September 2015

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Round the World Just like its visitors, Samui’s food is truly international.

In the last decade or so, Samui has steadily morphed from culinary oblivion to a world-class dining destination. The island prides itself on beautifully presented and highly tasty cuisines, as well as all the drinks to go with them.

the island, and sample a plethora of dishes ranging from tasty Thai curries through fusion food to top-notch fare from all round the world. Popular international choices are French, Italian and all manner of different temptations from South-East Asia.

Day and night, holidaymakers and residents take their place at thousands of tables around

Samui gets rave reviews when it comes to food (not to mention climate, sea, sun and the general beauty of the island) whilst prices

remain surprisingly affordable given all the imports that are required.

The various sections of our newspaper this month bring to life some of what’s going on round the island. But remember it’s only the tip of a gastronomic iceberg which is truly huge. Once you set out to explore Samui’s possibilities for food and drink, you'll be quite amazed what your search brings you. Enjoy!

SAMUI

Graeme Malley Editor

Preeda Tuajob (Puy) Graphic Designer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon (Don) Photographer

Seksak Kerdkanno (Klauy) Webmaster

Rob De Wet Feature Writer

Dimitri Waring Feature Writer

Natalie Hughes Feature Writer

Peter James Feature Writer

Nipawan Chuaysagul (Ning) Sales & Marketing Director ning@siammap.com Tel: 0 898 783 891

Henrik Bjørk Managing Director

Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6, Samui Ring Road, Moo 3, Bo Phut, Samui, 84320 Thailand Tel: (66) 0 7742 2201 Fax: (66) 0 7741 3523 email: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission from Siam Map Company Ltd. Whilst every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. c Siam Map Company Ltd. 2015

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Playfully Fine A fine-dining phoenix has arisen – we look at what the Manathai group has created, deep in the heart of Lamai.

Once upon a time, not so very long ago, a big thing happened in Lamai. A new development appeared. Lamai has always been a sort of little sister compared to the frenzied spread of Chaweng. But, over time, bigger and better resorts and attractions appeared. More than a few top 5-star resorts staked their claim. Tesco Lotus built its second outlet there. The mirrored landmark of the ‘IT Center’ appeared. And more or less right in the middle of all of this, a grandiose avenue sprang up, designed along old colonial lines, with a hotel at one end, a broad walkway with parking in the middle, and a big Thai eatery attached on the beach side, just across the adjacent ring-road.

Sad to say, this didn’t really stand the test of time.

The elegant architecture was substantial, although the beach restaurant never really took off. But today everything has changed. There’s new management with some very crisp thinking – a Thai company known as ‘Manathai’. They’ve retained the attraction of the colonial esplanade, but completely refurbished the hotel. And they’ve completely re-designed and rebuilt the beachside restaurant and the poolside layout that borders it.

All too often you’ll see a place which looks really super, and then be disappointed by what’s under the hood – good design and bright paint can’t make up for poor service or apathetic staff.

But with Manathai, you only have to spend a few moments on TripAdvisor to realise just what a gem it is. More than a few visitors have been so pleased that they’ve written long and enthusiastic reports. Better still, each one has notched up a personal reply by the resort’s General Manager, Khun Natalie Kamolwattanasoontorn. This is a resort that has not only trained its staff to an exceptional standard, but also had the foresight to carefully select the right sort of people in the first place!

And, in the same way, they’ve brought-in not only a very original and creative chef, but also one who is engaging and articulate, too. Roberto Bellitti is Italian. He came on board from the Mövenpick group, and was working with

Manathai for some time before he landed on Samui, where for the last year or more he’s been overseeing the other restaurants – there are actually five here altogether, including the resort’s in-house day restaurant, Pad Thai, Coffee World, and the Irish pub, Mulligans. But, more importantly perhaps, Roberto has been working on the concept and cuisine for the fine-dining gem that has now appeared across the road, at the edge of the beach. This is ‘Waterline’. It’s been quite a while in the making. And it’s really something rather special.

“It’s just so easy for a chef to fall into a mainstream groove,” Roberto explained. “If you grew up around classical French cuisine, then your career develops with that as a base. If you grew up in Italy, then you specialise in northern Italian food, or southern, or widen it a bit and go for Mediterranean cuisine. That’s why almost all good restaurants seem to offer one of just three or four different cuisines; the rest is up to the individuality of the chef, but he’s still rooted within the limitations of his early training.”

“But I’ve got a different outlook,” he continued.

“I’ve travelled all over the world, and have fond memories of many places. If I close my eyes and let my mind roam, it will pause on good times in different countries – and the food I enjoyed there. So why not have a cuisine of memories? Why not offer dishes with ingredients or flavours from North Africa, or drawing upon elements from Pakistan or Jamaica? This isn’t the old idea of some kind of clumsy ‘fusion’. This is an eclectic and diverse collection of different foods and flavours, but they’re also all coherently brought together onto one menu with a consistent theme and approach!”

This is indeed a menu of stories and memories.

And each dish has its own enigmatic name that tells a tale. Take the ‘Salmon in the Garden’, for example. Essentially, it’s a salmon steak with vegetables and salad. But it’s playful. The log of prime salmon sits in the middle, surrounded by shrubs and bushes of springs of parsley in little flowerpots made of curls of carrot, and the sauce comes in a little flowerpot. It’s almost too

cute to be food – until you eat it. The textures and flavours play off against each other, with the tang of the orange subdued by the coriander, and the live tangle of the sprouting cress together with the crunchy ‘soil’ (toasted breadcrumbs ‘al nero di calamari’) sublimely complementing the melt-in-your-mouth salmon.

The unambiguously titled ‘Raw’, on the other hand, isn’t whimsically presented to look like a Toy Town veggie plot. The plate of raw beef (prime imported Australian sirloin) just sits there and stares at you with its one eye (in this instance, a raw quail egg). Not so many people get excited by the idea of beef tartare – at least, not the way they serve it in Germany. But this’ll have you squealing with delight. There are capers and onions and sesame oil, wasabi, and subtle little pellets of foie gras. The slight crunch of the pickled vegetables dances in your mouth with the creamy hit of the guacamole, and every mouthful is a joy that has you scrabbling at the plate for more. It’s superb!

The whole menu is like this. At first glance, names like ‘When I was Little’ or ‘Surfing the Waves’ might seem coy or gimmicky – until you taste them! There have been hundreds of hours spent, compiling and refining, adding a little of this and a touch more of that, tasting and testing until each one is a complete and unique work of mouth-art in its own right. A whole menu of playful little taste-bud treats, just waiting to pounce and take you by surprise. In Lamai. At Waterline. Across the road and arisen from what was once known as ‘Buddy’. But now it’s now Manathai’. And that’s a name you’re going to remember!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7745 8560-4. www.manathai.com/samui

Romantic views, soothing sounds and classic Italian fare with a modern approach combine to please the most discerning diner.

Olivio - a must for visitors and locals alike.

Olivio ~ beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort Chaweng Beach.

Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500 www.siamwininganddining.com

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Tropical Pick Cashews are addictively tasty, yet have a dark side to them.

The cashew doesn’t look outstanding, though it has a delicious taste, but it’s a lot more than just another nut. The more you find out about the cashew, the more complex it seems to be.

There’s also a disturbing side to this humble nut, but we’ll come to that in a moment.

The cashew is blonde and kidney-shaped. It’s also surprisingly soft when compared to other nuts, and has a faintly buttery taste. It comes from a tree known as anacardium occidentale, which is a native of Brazil. Many people think the cashew is Indian in origin but this isn’t true at all; the cashew plant travels well and was brought to India, in the 1500s, by the Portuguese. It loves the tropics and thrives in the heat and is fairly easy to grow. If you're on Samui you'll see cashew trees here and there and you can take a closer look at them. The cashew fruit has two parts. First and foremost, the so-called cashew apple, and then growing out of the base of this, the nut itself, looking a bit like a comma. Inside the nut you'll find the kernel.

Once they're ripe, the cashew apples fall to the ground. Sometimes you'll see the tree being gently tapped to ease the process. The fruit is then gathered and allowed to dry in the sun over two days. So far so good. But now we come to the darker aspects of the cashew.

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The cashew nut has a double shell and the space in between is filled with a black liquid that is basically very, very toxic; it can cause your skin to blister on contact, as it is so caustic.

Those who work process cashews have to be very careful; a common complaint is the very painful blisters that the shelling can cause This is why it’s so hard to buy cashew nuts in an unpeeled state. In some countries it’s possible, but then you have the very dangerous task of peeling them yourself.

The liquid, by the way, isn’t thrown away as it has many commercial uses and is used in the making of such products as varnish, insecticide, paint, and even brake linings. It takes great expertise to shell cashews and requires inordinate patience. In India it’s done by hand, often in conditions so appalling that they’re on par with those of sweat-shop textile operations.

In Ho Chi Minh City, in Vietnam, the work falls to the homeless and to reforming drug addicts in exchange for meals and shelter – but no pay at all is given. The Guardian, a major UK daily newspaper, has gone a long way into uncovering the conditions amongst cashew workers and has an on-line interactive documentary. It says that for a “£2.50 bag of supermarket nuts, typically the supermarket earns just over £1, while the factory worker makes 3p.” Currently, more and

more people are finding out that those who work with cashew nuts need better working conditions and a fair wage, but progress is slow.

