the President’s Seafood BBQ which runs between 6:00 pm and 9:00 pm. The area is transformed by the big ice-boat that’s filled with lobsters, prawns, squid, blue crab, green mussels and sea bass, all sold by weight. Take your pick and then decide how you want it prepared. Plain BBQ with salad? Or get into the swing and try it with red or green curry. Or chopped and stir-fried in one of several ways. Or even get it ‘souped’ – prepared for your table as tom yum or tom ka. Plus of course there are all the usual suspects in the form of the salad bar, jacket potatoes, corn on the cob and various meat skewers.
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And then the following evening it’s Big Fish Thursday. This is easy to put in words but impossible to imagine: it’s one gigantic silver platter filled with salmon steak, lobster, mussels, crab prawns, snapper and squid, together with a selection of salads and sides. It’s actually for two people, but you’ll need to be determined. It’s huge! And at just 1,990 ++ it’s deliciously-priced, too. But then it’s just one of the many gastronomic pleasures that are sitting waiting for you in Lamai, at Beach Republic!
Rob De Wet
_____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7745 8100. www.beachrepublic.com
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MARITIME MAGNIFICENCE Samui’s amazing surroundings are all within reach, and Sa-ard’s Watersport Center enables you to explore them all in affordable style.
Some people come to Samui to learn martial arts, or cooking or how to meditate. They know what they want, and have in mind extremely welldefined pursuits. But what’s your chief holiday objective? It’s probably a little bit vague, especially if you’re here on Samui for the first time. And why not? Holidays are an occasion to get away from all planning and rigorous living. But in all probability, what you’d like from your holiday is simply a great time. And that means many, many happy memories. Even more so if you’ve brought your children with you; you’ll want them to have a store of those memories to look back on in later life. Samui will provide them – the beaches, mountains, the activities and all the things there are to do will all be memorable. But if you’re looking for something that’ll really stand out, a peak amongst the high hills, so to speak, then it’s a bit harder to find something of such excellence. But not too difficult, really. Some of the very best experiences are to be had just offshore. A lot of people don’t think of this; after all, if you’ve travelled thousands of miles to be on an island, why would you then hop on a boat to visit other islands? Fair question. But around Samui, there are some sights which are extraordinarily beautiful that it’d be a shame to miss out on them. For example, there’s a necklace of some 70 islands just off the west coast that are so gorgeous that they’ve been turned into a national park – the Angthong National
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Marine Park. They’re completely unspoiled, very few people live on them, and today they remain much as they’ve been ever since they came into existence. They are the kind of tropical setting that people dream of back home, and seem to belong to a hypothetical picture post card world. But the surprise is that they are indeed here and that they really do exist. And they’re really not far away either. All you need to do is to hop on a boat. Sa-ard is one of the top companies that take people out to see the park, as well as all the other equally wonderful destinations. The company always ensures a great day out, and is well-known for its expertise. The team offers the very best when it comes to service, with captains who have a brilliant knowledge of the area around Samui and beyond; they know which beaches are the best and at what time of the year. You’ll experience blue waters and white sand beaches and a tropical setting that seems to have stepped out of a dream or at least a film (think The Beach, but without the mayhem). Sa-ard has various tour destinations for you to enjoy. There are tours round Samui where you’ll be able to appreciate the beauty of the island before stopping off at the near-deserted islet of Koh Taen, where you can follow a nature trail that takes you through a mangrove forest.
Another favourite trip is to head north to Koh Pha-Ngan, stopping for a snorkel session and then a visit to a beach on the island. Sa-ard can also take you slightly further afield to Koh Tao, justly famed for its dive sites. From there onwards, a speed boat takes you to the small island of Koh Nang Yuan, where you can swim, snorkel or just laze for a while on the brilliant white sands here. Sa-ard also offers day fishing trips in the local waters and a romantic sunset cruise along the northern shore of Samui, taking in Tongsai Bay and Big Buddha. It goes without saying that on day trips there’s a delicious lunch included, so nobody will go hungry. This is definitely a company that likes to look after its guests. Sa-ard is named after one of its owners, Khun Sa-ard Panyawan. He’s a national windsurf champion, and can often be seen on the road and competing in cycle races – definitely an outdoor kind of person. He was an activities operator for a five-star hotel on Samui, and got to know the island’s waters before setting up his company along with his brother. They bought a boat, became increasingly popular and over the years went from strength to strength, steadily adding more boats to their fleet. There’s the extremely nippy 6 metre ‘Panyawan’ seating five people, then double its size, a speedboat that includes a shower
BEACHFRONT DINING & COCKTAILS RockPool at Kanda Residences is a spectacular beachfront restaurant and bar situated just five minutes from Chaweng
For reservations or more information call +66 77 234 500 www.rockpoolsamui.com Facebook: rockpool.kohsamui Daily high tea from 12pm and happy hour with buy one get one free on selected drinks from 5pm until 7pm.
and toilet on board, plus food and drink on request. Both these boats go out to the Angthong National Marine Park, but are also used for organized tours around Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao and Koh Nang Yuan. They’re also available for private fishing charters or can also be reserved for transport to and from the Full Moon Party, either on a daily rate or by the hour. Khun Lek also has a mid-sized cabin cruiser which can easily accommodate 17 passengers and is a great for diving or touring. It’s no problem to request food and drink to be brought along for the trip, and in addition you can bring your favourite DVDs as the boat comes with flat-screen TV. The gem of the fleet is an elegant sleek 13-metre catamaran ideal for touring the islands if you’re planning on a jaunt that’ll last a few days. She can hold 15 people for day-trips and can sleep six. There’s also a
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big, well-equipped galley, and a living room with its own entertainment centre. Nights, you’ll be able to enjoy good times in style and it’ll never get too hot as there’s a very efficient air-con system. The maritime world of the Gulf of Thailand is entrancingly beautiful, and will provide memories that’ll stay with you forever. It’s worth taking a break from Samui and seeing the islands and beaches that are so near at hand. With Sa-ard’s team you’ll be in the best hands and they’ll show you highlights that are simply too good to miss.
Dimitri Waring
_____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7724 7656. www.saardswatersport.com
INVESTING IN KOH SAMUI PROPERTY? Meet the man behind of some of the island’s most exciting developments.
