November 2015

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Low season means no crowds, yet on-going culinary excellence!

Spending any part of November on Samui means that you won’t be experiencing crowds during your stay. Low season means that almost anywhere you go, you'll be able to enjoy the island without much in the way of distraction.

But just because there are fewer holidaymakers around, it doesn’t mean to say that the island’s resorts and restaurants skimp on service. Not at all. Standards are maintained no matter if there are just a few people eating in restaurants or scores. You'll be assured of

more attention, too, and it’ll be even easier to speak to your chef, should you wish to do so.

November on Samui is usually accompanied by some rain so it’s a chance to linger over lunch, or enjoy visits to the island’s growing

number of cafés. They all offer a range of coffees, teas and baked goods that are on par with any cosmopolitan city. Try recently-built Central Festival for the highest number of cafés and restaurants all in the same place, if you're not sure where to go.

But one thing’s assured, you'll find plenty to eat and drink on Samui. The pages of this month’s Wining and Dining showcase just a few of those possibilities. Enjoy!

SAMUI

Graeme Malley Editor

Preeda Tuajob (Puy) Graphic Designer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon (Don) Photographer

Seksak Kerdkanno (Klauy) Webmaster

Rob De Wet Feature Writer

Dimitri Waring Feature Writer

Natalie Hughes Feature Writer

Peter James Feature Writer

Nipawan Chuaysagul (Ning) Sales & Marketing Director ning@siammap.com Tel: 0 898 783 891

Henrik Bjørk Managing Director

Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6, Samui Ring Road, Moo 3, Bo Phut, Samui, 84320 Thailand Tel: (66) 0 7742 2201 Fax: (66) 0 7741 3523 email: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission from Siam Map Company Ltd. Whilst every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. c Siam Map Company Ltd. 2015

Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways.

Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com

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Located at Tesco Lotus Chaweng, Tesco Lotus Lamai and Central Festival 2

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Relax Isn’t Just a Verb, It’s a Place Relax@Samui turns out to be a seaside restaurant that’s more laid-back than most.

Buzzing along the coast, heading from destination to destination, you can often miss out on some amazing gems. These locations tend to be well away from built-up areas, and combine a relaxing environment with great food, yet may still be unknown to most visitors.

If you drive from Maenam to Nathon, about a kilometre before the big hill that marks the north-west corner of the island, you'll find the remarkable Relax@Samui. It’s home to a restaurant that’s popular with locals and long-stay guests, but alas, many holidaymakers never get to hear about it.

Relax@Samui is the brainchild of Khun Jaran Hussadee, who established the restaurant some seven years ago. He’s on site most of the time, an affable figure who is not just owner and manager, but also doubles occasionally as bar-tender and chef. The retaurant is set on its very own small headland right by the sea. From here you can look out in several directions: to the Angthong Islands in the south, across to Koh Pha-Ngan and then along the north coast too. Not many spots can boast such diverse views. And then there’s the backdrop of rising hills that start close to the other side of the road. It’s a balmy, indolent setting that typifies all that’s best about an exotic island destination.

The sea-breeze keeps things cool, and the layout of the restaurant is quite different from what you

might expect. For a start, there’s only a small central dining area. Instead the emphasis is on an intimate series of tables that meander along the edge of the sea, each sheltered from the sun and rain by a thatched roof. Surprisingly, this is one of the few restaurants that offer this kind of seating on Samui. There should be more! The tables are great for couples and also for families and groups of friends. Suffice to say that you'll like it here, and not just because it’s so relaxed, but because the food and drink are excellent.

For drinks you can choose between shakes and smoothies in tall glasses, perfect for a hot day, or delicious juices. There are all manner of liquors, shots and cocktails, and certainly Relax@Samui is an ideal spot for a sundown drink. There are over two dozen classic cocktails including caipirinha, passion fruit caipiroska, tequila sunrise and mango daiquiri. And you can also indulge in a very Thai way to drink with friends; just try one of the drinks by the bucket. These are small buckets with ice and a variety of alcoholic beverages ranging from Jack Daniel’s through Chivas Regal to Sangsom.

The menu is centred on Thai food, seafood and international dishes, and there's a great variety; something for every appetite. Don't worry if you're not ready for a full meal, as they offer plenty of appetizers. Chicken satay and shrimp tempura are on the menu, as are a variety of salads. And if you'd like something international,

you can opt for French fries, a burger or a sandwich. Yummy desserts are de rigueur, with ice-cream, deep-fried bananas and pancakes with ice-cream.

For more hearty appetites, there's a long list of mains with the focus being on seafood. If you love snapper, then this is one of the places to come and enjoy it. You can also have typical Thai curries, stir-fry dishes and pad Thai.

Nested in the menu you'll also find separate mini-menus. For example, there are separate pages devoted to soft shell crab dishes, New Zealand mussels and papaya salads from Isaan, notably with seafood, pickled fish and salted crab.

As for the prices, nothing here is going to break the bank. Seafood is at market price, and in addition there are also beer and cocktail promotions every day. People like to linger at Relax@Samui and come to enjoy the beach.

You'll find free kayaks available if you want to go off and explore for a while. And if you've been swimming, then take advantage of the free showers. There's naturally free Wi-Fi, and a substantial car park (you can park on either side of the road).

restaurant makes a great place for the reception afterwards. Khun Jaran also arranges all kinds of get-togethers such as anniversaries, birthdays and parties. Usually a cake is included completely free of charge. All you have to do to book is to phone him and discuss your requirements.

The restaurant is a definite success story, so much so that Khun Jaran has undertaken a second project that is opening this very month: Relax@Rabieangley, just along from Relax@Samui. It’s a beach club that offers sun beds, rent-free kayaks, showers, food (international, Thai and seafood) as well as drinks. A DJ plays every week and you can expect plenty of fun and beach parties.

With not one but two relaxing venues, there are plenty of reasons to head out of town and enjoy quality time by the sea in a truly beautiful north coast setting.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 862 663 730 or 0 7760 2228. www.relaxsamui.com

Relax@Samui is a decidedly romantic setting, and not surprisingly it’s well-known for its weddings.

Right on the edge of the headland, you'll find a special area just set aside for tying the knot. The

Romantic views, soothing sounds and classic Italian fare with a modern approach combine to please the most discerning diner.

Olivio - a must for visitors and locals alike.

Olivio ~ beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort Chaweng Beach.

Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500 www.siamwininganddining.com

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Dragons, Serpents and Blocked Noses Lemongrass will always come to your rescue.

If you ever find yourself in need of protection from serpents, dragons or arrows then maybe a trip down to your local market is called for.

There we suggest picking up a bunch of lemongrass and that should be the answer. Don’t be deceived by its looks. According to ancient legends, these long, innocuous looking stalks hold many powers. And today it’s ascribed with some modern powers as well.

In Mexican folklore, it was believed that lemongrass oil would repel dragons and serpents, while other ancient legends hold that Malay warriors would cover their whole bodies in the oil before they went out to battle as protection against weapons. It’s possible that these tales arose from the strong odour of lemongrass, for it is one of the strongest smelling oils to be distilled. In modern times it’s also used in aromatherapy, but done so very sparingly. In aromatherapy the use is generally not against dragons, at least not physical ones but rather the mental dragons of stress and depression. And both of these have been found to be relieved by the lemongrass aroma.

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Lemongrass is a tall perennial plant which thrives in tropical and subtropical regions, and can be found in abundance in Thailand as well as Malaysia, India, Sri Lanka and Indonesia. The Thai name for lemongrass is 'takraai' and it is an important ingredient in Thai cooking. You'll probably know it from the delicious Thai soup, tom yum or the spicy Thai green curries that are readily available at every restaurant here on the island. However if you get a stalk of the fragrant herb in your dish do not attempt to eat it. Only the lower bulb is edible, and the stalk is added to give extra flavouring to the dish. In Thai cooking, lemongrass will first be chopped finely and pounded with a pestle and mortar, or in more modern kitchens with a food processor, and then sautéed along with ginger to add the first layer of flavour to the dish.

