February 2017

SAMUI

www.siamwininganddining.com

FREE COPY

FEBRUARY 2017

Monday: Thai Buffet & Seafood BBQ on the Beach THB 1,200 Net Thursday: International Buffet & Seafood BBQ on the Beach THB 1,400 Net Sareeraya Villas & Suites

Call + 66 (0) 77 914 333 www.sareeraya.com

Love is

All You Need Samui is a romantic little island anyway – but this month everything will be extra special!

The stars above, the whispering sea, a table for two on the beach, low lights, soft music . . . and that’s every night! It’s normal on Samui. There are just so many lovely little restaurants that it’s impossible to list them all. But we try!

And we do our very best to look for those places which are off the beaten track. Those tucked-away gems that you’d otherwise never get to see or enjoy. But this month is even more special!

Breakfast in bed. Strolls along deserted beaches. Flowers, chocolate and lingering glances. And then the highlight; that super-special meal at night. The weather will be blissful, with a sky full of stars and the waves whispering on the beach. And you can be sure that every restaurant, particularly the best ones, will have made an extra-special effort to create something even more romantic than ever, just for you.

This month is the month of love, celebrated across world, and all of it’s centred on one day; St Valentine’s Day. Love knows no limits. It doesn’t matter whether you’re 18 or 80; this is the one day every year when you look forward to pulling out all the stops and showing your partner that they mean the world to you.

This will be the one night of your stay that you don’t just go exploring. You’ll need to plan ahead and book the best, the most memorable, place you can find. And here, happily, we can help you choose!

Enjoy outstanding Thai and European cuisine from our highly experienced, award winning chef beside the golden sands of Chaweng beach.

Perfect for any occasion whether it be dinner with friends or family, or specially set up romantic dinner for two.

At Banana Fan Sea Resort

Chaweng Beach Road Tel: 0 7741 3483-6

E-mail: info@bananafansea.com

www.bananafansea.com

SAMUI

SAMUI

Monday: Thai Buffet & Seafood BBQ on the Beach THB 1,200 Net

www.siamwininganddining.com

FREE COPY

Thursday: International Buffet & Seafood BBQ on the Beach THB 1,400 Net

FEBRUARY 2017

Sareeraya Villas & Suites

Call + 66 (0) 77 914 333 www.sareeraya.com

Love is

All You Need Samui is a romantic little island anyway – but this month everything will be extra special!

The stars above, the whispering sea, a table for two on the beach, low lights, soft music . . . and that’s every night! It’s normal on Samui. There are just so many lovely little restaurants that it’s impossible to list them all. But we try!

And we do our very best to look for those places which are off the beaten track. Those tucked-away gems that you’d otherwise never get to see or enjoy. But this month is even more special!

Breakfast in bed. Strolls along deserted beaches. Flowers, chocolate and lingering glances. And then the highlight; that super-special meal at night. The weather will be blissful, with a sky full of stars and the waves whispering on the beach. And you can be sure that every restaurant, particularly the best ones, will have made an extra-special effort to create something even more romantic than ever, just for you.

This month is the month of love, celebrated across world, and all of it’s centred on one day; St Valentine’s Day. Love knows no limits. It doesn’t matter whether you’re 18 or 80; this is the one day every year when you look forward to pulling out all the stops and showing your partner that they mean the world to you.

This will be the one night of your stay that you don’t just go exploring. You’ll need to plan ahead and book the best, the most memorable, place you can find. And here, happily, we can help you choose!

Enjoy outstanding Thai and European cuisine from our highly experienced, award winning chef beside the golden sands of Chaweng beach.

Perfect for any occasion whether it be dinner with friends or family, or specially set up romantic dinner for two.

At Banana Fan Sea Resort

Chaweng Beach Road Tel: 0 7741 3483-6

E-mail: info@bananafansea.com

www.bananafansea.com

Graeme Malley Editor

Preeda Tuajob (Puy) Graphic Designer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon (Don) Photographer

Seksak Kerdkanno (Klauy) Webmaster

Rob De Wet Feature Writer

Dimitri Waring Feature Writer

Karan Ladd Feature Writer

Peter Jones Feature Writer

Nipawan Chuaysagul (Ning) Sales & Marketing Director ning@siammap.com Tel: 0 898 783 891

Henrik Bjørk Managing Director

Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6, Samui Ring Road, Moo 3, Bo Phut, Samui, 84320 Thailand Tel: (66) 0 7742 2201 Fax: (66) 0 7741 3523 email: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission from Siam Map Company Ltd. Whilst every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. c Siam Map Company Ltd. 2017

Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways.

Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com

Please recycle or pass on to a friend.

Fresh local fish and seafood, cooked in authentic Thai way by the owner Supattra.

Great international wines!

Just a few tables in an open Thai sala style restaurant facing a mangrove forest.

Tel. 093 2828 777 Open 6:00 pm, closed Sunday & Monday www.facebook.com/supattrathaidining Seatran Ferry

Big Buddha Market

Airport

2 www.siamwininganddining.com

Pizzas with Panache Ciccio Ristorante & Pizzeria at Royal Muang Samui Villas stands out from the crowd when it comes to great taste.

One of the first things you notice when you come to Samui is just how many Italian restaurants there are. OK, so they may be outnumbered by Thai places, but there's so much Italian food on offer that Samui might be a part of Italy itself, at least from a culinary point of view. If you're eating Italian, then you're definitely spoiled for choice. Ciccio, however, can offer two things that make it the first choice for many diners: it has both an Italian chef, who focuses on just pizzas, and a special brick-built pizza oven.

Ciccio Ristorante & Pizzeria, on the main road in Choeng Mon, provides a setting that’s casual but well-thought-out; you'll find a terrace where you can sit under the shade of trees overlooking a small pond. Your food is prepared just a few steps away in the kitchen, and from your table you'll be able to see Chef Lorenzo Belloni at work. A glance inside the fiery depths of the pizza oven reveals a traditional design that hasn’t changed in much in hundreds of years, except that this one is equipped with gas jets as well as the usual hearty stock of wood. The pizzas are placed on the floor of the oven, while the rounded ceiling focuses the heat evenly. It’s obviously the best way to make pizzas and Chef Lorenzo is an ideal choice for making them. He’s Italian himself, grew up around the same kind of food that he makes for his guests, and underwent rigorous training to become a chef, including doing a separate cookery course on – guess what? How to make the perfect pizza!

The dough he uses is naturally all-important, and is carefully prepared so its quality, texture and taste are all guaranteed to have the same perfect consistency. All the other ingredients – and there are many of them – are prime quality and come from top farms and suppliers in Thailand, or from Italy itself.

There's a full range of pizzas on offer, including calzone, of course, and even a half folded-pizza which has both a richly filled interior and a topping. Lorenzo’s also named some of his pizzas after Italian fashion designers. For an inventive combination, opt for the Gucci, which consists of fior di latte mozzarella, wild boar sausage, broccoli and gruyère. Lorenzo has also re-worked some very traditional pizzas. For example, try his Margharita di Bufala – here the centuries old popular recipe is enhanced by the use of top-quality buffalo mozzarella.

You can even design your own pizza. The menu contains a long list of extra toppings which you can order atop a Margharita pizza. With just this option alone, there would be enough variations possible for you to come back to the restaurant at least 20 times without ever eating the same pizza

twice. Lorenzo makes them all, and is happy to take your wishes into consideration. He’s an approachable figure, and along with his whole team will do his utmost to make your time at Ciccio a happily memorable one.

But what if pizza’s just not your thing? This is definitely no problem at all, as Ciccio directly adjoins another restaurant, Sailor Samui. Or more correctly, you could say that the two restaurants share the same terrace. Since there’s no real division between the restaurants, you can sit where you like and ask to see menus from both places.

You'll find an array of tempting dishes from starters all the way through to desserts. There’s a whole array of other dishes, mainly Italian and Mediterranean, allowing you to enjoy delicacies such as penne al brandy, an exquisite combination of bacon and tomatoes, or a risotto verde, featuring island seafood or a tender lamb cutlet with rosemary and thyme and flavoured with a red wine sauce. Round off an evening at Ciccio with extremely tasty desserts such as a traditional tiramisu, fondant chocolate lava cake or a chocolate mousse.

You'll also find a range of both old world and new world wines on the menu. There are prices to suit every pocket, and naturally you can also order wine by the glass. There are also plenty of soft drinks, cocktails, beers and so on.

Wednesday is a great day to come as the resort takes part in the town’s weekly night market, or ‘Walking Street’ as it’s called. With scores of vendors setting up stalls on the street right outside the restaurant, the atmosphere is wonderfully lively. It’s a delight to wander through the market and then take a seat at Ciccio, from where you can still see all the action.

If you're looking for Italian pizza that’s as near to perfection as you can get, then you'll know it’s only really possible if very traditional methods are used. Ciccio offers superb fare and a delightful place to spend a languid afternoon or evening (it’s open from 2:00 pm onwards). Last but not least, not only is the quality exceptionally high but the prices are very affordable. It’s hardly surprising that so many people make a beeline for this popular restaurant.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 8700. www.muangsamui.com

Romantic views, soothing sounds and classic Italian fare with a modern approach combine to please the most discerning diner.

Olivio - a must for visitors and locals alike.

Olivio ~ beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Villas Chaweng Beach.

Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500-8 www.siamwininganddining.com

3

Spicing Things Up Sidelined for centuries, mankind’s search for aphrodisiacs gets back on track.

When you start looking into aphrodisiacs, it feels like you are opening up old history books. It’s a natural reaction; a lot of early research was done on aphrodisiacs of every kind, and by early, I mean very early. As in some thousand or so years ago. And since then, relatively little has been done. It’s as if hard conclusions were reached many centuries ago and the topic has gone off the boil. The Ancients certainly had a passion for discovering what foods would stimulate the libido, and put together whole lists of plants, spices and foodstuffs that were guaranteed to promote desire. They had other lists for fertility, and even black lists for items that would diminish libido. Eat this they proclaimed, and your desire will be boosted; eat that and you'll feel drained of energy. Did people take heed? Some did and said they’d got the results they’d been promised.

If so, one wonders why this knowledge is barely known today, even though the problem of low libido still fills many a doctor’s surgery: 43% of women and 31% of men report having at least one symptom of sexual dysfunction. The Ancients, it seems, never found much that would conclusively and instantly stimulate sex drive.

