March 2014

Romantic Dining

SAMUI

at Chaweng Beach

www.samuiholiday.com

1st _ 31th MARCH 2014

FREE COPY

Sareeraya Villas & Suites Call + 66 (0) 77 914 333 www.sareeraya.com

And the Year Marches On!

Where has the time gone? Seems it was only just New Year. So what does March have in store?

Nothing! Well, not actually, but there’s no ‘big event’ as such, which means that visitors can sit back, relax, and enjoy island life. The weather is usually great in March too. And part of relaxing and enjoying island life is sampling the lovely cuisine on offer, both Thai and International. And of course, as always, Samui Wining & Dining brings you all the news on where to go and what to try when it comes to the island’s dining scene.

As usual, we have our regular columns, such as ‘Catch of the Day’, and this month we focus on that spiky creature that is the bane of any surfer’s life – the sea urchin. In ‘Know Your Onions’ we cover the sweet potato. Our in-house wine connoisseur gives us the low-down on Chardonnay, and in this month’s ‘Kitchen King’ we introduce you to Bernhard Koll, Executive Chef at the newly renovated Anantara Bophut.

Ever wondered what to wear to dinner on the island? Read on to find out the do’s and don’ts of dining island-style. You’ll also find plenty to read covering other local establishments, and find out a little about Thai fast food.

Happy reading folks! And enjoy the down time, as next month the craziness of Songkran will be upon us!

SAMUI

Romantic Dining

SAMUI

at Chaweng Beach

www.samuiholiday.com

1st

FREE COPY

_

31th MARCH 2014

Sareeraya Villas & Suites Call + 66 (0) 77 914 333 www.sareeraya.com

And the Year Marches On!

Where has the time gone? Seems it was only just New Year. So what does March have in store?

Nothing! Well, not actually, but there’s no ‘big event’ as such, which means that visitors can sit back, relax, and enjoy island life. The weather is usually great in March too. And part of relaxing and enjoying island life is sampling the lovely cuisine on offer, both Thai and International. And of course, as always, Samui Wining & Dining brings you all the news on where to go and what to try when it comes to the island’s dining scene.

As usual, we have our regular columns, such as ‘Catch of the Day’, and this month we focus on that spiky creature that is the bane of any surfer’s life – the sea urchin. In ‘Know Your Onions’ we cover the sweet potato. Our in-house wine connoisseur gives us the low-down on Chardonnay, and in this month’s ‘Kitchen King’ we introduce you to Bernhard Koll, Executive Chef at the newly renovated Anantara Bophut.

Ever wondered what to wear to dinner on the island? Read on to find out the do’s and don’ts of dining island-style. You’ll also find plenty to read covering other local establishments, and find out a little about Thai fast food.

Happy reading folks! And enjoy the down time, as next month the craziness of Songkran will be upon us!

Graeme Malley Editor

Preeda Tuajob (Puy) Graphic Designer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon (Don) Photographer

Seksak Kerdkanno (Klauy) Webmaster

Rob De Wet Feature Writer

Rosanne Turner Feature Writer

Colleen Setchell Feature Writer

Peter James Feature Writer

Nipawan Chuaysagul (Ning) Sales & Marketing Director ning@siammap.com Tel: 0 898 783 891

Henrik Bjørk Managing Director

Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6, Samui Ring Road, Moo 3, Bo Phut, Samui, 84320 Thailand Tel: (66) 0 7742 2201 Fax: (66) 0 7741 3523 email: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission from Siam Map Company Ltd. Whilst every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. c Siam Map Company Ltd. 2014

Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways.

Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com

Please recycle or pass on to a friend.

The restaurant where every evening becomes a memorable occasion.

For reservations please contact: Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa, Koh Samui Tel: +66 (0) 77 428 300 Email: bophutsamui@anantara.com Skype: bophutsamui 2 www.siamwininganddining.com

The spines have been designed by nature to protect these shellfish from being eaten. But man, unlike predatory sea creatures, has tools to overcome these prickly obstacles. If you’re a seafood lover, it’s well worth the effort to break your way through.

Sea urchins, sometimes called sea hedgehogs, are small, spiny, globular animals. The shell of the urchin is round and spiny, typically from three to ten centimetres across.

Common colours include black and dull shades of green, olive, brown, purple, blue, and red. These pin-cushions of the sea move slowly, feeding mostly on algae and kelp.

Once the creature dies, the spines slowly fall off, and the beautiful patterned shells are revealed. Alive and anchored to rocks or lying on the seabed, they’re the bane of surfers everywhere!

Actually, it’s not the roe, but the gonads of both male and female sea urchins (yes, really) that are eaten, mistakenly referred to as sea urchin roe or corals, and are a culinary delicacy in many parts of the world. In cuisines around the Mediterranean, it’s often eaten raw, with lemon, and known as ‘ricci’ on Italian menus where it’s sometimes used in pasta sauces. It can also flavour omelettes, scrambled eggs, fish soup, mayonnaise, béchamel sauce for tartlets, soufflés, or Hollandaise sauce. In Chilean cuisine, it’s served raw with lemon, onions, and olive oil.

In Japan, sea urchin is known as ‘uni’, and it can retail for as much as $450 per kilo. It’s served raw as sashimi or in sushi, with soy sauce and wasabi. Japan imports large quantities from various places, including the United States and South Korea, and Japan’s demand for sea urchin has raised concerns about overfishing.

Native Americans in California are also known to eat sea urchins, and though they are commonly eaten by the Alaska native population around Kodiak Island, it’s more commonly exported, mostly to, you guessed it, Japan. In the West Indies, slate pencil urchins are sought after, and in New Zealand, urchins are known as kina in Maori, a delicacy traditionally eaten raw.

Due to the part of the anatomy eaten, sea urchin has been considered an aphrodisiac in Japan for thousands of years, and only rose (excuse the pun) to popularity in North America in the late 20th century. The gonads of this hermaphrodite sea creature are scooped out of the urchin’s spiny shell in five custard-like, golden sections.

From a nutritional standpoint, sea urchin is one of the most prominent culinary sources of anandamide, a cannabinoid neurotransmitter, sometimes known at the brain’s natural marijuana. Does this mean that eating urchin will produce a similar effect to ingesting marijuana? Probably not, but it’s

possible that it activates the dopamine system in the brain, which is the section that anticipates rewards, in other words, desire. But this isn’t its only nutritional benefit – it’s also rich with protein, fibre, and vitamin C, and is a healthy source of vitamins A and E, iodine and calcium. And at only 125 calories per 100 grams, (about two to three pieces of sushi), it makes a nice healthy snack.

So where does the process of enjoying your ‘uni’ start? Well, they’re one of the few remaining ocean delicacies that must be harvested from the wild and can’t, for most purposes, be frozen. Urchins are hand-cut by professional scuba divers, or, in some parts of Korea, by women who train from childhood to hold their breath and dive in cold water. These ‘haenyo’, or sea women, dive as deep as 15 metres with no gear other than a mask and a knife, gathering sea urchins, abalone, seaweed and conch. Apparently, women are better able to tolerate cold water, where urchins are usually found, and it’s become a traditional way for them to support their families by selling their catch.

The reason for the high price is the labour involved in harvesting urchins. Aside from the initial collection of the creatures, they then must be cracked and cleaned of the gonads, which are then meticulously cleaned in turn. The flesh is then treated, packaged, and possibly shipped. As it’s shipped fresh rather than frozen, it’s subject to perishing

quickly, so is often quickly purchased by sushi restaurants and shops. When shopping for fresh uni, you should look for the brightest colouring. Bright yellow is normally preferred, but bright orange is considered just as good.

Pieces should be firm and not leaking fluids excessively.

Often found in paper-thin slices atop sushi rolls, it’s the soft, buttery texture that delights its fans. The taste can sometimes vary depending upon the region it’s harvested from and whether or not it’s in season. Aside from the standard treat of uni as sushi, other variations include uni tempura, uni custard, and various appetisers. It can also be used to make various uniquely flavoured sauces. However, be wary of cooking uni for too long, as the flavour can quickly be lost. Chefs are continually finding new and unique ways to prepare this delicacy.

So if you’re a lover of seafood, and not squeamish about eating another living creature’s gonads, perhaps try a spot of sea urchin when you’re next visiting New Zealand, the USA, exploring the Mediterranean or travelling to Japan, or perhaps just dining at your local sushi restaurant. You’ll find a few right here, on Samui.

Rosanne Turner

atch of the Day C That prickly delicacy, the sea urchin.

Romantic views, soothing sounds and classic Italian fare with a modern approach combine to please the most discerning diner.

Olivio - a must for visitors and locals alike.

Olivio ~ beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort Chaweng Beach.

Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500 www.siamwininganddining.com

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Moon Shining A quick look at what’s around when it comes to sundowners!

Remember that movie ‘The Beach”? (And if you haven’t seen it, you really should – it’s an insight into a whole subculture on and around Samui.) To continue: well, imagine Samui much like that, as it used to be, once upon a time.

Apart from the unusual things to smoke back then, there was also a limited range of alcoholic beverages to enjoy. Humankind has a long history of falling over due to fermented fruit and, although there were undoubtedly a variety of local home brews, the old favourite was ‘rice wine’.

‘Lao khao’ (trans: ‘rice-alcohol’) packs much the same abrasive smack as does the Irish (potato) ‘poteen’ the Turkish (raisins, figs) ‘rakis’, and indeed the Japanese (rice) ‘sake’, and with the advantage that it can easily be made at home.

You can also use it to strip paint. Moving on and up to a more refined, and possibly healthier, alternative, there was ‘yaa dong’. ‘Yaa’ is ‘medicine’ and ‘dong’ means ‘pickled’. The latter term also, incidentally, being an English synonym for ‘drunk’.

Traditionally this is a concoction of herbs, wood, bark, vines, roots, or the seeds of trees and other plants, sometimes also even insects and small animals, soaked in alcohol (usually

4 www.siamwininganddining.com

rice wine) to extract the invigorative properties.

Each of these splendidly restorative, dare I say, ‘liqueurs’, had a distinctive flavour and was given a colourful name to go with it – such as ‘Horse kicks the coffin’ or ‘All grown up now, can’t fall down’. Western visitors to Samui originally dubbed these shot(gun) glasses ‘accelerants’. Meaning they rushed you from zero to fall-down in just a couple of shots.

equivalents. The economy shelf holds the iniquitous ‘Sang Som’ (alternatively ‘Mekong’ whisky) favourite of all long-term farang residents but far too bottom-shelf for the Thais to suck on. It’s deemed to be a ‘whisky’ but is actually made from molasses and sugar.

Those were the days! Today there’s all sorts of legislation regarding yaa dong and, sadly, this dynamic form of home-brewed medicine has more or less faded away, apart from some of the more rural areas of the far-flung north and northeast of the Kingdom. Up there it’s much like the wilds of Nebraska but minus the snowshoes – there’s a lot of open space and only a handful of Mounties (most of whom are partial to a hit or two of ‘11 Tigers’ themselves).

All of which brings us to the here and now.

No, what the Thai tipplers go for socially is found one price-notch up – either the rather sweet Thai-made ‘Regency’ brandy or the ‘100 Pipers’ blended whisky. This is unusual as it’s imported, and usually this attracts a hefty tax (more on this aspect in a moment). There are several other spirituous beverages on the shelves, most of them produced by ThaiBev, the nation’s leading brewer. Other than the price, the acid (and that maybe the correct word) test for a Thai-brewed spirit is to try drinking it neat. If you can swill it around your mouth without instantly spitting it out, it’s probably imported.

If you have a particular urge for it, you can still buy lao khao today from any 7-11, although the girl behind the counter will probably look at you sideways for a moment or two: it’s not a classy drink. Thailand, however, does make quite a lot of its own spirits, even though they are not quite on a par with their Western

Beer is another story altogether. Casual visitors to Thailand often find it hard to get to grips with the flavour of Thai–brewed beer and in particular the distinctive aftertaste. All beer here is of the blonde lager variety and is particularly gassy to a Westernised palate. But a tip for you: drink it with a couple of ice cubes like the

Thais do. And you’ll find brands such as Singha (say it “beer sing”), Chang, Leo, Archa, San Miguel and Tiger on sale in most places. On a personal note - I’ve seen sipping Thai beers for 15 years and if you put a glass of each of the above brands in front of me, I still wouldn’t be able to tell the difference!

But imported beers are a whole new bag of fish, and they are keenly sought-after by visitors and expats alike. You’ll find labels such as Erdinger, Fosters, Guinness, Hoegaerden, John Smith’s, Kingfisher, Newcastle Brown, Old Speckled Hen, Stella, Tetley’s, Warsteiner, and more. But a word about the Irish ones, particularly the Guinness. Nearly all Guinness found here is made from condensed syrup that’s exported to Asia and reconstituted. One of the very few pubs which import casks (Guinness and Kilkenny) direct from Dublin is Chaweng’s Tropical Murphy’s, and their sister pub in Nathon, Max Murphy’s – and that fact is well-worth knowing.