Maybe you're not sold on the fact that this is going to ward off those serpents, but if we take a look at modern research, lemongrass has been found to have many health benefits, that go beyond helping the previously mentioned stress and depression. Firstly some have advised that drinking lemongrass tea on a regular basis

promotes healthy digestion. It has antiseptic compounds that effectively kill bad bacteria and parasites in the digestive tract and repopulate it with good bacteria. However it should be noted that lemongrass tea is not advised for small children, pregnant women or anybody with liver or kidney problems.

teaspoon of turmeric powder and boil in one cup of milk. After it has cooled down, strain and it’s ready to drink. Take this mixture once a day for a few days and it should help you feel better.

Research has also been done into its cholesterol lowering properties. A University of Wisconsin study in 1989, found that people with high cholesterol who took 140-milligram capsules of lemongrass oil daily noticed a reduction in their cholesterol levels. At the same time they also experienced a significant decrease in blood fats.

Lemongrass is packed with vitamin C, which is a great boost to your immune system, so it can be used to relieve some of the symptoms of the common cold or flu, including alleviating that stuffy nose that you get, making breathing easier.

The oil can also be used to treat the muscle pains you may experience when you have flu.

Other teas that you can make are very easy. And this one in particular sounds delicious and very easy to make. First, cut off the root end of two lemongrass stalks and remove the dry outer leaves. Gently bruise the base of the stalks with a rolling pin, to allow the flavour to come out.

Next, tie the lemongrass in a knot and place in a deep cup along with a pinch of cinnamon and any sweeteners you wish to use. Add boiling water and a black tea bag. Remove the tea bag as soon as the water is golden brown. Add the juice of half a lime to taste and serve with a lemongrass stirrer. This is perfect for those rainy days when you need a bit of cheering up.

Lemongrass has a calming and relaxing effect and is great for lifting you out up and out of those blues.

One recipe for a medicinal tea is as follows: take a few fresh strands of lemongrass, two or three cloves, a small piece of cinnamon stick, one

After hearing all these great things about lemongrass, you’ll be pleased to hear it’s a very easy plant to grow at home, and is quite

attractive to look at. To start off, simply buy a bunch of fresh lemongrass at the local market.

Look for stalks that are fragrant, tightly formed, and of a lemony-green colour near the bulb, then turning to a truer green at the end of the stalk. Once home, trim off a couple of inches from the top of the stalks and peel away anything that looks dead. Then place your stalks in a jar of shallow water. Place the jar in a dry sunny spot. After a few weeks, tiny roots will start sprouting at the bulb end of the lemongrass.

Just wait a little longer than simply transfer the stalks to a pot of soil and place in a sunny dry spot.

So whether it’s the taste you're after, the aroma, a relaxing tea or even to rid your house of dragons, lemongrass promises it all!

Natalie Hughes

The Legend of Poppies One of the island’s best-known landmarks continues to blossom.

Ask anybody who’s been coming here for a while. Ask them to come up with three or four names that sum up Samui. You know what I mean – a restaurant or resort that’s a household name. Something that’s become a classic. A place that offers such outstanding quality or service that it’s still going strong ten years on. If you only ever come here once every year or two, you’ll be amazed how many new names there are each time. But there’s one name that was never a one-year-wonder. And forget about ten; this place has been thriving for more 30 years. It’s where it’s always been, down at the southern end of Chaweng Beach Road. And its name is Poppies Samui.

To understand its success, you’ll need to appreciate its vision. Try to imagine a Samui with no 7-11s or ATM machines. There’s no airport; to get here you have to come by sea. Areas like Maenam and Bangrak exist really only in name – a few dozen buildings, most of them old and wooden, close to a rickety boat-jetty. Chaweng Beach Road is there, true. But it’s a long, narrow dirt track that runs parallel to the beach.

Chaweng itself is utterly unrecognisable, comprised of a small collection of houses and beach shacks, massed around where Soi Green Mango is today.

The rest of the beach road is untidy scrubland on either side, with scruffy undergrowth and sand fringing the beach and sea, which you can see from most of its length. Here and there, you’ll see the collection of huts of a little family-owned resort. This is the norm. With the exception of just a few large, up-market Thai-styled beach resorts (still largely made of wood), this is the type of no-frills and very cheap accommodation that’s been drawing the hordes of backpackers to our island paradise.

In those days, the Englishman, John Taylor, owned and managed a small resort in Bali by the name of Poppies. But he’d had the idea for a while to create something similar on Samui. And in 1988, he met up with an Irishman, David Hill, who owned a small plot of land on a deserted part of Chaweng Beach. They quickly became

friends, and then partners. And in 1989, just before work began on Samui’s airport, they began the extensive planning of a resort that was eventually to be quite a few years ahead of its time. The concept was simple enough: to make a small, private beach resort, landscaped and lush, with each of the brick-built cottages designed, fitted and furnished to the same high standards as you’d expect to find in Europe, complete with air-conditioning and a fully-fitted bathroom.

Today this concept is commonplace. But back then, Poppies Samui was undoubtedly the island’s first ‘boutique’ resort’, although it would take a few years for this term to come into general use. And the second thing that made all of this unique was the restaurant. Right from the word go this was conceived as being more than just a convenient food-stop for the guests. A top chef offering a top cuisine would open the doors to diners from outside – another unusual idea at that time. And, over the next decade, a succession of no fewer than four world-class chefs created a kitchen, and a Thai and International menu, which slowly became a Samui legend – the format of which a great many of the resorts that were later to follow copied enthusiastically.

Another unique approach was that the two partners decided to carefully select and train their Thai staff. This might sound a small thing but, even today, a large number of small resorts are not prepared to invest in this area – a quick scan of TripAdvisor will rapidly reveal those near-sighted competitors battered by complaints about baffled staff who are unfamiliar with the English language. This has never happened at Poppies. Indeed, all of the senior staff have been there many years, and there are several whose loyalty reaches right back to the very early days.

As you may have gathered by reading this far, Poppies is not a place that has time for gimmicks or extravagance; it simply doesn’t need them.

Whereas some resorts bewail the fact that that their guests go elsewhere to eat, Poppies doesn’t. Over half of the people who stay at Poppies have stayed there before. They’ve explored. And they know that there are not

many restaurants that are better. Even over the Christmas and New Year, when other resorts are rubbing their hands at the extra income of a compulsorily Gala Meal and New Year bash, Poppies offer their guests the choice. And most of them opt for Poppies splendid Traditional English Christmas Dinner complete with all the extras and trimmings.

Yes, Poppies restaurant, and its menu, are legendary. But the Thai side of things is also up there with the best of them, too. Khun Watanee – nicknamed Khun Wan – is the Chef-in-Charge of the Thai Kitchen. And folks come from far and wide to sample one of her very comprehensive Kantoke selections. This is a style of Thai dining where six or seven small dishes are presented on the same tray – a kind of Thai taster menu. But Khun Wan and her Western Kitchen counterpart, Khun Noi, between them have created a super-special dining experience in this format.

There are five different Thai options (Traditional, Seafood, Four-Regions, and Royal Thai) plus an additional full vegetarian offering. Each of these are for two people and come with two starters, three main dishes (with rice included) plus a dessert, And the Western kantoke features a ‘Selection of Small Poppies Specials’, a ‘Selection of Small Seafood Dishes’, and the highlight of the ‘Poppies Seafood Extravagance’. This is just out of this world and covers the whole table with an array of Phuket lobster, scallops, mussels, prawns, squid, blue crab and tuna fillet, and comes with a choice of fries, baked or mashed potatoes, together with a dessert. Is it any wonder that Poppies Samui and its restaurant have become a Samui legend?

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 2419. www.poppiessamui.com

Located in the beautiful Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach.

Our experienced chefs proudly present authentic Thai cuisine and Southern Thai dishes. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the tranquility of the beach, the twinkling stars and the whispering waves along with the beautiful music. A superb dining experience and great memories.

Fisherman’s Village

Tel: 077 430 030, 077 245 035 www.kruabophut.com

Free Parking available at The

Wharf!!

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Between The Slices How did mankind ever survive before the humble sandwich arrived?

It’s said that pizza is the world’s favourite food.

