October 2017

SAMUI An underground tunnel telling the story of Poppies and leading you to Samui’s most established restaurant

www.siamwininganddining.com

FREE COPY

OCTOBER 2017

Monday & Saturday: Thai Buffet & Beach BBQ THB 900 Net Thursday: International Buffet THB 900 Net Sareeraya Villas & Suites

Call + 66 (0) 77 914 333 www.sareeraya.com

Dishes that Delight Eclectic fare in friendly restaurants island-wide.

When it comes to travel, it pays to be curious. And that especially applies to eating. Heading through Samui, you'll find an amazing number of places to eat, and there's an enormous variety when it comes to the food they're serving. There's everything from the most unassuming stalls selling grab-and-go lunches, all the way up to temples of fine dining offering banquets. And they cover all budgets, so whether you're splurging or saving it’s no problem.

And just as good, there’s an entire gamut of cuisines from round the world on offer: Italian, French, Japanese, Indian and all manner of fusion foods, too.

Thai fare naturally predominates, and you can find dishes from all over the country when you're on Samui. Whether you're brand new to Thai cuisine or you’ve been in love with it for years, you're in for some wonderful treats. Ask your waiter or waitress to tone down the spice level if you're worried about the fieriness. Similarly feel free to make any other requests known – if there’s one thing about staff who work in restaurants here, it’s that they're open to their guests’ wishes.

With a myriad of friendly restaurants, you'll be sure to enjoy exploring the delights that Samui has to offer. Bon appétit!

2017 "Delicious Destinations" Enjoy outstanding Thai and European cuisine from our highly experienced, award winning chef beside the golden sands of Chaweng beach.

Perfect for any occasion whether it be dinner with friends or family, or specially set up romantic dinner for two.

At Banana Fan Sea Resort

Chaweng Beach Road Tel: 0 7741 3483-6

E-mail: info@bananafansea.com

www.bananafansea.com

SAMUI

SAMUI An underground tunnel telling the story of Poppies and leading you to Samui’s most established restaurant

www.siamwininganddining.com

FREE COPY

OCTOBER 2017

Monday & Saturday: Thai Buffet & Beach BBQ THB 900 Net Thursday: International Buffet THB 900 Net Sareeraya Villas & Suites

Call + 66 (0) 77 914 333 www.sareeraya.com

Dishes that Delight Eclectic fare in friendly restaurants island-wide.

When it comes to travel, it pays to be curious. And that especially applies to eating. Heading through Samui, you'll find an amazing number of places to eat, and there's an enormous variety when it comes to the food they're serving. There's everything from the most unassuming stalls selling grab-and-go lunches, all the way up to temples of fine dining offering banquets. And they cover all budgets, so whether you're splurging or saving it’s no problem.

And just as good, there’s an entire gamut of cuisines from round the world on offer: Italian, French, Japanese, Indian and all manner of fusion foods, too.

Thai fare naturally predominates, and you can find dishes from all over the country when you're on Samui. Whether you're brand new to Thai cuisine or you’ve been in love with it for years, you're in for some wonderful treats. Ask your waiter or waitress to tone down the spice level if you're worried about the fieriness. Similarly feel free to make any other requests known – if there’s one thing about staff who work in restaurants here, it’s that they're open to their guests’ wishes.

With a myriad of friendly restaurants, you'll be sure to enjoy exploring the delights that Samui has to offer. Bon appétit!

2017 "Delicious Destinations" Enjoy outstanding Thai and European cuisine from our highly experienced, award winning chef beside the golden sands of Chaweng beach.

Perfect for any occasion whether it be dinner with friends or family, or specially set up romantic dinner for two.

At Banana Fan Sea Resort

Chaweng Beach Road Tel: 0 7741 3483-6

E-mail: info@bananafansea.com

www.bananafansea.com

Graeme Malley Editor

Preeda Tuajob (Puy) Graphic Designer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon (Don) Photographer

Seksak Kerdkanno (Klauy) Webmaster

Rob De Wet Feature Writer

Dimitri Waring Feature Writer

Karan Ladd Feature Writer

Nipawan Chuaysagul (Ning) Sales & Marketing Director ning@siammap.com Tel: 0 898 783 891

Henrik Bjørk Managing Director

Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6, Samui Ring Road, Moo 3, Bo Phut, Samui, 84320 Thailand Tel: (66) 0 7742 2201 Fax: (66) 0 7741 3523 email: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission from Siam Map Company Ltd. Whilst every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. c Siam Map Company Ltd. 2017

Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways.

Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com

Please recycle or pass on to a friend.

Zing a Ding-Ding

Wake up, fill up or perk up, at Zing Coffee Shop.

Do you prefer American or Continental style?

Never mind, both breakfasts are served at the stylishly modern yet classy, Zing Coffee Shop, from 7.30 am until midday. So, whether you are an early riser or just can’t quite make it to your hotel breakfast buffet in time, Zing has you covered!

Located at the north end of Chaweng Beach Road, at Centara Grand Beach Resort’s shopping arcade, Zing is owned and operated by the resort, but is totally separate and open to everyone. It’s an ideal spot for a relaxing break

away from the hustle and bustle of the beach road, and you are guaranteed the five-star service and quality of the Centara brand.

Complimentary Wi-Fi means you can catch up with friends and family or even work if you really have to!

altogether lighter breakfast? Muesli, yoghurt and fruit are on offer, and you can adapt anything on the menu, providing something to suit everyone.

Zing provides a calm and tranquil setting to sip a freshly brewed coffee, made with the finest beans from di Manfredi. Delight in a choice of breakfasts, deli sandwiches and salads, snacks, pastries and ice-cream from 7.30 am until 5.30 pm. There is indoor air-conditioned seating if you want to escape the heat of the day, or an outdoor area, great for people watching and immersing yourself in the road scene.

The American breakfast will keep you going for most of the day. It Includes; eggs, cooked any which way, bacon, sausage, tomato, your choice of bread and croissant with butter and jam, seasonal local fruit, juice and coffee or tea. All this for 390 baht means five-star quality and service, but definitely not five-star prices. The Continental just omits the bacon, sausage and eggs, and is yours for 330 baht. Want an

There are nine choices of bread, prepared daily in an in-house bakery, including multi-malt, ciabatta, sesame, and French. Plus three types of heavenly warm and flakily moist croissant - plain, almond and chocolate, and even a selection of in-house local jams including coconut, banana, papaya or mango. The jam is available to buy separately or in perfect gift box combinations.

Fresh local fish and seafood, cooked in authentic Thai way by the owner Supattra.

Great international wines!

Just a few tables in an open Thai sala style restaurant facing a mangrove forest.

Tel. 093 2828 777 Open 6:00 pm, closed Sunday & Monday www.facebook.com/supattrathaidining Seatran Ferry

Big Buddha Market

Airport

2

www.siamwininganddining.com

Let’s talk coffee… expresso, cappuccino, latte, mocha, vanilla and caramel flavourings with a choice of low fat, high fat cow, soy or almond milk as well as that rare commodity on Samui – decaffeinated coffee for those who really must!

And of course, a selection of teas and hot chocolate. Hot drinks not your thing? Don’t worry, peruse the healthy selection of frappes, milkshakes, smoothies and fresh juices, and then tailor your ingredients to suit your mood or tastes.

The barista’s here are trained to Centara’s five-star standarda, and are exceptionally helpful and speak very good English. Head barista, Khun Nit,

even won the title of Champion Barista in Bangkok last year, and hopes to defend her title this year!

For lunch or an afternoon snack, choose from a selection of freshly made, healthy sandwiches, rolls, salads, sushi or maki rolls. The fresh deli lets you choose from a good selection of meat, fish, cheese, vegetables and salad. Choose the type of bread you desire for the sandwiches or rolls and they arrive expertly wrapped. Great for taking away or if eating in, a fantastic way to avoid spilling your filling! Sandwiches are priced at 185

to 200 baht or choose the Sandwich Combo - one sandwich and a fruit shake for 270 baht. Salads are huge and perfectly priced at 180 or 220 baht.

Guaranteed to fill any rumbling tum, whether you choose tuna, Greek, Caesar, niçoise or another.