And then we come to a depression in the festivities – the wines. Alas and alack, the Thai people don’t generally drink wine. Thus, unlike imported whisky, it’s considered to be the same as a Mercedes, a luxury item, and so subject to

‘Luxury Tax’. This means firstly a hefty import duty and then a 200% luxury tax on top of that.

The effect is that the same end-bin bottle that you bought for €3 to go with your supper back home costs more than €20 over here. Sad but true. Except for just one thing.

And that silver lining is the fact that, due to this, increasingly more wine is now being produced in Thailand. The cooler climes of the northern region provide ideal growing conditions and there are now several vineyards in full-scale production. These might prove curious to a connoisseur. But not only are they affordable, their comparatively robust flavour is an exact match with Thai cuisine.

What could be more perfect! There’s no longer any need to sample the homemade hooch of yesteryear, or sip at dodgy brews. On Samui, the only ‘moon shine’ you’re likely to experience is what’s all around you whilst you wiggle your toes in the sand at night. Samui’s not gained a rep as a tropical island paradise for nothing!

Rob De Wet

One of the best things about Samui is the sheer range and quality of cuisine that’s around. I read somewhere that there are more fine-dining restaurants here than anywhere else – but that’s working it out based on the size of the island and the number of people on it. Be that as it may, you’re certainly spoiled for choice if you’re looking to dine somewhere along Chaweng Beach Road. There are plenty of great eateries located elsewhere, but just this one street alone is packed with them! In fact, you’ll probably end up not going so far: there’s just so many to choose from!

But just because a place looks pretty doesn’t mean the quality of service and the food will be good. There are quite a few top-notch restaurants that don’t need to put on a show or fight with each other in order to compete. They’re content to sit quietly, without gimmicks, and let their reputation speak for itself. Plus word of mouth too, of course. These are the restaurants where you’ll find the best international chefs, gourmet cuisine, and the most elegant and refined surroundings. And one of these places is Akyra Chura Samui.

Akyra is a relative newcomer to the Samui scene, having opened in June of 2011. It’s actually a very select beach resort, having no fewer than 61 luxury suites in a broad swathe of land that runs between the beach road and the sand. But, like so many of the high-end resorts here, it also has its own discrete signature restaurant. You’ll find this right on the main road, walled and set back a little way, and with a large area within for parking. It’s all very low-key and modest, and you’d quite possibly overlook it if you weren’t aware of the joys within. The surest way to find it is to head north along Chaweng Beach Road past the junction with the Lake Road and towards Samui International Hospital. You’ll see Akyra not so far past this on the opposite side of the road.

The restaurant is actually titled ‘Noodle House’. But happily, the quality, range and variety of the cuisine that will be revealed here belies this humble epithet. The surroundings and décor are correspondingly up-market, too, elegant and subtly laid out, and with an open kitchen to one side. But although the thrust of the cuisine is positively Japanese, it’s not what you’d call traditionally so. In fact, I’m not sure if there is such a thing as ‘Japanese-International fusion’, but if not then consider it suddenly invented! Yes, you’ll find the expected green, brown, black, egg, tofu, and rice noodle dishes, but they’ll be accompanied by such unexpected bedfellows as imported Australian beef, black cod or fresh tuna. The key to all this, and an insight into the heart of the cuisine presented here, is all to do with the art of one man, Akyra’s Executive Chef, Khun Amporn Choeng-Ngam – otherwise known as Chef Bem. Chef Bem is something of a quiet celebrity. He’s been in charge of 5-star kitchens at such prestigious establishments

as Four Seasons and Chiva Som International and, prior to returning here to his current position, was the private chef to Princess Hassah bint Abdulaziz Al Saud of Saudia Arabia, specialising in health-food-oriented cuisine. And it’s the lean, light, clean zing of Asian-styled healthy eating that he is most excited by. “For the most part, we don’t like to be deceived by our food,” he explained. “We want real meat when we order steaks, and we want to know what our sauces are made of. ‘Healthy’ shouldn’t mean tiny flavourless portions!

Here there’s a fine-dining menu that tastes amazing and rivals the culinary big guns in terms of innovation and presentation.”

“For example, take a look at the ‘Lobster Granita’,” Chef Bem continued. “Large chunks of lobster and fresh vegetables in a delicate paper-thin spring roll and sprinkled with a sour iced granita that serves as a dressing. Or the ‘Miso Glazed Snow Fish’, presented on a purée of what looks like mashed potatoes, although this is actually crushed lotus seeds, so removing most of the carbohydrates from the meal, but without reducing any of the flavour.” There’s real art to doing all this; putting together healthy food – but instead of slimming all the taste and richness out of it, actually endowing with a set of complementary spices and flavourings that make it sing. Chef Bem uses skillets so that food can be cooked without oil, marinating different ingredients far ahead of time, and producing dishes that often take hours to prepare.

One such delicacy is his featured signature dish: ‘Kalbi’; Korean-style barbecue de-boned beef ribs served with homemade pickle and potato pancake.’ This is light and tangy with just a hint of spiciness and comes with a secret-recipe pesto sauce. The tender prime beef is carefully marinated beforehand and rubbed with salt and pepper to bring out its full flavour. The pesto is a blend of basil, garlic, cashew nuts, cheese, and light virgin olive oil. And the potato is mixed with egg, onion, salt and pepper to complement the moist texture of the beef. Finally, this signature offering is presented with the potato pancake over the beef, with a side green-salad, and with the pesto mix cascaded over the pancake. It’s delicious, light and healthy and is a dish fit for a Arabian princess, if not a king!

Rob De Wet

For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 5100. www.theakyra.com

S

ignature Dish This month’s mouth-watering morsel is fit for

a king and comes courtesy of Chef Bem at Akyra Chura.

Located in the beautiful Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach, our experienced chefs proudly present authentic Thai cuisine and Southern Thai dishes. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the tranquility of the beach, the twinkling stars and the whispering waves along with the beautiful music. A superb dining experience and great memories.

(Fisherman’s Village) 16/16 Moo 1, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Tel: 077 430 030, 077 245 035 Free Parking!! Opposite the restaurant

www.siamwininganddining.com

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Smashing Pumpkins

Gandhi y Happ ay Birthd

n Brya ston Cran

3

John Candy

March ed 4 1 0 2 ue W

Sun

2 9 16 23 30

Mon

3 10 17 24 31

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4 11 18 25

5 12 19 26

Thu 6 13 20 27

Fri Sat 1 8 7 5 14 1 2 2 21 9 28 2

A look what made food history in March.

1st – 1927. Harry Belafonte, singer and actor, was born. His biggest hit was ‘Day-O’ (The Banana Boat Song) in 1956. Go on, sing it…

and social achievements of women. So take the ladies in your life out for a delicious meal in celebration and honour of the day.

2nd – Thankfully, on this day in 1970, United States commercial whale hunting ended.

9th – 1822. Charles Graham of New York received a patent for artificial (false) teeth, expanding the culinary opportunities of the elderly beyond purees and soup.

3rd – Today marks ‘National Mulled Wine Day’ in the USA. 4 – On this day, in 1994, lovable Canadian comedian and actor, John Candy, died. th

5th – The start of many a good man’s vice. On this day, in 1558, Francisco Fernandes supposedly introduced smoking tobacco to Europe, and now we’re trying everything to give up the dreadful habit!

6th – 1912. Nabisco debuts the Oreo cookie. A remarkable day in the history of cookies! (Some sources say 1909). And few can argue that the Thailand Oreo (Or-lee-o) advertisement on TV is the cutest there is.

7 – 1897. Dr John Kellogg served cornflakes for the first time to his patients at his hospital in Battle Creek, Michigan. They wouldn't be sold commercially until 1906. th

8th – Each year around the world, International Women's Day (IWD) is celebrated. Thousands of events occur not just on this day, but also throughout March to mark the economic, political

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10th – On this day, in 1914, at the National Gallery in London, a suffragette slashed Diego Velázquez’s ‘Rokeby Venus’ with a meat cleaver.

11th – 1947. Mark Stein of the music group ‘Vanilla Fudge’ was born. What’s with the bands named after sweet treats?

12 – Mahatma Gandhi began his march to the coastal village of Dandi on this day, in 1930, to protest the British salt monopoly. This week also recognises ‘World Salt Awareness Week’. th

13th – 1764. Charles Grey, second Earl Grey, was born. He was supposedly given the recipe for Earl Grey tea by a Chinese Mandarin with whom he was friends.

14th –1958, ‘Tequila’ by The Champs is number one on the charts. And who hasn’t danced to that in a conga line at a party, right?

15th – In 1980, McDonald’s test-marketed Chicken McNuggets in Knoxville, Tennessee. They were instantly so popular that they had to look for a

second supplier.

16th – 1915. Absinthe is outlawed in France and several other countries. Absinthe was a liquorice/anise flavoured liqueur that contained wormwood, and was 132 proof. The high alcohol content, and the presence of the toxic oil thujone from the wormwood, seemed to cause hallucinations, convulsions, and severe mental problems amongst hardcore drinkers. Henry-Louis Pernod, who manufactured Absinthe, came out with the lower alcohol, wormwood-free liqueur, ‘Pernod’, to replace Absinthe.

17th – It’s St. Patrick’s Day! According to many studies, this is the biggest day of the year for combined food and beverage sales in restaurants and bars. Samui has its fair share of Irish pubs in which to celebrate with a hearty pint of Guinness.

shortage of Japanese grown rice. Japan’s Imperial Palace began serving royal meals to the Emperor and Empress with rice grown in the USA, China and Thailand.

22nd – This is the earliest day on which Easter can occur. It doesn’t this year, but is nearly a whole month later.

23rd – On this day, in 1857, Fannie Merritt Farmer was born. American culinary authority, and author of the 1896 edition of ‘The Boston Cooking School Cook Book’, she is often cited as the first cookbook author to introduce standard measurements.

24th– This marks ‘National Chocolate Covered Raisins Day’ in the USA. If anyone forgets, no one will mind.

18th – Another song-related foodie moment. In 1925, ‘Tea for Two’ was recorded by Binnie Hale & the Palace Theater Orchestra.

25th – And another ‘sweet treat memorial day’, but this time in Sweden. The Scandinavian country celebrates ‘Våffeldagen’ (Waffle Day).

19th – This marks ‘World Poultry Day’, so head out for a chicken satay or some crispy duck at your local café.

26th – Smashing Pumpkins guitarist James Jonas Iha was born this day, in 1968.

20th – 1602. The Dutch East India Company was established and the Netherlands granted it a monopoly on trade with Asia. And so Europe discovered all that is exotic about the East.

21st – In 1994, due to bad harvests, there was a

27th – 1969. ‘I Heard It Through The Grapevine’

by Marvin Gaye is number one on the UK singles chart.

28th – Sticking with food-related hits, in 1993, Hot Chocolate's Greatest Hits album is number one on the UK charts. And more music and food news…

in 2001 Coca Cola signs a sponsorship deal with Christina Aguilera.

29th – Not really a food history fact, unless you consider ice to be a food, but interesting nonetheless. In 1848, a huge upstream ice jam stopped almost all water flow over Niagara Falls for several hours. You could actually walk out into the riverbed below the falls.

30th– In 1868, The Pullman Palace Car Company introduced the first railroad dining car, and this day is now ‘National Dining Car Day’ in the USA. 31st – Today marks the last day in several month-long food celebrations: March is ‘National Caffeine Awareness Month’ in the USA, as well as ‘National Noodle Month’. In Canada, it’s ‘Nutrition Month’, and in the UK, ‘National Veggie Month’.

Rosanne Turner

A Quiet Passage The Terrace offers a tranquil beachside spot to enjoy delicious seafood dishes.

From the minute you turn off the ring-road on the north western tip of the island, you know you’re heading somewhere quiet. The Passage Samui Villas & Resort pride themselves on being ‘tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the island’, and when viewing their location, you’re inclined to use words like calm, quiet, secluded, remote, peaceful, private, romantic, restful and still. But the tranquillity of this resort is very real.

Close your eyes and hear the birds in the trees and the sound of gentle waves. This really is an escape.

Their beachfront dining restaurant, The Terrace, offers both Thai and International cuisine with a special focus on seafood.

It has breath-taking sunset views, and is so close to the sea that at certain times of the day, they can’t even have tables on the sand! Yes, this really is beachside dining.