I’d beg to differ. Simply compare the number of pizzas you eat in a week against the number of sandwiches. No contest really is it? In one form or another, the sandwich has been around since man started milling. And in more modern times, the number of different breads available, and the variety of potential sandwich fillings, have blossomed. And our eating habits have changed, particularly at lunchtime.

In the UK alone, the retail sandwich market is worth over £7 billion per annum. As for worldwide, who knows, my ability to do big sums stops at billions. Clearly the popularity of the sandwich has much to do with its ease of use, its comparative cheapness and its availability. Not to mention the fact that many people fail to stop working long enough during the day to enjoy a cooked meal. So how did it all come about?

John Montagu, fourth Earl of Sandwich (1718-1792), a British statesman and notorious profligate and gambler, is said to have invented this type of food so that he would not have to leave his gaming table to take supper. It’s a great story, however almost certainly untrue. For a start, his unnamed cook is more likely to have come up with the product, though he may have suggested some ideas. And if you look a bit deeper into the history of the Earl, you’ll find that due to a severe wound incurred during a naval battle when he was only 17 years-old, the Earl had a gastro-intestinal disorder that allowed him to subsist only on liquids. The Earl could not have eaten a sandwich even if he had wanted to!

There is, however remote it may be, another story that says that the Earl actually did contribute to the popularity in England of the creation that even today carries his name. In 1748, the Earl visited France, where he discovered that French landowners were responsible by law for providing their field workers with a noontime meal. Because it was convenient for everybody, the most common meal sent out to the fields was made by placing meat, potatoes, vegetables and sauce between two thick slices of bread. Some speculate that the Earl was so impressed by the economy of such meals, that on his return to England he began to feed them to his own workers. It could well be that his rivals put about the story of his avid gambling and hasty sandwiches to discredit or embarrass him.

As an aside, we could all too easily have been talking about a ‘Portsmouth’ rather than a ‘Sandwich’. “What do mean?” I hear you say. Let me explain. Hereditary English titles can be confusing. The family of the Earl of Sandwich has no real connection to the town of Sandwich itself, only the title. Edward Montagu, the first Earl, originally intended to take the title of the Earl of Portsmouth – this may have been changed as a compliment to the town of Sandwich, because the fleet he was commanding in 1660 was lying off Sandwich, before it sailed

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to bring back Charles II to England. If he hadn’t changed his mind it could have been all so very different.

There are now millions of different combinations of sandwiches available every day. In fact, some people have rather bizarre tastes. Personally my favourite is tuna, banana and mayonnaise, but then I like that on pizza, with baked potatoes and with just about anything else, except custard, maybe. But perhaps the most outrageous sandwich was created in London, not so much for its ingredients but for its price, a whopping £85.00! In April 2006, the sandwich went on sale at Selfridges, and at 2,000 calories it promised to not only lighten pockets but also expand waistlines. Known as ‘The McDonald Sandwich’ it was the brainchild of their Executive Chef Scott McDonald, who said the idea came to him whilst taking the train home a few weeks previously. “I thought if money was no object, what would you put in a sandwich? It wasn't just a case of using the most expensive produce, with exceptional flavours that marry really well. I wanted to make something where you get absolutely amazing taste from every level as opposed to a taste explosion.” The main expense of the sandwich was the Wagyu beef, which was flown in fresh from Japan, and comes from cows that were massaged and fed on beer.

Other ingredients included fresh foie gras and black truffle mayonnaise. Selfridges received seven pre-orders for the 21-ounce (595g) meal, and that was it!

Large suppliers and retailers now dominate the sandwich market, and many have come in for criticism in the past. Think of British Rail and the prices charged at motorway service stations.

Brands like the franchised ‘Subway’ now operate in more than 90 countries, and have come a long way in developing the humble sandwich, there’s even a branch in Chaweng, opposite McDonald’s. Here you’ll find many of the hotels and western-owned bars will prepare made-to-order sandwiches on good quality bread and with a reasonable choice of fillings. There are plenty of bakeries on the island now, all producing dozens of different styles of breads.

And your sandwiches will be a lot cheaper here than you would find them at home.

Samui has the cuisine of dozens of countries and all the regional variations of Thai food. But sometimes you can’t beat a good sandwich.

Whether that’s a bacon buttie in the morning, a lunchtime ham and cheese baguette or an evening’s braised monkey brains with sun-dried armadillo ears and mongoose mucus marmalade.

On second thoughts, I think I’ll stick to the tuna and banana!

Johnny Paterson

Secret Tongsai

We reveal one of Samui’s least-known luxuries – beach dining at Po Lad Bistro & Bar. If you’re a regular to Samui, you probably know already. But you’ll need to come here a few times before this happens. Because this is a resort that doesn’t ever shout. Take a look along Chaweng Beach Road. Take a good look. Stop and study it. Edge-to-edge competition; each eatery yelling louder than the last to grab your eye. Then try to picture the opposite. Acres of whispering woodland. A place where people have time for you. And a setting that’s as splendid as it is secluded, perched up at the island’s most north-eastern tip, far from the madding crowd. And that just about sums up The Tongsai Bay. It was not only the island’s first-ever 5-star resort, but it’s now become shrouded in folklore, too. In the late 1980s, one of Thailand’s leading hotel chains, The Imperial Group, was under the ownership and management of Khun Akorn Hoontrakul. He already operated 10 prestige hotels in Thailand, and was well-travelled in Europe, owning numerous Thai restaurants there, as well as reputedly the first-ever Thai eatery in London. And then, in 1985, he had occasion to come to Samui, caught sight of Tongsai Bay from the sea, and was immediately enchanted by it.

Khun Akorn immediately set about buying a huge swathe of land in the centre of the bay, and for the next three months, lived rough in a

Manathai Koh Samui

tent, mapping and planning it all. His first thought was that this was to be his dream resort.

But he’d fallen in love with the area to the point that he started planning a holiday home for his family, too. And this still exists today, tucked away discreetly in a wooded corner of the 25-acre estate.

What makes the resort unique is that right from the start, the natural beauty of the bay was untouched, and not one tree was pulled or even a rock broken-up in its creation. This was thinking years ahead of its time. Today, there are a total of 83 luxurious suites, villas and cottages knitted into this unspoiled landscape, but you’d never know it. Not only are they widely-spread and blended into the greenery, but they’re also positioned to follow the natural lie of the land.

Over the years that followed, as development ate away at more and more of Samui’s natural resources, the island’s wildlife instinctively migrated across to this safe haven. And today it’s become something of an unofficial nature reserve, even having several species of plants and wildlife that can no longer be seen elsewhere on the island.

Khun Akorn had already developed a love of Italian styling. Which explains why the upper level is laid-out around an open square, reminiscent of an Italian piazza, before

Samui Ring Road

Lamai

descending in elegant terraces towards the lily ponds and beach. And also why the walls are plastered in white stucco, the floors are mosaic-tiled, and windows and doors are arched in the Roman style. While other hotels, resorts and grand houses were being built with the characteristic Thai multi-nested steep roofs and elaborate wooden decoration, Tongsai Bay got Tuscany terracotta tiles – altogether unique in Thailand, let alone Samui.

As might be expected of a gentile and high-end resort, Tongsai Bay has more than just one restaurant. The main one, on the upper level, is Chef Chom’s. For many years, this legendary chef was in the service of Princess Vibhavadi Rangsit at the Royal Palace, before she eventually became the personal chef of Khun Akorn and his family. And today, the majority of the dishes here in the restaurant are uniquely original, either stemming from the Royal Court, or having been rescued from regional obscurity. This alone is a reason for those in the know to make a point of dining here.

But the other restaurant, the unsung little brother, Po Lad Bistro & Bar, is just as enticing and situated right on the beach. Unlike much of the island’s sand, this strip (as Khun Akorn’s family will affirm!) is really rather special. There are only a handful of spots on Samui where

Telephone 0 7745 8560-4

there’s a small private cove, with a sandy beach and deep water, together with chunky outcrops of rocks on either side, back-dropped by misty islands. Po Lad is over to the right-hand side of the resort’s edge and sits on a shaped contour of plain wooden decking, which extends around to the pool area. Furniture is wooden - strong, elegant, simple and understated, as indeed is the overall décor. This is a place where you’ll experience superb cuisine; the ambiance comes from the surroundings (helped along with some subtle lighting) and needs no enhancement in any way. There’s a separate lunch and dinner menu. And the cuisine is Thai and international.