The good news is that some serious research is still being done on aphrodisiacs, and it shows indications that some foodstuffs may indeed be

aphrodisiacs. In 2015, a study published in the journal of the International Society for Sexual Medicine detailed how research done on popular aphrodisiacs showed which items simply didn’t work and which ones showed promise. Alas, most so-called aphrodisiacs brought no benefits at all; no evidence had ever been found to support their claims. At best, it could be said that healthy foodstuffs aided the body generally, and thereby in turn the sex functions. The researchers did, however, come across some items that they said might well boost the human libido in one way or another.

Amongst these was maca, an obscure root vegetable that comes from the mountains in Peru. Locals there use it to help infertility and promote sexual arousal for both men and women. Studies show that it works and is able to help men suffering from impotence. The vegetable has few side effects when used as medication, but it’s not known how much has to be consumed for in optimal effect.

You’ve no doubt heard of ginseng, and this has now been proved to be an aphrodisiac, and also to help with erectile dysfunction. No less than seven studies indicate this. Red Korean ginseng has also been shown to improve sexual arousal in menopausal women. But it should not be

used by people with hormone-sensitive cancer.

The researchers were wary of promoting individual vitamins as aphrodisiacs, but they found that a particular combination of vitamins A, B-complex, C, E, zinc, Korean ginseng, Ginkgo, and Damiana were helpful and had an effect on female desire. The mix is sold under the name of ArginMax as a food supplement.

Much has been written over the centuries about the herb ginkgo biloba. It comes from a type of tree that was once widespread throughout the world, but which currently grows wild only in certain protected forest areas of East China. It’s cultivated in China and Japan – in major Japanese cities like Osaka, there are whole streets planted with such trees. Ginkgo biloba has long been considered one of the most powerful of all aphrodisiacs for men. It works by improving the circulation of the blood, which in turn means that more oxygen is delivered to all organs. The herb’s powers aren’t confined to boosting male libido; since it also provides more oxygen for the brain, it’s also used to combat forgetfulness in seniors. Ginkgo biloba extract has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to protect the human body from the effects of the aging process. The result is a more efficient immune system, improved energy and vitality, both in body and mind.

This brings us to the next point. The Ancients warned against substances that reduced desire and in the same way, today’s health experts similarly alert us to poor nutrition. A diet that’s rich in trans fats, sugar and salt, along with a generous consumption of alcohol and tobacco will certainly not boost an already flagging sex drive, and may well be the root cause of it.

Similarly, a sedentary lifestyle is anathema to lovers. Physical exercise promotes health throughout the body – and that includes the sex drive too.

You can of course always revert to drugs.

Alcohol and marijuana and are considered top of the list of some people’s favourite aphrodisiacs, simply because they take away inhibitions.

And then, of course, there's one natural function that’s frequently overlooked: the placebo effect.

If you believe a pill, product or herb is going to have a certain effect, it might well turn out to be so. A study was done where a simple sugar pill was presented to students who’d agreed to take part in an experiment. They were told that the pill was mind-altering and that they would be subject to shifts in consciousness and mental symptoms across the board – anything could happen, in short. Indeed, within minutes of swallowing the pills the students started to

REFINED DINING, COCKTAILS & MORE Are you ready for a brand new dining experience?

Join us at RockPool, Kanda Residences' spectacular beachfront restaurant and bar situated just 5 minutes from Chaweng.

Daily happy hour with buy one get one free on selected drinks from 2pm until 7pm.

For reservations or more information call +66 77 234 500 www.rockpoolsamui.com Facebook: rockpool.kohsamui 4 www.siamwininganddining.com

experience a variety of unusual mental states, and later described the ‘drug’ as extremely powerful. So if your belief is strong enough, it may well be the placebo effect that kicks in, guaranteeing you some amazing times. Richard Bandler, a prominent psychologist and one of the founders of Neuro-Linguistic Programming wrote that if people simply believe that a placebo ‘somehow triggers a natural healing response’ they’ll respond to it, even if they're told it’s a placebo. Perhaps, then, it’s the same for so-called aphrodisiacs – they're effective for some people, because of their faith in them.

Many people hope for a quick fix, just as they always have. It’s human nature, and relatively few of us put in the hard work that’ll result in an above-average body. But who knows? Maybe the millennial search for the easy, perfect aphrodisiac will soon be over. Perhaps even now, as you read this, some botanist has just spied a never-before classified plant deep in the Amazon jungle, wonders what benefits it might have, and collects a sample. Today’s curiosity might be tomorrow’s instant solution.

Dimitri Waring

Weekend Treat Saturday Brunch reaches new culinary heights at Vana Belle, a Luxury Collection Resort, Koh Samui.

What’s the best way to spend a luxurious Saturday on the island? With so much choice available, it’s an on-going debate. However, whether you're recovering from an exciting Friday night spent in the hot-spots of Chaweng, have just arrived at the airport, or are simply in a languid mood, then you might want to reward yourself with Saturday Brunch at Vana Belle.

And it definitely is a reward, if you're thinking of a reward as being something that’s unusually good. It all starts long before you even come within touching distance of any food or drink. It all starts with the setting.

At Vana Belle, located right on the serene coast of Chaweng Noi there stands an exquisite restaurant, Kiree, set on a verdant hillside overlooking the ocean down below. It’s quiet here, a place filled with a sense of tranquillity, just the kind of hideaway spot that, even if you've only been here once, you will always fondly remember.

If you can, you should approach via the beach, but plenty of people will tell you that it’s just as good if you arrive via the main entrance. Pass through the main gate and you'll already be surprised: you're probably expecting buildings, but they're hard to see because you find yourself in forested surroundings. Keep on going and you'll come to the lobby area. And it’s from here that you'll experience the incomparable sea view: wide-open ocean, a fringe of trees on a headland – a totally remote feel. You'll quickly feel relaxed. This is the kind of place where you can finally ease back and just let go, even if you're really frazzled. It has that kind of unique charm to it, this place.

It’s also to do with the planning and the layout; everything here has been done to create a serene, happy experience. Everything was designed along strict Feng Shui lines, and a master of this most traditional art gave the final say-so on every part of the project. Whether you believe in the efficacy of the ancient Chinese arts or not, there's something very soothing just being at Vana Belle. The name incidentally, comes from the Sanskrit word for ‘forest’ and the French word for ‘beautiful’. Both words are apt.

You'll be led down to Kiree, which is imbued with an understated chic. Comfy seating is arranged around tables giving a sitting room ambience. There’s space too, plenty of it, so you'll never feel disturbed by fellow diners.

Everything’s discreet. Then there’s the daylight itself. It fills the air-con dining room but in the most subtle of ways. You won’t have to shield your eyes, no matter where you sit. The light, all natural, is soft even on a very sunny day, as delicate as in a Vermeer painting. You can, incidentally, also sit out on the terrace, pleasantly cooled by sea breezes. And nobody will mind if you oscillate between the two settings.

The Saturday Brunch itself is beautifully displayed in the main dining area – but this is only the buffet part – and you might well want to take a look at the extensive selection before deciding where to begin. Amazing dishes from around the world have been seamlessly ‘curated’ to form this unique brunch experience. It’s a connoisseur’s concept of luxury food. Just a few examples; you'll find French oysters, Phuket lobster, Serrano ham and Australian Wagyu rib-eye along with various cheeses, salads and, sure enough, breakfast treats, too.

The numerous items in the buffet alone guarantee scores of different possibilities. There’s simply too much to experience everything.

No-one would complain if the brunch consisted only of this. But there's more – an entire à la carte section. When you're first seated, you'll be brought a menu allowing you to order dishes that will then be cooked to perfection by the chef, and brought to your table. You might enjoy, for example, a selection of sashimi, or pulled, braised lamb shank on English muffin, or a salmon steak, seared to perfection.

Desserts are decadent in the extreme. There’s also an entire mini-buffet of Valhrona chocolate delicacies and, if that's not enough, a chocolate fountain with a medley of fruit and biscuits to dip. The wide range of cuisine is reflected in a similar number of drinks; you'll find there's just about everything from tea and coffee (if you're leaning more towards breakfast), through to smoothies and shakes, and then cocktails, Prosecco and even Bollinger Special Cuvee Champagne.

The brunch is available on Saturdays from midday until 4:00 pm. It’s recommended that you reserve in order to avoid disappointment (either phone directly or book via the website).

Afterwards, you may wish to step out onto the sands and walk along Chaweng Noi beach or, if you're staying at Vana Belle, retire to one of the 80 suites and relax there – each has its own private pool.

The world of Vana Belle is a remarkable one, and it’s worth spending time here. Brunch is a good example of how the resort breaks new grounds to reward its diners with a lavish selection of unexpected treats. Vana Belle – and its restaurant, Kiree – will always offer you experiences that you're unlikely to have come across before. You’ll be surprised and pleased that you came.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 5555. www.vanabellekohsamui.com

Located in the beautiful Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach.

Our experienced chefs proudly present authentic Thai cuisine and Southern Thai dishes. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the tranquility of the beach, the twinkling stars and the whispering waves along with the beautiful music. A superb dining experience and great memories.

Fisherman’s Village

Tel: 077 430 030, 077 245 035 www.kruabophut.com

Free Parking available at The

Wharf!!

www.siamwininganddining.com 5

Much at Stake When comparing Thai Beef with other beef, don’t forget the cultural element.

Meat, especially steak, may not be the loveliest foodstuff to look at, and it can be a difficult job to make it look aesthetically pleasing when it’s on the plate. But when it comes to ordering it and then eating it, most diners definitely have opinions on how it should taste. And, as we all know, it’s one of the few dishes where diners get to have a say in how it’s prepared. ‘How would you like your steak?’ is definitely not a question that any waitperson wants to forget to ask. Meat, especially steak, is a primeval commodity, and it’s something that’s hard-wired into the brain; our ancestors may not have cared whether it was rare, medium or even burned to a frazzled crisp - it was simply life and death to them to haul enough of it into camp so that nobody went hungry. Today, it’s still important, but the question is now not so much if there’s any on the table, but rather its quality and where it has come from.

Some meats are clearly better than others. And some purport to be amongst the very best.

Kobe and Wagyu beef, for example. For some, those names are a magic incantation; they know that what they're getting will be prime grade beef. Spend any time at international restaurants in Thailand, and you'll notice just how ubiquitous Wagyu is. Then of course, there’s

New Zealand lamb, Australian beef and so on.