Koh Samui was once a destination for backpackers, who flocked to the island to enjoy their freedom while residing in 100 baht per night bungalows on Chaweng Beach. Twenty-five years later, Samui is one of Asia’s trendiest resort destinations, with an abundance of five star hotels, restaurants run by Michelin starred chefs … and luxury properties. As you drive around the island and look up at the luxury villas nestled in the hillsides, have you ever wondered who might be behind their construction? Well, here you have the chance. We sat down with one of Samui’s property developers to find out what it’s like to build luxury homes on a tropical island, and to get an ‘insider’s perspective’. The developer in question is Rodney Waller. Recent developments under his belt include The Ridge, ‘an exclusive residential development of luxury pool villas in the prime North East’ (www.theridgesamui.com) and Oasis Samui, ‘a signature collection of pool villas set in a tropical oasis overlooking the ocean in Lamai’ (www.oasissamui.com). Indeed, The Ridge has the distinction of winning the prestigious Thailand Property Awards and the title of ‘Best Residential Development (Koh Samui) 66 l www.samuiholiday.com
2014 – 2015. Renowned for the highest quality construction standards and attention to detail, his current portfolio of villas under construction, or for sale off-plan, ranges from 11 million up to 32 million Thai baht (USD 315,000 – 915,000). Waller is a quiet individual whose relaxed manner belies his creative and intelligent mindset. While he has obviously been successful in his field, he is both down-to-earth and quite unpretentious. If you met him in the street, you might mistake him for a well-dressed tourist instead of the man behind so many successful property developments. What brought him to Koh Samui? He explains that it was a combination of career choice and circumstance. Previously living and working in Hong Kong, he tired of the frenetic corporate rat-race and pollution, choosing instead the fresh air, beautiful surroundings and ‘more humane’ lifestyle to be found on the island. “I appreciate living somewhere you can simply drive to a restaurant and park outside, without the congestion or parking meters”.
His approach to developing and construction is simple: “We build luxury villas that are beautiful, functional and homely,” he says. “Our architecture is of course modern and contemporary, usually with bold sweeping roofs, angular terraces and well-proportioned usable spaces: but most important, they feel like a home rather than a building. Sometimes developers make the mistake of going too clinical and square, to the point where the house loses its flow, together with its homely feel. With our developments, there is great emphasis on designing homes that are practical, since they are often used as rental properties, but also welcoming.” So what are the key factors determining the success of Waller’s developments? First, he is ‘hands-on’. “This is crucial, especially in Thailand,” he says. “You have to be on site every day to supervise every brick, concrete block, steel beam and window panel. There is no other way to ensure you deliver what you have promised.” Second, durability is a key factor when building homes in such an unforgiving environment; in other words, monsoon rains, fierce tropical
sun and – most importantly if properties are rented to tourists on a daily basis – wear and tear from guests. To this end, Waller uses top end powder-coated windows and doors (which don’t expand or contract) and hard-wearing materials such as marble, quartz and granite. The aim is to select materials that fit well with the natural environment and also withstand the wear and tear associated with rental use. He then adds details such as wooden balustrades, feature walls and soft lighting to ensure a property is a place you want to come back to, instead of a generic luxury hotel. That’s not all. “Third, we plan in extreme detail,” Waller says. “Before we start, not only have architectural and engineering plans been doublechecked, every material, component and colour has been selected and specified to fit well together. We know the end result we want to achieve and a beautiful house is not something that happens by accident; it’s planned and executed in minute detail. For instance, we design the electrical plans as though we are designing our own homes: the location of light switches, floor sockets, soft lighting – basically the ergonomic flow of the property has to be natural and seamless – no feeling for light www.samuiholiday.com l 67
switches in the dark or colliding with a piece of furniture blocking a walk-way.” Fourth, each property is unique, especially in relation to the land it sits on. “As construction proceeds, we will walk around as a team and make minor design modifications based on the topography of the land and its natural features, such as the presence of rocks, which we will try to incorporate into the design. This means that large rocks sometimes appear next to pools, giving the feeling of swimming in nature. Such details can add to the overall design concept. There is also room for flexibility and customers often wish to customize their homes and investments.” Fifth, when it comes to furniture and finishings, Waller strikes a balance between keeping colours warm and soft, which will appeal to most nationalities, together with a focus on the ‘wow’ factor, i.e. items that surprise in a positive way, and add to the overall aesthetics of the home. For example, the selection of tiles and sanitary accessories to create stunning bathrooms; Jacuzzis incorporated into seating areas within swimming pools; moon terraces where guests can relax in the evening and stargaze. Each detail combines to create the total impression.
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“Putting all of this together helps to explain our successful sales record,” he says. “And it also means we have a track record of satisfied customers and villa owners. Our villa buyers are not just investors and owners, they’re friends. There’s usually some level of client involvement during the planning and construction stages and friendships inevitably develop. Since these properties are often rented out after completion and need future care and maintenance, that’s important.” This leads to Waller’s choice of career in the first place. “For me, property development has always been a passion, because what you build will be standing there for 50, or perhaps 100 years. It’s something tangible you can look at in future and be proud of.”
Dimitri Waring
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SOME SOM TAM
One of Thailand’s most popular dishes has several varieties, here’s the lowdown on this tasty salad.
What? Never heard of it? Well, if it’s your first time to Thailand, you’re forgiven. But now take note, as you’re unlikely to find a Thai restaurant that doesn’t serve its own version of this tangy, crispy and moreish salad. Som tam is made from raw, grated papaya mixed with small tomatoes, long beans, peanuts, dried shrimp, chilli and garlic, and seasoned with palm sugar, lime juice and fish sauce. Voila – you have som tam! Or at least one version of it. The dish is often served with fresh local vegetables on the side to ease the effect of the chilli, such as long beans, sliced cabbage or cucumber. And to make the meal complete, it goes well with sticky rice. Marinated charcoal-grilled chicken, or maybe some grilled marinated catfish are also popular accompaniments to a satisfying som tam meal. This green papaya salad is particularly popular in in the northeast of Thailand, in Issan, where it originated. The dish was made without any palm sugar as food from Issan was known for its strong spicy flavours, not for sweetness, combining preserved crab, pla ra (fermented fish),
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tamarind juice, beans, and salt. It wasn’t until som tam gained popularity and spread to Bangkok that sugar, along with other ingredients, were added, as many people from Issan started tomove to the capital city for work. Since then, som tam has evolved into different versions, and almost every Thai has their opinion on what makes the best som tam, often ordering it tailored to their tastes. Some like it sweeter, others saltier, and yet others prefer it more sour. But it’s the balancing of these three flavours, along with the freshness of the ingredients that gives som tam the powerful and rather addictive punch that it’s famed for. Most Thais don’t consider som tam to be a fancy restaurant dish, but rather buy it from a local vendor. Away from the tourist areas, they’re not likely to pay more than 40 or 50 baht for a portion from a street vendor. Along with curries and phad Thai, som tam is up at the top of the list of Thai culinary treasures, and versions of Thailand’s famed papaya salad can also be found in Laos and Cambodia.
