May/June 2015

Whoop-la!

The Wharf Samui is a new mall offering shops, restaurants and a whole lot more right beside the sea.

Holy Orders

Do’s and don’ts when visiting a temple.

A Warm Welcome

Editor

Graeme Malley graeme@siammap.com

Graphic Designer Jit-anong Sae-ung - Zign

Photographer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon - Don

Feature Writer Rob De Wet

Feature Writer Dimitri Waring

Feature Writer Natalie Hughes

Feature Writer Alison Stephens

Webmaster

Seksak Kerdkanno - Klauy

Sales & Marketing Director Nipawan Chuaysagul - Ning 0 898 783 891

ning@siammap.com

Financial Director Kasper Bjørk kasper@siammap.com

Managing Director Henrik Bjørk henrik@siammap.com

Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6 Samui Ring Road, Moo 3 Bo Phut, Koh Samui, 84320, Thailand Tel: 0 7742 2201 Fax: 0 7741 3523 E-mail: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com

When you come to think about it, there’s something quite special about the actual size of Samui. It’s not too big and not too small – just the right size to be able to explore during an average length holiday.

If you hire a car, you’ll easily be able to drive around it, and if you’re a long-distance runner, you can cross it from one side to another.

Samui’s a neat kind of a place, with a lot to offer, and if you use your time here well, and have the right information, you can pack a lot into your holiday. Apart from its many, many beaches, the island has plenty of waterfalls, then there’s jungle and mountains a-plenty. You’ll also have the chance to eat extraordinarily well, whether it’s traditional Thai food you love, or international cuisine. Then there’s the nightlife. And whether you’d like a quiet drink or to hit the clubs, then you’re in the right place for that too.

So you can quite easily dip into all that Samui offers. But you’ll quickly find that it’s only that, a dip, the briefest of forays, and that to really get to know the island deep down will take a lot longer. And that’s the other thing about Samui. It may be size-friendly, but it’s actually got so much going on that you really wonder how long it’ll take to see it all. And that keeps many people coming back year after year.

It’s way more than the sum of its parts; the island is guaranteed to beguile even the most indolent of visitors. No matter what your tastes are, you’ll find plenty to enjoy while you’re here.

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Siam Map Company Ltd. 2015

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Choeng Mon

CONTENTS 38

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20 Off to Magical Lands Samui Cultural Center and Fine Arts of Southeast Asia showcases a world of marvels.

30 Super Sa-ard An insight into the workings of Sa-ard’s Watersport Center.

38 Pecking Order The world of cockfighting in Thailand.

44 Amazing Zama Zama Rooftop Kitchen/Bar wows with brilliant food and architecture.

50 Going the Extra Mile Smart Start offers way more than most pre-schools.

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Giddy Up Try your hand at horse riding with Samui Riding Club.

60 Whoop-la!

The Wharf Samui is a new mall offering shops, restaurants and a whole lot more right beside the sea.

66 Changing Faces The face of tourism has been changing – so what’s it all about?

70 Fighting Fit Trying your hand at the national sport of Muay Thai.

76 Panoramic Pinnacle The Ridge wows with its bold architecture and top quality finish.

82 There’s More to Morya Than Meets the Eye Morya Pharmacy stocks thousands of medications – and that’s not all.

86 XD x 4 Samui’s gut-wrenching XD Theater has sprouted another three stunning attractions!

90 Island Cops How the police and the tourist police on Samui are working together for you.

94 Cheers to Skål!

A look at one of Samui’s longest running networking and friendship groups – Skål International.

98 Go in, Go up!

Samui isn’t just sun, sand and sea – there’s a whole other world if you just head inland.

104 Adventuring Up Chaweng is more than just one road – we explore upwards, to Chaweng Bay View and Yupa’s restaurant.

110 Holy Orders Do’s and don’ts when visiting a temple.

118 Onwards and Upwards Nora Beach Resort & Spa Koh Samui has a brand new look.

124 Perfectly Prana One of the best small resorts on Samui has just become delightfully better!

130 Howling at the Moon Karaoke – the drinking man’s passport to dreams of fame and stardom.

136 Safe and Sound A great opportunity to buy a quality apartment – courtesy of X2 and Nautilus.

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Island Insight An overall guide to Samui’s towns, villages, beaches and hotspots.

Samui is an idyllic tropical paradise. A blend of traditional Thai hospitality and remote island life has joined hands with modern traveller expectations. But the towns, villages and interior are home to much more than just luxury resorts, restaurants, bars and retail shops. And whilst the main beaches are recognised as some of the best in the world, there are also secluded coves and magical hideaways around many corners – if you know where to look. And this quick guide will point you in the right direction.

Chaweng

Chaweng’s main beach is five kilometres in length and is lined with 5-star luxury resorts, boutique hotels, budget accommodation and great oceanfront restaurants.

Behind the resorts, the Chaweng Beach Road is filled with restaurants, bars, spas, shops, street stalls and mobile food vendors. The lake sits to the rear of them and is a wonderful place for an early morning walk or jog. Near the southern end of the lake is the Soi Reggae entertainment area which also has two Muay Thai boxing stadiums, a temple guarded by carved monkeys and the huge Laem Din market complex. All manner of fresh produce is delivered here every day and the adjoining Dow Seafood market is a hive of activity from the early hours.

Lamai

Samui’s second most popular beach is around four kilometres long and the waters are perfect for swimming. There’s plenty of choice in accommodation, restaurants, bars, spas and health resorts. It also has a free Muay Thai event every Saturday and just off the Beach Road there’s a children’s water park. Wat Lamai is home to a cultural centre and museum that houses artifacts of Samui life before the advent of tourism. On Sundays there’s a ‘Walking Street’ along part of the Beach Road.

And just outside of Lamai town on the ring-road is the famous Hin Ta-Hin Yai rock formations that has dozens of small local Thai restaurants around it.

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Mae Nam

Nestled on the northern shores of the island, Mae Nam Beach stretches for several kilometres and overlooks the neighbouring island of Koh Pha-Ngan. High-end resorts and beach bungalows are dotted along the coast and many visitors love it for its peacefulness, soft golden sands and wonderful views. It has seven side streets that meander into the mountains: from Soi 1 you can follow the road over the mountains all the way to Lamai; Soi 4 has a ‘Walking Street’ every Thursday from mid-afternoon and also houses an ornate Chinese temple overlooking the beach and a large Buddhist temple set a few hundred metres back from the ringroad; Soi 5 has a tree-top canopy adventure theme park a few kilometres into the hills; there’s a buffalo fighting stadium a couple of hundred metres off the main road between Soi 5 and Soi 6; an early morning market is also in Soi 6; an evening market near to Soi 7; and the world-class Santiburi Golf Course in the hills above Soi 7. There’re dozens of bars and restaurants in Mae Nam, many of which are on side roads that lead down to the ocean. And at the western end of the beach the Lomprayah ferry takes passengers to the neighbouring islands several times a day.

NathoN

This is the island’s main administrative centre and the major ferry port for boats to and from the mainland. There’re some hotels but it’s more a town you would visit for an afternoon rather than stay in. Beside the terminal, there’s a local food market every day from mid-afternoon until late in the evening. Along what is known as the ‘middle road’ there’re old teak shop-houses and small businesses and a ‘Walking Street’ on Saturdays. And on the one-way road that goes through the town there’re dozens of shops and restaurants. Just off the main road there’s an ornate Chinese temple and garden in Soi 4. And near the far end there’s a renowned open-air duck restaurant – just follow the crowds around lunchtime.

Bo Phut

Bo Phut is best known for Fisherman’s Village. It’s a single narrow street that still has authentic wooden houses that Samui folk have lived in for generations. Parts of it have been modernized but it’s still awash with local foods, international restaurants, bars, shops and market stalls. It becomes one huge ‘Walking Street’ every Friday and you’ll find lots of local delicacies that few other restaurants have. Along with small hotels, there’re several 5-star luxury resorts at the far end and the beach curves around a large bay that also overlooks Koh Pha-Ngan.

And small speedboats leave from the village pier heading for the Full Moon parties that take place there every month.

Big Buddha and Plai Laem

The magnificent golden Big Buddha statue that watches over the island from the north-east corner of Samui is one of the first things you see as you fly into Samui Airport. Built on a tiny island (Koh Farn) with a connecting causeway, it’s the most iconic image of the island. Many Thais pray at the temple so dressing and acting appropriately is expected when you enter the site. There’re some very good Thai restaurants and small stores around the temple. It also affords some beautiful views and along the road from it you’ll see another large Buddha image at Wat Plai Laem. Half-way along the road between the temples is a side road that cuts through to Choeng Mon. Down this road there’s access to some quiet secluded beaches, although some of them are through resorts.

Choeng Mon

Choeng Mon lies just 15 minutes or so from the middle of Chaweng but it seems like worlds away. There’s a small town that the road runs through with a couple of dozen restaurants and bars. The beach is a favourite for many locals as it’s quiet, picturesque and safe for swimming most of the year round. There’s every class of accommodation with some old-style beach bungalows at one end. And they all overlook the tiny deserted island of Koh Farn Noi which you can walk out to if the tide is low.

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Bang Rak

In between Fisherman’s Village and Big Buddha is where you’ll find Bang Rak. There’s a few very good resorts and some private villas for rent along the beachfront that stretches around for several kilometres and has stunning views.

Bars and restaurants line the main street and there’re two piers. The one nearest to Big Buddha has daily ferries to Koh Pha-Ngan, Koh Tao and on to the mainland port of Chumpon, from which a VIP bus takes passengers to Hua Hin and on to Bangkok. Start to finish, it’s a 12-hour journey with about half of it on the boat.

Just beside the ferry terminal in Bang Rak is one of the busiest fish markets on the island. Local fishermen drop their catches here and the place is bustling with people all day long. At the other end of town there’s a short-cut into Chaweng on a road called Soi Bond Kai (which the locals refer to as the ‘Ghost Road’).

Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi

The south-west part of the island is known as the ‘Virgin Coast’. It’s largely unspoiled with lots of secluded bays, although most of the shoreline tends to be rocky. The west coast overlooks the famous ‘five islands’ and some of the closer islands of the Angthong National Marine Park (which is a perfect getaway for a day’s boat trip excursion). In this part of the island there’re some hotels, private villas for rent, up-market and local restaurants and several temples of note, including two that house a mummified monk. A second car ferry terminal is located in Lipa Noi and, like the one in Nathon, boats to and from Donsak on the mainland arrive and depart every hour from 5:00 am until 6:00 pm (check for details). And inland on the island’s main ring-road there’re several large waterfall sites and a safari park with elephant trekking, animal shows and adventure tours. Further along, next to the Ford and Mazda dealers is a new Butterfly and Insect Kingdom Park.

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Hua Thanon

This predominately muslim village is home to the descendants of some of the island’s earliest settlers. There’s still a thriving fishing fleet and fish market and a natural coastline that’s survived the ravages of time. Just after the village (coming from Lamai) you can turn off the ring-road to the left and signs will direct you to the nearby Tiger Zoo, Aquarium and Sea-life Show, the Butterfly Farm, the Snake Farm and the local Rum Distillery.

Thong Krut

With its brightly coloured fishing boats and backdrop of small islands to the one side, and coconut plantations to the other, Thong Krut is a picturesque little village.

Located in the southwest corner of the island, this is where you’ll come if you’re after a long-tail boat to take you to the nearby islands of Koh Tan and Koh Matsum.

Lining the shore you’ll find a selection of simple restaurants offering Thai food, and particularly good seafood, as well as tour operators offering trips to the islands.

The Interior

Samui predominately consists of hills, mountains and coconut plantations. And few visitors make the time to appreciate its hidden beauty. One way to do so is to take the turning into Mae Nam Soi 1. A new road has recently been constructed that goes over the mountains all the way to Lamai. The drive is only about 20-25 minutes over 15 kilometres with a couple of stopping off areas that offer fabulous views. Another way to really get the full picture of Samui is from Tar Nim’s Magic Garden at the top of one of the island’s highest peaks. Built during a 25-year period by a local farmer the stone statues in the garden were sculpted by hand and sit over 2,000 feet above the beaches below.

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OFF TO MAGICAL LANDS

Samui Cultural Center and Fine Arts of Southeast Asia showcases a world of marvels.

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Most guide books barely mention the island’s south and west coasts; they’re much less developed compared to Chaweng or Lamai. Everyone agrees that they’re the most traditional parts of Samui; with many people still living just as they did decades ago, relatively untouched by the busier world of tourism to the north. If you’re looking to spend some time taking in the beautiful coasts and unspoiled areas of Samui, you’ll want to head this way. And if you do, it’d be a pity to miss out on one of the most amazing, yet little known sites of Samui - Dusit Dhewa, or the Samui Cultural Center and Fine Arts of Southeast Asia.

It sounds as if it could turn out to be some dusty old museum, and you might feel a little put off by the title. Don’t be. For a start, it’s mostly a vast garden, and secondly it’s intriguing enough for anyone of any age to enjoy spending some time here. You don’t need to be a student of fine art to appreciate the treasures here.

It’s set in a very tranquil spot, and most people stumble across it purely by chance. It’s completely unexpected. Drive along the small country lane and a decorated wall appears. Then a few yards away an enormous entrance arch beckons. It’s like something out of an extravagant film, and is completely eye-catching. Steps lead up to the arch but it’s impossible to see what’s beyond. And there’s not much around to tell you what this place is. And if you come on certain nights, you’ll find the entrance is lit up by flaming torches, with stone serpents spitting fire, and dancers

in traditional costumes cavorting on top of the walls. But no matter what time you come here, you’ll probably be so taken with the decorated arch that you may well miss the sign at the side announcing that this is the Lipanoi Cultural Center.

Is it worth a visit? Definitely. Inside there are many, many surprises. It can feel a little intimidating approaching the entrance – it feels like a magical place. And unless you’re a very old hand at South-East Asian architecture and statuary, you’ll find the entire site almost bewilderingly exotic. You may feel you’ve stumbled across some ancient religious site when you first glimpse Dusit Dhewa; everything is in stone, and it has the look of a place that’s been here for decades, if not centuries. More about that later. To get in you have to pay a very small entrance fee at the hut close to the entrance. Then you go up the stairs to find yourself high above a stone passageway which is filled with deities carved in stone, while a cascade of water splashes down an incline immediately in front of you.

A wall at the end blocks the view but tempts you to step around it, and once you do, you’ll find yourself in the beautiful semi-wild gardens of Dusit Dhewa. The grounds range into the distance beyond with a stream winding through their heart. A rope bridge with wooden slats leads across towards a peacock enclosure where you can feed the birds and admire their plumage.

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Even in the heat of the day, the gardens are a cool and shady place to be. There’s lots of water around giving the whole place a pleasant feel. You might by now be thinking that the cultural centre has sprung up around existing statues and buildings, but this isn’t the case at all. Just a few years ago this was just jungle – nothing faintly remarkable about it. The land belonged to Khun Theerachart, also known as Khun Chart, who was born on Samui and grew up here. A lasting love of art made him want to turn his land into something quite special. He started making casts of South-East Asian statues and populating the terrain with them, adding ever more to the outdoor collection. And so it’s continued ever since, and is something that probably won’t ever be completed. He has drawn on statuary and art from all round the region, and put them together in one spot. The result is, to put it simply, amazing. Many visitors find it hard to believe that Dusit Dhewa isn’t a historical site.

It’s definitely not a commercial enterprise for Khun Chart, but is born of sheer passion. Only recently he’s started charging the small admission fee, and the grounds now have a coffee shop, but it’s not a money-making venture.

At Dusit Dhewa, you’ll also find a Burmese-style pavilion, a little like a pagoda, and a hall filled with all kinds of dancing costumes and accessories. Many of the headdresses have been made by Khun Chart himself, and you’ll also find embroidered cloths that are wound round the dancers’ bodies, as well as jewellery worn by Thai and Burmese dancers.

