July / Aug 2017

Onwards And Upwards Get vertical with Rock & Ropes Koh Samui.

Island Insight An overall guide to Samui’s towns, villages, beaches and hotspots.

A Warm Welcome

Editor

Graeme Malley graeme@siammap.com

Graphic Designer Preeda Tuajob - Pui

Photographer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon - Don

Feature Writer Rob De Wet

Feature Writer Dimitri Waring

Feature Writer Karan Ladd

Webmaster

Seksak Kerdkanno - Klauy

Sales & Marketing Director Nipawan Chuaysagul - Ning 0 898 783 891

ning@siammap.com

Financial Director

Kasper Bjørk kasper@siammap.com

Managing Director Henrik Bjørk henrik@siammap.com

Siam Map Company Ltd. A very warm one – because, of course, it’s summer time. Well, that’s the way most folks reading this have been thinking . . . unless you’re straight off the plane from Australia, that is! In theory this isn’t supposed to be the hottest time of the year. But Thailand is a long, thin country. And the further south you go, the warmer it gets. Meaning that right now the weather is probably hovering around 30º, but with some refreshing showers, mainly after dark.

The warm turquoise waters. White sandy beaches. Palm trees swaying in the breeze. Delightful evenings dining out under the stars. And in the daytime there are one hundred and one things to do.

Sure, there are all the usual suspects: trips up the mountain and jungle safaris and mummified monks.

But have you ever considered actually going pro-active?

We’re in the era of healthy living. There are a great many gyms now on the island – if your resort doesn’t have one then there’ll be one not far away. And what about trying some basic Muay Thai classes? It’s only a few hundred baht for an hour and there are even sessions for the kids.

52/6 Samui Ring Road, Moo 3 Bo Phut, Koh Samui, 84320, Thailand Tel: 0 7742 2201 Fax: 0 7741 3523 E-mail: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com

All Rights Reserved

Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permision from Siam Map Company Ltd. While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.

Siam Map Company Ltd. 2017

Or if your idea of a holiday break is to do the minimum of everything and you’re headed daily for the pool with a book, there’s always shopping! Central Festival Mall should be your first stop. But you just have to explore one of the Walking Streets, too – it’s rude not to!

Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways.

Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com

Please recycle or pass on to a friend.

Maenam Bophut Nathon

Chaweng

Samui

Lamai

www.BoujisSamui.com

1 & 2 Bedroom Villas starting from 2,490THB

Escape to Boujis Boutique Resort, an intimate cliffside retreat of 14 luxury villas with unparalleled ocean views of Chaweng.

Located Cliffside between Chaweng & Lamai - call 077 448 544

Mediterranean Cuisine Amidst a panoramic dreamscape that overlooks the pristine Crystal Bay, The Cliff warmly invites you to a truly unforgettable dining experience on Koh Samui.

Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2014, 2015 & 2016 2014

2015

2016

HAPA 2011 - 2013 Most Exquisite Dining Experience Most Trendy Casual Dining

Top Choice Award 2016-2017

2005

2006

Restaurant Of The Year

2007

2009

2011

2013

2014

2015

2017

"Thailand's Best Restaurants" 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015 & 2017

Reservations Essential For reservations please call 077 448 508 Bar daily 12pm - 2am

www.thecliffsamui.com

Kitchen opens 12pm - 10pm.

Choeng Mon

CONTENTS 42

16 Onwards And Upwards

Get vertical with Rock & Ropes Koh Samui.

82

54 Island Gems

30 Fins Of Fury A look at the place of the Siamese fighting fish in popular Thai culture.

browse to your heart’s content.

60 Engaging And Amazing.

66

Fine dining at The Library, a minimalist resort in the heart of Chaweng.

48

70

Bijou Boujis

76 Finding Treasure Natural Wing Health Spa and Resort takes a new direction.

82

Hidden Gem, Concealed Treats!

Once again we point you at a treasure that’s almost in plain view – Waterline restaurant, right in the middle of Lamai.

Cliff Tip Top There are lots of good restaurants on Samui, but only a few that are excellent. We explore a local legend – The Cliff.

100

Extolling The Good Life Impiana Resort Chaweng Noi is just the kind of place you return to, again and again.

106

The Cutting Edge Everyone buys souvenirs and gifts on holiday – but getting to know Paul’s Fashion will give you a very serious alternative!

We take a look at one of the most delightful resorts around – Boujis Boutique Resort in Chaweng Noi.

Meet the Team, Live the Dream Experience Loft by Oriental Living

94

It can be a nightmare trying to work out the best way to access your holiday cash in Thailand – here’s some info and tips on how to do it.

42 Going Global Urban clothing is always in vogue. Psylo’s two stores in Chaweng showcase fashion that has world-wide appeal.

Money Money Money

Stone Snakes And Clay Characters The dramatic world of Wat Sila Ngu.

W Koh Samui wows with its superlative food, drink and chilling.

36 Turning A New Page

88

Nature Art Gallery is filled with semi-precious stones, jewels and ornaments – come and

24 Zooming Down To Zico’s Super food and entertainment too? Some of the best of both can be found down at Zico’s on Chaweng Beach Road.

100

112

Elite Volunteers In an emergency, Samui Rescue are on the scene within minutes.

T H E

H O M E

O F

I N S P I R E D

I N T E R I O R S

Phuket 424 Srisoonthorn Rd. Cherngtalay Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 76 325 419

Samui 9/18 Moo1 Maenam Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 77 247 675

info@oriental-living.net

www.oriental-living.net

Island Insight An overall guide to Samui’s towns, villages, beaches and hotspots.

Samui is an idyllic tropical paradise. A blend of traditional Thai hospitality and remote island life has joined hands with modern traveller expectations. But the towns, villages and interior are home to much more than just luxury resorts, restaurants, bars and retail shops. And whilst the main beaches are recognised as some of the best in the world, there are also secluded coves and magical hideaways around many corners – if you know where to look. And this quick guide will point you in the right direction.

Chaweng

Chaweng’s main beach is five kilometres in length and is lined with 5-star luxury resorts, boutique hotels, budget accommodation and great oceanfront restaurants.

Behind the resorts, the Chaweng Beach Road is filled with restaurants, bars, spas, shops, street stalls and mobile food vendors. The lake sits to the rear of them and is a wonderful place for an early morning walk or jog. Near the southern end of the lake is the Soi Reggae entertainment area which also has two Muay Thai boxing stadiums, a temple guarded by carved monkeys and the huge Laem Din market complex. All manner of fresh produce is delivered here every day and the adjoining Dow Seafood market is a hive of activity from the early hours.

Lamai

Samui’s second most popular beach is around four kilometres long and the waters are perfect for swimming. There’s plenty of choice in accommodation, restaurants, bars, spas and health resorts. It also has a free Muay Thai event every Saturday and just off the Beach Road there’s a children’s water park. Wat Lamai is home to a cultural centre and museum that houses artifacts of Samui life before the advent of tourism. On Sundays there’s a ‘Walking Street’ along part of the Beach Road.

And just outside of Lamai town on the ring-road is the famous Hin Ta-Hin Yai rock formations that has dozens of small local Thai restaurants around it.

10 l www.samuiholiday.com

Mae Nam

Nestled on the northern shores of the island, Mae Nam Beach stretches for several kilometres and overlooks the neighbouring island of Koh Pha-Ngan. High-end resorts and beach bungalows are dotted along the coast and many visitors love it for its peacefulness, soft golden sands and wonderful views. It has seven side streets that meander into the mountains: from Soi 1 you can follow the road over the mountains all the way to Lamai; Soi 4 has a ‘Walking Street’ every Thursday from mid-afternoon and also houses an ornate Chinese temple overlooking the beach and a large Buddhist temple set a few hundred metres back from the ringroad; Soi 5 has a tree-top canopy adventure theme park a few kilometres into the hills; there’s a buffalo fighting stadium a couple of hundred metres off the main road between Soi 5 and Soi 6; an early morning market is also in Soi 6; an evening market near to Soi 7; and the world-class Santiburi Golf Course in the hills above Soi 7. There’re dozens of bars and restaurants in Mae Nam, many of which are on side roads that lead down to the ocean. And at the western end of the beach the Lomprayah ferry takes passengers to the neighbouring islands several times a day.

NathoN

This is the island’s main administrative centre and the major ferry port for boats to and from the mainland. There’re some hotels but it’s more a town you would visit for an afternoon rather than stay in. Beside the terminal, there’s a local food market every day from mid-afternoon until late in the evening. Along what is known as the ‘middle road’ there’re old teak shop-houses and small businesses and a ‘Walking Street’ on Saturdays. And on the one-way road that goes through the town there’re dozens of shops and restaurants. Just off the main road there’s an ornate Chinese temple and garden in Soi 4. And near the far end there’s a renowned open-air duck restaurant – just follow the crowds around lunchtime.

Bo Phut

Bo Phut is best known for Fisherman’s Village. It’s a single narrow street that still has authentic wooden houses that Samui folk have lived in for generations. Parts of it have been modernized but it’s still awash with local foods, international restaurants, bars, shops and market stalls. It becomes one huge ‘Walking Street’ every Friday and you’ll find lots of local delicacies that few other restaurants have. Along with small hotels, there’re several 5-star luxury resorts at the far end and the beach curves around a large bay that also overlooks Koh Pha-Ngan.

And small speedboats leave from the village pier heading for the Full Moon parties that take place there every month.

Big Buddha and Plai Laem

The magnificent golden Big Buddha statue that watches over the island from the north-east corner of Samui is one of the first things you see as you fly into Samui Airport. Built on a tiny island (Koh Farn) with a connecting causeway, it’s the most iconic image of the island. Many Thais pray at the temple so dressing and acting appropriately is expected when you enter the site. There’re some very good Thai restaurants and small stores around the temple. It also affords some beautiful views and along the road from it you’ll see another large Buddha image at Wat Plai Laem. Half-way along the road between the temples is a side road that cuts through to Choeng Mon. Down this road there’s access to some quiet secluded beaches, although some of them are through resorts.

Choeng Mon

Choeng Mon lies just 15 minutes or so from the middle of Chaweng but it seems like worlds away. There’s a small town that the road runs through with a couple of dozen restaurants and bars. The beach is a favourite for many locals as it’s quiet, picturesque and safe for swimming most of the year round. There’s every class of accommodation with some old-style beach bungalows at one end. And they all overlook the tiny deserted island of Koh Farn Noi which you can walk out to if the tide is low.

www.samuiholiday.com l 11

Bang Rak

In between Fisherman’s Village and Big Buddha is where you’ll find Bang Rak. There’s a few very good resorts and some private villas for rent along the beachfront that stretches around for several kilometres and has stunning views.

Bars and restaurants line the main street and there’re two piers. The one nearest to Big Buddha has daily ferries to Koh Pha-Ngan, Koh Tao and on to the mainland port of Chumpon, from which a VIP bus takes passengers to Hua Hin and on to Bangkok. Start to finish, it’s a 12-hour journey with about half of it on the boat.

Just beside the ferry terminal in Bang Rak is one of the busiest fish markets on the island. Local fishermen drop their catches here and the place is bustling with people all day long. At the other end of town there’s a short-cut into Chaweng on a road called Soi Bond Kai (which the locals refer to as the ‘Ghost Road’).

Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi

The south-west part of the island is known as the ‘Virgin Coast’. It’s largely unspoiled with lots of secluded bays, although most of the shoreline tends to be rocky. The west coast overlooks the famous ‘five islands’ and some of the closer islands of the Angthong National Marine Park (which is a perfect getaway for a day’s boat trip excursion). In this part of the island there’re some hotels, private villas for rent, up-market and local restaurants and several temples of note, including two that house a mummified monk. A second car ferry terminal is located in Lipa Noi and, like the one in Nathon, boats to and from Donsak on the mainland arrive and depart every hour from 5:00 am until 6:00 pm (check for details). And inland on the island’s main ring-road there’re several large waterfall sites and a safari park with elephant trekking, animal shows and adventure tours. Further along, next to the Ford and Mazda dealers is a new Butterfly and Insect Kingdom Park.

12 l www.samuiholiday.com

Hua Thanon

This predominately muslim village is home to the descendants of some of the island’s earliest settlers. There’s still a thriving fishing fleet and fish market and a natural coastline that’s survived the ravages of time. Just after the village (coming from Lamai) you can turn off the ring-road to the left and signs will direct you to the nearby Tiger Zoo, Aquarium and Sea-life Show, the Butterfly Farm, the Snake Farm and the local Rum Distillery.

Thong Krut

With its brightly coloured fishing boats and backdrop of small islands to the one side, and coconut plantations to the other, Thong Krut is a picturesque little village.

Located in the southwest corner of the island, this is where you’ll come if you’re after a long-tail boat to take you to the nearby islands of Koh Tan and Koh Matsum.

Lining the shore you’ll find a selection of simple restaurants offering Thai food, and particularly good seafood, as well as tour operators offering trips to the islands.

The Interior

Samui predominately consists of hills, mountains and coconut plantations. And few visitors make the time to appreciate its hidden beauty. One way to do so is to take the turning into Mae Nam Soi 1. A new road has recently been constructed that goes over the mountains all the way to Lamai. The drive is only about 20-25 minutes over 15 kilometres with a couple of stopping off areas that offer fabulous views. Another way to really get the full picture of Samui is from Tar Nim’s Magic Garden at the top of one of the island’s highest peaks. Built during a 25-year period by a local farmer the stone statues in the garden were sculpted by hand and sit over 2,000 feet above the beaches below.

ONWARDS AND UPWARDS Get vertical with Rock & Ropes Koh Samui.