Welcome to Sa-ard’s Watersports Center on Koh Samui. Where everyday can be an aquatic adventure – above and below the crystal clear blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand. Join us and discover what r eally makes these islands so very special. Our brand new catamaran Fountaine Pajot Belize 43 “Kindred Spirit” can comfortably take 15 people on a day trip and sleep 6 people on over-night excursions. The starboard hull has a double stateroom with ensuite bathroom and living area. There are also two double state rooms in the port hull with a shared bathroom. You’ll also find a large galley and a living area with CD/DVD player and a 28 inch colour TV. All the cabins and living areas are fully air-conditioned. Sa-ard’s Watersports Center also offers Private Speedboat tours to the beaches and snorkeling destinations of the surrounding islands.
You’ll find several different types of som tam in Thailand these days. Here’s a run-down on the most common variations: Som tam Thai: This has the basic ingredients of shredded green papaya, chilli, garlic, lime juice, tomatoes and long beans, with the addition of crunchy roasted peanuts, palm sugar and dried shrimp. Som tam pu: Here you have the basics, with the addition of well brined black crabs and sometimes palm sugar. Pu translates to crab, so if you see ‘pu’ or ‘poo’ in any Thai dish’s name, don’t be alarmed, there’s no sinister ingredients involved! Som tam Thai sai pu: This is som tam Thai, with the addition of brined crabs. Som tam Thai goong sod: This version consists of som tam Thai, with the extra ingredient of cooked shrimp (goong translates to shrimp/prawn, and sod means fresh as opposed to dried).
Manager and Skipper is Sa-ard, one of Thailand’s most celebrated windsurfers. He took part in the Olympics 1984 in Los Angeles and 1992 in Barcelona, was a long time member of the Thai National Windsurfing Team, has been Asian Champion and 5 times Gold Medal Winner in the South East Asian Games. You simply could not be in better hands!
Som tam pu pla ra: Again we have the basic ingredients, but made fancier with the addition of brined crabs (pu) and pickled fermented fish (pla ra). Som tam Lao: It’s the basic, minus tomatoes, but with pla ra. Som tam sua: Here we have som tam Lao, and added to that, kanom jeen (rice noodles), for a bit of a twist. Som tam khai khem: For added protein and flavour, som tam Thai, has the extra ingredient of salted eggs (khai means egg, and khem, salty). Som tam moo grob: Crispy pork is added to som tam Thai (moo is pork, and grob means crispy). The list can go on and on with what you can put in your som tam, be it crispy fish, dried fish, or even mussels. Replacing some or all of the papaya with another fruit or vegetable, such as cucumber, green mango or apple, is also an option and carrot is already a popular addition to papaya in many restaurants. Som tam is usually prepared at the top end of the spicy scale, so if your palate isn’t accustomed to the heat, remember to ask for it ‘mai phet’, or not spicy. This fragrant, spicy salad packs a real punch and is eaten any time of the day. So we challenge you to give it a try if you’re not already hooked. Start with the basics if the thought of fermented fish or brined crab doesn’t appeal at first. From there, get a little more adventurous with your choice of som tam. Save the other Thai favourites for the fancy restaurants.
Rosanne Turner
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KOH KIDS When it comes to sheer fun, Samui has plenty of treats for children.
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Samui’s often called a paradise on earth; an increasingly sought-after holiday destination that attracts visitors from all over the world. But it’s one thing to spend time on Samui as an adult, and quite another to come as a child. Grown-ups may relish lying in hammocks for hours, heading out for a boozy evening in Chaweng or just lingering in a stylish restaurant. But what exactly is there to do on Thailand’s third largest island if you’re still a child? How can families have a happy time, with everyone enjoying themselves? Alas, the popular concept of ‘fun for all the family’ doesn’t work. The few exceptions prove the rule – there aren’t many activities that people of all ages are going to enjoy. No use then believing in the simplistic idea that mum, dad and little ones will all simultaneously be grinning from ear to ear and from dawn till dusk while on holiday. What we’re saying here is that on a typical day, everyone can have some fun – but there’ll have to be some turn-taking. That’s blindingly obvious – but a lot of things get forgotten when the wheels of the plane touch down on sunny Samui. Adults can get so wrapped up in the happy
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hedonism of the island that they can’t understand it when their children express feelings of boredom. Your little ones will no doubt enjoy the beach, but may tire of it quicker than you hoped. They may struggle to articulate that here, there isn’t the familiar bouncy castle on the promenade (there isn’t even a promenade!) and that the beach here with its incandescent sands and over-heated air is as hot as a toaster. Or maybe that the hotel swimming pool isn’t filled with other children, and the sight of adults lounging on loungers and sipping on strawberry daiquiris just isn’t really, well, fun. Children here on the island like a bit of beach, but not for too long. They’ll feel twice as uncomfortable in the heat as you might, and unless you’re very careful they’ll be salmon-pink after an hour. The mere fact that they won’t be able to romp around outdoors for hours on end needs to be taken into consideration. So you’ll need to rely on some of the other activities that the island has to offer. The good news is that there’s plenty to do, even on a longish holiday here, rain or shine. Here’s a brief but not exhaustive line up:
Malls and indoor activities Central Festival has a small play area for children with a sandpit and climbing frame. This will help younger children let off steam. Upstairs, older children will be wowed by XD Theater with its action-packed 3D films. Close by, you’ll also find the Haunted House, also on the upper floor. This is definitely for the older children but is every bit as scary for adults. It’s as close as humanly possible to stepping into a horror movie and becoming part of it. Be warned! Central Festival also has its own Cineplex, which shows films in English and there’s usually one or two for children. The malls at Big C in Chaweng and Tesco Lotus in Chaweng and also Lamai (all three are on the ring-road) have large indoor play areas for younger children, simply called Skippy Wonderland. Little children love to come here, and make instant friends with the others who are jumping and leaping around on brightly coloured climbing frames. The staff all seem to actively enjoy working with children and there’s a very happy atmosphere here.