Cashews are a relative new-comer to Thailand, with the first consignment of plants arriving in 1901. They have become very popular and are now a staple in the Thai diet. You'll find bags of cashew nuts in every large supermarket.

You may wonder what happens to the fruit itself, the cashew-apple. It’s extremely rich in vitamin C, and is eaten raw, as well as made into jams and sweets. But the apple spoils extraordinarily quickly and cannot even be transported.

As long as you're not an agricultural worker processing cashews, their health benefits are quite amazing. The cashew is basically packed with goodness. Eat cashews and your daily recommended intake of copper will be 98%. ‘So what?’ you'll say. Indeed, it might sound academic. Does your body really need copper anyway? Well, if you have a deficiency of copper, then you open yourself to a legion of problems. Here’s the list: anaemia, ruptured blood vessels, osteoporosis, joint problems such as rheumatoid arthritis, brain disturbances, elevated LDL (bad) cholesterol and reduced HDL (good) cholesterol levels, irregular heartbeat, and increased susceptibility to infections. Any of these conditions are worth avoiding and the

cashew can definitely help. It also contains significant amounts of magnesium and zinc, along with plenty of vitamin B1, B2, B3, B6, E and K. In fact it sounds like a food supplement in itself.

Nuts in general are extraordinary good news if you want to improve your health significantly.

Best of all, no effort is involved. Simply eat nuts four times a week and you'll have reduced your risk of heart disease by over a third, compared to someone who never or rarely eats nuts. On top of that each further serving lessens your risk by 8% each time. So if you'd like to boost your cardiovascular health, consume a handful of cashews or other nuts, or a tablespoon of nut butter, at least four times a week.

A good many Thai restaurants serve the highly popular dish of chicken with cashew nuts. It’s stir-fried with the cashews being added right at the end. Many people consider it their favourite Thai dish, even though it’s usually eaten fairly mild.

Cashews often have a tendency to turn up in incredibly easy-to-make dishes. How about this if you’re pushed for time: simply sauté cashews with shrimp, basil and green beans for a tasty Thai-style dish. Cashews are incredibly versatile and can be found in recipes for curries, vegetables, salad, pasta, rice, stew, and even

desserts. Because of their softness, however, if they’re cooked too early on then they become very mushy.

But mushy can sometimes be good, as in the case of cashew butter. You can spread this directly onto bread, toast or crackers. It’s very easy to make; just blend cashews in a processor until you have a thick paste that has the same consistency as peanut butter. Make yourself a jar of cashew butter, though, and it won’t have the unhealthy additives that commercial peanut butter almost always contains. Just remember to keep it refrigerated. If you mix the mix cashew butter with some soy sauce, cayenne pepper, garlic, ginger and water over low heat, you can make a great sauce for vegetables, fish, and tofu dishes.

Most people who try cashew nuts love the taste, and their only regret is that they didn’t try them sooner. With its many health benefits, it’s worth adding cashews to your larder. Just be thankful you don’t have to shell them yourself.

Dimitri Waring

Exclusively Yours

We reveal more hidden gems - this time tucked away at Lamai’s Silavadee Pool Resort.

Samui has a problem. Well – not really – in fact it just makes life more fun! Here’s the thing: there are hundreds of restaurants here. There are big ones and fancy ones and little Thai ones, 5-star and shacks-on-the-beach, veggie, seafood and steak by the wagon load, fast food and slow food and cuisine from all lands. Many are super and some are superb. But, with all of these, there are only two types. There are the ones you can see – they’re right out in the open. And then there’s the other sort.

These are the ones that are hidden away. And some of the best eateries on the island come under this heading. The ones down a track and on the beach. Or those right up high, with wondrous views. And don’t forget I’m talking great food and service, as well as nice scenery!

There’s a whole treasure trove of dining gems hidden all around. Temples and tour spots are marked on the map. But some of the best places to eat are almost a secret. You’ve got to be in the know. Such as, for instance, with ‘Silavadee’.

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort, to give its full title, is quite central and easy to find. It’s right on the Chaweng edge of Lamai, not far from where the big hill starts that runs between the two. And anyway, a quick Google will soon map it out for you. There must be something about this serene little bay, as Silavadee shares its rustic access lane with no fewer than two other exalted 5-star names. And, like several other of the top resorts, it just delights in understatement.

Parking is easy, and the reception area will tickle your fancy – it’s just perched there, an unassumingly-elegant little wooden room, with no sign of anything else. In fact there a great deal more, but it’s all discreetly tucked away; the handful of golf carts will give you the clue to that. There are seven styles of beautifully-design and furnished private pool villas, plus a whole series of room-suites. There’s one of the best day spas on the island, plus a well-equipped fitness centre. And there are no fewer than four outstanding restaurants.

On Samui, when it comes to food, really we’re

talking about evening dining. People eat breakfast in-house, and lunch is a snack by the pool, it’s just too hot and humid to pile it up on your plate. And here at Silavadee there’s something rather nice. Their fine-dining Thai showcase is right up at the top, with stunning views, hence the name ‘The Height’ – more on this in a moment. And the lowest of the restaurants is on the beach, appropriately called ‘Sun’, with the air-conditioned ‘Moon’ above it, and then higher, the really cool and laid-back open terrace of ‘Star’. But here’s the clever bit.

Due to some very cunning design, they’re actually all in one block, but staggered, terraced and lushly landscaped, so you’d never, ever guess. But the highlight of this trio, when the sun starts to sink, is Star.

Star is perched above the others. And it’s an essay in mood and style. First impressions are it’s way up high, open and lofty. Then you’ll smile.

Because the design is so dramatic, yet so simple.

The surround is unassuming light grey scrubbed cement, low-lit and glowing. But it’s splashed with bright primaries – cushions and candles and daybeds. And it’s split-level. The raised part has laid-back sofas in the middle, with a bar, and a row of stools at the edge looking out to sea. But the smiley bit is the oh-so-exclusive dining area itself. This is a couple of steps lower. And each of the four (yes, only four) well-separated ‘tables’ are slabs with bench seats (festooned with cushions) that are actually sunken into an infinity pool – they’re all set inside and within a long, low pool which runs the length of this terrace.

It’s simply superb!

It goes without saying that the cuisine here is on a par with both the setting and the quality of the resort. But you won’t be overwhelmed with a huge à la carte menu. The selections here come in the form of a 6-course gourmet set-menu. It begins with ‘Baked White Prawns, Salmon and Red Tuna in White Wine Pernod Sauce, served with Japanese Caviar’. This runs into a sumptuous seafood soup course. And then there’s a choice of grilled duck breast or pan fried salmon, with all the trimmings. And it then slows down to meet the ‘Raspberry and Vanilla

Panna Cotta’ before coasting towards a coffee or tea to sip at the end. You can go for the straightforward menu, or can opt to pair it with the selected wines for each course – which just about everyone decides to do.

Mind you, there’s no need to jump in feet first, so to speak! You’re very warmly invited to arrive around sunset-time and take in a cocktail or two, and scout-out the dining options at the same time. The sun goes down over to the right, sinking into the twinkling lights of Lamai Bay. And that means the sky right out in front of you is a blaze of salmons, gold, pinks and azure as every fluffy cloud gets painted by the lowering sun.

But, of course, this is Thailand. You might well have decided to fine-dine Thai-style. Every resort offers Thai food. But there are very few that do this with the flair, elegance and choice of dishes you’ll find here, up at the top, at The Height.

This really is up high, and the view is panoramic through the walls of glass in the tastefully air-conditioned setting. Chef Suravichit and his team have dedicated themselves to collecting real, authentic dishes from all over the Kingdom, but specialising in southern Thai delicacies. The deep-fried catfish is a hard-to-find dish, as is the deliciously-exotic banana-flower salad. The menu, the presentation and the service here represent the epitome of Thai dining at its finest.

It’s up to you! Do the sunset cocktails, preview it, check out Star and The Height, and then give it your best shot. It’s yours, it’s exclusive, it’s really not to be missed – and it’s all at Silavadee!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7796 0555. www.silavadeeresort.com

Located in the beautiful Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach.

Our experienced chefs proudly present authentic Thai cuisine and Southern Thai dishes. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the tranquility of the beach, the twinkling stars and the whispering waves along with the beautiful music. A superb dining experience and great memories.

Fisherman’s Village

Tel: 077 430 030, 077 245 035 www.kruabophut.com

Free Parking available at The

Wharf!!

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A Plaice in Space When you’re in zero-gravity, eating and drinking becomes a job in itself.

Sending men and women into space seems such a regular occurrence these days that it barely gets a mention on the news. And yet it’s only 46 years since Neil Armstrong first walked on the moon. Aside from the actual mechanics of getting into a high-earth orbit and beyond, one of the major considerations was how and what the astronauts would actually eat when they were up there in zero gravity. And it wasn’t all plain sailing for those early pioneers.

According to NASA (conspiracy theorists can stop reading now), 12 men have walked on the moon in the period between 1969 and 1972. And 12 additional American men have orbited the Moon. As of November 6th, 2013, a total of 536 people from 38 countries have gone into space according to the FAI guidelines, whilst 543 people qualify under the U.S. definition. Space travellers have spent over 29,000 days (or a cumulative total of over 77 years) in space including over 100 days of spacewalks. And that amounts to a huge warehouse full of food and liquids.

