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Food for All No-one’s ever been able to count the number of restaurants on Samui. You're spoiled for choice.
Drive around Samui’s roughly circular ring-road and it’s a bit like being a minute hand going around the face of a very wonky clock. And it’ll take about the same time, too, an hour (or so). In that drive, you'll glimpse hills, mountains, jungle and of course some amazing coastlines, too.
Most of it is Thai food – people serve up food from their homes on tables or small stalls just outside. One step up from this are the small restaurants, then ever larger ones. There are also markets, convenience stores, roving food, drink and pudding carts and even people on bicycles selling snacks.
You'll also pass by countless places where you can have a bite to eat. Countless isn’t an exaggeration. Take a closer look (or rather get your passenger to do this) at the buildings going by and you'll see that food is being served at many, many of them. It might seem as if you’ve arrived on an island of cooks; the entire roadside seems to be geared towards providing food of one kind or another.
You can safely say that Samui loves providing food for everyone, and that there won’t ever come a day when the island will collectively declare it’s had enough of cooking.
Foodstuffs are flown in from all over the world, satisfying even the most demanding of palates. You may have come to Samui as it’s a beach lover’s paradise, but you'll quickly find it’s a food lover’s paradise too. Delve into the pages of this month’s Wining & Dining magazine and you'll see just a few – a very few – examples of how good and how varied the island’s catering is.
With every conceivable type of food, you’ll sometimes find it hard to make a choice. And of course, not only is there Thai cuisine but virtually every kind of international cuisine, too.
Thai Wine in Oasis You will never really know a country unless you experience all it has to offer, and that includes eating local food and drinking local wines. This May, ‘Samui Wine Oasis’ in Chaweng Beach will be hosting its annual ‘Thai Wine in Oasis’ to help you get to know the delights of Thai wine and how it matches with Thai cuisine. Regarded as the highlight of the tasting calendar, this event showcases Thailand’s most respected producer - Chateau des Brumes, Village Farm Estate.
Samui Wine Oasis Restaurant Chaweng Beach Road, Chaweng centre in front of Chaweng Garden Beach Resort
For reservations please call 0 848 361 855
SAMUI
Graeme Malley Editor
Preeda Tuajob (Puy) Graphic Designer
Akaphon Phongninlaarphon (Don) Photographer
Seksak Kerdkanno (Klauy) Webmaster
Rob De Wet Feature Writer
Dimitri Waring Feature Writer
Natalie Hughes Feature Writer
Peter James Feature Writer
Nipawan Chuaysagul (Ning) Sales & Marketing Director ning@siammap.com Tel: 0 898 783 891
Henrik Bjørk Managing Director
Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6, Samui Ring Road, Moo 3, Bo Phut, Samui, 84320 Thailand Tel: (66) 0 7742 2201 Fax: (66) 0 7741 3523 email: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission from Siam Map Company Ltd. Whilst every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. c Siam Map Company Ltd. 2015
Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways. Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com
Mackerel is hugely popular throughout Asia, but has been largely neglected by the West. That’s all changing. These days everyone is waking up to this nutrient packed fish. As the number of tuna fish decline we are looking for alternatives, and mackerel is one of them. In Asia, Europe and the Americas supplies of mackerel are bountiful. In the Gulf of Thailand, the short mackerel, or as it’s called in Thai ‘pla tuu’, are plentiful so you’ll see them on every market stall in bamboo baskets, tucked up in threes with their heads bent down. Sometimes steamed, sometimes salted but always tasty, they are an essential part of Thai cuisine. Every household eats mackerel on a regular basis, and if you were to ask a Thai person what the national dish of Thailand is they may answer that it’s mackerel with chilli sauce. This is simple Thai home cooking at its best. The short mackerel are fried and served with rice and a chilli sauce made from shrimp paste, garlic, Thai eggplant, fish sauce, chilli and palm sugar. And if you want to be truly authentic, a couple of water bugs, which look like large cockroaches and are caught by the farmers at night, in the rice fields. They are easily recognised by their bluish-silver back and silver belly. The fish that you see in the bamboo baskets, while described as being steamed, have not in fact been steamed but preserved by boiling for a couple of minutes in salted water. Before refrigeration, fish preserved in such a way could last for up to two weeks, as long as they were boiled for a minute or so every couple of days. They were generally eaten fried and with steamed vegetables and rice. Indian mackerel is also widely used in Thai cuisine and prepared and eaten just like the short mackerel. The Indian mackerel can be found in the warm shallow waters of the Indian
Ocean and is used throughout South-East Asian cuisine. The most sought after mackerel is the Atlantic mackerel, which is commonly found off the colder shores of Britain. The Atlantic mackerel has a very high vitamin B content and a very low mercury content. Overall it’s very good for your health. If you are eating sushi and come across mackerel it may well be Atlantic mackerel that they’ve used. In Britain, Scandinavia and Poland it’s popular in tins, from which sandwiches and salads are made. Growing up in Britain I remember as a child eating mackerel sandwiches. The Thais also love their mackerel in a tin. You only have to look in any shop or supermarket in Samui and you’ll see the endless displays of the tinned fish. King mackerel can be found in the waters down the eastern coast of the United States, from the Gulf of Mexico to sometimes as far north as Maine. These fish are among the four that pregnant women and children should avoid, along with swordfish, shark and tilefish, because of the high mercury content. However they are one of the most sought after game fish along the eastern coastline of the United States. King mackerel has a reddish meat that turns to an off-white colour when it’s cooked. The skin is silver in colour and has no scales. The meat is not oily, unlike the Atlantic mackerel and has very fine flakes when cooked. The king mackerel only has bones on the sides and centre and these are easy to remove. In Thailand, it’s salted whole and sold as steaks. One of my favourite recipes is a fish curry using this salted mackerel along with green leafy vegetables. The Japanese Saba mackerel has to be another of my favourites. A simple dish, grilled Saba with grated daikon, or white Japanese radish with rice makes for a healthy and light lunch. The health benefits of this versatile fish are
numerous. Mackerel is rich in monounsaturated fatty acids and polyunsaturated fatty acids, and also low in saturated fats. In fact it contains almost twice as much omega 3 per unit weight as salmon. So eating this fish lowers your risk of cardiovascular disease and problems such as heart attacks, strokes, and arrhythmia. Eating mackerel also cuts your risk of diabetes. Mackerel contains a lot of what is termed healthy fat or monounsaturated fatty acids. These fats play a key role in controlling blood sugar levels in the body. Thus by eating mackerel on a regular basis you’re effectively reducing your risk of diabetes. Mackerel has also been found to improve brain function and stabilize mood swings in those at risk of depression. Studies have shown that it may also lower your chances of suffering from Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s. The high levels of potassium in mackerel help the body maintain normal blood pressure. Mackerel is one of a very few sources of natural Vitamin D and research has shown cancer patients with high levels of vitamin D in their bodies are more likely to survive. Though it’s been largely ignored by the western public as a prime fish, that may be about to change. Because of its versatility there are more and more recipes being inspired by mackerel. It’s able to withstand the strong Asian flavourings of chilli, ginger, garlic and lime and tastes great whether it’s grilled, baked, steamed or in a curry. And given its huge health benefits it should be on everyone’s menu. And at a relatively cheap price, it’s a great every day buy for the family.
Natalie Hughes
Please recycle or pass on to a friend.
A drink from Paradise...available on Earth
Located at Tesco Lotus Chaweng, Tesco Lotus Lamai and Central Festival 2 www.siamwininganddining.com
Catchh of the th Day One of Thailand’s most popular fish – the mackerel.
Romantic views, soothing sounds and classic Italian fare with a modern approach combine to please the most discerning diner. Olivio - a must for visitors and locals alike.
Olivio ~ beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort Chaweng Beach. Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500 www.siamwininganddining.com
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Bean Me Up The Coffee Club wows not just with great coffee but with its superb food.
Just a few years ago, it was quite hard to get a good cup of coffee in most of Thailand – and that goes for Samui too. All too often, the best you could hope for was a small cup of murky instant brew, along with creamer and sugar in sachets. Even when good quality roast coffee started appearing, it wasn’t just anywhere you could find it, only in certain resorts, cafés and restaurants.
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just what they needed. And they were right to make him a director; he has powered the business into what it is today – an international brand with an ever-growing presence.
The lack of good coffee struck many people as odd, as Thailand is actually a coffee-growing country, but most Thais used to prefer anything but coffee – tea, soft drinks and power drinks were all better ways to get a caffeine fix. But then a boom in coffee seemed to take place, and the coffee craze caught on, just as it had done in Europe and North America a few decades before. Coffee was here to stay, and not just that, cafés started springing up everywhere. And many more people started drinking it. So great was the demand for coffee that it also started attracting brands from overseas, and one of these is The Coffee Club, which originally made its debut in Brisbane, in Australia.