In need of an energy boost in the afternoon?

Come and chill at Zing and enjoy a coffee and cake or try their special Coffee Combo – any choice of coffee and two croissants for 170 baht.

In a rush, no problem. Order to take away - you can even phone through and pick up when you are ready. Too hot for coffee? Try their in-house

ice-cream. All your favourite flavours; chocolate, mango, coconut and more. Centara also make and package their own brand of ice-cream called Fetz.

All ready for you to take away.

From 4.30 pm there is a very special happy hour!

Buy one, get one free on all take away bakery items, as well as sushi and maki rolls. In need of a tailor-made cake for a special occasion? Speak to the baristas; they can place a special order for you, direct from the Centara bakery. Fallen in love with the flavours of Thai food whilst on holiday?

Curry pastes are available to take away in gift

style packaging; massaman, green, red, yellow, panang as well as herbs and spices for tom yum soup.

Enjoy the quiet ambience, the mellow background music. Savour your fantastic coffee, tea or food and leave with a definite Zing a ding-ding in your step!

Karan Ladd For further information, telephone 0 7723 0500 extension 583.

Welcome to Olivio Italian Cuisine - sit back and enjoy the very best of Italian and Thai food in a relaxing atmosphere.

We’re renowned not just for our great tastes but our beautiful beachside setting too.

Olivio - Beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Villas Chaweng Beach. Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservations, please call : +66 77 332 950-7 Fax : +66 77 332 958 E-mail : booking@baanhaadngam.com www.baanhaadngam.com

www.siamwininganddining.com

3

Thai Recipe Gaeng Hang Lay or Northern Style Pork Curry.

In shadowy old shops up in the north, you'll still find ancient-looking ready-to-use spice mix sachets for gaeng hang lay; they seem to have been there forever. Perhaps they may one day be opened and savoured by archaeologists. The point of all this is that sachets – so popular with other curries – just aren’t necessary when it comes to gaeng hang lay; most people like to make their own. And it turns out to be quite easy.

Perhaps the hard bit is deciding which recipe you should use. There are oodles of different versions of gaeng hang lay, and in the north some cooks will use soy, while others prefer shrimp paste.

Then there’s a popular option about substituting black pepper for the chillies. But here’s a basic recipe that gives you the lowdown on this fantastic dish that you may never have heard of before.

Gaeng hang lay is Indian in origin – you can see this from the choice of spices used – and made its way into Thailand, or Siam as it used to be known, via Burma. The Thais then adopted it and, as with many another dish, adapted it to their own tastes.

It’s a favourite dish in the north of Thailand, though it’s less commonly seen in the south.

Unlike red, green and yellow curries that are so conveniently colour-coded and globally famed, gaeng hang lay is more obscure and a fairly turgid brown. OK, so it’s not good-looking, but it makes up for that in its sublime tastiness. If you like curries with the thickness of massaman curry, then gaeng hang lay is certainly going to appeal with its salty, sweet and sour notes. There are so many tasty components in the sauce that it’d be an achievement to ever get bored with this dish.

And you can even change the type of pork too; if you wish pork shoulder chops can be used instead, while some cooks prefer chicken.

Whatever you do, a golden rule is to make sure you have some fat on the meat, though, as otherwise the dish will probably end up tasting on the dry side.

To really enhance all the flavours, make it a day ahead. But above all, make enough to keep some for another time – it’s absolutely ideal for freezing. The preparation time is very short (under half an hour) making this an ideal recipe if you're a busy mum or dad. The cooking time is a long and languid two hours of simmering, so this gives you plenty of time to get on with other tasks while the pork simply cooks away. If you're making the dish outside Thailand, then you'll need to go to an Asian supermarket for items

such as tamarind concentrate and dried shrimp paste, but they shouldn’t be hard to find.

• 6 garlic cloves, roughly chopped • 2 cm galangal, peeled, chopped • 2 tsp dried shrimp paste

Ingredients (serves six): Instructions: • 1 kg boneless pork belly, with or without rind kept on • 12 small shallots, peeled • 8 cm ginger, peeled and sliced • 2.5 tbsp concentrate of tamarind • 2 tbsp palm sugar • jasmine rice, to serve Spice mix: • • • • • • • •

2 2 1 1 3 4 2 1

tbsp cumin seeds tbsp coriander seeds tbsp fenugreek seeds tbsp black peppercorns tsp whole cloves cinnamon sticks tbsp ground turmeric small nutmeg, grated

First start by preparing the spice mix. Take the cumin, coriander, fenugreek seeds, peppercorns, cloves and cinnamon, and place in a dry frying pan. Heat gently and toast all the ingredients. This will take a couple of minutes only. Turn off the heat if the pan starts to smoke or if the spices burn. Don’t let them get brown. When the mix has cooled, add in turmeric and nutmeg, but don’t reheat. Set aside.

Next, make the curry paste. Start by soaking the chillies in about a quarter litre of hot water for about 15 minutes or longer. Then drain them but keep some of the liquid. Using a mortar, process chillies, lemongrass, shallots, garlic, galangal, shrimp paste and some salt. Now turn into a smooth paste using the chilli water you’ve reserved.

Curry paste: • 12 long red chillies, dried variety only • 6 lemongrass stalks, sliced • 3 big shallots, chopped

Now take a sharp knife and cut the pork into largish cubes. Place these in a bowl and mix in the curry paste. You can do this with your hands, kneading it all the while. After a minute add a

BEACHFRONT DINING & COCKTAILS RockPool at Kanda Residences is a spectacular beachfront restaurant and bar situated just five minutes from Chaweng For reservations or more information call +66 77 234 500 www.rockpoolsamui.com Facebook: rockpool.kohsamui Daily high tea from 12pm and happy hour with buy one get one free on selected drinks from 5pm until 7pm.

4

www.siamwininganddining.com

teaspoon of salt and the spice mix you’ve prepared. Continue kneading for a further minute.

Use a pan with a solid base and add the pork and cook on high heat until it’s lightly browned. This will take under ten minutes, but turn the mixture occasionally. Next add a litre of water and bring to the boil. There should be enough water to cover the meat. Now stir in the shallots and ginger, reduce the heat to very low and simply cook for the next two hours or until the pork is extremely tender. Lastly season the dish with a tablespoon of salt, tamarind and sugar, and it’s ready to serve alongside the jasmine rice. Your curry should have a robust taste, quite tangy but alleviated with an engaging sweetness. Since there’s no coconut milk used, the taste will be very different from the more commonly found Thai curries, untamed yet very moreish. Many people fall in love with gaeng hang lay at first bite.

Dimitri Waring

Street Walking

This takes on a whole new meaning when you relax into the island-style of Samui’s Walking Streets!

Once upon a time, Maenam was a tiny fishing village. Over time it began to spread a little, and sprouted a side street. This ran up to and joined the main dirt road which ran along the north coast (and many years later became part of the ring-road). And then another, smaller track running parallel emerged from the village, making a kind of U-shape with the beach at one end and the main road at the other.

The years passed. Samui acquired a complete concrete road around the island and then an airport. Maenam began to expand, and stone houses were added in amongst the wooden ones. And by the time the new millennium came around, Maenam was a small town in its own right. The main ring-road now formed a crossroads with the original village street, named Soi 4, its status boosted by one of the first sets of traffic lights on the island.

Soi 4 was busy. A few of the older wooden buildings still survived, but now there were far more two-storey houses with shops underneath.

And a great many more small international-style businesses: sports pubs, English, Swiss and German restaurants, a couple of guesthouses and a book shop – all sprinkled in amongst the Thai places selling silver-craft, clothes and

knick-nacks, massage, plus one of the longest established tattoo shops on the island.

And then, one day, two of the restaurants, together with some ‘friends’, set up stalls on the road outside. The friends simply put groundsheets on the pavement and spread used clothes or surplus household stuff on them, like a car boot sale. The next week there were more.

Every Thursday traders were coming in from Chaweng and Lamai. The ever-present food carts which toured the island in the daytime turned up for a piece of the action. And then it all had to stop. Tax-paying businesses complained, the police agreed that it was blocking the road, and it all went away more or less overnight.