We spoke to Food and Beverage Manager, Slavo Hus, who showed us the lunch and dinner menus. Available from 11:00 am, the lunch menu offers sandwiches (all served with salad and French fries), burgers, soups, pizza, pasta and salads, all for less than 350 baht. The Passage Club Sandwich (with smoked chicken, egg, bacon, ham, cheddar cheese, tomato, onion and mayo) is one of their signature dishes, as well as the Terrace Burger (a homemade ground beef burger in a sesame bun, onion, iceberg lettuce, tomato and mayo); the Seafood Pizza (prawns, squid and mussels with tomato paste, mozzarella cheese and oregano); and the especially good Shrimp Avocado Salad (a mixed green salad, shrimp and avocado sauce). If you prefer Thai food, there’s a great selection of the popular dishes, for example, chicken satay; stir-fried rice or noodles; tom yum (hot and spicy clear broth); tom kha gai (creamy coconut soup); and massaman curry (a Malaysian influenced curry with potatoes)

But where The Terrace really comes into its own is with its location. Completely open on three sides with a fantastically high ceiling and a beautiful, intricate wrought iron sculpture hanging on the only wall, it’s a beautiful open space where each table has sea views. The dinner menu is available from 5:00 pm but if you arrive earlier, pull up a chair, order from their cocktail menu (they have six signature cocktails!) and sit back and wait for the sunset.

Besides the starters, soups and pasta dishes, the dinner menu has an extensive seafood selection. But first let’s talk about their two main seafood signature dishes, the ‘Surf and Turf Eclipse Plate’ and the ‘Ocean Meeting Plate’. There is a reason why they have chosen to include the weight of the food served, this surf and turf has a 500g rib-eye steak (served with fries and red wine/pepper sauce) and not one, but two whole grilled rock lobsters (served with baked potato and vegetables with garlic lemon butter sauce). Yes, you’ve guessed it, this dish is to share … recommended but not compulsory.

The ‘Ocean Meeting Plate’ is exactly what it says - seafood meeting on your plate. A 200g white snapper fillet, salmon, tuna, grilled scallops, king prawns, mussels and rock lobster, all served with a mixed green salad, fried rice and vegetables with garlic lemon butter sauce, tartar sauce or spicy sweet and sour sauce.

There are three different red snapper dishes to choose from (one of which is another signature dish), each coming with an incredible 800g portion of the succulent fish. If you’d prefer a set menu, ‘The Terrace Sunset Set Dinner’ for two offers the shrimp avocado salad, lobster bisque soup, lobster thermidor, and apple strudel for dessert. Or perhaps something a little

different is the ‘Twin Deep Sea Plate’ which is a 500g portion of Phuket lobster served with vegetables and scallops, in a tomato sauce with fettuccini and parmesan cheese.

Then you’ll find further signature dishes of Pan-fried White Snapper Fillet; Rock Lobster Mediterranean; Grilled Rock Lobster with Thai herbs; Pork Chop with rice salad risotto and mixed fried vegetables; grilled New Zealand lamb chop with baked potato and mint sauce; and finally the delicious Ossobucco (veal shanks in a red wine gravy sauce with carrots, shallots and a baked potato). If you’ve eaten seafood for the last few nights and fancy something land-based, the ‘Trio Monster Plate’ with a pork chop, lamb chop and beef tenderloin should sort that craving out pretty quick.

bass is 300 baht, would you believe me? (And there’s even a complimentary salad bar) Thursdays is ‘Asian Cuisine’ and we’re talking the ‘whole’ of Asia here, Thailand, Japan, China, and Korea. It’s a buffet style ‘all you can eat’ for just 790 baht, and finally on Saturdays there’s the ‘Meat Lover’ night where you can indulge in all things meaty with prices less than 500 baht (and the weights range from 200g - 1.2kg!) and again a complimentary salad bar.

The Terrace really has so much to offer. Besides a truly peaceful location, you could stay here for one week and never ever have to eat the same dish … unless, of course, you want to.

The Thai menu also makes the most of the fresh seafood, with shrimp salad (yam som ou); stir-fried flat noodles with shrimp (phad see-iew); steamed sea bass with plum, pork belly, shitake and spring onions (pla noung buay); deep fried sea bass with tomato, pineapple, onion, capsicum, spring onions and sweet and sour sauce (pla priaw wan); and stir-fried soft shell crab (poo nim kratam prik tai).

And the biggest surprise? All the prices mentioned here and on the menu already include government taxes and service charges. All you need to do is arrive, relax, and enjoy the peace and quiet, the view and the food.

And don’t even get us started on the selection of fresh desserts beckoning from the chiller cabinet at the entrance to the restaurant. They’ve also got a gas stove for doing some very special flambé desserts.

For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 1721. www.thepassagesamui.com

Colleen Setchell

But wait, there’s more, they have themed nights with what we can only described as unbelievable prices. Monday is ‘Catch of the Day’ where you can get sea bass, salmon, barracuda, tuna, red/white snapper, tiger prawns, blue crab and New Zealand mussels for crazy prices. If I told you that the 500g whole sea

NEO – New World Tapas and Josper Grill Coming to Chaweng Beach, March 2014 Facebook - NEOSAMUI

Reservation: +66 (0) 77 915 155

www.kcbeachclub.com rsvn@kcbeachclubsamui.com www.siamwininganddining.com

7

Making a great cup of coffee or coffee-based drink doesn’t have to be hard work. Product developers at Boncafe know how important it is for coffee shop staff to make an order as efficiently as possible, so as not to keep a customer waiting, but at the same time, providing a top-quality drink. The company is constantly sourcing new ways to help customers, by supplying both efficient machines as well as products to make delicious beverages without the fuss.

Firstly, a little background on the company. Boncafe (Thailand) Ltd. is a leading Thai-Swiss gourmet coffee manufacturer and exporter, and a provider of coffee and tea products to the restaurant and hotel industry, as well as to the general public. With head offices in Bangkok, a factory in Sri Racha, Chonburi, several branches in the main provincial hubs as well as supplying ten supermarket chains, this popular brand of Thai coffee is available throughout the nation.

The company has evolved its product range over the years, and now sells more than just coffee and machines. Unusual and delicious drinks will help your coffee shop stand out from the crowd and draw regular customers too. The Torani range of syrups and sauces is imported from California especially for Boncafe, and is delicious not only as flavouring for coffees, shakes and smoothies, but also to decorate milk froth or as a topping for desserts and cakes.

Again, Boncafe has an interesting selection of recipes on how to use the syrups. Here we’re highlighting the Torani sauces, which come in three variations: white chocolate (a perfect blend of sugar, milk and cocoa butter), caramel (with a rich, creamy caramel taste) and dark chocolate (intense and rich, it’s indispensable for hot chocolate and iced mocha creations). All three flavours add a delicious twist to a plain cup of coffee. Torani is one of those quick and simple solutions used by coffee houses around the world to bring in regular customers wanting their favourite flavoured coffee. The product is easy to use and comes in a pump dispenser, perfectly releasing a 30ml portion to either hot or cold drinks, guaranteeing consistency to every cup you serve.

Of course, they meet the high Boncafe standards, and are made from top quality ingredients, such as cocoa from the Netherlands, fresh cream and top grade butter. If you’re keen to try them at home or in your restaurant, pick up a recipe book at the Boncafe outlet, as well as a bottle of one of the delicious Torani sauces, and start experimenting with your own combinations too. Or, you can try one of these tried and tested recipes, which are beginner friendly, yet still interesting enough for those familiar with using coffee sauces: Caramel Frother Latte • One shot espresso • 15ml Torani Caramel Sauce • 15ml Torani Vanilla Syrup • 150ml fresh milk Steam the milk, adding the sauce and syrup. Add the shot of espresso and top with frothed milk.

Butterscotch Mocha • One shot espresso • 30ml Torani Dark Chocolate Sauce • 10ml Torani Butterscotch Syrup • 150ml fresh milk Steam milk, sauce and syrup together and pour into a tall glass, adding the shot of freshly brewed espresso. Top with a layer of frothed milk.

White Chocolate Iced Mocha • One shot espresso • 30ml Torani White Chocolate Sauce • 75ml fresh milk • One cup crushed ice • Whipped cream and Lyons Designer Chocolate Sauce for decoration.

Combine espresso, milk, Torani sauce together and pour into a glass filled with the crushed ice. Stir well, and decorate with the cream and chocolate sauce.

Simply Delicious Boncafe has a reputation for supplying quality beverage products to the hospitality industry.

Well if the sound of those recipes has got your taste buds tingling, you’ll be pleased to know that Boncafe frequently provides free workshops. In this way, they can demonstrate their products with suggested recipes, and ensure that the baristas are making the most of what’s on offer at Boncafe. The next workshop to be held on 12th March 2014, will highlight the Torani sauces, and will take place at the Samui branch of Boncafe, along the ring-road in Bophut, just past the PTT fuel station when heading towards Maenam. The workshop promises to be very informative, so call the store to reserve your place. Attendees will be shown how to make a perfect cup of coffee, and there’ll be demonstrations on making speciality coffees and drinks using the Torani products imported from the USA. Of course, these great sauces and syrups need to be used with premium coffee to get the best results. Boncafe has a reputation for only providing premium beans. Not only is the coffee good, but Boncafe is UTZ certified, meaning that they only source their beans from sustainable farms that provide better opportunities for the farmers and their families. Farmers are educated in growing better crops in order to generate more income, while at the same time, safeguarding the environment for the future. Knowing this makes the coffee taste even better, so why not try one of their delicious speciality coffees – but be warned, you may just get hooked.

Rosanne Turner For further information, telephone 0 7742 7486. www.boncafe.co.th

Sea Wrap ...living by the sea...

Le Jaroen “A Secret World”

Ease yourself to the sound of gently lapping waves and enjoy the breath-taking sea views.

Savor Mediterranean bistro culinary delights & modern Thai specialties, for a unique beachfront dining experience.

Peace Resort 178, Moo 1, Bophut Beach, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Thailand Tel: +66 77 425357 | Fax: +66 77 425343 www.peaceresort.com seawrap@peaceresort.com

Probably the most enchanting restaurant on the island for an unforgettable romantic evening.

Induldge your senses with an exquisite 5 course Chef’s Signature Menu or 4 course Thai Degustation Menu.

Tel +66 (0)77 962 198 info@thescenthotel.com www.thescenthotel.com The Scent Hotel 58/1 Moo 4 Bangrak Beach, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320, Thailand

8 www.siamwininganddining.com

www.siamwininganddining.com 9

Hidden Ge

We look at a super restaurant that’s hidden away – Ch

I reckon we ought to start a new series. Here, at Wining & Dining, we take the whole business of food very seriously. Samui’s now become something of a gourmet’s paradise. But, they tell me, there really is life outside of Chaweng! Lots of it, in fact! And that means that there are countless numbers of really tip-top eateries that most people don’t even know exist. Even Chaweng itself is filled with side streets and big beach resorts; there are dozens of great restaurants that you just can’t see from the road.

And one such hidden gem is to be found at Sareeraya.

‘Sareeraya Villas & Suites’, to give it its full title, has become well-establish during the five years that it’s been on the island. It was part of the first wave of cleanly-design resorts to appear here. A low-key approach is part and parcel of this resort, including its understated and gentile frontage.

Indeed, if you drive northwards up Chaweng Beach Road, you might not even notice the high grey-panelled walls of Sareeraya, with the elegant gold signage. But if you slow-down when you get to the Samui International Hospital, you won’t fail

to spot the resort, almost directly opposite.

It’s not accurate to describe the resort as ‘minimalist’ in concept. The whole place is more subtle than that – more exciting, even. But whereas some resorts seem to have embraced the idea of minimalism with unthinking abandon, Sareeraya’s done it with verve. Everywhere there’s a contrast between the smooth and the textured, the bland and the complex, and the architecture of space has been effortlessly blended with cameos of traditional Thai design. This, but combined with the added motif of a water theme that’s reflected throughout the whole resort.

There are actually 49 five-star suites and pool villas here, but the layout is so subtle that you’ll only get hints of these as you make your way through and towards the beach. Even the water theme is gently presented, as you’ll see as soon as you enter the resort: just take a moment to appreciate the spatial dynamics of what almost amounts to a huge walk-through water-linked sculpture as you enter. The name itself, Sareeraya, means ‘Princess of the Ocean’. Lily ponds sit

quietly and cascades tinkle melodically, almost unseen. And, following the path to the beach, you’ll emerge almost alongside the resort’s signature restaurant, Chef’s Table.

The same consistent design harmonies are to be found here also, with the big free-flow motif on the wall being interspersed with plain scrubbed panels, and the geometry of the furniture contrasting with the myriad of embryonic rattan ceiling fans. Like many restaurants in Thailand, this isn’t a ‘room’, but rather a large covered space, in this case open on two sides. It’s cool, shady, comfortable and immediately relaxing, and the ambiance is lovely. But here’s the thing. This isn’t what you’d call a ‘fine dining’ restaurant. It adopts no airs or graces. And despite the gracious style and décor of the resort, the prices here are startlingly affordable. The management policy at this resort is realistic when it comes to this sort of thing, which is even more surprising when you discover who is running the kitchen.

The executive chef here is New Zealander, Steven van Duyn. He’s been on the island, on and off,

for quite a while now. Steven previously worked in a variety of prestigious 5-star establishments, and was one of the several international chefs who were selected to contribute to the prestigious worldwide Unilever’s ‘The Signature’ coffee-table cookbook, in 2009. And his unique approach and skills have been solely responsible for forming the outstanding menu that’s offered.