The Coffee Club now has 340 cafés across Australia, New Zealand, Thailand, New Caledonia and China. It’s been on the scene for almost 30 years, and they now sell some 40 million cups of coffee a year. You might ask what makes the brand so good, and it’s hard to give a definite answer – it certainly seems to be more than the sum of its parts, but if you try the coffee, you'll find it excellent. The Coffee Club has taken the time to perfect its own exclusive signature blend of flavours that keep customers coming back for more. Step into one of The Coffee Club’s cafés and you’ll find yourself in a relaxing atmosphere where you can sit back and watch the world go by, chat to your friends and delight in the excellent food. On Samui there are two Coffee Club outlets, both conveniently located in Chaweng. There’s one on the beach road, while the other’s nearby in Central Festival.
The Coffee Club was founded by two friends, Emmanuel Drivas and Emmanuel Kokoris. They were out on the town one evening and realized there was nowhere to get a really good cup of coffee. It would be a good idea, they decided, to fix that. Immediately they set about making their idea become a reality. After careful planning, they opened up their first store. It did well and they opened the next ... and so on. Though the two friends were both good at business, they realized they could do with some help and invited a Coffee Club franchisee, John Lazarou, to assist them. They chose him because he was full of drive, flamboyant and with ideas that they describe as being ‘far-fetched and seemingly unachievable’. In other words, he was
The Coffee Club is known for its great all-day menu, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, but keeping to the atmosphere of a café – casual and laid-back. Not just your average coffee and selection of light bites. They offer a wide array of dishes offering everything from pancakes and Eggs Benedict to gourmet sandwiches on ciabatta bread to Petit Mignon and fresh pasta. As you can see, the menu could easily belong in a restaurant – and quite a cosmopolitan one at that. Recently some new dishes have been added, with Brunch Tacos, a Ruben Sandwich and Poached Eggs and Asparagus. The food’s definitely not an afterthought, a few snacks to go with your cup of Joe. At The Coffee Club, they reckon that good coffee works anywhere –
after all it’s been in demand in Europe for almost four hundred years – but it’s the great food that helps The Coffee Club stand apart from other international café brands. It’s even taking off in the Middle East – an area where people certainly know about drinking good coffee. Once you step into a Coffee Club, you'll find yourself in a spotlessly clean environment, one that is very relaxing and welcoming. You'll be in good hands. And not just you; over the last two decades, The Coffee Club has donated millions of dollars to dozens of charities, much of it earmarked to fight diseases and help children in hospital. Also of great concern to the directors is the fact that coffee should have the stamp of approval for socially and environmentally responsible coffee production and sourcing. It is now accredited by UTZ Certified, a program enabling farmers to learn better farming methods, improve working conditions and take better care of their children and the environment. One of the best things about being on holiday is surely that you can relax and unwind. With The Coffee Club, you'll certainly be able to do both. And you’re sure to love not just the coffee but the food that goes with it, too. Who knows, perhaps once you're back home again, you'll find there may be a Coffee Club opening up somewhere near you!
Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7730 0563 (Chaweng Beach Road) or 0 7741 0505 (Central Festival).
Star of the Evening When it comes to romantic evening dinners it’s hard to beat Star at Silavadee Pool Spa Resort. It’s a romantic story. Some 20 years ago, a dedicated Bangkokian who loved to travel as much as possible, and enjoyed staying in the hotels en route, decided he’d like to make a dream come true. He wanted to create a hotel that would be a beautiful place to stay, with wonderful views. He’d stayed in places that he loved and knew first-hand the pleasures they gave; now he wanted to offer others a similarly satisfying experience. On Samui he found a spot that he loved – it was rather more inaccessible in those days – a rocky headland down in the south of the island. And over the years he made his dream come true. His daughter, Khun Phannapa Soonthonvasu, now runs the hotel that her father envisaged. “There was nothing at all here before” she says, “but bit by bit we built a hotel that offers everything he dreamed of.” The name of the resort, Silavadee, translates as ‘the beautiful rocks’ – and it truly lives up to the image we have of tropical hotels, with lush vegetation, swimming pools and a secluded setting. On 1st May this year, Silavadee celebrates its seventh anniversary. Over the years it’s acquired a cachet not just for providing excellent holidays, but also as an extremely romantic place to be. That’s not just for the setting, indeed beautiful, nor the very private feel of the
rooms, but also for the expertise that has gone into making some of the island’s finest dinner options for discerning couples.
is that the food is wonderful and the wine pairing is excellently done. Guests have no hesitation in recommending it.”
Silavadee has a wonderful open-air rooftop deck, simply and appropriately called Star. Just look up and you'll see hundreds of stars scattered across the night sky. Sea-breezes keep everything cool, as does being surrounded by water. There are just four tables which are niched into a shallow infinity pool. You can look across the water across to the sea and hear the waves on the rocks beneath. It’s a very soothing, restful sound. And you'll need to reserve your table if you wish to indulge in the fine dining option that is offered on Wednesday nights only.
The exquisite dinner starts with mixed seafood: Baked White Prawns, Salmon and Red Tuna in White Wine Pernod Sauce. It’s accompanied by some very select Japanese caviar and comes paired with a delicious French white wine, De Chansac Vieilles Vignes, Ugni Blanc. It’s followed by Silavadee Seafood Soup. Don’t let the name mislead you; it sounds disarmingly humble but turns out to be a rich and highly tasty dish. It’s a medley of the freshest Andaman seafood with a creamy tomato broth and is served with toasted garlic bread. The wine that it’s paired with is a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, Paso Del Sol Central Valley.
It starts with the resort’s weekly cocktail reception, which takes place from 5:00 pm until 6:00 pm, after which you'll head to your special table. This is the start of your evening: there are six courses ahead of you, each with wine pairing. (The price by the way is a very reasonable 1,990 Baht net, per person.) Khun Phannapa says that the evening is always very successful, with guests showing their appreciation in their comments. “We get a lot of very positive feedback,” she says. “The gist of it
Following these two dishes, you and your partner will be presented with an orange sorbet before moving on to the main course. And here you’ll have to make a decision. You can opt for Grilled Breast of Duck in Orange Sauce, accompanied by a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, also courtesy of the Paso Del Sol – it’s a highly delicious combination. Or maybe you would prefer fish? In this case, there’s Fillet of Salmon, in Pesto Mayonnaise Sauce, with spaghetti, and
for wine, an Italian Pinot, Cantine Atesine Venesie IGT. The evening ends with a sumptuous dessert, Raspberry & Vanilla Panna Cotta. After this you’ll want to linger over tea or coffee while continuing to enjoy the wonderful atmosphere and the superb views. There’s a further option to actually dine on the beach, which is a completely private bay, accessible by a wooden walkway. This option is available to just one couple per evening. Again you'll need to book ahead for this. The menu for this is a barbecue, featuring either Thai or western dishes. But back to Star. You might wonder what happens here on all the other nights. Well, there’s no fine dining as such, but you can enjoy Silavadee’s cocktails and tapas at the tables, or you can take a seat directly overlooking the sea itself. And there’s an array of bean bags for really indolent relaxation, too. Take your time eating and drinking some of the exquisite offerings that Silavadee has for you in this very romantic setting. As you gaze up at the stars you might well be wondering what could be better. Star sits atop Moon, the all-day dining restaurant, open from 6:00 am till 11:00 pm, a
Located in the beautiful Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach, our experienced chefs proudly present authentic Thai cuisine and Southern Thai dishes. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality at reasonable prices. Enjoy the tranquility of the beach, the twinkling stars and the whispering waves along with the beautiful music. A superb dining experience and great memories.
beautiful wood-panelled spacious dining room, which is contemporary and very laid-back. If you're coming from Lamai as a party of two or more, (or four if from Chaweng or Bophut) then the resort throws in a complimentary pick-up service. Otherwise, Silavadee is really easy to find. On the ring-road on the eastern edge of Lamai take the turning by the IT Centre and head up the small lane until you come to the resort, about a kilometre from Banyan Tree. Many guests check in to one of Silavadee’s amazingly comfortable rooms or suites for some seriously relaxing and romantic times, and then discover that there are some great dining options too, but naturally, you don’t need to be staying here to avail yourself of what’s on offer. Everyone’s welcome. For a truly magnificent dinner under the stars, then Star is a wonderful choice. It’s also very affordable!
Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7796 0555. www.silavadeeresort.com
(Fisherman’s Village) 16/16 Moo 1, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Tel: 077 430 030, 077 245 035 Free Parking!! Opposite the restaurant
www.siamwininganddining.com 5
Nature’s Gift The eye-opening uses of horseradish.
The use of horseradish dates back over 3,000 years as a treatment for tuberculosis, a flavourful accompaniment for beef, chicken or seafood, as an aphrodisiac and much more. The history behind this herb is both deep and mysterious. A prized possession, sharing lineage with mustard, kale, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, wasabi, and of course the radish. Horseradish is a perennial herb and will continue to grow season after season. Native to both south-eastern Europe and western Asia, horseradish is now popular worldwide. It can grow up to 1.5 meters tall and is harvested for its white root. Currently 60% of the world’s supply is grown near St. Louis, Missouri in the Mississippi river basin. Originally brought to the area by German immigrants in the 1880s, the city of Collinsville, Illinois holds an international horseradish festival each May. Horseradish has had many culinary and medicinal uses. In the middle ages both the root
and leaves were used as to treat a variety of ailments, and are still used as an herbal remedy in some cultures today. More often than not however, the horseradish is harvested for its culinary purposes. After harvesting, which is done primarily by hand, horseradish is preserved in vinegar. This prevents exposure to air, which causes the aroma to decrease, the root to turn dark brown, and the vegetable to become bitter tasting. When cooks use the term horseradish they are in fact referring to the grated root and vinegar mixed into one. Although the fresh root is said to be white, it is in fact beige in colour. When cooking, it should be firstly cleaned to remove the outer dirt. Once cleaned, cut the root from the tip (the remaining plant will last roughly two to three days refrigerated). As the preparation continues, the grating and crushing of the root will gradually hurt your eyes, nose and throat as an onion would. The use of vinegar will again help to balance this out. Never the less – beware!