16 l www.samuiholiday.com

www.samuiholiday.com l 17

“It’s the mountain that lifts our feet to the heavens” – so runs an old Japanese Zen proverb, reminding us that instead of perceiving our uphill trekking as an arduous struggle, everything can be seen from a different point of view: the mountain is there to help, not hinder, no matter how difficult it all looks. Mountaineers always know it only seems like they’re competing against enormous geological entities that dwarf them; the truth is that the heights aren’t ever their foe. Once there’s no sense of combat, then the sheer fun, the exhilaration takes over.

This is the attitude of Guy Rotman, a climber who seems as much at home on vertical surfaces as the rest of us are on horizontal ones. He thinks in terms of the perpendicular. It’s influenced his entire life, even down to what he rents as property: while others come to Samui to build houses, the piece of land he rents is hardly walkable; it’s a cliff. How many people have you ever come across who rent a cliff? It seems an insane idea, and Guy himself, a few years back, would have probably agreed. But odd things happen in life and as a young 25 year old, Guy, who was looking for some casual labour, got offered a job doing maintenance and cleaning work on high buildings. Not their interiors, but their exteriors. And not their roofs, but their dizzying walls. You’ll have seen such workers perilously dangling on perches as they clean windows and carry out repairs. Just to watch them probably gives you vertigo. Not him. He set off with gusto, and loved the work.

Guy also found out something quite unexpected: the job was totally safe. With so many checks and security measures in place, he realized that it’d be very difficult to have an accident. But at the same time he realized that even if it was entirely secure, he’d still experience the most amazing adrenalin rush.

Guy found that his job still wasn’t enough. He wanted more. Climbing soon began to dominate his leisure life too. Next step: graduate from buildings to mountain-sides. Which he did, using the same safety principles. Pun intended: he learned the ropes. Literally.

As with many sports, there was a sense of competition too, not with others but with oneself. “In life many of us simply want to go higher,” says Guy. “Climbing is exactly the same, and there are many routes up a mountain, with varying degrees of difficulty. It’s a challenge, climbing. You look at a slope and think it’s impossible, that you can’t do it. But that’s before you start to tackle it.” And he’s definitely a no-limits kind of person. “I see people just packing up as soon as they start to think they’re old. It doesn’t have to be that way. It’s all in the mind. My climbing hero is currently 92 years old.”

Over the years he’s been climbing, Guy’s become increasingly fit. Ask him and he’ll do pull-ups using two fingers on each hand. He’s acquired the skills that our early ancestors had in abundance, the ability to scale tricky surfaces with the ease of a monkey. But you can do the same, too, he’ll tell you – and without accidents. There’s a lot of apprehension with climbing rocks that evaporates once you realize how safe you are. Guy has fool-proof and panic-proof safety measures in place; all of it is there to ensure that if you slip, start to fall, or whatever, you’ll be quite safe.

And you’re not left on your own either – Guy is always there to assist you. But also important, the safety features allow you to dispel your fear and concentrate on having some serious fun. You’ll be hooked.

Guy’s terrain, where you can practice rock climbing, is between Lamai and Chaweng, almost opposite Vikasa Yoga Retreat & Hotel. There’s a small road that goes up at an alarming angle into the cliffside, and if you follow it, you’ll come to Guy’s place. Make sure you walk along that road (it’s five minutes to Guy’s) and don’t attempt to drive it or ride up on a motorbike – it’s one of the steepest roads on Samui and also has an extremely sharp, blind bend. At the end of the road, a space opens out, offering you fine views of Chaweng and its coast on one side and on the other, a rock-face. It’s quite silent up here, a world away from all that’s going on below. There’s almost the feeling of a sanctuary.

www.samuiholiday.com l 19

The rock surfaces are studded with handholds, some of which are similar to those found in climbing centres, carefully arranged in sets so you can make your ascent harder or easier. Start with an easy route up and as you become more confident you can graduate towards to the more difficult ways up. What goes up must come down, and in this case it’s rappelling down. It’s as fun as it looks – and again, as secure. There are plenty of safety features and don’t worry, modern climbing tools and accessories are all designed to do the right thing even if someone’s very panicky and about to make mistakes.

Guy offers ten different rock climbing routes and two rappelling routes.

Altogether there are over 40 different ways to go up or down the slopes.

The average visitor stays about three hours. Guy offers a package which includes a round-trip pick-up service, allowing you to relax and concentrate on climbing rather than driving to the destination.

20 l www.samuiholiday.com

Guy is extremely helpful, and soon you’ll be clambering up rock faces and rappelling down them. He’ll give you simple tips to help you to get the best out of the experience. It’s a fun, fit activity to add into any holiday and it’ll give you some unforgettably good memories. It’ll also give you something else: confidence. Not just in climbing but other seemingly difficult areas. After all, if you can climb a sheer cliff, then who knows what else you can do? “It’s all in the mind,” says Guy. “And it’s also just a question of practice.”

Dimitri Waring

_____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 612 300 767.

Facebook: rockclimbsamui.

AS FEATURED IN

AS FEATURED ON

C HILL DIFFERENT

6pm - 9pm President’s Seafood BBQ

Reservations: 077 458 100

/ BeachRepublic

ZOOMING

DOWN TO ZICO’S

Super food and entertainment too? Some of the best of both can be found down at Zico’s on Chaweng Beach Road.

I’ve been here a long while now, and I’d be the first to say that Samui’s got it all. There’s nightlife and parties aplenty. And it’s a shoppers’ paradise. And yet, only 20 minutes from all of this, you’ll find unspoiled beaches and little rustic huts. And when it comes to eating out, it’s foodie heaven! There’s cuisine from every nation, street stalls, food markets, 5-star resorts and top restaurants everywhere. But, you know, I’ve had a sudden thought. I can think of very few places where you can enjoy dinner and a show.

Sure, we’ve got lots of entertainment from live bands to ladyboy cabarets. And a great many resorts will feature a Thai dancing group or a fire-juggling act. But when it comes to pinning down a really good restaurant which is also known for its shows, they really are few and far between. One or two have come and gone over the years. But there’s

26 l www.samuiholiday.com

only really one that’s still alive and kicking. It’s been here for a while.

It’s down at the southern end of Chaweng Beach Road. And its name is Zico’s Brazilian Grill & Bar. Zico’s has always been in something of a class of its own – mainly because there’s absolutely nothing else like it on the island! It’s big, double-fronted, and with a lofty entrance flanked by Roman pillars. But the high exterior, with its concrete and wood façade, doesn’t hint at the roomy layout within. Coming up the steps and in through the entrance, you’ll be surprised that you’ve just entered a kind of atrium that’s floored with big slate tiles yet open to the sky above. This is a part of the overall dining area, the other part of which is air-conditioned and behind a wall of glass to your left. And then there’s also a really nice cosy bar, up the steps on your right.

Plus there’s also the fact that this is the only Brazilian venue on the island.

Other places might feature Latin-music or have a salsa night, but Zico’s is Brazilian through and through. From the bouncy Latin music, to the style and form of the unique cuisine, to the quite special dancers who perform nightly. Most of the time the background music is just that – unobtrusive and secondary. But between 8:00 pm and 10:00 pm, all diners are happy to put their knives and forks to one side for a while as the exotic dancers take to the floor. And they’ll then perform with astonishing energy, 30-minutes on and 30 minutes break, between which times the music will fade again. The setting is just great, the range and quality of the food is fabulous.

It’s tempting to say that the format of the Latin-style dining here is similar to a buffet. But it’s actually quite different to any that we’re used to. At

the centre of the far end of the dining area is one of the biggest salad bars I’ve ever seen. And the word ‘salad’ doesn’t even begin to convey the range and variety of foods that are spread over these two huge tables; they’re far too numerous to list; soup, numerous full-mix salads, bacon, sliced meat, dressings, toppings, dips and green salad – plus there’s a hot section, too. But you get the idea – it’s a banquet!

But that’s only a part of it because then there’s probably the most definitive aspect of all - the ‘passadors’. I’ve heard them wittily described as ‘wandering skewer maidens’, although this seems to sidestep their Brazilian origins. There are perhaps 10 of these, whose only aim in life is to stroll around between the tables tempting you with yet more freshlymade cooked goodies: Wagyu beef, beef tenderloin, strip loin, Aussie lamb, pork loin, cooked ham with honey, chorizo, pork sausage; chicken

www.samuiholiday.com l 27

breast, duck breast, barracuda, Norwegian salmon and black tiger prawns – plus a fruit and veggie skewer, too.

However, if you’re now imagining kebabs, you’re way off the mark!

These ‘skewers’ are the granddaddy of all skewers, being around three feet in length and packed with pressed offerings that mostly need to be hand-carved direct onto your plate. (There’s an open kitchen at one end of the dining area where you can see a team of chefs busily at work making up new ones to replace the skewers that are being depleted.)

Plus as well as the cold dishes there’s the hot ‘side dish’ selection to maintain: mashed and baked potato, potato gratin, fries, soft corn polenta, grilled and marinated vegetables, sizzled vegetables, stew - the list goes on! In fact it’s not uncommon for guests to come in here at 7:00 pm, take half an hour’s break in the bar, dine again, watch the dancers and then eat some more. And the code for ‘more’ is the two-sided disk by the side of your plate: red side up means ‘I need a break’. Green side means ‘feed me!’

28 l www.samuiholiday.com

Zico’s is actually owned, managed and staffed by a nearby 5-star hotel. Which means that they’re constantly adding new promotions and incentives. Each night of the week has something different, from Monday’s Mojito Madness to Thirsty Thursday (four bottles of local beer for 300 baht) through to Sangria Sunday (99 baht a glass). And that’s not to mention that the upstairs bar stays open until 1:00 am, plus sells a range of craft beers, too; full details are on their website.

Finally, the cost. It’s just 850 baht for all of this, with kids under 12 at half price. (There’s also a 680 baht option with a choice of fewer skewers.) But you’ll discover all this for yourself – after you’ve gone zooming down to Zico’s!

Rob De Wet

_____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7723 0500. www.zicossamui.com

30 l www.samuiholiday.com

FINS OF FURY A look at the place of the Siamese fighting fish in popular Thai culture.

www.samuiholiday.com l 31

32 l www.samuiholiday.com

The Thai nation just loves a good fight! Plus, of course, they’re a very sporting kind of a nation. Top of the list has to be their national sport, the Thai boxing known as ‘Muay Thai’. And like many other facets of Thailand, it’s steeped in a whole wrap of pageantry and ritual that is just as much part of the ethos as the spectacularly fast leaps and kicks that characterise the sport.

But, down at grass roots level, few ordinary folk can aspire to the riches and glory that Muay Thai can offer – you need to be young, fit and fast and not a little mean for that! On the other hand, a buffalo will do quite nicely – making the noble art of buffalo fighting a convenient number two combat sport. Or, if buffalos are a bit too big and lumpy and cost a lot to feed, how about pitting a couple of cocks against each other instead? Or . . . if cages full of squawking cockerels are really getting on your neighbours’ nerves, what about something altogether smaller, quieter and cheaper? How about a fish?

This is how it all began, hundreds of years ago, in the poorer part of the northeast of Thailand. Nobody knows for certain when it started, there are no written records, and Thai history is patchy and concerns itself with important things like kings and queens and battles. Some sociologists guess at five or six hundred years, but this is based on the knowledge that these fish were being bred during that period for their beautiful plumage and were a favourite at the Royal Court.

But, somewhere in a rice field in Issan, the plain, dull-green variety were being pulled out of the water and put, two in a tank, to fight. All that’s definitely known about the origins of the sport is that official reports of fights start to appear in the 1800s, and King Chulalongkorn, the beloved Rama V, not only recognised and legalised fish fights but also owned an impressive collection himself. Since then the Thai term for fish fighting has emerged as ‘plakat’, hence the sport has become known as ‘plakat Thai’, and has spread all over Thailand, with each region favouring their own variety of fighting fish.

The species itself is ‘Betta’, and there are three Betta species; splendens, smaragdina and imbellis, of which splendens is the most colourful and the best known. It is also the most reliable fighter and the most in demand.

www.samuiholiday.com l 33

They are found in the wild throughout the extensive Mekong River basin of Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, in the standing waters of canals, rice paddies, and floodplains. But they are now much sought-after and collected, leading curiously to a wild series of colonies having been recently discovered around Adelaide in Australia.

Siamese Fighting Fish are generally quite docile and – much the same as buffalos – have to be trained and practically goaded into fighting.

In nature, this only ever happens with males, as a result of the territorial invasion of another male. It’s true, yes, that they have teeth and use them to snap and tear at the flowing fins of their rival. And it’s this behaviour that has led to some bad press as they have spread into domestic aquaria around the world – they’ve gained the reputation of being aggressive. Although, as one breeder pointed out, in actual fact they are shy and a little anti-social, preferring to keep to themselves.

Unfortunately, other fish see their huge and billowing fins as something possibly edible, and the annoyed self-defence of the Thai fish causes them to be perceived as troublemakers.

In the northeast of Thailand, the fighting season runs from March until September. But, amazingly, over the generations, each breeder has been releasing the small fry of his champions back into his secret ponds in the fields, selectively strengthening his bloodline. Fighting champions are bred to have thicker lips and a sturdier body, and to have smaller fins with less area to bite at. These little fish make themselves a nest of bubbles in which they live and breed. The mating pair creates hundreds of fry. And then the big problem – how does the breeder pick out the best fighters? The method, which has been developed over centuries of experience, is both simple and clever.

The breeder places a bamboo tube at the side of the pond. Early in the morning, he just lifts the tube out of the water and checks to see if there is a fighter inside the bamboo or not. Only the strongest fighters will be able to chase off others and claim the tube for occupation, as it’s the best location for building a nest and waiting for a fishy lover.