One of John Glenn’s many tasks, as the first American to orbit Earth in 1962, was to experiment with eating in weightless conditions.

Some experts had been concerned that weightlessness would impair swallowing. Glenn experienced no difficulties, however, and it was determined that microgravity did not affect the natural swallowing process.

Astronauts in the early Mercury missions (1959-1963) disliked the food that was provided.

They ate bite-sized cubes, freeze-dried powders, and tubes of semi-liquids. The astronauts found it unappetizing, experienced difficulties in re-hydrating the freeze-dried foods, and didn’t

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like having to squeeze tubes or collect crumbs.

But they did have to ensure that they consumed enough calories, around 3,200 for men and 1,900 for the women (who would later go into space).

Several of the food issues from the Mercury missions were addressed for the later Gemini missions (1965-1966). Tubes (often heavier than the foods they contained) were abandoned.

Gelatine coatings helped to prevent bite-sized cubes from crumbling. Simpler re-hydration methods were developed and the menus were also expanded to include items such as: shrimp cocktail, chicken and vegetables, toast squares, butterscotch pudding and apple juice And, as proof that even the best trained people can rebel, the crew of Gemini III sneaked a corned beef sandwich on their spaceflight.

Mission Commander Gus Grissom loved corned beef sandwiches, so pilot John Young brought one along, having been encouraged by fellow astronaut Walter Schirra. However, Young was supposed to only eat approved food, and Grissom wasn’t supposed to eat anything.

Floating pieces of bread posed a potential problem, causing Grissom to put the sandwich away and the astronauts were mildly rebuked by NASA for the act. A congressional hearing was called, forcing the NASA deputy administrator George Mueller to promise no repeats. In future missions, NASA took special care about what astronauts brought along on their missions.

Crumbs and simple things like regular salt and pepper can’t be allowed to float around. There’s a danger they could clog air vents, contaminate equipment or get stuck in an astronaut’s eyes, mouth or nose.

Food options continued to expand for the Apollo missions (1961-1975). And the new availability of

hot water made re-hydrating freeze-dried foods simpler, and produced a more appetizing result.

The ‘spoon-bowl’ allowed more normal eating practices whereby food could be kept in special plastic zip-closure containers and its moisture allowed it to stick to a spoon. Larger living areas on the Skylab space station (1973-1974) meant there was room for an on-board refrigerator and freezer, which allowed perishable and frozen items to be stored and made the microgravity the primary obstacle. When Skylab’s solar panels were damaged during its launch and the station had to rely on minimal power from the Apollo Telescope Mount until Skylab 2 crewmembers performed repairs, the refrigerator and freezer were among the few systems that Mission Control kept operational. Menus included items such as processed meat products and ice-cream.

A dining room table and chairs, fastened to the floor and fitted with foot and thigh restraints, allowed for a more normal eating experience.

And the trays used could warm the food, and had magnets to hold eating utensils and scissors to open food containers.

personalized menus from lists of available foods including items like fruit salad and spaghetti. The crews sometimes request beef jerky for flights as it’s lightweight, nutritious, and can be utilized in orbit without packaging or other changes.

There’ve also been some cultural influences that are now requested and possible. In April 2008, South Korea’s first astronaut, Yi So-yeon, was a crew member on the International Space Station (ISS) and brought along a special version of Korea’s national dish, kimchi. It took three research institutes several years and millions of dollars to create a version of the fermented cabbage dish that was suitable for space travel.

And in June 2008, Gregory Chamitoff brought bagels into space for the first time. He was on STS-124 for ISS Expedition 17, and brought with him 18 sesame seed Montreal-style bagels from his cousin’s Jewish bakery.

Carbonated drinks have been tried in space, but are not favoured due to changes in burping caused by microgravity. Coca-Cola and Pepsi were first carried on STS-51-F, in 1985. Coca-Cola has flown on subsequent missions in a specially-designed dispenser that utilizes BioServe Space Technologies hardware used for biochemical experiments. Space Station Mir carried cans of Pepsi in 1996, but the experiment proved unsuccessful.

Nowadays, the shuttle astronauts carry some of the water needed for themselves, and also deliver water to the International Space Station. Over a year 2,200 litres are transported at a cost of $US11,000 per litre. The ISS also has a Russian-built device that processes the humidity in the air and condenses it for drinking and other purposes. On the shuttle, water is produced as a by-product of the orbiter’s fuel cells converting hydrogen and oxygen to electricity. Because of the massive cost of transporting water, NASA is working on a system that converts many of the astronauts’ body fluids – and, yes, that includes urine – into drinkable water.

Today, fruits and vegetables that can be safely stored at room temperature are eaten on space flights. Astronauts also have a greater variety of entrées to choose from, and many request

One of the most frequently asked questions that astronauts get is, “How do you go to the toilet in space?” A good question, and one that’s usually answered with a pause, a long stare and the

whispered reply, “Carefully!” In the absence of gravity, the collection and retention of liquid and solid waste is directed by use of air flow. Since the air used to direct the waste is returned to the cabin, it’s filtered beforehand to control odour and cleanse bacteria. In older systems, waste water is vented into space and any solids are compressed and stored for removal upon landing. More modern systems expose solid waste to vacuums to kill bacteria, which prevents odour problems and kills pathogens. Nice!

We could all eat ‘space food’ if we wanted to, we just don’t because we have far greater fresh choices, and always have. Interestingly though, Tang, originally marketed in 1959, saw an increase in popularity during the 1970s due to its inclusion on the manned space flights. And everyday food-packaging solutions like vacuum-packing and long-lasting (two years and more) freeze-dried products for the military came into being because of NASA’s research teams.

Space travel has come a long way in a relatively short period of time. And video footage from the space-station has shown astronauts making burgers on board the vessel. Perhaps the Star Trek concept of speaking into a machine and having whatever you want materialise instantly isn’t too far away. The term ‘a restaurant with lots of space’ takes on a whole new meaning!

Johnny Paterson

Sweet or Savoury but Always Savvy Take a Bread Cake and Bakery produces amazingly tasty goods for both Samui and Pha-Ngan.

On a daily basis, Khun Thiti Thongnamorn, better known as Chef Yom, creates wonderful rolls, loaves and all manner of cakes for his clients, who range from individual buyers to resorts, hotels and restaurants. He oversees an expanding business, and trains his staff to provide great-tasting products using the finest ingredients. And all at very reasonable prices.

The baking goes on all the time with the first batches being made at night, ready for the morning; the day officially starts at 5:00 am when the deliveries begin and bread and cakes are taken to various hotels all around the island, as well as across the water to Koh Pha-Ngan.

Precision’s called for as everything has to be delivered on time. Chef Yom’s customers rely on this, and so do the end-customers who expect breakfast to be ready for them when they sit down to eat. Bakers will tell you that when it comes to professionalism, it’s not just the quality of bread that counts – all the products have to be where they're supposed to be, and not still en route.

Running a small bakery can be exacting, but when you have the production requirements of Take a Bread, then it can become a truly hectic task. You'd think Chef Yom and his team would be rushed off their feet, but inside you'll see that this is one of those places where things are niftily and smoothly done. Everything’s relaxed and there’s even a small café out front, where people like to come and linger over coffee and a pain au chocolat or croissant. Wi-Fi’s available and there's no sense of rush.

In charge of it all, Chef Yom is a friendly, affable figure. His customers obviously like him and feel at home in the café; they all greet him and Take a Bread seems to be a crucial port of call along the ring-road for quite a few people. Cars pull up and Chef Yom disappears into the bakery emerging seconds later with wrapped goods that he hands to the drivers.

The bakery is called Take a Bread, he says, not just because it’s a pun on ‘take a break’ but also because getting hold of bread should be an easy thing to do: “You just come and take the bread

you want, as simple as that, but knowing that the quality is going to be extremely good and that the bread is fresh.” It sounds easy, but anyone who’s ever tried their hand at professional baking knows that it’s incredibly hard to do well. Not only does everything have to taste good, the supply has to maintain top quality. If you do that, then you'll get a lot more orders and that brings you straight to the next challenge: vastly increased production, but still with no loss of quality. Just as being a chef isn’t for everyone, neither is being a baker. It’s one of those professions most of us take for granted; wherever bread is part of a people’s diet, there are bakers working long nights producing the much-needed loaves.

there are many holiday makers. For most of them, bread is part of their diet. Amongst the Thais, bread is less of a staple, though is fast catching on.

Chef Yom’s had plenty of experience at his chosen trade. He opened Take a Bread three years ago, and it’s now thriving. He said he came to Samui because he was looking for a location where there was a need for quality bread and baked goods – and where better than this? The island is home to a large resident population from the West, and as well as that

Chef Yom also makes goods to order. So it’s no problem if you’d like a wedding, birthday or Christmas cake, or some goods for a party. He speaks good English so communication’s easy.

He’s a well-travelled person, having held jobs in catering in Singapore, Hong Kong, Malaysia, China and Taiwan. All in all he’s had 20 years’ experience as a chef.

And there’s variety, too, a whole array of possibilities when it comes to loaves. Chef Yom can make about a hundred different types of bread, so there quite literally is something for everyone. Some people still just want the original white square bread that used to be just about the only kind available on Samui, but now restaurants and hotels are keen to have a far more varied stock. His customers are very happy with the wide choice and quality he provides.