Steven avoids the now-clichéd concept of ‘fusion cuisine’ – it was a popular buzzword for a while but became so misused as to become more or less meaningless. A quality menu means quality imported meats and produce – but here we are in Asia. And any chef who’s worth his salt will instinctively embrace elements of local cuisine; herbs, spices, vegetables and sauces. Meaning that, here, you’ll see items like grass-fed Australian tenderloin, New Zealand mussels and American scallops on the table with lobsters from Phuket, simply because each of these represents the best that’s available.

And as for elements of natural ‘fusion’, witness the ‘Asian Nashi Pear, Marinated Shitake Mushrooms, Carrot, Coriander and Peanuts’ in the

starters section. Or the scrumptious ‘Grilled Miso-glazed Sea Bass Fillets with Seafood, Tortellini, Cucumber Ribbons, Tomato and Saffron Sauce’. Another hallmark of a quality chef it that he will lovingly create real desserts, not merely offer the ice-cream and fruit that you’ll encounter on many menus. And here the sticky toffee pudding or the coconut cream brûlée will blow your gastro socks off.

But the most popular choices are in a different direction. There are two set-menus of Euro-style ‘tasting’ options with main courses that feature NZ/Australian meat dishes. And a sumptuous ‘Seafood Basket for Two’, where you’ll be hard pushed to finish the whole sea bass, the king prawns, cuttlefish, mussels and king crabs. And then there’s a super Thai section, the highlight of which is also the ‘Set Menus’. Headed ‘Love for Thailand’, there are two different options which feature combinations of the most popular Thai dishes, laid-out in the form of four different courses with a multiple-dish choice for the main course.

Weddings, Celebrations, Parties & Honeymoons River Prawn Tom Yum

Rock Lobster

Sunset Dining in Spectacular Surrounds Enjoy breathtaking sunsets while discovering our culinary delights at The Terrace, one of Koh Samui’s best beachfront dining destinations.

A holiday or a visit to The Passage would not be complete without sampling the food at The Terrace. Nestled on the beach, this majestic open-air restaurant affords diners a perfect view of the spectacular sunset over Laem Yai Bay and the distant islands.

10 www.siamwininganddining.com

Sea Food Taco

Lamb Chop

Beef Lasagna

Phuket Lobster Thermidor

Carbonara Pizza

This epicurean dining nirvana serves up the finest catches from the sea so our guests can feast like kings. Pay homage to our specialty – the royal triumvirate of lobster, tiger prawn and oysters.

Engage your senses as Executive Chef Moo takes you on a culinary journey, and discover the flavours that resonate in Thai-European fusion cuisine.

The Passage is not just a resort. It’s also a great location for weddings and honeymoons. The resort offers specially designed packages to suit your personal style and budget.

So come and experience the wedding of a lifetime at The Passage Koh Samui.

The Passage Samui Villas & Resort Laem Yai Beach Reservations 077 421 721 www.thepassagesamui.com

ems

hef’s Table at Sareeraya.

If this is what appeals to you, then you’ll look forward to coming here on a Wednesday evening.

That’s when Sareeraya hold its ‘Khantoke Night’ on the beach, offering a basket with multiple Thai mini-dishes to savour. And they also have similar style beach BBQ evenings on each Monday (Thai) and Thursday (Asian), with the added incentive that children under 11 are half price and children under six are free. These events really are super, at the edge of the sea and with a huge selection of all-you-can-eat offerings.

And, with those reductions for kids, a great many families have returned more than once during their stay, to this ‘hidden gem’ at Sareeraya Villas & Suites!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 4333. www.sareeraya.com

www.siamwininganddining.com

11

Rea

BAR & RESTAURANT

Open from 10:00 am - 01:00 am (main kitchen), with pizzas being served until 1:00 am.

For reservations and further information, telephone 077 961 648 www.spagosamui.com

Grill & BBQ, Thai Cuisine Fish and Seafood Open from 12:00 am - 01:00 am For reservations and further information, telephone 077 963 213 www.galangasamui.com

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ady? Get set…eat!

Krua Bophut takes the strain out of having to choose.

Let’s face it, Thai food is delicious. The fresh ingredients, coupled with the tangy lime or lemongrass flavours, the spiciness of the chilli and the flavoursome garlic, it’s a favourite the world over.

But have you ever been in that awful situation when you’re sitting in a beautiful beachside restaurant staring at the menu in front of you and not knowing where to start? Will it be green or red curry tonight? Chicken or pork? Will you eat soup or not? Rice or noodles? Will you try a new vegetable dish or opt for something spicier than usual? It can be a nightmare. But Krua Bophut restaurant, at the western end of Fisherman’s Village, have made life easy for you and offer two set menus, giving you not only a great selection of dishes but also a variety of tastes, textures and presentation.

But first let’s tell you a little bit about Krua Bophut itself. A beautiful teak traditional Thai-style building, it’s hard to miss. It often looks quiet because of the lack of patrons seen in the restaurant when you walk past and peek through the open wooden shutters. But the guests dining here are all in the best spot - out on the terrace or down on the beach. Set back from the public beach so you can still eat in private, you can

wiggle your toes in the sand here while trying to decide what you’re going to eat.

Beautiful, relaxing music is played, but you can still hear the sound of the waves lapping on the sand. The table decorations of glass vases with candles, sand and shells remind you where you are, and the fire lanterns on the beach create a wonderful calm oasis. Tall coconut trees sway gently overhead and you really feel as if you’re sitting in a tropical garden.

But now onto the part you’ve been waiting for … the food. So you’re having a hard time deciding?

If you’re already familiar with Krua Bophut’s main menu, you will know that are you incredibly spoilt for choice. They have wonderful seafood options, a large selection of meat dishes and some interesting salads but all this makes it even harder to choose, so perhaps skip the stress and head straight to the two set menus that they offer, Special Menu A and Special Menu B. There you go, just two choices, isn’t that a bit easier?

Both menus include a further relief from having to make more choices - ‘Bo Phut Kitchen selection of appetisers’ which is two deliciously fat, juicy prawns in a light, crunchy batter; two freshly cooked spring rolls filled with crunchy,

grated vegetables; two medium-sized squares of fried chicken toasts; two helpings of calamari and prawn wrapped in rice paper and lastly, two little dim sum parcels of pork. A delicious helping of crunchy, crispy, tasty appetisers.

On to the rest of the dishes, and let’s start with Set Menu A. After enjoying your appetiser, you can move on to the tom yam goong soup. Tom yam is a traditional hot and sour soup made with lemon grass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, dried chillies and lime juice. When you see the word ‘goong’ on a menu in Thailand, it means the dish will contain prawns. So this is a deliciously hot and spicy soup with prawns. If you’d prefer something less spicy, do ask and they will do their best to accommodate you.

Next is the fresh, citrusy som tum salad. This is made with grated green papaya, chopped tomatoes, chopped green beans and dried shrimp. The dressing is a true taste of Thailand made from lime, garlic and palm sugar. Lastly a sprinkling of peanuts and you’re good to go.

Thailand on a plate.

Next a mild green curry with chicken and baby eggplant. Green curry is made with coconut milk, green chillies and Thai basil. Don’t let the chillies

put you off, it’s not known for being an overly spicy dish and is, in fact, full of flavour. It also contains baby aubergines which will add to your daily vegetable intake nicely.

between Thai (curry) and Chinese (roasted duck) cuisines. The meat works deliciously well in a curry with Thai spices making this a tasty, succulent dish.

Next, the fish dish which is stir-fried white snapper with three spices. Krua Bophut take pride in their fish dishes so you’re sure not to be disappointed. Hopefully you still have space for dessert in the form of coconut ice cream - after all, you are on an island filled with coconut trees.

The stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts is a firm favourite in Thai restaurants all over the world and actually comes from a Sichuan style fried chicken dish.

Or you can opt for Set Menu B. Starting again with the ‘Bo Phut Kitchen selection of appetisers’ which we described above, it moves on to another very traditional Thai soup but this time, it’s tom kha gai, which is a chicken soup made with coconut milk and Thai herbs and can be mild or spicy. Next a nice light salad of fresh vegetables - cucumber, tomatoes, onions, grated carrots, shredded cabbage with the ever-beautiful vegetable carved decorations for which Thailand is so well known.

Prepare yourself now because it’s time for your delicious main courses of roasted duck curry, and the ever popular stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts. Duck is not that common on the island’s menus, but this dish is a quintessential mix

And finally, some banana fritters for dessert, if you have space.

So there you have it, if you start off having difficulty choosing just one dish to indulge in, go for the set menu and enjoy six different dishes and get a real taste of Thailand, thanks to Krua Bophut.

Make sure you book if you visit on the weekend!

Colleen Setchell For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7743 0030 www.kruabophut.com

www.siamwininganddining.com 13

What Makes it Unique?

Discovering the secrets of Japanese cuisine.

It’s a mysterious land. A land of ritual, custom and tradition. A country where ancestors are venerated and honour is a way of life. It’s ‘The Land of the Rising Sun’ and the home of the Samurai. And, although Japan traditionally always kept very much to itself and resisted outside influences, today things have changed.

Japan has become more Westernised. And, in exchange, you’ll find Japanese products all over the world. But one of the best-loved exports isn’t the cameras, or even the cars – it’s the cuisine.

It’s not easy for the novice to get to grips with Japanese food. One reason, of course, is that the dishes all have unfamiliar names – it’s hard to relate them to anything that you know. And another is the suspicion that you might keep finding yourself looking at plates of uncooked meat or fish. And what about chopsticks – will you have to cope with them?

Actually, it’s all far easier than it sounds, even for the complete beginner. And for that we have to thank one of the traditions of which Japan is so rightly proud. It’s long been the custom of restaurants in Japan to have illustrated menus – menus with photographs of the food. In fact, the more prestigious

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restaurants declare their status by displaying detailed ceramic replicas of their dishes in their windows. This is quite an art-form, and the Japanese place a high value on presentation.

Everything has to be good, look good and taste good, too!

The next point to ease your mind is the vast majority of Japanese food is cooked; not raw.

(Although the delicate slivers of the raw fish or meat are mouth-wateringly delicious.) There’s a wide range of fare to choose from – curries or fried rice; noodle dishes; grilled fish; chicken skewers; pork cutlets; hot pots and stews. It’s only the sashimi dishes that have uncooked fish or meat – plus some of the sushi – but more about this later.

Chopsticks? Well, using chopsticks is a skill that’s acquired through experience, and it’s true that you need constant practice to become effortless with them. If you go to Japan, you’ll find that there are strict rules of conduct in this area. For example, it’s considered most distasteful to plunge your chopsticks into your rice. It’s only at funerals that this is acceptable – and the bowl of rice, in this case, is on the altar. And if there are shared plates of food on the table, then it’s polite to use the opposite

end of your chopsticks (the thick end) to serve yourself from these communal plates. But never mind. Outside Japan you’ll undoubtedly be also provided with a spoon, and there’ll be knives and forks available, if you want to use them.

You’ll find that most Japanese restaurants offer a variety of set menus in addition to the individual items. And this is an excellent place to start, as it gives you several things to nibble at once. But, in order to make everything clearer, it is useful to know something about the different dishes that you’ll encounter.

Firstly, as you’d expect, rice is the mainstay of Japanese cuisine, as it is in all Eastern countries. And you’ll find this in different forms. It might be a dish in its own right, such as egg or chicken fried rice, or mixed-in with other ingredients – combined with sushi, for example.

And ‘sushi’ is simply the term that’s used to describe a certain style of dish containing rice.

There’s lots of varieties, too. Nigiri are small balls of rice covered with meat, fish, omelette and so on. And, yes, here you may find that some have raw meat or seafood draped over them. Norimaki are distinctive in that their

layers of filling and rice are rolled together and wrapped with thin, crispy seaweed sheets (nori). And in addition to these, you’ll also find sushi appearing as stuffed cones, in deep-fried bags, and, simply, in bowls. Similar to nigiri is onigiri – but this type of sushi takes the form of small balls instead.

Domburi is the Japanese word for ‘bowl’ and these dishes are simply bowls of cooked rice with some sort of topping. Popular variations include beef, pork, chicken and seafood – all usually fried or grilled.

And, along similar lines, you’ll also encounter yakizakana – meaning ‘grilled fish’. But this will be a much larger portion that the small slices found in domburi.

Which brings us on to the meat dishes. These will be grilled, boiled or fried, and include such familiar items as skewered ‘kebabs’ and pork cutlets.

The nabe area of the menu involves a hot pot with a burner, and the food is usually prepared at the table. One of the best known of these is suki yaki, which is made with slices of meat, vegetables, mushrooms and noodles. It’s

interesting to note that the staple diet of the legendary sumo wrestlers is one of the dishes in this family – the chanko nabe.

Weight-watchers take note.