A small house is filled with more artwork, notably a panel showing Vishnu, asleep, watched over by a seven-headed naga.

The frieze is beautifully lit and the material is of an unblemished white. You might think it’s plaster, but according to Khun Chart it’s a special mix that’s been in use for centuries. “We take powdered rock and add white sand and ox skin that’s been dried in the sun. The mix also requires brown and red sugar and tissue paper. It needs to be pounded for eight hours. It’s a tradition that goes back a long way – a very long way.” Imagine the dedication required to do that. Although Khun Chart says that these days you can use a machine to do the pounding! Asked what the point is in having such a labour-intensive material, he says, “Well, nothing else really compares; it lasts a long time – about 900 years.”

chef’s dinner specials

Overseeing the culinary team at Hansar Samui, born and raised in Montreal, Canada, Chef Stephen began his culinary career at the famed restaurant Les Halles in Quebec, one of the most outstanding independent restaurants in Canada.

A unique opportunity to be the Private Chef to His Majesty the King of Jordan became a turning point in his career and he spent the next two years catering for the Royal Family.

Stephen spent the next five years at the Lebua at State Tower Bangkok (known as the Dome) and within a few years became the Executive Chef at the Sirocco restaurant.

At our beachfront H Bistro restaurant, Stephen has created a unique epicurean experience for guests where they can appreciate the authentic taste of French Mediterranean Cuisine, in addition to a Thai menu.

Khun Chart wants to preserve the traditional arts of Siam, and teaches some techniques himself. If you ring him three to five days beforehand, he can put on a workshop where you can learn the art of colouring and applying gold leaf. Normally classes have between five and ten people, and they’re immense fun to do. He also accepts classes of school children who wish to visit and to learn about art. Again, it’s all great fun and children have a great time.

Stephen Dion “an epicurean experience one shouldn’t be missed”

H Bistro at Hansar Samui 101/27-28 Moo 1, Bophut, Koh Samui +66 77 245 511 www.hansarsamui.com

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Dusit Dhewa is located in Lipa Noi on a small coast road. It’s easy to get to. At the big junction two kilometres south of Nathon turn towards the sea and head in the direction of Koh Samui Hospital. Turn left at the 7-Eleven and continue until you see the temple. Drive through and you’ll see the cultural center, about 200 metres beyond.

Definitely bring your camera if you come for a visit; you’re guaranteed to end up with some of the most exotic shots of your time on Samui.

The centre is very popular with wedding photographers, too, who come here for the hauntingly beautiful backdrops, but whatever your reason for visiting, you’ll be rewarded by the some of Samui’s most amazing sights.

Dimitri Waring

____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone Khun Theerachart on 0 611 872 599.

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SUPER

SA-ARD

An insight into the workings of Sa-ard’s Watersport Center.

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Here’s an interesting fact: a recent survey showed that 62% of our visitors didn’t go off the island during their stay. And that’s surprising – with Samui being in the middle of a great big ocean of blue. There’s just so much to do on the water, from windsurfing to parasailing, not to mention easy access to jet skis and scuba diving. And then there are all sorts of things connected with boats; fishing trips, plus a ton of choices when it comes to hiring or cruising, too.

And like so many things, when you start to look around there’s a confusing variety of choices. Even scanning the internet just seems to add to the muddle, with so many sites being out of date or having conflicting info. And so, just like with such things as elephant treks or jungle safaris, it’s a safe bet to head towards someone who’s long established. A set-up that’s long since learned from experience and now has everything sorted.

There are probably a couple like this on the island. But when it comes to experience, reputation and reliability, there are few to compare with Sa-ard’s Watersport Center.

And there’s one man who’s got something to say about that! He has a pedigree that makes people sit up. He’s a champion windsurfer who has represented Thailand in this discipline, taking the SEA Gold in Singapore firstly in 1983, and then again in 1985, 1987 and 1989. And he also took part in the 1984 Olympic Games in Los Angeles and the 1992 Olympics in Barcelona. His full name is Khun Sa-ard Panyawan – Khun Lek for short. And he, together with his brother, are the faces behind Sa-ard’s Watersport Center.

Reading this, you’d probably think that with such impressive qualifications Khun Lek just jetted to Samui and set up shop. Not so! It was a long haul before he was finally able to realise his dream, back in 1993, when he came to work as the Activities Manager at the famous 5-star Santiburi Resort. He was eventually able to join forces with his brother and buy their first speedboat, with which they ran charters to the neighbouring islands. After a while another boat was added, and then several more of different types. Not surprisingly, Khun Lek also added windsurfer hire and lessons, plus he began to hire-out his vessels. But, with all this nautical potential, he thoughtfully put together a program of tours. And today he’s also knitted-in an element of family fun, with Laser dingy hire, water skiing, plus a big bouncy banana boat. However, above all, the pride of all of Sa-ard’s fleet remains his collection of ocean-going vessels.

Starting with the most compact, there’s the speedy ‘Panyawan’ at 6.2 metres in length. She has two 85 HP engines and a capacity for five people. Then following up is the 11.5 metre speedboat, ‘Natalie’, which can hold up to 25 and has a shower and toilet on board, plus food and drink on request. Both of these boats are available for organised tours around Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao and Koh Nang Yuan and also Angthong National Marine Park. They’re also available for private fishing charters or can also be reserved for transport to and from the Full Moon Party, either on a daily rate or by the hour.

Moving up the scale, ‘Sting’ is a medium-sized cabin cruiser which can easily accommodate 17 passengers, is easy to moor in shallow waters and makes an excellent dive or tour boat. She comes complete

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with a flat screen TV and DVD player, and should you want refreshments or meals on board, you only need to ask. And then there’s the pride of the fleet, ‘Kindred Spirit’ .This sleek 13-metre catamaran is the one you need if you’ve a yen to go touring around the islands for any length of time. Comfortable and able to hold 15 people for day-trips, she also has the facility to sleep six, with one double bedroom in the starboard hull and two more in the other, all with bathrooms. There’s a big, well-equipped galley with hot and cold water, a fridgefreezer, gas cooker and electric oven, and an adjoining living area fitted with a flatscreen TV and entertainment centre. And everything is blissfully air-conditioned.

There are various tours and trips on offer, which together cover every aspect of a life on the ocean waves around Samui. It’s tempting to list them here – but they’re laid-out clearly enough on Sa-ard’s website, if you’re interested. Rather, it’s better to dig a little under the surface and reveal more about why this company has become so highly regarded.

It’s not merely that Khun Lek has won medals, impressive though that may be. No, it’s because, firstly, he and his brother know every wrinkle and twist of the coastline and seabed all around Samui and further afield, and have developed an almost instinctive awareness of the winds, tides and currents throughout the year. But probably even more vital than this is the aspect of confidence and safety. The boats are strictly limited as to maximum numbers. But then there’s the state-of-the art equipment, too. The navigation gear is linked to Satnav and internet mapping, with Garmin touch-screen Navionics and an interfaced 1-kw sounder with radar overlays. Used together this equipment provides real-time 2-D and 3-D views, not only of the surface of the sea but also underwater too, when used in combination with the Google earth overlay.

And if you add to this the fact that the boats are fully TAT (Tourism Authority of Thailand) licensed and fully insured to international standards, you’ll realise why the title of this story is ‘Super Sa-ard’!

Rob De Wet

________________________________________________ For more information, telephone 0 7724 7656. www.saardswatersport.com

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PECKING ORDER The world of cockfighting in Thailand.

Cockfighting. The word ‘illegal’ will probably spring immediately to mind. Back alleys, illicit meetings and fights to the death. But in Thailand, though it’s not everyone’s idea of entertainment, it is legal. And here, unlike other Southeast Asian countries, no blades or weapons are attached to the legs of the birds. Sure there’s lots of kicking, ferocious pecking and cuts and wounds, but it’s not a fight to the death.

It’s a very popular sport in rural areas of Thailand, and has been for hundreds of years. Such is the popularity nowadays, that there are currently 75 government sanctioned cockfighting stadiums in Thailand. On Samui, they are very much local affairs, with fights scheduled in Chaweng and south of Nathon (near the Raja Ferry) on Saturdays, on Mondays at Saket Stadium and on Thursdays in the Lipa Noi area. It’s best to check with a travel agent if you wish to go. But before you set off you may be interested in knowing a little of the history of cockfighting.

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Cockfighting has been a popular pastime in Thailand for centuries. In 1562, the young Prince Naresuan, then only seven years old, was taken captive by the Burmese, who at that time occupied Thailand.

When he was taken to Burma he took with him his pet cockerel. During his nine years of imprisonment in Burma, he was treated well, exactly like a member of the Burmese royal family. He was taught music, literature, and sports. During this time he developed a deep love for the sport of cockfighting. He would often let his own cockerel fight against the Burmese prince’s bird. It is said that the Thai bird invariably won against his Burmese opponent. Today in the city of Ayutthaya, at Wat Suwandararam, you can see murals which depict the fights between the Burmese prince’s roosters and Prince Naresuan’s birds. The prince returned to Thailand, and as a king he still enjoyed the sport of cockfighting. It was a sport quickly taken up by the aristocrats of the day.

Nowadays it is more the rural population of Thailand that enjoys the sport.

There are two types of purebred Thai fighting birds. The first is the type that Prince Naresuan took with him to Burma, the simply named ‘kai lueng hang khao’, which literally translates as ‘yellow chicken with a white tail’. This bird is still very popular today amongst breeders. The bird is a native of Phitasanulok in Northern Thailand. The second major breed of cock is a native of central Thailand, the ‘pradu hang dam’ or ‘brown body with black tail’.

Thai birds are known for their aggressiveness in the sport, with blistering jump kicks and a barrage of pecks to their opponents. Burmese cocks on the other hand are known for their strategic fighting. The most prized fighting bird these days in the world of cockfighting is a cross breed of Thai and Burmese, combining the best from both animals, the patience of the Burmese with the power of the Thai.

Fighting birds are specially bred and trained for increased stamina and strength. At six weeks old breeders select the chicks that already show promise of being good strong fighters. They are fed a special high-protein, low-fat diet which includes such foods as snakehead fish, tarantulas, vegetables, boiled eggs, and beans. All of this is to build up the strength of the bird. The birds are also made to walk long distances to build up muscle and stamina and sometimes they are even put on a swimming course. They may also be given steam baths with lemongrass to toughen up their skin. Fighting cocks live for about ten years but only two or three of those years are spent fighting.

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Incidentally, fighting cocks now require their own identity cards in Thailand; this is a requirement that’s been in place ever since the outbreak of avian flu, in 2004. The identity cards certify the vaccination records of the birds.

Fights take place every weekend around the country. And it is estimated that today in Thailand the cockfighting industry has an audience of over 200,000 people each weekend. The cockfights themselves take place in round, sandy pits measuring about 20 feet across, with one and a half foot high padded walls. The only person allowed into the pit during the fight is the referee. As we’ve mentioned already, Thai cockfighting does not include spurs or blades, and the bouts do not last until death; usually they will last up to 15 minutes. The winner is declared by a number of scenarios, for example, the bird runs away and refuses to fight, or both eyes are shut and the bird won’t open them or it repeatedly sits down and does not get up. The trainer may also step in and stop the fight.

Fairness is the name of the game in Thailand; before the fight begins the trainers will bring together the birds and select the fairest match, matching strength and size, so a much larger bird would never go against a smaller bird.

Though gambling is illegal in Thailand, at some venues, you will see open gambling. This is because organisers of some cockfights can ask for, and sometimes receive, an exemption from the gambling laws and bets are allowed at the fights. At big fights this could mean as much as 200,000 Baht for the organisers, which is a lot of money in rural Thailand. People keep track of their wagers in small notebooks, furiously scribbling down their wins and losses. There is a lot of excitement around the rings with people shouting, yelling out to the birds, to each other, laughing and commiserating with one another.

It has been said by some that the cockfight has come to symbolise the Thais’ love of a fair fight. That it is an integral part of rural life there can be no doubt. The popularity of the sport speaks for itself. Buddhist amulets are created and blessed in Thai temples with many depicting Buddha with cocks in fighting poses. That being said it is not everyone’s cup of tea!

Natalie Hughes

BOUTIQUE RESORT KOH SAMUI

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THE R E S TA U R A N T

Pavilion presents the best in Samui Boutique Resort dining.

The Patio Restaurant serves authentic Italian and Thai delicacies.

Experience a romantic meal with outstanding sea views.

The Look-Out Bar is the ideal place to unwind with a drink by our beach side pool.

Wedding on the Beach Experience the most special day of your life in romantic tropical surroundings at Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort.

Select from our Western, Thai and Chinese wedding options.

Let us tailor make a celebration for you or choose one of our wedding packages.

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Lamai Beach, Koh Samui Tel: 0 7742 4420, 0 7742 4030 Fax: 0 7742 4029 www.samuiholiday.com info@pavilionsamui.com www.pavilionsamui.com

Serving an exciting variety of Thai, Italian and seafood from our open, show kitchen with genuine pizza oven.

Choose from open air seating on the first floor with ocean view or air-conditioned seating on the ground floor.

Live music every night.

Open daily from 12 noon till 11 pm Located on Lamai Beach Road opposite Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort www.samuiholiday.com l 43 Reservation: 077 424 420

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AMAZING ZAMA Zama Rooftop Kitchen/Bar wows with brilliant food and architecture.

Take extraordinary architecture and put it in the hands of a top-notch chef and tell him or her to come up with a restaurant, furnishings and, of course, an excellent menu, and the results will be amazingly diverse, with each chef unfurling their very own creative dream. Over at newly-opened Zama Rooftop Kitchen/Bar, you can see that chef Martin Selby has combined the eye-catching setting with a unique East-meets-West menu.

Zama is to be found at Prana Resort Nandana, on the Bophut to Bangrak road. Head out from Fisherman’s Village and the road cuts through the resort just before it comes to Bangrak. The car park is on your right. The entire setting is extremely stylish, yet puts its visitors at ease. The avant-garde reception, with its airy vaulted look, leads you round to a cosy bar, which overlooks the extensive swimming pool. It’s the ideal place for a drink, or, since Zama’s open all day from breakfast through to dinner, you may well want a snack or light meal here. (Opening hours are from 7:00 am to 11:00 pm.) Zama and all its surroundings seem to have been designed for lingering and you’re more than welcome to do so. You can even drink while at the swim-up bar - the management are happy for you to come and use the pool, making this an excellent spot for anyone driving round the island and wanting a break and a swim at the same time.

The restaurant itself is on the first floor of the building. You can walk up a corkscrew staircase taking in the view of the resort as you go, but if you don’t feel like doing so, you can take the elevator. But you might want to take it anyway, as I’ll warrant that you won’t have seen one like this before, ever. A door opens onto what seems to be an air well. Where’s the elevator? You’ll by now be standing on it; a platform that rests flush against the very white walls. There’s no ceiling to the elevator and you’ll look up and see the door to the restaurant above you. The floor simply rises up to meet it.

And you step out onto the elegantly-furnished terrace that is Zama. You can enjoy spectacular views out over the sea and the sheer open-air feel to the place.

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So far, you’ve been wowed by the architecture and the setting; now you’ll need to take a few breaths before you’re wowed by the menu.

But perhaps first start with a cocktail - as well as the usual favourites, you’ll also find gourmet delights for the more adventurous; try The Ninja’s Wife, which is made of fresh ginger, lemongrass, lemon juice, pink grapefruit juice and sake. Or perhaps the similarly unique Rosie’s Zippy Rhubarb, which is gold tequila, homemade rhubarb syrup with fresh rosemary, chilli, fresh lime and sea salt.

descriptions of the food are kept simple and you certainly don’t have to be a chef or even a food connoisseur to understand what’s going on.