One reason that you'll find so much foreign beef in restaurants was the signing of a free trade agreement between Thailand, Australia and New Zealand in 2005, allowing for easier imports. The other reason is that Thailand’s demand for beef isn’t met by its own production; imports are needed, and a lot of them, day in and day out. This explains why Thai beef seems to be so secondary when it comes to feeding both Thais and holidaymakers.

Thai beef, like meat from any country, comes in different qualities, with prices to match. Here, three classes have been recognized. Firstly there’s high quality beef sold in supermarkets and restaurants. It comes from crossbred cattle that are fed for between eight and ten months on high grain and low fibre rations. The beef is tender and has a quite a lot of marbling. The market share for this high quality beef is only a few percent.

Secondly, you'll find medium quality beef from the Brahman crossbred bulls of different ages, which have been fattened for a few months in order to increase muscle and fat. The market share is almost 50% with carcasses sold in local

fresh markets, supermarkets, as well as in restaurants. Thirdly, there’s generic beef that’s sold in local markets for home consumption.

The meat comes from lowlier Brahman crossbred bulls, culled animals and elderly cattle that tend to graze wherever there's spare land. This accounts too for almost half of all consumption.

Beef is set to gain further in popularity and demand is ever rising, but for the moment, there's not enough of it. The cattle industry has its roots way to the north of Samui, since the southern region, of which Samui is a part, is mainly given over to agriculture including rubber, oil palm, fruit trees and coconuts. If you're looking for a big concentration of cattle on Samui and its surrounding provinces, you won’t find it here – at least, not yet. The beef you eat in Chaweng, Maenam or Lamai is almost certainly not from down the road.

But in all of this there’s a cultural element that shouldn’t be forgotten. Some people maintain that Thai beef is no good at all: too tough, too chewy. These critics are thinking about steak, big dollops of meat. Steak connoisseurs will probably opt for beef that comes from elsewhere. But the point is that the critics are

only thinking about steak. Thai food isn’t about having one enormous homogenous slab of meat on one’s plate surrounded by lesser culinary minions. In the Thai way of thinking, this would be gross oversimplification. It would be almost coarse. Australian chef David Thompson, a well-known chef and expert on Thai food, observed that unlike many other cuisines, Thai food is all to do with juggling of disparate elements to create a harmonious finish. He says, “Simplicity isn't the dictum here, at all. Some westerners think it's a jumble of flavours, but to a Thai that's important, it's the complexity they delight in."

It’s not just a culinary consideration, either; with their Buddhist background, Thais tend to avoid the use of large animals in big chunks. Meat is often shredded and prepared with spices and stir-frying is a favourite way of cooking. Steak houses are a relatively new addition to the urban restaurant scene in Thailand, and are definitely more international in their menus than traditional Thai.

Harmony has always been the main principle behind each recipe. Characteristics of Thai food depend on who cooks it, for whom it is cooked, for what occasion, and where it is

cooked. A proper Thai meal ideally comprises a soup, either a spicy salad or a curry dish and a fish dish along with a dip. There must be harmony of tastes and textures within individual dishes and the entire meal. As you can see it’s a very different affair from the western idea of ‘meat and two veg’, where the meat is always the star, and a big one at that.

In the list of the "World's 50 most delicious foods", compiled by CNN in 2011, massaman curry stands proudly at first place as the most delicious food in the world. The dish is centuries old, and traditionally uses beef – of course, produced locally in Thailand – although these days many other ways of making it are acknowledged. The point is that for the dish to become so famous, its main ingredient, Thai beef has always been, and remains great-tasting.

Thai beef may not be able to compete with other types of beef when it comes to steak, but then again, it was never intended to!

Dimitri Waring

Sabeinglae Restaurant

Traditional fresh seafood and cuisine in an authentic southern Thai style.

An experience to truly complete your holiday.

Hin Ta Hin Yai, Samui Ring Road Tel. 077 233 082-3 The Wharf Samui, Fishermans’s Village Tel. 077 430 094-5 Wimaan Buri Resort, Chaweng Ring Road Tel. 077 962 333 6 www.siamwininganddining.com

Fine Beachside Dining with Spectacular Sunsets

THE SIAM RESIDENCE B o u t i q u e

R e s o r t

Thai & International cuisine in Lipa Noi / Koh Samui Phone: +66 (0) 77 420 008 | samui@siamresidence.com | www.siamresidence.com

All Aboard Moving forward into 2017 at The Barge.

The Barge is one of the two main restaurants at Nora Buri Resort & Spa, and can be found on dry land, albeit beside the ocean with gorgeous views of the Gulf of Siam. It is a beautiful building crafted from dark wood and designed to look, well… like a barge! There are four floors of dining. The Barge is on the ground floor with wooden decking, situated alongside the beach and recently refurbished pool.

Freshly sanded and newly polished natural wood furniture with comfy cushions and smart tableware completes the scene. The second floor provides extra seating for The Barge and is covered, great in case of bad weather. On the third floor is Rice Barge and Terrace. This is a separate restaurant which serves authentic Thai cuisine. Traditional Thai seating, food and music provide a truly genuine local dining experience. The outside terrace affords spectacular views of the ocean and has a perfect ocean breeze keeping you cool and refreshed. Right at the top is the Sky Lounge, which is a secluded area and used for exclusive and private dining.

vegetarian dish is the Homemade Gnocchi. It is served with pea puree, cashew nuts, feta cheese and dried tomatoes. Don’t worry if you have particular dietary requirements, the chef will be more than happy to customize something for you, and gluten free bread (which is made on-site in the bakery) is always available on request.

Desserts and the possibility of afternoon tea have made a new leap forward into 2017 with the arrival of an extremely talented pastry chef. Khun Phawat Theinchio, who was previously at Six Senses Resort and Spa, is making a name for himself with a range of amazing and extraordinarily tasty sweet and savoury creations. His Mango Cheesecake with almond praline, fresh mango and mint is refreshingly heavenly, and the Peanut Butter Parfait with Oreo, served with strawberry and chocolate sauces is a gloriously divine mix of subtle yet bold flavours.

a perfect preview to the ‘Hawaiian Seafood Buffet’ which also occurs every Wednesday. Local fresh seafood is cooked on the barbeque, accompanied by live entertainment from Polynesian dancers. For either themed evening, if you reserve a table in advance, you get a generous 15% discount, and children 6-12 years old are half price. The buffets are very reasonably priced and extremely good value for money, especially for a 5-star resort. No wonder they are so popular.

Another change for 2017 is the introduction of a new craft artisan beer called Chalawan, which is brewed in Phuket by Full Moon Brewworks using only local ingredients. Inspired by a Thai folk tale, Chalawan, the King of Alligators has the ability to shapeshift into a charming man who lures young women to be his lovers. He can be strong and aggressive just like his wild nature, but also smooth and charming, especially around women. Just like Chalawan, this pale ale balances bitterness versus sweetness. It’s a good thirst quencher, a flavourful beer and provides a good story to take home.

The Barge caters for lunch and evening dining, specialising in high-quality western and seafood cuisine. During the day, the atmosphere is casual as it caters primarily for the beach and poolside guests.

At night, the area is transformed with dimmed lighting and provides a fine dining experience, catering for the varied tastes of resort guests and visitors. There are set menus for those who like to sample a well-balanced variety of seafood and meat, or the à la carte menu. Along with the ever-popular Lamb Rack and Seafood Bisque, new additions for 2017 include; Australian Beef Tenderloin with onion rings and garlic vegetables served with a delicious peppercorn sauce, Grilled Salmon with tomato and basil risotto, and Crispy Chicken Thigh with pumpkin puree, mushroom ragout and red wine sauce.

Themed evenings are ever-popular at The Barge.

Every Monday night is ‘Cowboy Steak Buffet’, a fantastic array of meats, salads and accompaniments complete with a Wild West theme. Bunting is strung amongst the trees and hay bales are scattered to create a fun, party atmosphere. Staff get dressed up in cowboy and cowgirl outfits. If you can create and wear a themed outfit, you’ll be rewarded with a free drink! The frivolity is accompanied with live entertainment from The Barge’s own band and cooking demonstrations. These special evenings include four options for ‘all you can drink promotions’. You can pay per hour for as long as you want, well until closing time. The options are; beer only; beer, spirits and soft drinks; cocktails, beers, spirits and soft drinks or house wine. Don’t worry; buggies are available to get you back to the hotel lobby or your room if required!

Karan Ladd

If you want something a bit lighter, there are lots of interesting salads on the menu, including a delicious Fennel and Smoked Salmon Salad. An amazing

Every Wednesday evening there is a Management Cocktail Evening from 6:00 pm until 7:00 pm. Relax and enjoy a complimentary cocktail and snacks. It’s

For reservations or further information, telephone 077 913 555. www.noraburiresort.com

Nora Buri Resort & Spa is located at the very north end of Chaweng Beach, as the road begins to go downhill towards Choeng Mon. It is a quiet hillside area, leading down to a secluded beach and surrounded by lush tropical vegetation and mature trees, offering guests all the advantages of a calm and tranquil island dining experience by the sea.

Conveniently, it is just a few minutes’ drive from the bustling nightlife and busy shopping area of central Chaweng. The Barge is open from 11:00 am until 11.30 pm, so jump aboard and help ring in the new changes for 2017.

www.siamwininganddining.com 7

Thailand s Greatest Recipes Make it yourself: Pad Thai or kway teow pad Thai.

Like many of the nation’s favourite dishes, Pad Thai is so ubiquitous that it must have been around for hundreds of years. But with pad Thai, things aren’t at all what they seem, and even the word ‘Thai’ is a bit of a misnomer. The dish's full name, kway teow pad Thai, or stir-fried rice noodles, Thai-style, seems to connect it, however vaguely, with southern China, since kway teow is a Hokkien-Chinese dialect word for rice noodles.

But whatever, the dish is old, right?

It turns out that that pad Thai was unknown before the 1940s, and its rise to fame started off with the dreams of just one individual. And he wasn’t a chef. It was Prime Minister Plaek Phibunsongkhram who was behind the roaring success. (He was also responsible for changing the name of the country from Siam to Thailand, by the way.) But why, you might ask, was the government so keen on fostering a noodle dish?

There were two reasons. Firstly, it was part of their drive to give people a sense of national identity. Even if it had some roots in China, the dish was a Thai invention, and was proclaimed to be Thai. Some people claim that the prime minister himself more or less invented it, though this seems unlikely. The other motive for the introduction of the dish was that Thailand was

experiencing widespread poverty, and pad Thai was highly affordable. And just as good, it was relatively healthy. For a small outlay, you could have a filling and nutritious meal.