The bamboo tube is the best and strongest shelter to hide in because it will protect the delicate bubble nest from winds and an unstable water surface. In short, only the strongest fish can claim the best location to breed. And the breeder takes that one to fight in the ‘ring’. But, having picked out his best fish, there’s an intensive program of training which in comparison makes a Muay Thai boxer’s look like child’s play. This

34 l www.samuiholiday.com

involves sudden temperature changes, spraying his fish with water, putting mirrors inside the tank to duplicate another fish – there are all sorts of tricks!

And the contest itself? Well, it’s really very civilised. The two fish are placed into a tall square glass and immediately start to circle each other. One will then suddenly make a dash at the other, flaring his fins, prompting the other fish to quickly retaliate. After 20 or 30 minutes, one of the fish will give up and swim into a corner, mostly having suffered no damage. If it gets to one hour with nobody backing down, then the fight is considered a draw.

And the best bit? Unlike animals that are trained to compete and restricted in captivity, all of this (except for the fight itself) still happens in the fish’s natural habitat. The competitors are released back to where they came from, none the worse for wear, to breed again for the following year – and I bet there’s more than a few Thai kick boxers that wish that could happen to them!

Rob De Wet

HAND-MADE JEWELRY MADE TO ORDER. GOLD, SILVER, LEATHER, PRECIOUS AND SEMI PRECIOUS STONES. TWO LOCATIONS IN CHAWENG: 1ST: CHAWENG BEACH ROAD, PHONE: +(66)0 7742 2594 2ND: CENTRAL FESTIVAL SAMUI 2ND FLOOR, PHONE: +(66)0 7796 3811 WWW.THAILAND-JEWELRY.COM Nature Art Gallery Central Festival Samui CHAWENG BEACH ROAD

TURNING A NEW PAGE Fine dining at The Library, a minimalist resort in the heart of Chaweng.

A library is defined as; a place set apart to contain books, periodicals and other material for reading, viewing, listening, study or reference.

A room or set of rooms or buildings where books may be read or borrowed. A library is a quiet place that invites you to sit with a book in quiet contemplation and thought.

And that’s exactly what The Library is. Set against the alluring and irresistible backdrop that is Koh Samui’s Chaweng Beach, The Library is an extremely unique and bold beachfront resort with a back cover that reads of unparalleled individualism and unmatched luxury. With a collection of just 46 studios, suites and pool villas, with room numbers as page numbers, spread over 12,800 square meters of land, this minimalist resort provides plenty of quiet space to read, roam, and reflect. And of course, it really does have its own library!

This stunning and remarkable space was designed and created especially for those who appreciate art. Creative thinkers, architects, interior designers, graphic designers, photographers, artists and those who lean towards art in any form. The open and spacious lawn area is littered with huge, shady trees and ten contemplative statues of book readers. It feels so totally calm and serene that you just want to sit down and join them.

The ultimate statement piece in the resort is most definitely the pool. The tiles are a kaleidoscope of red, orange and yellow mosaic tiles. When

the sun is overhead, the red absorbs and the yellow reflects, the result is a play of light over the pool, giving it a luminous sheen. With blue skies above and turquoise sea behind, it is most definitely planning to be noticed!

In a prime location, smack-bang on the beachfront in Chaweng, sits The Library’s symbolic restaurant; The Page. It’s the perfect name. Liken it to a crisp, unmarked, new sheet of paper. White, clean and serene, with stories yet to be written and memories yet to be stored. You can sit beachside, on the deck or in the restaurant itself. The menu now offers more Thai dishes, many of which feature rare, old-kingdom Thai cuisine, not found elsewhere, even in Thai restaurants. Old, hard-to-find original recipes have been re-worked with a decidedly modern and creative presentation, yet still offering a glimpse into a previous age. On the menu, these dishes are labelled ‘RARE’. Other symbols enabling you to choose wisely are; a star for signature dishes, a chilli if it is very spicy and a leaf for vegetarian options. And don’t worry, the menu still retains the ever-popular international fare that The Page is renowned for.

Examples of the intriguing rare old-kingdom Thai offerings are; Savoury Crab Crepe Bites with seasoned coconut and shrimp, Red Onion and Ground Beef in coconut cream, Rice Salad with fish flakes and toasted coconut or Grilled Smoked Mackerel and Mushroom Pudding.

The lunch menu now also introduces the concept of ‘going back to www.samuiholiday.com l 39

basics’ with Kin Hor. This three-course lunch of five dishes is served in a pinto, a set of stacked containers that you may see Thai people eating their lunch from. The idea originated at gatherings, before there were any restaurants on Samui. Each family would bring their best dishes to the feast, to share with the entire group. This is a set menu for two people and includes a salad, three main courses with rice and a dessert, served with tea or coffee. It’s a great way to share a leisurely lunch with family or friends in fantastic surroundings.

The new dinner menu now introduces the Thai concept of sharing dishes with ‘Samrab Thai’. This eight-course ensemble of 11 dishes combines the eight distinct flavour and texture profiles of traditional Thai cooking into a majestic dinner feast. From sweet, sour, salty, spicy, bitter, nutty, crunchy and smooth, the complete Samrab Thai brings distinct yet complimentary tastes into a single shared extravaganza of a feast. Some of the dishes come from the ‘rare’ collection and are only found on this menu. An example is the Thai Fermented Sweet Rice. This is a cold, fermented black rice which tastes like vodka and is meant as a palette cleanser. Without giving much more away, the mains come in four sections; soup and curry, grilled and roasted, stir and deep fried and relishes which add some crunchy textures to the other dishes. There is also a Samrab Thai menu complete with wisely chosen wine pairings to complement each course.

If you are strictly an international food kind of person, don’t worry, all the old favourites; steaks, Wagyu beef, lobster, surf and turf and pan-seared Australian kingfish with foie gras are still there!

The Page is keen on creativity and all things out-of-the-box. Relax and indulge at Samui’s trendiest beachfront restaurant with unique offerings available from sun-up till sun-down. Start your day with ‘breakfast in bed’ right on the beach whilst watching the sunrise. Yes, they bring an actual bed with crisp white sheets onto the beach for you. Breakfast is served to you from the breakfast buffet or a la carte menu, whilst you relax and watch the dawn turn to day! This is a ‘must book’ extravaganza and advance reservation is necessary.

Fancy a relaxing and sophisticated afternoon tea by the sea? A choice selection of teas, savouries, pastries, exotic fruit and scones is an elegant

40 l www.samuiholiday.com

highlight to anyone’s day. Want to bypass the tea and head straight for the cocktails? The Beach Bar has become an institution in Samui, offering over 100 drink selections coupled with flavourful tapas and snacks. Try a Bashful Grissini Dipper or a Tom Yum Rum. Happy hours are from 5:00 pm to 7:00 pm when there is often live music to help soothe the transition from day to night.

With a menu of Thai and international fusion and a host of “Original Experiences” found nowhere else, The Page has inevitably made its mark on Samui’s upscale dining scene. Opening hours at The Page are daily from 7:00 am until midnight, and The Beach Bar from 11:00 am until midnight.

Always keen to try something new, innovations happen first at The Library. There will always be more pages added, so keep on turning them; you don’t want to miss out!

Karan Ladd

___________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 2767-8. www.thelibrarysamui.com

www.samuiholiday.com l 41

GOING GLOBAL Urban clothing is always in vogue. Psylo’s two stores in Chaweng showcase fashion that has world-wide appeal.

Creativity in fashion may abound, but some designs are so original, you may wonder who on earth would buy them, while others are so gossamer light that they seem ready to fall apart if you just look at them.

Then the ones which are designed to last are often stunningly ugly. For aesthetically pleasing design that’s functional, it’s hard to find a meld of adventurousness and creativity that ticks all the boxes.

Psylo manages to do so; it’s a growing brand that has always dared to try out new approaches, and has the guts to create clothing that has emotional appeal; people feel drawn to the label and better still, feel good when wearing these clothes.

of dusty roads. The brand sprang out of the years of travels that the founders of Psylo, Ami and Dan, engaged in; they explored as many places they could, from South America to India and then further to East Asia. They realized that it wasn’t just travel that drew them together, but fashion inspired by being on-the-go. They not only liked the rugged nomadic looks of certain textiles and designs that caught their attention, but they were inspired by how local cultures factored in art and creativity into clothing. The Psylo design team drew their references from the wilder areas they travelled through, such as the Amazon, as well as the cities, big and small, that punctuated their journeys. Gradually the ‘Ethno Punk’ style emerged, and they went with it until it became a brand.

Psylo came about more or less by chance. It didn’t emerge from some hyper cool atelier, but was a spin-off of travel, and thousands of miles

They didn’t want the sameness and wastefulness of industrial production, and neither did they want all the wasteful industrial processes, plastics

44 l www.samuiholiday.com

and doubtful textiles. They wanted something that would be kinder to the environment. Wherever possible, they use organic and natural materials, and eschew the artificial in all its myriad forms. Or they’ll use products that exist already and which are directly recycled. For example, in a rack of what looks like leather accessories, you’ll find belts that you have to look hard at before you realise that they’re not leather but rubber. Made from motorbike tyres, they’re given a very sophisticated hand-made finish. And no, you can’t see any tread marks; it’s all expertly done.

The factory where the clothes are mostly made is in Bali. It is owned

by Psylo itself, and run by Balinese staff. Psylo is therefore directly responsible for the production and the people who work there. Fair working conditions are maintained, and Psylo isn’t part of the abusive systems that the garment industry is so often guilty of fostering and

maintaining. Check out the videos that are playing in the stores and you’ll see that amongst the fashion clips there’s also footage showing the factory. You’ll see that there’s a totally professional, yet family-like atmosphere that underpins the enterprise.

Psylo presents an entire spectrum of clothing and also stocks many accessories such as belts, bags, wristbands and even footwear – there’s a select offering of shoes and boots. It’s a repertoire that’s been curated to form an appealing ensemble.

Whether you’re a teenager, an adult or a child, the clothes seem to suit any age range, and you’ll see a very mixed clientele trying them on in the stores. The colours, which are often earth hues and come straight out of nature, are popular with just about everyone. Many reference

www.samuiholiday.com l 45

myths that underpin their place of origin, so you might find a t-shirt, for example, that’s decorated with enigmatic, smoky script from some longgone era, or a stencilled motif of a fabled being. Interesting? Definitely.

There’s nothing quite like this clothing anywhere else, and Psylo has many devoted followers.

The Psylo team are forever on the look-out for what’s new or simply different. From uneven cuts and textures, to unusual items such as leg warmers and neck warmers, the latter looking like quirky scarves, but entirely comfortable – and great for when you’re sitting for hours in a chilly airplane or cinema.

Psylo has stores in London, Bali and Mexico. The two stores on Samui, meanwhile, are within a few minutes walking distance of each other. The first is on Chaweng Beach Road, just a couple of hundred metres north of Central Festival, while the other is in Central Festival itself, on the ground floor. Both open daily at 11:00 am and close at 11:00 pm (Chaweng

46 l www.samuiholiday.com

Beach Road store) and 11:30 pm (Central Festival), daily. But no matter if you can’t get to visit, Psylo’s excellent and informative website allows you to browse and buy on-line.

With its timeless, ageless appeal, top quality finishes and robust fabrics and urban fashion, Psylo has been going from strength and strength, and that trend is set to continue. The line of clothing and accessories that they’ve put together is certainly eye-catching, and customers can look forward to new surprises being added all the time.

Dimitri Waring

_____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7725 6157 (Chaweng Beach branch) or 0 7741 0452 (Central Festival branch) or 0 879 288 748. www.psylofashion.com

MEET THE TEAM, LIVE THE DREAM Experience Loft by Oriental Living.

Are you looking for an inspired, thought-provoking, stylish, honest and affordable shopping experience in order to furnish your home? Do you want to find bold, modern, old or antique furnishings with happy, innovative, functional forms and colours? Look no further than Loft, Oriental Living’s new younger, vibrant and motivational retail store.

Oriental Living is the best known and most prestigious provider of interior design and high-end furnishings on Samui and Phuket. They have developed their brand and reputation over the last 20 years, listening tirelessly to their customers’ needs and desires, and working together with them, sourcing new furniture, new ideas and original designs. They are flexible, move goal posts, and redesign over and over until the required look and feel is finally achieved. They provide a one-stop service for clients in need of tailor-made design and furniture solutions, offering custom-designed furniture packages for private residences, hotels, real estate projects and businesses, and they are great at what they do.

50 l www.samuiholiday.com

Loft by Oriental Living has now been open on Samui for a whole year, and probably provides the happiest, most inspirational and honest shopping experience to be found on the island. And it’s no surprise that both ventures are owned and managed by the very charismatic and straight-talking Dutchman, Michael Dietvorst. Thailand’s Alex W. Raksai works closely with Michael, and must be the friendliest, most mischievous and smiley interior designer I have ever met! His use of the English language includes puns and colloquialisms. He’s a great guy to chat with, and is extremely knowledgeable and creative in his chosen trade.

All Loft staff are part of the Oriental Living team, and they all work together as one big happy, harmonious and hard-working family. The Thai staff all speak English with each other at work in order to practice their language skills, and share experience and knowledge. There are definitely no ostriches here, with their heads stuck in the sand! But don’t expect them to run up to you as you enter the store, or stalk you as you

Established on Koh Samui in 2003, our lifestyle retreat center, offers all inclusive programs for your body, mind and spirit.