There are three menus: breakfast, lunch and dinner, and a separate one for desserts. For lunch, you can opt for a burger, or one of Zama’s foot long pizzas (try Thai Laab Chicken, for example, or the three-cheese treat). Or, on the Asian side, how about Momofako? Behind the name you’ll find sticky belly pork, pickled bok choi in a home-made steamed bun.

Zama concentrates on what it calls fine Thai and modern European cuisines. It’s a departure from the standard-style Thai menus, with dishes here featuring creative fusion, while its European selection offers rustic fine dining complete with all the fine touches to go with the cuisine. It’s hard to make recommendations when everything on the menu looks so good.

Dinner is always a time of day to look forward to if you’re on Samui, and Zama certainly fulfils expectations when it comes to tastiness. The menu is deceptively select and is basically divided into Western Smalls, Eastern Smalls, Western Mains and Eastern Mains. Since you’re in Asia and in a very cosmopolitan restaurant, you can have the best of both East and West. So for smalls you could pick, for example, the Mieng Hoy Shell (Hokkaido scallops, betel leaf and cashew nuts) or the delicious Som Tam Rolls, and enjoy together with a Wild Mushroom Fricassée or the Beetroot and Vodka-cured Salmon. www.samuiholiday.com l 47

One thing you’ll find about the menus is that they’re refreshingly easy to understand; on an island where so many nationalities congregate, the

Prepare to be spoiled again by the main courses. The menu has dishes such as lasagne, pork tenderloin (it comes wrapped in Serrano ham) or opt for the Pasture Fed Australian Ribeye Steak – all good, hearty options. On the Asian side, you’ll find further treats such as Zama’s Fried Tiger Prawns in Sweet and Sour Tamarind Sauce or their Steamed Snowfish, prepared with fresh lime, chilli and coriander.

Zama also has a full selection of wines and champagne to perfectly match the food. If you’re not sure what’s best to go with the dishes you’ve chosen, simply ask the wait staff who’ll be able to guide you.

Once dinner’s over the select dessert menu will be next on the agenda.

Safe to say it’s going to tempt you with its medley of treats. Try the white chocolate cremeux with sour cherries and almond streusel. Or the unusual, but tasty, black pepper strawberries with rosemary shortbread and gin and tonic sorbet. You’ll also find ice-cream if you’re more of a traditionalist, and then there’s that rarity on Samui, a selection of cheeses. Not many restaurants offer that, but you’ll find it here at Zama, accompanied by crackers and chutneys.

There are plenty of reasons to head for Zama and it’s safe to say that no matter why you decide to come, you’re bound to be very pleasantly surprised by just what this stylish new restaurant has to offer.

Dimitri Waring

__________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information telephone 0 7725 3688. www.zamasamui.com

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New Branch Grand Opening at The Wharf Samui

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Going the Extra Mile Smart Start offers way more than most pre-schools.

It’s always a challenge to find a pre-school or kindergarten; parents and children alike have to agree on their choice. It’s trickier still if you’re living abroad and are simply not sure how things operate there. Many people are now coming to stay on Samui for varying lengths of time, and they’re seeking options for their young children.

There are crèches and centres of various kinds dotted around the island, and if you’re looking for a place for your child then you’re certain to come across Smart Start, as it’s rapidly gaining a name for itself.

There’s a refreshing approach to day care at Smart Start, with a focus on each child as an individual, and where children also receive, exactly as the name of the centre implies, a start to their future education. It’s run by Elena Korostylova who comes from the Ukraine and has a diploma in teaching. She was first a physics teacher, and then moved to the USA, where she taught for eight years.

She speaks fluent English, and thanks to her qualifications is licensed to teach the language, too.

Elena came to Samui and fell in love with the island and its tropical ambience, and decided to stay. She has a young son, Henry, and is very much a family person. Her husband, Sergey, is also a part of Smart Start; he’s in charge of transportation – some of the children require lifts to and from the centre, and he takes care of all of this. Elena is also helped by her two assistants, Inna, and Lena. Lena is a qualified child-psychiatrist and is able to help any children who may have difficulties.

Her clientele mostly come to her by word-of-mouth, with parents quickly passing on the news that there was a new day care centre on the island. But you’ll want to know what exactly makes it so appealing?

For a start, there’s its great flexibility. Elena says, “We don’t have terms or fixed periods of time when children can attend. So if you would like your child to come to us for say just three hours, a week, a month, then this is fine. We don’t have hidden fees or one-off payments to enrol a child.”

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The prices, by the way, are all very reasonable and, naturally, the longer each child is attending the centre, the less expensive the cost per day.

Elena also gives discounts if two or more children from the same family are attending the centre.

Smart Start realise that due to the island’s population being so international, not all children are in the same situation; each has different schedules, different holidays, different needs and so the centre embraces this and adapts to it. “It’s important to us to go the extra mile,” says Elena, “We want to make sure that the children are happy when they’re with us, so we don’t ask them or their parents to fit in with us; it’s the other way round. It’s similarly important that we listen very carefully to what the family wants.” Just to give a very small example, she cites how a child’s diet is adhered to, and how they’ll provide all the foods required, so if a child is vegetarian, that regime is followed.

As a result of all of this, the centre really doesn’t have the feel of a school; there’s not a whiff of the institutional here; it’s more like being in a large yet generous-minded family, where each individual is valued and their individuality is considered of paramount importance. That’s not to say the greater unit, the community that the centre represents, isn’t important; children are taught to share, and are encouraged to think about others.

Learning, even at the earliest of ages, is something that Elena holds as being crucial to a child’s development. Every day the centre has different activities; no two days are the same, Elena says, and the idea behind this is to stimulate the children’s minds. There are class activities, which are centred on having fun, but they’re nonetheless learning experiences, too. There may be, say, an experiment with baking soda, or some kind of fun experience about something in nature, or the subject could be the world itself, and understanding some part of it. There’s a little classroom where the children love to go for lessons like these. It’s complete with tables and chairs and is an ideal setting for relaxed lessons. “With this kind of learning,” says Elena, summing up her approach, “we’re not teaching the children what to think, but how to think.” The difference is a crucial one. The lessons don’t seem like lessons at all, but have the feel

of structured play. “The centre’s all about learning, even at very young ages; it’s not just a place where children come to eat and drink and spend the day; I want more than that for them.”

It took Elena months to find the right place for the centre. She eventually found an ideal house in an ideal spot. It had to be near a road, but far enough for children to be safe and undistracted by noise. The house where the centre is to be found is tucked away down a lane which opens up onto a minor road. The lane is immediately to the left of SCL International School in Lamai. To get to the centre, turn off the ring-road as you head into Lamai from Chaweng and take the small road that goes past Tamarind Springs. Simply follow it until you see the flags that mark the entrance to the lane, next to SCL. The centre is located in a house that’s bright and spacious. It has a large garden that Elena has grassed over, turning it into an attractive play area. Everything is spotlessly clean, beautifully maintained and is an ideal space for children to run about in.

There’s the classroom mentioned already where children can go to learn, and also a room with bedding where they can have their siestas. You’ll also find a kitchen as well as a big day area that’s serves as a play area.

Smart Start accepts children up to the age of six years. The starting age all depends on the individual child, and Elena has accepted infants of just 13 months.

With Samui becoming home to more and more people of diverse nationalities, Smart Start caters for the needs of this very international community and their children. And it’s not just a place to while away the hours; children’s learning is taken seriously here.

Dimitri Waring

___________________________________________ For further information telephone 0 983 645 379. www.samuismartstart.com www.samuiholiday.com l 53

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GIDDY

UP Try your hand at horse riding with Samui Riding Club.

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Known for its white sands and turquoise waters, Samui draws people from all over the world to experience its wonderful beaches. But one wonders if some tourists are getting the whole experience, for in the centre of the island a vast jungle awaits, the perfect adventure.

Horses were originally used to speed up travel, improve farming practices and manage livestock. They have been used for work and play for several thousand years. Horseback riding is now a very common pursuit, and as a matter of fact you can now try it right here on Samui.

The Samui Riding Club is open daily from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm.

Although it is a little tricky to get there, the cute little ranch is well worth the drive. Turn off the ring-road at Bandon Hospital, and you will see signs a little further down the road on your left. Beware, the road down is a little bumpy heading towards the horses, and you will definitely see a chicken or two!

Samui Riding Club actually offers a variety of options from horseback riding to archery! If trail riding is what interests you take some advice from the experts on which horse will suit you best. Nan and Tiw Tiw, both aged 11, ride every day from five to six. Samui natives, they have been riding for just over three years, and at Samui Riding Club since it was opened a year ago. The club is home to ten horses, all wellgroomed and healthy. Sport and Neptune, two of the ten, are Nan’s

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favourites. She says, “Yes, they are my favourites because I ride them most often. I love them.” Tiw Tiw on the other hand prefers Jacob saying, “Jacob is my favourite because he is good and has pretty white blonde hair.” Although the girls have their favourites, and you might be lucky to ride one of them, all of the horses are well taken care of and special in their own way.

Trail riding involves a one hour ride through the jungle. The horses will allow you to explore more land than on foot, and with a view! The friendly staff will be leading the way so feel free to sit back, relax and enjoy the scenery.

While horses have been domesticated you must remember they are still essentially wild animals. If you’re a beginner check out these three quick tips!

1. You’re the leader, but don’t push it!

As a rider you should be a natural leader for your horse, but this doesn’t mean yelling at it or getting easily frustrated. Although the horses are well trained, it is a good tip to remember your horse is hot, has you on its back, and is going to stay that way for about an hour. A happy horse will make for a wonderful afternoon, so be kind!

2. Keep your heels slightly down.

This is a safety tip. By keeping your heels slightly down it prevents your foot from sliding down and getting caught in the stirrup. This doesn’t mean push your heels down so hard that it hurts! Instead it should feel firm like a solid foundation and promote a feeling of balance.

3. Keep your head up.

Believe it or not, our heads are really heavy. If you are moving your head all around your horse will have to compensate, and they already have enough to worry about!

Keep your eyes forward and your head up in the direction you want to be going, and your horse will take you there.

Look elsewhere and you might end up in the middle of nowhere! (But then again, the staff would never allow that.

Stick with them and you’ll be just fine!)

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Samui Riding Club has a multitude of options for all levels. The club provides two rings, one for beginners, and one for more advanced learners. In the advanced ring you’ll find yourself galloping and even jumping with the help of knowledgeable staff.

And don’t forget, the club also offers archery as well as ATV rides through the mountains. Regardless of what you choose, head to the Samui Riding Club for an adventure away from the beach.

Alison Stephens ______________________________ For further information, telephone 0 816 934 690 58 l www.samuiholiday.com

BRANCH 1 CHAWENG BEACH ROAD OPPOSITE SPAGO RESTAURANT

TEL: +66 831715733

BRANCH 2 CHAWENG BEACH ROAD NEXT TO CENTRAL FESTIVAL

WWW.MSCARINO.COM

BRANCH 3 THE WHARF SAMUI FISHERMAN’S VILLAGE

WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/MSCARINOO www.samuiholiday.com

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WHOOP-LA!

The Wharf Samui is a new mall offering shops, restaurants and a whole lot more right beside the sea.

What’s behind the name? Fisherman’s Village used to be precisely that, a small fishing community that thrived off the local seas, with boats setting off and returning with catches that fed the inhabitants of Bophut and the surrounding areas. Life was very, very simple. Television eventually came to the island and in the evening, a favourite pastime would be to bring a chair and sit out on the little street that runs parallel to the shore and gather round the single TV set and watch what was happening in the rest of the world. Back then the villagers could hardly have suspected that the world outside Samui would soon be coming to them, bringing 60 l www.samuiholiday.com

at first handfuls of curious travellers who’d heard on the grapevine about Samui, and then gradually more and more. The little street soon began to change and its row of wooden houses (you can still see some of these today) began to open up to the holidaymakers who needed food and a place to stay. It wasn’t long before looking after the visitors provided full-time work for many of the villagers, and gradually tourism became the norm. Today you’ll no longer see nets hanging out to dry; the little street is comprised of bars, restaurants and a scattering of hotels and places to stay.

Nobody expected any of this and as Fisherman’s Village developed, many people thought they saw a kind of Mediterranean feel beginning to appear; the beachfront road might have stepped out of half a dozen countries fronting the Mediterranean, a place where people take a stroll at night, sit in the cafes overlooking the water then eat in one or other of the restaurants.

The Wharf fits in very nicely with all of this. The people who created it wanted it to have a community feel to it. “That was very important to us,”

says the new mall manager, Khun Kitiphum Tonglimchinagrit. “We didn’t want to build a soulless shopping mall. We envisaged a space along the lines of an open community, where there’s something for everyone.

The buildings are contemporary, but many incorporate old-styles in some way or other. If you walk round The Wharf, you might just think that the layout is based on what stood here before and that at some point in the past there were courtyards and lanes here. But you’d be wrong – the whole area has been designed from scratch. But it’s been done very professionally, and The Wharf dovetails effortlessly with the rest of www.samuiholiday.com l 61

Fisherman’s Village. Everything’s small scale, just as it is locally – and you can wander around to your heart’s content.

You’ll find The Wharf approximately 500 metres west of the Bophut traffic lights as you head from Chaweng to Maenam. You can’t miss it.

Simply look for the large tower and the massive car park on the ringroad. Or if you’re taking a stroll along the beach road in Fisherman’s Village, you’ll automatically come to it at the western end of the village.

It’s a great place to visit for a number of reasons and is very popular with holidaymakers. You can come here for a day out on the beach and just relax and swim. The Wharf has a small number of sun beds which are free to use, as are the showers (located on its eastern side). You’ll probably need some respite from the sun, and The Wharf provides plenty, as it does places to eat and drink. Centrally located you’ll find the Food Centre, where you can buy a meal from any of the counters here. They mostly sell very inexpensive Thai food, but you’ll find Italian dishes, too, and some Russian. If it’s drinks with friends that you’re hankering for then head for The Wharf Bar, where you’ll be able to order cocktails and other drinks and enjoy them in a stylish setting.

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THE SIAM RESIDENCE B o u t i q u e

R e s o r t

Phone: +66 (0) 77 420 008 | samui@siamresidence.com www.siamresidence.com

Your Private Holidays in Samui Located at the beach of Lipa Noi, the Siam Residence is nestled in a tropical garden. Created to provide the very best of Thai hospitality, this small luxury retreat incorporates luxurious accommodation, attentive service and excellent cuisine in an atmosphere of calm and seclusion.

Enjoy our 1 or 2 bedroom luxury villas with separate living room, marble bath, two toilets, free wireless internet access.

welcome to drop in for a cup of coffee or a drink and watch the world go by. If you come in the evening and would like to try some gourmet treats, then head for Barracuda, a top-notch yet very affordable restaurant, with gourmet international dishes. There are other choices too, and naturally you may want to venture into Fisherman’s Village itself, which is very conveniently right next to The Wharf.

Children are welcome everywhere in Thailand and no matter where you stop to eat, they’ll be made welcome. At The Wharf, they also have their very own playground, which is free. It’s a series of slides and climbing frames in bright colours which just call to be played on. Adults get tempted, too.

There are plenty of stores too at The Wharf and mostly offer summer clothing, accessories and souvenirs. To give just one example, at Ms. Carino where you can pick up a light-weight dress, a handbag, or brightly-coloured top, all stylishly made, good quality and affordable. There’s naturally a store selling just about everything you’d need for a day out; Arnon Minimart even stocks children’s beach sets, as well as drinks and snacks, making this an incredibly useful place.

For some serious relaxation, try Dusita Spa, where you can thoroughly indulge yourself with all kinds of massages and beauty treatments, and perhaps opt for one or other of their packages. For beauty products and any medication you might need, head for Morya pharmacy, right in the heart of The Wharf; they have an enormous stock of medicines and with a qualified pharmacist on site, they’re naturally your first port-of-call if you’re feeling unwell.