To get to Take a Bread, simply head towards Bophut on the ring-road and you'll see it on the left-hand side of the road, just a couple of hundred metres after Big C supermarket. You can’t miss it as you'll see the sign for the bakery just before the crest of the hill.

You'll be assured of a warm welcome and you can step inside to buy something or just enjoy a coffee outside, but you'll probably have no sense at all that you're in such a productive bakery. Everything’s focussed and calm and assured. The results are very, very good and you'll literally want to tuck in to them.

Dimitri Waring For further information, telephone 0 885 023 112 or 0 819 002 923.

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WAT

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Often Overlooked Paprika - the spice of youth?

For some, this vibrant coloured spice is quite literally the spice of life – their livelihoods depend upon its production, and their diet has many dishes that contain paprika. Travel down the country roads around the Hungarian town of Kaloscsa, located just six miles from the river Danube, in September, and you’ll be greeted by the sight of a lush red carpet of paprika covering the otherwise green fields. And should you really be lucky you’ll be in town for their annual paprika festival, yes, a whole festival is given over to this spice. Well, it is known as the national spice of Hungary. But did you know that it’s also the fourth most consumed spice in the world, being added to many foods for its colour and a dash of heat, in foodstuffs such as cheese, sausage and chilli powders, as well as being blended into beauty products?

on the type of pepper used. There are three main types of paprika with different varieties among these types. The first is ‘plain’ paprika which is what you’re more than likely buying at your local supermarket. This paprika generally originates from California, Hungary or South America and has a mild taste. Then there’s Hungarian paprika, which has eight grades or varieties which range in taste from delicate and mild, to sweet, to hot. Lastly there is Spanish paprika, or pimento as it’s also known, but which doesn’t have the heat of the Hungarian variety. Currently foodies are going big into smoked pimento from the region of La Vera in Spain, which not surprisingly is called La Vera Pimento, where farmers dry the peppers over wood fires to give the paprika a lovely smoky flavour.

But Kaloscsa truly has made paprika its spice of life; in the centre of town they even have a paprika museum, so if you have any questions about paprika, that’s the best place to start. I never knew that a spice could inspire such dedication – but first just what is paprika, exactly?

Probably most people, when they think of paprika, associate it with Hungarian goulash, but there are many dishes that call for this spice; even Indian cooking has incorporated it in some of its dishes. In the West it’s probably known as a spice to sprinkle on foodstuffs, for example, on the top of devilled eggs, to give them a bit of oomph. In Spain it can be found in chorizo sausages and some of the delicious tapas dishes.

However, commercial food manufacturers also use it in the manufacturing of cheese, tomato sauces and chilli powders. If you see any food item that is coloured red, orange or reddish

To start with, paprika can basically be made from any member of the ‘capsicum annum’ family, any red pepper. It is then dried, and crushed into flakes, and this is why there so many different varieties of paprika, depending

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Samui Ring Road

Lamai

brown and is labelled “natural colour” it is likely that paprika has been used as the colouring agent.

But far more than a humble spice, paprika has many health benefits, as well as benefits to the skin, almost way too many to list here.

Capsaicin is the active ingredient in chilli peppers that causes their heat, and capsaicin alone has also been shown to have many health benefits. One of its strongest properties is as an anti-inflammatory agent, which can ease the discomfort of arthritis and joint pain. It is even used in some ointments which are applied externally to help in the relief of aches and pains, including headaches. Laboratory experiments also found that capsaicin relaxes blood vessels, which in turn lowers blood pressure.

Paprika is also packed with nutrients. A single teaspoon of paprika contains 6% per cent of men’s and 3% of women’s daily recommended intake of iron. In addition it has high levels of vitamin C, six to nine times more than tomatoes.

There’s also vitamin A, which supports cell growth in the body, and vitamin B6 which helps reduce your chance of developing cardiovascular issues. One teaspoon of paprika also contains 5% of your daily recommended intake of vitamin E which is essential for a healthy body and healthy skin.

Telephone 0 7745 8560-4

Paprika is rich in beta-carotene which gets converted to vitamin A in the body, and, as mentioned already, is essential to cell growth which means that it prevents the occurrence of wrinkles and promotes healthy skin. Glowing skin is how some describe the cosmetic benefits of this spice, and it can indeed be made into a facial mask very easily. Mix two tablespoons of honey with one tablespoon of paprika, apply to the face and leave for 20 minutes before washing off. This apparently evens out skin tone and reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and in this age of cosmetic surgery it’s certainly a whole lot cheaper than a trip to a specialist, but whether it works is another matter! Through the centuries its properties in the cosmetic sense have been widely touted not just for the skin but for hair colour. Combining paprika with henna gives a natural red tint to hair.

Or better still make your own; it’s not as insane or as difficult as you may think. Any red chilli pepper will do. The first step is to grow the chillies, then when it’s time to dry them, make sure you do so in a non-humid environment, as humidity will just cause mould to grow on them.

Then, after a few weeks, simply grind the chillies up. Taste will vary according to the variety of pepper you use. Of course you can always buy the chilli peppers and start from there. And also use fresh paprika where possible - old paprika tastes terrible, like chalk apparently, so buy in small amounts and store in an airtight jar away from sunlight.

So can we call paprika the spice of youth? All these anti-ageing properties have made me quite hopeful, and I may be going along to the supermarket fairly soon to pick up a supply. But be warned - all these health benefits diminish somewhat in commercially manufactured varieties of paprika where the drying process eliminates some of the goodness. If possible buy home-grown and home-made paprika where the drying is done by hand, as it is still done in some villages in Hungary, including Kaloscsa.

So let’s face it, paprika is a pretty spectacular spice, packed with all manner of benefits. Never mind the search for the fountain of youth; we may already have in our supermarkets a potent spice that’ll help rejuvenate us, if all the stories are to be believed.

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But it’s not just us humans who can benefit from paprika; some zoos have been known to add it to the feed for flamingos in order to maintain their bright pink plumage.

Natalie Hughes

Opening Times 10am – 1am

Coffee Mates

A look at one of the most laid-back meeting places on the island – The Coffee Club.

What’s Chaweng’s big problem? Speaking socially, that is? Well it’s not lacking in resorts. And there are lots of places to go; there are restaurants in their dozens. Plenty of bars and clubs, too. And there’s a ton of things to do - cinemas, bowling, food markets plus the inevitable shopping, of course. But the problem is . . . they’re all spread out in one long line, along the five kilometre ribbon of Chaweng Beach Road, with no one part that’s central. Well, yes, one bit of all this is true; essentially Chaweng town is one long strip of beach road. But for more than a year now, the other problem has vanished. And it happened when the appropriately named Central Festival appeared, back in March 2014.

Right in the middle of the town, this light, open and airy mall brought a much-needed focal point to Chaweng. And, just as importantly, solved the horrific parking problem at the same time. Now there was a myriad of things to do and see, all in one place. And very sensibly, the entire place was laid-out in segments. The fashion and IT shops were all grouped together, as were the health and beauty shops, and the little eateries of the food court. And, fronting the main beach road, fringing the mall’s plaza-like entrance, were the bistros and coffee shops. And that included The Coffee Club.

The Coffee Club is no new thing. It emerged as one of Australia’s biggest coffeehouse names and then spread into New Zealand, too, where it continued to grow: today there are more than 340 cafés spread across Micronesia and Asia. But the big break came in 2007, when a working partnership was formed with Minor International, one of the region’s foremost hospitality and leisure groups, which also umbrellas such household names as Four Seasons, Marriott, and Samui’s own Anantara resorts. This gave The Coffee Club direct access to the Asian markets, including Thailand. And today there are 13 branches spread across the nation, including the first one on Samui, on Chaweng Beach Road, and the latest addition that’s located in Central Festival.

There are quite a few eateries, bistros and coffee houses here, so it’s interesting to stop for a moment and study them; how busy they are, where they’re located and the way they’ve been designed and laid out. As well as the obvious function of being socialising centres, they serve another role, too. They allow singles or couples to sit and street-watch in the midst of the hubbub - to see and be seen. And the most popular – the busiest – of these are the ones with a nice cool air-conditioned interior,

combined with a shady and inviting area outside.

The Coffee Club is the ground floor, and you can opt for street watching from the outside terrace, attractively designed with huge rectangular parasols and comfortable seats. Or you can head inside behind its wall of glass frontage instead.

Most people know that different coffee beans have differing qualities and tastes. The premium Arabica beans are better quality – the cheaper Robusta are a little harsher. But the downside of the quality Arabica is that they are actually quite rich and acidic. Coffee needs to be blended and balanced to be experienced at its best. However, the ‘Coffee Club Signature Blend’ goes even further. It creates a blend of the two, but using lower roasting temperatures and for a longer time than normal. This gives their basic espresso (the ‘shot’ that’s the basis for all the coffee-drink variants) a mellow lack of harshness which also maximises the flavour without becoming acidic.

Incidentally, the barista training program here is integrated with and overseen by the Douwe Egberts company. The fact that The Coffee Club sells 40 million cups of coffee every year worldwide speaks for itself!