Horseradish is one of the foundational spices, with freshly grated root added directly to recipes to add a zing of flavour. Horseradish is also consumed as a condiment. Served with a multitude of meals, to some it is the equivalent of ketchup … in other words it can accompany almost anything. It can be seen as a sauce (mixture of horseradish and mayonnaise or beets), can be found being used in various cocktail sauces, can often also be seen mixed with wasabi to create a sauce due to the scarcity of the wasabi plant, along with various other dips, dressings and sauces. There are certain health benefits to consuming horseradish, but you’ll be surprised to know just how many. To begin with, it contains dietary fibre, vitamins, minerals and anti-oxidants. Active principles have been found to be anti-inflammatory, and nerve soothing. Horseradish also contains good amounts of vitamin-C, with each root containing 41% of recommended daily intake. This helps protect
against infections and will boost your immune system. Additionally it helps protect against cancers and inflammation. It also works as a gastric stimulant, increasing appetite and advancing digestion. For a home remedy to correct an offset digestive tract, grate the root and squeeze the juice. Three times a day consume fifteen to twenty drops of this juice. It is also known to clear lung problems, coughs and asthma. Seasonally it can alleviate respiratory ailments related to allergies.
It is believed the term horseradish came from combining the word horse, which at the time had the meaning of strong, and the word radish. Ironically, the plant is actually poisonous to horses! For us humans however, horseradish remains one of nature’s best gifts. Whether you chose to use it for medicinal purposes or as an accompaniment to your meals, it is a gift that keeps on giving.
Alison Stephens
For another natural healing remedy, try using horseradish as a skin treatment. By using four ounces of freshly grated horseradish, one-quart buttermilk, and four ounces of glycerine, spots and blemishes are said to fade and even disappear. Let the mix stand overnight in a cool place. After shaking well and straining, place the remedy on spots of your choice. Before going to sleep wash your face.
Your private Holidays in Samui
THE SIAM RESIDENCE B o u t i q u e
R e s o r t
Thai & International cuisine in Lipa Noi / Koh Samui Phone: +66 (0) 77 420 008 | samui@siamresidence.com | www.siamresidence.com
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5-Star in the Village Everyone goes to Fisherman’s Village, but those in the know keep walking – to Hansar!
It’s one of the island’s main attractions. It’s busy most of the time. But on Friday, it gets hectic. That’s when they have one of the best ‘walking streets’ on Samui. Everyone’s there looking for bargains or seeing the sights. Stalls pack the streets, there are performers and live bands playing – there’s a tantalising carnival atmosphere throughout. Happily, there are many bars and restaurants along the strip, as taking all this in can be thirsty work. Food, too. You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to eats. But, right at the end, almost un-noticed amongst all this fun, sits Hansar. And that’s where the locals head when they need to take a quality break. The facilities are superb and the service, world-class. The spa suite is the height of luxury and yet with serious programs of holistic well-being, too. And, going by the simple name of ‘H Bistro’, the restaurant has become something of a legend since it opened. It’s worth mentioning that there are actually two restaurants here. H Bistro, as already outlined, takes up the lower floor of the two-storey block, butting up right against the beach road of Fisherman’s Village. About as close as you can
get to the sea without being actually in it, and with a great open-sided view over towards Koh Pha-Ngan. The upper floor is the laid-back Chill Lounge. Although this was initially seen as a kind of ‘meet ’n’ greet’ venue, it quickly lent itself to an alternative dining area to H Bistro beneath. Whereas the lower dining area is more traditional, with sturdy wooden tables and dining chairs, upstairs there are big comfortable sofas together with day beds and low tables, and the waiter service from downstairs means that you can enjoy your meal as well as being, literally, very laid back! Executive Chef, Stephen Dion, is a very modest man, preferring to beaver away like an artist in his garret behind the scenes, creating new gastronomic works and tweaking old favourites. That’s not to say he’s any kind of hermit; on the contrary, he’s often to be seen talking quietly with his guests and greeting new diners. But it means he’s the last person who’d ever stand up and shout about his skills – no doubt one of the qualities that previously prompted His Majesty the King of Jordan to recruit Stephen to be his personal chef. The menu here is quite superb,
being distinctly a light, clean bias towards French-Mediterranean cuisine, but with an added emphasis on seafood. In this case, that means live lobster shipped-in from abroad, or live razor clams and langoustines from Scotland, oysters from Japan and mussels from Australia, depending on what’s in season. Plus, naturally, Japanese Wagyu and Australian corn-fed beef. “I like to feature seafood,” Stephen observed, “because it’s what most people seem to want. Obviously, it’s because we’re an island. But it’s also a great favourite of mine. So as well as the locally caught items, I’m always keeping an eye out for something unusual or interesting. One of the current specials is the amazing yellow fin tuna. It’s darker and firmer than you’d expect, and the taste is fuller. Likewise, the swordfish is from Sri Lanka, and it stays really delicate and moist.” But to my mind one of the most fascinating sections of the menu at Hansar can’t be claimed by Stephen at all! It’s the Thai menu, courtesy of Chef Boonson. And if you enjoy Thai food, then this is an absolute must. It’s not fancy, there are
no pretensions to ‘fusion’ or other such fads, but it’s special on several counts. Firstly, it’s all made with quality, prime ingredients, unlike general Thai cuisine. And the difference that a plump corn-fed chicken or an imported cut of beef can make is simply startling. And second, the sauces and pastes are all Khun Boonson’s own recipes – again, using imported or top-quality ingredients. The combination of these two aspects makes the à la carte Thai menu really something to sample. But there’s an extra, added attraction, too. Titled the ‘Discovery Menu’, it’s a set meal for two people, beginning with ‘Yam Talay’ – seafood soup. But, in keeping with the gourmet approach, what you actually get is ‘seared Thai Gulf sea prawn, squid and mussels, together with tomato, red chili, celery and spring onions, in a spicy seafood sauce’. There is then a similarly excellent ‘Tom Kha Gai’ (coconut soup) followed by a choice of either ‘Pla Kapong Neung Manao’ (steamed sea bass) or ‘Zee Clong Kae/Moo Phad Prik Thai On’ (slow-cooked lamb or pork ribs in garlic). The dessert is ‘Thai Gluey Tord’ (batter fried bananas with maple syrup)
and a choice of tea of coffee to finish. If you love Thai food but have never had it prepared and presented like this, then this is where to go to discover a new dimension! However (and this depends on your view of life!) I’ve saved the best until last. The very chic beach bar is running a Free Flow Mojito evening every Monday night. There are a dozen alluring fruity flavours to go for, and the cost is just 450 baht per person, for as much as you want to sup. It kicks in at 7:30 pm, and you can wiggle your toes right through until 9:30 pm. Plus, come with four people and one person drinks for free! And that’s the best intro to the 5-star Hansar Samui I can think of. So next time you go to Walking Street – just keep on walking!
Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7724 5511. www.hansarsamui.com
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Vegging Out on Samui With a little know-how, finding vegetarian cuisine on Samui is easier than you think.