Then someone in a local government office must have had a lightbulb moment. Suddenly it all came back again, but now you had to pay a traders’ fee if you wanted a stall. For a while it was mayhem as shop holders and food carts jostled for space with market traders from outside. Then it was quickly organised into set pitches, and the road marked with lots of numbered boxes. The village mayor took it on himself to make long and important speeches every week over the PA system (soon replaced by a live band!), and established restaurants and bars joined the throng selling street side pizzas,

bratwurst in a bun, or Tex-Mex offerings – while tempting the crowds inside with a live performer or discounted drinks. The concept of the ‘walking street’ had arrived.

In Thailand the idea of a ‘food market’ is nothing new – the classic one in Nathon, for example, has been going for over 30 years. But with a walking street we’ve got a normal street closed to traffic for the night, with an edge-to-edge tangle of everything under the sun. There’s hand crafted leather and jade, silk goods, aromatic oils, and handmade soaps, Buddha images, toys and artefacts, sunglasses, shoes, underwear, electronic goods, glass ornaments, utensils made out of coconut wood, bedding, fingernail decorations, electronic goods and MP3 players, and all manner of other things. And then there’s the food.

Some advice for you – don’t eat anything before you head off to a walking street! There’s every kind of food you can imagine, from simple chicken skewers to fried insects, to samples of international cuisine from the resident restaurants. Then there’s Thai chicken balls, shredded pork, noodle soups, curries, fresh crab, mussels, pad Thai, salted and sour pork sausages, chicken and pork sticks for a start; just

about everything that can be fried, boiled or steamed is on offer. And then there are a scattering of diverse cuisines which makes the whole affair truly international, particularly when they’re stemming from established and nearby Indian, Japanese, Italian, French and Mexican restaurants.

Just one teensy word of warning, though. In one of these walking streets you’ll see probably 80% western walkers and 20% Thai. And I’ve been told that sometimes some vendors rely on this fact and use the cheapest and least succulent cuts of meat. Any stall selling crispy-fried chicken or meat skewers needs to be checked – if there are Thai people buying food here, it’s okay. But if not then you might well find yourselves with a snack that looks good on the outside but is full of bone and gristle when you bite into it.

So where can you go? Well, the Maenam Walking Street is every Thursday, and now spreads up into both the two streets with a live band, too, near the Chinese temple. But the one which most people seem to know is the big one at Fisherman’s Village, every Friday. Here the layout is equally energising, with the street side action heading away on both sides of the pier, and with enough space for at least two live groups to be

playing. There’s also a smaller one based around The Wharf on Mondays.

Lamai has been equally fortunate: their walking street runs close to the beachside road – best accessed by heading to where Tesco-Lotus is and taking the beach-road turn that’s just before it, near to the gasoline station. You’ll see their action appearing every Sunday night, in and around Lamai Night Plaza, not far from McDonald’s.

And then there are the people who are trying to jump on the marketing bandwagon and cash-in on this. Really, these are simply ‘night markets’.

They’re not in a street but an enclosed area, and the vitality and interaction between the resident shops and restaurants doesn’t exist: it’s simply a collection of stalls for the night. And you’ll find markets like this in Chaweng, Bangrak and Choeng Mon. There’s even now a ‘walking street’ on a beach somewhere! But in these places you’ll find yourself simply market shopping . . . and not ‘street walking’ at all!

Rob De Wet

Located in the beautiful Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach.

Our experienced chefs proudly present authentic Thai cuisine and Southern Thai dishes.

Fresh seafood is a must with great quality at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the tranquility of the beach, the twinkling stars and the whispering waves along with the beautiful music. A superb dining experience and great memories.

Fisherman’s Village l

Tel. 077 902 888, 077 430 030 l www.kruabophut.com

Free Parking available at the Wharf!! www.siamwininganddining.com 5

Taste the Base!

We bring you another hidden gem; this time it’s Marzano Pizzeria at Malibu Resort in Chaweng.

Chaweng was once dotted with little beach-hut resorts, owned by local families. Now nearly all of them have disappeared, either swallowed up, side by side, to make a much bigger resort, or torn down and restyled. One of a handful that remains is Malibu Koh Samui Resort & Beach Club; although now everything’s been modernised, and there’s all the comforts of home. But what’s really super is the greenery: mixed in and around the charming little bungalows and cottages are some of the biggest trees and bushes on the island – it’s real picture postcard stuff!

The restaurant here, Marzano Pizzeria, is not one you’ll see in tourist brochures, although that fearsome online judge and jury, TripAdvisor, has nothing but glowing praise for it. On the other hand, it’s one of those gems that Samui’s residents, and one or two others in-the-know, have got etched in their minds. It’s a lovely little restaurant, light, bright and airy, and right on the edge of the beach. It has a modestly good selection of quality European dishes, such as burgers, sandwiches and salads. It offers all the favourite Thai dishes that everyone always asks for. But what makes people travel all the way across the island to go there are the pizzas.

Putting it simply, you’re either a pizza aficionado, or you just grab a pizza for a change of dietary direction from one of those chains on the high street. Sad to say, those USA-style pizzas with 30 centimetres of doughy soft base, no matter how addicted you might be, are not the real thing. If you’re reading this and getting annoyed, try this simple test. Buy an American-style pizza base, cook it without any topping, and then eat it.

What do you taste? You’ll end up with your jaws

6 www.siamwininganddining.com

stuck together by tasteless dough. On the other hand, the Neapolitan-style pizza, with its thin and crispy base, as actually has a pleasantly yeasty bouquet with a hint of herbs – people eat it every day in Italy, plain with no topping, with just a sprinkle of olive oil. Just the base, alone, tastes great!

But here’s another little test. Next time you go to your favourite Italian restaurant, order a pizza and see how long it takes. Even real Italian eateries need some time to get the oven up to temperature: it’s too expensive to keep it running full-tilt all the time. But here at Marzano, the oven is running full-time every day, at the full temperature of 400 degrees – there is that much demand. To get a pizza with your choice of toppings takes about six minutes, or a few more if the chef’s already busy!

The pizza dough is prepared and made fresh every day (as is the range of pastas). And the toppings are, as you might expect, extensive.

There are 14 different ‘à la carte’ pizzas for you to choose from. Or, if you wish, you can customise a pizza to your own inclination. And a tip here: check out the mussel toppings (with or without extras); the mussels with white wine, cream sauce or tomato sauce will have your taste buds in such a quiver of ecstasy that, at just 220 baht they’ll be shouting for more.

Another welcome feature is the chef’s chalkboard. This is a sort of menu supplement which gets changed every week or so. And if you’re lucky it might just be featuring the quirky selection of Thai-style pizzas. The seafood tom yam is a fave, as is the green curry chicken. And if you’re feeling adventurous, go for the ‘pad kra

proaw nua’ – chopped beef in a deliciously succulent rich and spicy sauce with basil.

Marzano is a low-pressure high-chill restaurant.

There’s no need to order food (although I challenge you not to!) They have great Italian espresso, a super range of cocktails and wines, and a happy hour that runs from 4:00 pm to 6:00 pm – perfect for sundowners. And this means you’ll be able to enjoy special prices on a whole range of beers, too – how about San Miguel, Heineken or the Japanese Asahi at just 70 baht a bottle! Excellent!

And so to the treasure map. If you’re on the beach, then Malibu and Marzano Pizzeria are just a little way south of the famous Ark Bar. Coming in off the beach road, locate Starbucks at the frontage of the entrance to Central Festival. Just across the road is a tiny lane with an exchange booth on the corner. Turning into this will take you to lots of bamboo cladding and a very modern reception area. Then just follow your nose between the lovely little bungalows and the gigantic trees to the beach.

What your nose will be telling you is that this is the way to a hidden gem of a restaurant that’s not expensive, and with some of the best pizzas anywhere – you can even taste the flavour of their pizza bases in fact; they’re just that good!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7733 2855. www.malibukohsamui.com

www.siamwininganddining.com 7

A Spiny Wonder Sea urchins are greatly prized in many parts of the world.