In the evening, you’ll often find live music being played at The Wharf. It could be anything from jazz to reggae. You might also find Thai boxing or some other kind of performance; The Wharf sees itself very much as part of the community and every month they put on shows and activities, often with themes. Khun Kitiphum explains, “We want to make sure there are interesting things to do each and every month. For example, in August we’re going to be putting on a music festival. We also share our profits with Samui and aim to help the island.” You can check out for yourself what’s on – the month’s activities are listed on boards at The Wharf, as well as on the official website.

There are plenty of reasons to come to The Wharf and once you get there, you’ll find it’ll fit in very neatly with your holiday activities, whether it’s food and drink, a swim or just browsing the stores for summery fashions.

Many people come back again and again, enjoying the relaxed feel that permeates the entire place.

Dimitri Waring ________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 922 508 531, 0 922 505 921 or 0 7742 5500. www.thewharfsamui.com

The Ridge is an exclusive luxury development of private pool villas with panoramic sea views located in the prime North East of Koh Samui, just minutes from the island’s most popular beaches and entertainment areas.

Designed by David McCormick, a renowned international architect, each villa provides the perfect blend of “contemporary tropical living”. Each villa is also designed to meet the dual requirements as a luxury vacation residence and successful luxury villa rental property.

Sunbathe on the expansive terrace, take a cool dip in the infinity pool, relax in the integrated Jacuzzi and dine under the stars. Breathe fresh air, get away from it all and escape from the city in style…

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CHANGING FACES

The face of tourism has been changing – so what’s it all about?

The origins of tourism to Thailand lie back in the ’60s, as the first European carriers started a price war by cutting the cost of flights to the bone. Packages sprang up with discount flights and hotels combined.

For once America was slow to follow: their people weren’t too keen to jaunt off abroad – even today only one-third of the nation holds a valid passport. But, while all this was going on, the Americans had already staked a claim of sorts on Thailand. During the Vietnam War, the area around Pattaya was a centre of R&R, and many soldiers took wives or girlfriends with them when they later returned home. Quite a few, also, either stayed here or came back later to open a small business of some kind. And it was during this period that foreign visitors first discovered Samui.

At which historical point we need to hit the fast-forward button – it’s enough to say that, almost 50 years later, Samui is now an international holiday destination. This implies, of course, that people all over the globe are scrambling to get here. But in terms of percentages, when you look at how many folks come here, and from where, that’s not quite true. Each decade or so sees a shift in our visitors, as the global economy ebbs and flows and new governments and laws pop up. Not only this, but the reasons that people are coming to Thailand, and how long they are staying for, have changed completely in the last ten years or so, too.

So right away let’s sort out the sheep from the wolves, so to speak. The first type of tourists (and probably the most obvious kind) are those who come here on a holiday package for two or three weeks and then go home again. In the decade from 1998 to 2008, a great many of these were Europeans - mainly Brits, Germans, Swiss and Dutch, with a few Scandinavians thrown in for good measure. Thailand’s economy was in turmoil, and the Thai Baht had just been devalued. If you were coming here with foreign money, then overnight your buying power had suddenly doubled. And so into the mix came the Aussies and the Russians, although it has to be said that Australians have always had itchy feet – but now there were a lot more of them!

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By the time that the mid-2000s had arrived, things had changed completely. Being able to work over the internet had become commonplace, and there was a trickle of all nationalities coming to Samui and staying as long as their extended tourist visas would allow.

Interestingly, with Samui, this altered the logistics dramatically – the average age of long-stayers suddenly dropped by about 20 years!

And that brings us to the third category - residents. But a quick mention only – as those who come to live here, buy property, start a business, or find long-term employment, are in the comparative minority of our visitors, and many of them go on to morph their tourist visas into something less transitory. True, they tend to be more ‘mature’ than most visitors, and undoubtedly are more cash-rich. But they are not part of a ‘trend’; category three has been around from the start.

This newfound spending power caused an upsurge in another type of tourist – although strictly speaking this category didn’t go touring about and seeing the sights. These folks came here and stayed for three months or longer, but on a tourist visa. Traditionally this kind of long-stay used to be favoured by European construction workers (et al), getting away from the worst of their winter weather. But with the disruption and upheaval of the old USSR and the formation of the new Russian Federation in 1992, the pattern of Thai ‘tourism’ went wild. Now it cost less to send your family to Thailand over the winter months than to suffer the cost of keeping them in central Europe. At that time, the majority of Russians spoke little English, and so they tended to group together in Thailand, taking over whole apartment buildings and city areas. The men stayed behind working – unless they could work over the internet – but this didn’t really take off until high-speed broadband came to Thailand, ten years later.

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So – faces on Samui. What nationalities are we seeing today? Answer; lots more Asians and, suddenly, an eruption of Chinese. And these are all type one – the ten-day tourists. Of late, the strong Thai Baht against international currencies has made it more expensive to come here. Longhaul flights from Europe are costly. But flying here from India, Korea, or China is comparatively affordable. Plus, just recently, the Chinese government relaxed international travel restrictions for the first time. As a result, millions of Chinese have now taken to the skies. In 2012, the Chinese overtook both the American and the Germans and became the world’s top international tourism spenders, taking over 100 million overseas trips that year. Thus, they’ve knocked London off the top-city spot, as Bangkok is closer and thus much cheaper to get to. (Bangkok is now the world’s most-visited capital, according to the MasterCard 2013 survey.) But it’s unlikely you’ll see them in your local restaurant, even though resorts report a sharp rise in Chinese guests. Unlike other nationalities, they come for a week, are marshalled about in organised groups, and don’t venture out anywhere on their own!

So what does the future hold? Well it’s difficult to say, but no matter what, Thailand will almost certainly remain one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world.

Rob De Wet

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FIGHTING FIT Trying your hand at the national sport of Muay Thai.

When I arrived at my first Muay Thai session, I was too late to join the trainees who had left for their ‘casual’ afternoon jog, so I turned my focus to the training session ahead. Slipping off my shoes I trudged onto the mats, regretting my carefree vacation attitude that had consumed the previous couple of weeks. I knew the late nights and bottomless tubs of ice cream and pancake binges would eventually catch up with me, but I hadn’t imagined it happening quite like this. I couldn’t even picture myself going through a jog, how was I supposed to get through two hours of Muay Thai?

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Pointing to a cascade of jump ropes hanging from a boxing ring one of the trainers said, “Ten minutes”. Okay, I thought to myself, I can at least do this. So I began, doing my best not to trip over the rope as I swung it around and around my body.

This fighting technique was first used in actual warfare, but became a sport when spectators began to watch for entertainment. As it continued to grow in popularity, the once bare-fisted fighters began wearing lengths of hemp rope around their forearms, fighting at local festivals and celebrations.

I wasn’t in a festival, and I certainly didn’t have hemp wraps around my fists, but even within the first ten minutes I was overly excited. I was in an open aired gym with views of the road to the west, and trees to the north and south. The gym was equipped with eleven bags, a giant floor mat, and two full sized boxing rings. Not to mention all the gloves, pads, shin guards and wraps available to anyone who would like to train.

Suddenly the ten minutes were over and the real training began. Upon placing my rope back in its place, another man approached holding two black wraps.

Sticking out his hand he clenched and unclenched his fist. I followed suit. He then began wrapping my hand, wordlessly, but with a smile. After assuring him it was okay, he gave me a pair of gloves.

The sweat came instantly. I could feel my muscles working harder than they had in weeks. He taught me simple moves, punches, high kicks, knees. Suddenly I was reacting faster to his cues and learning new moves. Front kick, elbow, block. I was so tired, but wanted to keep going. As he taught me one on one we laughed at my occasional (perhaps frequent) mistakes. His short outbursts told me what my next move was, keeping me engaged and on my toes.

An elbow strike is considered the most dangerous fighting technique, but also one of the most difficult to land properly. It can be used in a variety of ways including horizontal, diagonal-upwards/downwards, uppercut, and backwards. The two types of kicks that are most well-known include the thip (a front kick), and the roundhouse kick. Both kicks, along with others used during a fight, draw power from the entire body, but most importantly the hips.

The rest progressed quickly. After four rounds of pad work I was then instructed to hit the bags. Four rounds later I could tell my body was going to be more than a little sore in the morning.

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A MOVIE

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For the remainder of the training session I worked on technique drills, as it was my first time. I was with a group of four, working on upper cuts, side punches, front kicks and everything in between. Some of the other trainees who were more experienced got in the ring to practice shadow boxing, sparring, and clinching.

One distinct aspect of Muay Thai is how Thai fighters clinch.

In clinching, fighters are intertwined with their hands wrapped around the others head attempting to push their opponent downwards to then strike with either the knee or the elbow.

Often the referee will separate the two fighters after only moments of being intertwined.

Although I only participated in the group training session, gyms also offer private training. The island is littered with gyms, so check out ones that are listed in your area for more specific times.

If training doesn’t interest you there are ample opportunities to view this spectacular sport right here on Samui. Leading up to Thai boxing nights, pickup trucks drive all around the island blasting the details of the night’s event, and flyers are often passed out at major events including night markets. You can purchase your ticket at the door or go to a local gym and buy your ticket (often at a discount).

With ten minutes to go I felt triumphant and could see the banana pancake at the end of the tunnel. My body was sore and I knew I might have been one of the worst fighters to ever step foot in a gym. Even so, I felt a little closer to Thai culture, and understood, by the smiles covering every face in the gym (even mine), why this sport is so loved.

Alison Stephens

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HORROR HOUSE

PANORAMIC PINNACLE The Ridge wows with its bold architecture and top quality finish.

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There’s an old Berber saying – it could only come from a nomadic race ‘A house is a tomb for the living.’ It may seem a tad extreme, but anyone who spends a lot of time outdoors will recognize its wisdom. And perhaps everyone can agree that houses in hot climates don’t need to have anything claustrophobic about them; there’s no battle to keep out the cold.

Surprisingly though, quite a few houses in the tropics don’t take as much advantage of light, air and space as they could. They end up being just boxes. Effortlessly veering away from such soullessness, a new project in the hills overlooking Choeng Mon uses creative flair and imagination to bring homeowners a true sense of spaciousness - The Ridge.

developers. Rodney has written what many people firmly believe is the definitive guide to resort property in Thailand. His book, ‘The Essential Guide - Buying Property in Thailand’, takes you step by step through all the processes you’ll need to master. It’s not a flimsy tome either – it took him a year to write and there are over 500 pages of solid, researched information. Even the most superficial reading will show that Rodney is deeply committed to the quality that derives from correct preparation and thorough attention to detail in the execution phases. He has gone to extraordinary lengths to de-mystify the housing market here in Thailand, which is no easy task.

The Ridge took part in the 2014-2015 Thailand Property Awards and impressed the panel of judges. Drawn from top CEO’s of Bangkok’s business and construction scene, they are not the kind of people to be easily swayed, and The Ridge was declared the winner of the Best Residential Development (Samui). The judges said of the development, “The quality of construction, attention to detail, and overall presentation of The Ridge sets it apart from other projects on Koh Samui.”

Rodney is on site nearly every day, making absolutely sure everything’s done correctly, and to ensure the construction teams know exactly what’s expected. This applies to every aspect of the development, structures and materials, electricity and plumbing through to the final finish and even beyond to the furnishings, if required by the buyer.

The winners of the property awards are all extremely skilled at what they do and they’re passionate about it too. The company responsible for The Ridge, Panoramic Estate Company, is indeed exceptional. Their team is small, dedicated and cutting edge; it’s headed by Rodney Waller, and his partner Andrew Walmsley, who are both experienced

The architects are M-system, who are well-known internationally – their recent projects include the Beijing Olympics and the Novotel Han River, the tallest building in Danang, Vietnam. They know exactly how to utilise even the most demanding of terrain. The villas are niched into the hillside, and have been designed to get the very best out of the views of the surroundings. Windows face out onto Choeng Mon and have views of the nearby island of Koh Pha-Ngan. Since you’re high up you’ll have a

Located on the tropical stretch of golden sands and turquoise waters off Koh Samui’s up market Bophut bay, Beach Bar offers wide variety of cocktails, champagne, wines, snacks, delicious home made ice cream and freshly blended fruit drink Come and join our happy hour as day turns to dusk before strolling down to the quaint cobblestone ‘Bophut Fisherman village’ Good things come in three, enjoy our Happy Hours daily at

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slightly airborne feel here. You can actually look way down and see Plai Laem with its jewel of a temple. Not many people have such an interesting view, and it’s a wide one too, a panorama that takes in the entire headland and the sea beyond. You could easily pass half an hour just staring out at what you see, and the best place to do so would be from the swimming pool, with its infinity edge that draws the gaze out towards the sweep of the headland beyond. The Ridge is well-located, and just down the road from the property you’ll find three roads that fan out to take you to the rest of the island. It’s very close to the airport – a ten-minute drive – five minutes to Choeng Mon’s beautiful beach and a little further to Chaweng. To find The Ridge, by the way, simply drive north up Chaweng’s beach road and keep going (don’t take the airport turn off) through Choeng Mon then turn up Plai Laem Soi 8, which is clearly marked, and follow the signs.

Architecture at The Ridge is bold, with roofs sloping to afford the maximum play of light in the villas’ interiors, and the use of curves to produce a sense of gracefulness that’s bound to please. Privacy’s also not been neglected, with landscaping and mature trees planted between plots so owners aren’t going to be overlooked by the other villas. The interiors are equally as well-designed, with white quartz surfaces and tropical hardwoods, and the use of soft lighting to ensure a relaxed feel once evening comes. Bathrooms

HANSAR SAMUI

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feature floor-to-ceiling glass and the highest quality fittings, while kitchen areas have been designed for easy cooking and entertainment in a stylish setting.

The development is a boutique one with just eight plots, which have been selling well. With construction underway since 2013, and just the last few villas available for sale, this is your opportunity to secure a home in one of Samui’s prime residential locations. If you’re interested in a viewing, there’s now a show house that’s finished and furnished, which will let you experience first-hand the actual look of one of The Ridge’s villas. The quality is discernible in both the overall look of the property and in the tiniest detail. Prices start from 21,300,000 Baht.

On sale is a very beautiful three-bedroom villa, with two master bedrooms upstairs and a guest bedroom (or home office) downstairs. There are also four-bedroom villas, featuring two master bathrooms, with a third guest bedroom upstairs and a fourth, downstairs, which can be converted into an office or study room. Each villa has an open-plan living, dining and kitchen area, with outdoor pool, integrated Jacuzzi and terrace, as well as parking for two vehicles.

Once completed, the villas will be ready to move into. Some buyers are opting for their purchase to be handed over fully-furnished and totally complete right down to the fridge being stocked for their arrival. There’s also full villa rental management, if required – it’s no secret that with capital gains accruing and investment on rental income, owners will be able to make a solid profit from their property. In a time when global currencies are depreciating, here is an opportunity to put your money into something real where it will grow in value. Because The Ridge is a resort property, it’s a high-yield investment – far more so, say, than buying a property in a capital city could be.

Light, spacious and mingling indoor and outdoor living, The Ridge is ideal for those who appreciate freedom and well-being.

Dimitri Waring _______________________________________ For further information, telephone Rodney Waller on 0 856 920 550. www.theridgesamui.com

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Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Spa 154 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Tel: +66 77 231 500 Mob: +66 81 751 6073 Fax: +66 77 231 520 Email: info@baanhaadngam.com, booking@baanhaadngam.com, www.baanhaadngam.com

Romantic views, soothing sounds and classic Italian fare with a modern approach combine to please the most discerning diner.

Olivio - a must for visitors and locals alike.

Olivio ~ beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort Chaweng Beach.

Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500

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THERE’S MORE TO

MORYA THAN MEETS THE EYE Morya Pharmacy stocks thousands of medications – and that’s not all.