Yoga Retreats & Training Detox, De-stress, Weight Loss & Wellness Spa

Programs wander around taking in the eclectic collection of furniture, art and décor. They will be engrossed in their own projects, but keeping a watchful eye out just in case you are in need of help or advice. When you enter the store, you are a guest and will be treated as such. Good quality coffee, tea or water are offered, as well as an expert ear to listen and advise. You will be asked searching and relevant questions such as ‘what is its function or use?’ All information offered, will be totally honest, making sure that whatever you are after is fit for your purpose. If you want an outside dining table, you will not be sold anything that might rust in the prevalent humidity of the Samui climate! After all, the Oriental Living rock-solid 20-year reputation is at stake!

So, who are the amazing staff at Loft? Khun Alex is Michael’s business partner. Khun Id is the calm one. He excels in competitive team sports such as volleyball and badminton. He also loves

Asia’s top wellness resort

BEST YOGA RETREAT

Located on Laem Sor Beach

Connect with our team!

t: 077 920 090 | e: info@samahitaretreat.com

www.samahitaretreat.com

interacting with the customers, and thoroughly enjoys working in the ‘big homely, comfortable and relaxing space’ that the store offers. Khun Ellie enjoys belonging to the Oriental Living team, and in her own time she loves nothing better than spending time with her family. Khun Ellie is the juggler of the team. She thrives on solving coordination and logistics puzzles that sometimes present themselves. Delivery, installation dates and times are the challenges that she is a natural winner at. All of the team love their jobs, they relish the time spent in such a huge open and airy space filled with natural light and the unpretentious and cosy, themed areas. Lounges, dining rooms and bedrooms are laid out with beautiful designs, colourful and happy, functional furniture, art, lamps and décor. You can really visualise just what your home might look like.

The team believe strongly in encouraging creativity and originality. Throw some ideas at them and they will be happy to give you feedback and suggestions on feasibility and outcome. The quality and standard of items for sale at the store are similar to that at Oriental Living, but because they buy items in larger numbers, the cost savings are passed on to you.

The team are still searching out those unique and individual designs

52 l www.samuiholiday.com

throughout Asia, but they may buy ten of each item direct from a supplier or factory. This keeps the prices down and is the perfect solution if you are looking for just a few pieces to complete a room. Or if you own a hotel, condominium or villa and want to furnish it in its entirety. Loft is about buying retail directly from the shop, but they also have a team on hand to source in bulk if you see a design or style that you like.

On leaving the store, you will feel inspired, happy and much more informed. If you make a purchase requiring delivery, or you enquire after an item they don’t currently have in stock, communication about the order will happen swiftly at every stage, always with a friendly and helpful face or telephone voice. If there are unexpected delays, Khun Ellie, the master juggler, will try her best to find an acceptable temporary replacement. The entire team treat customer service as the most important part of their job. Long after your purchase has been delivered and accepted, you can always call on them with any ongoing issues.

All staff at Loft by Oriental Living are extremely well trained. They are as meticulous and careful with you, the customers, as they are with the

Curry Hut Indian Traditional & Authentic Food

furnishings. The sum of all their parts is much greater than the individuals, which makes them a formidable team. Everyone is trained to do one another’s jobs. It’s part of the happy team environment and means there is never a problem through illness or absence.

You will find them just across the road from the Big C Superstore in Bophut, with parking directly outside the store and across the road at Big C. The store features an ever-changing collection of interior and exterior furniture and home decoration, with great designs at affordable prices. So, come along, meet the team and transform your house into your dream home!

Karan Ladd

_______________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7724 7675 for Samui or 0 7632 5419 for Phuket. www.oriental-living.net

Tel: 0831801141, 0963800541, 0815505194 Email: curryhut.samui@gmail.com Air-conditioned section available on 2nd floor.

Central Festival

Hard Rock Cafe Chaweng Beach Road Curry Hut Indian

Baan Chaweng

54 l www.samuiholiday.com

ISLAND GEMS Nature Art Gallery is filled with semi-precious stones, jewels and ornaments – come and browse to your heart’s content.

www.samuiholiday.com l 55

Avid collectors will have a field day at any of the four branches of Nature Art Gallery, a treasure trove of jewellery and precious stones with two outlets on Samui, and two more over in Haad Rin on Koh Pha-Ngan. The owners, Michael Trav and Shai Nissim, have worked for many years in the jewellery business, and have an eye for what makes a great design. Their stores are full of them. They’ve forged contacts with suppliers of precious and semi-precious stones, and with craftspeople who turn out stylish and often unique jewellery. The galleries showcase handmade pieces from select artists from not just Thailand and South-east Asia, but far further afield.

Much of the work that you’ll see on display has a tropical feel about it; these pieces seem made for long, hot summer days and nights. But exotic as they are, they’re versatile and will look just as good in wintry climes. The carefully crafted designs may be simple or complicated, but each represents the knowledge of a master jeweller. There is flow to them too; many depict animals or designs from nature that are all to do with movement. For example, you’ll see the snaky tail of a lizard, a wavelike pattern or a unicorn that looks set to spring into the air. All of these designs have been chosen as they are bright, creative and surprising.

Step into the flagship store in Chaweng, just opposite the southern exit of Central Festival, and you’ll see all kinds of designs and motifs that are inspiring. The other stores are slightly smaller (one is on the upper floor of Central Festival itself) but all follow the same theme of creativity and flair.

This ranges across all manner of jewellery from earrings and necklaces to pendants and bracelets. There’s a broad spectrum of prices too; you can spend just a couple of hundred baht and bring home something that you’ll always treasure, or you can invest in something for a really special occasion. Whether you are in the mood for saving or splurging, most of the wares here are not at all on the expensive side; none of the Nature Art stores are the kind of place where you look at the prices and then automatically gulp. And if there’s something that you’d like made up, this can be done with extraordinary ease: above the main showroom, there are specialist craftspeople and jewellers who will be able to make up your order from a drawing, photograph or description. Again, this service isn’t at all pricey. Generally items take one or two days to complete, longer if they’re complicated. You can also, incidentally, have repairs made if your own jewellery from back home has suddenly developed problems.

Nature Art Gallery is also a place to head to if you’re looking for semiprecious stones. Each store has dozens of small trays that are filled with small polished pebbles or rocks. You’re encouraged to browse, but not simply by looking. For although the stones may first attract by their bright colours, each has a different feel. So browsing means picking them up and trying to perceive their different qualities. You might be surprised at just how unusual the stones feel; each type seems to radiate a different energy. “Don’t worry about trying to make a choice between stones,” says Michael. “It’s not you who chooses the stone; it’s the stone that chooses you. If you keep a stone close by you, it will affect you in some way.” Hold a stone that you like and after a while you may well begin to feel your mood alter. All this may seem arcane and new-agey, but once you actually hold the stones you may be quite surprised. Some people like to carry one or other stones around in their pocket, although many of Michael and Shai’s clients have them made into jewellery. Incidentally, there are also charts available at the stores that describe the properties of each kind of stone to assist in your selection.

Apart from stones and jewellery, you’ll find plenty of accessories, too, such as belts and bags and purses. Designs range through traditional to the hypermodern – take your pick.

At Nature Art Gallery, a unifying theme, if there can be said to be one, isn’t the fine design, as there’s such a variety, but the fact that everything

58 l www.samuiholiday.com

here is durable. Made to last for years, rather than here-today-fallenapart-tomorrow. This underpins all the excellent artistry that you’ll find in the stores.

And as implied by the name of the stores, everything that you’ll find at Nature Art Gallery is, yes, natural. The materials used go beyond stones and minerals to include just about everything that occurs out-doors. You’ll find leather, shells, coconuts, various woods and even more unexpected items such as elephant hair. Everything that can be found in nature and plays a part does so; the results can be astonishingly creative at times.

There are quite a few good reasons for visiting Nature Art Gallery.

Whether you’re building up your own jewellery or rock collection or hunting for a souvenir of your time on Samui, these beautiful stores are sure to mesmerize you with what’s inside them. With their clean lines and easy-on-the-eye displays and helpful assistants, it’s always a delight to come and browse for artefacts of all kinds. You’ll never know what kind of treasure you’ll come across once you step inside.

Dimitri Waring

____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7742 2594. www.thailand-jewellery.com

ENGAGING AND AMAZING. W Koh Samui wows with its superlative food, drink and chilling.

When it comes to travel, we all hope to be in a state of wide-eyed wonder when we arrive at our destination. Samui as a world vacation destination certainly provides marvels a-plenty with its beaches, jungle and uproarious party life. And beyond that, a handful of its resorts and hotels provide almost as much wonder as the island itself. With luxury brands making their home here, parts of the island are famed for the best food and drink imaginable, all niched into settings that are amongst the most sought-out by holidaymakers.

aesthetic detail, but you don’t need to be vacationing here to take advantage of what W is all about. Spend a few hours unwinding in the bars and restaurants here, and enjoy some of the best food and drink to be had, all of it in stylish settings. Here’s a brief round-up of what’s available at W, starting from just beyond the hilltop main lobby and working down to the coast. It’s a feast for the eyes as much as the palate, and W Koh Samui has garnered some serious attention for both looks and taste.

W Koh Samui is as much known for its dining facilities as it is for its beach, which sits on both sides of its remarkable headland. Everybody who’s ever come here agrees that the location is one of the best on Samui. It’s also deliciously private; so much so that it has a total hideaway feel to it. Just a 15 minute drive from the pulsating night life of Chaweng, it’s spectacularly separate yet easily accessible, right at the western end of the bay of Maenam.

Woobar and The Barrel Room

If you’re a guest, it’s an amazing place to stay if you love creative and 62 l www.samuiholiday.com

One of the island’s most spectacular bars deserves a visit in its own right.

Walk in through the atrium of W Koh Samui and you’ll see it just a few steps away. Woobar sits at just about the highest point in the resort and looks out over an entire maritime panorama, gazing out to idyllic Koh Pha-Ngan beyond. Lush green foliage can be glimpsed either side of the bar reminding you that the jungle’s always close at hand on Samui.

The fact the bar has seating sunken down into beautiful pools just adds

to the pizzazz. Come and experience an entire range of cocktails, as well as some highly innovative craft beers. A half dozen DJs rotate through the week and every night there’s a different theme. Many attend the Wednesday night ‘50/50’ extravaganza; order a drink, flip a coin.

Heads or tails? If you guess correctly, W picks up the tab, if not you pay the regular price. Definitely the place to come and chill out. It’s open daily from 11:00 am until midnight. There’s an entrance fee for nonguests of 1,000 Baht, redeemable against food and drink. Close by Woobar, you’ll find The Barrel Room, where you can try out some of W’s very own brand of cocktails, along with cigars and wines. The setting is cosy and select, a little world on its own, and befittingly chilled.

The Kitchen Table W Koh Samui’s all-day international dining facilities are located just under Woobar in an extremely contemporary dining area, with blond wood and veranda-style windows which allow you to take in the same views from upstairs. On Sundays come for the ‘Lazy Breakfast’, not quite

a brunch, as it finishes at midday, but more a deluxe way to start your day. As popular as it is decadent, this is undoubtedly one of the best breakfasts on the island.

The Kitchen Table also puts on a special tea-time, daily, but it’s not just a worthy round of sandwiches and a pot of tea. It’s a contemporary take on afternoon delicacies that doesn’t just give it a boost but turns tea-time on its head. W T-Time, as it’s called starts with the arrival of a Perspex chest of drawers, filled with delicacies such as smoked salmon finger sandwiches, hummus and cucumber rolls and marinated chicken drumsticks. Desserts consist of temptations such as Valhrona chocolate opera cake, macaroons, and the pastry chef’s signature cakes. Definitely come hungry and be ready to linger. W T-Time is served every day from 2:00 pm to 5:00 pm at The Kitchen Table or if you prefer upstairs at Woobar.

www.samuiholiday.com l 63

Namu There’s nothing quite like it on Samui, or even faintly like it. Namu, W’s signature restaurant offers top-notch Japanese sushi, sashimi and other delights in a convivial air-con dining room and outdoor terrace next to the sea. It’s a cool take on contemporary Japanese food, as relaxed as an izakaya, yet as sophisticated as a first-class restaurant in Tokyo or Osaka. It has influences that channel the best of Asian contemporary cuisine as well as international. Take a seat at the bar and you can watch the chef, Fook Seong Kok, more usually known simply as Chef Andy, and his team work their creative magic, dexterously preparing your sushi before your eyes. You can enjoy something very simple such as edamame or gyoza, as well as an exquisite lobster dish or premium Wagyu beef, but you’ll find no matter what you choose, that it’s engagingly delicate and perfectly presented. These are the real tastes of Japan, wonderfully re-created thousands of miles away. You can even arrange a cooking session with Chef Andy where he’ll teach you how to make classic Japanese dishes – it’s a rare chance to learn from a maestro. If you’d like an extremely romantic dinner, Chef Andy can provide it for you, right on the beach. Dining under the Stars, as it’s called, is highly recommended, and will be instantly memorable and a stand-out feature of any holiday on Samui.

Namu is open daily from 6:00 pm until approximately 10:00 pm in the evenings, but now you can also come for lunch on Friday, Saturday or Sunday between 12:30 pm and 3:00 pm. Lunch has four different set menus (Chicken Teriyaki, Sushi & Sashimi, Vegetarian and Grilled Shansho with Caper Sauce Set) as well as à la carte fare.

Sip Open from 11:00 am until 11:00 pm, W’s beach bar, Sip, is both relaxed and sophisticated at the same time. Come and enjoy snacks and all manner of beverages while you gaze out to sea. Situated right on the 64 l www.samuiholiday.com

headland that divides the bay of Maenam from that of Bophut, it’s quite different from anything that you might usually encounter in a beach bar.

Sip also hosts a single weekly event, ‘Monday Night at the Movies’.