We’re quick to label jellyfish, sharks and giant octopi as the usual suspects when we’re cataloguing nasty creatures of the deep. But that’s a very short list, and most people never consider the humble sea urchin. It’s disarmingly small but get snorkel-to-spine with one and it certainly looks like a villain. Tread on it and you may have to go to hospital. Anything that’s so covered in needles is to be avoided. Ignore at your peril!

There are some 200 different species of sea urchin. Five sets of tubes act as legs and help them to get around the ocean bed at slow speed.

Sea urchins come in a wide variety of colours, and some manage to live an incredible 200 years (the red sea urchin is the longest living creature on earth), though most have a life span of about 30 years. They can live in waters at depths as low as seven metres, all the way down to the dark depths of almost 1,700 metres.

Despite its body defences, the sea urchin has its share of natural predators. The sea otter is a ferocious devourer of the urchins. The biggest predator, however, lives outside the ocean: mankind. We humans have an abiding love for sea urchin. That love may not be universal, but certain cultures – and they're to be found all round the world – love to eat the roe of the sea urchins. Pollution is also a growing problem, and simply having dirty beaches affects the life of the sea urchins. Keeping shores clean and cutting down on waste helps to protect these creatures.

But back to cuisine. Where in the world can you go to sample them?

In cuisines around the Mediterranean, the sea urchin, paracentrotus lividus, is usually eaten raw, or simply accompanied by lemon. It’s sometimes used in sauces that are poured over pasta, and is also a popular flavour for omelettes, egg dishes, fish soup and soufflés.

Sea urchins have always been popular amongst Native Americans in California, since the Pacific Ocean here yields good quality catches. Divers go down to kelp beds that start at a depth of as little as 25 meters and pick the urchins. The practice became very widespread, and finally the State of California had to introduce diving licences for sea urchin gatherers. And with only 300 licences issued, it’s not easy to simply go out and bring back urchins to the kitchen table.

Concerns about overfishing are rampant, not only because of the domestic market, but also because of the immense demand from Japan.

Japan also imports large quantities from South Korea, and other countries, too – wherever there’s a dependable catch to be had. The waters around Kodiak Island in Alaska are also a good source. Meanwhile on the other side of the world, in New Zealand, Maoris eat sea urchins

8 www.siamwininganddining.com

raw, and they're considered a delicacy, so long as the catch is a quality one; but no-one can count on them being good all the time, and Japan can’t rely on them for its massive market.

Obviously, the solution would be to have sea urchin farms, but this doesn’t work out in practice; the sea urchins don’t breed well in captivity; no farm has yet been able to satisfactorily duplicate ocean currents, needed by the urchins to successfully reproduce. That’s why there’s still a sea urchin diving industry, often very much an ad hoc affair, as it is here in Thailand.

For many people the sea urchins found in Thailand are inedible; you won’t find them on the menu of most restaurants. But some people enjoy them, and in most coastal communities you'll see urchin gatherers scouting along the rocks for the spiny gems. You might spot sea urchins in local markets, and they're sometimes used to make dips.

A Thai-style dish that is quite a rarity, but nonetheless but greatly enjoyed by some, is prawn and sea urchin with rice. The recipe calls for ginger, lemongrass, coriander and limes. It’s also possible to use sea urchins as a kind of alternative to shrimp paste and then to add ingredients such as green mango, chopped coriander, and spiced fish sauce.

If you look hard enough, you'll usually be able to find a restaurant that serves sea urchins. On Samui, if you head south past Lamai you'll come to the fishing village of Ban Hua Thanon. It’s like stepping back in time if you go to the market, and here you'll find sea urchins on sale. And you can eat them at quite a few of the small eateries close by. There’s no artfulness in the preparation, no standing on ceremony. Simply tuck in to raw sea urchins doused with lime and sit back and watch one of Samui’s best-preserved fishing villages going about its business.

Except in Japan, enjoying sea urchins is definitely not going to become a truly fashionable pastime any time soon, and hyped-up trendy restaurants seem loath to even offer them. The small spiny creatures always seem abidingly linked with long-established traditions and seaside communities; they're one of the best-known hunter-gatherer treasures of the deep (and not so deep). Eat them and you'll be enjoying the same kind of food as our ancestors. And perhaps that’s why many people prefer to eat them in the simplest of surroundings. But if you haven’t done so already, try them and you may become an aficionado.

Rob De Wet

A Moveable Feast

Supattra Thai Dining’s unique approach to freshness guarantees you'll be back.

A beautifully traditional teak house, open-sided and with a chic interior is the setting for Supattra Thai Dining. The restaurant seems to have stepped out of a story book; there’s both a wistfulness and an intimacy about the building.

Its terrace looks onto a beautiful curtain of greenery, comprised of nothing but mangrove trees, a delicious beguiling green that sways with the breeze, and provides a perfectly relaxed setting for the couples, friends and families who choose to dine here. The small, intimate restaurant has a very friendly vibe, and you can expect a warm welcome from owners Thomas and Khun Supattra, who along with all the waiting staff, do more than the usual to accommodate your wishes.

This starts even before you give your order, when your waiter comes to your table. And in this case, it’s usually Thomas himself. He’ll bring with him a blackboard on an easel. Here, there’s a list of almost two dozen different dishes, all of which have been carefully chalked up. Thomas explains quickly and efficiently what’s what – especially handy if you're a newcomer to Thai food. But even if you're well versed in eating Thai, it’s good to have him explain the dishes. And that’s because not quite everything’s done in the usual way here.

The restaurant focuses on fish and seafood, though there’s always meat too. Recipes mostly follow long-established traditions, but with some creative takes. The dishes are cooked in ways that need greater attention than usual. Thomas gives you the low-down on them. Khun Supattra, who heads the culinary team, uses methods that guarantee the diner’s pleasure. Many chefs opt for techniques that are convenient and maybe are

required in big restaurants with huge seating capacity, but here a different approach guarantees your delight when it comes to eating.

For example, the blue crab, in southern style curry and betel leaf is prepared so that you don’t have to fiddle about trying to remove the meat from the crab, particularly difficult if there’s sauce involved, too. Many people, according to Thomas, though they love crab, won’t eat it, as it takes so long. Khun Supattra’s method naturally takes a bit more time in the kitchen, but nobody there’s counting the minutes or the extra effort involved. The results speak for themselves. Pure crab meat – a total delight.

Then there's the hor mok, a stir-fry red curry with seafood or chicken, which is served not in the traditional ‘boat’ of banana leaves, but instead in a scooped-out young coconut. This gives it not just extra taste, but it also looks stunning. Thomas says too that the banana leaves don’t really add much to the ensemble – they're a wrapper, after all – whereas the coconut adds an exquisiteness all of its own.

Other procedures that are used, depending on the individual dishes, are to entirely debone certain fish, while others are cut into sections to be cooked and then reassembled. Why? Because everything tastes better this way – the portions cook individually, giving a more rounded taste.

Khun Supattra and Thomas have also noted that often when fish is offered at restaurants, that it’s a plate for two, and only one person wants fish and the other something else. The solution? Easy: here at the restaurant the fish is just for one person.

This makes decisions a lot easier at times.

The main criterion here is using the freshest of foods. What’s great at the market today may be only good tomorrow and mediocre from then on.

Even the tropics have their seasons. This is precisely why there’s no printed menu. The blackboard gets changed every day – not every dish, of course, but the ones that simply need it.

That’s how they chalk up their success at Supattra.

With Thomas’ explanations, you may even end up choosing different dishes altogether and liking them. When he talks to you he gains a sense of what you may or may not like, making him a great judge of pairing food with people. He can also do the more usual pairing – that of dishes with wines. The restaurant stocks both new and old world wines, all at more or less cost price, allowing you to enjoy a much better quality wine than usual for your budget.

Supattra Thai Dining, located in Bangrak, close to Big Buddha, is open from 6:00 pm onwards, daily apart from Sunday. Check out the restaurant’s Facebook page below – you'll find more details on what’s happening. Highly recommended if you're after authentic Thai dining in a beautiful, well-maintained setting.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 932 828 777 or 0 993 637 030.

Facebook.com/SupattraThaiDining

www.siamwininganddining.com 9

Thanks for Turning This Right Side Up! Now that we have your attention, let's take a look at the unique world of Poppies Samui.