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But you’ll be asking what exactly do they stock? Firstly, there are all the conventional medicines. Can you imagine for a moment how many that would be, given that Samui is a smallish island? It turns out that Morya stock more than 4,000 items. That’s a huge amount. So, whether you have a blocked ear from swimming, athlete’s foot, diarrhoea or need some antiinflammation medication, you’re sure to find it at Morya.

If you’re driving around Samui, you’ll see there are lots of convenience stores selling food and drink and a wide range of other useful items. You’ll also come across what appears to be a medical version of these stores, stocked with medicines, and with a pharmacist rather than just a cashier in charge. Pretty much everywhere on the island you’re never far from one of these chemists. The chain is called Morya. In Thai ‘mor’ means ‘doctor’ and ‘ya’ means ‘medicine’ – Dr Medicine, therefore! The name’s apt: step inside any of the branches and you’ll find it’s a lot more than just a medical ‘convenience’ store – you’re covered for the full spectrum of pharmaceutical products, and you’ll also find many other products that complement the medicines on offer.

There are currently 17 Morya pharmacies on Samui, and they recently opened a stylish new branch at The Wharf, in Fisherman’s Village. You might think that Morya must be a Thailand-wide network. It’s obviously successful and looks sophisticated enough to be present anywhere in the country. But it turns out that the founder has chosen to keep things local; you’ll only find Morya on Samui, and nowhere else.

Morya’s main office is located in Chaweng, and from there it’s a cinch to manage the other stores. This in turn makes it easier to maintain product quality and the consistency of service. Take transport, for example. If you’ve come from a colder climate, you may not realize that it can be tricky to keep medicines at the right temperature. Much like certain foods, they can go ‘off’ – and you don’t want to be taking medicine which is now not going to help you, or worse, make you sicker. So Morya makes sure that everything is stocked, transported and delivered correctly, exactly according to regulations.

Speaking of regulations, pharmacists in Thailand are allowed to sell a greater variety of products over the counter than they would if they were in say, Japan or the USA. Sometimes, it’s not necessary to actually go to a doctor for certain medication. But Morya won’t sell you anything for which, under Thai law, you need a doctor’s prescription; these are people who adhere to the rules.

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They also stock traditional and herbal medicines. You’ll find an extensive range of both types. Some are from Thailand, others are from China. You may need some help with these as they’re probably unfamiliar. Take ‘salet pangphon balm’, for example. The name gives little indication to what it can do. But it turns out to be an excellent and popular Thai herbal remedy for insect bites. There are countless products like these that you won’t find outside Thailand.

If you’re looking for vitamins and supplements, every Morya has a large supply of these, from multi-vitamins down to the more obscure food supplements. They’re very popular. And since we’re in Asia, you’ll also find plenty of ginseng products, including teas. Some of the supplements are also of Chinese origin. Take the reishi mushroom capsules, for example.

These mushrooms have been widely used for the general promotion of health and longevity in many Asian countries. Morya also stock medical equipment, whether you’re looking for a thermometer, a pair of crutches or even a wheelchair to rent.

Morya stocks cosmetics, and also has a full range of sun-care and after-sun products, including protection for children. If your skin feels dry or burned they have plenty of aloe vera products, derived from the spiky green plant that grows throughout Thailand. Their skin care products are extensive and include some new products which you might want to check out, including aroma natural body lotion and aroma nourishing body butter and facial creams. Naturally, all the mosquito repellents are in stock, creams and sprays, as well as balms.

They also stock a range of organic products, including spa products such as aroma herbal candles, aroma massage oil and herbal balm. Morya is now stocking new products from the popular brand, Oriental Nature.

The products focus on cosmetic applications and you’ll find concentrated natural collagen for lifting and promoting healthy skin, and if you wish to have a good complexion, you can try their Oxygen Mask, a new type that is rich in natural nutrients. It stimulates cells, sloughing off dead cells to reveal new healthy skin cells.

Also highly popular, you’ll find snail cream and serum, whereby the natural properties of snail extract are used to keep the skin’s moisture content high, leaving the skin soft and smooth. You can also try bee venom cream, which acts as a natural Botox for the face, leaving the skin firm and giving it a youthful look.

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There are also many kinds of aroma massage oil and aroma essential oil. Both are premium quality. The aroma essential oil is great if you want to add scent to massage oil, bath water or interior diffusers.

If you’re looking for souvenirs or gifts then there’s a variety of natural spa and product sets, for example, coconut, lemongrass, jasmine, and so on.

Just walk into any of the Morya branches and you’ll find friendly and sympathetic staff who are there to help you. They’re well-informed too, and most importantly they speak good English. You’ll find a full-time certified pharmacist and a trained assistant in each of the stores. In Thailand, as in many other parts of the world, pharmacists are highly-trained and you can ask them for medical advice. They can also refer you to a doctor or hospital, if needed.

As well as speaking English, thanks to computerized translations (Google has changed the world of interpreting forever!) they can communicate with you effectively. It’s not a 100% solution but it will certainly be of some help. No problem then if your English isn’t good enough to tell them what you need or what your symptoms are. And if you’re Greek or Russian, say, you’ll still be able to communicate with them.

If you’re particularly interested in organic and spa products and health and nutrition supplements, you should head for Morya’s Greenhealth stores, which focus on these ranges. Currently there are two stores, one on the ring-road in Maenam, close to Zazen Boutique Resort & Spa, and the other at Tesco-Lotus again on the ring-road, in Chaweng.

Morya cares about you and your health and therefore never rests on its laurels. The staff and management strive to move forward and offer better products and better customer service in well-designed stores. Given Morya’s popularity on the island, it’s certainly succeeding in its mission.

Dimitri Waring

________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7741 3298 or 0 7731 0646.

The Barge Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: thebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

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XD X 4

Samui’s gut-wrenching XD Theater has sprouted another three stunning attractions!

Yes, indeed, this is Koh Samui. It’s a tropical island, palm-fringed and blue-skied. But, if you tour around and look closely, it’s ever so slightly schizophrenic – albeit cheerfully so. One identity is Paradise Isle. This is picture postcard land, and to be found deep in the south, with island natives in rustic shacks and toothless fishermen mending their nets on the beach. This is the Samui of 30 years back: people doze in hammocks and sit in salas; there are hut-shops instead of 7-11s and Wi-Fi needs digging out like buried treasure.

But, the further north and east you go, the more things begin to change. The pitted concrete turns to blacktop, you can’t see the sea for end-to-end resorts and everywhere there’s tooting taxis. Hypermarkets jostle for frontage, there’s a multiplex cinema . . . and a shopping mall - Central Festival. This seems to be the ‘bridge’, the icon where the island’s two personalities merge. It’s pretty, it’s light, airy and open, it’s filled with giant trees and plants. And it’s also where you discover that the island has come of age – well, one part of it at least!

We’re talking about the ‘XD Theater’. Those of us who are accustomed to pacier, more hi-tech 21st century living will no doubt be familiar with such attractions. In Thailand, however, it took a while for this kind of electroexcitement to appear, firstly in the huge malls and shopping centres of Bangkok, then filtering outwards to similar venues in the provinces. Pattaya and Phuket were the first focus: they already had a huge resident population and a high tourist turnaround. But Samui was expanding rapidly. Many of the 5-star hotel players had already bought a stake in the island. And then, just a little over a year ago, Central Festival Mall took over a huge chunk of Chaweng, right in the middle of things.

Robertas and Renata Rilis had already expanded their Lithuania/Bulgaria/ Russia holdings into Pattaya and Phuket. And the time was right for them to invest in Samui, too. They opened their first tester not long after Central opened, with the XD Theater appearing on the first floor, just above and to the right of the open-air car park. It was an instant hit. The theatre is small,

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only the 4-seat version, but it’s big enough, and just perfect for a family or a group of friends sharing. The initial idea was to see how it went and then perhaps increase the size (Pattaya has the 16 seat option), but the plans changed.

Instead, Robertas added four more rides to the theatre. Then he expanded the range of attractions. The reasoning is sound – Samui isn’t populated well enough to accommodate big groups, but anyone trying one of the draws tends to try all of them! Now there is also the ‘Extreme Elevator’, the ‘F1 Simulator’ and the ‘Pirate Adventure Horror House’, all together in the same area.

The XD Theater is excellent! If you’ve never tried it, then it’s a must.

Basically, it’s a small blacked-out area with four ergonomic seats and a big screen in front. But the seats are special: the seatbelts give you a clue to this. They’re linked to the soundtrack and screen action via movement activators. And the screen action is in 3-D. It’s very much like a roller coaster ride, but because of the video creativity, you’re not limited to one physical location. Hence as your little cart quivers and tumbles into the depths, lumps of rock fly out of the screen in 3-D, and as you reflexively duck and cover your face, your seat drops suddenly too, bringing your stomach up into your throat.

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The same can be said for the Extreme Elevator, which has choices of going places via the skies or directly through the earth. Here, the action doesn’t occur in front of you, but below, as if the floor was see-through.

It’s a real squeal – everything shudders, shakes, and twists, throwing you from side to side even more dramatically than the XD Theater. There, you’re strapped into your seat, but here you’ve just got a pair of (huge, sturdy) handles to grab onto while the floor keeps trying to pitch you off your feet!

Quite unlike these two ‘rides’ is the F1 Simulator, which actually is based around a real F1 racing car shell. This is interactive, and a huge step up from what you might be used to with car racing games on your Xbox. Not only are you sitting inside a very tight-fitting low-level car, but everything’s keyed to the car’s controls. Three huge flatscreens reach around to your peripheral vision, and the car’s motion is also linked to sensors on the seat that make the whole experience more realistic.

But I’ve saved the best for last. The haunted house – pirate-style. The main thing is that, just looking in at it, you won’t expect it to be scary.

It all looks a bit hammy, with the skeletons of the pirates looking nothing like Jack Sparrow’s mates at all. But it’s worth giving a go, just to see what happens. And what happens is that at one point you’ll

jump right out of your skin! (But I’m not going to give you a clue about that; if you know what’s going to happen it’ll wreck the entire experience!). Firstly, once the lights go out you’ll get a bit disoriented, and that lays the foundation. By means of cunning lighting combinations and with some of the cameos seeming almost holographic, the size and dimensions of the space keep changing. You’ll quickly lose your sense of direction, and that only adds to the very realistic visuals and the sudden frights that keep on happening! It’s about as scary as they get – so be warned!

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ For more information, telephone 0 991 287 898. www.xd-attractions.com

Fine Beachfront Dining serving Thai, Seafood & International Cuisine.

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North Tel: 0 7742 9400 Fax: 0 7742 9498 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com

ISLAND COPS How the police and the tourist police on Samui are working together for you.

Things are different here. Although you’ll look around at the nice modern buildings, the new cars and trucks, the policemen on their motorbikes, the shopping malls, the 7-11s on every corner, the banks and the ATM machines – and never know it. Everything looks so familiar. But it’s only when you’ve stayed here for a month or two that you realise a great many normal aspects of daily life look the same on the surface, but are strikingly different in the way that they work. And one of these is the role and function of the police over here.

The chances are that, here, you’ll hear a policeman before you’ll see one. One of their most visible activities is to direct traffic, which they do with wind-milling arms, and some kind of code signals belted out full-tilt on a whistle.

Their function is different, too. There is no system of law in Thailand where a minor offender is issued with a summons to appear in court at a later date. Or where a more serious event leads to rights being read and then an official arrest, with legal representation and bail available. In fact the entire legal system works in a radically different way to that which you are accustomed – but all of that is beyond the scope of this story.

Suffice it to say that the day-to-day police here act, in effect, as judge and jury in most minor daily incidents, and traffic accidents in particular. In the past, a great many holidaymakers have been shocked to find themselves in a small fender bender – and then a group of policemen turn up to assess the scene, listen to the witnesses, and decide it’s the tourist’s fault and he needs to pay up 10,000 baht, right there on the spot. The biggest problem is not so much that most visitors here don’t expect this to happen, or are not aware of what rights they have or have not got; it’s the language barrier, without a doubt.

At this point we need to look at the other big tourist centres, at Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket and Pattaya. Because all of these places have been aware for a very long time that tourists are a special case. Hardly any visitors can speak or understand the Thai language. And up until very recently, few of the Thai police had much grasp of English.

Even more problematic are those tourists with no common language, such as a lot of the Russian-speakers or some Asian nations, many of whom cannot even communicate in English. The solution which emerged was to separate out a small group from the main body of the Thai police force; those who could speak and understand the common language of English. Thus the concept of the Tourist Police came about.

And then to supplement this, it eventually became necessary to thoughtfully recruit foreigners into an integrated ‘Thai Tourist Police Volunteers’ force, as an extra arm of the Tourist Police. The motivation of such volunteers is multifaceted; but it makes total sense for a collection of foreigners, all of different nationalities, to mingle amongst gatherings and be on duty at Walking Streets or generally on call, or anytime there’s an occasion involving the police, tied-in with a communications breakdown.

Those who step forward for the Volunteer Service come from all backgrounds, and generally express a desire to give something back to the community. The one requirement is that they need to be resident here, have a spotless non-criminal record,

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and be able to prove both aspects. The training is mainly concerned with protocol and record keeping, but it’s a measure of the placid life style here that, firstly they don’t need to go around in pairs like they do in some other cities, and secondly that nearly all of their activities are involved with advising about lost passports or documents, or directing lost tourists towards their resort or to the nearest toilets! And yes, with helping to sort out those inevitable road accidents, too.

You’re probably aware that in the last couple of years the Thai police force has been the subject of speculation in the international media, with accusations of corruption and bribery being flung around like confetti. It’s

significant that nothing of this nature has been reported in either Chiang Mai or Samui, and it’s noteworthy that both of these getaways are the exact opposite of the high-energy, high-throughput, 24-hour lifestyle of the other two resorts.

In fact, should you have the misfortune be involved with the police whilst you are on Samui, the chances are that you’ll find the officers straightfaced – but thoroughly courteous and professional. And should you feel in any way that the situation is beyond your grasp, that’s when you can quickly call on the Tourist Police to come to your aid. You can either dial them direct, using the number at the bottom of this page, or else politely

ask one of the attendant police officers if they’d do this for you – they’ll understand what you’re asking, and no doubt be relieved to have some help with the communication and translation.

The Tourist Police are here solely to help you, so when you need them, don’t hesitate to call. Or for less urgent matters you can visit them at their office in Samui Town Centre, which is located between the Bophut traffic lights and Tesco Lotus on the ring-road.

Rob De Wet ___________________________________ To contact the tourist police, call 1155.

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CHEERS TO SKÅL! A look at one of Samui’s longest running networking and friendship groups – Skål International.

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In order to understand what Skål International is all about, it helps to take a look at The Michelin Guide. Today it is associated almost entirely with good food and those coveted Michelin Stars. But that’s not how it all began. For this, we have to go back to the early days of motoring.

In those days, motor cars were unreliable and kept breaking down.

The French tyre manufacturer, Michelin, organised a map that showed all the places where motorists could find repairs, and the locations of car mechanics, hotels and petrol stations. The association grew into a French motorists club, with members always able and willing to extend their hospitality and help others. And from these beginnings, it spread throughout Europe.

The roots of Skål International can be traced back to a similar kind of origin, but in this case relating to the emergence of global tourism.

(Although it has to be said that today Skål has vastly surpassed anything that Michelin went on to achieve – Skål has spread throughout the world whereas Michelin, by its very nature, is still mainly rooted in Europe.)

However, back in the early 1930s, the concept of world tourism was still very much in its infancy; such travel was at that time strictly limited to the upper classes.

The first tentative group was formed after the joint Swedish and French air service began between Stockholm and Paris, in 1932. A group of travel professionals from the French capital were invited to make an exploratory flight, and the welcome they received in Stockholm led to many friendships. Those who had made the trip were determined to cement this relationship, and the Paris group was formed shortly afterwards to “support the creation of goodwill and friendship in travel and transportation circles throughout the world.”