Mainstream films are shown but the setting isn’t exactly like your local Cineplex. It’s held adjacent to Sip right in the open air. Choose between a daybed, beanbags or a modernistic circular pod with views out onto the sea. The evening starts at 7:00 pm with drinks and at 8:00 pm the film is shown. What could be more fun? Especially with the added faint soundtrack of swaying palms? Better still, there’s no admission fee, apart from any food and drink.

Beach Grill Amazing days on the beach call for food to match, and here at W’s beach bar, you’ll find a medley of treats that range from grilled dishes, through Thai salads to mouth-watering sandwiches and burgers. And there are all the various types of drinks to quench your thirst, too. Nestled into the trees, Beach Grill provides both shade and cool, ideal for a break from the sun.

With three bars and three restaurants, W Koh Samui has you covered when it comes to food, drink and chilling. Ranging from beachside snacks to full gourmet dining, W makes sure that whatever it does is intensely creative and therefore bound to please. They also regularly host one-off events; most recently guest chef Tim Butler from Eat Me restaurant exhibited his exciting menu at Namu, and an exclusive fashion showcase of ALIX bodysuits straight from New York City. One to watch, W Koh Samui is always at the helm of what’s new and cool.

Dimitri Waring

_____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information telephone: 0 7791 5999. www.wretreatkohsamui.com Facebook.com/Wkohsamui

MONEY MONEY MONEY It can be a nightmare trying to work out the best way to access your holiday cash in Thailand – here’s some info and tips on how to do it.

Just a generation back, it was easy. There was no internet or online banking. In fact, there were also very few international ATM machines, either. All of which sounds far more bothersome than it is today. And that’s quite true. But it was still a much easier process – simply because there was hardly any choice. Today, however, it’s just the opposite. There are cards of different types, each of them having different costs and conditions. There’s ‘instant’ online money transfers, all working in different ways. And there are still even travellers’ cheques – remember them?

Although few people still use them in today’s fast-access climate.

Yes, 20 years ago, there were basically just two options. One was travellers’ cheques. And the other one was buying the local currency 66 l www.samuiholiday.com

before you went. But today there are many more attractive alternatives.

And whichever you go for personally, we’re all after the same thing: ease of access, security, and the cheapest way to ensure this.

Of course there are other things to consider, too. If you’re heading off for a holiday somewhere in say Europe, then all the systems of banking and cash-access are much more reliable and tightly knit (and thus predictable!) than over here. It’s worth mentioning that the Thai banking system, although on the surface appearing quite ‘normal’, works in quite a different way to what you might expect. And every bank’s interpretation of ‘online banking’ is different, too, ranging in some cases from simply an online balance check, yet with other banks having local and

BEACHFRONT DINING & COCKTAILS RockPool at Kanda Residences is a spectacular beachfront restaurant and bar situated just five minutes from Chaweng international transfer and monitoring systems that are first class. I mention this because if you think you might end up being a regular visitor to Thailand then it’s very much to your advantage to open a basic Thai savings account for future use.

The simplest way by far to access your cash in Thailand is by using an international ATM card linked to your bank account back home – Visa and MasterCard are universal over here. Only a few months ago, even small convenience stores like 7-11 began advertising credit card facilities on purchases of at least 600 baht.

For reservations or more information call +66 77 234 500 www.rockpoolsamui.com Facebook: rockpool.kohsamui Daily high tea from 12pm and happy hour with buy one get one free on selected drinks from 5pm until 7pm.

It should be noted that Thailand is a high-risk area as far as overseas banks are concerned. If you plan on using a card to access cash via an ATM over here, then you must notify your bank beforehand, then telephone later to check your request is on record. Better safe than sorry!

But this is where the ‘cost of cash’ raises its ugly and mostly-hidden head.

Firstly there’s the Thai bank’s charge for accessing an overseas account via their ATM – 200 baht a time. And, bearing in mind that cards used in this way have a daily limit (often around 12,000 baht or so), that 200 baht fee can soon become quite significant. And then nearly every card issued to consumers has a basic fee when used overseas, together with a hidden charge that you don’t see until you get your statement, not to mention poor exchange rates.

And then the choice of what type of card to use. Cross your credit card off the list straight away; it begins attracting interest from the day cash is withdrawn on it. Thus for a long time debit cards were the way to go.

But today the advantage of a prepaid card has proved its worth. Once you’ve loaded up the card with money online, you can use it just like a debit card in shops, bars, restaurants or any venue that accepts the card. You can also withdraw cash from an ATM. You can’t spend what isn’t on the card, so there’s no chance of going over-limit, and you can top up the card online or by text while you’re away.

Fees and conditions vary with prepaid cards, affecting how economical they end up being. But take care you don’t get one of the bad prepaid cards that characteristically charge you every time you load the card, spend on it, and withdraw cash. Not to mention that the worst prepaid cards will also charge you an inactivity fee if you leave money on them at the end of your break, and even a fee to close the card down to get your leftover cash back. Spend some time and do your research – you’ll end up unhappy if you don’t!

And so back to the usefulness of having a Thai bank account. It’s far easier than you’d expect; all you need is your passport and about 500 baht. The actual account is free to open, but you’ll need to make a small deposit, and then the bank will want to increase their commission by selling you an ATM cash-card card, too. A tip here is to go for a midrange debit card that has Visa verification: this can be used both online and for purchases outside of Thailand.

And then simply use one of the low-cost money transfer agents (Transferwise, Halo, Moneycorp) to send funds from one of your home bank accounts direct to your Thai account. Unlike a wire transfer (which can take up to14 days to show up over here) this will be in your account in no more than a couple of days. There’s no fee from the Thai end, the cost of sending is typically 1.5%, plus the exchange rate is much better than any other method. And you can also do it online if you need more funds. Good luck!

Rob De Wet

BIJOU BOUJIS

We take a look at one of the most delightful resorts around – Boujis Boutique Resort in Chaweng Noi.

It’s often quite tricky. I mean, how can you know? Fads and fashions come and go. Websites can look really good. But, when it comes down to it, how can you be sure that the resort you like the look of is going to fulfil its promise? If you’re here, on Samui, then you can pop around to check. But if you’re booking from abroad, you need to be certain.

So, of course, you’ll do what everyone else does and turn to the internet oracle. This is where the truth will out! This is the feared and respected TripAdvisor. The only problem here is that sometimes you have to read between the lines a bit; now and then you’ll catch sight of oddities. But, generally, TripAdvisor is a pretty good rule of thumb – after all it’s real people talking about what things are really like, rough edges and all.

And thus be prepared to get all excited when you read what’s being said about Boujis!

I could describe this lovely little resort as ‘boutique’, meaning that it’s comparatively small, is uniquely designed, and is privately owned. But I’m going to go a step further and boldly declare that Boujis is a step up from merely boutique - Boujis is ‘bijou’; a ‘jewel’. And while Samui has more nice little resorts than you can shake a stick at, very few of them are such gems as this one.

Two obvious reasons for this jump out at you right away. The first one is the location. Partly this is to do with the fact that it’s just a few minutes’ drive away from the bounce, bustle and glitter of Chaweng Beach Road, which is literally around the corner. Right away this means Boujis is pleasantly placid, yet right on the edge of Samui’s centre of shopping and nightlife. But that’s only half of the tale, because it’s also situated on the rocky cliffside that makes up this part of the coast. And this means that the outlook and views are stunning.

This part of the coastline gets higher and rockier as it gets further away from Chaweng, but here it’s totally, beautifully, just right. It’s elevated enough to give a vista to swoon over (as when you wake up in the morning and open your eyes to walls of glass that frame this pastel-tinted vista), but not so high up that you can’t get down easily to the water below. And here there are huge slabs of sun-warmed rock perched and twisted every which way, and crystal-clear water that’s just chest-high at the deepest. And with none of the rip-tides and currents you get in Chaweng.

72 l www.samuiholiday.com

www.samuiholiday.com l 73

The second reason is the way it’s all laid out. Boujis has evolved over the years, with two or three ‘villas’ being built to begin with, then several more being tacked onto a new terrace below at a later date, and a few more built after that. This means that the whole site, and its 14 ‘villas’, is whimsically and charmingly embryonic, with irregular steps up and down (often through short tunnels of mature foliage) from one layer to the next. I dare say there are some personality types who will just hate this inconsistency. But for the rest of us it’s an utter fairyland.

But I’m just beginning! Because then there are also the ‘villas’ themselves.

I keep saying ‘villas’ simply because, if I tell it like it is, these are not ‘villas’ in the accepted sense of the word. What you’ve got here are 14 differently-designed, cliffside, self-contained apartments of varying sizes and at differing levels. But, whether one bedroom or two, they all share the identical dream house panorama that’s deeply coded in our genes: we are drawn to them like forgotten memories of a home we might have once had – or actively want! And they’ve all evolved so that, as new ones were built, none of them blocked or interfered with the view from the others. Bijou indeed.

I’m not even going to think of listing each of these sublime ‘apartments’ in detail: you can get that from the excellent website that’s the shell for Boujis. And a visit to their Facebook site will round things off. And make a note that the hugely approachable Resort Manager, David White, answers each of the TripAdvisor comments personally. How many resorts do that?

There’s more! There’s a generously-sized pool. Each villa has a kitchenette, with microwave, fridge, and tea/coffee making .There’s Apple TV complete with Netflix. The villas are cleaned every day.

74 l www.samuiholiday.com

Exclusive Ladies & Gents Custom Tailor & Shoe Maker

Paul’s Fashion was established in 2005.

We are a specialised bespoke tailor for both ladies and gentlemen.

We provide Suits, Shirts, Tuxedo Suits, Dresses, Winter Coats, Leather Jackets, Leather Shoes and Boots for business as well as Casual wear.

Free pickup and delivery services to your hotel anywhere on the island.

Hotel fitting service available if you are too busy with your holiday schedule.

We keep your measurements in our database so you can order in future by mail.

There’s an on-site laundry. You can rent a motorbike. There is a yoga room with sessions five times a week. You can book a Thai massage. And you’re even provided with a phone with preprogrammed emergency numbers, should you ever need it.

And then there’s the whole idea of food and room service. Boujis is right next to one of the island’s best restaurants, Dr Frogs. And there’s an arrangement that there’s a 20% discount for guests here. Or that you can dial for room service (during the restaurant’s opening hours). Dr Frogs is a fine-dining restaurant but, even so, this is yet another plus for Boujis.

Finally, let me give you an insider tip. Shop around for the best price. As the resort is really just getting off the ground, Boujis is often offering promotions. It’s not expensive to start with – not for what you’re getting. But tour agents take their profits. And so the results of a direct email to David White, particularly off-season, might give you a big surprise. He is ever so approachable – as indeed are all the staff at Boujis.

What more can I say? Given a chance I’d go to live there full time, like a greyhound off the line. It’s a jewel in the holiday melee that is Samui. It’s one in a thousand. Boujis is, in fact a jewel.

Bijou Boujis, indeed!

Main Store: Opposite Mc Donald’s, Chaweng Beach Branch: Near Chaweng Regent Resort, Chaweng Beach

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7744 8544. www.boujissamui.com

2016

CERTIFICATE of

EXCELLENCE

Free Pick-up Service, Please Call Mr.Paul : +66 (0) 84 627 3812 E-mail: info@ks.paulsfashion-samui.com www.ks.paulsfashion-samui.com

2017

CERTIFICATE of

EXCELLENCE

FINDING TREASURE

Natural Wing Health Spa and Resort takes a new direction.

Natural Wing first opened in 1999, and was the first spa resort on Samui. Eighteen years later, and having won all the major spa awards, let’s take a look at why they have been so successful and where they plan to go from here!

The idea of the spa resort as a place where you could stay for one or more nights, seriously unwind, relax, detoxify and rejuvenate yourself, was a concept that Managing Director, Khun Wanwalee Tantikarn had been thinking about for some time. Whilst living in Phuket in the 1980’s, she bought some hillside land in Bang Por on the north coast of Samui, with a view to creating her dream in the coming years. Her father was a doctor who understood that there was more to health and healing than just pharmaceuticals. His passion for natural well-being was infectious (excuse the pun) and influenced her to begin her quest.

Natural Wing has built up its repertoire over the years, and Khun Wanwalee has been busy pursuing knowledge and understanding from all the different provinces in Thailand. Today they offer an extensive range of spa experiences. From a 30-minute herbal steam, ozone Jacuzzi, hand reflexology or foot massage to a four-and-a-halfhour inclusive package. Massages include; aromatic oil, reflexology, ancient Thai, herbal compress, sports and hot stone. There is also a range of body scrubs, body wraps and beauty treatments. Add to that, personalised detox and slimming programmes which include before and after blood tests by a qualified doctor, and nutritional advice and information. Packages can include accommodation, especially created spa cuisine and lots of activities such as yoga, meditation, hydro-

78 l www.samuiholiday.com

Welcome to Sa-ard’s Watersports Center on Koh Samui. Where everyday can be an aquatic adventure – above and below the crystal clear blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand.

Join us and discover what r eally makes these islands so very special.

Our brand new catamaran Fountaine Pajot Belize 43 “Kindred Spirit” can comfortably take 15 people on a day trip and sleep 6 people on over-night excursions.

aerobic sessions, educational classes such as cooking (to help you continue your healthy eating habits when you, unfortunately have to leave and return to your normal life), spa treatments and even Muay Thai training by Samart Payakaroon, who is considered to be the Muhammad Ali or Sugar Ray Robinson of Muay Thai.

(Anyone can join his daily training sessions at the gym bearing his name just across the road.)