And to the delight of those amongst you who are vegetarians, finally, there’s the soya bean and the noodle dishes. Tofu, natto and miso are made from soya beans, and form a prominent part of the Japanese diet. And the noodle dishes come in the familiar thick, thin and ribbon varieties, and are served in the form of soups, or placed on the plate in a similar way to pasta dishes.

Samui has several excellent Japanese restaurants, but if you (or the kids) are still not convinced, remember this. Japanese cuisine is not as formal as it once was – and it’s quite possible that there will be some surprises in store. And if you really don’t fancy going mainstream, then try the potato croquettes (korokke), the omelettes (omuraisu) or the hamburger (hamubagu) instead. Japanese food’s not really that mysterious.

Rob De Wet

Pavilion presents the best in Samui Boutique Resort dining.

The Patio Restaurant serves authentic Italian and Thai delicacies. Experience a romantic meal with outstanding sea views.

The Look-Out Bar is the ideal place to unwind with a drink by our beach side pool.

Romantic Dinner on the Beach

Enjoy an elegant and romantic meal at sunset on the soft sandy beach.

(Includes a bottle of our best Prosecco) Please make a reservation one day in advance.

Wednesday Night Pasta Night Dinner Buffet

Sunday Night Steak Night

From 07.00 PM - 10.30 PM

From 07.00 PM - 10.30 PM

Huge variety of homemade pasta and a selection of pasta sauces.

N.Z. Sirloin, N.Z. Tenderloin & N.Z. T-Bone.

Choice of pepper sauce, mushroom sauce, bĂŠarnaise sauce, red wine sauce, herb sauce.

Cold cuts, cold appetisers, meat, seafood, vegetable, fresh fruits and desserts.

Served with - baked potato, mash potato, French fries, sautĂŠed potato, creamy spinach.

(A la carte menu also available) Includes one glass of house wine.

Monday Night Thai Night

Saturday Night Seafood & Barbecue Night

From 7.30PM - 10.30 PM An outstanding Thai buffet dinner plus classical Thai dancing performance.

Try our seafood & barbecue with a selection of lobster, rock lobster, jumbo prawn, squid, blue crab and sea bass as well as chicken, pork, beef or mixed kebabs. Be amazed by our salad bar for vegetarians.

(A la carte menu also available)

(A la carte menu also available)

Wedding on The Beach Experience the most special day of your life in romantic tropical surroundings at Pavillon Samui Boutique Resort.

Select from our Western, Thai and Chinese wedding options.

Let us tailor make a celebration for you or choose one of our wedding packages.

Lamai Beach, Koh Samui Tel: 0 7742 4420, 0 7742 4030 Fax: 0 7742 4029 info@pavilionsamui.com www.pavilionsamui.com

www.siamwininganddining.com 15

T

ropical Pick

March’s fruit of the month – Tamarind

Of all the fruits of the tropics, none is more widely distributed or more appreciated as an ornamental than the tamarind. Of the family leguminosae, tamarindus indica, is known colloquially as variations of the common English term in many European countries. In Spanish and Portuguese it is tamarindo, in French, tamarin, tamarinier or tamarindier, in German, tamarinde and in Italian as tamarandizio. In Asian countries the names differ. In Malay it is asam jawa, in Cambodia, ampil or khoua me, in Laos, mak kham and in Thailand it’s called ma-kharm.

Originally native to tropical Africa, it’s now found right around the world where conditions are right. It was well known to the ancient Egyptians and Greeks and was introduced to India so long ago that it’s often reported as being indigenous to there also. Apparently it was from India that it reached the Persians and Arabs who called it tamar hindi (meaning ‘Indian date’, due to the date-like appearance of the dried pulp). This gave rise to both its common and generic names. Unfortunately, the specific name ‘indica’ also perpetuates the illusion of Indian origin.

It’s a slow-growing, long-lived tree that can reach heights of up to 100 feet in favourable conditions. While the leaves are normally evergreen they can be shed in very dry areas

during the hot season. You’ll find the fruits are flattish, beanlike and have irregularly bulged pods. They can grow in great abundance and vary between two and seven inches long.

Usually they are brownish in colour on the outside and as they mature will fill out and the juicy, acidulous pulp will darken. Thereafter the skin becomes brittle and the shell is easily cracked.

As a food it has many uses. Tender, immature, very sour pods are cooked as seasoning with rice, fish and some meats in Southeast Asian countries. Full-grown, but still unripe fruits, called ‘swells’ in the Bahamas, are roasted in coals until they burst. The skin is then peeled back and the sizzling pulp dipped in wood ashes and eaten. In Thailand, particularly in the Northeast, it is sometimes added to massaman curries and to soups such as tom yam and tom ka. And with spicy fried fish dishes, tamarind pulp can be rubbed on the fish before cooking to add a particular flavour.

It is also an important ingredient in chutneys and sauces, including some brands of Worcestershire and barbecue sauces. And you’ll find it in a special Indian seafood pickle, unsurprisingly called ‘tamarind fish’. In the West Indies a sugared tamarind pulp is often prepared as a confection and in Panama the pulp is sold as a snack in corn husks or palm

leaves. A carbonated drink called tamarind-ade has long been a popular drink in several Central American countries and a spiced tamarind beverage has been developed by technologists in India.

But, for me, the Brazilians have got the right idea. They’ve done what eventually had to happen. First of all they allow a quantity of shelled fruits to be covered in cold water and left to stand for around 12 hours. They then strain the seeds out and add one cup of sugar for every two cups of pulp. I think you can see where this is going! This mixture is then boiled for 20 minutes and – this is the best part – then put up in glass jars topped with paraffin! What happens after that is unknown as no-one can ever remember!

There are a number of other uses for the pulp and different parts of the tree. In West Africa an infusion of the whole pods is added to the dye when colouring goat hides. It also serves to coagulate rubber latex, and the pulp, when mixed with sea water, cleans silver, copper and brass. Cattle and goats can be fed the leaves and when the leaves are boiled they are used to bleach the leaves of the buri palm to prepare them for hat making. Flowers from the tree are rated as a good source of nectar for honeybees in South India. And the powder from tamarind kernels has been adopted by the Indian textile

A Unique Koh Samui Experience at The Farmer

industry as 300% more efficient and more economical than corn-starch for finishing cotton, jute and spun viscose. Other industrial uses include employment in colour printing of textiles, paper-sizing, leather treating, the manufacture of a structural plastic, a glue for wood, and a thickener in some explosives. It’s exported to Japan, the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom.

Amber oil from the seeds is often used as an illuminant and as a varnish, especially preferred for painting dolls and idols. As the heartwood is very hard and durable, it’s highly prized for furniture, wheels, axles, ploughs, mallets and tool-handles. It’s also valued for fuel as it gives off an intense heat and yields a charcoal used in the manufacture of gunpowder. Young stems can also be fashioned into walking-sticks.

Medically, the uses of tamarind are innumerable. Vast quantities are exported to pharmaceutical companies around the world each year. Tamarind preparations are recognised as refrigerants in fevers and as laxatives and carminatives. And with the addition of other ingredients, it’s been used as a digestive and a cure for bile disorders. It can be used for inflammations and to combat sunstroke. And an infusion of the roots is believed to have curative value in chest complaints, and is an ingredient in

prescriptions for leprosy.

There are also a few superstitions surrounding the tree. To certain Burmese, the tree represents the dwelling-place of the rain god and some hold the belief that the tree raises the temperature in its immediate vicinity. Few plants will survive beneath a tamarind tree and there is a superstition that it’s harmful to sleep or tie a horse underneath one. This is probably because of the corrosive effect that fallen leaves have on fabrics in damp weather. In parts of Malaysia, a little tamarind and coconut milk is placed in the mouth of an infant at birth. And the bark and fruit are given to elephants to make them wise. I might try that myself!

Clearly this is a very important and useful fruit that has innumerable uses. You’ve probably had some and just not realised it. Even if you haven’t eaten it in some way you might be wearing it, for it’s used extensively in body scrubs, lotions, hair dyes, lip balms and soaps.

You’ll find the fruits in the local markets on Samui and most notably, at the Impiana Resort in Chaweng Noi, which has named its fine-dining restaurant – Tamarind – in honour of the huge tamarind tree growing in the middle of the resort.

Johnny Paterson

Exclusive Lunch Promotion at The Farmer from 12:00 to 15:00 every day

The Farmer Restaurant & Bar is the only restaurant on Samui offering a unique natural ambience, set amid paddy fields and green meadows. It is perfect for a relaxed lunch, or dinner under the twinkling stars.

Visit The Farmer and experience the real meaning of “Back to Nature” whilst enjoying the best of local Thai, Western and seafood dishes.

Farmer’s Duck

Khantoke (for 2 people)

Crispy fried duck served with 5 colour rice, herbal sauce, gourd soup and fresh tropical fruit.

290 Baht ++

Chicken satay, spring rolls, tom yam goong, laap (minced chicken salad with Thai herbs), choice of curry (either green, red, massaman or paneang), stir fried vegetables. Served with 5 colour rice.

990 Baht ++

The Farmer Restaurant & Bar 1/26 Moo 4, Maenam, Koh Samui Tel: 077 447 222, 077 247 979, 083 092 2632 www.thefarmerrestaurantsamui.com email: info@thefarmerrestaurantsamui.com Free transfer for dinner guests Nathon - Maenam - Bophut. Other areas 300 Baht return. Для гостей из районов Nathon - Maenam - Bophut - трансфер бесплатный. Гостям из других районов острова мы возвращаем 300 батт от стоимости такси.

16 www.siamwininganddining.com

TOP TEN 2011 www.tripadvisor.com

You Can’t Keep a Good One Down

Why Nora Beach Resort has been leading the way with beach buffets ever since they opened!

It’s a large and comfortable traditionally styled resort, located in the northern part of Chaweng Beach Road, and laid-out in descending terraces as befits the geography of this area.

It’s simple economics. Run a fabulous all-you-can-eat beach BBQ at a sensible price and people will come. The more people you get, the better your barbecue will become. But the opposite is true – less people equals less profit equals less goodies and at higher prices. But not at Nora Beach. They’ve refined the equation.

At one time they used to run totally fab BBQs six nights a week. But, instead of juggling prices or toning down the range, now they run a sumptuous supper twice a week instead.

This makes a lot of sense. This way they maintain their reputation, play the numbers, and still offer a great spread.

And, believe me, BBQ buffets at ‘Nora Beach Resort & Spa’ (to give it the full title) are a fabled feast and a sight to behold. The ‘Nora Group’ is a purely local phenomenon on Samui and consists of four hotels and resorts that span the spectrum from budget to 5-star. Nora Beach was the first of the group’s resorts.

This means that the usual mode of access to the beach is via one of the numerous buggies that regularly ply their way back and forth. Rounding the last twist in the path, you’ll find their signature restaurant, Prasuthon. And you’ll gasp at the Aladdin’s cave that’s suddenly revealed.

The lights are low and golden and sparkle off every shining dish, tray, and pot that’s spaced around the low terraces below.

Here the gems aren’t crocks of gold, but tureens of tuna, heated covers of curries, lobsters, fish, seafood and polished pots of every sort of meat, fish, poultry imaginable, along with salad tables that are laden with dish after dish of greens, nuts, dips, slaws, sauces, vegetables, breads, potatoes (baked, sautéed, fried), rice, herbs and spices.

There are, however, several objections to a Sultan’s Spread such as this. One, is that not everybody can, or wants to, eat for three hours non-stop. Another is that with a family that has children of various ages, the overall charge is prohibitive. I’ve said already that Nora Beach has all of this worked out. So over to Food & Beverage Manager, Khun Jetsadaporn Maneesang, more happily known by his nickname of Khun Frost.

“We’ve been running these beach BBQ buffets for a long time,” he told me, “and we understand what people want. A big

selection of different hot, fresh dishes. A range of accompanying salads, nibbles and sauces. Meat or fish cooked on the spot to their liking. And, above all, the choice to come in and not have the buffet. I know this sounds strange – come here and don’t have the highlight of the night! But maybe a teenager wants burger and fries instead. Someone wants to eat a small veggie selection. Small children eat next to nothing anyway. And so this is what we offer. You can opt to have the BBQ buffet but also select from the à la carte menu too. Children under six eat free anyway, and it’s half-price for those between six and twelve years of age. I think we’re the best. The quality of the food is fabulous and there’s a huge range to pick from. And, best of all, it’s all really sensibly priced.”

But, having shrunk their presence down to just two evenings a week, what’s on offer now? What’s Nora throwing into the wind that might make you want to drift up there at night? As I said there are two evenings of note. The first is every Tuesday. This is entitled ‘Fresh Market Thai’. And it’s just as it sounds. Lots of Thai dishes, but with the difference being that you can watch the chefs sizzling your pad Thai, noodles, tom yam or coconut soup live on the spot to order – then they’ll bring it to your table when it’s ready. Khun Frost describes it as ‘modern Thai’ and extols the several funky non-traditional sauces and preparations available. A highlight here is that if you come at 6:00 pm there’s a free cocktail party plus canapés prior to the main event. And then there’s Saturdays.