But as soon as you enter, you’ll realise that this isn’t just a coffee shop that offers a few snacks

and pastries on the side. This is actually a restaurant that also offers world-class gourmet coffees. Plus teas, juices, frappés, milkshakes and soft drinks, too. Together, naturally, with a selection of wines, beer, cocktails and spirits.

And that means you can pitch it any way you want. You can meet up with chums over a wine or a beer to sit, chat, and decide what to do next. Or you can head there directly with food in mind.

The menu is well designed with clear descriptions and lots of photos of the dishes.

We’re in a hot country, so during the day people tend to snack, rather than tuck into a big spread.

Thus you’ll find plenty of sandwiches wraps, burgers and salads. There are all-day breakfasts of different sizes and formats, and there’s a variety of grills, nachos, and a quality selection of mains, including Petite Mignon Surf & Turf, Salmon Nicoise, and Balsamic Pork Chop, amongst others. Plus a pasta selection. And, of course, a wide selection of popular Thai dishes, too.

But I’ve saved the best part for last. Breakfasts tend to come with a series of similarly combined ingredients – bacon, eggs, sausage, toast, and so on. But not so with brunches. There’s a lot more

freedom with a brunch! The Coffee Shop already had a modest brunch menu. But now there’s a whole new set of appetising additions in place.

Such as, for example, the Angus Burger that’s made from imported New Zealand beef, with bacon, cheese and seasoned potato wedges. Or the Poached Eggs with Salmon Fritters. There’s a delicious, tangy, beetroot and cashew nut salad.

And even a touch of Thai fusion with the Spaghetti Spicy Crispy Fish and the Coconut & Caramelized Banana Pancakes. These, and the others on the brunch menu, are available all day.

And that’s just one more good reason to aim for The Coffee Club - not that you probably needed it! It’s as central as you can get, right in the heart of Chaweng. The coffee’s world class and the food is fab. It’s a great place to meet up with your mates. And I think that just about covers it – don’t you?

Rob De Wet For more information, telephone 0 7730 0563 (Chaweng Beach Road branch) or 0 7741 4617 (Central Festival branch).

An outstanding menu of International & Thai cuisine prepared by master chef Joseph Spiteri

Choeng Mon, 88/18 Moo 5, T. Bophut, Koh Samui Tel: 0 77243888 Email: info@baywaterresort.com www.baywaterresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com

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Weddings, Celebrations, Parties & Honeymoons 2014

River Prawn Tom Yum

Rock Lobster

Sunset Dining in Spectacular Surroundings

Sea Food Taco

Lamb Chop

Beef Lasagna

Phuket Lobster Thermidor

Carbonara Pizza

This epicurean dining nirvana serves up the finest catches from the sea so our guests can Enjoy breathtaking sunsets while discovering our culinary delights at The Terrace, one of Koh Samui’s best beachfront feast like kings. Pay homage to our specialty – the royal triumvirate of lobster, tiger prawns and dining destinations. oysters.

A holiday or a visit to Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui would not be complete without sampling the food at Indulge yourself with a journey of culinary discoveries at Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai The Terrace. Nestled on the beach, this majestic open-air restaurant affords diners a perfect view of the spectacular Beach Samui. The Terrace perfectly blends a selection of Thai classics with international dishes. sunset over Laem Yai Bay and the distant islands.

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Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui is the perfect destination for a dream island wedding, unforgettable honeymoon, anniversary getaway or private birthday party.

Exchange vows on Koh Samui’s most beautiful sunset beach as the sky turns to a thousand shades of brilliant colours.

Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui Phone +66 77 421 721 resort.samuilaemyai@moevenpick.com www.moevenpick-hotels.com/samui-laem-yai-beach

Sumptuous Sabienglae Affordability, great taste and Thai tradition are the secrets behind this ever-popular restaurant.

There’s always something magical about watching the sun go down while you're sitting on a terrace overlooking the sea. Even people who can do this every day find it’s a habit they never tire of. At The Wharf, you'll see people strolling along the beach road that fronts Fisherman’s Village and enjoying the dusk. And a good few of them stop by at Sabienglae for a leisurely drink. The terrace fronts the sea and you can look out to distant Koh Phan-Ngan while you watch dusk deepening into night.

There's an upper floor too, with even better views and plenty of space.

But people don’t just come to Sabienglae for a casual drink. It’s one of Samui’s favourite restaurants, and is so popular that there are now three branches. They are places that exude a laid-back feel. Seating’s comfortable and the waiting staff are all very professional and will attend to your every need. If you're not familiar with Thai food, then they can also help you make informed choices, and on top of that, just about every dish has been photographed, allowing you to easily choose items that will be sure to please.

Deep fried white snapper with fish sauce turns out to be many people’s favourite. “Especially for local people,” says restaurant manager Khun Winai, “but lots of holidaymakers enjoy it too.”

He pauses to say that most of the fish comes from the local areas and that the catch is guaranteed to be fresh. “We’re always up at the local fish market at Prai Yai, or Big Buddha – it’s just about five kilometres away – and we’re totally familiar with the individual stalls selling the fish, so we know what’s good.” In addition there are extra catches that arrive directly at the beach close to Sabienglae. After all, this is Fisherman’s Village, and despite it being a chic tourist spot, there are still people going out to fish every day. They sell directly to the

restaurant; these are live fish that are then placed in tanks, which you can see at the back of Sabienglae.

Another highly recommended dish is the squid in coconut milk with lemon grass. It’s a dish that’s more familiar to people who live on Samui, but many holidaymakers love it once they find out how it tastes. The squid is beautifully cooked and has a delightfully light yet highly satisfying flavour. If you like meat, then opt for the deep fried pork which is accompanied by small shrimp, and is topped with whole chillies and lettuce. The dish is easily adaptable according to how hot you like your food; for a fiery dish cut up the chillies, but if it’s mildness you're after, just remove them.

For a real treat order a seafood barbecue of deep fried lobster in tamarind sauce – it’s delicious and the sauce gives it a wonderfully exotic aroma. Most of the dishes on the menu represent authentic Thai cuisine, with simple presentation and a focus on traditional cooking. You'll also find a range of international dishes; there really is something for everyone when it comes to Sabienglae’s menu.

Portions are all on the large side, so Sabienglae’s definitely a place where you should arrive hungry. And however much you eat, the very reasonable prices will leave you pleasantly surprised. Even if it’s banquet time for you and your party, then the bill at the end won’t burn a hole in your pocket. There are plenty of wines to go with the food, and they're also very affordable. Favourites among diners are the Talamanca Sauvignon Blanc, from Chile, and the Hardy’s Chardonnay, from Australia.

great ease. The staff are expert at putting on events, and you'll often find that there are birthday parties or other celebrations being held.

Very often these take place on the upper floor, where there are two large private rooms. Both have karaoke but since they're upstairs and away from the main action, they don’t impinge on other diners.

Sabienglae is very easy to find. You can’t miss it as you walk along the beach road at Fisherman’s Village as you head westwards. And if you're driving along the ring-road, you just need to turn into The Wharf, about 500 metres from the Bophut traffic lights as you head towards Maenam. There’s plenty of parking, by the way.

Sabienglae’s open from 11:00 am until 11:00 pm, every day. The other two branches are south of Bophut. In Chaweng, you'll find a branch just south of Tesco-Lotus. Take the first turning to your right immediately after the traffic lights. In Lamai, you'll find the original Sabienglae, which is just past Hinta Hinyai on the ring-road heading toward Nathon.

Many people return over and over again to one or other of Sabienglae’s three branches as they all offer wonderful tastes while remaining so affordable. Whether you come as a couple, a family or as a group of friends, you'll enjoy the relaxed atmosphere, too.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7743 0095.

Sabienglae caters not only for couples and friends, but whole parties, too. It’s a 300-seat restaurant and can handle large groups with

www.siamwininganddining.com 11

The Pig that Travelled The curious tale of kurobuta.

The story’s so bizarre that it couldn’t possibly have been concocted. It starts off in the English Civil War that played out in the 17th century.

Oliver Cromwell, an ambitious squire with his eye on unseating the King of England, was stationed outside London, when he and his troops came across a rare breed of black pig, later to be called the Black Berkshire. They’d never seen it before and soon discovered how good it tasted. It was much better than other pork they’d tried. It seems as though, despite all the fighting, they were early-day foodies and in need of something more tempting in their diet.

Whatever, the striking breed of black pig got noticed, and its climb to fame started back then.

The pig’s mentioned in the poetry of the times, by the way, in a list of various tasty foods: May thy Black Pigs lye warm in little Stye, And have no Thought to grieve them till they die.

We’ll come back to that verse later on – it turns out to be surprisingly relevant – but the Black Berkshire remained rather special once it caught the attention of the new rulers of the land. Fast

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forward some years and to a completely different part of the world - Japan. Britain had long been trying to set up trading posts further and further from home. It had been a difficult business. At first, it took two years for each journey to present day Malaysia, as all ships had to go via Portugal and around Africa.

Eventually they got as far as Japan and the first Europeans started living there. Japan began opening up to the West, and in the 19th century, diplomats went there on a visit and took with them some gifts. Perhaps today those gifts might strike people as odd; amongst them was a stock of Black Berkshire pigs. The Japanese received them and began breeding them for the quality of their meat. They gave the pork a very simple name - kurobuta. Kuro is Japanese for black and buta means pig. Its full name is Kagoshima Kurobuta, as the pig is reared in Kagoshima Prefecture, right in the south of Japan, and historically a gateway to Japan at various times in history.