Pad Thai comes in many variations, typically with chicken, shrimp, pork, beef, seafood or shrimp.

It’s not spicy and diners usually add their own chilli to the dish.

For years, pad Thai was typical street vendor food (it still is) and it was only slowly adopted by restaurants. If you wanted to eat it, you had to go to the local market, sit at a table and place your order. Alternatively, you could order takeaway pad Thai, and the vendor would simply empty the wok onto newspaper lined with banana leaves and wrap up for you. But then restaurants began to offer pad Thai and later on gentrified it; some 20 years ago, fresh prawns began to appear on menus, and this definitely marked a new phase for the dish. Nowadays, you can still enjoy it in the old-style, sitting on a plastic chair at a vendor’s stall or in a posh restaurant. The choice is yours, but the dish is dependably good.

If you're patient, you can make pad Thai yourself, just as many Thais do, though most cooks will admit it takes time to get the dish right. For today’s purposes we’ve chosen a basic pad Thai simply using tofu.

The techniques for preparing the dish haven’t changed over the years. Chefs prepare no more than two portions together, so as to prevent the noodles clumping. Street food it may be, but not for coach parties. Ingredients are fresh and in the hands of an expert, the result is always a delight.

Ingredients (serves 2) • 120g flat rice noodles • 60ml fish sauce • 60ml tamarind concentrate, mixed with a little water • 60g palm sugar • ¼ tsp chilli powder • 80ml vegetable oil • 3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped • 100g extra-firm tofu, chopped into small cubes • 8 large prawns • 2 eggs, • 25g preserved salted radish, chopped • 1 tbsp small dried shrimp • ½ cup of bean sprouts • 3 stalks Chinese chives

• chopped roasted peanuts to taste • ½ lime wedge, chilli flakes (not powder), fish sauce and sugar, as garnish

bean sprouts, chives and peanuts. Stir fry until the ingredients are all combined then serve immediately.

Preparation

If all this strikes you as a bit too tricky, then just nip into your local supermarket if on Samui or Asian supermarket if elsewhere and arm yourself with a sachet of pad Thai sauce. It’s a ready-made brown goo which you simply add, and the results are usually good. Depending on which sachet you use and with some practice they might even be approaching professional level. After all, many street vendors make no secret of the fact that they're using the special sauce. Cheating? Or just making life a bit easier?

Soak the rice noodles in cold water for at least 30 minutes until they're pliable and then drain.

While the noodles are soaking, prepare the pad Thai sauce: mix together the fish sauce, tamarind and palm sugar in a small pan. Heat very gently until the sugar has dissolved. Adjust the ingredients to suit your taste. Add in the chilli to taste. Place to one side.

Heat up a wok and add half the oil, then in quick succession, add the garlic, then the noodles and a splash of water – stand back as you add the water. Continue stir-frying until the ingredients are beginning to dry out, and then add the sauce. Fry until the noodles until they're slightly chewy.

Alternatively, simply go to a restaurant and let an expert throw together the ingredients for you. It’ll definitely be worth it; pad Thai charms the entire nation and helps power millions of people through their day.

Place the noodles at the side of the wok and add in the rest of the oil. Fry the tofu and prawns until the tofu is starting to brown, then add the eggs, piercing the yolk and scramble. Mix in with the noodles, and add the radish, dried shrimp,

Dimitri Waring

Daily Theme Nights From 7pm.

Monday Classical Thai Night Buffet - THB 590 Tuesday Catch of the Day - from THB 250 Wednesday Italian Night Buffet - THB 490 Thursday Steak Supreme - from THB 300 Friday Beach BBQ Buffet featuring live music and a fire juggling show - THB 690 Saturday Surf & Turf - THB 790 Sunday Roast Chicken Sunday - THB 390 Daily Happy Hours at Beach Bar Buy 1 get 1 free beers and cocktails from 12pm - 2pm l 5pm - 7pm l 9pm - Midnight Sentinel Band Enjoy music from the Sentinel Band - Monday to Saturday from 7pm – 10pm Dining on the Beach Moonlight beach dining with your own private chef, from THB 1,500 per person

Chaweng Noi Beach For reservations please call: +66 77 448 994 www.impiana.com.my/hotel/impiana-resort-chaweng-noi-koh-samui/

8 www.siamwininganddining.com

Under the Surface

We look at why Poppies Resort has become a Samui legend, and dig down into its history – in more ways than one!

You’d never believe the way it was. Koh Samui, I mean. Yes, sure, there are lots of old pics but they don’t mean much. Fuzzy photos of empty beaches, or of some huts and palms; they could be anywhere. If I say that Chaweng once had one big muddy puddle right along the beach, that’s still not enough – even if it later became ‘Chaweng Beach Road’. If I told you that, 20 years ago, you could see the sea from almost all of this muddy lane, it’s not easy to grasp. What you need is something that’s side-by-side.

Pictures before and after. And that’s where Poppies pops up.

Poppies Samui is unique, and in several different ways. To begin with it was the first privately-owned luxury bungalow resort on the island. It was also the first foreign-owned resort of this kind. And, accidentally, it also introduced a new term into the local hospitality jargon; boutique – although this was something that the owners didn’t conjure up or lay claim to. No, this was coined much later by the many admirers who needed something snappy-sounding to make their own little place stand out from the crowd.

Poppies took the idea of the beach hut and turned it into a brick-built cottage. These were

expanded, styled and fitted to the highest European standards, yet still retained a charming flavour of Thai décor. A Balinese-style luxury open bathroom. European furniture and fittings.

And all of them set in a luxuriant yet controlled riot of tropical bushes and blooms, with delightful water features and a very special site-design. This was achieved by something previously unknown in these parts; by constructing a mighty concrete shell that raised the slope of the whole plot up and on top of the street-fronting reception area – there are lush gardens and 10 full-size cottages up on top! But they’re hidden by the roofline at the front. It’s hardly surprising that just the layout alone took four years to perfect.

The story of how all of this came about is a sub-legend all of its own, because Poppies didn’t originate here. It emerged in the early 1970s, initially as a small and pleasant restaurant, set in a garden, close to the beach in Bali. The female owner, Zenik, had teamed up with the Englishman, John Taylor. Soon it became known as ‘Poppies Restaurant and Cottages’ as, in 1973, John and Zenik began to expand. In the early 1980s, John came to visit Samui, becoming a regular visitor over the next few years. On one of these trips he met an Irishman, David Hill and

his Thai wife, who just happened to own a small but prime piece of beachfront land in Chaweng.

John began to make plans for this rather unremarkable plot which had nothing on either side, and sloped down across untouched scrubland and sand towards the sea.

His aims were, firstly, to maximise the accommodation and yet still retain a sense of individual privacy within a rich garden ambiance. This was achieved not only by the ingenious creation of that extra ‘land’ above the frontage, but also by some very exhaustive design-work in the positioning of the cottages – the paths twist and turn back on themselves so that rarely is it possible to see either the boundary walls of the resort, or more than a few cottages at a time. One problem was the movement of the domestic staff as they serviced the accommodation during the day. With 24 precisely-placed bungalows, a sudden blitz of maids and trolleys would have been disruptive.

The solution? An underground tunnel running alongside the restaurant and emerging into the car park at the front.

Planning began in 1989, but it wasn’t until 1994 that all the seeds had rooted, grown, finally blossomed, and Poppies Samui opened its doors.

To correspond with this, the second and completely new idea that Poppies introduced to Samui was an on-site restaurant that didn’t merely exist to feed its guests. Right from the start the concept was that of a top-quality international-standard restaurant with a world-class chef to design the cuisine. The restaurant was open to the public, and outside diners were encouraged to venture in and experience their cuisine. Back then, this was unheard of.

Yes, certainly, it was accepted that the big city hotels did this. But a small island-bungalow resort? It was outrageous! And it was outrageously successful, too. Over the first dozen years there was a succession of renowned chefs who were teased away from their 5-star kitchens by the temptation of a ground-breaking concept, not to mention the lure of an idyllic island lifestyle. With them in the kitchen was a carefully selected handful of helpers and assistants, all of them Thai, and each of them keen to learn and master a new cuisine and the techniques that went with it. But that was then . . .

Today Poppies has changed – it’s become even better! It was a success right from the start. But as time has passed it’s continued to uphold its

reputation as one of the nicest places to stay on the island, together with some of the best eating anywhere. One true measure of the integrity of a resort is the way it keeps its staff – in most places they move on after a year or so. Yet Khun Wan is in charge of the Thai kitchen, and she‘s been here right from the start - 22 years. Khun Noi handles the Western cuisine, and he’s benefitted from 18 years of study with all those international chefs. Altogether there are no fewer than 31 employees who have now been here for 10 years or more – that’s how loyal they all are.

Interestingly, the recently-appointed General Manager, James F. McManaman, has almost been here for 19 years – he was the third GM at Poppies back in 1997, and now he’s delighted to have been invited back again. He’s so pleased, in fact, that he’s got some really special plans for the next few months. I can’t tell you exactly what yet, but I can reveal that dining at Poppies in 2017 will be more distinctive and ‘memorable’ than ever – to give you a hint!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 2419. www.poppiessamui.com

www.siamwininganddining.com

9

Twin Peaks The Bistro & The Dining Room at Rocky’s Boutique Resort Koh Samui both reach pinnacles of perfection when it comes to both casual and fine dining.

10 www.siamwininganddining.com

A beautiful backdrop of jungly green trees, a gorgeous bay and a resort that’s elegant down to the tiniest details – Rocky’s, situated just south of Lamai, is the perfect combination not only for a getaway stay, but also for a memorably good lunch or dinner.

If there can be said to be a drawback to eating here, it’s just that you'll need to choose which of the two restaurants you'd like to dine in, as both have a serious cachet for excellence. Maybe just start off at the beautiful little beach bar, and treat yourself to a cooling drink as you look out over the ocean while you decide. You can also order pre-dinner cocktails and canapés here.

Immediately adjacent to the bar is The Dining Room, an opulent yet laid-back restaurant that hints at northern-style Thai architecture. With its tasteful teak furniture and a generous accent on floral decoration, it’s an uplifting experience just to take a seat here. And when evening comes, candles are lit at every table, giving the entire setting an especially warm glow. It’s open-sided, by the way, so guests can look out over the sea from where they're sitting. In addition, there’s seating right outside, looking out over the delightfully secluded beach that fronts Rocky’s.