This night the theme is ‘East meet West’ and there’s not only a much wider spread, from four different cuts of beef to pork, chicken and seafood, with pastas and several kinds of Japanese offerings (watch out for the amazing flaming tepppanyaki dishes), but there’s the mild and creamy massaman curry from Malaysia, roti breads, pizza, Texan BBQ spare ribs and tenderloin, too. Plus there’s also entertainment in the form of a glamorous ladyboy cabaret show. Oh – and there’s one more thing.

Nora Beach Resort & Spa is located at the top northern end of Chaweng Beach Road. It’s one of the last resorts up there on the strip. But not only are they one of the forerunners when it comes to the BBQ beach buffet, but they’ve got everything else all worked out too. Such as, for example, you might not know where to find them. So they run a mini-van shuttle service between the resort and McDonald’s in Chaweng, opposite Tropical Murphy’s pub. Phone them to find out when and to book your spot on the beach at one of these superlative evenings. Every resort has their ups and downs, but the best are impossible to keep down for long!

Rob De Wet For reservations and further information, telephone 0 7742 9400. www.norabeachresort.com

Enjoy your lunch or spectacular sunset dinner at the open air Pavilion restaurant overlooking the sea and the intimate atmosphere of a small luxury villa resort.

Authentic Thai and international cuisine and wines.

Join us for a relaxed and unforgetable dining experience!

Open daily from 7.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m. (ask for free pick-up service) Santi Beach – Lipanoi Tel: 077-420008 – Fax: 077-420009 e-mail: samui@siamresidence.com www.siamresidence.com

www.siamwininganddining.com 17

It Keeps Getting Better!

Olivio adds to the reasons why it’s such a popular dining venue.

One name keeps popping up when you ask about great Italian food at a beachfront location. And that name is Olivio, located at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Spa. The restaurant’s claim to fame – well one of them – is that it’s still the only Italian beachfront restaurant in Chaweng. But of course, for a restaurant to remain so popular, it can’t rest on its laurels and rely solely on its location. And the resort’s General Manager, Khun Kittirat, and his cheerful assistant, the aptly named, Khun Sunny, know this, which is why they’re constantly coming up with new ways to keep old customers happy and lure new ones in. Khun Kittirat’s jovial manner rubs off on his staff, and the result is a super-friendly team that help create a relaxed dining environment. Add to that a fantastic view of Chaweng Bay and the island of Koh Matlang, and Olivio makes a great lunch or dinner venue.

Olivio is well known for its lunchtime specials, including handmade Italian pastas and Thai noodle dishes, so if you’re after a quick bite, choose from this menu, where all dishes are 150 baht, and are available for lunch only, from 12:00 to 4:00pm. But it’s the new ‘Burger Tower’ that’s got the lunch crowd talking at the moment. ‘Tower’ is the right term to describe this monster of a burger – and it would take a brave man to tackle this beast on his own. This is literally four ‘storeys’ of burger, with each floor having a different burger patty. So we start with a traditional beef patty on the first floor, followed by a tender chicken breast burger on the next. On the third floor, there’s a tasty pork burger, and last but not least, threatening to topple this mighty tower, is a fish burger. The sesame buns are toasted to perfection, and of course, all the regular trimmings are on there too, such as lettuce, tomato, mayo, cheese, pickles and onion. And as if that’s not enough, there’s a side order of French fries. This hearty burger, which can easily feed two grown men, is also available from 12:00 to 4:00 pm, at a very reasonable 550 baht plus VAT – well worth it.

And if you have kids with you, they’ll love the pizza – which comes

18 www.siamwininganddining.com

recommended as some of the best pizza the island has to offer. As much as we’d like to introduce our kids to new and exciting food options, let’s face it – not all kids are willing to try the exotic flavours of Thai cuisine, but pizza is always popular. Add to that a swimming pool right on the beach, and you have a lunchtime winner for families. Guests (even non-hotel residents) are welcome to use the swimming pool while enjoying lunch at Olivio, so make the most of this beachside dining venue and let lunch drift into evening cocktails, while the kids are entertained with the pool and beach.

Aside from the Italian and European menu, there’s a vast selection of authentic Thai dishes too – ideal if some in your party prefer to eat local. Italian desserts are some of the best, and here, the tiramisu is renowned according to Khun Sunny. Khun Kittirat declares that the apple tart with ice-cream is his favourite, and another popular choice is the chocolate molten cake. But making its mark this March, is a decadent seafood barbecue basket for two to share. And being right beside the sea, enjoying seafood just seems right.

A highlight of this seafood sensation is a whole grilled rock lobster, and adding to the wow factor are two giant tiger prawns. But variety is the draw card to this basket, and you’ll also enjoy a grilled sea bass, some New Zealand greenlipped mussels, clams, crab and grilled squid too. Sautéed potatoes and seasonal vegetables accompany the selection of seafood, as do both Thai and Italian sauces. This fantastic spread is only 950 baht pus VAT, and is available for both lunch and dinner.

There’s nothing like a chilled bottle of white wine to go with fresh seafood, and Olivio has a wine promotion that’s too tempting not to add to the table. They’re offering a bottle of Vina Maipo, Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay, from Chile, for 950 baht a bottle. This bright, crisp green wine is fresh, soft, balanced and semi-dry – an ideal companion to your seafood basket. If you’d prefer a red wine, there’s the option of a Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot at the same

price.

Parking in Chaweng can often pose a problem. Luckily, Olivio has its own parking area right next door – or if you’re staying nearby, simply find it by walking along the beach and following your nose to the delicious aromas luring you in. Not to worry if you’re without transport, as the restaurant offers a complimentary transfer service in Chaweng, and also as far as Bophut and Choeng Mon. Just call ahead and book.

So if you’re up for a challenge, you can either tackle the ‘tower of taste’ burger sensation, or for a really special meal, give the seafood basket a try, and top it off with a bottle of wine … or two. With promotions such as these, it’s no wonder Olivio remains so popular with returning guests and locals alike.

Rosanne Turner For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7723 1500. www.baanhaadngam.com

www.siamwininganddining.com 19

Dress for Success Not sure how to dress for dinner on Samui? Here’s a quick guide.

You’re sitting in a beautiful restaurant overlooking the bay, enjoying a delicious meal on a balmy tropical evening. In saunters a couple straight from the beach, with the same idea in mind. He’s wearing shorts and no shirt, and she has on the skimpiest of swimsuits and nothing else. Had this been at your local fine-dining establishment back home, chances are they’d be asked to leave immediately. Here, the embarrassed-looking waiter greets them and shows them to a table. Granted, Thais don’t do confrontation well, but is this dress suitable at the dinner table – even one overlooking the beach? In each country, you’ll find a different set of unwritten rules on what’s acceptable and unacceptable dinner attire. Even within a country you’ll find differences between cities, and generally, city dwellers dress up more than those living by the sea.

Samui has not only a local Thai population, but also an expat community from an array of nations, and add to that tourists from around the world, who come and go in waves. It’s understandable then that there’d be some confusion about what one would wear to dinner – do you go by what the locals wear or do you go by what’s acceptable back home? And one person’s idea of smart is another’s idea of sloppy. Those from warmer climates also tend to dress at a far more casual level than those

from cooler climates. Your average laid-back South African or Australian guy would only wear a necktie to a wedding, funeral or interview, yet most male Londoners wouldn’t be seen out in the evening without a tie, black polished shoes and a suit.

For the ladies, the hotter the territory the less make up seems to be the norm too. Heavy makeup that runs in the heat isn’t flattering, and pantyhose aren’t practical in a tropical climate either. Here, you’re more likely to don a summer dress and sandals, and just dab on some lipstick for an evening meal, whereas in a big European city, an evening dress, pantyhose, heels and full makeup and hairdo would be in order.

We asked a few locals their thoughts on this, and it seems as though they’ve become more relaxed over the years as they’ve settled into island life. A few interesting points came to light during our research, and the first question we often got asked is, ‘What is dinner?’ Is dinner just an evening meal, or is it an occasion. To the British, dinner can also be referred to as ‘tea’, so it all gets rather confusing and contradictory, depending on whom you’re talking to!

The general consensus when speaking to resort managers from the more upmarket

establishments, is that they’d prefer their diners to dress for dinner. Although they’re not expecting them to wear jacket and tie, a button shirt and nice pair of trousers is appreciated for the men, and a smarter than ‘beach look’ dress for the ladies. In saying this, very few hotels actually have a written dress code as such. As one local hotel manager says, “It depends very much on the restaurant, but swimwear in any restaurant is a no-no. Ties and jacket are not necessary, but a long trousers and a shirt are appreciated in the nicer restaurants.”

restaurant or hotel, but we really dislike and discourage people coming in half naked to watch the show. We have stopped people or asked people to leave, especially guys without t-shirts. That attire should be kept to the beach!”

Another point that came up frequently was that it depends on the location of the restaurant, and how formal the establishment itself is, with beachside dining tending to be more laid back.

Another Samui local argued that it’s hard to enforce a ‘cover up’ policy when some Western restaurant owners themselves, walk around their establishments shirtless. Yet others argued that during the day it’s fine to wear swimwear at the table in a beachfront restaurant, but not at night.

The more people we asked the more conflicting replies we received. But even the five-star establishments agreed that they’d be fine with a male diner in tailored shorts and a casual linen shirt, and that smart-casual is acceptable.

Most Samuians agreed that if you’re ordering a snack and staying at the pool lounger, it’s quite alright to eat in your swimwear. But the moment you leave the pool and head to the tables, even ones on the sand, then the polite thing to do would be to throw on a shirt or a wrap for the sake of fellow diners. The same applies when walking down the street. Walking on the beach in your swimwear is fine, but the minute you leave the beach, cover up. It’s amazing how many tourists will walk into shops and even temples, wearing only a bikini or speedos. As one cabaret owner stated, “We are not a

It’s good to remember that Thailand is actually quite a conservative nation, and topless on the beach is actually a big no-no. Of course, Thais being non-confrontational people, your average tourist will be completely oblivious to this fact, as no one will tell them it’s just not done here.

The same applies to clothing in public places, and certain outfits are best left to the nightclubs, rather than a family restaurant. Again it became clear that different nationalities have their own opinions on what is acceptable with regards to sheerness of fabric, level of cleavage and shortness of skirt at the dinner table. But,

Thailand puts a strong focus on dressing smart (just think of the ladies in banks and chemists), and they manage to look smart and well-groomed even in the heat. Of course, they understand that tourists can be more laid back, and don’t expect the same from visitors.

In summary: If you’re sitting on the beach or at your resort’s pool, and ordering a snack from a beach vendor or the restaurant, but plan on eating it at your lounger, doing so in your swimwear is fine.

If you leave your sun lounger and head to the restaurant – even if it’s a casual one, do the decent thing and throw on a sarong or a shirt.

If you’re heading somewhere nice for dinner, even if it’s beachside dining, make a little effort.

Ladies wear a nice lightweight dress and sandals, and guys, lose the t-shirt, don a collared shirt and long pants or at least a pair of tailored shorts.

Not too hard now, is it? No one’s asking you to wear jacket and tie, just to respect your fellow diners. Common sense, one would think.

Apparently not!

Rosanne Turner

Iconic Beachfront Restaurant Daily Modern European Asian Cuisine.

Oyster Sunday Brunch from noon - 4 pm.

With breathtaking views and an unrivalled ambiance, RockPool is an unmissable Samui dining attraction. Resting on the rocks just a few metres above the ocean, the RockPool terrace offers an exquisite beach-side dining experience. Chef Christopher's menu is an a la carte journey embracing an exotic tapestry of the freshest ingredients, delicately prepared to enhance each individual flavour.

RockPool is the perfect location for all celebrations, and is equally delightful for a casual, gourmet lunch or a romantic dinner. Sunday Brunch is a long, lazy affair.

RockPool is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

RESERVATIONS: 077 234 500

Email: info@kandaresidences.com www.kandaresidences.com

Located Between Chaweng And Choeng Mon. Location In Thai: 20 www.siamwininganddining.com

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Complimentary one way transfer to or from your resort .

Did you realise that for a couple of hundred years nobody really drank coffee? Well, apart from nomadic Bedouin tribesmen or cowboys, maybe. But, back in the mists of time, the Arabs and the Turks had already been hooked for ages. However, when Europeans began to voyage around the world in the 16th century, we too ‘discovered’ coffee. And thirty years later the coffee craze had spread like wildfire: there were more coffee shops than there were gin houses and taverns.

But, unlike tea, as prices dropped, coffee spread out away from the drawing rooms and into the back streets, attracting a far less-savoury class of customer. So much so in fact, that in England, King Charles II outlawed them, in 1675. Then things quietened down. And it stayed that way right through to the 1990s, when some clever marketing in California turned coffee into a ‘lifestyle event’! It took off like a rocket and, to go with its new image, went into the international skies with a new set of higher prices to match.