Chef Aek (otherwise known as Khun Thanawut Chaiwanwut) is the man in the kitchen. He’s a seasoned veteran of both Thai and haute cuisine.

The menu layout is the expected selection of starters, soups and mains (of which there are many) plus gourmet desserts – even though the section headers are cheerfully quirked to raise a smile (‘The Opening Act’, ‘Stampede’, ‘Grills n Thrills’, ‘Greenie and Beanie’ and so on). But the dishes themselves are each mini works of gastronomic art, with a full (and expanding) selection of vegetarian choices, and with each dish having a coding key – vegetarian, vegan, mild, spicy, hot etc..

tempted by the ‘Soft Braised Wagu Ox Cheek’ – ‘with truffled mashed potato, root vegetables and shitake mushrooms’? Would you fall for the ‘Braised and Flaked Duck Breast’ – accompanied by ‘baked apple, onion mash, mushrooms, aged sweet balsamic and red wakame salad’? Or perhaps lose yourself in the greenery of ‘Goat Cheese and Beetroot Carpaccio’? There’s a section of curries and of various pastas too. Plus of course, a full selection of both classic and New World wines to go with all of this.

The Tongsai Bay is special, in many ways. And it’s not much more than ten minutes’ drive from Chaweng. It was the island’s first 5-star resort, but it’s just as fresh today as it ever was. It’s not on the tour brochures and it’s never been trendy – other than the fact it set trends to begin with.

It’s unassuming, it’s understated, and it’s still a bit of a secret. Except now you know – don’t you!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7725 5480. www.tongsaibay.co.th

To focus on the evening dining choices, are you

www.manathai.com

Opening Times 10am – 1am www.siamwininganddining.com 7

The Lion and the Elephant

Brewing beer in Thailand got off to a late start, but now the drink couldn’t be more popular.

Beer. For many, it’s one of life’s staples. Its roots go back some 6,000 years to the Middle East, where people started experimenting with fermenting bread to produce a quite nasty alcoholic drink, at least by today’s standards.

Even so it had its fans. But the recipe got better, especially after the bread was taken out. Just a thousand years later, the Babylonians had transformed the mix and were busy brewing a vastly improved product - beer. They had over a dozen types, though all were still a far cry from the beer we know today. It had to be drunk through a straw, due to all the solids that floated around in the soupy brew. And it was certainly an acquired taste, as it was incredibly bitter.

Fast forward another fifteen centuries and if you dropped into Ancient Egypt, your arrival might well be welcomed with beer – the Egyptians were very keen on the drink, so much so that they left beer in the pharaohs’ tombs in order for them to be able to drink in the afterlife. The Romans loved beers too, though were even more enthusiastic about alcoholic beverages drinks made from grapes.

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But one thing’s for sure. Ever since the discovery of beer, it’s been decidedly popular.

As any restaurateur knows, it’s one of the easiest products to sell. Its presence alone guarantees its sale. And though it’s devoid of any kind of mystique, and has no cachet for sophistication, it remains a best seller. This down-to-earth product is simply something that many of us order without a second thought, especially on a warm day or evening. And in Thailand there is no shortage of these, which may explain why it’s so staggeringly popular here.

But it wasn’t always the case. For a long time, Thailand didn’t have much in the way of beer consumption; beer arrived in bottles from outside the country, as an import along with other bottled goods. It was definitely a rarity.

That has now completely changed, and beer is as common as bananas here!

So just what happened in Thailand for beer to go from unknown to ubiquitous? In the early 1930s, the Thai government started hearing from entrepreneur Khun Boonrawd Sreshthaputra. He was a former teacher turned car dealer. who

was also a ferry operator on the Chao Praya, the main river that runs through Bangkok. Things were going downhill for him as his ferry business faced stiff competition from the new bridges that were spanning the river. So he asked the government to let him build a brewery. Not knowing much about brewing, he set off for Denmark and Germany, where he found expert mentors, and by the time he returned, he was a beer maestro. In 1933, the Boon Rawd Brewery produced the first bottles of Thai beer, Singha, and since then the company has never looked back.

Since those first days, they’ve produced an ever increasing quantity of beer, upgrading their brewery when necessary and introducing new equipment. The brewery is still in family hands to this day. Singha beer is a clean-tasting pale lager and if you order it, just ask for ‘sing’ as the final consonant isn’t pronounced in Thai. You can also find a lighter version, but whatever you choose you'll be drinking Bangkok’s most popular beer, and one that’s recognized outside the country these days. Check out the label, which depicts a ‘singha’ or lion. Boon Rawd

also produces Leo, a cheaper version of Singha.

The lion may be the undisputed king of the jungle, but when it comes to beer, Singha is faced by a mighty challenge from Chang (the word ‘chang’ translates as elephant). Chang is the top-selling beer in Thailand. It’s produced

by ThaiBev which is owned by billionaire Khun Charoen Sirivadhanabhakdi. Even though its first beer wasn’t produced until 1995, it’s done enormously well for itself. If in its early days some people saw it as being an upstart compared to Singha, their voices have long been silenced by the popularity of the beer. It’s basically sold everywhere in the country, and many of its fans will drink nothing else. The company wanted it to be more international and in a powerful move, ThaiBev became the sponsor of Liverpool’s Everton Football club in the UK, guaranteeing the brand global recognition. At the same time, in 2004, ThaiBev launched Archa beer. It’s less well-known, but cheaper, and has a lower alcohol content than Chang.

Thai beers are all basically pale German style beers, and quite palatable for most people’s

tastes, but be warned however that with an average alcohol content of 5% they are a lot more potent than many beers you can find back home.

What about the future? It looks like the lion and the elephant will slug it out for decades to come. In their fierce battle neither lacks fans.

There’s no serious competition either, and whilst foreign beers are also popular in Thailand, as are the new craft beers, neither Singha nor Chang are likely to be knocked out of the ring by an ardent newcomer. But never mind any of that. Since you're in Thailand, now’s the time to sample what Thai beers have to offer. You’ll find they're perfect in the hot weather here and are pleasantly refreshing. Do as many Thais do and order them in a glass full of ice, and then drink it through a straw. It certainly adds a spin to things!

Dimitri Waring

Sumptuous Specials by the Sea Full Moon Char Grill at Anantara Bophut offers exquisite international cuisine in one of Samui’s most exotic settings.

Full Moon Char Grill tops many a resident’s list as the place to dine. It’s a wonderful blend of a beautiful setting and great-tasting food. And since the restaurant is in the capable hands of Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort & Spa, diners know that everything’s been considered, all the many small details that need to dovetail in order to make a great dining experience.

The resort is located on the ring-road, just 500 metres from the Bophut traffic lights. The setting seems resolutely urban until the moment you turn into the resort. Then everything changes, and you enter a very different world. First you cross a drawbridge over a tropical pond and head through an ancient-looking arch. Then a driveway fringed by huge trees leads you to the atrium. A breath-taking surprise lies beyond: a long, beautiful lily-bedecked pond that stretches the length of the resort. The atmosphere oozes tropical indolence. Full Moon overlooks the resort’s swimming pool and the sea beyond. Just the view alone will lighten your mood; it’s decidedly romantic and an ideal place to linger.

Full Moon is a Mediterranean-themed fine dining restaurant with char grill elements. Seafood abounds, though there are plenty of other choices as well. The simple, clean lines and elegance of the architecture enable you to focus on what you’ve come for – the food. And you're in for a treat. Dishes are satisfying and are filled with flavour, using only the freshest of ingredients.

The restaurant’s well-known for attracting very experienced chefs, and is now headed by Executive Chef, Christoph Lindner. Christoph has spent many years in Thailand; before that he lived and worked in France, then in Germany and England. He’s able to speak five languages making him thoroughly cosmopolitan. Working his way up through the food and beverage business, he’s not been simply a chef, but also

opened his own restaurant and acted as consultant for a high-society restaurant in Bangkok. All this has enabled him to develop and then hone his skills to perfection.