10 www.siamwininganddining.com

No mistake about it. Depending on how you look at it, the approach to Poppies Restaurant Samui turns out to be unique. Yes, you could do what guests have done up to now, go through the garden to get to the restaurant, but there’s another way, one that very, very few people – at least up to now – have been aware of. It’s all part and parcel of this seemingly traditional restaurant that contains a few surprises.

But back to that walk to the restaurant. Once you're in the lobby of Poppies resort, you'll see an anonymous, unmarked door that attracts nobody’s attention. You'll be led through here only to find yourself in what seems to be a short corridor with a bookcase at the end. You can browse the books, but they're not really there for reading purposes. The entire bookcase acts as a secret door, and swings back to reveal a lengthy and mysterious underground passage that meanders away into the distance.

Walk down it and you'll soon come to the main kitchen, but you may want to stop and browse the beautiful paintings along the way. They depict the history of Poppies, and the staff who work here. Many have been here since the day Poppies first opened; most have been here well over a decade, and are incredibly dedicated.

Poppies is definitely not your usual restaurant story. At the end of the 80s, the owners bought some land, close to the sea and down a track in the village of Chaweng. It didn’t look much, it had to be said. But then their imaginations took over. In the space of some four years, the tract of land was utterly transformed. Conservatively, it could be called extreme landscape gardening, if you include building an entire hill, which is what they did. Most resort owners would raise their eyebrows at the effort required. Poppies Samui finally opened in 1994, but the time spent was well worth it; the new topography allowed some chalets to be built high above the main lobby, yet

simultaneously they were secluded and very, very private. All the chalets, in fact, face different ways, further boosting privacy, as does the fact that each has its own walkway.

The restaurant, meanwhile, became a roaring success. And all the trolleys bearing food and drink that came from the road to the restaurant did so in utter silence ... and invisibility. The guests never witnessed anything, because everything arrived and departed via a hidden passage, while they enjoyed a green and silent world.

‘The Hidden Passage’ as it’s now officially known is still in use. By day it’s still the major route between the restaurant, the kitchens and the outside world. Virtually every ingredient gets to the restaurant this way. But when evening comes, and you're passing the menu board out on the street, the two hostesses there will invite you to come and take a walk through the passage. It’s

worth it for the sheer adventure, and no, there’s no obligation to eat or drink in the restaurant afterwards. But you will find the chef offering you some free nibbles once you get to the end of the passage.

Should you wish to eat, you most certainly can.

Poppies’ food is acknowledged to be wonderful.

Try one of the ‘kantoke’ menus (four utterly delicious small main courses and dessert are served on a rattan Thai tray). You can choose between the following kantokes: Four Regions, Vegetarian, Royal Thai or Seafood. You might also have a ‘pinto’, two compartments of food, served Thai-style in a duo of wooden containers, the traditional way of carrying food around. Poppies also focuses on the freshest of seafood, and there’s a wide range of Thai and international food of the most sumptuous kind.

their head, and have done so just to please their guests. Creative thinkers in an original way, they've brought all their talents to providing outstanding cuisine that has wowed guests for decades. Whichever way you look at it, Poppies Samui is a resounding success.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information telephone 0 7742 2419. www.poppiessamui.com

Poppies is certainly a one-off experience in many ways; the owners have definitely turned things on

www.siamwininganddining.com 11

Decidedly Drinkable Thai wines are growing in renown, and complement the nation’s great cuisine.

Early morning, and the air is already heating up; soon it will be too hot for most people to work.

There's an urgency about the constant snip-snip of secateurs as the grape-pickers toil up the hillside, filling buckets with masses and masses of grapes.

It’s a typically Southern European scene, straight out of France, Spain or Greece. The only real difference is the harvesting crew, who are chatting in Thai. It’s still a surprise to some people that Thailand has its own wine industry, but what’s extraordinary is that some parts of the nation aren’t as tropical as they might seem. They lean instead towards the Mediterranean. Hence the success of the grape. Possibly these places, famed for their own micro-climates, will begin to produce other Mediterranean crops, but for now, everyone’s content with the fact that the loamy soils here are producing such good quality wines.

A few years ago, to outsiders Thai wines seemed a contradiction in terms. Wouldn’t the sun frazzle the grapes – if they even grew at all? Critics imagined wasteful fields of grapes where only a small percentage were worthy of a place in the pickers’ buckets. And what of the taste? Would it

even be drinkable? People laughed, and didn’t stop till a few blind tastings later, when it emerged that even wine connoisseurs often couldn’t tell the difference between some Thai and European wines. Just as Californian and Australian wines had to muscle through snobbish disregard before they could soar to success, so too did Thai wines.

They're definitely not the produce of mavericks – open a bottle and take a taste, you'll be amazed at the quality.

The Thai wine industry has been in capable hands from its earliest days, over 30 years ago. It began as a royal project, under the auspices of the late King. It was quickly noted that there were areas in the country where soil and climate might permit good quality yields. Experimentation with vines began and, as thought, they really did come through with drinkable wines.

In 1995, Thailand’s very first wine went on sale, and was the first to be exported to both Europe and Japan. It was labelled ‘Chateau de Loei’, the name itself seeming to hearken back to French roots. Since those early days, the industry has

gone from strength to strength. In 2004, the Thai Wine Association was formed, and quickly set standards for wines grown on Thai soil. The focus of the association is on quality; each member signs a charter and has to undergo independent blind testings. In addition, it’s stipulated that third party labs perform very strict checks.

Chateau de Loei isn’t the only name that's well known in the business; Siam Winery is also revered by many. It has garnered many awards for its label, Monsoon Valley, with its grapes grown in the hills around Hua Hin, to the south of Bangkok. Other wine-growers are grouped near the Khao Yai National Park, while one is situated to the east in the Pattaya area. There's an increasing demand for Thai wines, notably in the United Kingdom – it’s the world’s largest importer of Thai wines, due to the fact there are so many Thai restaurants there.

Diners in Thailand often ask waiters and waitresses which wines are best to pair with Thai food. It’s especially hard to answer, since dishes are normally all served at the same time. No

particular wine will go brilliantly with everything that ends up on the table. And that probably explains, in part, the popularity of Thai beers. But when it comes to wines, it’s usually better to choose white, as it will sit well with a wide variety of tastes; red meanwhile can end up as a disappointment, even if the dishes all revolve around red meats. As a rule of thumb, a salty dish replete with fish sauce requires a wine that’s quite acidic. And when it comes to fiery dishes which have plenty of chillies, then a sugary wine is definitely the best choice.

There's no room for any complacency, however.

The Thai wine industry can’t sit back on its laurels; there are still many challenges. One of these is the inescapable fact that even if Thai rosé wines are so good that they might be European, further down the colour scale, Thai reds are not doing nearly so well. This is because the Thai climate, even where it’s at its most Mediterranean isn’t so conducive to red grapes.

being produced and directly threaten the Thai wine industry, even though India started out later than Thailand. The threats here are double; in both quality and quantity. India is also forging ahead thanks to research centres that focus solely on wine, and everything to do with growing grapes, harvesting them and then processing them.

The wine industry in Thailand is helped by the fact that there are so many wine-drinking visitors to the country; this encourages restaurants to stock a greater variety of wines (it wasn’t the case just a couple of decades ago), including of course the ones that are home-grown. The future is certainly assured for Thai wines, though with global competition it may prove to be a difficult one.

Dimitri Waring

Thailand also has its competitors in the region.

For example, in India, good quality wines are

Fine Beachside Dining with Spectacular Sunsets

THE SIAM RESIDENCE B o u t i q u e

R e s o r t

Thai & International cuisine in Lipa Noi / Koh Samui Phone: +66 (0) 77 420 008 | samui@siamresidence.com | www.siamresidence.com

12

www.siamwininganddining.com

Something Special

Silavadee is a name that means dining magic, whatever the occasion!

While you’re here, there’ll be at least one occasion that’s special. It might be St. Valentine’s Day, or an anniversary or even simply that you want to celebrate the last night of a memorable holiday. And you’re surely spoiled for choice – Samui is a gourmet’s paradise, after all. But here at Samui Wining & Dining, we pride ourselves at picking out those little hidden gems; the ones that aren’t trying hard to get much-needed customers, or showy with neon and dancing troupes out on the main road. And this time it’s the turn of Silavadee Pool Spa Resort.