The latest buzz-word is ‘Wellness’, which according to the World Health Organisation is “a state of complete physical, mental, and social well-being, and not merely the absence of disease or infirmity.” We can achieve this by strengthening the body’s immune system and by trying to reverse any damage caused by environmental chemical overloads. We also need to bring the mind into a state of positive calmness and confidence, enabling us to fulfil our life’s various dreams and ambitions. Together these kinds of changes can allow us to live long and healthy lives. For some people, this is akin to being ‘reborn’. Wellness packages are available to help start changing your mind-set and begin to develop more positive eating, exercising and thinking routines.

Natural Wing has been certified by the Thai Ministry of Public Health, and is the recipient of ‘The Gold Spa Award (Thailand)’.

They have the amazing and champion massage therapist, Khun Oh, who has won many ‘Best Spa Therapist’ awards. I, along with many others I have spoken with, can personally vouch that she is exceptionally good, with sheer magic emanating from

The starboard hull has a double stateroom with ensuite bathroom and living area. There are also two double state rooms in the port hull with a shared bathroom. You’ll also find a large galley and a living area with CD/DVD player and a 28 inch colour TV. All the cabins and living areas are fully air-conditioned.

Sa-ard’s Watersports Center also offers Private Speedboat tours to the beaches and snorkeling destinations of the surrounding islands.

Manager and Skipper is Sa-ard, one of Thailand’s most celebrated windsurfers. He took part in the Olympics 1984 in Los Angeles and 1992 in Barcelona, was a long time member of the Thai National Windsurfing Team, has been Asian Champion and 5 times Gold Medal Winner in the South East Asian Games. You simply could not be in better hands!

her hands! She allows you to feel like you are in heaven - sheer bliss.

Natural Wing has also been recommended by local and international newspapers and magazines and is renowned as a therapist training centre.

Khun Wanwalee is the current President of the Samui Spa Association, the Thai Spa Federation and Vice-President of the Green Island Federation. She works with the government to register spas that pass strict guidelines. The wellness passion inherited from her father has never subsided. She has been instrumental in spreading ‘best practice’ principles across the country, and there are now several other regional spa associations as the result of her drive and perseverance. The aim is to achieve specific standards of quality, cleanliness, ethics and safety across all Thai spas.

Natural Wing uses its own ‘Samui Virgin Coconut Oil’ in many of its treatments, and Khun Wanwalee is behind its production. She likes to source all things locally if possible. So, it’s made from fresh organic coconuts grown on Samui, and cold-pressed without the use of any harmful additives or chemical solvents. This pure, organic and unrefined coconut oil is used in massage treatments and can also be taken internally for maximum health benefits. Khun Oh makes organic handmade soap made from the coconut oil and coconut husk charcoal.

You can find both for sale at the resort and many other spas.

A lot has happened in the last 18 years. Khun Wanwalee never seems to slow down. So determined is she to bring the highest quality of the 80 l www.samuiholiday.com

‘wellness’ and spa experience to everyone, that she is now working alongside other Samui resorts to share the best knowledge, information and training on developing their own spa programs and wellness packages. She has provided programs for the spa at Pavilion Villas and Resort in Lamai, and the latest adventure is at The Treasure, Koh Madsum. This is the only resort on the tiny island of Koh Madsum which lies just 30 minutes by boat from Thong Krut, on the south-west coast of Samui. This is a quiet and idyllic island with beautiful beaches, clear turquoise blue water and no roads or traffic. The perfect place to relax into a wellness or detox program with no distraction. Try the chlorophyll sunbath (it includes lying under huge banana leaves) or the sand therapy (I’ll leave that to your imagination) among others.

Khun Wanwalee, Khun Oh and the rest of the team have truly excelled in their chosen field, and continue to work tirelessly to create exceptional and outstanding spa and wellness experiences at Natural Wing Resort and Spa and elsewhere. They are fantastic ambassadors and teachers.

If you are serious about your health and wellbeing and you’re looking to find a spa, detox or wellness program, then you should definitely choose this award-winning team to provide it for you. Enjoy finding your treasure!

Karan Ladd

_____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7760 2111 or 0 819 682 796 www.naturalwing.com

HIDDEN GEM, CONCEALED TREATS! Once again we point you at a treasure that’s almost in plain view – Waterline restaurant, right in the middle of Lamai.

Where are you going to go? If you’re staying on the island for more than just a day or so, then it’s guaranteed that there are a few places you will visit. You’ll probably go on a tour that takes in an elephant or two, a waterfall and a mummified monk wearing Ray Bans. You’ll no doubt strain your engine and head up the mountain for some tasty fried rice at a viewpoint. And there are a couple more options, too.

And, as sure as there’s always another day tomorrow, you’ll also be magnetically drawn to Fisherman’s Village. But, really, this is a bit of a trick question.

Because, you see, all these things involve actually going to a place.

Then you come back to your resort again. But what nobody knows or sees are all the totally marvellous spots you go past on your journey.

They are either something you speed past without noticing, or they are cunningly – and very sadly – hidden from view. And this is one of them.

The chances are you’ve passed it a time or two already. It’s a hidden

84 l www.samuiholiday.com

gem. It’s right on the main road in Lamai. It’s a top resort with a quality restaurant. And its name is Manathai Koh Samui.

Manathai is not a name you’ll be familiar with. In fact there are only three other such resorts in Thailand (all of them beach-side) which bear the name of this very forward-looking Thai company. Unlike some groups which stick to a formula or brand identity, the Manathai group enjoy designing or adapting each one according to its location or merits. And so the impressive result is that their resort here on Samui is elegant and styled with a smooth colonial theme. It’s imposing, spacious and thoughtfully laid out, spanning a long U-shape with old cobbled tiles in the wide central parking area, and with the hotel itself sitting at the top end of this. t’s really easy to spot – a Lamai landmark, in fact. Coming from Chaweng the steep hill levels out as it drops onto the flat in Lamai.

You’ll soon pass the big, rounded glass front of the IT Center on your left. And a few moments later you’ll see the broad colonial-style esplanade of Manathai on your right. You can easily pull in here and park. Directly across the road is a wall. And that’s what you need to go across and check out!

The first thing you’ll see is the pool, framed on either side by low buildings. On the right is an accommodation block. But on the left is a long, spacious, shady, cool modern dining area, open on three sides, in the Thai style; the name of the restaurant here is Waterline. And this is an effortless blend of east and west, with the airy bright Thai openness melded with the simple clean lines of contemporary western décor. This on its own is a subtle subliminal message. And it says, “We’re on the ball. We’re with it. And you’ll get fab food and super service here.”

And they won’t disappoint. The cuisine is excellent, whether it’s a daytime coffee-stop to catch up with your emails (free, fast Wi-Fi) or a leisurely evening excursion to enjoy one of the best dinner menus around. There are various carefully selected and imported items: several cuts of prime imported Australian beef and lamb. The seafood here is also first class. Yes, I know, they all say that: we’re an island and everywhere does seafood. But here there are no less than four kinds of imported oysters, including the legendary French Fine de Claire No. 3, as well as others from Ireland and America, too. Then there’s Canadian lobster, Scottish salmon and an entire supporting cast of similar stars.

But, do you know what? So what! Every foodie story you’re going to read in Samui’s publications is going to say the same thing. Writers here can get away with the same old thing every time: next month there’s a whole new set of readers. But the art of it all – the subtle www.samuiholiday.com l 85

difference between one place and another – is the guy in the kitchen who is cooking the stuff. And the executive chef here is Martin Selby, a long-established and time-served member of our island culinary elite.

And so I asked him what was the best way to cook seafood.

“There isn’t one!” he replied with a grin. “Char-grilled on a barbecue will endow crab or king prawns with that delicious smoky flavour everyone loves . . . even if it’s all mushy inside! And fish you can fry to a crisp with garlic and peppers – or coax it gently by steaming or poaching to bring out the delicate flavours. It’s not about how you cook it. It’s about knowing how to cook it – so that it’s prepared properly and all the flavour and texture is retained. If this isn’t done with sensitivity then it looks good but tastes bland. And that’s not the way I work at all.”

It’s also worth mentioning that Martin was previously engaged at one of Samui’s leading vegetarian restaurants to set up the kitchen and introduce new dishes. And so it comes as no surprise that there are more than the average number veggie offerings here on his menu. And they’re a lot tastier than the average, too.

People have told me (quite a lot of them and on many different occasions!) that they’re a bit wary of going somewhere where there are

86 l www.samuiholiday.com

B a r g e & Te r r a c e

Fine Beachside Dining at The Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine Daily A La Carte and Thai Set Dinner No visit to Samui is complete until you have dined at The Rice Barge & Terrace

Rice Barge & Terrace Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

‘imported delicacies’, as it always works out quite expensive.

Well, there’s a whole new movement afoot that even some 5-star eateries have cottoned on to – value for money. It’s better to charge realistic prices that visitors can afford, even though the quality is amongst the best in the world. And that’s what you’ll find at Waterline.

Plus the fact that what you see on the menu is the inclusive price; there is no VAT to add and the tip is at your discretion, not included in the bill. 300-gm char-grilled Aussie tenderloin served with baked truffle mash and grilled asparagus for 950 baht?

Head for Manathai and venture behind that wall to Waterline.

Concealed treats? Most certainly!

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7745 8560-4. www.manathai.com/samui Nora Buri's Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

STONE SNAKES

AND CLAY CHARACTERS The dramatic world of Wat Sila Ngu.

It’s gone in a flash. All you see is a temple gate as you drive past, and it’s all too easy to miss one of the island’s most intriguing temples. But it’s well worth stopping and spending some time here. It’s easy to get to, as it’s on the ring-road just past Rocky’s Resort, before you get to Ban Hua Thanon. Wat Sila Ngu is far from being a run-of-the-mill temple. Just translating the name from Thai adds a sense of the dramatic: ‘sila’ means stone, and ‘ngu’ means snake. Yes, that’s right - Stone Snake Temple. As you go round the grounds, you’ll see it really does live up to its name: snakes a-plenty have been carved here, and stand guard over the entire area.

Once inside the main gate, you’ll find a grassy area, usually deserted, where you can easily park. You probably won’t even see many people here. A huge tree stands guard with a canopy of spreading leaves and a swathe of coloured ribbon around its base, signifying that it’s sacred. Already, though the main road is just beyond, a sense of peacefulness reigns. The walls of the temple keep out most of the sound from outside.

Parts of the grounds look neglected; the grass is long and some of the buildings clearly could do with some attention and upkeep. It might seem as if the temple has seen better days. But then comes the contradiction – a very sudden one.

Look over to your right and you’ll see, springing out of that same long grass a magnificent work in progress: a brand new temple that’s nearing its finishing stages. It’s a deep red clay colour of such uniformity that it may seem quite unreal when compared to the colours of the other temple buildings. But that’s only because it has yet to be painted, both inside and outside. The work here has been going on for years, and although the scaffolding has come down, the temple itself remains unfinished. It’s cost millions of Baht so far, and the financial end is still not in sight.

www.samuiholiday.com l 89

Despite the arresting sight of the building, visitors seem a little shy of stepping inside. Perhaps it’s because the temple is unfinished and might be dangerous inside (it isn’t), or perhaps because it looks as if at any minute a crowd of painters will surely arrive. But once you do go inside – and you’re welcome to do so, as long as you are correctly attired – you won’t be disappointed. Unless you’re an avid temple-goer, then chances are you’ll never have seen anything quite like the interior. Your eyes will have to get used to the darkness – there are no lights left on inside the building – but even before your eyes have adjusted, faces will appear to be forming wherever you look. Your eyes aren’t tricking you either: some hundred or so figures have been sculpted so that they are half emerging from the walls.

You’ll see whole bodies that appear to wresting themselves out of the clay walls. Most people go silent when they see this. It’s definitely awe-inspiring.

If you’re a little familiar with Buddhism, then you’ll recognize many key scenes from The Buddha’s life, and that the characters depicted on the walls

90 l www.samuiholiday.com

Nora Beach Samui Holiday July-August 2016

Fine Beachfront Dining serving Thai, Seafood & International Cuisine.

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North Tel: 0 7742 9400 Fax: 0 7742 9498 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com

are all from well-known stories and scriptures. The main Buddha statue at the far end is still, at the time of writing, covered in plastic wrapping – no doubt to protect it until the building is finished.

Outside you’ll see the already completed hall, and a roof decorated with ‘cho-fa’ or sky-tassels. You may wonder what these tapering finials signify, and it’s anyone’s guess. Nobody actually knows.

Although they are so common, there’s no record of why they came into existence. Interestingly, each and every part of a Thai temple has a significance but the cho-fa are an exception and remain forever mysterious. To Western eyes they appear very exotic, and if you go to Angkor Wat, you’ll see exactly the same form – they have remained more or less unchanged for over seven centuries. Khmer in origin, they became popular in Thailand, and are today considered a part of the nation’s heritage.

www.samuiholiday.com l 91

The rest of the temple grounds are equally worth exploring, and even if not so arresting, you’ll find dozens of instances of Thai culture - more than you would usually at a temple. Towards the sea, you’ll find a chedi or pagoda, a Thai spire which is thickly covered in gold paint, and is a place of worship for those living locally. It holds Buddha relics that were brought to Samui by monks, following a journey to Sri Lanka.

Close by, a staircase leads down to the sea. The steps are flanked by statues of two enormous gold cobras with their heads rearing up, as if to protect the temple from the sea. The beach here is a mix of sand and softlyrounded boulders and looks out over Ban Hua Thanon in the distance.

It’s also a place of burial and you’ll see spire-like monuments clustered together in a small garden. Some of the monuments have photographs of the deceased, adding a poignant note to the cemetery. You’ll also

92 l www.samuiholiday.com

find an old tree here which grows over a niche in the rocks. It’s a consecrated spot and home to some small statues. In Thai culture, when a Buddhist statue has become old or broken, it can’t just be thrown away, but needs to be placed with others, in a special spot.