You'll definitely need to reserve the outdoor tables in advance as they're so popular.

Open daily till 11:00 pm, The Dining Room offers classical French cuisine with some contemporary twists. For example you can enjoy Hokkaido Scallops, with topinambour purée, sauce almandine, wilted baby spinach, Parma ham and white truffle oil. Fish lovers will love the Dorade Royale, a beautifully crispy fillet of sea bream, accompanied by violet artichoke en barigoule, wilted leeks, tomato confit and fava beans. Meanwhile, a truly French treat awaits, roasted breast of quail stuffed with foie gras, crispy quail legs, potato purée, artichoke, shoyu and quail jus. It may be far from its native shores, but it’s perfectly cooked here at Rocky’s.

Many guests opt for The Dining Room’s signature dish, Beef Rossini, where fillet mignon is accompanied by seared foie gras, wilted baby spinach, tarragon glazed carrots and completed with an exquisite Madeira sauce. It’s all excellently presented too, as well as being delicious. Something quite unusual has also been added to the fare here; you'll find a special grill menu featuring meats that are cooked on lava rocks, guaranteeing that all the flavours are kept.

If The Dining Room represents a pinnacle of fine dining, then The Bistro reaches the same heights when it comes to more casual eating. It has a relaxed garden setting, and the open-air dining room allows in cooling breezes, while the

terrace provides plenty of shade under giant parasols. The Bistro offers lunch, dinner and light meals at any time of the day, until 11:00 pm. You'll also find a state-of-the-art Italian oven, ideal for pizzas. The menu features a plethora of Italian and Provencal-influenced cuisine along with Thai treats. You can enjoy wonderful dishes such as char-grilled salmon, Cajun tiger prawns, Australian lamb cutlets and steak au poivre. Or how about seafood pasta with fish fresh from Samui’s waters, cooked Italian-style with garlic and red chilli?

Executive Chef Pramon Phengnoo runs both restaurants. He uses traditional French cooking methods, but also the most modern of techniques such as sous-vide and thermo mix in order to get the best possible tastes for his diners. And ingredients are the freshest possible from the best suppliers.

As we all know, sometimes it’s tempting to cut corners. But at Rocky’s none of this happens.

Everything possible is made from scratch; some of it takes an astonishingly long time (ever made gravy over three days, as they do here?) but the results are worth it. Cooking is taken seriously at Rocky’s, a passion that’s shared by the General Manager, Martin Fells, who turns out to be a former professional chef himself. He’s been in charge at Rocky’s for five years now, and intends

to stay, because, as he says, he enjoys life in the resort; its friendly and welcoming staff give it a family atmosphere.

Rocky’s has one of the largest collections of wines on the island; there are over 160 of them, taking in both Old and New World wines. You can naturally also drink wine by the glass, and in addition there are small bottles of Moët & Chandon, ideal for a special moment with a loved one.

They are able to cater to any kind of food allergy, and have recently developed some gluten-free dishes, and since everything’s produced from scratch, the team knows exactly what’s in the dishes. As you can imagine, Rocky’s is one of those few places that is extremely thoughtful about preparing the food.

They'll also go the extra mile to please their guests, so if you have any special requests, they'll do their utmost to satisfy you. No doubt because of this helpful attitude and due to the picturesque setting, Rocky’s has become a highly successful venue for weddings and vow renewal, as well as private romantic dinners hosted in a gazebo on the sands.

However, you don’t have to be getting married or in the mood for romance to have a special

time; Rocky’s holds plenty of theme nights at The Dining Room, and these events are always well-attended. On Mondays, there's surf ‘n’ turf featuring live jazz, then on Tuesdays, a Thai night, where the focus is on the country’s favourite foods. While you're eating you can watch traditional dancing with musicians playing Thai instruments. On Wednesdays a romantic candlelit dinner is held, and then on Thursdays there’s a barbecue beach party complete with fire-dancing. On Saturdays you can listen to live jazz while enjoying the à la carte menu.

Rocky’s iconic location with its beautiful backdrop of sea and jungle is reason enough to head here for lunch or dinner. On top of all that, there’s the outstanding quality of the food, with dishes that are brimming with taste and top-notch ingredients. Both restaurants are highly recommended, and with prices to suit all pockets and tastes, you're sure to have a great time at this laid-back resort.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7723 3020. www.rockyresort.com

www.siamwininganddining.com 11

Lions and Tigers and Snakebite Plus a few other strange beasts, too – we look at Thai beer.

Once upon a time I used to be clear about things. I’d spent a lot of my life forming opinions. I looked around and saw what I liked and what I didn’t. And I knew why, and why not. But now I’m old and wise and I just don’t know anymore. Every single thing seems to have grown new facets. It’s all much more complex than it used to be. Take the simple subject of beer, for instance.

To an older person from England, dark beer is the best and the blonde lagers are for kids who can’t handle the real thing. A young American, on the other hand will judge everything against the iconic ‘American Style Gold Lager’. But most of Middle America still thinks Budweiser in a can is real beer. And Germans old and young will crave their pilsner. Yes, I know, this is about Thai beer. But there’s two ways I can write this: the easy way is to just make a list of them and copy some historical dates and notes from the internet. The other way is what I’m doing now.

And the aspect of culture and tradition weaves its way through the whole subject of beer, tugging opinions this way and that, depending on who you are and where you come from.

There are some European breweries that have been running since the dawn of time: Weihanstephan Abbey in Bavaria has been

12 www.siamwininganddining.com

brewing since 1040 AD, for example. Whereas America’s Yeungling Brewery has only been at it since 1829. This is important, as it shapes a nation’s thinking. Thailand, for instance has been making beer since 1933.

You just can’t escape it - culture and tradition.

You need hops and malt to make beer, neither of which ever used to be grown in Thailand.

The nation’s staple diet is rice. Therefore it’s hardly surprising that all the traditional Thai tipples have evolved from rice, fermented fruits, or a blend of both together. Beer was a foreign thing. Rice wine – and it is absolutely not ‘wine’ at 40% alcohol! – was a rural favourite, as was the dangerous ‘ya dong’, home-made and usually from ethyl alcohol. But the imported ‘bia’ was highly suspicious and very expensive.

Interestingly it was the Thais’ love of everything American that got them started, leading to the formation of the nation’s first brewery, the Boon Rawd Brewery, in 1933. To be fair, the company’s founder, Phraya Bhirom Bhakdi, spent several years living in Germany and Denmark studying their methods and techniques. And the result was the appearance of Singha Beer, which has since become something of an international symbol for Thailand.

And all went along as smooth as Thai silk until 1995. This was when the company which had previously held the government monopoly on the spirits sector, the ThaiBev Group, brought out a rival with their Chang (elephant) beer. And then, just to make things even more fun, both Carlsberg and Heineken opened their own breweries in Thailand in the same year. Not only that, but Boon Rawd also bought the two German breweries which produced Singha Gold for the European market!

And to come back to the place where I began; what’s beer all about? Here’s a little challenge on this point. Which beer has been reviewed by international experts and described as “… honeyed raisin-toast aromas with a hint of lychee follow-through on a crisp, smooth entry to a dryish medium body, with a hint of apple, nut, and a solid roasted grain character. Finishes with a crisp, balanced earthy hop and pizza dough fade.” Forgive me for being bemused – a pizza dough fade? Wouldn’t that be something to run away from as fast as you can? If you’re still puzzled – it was the critique of Chang at World Beer Championships in 2008. Drink some and see for yourself.

Getting back to history, in 2010, Boon Rawd embarked on a serious marketing campaign, not

only introducing the cheaper Leo beer (pitched firmly at the working classes), but also getting stuck into some serious international marketing with its flagship Singha beer. This is the brand that’s stood the test of time, and with an estimated 78% of all Thai restaurants in Europe and America carrying it.

But today, things have changed a lot, and on three distinctive fronts. Firstly there are the Asian beers, which now include Singapore’s famous Tiger brand, and Chang has even sprouted a baby brother as a sort of ‘budget’ alternative tipple, the little-known Archa beer. The second is that there’s a new wave of beer importers, making brews available from not only many of the Asian countries but also from all over the world. Some of these are the traditional stalwarts such as Erdinger or Fuller’s London Pride, but there’s also a wild frontier of craft beers, too.

And that’s category three – craft beers. While it’s tempting to assume that these are all brought-in from micro-breweries in Europe or America, not so! Thailand’s laws are changing. In theory it’s still illegal to brew beer – there’s a curious 200 baht fine for doing this! And although it’s still not generally permitted for a micro-brewery to actually bottle their wares for distribution, craft-brew pubs are spreading. There are dozens

in Bangkok and, notably, the first one in our part of the world, in Phuket, the Full Moon Brewwork. They’re putting together a variety of brews, such as the crisply floral Cha La Wan pale ale and even the English-inspired Andaman Dark Ale. Things are looking up.

The good news is that I know of several hotels on Samui who are now stocking these beers.

And the better news is that Samui even has its own micro-brewery – the Bees Knees Brew Pub, on the long stretch of Chaweng’s Lake Road.

So do yourself a favour, and all of us, too. Ask for some Wychwood: ‘Snakes Bite’ or Summer Wine: ‘The Kiwi’ or even Amager: ‘Bryghus Sloth’ at your resort. Mutter about craft beer in the restaurants. Raise awareness. Because the more strange beer-beasts there are, the happier we all will be!

Rob De Wet

Rise and Shine Break your fast with the sunrise, at Santiburi Samui Country Club.

High up in the hills and coconut groves, above the ring-road between Maenam and Ban Tai, you can find undulating and beautifully landscaped manicured lawns, dotted idyllically with indigenous tropical trees and plants, lakes, waterfalls, streams and even a bit of rough. You have either found by design, or stumbled upon, Santiburi Golf Course. Way up here, almost 180 metres above sea level, where the air is cooler and fresher, you'll be rewarded by some of the best views on Samui's north coast. On a clear day, you’ll see a coastal panoramic view stretching from all the way from Bang Por in the north-west, to Choeng Mon at the most north-eastern point of the island.

The 5-star, 18-hole international standard championship golf course (par 72 and 6,930 yards), is known as one of the most beautiful courses in Asia, and ranks as one of the top five courses in Thailand, so it’s well worth a visit whether you play golf or not. The golf course and clubhouse fit effortlessly within the rolling contours of hills and valleys, blending in perfectly with the natural beauty of coconut plantations and the surrounding nature.