One little surprise (and I’m sure it’s been done on purpose!) is the reception area. It’s actually sitting right at the peak of the hill. And as you walk up to it, it looks quite modest. When you’re in it, though, you’ll realise just how elegantly understated it is – especially as you then look down onto the immense estate of Silavadee, cascading in luxuriant terraces down the hillside to the sea below. It’s all very discreetly tucked away; the group of golf carts sitting alongside reception will give you the clue to that! Hidden below are actually four restaurants.

Although not out on the main road, it’s easy enough to find; it’s right on the Chaweng side of Lamai, not far from the big hill that runs between the two. And anyway, a quick Google will soon map it out for you. There must be something about this serene little bay, as Silavadee shares its rustic access lane with no fewer than two other exalted 5-star names. And, like several other of the top resorts, it just delights in understatement.

Their fine-dining Thai showcase restaurant sits alone, right up at the top of the vista, hence the name ‘The Height’. And then there’s a very subtly-designed block just a bit lower down.

When you head to the excellent ‘Moon’ restaurant, you’ll have no idea about this – it’s all staggered and landscaped so you’d never guess.

Moon is an essay in cool woods: the glare of the outside sunshine melting comfortingly into the air-conditioned space of a large timbered room with a whole wall of glass at two sides.

Above Moon there’s an exclusive open dining terrace, with just four tables, that has the appropriate name of ‘Star’. It’s split-level . . . the raised part has laid-back sofas in the middle, with a bar and a row of stools at the edge looking out to sea. But the actual dining area itself is a couple of steps lower. And each of the four well-separated ‘tables’ are slabs with bench seats (covered with cushions) that are actually sunken into an infinity pool – they’re all set inside and within a long, low pool which runs the length of this terrace. This has to be one of the most spectacular dining spots on the island, especially around sunset. This is the place to go! This place is something special!

Needless to say, there’s an excellent à la carte menu in place. It also goes without saying that it features imported specialities, such as the Australian sirloin and ribeye. Even the lobster that’s brought-in live from Phuket takes some beating. But the Wagyu Tenderloin (MB6, with a choice of seven sauces and 12 sides) just has to be sampled – it’s so delicate it falls off your fork.

Although, if it’s the Wagyu – or the lobster – that takes your fancy, then your special night out is already decided!

Silavadee is running a special feature – it’s only available up under the stars, in the delightful Star.

And it highlights a choice of one of two set-menus for two people. You can go for the ‘Phuket Lobster’, which kicks off with an appetiser of poached king prawns with a salad of ripe mango, rocket, and crispy ham. The following soup is Bouillabaisse (seafood), and the lobster itself is pan fried with onion mushrooms and rich cream cheese, and served with butter rice and lime wedges. Dessert? A wicked chocolate mousse.

Alternatively there’s the succulent Wagyu beef, mentioned above, although this time it’s served with truffle sauce and roasted potatoes. But to start with you’ll savour the pan-fried fois gras with apple wine, followed by wild mushroom crème soup with truffle oil. And, if there’s room, you’ll be forced to languish over the molten

chocolate with vanilla ice-cream and fruits, for dessert.

And, just to add the cream to the cake, so to speak, – even the lower floor of the restaurant ‘block’ will soon be re-vamped into a lovely lounge – the ‘Sun Lounge’, where you can also opt to dine.

The setting at Star is simply sublime, but get there around sunset and maximise the enjoyment with sundowner cocktails. Although you absolutely have to book your place, as there are just four tables and they are much in demand – because Silavadee Pool Spa Resort is something very special indeed!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7796 0555. www.silavadeeresort.com

MUST TRY THAI CUISINE FOR A TRULY AUTHENTIC GASTRONOMIC EXPERIENCE

www.siamwininganddining.com 13

Going Native Joining the locals at Ranong Restaurant 2.

Some restaurants are hard to find, almost camouflaged it would seem, but Ranong Restaurant 2 stands out prominently against its urban background. It has to, as it’s on a busy stretch of the ring-road in Chaweng, and would be all too easy to drive past without seeing it.

But as you're about to draw level with Tesco Lotus, if you're heading towards Bophut, you'll see a very bright yellow, open-sided building.

This is Ranong Restaurant 2, recently refurbished, and again welcoming its many guests. It’s a highly popular place, and most people, once they've eaten here once, will want to come again.

The hours may strike you as unusual. It’s open from 4:00 pm until 3:00 am (and is closed for four days at some point during the month), making this one of the main restaurants to come to if it’s the middle of the night. It’s simple and

convivial, but the food’s excellent. It’s very popular with workers who are finishing shifts at midnight, as well as groups of party-goers who come to fill up on food after an evening of fun.

Plenty of holidaymakers come too, as well as people simply dropping in for take-out. Parking’s no problem late at night, as other shops are all closed and it’s easy to park on the street. Earlier on, there’s Tesco-Lotus just a hundred or so metres up the road, offering free parking space.

When you arrive you'll be given a longish menu which will take a while to browse; it’s filled with favourites. Astonishingly, there are more than a hundred. Some visitors, however, are simply too ravenous to browse the pages, and instead you'll see them staring up at the walls – here there are large photos of over 40 different dishes with names in Thai, English and Chinese. The restaurant specializes in traditional Thai food and

seafood. There’s no international food by the way, but with so much on offer, you're bound to find at least a half dozen dishes of interest.

Portions are incidentally on the large side, so don’t make the mistake of over-ordering. You can always call your waiter or waitress over and order more. Staff speak English and even Chinese, so there's no difficulty with being understood. The menu is clearly written in English, too, and with plenty photos of the food.

Ranong Restaurant 2 is the brainchild of Khun Paisarn Rawangpai, a former chief-engineer turned chef. The restaurant’s named after the town he came from. He moved to Samui to work in the hotel industry, but after a while decided he wanted to open up his own business. He started a restaurant on the lake road near Central Festival, also called Ranong Restaurant. The

second, that we’re featuring here, is run along the same lines, and has been open now for seven years. Word-of-mouth down has kept both restaurants thriving since they opened their doors.

Thanks to local fish markets, there’s a big accent on seafood of all kinds – and you can be sure it’s totally fresh. Specials abound, like the deep fried prawn, or deep fried whole fish in sweet and sour sauce, or the yummy mackerel in garlic and pepper. There are all manner of soups, such as red curry with pork spare ribs, or seafood, or chicken with coconut milk. Then you'll find a whole range of treats such as tom yum goong, Thai omelette with minced prawn or with sweet basil leaves, fried chicken with ginger, crispy pork with oyster sauce and massaman curries.

You'll also find salads, starters and dishes that come from all over the country. Let your waiter

Discover authentic

Indian Cuisine

Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng Center Chaweng Beach Road, opp. Chaweng Buri Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng South at Chaweng Cove Resort Noori India - Central Festival at Chaweng Beach Road Noori India Cooking Center - Chaweng South Soi Colibri, opp. Centara Grand Beach Resort For reservation (English) - 0 867 407 873 or 0 7730 0757 For reservation (Thai) - 0 839 687 912 E-mail: nooriindia_samui@yahoo.com www.nooriindiasamui.com

14 www.siamwininganddining.com

Samui 2012 WINNER

2013 WINNER

2014 WINNER

or waitress know the degree of spiciness you’d like if choosing a hot dish.

Dishes start from 60 baht, and everything on offer is great value. Customers obviously like the prices and they know that they'll leave feeling satisfied. Presentation, you might think would fall by the wayside, but this isn’t true. Many of the dishes come with hand-carved vegetables and everything looks as good as it tastes.

Ranong Restaurant 2 has a great name for dependable, delicious food. The prominently positioned restaurant is a powerhouse when it comes to feeding the hungry through the evening and night – check out the delicious, low-priced dishes in a highly convivial setting.

Dimitri Waring

www.siamwininganddining.com 15

Kitchen Confidential A look at what you can expect at one of the island’s Thai cooking classes.