If you would like to sample what Full Moon is capable of, then you can do no better than try their lunch or dinner specials. These showcase a remarkable variety of dishes, all of which are very reasonably priced. Given a week of leisure, you could hypothetically plot a course through all of these and by the time you were finished you’d have completed a gourmand tour of some of the best dishes that Samui has to offer.

Without further ado, here’s the run-down for a week of good eating, starting with lunches. A half dozen fines de Cancale oysters kick off the week on Monday for just 750 Baht. Come back on the morrow and you'll be able to savour a very elegant bouillabaisse, and on Wednesdays, a Peruvian ceviche. On Thursday you’ll find paella, and then for Friday and the weekend, a selection of mussels that are all flown in from Brittany.

For the week’s dinners, you would be further spoiled by the medley of dishes Christoph has on offer. Monday is surf ‘n’ turf night, but as you can imagine it’s a far cry from the often careless versions you'll see the world over, and is instead decidedly exquisite. On Tuesday, there’s something entirely different, ‘crabbing night’, which features a bucket of crabs for two people.

The tastes are more sophisticated than the title might suggest, and it is a favourite with couples.

On Wednesday, the restaurant takes a break from the specials and simply offers à la carte dining.

Thursday nights see the best-selling New York strip, a 300g Black Angus delicacy that is extremely succulent. On Fridays, there are mussels, while on Saturdays a plateau de fruits de mer, with oysters, prawns and mussels. And then to finish the week, the Sunday special is a whole

fish en papillote. The fish might typically be a sea bass or grouper, depending on what’s available at the market.

Dishes like these tick all the boxes, as does Full Moon’s à la carte menu. The vegetables and accompaniments that go with the mains are equally tasty, with everything cooked and presented to perfection. When it comes to desserts, make sure that you try these as they're delicious in the extreme. Made with a pâtissier’s delicacy, they're certain to please.

The atmosphere is very laid-back, with friendly and welcoming staff, who are discreet and unobtrusive, but always on hand when you need them. Tables are well-spaced and there are relatively few of them, further adding to the intimate feel of Full Moon.

The cuisine at Full Moon is definitely inspiring, so much so that Anantara’s cooking class is extremely popular. They run at least two classes per day, often more; people come to learn Thai cooking and leave with the skills they’ll need to make restaurant-class dishes.

Full Moon Char Grill is a wonderful place to eat; with great food and a highly professional choice of wines to go with the dishes. And the extraordinarily beautiful location simply clinches the deal. Particularly memorable, lunch or dinner here is guaranteed to be mouth-watering.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 8300. www.anantara.com

An outstanding menu of International & Thai cuisine prepared by master chef Joseph Spiteri

Choeng Mon, 88/18 Moo 5, T. Bophut, Koh Samui Tel: 0 77243888 Email: info@baywaterresort.com www.baywaterresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com

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Time to Discover Thai

H Bistro at Hansar Samui doesn’t just offer international dishes but a wonderful Thai Discovery menu.

With its extraordinary wide-angle view of Bophut Bay, H Bistro is bound to be a hit when it comes to romantic evenings out. The views from its terraces are incomparable. You can see all the way to the headlands on either side of the bay, as well as have a striking view of neighbouring Koh Pha-Ngan. Naturally a lot of diners are seduced by the view, but this isn’t the main reason for coming to the restaurant. The food is, to say the least, superb. Thai and international dishes are prepared to perfection at this very modern restaurant (don’t be fooled by the humble word ‘bistro’).

If you love Thai food you'll be won over by the H Bistro Thai Discovery dinner menu. As the name implies it’s a chance to discover just what heights Thai cuisine can reach in the hands of a team of maestros. Whether you're a novice or an old hand, you'll be impressed by the menu. It’s overseen by executive chef Stephen Jean Dion, who used to be private chef for no less than the King and Queen of Jordan. He’s also worked in Singapore and Malaysia, as well as in top restaurants in Bangkok.

H Bistro is both spacious and comfortable.

Seating is blonde wood tables that have the clean lines of Scandinavian furniture, while the surrounding décor is pleasantly uncluttered and simple, allowing you to focus on the food itself.

You can sit upstairs or downstairs (both floors have great terraces), and the setting is decidedly elegant, but without being the least bit stuffy.

The atmosphere is friendly and laid-back, with the staff attentive and welcoming.

The discovery menu starts with a wing bean salad that’s accompanied by Hokkaido scallops and Bresse chicken. Though both the scallops and the chicken come from outside Thailand, this is still a Thai recipe. Says Stephen, “We’ve chosen scallops from Hokkaido for their sweetness, and the chicken’s from Bresse, in France, as the region’s known for its great quality poultry. For the salad, we use Thai ingredients that go well with the beans: garlic, chilli paste, coconut milk and kaffir lime leaves.” The results are a delicate and pleasing medley of tastes that are an ideal start to your meal.

It’s followed by a tom yum goong, but with the addition of little pork dumplings. Incidentally, Tahitian limes are used. These aren’t specially flown in from half way across the world, as you might think, but come from the north of Thailand, where they've successfully been transplanted. You might think that all limes are alike, but it turns out not to be the case. The Tahitian variety are two or three times the usual size, and their bright green colour suggests, quite correctly, that they’re saturated with goodness.

“We buy them from a Royal Project in Chiang Mai,” says Stephen, “We find them to be simply the best. They're very juicy and everyone likes them. We use them for drinks, as well. In high season we’ll get through 200 kilos of them!”

For the next course, there’s a choice to be made - maybe a hard one as both options are mouth-watering. Crispy snow fish tossed in garlic, red chilli, Thai sweet basil and chilli sauce vies with a beef massaman curry, with slow-cooked short ribs, braised baby onions, potatoes and cashews. The short ribs, by the way, are prepared in a way that's unusually painstaking. Slow-cooked means really slow.

“They're cooked at a very gentle heat for 24 hours,” explains Stephen. “First we seal them in a vacuum bag along with Thai herbs and this keeps the flavour in. Then we put the bag in a thermo circulator, a special device, which does the work of slow cooking the ribs to perfection and maintains the temperature exactly. When you eat meat like this, it definitely falls off the bone and is at its most tender.”

Both these mains are served with steamed rice and stir-fried root vegetables, oyster sauce, chilli and garlic. Though Thai food wasn’t traditionally accompanied by wines, the discovery menu has two prices, one that includes a soft drink, Singha beer or a juice, and the other that includes wine.

The last course is freshly sliced mango is served, along with sticky rice – that favourite of all Thai desserts – accompanied by coconut ice-cream.

It’s a delicious way to end a sumptuous evening such as this. Finally, there's Elefin tea or coffee with chocolate pralines.

excellence. You can find it at Hansar Samui resort, which is right on the beach at Fisherman’s Village – head along the beach road westwards and you'll soon come to it. If you're approaching from the ring-road, take the small turning just next to the Anantara Bophut Resort, some 600 metres after the traffic lights at Bophut as you head towards Nathon. Follow the road till you get to the resort.

Oddly it turns out that there aren’t quite as many Thai restaurants in Fisherman’s Village as you might expect, so H Bistro definitely fills a gap when it comes to Thai cuisine. And just because it’s a hotel, it doesn’t mean to say that the costs are outlandish. They're in line with eating in a restaurant, and are distinctly affordable. Stephen and the team at H Bistro have done their utmost to bring you excellent presentation and amazing tastes, whether you're trying out their Thai discovery menu or their international selection.

And judging by the number of satisfied diners, they've certainly succeeded.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7724 5511. www.hansarsamui.com

H Bistro is now in its fifth year, and has certainly acquired a much-deserved reputation for

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Table Tools The knife and fork haven’t always been around.

“In days of old, when knights were bold, And cutlery wasn’t invented, You just grabbed your food, It was messy and rude, But everyone seemed contented.”