If you’re vegetarian it may seem a daunting task to travel to a country where vegetarianism is not so common. Indeed only around 3% of the Thai population would class themselves as vegetarian. In Thailand there are two terms used to describe vegetarian food. ‘A-harn jey’ and ‘a-harn mung-sow-ee-rat’. ‘A-harn’ simply means food and ‘jey’ is vegetarian food of Chinese origin. This food is an approximation of vegan food with meat substitutes generally made from tofu, mushrooms and wheat gluten. ‘Mung-sow-ee-rat’ means food with no meat but it can include eggs and dairy produce. It’s very easy to create vegetarian versions of Thai food, so there are lots of great tasty options out there. Also with the accommodating nature of the Thais themselves to their customers’ needs and tastes, eating vegetarian should be no problem at all. And on Samui there’s the added bonus of the increase in dedicated vegetarian restaurants, sometimes but not always linked to a health or yoga retreat. But let’s say you’re in the middle of Chaweng and want to go into one of the restaurants there but worry about them serving vegetarian food. You may think that with the language barrier it’s going to be hard to explain what you want, and
that you're going to end up frustrated. Most Thais will respect your requests if you ask in a polite and friendly manner, and with just a handful of phrases you can get by. The crucial word to remember is ‘pak’ which translates as ‘vegetable’. So while your friend may order ‘masaman gai’ or ‘chicken masaman’ you can simply substitute the word ‘gai’ or ‘chicken’ for ‘pak’ and order ‘masaman pak’ – ‘vegetable masaman’. On all Thai menus the last word is usually the main meat of the dish – whether it is pork (moo), shrimp (gung) or beef (neua). So all you have to do is substitute the type of meat with the word ‘pak’ and you’ll be understood. Many dishes use fish and oyster sauce so you can just say politely, ‘kor-tote ka’ (if you’re a woman) or ‘kor-tote kap’ (if you're a man), which means, ‘I’m sorry‘, then add ‘mai sai’ which means ‘don’t use’, followed by ‘nam pla’ for fish sauce and ‘nam man hoi’ for oyster sauce or the Thai word for the meat used (see above). If, like me, you also don’t want any MSG then the word to use here is ‘pungchuros’. With the upsurge in the number of wellness spas and health and detox centres on Samui, the number of vegetarian-friendly restaurants in Samui has grown dramatically. This is to serve
the growing demand among the guests and the residents of the island who are interested in a healthier lifestyle, which may also include a vegetarian diet. Some places go one step further and offer dishes for vegans. Here are just a few of the vegetarian friendly restaurants on the island that are definitely worth trying out. Phensiri Thai Bistro is a small, cosy restaurant that gets rave reviews for its food and friendly atmosphere. While it’s vegetarian-friendly it does offer meat and seafood dishes as well. Great if not everyone is your party is vegetarian. The owners also speak very good English so if you have special requirements they’ll suggest the best dishes for you. Located in South Chaweng, they also offer Thai cooking classes. The majority of the wellness spas offer vegetarian menus in their restaurants. Spa Samui Beach Resort in Lamai has many options at its Radiance Restaurant which specialises in vegetarian, vegan and raw food dishes, though they also offer dishes using meat and fish. They use locally grown produce or vegetables from their own organic farm in Chiang Mai. With the beach-side location it’s a great place to relax
while sipping a healthy smoothie. They have a second Radiance Restaurant in the nearby hills. Relatively new on the scene is Vikasa Yoga Retreat & Cafe on the ring-road between Chaweng and Lamai. Their restaurant offers up vegetarian alongside vegan and raw food. They use locally grown organic produce. They also offer seafood and non-vegetarian options. Smaller yoga centres on the island also have very good vegetarian restaurants, such as Marga Yoga & Wellness in the south of the island, which offers vegetarian dishes alongside raw food. And there’s also The Yogarden in Fisherman’s Village, Bophut. In Lamai there’s the very popular Lamphu Health Cafe, opposite the entrance to Tesco-Lotus, which offers dishes made from organic produce sourced locally in Samui. For vegans there’s Lamai Veggie that offers buffet style food and sometimes has a menu of Thai dishes, including dishes using meat substitutes, as well as Sweet Sisters Cafe in the south of the island that has vegan and vegetarian dishes on their menu. In Nathon there’s a small Thai vegetarian restaurant up the
side of Samui Mart. June’s Art Café on the ring-road in Bophut has vegetarian options and is very popular with tourists and locals alike. On Samui you’re never far from a local fruit and vegetable market – every town has one – and in that respect all visitors here are spoilt for choice in the great selection of fresh fruit and veggies available. Some are best visited early in the morning, when you'll have the maximum amount of choice and quality. Demand has never been higher for vegetarian food. It’s a global trend that has also made its mark in Samui. And while the majority of Thai people may not be vegetarian, there are lots of choices out there for those who are. Just remember the few phrases and you won’t go far wrong.
Natalie Hughes
CHAWENG BEACH LAND FOR RENT
Currently houses a resort but is perfect for redevelopment as a restaurant or wedding venue etc. Land for Rent: 15-20 years Land Size: 30x110m (Beachfront 30m) Chaweng Beach Road, Chaweng South
Centara Grand Beach Resort Samui
Poppies Hotel
Land for rent
The restaurant where every evening becomes a memorable occasion. Kirikayan Boutique Resort
Contact: Mr. Saroj 081 536 2015 Ms. Siri 088 882 5636 Mr. Wiroj 081 307 2122 E-mail: srn123456@gmail.com, sissysiri888@gmail.com, mpisit2600@gmail.com
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For reservations please contact: Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa, Koh Samui Tel: +66 (0) 77 428 300 Email: bophutsamui@anantara.com Skype: bophutsamui
Thai / Chinese Seafood Perfect venue for weddings and other events. Bang Por Beach Tel. 085 9468456, 077 602 227
Popping to Poppies A Samui legend comes up with yet another winner – at Poppies Restaurant.
Contrasts. When you come here, they swamp you. They talk about culture shock, but that’s too vague. You’ve spent 24 hours on the go. You’ve come in off the highway in the rain, struggled with bags, coats and scarves, queued, checked in, waited, and flown. And then in a few short steps, as you de-plane at Bangkok, it hits you. This is real. The heat grabs in your throat and your whole body sweats. Just a sleep ago you were all muffled up in a grey cold land. And now the sky is so blue it hurts. You’re hot, not cold. The air is thick with smells, not thin and dead. All the walls have gone, everyone’s outside in the sun, they’re all smiling – and you just can’t wait to hit Samui! Yes, for sure, coming here is a contrast in every way. And that applies to food too. Our little island has now become a gourmet paradise, with restaurants from beach-rustic to 5-star, and every national cuisine you could want. If you’re canny, the seafood was caught last night. If you’re discerning, the Wagyu is off the scale for tender. It’s a contrast in price too, as here fine-dining costs less than a pub meal back home. And, if you plan things well, you can dine like a king every night. At which point Poppies comes into the picture. Poppies Samui is not just an island legend - it’s also one of the most breathtakingly pretty resorts
you’ll find anywhere. It was initially the vision of John Taylor, who opened the original Poppies resort in Bali, in 1980. He initially met up with co-founder David Hill on Samui, in 1985, when they were both looking for land to buy But it wasn’t until they met again, in 1989, that the idea to build Poppies Samui was formed.
and Khun Wantanee, now ICO Thai Kitchen, began in 1994. And that speaks volumes!
Construction began the following year, and the resort finally opened in 1994. Since then it has firmly established itself as an island landmark. It was just about the first ‘boutique’ resort here, with its new concept of bungalows kitted-out to Western standards, and quickly made its mark with the quality not only of its accommodation, but of its outstanding service and cuisine, too.
You’ll want to go there at night. Things are different in the day. The contrast is keen. As that big yellow ball begins to sink, the hard, deep sky-blue softens. As the day cools, the sky turns cobalt. While it does, ever so gently the roof of the sky draws down. Things become smaller, closer and cosier. Dimensions are more compact. And, coming in off the road outside, Poppies is a joy. Suddenly you’re in a fairy-tale, with little gingerbread houses peeping through the trees, a myriad of lights in pools and twinkles, glowing and sparkling, painting the twisting tiled paths with their gleam.
Right from the start, the plan was to have a top-notch fine-dining restaurant. And over the years, Poppies Restaurant has featured the talents of internationally renowned chefs, and their legacy is still very much in place today. Most hotels and resorts expect a rapid turnover of staff – it‘s normal. But it’s always a measure of just how well-managed a place is, if staff are loyal and want to stay. And so here let it be said that, when it comes to eating at Poppies, the Restaurant Manager, Khun Renu, has been there since 1997, the Executive Chef in charge of International Kitchen, Khun Suwit, since 1998
The restaurant, simply of the same name, Poppies, is perched up, right above the sand. It’s only when you emerge from the twinkling greenery that you’ll suddenly realise just how very cunningly designed this place is. It’s actually on quite a small plot, but such is its layout that it’s only when you emerge next to the pool and by the restaurant that you’ll slip back into some sense of scale. Every night is a delight at Poppies, but for the highlight of the week, pop in on a Saturday. This is when they have their Thai Night. Folks come from far and wide to experience it. The traditional dancing show lasts for a leisurely two
hours. Musicians playing old traditional instruments accompany the six dancers. And there’s a super crafts corner, featuring the leatherwork, soap carving and wonderfully woven basketwork of local craftsmen.
Enough said; what more is there? It’s the prettiest place with the friendliest staff and the most fabulous food. Which, of course, you’ll find out for yourself – when you pop into Poppies!
But the real eating attraction (and something you can enjoy on any night of the week) is the fabulous ‘Kantoke’. The kantoke is a Thai style of dining where half-a-dozen small dishes of different foodstuffs are presented on the same tray – a kind of sampler, if you like. But here the chefs have elevated it to a rarefied dining experience that’s almost an art form in its own right. There are five different Thai options, (Traditional, Four-Regions, Seafood, Royal Thai) including a full vegetarian offering, and each of these are for two guests and come with two starters, three main dishes and a dessert, plus rice included.
Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 2419. www.poppiessamui.com
And the ‘Western’ section features a ‘Selection of Small Seafood Dishes’, a ‘selection of Small Poppies Specials’, plus the ‘Poppies Seafood Extravagance’. And this is simply stunning, with an array of Phuket lobster, prawns, squid, scallops, mussels, blue crab and tuna fillet and coming with a choice of baked or mashed potatoes or fries, and with a dessert to savour at the end, if you still have room!
Sabeinglae Restaurant
Sabienglae restaurants offer traditional al fresh seafood and cuisine cuisin in an authentic southern Thai style. Come and enjoy our unique dishes, many of which you won’t find elsewhere on the island, in a relaxing atmosphere. An experience to truly complete your holiday.