The big draw on Samui is always going to be the heady combination of sun, sea and sand, but there’s a limit to how much anyone can take. So while on holiday, it’s always good to take a break and do something else. Thousands of people now happily forsake the beaches for a few hours to indulge in a totally different pastime - learning to cook Thai food. There are countless cooking classes to choose from, and it’s a burgeoning mini-industry.

Most of the ingredients that are used come from one or other of the local markets, and depending on what class you choose, you can accompany the chef and learn about the produce. Going to a Thai market is a great thing to do in any case, but going with a chef will make it all the more fun, as well as educational.

Once the shopping’s done, it’s off to the cooking class itself.

Don't expect anything like a normal classroom with a bland view. Many classes take place in eye-catching surroundings. You may find yourself in an outdoor sala overlooking the sea or a patch of beautiful countryside; wonderful surroundings are all part and parcel of life here, learning situations included. It’s almost certain

that the classes won’t take place in a working kitchen. Why not? The set-up would be all wrong; that’s because you need to be grouped around the chef and have your own burner. The long counters with their various stations that you'd typically find in a restaurant kitchen are just too linear for such purposes, and you might even end up taking turns to cook, which is definitely not the point of the exercise. Typically, you'll find a space that is a mix of the best aspects of a kitchen and a classroom. There’ll be a gas burner and a cutting board for each person and everything you need right at hand.

When you arrive, you'll see that everything has already been chopped, sliced and diced and placed in separate containers. This is the grunt work and there’s no need to do it yourself.

However, it’s worth noting just how the vegetables and meat are cut and then separated.

It’s a lot easier if you get in the habit of preparing things upfront, especially when it comes to stir-frying. All Thai chefs do things this way – there's no real alternative as you won’t have time to prepare while you cook; everything has to go in the wok in a quick series of timed intervals. Delay just a few seconds and all your fine intentions will be ruined – welcome to the

dark side of the wok with gluggy, clumpy messes, wilted vegetables and the like. It’s easy to avoid this scenario, and your chef will give you good tips throughout the class.

The class now begins and for the entire time you'll need to pay attention and follow the creative example of the chef. You'll most likely be cooking three dishes – an entire meal, in other words. It could include anything from fish cakes and som tam salad through to a curry such as panang and/or a delicious pad Thai. There are many different combinations. Most cooking classes have a menu, and when you phone to make an enquiry or booking you can ask for a copy to be sent to you. Better still, classes are deliberately kept small and you might even have a one-to-one session with the chef, allowing you to cook exactly what you want.

If you're coming to Samui as a small group, you can book a class just for your group. Don’t forget to bring your camera as you'll have plenty of memorable photos, and not just of the food; classes are fun to attend, and learning to cook in a group is definitely a social occasion. Quite often wedding parties attend cooking classes.

The chef is as much the focus of attention as the

food. He or she isn’t just the teacher but someone who is handing on time-honoured recipes to you; all the dishes being cooked will be old favourites. Your chef will unlock the secrets of just how to make them. Thais tend to learn from each other how to cook, and that’s because it’s all about balancing tastes, salty, sweet, sour and so on, in order to arrive at the best combination. Not something that’s easily learned from books. All this means that you'll be doing quite a bit of tasting and then adjusting.

Fieriness is another variable, certainly the biggest one, and your chef will encourage you to make your dishes to your own tastes.

All this is done in a light-hearted way and for the entire lesson you'll be watching just how the chef does things and copying. There's magic in this – somehow the results are always, always better than simply following, however assiduously, the best of cookery books.

Even if you're not the best of cooks, you'll have created dishes that are every bit as good as what you’d eat in a decent restaurant. The proof of the pudding is in the eating, and once the class finishes, it’s time to eat everything that you've made. The class gathers to savour the dishes and

it’s a satisfying moment – not just because it’s lunchtime but because you've made everything yourself, and the results are awesome!

The class may include a certificate and a chef’s apron or even toque. But these pale into insignificance when compared with the knowledge that you take away with you. Many of the techniques you'll have learned will also be applicable to other Thai dishes, too.

There's also a lot to remember, so classes always give printed recipes so you remember the steps that you took. The best thing is to make the dishes again as soon as you can. Though the printout is there, your memories of the class and how the chef instructed you will grow vague quite quickly. Practice is called for while the subject is still fresh in your mind.

Cooking classes are often referred to as the ultimate in souvenirs. It’s not an object that you're taking home but the knowledge of how to put together an entire Thai meal and cook it to a very sophisticated level. It’ll impress friends and family for years to come.

Dimitri Waring

GENUINE NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

ON CHAWENG BEACH, OPPOSITE CENTRAL FESTIVAL

16 www.siamwininganddining.com

Christmas in October

Not really! But one of the most-delightful boutique resorts around already has it all sorted – Rocky’s down in Lamai!

Rocky’s Boutique Resort simply has to be one of the prettiest resorts anywhere! The whole place is a study in contrasting textures, from the rocks and fabrics everywhere to the gnarled and twisted wooden sculptures that are subtly dotted around. And at night it’s wonderful – huge red Chinese lanterns glow in the trees. Hidden lamps throw pools of light onto the steeply-descending central path, offset with tiny white fairy lights.

And the red theme continues on into the main restaurant, The Dining Room. It’s open on three sides, Thai-style, there’s a rugged rock wall at the far end over which a steady stream of water quietly cascades. And there are three more gigantic lanterns hanging from the ceiling, red candles and glasses on the tables, and red cushions scattered everywhere. Once in a while, though, they’ll mix in a splash of gold with the red – but more of that in a moment!

As well as The Dining Room, on the other side of the path and raised on a higher level, there’s The Bistro. Although serving mainly Thai cuisine with a Royal Thai bias, there’s an absolutely killer selection of tapas available, too. The dining area here has a different feel altogether, featuring an intriguing open show-kitchen. And being poolside, with an inner shaded section together with sunshine tables under big umbrellas. And to top it all off, there’s also a tiny spur of land at the seawards tip of the resort, secluded by the greenery behind, with a couple of very romantic and intimate tables on the rocky edge of the shore.

The point is: Rocky’s is a very attractive place to unwind and enjoy come excellent food. There are dozens of places on Samui that are ‘nice’, but I can’t think of anywhere that’s quite as lovely as here.

The man behind the everyday running, and indeed everything that’s going on at Rocky’s, is Martin Fells. He’s been the general manager here for six years now, and has everything running very smoothly indeed. “Although Rocky’s is very much a fine-dining environment,” he told me, “it’s all informal and very relaxed. We like to think that guests can come here in the evening to enjoy our ‘seven-course Chef’s Degustation Menu’, which comes with the option of paired wines, or simply drop in during the day for coffee, a cocktail or a gourmet snack; there are some super tapas on the menu!”

But one of the things that Martin has planned and organised to indisputable perfection is the seasonal festivities at Christmas and the New Year. But, then, he’s had some practice at this, refining and adjusting the schedule of events each year. And that’s why he’s now able to outline exactly what’s going to be happening at the end of this year – and believe me, Christmas at Rocky’s is one of the best experiences on the island. (The New Year festivities are something else again – but for this issue we’re looking at Christmas!)

On December 24th you can experience perhaps one of the finest Christmas splashes around.

Everything’s decked out in red and gold, and with crisp white skirts on the tables in The Dining Room. There’s a low stage in front of the rocky waterfall at the far end, on which a 5-piece jazz orchestra is fronted by the well-known Trisha Singer – and her voice is as soft as silk.

And the evening is lost in the wonderful 6-course dinner with selected wines.

That leads into the Grilled Butter Fish with Baby Spinach, and Roasted Cherry Tomatoes. And then after a Blood Orange Sorbet, the signature dish of Beef Rossini, with Seared Alan Francois Foi Gras, Fillet Mignon with wilted Baby Spinach and Taragon-glazed Carrots with Madeira Sauce. And, to round it off, an Asiette of Rocky Christmas Desserts, followed by tea or coffee and Petit Fours.

And then on Christmas day there’s the famed Carvery Dinner, with starters, soups, a carvery of roast chicken, pork and beef, a vegetable station and a selection of sauces and desserts. This in itself is superb: a leisurely drifting back and forth between the buffet items, relaxing, eating, drinking and enjoying. Also worth a mention: the cost of this is only 980 baht ++.