Which brings us right away to the subject of this story; Black Canyon Coffee. It’s Thailand’s longest-established chain, going back to 1993, when the first outlet opened in Bangkok with a Wild West cowboy theme. From the start it used a template taken from the style, quality and range of the new American coffees – it brought American-style coffee to the Thai nation, rather than trying to change it to fit local tastes.

But, more to the point, everything was priced at a level the locals could afford.

Khun Anchalee Keeratiwithayanon was already running a successful catering and equipment business in Phuket when she had the first thoughts of opening a branch of Black Canyon – but there was a problem. Franchises are carefully controlled and not easy to come by, and Phuket already had its allocated share. But there were no branches on Samui. Thus, our island’s first Black Canyon shop coincided with the opening, in 2005, of the island’s first superstore, Tesco Lotus in Chaweng. It’s a perfect location next to a busy food court, and open until the store closes at around 9:00 pm. Such was its success that, in 2009, when the island’s second Tesco Lotus opened its doors in Lamai, it came complete with another Black Canyon coffee shop.

The décor of is cheery and bright, with no flashy gimmicks or attempts at pretension. There are comfortable bench seats running along one wall, with the rest of the space interspersed with matching seats and tables for four, accommodating up to 50 people at a time. The staff are well trained, attentive, and notably cheery, and it’s rare not to see service with a smile, if not the occasional happy giggle! But one of the features here are the menus. These are large, and every item comes with a written description and a big, clear photo. Today this is common, but back when Khun Anchalee first opened, this was unique and Black Canyon might probably have been the first place on the island to adopt such a thoughtful presentation.

boot! And check out the warming alco-vibes of the ‘specialities’ – Irish coffee, Rum, and ‘Elle Black Canyon’.

But there are also the spin-offs, the frappes, of which the ‘Black Crunch with Cream’ is superb. And if you want to wave prices about then there are no complaints that most of these come in at just 70 baht for a 10-oz size and not much more for the bigger ones.

Not to be left behind on the trend trail, you’ll also discover a wide selection of other beverages, including tea (Earl Grey, English Breakfast, white tea and jasmine green), plus a range of juices and smoothies – just try the blueberry smoothie; it’ll make your tastebuds dance. And there’s hot and iced chocolate, too, in several variations including a wonderful cranberry chocolate frappe. And, naturally, you’ll find soft drinks of several kinds to round things off.

More Than Just Coffee Check out why Black Canyon is always so popular – and so busy!

But the last (and definitely not the least) part of the picture is the reason why many customers come back again and again: the menu. There’s a huge range of offerings here, ranging from appetisers to full main dishes and with an excellent selection of desserts including sundaes and mocha cookie chips. But the impressive thing is that this isn’t a traditional Thai menu. It’s far more adventurous, but without being silly. If the word ‘fusion’ springs to mind, then it’s used in a gentle and conservative manner that enlivens the dishes without over-stating them.

Such as the beef steak with spaghetti and Issan-style sauce. Or the pasta fusilli with chicken and green curry.

How about fried sesame-crusted fish served with spicy seafood sauce? The menu is laid out in well-organised sections: there’s a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, pastas, steaks, curries and noodle dishes, amongst which, it has to be said, there are also quite a few simple Thai offerings. But, throughout all, there runs a common theme of quite a different sort - the price. Most of these dishes average out at not a lot more than 100 baht or so, with the most expensive (the rib-eye steak) coming in at just 218 baht. There are four affordable ‘set menus’ offering combinations of fare, and even the breakfasts are only pitched at around 120-170 baht.

Black Canyon Coffee now has over 250 branches across Thailand, and has expanded into Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, Burma, United Arab Emirates, Cambodia, Laos and the Philippines. But the best thing of all?

Here, on our little island, we’re due to see another shop open at the end of March, in Chaweng’s new Central Festival Department Store. And then that’ll make three places where you can get ‘more than just coffee’!

Rob De Wet For more information, visit www.blackcanyoncoffee.com.

The image I have painted so far shows a popular bright and cheery coffee shop. But this is just part of the picture. Yes, of course, there are the coffees. They come in an unpretentious range that includes espresso, mocha and latte – but these are served in chunky cups and not the usual thimble-sized offerings. Plus, as befits a tropical climate, there’s a whole range of iced coffees too, one of the more appealing being the ice-cream ‘gelato espresso’, and then the impressive ‘Iced Mexican Coffee’ that’s presented in a glass cowboy

www.siamwininganddining.com

21

Snack Time

The Thai version of fast food is anything but junk!

So many things are different over here. At first, it seems like just one more sunshine holiday.

Then you begin to notice the prices – everything’s just so much cheaper. Back home even that little Thai restaurant on your high street will cost you four-times more. Plus the fact that everything’s done out in the open here.

The weather is so mild (okay – hot, then!) that houses have open fronts and restaurants have no walls. There are many other things to discover; but let’s stay with the idea of that last one . . .

The approach to meals and eating is quite different here, too, as is the more-healthy general Thai diet. For a start, Thais usually eat in a group. Well, yes, that’s the same idea as our family sit-down meals. But we don’t usually also do the equivalent of a small meal every few hours or so! Away from their family, a Thai person will get the urge for a top-up – a substantial snack of some kind – several times (often more) during a working day. And this goes hand-in-hand with the way the little restaurants, stalls and food markets operate.

For a start, very few of these local eateries offer alcohol; the licences needed are an unnecessary

extra expense. Thus they don’t rely on an income from this. And this means you’ll discover two excellent ‘norms’ that you won’t find back home. First, it’s completely acceptable to bring-in alcohol from outside . . . as long as your restaurant doesn’t sell it, that is (but if they do, then to do this is the height of rudeness and bad manners). And the second is that every place expects a high percentage of their customers to come in only for a take-away. In Europe this is frowned upon as being somehow ‘down market’, plus the restaurant won’t get any profits from drinks sales, or tips. But then, Thai people don’t often tip anyway (and are constantly puzzled about this ‘free money’ the ‘farangs’ like to give away). Also, in Europe, workers can’t pop out for a takeaway mini-meal whenever they get peckish – yet more cultural differences!

Over the years, I’ve met more than a few visitors to the island who’ve been wary about eating ‘street food’. It’s the same kind of preoccupation that some people get about being bitten by cobras or getting malaria. Like ‘avoid ice in your drinks’ or ‘tap water is bad for you’. At least the last one is right, but the others are, at best, urban legends, and at worst better

left to the gossipers who still mistrust all things foreign. The local Thai population hasn’t evolved a special genetic constitution that somehow renders them immune to botulism or amoebic dysentery! And, believe me; they are at least as fussy as you are when it comes to eating wholesome food that’s been cleanly and carefully prepared.

In every major area of the island you’ll come across one or more spots where everything so far outlined all comes together in one place.

You’re out in the open, there’s a huge choice of different food stalls, it’s constantly busy, the offerings vary from beer and spirits to sweet pancakes and, in the evenings, entire families will all turn up to eat together. These cultural food phenomena are known as ‘food-markets’; the most popular, and best located, of which is in Nathon.

It’s in the huge car park between the two ferry piers, right on the edge of the sea, and it only happens in the evening, just as the sun begins to sink into the sea, right in front of you. There must be a hundred stalls here (although a number of them are selling similar items) with nests of garden-style tables and chairs grouped

in the centre between them. The best thing about this carefree style of eating-out is that, even though you might be sitting at a table which quite obviously belongs to the nearby BBQ chicken stall, the owner will be quite happy for you to trot off and buy other goodies elsewhere, then come back to sit and eat – this being in addition to having some of what he’s offering, naturally. And if you want a beer, he’ll probably send off one of his staff to collect it for you.

But that’s only part of the story. As you go out and about, keep an eye open for the travelling food vendors with their motorbikes and sidecarts. They ply a steady trade, moving around the houses, shops and business, on the main roads and up the side streets, catering exclusively (with anything from iced cut fruit to steel pots of curries and soups) to those hundreds of hungry folks in dire need of just one more quick bowl of nibbles!

And then there are the ubiquitous noodle stalls, the story of which would warrant (and, indeed, has already had) an entire article all to themselves. This is yet another delightful cultural quirk: as evening begins to fall and the

banks and stores close up for the day, so trailers and trucks appear and pitch their culinary camps on forecourts and in car parks everywhere – but always on a main road, in view of passing traffic. Indeed, this is such a popular genre that many stalls have found permanent locations. Plastic stools and tables appear and gas burners are lit. Not so long ago you just had to point and smile and hope for the best, But nowadays just about every such stall has someone who can speak English. Go for thick or thin noodles - the white or yellow.

Ask for chicken, pork, sometimes beef. And insist on the complimentary plate of raw, green vegetables that all the Thais expect. Then sit back and marvel at the speed and expertise with which the cook puts everything together for each new customer.

Fast food? Well the American chains are growing in popularity but, in terms of nourishment and flavour, there’s nothing to compare with the way it’s always been, here in Thailand – whenever and wherever anyone fancies a snack!

Rob De Wet

Noodle Specialties from all over ASIA

A truly remarkable experience for all the senses Location: Ban Taling Ngam Reservation: 0 7742 8200 E-mail: reservation@thesunsetbeachresort.com www.thesunsetbeachresort.com

22 www.siamwininganddining.com

at Akyra Chura Resort open noon - 22.00h reservation 077 915 100 www.theakyra.com www.facebook.com/Theakra

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort presents a wide range of restaurants and bars featuring a variety of cuisines to suit all tastes.

Premium cocktails and selected wines are also available in each outlet.

STAR

A stunning rooftop bar where you can sip our signature cocktails and enjoy some snacks while watching the sunset or gazing at the stars above.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs.

The Height

Sun Deck

Wine and Cigar Lounge

Oering an extensive menu of delightful Thai cuisine, the restaurant has both air-conditioned and open air seating options, all with stunning views of the surrounding sea.

Open: 17.00-22.30hrs.

Exclusive dining on the deck with breathtaking views.Enjoy International delights in a romantic setting with your loved one. Please reserve in advance.

Refreshments, cocktails and snacks with a selection of premium wines and cigars to enjoy the breathtaking view.

Open:18.00-22.30hrs.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort 208/66 Moo4, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84310 Thailand Tel: (+66) 077 960 555 Fax: (+66) 077 960 055 www. Silavadeeresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com

23

Knowing your Onions

Or, in this case, knowing your sweet potatoes.

It’s most certainly not an onion. And it’s not even a potato. Despite its name, the sweet potato is not even related to the potato. It’s a root, not a tuber, and belongs to the morning-glory family. Many parts of the plant are edible, including the leaves, roots and vines, and varieties exist with a wide range of skin and flesh colour, from white to yellow-orange and deep purple.

Sweet potato is one of the world’s most important food crops in terms of human consumption, particularly in Sub-Saharan Africa, parts of Asia, and the Pacific Islands. First domesticated more than 5,000 years ago in Latin America, it’s grown in more developing countries than any other root crop. The plant grows in marginal conditions, and requires little labour or chemical fertilizers. It also provides inexpensive, high-protein fodder for animals. As sweet potato is a warm-weather vegetable that requires a long frost-free growing season, it’s an ideal crop for the tropics.

Sweet potatoes have a creamy texture and a sweet-spicy flavour that makes them ideal for savoury dishes. Two types are available, one

with bright orange flesh, and the other with pale cream flesh. They’re sometimes referred to as ‘yams’ in the USA – although strictly speaking, that’s a different vegetable, but they’re often mistakenly grouped together.

These root vegetables are rich in fibre, vitamins A, C and B6, and are an excellent source of carbohydrates. The orange-fleshed variety is also rich in beta-carotene. Sweet potatoes are traditionally baked, roasted or mashed, but they can also be added to risotto, pasta or curry. For their ornamental value, with pretty purple and white flowers and heart shaped leaves, sweet potatoes are often grown as ground cover or in hanging baskets, in planters and even in bottles of water in the kitchen.

Here in Thailand, the light sweet potato is called ‘manthet si kaaw’ and the purple one called ‘manthet si muang’. The pale sweet potato has a thin, light yellow skin and a pale yellow flesh.

Its flavour is not sweet and, when cooked, its flesh is dry and crumbly, much like a white baking potato. The darker variety has a thicker, dark orange skin and a vivid orange, sweet flesh that is much moister when cooked.

Around the world, you’ll find seven major varieties of sweet potatoes: Jersey, Kotobuki (Japanese), Okinawan (Purple), Papa Doc, Beauregard, Garnet, Jewel, and Covington. The last four varieties are regionally (yet erroneously) called yams in the USA. Sweet potatoes are also known as kumara in New Zealand, batatas or boniatos in South America, umala by Samoans, and uala by native Hawaiians. Kumara was a staple of the Maori people in New Zealand prior to the arrival of Europeans, and is popular throughout the Pacific region.

Sweet potatoes became popular very early in the islands of the Pacific Ocean, spreading from Polynesia to Japan and the Philippines. One reason for their popularity is that they were a reliable crop, even when others failed because of typhoon flooding. They’re featured in many favourite dishes in Japan, Taiwan, the Philippines, and other island nations. Indonesia, Vietnam, India, and some other Asian countries are also large sweet potato growers and exporters. However, Thailand only grows enough for local consumption.