The Wharf Samui, Fishermans’s Village For reservation please call 077 430 094-5
Hin Ta Hin Yai, Samui Ring Road For reservation please call 077 233 082-3
Wimaan Buri Resort, Chaweng Ring Road For reservation please call 077 962 333
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Totally Tempting Treats Pad Thai restaurant packs in history as well as great tastes.
Weddings, Celebrations, Parties & Honeymoons 2014
River Prawn Tom Yum
Rock Lobster
Sunset Dining in Spectacular Surroundings
Sea Food Taco
Lamb Chop
Beef Lasagna
Phuket Lobster Thermidor
Carbonara Pizza
This epicurean dining nirvana serves up the finest catches from the sea so our guests can Enjoy breathtaking sunsets while discovering our culinary delights at The Terrace, one of Koh Samui’s best beachfront feast like kings. Pay homage to our specialty – the royal triumvirate of lobster, tiger prawns and dining destinations. oysters. A holiday or a visit to Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui would not be complete without sampling the food at Indulge yourself with a journey of culinary discoveries at Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai The Terrace. Nestled on the beach, this majestic open-air restaurant affords diners a perfect view of the spectacular Beach Samui. The Terrace perfectly blends a selection of Thai classics with international dishes. sunset over Laem Yai Bay and the distant islands. 10 www.siamwininganddining.com
Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui is the perfect destination for a dream island wedding, unforgettable honeymoon, anniversary getaway or private birthday party. Exchange vows on Koh Samui’s most beautiful sunset beach as the sky turns to a thousand shades of brilliant colours.
Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui Phone +66 77 421 721 resort.samuilaemyai@moevenpick.com www.moevenpick-hotels.com/samui-laem-yai-beach
While visiting Samui you'll probably want to try Thai food. You may have sampled the curries but one of its most delicious treats turns out to be neither a curry nor a rice-based dish. Pad Thai, or as it’s called in full, ‘kway teow pad Thai’ is one of Thailand’s most celebrated dishes. Simply put it’s stir-fried noodles. The dish is so good that one restaurant on the island has named itself after the dish. Pad Thai, Manathai Koh Samui resort’s signature restaurant freshly prepares each ‘Pad’ dish on the menu to order. The expert chefs can recount the history and recipes of the dishes they present and are extremely knowledgeable. The stir-fried noodles are prepared in a traditional way using locally obtained ingredients. But what exactly is Pad Thai? Firstly, the noodles are made from rice. Then there are various vegetables, bean sprouts, chopped firm tofu, peanuts, and egg, which are fried with eggs. The ensemble is then usually flavoured with tamarind pulp, fish sauce, dried shrimp, garlic, shallots and palm sugar. It’s good for you as well as tasty, and the dish
became popular during the late 1930s when the Thai economy was in a dire slump. People didn’t have much money and a rice noodle dish with its vegetables, bean sprouts, and protein turned out to be a quick fix, enabling people to eat cheaply and healthily at the same time. The government made sure that the recipe became well-known and encouraged street vendors up and down the country to sell it. In short the authorities did pretty much everything to popularize the dish. It certainly looks like they succeeded, and probably more than they ever expected to. Not only has pad Thai long since become a staple dish but it’s well-known outside the country too. The government also had a second motive in promoting the dish. It was part of a drive to reinforce a sense of Thai-ness in the country, boosting national pride and instilling a national identity. As such, you might think that the dish harkens back to a truly Thai heritage. But perhaps rather oddly, before the 1930s not so many people really knew about the dish. Rice noodles are in fact Chinese in origin, and most of the ingredients originally came from outside Thailand. Even the full name of the dish, ‘kway
teow pad Thai’ is a giveaway: ‘kway teow’ is Chinese – not Thai – for rice noodles. So the name literally means ‘Thai-style stir-fried noodles’. But even if its origins aren’t quite as Thai as people might think, it has become a national dish, and certainly shows no sign of losing its popularity. Pad Thai restaurant is a popular spot for all-day dining. It’s favoured by families as well as groups of friends and couples. The atmosphere here is very laid-back, with welcoming staff who are extremely helpful. The restaurant keeps long hours, opening at 10:00 am daily and closing at 9:00 pm. It’s very easy to find: as you drive along the ring-road from Chaweng to Lamai, you'll find it on your right just after the turning for Tamarind Springs. You can try quite a few variations of pad Thai; order with chicken, shrimp, pork, beef or seafood – each dish is succulent and tasty. To accompany your choice, you can order a papaya salad – another extremely popular Thai dish. The à la carte selection includes dishes such as spicy spaghetti with beef, pork or chicken and sukiyaki soup. And if you really don’t want to
have noodles, then you can opt for rice topped with basil along with a variety of meat or sea-food. For desserts, finish off with another Thai delicacy, coconut ice-cream, particularly satisfying on a hot day. The drinks menu is quite select and includes Thai beers Singha and Leo, and there’s also young coconut juice for a particularly refreshing beverage. The waiting staff dress in traditional Thai uniforms, and though it’s completely contemporary, the restaurant has a few features that recall Samui’s past. Check out the collage of photographs on the main wall and you'll see what I mean. The wall’s gently curved – think of one of those hyper-modern TV screens – and contains dozens of photographs, some from now, some from years back, paying tribute to Thailand’s rich heritage. The restaurant has a spacious interior with a covered terrace. Both areas are neat and uncluttered, adding to Pad Thai’s relaxed vibe. You’ll probably feel like lingering and there’s certainly no rush here at all. Views are of
Manathai’s colonial buildings, an oasis of old-world charm where walls adorned in cheerful yellow jasmine hues are complimented with soft white details to frame a vision of a bygone era of louvered windows, teak hallways and beautiful guest wings. With a wonderful setting and quality food, it might come as a surprise that the prices are so affordable. Simply put, you can eat a main dish here for 70 Baht (and prices are inclusive of VAT and service charge). If you’d like to try pad Thai for yourself, you'll easily find a restaurant wherever you are in Thailand, and even abroad it won’t be too difficult in many places. But you simply must try it at Manathai, since the restaurant has dedicated itself to making the dish in a number of extremely tasty ways. You'll probably soon become aficionados.
Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7745 8560-4. www.manathai.com
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Kitchen King Chef Thanatat Boonnao keeps Thailand’s finest culinary traditions alive at The Tongsai Bay. One of the most beautiful bays on Samui is home to Chef Chom’s Thai Restaurant. You'll find it on a hillside at The Tongsai Bay, one of the most spectacular hideaways on the island. The restaurant is named in honour of the resort’s very first chef, who comes from a family of cooks and was born with a great passion for cooking. You may even have seen Chef Chom on British TV; she appeared in Keith Floyd's series, ‘Far Flung Floyd’. She may not be at The Tongsai Bay any longer but she set a precedent for excellence which been handed down as inspiration to all subsequent chefs. The mantle has recently fallen on Chef Thanatat Boonnao, who’s more usually known as Chef Jaan. He holds much of the responsibility for running Chef Chom’s as well as the resort’s other two outlets, Po-lad Beach Bistro & Bar and, its light bites tapas bar, Butler. If you eat at Chef Chom’s you may well meet him, as he likes to know what’s going on not just in the kitchen but also in the dining room itself; he enjoys talking to guests and always tries to make time for this. He says, “The Tongsai Bay isn’t one of those anonymous hotels that simply provide service, however good it may be. We like to have a more personal touch.” He goes on to explain that the resort – it’s now in its 28th
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year – attracts many return guests. “They come back ten or more times, some of the guests,” he says, “and part of what they really like is the almost family-like feel to the resort.” He says that reflects throughout the resort’s staff, too. “Many of the staff were here when the resort was opened – and they’ve stayed ever since.” Working in a kitchen calls for a formidable range of skills, Chef Jaan acknowledges, but it’s certainly easier if you feel you’re part of a family. The workplace harmony spreads through the entire resort, making any stay here more memorable. Everything’s done to make guests feel at home and to feel relaxed. “Chef Chom’s itself is designed to make guests feel at home,” he says, “The restaurant and its courtyard are both spacious and filled with light, and there’s not that formality you see in some hotels.” Po-lad and Butler also reflect that same family feel. They serve excellent food, but it’s all done without a whiff of formality or pretension. For a five-star hotel, there’s no sense of stepping into an institution when you arrive here. The food is similarly of five-star quality, but behind it is not a desire to appear sophisticated but to be straightforward. Chef Jaan explains, “My style is basically that the food is simple and
nice. All the dishes have to use the best quality ingredients. It reflects the old traditional ways of cooking too – again simple, but effective.” Simple doesn’t mean easy, of course. Take the case of the pastes used for curries. It’s a cinch to buy them ready-prepared (and you can get some very tasty ones, too) and just use them as a base for a dish. He says some 90% of all restaurants do this, but here at The Tongsai Bay, everything is made from scratch. Some of the recipes are hundreds of years old, use simple Thai ingredients and taste just as good as when they were first cooked for royal diners. He cites the fact that guests also appreciate the skills of the waiting staff and the presentation of the food – it looks as good as it tastes. Chef Jaan himself seems to embody the simplicity he aims for: he’s a relaxed figure who is originally from Bangkok. He took to Samui life as soon as he arrived. “It’s just a very relaxing place,” he says. “When I have time, I go to one of the many beaches near here and soak up the atmosphere.” He points out the gardens at The Tongsai Bay, and says how green everything is. “This, for me, is much better than working in a city. Everything is set up so that people benefit from the environment and enjoy themselves. The
owner, Khun Thanakorn Hoontrakul, has put a lot of effort into everything you see here, as did his father before him. It’s a 100% green hotel. It’s a peaceful place to be. The management doesn’t seek to fill the restaurants here with loads of banquets and functions as it would disturb people and give a hectic feel to the resort. It’s better for the guests. And for me, too – I’m not rushed off my feet. And that in turn means I can spend more time with the diners, finding out what they’d like and if they're happy.” The location alone sets The Tongsai Bay apart. Close enough to Chaweng, yet secluded, nestling between two small headlands, it’s easy to get to. Just drive north out of Chaweng, follow the beach road, through Choeng Mon, then turn right at The Bank of Ayutthaya and head up the smaller road till you see the sign for The Tongsai Bay. Asked what diners particularly like, Chef Jaan cites the green, red and penang curries. “People love them and always say how tasty they are. It’s no doubt because we take great care in preparing them. No cutting of corners, and of course, as I’ve said already, these are all very traditional recipes made in traditional ways.” The resort doesn’t only have Thai food on offer.