The clubhouse is built in a discreetly modern, Thai architectural style, with a superb feeling of light and space as it rises high above the landscaped greens, trees, lakes and bunkers. It provides comfortable and rather luxurious changing rooms, a well-stocked pro-shop and a restaurant with beautiful terrace seating so you can marvel at the truly spectacular scenery and enjoy the whole vista from the 270-degree view, open-air restaurant.

The atmosphere here is relaxed and has a genuine welcoming and personal feel, which is further exacerbated by the very helpful and polite staff. If you translate ‘Santiburi’ from Thai into English, it literally means ‘peaceful village’, which is a perfect description.

The restaurant serves a mixture of Thai and western food, and is much more affordable than you might think. Especially when you take into account that this great location, with its terrific view, allows you to take in both the sunrise and sunset. Opening hours are from 6:00 am just before sunrise, until 8:00 pm, about an hour after sunset.

If you are an early bird and like to get up with the larks, it’s a great spot to have breakfast.

Portions are on the generous side, setting you up perfectly either before or after you play an invigorating round of golf, or even enjoy a brisk walk, stroll, jog or cycle on the well-maintained roads and paths around the course, which are also free of any pesky street dogs! The breakfast menu includes eggs cooked in every which way you can think of; fried, boiled, poached, scrambled or as an omelette. If you have a big appetite, try the hearty and very substantial Santiburi Breakfast; eggs, bacon, pork sausage, grilled tomatoes and sautéed mushrooms, with toast, fruit juice or fruit salad and tea, coffee or Ovaltine. Or choose from the American, Continental and Asian breakfasts. Alternatively, just make up your own. It’s a sure-fire way to a fantastic start to your day. And if you are up for Early Bird golf which is before 7:00 am any day, there is currently a whopping 60% promotional discount off the green, golf cart and caddie fee, for either nine or 18 holes.

If you prefer to have a lie in whilst on holiday, don’t worry, the breakfast menu is available all day, as well as a good selection of appetisers, main courses, soups, salads and desserts. The menu is predominantly Thai with ever-popular dishes such as; spring rolls, prawn tempura, chicken or pork satay with peanut sauce, an array of spicy salads such as Som Tam Talay (a spicy green papaya salad with mixed seafood, string beans and peanut), chicken with cashew nuts, green curry, and a really great Pad Thai Goong (fried noodles with prawns). If Thai food is not for you, there are plenty of western choices such as club sandwiches, burgers, German sausages or leg of pork, spaghetti, lasagne and good old fish and chips, with locally caught fish.

In addition to the main menu, there are a number of set meal choices, all consisting of five courses; an appetiser, soup, salad, main course and dessert. And the prices really are excellent value for money. The clubhouse can also host events.

Catering for up to 100 people, the venue can be used for functions such as weddings and birthdays, as well as conference groups or any other event you may be planning.

Some guests come along just for the daily happy hour from 5:00 pm until last orders at 7.30 pm.

You can order a 240 ml pitcher of Singha beer for just 150 baht, great value and ideal for sharing while relaxing at one of the terrace tables and enjoying the views or catching up on current affairs with the newspapers and magazines available. The restaurant also stocks a good selection of red or white wines from some of the world’s best wine-producing areas as well as conjuring up cocktails, mocktails and soft drinks.

There is certainly something for every occasion, everyone and every budget.

Anyone from beginner to novice is also welcome to play a round of golf. You don't have to be a member or have your own golf clubs. Everything can be rented from the clubhouse at reasonable prices, and the excellent and very proficient caddies will help and advise you throughout your game. There are no handicap requirements, but beginners are advised to start on the somewhat easier first nine holes of the course, due to the demanding and hilly environment. The course itself has a distinctive character with every hole delivering its own unique challenge for the golfer.

There are steep uphill and downhill slopes that create multiple playing levels. There are long winding fairways, as well as breath-taking gorges, bunkers and lakes that serve to challenge and improve the golfer’s skills and experience.

Prices are very reasonable for the quality of this championship course, and every Wednesday all golfers receive 60% discount on the normal green, caddie and golf cart fees. There is also a special twilight promotion every day from 3.30 pm, with a massive 70% reduction for nine holes.

To get there, turn off the ring-road onto Maenam Soi 7, towards the interior of the island and follow the well-posted signs for ‘Santiburi Golf Course’.

Rise early with the larks if you can, ascend the hills, marvel at the views and tropical landscaping, savour the cool, calm, clean air and the magical sunrise and enjoy a relaxing breakfast at Santiburi’s ‘peaceful village’. What better way is there to start a simply delightful day on Samui?

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 077 421700-8. www.santiburi.com

www.siamwininganddining.com

13

Worlds Apart

Thai vegetables are so unfamiliar to the first-time visitor, that some seem to be from another planet.

When your plane’s flying over Thailand, look down and what do you see? It’s a mix of land and water, but above all foliage. Nature is definitely in control and doesn’t let up, not until you get within a few kilometres of Bangkok.

And when you fly over Samui you'll see that the interior of the island is mostly nothing but endless vegetation.

Plant life in Thailand dwarfs human life. Humans may build in stone, concrete, glass and steel – on the ground Bangkok seems never to end – but our sway is precarious. The plants are just waiting; talk to any gardener here and he or she will tell you how ubiquitous the plants are, how you can cut them back one day, burn or poison them, it doesn’t matter – but they’ll be right back. Capping the land in concrete is the only way to go if you want to dispense with them entirely, though they'll attempt to through the cracks soon enough.

Once you step off the plane, you enter a hothouse world. Plants, shrubs, bushes and trees all shoot up towards the sun, and many will be totally unknown to all but seasoned visitors. One of the real treats when it comes to this bright and verdant world is seeking out its produce.

Take a trip to the market – any market at all, or

14 www.siamwininganddining.com

even the supermarket – and you'll find a profusion of the most amazing vegetables. Sure enough, you can find your potatoes, carrots and onions, but I guarantee it won’t be those that catch your eye. You may well believe you've wandered into some parallel world. Some of what you'll see piled high is unbelievable. You might even think that the vegetables have been imported from another planet or stepped out of some whacked-out lab, the product of some frenzied and giddy scientific experiment.

The truth is that all of what you see are common or garden vegetables here in Thailand. They're part and parcel of what makes up Thai cuisine, what gives it some of its more indefinable tastes.

Don't waste your time looking for Thai vegetables back at home – you won’t find that much, unless you're blessed with a particularly large Asian market. But here in Thailand, the produce is so plentiful that you might wonder how even this largish nation of 60 million people manages to munch its way through a half of it.

But they do, as it’s all good for cooking once you know how to make the best of the tastes, flavours and textures of each of the vegetables.

Starting off with something that’s easily recognizable, the Chinese or purple eggplant

(makuea muang) looks much like its western counterpart. Indeed it has the same colour and taste. It’s used is used in stir-fries or is steamed.

But you'll never guess that the Thai eggplant (makuea praow) is its sibling. For a start it looks totally different: it’s as round as a golf ball and just a little bigger, and it’s a light green colour. It can be eaten raw and you'll often find it thrown whole into your green curry. And no, it doesn’t taste much like a western eggplant.

You'll also find plenty of roots are used in Thai cooking. Taro root (pueak) is used in making Thai desserts and pastries. Taro also comes in a purple variety. Then there’s boniato (mun tet) is primarily used in making Thai desserts. Boniato, as well as taro, is available at many Asian markets. Yucca root (mun sum pa lunk) or tapioca or cassava is used to make Thai desserts.

These roots may barely look appetizing, but if you know what to do with them, you can certainly turn them into an outlandishly good pudding. “What’s in it?” people will ask you.

“Just this lumpy old root that I got down at the market,” should be your enigmatic reply.

Thailand’s home to plenty of elongated vegetables, such as bitter melon (marah) used in stir-fries and soups. It’s not a fruit, by the way,

and as its name suggests, it’s really bitter. Then there’s lin fah (dragon’s tongue) which is most often cooked by steaming. It goes well with fish sauce More lookalike vegetables come in the shape of the smooth loofa gourd (buap homm) and then the thicker fuzzy squash (fak kiow). Sometimes called moqua in Asian markets, you'll need to remove the hairs before you cook it. Then there’s opo squash (nam tao), also known as the bottle gourd or calabash. All three are used in soups and stir-fries.

Something that’s totally unrecognizable to the westerner are the whitish lumpy bamboo shoots (naw mai) used in some Thai curries and highly popular in Isaan. It comes as a surprise to many that bamboo can be eaten, and not just made into furniture. (And no, once cooked it doesn’t taste wooden.) Not to be confused of course with the more familiar daikon (Hua Pak Got Kao), an Asian favourite, and sold whole.

Last but never least, no trip into the world of Thai vegetables could ever be remotely complete without the mention of ‘parkia speciosa’. That’s the Latin and entirely elegant name for what’s officially known as stink beans (sataw). These

beans grow hanging from a tree, wrapped in a tough outer skin of twisted pods that grow in clusters. You'll come across them stir-fried into curries along with strong-tasting ingredients such as garlic, chillies, and shrimp paste.

With their methane smell, they may put you off, but suffice to know the beans are highly prized throughout Thailand and South-East Asia. You'll find them hanging from the doors of restaurants and being shown off at stalls. Why? Because the taste is so delicious. Your first sight of them will make your jaw drop as they're so large and appear a little like oversize peas in their pods.

On Samui as elsewhere, you'll see them dangling from motorbikes being carried home from the markets.

Thailand’s exotic world is one fantastic garden with all manner of vegetables and can only be admired. In fact that question, ‘What on earth is that?’ sums up most people’s reaction to the more outlandish of Thai vegetables. See them for yourself – they're waiting to mesmerize you with their strange beauty – but above all, taste them.

Dimitri Waring

www.siamwininganddining.com

15

Off the Beaten Track Unusual desserts abound in the world’s hardest-to-reach places.

Probably nobody has ever been on a culinary journey to taste all five of these unusual desserts which have languished in obscurity for too long.

But for some travellers, the flimsiest excuse will provide motivation to get on a train, bus or plane. Their bags have already been packed and are forever waiting by the front door. The goal of tasting some far-flung desserts is as good as any reason to embark on a round-the-world trip, worthy of Jules Verne. Planes are the niftiest way to bag all the desserts in the minimum amount of time, but more kudos, a lot more, would go to the person who travels by train and/or car. Anything slower would be unthinkable ... but why not by foot, donkey, bike, and so on? Combining painfully slow transport with obscure desserts seems somehow ... strangely lucid.