Well of course they were. It used to be perfectly normal to use your fingers when you were eating. You held the meat in one hand, and used your knife to slice bits off it. And that’s probably all you had – because in days of yore there was nothing else on the table for you to use. What has evolved into the familiar table-knife has a long history. And it’s tangled up with the developing society and its fashions.

Plus eating habits too. But it’s also connected with the technology available at the time! If you think about it, cutlery in general serves just one purpose – to get the food into your mouth!

Whether it’s cutting, spearing or scooping, there’s a tool for the job. But we need to go back a bit…

Knives – cutting utensils – have been around since primitive man chipped them out of flint in the Stone Age. In fact, the knife and the spoon walk hand in hand through the ages. But spoons were always somewhat secondary in

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importance – and even in the Bronze Age were usually made of wood or shell. Forks? Well, they’re the late starters. They didn’t make an appearance right up until the late 15th century.

And in England in took another 200 years before they caught on.

For thousands of years, the knife was the main eating utensil. You used the sharp edge to cut up your portions and then the pointed tip speared the bits into your mouth. Up until the late Middle Ages, everyone (all the men that is) carried their own personal knife. And it was a highly valued item, too. In Saxon England, the scramasax (sharp, pointed and made of iron) was a weapon, eating utensil and all-purpose tool. In those times it was common practice to use a slice of bread to hold the food whilst it was being cut. And this was true for peasants and nobility alike.

However, in the late Middle Ages, a rift began to appear between the habits of the upper and lower classes. The commoners were still cheerfully hacking away at things with their knives. But now the custom was for the food to be placed on slabs of stale bread, known as trenchers. But by this time the grandeur of the

aristocracy had advanced apace. And it’s at this point that the fork makes its appearance. The reason was that it had become the fashion to use two knives at the table. One knife pressed the food down, and the other was used to cut it.

And it wasn’t long before the ‘pressing’ knife had a twin-forked blade, so that the food didn’t spin around when it was cut.

And so forks appeared, evolving from the hybrid twin-pronger! But only in the palaces and stately homes of Europe. The problem is that eating utensils made of iron discolour and oxidise quickly, and impart an unpleasant flavour to some dishes – fish in particular.

Before this period, silver had been almost as precious as gold – and just as scarce. Now there were hundreds of sailing ships foraging out into the New World. And this meant a sudden influx of silver into Europe. Thus it was that silver tableware came to be used – for those rich enough to afford it! The upper classes were still using their fingers at the table. But the desire to impress was strong. So, next to the dining table you’d now find a smaller table, arrayed with a grand selection of all sorts of hallmarked silver knives, forks and spoons – for those that wished to use them! And it was during this period that a

wider range of tableware appeared. Different shapes and sizes for different sorts of food (initially for show) – and the knives scaled down in size, as befitted both the hand and the table.

Indeed, by the late 1600s, forks had become commonplace amongst the gentry. And it was this that radically altered the design of knives used for eating. No longer needed to spear the food, their sharp points disappeared. In fact, in 1669, King Louis XIV completely banned the use of personal knives at the table. It seems that it was common for people to get stabbed, as well as the food! So points were out – and in their place came the more refined rounded tip that we know today.

For the upper classes, anyway. It was several more centuries before the humble working classes could afford such refinements.

Unsuitable iron utensils could be used, but they were more trouble than they were worth, and the pointy knife still survived at the poorer tables as the main item of cutlery.

But with the onset of steam power in the 19th century, things began to look up!

Mass-production was about to change the lives of millions. And in the 1920s, the invention of stainless steel removed that final barrier. Now everyone could afford a cheap range of cutlery that was non-corrosive and easy to keep clean.

And in a very similar way to the grand courts of the 17th century, now ordinary folk could take a pride in displaying their social standing – in the manner in which they set their table.

A new social etiquette had evolved. It’s now a far cry from the days when you whipped out your trusty blade and hacked a chunk off a haunch of stolen venison! And then let the juices trickle down your arms while you munched it, hand-held.

Or is it? Take a look around you. Fast food, microwaves, TV dinners, finger foods, sandwiches, snacks and nibbles – street stalls with pastries and pies. We can sit to eat at a burger parlour, and never even see a knife or fork. Fashions change and wheels turn. It’s called progress? Food for thought indeed!

Rob De Wet

SIP, SAVOUR, LOUNGE, AND LINGER Stay all day and move your mood, exploring our range of indoor and outdoor settings, right on Samui’s beach with panoramic view of the coastline. Enjoy a casual lunch in the shade, experiencing our eclectic menu of international cuisine or lounge away the aſternoon on a sunken daybed in the sand, steps away from the beach.

For evenings, COAST transforms into one of Samui's most attractive dining experiences, showcasing grills and seafood with great beach chill music to help you relax.

A variety of dining zones make it either the ideal venue for a memorable evening out with family and friends or an equally cool place to celebrate that special occasion party.

The focus at COAST is always on views of the beach and your effortless glide through the day.

Open Hours: 12:00 – 23:00 hrs.

www.centarahotelsresorts.com/csbr E: coast@chr.co.th T: +66 (0) 77 230500

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Going Native

Joining the locals at Ma-Yom Restaurant Ma-Yom is a family run business, and is one of those restaurants where you can safely tell the chef to bring you the works. However much you eat here – and the menu is long and varied – you won’t succeed in ruining your budget. It started out small – very small – and its owner, Khun Thitirat Soksamrat, more usually known as Khun Oy, gradually became a professional chef in the process. At first, she just ran a small noodle stall on the same site. But as business thrived, Khun Oy thought to open up the space behind the stall and turn it into a restaurant offering a full range of Thai food. So she built a sala, and made it very cosy and inviting. So much so, that it can now get packed out in high season.

Khun Oy says she enjoyed creating the restaurant and decided to name it after the star gooseberry tree, or ma-yom, in Thai, that used to be just outside the property. Such trees produce a sour fruit that looks a little like green grapes, and which can be turned into sweets and drinks.

Having such a tree on a property is also thought to bring good luck and success to the owner.

Once the restaurant was built, she had to put in the hard work of consistently producing good quality food. It’s well-known that the chef lifestyle suits only a very small percentage of people. Think of the long shifts and the physically stressful work - it isn’t everyone’s idea of fun. But Khun Oy seems an entirely relaxed figure and likes what she does. If you're eating at Ma-Yom though, you might only glimpse her in the kitchen, as she mostly works single-handedly and needs to keep a laser-like focus on getting the dishes out to the diners.

Prices can be kept low, because Khun Oy owns the land on which Ma-Yom is built; the fact there’s no rent to pay directly reflects in the restaurant’s prices. Khun Oy is helped out by her second-in-command, Khun Fon; she looks after all the diners’ needs and requests. She speaks good English so there’s no problem with communication.

The menu is all about home-style Thai cuisine, with recipes from all over the country. You'll find every Thai favourite featured. There are too many popular Ma-Yom dishes to mention here, but one of the all-time favourites is the deep-fried fish with crushed Thai herbs. The fish is usually white snapper, but it depends what looks good when Khun Oy is out buying it. It’s extremely tasty, as is the simple but wholesome soup, chicken in coconut. Curry fans will love the red seafood curry with pineapple. You can also have massaman, Penang and green curries.

The menu also goes on to list baked dishes, noodles etc., and there’s plenty of fare if you're vegetarian. With over a hundred different items, you'll be spoiled for choice here. Prices start from 70 Baht – not surprising therefore that Ma-Yom is popular with those who’re thinking

about their budget but still after a hearty meal.

There’s also a small selection of European-style food, such as French fries and fried chicken, if you really don’t feel in the mood for Thai. And by the way, if you're worried about the fieriness of the food, just ask for the degree of spiciness you'd like.

Ma-Yom also makes excellent no-name vegetables. These resemble Indian-style bhajis, but have a more Thai taste to them. They're delicious and are eaten with the sweet and spicy dipping sauce that usually accompanies spring rolls. Despite Thai food being so popular the world over, no-name is something that’s very hard to find outside the country. The dish is traditionally comprised of finely chopped, battered and deep fried vegetables, though at Ma-Yom chicken is added, too. You might be wondering how the dish came by its strange name. It’s because it’s traditionally made from scraps, and was never supposed to appear on a menu. Poor people ate the dish during meagre times, but thanks to the inventiveness of chefs, no-name has gained in popularity and you'll see it here and there in Thai restaurants.