Little Monkey Club (on the ring-road in Bophut) offers a similar kind of play area with chill-out area for adults too, making this another great place to let your children play. You can also eat lunch here. Meanwhile there are day care centres such as Little Coconuts, which cater for younger children. Little Coconuts is on the Chaweng Lake road as it cuts across just south of Tesco-Lotus to Chaweng Beach. It’s about half way along and conveniently just over the road from Kaset Art Studio, which runs art classes for both children and adults. The Great Outdoors Samui offers some notable trips. Children of all ages (but probably not toddlers) are wowed by a day out at the Angthong Marine Park. All travel agents offer tours out to the postcard perfect white sand beaches of these rocky islets just to the west of Samui. Most trips include lunch, snorkelling and a visit to the unexpected lake, set in a crater on one of the larger islands. Blue Stars offers kayaking as well. Definitely a day out that is, yes, fun for all the family. Equally enjoyable are trips to nearby
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Koh Pha-Ngan and Koh Tao. For Koh Tao, it’s best to go by speedboat, as the journey is too long by slow-boat. There will be opportunities for snorkelling and on Koh Tao you’ll experience the unexpectedly rich marine life at the tiny islet of Koh Nang Yuan, which is always included on the tour. Samui has two water parks, but you’ll need to keep an eye out on your children if they go there. Do not think that you can abdicate responsibility in any way while you are there. Accidents can happen in the blink of an eye. Paradise Park Farm offers swimming facilities, plenty of areas to explore and a beautiful approach road that takes you some way into Samui’s heartland. Waterfalls are where Samui’s children go to have fun and frolic, rather than the beaches. Why? Because there’s always shade at hand and snacks and drinks. Hin Lad Waterfall, just two kilometres to the south of Nathon is very popular and there’s a temple to visit at the same spot. The more adventurous can hike into the hills along a well-marked if stony trail and take in the series of waterfalls and plunge-pools on the way up to a last swimming spot high in the hills. Temples. It may seem like an odd idea to take your child to a temple as a fun
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B a r g e & Te r r a c e
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thing to do, but a lot of children simply love them. The atmosphere is for a start very light and the temples have both large indoor and outdoor spaces. Big Buddha is a favourite, and children will enjoy the strange statues by the water’s edge and dare we say it, an icecream from one of the vendors, while at nearby Wat Plai Laem, they may enjoy feeding the fish in the temples’ small lake. It can become an obsessive pursuit for children watching the very ugly catfish snapping away at food pellets. The interior of the temple is so filled with bright pictures that most children will be mesmerized – at least for a while. Samui may not have as many amenities as a big city does, but there’s enough to amuse children for a holiday, just so long as you put some thought into the days. But there are also some further plus points that not so many places share; one of the greatest things about Samui are the Thai people. They’re very welcoming to children – even difficult ones and you can take your children with you just about anywhere. This makes it far, far easier to enjoy a holiday here, knowing that your children will be happily accepted wherever you go. With a friendly atmosphere throughout the island and places to go and things to do, Samui turns out to be a wonderful destination not just for adults but also for children, too.
Dimitri Waring
Nora Buri's Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com
A DANCE
IN TIME
Classical Thai dancing has been charming its audiences for over 500 years.
Across the nation, from its furthest borders to its heart in Bangkok, modernity seems to be everywhere, with the latest gadgets and trends spreading as fast as a forest fire. But despite all this, ancient Siamese culture lives on, and its traditions are alive and well. One of the nation’s best-known, and oldest of arts, Thai dancing, is still highly popular. Even if you don’t see a performance, you may well be familiar with its most famous symbol – the Khon mask. Though familiar to many, it’s still very mysterious. Brightly coloured, and elaborate down to the last detail, it has significance for every Thai person; it’s a direct link to their heritage and the myths that sprung into being even before the nation was formed. Khon masks come in various forms, and are used in classical Thai dance along with equally elaborate clothing and ornamentation to denote the mythical characters on stage. There are demons, monkeys, royal 84 l www.samuiholiday.com
figures, soldiers and a whole cast of epic characters. Even if you’re fluent in Thai, it’d be hard to know what was going on without the masks. Paradoxically, though they hide the dancer, they nail down the character; these are not masks to disguise, but to identify. They’re as much part of the dance as the dancing itself. The combination of clothing, mask and ornamentation acts as a sort of artistic barcode that safely lets the audience know who’s on stage. Thai dance provides an intricate mix of poetry, epic drama, complicated music, along with highly ritualized choreography, to produce a unified art form that’s hard to find anywhere else outside Thailand and its neighbouring regions. The dance tends portrays the Ramakhien, which has as its origins the Ramayana epic from India, but which reflects the themes and topics at the heart of ancient Siamese culture.