Over the next two years, twelve other clubs in five countries had also emerged, and the idea arose to unite them all into one international organisation. Thus the ‘Association Internationale des Skål Clubs 96 l www.samuiholiday.com

(A.I.S.C.)’ was created on 28th April 1934. Today Skål International has approximately 20,000 members in 480 clubs throughout 89 countries.

Most of these club’s activities occur at a local level, moving up through National Committees, under the umbrella of Skål International, at their headquarters in Spain. And every year a Skål World Congress is held in a different country so that members can see for themselves the different opportunities and practices which are in place in that nation.

Tourism came comparatively late to Thailand, and it wasn’t until 1956 when national and international representatives from the hospitality industry joined to form the first of Thailand’s Skål clubs in Bangkok.

This rapidly attracted more members, and it didn’t take long before interest had spread outwards to the cities of Pattaya and Chiang Mai. The movement continued to gain momentum, eventually leading to an amalgamated Thailand National Committee, which now has added Phuket, Samui, Songkhla/Hadyai and, most recently, Hua Hin. The Samui branch of Skål International has been in place for more than 10 years now, and has tended to remain constant at between 30 to 35 members, ranging from resort and spa owners and managers, through to travel publishers and international tour operators. Members keep in touch through a series of regular monthly dinners in local resorts or restaurants (owned or managed by fellow members), and it’s the ideal platform to catch up with news or get together for ideas, entertainment or support.

“Doing business with friends” is how Skål Samui’s President, Michael Biedermann, puts it. “It’s an opportunity to meet, greet and chat,” he continued. “But the entire Skål organisation is what you want to make it.

Its worldwide resources are there if you need them. And, indeed, various members have availed themselves of these international contacts in the past.”

Samui is a small island and there is already an established set of philanthropic support structures that include The Rotary Club, Thai Hotel’s

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Association and Sisters On Samui, amongst others. Skål Samui doesn’t have the local clout that some of these organisations have.

Even so, the group has donated to local schools and charities and are currently working towards an island-wide road safety drive. And it’s very much the fact that Samui is small which makes the Skål group so useful. We don’t have the same spread of geography that’s found in Phuket or Pattaya, and there just aren’t the same opportunities to pop out, meet up, mix and socialise, bumping into both friends and colleagues as you go. So, for example, a new resort manager, coming to the island for the first time, is more likely to feel isolated here than in the other big tourist areas. That’s where Skål’s networking becomes so valuable – there’s an established support system already in place to welcome new faces and show them the ropes.

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And, as Michael Biedermann says, it’s what you want to make of it. Skål members have got together with international counterparts and arranged chef exchanges – a recent one featured a South African chef and his cuisine. And any member who seeks to establish such an international connection will be more than welcome to explore such an avenue, even to the extent of being accommodated by his counterpart abroad. It’s an international network not only of friendship, but of mutual business interaction, too.

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But the core of the organisation remains essentially philanthropic, meaning that members who find themselves in unexpected trouble of any sort have somewhere to turn to for help or advice. The Florimond Volckaert Fund (named after the first president of Skål) was created for just such contingencies. Members in the past have been helped because of unexpected redundancies or medical emergencies, even repatriation from countries where civil strife has suddenly erupted. And each of the 20,000 members has a small part of his annual subscription set aside to contribute to this lifesaver.

Business through friendship: an admirable way to go about life.

And a useful and worthwhile organisation is at the heart of it all.

So let’s hope that the next time the Samui chapter gets together, we’ll hear a resounding “Skål” as they lift their glasses in an ongoing toast to the group!

Rob De Wet ___________________________________

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GO IN, GO UP! Samui isn’t just sun, sand and sea – there’s a whole other world if you just head inland.

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Traditionally Samui’s thrust towards tourism has placed a lot of value on the fact that we’re an island. There are palm-fringed beaches and white sand. The sunset cocktail on the beach has become an institution in its own right. There are a hundred scuba outfits offering their services.

There are boat trips of every description from sunset cruises to luxury yacht charter. But there’s one genre that’s yet to emerge. And that’s the organised tour that takes you inland. Certainly, there are organised temple excursions or trips to the aquarium or tiger zoo. But, these aside and bowing to our geography, on Samui ‘in’ also means up.

Yes, you will find several trips that take you away from the seaside. But mostly these fall into the ‘adventure’ category, heading off-road on a jungle safari or a rented quad bike, or abseiling on zip lines from tree to tree. There’s nothing of a calm and placid nature. True, you can wobble about on the back of a jumbo for half an hour and take in a local waterfall, but that’s not really what I’m getting at. If you want a leisurely look at what’s really inland – and there are a great many attractions, not least the amazing views – then you have to do it yourself.

I have to stress a point here: the weather in many places outside Thailand means that few people are used to riding on a motorbike.

Okay, so the ones here are scooters with auto gear-changes, but that’s not the issue. The local people ride instinctively – in more senses than just one. Even the 10 year-olds, who’ve never even heard of the Highway Code or seen a licence, can do wheelies and go home from school with four on one bike. There are fifty thousand of them, all around in every direction, and just one of you. So rent a four-wheel-drive Suzuki jeep instead.

And then take a few gentle afternoon trips around to get the feel of it. On the flat somewhere, learn how to engage the 4WD; there might be the odd steep bit where it’ll come in handy, so learn how it works before you need it. The only thing missing now is the excellent Samui Guide Map or Samui Island Map. Take a close look in conjunction with this article, as there are really only three main access areas to the interior and you’ll need to know where they are and how they all link together.

Something to bear in mind: once you get off the ring-road and into the uphill side-roads, a great many of these little streets join up sideways.

Thus, it’s possible to head up the mountain somewhere in the region of Maenam’s Santiburi Beach Resort and, keeping in a southerly direction, eventually end up in Lamai. Similarly, if going inland and uphill from the Lamai region, there are several leisurely day-trips of waterfalls and viewpoints that’ll put you back on the ring-road anywhere from Nathon to Maenam.

Probably one little area that has the greatest variety of things to see is uphill of that part of the ring-road near the ‘mummified monk’ at Wat Khunaram. Almost directly opposite this temple, there’s a road running up into the mountains. Passing Ban Chang elephant trekking, which is worth a stop, this is quite a new road, wide and level. And you can now follow it all the way up to one of the island’s most beautiful spots, the Secret Buddha Garden. This is quite astonishing: an entire landscape of large sculptures, beautifully set over quite a wide, shady area, all made by a local fruit farmer, Khun Nim Thongsuk, who began building the garden back in 1976m when he was a mere 77 years old. And you can take refreshment at the nearby Mountain Grand View Restaurant that’s almost right next door. At which point you have a choice.

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If you keep heading north, you’ll eventually end up in Maenam, having hit some of the highest parts of Samui and taken in some of the most spectacular views in all of Thailand. Or you can cruise around the general area, where there are lots of interlinked side roads. This is the part of the island where there are most waterfalls and, although none of them are particularly big, they’re all delightfully shady and cool.

Namuang 2 Waterfall is just downhill from the Mountain Grand View Restaurant, and following the road further will bring you to Namuang Safari Park with its elephant trekking and crocodile farm, leading down a little more to the bigger spectacle of Namuang 1 Waterfall.

Another pleasant alternative is to head inland on the crossroads marked road 4172, that’s just south of Nathon. This has another little elephant trekking station and will lead up to Hin Lad waterfall, after which you can hook to the right and wend your way southwards towards the Secret Buddha Garden in the area that’s already been mentioned. Or, indeed, you could continue on up and over, bearing down to your left, past Canopy Adventures and stop for a break at the View Top Restaurant before drifting down towards Soi 5 in Maenam.

This is one of the nice things about heading for the interior; there are so many alternative little routes to take. There are lots of different permutations. And the best thing of all? You won’t get lost. You can’t.

There’s no way you’ll end up in the middle of nowhere. You might not know quite where you are, but that’s not the same thing. Just keep heading downwards, and you’ll end up back on the ring-road. Once you’ve plucked up the courage to ‘go in and go up’, it’s the only place left to go!

Rob De Wet

Thank you for your reviews that have made us...

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ADVENTURING UP Chaweng is more than just one road – we explore upwards, to Chaweng Bay View and Yupa’s restaurant.

What do you do? After the jet lag has worn off and you’ve had a day or two by the pool? You’ve calmed down and settled in, enjoyed the cocktails and the restaurant. Now what? Well, it’s what everyone does, every time. You go outside to look around and see what’s what. To get a feel for the lie of the land. Check out the shops and the restaurants. Saunter down the road to explore. And there we have it! In Chaweng, there’s only one road. And most of it is end-to-end shopping and eating.

Chaweng Beach Road will keep you busy for weeks.

However, it’s just too easy to stay on the straight and narrow. But this means you’ll miss some real gems – the great places that aren’t right out in plain view. Places that are down a side street or up the hill.

Restaurants and resorts that are special, but tucked away, out of sight. There are quite a few like this.

And one of the most scenic is Chaweng Bay View, up at the very northern end of the beach road.

It’s not instantly obvious quite where this resort is located. It doesn’t have a big broad frontage. But if you keep an eye out for the large and obvious entrance to Nora Beach Resort (just about the last resort on the beach side of the road) then you can’t miss the entrance to Chaweng Bay View that’s directly across the road from it. The resort is terraced scenically up the hillside here, and there’s a small road that goes all the way up to the top, where the restaurant is situated.

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The owner, Khun Yupa Khumprom, opened the resort almost 16 years ago now, as a kind of idyllic retreat that was close to all that action but not right in the midst of it all. She’s a perceptive woman, a true Samui island local, and has a long history of business enterprise here. It was Khun Yupa who opened Samui’s first-ever disco, way back in 1987 (the Flamingo, in Lamai). And she also was responsible for the famous Gallery Layafette in Chaweng, the first of the island’s art studios, of which there are now many imitators. And she’s not content to hit and run, either. Meaning that not only has Chaweng Bay View been continually upgraded and kept up to date, but now guests have a choice of the resort or the exclusive Yupa 1 and Yupa 2 private villas up in Bophut Hills.

These are really quite something! Anybody reading this, who’s thinking it might be an idea to stay here next time in a group, will need to look at them in detail. Villa 1 has no less than five bedrooms and is fitted and kitted to a high standard. The same with the three-bedroom Villa 2 – and both are available for monthly rentals on long term or short-term holiday contracts.

But, as already hinted at, the accommodation at the resort is of an equally impressive standard. There’s a wider range of bungalow styles, from the 36 square-metre Superior Regency Villas, to the 72 square-metre Royal Pavilion Executive Suites. The decor is Thai-style, with traditional fabrics, prints and objet d’art. But the technology is bang up to date, with air-conditioning, a flat screen TV with satellite channels, a mini-bar and fridge, plus a large covered terrace. Some of the larger bungalows also have an outdoor Balinese-style rain shower or Jacuzzi.

And there are two more very strong selling points! The first is that, not only is it pleasantly peaceful up here, but the views are exceptional, overlooking a huge sweep of Chaweng Bay and the nearby island of Koh Matlang, yet only a few minutes’ walk from the beach down

below. And the second is that the rates are surprisingly reasonable. You can expect to pay a lot less than you would for something smaller and less tranquil in the middle of Chaweng, starting from around 2,000 per night, depending on the season and what discount offers are available online.

The best measure of any resort is the give-away comments to be found on TripAdvisor. All of these are positive, and a number of them revealing.

Such as one comment that praised the staff for their helpfulness, and their spontaneous offers to help their children up the hill on a motorbike. Likewise, the glowing report on the service in the restaurant, with non-standard dishes being quickly supplied with no problems at all.

And, talking of the restaurant, you’ll find that it boasts the most commanding views of all, being situated right at the top of the hill. This is also where you’ll find the huge flat terrace that also hosts the swimming pool, plus a children’s paddling pool, and a broad dining and social deck. The chef here, Khun Tao, is an authority on the varied facets of Western cuisine, and also a specialist in the mild and creamy southern Thai dishes, which are a specialty of the restaurant.

The other star feature is the seafood. Unlike so many of the main-road eateries that display their seafood embedded in ice, out in front, the seafood here is fresh. (Didn’t you ever wonder what happens to all that iced-up seafood at the end of the night?) And that comes back again to Khun Yupa being part of a long-standing local family. Which means that the cousins and in-laws who are fishermen automatically give her the pick of their catch each

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morning – every morning. And you can opt for this prepared in a number of ways, barbecued, steamed, deep fried or Thai-style with a choice of different curries. Oh – did I say? The name of the restaurant is simply . . .‘Yupa’s’!

So there you go! It’s your choice. You can spend your time, down on the flat, eating out in the hustle and bustle along Chaweng Beach Road every night. Or you can take to the skies, in the clean, clear tranquility of Yupa’s restaurant. It’s not so far to go – if you decide to go adventuring upwards!

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With these qualities, it’s not hard to see why the children at SCL are achieving so much A warm welcome is extended to anyone who wishes to visit the school

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__________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7741 4069-71. www.chawengbayviewsamui.com

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HOLY ORDERS Do’s and don’ts when visiting a temple.

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You’re on holiday in a hot tropical country – a time to bring out your shorts and sundresses and soak up a few rays. That’s fine when exploring the shops along the streets or walking on the beach, but what about inside a temple? Here are some rules to keep in mind when visiting a temple so as not to cause offence.

1. Attire - Please take care in how you dress when visiting a temple. This is a place of worship, and as such you should politely respect the dress code. For everyone this means covered torsos and shoulders. If you are a planning a day of sightseeing keep this in mind – for women you can always take a scarf/shawl along with you to throw over your spaghetti strap t-shirt, and keep the skimpy shorts or miniskirts for other occasions.

You should wear pants or skirts that at least cover the knees. If you have long loose pants or a long cotton skirt, that’s even better. Incredibly I have seen people in swim wear wandering around temple grounds. A temple is not a place to show off your new bikini.

2. Footwear – Remove your shoes before entering any temple building.

Flip flops or other slip on shoes make this quite effortless.

3. Respect - Turn off your mobile phone and remove any headphones you may be using. Do not chew gum or smoke in the temple grounds. Show

respect to the Buddha statues and the temple surroundings by bowing your head.

4. Pointing - Do not point to any statue, monk or nun, as it’s considered very rude. And if you are sitting, never point your feet at a Buddha image or another person. If you wish to point something out to someone then use your hand with the palm turned upwards.

5. Quiet - You may see some people meditating or quietly offering up prayers to some of the statues. Respect this and also lower your voice in these areas. Even if you don’t think people are meditating they may still be doing so; this is a place of worship after all. You should also avoid inappropriate conversations in these areas.

6. Affection - You may be on your honeymoon or with your partner but please refrain from public displays of affection in the temple. It’s not appropriate for a place of worship - leave it until outside the grounds.

7. Stand Up - If you are sitting in a hall, and a monk or nun comes in to worship, then please stand up to show respect, and only sit again once they have left the hall or if invited to do so.

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8. Leaving - When leaving a hall never turn your back on the Buddha image and always back away towards the door.

9. Children - Talk to your child about the temple rules before visiting, such as no running, no shouting and definitely no climbing up on the statues.

10. Touching - Do not touch any statue or monk or nun that you see. Try to keep your head below theirs if you can, as this shows respect.

11. Buddha Images - A great deal of respect must be afforded to Buddha statues. When approaching a statue show respect by bowing your head. If you would like to take a picture that is fine, but try to keep your head below the statue – it’s best to kneel in this case to take a picture.

Not all Buddha images are to be found in temples, and alas they’re often not treated as religious objects. With regard to Buddha images, there is currently a campaign underway to show more respect towards them and to Buddhism in general. It is seen as irreverent to use the Buddha’s image in degrading ways such as a plant pot holder, or as a picture hanging above a bed in a hotel. It is also seen as disrespectful to

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use a Buddha head as an ornament in a house. Such statues and images are only intended for shrines and not for decoration.