You’ll see such collections at every temple on Samui.

Despite the tranquillity of the grounds and the slow feel of this temple, Wat Sila Ngu is a place where there’s a lot going on – more than you’d ever think if you simply glimpse it as you speed by. Come back in a few months, or a year or two’s time and maybe you’ll find whole parts of it will have changed, but you can be sure of one thing – its silent stone guardians will still be in place.

Dimitri Waring

CLIFF TIP TOP There are lots of good restaurants on Samui, but only a few that are excellent. We explore a local legend – The Cliff.

What’s it all about? I mean, why is it that one place works but another one doesn’t? How can you have a restaurant open up that has all the right things and does all the right things, and yet it sinks slowly out of sight? Well the answer to that is . . . it’s missing something! Yes, that’s kind of obvious. But it may be something subtle and hard to outline.

Such as the specific location. Or perhaps a combination of things – the location combined with the view and the décor. Or something as simple as the personality of those in charge. But whatever these elusive elements may be, The Cliff has had them all together, and in just the perfect blend, right from the start.

In fact, this excellent restaurant has been collecting accolades ever since it opened, back in 2004. During this time it’s picked up the Thailand Tatler ‘Thailand’s Best Restaurants’ award – a guide that has become a trusted companion for gourmands living in Thailand – no fewer than eight times (and with the first of these coming right after it had opened) together with the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for the last three years in a row. The team here have managed to get everything just right. But it’s not just about accolades and awards; the proof is that the restaurant has two sittings every evening, bookings are essential, and if you want a table on the outside terrace you’ll need at least three days’ notice!

You’ll probably get a good image of the location from the photos on these pages. But suffice it to say it’s a real dream. Ambiance has a lot 96 l www.samuiholiday.com

SAMUI’S BEST DETOX Luxury Living Magazine Awards 2015

HERBAL DETOX & WEIGHT LOSS

3 Programs

Detox Weight Loss Ultimate Detox

for 7, 14, 21 or 28 days DETOX TO GO!

Buy the program and take it with you Or stay with us and do the program Buy online or at our centre starts from thb 9,000 for 7 days Master Herbalist handcrafted organic herbal formulas Potent & effective • Easy and simple to do Colonics-free • Lose 2-5kgs in just 7 days 'Samui’s Best Detox' – Lifestyle Magazine Feb. 2016 “Our favourite Detox Centre - TATLER May 2015 Read all our media reviews online

Start your journey to better health and vitality now...

www.TheSourceSamui.com info@sourcesamui.com

For taxi: 179/12 ËÁÙ‹ 4 µÓºÅ ÁÐàÃçµ ÍÓàÀÍ à¡ÒÐÊÁØ ¨Ñ§ËÇÑ´ ÊØÃÒÉî ¸Ò¹Õ The Source

Herbal Detox & Weight Loss Centre 179/12 Moo 4, Lamai, Koh Samui (near Tesco Lamai) Mobile: +66 (0)89 0679 856

to do with location, particularly in a tropical setting where most people opt to eat either outdoors or, at least, somewhere with an open-sided balcony. Quite a few places can claim this. But here there’s a real seascape, with a rocky cove to the right, and the full sweep of Chaweng Bay to your left – plus there’s a lovely landscaped pathway that descends down the massive rocks to the sea below.

There’s another plus, too, and it’s that The Cliff is located on the main ring-road in Chaweng Noi, just a little way out of Chaweng itself, and on the lofty hillside cliffs that form a natural viewpoint on the road to Lamai. It’s extremely accessible, and with plentiful parking as you pull into the deeply-inset frontage. Inside it’s all very low-key, with loads of dark wood and warm lighting, but in the daytime it’s cool and shady. Plus there’s a full-width dining terrace perched outside along the top of the cliff.

So far it’s all sounding good; the pedigree, the location, the décor and the general ambiance. But there’s another ingredient in the recipe for success at The Cliff. One thing that always seems to distinguish the signature restaurants of 5-star hotels is the staff.

They’re well-trained, understand the idea of a western standard of service and speak good English: attentive and friendly but without being eager or intrusive. And you’ll find the staff here exactly like

that, having been hand-picked and then serving a probationary period before coming on board full time.

That leaves quite probably the most important worker of all, and that’s master chef Sergio Martelli, who has been running the kitchen here ever since it first opened. He’s originally from Italy, and had previously worked in a number of high-end restaurants in Thailand before taking over the kitchen at The Cliff. He’s an open and friendly man with no pretentions, and is often to be seen outside talking to his guests. His specialty is Mediterranean cuisine and, naturally, his Italian dishes are quite superb. His menu has continued to evolve over the years and, as well as a super selection of Italian dishes, is truly international with one of the best selections of seafood that you’ll come across.

There are essentially two elements in the making of any dish; the nature and quality of the ingredients, and then the flair with which these are prepared and presented. Sergio’s love of his art has always inclined him towards high quality products, even before the idea of ‘organic’ produce became popular, and this is reflected in daily shipments of the more exotic fruit and vegetables that are flown in from Bangkok. Much of the seafood is bought each day from the local markets, as you’d expect.

The more delicate items, such as the Atlantic lobsters and oysters are shipped-in live, and kept in tanks. But Sergio’s top creation here is most undoubtedly the ‘Seafood Platter for Two’ which runs to Atlantic lobster, king scallops, New Zealand mussels, calamari, prawns and fish, all of which comes with a big serving of Spanish rice.

Unlike some resort eateries where the in-house guests nibble very sparingly during the daytime, The Cliff is constantly busy all the way through from when it opens at midday up until to the last dining orders

KAYAKING Explore the caves and beaches of the Angthong National Marine Park Offices located behind Bondi Pub in central Chaweng and on Chaweng Lake Road opposite Lake View For reservations please call 0 7730 0615 or 0 878 866 097

www.bluestars.info

from the kitchen at 10:00 pm. For daytime grazing, the range of chef’s salads is exceptional. And Sergio makes his own pasta and sauces fresh each day. Also popular during the day are such appetisers as the calamari fried in garlic butter or the New Zealand mussels in a creamy white wine sauce or the mouth-watering Parma ham with mixed salami, salad, marinated vegetables, olives and French bread.

But it’s the evening dinner menu which really hallmarks The Cliff as one of the top places to visit, especially bearing in mind that the cuts of steak here are flown in from Australia super-chilled and not frozen, likewise the lamb chops from New Zealand, so you can be assured they haven’t lost any flavour and tenderness during their journey.

And then there are the wines. There’s a showpiece cellar here with around 150 labels, and most of them mid-range and up. Wine in Thailand is classed as a luxury and doesn’t come cheap. But then nothing here at The Cliff is a compromise in any way – yet another reason for its success and why it’s still tip-top after all these years!

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7744 8508. www.thecliffsamui.com

EXTOLLING THE GOOD LIFE Impiana Resort Chaweng Noi is just the kind of place you return to, again and again.

“See you again soon!” is definitely not an empty phrase when you hear staff saying it to guests at the Impiana Resort. For a start, the resort is a family-oriented kind of place, where staff actually get to know the guests, and very often it’s a relationship that deepens over the years. That’s because the Impiana has many, many repeat guests. People love coming back here – time and time again. This isn’t the case with every hotel, but guests here are keen to book again. Many stay for long periods – seven weeks is the record – and guests have been known to spend each holiday here for a decade or longer.

So what makes the Impiana so attractive? For a start there’s the location.

It’s in Chaweng, on the island’s most popular beach, but just to the south, in an equally beautiful area but one that’s far less built up. A tiny headland just to the north means that the beach is far less frequented, yet the town itself is just a couple of kilometres away. The best of both words? Absolutely. And then just behind Impiana, imposing green hills rise to vertiginous heights and provide a further tropical feel. Plenty of guests just stay on or around the beach in the daytime, and at night venture out into the town, have a great night out and return to the hush of the resort to sleep undisturbed. It’s a winning combination, one that draws families and romantic couples, as well as groups of friends.

Neither too big nor too small, the 96-room Impiana has been operating for the last 17 years. In that time it has gone from strength to strength, with upgrades and improvements whenever needed. It’s currently run by General Manager, Rodan Ivan, a veteran when it comes to Asian hotels; he’s worked in Vietnam and Myanmar as well as Thailand, and brings with him a wealth of expertise.

2 Sp dis 0% a cou tr ea nt tm en ts on

Our Siam Ten Senses Treatment focuses on the ten main senses in human body.

Restoring body systems and improving the balance.

Green Resort Green Spa Detoxifying and Slimming Program Healthy Thai Restaurant Spa Management Natural Wing Health Spa & Resort 11/5 Moo 6, Maenam, Koh Samui, Thailand Tel: 0 7760 2111, 0 7760 2112 Fax: 0 7744 7243 Mobile: 0 819 682 796 Email: info@naturalwing.com, www.naturalwing.com

The people behind Impiana are dedicated to bringing all their guests the best times possible. They represent a brand that’s very popular in this part of Asia, simply called Impiana. It’s a Malaysian-run concern, a strong brand but one that’s always personable – definitely not a faceless corporate one.

The resort makes good use of space with generously-sized rooms which feature sophisticated en-suite bathrooms and luxuriouslyappointed living spaces that put guests in the mood for some serious relaxation. Whether you’re sitting out on your balcony (most rooms look out towards the sea) or cooling off in the aircon interior, the accommodation is always a delight. And it’s not expensive either – prices here represent extremely good value, even when it comes to an opulent suite right by the ocean.

SCL International School International Education from Pre-school to Secondary Educating the Mind Nurturing the Soul



 Small classes  Individual education plans Fully qualified teachers  A family atmosphere

With these qualities, it’s not hard to see why the children at SCL are achieving so much A warm welcome is extended to anyone who wishes to visit the school

Both restaurants at Impiana offer a wealth of truly delicious food.

Sabai offers breakfast till 10:30 am and then lunch and dinner.

It’s ideal for all-day dining as it’s so close to the sea. Highly recommended are Executive Chef Khun Mas’ signature creations – they’re truly mouthwatering. The menu contains enough variety so that everyone will find something that they like.

At the other restaurant, Tamarind, you can enjoy the best of Thai food, and if you’re unsure what you’d like then there’s a choice of two set dinners. Both consist of Thai favourites, for example, Tom Kha Gai and a massaman curry. It’s great if you’re here in the evening and are looking for a special dinner in a quiet ambience.

SCL International School

127/40-50 Moo 3 Maret, Lamai, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84310, Thailand Phone: 0 7741 8789 Mobile: 0 810 910 714 Email: emma@sclinternationalschool.com www.sclinternationalschool.com

There’s also the beautiful Beach Bar & Top Roof Beach Bar right on the sands where you can enjoy drinks or have food from either of the restaurants brought to you.

affordable, but with no compromise on quality. Open to guests and nonguests alike, a simple visit to Swasana is enough to lighten your step and your mood.

For a really romantic treat, you can ask for a private chef to cater for you and your beloved. Many couples opt for a private pavilion on the beach with 200 candles placed on the sands. It’s part of a package that’s decidedly memorable, not least for the excellent food. Alternatively you can have the dinner on the rooftop of the beach bar, which will be reserved just for you.

On entering the spa, you’ll find a longish list of treatments available.

You’ll also find a steam room where you can soak up the heat, while the herbs that have been added help de-toxify the body and relieve stress.

By the way, an important feature at Swasana is that before the massage begins, you choose the level of intensity of the pressure to be used.

There are a variety of massage styles for you to choose from and they’re guaranteed to soothe and relieve physical tension. Highly recommended is a very blissful Balinese massage.

The resort has culinary themes for every day of the week. Monday is Thai Night by the beach, featuring dishes from all around the country to the accompaniment of traditional Thai music. Tuesday is Ocean Promotion, and on Wednesday it’s Catch of The Day with freshly grilled seafood.

On Thursdays, head to Tamarind restaurant and take a seat for Steak Night, with music from guest saxophonist Yils Biox. While on Fridays it’s Viva la Pasta, with all kinds of pasta on the top roof of The Beach Bar. When the weekend comes, you can enjoy the Saturday night Barbecue Seafood Buffet on the beach, with music from DJ Jenya Kak Jenja (who also spins the tunes on Monday and Friday afternoons from 1:30 pm to 3:30pm) as well as a fire show. Finally, on Sunday, there’s the Wine & Dine set menu.

After food, drink and the beach, there’s still more to celebrate at Impiana when it comes to having good times. Blissful indulgence is the name of the game at the resort’s Swasana Spa, and a session here leaves you feeling refreshed and ready for the world again. Prices are also very

104 l www.samuiholiday.com

Incidentally, all the masseuses at Swasana have to undergo a year’s training and practice before they can qualify. The spa is very much integral to the Impiana brand, and training and treatments are all decided upon in the brand’s headquarters in Kuala Lumpur.

Life at Impiana is a happy combination of the unhurried and the pleasurable. Turn up here for lunch, dinner or a massage and you’ll find yourself soon relaxing while the attentive staff look after you. Better still, come and stay here and you’ll enjoy full-time pampering that will leave you with many happy memories.

Dimitri Waring

_____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone: 0 7744 8994. www.impiana.com

THE CUTTING EDGE

Everyone buys souvenirs and gifts on holiday – but getting to know Paul’s Fashion will give you a very serious alternative!

108 l www.samuiholiday.com

So here you are. You’ve spent a year looking forward to it. And now you’re finally here, on Samui. It’s the best feeling in the world – busy with lots of shopping when you want it, and miles of white sand and blue sea when you don’t. It’s up to you if you sleep all day or not! But, sadly, there’s a countdown. And in those last few days those little gifts and things to take back home start to take over. But that’s all part of it, so it’s still good fun. However, there’s something else you need to know.