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The masks are still worn today; new ones are constantly being made and the dance, quite literally, goes on. The age-old themes still mesmerize, and children still love to learn the enigmatic, ancient choreography. Go to the children’s dance school at the side of Big C supermarket and you’ll find tiny children intensely copying dance routines that are hundreds of years old. Look at the far wall, and you’ll see, up on high and in pride of place, a Khon mask, brightly downlit. Classical Thai dance wasn’t always so accessible; until the 20th century, it was only permitted to be performed in the Royal Court, but it’s become open to everyone now and performances can be given freely. It’s not to be confused with folk dancing, which calls for fewer elaborate costumes and is a lot more informal in every www.samuiholiday.com l 85
way possible. A few folk dances, however, are a mix of both classical and folk, and sit on the choreographical fence. But for the most part, it’s easy to recognize what you’re watching. When you are on holiday you’ll find some hotels put on Thai dance demonstrations featuring Classical Thai dance with dancers wearing headdresses and glittering jewellery. It may give you the impetus to go to the mainland or to a big city to see a larger show. Classical Thai dance goes back to the 15th century, when various kingdoms ruled a region that included not just today’s Thailand, but also Cambodia and Laos as well. Back then there were relatively few people who could read or write, so dance also served an educational purpose, as a way to pass down folk stories and religious epics through the generations. No theatre comparable to today’s existed, and dance stepped in to become the favourite form of drama. There was folk dancing for the majority of the people, while classical dance was for the elite, beyond the grasp of most people. The clothing alone was prohibitively expensive and classical dancers were few and far between; they were as rare and coveted as today’s movie stars. There are three major forms of classical Thai dance, along with a southern dance. The brief guide that follows will hopefully inspire you to seek out a performance. All are very watchable and mesmerizing in their gracefulness. Kohn These days, when you attend a show you’re likely to be surprised 86 l www.samuiholiday.com
by the sheer numbers of people involved if you’re watching a Kohn performance. Historically, it always required a large cast. This is the apex of classical dancing; along with the numerous dancers themselves, the production relies on narrators, mask-makers, embroiderers, makeup artists and other support services. If you’re watching a very traditional performance you’ll find that only male dancers wear masks. While they dance, a chorus just off-stage narrates the drama while the mythical cast of demons, monkeys, nymphs and gods mixes with humans, an integral part of the story. Lakhon In Lakhon the dancers wear no masks, and they’re most often female. It’s more of a group dance than one where the performers are acting out the dramas of various individuals. The stories are again very often drawn from the Ramakhien, though may also feature traditional folk tales that are re-enacted to the delight of the onlookers. Fawn Thai This mix of classical and folk dancing is very often seen performed as it requires a minimal number of dancers and is relatively easy to choreograph. It remains, however, very regal in its feel. One of the best-loved of the fawn dances is simply called, ‘Fawn Leb’ or fingernail dance, named for the incredible long gold fingernail extensions worn. Though simpler, fawn dances still involve fairly elaborate clothing and are a heritage of the former royal courts of Siam. You’ll also come across the butterfly, candle and scarf dances – all part of the tradition of fawn dancing.
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Manohora A southern Thai dance, also seen in the north of Malaysia, is also included in the canon of classical Thai dance. This is Manohra, a dance that re-enacts the love story between a prince and Kinnari Manohra, a mythic creature that’s half-woman and half-bird. After they marry, evil courtiers hatch a scheme that ends with the death of Manohra, leaving the prince devastated. A huge amount of effort has been made to keep the classical dancing authentic and alive; it presents the Thai sense of identity, and though the figures portrayed have so much to do with an era that’s long gone, the dramas they represent still engage the psyche on a deep level. Year round, the dances still take place in every part of the country, watched by eager and appreciative audiences. If you can take the chance to see a traditional Thai dance; you’ll literally be stepping back hundreds of years and witnessing the bright and colourful entertainment of the Royal Courts.
Dimitri Waring
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A NEW DEFINITION OF A FULL SERVICE PHARMACY Morya Pharmacy carries all the usual medications – but that’s only one of its many functions.
Pharmacies are just about as old as the hills. Well, certainly their products are. The first pharmaceutical products were plants that were prized for their medicinal benefits. They were literally tugged out of the ground, pulled off trees or picked from the stems of plants. The knowledge of medicinal plants was known to the Ancient Egyptians, and grew amongst the Ancient Greeks and Romans, the Chinese and through the Islamic world. The first pharmacies (some are still open today at their original sites) date back almost 1,500 years. Whether the medicine worked or not, pharmacies of yore weren’t particularly attractive places; they were filled with plants, roots and leaves, strange liquids and potions, and everywhere there were the smells of all the botanical products. Fast forward to today’s pharmacies and you’ll see that they’re no longer dusty shops filled with withered and dried plants. They’re bright and modern, and they sell an incredible amount of medicine from all over the world. Even when you venture far afield, you’re likely to come across pharmacies that are very much standardized and keep to international norms that are strictly enforced. This means that you can trust the medicine to be well in date, to be stored correctly and 90 l www.samuiholiday.com
most important, that it will have been dispensed by a pharmacist – a qualified person, in other words, who’s been to university and is trained. On Samui you’ll see many pharmacies, a surprising number for a small island, and they’re mostly reputable places. There’s also a chain of pharmacies, simply called Morya, that operates just here and nowhere else. Trusted by islanders, foreign residents and holidaymakers alike, Morya has many branches and unless you’re in a wild, out-of-reach place, there’ll be one near you. Morya is often the first port of call when you’re feeling sick. And on a holiday there can be various reasons for that. Perhaps you ate something suspect, had too much sun or suffered some other tropical malady, from an itchy rash all the way through to a seemingly inexplicable fever. Step into any of Morya’s pharmacies and you’ll soon be talking to a qualified pharmacist. He or she will be able to communicate in English and understand just what your problem is. Staff can use computer interpretation services for other languages. Each pharmacy has a full range of medications in stock – approximately 4,000 of them. Better still, you’ll usually have a choice between brand-
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name and generic medicines, meaning there’s often a range of prices. Due to national regulations, pharmacists in Thailand are allowed to sell a greater variety of products without a prescription than their counterparts can in the west. It’s easier to buy medicine in Thailand as there’s often no need to see a doctor first. In many cases the pharmacist can make a diagnosis and know what medicine is appropriate. In addition customers can come to get repeat prescriptions. But Morya won’t sell you anything for which, under Thai law, you need a doctor’s prescription first; they adhere to the rules. Should you need to see a doctor, they’ll be able to supply information about where to go. There are 19 Morya pharmacies at the moment on Samui, including three new branches that have recently opened. You’ll find the first of these new branches just in front of Tesco-Lotus in Chaweng (there’s one inside the supermarket, too). The second is in Chaweng Noi near Vana Belle and the third is in Lamai, at the local market.