Kurobuta consists of intensely tasty meat and fat. Once you start eating it, you'll realize how

succulent and tender it is; it tends to leave most other varieties far, far behind. There’s nothing dry or chewy about it, especially as so much care has gone into maintaining the taste, which has a unique sweet flavour to it. It hasn’t been factory-farmed on a mass-production basis. The flavour is due to the extensive levels of fat, which is marbled and is a result of the pig’s diet.

With pigs, the food they eat directly contributes to the taste, so it’s crucially important that their food is the best and the tastiest possible. The fat that’s deposited in the pork is all part of the appeal of kurobuta. Perhaps it’s all the more popular as much pork these days is being marketed for its very lack of fat in an attempt to appeal to the health conscious. Kurobuta is synonymous with both quality and taste and commands higher prices than its competitors – and people are happy to pay the difference.

It’s the same story as with wagyu beef; it’s prized and the name is synonymous with quality. But the similarities don’t stop there.

With both wagyu and kurobuta, a lot of care goes into looking after the animals themselves.

It starts with the way they're bred, and then

there’s the fact that they're carefully brought up – wagyu is said to be even tastier because the animals have been massaged with saké.

What the pigs actually eat varies but their diet can include nuts, fruit and milk. They aren’t pumped full of chemicals either and are free-range; the idea is that during their lives they aren’t stressed.

Remember the second line of that poem? ‘And have no Thought to grieve them till they die.’

This seems to indicate that there’s a long tradition in the way the Black Berkshire has been treated. These pigs spend their entire lives roaming around outside and this alone gives the meat a special flavour. The back fat is thicker because of this; the pigs winter outside too and develop more fat quite naturally. Their lives are relaxed, laid-back and indolent, poles apart from the grievous existence of factory animals.

Because it’s already so tasty, kurobuta requires less in the way of spices or seasoning while cooking, and for some purists the only real way to enjoy it is to eat it very simply, on its own

with maybe just salt and pepper. For the Japanese, kurobuta is often served as a breaded pork cutlet which is deep-fried. It doesn’t sound like much of a dish but is an incredibly tasty way to prepare pork. The dish, known as tonkatsu, is one of Japan’s favourite ways of eating pork of any kind, and using kurobuta makes it even better.

But if you're not planning on going to Japan there’s no need to worry. Just Google ‘kurobuta recipes’ and you'll see there are dozens of ways to prepare this kind of pork.

With its subcutaneous marbling, kurobuta provides diners with unexpectedly great flavour.

If you’ve never had pork like this, you'll find it all the more delicate. Be warned though, that once you’ve tried it, you may not want to go back to your old ways of eating pork; just like those tough soldiers 300 years ago, you may find yourself totally seduced by the Black Berkshire.

Dimitri Waring

SIP, SAVOUR, LOUNGE, AND LINGER Stay all day and move your mood, exploring our range of indoor and outdoor settings, right on Samui’s beach with panoramic view of the coastline. Enjoy a casual lunch in the shade, experiencing our eclectic menu of international cuisine or lounge away the aſternoon on a sunken daybed in the sand, steps away from the beach.

For evenings, COAST transforms into one of Samui's most attractive dining experiences, showcasing grills and seafood with great beach chill music to help you relax.

A variety of dining zones make it either the ideal venue for a memorable evening out with family and friends or an equally cool place to celebrate that special occasion party.

The focus at COAST is always on views of the beach and your effortless glide through the day.

Open Hours: 12:00 – 23:00 hrs.

www.centarahotelsresorts.com/csbr E: coast@chr.co.th T: +66 (0) 77 230500

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13

Going Native Joining the locals at Chai’s Cuisine.

It’s interesting. You’re here because of the sunshine and the lovely people, the affordability and the food. Thai cuisine is ranked the third most popular in the world. And yet a Samui survey, in 2012, discovered that 22% of all visitors didn’t really like Thai food. To which I’ll respond – they probably have never actually eaten any! It’s well-known that Thai restaurants around the world heavily adapt their menu according to local tastes, and often substitute local ingredients for the real thing. On the other hand, the real, authentic, little local hole-in-the-wall Thai eateries found over here are a bit of a gamble, too – the real, hot and spicy local dishes might just cause you to run out screaming. So what can you do?

To dodge the question for just a moment, let me go back to my first few months in Thailand. I was living in Bangkok, miles away from anything trendy or touristy. Up on the main road was a restaurant. I didn’t speak Thai and nobody spoke any English. The menu was all in Thai. I had no idea what was on offer. So all I ever ate, and knew how to order, was fried rice with chicken. I ate this for months. I was a stranger in a strange land. But, seeing everything today with a wider perspective, I imagine this is what a great many visitors to Thailand must feel like. So they stay in their resort to eat, sample the Thai food there, and only eat outside if they see somewhere that looks bright and reassuring. And that’s a shame.

So here’s an easy checklist so that you can get to grips with real Thai food – tick them off as you go. The restaurant looks clean, never mind the fact that it has naked strip lights and plastic picnic tables. You need someone there who can speak and understand English. You not only need the menu in English as well as Thai, but you really need photos of the dishes as well.

The food is authentic, properly cooked and won’t set your mouth on fire. And the toilet is . . . designed for humans (to put it politely). I really wish I had found one like this in the outer

wilderness of Bangkok all those years ago. So – to cut to the chase and get right to the point – there’s a lovely Thai restaurant that’s even better than I’ve suggested, and it’s right on the edge of Lamai, just off the ring-road.

The name is ‘Chai’s Cuisine’. It’s very close to the landmark of the IT Complex, right on the corner of the side-road that leads to the lovely Tamarind Springs Spa and SCL International School. It’s easy to park your motorbike or car on the road outside. And it’s owned, managed and run by the same man who also does the cooking, Khun Chai. He’s interesting. He speaks very good English, and many years ago began a career as a police officer in the mainland city of Nakorn Sri Thammarat. “It took me a while to realise I didn’t like the job,” he told me. “How can I explain . . . all the time I was going to car crashes, fights, robberies. All I was seeing was anger and suffering. I was an important man in the community, yes. But I was unhappy. I loved gardening. I loved cooking. But these directions meant a huge change of lifestyle for me. What could I do?”

The answer to that took quite a few years to emerge. Khun Chai grew up in a rural community and from an early age was helping his mother in the kitchen. He liked it. Over the next few years, he moved between Bangkok and Phuket, working in resorts and restaurants, and eventually came to Samui where he’s finally able to combine both his loves together in one place.

For, as you’ll discover, Chai’s Cuisine has been lovingly designed and landscaped. It’s a very pretty little place – lofty, clean, airy and bright – to eat some really authentic Thai food.

“I’m in love with all sorts of cooking,” continued Khun Chai, “and I always try to learn from my foreign friends, encouraging them to come into my kitchen and show me how the dishes are prepared and made. But, you know, sometimes I have to help some of my guests to appreciate Thai food! I had one man not so long ago who

told me this wasn’t the real Thai cuisine. So I asked him if it was just different to what he was used to, or if he really didn’t like it. He said it was different, but he liked it. So we went into the kitchen and I showed him how it was made, and explained the ingredients, herbs and spices, and that it was easy to reduce the spiciness, if necessary, but still keep all the flavour. He liked it all enough to come back again three or four times more!”

But this is how Khun Chai operates. Take the very popular massaman curry, for instance. Khun Chai takes about 20 minutes making this dish (unlike some other places), heating and reducing the oil and coconut milk over and over again until it’s just the right degree of creaminess. It’s quick and easy to make it thin and watery, but it takes time to get it creamy and smooth, the way it should be.

If you’re familiar with Thai food then there are no real surprises on the menu; it’s sectioned into the expected soups, salads, noodle dishes, curries, sweet and sours and stir-fries But a couple of things stand out, one being the inclusion of duck; this is often hard to find in your average Thai eatery. The other thing is the seafood. He buys a limited amount every day fresh from the fishing boats. And that means you don’t get leftovers that have been lying around in the freezer. It also means that although fish like snapper is usually available, as it depends on the day’s catch, now and again there might not be crab or tiger prawns available. One the other hand, once you’ve eaten there, you’ll most certainly go back again, so you can ring Khun Chai and reserve your table, plus the seafood of your choice, before you go!

Rob De Wet For further information, telephone Khun Chai on 0 805 329 005.

Take a bread cake and bakery Tel: 088 502 3112

Location: Samui Ring Road (nearly opposite Big C)

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Experience the very best in authentic Thai cuisine at Chef Chom’s Thai Restaurant at The Tongsai Bay Chef Chom's serves truly authentic Thai cuisine with an emphasis on local southern Thai cuisine. Wherever possible, ingredients are sourced locally and dishes are prepared from scratch.

This real Thai taste is the pride of the kitchen, and dishes are not 'watered down', the taste of Chef Chom's food is just the way Thais would have it.

Chef Chom’s is open daily for dinner from 7pm to 10pm. Tel: +66 (0) 77 245-480 www.tongsaibay.co.th

www.siamwininganddining.com

15

Food Glorious Food How our preoccupation with eating has found its way into song over the years.

“If music be the food of love, play on ...”

William Shakespeare (1564-1616).

Twelfth Night, Act 1 Scene 1.