If you're interested in international dishes at Po-lad, Chef Jaan recommends the Wagyu-braised ox cheek with mashed potatoes. They also have Kurobuta pork from Japan – it’s delicious, he says – and they also offer an excellent Wagyu burger. Once you’ve tasted the kind of food that Chef Jaan prepares, whether international or Thai, you'll want to return to The Tongsai Bay to savour more of the treats he has on offer. And you’re sure to enjoy the setting too, with its seascapes and beautiful gardens. Not surprisingly, both the resort and Chef Chom’s have a deserved reputation for excellence.
Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7724 5480. www.tongsaibay.co.th
SIP, SAVOUR, LOUNGE, AND LINGER Stay all day and move with your mood, exploring our range of indoor and outdoor settings, right on Samui’s beach with panoramic view of the coastline. Enjoy a casual lunch in the shade, experiencing our eclectic menu of international cuisine or lounge away the aſternoon on a sunken daybed in the sand, steps away from the beach. For evenings, COAST transforms into one of Samui’s most sophisticated dining experiences, showcasing grills and seafood. Aſter dark, the beachside ambience becomes candlelit and alluring with a sizzling collection of cocktails. The focus at COAST is always on views of the beach and your effortless glide through the day. Open Hours: 12:00 – 23:00 hrs.
www.centarahotelsresorts.com/csbr E: coast@chr.co.th T: +66 (0) 77 230500
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More Than Good Coffee It’s Thailand’s leading coffee company – but there’s a lot mo more ore to Boncafe than great beans! For most off you who h are reading di this, hi the h name Boncafe will not be a familiar one. But in Thailand, it’s the biggest and the best. The chances are that if you’ve stayed anywhere in Thailand for more than just a few days, you’ve already become acquainted with Boncafe in one way or another – even though you’ve not been aware of it! Because, in addition to producing world-class beans, blends and roasts, they also market an entire range of chocolate drinks, caramel sauces, butters, creams, frappes, juices and teas. Plus, of course, they supply a huge range of machinery and equipment that runs from gleaming industrial monoliths, right through to something that any of us would be proud of in our kitchens. The Boncafe saga can be traced back to the early 1960s, when Swiss-born Werner Huber started to import Arabica and Robusta beans into Singapore. In 1962, he formed a company which he named ‘Boncafe’. In its first year it was a humble enough affair; just four staff blending and roasting the beans in a shaky little building with a tin roof. But there was a keen demand for his product and the company grew rapidly. It expanded into new premises and took on more staff. They then opened another small factory plus a warehouse for storing the raw
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materials, finished i l together h with i h the h fi i h d product. d More small plants followed, and in 1978, ready to expand outwards into Malaysia, the company went public and issued shares. Boncafe’s success continued, and they subsequently moved into Hong Kong and Australia, before eventually establishing a factory in Thailand, in 1993, south-east of Bangkok in the province of Chonburi. And since that time the company has become Thailand’s biggest coffee conglomerate, and can be seen everywhere under their universal slogan, ‘Swiss quality, Thai elegance’. Strawberries, grapes, potatoes, tomatoes, coffee – none of these are things which are usually associated with Thailand. And yet they all grow plentifully in the cooler and more temperate northern region, in the vicinity of Chiang Mai. In this part of Thailand there’s also just the right altitude and climate for growing coffee beans, and in particular the higher quality ‘Arabica’ variety. The other type of coffee bean, ‘Robusta’, is happy to grow in the warmer conditions found a little further south. And so between the two of these, the Chonburi plant creates a superior blend of coffee which is mild and not at all bitter, due to a careful combination of the
two types off b bean. Th The result l is i widely id l available il bl throughout Thailand, in several roasts, from the milder breakfast variety through to the dark-roasted espresso, in the form of beans or also as ready-ground or in pods, and in quantities suitable for both catering and domestic use. It would be natural to assume that you’ll have to hunt for a Boncafe outlet to avail yourself of these coffees. But due to some vigorous promotion and marketing they’re also available in the majority of big supermarkets, and readily accessed at all branches of Tesco Lotus, Makro and Big C, as well as at dozens of smaller independent outlets. But it’s not only coffee they’re producing. As time has gone on, newer trends and lifestyles have created demand for a wider product range. And so, today, you’ll also find teas (peach, lemon, apple and green tea), orange and pineapple juices, chocolate frappe powder and ‘Bonchocco’, a rich and creamy 3-in-1 fortified cocoa mix. Plus the exquisitely sweet range of Torani caramel sauces that are ideal to top off all manner of sweets and desserts. However, a glance around any Boncafe outlet and showroom will instantly reveal an
iimpressive i range off shiny hi and d serious-looking i l ki hardware. This is all engineered abroad, in Switzerland, Italy or America, and imported and maintained by the company. All the quality hotels (and very many smaller ones!) use this equipment, as it’s of paramount importance to be able to rely on all those thousands of cups of breakfast coffee being delivered in a reliable and timely manner. Boncafe has a shrewd company policy to go with the sales of these, and provides maintenance contracts which come with a 24-hour emergency repair service. Additionally, Boncafe will also undertake to service, maintain and repair machines which have not originally been obtained from them – and this is an aspect that’s worth its weight in gold, as there are very few companies who are prepared to offer such a service. Boncafe also runs a comprehensive set of training schemes for baristas, both at beginner and advanced levels. There are frequent and regular barista competitions held not only in Thailand, but throughout Asia. And it’s a most unusual event, even at international level, that doesn’t have finalists or winners trained by Boncafe! Right at this moment, if you’d like to take a peek at YouTube, Boncafe is brewing up a storm of a different kind as they work their
way through ‘Coffee War’, a competition (also being screened on cable TV’s Samui Channel) where baristas from different local restaurants and coffee shops battle it out in a series of tests and trials to find the top coffee expert. And there’s more! The company runs regular promotions on new or existing products or equipment. And by the time you read this their very well-engineered Vitamix blender will be on offer for a limited period at a promotional discount. To check it out you’ll need to pop in to their Samui showroom, in Bophut, just across from the ring-road entrance to The Wharf. And while you’re there, cast an eye over their other goodies, too. Like I said at the start, Boncafe is famous for a lot more than just very good coffee!
Rob De Wet For more information phone: 0 7742 7486-7. www.boncafe.co.th
Experience the very best in authentic Thai cuisine at Chef Chom’s Thai Restaurant at The Tongsai Bay Chef Chom's serves truly authentic Thai cuisine with an emphasis on local southern Thai cuisine. Wherever possible, ingredients are sourced locally and dishes are prepared from scratch. This real Thai taste is the pride of the kitchen, and dishes are not 'watered down', the taste of Chef Chom's food is just the way Thais would have it.
Chef Chom’s is open daily for dinner from 7pm to 10pm. Tel: +66 (0) 77 245-480 www.tongsaibay.co.th
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What a Load of Tripe Strange foods from around the world.