Morya also has medical equipment and whether you’re looking for a thermometer, a pair of crutches or even a wheelchair to rent, you can find them all in stock. They also stock traditional and herbal medicines, with some coming from Thailand and others from China and Korea. There are many products that you won’t find outside South-East Asia, and some you’ll probably never have heard of. You may be surprised at how effective they are. You’ll also find a full range of vitamins and supplements, as well as a range of food supplements. Many people drop into Morya knowing it’s here that they’ll find a plethora of fragrances and perfumes as well as beauty and skin care products. It takes quite a while to browse just what’s on offer. Or maybe you would like to pick up a gift or a souvenir. Choose between a variety of natural spa and product sets, for example, coconut, lemongrass, jasmine, and so on. There are also many kinds of massage oils of premium quality. If you’re particularly interested in organic and spa products and health and nutrition supplements, you should head for Morya’s Greenhealth 92 l www.samuiholiday.com
stores, which focus on these ranges. Currently there are five of these, with the latest having opened on the Chaweng Beach Road, next to McDonald’s. Morya has a full range of sun-care and after-sun products with a full spectrum of sun factors, as well as protection for children. If your skin’s feeling stressed through too much sun, they can help with that, too. Naturally, Morya has mosquito repellents in stock, along with creams and sprays. And if your skin is prone to itching, either because of the sun, an allergy or insect bites, they have many solutions on hand that’ll bring comfort. Morya isn’t just for adults, of course. Babies and children may also require help. Whether it’s some diapers, baby food, lotions or children’s shampoo, Morya is certain to have it. Finally, last but not least, Morya also sells a limited range of dried fruits and snacks. If you’re from the west you may not be so used to these, but they’re certainly worth trying, and they also make good souvenirs, too.
KAYAKING Explore the caves and beaches of the Angthong National Marine Park Offices located behind Bondi Pub in central Chaweng and on Chaweng Lake Road opposite Lake View For reservations please call 0 7730 0615 or 0 878 866 097
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Hopefully, you won’t get sick during your holiday on Samui – the vast majority of visitors don’t. But if you do, then just walk into any of the Morya branches and you’ll find friendly and efficient staff who will be able to provide help. But there are many other reasons to come and see what Morya offers. With their bright, clean up to date stores, it’s a pleasure just to drop in and browse the aisles and just see what’s on offer. You’ll be surprised by the sheer amount and variety of their products. And perhaps best of all, both Morya and Greenhealth cater for you when you’re in perfect health.
Dimitri Waring
_______________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7741 3298 or 0 7731 0646.
PARANOID IN PARADISE Samui’s wildlife – is it out to get you?
Some visitors to Samui approach the island with the same trepidation as early Victorian’s exploring blank parts of the map, ready for hostile encounter with unknown predators. It’s a pith helmet and blunderbuss approach, accompanied by enough bags of medicine to stock a small pharmacy. But what’s the truth? Is Samui dangerous? Is the night really filled with giant bugs? Can we hear slithering noises just outside our hotel room? And are fangs, claws and mandibles hurrying our way, eager to ruin our holiday? Samui turns out to be reassuringly low-key when it comes to alarming wildlife. The most commonly seen animals turn out to be cats and dogs. You’ll find plenty of them, and generally they’re cheerful and friendly. Some are wild, some not. A bit of caution is necessary; island hospitals see a fair number of dog bites, so it pays to be careful and not pat Rover on the head until you really know him. Most resorts seem these days to have a placid resident cat who you may find sitting on your porch – hardly feral. To see any wildlife you’ll really need to go deep into the jungle, and adrenaline junkies may end up a bit disappointed. There are a few colourful birds, though not many, and certainly no parrots or macaws to be seen. As for large animals, the only one you’re really likely to come across is a tethered buffalo. You may possibly come across a snake,
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but unless they’re suddenly disturbed, snakes tend to take the defensive: once they hear the trample of feet coming their way, they’re off. The most commonly reported snake is bright green and about a metre long. It’s not poisonous and tends to live in the tops of coconut trees. Should you see a snake that you think is poisonous, then tell someone as soon as you can. Within minutes you’ll find people coming to look for it and take it away. The Thais are certainly very efficient at getting rid of slithery intruders. Because of the care taken, relatively few people are bitten by snakes here. It’s unlikely that you’ll even see a single live snake in your time here. Very occasionally you might see scorpions or centipedes, both of which need to be avoided. Check any shoes before you put them on (though you’re more likely to find a frog nesting in them) but apart from this, there are no other precautions you’ll need to take. Be careful of the much less-seen red centipede with thick legs. It looks dangerous and certainly is. The sting is amazingly painful, and you’ll need to go to hospital. Luckily, you’re fairly unlikely to come across these critters. Meanwhile the often-seen black centipedes that seem to be constantly in motion are completely safe. They’ll curl up into a spiral if touched and play dead.
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Many of us fear large spiders. The dinner plate size ones, seen in South America, just don’t exist here, and most are very small and innocuous. Very occasionally, you’ll see a larger spider, but not often. And since hotel rooms are generally very thoroughly cleaned, and every day, it’s rare to come across spiders and their webs in resorts. What you will see and often are geckos. They seem to be everywhere, especially the smaller ones that the Thais call ‘chingchok’. They’re always on the hunt for mosquitoes, and Thais believe it’s lucky to have them in the house, though it would be hard to find any dwelling without at least a few. They’re not aggressive and will shy away from you, as will the larger ‘tookai’, which you may sometimes see on the wall of a building. They’ll also keep out of your way, but their intermittent loud call can be a real nuisance. Don’t attempt to catch one as the tookai can bite; ask someone to deal with it. Exotic wildlife is occasionally cruelly commercialized and if you’re in Chaweng, you may see people with large lizards, birds and other animals on their shoulders. A great photo opportunity? No, it isn’t; this is a business which is built on the misery of these animals and should be avoided. So much for the land, but what about the sea? How safe is it? Firstly, many visitors are justifiably afraid of jellyfish and their stings. There are more jellyfish than there used to be, and on some beaches there are now vinegar stations, but it’s a simple matter to bring your own. Again, you’re unlikely to be stung but it can happen. Beware particularly of the extremely dangerous box jellyfish – it can be lethal. If you do get stung,
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get hold of some vinegar quickly and go immediately to the nearest hospital. Always ask at your hotel what the current conditions for jellyfish are. Don’t whatever you do, swim at night or go far out. Samui isn’t plentiful in aquatic wildlife, and you’ll see relatively few fish of any variety unless you’re snorkelling from a boat out in the deeps. If you’d like to see just how rich Thailand’s waters can be when it comes to tropical fish, then head for Koh Tao, where there are some truly amazing sights to be seen. Samui is quite a safe place for holidays and it’s unlikely that you’ll have a bad encounter with an animal of any kind. If you do, then help is at hand. Prevention is always better than the cure, so aim to be cautious and keep on the safe side of the wildlife here. And remember that just because you’re on the lookout for what’s big and scary, you may end up neglecting one of the most obvious dangers of being in the tropics – the tiny, annoying and sickness-bearing mosquito. Use plenty of mosquito repellent and beware of daytime bites from mosquitoes that can result in dengue fever. The best way to deal with wildlife fears is always to ask people who are likely to know what’s realistic and what’s paranoid. It pays to use some caution. But really, there’s very little to detract you from the pleasure of enjoying your time on a beautiful tropical island rich in flora and beautiful sights.