Here then are a handful of the world’s desserts, mostly famed only in the countries where they're eaten. Loved to bits at home, in other words, but unknown abroad. Connect the dots on the world map and you'll have your own maverick itinerary.

and traditionally, this far north, it’ll be Sami cuisine. This is the traditional cuisine of the Sami people from the Sápmi territory, which spans Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. The Sami, have kept their traditions alive and well in all four countries, though with variations. In the barren latitudes of Northern Norway, a typical dessert is Jåbmå. It’s made of the leaves of mountain sorrel, which is first cooked to a stew and then served with sugar and milk. A lot more international is its rival, cloudberry jam and ice-cream. But if you prefer something instantly familiar, coffee and cheese is on most menus!

Southern Chile: A long haul takes the dessert aficionado to the opposite end of the earth; if Hammerfest is the northernmost town, then Puerto Williams in Chile, is the absolute southernmost city by latitude (though again it has its contenders).

Both places have freezing climates, but when it comes to desserts, both have completely different styles. Sitting in a restaurant in Puerto Williams you’d be quite likely to enjoy desserts with Middle-Eastern origins. Eh? How come?

Northern Norway and Environs: Hammerfest claims to be the northernmost city in the world, although that’s hotly contended by another town. But since they're both in Norway, it doesn’t matter when it comes to dessert.

Spoons descend on the same kind of fare here,

16 www.siamwininganddining.com

Chile’s desserts date way back to the 16th century, when the country was colonized. Most recipes can be traced back to nuns and cooks who came over with the boats. After getting to grips with the fruits, nuts and spices of the new country, they began to adapt them to the recipes

from Iberia. A few of these recipes had, in turn, been heavily influenced by the Moors, who had settled on the Iberian Peninsula and had left a culinary legacy featuring such stars as alfajores, a type of pastry from the Middle East and sopaipilla, which undoubtedly owes its name to a word used by the Moors, sopaipa, or fried dough. The Chilean variant is made of zapallo, a white-shelled squash with orange flesh.

Mongolia and the Gobi Desert: Zipping diagonally across the earth brings you to Mongolia, where desserts are necessarily quite different. Sugar, milk, syrup, butter, salt and then a generous helping of sweetened, condensed milk go to make one of Mongolia’s favourite desserts, simply called Mongolian Fudge. Due to its climate, the region doesn’t have many fruits that can grow there, so desserts are generally restricted to those that can be made from staples such as poppies or apples. (It’s a bit of a surprise but you can also find apple crumble here.) Cooking’s done in a yurt or ger, with heat provided by a wood stove. The dish is another example of a practical nomadic lifestyle, in which modern kitchens aren’t to be found, and rocks and fire are used instead of an oven. Before you're invited to eat Mongolian Fudge, you may well have already enjoyed an entire meal with a family – they'll be happy to show you their unique way of life.

Southern Morocco and the Sahara Desert: From one arid region to another. Moroccan desserts are particularly striking, relying on an often intense mix of flavours, which some people find overpowering. However, if you have a sweet tooth you'll probably love them.

North Africa is filled with surprises when it comes to cooking. In Morocco, a special kind of copper still, or ‘katara’, is used to prepare orange flower water. Desserts using orange flower water can be found right down into the south of the country, where the Sahara takes over.

One of these is ghoriba. It’s highly tasty and is comprised of few ingredients, mainly baking powder, orange flower water, vanilla and eggs.

There are many variations, and you can also add sesame, coconuts, semolina, dates and walnuts.

Ghoriba is popular on just about any occasion, as is rice pudding, which is made with oranges, sesame and dates, all of which are typically found all over Morocco.

The World’s Most Isolated Island: So far, so good, but this last pudding may be truly difficult to get. And even if you've managed to move under your own steam so far, you'll now need a ship. The dessert is to be found on Tristan da Cunha, arguably the world’s most remote island. It’s in the middle of the

South Atlantic Ocean, halfway between Buenos Aires and Cape Town. You'll need to set aside a week for the journey by boat, as there’s no airport. The islanders are very friendly (they can’t be said to have become jaded by their low-key tourism industry) and will soon offer you dishes made with lots of potatoes, their prime crop. Potatoes come in many variations: boiled, baked, mashed and roasted. They are also to be found in a popular Tristanian pudding, snislen, which relies on dough served with jams or combined with raisins to make a sweet pudding. It’s sophisticated fare in comparison to how the islanders ate in the 1930s, when they’d row their boats out into the vast ocean, track down passing ships and barter with them.

These days, photos and write-ups reach us from all over the world, and some say that opportunities for true discovery have all but gone. Maybe everywhere has been mapped but going there for yourself will always be a wonderful experience. It’ll be a while before any of the desserts mentioned will appear on international menus, but until that happens, they’ll always seem tastier if you’ve made the long haul to get to them.

Dimitri Waring

Fabulous February Impiana Resort introduces a variety of beach dining extravaganzas.

Impiana Resort in Chaweng Noi, is perfectly located to offer exceptional and unique beach dining experiences. Sitting on a pristine stretch of sandy beach and overlooking the Gulf of Siam with its cooling sea breezes, it’s a great place to wine and dine your evenings away.

And now Impiana brings Ulaan Batur to Koh Samui every Wednesday evening, with their Mongolian Buffet Night. There is an amazing variety of dishes on offer. Appetisers and salads such as Deep-Fried Chicken Curry Samosa and Sesame Crusted Tofu Salad with Broccoli and Bell Pepper. Some very different choices of barbequed skewers such as Bacon Wrapped with Enoki Mushroom. And main courses focusing around the Mongolian wok, where they also offer cooking demonstrations. Make your own choice of meat or seafood and add in your favourite veggies, making it a healthy combination. With a choice of desserts to follow, it’s an adventurous meal out, and all for only 690 baht net per person.

And lucky wives, husbands, romantics, lovers or even ‘just good friends’, can celebrate in style on Tuesday 14th February, with a very special and romantic Valentine’s Day set dinner on the beach. Enjoy a Classic Red Tuna Carpaccio accompanied by prawn ravioli, caper berry, mixed micro-salad and avocado wasabi puree.

Follow this with Strawberry Gazpacho & Smoked Salmon Soup, and Blood Orange Granita and Orange Caviar. For a main course choose between Pan-Seared Snow Fish, with beetroot puree, wakame seaweed salad and orange apricot sauce or Roast Lamb Eye of Loin with

mint and pea mash, garlic puree, root vegetables and red wine balsamic jus. Linger over the luscious Long Love Strawberry and White Chocolate Tart dessert. The net price of 4,900 baht for two people includes a bottle of rose sparkling wine, two hours of free-flow cocktails, juices and soft drinks and a romantic table for two set up on the beach, surrounded by candles.

Perfect for celebrating your love and affection for each other this Valentine’s Day. Additionally, there is a Valentine’s Buffet at Sabai restaurant on the beachfront for the net price of 1,500 baht per person, which includes a glass of sparkling rose sparkling wine. Appetisers and salads include; Cajun Chicken Wrap, Smoked Salmon on Melba toast and Love Liver Pate Tart Cup, Ottolenghi’s Tuna Confit Salad and Couscous Salad with crab meat. Plus Thai salads including Spicy Seafood Salad with Thai herbs.

Then there is a carving station with roasted barbeque ham and top lamb leg. Among the main courses are Yellow Curry with Chicken, Glazed Teriyaki Salmon with Cabbage and Leek and Grilled Duck Breast with Spinach and Orange Sauce. And accompaniments include mixed mushrooms with truffle oil sauce, mixed vegetables with herb and butter sauce and roast potatoes with rosemary and rock salt. If you are still peckish try the Mango Panna Cotta or Tiramisu.

And the fun doesn’t stop there. Every day of the week there is a different dining theme to look forward to from 7:00 pm until 10:00 pm, with extra special offers every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. If four of you dine, you only

pay for three. So, call up your friends, make up that foursome or more and have an awesome beach dining evening out.

Every Monday is the Classical Thai Buffet. Great if you want to try some Thai food, but aren’t really sure what you like. With the buffet, try a little, leave it or go back for more if you love it.

Tuesdays offer Catch of the Day with locally caught seafood fresh from the market. Price is by weight and there is a complimentary soup, bread and salad bar to accompany your choice.

Wednesday sees the Mongolian evening and Thursday gives you a Supreme Steak promotion.

If you love your steak, do not miss this perfect opportunity to indulge.

Celebrate the start of the weekend with a Friday night Beach Barbeque. Saturday is Surf and Turf evening - succulent meat and fish cooked just as you like it, with complimentary accompaniments.

Sunday is the perfect way to round off your weekend with a traditionally western Roast Chicken Dinner with all the trimmings, and don’t forget the four for three promotion! Every evening is accompanied by a live band, requests are encouraged so you can wine and dine your evening away to your favourite tunes.

The management at Impiana know a thing or two about customer service. Not only do they train their staff to be exceptionally polite, friendly and helpful, but they also understand the importance of liquid refreshment! With that in mind, they are offering some extremely attractive beverage promotions that run every day. The Chang Draught Beer Promotion might

be right up your alley. Buy two draft beers and get the next one free. There are also six dedicated and very happy hours from 12 noon until 2:00 pm, 5:00 pm until 7:00 pm and 9:00 pm until 11:00 pm, with buy one get one free on selected soft drinks, local beers, standard spirits and cocktails.

Since the focus is on beach events, it would be remiss to not mention the aptly named Beach Bar, a two-storey construction right on the beach under the shade of some large mature almond trees. The ground floor houses the bar and seating area, including bean bags right on the beach. Sip a cool iced beer whilst listening to the waves lap onto the shore. The food menu here includes all your western favourites in addition to daily lunch specials from the barbeque. You can also order from one of the other restaurants and get it delivered to Beach Bar. Nothing is too much trouble. Upstairs is a terrace large enough to host a wedding party, private function or even a romantic meal for two under the beautiful almond trees. Beach Bar is open from 10:00 am until 1:00 am with last orders at midnight.

Away from the beach, but still on the fringes of the sand is Sabai restaurant. Sabai means to relax in English and that’s exactly what you can do in this shady all-day restaurant that offers breakfast, lunch and dinner. The menu has a great selection of Thai and International cuisine. Enjoy your meal or snack with a large selection of wines, beers spirits or cocktails, and don’t forget those six happy hours. Sabai is open for breakfast until 10.30 am, and then it’s an all-day dining experience until 10.30 pm.