There are a thousand songs that mention food but, digging deeper, there are not that many that are actually about it. For instance, ‘Strawberry Fields’ has nothing to do with fruit, and ‘Life on Mars’ is not about a chocolate bar. And when Robert Plant requests that you ‘Squeeze My Lemon’, what’s on his mind is definitely not a salad dressing! There are lots of passing references to food and drink in songs through the ages, and some are decidedly jolly. But it’s usually when people don’t have any that they sing about it. And, here, we’ll be taking a look at both – not only the laments, but some of the more curious lyrics and titles, too.

Oddly enough, one of the most popular songs of all time never saw the light of day in its original form. In 1962, Paul McCartney penned a song which he titled ‘Scrambled Egg’. In 1963, the group was signed by the Parlophone label, whose executives frowned on this title. When this song was released, two years later, it was called, simply, ‘Yesterday’. But enough of this frippery. Let’s delve into some real misery!

Clutching back at our story title, the orphaned Oliver Twist finds himself being starved and abused in the workhouse. But the bouncy lines from the chorus of the musical don’t reveal the suffering beneath. “Food, glorious, food, hot sausage and mustard!” is followed by, in a minor key, “Every day we say our prayer; will they change the bill of fare? All we ever get is gru...el!” And it can’t have been much fun, having only a cup or two of potato-flavoured water to ‘eat’ every day.

And, still on the stimulating theme of despair and depression, the Wall Street Crash of 1929 gave rise to a whole new musical genre – The Blues. All of America suffered, but none more so that the already downtrodden African Americans of the Deep South. ‘Ragged Hungry Blues’ by Aunt Molly Jackson isn’t well-known, but says it all. Champion Jack Dupree should be marginally more familiar to you, and his growling laments – voice and stomach? – take a similar shape to young Oliver’s. He wrote ‘She Makes me Cabbage’ in 1934 – once again, an ode to a diet of watery soup.

And hand-in-hand with all of this went the urge to drown it all out. John Lee Hooker mused

over the attractions of ‘One Scotch, One Bourbon, One Beer’, and several other blues singers were later to echo Amos Milburn’s original plea, “Let me go home whiskey, let me walk out that door.”

But, if you haven’t got the money for food or liquor, at least it costs nothing to make love (I hope!). And there’s probably more food-symbolism in some of the more infamous blues songs than anywhere else. Bessie Smith’s songs veered from one extreme to the other, soulfully mourning her poor condition one moment, and then being roguishly sleazy the next. Written in 1931, one thinly-coded gem of hers is entitled ‘I Need a Little Sugar’, and sports the chorus, “I need a little sugar, in my bowl, I need a little hot dog, between my rolls. Git your finger movin, I need sugar in my bowl.” Hmm. Quick, change the subject – and an end to all this misery! There’s enough joy and humour in the world, especially when there’s not a Depression or a Financial Meltdown or a Global Credit Squeeze to bring us down. In 1991, the obscure American new-psychedelic band The Flaming Lips bought out the stirringly-nonsensical ‘She Don't Use Jelly’ – a

ditty that celebrated a woman who maliciously spread her guests’ toast with Vaseline, instead of butter. And that master of the obscure, Captain Beefheart, really scored some foodie points with his 1982 album, ‘Ice-Cream for Crow’. Song titles included, ‘Peaches En Regalia’, ‘Shaky Pudding’, and the suspiciously normal-sounding ‘Turkish Coffee’. And this from a man who once said, “There are 40 people in this world, and five of them are hamburgers.” Whatever he’d been chewing – I do not want any.

Have people always been this silly? Answer – yes. In 1968, The Beatles brought out their ‘White Album’, on which appeared the cheery ‘Savoy Truffle’. And a slice of it went, “Crème tangerine and Montélimar/A ginger sling with a pineapple heart/A coffee dessert – yes you know it’s good news/But you’ll have to have them all pulled out/After the Savoy truffle!” That would be teeth, I assume?

just let me quote ... they are, “an eco-veggie-conscious-pop band, writing and performing humorous and incisive songs about responsible food choices and the environment.”

Really! That’s what they are – it says so. And their press-release goes on to say that, “Vegans, vegetarians, locavores, flexitarians, and environmentalists are grooving to the sustainable, climate-friendly, carbon-neutral, non-toxic, low-impact, locally-sourced, socially-conscious, cruelty-free songs of Green Beings.” Not so surprisingly, their repertoire includes such food for thought as, ‘Cheese Shop of Horrors’, ‘Lips That Touch Liver’, ‘Meat Doesn’t Grow On Trees’, and ‘Mad Cow Farm (with a mad cow here and a mad cow there)’. I really like the sound of that last one.

Rob De Wet

But now let’s get really serious. We’ve had songs about food, and titles about food – but let me unveil for you a group, a band, that’s about ... food. Nay – I don’t do them justice. They’re a much broader thing than merely this. Their name is Green Beings, and they’re all about ...

Barracuda

Discover authentic

Indian Cuisine

The restaurant where every evening becomes a memorable occasion.

For reservations please contact: Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa, Koh Samui Tel: +66 (0) 77 428 300 Email: bophutsamui@anantara.com Skype: bophutsamui 16

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Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng Center Chaweng Beach Road, opp. Chaweng Buri Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng South at Chaweng Cove Resort Noori India - Central Festival at Chaweng Beach Road For reservations (English) - 0 867 407 873 or 0 7741 3108 For reservations (Thai) - 0 813 960 283 E-mail: nooriindia_samui@yahoo.com www.nooriindiasamui.com

Samui 2012 WINNER

2013 WINNER

2014 WINNER

Krua Shines

When it comes to dining at Fisherman’s Village, Krua Bophut stands out from the crowd!

Twenty years ago, there was nothing much at Fisherman’s Village. Even the fishermen were old and tired and grey – if you could find any.

There certainly weren’t many fishing boats. But there were lots of shaggy old dogs sleeping in the street! All the buildings were wooden, rickety, and there were only a few. There was a small ferry that staggered in and out again, once a day. And a little Thai café that kept the backpackers happy. The ‘village’ ran for about 20 houses away from the pier – only ten in the other direction. It may have been a ‘village’ 50 years before, but not any more. The only time it saw a sign of life was once a month on the eve of the full moon, when everyone under 30 went crazy to go to Koh Pha-ngan for the party and the pier filled with end-to-end speedboats as night fell. Then things changed.

I mention this to give you a context, because things really do change. Back then, Chaweng Beach Road was only maybe 30% full on the beach side, and you could just walk to the sea more or less everywhere. There weren’t any Harleys, superstores, 5-star hotels or fast food joints. But that was then. And so it’s now come about that, today, Fisherman’s Village is one of the liveliest place on the island. It seems that

every single visitor to Samui goes to Fisherman’s Village at least once. Probably more. It’s the one place on the island that’s busy every night of the week, and utterly jam-packed on Friday, when it hosts one of the best ‘walking streets’ anywhere.

speaking English and a restaurant with the ambiance of a canteen. Or a fab burger or ribs, but with 200 megawatt lighting that’s straight from Las Vegas. Or then again, some tip-top gourmet cuisine that will max out your card.

“Aye,” as Shakespeare said, “and there’s the rub.” Meaning that, when it comes to food, you can’t go 30 metres in Fisherman’s Village without being tugged at by 10 different cuisines, four different prices ranges, pub-grub or fine-dining, street nibbles or smart-style, 5-star or two. Today the village is maybe four-or five-hundred meters long, running all the way along the seafront. And that means that only 20% of the walkers ever get to the end without eating something on the way. Therefore the considered advice from Samui Wining & Dining is . . . don’t!

Or . . . you can elect to dine at a restaurant that’s a part of the nearby 5-star Bo Phut Resort and Spa. It’s a Thai restaurant staffed by 5-star hotel workers who all speak excellent English and have been perfectly trained. The décor is individually retro 60s-quaint, part Thai, part cosmo, with lots of dark mellowed timber and a tangle of nostalgia – an old wind-up phonograph; pressed-tin toys from before The War. Faded posters from the ’30s. Old clocks and collectables. It’s a little nook of nostalgia, pleasantly air-conditioned, but also with a set of tables outside on the beach (making a booking for one of these is imperative).

But here there’s another big difference. In the average small Thai eatery, you’ll find perhaps 30 more-or-less-universal items on the menu. Take, for example, the popular fried pork with garlic and pepper sauce. Here it’s offered with garlic and pepper sauce, or with tamarind sauce, or deep-fried with turmeric, or as one of several other options. You can even ask for any one of these to be served as a stir-fry, if you wish.

Similarly, the fishy mainstay of a small restaurant is usually red snapper. But at Krua Bophut, you can order red or white snapper, sea bass, shark, tuna, or barracuda, depending on what’s in season, and then have it served in any one of six or seven different ways, all of which are itemised on the menu for you to choose from.