Ma-Yom is located in central Maenam. At the town’s only traffic lights, turn off the ring-road and head towards the sea, and you'll see the restaurant about half-way down the road. The best place to park is on the rough ground at the traffic lights. Many people stop at the restaurant while exploring Maenam, and just down the road and round the corner, you'll find one of Samui’s finest Chinese temples, complete with a pagoda by the sea.

And on Thursdays this part of Maenam holds its weekly night market or ‘walking street’ when some 200 vendors set up stalls selling everything from cut-price food to clothing and souvenirs.

Ma-Yom is right in the heart of the action, so many people like to come and eat at the restaurant during the evening while watching what’s happening on the street.

Ma-Yom is always well-worth a visit; it’s open seven days a week from 6:00 pm until 10:00 pm.

You'll be assured of a warm welcome and some great food in a simple setting. Friendly and relaxed, Ma-Yom is a good place to linger. If you can’t finish all your food – this often happens as portions are quite big – then Khun Fon will be only too happy to place it in a container for you to take home.

Dimitri Waring

Take a bread cake and bakery Tel: 088 502 3112

Location: Samui Ring Road (nearly opposite Big C)

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Experience the very best in authentic Thai cuisine at Chef Chom’s Thai Restaurant at The Tongsai Bay Chef Chom's serves truly authentic Thai cuisine with an emphasis on local southern Thai cuisine. Wherever possible, ingredients are sourced locally and dishes are prepared from scratch.

This real Thai taste is the pride of the kitchen, and dishes are not 'watered down', the taste of Chef Chom's food is just the way Thais would have it.

Chef Chom’s is open daily for dinner from 7pm to 10pm. Tel: +66 (0) 77 245-480 www.tongsaibay.co.th

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The Fruits of Thailand Some well-known, and others less so, but all delicious!

Thailand has such an abundance of fruit that you might thing the entire country is one enormous orchard. Fruit is to be found everywhere, and often people have so much of it that they give it away to friends and neighbours. The country’s hot climate and fertile soils, along with its cooler regions in the north make the country ideal for fruit of many kinds. The supply’s always constant, with many popular fruits growing all year round.

you're sure to find a good few that you really like. Fruit is very cheap in Thailand and the same goes for Samui too. You'll find it in abundance at any local market. It’s of course healthy too, as well as incredibly tasty. Chances are that you'll soon be won over

by Thailand’s wonderful fruit, too.

We’ve put together a very brief guide to the main fruits that are to be found in Thailand:

If you're here in Thailand for the first time, many fruits may look decidedly strange and some you may never have even seen before, let alone tasted. But if you experiment

Banana (Gluay) Bananas in Thailand come in an amazing variety. With over 20 to choose from, in many different sizes. In Thai, each has a different name and there are many different ways to savour them. The Thais eat them raw, dried, boiled, fried or served as a dessert in coconut milk.

Custard Apple (Noina) The fruit doesn’t look much like an apple but you can recognize it thanks to its knobbly exterior and light green appearance. It’s tennis-ball sized and is usually eaten with a spoon. And, yes, it really does taste like custard.

It’s sweet and very satisfying.

Dragon Fruit (Gao Mung Gorn) It gets its name due to its exterior, which looks a lot like the scales of a dragon. The interior has soft flesh which is filled with tiny black seeds. Scoop out and eat the flesh and seeds with a spoon the way the Thais do.

Durian (Tu-Rian) The world’s most infamous fruit, it’s banned in many places in South-East Asia, and universally unwelcome in hotels, lifts and airplanes. With more spikes than a punk’s hair-do, durian stinks and puts most people off ever trying it. But the taste turns out to be a surprise; it’s sublime. It’s very expensive compared to other Thai fruits but is very versatile; it can be eaten raw, or as dried chips and is even enjoyed as ice-cream.

Guava (Farang) This fruit originally travelled to the tropics from its native Central America and the West Indies, and is now a definite Thai favourite. It’s appreciated for its exotic taste.

People enjoy it year round and it's often eaten before ripening along with chilli, sugar and salt. It can also be eaten ripe, and is extremely refreshing. You'll find guava jams and jellies in supermarkets, and it also appears in the form of ice-cream and drinks. Its Thai name, ‘farang’, is also confusingly a synonym for ‘foreigner’.

Jackfruit (Khanoon) With its succulent taste, jackfruit is always popular but is only to be found on sale between January and May. It’s a very large fruit that’s equivalent in size to a melon. The interior consists of many sections, each with delicious flesh that is covered in seeds. It’s most often eaten raw, although you can also find it battered and fried.

Relax@Samui Thai food - Seafood - European food Romantic atmosphere Private seaview cottages The best seaviews on Samui Bang Por Beach, Tel. 0 7760 2228

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Langsat (Lang-sard) This fruit actually comes from Thailand, and is incredibly popular. It’s only to be found between July and October.

It’s small and round, and is usually eaten raw. You'll need to persevere to pull off its skin but the reward is worth it. Inside you'll find succulent flesh that has a slightly sour taste.

Pineapple (Sapparod) You'll find pineapples in abundance on Samui as they grow best in sandy soil close to the sea. Thailand is a world producer of the fruit. Pineapples are always to be found in abundance at markets as they grow all year round. The flesh is eaten raw, but is also often to be found in desserts, sweet and sour dishes, and drinks.

Longan (Lam-Yai) Related to both the lychee and the rambutan, this fruit is found in the Chiang Mai region in the north of Thailand.

It’s seasonal and tends to be found only between June and August. The flavour is deliciously sweet and delicate.

Use a fingernail to first open the fruit and then squeeze out the flesh using your thumb and finger.

Pomelo (Som-O) This is the Thai equivalent to the grapefruit and looks and tastes almost the same, with a flavour half way between sweet and sour. You'll find it at the markets throughout the year, with many variations in skin colour that range from yellow to red.

Lychee (Linjee) This well-known fruit is popular everywhere and has a wonderfully delicate taste. It’s protected by a rough, reddish rind which can quite easily be removed, revealing the translucent white flesh inside. You'll also have to remove the single seed inside, as this is inedible.

The lychee is available from July to October only. It’s eaten raw but you'll also find it in desserts and drinks.

Rambutan (Ngor) Its name in English comes from the Malay word for hair, ‘rambut’, which pretty much sums up the appearance of this fruit – it looks like it’s sprouting very thick hair. The skin beneath is quite firm and is yellow and red. Inside you'll find pearly white flesh, which you will need to peel away from the seed inside. Sweet and delicious, it’s extremely popular with the Thais.

Mango (Ma-Muang) The mango is one of Thailand’s most consumed fruits, and there are many varieties to be found. Always refreshing, when it’s ripe it can be eaten raw, by simply halving it and eating with a spoon. It’s part of various desserts and very popular along with sticky rice and coconut milk. When it’s still not ripe, it can be eaten dipped in sugar.

Rose Apple (Chom-Poo) You'll often find this fruit eaten Thai-style with pinches of sugar and salt which bring out its crisp, refreshing taste.

It looks very like a pear and it has a shiny skin which can be either green or pink.

Mangosteen (Mang-Kut) Highly popular in Thailand yet barely known outside, this odd-looking fruit has amazingly tasty white flesh that conveniently comes in sections. The number of sections actually matches the number of each fruit’s petals, which are to be found on its base. The fruit is small and a deep purple colour and you'll find it piled high at markets. It’s eaten raw but is equally wonderful as a refreshing juice.

Papaya (Ma-La-Kon) Very popular, this fruit is found all year round in Thailand though is best between March and June.

Unripened, it forms the base for the tangy salad, known as somtam, which is eaten throughout Thailand. Papaya is a longish fruit that is best halved lengthways so that the line of seeds in its centre can be easily removed.

Then it’s cut into slices. The flesh is orange-coloured and deliciously succulent and soft when ripe.