Dimitri Waring
TRIUMPHANT TRIO New Nordic hits the ground running with three simultaneous developments.
New landmarks are shortly to appear in the very heart of Lamai, as New Nordic begins a multi-phased, multi-purpose series of linked developments consisting of resort accommodation, condominiums, entertainment and restaurants. Lamai, long-considered Chaweng’s little sister, is ideal for the group. It has just about everything: the sea, an amazing backdrop of mountains and a plethora of eating and drinking opportunities. This means that visitors and residents will be able to enjoy staying and living here, with everything that they need right at hand, usually just minutes away. New Nordic Group is well-known, and has over 40 finished projects just in Thailand. At the time of writing, they have 12 more projects under construction, and more will be launched soon in Thailand, Cambodia,
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Vietnam and Bali. They have their headquarters in Hong Kong, but also have offices in Norway, Bangkok, Samui, Pattaya, Cambodia, Bali and The Philippines. New Nordic started about 10 years ago, and ended up constructing some fifty buildings in Pattaya. They realized that what people wanted was a sense of community, and to that end they also decided to include restaurants, bars, shops and various services in the projects. New Nordic was, and is, enormously successful, and part of their recipe is to always make sure projects are finished on time, and to keep his customers well-informed of every step along the way. New Nordic’s three main developments in Lamai are proving very popular with buyers. We’ll look at each in turn. Firstly, New Nordic Koh Samui
Lamai Hotel and Resort has hit the ground running; it’s already 90% sold. It’s centrally located, but as it’s actually set in a side street it will offer plenty of privacy, too. The resort will have two reception areas, private parking, a swimming pool, restaurants and shops, along with extremely comfortable lodging. As you can imagine, it’ll be extremely popular with holidaymakers.
Close by, you’ll also find New Nordic Water World, a complex of swimming pools and slides, not to mention eating and drinking facilities. However, it’s more than just an aquatically-themed place of leisure; it also offers condominium living. There will be a variety of units, which will be of interest to both investors and to people wishing to live in a prestige
development. Waterworld will be a place for all the family to come and relax and enjoy good times together. Currently some 25% of the units have been snapped up, and interest in the development is strong. New Nordic will launch their third project soon, which is to be ... a castle. This might seem controversial to some, but it’s no earnest medieval fortress, rather a place of pleasure. New Nordic already has two in Pattaya which have been very successful; the castle in Lamai will be built using more or less the same principles. There’ll be many luxury suites and wonderful opportunities for dining, and this will be something quite out of the ordinary. You’ll also find here Club High Society, which is a paid membership club, a theme restaurant, lounges, wine cellars and www.samuiholiday.com l 103
mysterious dark caves that promise still more fun. These are just a few examples. And, naturally, there will be prime accommodation too, which is fast selling out. Incidentally, New Nordic has also bought a beachside bar and restaurant and other facilities, all close by. The three developments are adjacent to each other, allowing investors in any one project to enjoy the amenities of the others. This also ties in with New Nordic ideas: they believe it’s futile to buy cheap land that’s right out of town. They take the opposite tack: find the best terrain, in a good location, even if it costs a lot more. It’ll be worth it as the condominiums and facilities will be in demand all the time. This in turn leads to good revenues all round. By grouping the projects together in a brilliant location, they have ensured that the Lamai developments will enjoy popularity for years to come.
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But there’s a lot more than just location that makes these projects attractive to buyers; there are the guarantees that go with them. Jan Nuijten, the Samui General Manager says, “In Samui we’ll be selling leasehold. We give a 30-30-30 year lease contract but we can only register by law 30 years at a time. We pay for the registration. After 15 years of 10% return, we can discuss a new term of return, or we will renovate the unit for you and you can do with it as you like.” New Nordic, as part of their philosophy, makes the buying of properties very simple. You can secure your unit with an initial small down payment. After that you pay in instalments, with everything being clear from the outset. All agents, incidentally, operate with the same sets of figures, meaning that you don’t need to shop around in order to see whose deal is the best one.
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Interest is always strong when there’s a long-established and trusted developer who’s at the helm, such as New Nordic, so it comes as little surprise that their properties are already selling well in Lamai, even though they haven’t been completed. Very soon now, Lamai will have the first of the New Nordic residential buildings completed, and it’s expected that these developments will be every bit as successful as the ones they have already built in Pattaya and elsewhere.
Dimitri Waring
______________________________________________________ For further information, telephone Jan Nuitjen on 0 801 759 567. Email: jan@new-nordic.com www.newnordicgroup.com
Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort 99/9 Moo 1, Bophut Bay, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84320 Thailand T +66 (0) 77 428 300-9 F +66 (0) 77 428 310 E bophutsamui@anantara.com
BUDDHISM IN THAILAND How Thais deal with adversity and aim to find happiness.
As we travel around Thailand, we can’t help but see references to Buddhism everywhere; temples, shrines, stupas and then the thousands of Buddha images themselves. Not surprisingly, many of us automatically first think of Thailand when asked to name a Buddhist country. Yet, no matter how long we spend here – or even live here – we may be none the wiser as to what Buddhism is really about. To understand it all requires us to study it in some form or other; we cannot hope to comprehend it simply by living in the proximity of a temple or by being immersed in Buddhist culture. Many people come to Thailand to stay in temples in order to get to grips with Buddhism; they learn to meditate and are taught the precepts for a way of life that’s so different to that in the West. It’s a lofty goal as Buddhism aims to put an end to ‘Dukkha’ or, as it’s often loosely translated, suffering. People may shrug at this limited, old-fashioned word. But Dukkha means a lot more. In fact it covers the entire spectrum of pain and unhappiness. Dukkha is variously anxiety, distress, frustration, unease, dissatisfaction, worry, sadness, and so on.