Not only does it have a unique and enigmatic ambiance, but the food is excellent, too. Firstly, the result of walking into the cool, mellow, nostalgic ambiance of this restaurant after having your senses jangled by all the neon razzmatazz of the street outside is an instant sense of blessed relief. And, yes, there’s a full

The menu layout covers appetisers, soups and salads, then is sectioned into chicken, beef, duck, and seafood dishes. The portions are more generous than you’ll find in normal Thai restaurants, and have steamed rice included in the cost, and not as an extra like you’ll usually find elsewhere. And, thoughtfully, all dishes are

Don’t nibble as you go! Don’t stop for food half way along. Because . . . the finest eats are at the end. But it all depends on what you want. You can go 5-star at one of the resorts that fringe the village. Or you can go for Thai food. Or you can be swayed by a swanky steak house. But here’s the thing. On the one hand you’ll quite possibly get a Thai menu with very few of the waiters

menu of Thai food, and all of it made with prime ingredients – no tough chicken or chewy pork.

‘chilli-coded’ to easily identify the spicy ones.

However, if you’re a bit overawed with all this choice, then there’s the hugely-popular 6-dish set-menu, Set A being moderately spicy and Set B made up of dishes that are more gentle.

Finally, the wines. Keep it in mind that this is the signature restaurant of a nearby 5-star resort.

Therefore, there could quite happily be more than 100 quality labels on offer. But there are three big areas where Krua Bophut scores points – the ambiance, the quality and the service, and the pricing. Thus the New World wines on offer here have been handpicked to match the Thai dishes on the menu, and are available by the glass or the bottle, all at a surprising reasonable cost. And so, happy, full, and satisfied, you’ll come to understand why, in amongst all the other bright lights all around, Krua Bophut really does shine out from the crowd!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7743 0030. www.kruabophut.com

Sabeinglae Restaurant

Sabienglae restaurants offer traditional fresh seafood and cuisine in an authentic southern Thai style.

Come and enjoy our unique dishes, many of which you won’t find elsewhere on the island, in a relaxing atmosphere. An experience to truly complete your holiday.

The Wharf Samui, Fishermans’s Village For reservation please call 077 430 094-5

Hin Ta Hin Yai, Samui Ring Road For reservation please call 077 233 082-3

Wimaan Buri Resort, Chaweng Ring Road For reservation please call 077 962 333

www.siamwininganddining.com 17

The Wine Page Crazy for Chianti.

There are a few wines that, through culture and ubiquity, have managed to implant themselves in the vocabulary of novices and wine buffs alike. And I suspect that most people, who drink wine, have heard of Rioja in northern Spain, Champagne in northern France and Chianti in northern Italy. The celebrated Chianti wine is produced in the wild Tuscan hills between Florence and Siena. And Chianti is the epitome of the classic, aromatic Italian grape, Sangiovese, which is Latin for the "blood of Jove." I happen to like this evocative translation, as it sums up the deep, lusty and dark (almost viscose) blood-red qualities of good Chianti so well. If Count Dracula drank wine, which I expect he did, he would, no doubt, have had a few dusty bottles of Chianti stored in his cellar, next to the torture equipment.

Wines made from Sangiovese can be intriguingly complex, and can be so different from one another. This is a grape that is also planted in the prominent vineyards of California, Australia and South America. Some wines are texturally light, with an appealing cherry aroma. Others are plummy, with deep lingering characteristics, akin to red Bordeaux. If there is one 18 www.siamwininganddining.com

commonality, it is perhaps that the finest wines contain a dry, uplifting acidity. And because of their bitterness, pair sensationally well with food. Of course, a classic tomato-based Italian pasta dish is the obvious partner for Italian Chianti. And the two are a perfect match, but maybe a little too perfect, to the point of being clichéd. It is worth remembering Chianti pairs deliciously well with a variety of other foods, which I will get to later.

Traditionally, Chianti bottles were sheathed in a straw flask, known as a fiasco, which helped protect them on their long journey from vineyard to table. Inadvertently, this became the wine's signature to a generation of 1980s casual drinkers (myself included). Unfortunately, the contents inside were far from the best examples of Chianti. I can remember some truly dreadful wines being served in second-rate pseudo-Italian restaurants in suburban England.

Thankfully these days, Chianti has shed its straw basket, and its gimmicky rustic image, and become a much more serious wine. After decades of detailed work from Tuscan producers such as Paolo De Marchi, Alberto

Antonini and Giovanni Manetti, it has been propelled into the fine-wine sphere. And modern Chianti is a far cry from the fluorescent-reddish-hued, overly acidic, and slightly green-tasting wines, found in vintages past. Today’s Chianti wines are light in texture, with a clear, ruby sheen. Chianti Riservas display notes of mature dark berries, cherries and violets, and sometimes a savoury earthiness.

With age, this often evolves into cedar and raisin tones, not unlike aged red Bordeaux.

With food, the wines are transformed, as their natural acidity and dryness marry well with oily dishes. I highly recommend you try Chianti with roasted meats. Indeed, it’s the inspired choice for a traditional British style roast dinner. It marries particularly well with duck and chicken, or vegetable dishes (like ratatouille), or any robust cheeses. And despite the cliché, Chianti is practically mandatory if “going Italian.” What better wine accompaniment to grace a dinner table packed with woody, crispy and meaty pizzas, antipasto with fresh olives, basil and garlic, bruschetta, and of course, spaghetti, laced with olive oil and sprinkled with generous spoonfuls of Parmesan cheese? And for the

more northern European (or southern hemisphere), masculine palate, grab an aged grain-feed beefsteak, season well, char-grill and enjoy the smoky, fatty flavours with a bottle, or two, of Chianti Classico.

There are four major categories of Chianti: Chianti, Chianti Superiore, Chianti Classico, and Chianti Classico Riserva. They all have slightly different guidelines for geographic designation, aging requirements, alcohol content, and grape blending. An easy way to tell if a bottle is a Chianti Classico or Chianti Classico Riserva, is by looking for the black rooster symbol on the bottle. Among my favourite producers are Castello di Bossi, Carpineto, Poggiotondo, Tenuta Valdipiatta, Selvapiana and Frescobaldi.

Many of these wines will cellar for 10 years or more, and are the equal to well-known Clarets, costing treble the price.

Here in Thailand, the choice of Chianti is not huge, although luckily, the amount on offer is definitely growing. The way to find the best Chianti here, presuming you can afford the higher price ticket, is to go for the Classico or Classico Riserva. But if not, the more generic

“supermarket” type bottles are absolutely fine for everyday drinking, and will not break the bank. It’s hard to go wrong, most Chianti offers good value for money, gorgeously complex deep red wine, brimming with Italian flair and mystique. I read recently that the Chianti region is producing 35 million bottles a year. That is impressively high volume, and goes some way to explain the relatively reasonable price-tag-to-quality-ratio. Something not easily found, especially in top wine segments, such as Californian and French, for instance.

All the more reason (as if I needed it!) to pour myself a big glass of fine Chianti, and let my furtive, alcohol-stimulated imagination transport me to beautiful Tuscany. Think rolling hillsides, warm sunshine, tall Cypress trees, a gentle breeze and a sumptuous, alfresco meal with copious amounts of exquisite full-bodied Chianti, and a leggy fine-bodied Mediterranean femme fatale. Perfetto!

Peter James

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort presents a wide range of restaurants and bars featuring a variety of cuisines to suit all tastes.

Premium cocktails and selected wines are also available in each outlet.

STAR

A stunning rooftop bar where you can sip our signature cocktails and enjoy some snacks while watching the sunset or gazing at the stars above.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs.

The Height

Sun Deck

Wine and Cigar Lounge

Oering an extensive menu of delightful Thai cuisine, the restaurant has both air-conditioned and open air seating options, all with stunning views of the surrounding sea.

Open: 17.00-22.30hrs.

Exclusive dining on the deck with breathtaking views.Enjoy International delights in a romantic setting with your loved one. Please reserve in advance.

Refreshments, cocktails and snacks with a selection of premium wines and cigars to enjoy the breathtaking view.

Open:18.00-22.30hrs.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort 208/66 Moo4, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84310 Thailand Tel: (+66) 077 960 555 Fax: (+66) 077 960 055 www. Silavadeeresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com

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Rice Barge &

Terrace

Fine Beachside Dining at the Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine Daily A La Carte and Thai Set Dinner No visit to Samui is complete until you have dined at the Rice Barge & Terrace

The Barge Western Cuisine & Seafood Every Monday Cowboy Steak Buffet Every Wednesday Hawaiian Seafood Buffet Rice Barge & Terrace Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North

It’s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & Spa Tuesday Night- Siam Kingdom Thai Night. We invite you to experience a variety of traditional Thai dishes.

Price THB 850 per person.

Thursday Night - East Meets West. Enjoy our chef’s special buffet creations. Price THB 950 net per person. Children 6-12 years old half price. Entertainment: Polynesian Show & Mariposa Duo. Thai Cooking Class Learn how to cook 3 authentic Thai dishes with our Thai Chef. Price THB 1,500 per person Inclusive of chef hat, apron, certificate and recipe.

Fruit Carving Class Price THB 1,500 per person. Inclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate.

Daily Happy Hour Beverages Special offer 50% off (Except wine, Corona beer, all spirits by the bottle) Pool Bar 1.00 pm - 2.00 pm & 4.00 pm - 5.00 pm. Prasuthon Restaurant 6.00 pm - 7.00 pm.

Lobby Bar 7.00 pm - 8.00 pm & 10.00 pm - 11.00 pm.

Romantic Private Dining Dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress.

Thai menu THB 5,000 per couple.

International menu THB 6,000 per couple.

Advance reservation required

For further information please telephone 0 7742 9400 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com 20

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