You’ll find sweet potatoes in the markets year-round, and when buying, select firm roots, with no holes from insects, and handle carefully to prevent bruising. Sometimes they’re round, oval or even misshapen, but the shape isn’t as important.

Store your sweet potatoes in a dry, cool bin, but do not refrigerate, as this will result in a hard core and an undesirable taste when cooked.

However, cooked sweet potato keeps well in the fridge, and most sweet potato dishes freeze well.

Like regular potatoes, sweet potatoes are always eaten cooked, but their sweet flavour makes them more versatile. They can be used in a wide variety of dishes, both savoury and sweet, and pair well with cinnamon, honey, lime, ginger, coconut and nutmeg. Enjoy them in desserts, breads and muffins, puddings and custards, casseroles, stews or croquettes. And of course, most Americans will not feel that their Thanksgiving spread is complete without a sweet potato pie.

slightly soft. If boiled, drain immediately. Sweet potatoes can be fried like regular potatoes to produce chips, or sliced and baked in the oven like hot potato chips or wedges. A particularly easy yet delicious way to cook them, is to simply rub with butter or olive oil and coarse salt, wrap in tin foil, and place on the hot coals of the barbecue (or in the oven) until soft when pierced. To serve, remove from the foil, cut a cross on the top, and add a big dollop of butter.

Delicious!

It doesn’t matter how you like your sweet potato prepared, but knowing that this tasty root vegetable is as nutritious as it is delicious, makes all the more reason to enjoy it.

Rosanne Turner

To prepare sweet potato, wash well to remove any sand, and then sauté, bake or boil until

Authentic Thai Cuisine California Cuisine Succulent BBQ Seafood 24 www.siamwininganddining.com

Kitchen

King Executive Chef, Bernhard Koll, heads up the kitchen at the newly renovated Anantara Bophut Resort.

Ask Chef Bernhard what he likes most about working at Anantara Bophut, and is answer is hardly a surprise. “The location!” he says, looking from the open-air restaurant where we’re sitting, and gesturing across the pool and garden and over to the beach and the bay beyond. There’s no doubt that the Full Moon Restaurant, part of the newly renovated resort, boasts one of the best locations on the island, and every time Chef Bernhard visits the diners to chat and ask how they’re enjoying their meal, he has the privilege of that view and the beautiful setting.

But of course, as great as the view is, a chef needs to spend some time in the kitchen, and this is where Bernhard excels.

He started his kitchen career with training at the Professional School for Cooks in Munich, Germany. Early on in his career, Bernhard was employed in top hotels, including the Mandarin Oriental group – first at Elbow Beach, Bermuda, and then at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Bangkok. He worked there from 2003 until 2007, first as sous chef, and then as executive sous chef, for this busy hotel’s four restaurants as well as several high-profile functions.

One such function that is permanently etched into Bernhard’s memory as one of the best experiences of his career, was

being part of the team that catered for The King of Thailand’s 60th anniversary celebration. This function was host to royalty and heads of state from around the world – a great honour for any chef. During his stint at the Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok, Bernhard also met a chef that he greatly admires and who has been an inspiration to him over the years – Thomas Keller. The hotel hosted a promotion in its French restaurant, the Normandie, with three-star Michelin chefs such as Keller, the only American chef to hold multiple three-star listings in the Michelin Guide, and Bernhard was involved in the production of this prestigious event.

After four years in Bangkok, Bernhard decided to leave the city and headed to Samui to oversee the opening of the Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa, putting everything he’d learnt into practice. He was in charge of the entire setup, from the design and layout of the kitchen and hiring of staff, to menu conceptualizing and staff training, Bernhard put it all in place, and was at the helm of the kitchen for two years, from 2007 to 2009.

When Bernhard once again felt like a new challenge, he started with the Anantara Group, his first post being as Executive Chef at the Anantara Sikao Beach Resort & Spa,

Trang, where he stayed until 2013, before heading back to Samui to his current location – the beautiful Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa. Being in charge of all kitchen and F&B operations, Bernard is pleased with his team, who he’s trained well!

But as long as the hours are for a chef, he has to leave the kitchen sometimes. And this is when Bernhard finds his inspiration. Whether it’s enjoying the other fine-dining restaurants on the island, scouring the markets for interesting fresh ingredients or exploring the island with his wife, his senses are always open to new ideas. Bernhard enjoys keeping up with the latest cooking trends, but adapting them to his own style. He explains that fusion food is losing popularity, and there seems to be a drift back towards basics and traditional recipes, with a strong emphasis on good ingredients well prepared, rather than weird and wacky combinations. He particularly enjoys using a barbecue to prepare food, loving the smokiness that this form of cooking adds to the dish. It’s also a healthy way of cooking, and it’s not limited to meat – Bernhard loves preparing grilled vegetables and braising greens as a lighter accompaniment than starch to heavy meat dishes. He also likes working with leaves and young, fresh greens and combining them with

herbs, and at Full Moon, there’s a strong focus on tableside cooking – think crispy Caesar salads tossed at your table. And as with many other chefs, he loves the earthy flavour of truffles, and he’s also partial to preparing Italian cuisine.

Every chef has somebody that they dream of one day, cooking for. Bernhard is lucky enough to have cooked for his dream customer. But that was part of a big team, and if he could prepare a meal for any person in the world, Bernhard would love to do so again for the People’s King. When asked why, he goes on to explain that he respects HRH as he has a good heart and is always there for his people. When he was involved in the 60th anniversary meal, a lot of research was done into what food HRH, The King, enjoys – and beef is one of his favourite meals. So a well-prepared steak from the grill would be on the menu… and Bernhard drifts off as he thinks about what else he’d add to the royal feast – should he ever have the chance…

Rosanne Turner For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 8300-9. www.samui.anantara.com

www.siamwininganddining.com

25

Classy or Trashy?

Chardonnay is back… and unfortunately, so is Bridget Jones.

After years in the doldrums, Chardonnay is in favour again with critics and consumers alike. Indeed, it was revealed last year that the much-loved Richard Briers had left £250 in his will for Peter Egan, his co-star in the British TV sitcom Ever Decreasing Circles, ‘to spend on Chardonnay’. But it hasn’t been an easy ride for the Chardonnay grape. Its heyday was in the 90s, thanks to successful marketing and the increasing availability and popularity of wine by the glass in bars and pubs. The Chardonnay grape is so easy to grow in many climates, that it was produced in huge volumes. And in some cases, the quality suffered. So in many ways, Chardonnay was simply a victim of its own success. It had the dubious distinction of being the favourite tipple of the fictional comic character Bridget Jones. Then there was the humiliation caused by a shady character called Chardonnay, featured in the trashy television series Footballers’ Wives! Not surprisingly, eventually the wine became associated with the mantra ‘ABC,’ which in case you don’t know is, “Anything But Chardonnay”. Those of us in the trade, were quietly amused by diners in our restaurants at the time, who snobbishly insisted they were ‘ABC,’ then ordered a Chablis or Meursault, both of which are made with Chardonnay grapes!

Thankfully we live in more enlightened times, and at last, Chardonnay is justifiably winning back the respect of the wine consumer. British supermarkets found their Chardonnay sales rose by 16 % in 2013. And the US wine market is also reporting major sales increases. This is could be partly down to changes in the way Chardonnay is produced. Modern versions are aged in stainless steel tanks, not oak barrels, and are crisp and refreshing, in tune with the recent preference for Sauvignon Blanc. Personally, I am very pleased for the growers of great Chardonnays that it’s back in vogue. The good ones never deserved to go out of fashion, as anyone who has a taste for top white Burgundy or premium New World Chardonnays will know, it’s a spectacularly food friendly wine. And particularly so when it comes to fish and seafood. I always thought that saying you're bored with Chardonnay is a bit like saying you’re bored with chicken or bread. There’s good and bad chicken, fabulous bread and truly awful bread. But you don’t reject it outright because of the bad stuff.

I love the new Australian Chardonnays. They still shine through with Aussie sunlight, but they glitter in a way the old ones did not. If you taste them in the morning, you want to drink them for breakfast (and I promise I do not feel this way about many wines). It’s all about where the grapes come from, and a move towards cooler climate vineyards. The grapes in the Australian Chardonnays I want to drink are likely to have come from Margaret River on the west coast, Tasmania, or Adelaide Hills in the South.

One important aspect to remember about Chardonnay, when pairing with food, is that it’s not just one wine. Getting the best out of a Chardonnay depends on its style and where it’s made. Whether or not it’s oaked, and how mature it is when you drink it. Here’s some food pairing suggestions for the three different styles.

Young, un-oaked, cool climate Chardonnay.

Such as: the classic and most austere example of this is Chablis, but other young white Burgundies would fall into this category.

Good matches: they’re perfect with light and delicate food, like gently cooked shellfish, steamed or grilled fish, fish pâtés, chicken and light pasta or risotto dishes. They also go well with creamy vegetable soups. Finer, more intense examples such as Puligny-Montrachet can take on sushi and sashimi, or delicately spiced fish or salads. Chablis is particularly good with oysters.

Fruitier, un-oaked or lightly oaked Chardonnays.

Such as: Chardonnays from slightly warmer areas and made in a more contemporary style - smooth, sometimes buttery with melon and peach flavours.

Examples would be inexpensive Chardonnays from the south of France, Chile, New Zealand and South Africa.

Good matches: slightly richer dishes than those listed above, but ones where a degree of freshness in the wine is still welcome. Fish pie and fish cakes, any simple salmon preparations (poached or with a buttery sauce), lobster, chicken, pork or pasta in a creamy sauce, ham or cheese-based salads such as Caesar or chicken salads that include fruits like peach or mango, and mild Indian style curries with buttery sauces.

Full bodied, oak-aged Chardonnays.

Such as: barrel-fermented, barrel-aged or ‘reserve’ Chardonnays, particularly top end Australian, New Zealand and Californian.

Good matches: again similar dishes to above, but can take an extra degree of richness. Sumptuous dishes like eggs Benedict, or even a steak Béarnaise, fine rich fish such as turbot, grilled veal chops, vegetables like red peppers, corn, butternut squash and pumpkin, and Cheddar cheese dishes. You can even drink a rich Chardonnay with seared foie gras.

What Chardonnay is not so good with.

Smoked fish and meats, light fresh cheeses such as goat or sheep’s cheeses, which are better with Sauvignon Blanc, or an aged red, respectively. Seared salmon or tuna, which are better with a light red, like Pinot Noir. Tomato-based dishes, which are better with dry Italian whites or reds. Chinese food is better with German Riesling. And unfortunately, Chardonnay is not good with pungent Thai flavours, any much sweeter fuller-bodied well-chilled white or rosé wine will match better.

Peter James

26 www.siamwininganddining.com

Serving an exciting variety of Thai, Italian and seafood from our open, show kitchen with genuine pizza oven.

Choose from open air seating on the first floor with ocean view or air-conditioned seating on the ground floor.

Live music every night.

Open daily from 5 pm till 11 pm Located on Lamai Beach Road opposite Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort Reservation: 077 424 420 www.siamwininganddining.com 27

Monday - Cowboy Steak Night Assorted BBQ Meat Buffet Entertainment: Cabaret Show and The Barge Band Tuesday, Friday and Saturday Lobster Basket Set: 3,300 for 2 persons Seafood Basket Set: 2,300 for 2 persons Inclusive of Salad, Soup and Side dishes Entertainment: Duo Band Wednesday - Hawaiian Seafood Night Variety of Fresh Seafood & BBQ Meat Buffet Entertainment: Polynesian Dance and The Barge Band Sunday Chef Creation Set Dinner and A La Carte Menu

No visit to Samui is complete until you have dined at The Barge

Rice Barge Authentic Thai Cuisine

Fine Beach & Hillside Dining at Samui's Newest Venue Quality Thai, Seafood & International Dishes The Ultimate Samui Dining Experience!

The Barge Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: thebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North

It’s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & Spa Tuesday Night - Local Samui buffet with complimentary management cocktails and snacks from 6.00 pm to 7.00 pm.

Enjoy fresh barbecued seafood plus a variety of special dishes created by our culinary team.

Price THB 990 net per person.

Saturday Night - East meets West with cabaret show. Enjoy the finest East meets West buffet.

Price THB 1,200 net per person. Or THB 1,550 net per person including half bottle of wine.

Daily Cooking Class & Fruit Carving Class Learn to cook 3 Thai dishes Fruit Carving Course Inclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate Advance reservation required Daily Happy Hour Beverage Special Offer 50% off (Except wine & liquor by the bottle) At Pool Bar 1-2 pm., Lobby Lounge 6-7 pm. & 9-11 pm.

Private Romantic Dinner Only you and your loved one dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress Available daily. Advance reservation required

For further information please telephone 0 7742 9400 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com

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