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Food, Glorious Food On Samui you can savour food from the heart of the island as well as all around the world.

The interior of the island is a mystery to even those who were born on Samui, and it might as well be a blank part of the map. It’s hard to explore it simply because the thousands of dirt tracks that provide access look as confusing as a maze in a book of puzzles. Only the farmers seem to know their way around. It’s just as well that they do, because the heart of Samui is home to many of the fruit and vegetables that you'll be (hopefully) enjoying while you're here.

You'll find a vast array of tropical delicacies waiting for you – just visit any market to see what’s on offer. I’ll warrant you'll be finding new tastes that you’ve never experienced before. Once it’s brought down from the mountains, local produce graces the tables at every restaurant.

At the same time, it’s been decades since Samui solely relied on its own produce. Nowadays, food from all over the world arrives by ship and plane, and enables menus to be astonishingly diverse. You can now enjoy not just produce from the island and the mainland but the best from much further away. From Italian truffles to Catalan cured hams to Japanese miso - the list is seemingly endless. And new products and ingredients are being flown in all the time. And then there are the wines and spirits - equally diverse, and from all round the world. This month’s Wining & Dining shows just what Samui’s capable of when it comes to tempting your palate. Enjoy!

Catch of the Day

SAMUI

The humble yet tasty sardine!

Graeme Malley Editor

Preeda Tuajob (Puy) Graphic Designer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon (Don) Photographer

Our planet is in trouble. Waste and pollutants are affecting the land and the seas. Excessive emissions lead to acid rain and greenhouse gasses. Global weather patterns are breaking down. Overhunting and overfishing have increased the numbers of endangered species.

Shells and corals are collectors’ items. Entire families of fish are dying out – the Atlantic cod has all but disappeared, and halibut, skate and tuna are going the same way. In fact there’s only one family of fish which is breeding faster than we can kill them or eat them. And that’s the herring. There seem to be about 100 different variations of this family, including the anchovy, the sprat, the shad . . . and the sardine.

popping out an average of 100,000 eggs, once every year. When you consider than in just one school of sardines alone there can be countless millions of females – and that there are millions of schools across the world – then it sounds like life is sunny if you’re a sardine.

way from the moderately-sized bass, cod, salmon and tuna, through to ocean giants such as swordfish, sharks and whales. However, dine as they might, the numbers of the sardines are so vast that for every one that meets a fishy end, a thousand more survive.

But, alas, it doesn’t quite work like that.

Sardines are at the bottom of the food chain and feed entirely on micro-organisms. And the very density of the way they group themselves together in tightly-packed schools means that everything that’s bigger than they are only needs to open their mouths and charge! Not counting the millions of fishing boats, the number of natural predators run into the dozens; right the

Except for one teensy problem. The main way that they differ from their bigger relatives, the herring, is that these little fish are temperature sensitive. They need cooler water, between 15 and 18 degrees Celsius, to begin their spawning cycle. And, although they’re found right across the world, there are regions, and periods of time, where over the last 70 years or so they’ve seemed to die away almost completely. This

happened in the seas around Europe towards the end of the 1940s. In those days they were more-commonly known as ‘pilchards’ (their Latin name is sardinia pilchardus) and their plenitude made them a poor-man’s staple foodstuff during the deprivations of the war years. In the late ’40s they virtually disappeared from around Europe, and the general opinion was that they’d been over-fished. But scientists now know that a general drop in sea temperatures in that period was most probably the cause.

The sardine population tends to come and go.

It’s the smaller cousin of the herring, growing up to about 15-25 centimetres in length, but with a life span of around 12 years. And, like its cousin, it breeds prolifically, with females

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Rob De Wet Feature Writer

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Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6, Samui Ring Road, Moo 3, Bo Phut, Samui, 84320 Thailand Tel: (66) 0 7742 2201 Fax: (66) 0 7741 3523 email: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission from Siam Map Company Ltd. Whilst every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. c Siam Map Company Ltd. 2015

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This seems to have been happening again over the last six or seven years. But while you’ll hear Americans lamenting their vanishing sardines, the Brits are dancing around and singing with joy. In the year 2000, there were virtually no ‘pilchards’ to be seen anywhere along the coast of Britain. But over the next decade they resurged. All throughout the Mediterranean, in all the coastal villages and on street corners, hordes of little old ladies were to be seen squatting alongside clay pots of glowing charcoal over which skewered sardines were sizzling in the sun. And the holidaying Brits, who had developed a taste for this, suddenly found tins of ‘sardines’ now stacked high on their supermarket shelves.