The campaign is called 5000s.org. Their aim is to teach people to once again respect the Buddha. The Buddha image should not be used for decoration on T-shirts, or as tattoos. They should not be used as decorative items in the home, so don’t place Buddha statues on, say, the coffee table in the middle of your living room.

Don’t be tempted because it’s the trendy thing to do. Show some respect and try to remember that Buddhism is a religion and a way of life, not a fashion statement.

Buddhism is followed by some 500 million adherents all over the world. Those who create Buddha images intend to inspire people to think of Buddha and his teachings. So if you feel that Buddha images help you feel peace and harmony then by all means place a Buddha statue properly in your house, with respect, by placing the statue or image at a high level from the floor. Buddha images should also not be placed in a bathroom, either in picture form or as a statue, and this also applies to all bars and restaurants. You can find out more on their website at 5000s.org.

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In conclusion, you wouldn’t go into a church at home in a bikini so don’t do it here. Nor would you have Christ’s head on your coffee table. The Thais, just like any other nationality, expect visitors to show respect. Don’t be tempted to make light of Buddha images just because everyone else seems to have, or it’s the trendy thing to do. Buddhism is a religion not a fashion. As a visitor, always remember to show some respect. You’ll be respected in turn for doing so.

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ONWARDS AND UPWARDS Nora Beach Resort & Spa Koh Samui has a brand new look.

Resorts are a bit like Swiss watches. They’re hopefully beautiful to look at, efficient and provide total reliability. But there’s more to it than that.

Neither the watch nor the resort should ever come to a standstill – both should be steadily progressing forwards. But, of course, no matter how perfect your Swiss watch is there are a few times when it has to come to a halt. Just occasionally – hopefully not often – it has to be overhauled and certain parts replaced or made new. And it’s exactly the same for a resort.

Nora Beach temporarily closed last year during part of November and December. Once the last guests had checked out, whole teams came into the property and started refurbishing it. In a resort, every square inch of space is important. At the very least, it has to be spotlessly clean and stylish, and in keeping with the rest of the property. No easy task, and if the hotel’s undertaking big changes, it’s not just a question of having a few discreet work people nipping into the rooms and making them look superficially okay. There’s a lot that needs to be done.

So the management decided to close the hotel during the low season and roll up their collective sleeves and get to work. Plans had been afoot for months; now the time had come to implement them. So, what were the results?

Rooms were all upgraded and given a facelift, so to speak. What have emerged are contemporary style rooms that are very pleasing to the eye.

And, of course, they’re easy to use. For example, new wardrobes were installed with better mirrors, and all the furniture changed. Bathrooms all had their bathtubs taken out and state-of-the-art showers plumbed in; each has a rain-water attachment as well as the usual shower head. And it really does feel like standing in the rain, with the important difference that you can control the temperature. The bathroom now has a tempered glass wall, too, and all sanitary ware has been changed and upgraded.

You’ll also find a marble counter for the washbasin. Taking a simple shower is rarely this fun, and you’ll probably want to bask here for a lot longer than you would in most hotels.

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For the beds, the resort has put in new headboards and bed liners, and sofas and cushions are all designed in a more contemporary style. Last but certainly not least, when it comes to evening, you’ll enjoy the new lighting system, which can be made as soft and gentle as you wish, or bright if you have to catch up on work.

Nora Beach prides itself on its stylish swimming pool and this naturally was also a focus for the design team’s attention. It might have looked perfect before, but they thought it could be better still. They turned it from a chlorinated pool into a salt-water one, giving the water a much softer feel to it, and one that’s entirely natural. The tiling was also changed, and the wooden decking surrounding the pool was changed to concrete.

At Nora Beach, the swimming pool is a major draw, being on the generous side. The beach and restaurant are both within a stone’s throw. The pool also includes a smaller one for children and a Jacuzzi. Guests also love the swim-up bar, where they can sit and drink without leaving the pool itself. But perhaps one of the greatest assets of the pool has nothing to do with layout or architecture or design. It’s the staff here. They’re really attentive and as soon as you need them, they’re there for you. Nothing’s too much effort. If you want an extra towel, or some food, or just a fruit shake, they’ll be happy to help you.

This same attitude is repeated wherever you go in the resort; staff are extraordinarily friendly and helpful. Take the restaurant, Prasuthon, for example. It’s a place that doesn’t rest on its laurels but aims to maximise its guests’ enjoyment of food and drink.

Service here is also exceptionally good.

The restaurant hasn’t changed as such, but a lot of thought has gone into making it the perfect place to eat. It opens very early

Daily Theme Nights From 7pm.

Monday Classical Thai Night Buffet - THB 590 Tuesday Catch of the Day - from THB 250 Wednesday Italian Night Buffet - THB 490 Thursday Steak Supreme - from THB 300 Friday Beach BBQ Buffet featuring live music and a fire juggling show - THB 690 Saturday Surf & Turf - THB 790 Sunday Roast Chicken Sunday - THB 390 Daily Happy Hours at Beach Bar Buy 1 get 1 free beers and cocktails from 12pm - 2pm l 5pm - 7pm l 9pm - Midnight Sentinel Band Enjoy music from the Sentinel Band - Monday to Saturday from 7pm – 10pm Dining on the Beach Moonlight beach dining with your own private chef, from THB 1,500 per person

Chaweng Noi Beach

Tel. 077 448 994

info.kohsamui@impiana.com www.impiana.com

in the morning to serve an amazingly varied buffet-style breakfast, featuring dozens and dozens of items. It has to cater for the many different nationalities that stay here and judging from the way everyone tucks into the breakfast they’ve chosen, guests seem very happy with the fare here. You’ll find all kinds of fruit, as well as muesli and cereals; a plethora of different kinds of bread and spreads to go with them – anything from feta cheese to jams – and an on-hand chef who’ll take your order for eggs. Which style? Any that you care to choose, including omelettes. Speciality teas and coffees are de rigueur here and once again you’ll be spoiled for choice.

Prasuthon offers all-day dining, but when evening comes, inhouse guests and people from outside the hotel head here for delicious dinners. The menu is à la carte and features both Thai and International dishes. A well-stocked wine cabinet also awaits you and staff are on hand to make suggestions. By the way, if you wish to eat here and are coming to Nora Beach from Chaweng, it couldn’t be easier to find: simply head north out of Chaweng along the beach road, go past Samui International Hospital, and you’ll see it just over a kilometre later, on your right.

Particularly recommended are the theme nights. Every Tuesday you can enjoy a Thai Dinner Buffet, while on Thursdays you can partake of the excellent East Meets West Buffet. You’ll need to make reservations for these, however. Both evenings feature entertainment, and you may find yourself thrilled by Polynesian fire dancers, for example, or by a troupe of traditional Thai dancers, with a band featuring traditional instruments, such as the ranaat or bamboo

xylophone or the delicate sound of the phin, a 4-string lute. Guests love these evenings, and often join in with the Thai dancing. The food itself is wonderful, and just as with breakfast, there’s so much to choose from that you would never be able to sample everything in one sitting.

With so much to enjoy about Nora Beach, it’s not surprising guests return again and again. And now that it’s been refurbished and has re-opened its doors, those who come back now find themselves in a resort that’s even better than it was before.

Dimitri Waring

_______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information telephone 0 7742 9400. www.norabeachresort.com

Tiny Steps Nursery and Pre-School Tiny Steps Nursery and Pre-School is committed to providing a warm, safe, secure, friendly and fun environment for children 2-6 years old.

Activity led structured learning 500 metres off Samui Ring Road near Bophut traffic light

Tel: 0 7742 6941, www.samuitinysteps.com

PERFECTLY PRANA One of the best small resorts on Samui has just become delightfully better!

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How many times have you been on holiday? For most people visiting here, the answer is ‘lots’. But if you then asked these people how many truly lovely resorts they’ve stayed in, then they’d undoubtedly answer ‘not many’. Most hotels and resorts are pretty good. But that’s the trouble.

They’re all pretty good; therefore none of them stands out – a few years later they’re hard to recall. Over on the north coast of the island, on the edge of Bangrak, lies Prana. It’s always been worthy of mention – pretty good all round. But now it’s unforgettable.

And this is the result of a two-year extended building project that has completely remodelled the entire place. Before, Prana was a compact-but-pleasant upmarket resort, right on the beach and with an exceptional restaurant. Now it’s something quite different. It’s split itself across the narrow beach road onto a beautifully designed split-level site with garden and pool villas and an exceptional restaurant. And an exceptional spa. And with an exceptional . . . well, it’s all quite exceptional, really! But, in truth, it’s not really ‘Prana’ any more.

Prana Hotels and Resorts is a small and select group of exclusive boutique resorts located in Sri Lanka, Turkey and Thailand. At one time, the Samui venue was more-precisely known as Prana Beach Resort. Then it cloned itself across the road in the form of a characterful and selfcontained resort. And now, to be exact, we have Prana Beach Villas on the sea side of things. And Prana Nandana Resort on the other side.

You’ll no doubt read quite a lot of reviews while you’re here – if not while browsing online then certainly in some of the many free publications.

And probably they’ll all waffle-on in the sunny and enthusiastic way that we island writers tend to favour. Indeed, I confess that I’ve written many myself in just such a similar vein. But this is one time I mean every word.

And, just as some resorts are good but forgettable, you really need to drift over to Prana to see it for yourself. Because it’s truly in the other category. If you’re lucky enough to be staying there, you’ll know exactly what I mean. But even if you only come for a meal, it’s one of those rare and exceptional places you’re never going to forget.

A large part of this is to do with the styling. And that’s the point – the architect here has avoided falling towards any convenient and existing style. Here, looking over and into Prana Nandana from across the road, the styling defies a definition – it’s completely individual. The huge, lofty, domed roof above the prominent reception area looks almost woven, like some kind of basketwork African kraal built around a frame of immense bent sticks; even the actual wooden tilework on the dome isn’t symmetrical, it twists and shifts its planes from one support pole to the next, like the fabric stretched on a tepee.

And this isn’t just a one-off; the ‘twisty wooden frame’ motif keeps popping up inside, too, looking like big driftwood ladders placed here and there. And all this ties in with the liberal and decorative use of slabs

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of weathered timber that are a part of the overall concept. The central ‘courtyard’ that’s taken up by the pool has been sculpted into several split levels, not only imaginatively breaking up the space, but also allowing the use of a couple of tons of beach sand in two or three areas, making it all quite mischievously ‘seaside’ in feel!

There are more than 60 rooms and suites here, all similarly designed and kitted out to an exceptional standard, a number of them with panoramic sea views (particularly the superlative elevated Nandana Suite at the front). But of particular interest are the delightful ‘pool’ and ‘garden’ rooms. Wendy Phay, the resort’s General Manager points out that “. . . these have all been designed to be comfortably private in feel, with the garden rooms each having their own discrete little walled patch of lawn with flower borders. And the pool rooms are in demand as they actually have sun-loungers in the water, on a shallow ledge at the outer edge of each balcony.”

If you haven’t already picked up on the vibes, this is a really cosy and romantic resort, and it’s already proved popular with couples holidaying here to tie the knot. As well as having the best of both worlds – either a ceremony on the beach or the option of enclosed air-conditioning – there’s ‘Sea’ and ‘Breeze’, the two big banqueting rooms which can open out into one imposing and fully-equipped space, with seating for 100 guests and still room enough for a DJ and dance floor. But families with children haven’t been forgotten either, as there’s also a supervised playroom, and babysitters are available in the evenings, should they be required.

The Amezcua Spa is simply out of this world – utterly tranquil, due to another outbreak of the resident design-flair, with glowing earth tones and a maze of adorable cubby-spaces and treatment rooms that have the same cosy feeling as a smaller version of the tepee at reception!

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And there are massage/treatment rooms for couples as well as singles, lending themselves once again to the togetherness bias of a legendary romantic getaway.

And to top it all off, a gourmet restaurant, of course! Up top and under the stars there’s ‘Zama’ rooftop kitchen and bar. Here the gastronomic wonderment is created by Martin Selby, featuring intriguing Thai fusion, side by side with exceptional Euro-style fine dining with a rustic leaning. The cocktails demand a whole story all by themselves and are designed, engineered – cocktailed even – by Damien Ahearn.

Although Prana Nandana only ‘opened’ recently, it didn’t actually do that from scratch. It re-invented itself. And it’s emerged from its cocoon to become something simply splendid – Prana perfected, in fact!

Rob De Wet ___________________________________

KHAO SOK

The Cliff and River Jungle Resort

Come and Relax with us at The Cliff and River Jungle Resort in magnificent Khao Sok. Enjoy the natural beauty and fresh air at this Scenic Riverside location.

Sightseeing Info - Canoeing - International Restaurant Luxury Recreation Facilities - Elephant Trekking

for more information and reservation please call 0 872 718 787, 0 812 721 221, 0 7791 3050 Fax. 0 7791 3099 www.thecliffandriver.com

P. CHAWENG GUEST HOUSE

100 ISLANDS RESORT

Located at the end of Soi Colibri, opposite Centara Grand Beach Resort.

Thai owned and managed, offering the beauty of Thai style architecture combined with European comforts.

The first boutique hotel in Suratthani.

Reasonably priced with friendly service and a family atmosphere. Relax by the pool or ease your tensions at the luxurious spa.

For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7724 6362 www.pranaresorts.com

Recommended by Lonely Planet

Tel.: 0 7723 0684

Tel.: 0 7720 1150-8

HOWLING AT THE M ON Karaoke – the drinking man’s passport to dreams of fame and stardom.

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Is there anyone in the Western world who has not seen that classic movie ‘The Blues Brothers’? (Well, anyone who’s not in love with Justin Bieber or too busy being a badass gangsta, that is.) Remember the scene where the band has to play in a redneck country-music bar? As soon as they get started, the whole room erupts in anger, there are shouts and jeers and screams of “Booo! Get off!” and the air is full of flying bottles.

It’s amusing. But not many folks realise just how symbolic this scene is.

Because here, in just a three-minute video clip, is revealed the essential difference between western and eastern culture and attitude.

Once upon a time if you wanted to sing, it was together with a group of real live people playing instruments. That, or you went down the path of righteousness, learned to play an acoustic guitar, and then held forth soulfully about your problems. Either way your stance was the same; you with your back against the wall, facing a whole bunch of people watching your every move (with or without flying bottles). The idea was

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a little bit scary. It took courage. And that’s why, even today, although every young person dreams about it, very few actually get up and do it.

But it’s a powerful dream, one that’s all tangled up with the turbulence of adolescent angst and sexual stirrings, and it never quite goes completely away.

But when karaoke came along, it changed everything. Now you could sing to your heart’s desire. All those forgotten and buried teenage longings for fame, freedom, stardom, approval and love vibrated up to the surface in sympathy with this new and easy idea. Plus, don’t forget, back then karaoke wasn’t established, and it didn’t have the same sort of format as it now has in the West. It began as a private sort of thing (as it mostly remains in Japan), shared with a few close friends or associates.

You didn’t need the libido boost of alcohol to get you going, although the more you drank most certainly the better you got!

KAYAKING Explore the caves and beaches of the Angthong National Marine Park Offices located behind Bondi Pub in central Chaweng and on Chaweng Lake Road opposite Lake View For reservations please call 0 7730 0615 or 0 878 866 097

www.bluestars.info

The whole landslide began with a pebble by the name of Daisuke Inoue, an in-and-out-of-work Japanese musician who made ends meet by playing keyboard in a local bar. One day a regular customer, a businessman, came across to ask him for a favour.

He had an important meeting in a few days and knew that they’d all head off to a drinking establishment afterwards. He wanted to impress his clients by how well he could sing, and he asked Daisuke to help him prepare for this. So the musician sat at his keyboard and recorded the music to all the songs, trying different keys and pitches that might suit the guy’s voice. A few days later, the businessman came back beaming, and asked if Daisuke could record some more songs for him. And at that moment the idea for the ‘8 Juke’ was born – you’d put money into a machine with a microphone, speaker and amplifier, and it would play the music you wanted to sing.