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Many translators now use the term ‘unsatisfactoriness’ as a translation. Buddhists divide Dukkha into three extremely broad categories: the sufferings of life, such as birth, aging, sickness and death; the frustration of not getting what we want, due to the changing nature of all things, and finally that basic unsatisfactoriness pervading all forms of life, that sense that things never measure up to how we would like them to be. The aim of Buddhism is to release us from all of that, and the fact that millions of Thais practise Buddhism on a daily basis tells us that this is the nation’s way of dealing with adversity and achieving happiness. For Thai Buddhists, true happiness lies within, not outside. Materialism doesn’t bring happiness; the amassing of wealth and the enjoyment of material assets cannot bring us satisfaction. That said, it’s not wrong to be rich and be surrounded with ‘the good things of life’ and to enjoy them, but if materialism is our goal, then we should know that all the treasures we collect are going to prove a hollow experience. In any case, we must remember that everything comes to an end – this is the famed law of impermanence. And however much we may rail against
that, a walk in the forest shows us that that is just how life is: every bit of the forest is alive, from the tiniest leaf to the largest animal, yet all of it, and all the beings that live there, all the plants and leaves and trees will one day die. To Western ears that may sound a gloomy, miserable viewpoint, but this is one of the main points of Buddhism and as a religion it takes on board impermanence and suffering and makes of them something else entirely. Buddhism is embedded in Thai culture to such an extent that the main rite of passage for men is to become monks at some stage during their lives. Usually this is when they’re quite young, and they will enter the monkhood for a short time. Some stay on. Traditionally, ordination in the Sangha (the monkhood) can be done at short notice, but is not considered a lifetime commitment. This is still largely practised in the countryside areas, less so in the bigger cities. The Bhikkhuni, or female order of monks, is a subject of much discussion; there are many female monks, but far fewer than males, due to current customs and regulations. Many Thais see this as a glaring inequality.
The traditions of Buddhism as practiced in Thailand go back to early recorded history. King Ramkhamhaeng the Great left an inscription in 1292 mentioning a monk who had studied the Pali Buddhist Canon from beginning to end and who lived at a forest temple. This monk, noted the King, was the supreme patriarch of the monkhood. Gautama Buddha ordered that monks should maintain contact with their local community. You’ll see Thai monks participating in various ceremonies, from blessing a new business to conducting a funeral. And every morning, bare foot monks make their rounds collecting food for the temple. Temples are sacred ground, and it’s considered deeply unethical to mistreat the temple property or monks in any way at all. This is taken very seriously, though it may come as a bit of a surprise for many visitors who, along with thousands of Thais, will go to a temple fair to enjoy good times and have some fun. Or even a lot of fun.
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The temple used to be the centre of community life at one time, and even if these days, that’s not so true, it’s still a place to gather for the local people living in the area. On Samui you’ll see a temple fair somewhere, every month. It’s a time to socialize, eat together, listen to singing, play games and do a little shopping at the stalls that are present at every fair. Buddhism certainly has its playful side. Buddhism in Thailand is in some ways tied in with secular politics, with some monks vociferously taking part in the political life of the country. And there are even controversial monks, as any brief perusal of the Thai media will show. And in today’s world of instant communication, monks who’ve been caught doing wrong, are instantly identified and then appear on social media, there to be exposed for all their wrongdoings. Generally, monks are seen as a class apart, and are deeply respected by most Thais. People are afraid to do anything that might be considered wrong to a monk as they fear bad karma coming to them. In return, monks are expected to conduct themselves in exemplary fashion. They’re trusted to do so by the civic authorities. The monkhood is governed by its own sets of laws, administered by the Sangha Council of Thailand, a strict body that deals with any criminal cases in its own fashion, usually without the intervention of the police. Thai Buddhism, however, is not simply total devotion to the Buddhist scriptures as seen in the Pali canon. Many people also have practices that have woven themselves into the cultural landscape of Buddhism here. It’s possible to see many examples of this; magical practices, animistic belief, and Hindu influences are all to be found in Thai Buddhist culture. This explains the widespread presence of spirit houses, for example, protective amulets and the trees that are adorned with coloured cloths because of the spirits who live there.
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The main beliefs, however, are quite clear and were formulated by the Gautama Buddha. He summarized his doctrine into the Four Noble Truths, which are: 1. Dukkha is a universal part of life. 2. The cause of this Dukkha is desire or craving. (Desire doesn’t mean enjoying a pleasurable or happy experience. The acceptance of such an experience is not a problem; instead the danger arises from craving or attachment to it. 3. A way forward exists to put an end to all this suffering and we are able to realize it. 4. This end to suffering comes about if we follow the Noble Eightfold Path. The Eightfold Path consists of 1. Right Understanding: developing the mind and learning so as to understand problems of suffering and how to resolve them. 2. Right Thought: to have thoughts that are free from lust, bad intent and cruelty. 3. Right Speech: to abstain from angry language, telling lies and any kind of vain talk. 4. Right Action: to abstain from killing, stealing, intoxicating drink and sexual misconduct. (For monks complete celibacy is expected; laymen are advised to abstain from adultery or other inappropriate sexual behaviour.)
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If you are looking for something wonderful and different, Zazen restaurant is the place for you to discover. Zazen is truly one of the most romantic and serene beachside dining restaurants on the island. Every night this charming establishment lights up over 100 candles to set the ambiance for you to experience.
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5. Right Livelihood: the avoidance of any occupation or business which leads to harm or detriment of ourselves or others. 6. Right Effort: training oneself to exert one’s will and selfdiscipline to develop beneficial mental states of mind and overcome negative, unwholesome states. 7. Right Mindfulness: includes different meditation practices and psychological techniques, according to what the individual needs. 8. Right Concentration: training the mind to remain focused on a single object and not wandering from thought to thought. As we travel round Thailand, whether we’re in a village or in downtown Bangkok, we are surrounded by people who are deeply influenced by Buddhist belief. Some of us may wonder if Buddhism might not be the way forward; many in the west start practicing it, never to stop. If we’re in Thailand it’s quite easy to find a monastery or temple where we can learn more, and the same goes for Samui (check out Dipabhavan, for example, if interested). To be in Thailand is to experience a culture that owes much to Buddhism. When we first start seeing monks in orange robes, temples with their gold leaf and the spires of stupas, we may find it all deeply exotic; we may think of ourselves as being on a strange journey in a strange land. But this is only on the surface. Buddhism is always down to earth and it addresses all the deep, universal questions that we go through life asking ourselves.
Natalie Hughes
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