Directly above Sabai, is Tamarind Bar and Lounge, a cosy, open-sided dining area with an elevated outlook, neatly divided into a games room, lounge and bar, plus a terraced outer dining area that’s intimate and relaxed. This is a one-stop chill zone, perfect for enjoying the elevated ocean views whilst sipping a cool beer, glass of wine or cocktail and perusing the authentic Thai food menu. Opening hours are from 11:00 am until 11:00 pm.

If you would like to arrange something truly extra-special, then it’s easy to organise a romantic dinner on the beach with a private chef cooking just for you. This includes flowers and a beautiful gazebo which houses your private table and for a seriously memorable occasion, request a sprinkling of 200 candles scattered around you on the sands.

Impiana Resort really has a tremendous amount to offer for all you true wining and dining fans out there. All events are open to in-house guests and visitors alike. Residents can apply for a Samui Privilege Card and get a whopping 25% discount. So, don’t be shy, check availability, reserve a table and visit in fabulous February, or any time soon after.

Karan Ladd For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7744 8994. www.impiana.com

Beachside Dining at its Best

餐厅-歡迎中國貴賓

Romantic Dinner I Seafood Basket with Lobster For reservations, please call 077 230 222 www.siamwininganddining.com 17

The Wine Page When it comes to enjoying wine, temperature matters!

They say size matters. Especially in certain physical aspects of life that were more important to me when I was younger. However, when it comes to wine, which is a more prevalent temptation these days, temperature matters. It could be that I am a grump. Or maybe anticipating that time when I’m not expected to be anything else but grumpy. But I must call attention to an almost reflex practice among many wine drinkers that troubles me in the extreme. It’s the habit of not chilling red wines and over chilling some white wines far too much.

This is perhaps, a pointless argument to make in a country that loves things icy cold, spicy hot or super sweet. Ice cubes abound, in just about any beverage, all while revelling in the shivery chill of air-conditioned bars, restaurants, cars and offices. Nonetheless, I feel that I must try, if only because it is clear to me that drinking over chilled, bloody good, white wine, deprives me of fully enjoying the complex aromas and delicious flavours in the glass. This is not a new discovery.

Basic science makes clear that raising the temperature at which a wine is served, allows the various compounds to evaporate and rise, thus the wine’s aroma that contributes so much enjoyment on the palate. As an Englishman, I have often had to explain why English real ales are served at slightly under room temperature, but not warm, as Aussies and Americans like to critique. These often-superb ales are, like wine, full of flavours, with subtle and delicate nuances that would be inhibited by excess chilling.

In a previous column, I suggested, in passing, that Chablis should not be served too cold. But now, with the consumption of high quality white wines rising, I think it‘s worth making the point clearly and explicitly. To enhance the pleasure of drinking a good white wine, please do not serve it too cold. This suggestion may not be so easy to follow if you’re in a restaurant. White wine may well come to the table straight from the refrigerator, and head straight for the ice-water bucket. Many wine waiters know better, but they are accustomed to consumers who want to keep white wine a notch above freezing. Nonetheless, I appreciate it when someone takes the trouble to ask you whether you want the wine on ice, or prefer the bottle left on the table. (The table, please!) Although, I should say right here that wines without much complexity to offer, which might be over sweet and out of balance (ok, cheap), are best enjoyed with low temperatures masking their flaws. Like a one-dimensional boxed white wine, or a light rosé devoid of much personality. These are quaffing wines, and best guzzled cold for their pure icy refreshment and alcoholic gratification.

But what if that rosé were dry and spicy, with pleasing mineral and herbal flavours, like a wonderful Hugel et Fils, from Alsace, I had the pleasure of drinking not so long ago? I might not have known it was anything more than a vibrant

Manathai Koh Samui 18 www.siamwininganddining.com

Samui Ring Road

Lamai

Telephone 0 7745 8560-4

www.manathai.com

colour of pale ruby, if I had consumed it at a low temperature. And the other night I pulled a cherished bottle of white Bordeaux from the fridge, opened it, and poured it right away. It might well have been an anonymous inexpensive white. As it warmed, though, its creamy texture and complexities emerged. It was waxy and floral with depth and detail, even at room temperature.

Not that most whites are best enjoyed at room temperature. Admittedly, that would be too warm. I recently tried a gorgeously dry French Riesling that was lightly chilled. It was ideal, full of mineral and floral aromas, steely on the palate. At room temperature, though, it seemed flat, without energy or lift. Some wine enthusiasts argue that sparkling wines and sweet wines need to be served even colder than dry still whites, but I’m afraid I must take the other side. If the wine is complex and balanced, its personality will be hidden if served too cold. But again, if the sparkling wine is not that good, allowing it to warm up will only reveal its flaws.

Alas, as with so many wine issues, serving temperature is a little complicated. The fact is each white wine probably has its own ideal temperature. Yet for me, the starting point ought to be lightly chilled. In cooler climes, it’s a lot easier to cool a bottle in ice water for 15 minutes than it is to warm up. Alternatively, in a tropical climate, like Thailand’s, over chilled wines will soon warm up. This brings me to drinking red wine in the tropics. In a hot climate, all red wines need to be chilled, to some degree. The room temperature rule started in Europe, before the days of central heating, and in most places where wine was stored, it would have averaged around 18 degrees centigrade - the perfect temperature for most medium to full-bodied red wines. These days, for lowering the temperature of red wines, I highly recommend cellaring wines in the bottom of the fridge (or even better, in a purpose built wine fridge), and simply taking out the bottle 15 minutes prior to drinking, works perfectly. And handily, if you are gasping, after a hard day, half a glass of the chilled mood-changing red nectar will always warm up quickly when cupped in one’s hand.

Finally, please don’t forget that young, fruity red wines benefit most from chilling, and many of the world’s new style wines are drunk when they are young and fruity. Beaujolais (or Gamay) is the prime example, and Pinot Noir, Red Zinfandel, Granache, Pinotage and Primitivo all taste better, in warm weather, if they’ve spent 20 minutes in the refrigerator. Or, dare I say it, plunged in an ice bucket? Rules are meant to be broken, and particularly wine rules, in my humble (and now a lot less grumpy) opinion.

Peter Jones

Opening Times 10am – 1am

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort presents a wide range of restaurants and bars featuring a variety of cuisines to suit all tastes.

Premium cocktails and selected wines are also available in each outlet.

STAR

A stunning rooftop bar where you can sip our signature cocktails and enjoy some snacks while watching the sunset or gazing at the stars above.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs.

The Height

Sun Deck

Wine and Cigar Lounge

Oering an extensive menu of delightful Thai cuisine, the restaurant has both air-conditioned and open air seating options, all with stunning views of the surrounding sea.

Open: 17.00-22.30hrs.

Exclusive dining on the deck with breathtaking views.Enjoy International delights in a romantic setting with your loved one. Please reserve in advance.

Refreshments, cocktails and snacks with a selection of premium wines and cigars to enjoy the breathtaking view.

Open:18.00-22.30hrs.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort 208/66 Moo4, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84310 Thailand Tel: (+66) 077 960 555 Fax: (+66) 077 960 055 www. Silavadeeresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com

19

Rice Barge &

Terrace

Fine Beachside Dining at the Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine WEEKLY CALENDAR MONDAY - COWBOY DAY Cowboy Steak Night Buffet @ 1,129 Baht/person. Children half price Advance reservation discount 15% Costume Theme Night: Cowboy style will get 1 free bottle of beer Entertainment: The Barge Band TUESDAY - GRILLED NIGHT Lobster & Seafood Basket for 2 @ 3,500++ Steak Set for 2 @ 2,700++ or Seafood Set for 2 @ 2,700++ Entertainment: The Barge Trio Band WEDNESDAY - HAWAIIAN STYLE Hawaiian Seafood Buffet @ 1,290 Baht/person. Children half price Advance reservation discount 15% Entertainment: The Barge Band and Polynesian show THURSDAY - COCKTAILS DAY Lobster & Seafood Basket for 2 @ 3,500++ Steak Set for 2 @ 2,700++ or Seafood Set for 2 @ 2,700++ Free Flow Cocktails 5pm-7pm @ 950++/person/hour Entertainment: The Barge Trio Band EVERY DAY - FREE STYLE Thai Cooking Class & Bartender Master Class - Reservation required Happy Hours: Hillside Pool 1pm-3 pm. Beachside Pool 2pm-4 pm Lobby Lounge: 6pm-8pm. Rice Barge: 6pm-7pm. The Barge 9pm-10pm Private Dinner 3,500, 7,500, 8,500, 11,000 baht. Reservation required Free Flow Local Beer (Singha/Chang) @ 550++/person/hour Open Bar @ 650++/person/hour - Gin, Rum, Vodka, Red Label, Local Beer, Juice, Soft Drink Open Bar @ 850++/person/hour - Wine, Cocktails, Spirits, Local Beer, Juice, Soft Drink SATURDAY - WEEKEND DAY Chef Signature Food Set Menu 1,350 Food Only, 1,850 with Wine Pairing Entertainment: The Barge Trio SUNDAY - PASTA NIGHT Fresh Pasta and Pizza Corner and Salad Bar @ 550++/person

Rice Barge & Terrace Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North

It’s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & Spa Tuesday Night- Siam Kingdom Thai Night. We invite you to experience a variety of traditional Thai dishes.

Price THB 850 per person.

Thursday Night - East Meets West. Enjoy our chef’s special buffet creations. Price THB 950 net per person. Children 6-12 years old half price. Entertainment: Polynesian Show & Mariposa Duo. Thai Cooking Class Learn how to cook 3 authentic Thai dishes with our Thai Chef. Price THB 1,500 per person Inclusive of chef hat, apron, certificate and recipe.

Fruit Carving Class Price THB 1,500 per person. Inclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate.

Daily Happy Hour Beverages Special offer 50% off (Except wine, Corona beer, all spirits by the bottle) Pool Bar 1.00 pm - 2.00 pm & 4.00 pm - 5.00 pm. Prasuthon Restaurant 6.00 pm - 7.00 pm.

Lobby Bar 7.00 pm - 8.00 pm & 10.00 pm - 11.00 pm.

Romantic Private Dining Dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress.

Thai menu THB 5,000 per couple.

International menu THB 6,000 per couple.

Advance reservation required

For further information please telephone 0 7742 9400 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com

20 www.siamwininganddining.com