The idea took off like a rocket. By 1972, Daisuke’s company was selling these 8-track amplified one-piece units at the equivalent price today of over $5,000. He made 25,000 units in that year, and a lot more the following year, with first Osaka, then Tokyo, and then the whole of Japan getting caught up in this new craze. To begin with, it was simply an added attraction to existing bars. But very quickly the advantages of dedicated ‘karaoke clubs’ became apparent. Here you’d find a number of comfortable and soundproofed ‘VIP’ rooms, each separate from the other, but connected to the bar and kitchen by telephone. You sang from the comforting gloom of your seat, you ordered food and drinks as they were needed, then you sang and drank some more.

But when the idea eventually landed in the West, it had changed shape.

Now the context was less than private, with venues being bars and pubs, and with the singer on a stage facing an audience. This inevitably led to confident and tuneful performances by singers who could sing, and this became the expected norm, with disapproval being expressed

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(Blues Brothers style) for those who couldn’t. But not so in Asia. Here the genre was established, and a visit to a karaoke club became a therapeutic and addictive sounding-off to be revelled in at least a couple of times a week.

And then there’s Thailand, which, oddly, falls half way between the two.

Yes, there are karaoke clubs with private rooms (but you’ll have to search for them). More often, you’ll notice wooden sheds, festooned with fairy lights, with a big karaoke jukebox that caters for only the locals. And then there are a thousand other functions, both private and public, from temple fairs to weddings, in the open and behind walls, where there will be an ‘open mike’. And this is where the never-ending aspect of ‘losing face’ enters the picture.

Thai people don’t like to complain. They might express their disapproval in any one of a hundred different passive ways. But they won’t send their food back if it’s cold, or go and moan face-to-face to a neighbour about

Zico's is an electric combination of colourful calypso, vibrant carnival rhythm and dance.

A unique party experience not to be missed! Every night is fiesta night at Zico's.

The beat goes on, and so does the dancing.

Tuck into a superb selection of all you can eat grilled seafood and meats, prepared just for you, complemented by large salad bar.

CHAWENG BEACH : OPPOSITE CENTARA GRAND BEACH RESORT SAMUI T : 077 230 500-10 | E : zicos@chr.co.th Open daily : Bar 17.00 - 01.00 hrs., Restaurant 18.00 - 23.00 hrs.

WWW.CEN TARAHOTELSRESORTS.C OM

his noisy dog or late night party. To do any of these things would be seen to be losing face. And additionally the recipient of the complaint would have lost face for having been criticised. And so, when it comes to karaoke, this gives every wedding guest an open licence to yell their lungs out after a few drinks.

It matters not a jot if you’re tone deaf or if you ‘sing’ on or off the beat, because nobody will chuck bottles at you (not even me) although they might not actually applaud your performance. It’s a teenage heaven. It’s a place where grandfathers become young again, and the young bloods can belt out the latest rock tunes without impediment because the gods are smiling benignly. And that’s the reason why in Thailand, if you’re woken by a werewolf howling at the moon one night – it’s probably only karaoke!

Rob De Wet

SAFE AND SOUND A great opportunity to buy a quality apartment – courtesy of X2 and Nautilus.

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B Smart B Smart Sys. Co., LTD has been providing top level security solutions, lighting control systems, CCTV systems, access control, fire alarms and WiFi solutions since 1999.

B Smart has quickly earned the reputation for being one of the most progressive and innovative system integrators in Thailand.

Along with high quality products and a very knowledgeable work force, you can be confident that B Smart Sys. Co., LTD will meet and exceed your expectations.

Hotline: 0 815 631 685 Email: bsmartsys@gmail.com For Taxi: ร้านตั้งอยู่ตรงข้ามโรงแรมนภาใส แม่น้ำ�

ZAZEN If you are looking for something wonderful and different, Zazen restaurant is the place for you to discover. Their master chef emphasises the use of healthy organic ingredients while infusing dining participation. Zazen is truly one of the most romantic and serene beachside dining restaurants on the island. Every night this charming establishment lights up over 100 candles to set the ambiance for you to experience.

Tel: 077 425 085, 081 737 8771 Email: fb@samuizazen.com Website: www.samuizazen.com

Samui Every conceivable Indian dish is on offer here – and they are all delicious! Conveniently located in Central Chaweng, the restaurant is open from 11:00 am – 11:30 pm.

Buying property in Thailand has traditionally been a cautious venture. Property laws are strict, and the attitude to foreign ownership can deter potential buyers who are used to the security of freeholds. But, gradually, over the years, the suspicions attached to a Thai ‘30-year lease’ have lessened. And, as confidence has grown, so more and more real estate firms have firstly become established, then experienced and trusted. For the last decade or so, the actual process of buying property or land on Samui hasn’t been a problem at all. But today a new aspect has appeared.

And it’s all connected to the way the island’s population has been changing. Up until quite recently, there had always been a slow but steady flow of new residents coming here to live. Many came to retire. Some came for employment. And a very few came here on the off chance they could hustle some kind of a living, purely on speculation. But times have changed. And in the last couple of years, we’ve seen a sudden influx of those who fall onto the latter category. Many have turned to property speculation, and this has led to a bewildering rash of new web sites and companies, some with no investment and working hopefully via commissions, all of them after your money, and every one doing their utmost to look professional and experienced.

For further information, reservations, and take-away orders (free delivery in Chaweng area), telephone 0 7741 3315.

Asia Travel Asia Travel is the most popular travel agency on Koh Samui. Established 15 years ago, they are well known to provide updated travel information reasonably priced for all international and domestic needs. Their second to none consultancy service will help you with all aspects of long or short stay requirements such as visa, work permit or company registration and finances. Asia Travel is well known for their quality services as mentioned in The Lonely Planet.

Tel: 0 7723 6120, 0 7742 1342 Fax: 0 7742 1185 Email: asia_int@samart.co.th For Taxi: ร้านตั้งอยู่ที่ถนนหน้าทอน

Simply the best

Brite Smile

The ‘Nautilus Group’ is actually a new name on the island, too.

But that’s the only new thing about it. It’s cored by three very experienced Europeans, and was re-formed from a previously established local company. And not only are they all highly qualified and time-served in their respective fields, they’re also well aware of all the points raised above. And so, to bolster their credibility and add weight to their presence, they’ve put together a new project that is presented in conjunction with the prestigious X2 group – a well-known and long-established collection of luxury developments and resorts spread throughout Thailand and Indonesia.

The Original BriteSmile Centre from Hollywood’s Professional Teeth Whitening. . One Hour . One Visit . One Dazzling Smile Offering other new services: Painless dentistry, depigmentation with laser and dental implants, as well as a wide range of dental hygiene and care.

Bangkok Samui Dental Clinic Open daily from 9:oo - 20.00 Tel : 0 7742 9500 www.DentalSamui.com

Tel: 0 7742 9500 Website: www.DentalSamui.com For Taxi: ร้านตั้งอยู่ในโรงพยาบาลกรุงเทพ

ถนนรอบเกาะ เฉวง

But, talking about names, we really need to think carefully about such words as ‘Grand’, ‘Deluxe’, and ‘VIP’ – all of which can often be seen in connection with marketing a rectangular floor space not much bigger than a motorway express coach. This is yet another problem tied-in with Samui’s new wave of speculators, some of whom have been known to use the word ‘condo’ to describe anything that’s not standing in its own grounds. However, when Nautilus say ‘apartments’, they’re being perfectly accurate, even to the point of being modest. They could easily have used the word ‘custom’ or even ‘bespoke’ to go with this. Because what this company is building puts much of the competition to shame.

Firstly, the mode of construction is just so right for this part of the world that it’s amazing not everyone does it. In Europe, would you consider buying a house with no insulation and with only single gazing? Of course not – effective insulation is one of the first things you look for. And so, in tropical Thailand, why aren’t the buildings all insulated to keep the rooms cool? Answer: it costs too much. But the Nautilus apartments aren’t built from the usual ten-a-penny concrete blocks; they’ve used highinsulation thermoblocks throughout, additionally lined with 60mm skins of polyurethane foam. And all the glass on the exterior windows and doors is double-layered. With this level of insulation, your air-conditioning will run at a fraction of the usual cost, and conserve energy, too. (Not to mention that you’ll also never, ever hear your neighbours!)

And secondly, the apartments are already all being offered in the construction stage. Partner and Sales Manager, Peter Süle, is enthusiastic about this. “It means that you can tailor the interior layout to exactly the way you want it,” he explained. “If you’re a keen chef, we’ll make you a larger kitchen to your design. If you are more concerned about a studyspace or small office, then we can partition the floor space and adjust the living area. You can even take two adjoining apartments and we’ll combine them into one big luxurious unit. This is something that’s simply not possible if you’re looking for a ready-made turnkey apartment.”

Many people are nervous about this – buying a house or apartment without seeing it finished, ready and waiting. There’s always the thought of “what if . . .?” Of course, this all comes down to money. But the 140 l www.samuiholiday.com

partners are aware of this and so, in association with the X2 Group, they’ve created a payment plan with 25% due on signing the contract and the remainder scheduled in stages over the remaining time of the construction, as and when each agreed stage is reached. Prices begin at only 2.5 million baht for the 50 square metre apartment – and this is notably less than some other local condominiums, despite the superior construction.

An ‘apartment’ is one thing. But the ‘Nautilus Apartments’ go further.

When all is completed, this landscaped and gated development will effectively equate to ‘resort’ standing, complete with security staff, a restaurant with room service, a gym and fitness suite, a housekeeping service, a laundry, plus of course, a swimming pool. All financial and accounting services are conducted by the X2 Group, meaning the process of managing an apartment in your absence will be seamlessly effective – essential if you’re thinking of an investment. The fitted kitchen and bathroom comes included, and there is an additional furnishing package available, if you wish. Even at this stage of development, it’s estimated from experience that in the first year there will be around 6570% lettings, rising to 85-90% over a three-year establishment period.

There are two blocks with 40 apartments in total, ranging from 50 to 82 square metres, the latter being of particular interest, as the four corner apartments on the top levels include a unique roof garden above. The views are spectacular, airy and open, and everything is located in an elevated position on a peaceful hillside in Choeng Mon, only a few minutes from the beach and Chaweng, and little more to Bophut and Fisherman’s Village. To find out more about all this use the contact details below, but don’t hang about – quite a few of the prime units have been snapped up already!

Rob De Wet _______________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 824 274 888 or 0 958 781 711. www.nautilussamui.com

PROPERTY CLASSIFIED

Villa for Rent/Sale - Yupa Villa 1 5 fully furnished bedrooms with air-con throughout. All bedrooms ensuite, one with jacuzzi.

Living area fully furnished with TV and internet. Thai/Western kitchen. Swimming pool, remote control gate, security camera around house, safety box, parking area, garden.

Tel: 0 818 917 912, 0 897 636 032 E-mail: cr@chawengbayviewsamuiresort.com www.chawengbayviewsamuiresort.com

The Estates Samui

Villa for Rent/Sale - Yupa Villa 2

An exclusive and private collection of ultra luxury homes, cradled on a hillside overlooking one of the most pristine stretches of beaches on the island. A mixed-use development, including villa residences and the Four Seasons Hotel. Each villa features a private infinity pool with large sundeck, sunken dining pavilion, spacious living and dining areas, state-of-the-art entertainment and technology, indoor & outdoor bathrooms. Price starts from THB 150 million

3 fully furnished bedrooms with air-con throughout. All bedrooms ensuite, one with jacuzzi.

Living area fully furnished with TV and internet. Thai kitchen.Swimming pool, remote control gate, security cameraaround house, safety box, parking area, garden.

Website: www.theestates-samui.com Email: propertysales@minornet.com Telephone: +66 (0) 8 5484 8752

Profitable Established Business for Sale 18 hole, concrete tracked, mini golf course. Member of the World Mini Golf Federation (one of only 2 in Thailand). 3020 m2 of land including 2 storey house with foreign ownership. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms and 2 extra apartments. Sale includes well established, profitable Thai Limited Company.

Location: Near Choeng Mon Tel: 0 817 879 148, www.minigolfsamui.com

Tel: 0 818 917 912, 0 897 636 032 E-mail: cr@chawengbayviewsamuiresort.com www.chawengbayviewsamuiresort.com

Private real estate with incredible 180-Degree views The actual view from this house is the picture above. This 4-bedroom house has been built according to European standards on 972 sqm. It is centrally located near Nathon and only 500 metres from the main road in a small, warm and tidy community. Priced very competitively, this house is ideal for couples or young families ready to live in paradise.

Price: 8 Million THB only Tel: 0 819 709 632 Email: asiatravel_international@yahoo.com

CHAWENG BEACHLand For Rent Chaweng Beach Road, Chaweng South Land for Rent: 15-20 years Land Size: 30x110m (Beachfront 30m) Currently houses a resort but is perfect for redevelopment.

Contact: Mr. Saroj 081 536 2015 Ms. Siri 088 882 5636 Mr. Wiroj 081 307 2122 E-mail: srn123456@gmail.com sissysiri888@gmail.com mpisit2600@gmail.com

Centara Grand Beach Resort Samui

Chaweng Beach Poppies Resort

Land for rent Kirikayan Boutique Resort

Santib

Santiburi Beach Resort Golf & Spa

Rim Talay Restaurant at Santiburi Beach Resort, Golf & Spa

Premier Pool Villa at Bo Phut Resort & Spa

L'Ocean Beach Restaurant at Bo Phut Resort and Spa

buri Resort

Bo Phut Resort & Spa

FEATURING THE OUTSTANDING 18 HOLE CHAMPIONSHIP GOLF COURSE FOR YOUR PLAYING PLEASURE, THE SANTIBURI GROUP WELCOMES YOU TO EXPERIENCE OUR FINE DINING AND THE HOSPITALITY OF TWO EXCEPTIONAL BEACH RESORT GOLF AND SPA.

12/12 Moo1, Maenam, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84330 Tel: +66 (0) 7742 5031-5 Fax: +66 (0) 7742 5040 E-mail: info@santiburi.com www.santiburi.com

12/12 Moo 1, Bo Phut, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84320 Tel: +66 (0) 7724 5777, +66 (0) 7743 0201 Fax: +66 (0) 7724 5776 Email: info@bophutresort.com www.bophutresort.com

Sales Office: 245/7 Sukhumvit 31, Klongton Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand Tel: +66 (0) 2260 2530-5 Fax: +66 (0) 2260 7570

BEACH GRILL

Take advantage of W Retreat Koh Samui’s enviable location, where the azure waters of Maenam and Bophut meet at our Beach Grill. Sample and savor indulgent bites such as freshly shucked Fin De Claire oysters, delicious BBQ dishes, fresh tossed salads or delectable burgers.

DAILY, 11AM – 5PM

BEACH-BAR-B-Q RELOADED

Stunning views, unparalleled beach, sun beds, palm shadows, chilled drinks, hip tunes! A three-course meal in a chillax atmosphere on W beach features scrumptious starters, a selection of all-you-can-eat luscious grills over the new wood-fired Asador grill (950 THB++), and Halo Halo W Kacang (450 THB++) W’s interpretation of the Asian-wide summer dessert of shaved ice with various toppings.

Tunes from Kelly Kellam, W Music Curator, with regular special guest DJs. EVERY SATURDAY FROM FROM 12:30PM - 4PM

Tel. 66 77 915 999 Email. bf.wkohsamui@whotels.com Explore more: WRETREATKOHSAMUI.COM OR SCAN HERE @WRETREATKOHSAMUI @WKOHSAMUI /WRETREATKOHSAMUI W RETREAT KOH SAMUI