Two final tips: first of all book this now! It’s hugely popular and already being subscribed to.

Second: turn up at around 5:00 pm; there’s an extended happy hour running from 5:00 pm to 7:00 pm, with 2-for-1 on selected cocktails, spirits and buckets of beer. Sit, sip, enjoy the sunset – and remember you read about Christmas in October!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7723 3020. www.rockyresort.com

Following the Amuse Bouche there’s Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with Tian of Crab Meat and Garden Tarragon with White Truffle Oil.

Beachside Dining at its Best

餐厅-歡迎中國貴賓

Romantic Dinner I Seafood Basket with Lobster For reservations, please call 077 230 222 www.siamwininganddining.com 17

See You There!

Dining in the Dark Samui offers a new, fun concept along with a secret menu and a few surprises.

Get ready to jettison your usual eating habits when it comes to one of the island’s newest restaurants. Dining in the Dark Samui is definitely not a typical place to eat. It lacks views of the sea, hills or anything at all – in fact it has no views of any kind. It’s curtained off, and inside there are no windows or even the faintest source of light.

Dining in the Dark lives up to its title, utterly – you eat here in total darkness, having a feast, but one that you can only taste and never see.

The restaurant, just opened in Bophut, is likely to have no competition in this particular niche in the near, or even distant, future. There are still very, very few places in the world offering this kind of experience; it definitely doesn’t belong in the crowd-pleaser category.

Owners Helen and Tim Keates set it up after dining in like-themed restaurants; they both loved the idea. It was exciting and fun; there was

First of all you'll be welcomed at the restaurant doors and ushered into an elegant and minimalist bar, where you're welcome to have a drink – there's pretty much everything on offer here, from cocktails to beer to wines. You'll also have a very brief explanation of what’s going to happen.

there to be sudden sources of light that disturb other diners, nor do they want people to lose their possessions. Your guide will make sure you're comfortably seated, and then will start serving the courses. Delicious as everything may be, it can be hard to nail down what the ingredients are. The dinner by the way, is basically western style, but there are some occasional twists. It’s left you to work out what you're eating – this is all part of the fun, and can be totally enigmatic.

When you're ready, your waitress will come and introduce herself. Either blind or visually impaired, the staff have been chosen as they have the skills to help diners from the start of their meal to the end. You will be taken into the dining room, which really is in total darkness. Before going in, you'll be asked to leave your phone and valuables in a locker; the management don't want

Dining in the Dark isn’t just about the absence of light – you're also metaphorically in the dark when it comes to what you're actually eating. The dinner consists of nine courses, divided into starters, mains and desserts – three of each.

Everything’s kept secret, and only the chef, the talented Stephen Ashley, and his staff know what’s for dinner.

intrigue too – and this is exactly what people are experiencing now in Dining in the Dark Samui. So how does it work? And what happens if you opt to eat here?

After you've finished (the dinner will take between an hour and an hour and a half), you'll be lead back out to the bar, and it’s here that you'll see photographs of what you've eaten.

Eat-first, look-later is a strange way to go about anything to do with dining, but here, it works and works well. You'll be surprised when you find out exactly what you've been served – it may be quite different to what you imagined. With a menu that's always secret, but often changing, you can come back again and will probably be served completely different dishes.

It’s highly recommended that you reserve. This is to give you a chance to state your food preferences, especially if you have a food allergy.

And there’ll no doubt be some ingredients that just aren’t for you. Maybe you can’t stand tomatoes, or duck or some sauce or other. Maybe you're vegan or vegetarian. All this is best stated

in advance, as it has a bearing on your experience.

Dining in the Dark is open from 6:00 pm until 11:00 pm every day except Sundays, with the last seating at 9:30 pm. You're welcome to bring children with you, but they have to be 12 or over – children under this age may feel a bit scared, so for this reason it’s not permitted. Dining like this is sure to be an experience, and it’ll almost certainly be one that’s new to you. Be prepared to enjoy a culinary guessing game like no other and, above all, to have some memorable fun.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 922 590 510. www.dininginthedarksamui.com

Sabienglae restaurants offer traditional fresh seafood and cuisine in an authentic southern Thai style.

Come and enjoy our unique dishes, many of which you won’t find elsewhere on the island, in a relaxing atmosphere. An experience to truly complete your holiday.

Sabienglae Restaurant

The Wharf Samui, Fishermans’s Village For reservation please call 077 332 651

18 www.siamwininganddining.com

Hin Ta Hin Yai, Samui Ring Road For reservation please call 077 233 082-3

Wimaan Buri Resort, Chaweng Ring Road For reservation please call 077 962 333

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort presents a wide range of restaurants and bars featuring a variety of cuisines to suit all tastes.

Premium cocktails and selected wines are also available in each outlet.

STAR

A stunning rooftop bar where you can sip our signature cocktails and enjoy some snacks while watching the sunset or gazing at the stars above.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs.

The Height

Sun Deck

Wine and Cigar Lounge

Oering an extensive menu of delightful Thai cuisine, the restaurant has both air-conditioned and open air seating options, all with stunning views of the surrounding sea.

Open: 17.00-22.30hrs.

Exclusive dining on the deck with breathtaking views.Enjoy International delights in a romantic setting with your loved one. Please reserve in advance.

Refreshments, cocktails and snacks with a selection of premium wines and cigars to enjoy the breathtaking view.

Open:18.00-22.30hrs.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort 208/66 Moo4, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84310 Thailand Tel: (+66) 077 960 555 Fax: (+66) 077 960 055 www. Silavadeeresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com 19

Rice Barge &

Terrace

Fine Beachside Dining at the Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine WEEKLY CALENDAR MONDAY Candlelight Set Dinner for 2 persons at Rice Barge Thai Cuisine and The Barge TUESDAY - GRILLED NIGHT Chef Special Thai or Western set menu for 2 persons at Rice Barge and The Barge WEDNESDAY - HAWAIIAN STYLE Hawaiian Seafood Buffet THB 1,290/person Children 6-12 half price (Special price for advance reservations) Entertainment: The Barge Band and Polynesian show.

Free Management Cocktail & Canapes 6-7 pm THURSDAY Thai or Western set menu for 2 persons at Rice Barge Thai Cuisine and The Barge EVERY DAY Thai Cooking Class - Reservation in advance Bartender Master Class - Reservation in advance Happy Hours: Swimming Pool: Hillside 1pm-2pm. Beachside 2pm-3pm Lobby Lounge 6pm-8pm, Rice Barge 6pm-7pm The Barge 6pm-7pm Private Dinner THB 3,500, 7,000, 8,500, 11,000 net Reservation in advance SATURDAY - WEEKEND DAY Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine Chef Signature Set Menu THB 3,000 for 2 persons SUNDAY - FAMILY DAY The Barge Western Cuisine & Seafood Chef Signature Set Menu THB 3,000 for 2 persons

Rice Barge & Terrace Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North

It’s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & Spa Tuesday Night- Around Asia Night. We invite you to experience a variety of traditional Thai dishes.

Price THB 850 per person. Entertainment: Ponglang & Pink 8 Duo Band.

Thursday Night - Hawaiian Night. Enjoy our chef’s special buffet creations. Price THB 950 net per person. Children 6-12 years old half price. Entertainment: Fire Show & Pink 8 Duo Band.

Thai Cooking Class Learn how to cook 3 authentic Thai dishes with our Thai Chef.

Inclusive of chef hat, apron, certificate and recipe.

Fruit Carving Class Inclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate.

Daily Happy Hours Pool Bar 1.00 pm - 2.00 pm & 4.00 pm - 5.00 pm. Prasuthon Restaurant 6.00 pm - 7.00 pm.

Lobby Bar 7.00 pm - 8.00 pm & 10.00 pm - 11.00 pm.

Romantic Private Dining Dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress.

Set menu THB 4,000 for couple.

Thai menu THB 6,000 per couple.

International menu THB 8,000 per couple.

Advance reservation required

For further information please telephone 0 7742 9400 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com 20 www.siamwininganddining.com