Thailand is not only the place to buy Jim Thompson silks and 99% pure gold. It’s also one of the very few places in the world where you can buy hand-tailored and fitted clothing at a fraction of the cost back home – please keep reading!

Keep reading? Yes. Because if you haven’t already done this – and you don’t know about it – then you’re probably either nervous about the idea, or you’ve tried it and had a bad experience. And, yes, as with many aspects of a nation which looks to tourists for its commerce, there are a few bad apples which spoil it for the rest. But just check this for yourself on TripAdvisor. Key-in ‘Paul’s Fashion Samui’. The results are nothing short of completely astonishing. Even going back to 2013, there are no bad reviews. No problems, no complaints, and not even one negative comment. As Paul Subedhi (the partner and spokesman for Paul’s Fashion) says, “We have a cast-iron guarantee – if you are not happy with the final product then you pay nothing.”

Yeah right. But they all say that, don’t they? Indeed they do. But just look at those TripAdvisor comments – and remember TripAdvisor is merciless; it only takes one spoiled kid and there’s a poor rating, often over nothing much at all. And then, when Paul tells you there has never been one person asking for a refund ever since they opened in 2005, you might be inclined to believe it.

Your problem is that you don’t know what to expect. Quite probably you’ve never had hand-tailored clothes before; they’re a luxury and

expensive. You’re worried about being inexperienced and getting taken for a ride. So let’s just talk you through the process of getting, say, a formal business (two-piece) suit made – and this is quite an eye-opener by itself. (But keep in mind the same process applies to a huge range of women’s wear, both formal and informal.)

You’ve got a general idea of what you want. You more-or-less know the style, and that you want a dark fabric. So you tell one of the three partners what you are looking for. From this point on you’ll get individual attention and deal only with this tailor. He’ll go through a whole series of books and catalogues with you until you decide on what you want. (But, of course, if you have already found the exact style and can give him a picture, then that saves time.)

Then you have to choose the quality. At Paul’s Fashion there are just two: ‘Premium’ and ‘Premium Plus’, with the ‘Plus’ being pure cashmere that’s unblended with any other material; plus there’s also a whole range of linens for summer wear. Then you’ll get to see samples of the fabric; there are so many in the shop that it’s hard to pick just one, but there are also quite a few items made up and displayed on mannequins, which helps a lot. And having got this far then it’s on to details, like how many buttons, what type of vents, the pocket style, lining material and so on. And then you’ll spend another 30 minutes being measured in detail.

With a two-piece suit, the focus is mainly on the jacket. So when you go back you’ll have the trousers plus a cut and semi-stitched jacket ‘template’ waiting, that’s been made to your measurements. And now this is carefully adjusted and fitted to you, while you bend and stretch and sit and twist. And then the third stage is that you’ll go back in a day or so when the trousers are complete and the jacket is 95% finished. This is the final fitting. With the majority of other tailors you won’t get this third fitting, and this is what makes everyone so happy here. Now there are the tiniest of final adjustments, and even if it means re-machining one seam, it’s not over until you are completely satisfied.

www.samuiholiday.com l 109

And here’s the even better news. Paul recommends that you make the first visit to his shop in Chaweng (which is more or less opposite the main McDonald’s) so you can spend time looking through the fabrics. After which the further three fitting can happen wherever you’re staying. He’ll come to you. And he’ll also bring the finished items back to you too, cleverly packed so that they’ll take up minimum space in your baggage.

And the time scale? Well, he works in association with a staff of more than 40 pattern cutters and machinists. So, if need be, the time from your first visit to the finished garments can be very fast indeed!

“But we also create a great many women’s items, too” Paul explained.

“From formal business suits to cocktail wear, in summer or winter fabrics, in quality cashmere or satin, silk, chiffon or pure cotton. And another thing. People come in for their first garments and like them. But they have to go back home. So, often they ask us to make them another suit, and we’re all geared-up to mail it to them. We keep customers’ patterns for four years. And many times we’ll get an email order for customers who are abroad but who want another garment made-up, and that’s no problem!”

110 l www.samuiholiday.com

EXPERIENCE SIGNATURE CHAR GRILL DINING AT ITS BEST. Dining on an al fresco deck on the west end of Fisherman's Village, overlooking our charming Lily Pond garden and shoreline infinity pool. Savour fresh seafood and tender meats grilled to perfection, enhanced by tableside preparations and expert salt guru seasonings.

Every day for lunch and dinner 12.00 noon – 10.30 pm For reservations or more information, please contact our Guest Service Centre at +66 77 428 300 or email bophutsamui@anantara.com.

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com

Full Moon

Fisherman’s Village

The cost? Depending on the material a quality fitted cashmere wool two-piece business suit works out at about 8,000 baht. The payment is 50% of this in advance and the rest when everything is finished – and a refund of your initial payment unless you’re completely satisfied. But that’s never, ever happened. Which is no doubt because Paul’s Fashion is at the very cutting edge of Samui’s bespoke tailors!

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ For more information, telephone 0 7741 3932 or 0 846 273 812. www.ks.paulsfashion-samui.com

Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort 99/9 Moo 1, Bophut Bay, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84320 Thailand T +66 (0) 77 428 300-9 F +66 (0) 77 428 310 E bophutsamui@anantara.com

ELITE VOLUNTEERS In an emergency, Samui Rescue are on the scene within minutes.

If you’ve spent any length of time on Samui you’ll know that there are few roads here. The island has a 52 kilometre-long ring-road with a few other roads that feed into it, some major, but mostly not. Driving on them might appear easy, unless you have a very professional eye; everything looks sunny and tranquil on the surface with (mostly) polite, helpful drivers and rarely a honk made in anger, but the island is well in step with the nation’s appalling road safety statistics. Things could be better. At the end of April 2017, a report by The World Health Organization (WHO) stated that 5,500 motorcycle riders die each year in Thailand: 15 deaths daily across the country. These are just the deaths; there are a staggering amount of accidents which will leave one or more people injured, often shockingly so. Thailand is the most lethal country in the world when it comes to motorbikes, the second most for road deaths generally. The survey gives reasons for the accidents: sleepy drivers, drunk drivers, low awareness of road laws, and speeding.

Most motorbike fatalities are due to head injuries sustained by pillion passengers, and 75% of road deaths in Thailand involve motorcycles.

114 l www.samuiholiday.com

Fortunately there are five hospitals on Samui and each has ambulances.

However, the injured are most likely to be brought for treatment by a just a single rescue service, all staffed by volunteers. This organization is simply known as Samui Rescue. You may already have seen their vehicles speeding along the island roads, ferrying the injured to hospital.

They are based in Nathon but have various ‘branches’ on other parts of the island, particularly at black spots. This allows them to be first on the scene in 95% of cases. On average they’ll arrive in four minutes.

You may wonder what the appeal of doing this kind of work might be.

The teams, who attend to grisly, traumatizing sights every single day, are tireless in their efforts. Some of them say they’re motivated by a desire to earn good karma. By helping people in this life, they hope to improve their own situation. However, for many years there have been foreign volunteers too – so the karma argument doesn’t really hold good for everyone. Volunteers – there are approximately 300 of them – come from all walks of life, and their only common factor seems to be a desire to

help others. Samui Rescue has provided a completely free service on Koh Samui for well over 20 years now.

Most of the work focuses on helping those involved in traffic accidents, and the majority of these will involve at least one motorbike. Volunteers are often first on the scene, providing basic medical care to those in need, and radioing for more advanced help if needed. Most keep in touch with each other via mobile phone chat lines, and incoming details arrive via radio. They will usually have some idea of what’s awaiting them, but details can be very sketchy. Keeping up with the island’s daily injuries is enormously difficult.

Samui Rescue volunteers work in shifts, their vehicles parked in strategic locations around the island, very often close to black spots. They wait for the radio to come to life and are on their way in seconds. Many have undergone training in basic first aid, but not all have as yet. They would like to receive better training and better equipment too.

They have undoubtedly saved hundreds of lives already, simply by getting victims to hospital in time. Unfortunately, when it comes to many road accidents, there is often little that can be done by anyone. Just to take two examples, documented by Samui Rescue themselves: in a headon motorbike collision, the person wearing a helmet walked away, able to refuse all treatment. The other party, who wasn’t wearing a helmet, suffered head injuries that caused his death. In a similar accident, a man driving at five kph died when he was knocked off his bike and his head hit the ground. The other rider had merely given his bike a glancing blow while driving at some 20 kph. Again, he survived thanks to a helmet. The volunteers never become immune to what they see, and acknowledge that devastating as these accidents are, most could be very easily avoided.

Samui Rescue can be seen as part of other rescue organizations in Thailand which do identical work. Such organizations were initially active in helping the poor bury their dead, but their focus has grown

www.samuiholiday.com l 115

steadily to encompass more or less every kind of rescue work. Volunteers on Samui buy their own essentials, such as uniforms and radios and donate huge amounts of time. Being a volunteer is an arduous experience calling for strength, flexibility and being able to make the right decision in seconds.

They also intervene in domestic accidents of all kinds and in looking for missing people. And then there’s the odd birth too. Recently, a couple were on the way to hospital and were on a narrow country lane in Maenam when the baby decided not to wait. The delivery was successful – Samui Rescue was quickly on the scene.

It’s often dangerous work. Attending to an accident is its own risk.

Imagine kneeling over a victim, who may be in the middle of the road, while traffic manoeuvres around you, less than a metre away. Now add in the factor that it may be night and the accident area may be experiencing a downpour. Visibility will be greatly impaired.

Rescue workers aren’t always called out to car accidents. Often they’re headed to the beach in order to save someone from drowning or take care of someone who has been brought out of the sea unconscious.

Drownings are quite common on Samui, and even the strongest swimmers can find themselves battling against insurmountable currents.

Samui Rescue is there to help out.

Meanwhile you might be wondering how you can help. The best way is to help Samui Rescue cut down on its work. The fewer accidents they have to attend to, the better. If you’re a holidaymaker, please don’t hire a motorbike. Many an experienced motorcyclist who comes to Samui on holiday takes one look at the road and decides not to hire a bike – despite having the experience and the qualifications. If you decide to go ahead, be aware that other motorcyclists will pull out from turnings without looking and also drive on the wrong side of the road. Scary?

You bet. You and your passengers all should wear helmets, even if locals and foreign residents don’t. The list continues. Never ever drink and drive. And equally, drive at a speed that is appropriate for the road

116 l www.samuiholiday.com

B Smart B Smart Sys. Co., LTD has been providing top level security solutions, lighting control systems, CCTV systems, access control, fire alarms and WiFi solutions since 1999.

B Smart has quickly earned the reputation for being one of the most progressive and innovative system integrators in Thailand.

Along with high quality products and a very knowledgeable work force, you can be confident that B Smart Sys. Co., LTD will meet and exceed your expectations.

Hotline: 0 815 631 685 Email: bsmartsys@gmail.com For Taxi: ร้านตั้งอยู่ตรงข้ามโรงแรมนภาใส แม่น้ำ�

If you are looking for something wonderful and different, Zazen restaurant is the place for you to discover. Zazen is truly one of the most romantic and serene beachside dining restaurants on the island. Every night this charming establishment lights up over 100 candles to set the ambiance for you to experience.

again l ove r t l a e v n in lo stau r a Fall Zazen Re at

Tel: 077 425 085, 081 737 8771 Email: fb@samuizazen.com Website: www.samuizazen.com

Invisalign takes a modern approach The Original BriteSmile Centre from to straighten your teeth without using a Hollywood’s Professional Teethbraces, Whitening. series of custom-made aligners created for Oneand Hour you only you.

One Visit One Dazzling Smile Virtually invisible Smooth andnew comfortable Offering other services: Painless dentistry, Removable for depigmentation easy cleaning with laser andEat dental implants, well as a wide range whatever youas want of dental hygiene and care. th,

ing my tee e to straighten ign When it cam s clear: Invisal the choice wa

Bangkok Samui Dental Clinic Open Daily 9.00 - 19.00

Tel: Tel:007742 77429500 9500 Website: Website:www.DentalSamui.com www.samuidentalsolution.com For Taxi: www.samuidentalsolution.com ร้านตั้งอยู่ในโรงพยาบาลกรุงเทพ ถนนรอบเกาะ ตง้ัอยใู่นโรงพยาบาลกรงุเทพ For Taxi: รา้นเฉวง

ถนนรอบเกาะ เฉวง

Asia Travel Asia Travel is the most popular travel agency on Koh Samui. Established 15 years ago, they are well known to provide updated travel information reasonably priced for all international and domestic needs. Their second to none consultancy service will help you with all aspects of long or short stay requirements such as visa, work permit or company registration and finances. Asia Travel is well known for their quality services as mentioned in The Lonely Planet.

conditions – which is often well under the limits imposed. Watch out for patches of sand and anything that might cause you to skid.

Tel: 0 7723 6120, 0 7742 1342 Fax: 0 7742 1185 Email: asiatravel_international@yahoo.com For Taxi: ร้านตั้งอยู่ที่ถนนหน้าทอน

Simply the best

Samui Rescue is always ready to help you and, of course, for free.

But this is one holiday experience you’ll want to avoid – amazing as this service is and the people who run it, 24/7.

Dimitri Waring

_______________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7742 1444.

Private real estate with incredible 180-Degree views The actual view from this house is the picture above. This 4-bedroom house has been built according to European standards on 972 sqm. It is centrally located near Nathon and only 500 metres from the main road in a small, warm and tidy community. Priced very competitively, this house is ideal for couples or young families ready to live in paradise.

Price: 8 Million THB only Tel: 0 819 709 632 Email: asiatravel_international@yahoo.com