When you’re on your travels, a trip to a new country can mean trying the local delicacies. Wonderfully fresh sushi in Japan or genuine pasta dishes in Italy spring to mind. But there are other foods out there that may not appeal to you quite so much. Here is a short list of some of the strange food around the world, because there are lots of weird and wonderful delicacies out there. For the cheese lovers among you, how about some casu marzu? It’s made from a beautiful round of Parmesan cheese, and so far sounds pretty tasty. But leave it out for a few days, attracting all the cheese flies in the vicinity and you’re left with a wheel of rotten cheese (the literal translation of casu marzu is rotten cheese) filled with live cheese fly larvae. You’ll be glad to know that the cheese flies not only lay their eggs in the cheese but break down the fat in the parmesan so that it’s softer. It’s a particular delicacy in Sardinia, so if you’d like to try some this is the place to head to. Staying in Europe, smalahove is a Norwegian dish that is served just before Christmas. The skin and fleece of a sheep’s head is burnt away and the brain removed. The head is salted then boiled or steamed for about three hours. Half the sheep’s head is one serving, and is eaten alongside mashed potatoes and vegetables. Typically the eyes and ears are eaten first because they are best eaten hot. In some preparations, the brain is cooked inside the skull and then eaten with a spoon or fried. It is illegal nowadays to use an adult sheep’s head and only
a lamb's head may be used. Not because of ethics but because of concerns over disease. You’ve heard of extreme sports? Well this is considered an extreme food and usually eaten these days either by tourists in search of a thrill, or die-hard traditionalists who still view the food as a delicacy. Haggis is a traditional Scottish dish, consisting of a sheep’s stomach filled with the minced heart, liver, and lungs of the animal along with spices, oatmeal and onion. This is then boiled for approximately three hours and served with potatoes and turnip. There have been some very modern takes on the haggis if you wish to try it out. How about haggis dipped in batter and deep fried with chips, or a haggis burger, or a pizza with haggis topping? Tempted? There are also vegetarian variations, using nuts and pulses and various vegetables. Travelling over to the Americas, escamole is a Mexican delicacy and is sometimes referred to as ‘insect caviar’. It’s made from the larvae of ants that are found on the tequila plant. The larvae are harvested from the roots of the plant. Huitlacoche is an ingredient that is used in a lot of Mexican recipes, most notably quesadillas. It’s a black fungus scrapped from corn. Doesn’t sound very appetizing, but apparently it’s delicious and as an added bonus it’s packed with nutrients. It can also be served as is, or in a patty with corn and onions. A brain sandwich turns out to be an enduring specialty in some parts of Missouri, USA. It looks
like a huge burger. Thinly sliced calves brains are coated in batter, deep fried then served in a hamburger bun with all the usual toppings. They are particularly popular down the Ohio River valley where you can find quite a few diners still serving them. Kissner's, a bar and eatery in Defiance, Ohio, has had on its menu what it calls their ‘infamous’ brain sandwich, since 1928. Indeed one story has it that an instructor at Defiance College would famously hold his last class each year at Kissner's where he and his students would drink beer and he would offer to buy a brain sandwich for any student who would care to try one. Now there’s a generous teacher for you. Nowadays it’s banned in the rest of the country over fears of mad cow disease. Century Eggs, despite the name, are not a hundred years old, though they have been left for a long time. Duck or quail eggs are preserved in a mixture of clay, ash, salt and quick lime for weeks and sometimes even months. These are served on special occasions in China, and have a strong sulphur and ammonia odour. Balut is a duck embryo that is boiled and eaten from the shell. This is a popular street food in parts of South East Asia. And it’s now being used in haute cuisine, and high end restaurants, as well as in pastries. In the Philippines, balut eaters like to season their eggs with salt, garlic and chilli. In Vietnam they like the eggs with lime juice, salt while the Vietnamese prefer mint leaf. The age of the developing embryo also
varies depending on preference. A younger embryo means no hard beaks or bones, and an older one looks more like a duck. A-Ping is a street food that has been rapidly gaining in popularity in Cambodia since the 1990s. Tarantula spiders are bred or harvested from the forests. They are then fried and seasoned with garlic and chilli. The legs are crispy but the body has a delicate white meat that has been described as tasting like a cross between fish and chicken. The abdomen part is full of a brown paste that some suggest not eating while others say it’s a delicacy. It’s probably full of eggs and excrement but there’s no definitive answer on the matter! Or how about, Tong Zi Dan Virgin Boy Wee Eggs! As the name suggests these are made by boiling eggs in the urine of prepubescent boys. They are a traditional delicacy in Dongyang, China. Every year in the spring time, the urine of the young boys, preferably under the age of 10, is collected from school lavatories and market places, in buckets set out for that purpose. The eggs are then boiled and can fetch double what a normal egg does. The Chinese believe these eggs improve blood circulation, increase body heat and generally reinvigorate the body. Tong Zi Dan was declared a local intangible cultural heritage in 2008. But one wonders by whom. Sannaki is very popular in South Korea. It’s a dish made from a live small octopus that has been cut alive into bite-sized pieces and is
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served immediately, usually lightly seasoned with sesame and sesame oil. The octopus pieces are so fresh that they are usually still squirming on the plate. Because the suction cups on the arm pieces of the squid are still active when the dish is served, choking is a hazard from eating this dish if the cups suck onto the side of the throat. But diners like the feel of the suction on the inside of their mouths. However there have been incidents where people have died from choking on this food. I’ve left my own favourite to last – because while it’s not gag inducing and features no insects, urine or live animals, it’s just plain weird. In 1861, ‘Miss Beeton’s Book of Household Management’ was published, and it’s here that you can find the recipe for a toast sandwich. It’s made by putting a buttered slice of toast with salt and pepper between two slices of untoasted bread. You may be adventurous and add egg, sardines or carrots. In 2011, Britain’s Royal Society of Chemistry hosted a toast sandwich banquet and named the dish ‘Britain’s Cheapest Meal’, a title it still holds today. If you’re ready for an eating adventure then the world is your oyster and so much more. As a child, my mother would feed me tripe and elder, regularly. That translates as boiled cow stomachs lining and steamed cow udders. So when you think about it who is to judge what is considered strange?
Natalie Hughes
Topping the Thais
The new face of a traditional and very v loca local al beachside restaurant – Sabienglae nglae hits hitts the town! Not so long ago there were only two sorts of restaurant on the island, fighting each other for dominance. They jostled to be out on the front, up in the limelight and the most noticeable. These were the ones that sat side by side along Chaweng Beach Road, each trying to look more attractive than their neighbour. Flashing lights, dancing girls, caves, grottos and pirate ships all competed together. Because this type of restaurant was chasing down the tourist dollar. The other sort had an entirely different presence. They never advertised because they didn’t need to. And they were scattered, unseen, all around the island. A fairyland of twinkling lights and intimate woodland-screened salas, hidden out of sight behind a thicket of trees. A narrow, unsigned track, winding down towards the beach. Multi-coloured strip lights hanging on a tall, blank concrete wall. I remember once, when the manager of a local hotel gave me a map of Samui – hand-drawn and written in the Thai language. There were ten or 12 dots marked around the island. This was what he gave to all his new Thai employees, and he spent time translating it for me. It was where to find all the best Thai restaurants around Samui. And the biggest of the spots marked on it was the name ‘Sabienglae’.
Most of the other names on that map have long since disappeared. But Sabienglae was legendary then, and still is today. Its roots remain, along with the original restaurant, down that little narrow track towards the beach, near Hin Ta Hin Yai in Lamai. And at the heart of it all was one man and his wife. Khun Amnart toured the local fishermen to select the best and freshest of each day’s catch, and his wife set up in the kitchen and cooked them. The location was rustic; eight plastic tables and chairs shoved into the sand at the edge of the water. The spices, sauces, dips and pastes were superb. Thai locals flocked there to dine. The menu expanded and more tables were added, more staff, too. The only time you ever saw a ‘farang’ there was when his girlfriend took him out to the best seafood restaurant on Samui. But you did see Thai families from the mainland that had come to Samui, just so they could eat at this restaurant. Times change and things move on. And one of the current trends is now for gourmet restaurants to offer simple Thai menus, but using only the best of ingredients. Instead of stringy ‘house chicken’ from the local market, it’s corn-fed organic birds. Massaman curry avoids the usual sticky sugar sauce and features
Japanese Wagyu beef or New Zealand lamb. And, yes, obviously, anything that has some flavour is better than no flavour at all, and a tender cut of meat is preferable to chewing shoe leather for 20 minutes. But the new Sabienglae restaurant, now right on the best tourist strip of them all, has come at this from quite a different direction. It’s located at The Wharf, in Fisherman’s Village, in a prime spot. Fronting the sea, and with a pleasantly intimate upper floor, high above the madding crowd. It is really modern and chic, warm and friendly and looks, in fact, very much like an inner city wine bar anywhere in the world. But it’s been pulling visitors and tourists like never before. It’s still based on exactly the same recipes and menu as they have down among the plastic chairs on the sand in Lamai. But now there are prime ingredients being used here; imported mussels and meats, and live lobster and king prawns waiting to be taken out of their tanks. And the same super fresh seafood each day. Only now, the staff can speak English and their glossy menu is in Chinese too. The menu is excellent - huge and descriptive and with photos to identify each dish. And it’s still enthusiastically seafood-based. It’s what
people want, expect and demand on an island paradise. But along with the usual Thai sections of stir fries, soups, spicy salads, noodle dishes and curries (and it’s a super selection of all of these), there are also the international offerings. You’ll find Euro soups and salads, pasta dishes, German schnitzels and a whole range of steaks from shark or tuna to filet mignon. There’s a big choice of sandwiches and snacks, including a whole array of burgers and even fish and chips. In addition, there are daily specials on chalkboards outside, which are not on the menu. The wine list is comprehensive yet unpretentious, featuring a substantial range of selected red and whites, and with 17 of them currently listed at less than 1,000 baht. Cleverly, effortlessly and with success, what Khun Amnart has managed to do here is to take a successful and traditional local Thai restaurant and convert it to the best of both worlds; prime world-ingredients, good wines and spirits, a superbly relaxed cosmopolitan location and décor, and with very good service indeed. And a note about this: those staff who can speak English are working at the front of house, dealing with the public and they are attentive,
polite and very friendly. The ones who are still in training do all the running to and from the kitchens, learning the job and the language as they go. A highly effective set-up, but one that’s not always seen. You will see the restaurant. Because you’ll go to Fisherman’s Village – everybody does, at least once during their stay here. And it’s more than likely you’ll eat there. Perhaps you’ll enjoy your meal and just assume this is normal. But if you are at all familiar with Samui and if you understand anything about Thailand, then you’ll know immediately that this is special. There are hundreds of small Thai restaurants here that are good. There are a few of them that are excellent. But there is only one that has been topping the Thai restaurants on Samui for the last 20 years. And that’s Sabienglae.
Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7743 0094-95.
www.siamwininganddining.com 17
The Winee Page Confessions of a wine snob.
When it came to Australian wine, shamefully, I was once a terrible wine snob. But in my defence, I am going back to the early1980s, when I was young, impressionable, spotty, pretentious and straight out of hotel school. I started working at a well-past-its-best, but iconic, hotel overlooking the picture postcard Avon Gorge in Bristol. And my colleagues, who were mainly French and Italian, and much older than me, schooled me in the wines we sold in the opulent restaurant, at surprisingly high prices. Predictably, the wines were typical of the day - French Bordeaux’s and Burgundies, vintage dry Champagnes, horribly sweet Piesporters and Mosels (including the grinning ‘Blue Nun’) from Germany, Chianti in the basket covered bottle, and Mateus Rose in the ‘lamp stand’ bottle. What excited my colleagues were the classic old world wines, and new world countries, such as Australia were dismissed as a matter of course. Mind you, these were the same, rapidly approaching middle-age, Mediterranean men, who would dress in brightly coloured and suggestively tight trousers, puffy open neck shirts with big collars, and medallions to decorate their sweaty cologne drenched hairy chests, to spend a Friday night chatting up overweight, pale, Pernod drinking English girls,
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dancing around their handbags in a Bristol city centre disco. Nevertheless, they instantly turned up their noses at any wine that was not considered a traditional European classic, rejecting newcomers as obvious copies and unsophisticated. Tannic fruity Shiraz and oaky Chardonnay? No thanks. But yes please to Amontillado sherry, Mosel Riesling and Loire red wines. At the time, I liked to think of myself as an up-and coming food and beverage manager, and I bought into the whole classic French cuisine accompanied by old European wines being far superior. I left after a couple of years and became involved in the far more trendy side of the 80s restaurant business. And inevitably, my horizons broadened. But still, Australian wines had not quite caught on in England. French wine still had a firm grip on the market. I remember fresh crisp Muscadet becoming very popular in the, then-thriving, restaurant lunchtime trade. These were the days of the yuppies on generous business expense accounts, two-hour lunches, and drinking alcohol before returning to work did not seem to be an issue. At this time, Australia, as a country, was considered uncultured. TV programs and films often depicted it that way. And many wine critics claimed Australian red wines were lacking. They
Samui Ring Road
Lamai
didn’t reflect terroir, they were over-manipulated and the white wines were too oaky. In 1990, I visited Australia for the first time, and was amazed. Pleasantly surprised by both the quality of the food and wine, and how bloody nice everyone was. (I was later to visit New Zealand and had an equally eye-opening experience.) Instantly in love with North Queensland, I landed a job in a small, but prestigious, restaurant in magical Airlee Beach. It was called ‘Charlies Round the Bend’, and I believe may still be there in some form, it’s opposite the marina, for those who know the town. I was exposed to the wonderful world of Aussie wine, going to tastings, and mixing with some of the refreshingly down-to-earth people in the business. Ever since, I’ve had a soft spot for Australian wines. At first it was the white wines: Hunter Semillons, Rieslings from Pewsey Vale. Then, it was the lighter reds such Mornington Peninsula Pinots. But soon, I found myself falling for the classic red wines of South Australia. Sturdy wines that impressed me immensely, like the Rockford Sparkling Black Shiraz and Yalumba Tricentenary Grenache. It was marvellous to discover how well some Australian wines aged, such as a Wolf Blass Black Label, which tasted
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like a Rioja Grand Reserva crossed with a Medoc. I was well aware of the Penfolds name, but never fortunate enough to taste Grange. However, I soon discovered that nowhere makes Shiraz as fine as South Australia, and this grape has become a firm favourite of mine.
Surely, no other wine-producing country would be so diffident about its riches. If you go to a restaurant in the Languedoc, they don’t sell Bordeaux. And go to one in western Sicily and they don’t have wines from the other side of the island!
Of course, Australian wines have changed over the past 25 years. The Chardonnays especially are much fresher and less oaky. And big brands, such as Jacobs Creek, have risen to fame. But the biggest change is in me. I’ve learned to appreciate wine based on what is in the glass, and not what is on the label. In my 20s I thought I was discerning, but in fact, my judgments were based on other people’s opinions. It was much like how a teenager approaches music - knowing the music you don’t like says as much about you as the music you do like. When you’re young, it’s important to have strong opinions, especially about things you don’t really understand. Today, I still appreciate European wines, especially Spanish and Italian Tuscan reds, but I drink more Australian red wine than any other.
Knowing the wine trade, a possible explanation is that the new generation of sommeliers is seeking to make their mark by breaking with tradition. It’s a way of rebelling, but it will not last long. Australian classics will soon be rediscovered. Besides, Australia is now firmly established on the wine world map, blessed with unique styles from the Barossa and Hunter Valleys and Victoria. Australia has Cabernet Sauvignons (and Cab blends) to rival the Medoc. And Chardonnays and Pinots that compare favourably with the best of Burgundy. It’s great that Aussies are so un-chauvinistic about foreign wines. But the truth is if I opened a restaurant in Australia, I wouldn’t stock a single foreign wine. Why would you need to?
Peter James
Which is why I followed with great interest the hoo-ha in Australia last year, about the trend for fashionable restaurant wine lists to ignore local wines in favour of imports and obscurities. Odd.
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Silavadee Pool Spa Resort
Silavadee Pool Spa Resort presents a wide range of restaurants and bars featuring a variety of cuisines to suit all tastes. Premium cocktails and selected wines are also available in each outlet.
STAR A stunning rooftop bar where you can sip our signature cocktails and enjoy some snacks while watching the sunset or gazing at the stars above. Open: 17.00-23.30hrs.
The Height
Sun Deck
Wine and Cigar Lounge
Oering an extensive menu of delightful Thai cuisine, the restaurant has both air-conditioned and open air seating options, all with stunning views of the surrounding sea. Open: 17.00-22.30hrs.
Exclusive dining on the deck with breathtaking views.Enjoy International delights in a romantic se ing with your loved one. Please reserve in advance.
Refreshments, cocktails and snacks with a selection of premium wines and cigars to enjoy the breathtaking view.
Open:18.00-22.30hrs.
Open: 17.00-23.30hrs
Silavadee Pool Spa Resort 208/66 Moo4, Koh Samui, Sura hani 84310 Thailand Tel: (+66) 077 960 555 Fax: (+66) 077 960 055 www. Silavadeeresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com
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Monday - Cowboy Steak Night Assorted BBQ Meat Buffet Entertainment: The Barge Band Tuesday, Friday and Saturday Lobster Basket Set: 3,300 for 2 persons Seafood Basket Set: 2,300 for 2 persons Inclusive of Salad, Soup and Side dishes Entertainment: Duo Band Wednesday - Hawaiian Seafood Night Variety of Fresh Seafood & BBQ Meat Buffet Entertainment: Polynesian Dance and The Barge Band Sunday Chef Creation Set Dinner and A La Carte Menu
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Rice Barge Authentic Thai Cuisine
Fine Beach & Hillside Dining at Samui's Newest Venue Quality Thai, Seafood & International Dishes The Ultimate Samui Dining Experience!
The Barge Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: thebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com
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It’s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & Spa Tuesday Night- Siam Kingdom Thai Night. We invite you to experience a variety of traditional Thai dishes. T Price THB 850 per person. Thurs ren Thursday Night - East Meets West. Enjoy our chef’s special buffet creations. Price THB 950 net per person. Children 6-12 years old half price. Entertainment: Polynesian Show & Mariposa Duo. Thai Cooking Class Learn how to cook 3 authentic Thai dishes with our Thai Chef. Price THB 1,500 per person Inclusive of chef hat, apron, certificate and recipe. Fruit Carving Class Price THB 1,500 per person. Inclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate. Daily Happy Hour Beverages Special offer 50% off (Except wine, Corona beer, all spirits by the bottle) Pool Bar 1.00 pm - 2.00 pm & 4.00 pm - 5.00 pm. Prasuthon Restaurant 6.00 pm - 7.00 pm. Lobby Bar 7.00 pm - 8.00 pm & 10.00 pm - 11.00 pm. Romantic Private Dining Dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress. Thai menu THB 5,000 per couple. International menu THB 6,000 per couple. Advance reservation required
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