Watermelon (Tangmo) Thailand is a watermelon paradise, with the rich soil giving the fruit a particularly delicious taste. You'll find both red and yellow watermelons and they're stocked at every market. To eat them, just cut in half and then cut away the rind and cut into slices.

Watermelons are ideal for blenders and make delicious, refreshing drinks to cool you down on hot days. It’s a definite favourite throughout the nation.

Sabeinglae Restaurant

Sabienglae restaurants offer traditional fresh seafood and cuisine in an authentic southern Thai style.

Come and enjoy our unique dishes, many of which you won’t find elsewhere on the island, in a relaxing atmosphere. An experience to truly complete your holiday.

The Wharf Samui, Fishermans’s Village For reservation please call 077 430 094-5

Hin Ta Hin Yai, Samui Ring Road For reservation please call 077 233 082-3

Wimaan Buri Resort, Chaweng Ring Road For reservation please call 077 962 333

www.siamwininganddining.com 17

The Wine Page Whoopee! Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!

It's November. And for a couple of decades in the last century, it was a very significant month in the world of wine, because the year's Beaujolais Nouveau was released. Beaujolais Nouveau (or Primeur) was originally a sort of local knees-up to mark the end of the harvest, and to drink the ‘vin de l’année’, the first of the new wine. It was decided, in 1938, that the new wine could only be sold after December. But the restrictions were changed by the UIVB (Union Interprofessionelle des vins du Beaujolais) in 1951, which cannily put a formal date on the release of the new wine (which, since 1985, has been fixed as the third Thursday in November), so making it a special occasion of sorts.

The wine, made from Gamay grapes, and bottled young, was frankly, a little suspicious.

But nevertheless, in 1972, a Sunday Times journalist, Alan Hall, had issued a challenge to readers. The idea was simple: who could be the first to bring back bottles of the Beaujolais Nouveau from the little town, just south of Burgundy, to Britain? He wasn’t the first to have the idea. That slightly dubious honour must go to Georges Duboeuf, the négociant, who had established the idea of a race to Paris with the new wine. But Hall can be credited with to bringing it to Britain, where it was enthusiastically taken up, despite the fact that nine times out of ten, the vin de l’année was not really worth drinking. People competed in cars, on trains and motorcycles, and by light aircraft and helicopter. And every wine bar worth its salt was hung with tricolour bunting and the phrase “Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!”

By the 1990s, the Beaujolais race had spread across Europe, to America and into Asia. And in due course, with the American market being what it is, the slogan changed to “It’s Beaujolais Nouveau Time!” All very clever, except in the long term, the sales of Beaujolais Nouveau rose, and the reputation of Beaujolais fell. This is a shame. Non-Nouveau Beaujolais has always been good, reliable, French style, medium-to-light-bodied fruity red wine that drinks a lot like red Burgundy.

At the time the Beaujolais Nouveau fad was at its height, I was a budding sommelier and hotel student. (Yes, I know I am giving away my age by telling you this!) In late 1970s Britain, the yuppies were also at their height. And I suspect there is no coincidence that rapidly increasing disposable incomes were being spent on wining and dining in style. The hype surrounding the release of Beaujolais Nouveau, and the race to get bottles to eager drinkers around the world, seemed to match the go-getting have-it-all-now mood of the era. The fact the wine was yeasty, insipid, and at best, fruity with no tannins, did not seem to matter, it was classic case of style over content. Gallons of it were drunk in hotels and restaurants all over Britain. Special dinners, and social events were held, all centred on the arrival of the much-anticipated wine. And each

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year some Beaujolais Nouveau based story, often involving eccentric skydiving wine-loving daredevils, was covered by television evening news programs. Looking back, I can't remember any serious discussion about whether the quality of the wine was any good or not, other than meaningless generic comments like, “it's drier than last year’s.” This was before wine critics of any note had any airtime on British TV. Nowadays, the Beaujolais Nouveau phenomenon is all but over, very little interest remains. And the bottles are shipped ahead, so a synchronized release can be organized worldwide, usually to lukewarm response.

Today’s far better informed wine drinker is less than impressed by Beaujolais Nouveau. Besides, the secret is out that although Beaujolais is a credible (sometimes great) wine, the Nouveau version is all hype.

In retrospect, it’s easy to criticize people’s lack of taste, especially in the late 1970s. But it was a different time, culturally immature. We ate egg mayonnaise as an appetizer, believing it was the height of culinary sophistication. We listened to shrill Demis Roussos on our tinny music centres, and we voted for Margaret Thatcher! But, this was an aspirational generation, wholehearted embracing upward mobility and conspicuous materialism. And wine, obviously, played its part. Nearly 40 years after the brilliant, cringe-worthy Mike Leigh play, Abigail’s Party, the unspeakable Beverly (played in the original TV production by the marvellous Alison Steadman, who managed to look like a trucker in drag) continues to arouse knowing and derisive laughter from the posh part of the audience when, given a bottle of wine by the thrifty Ange, she looks at the label, cries, “Ooo, nice, Beaujolais, I’ll just pop it in the fridge, okay?” How we laugh. Red wine? In the fridge?

Honestly. These people. How embarrassing. But times change, the hoots of laughter at her gaffe about the fridge now inspire superior smiles from the even posher part of the audience, who regard themselves as the real wine connoisseurs.

The fashion now (and ironically, always had been with a young Beaujolais) is to drink red wines lightly chilled.

As a footnote, at one point in the mocking, but socially aware play, the terrible and tedious Ange suggests, as a “very economical” dish, sardine curry. I know it’s not an idea to dwell on, but when wondering what goes well with a curry, we might indulge in some 1970s nostalgia, and imagine a plate of curried canned sardines with Beaujolais Nouveau, straight from the fridge!

Peter James

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort presents a wide range of restaurants and bars featuring a variety of cuisines to suit all tastes.

Premium cocktails and selected wines are also available in each outlet.

STAR

A stunning rooftop bar where you can sip our signature cocktails and enjoy some snacks while watching the sunset or gazing at the stars above.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs.

The Height

Sun Deck

Wine and Cigar Lounge

Oering an extensive menu of delightful Thai cuisine, the restaurant has both air-conditioned and open air seating options, all with stunning views of the surrounding sea.

Open: 17.00-22.30hrs.

Exclusive dining on the deck with breathtaking views.Enjoy International delights in a romantic setting with your loved one. Please reserve in advance.

Refreshments, cocktails and snacks with a selection of premium wines and cigars to enjoy the breathtaking view.

Open:18.00-22.30hrs.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort 208/66 Moo4, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84310 Thailand Tel: (+66) 077 960 555 Fax: (+66) 077 960 055 www. Silavadeeresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com

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Rice Barge &

Terrace

Fine Beachside Dining at the Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine Daily A La Carte and Thai Set Dinner No visit to Samui is complete until you have dined at the Rice Barge & Terrace

The Barge Western Cuisine & Seafood Every Monday Cowboy Steak Buffet Every Wednesday Hawaiian Seafood Buffet Rice Barge & Terrace Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North

It’s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & Spa Tuesday Night- Siam Kingdom Thai Night. We invite you to experience a variety of traditional Thai dishes.

Price THB 850 per person.

Thursday Night - East Meets West. Enjoy our chef’s special buffet creations. Price THB 950 net per person. Children 6-12 years old half price. Entertainment: Polynesian Show & Mariposa Duo. Thai Cooking Class Learn how to cook 3 authentic Thai dishes with our Thai Chef. Price THB 1,500 per person Inclusive of chef hat, apron, certificate and recipe.

Fruit Carving Class Price THB 1,500 per person. Inclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate.

Daily Happy Hour Beverages Special offer 50% off (Except wine, Corona beer, all spirits by the bottle) Pool Bar 1.00 pm - 2.00 pm & 4.00 pm - 5.00 pm. Prasuthon Restaurant 6.00 pm - 7.00 pm.

Lobby Bar 7.00 pm - 8.00 pm & 10.00 pm - 11.00 pm.

Romantic Private Dining Dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress.

Thai menu THB 5,000 per couple.

International menu THB 6,000 per couple.

Advance reservation required

For further information please telephone 0 7742 9400 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com 20

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