Across the pond, however, the opposite has been happening. The traditional fisheries and canneries of the southernmost American states have fallen silent of late. It’s all been blamed on the annoying vagaries of El Niña, causing the temperatures to drop across the Equatorial

Pacific region – which in turn has made conservationists howl about the world being out of balance. Well that might be so for America, but the rest of us are doing very nicely, thank you.

The oceans around India are teeming. And South Africa has been hanging out the flags for the fifth year in a row in celebration of their annual ‘Sardine Run’, which has new become a major tourist event. This happens in June and July when millions of sardines form a frothing frenzy on their way to the spawning grounds, from Cape Town up to Durban on the east coast. As far as the eye can see, the water is glittering with fish and foaming with predators, and people flock in their thousands to marvel at the sight. And also gorge themselves on fried fish freebies, no doubt!

Which brings us to the final point: sardines are really good for you. There’s a lot of concern today about increasing levels of mercury being

seafood fresh on Samui each day you’re really spoiled for choice. Make the most of it! Because, alas, all good holidays come to an end. And when you’re back in the cold and damp, remember the humble sardine. It’s only little, but it’s as tasty as they come!

found in fish. And the higher up the food chain you go, he higher the mercury levels, as fish eat smaller fish that have in turn eaten smaller fish and so on. But the herring family, including sardines, lives on tiny organisms and plankton, making them just about the safest fish you can buy. They’ve got vitamins D, B2, B3, and B12, and also contain a surplus of iron, calcium, Omega 3 fatty acid, copper, selenium and choline. This effectively means that a regular intake of sardines strengthens bones and teeth, and the proteins supply your body with amino acids to fortify cell-building. And the Omega 3 fatty acid stimulates the growth of collagen and elastin, nourishing and hydrating your skin and hair follicles. Plus they taste good!

Rob De Wet

And probably the best thing is that the ones you’ll find in tins can be just as nourishing as the freshly-caught alternative. But you’ll have to shop around, especially in this part of the world.

There’s not much of a demand for them here.

And why should there be? With so much

Romantic views, soothing sounds and classic Italian fare with a modern approach combine to please the most discerning diner.

Olivio - a must for visitors and locals alike.

Olivio ~ beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort Chaweng Beach.

Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500 www.siamwininganddining.com

3

The Real Deal?

How authentic is Thai food on Samui?

The best part of any holiday for many people is the food. Sampling the local dishes and exploring all the tastes. But as you tuck into your wonderfully aromatic green curry, have you ever wondered just how authentic it is? Or for that matter what authentic might even mean?

If we’re looking at the ingredients used in Thai cooking on Samui there can be no doubt that it is authentic. The base ingredients of all Thai cooking, in all regions, are lemongrass, coriander, galangal, ginger and Thai basil, with splashes of fish sauce to add a bit of saltiness.

In Southern Thailand there is more use of coconut, palm sugar and seafood simply due to availability, and on Samui we have some of the best seafood, whether it’s at small barbecue places or in high end restaurants. Freshness is the key to Thai cuisine and all the restaurants can buy their seafood from the markets dotted around the island, or even right on the sea front, as you see in Nathon, with freshly caught crab and fish on sale every day.

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There are some who say that it’s not the ingredients that make a dish authentically Thai, but that to be truly authentic it should be a traditional royal recipe - that these very old recipes are the only authentic dishes and that the recipes are being lost through adaptations. If this is the case then there are very few outlets of authentic Thai cuisine, perhaps only a couple.

Interestingly, one renowned Thai chef and popular TV personality, Chef McDang has different views on the matter, himself being born into the royal family. He expresses the view that royal cuisine as such is not so different from everyday Thai cuisine, there is just more attention to detail in the preparation and presentation of the food. So every seed, pip and fish bone is removed from the meal before it’s served. Considering how time consuming this is, I’m sure that not many places would go this far.

As for taste, well Chef McDang states that royal Thai cuisine is tamer in spiciness than the food you’ll find on the street, extremes are not appreciated. That being said most people

unaccustomed to the fieriness of some Thai food would still say that it’s spicy.

There are others who say that the only truly authentic Thai food is street food, and that restaurants throughout Thailand not just on Samui have become too Westernised and have toned down the spices. It’s true that some restaurants have cut back on the chilli factor. As one restaurant owner explained, “We cook the food according to who has ordered it.” So when a visitor orders a dish they will cut the number of spices, since most are not used to this overload of chilli and garlic. And it’s to the diners advantage, there’s nothing worse than ordering a dish, looking forward to eating it and then when it arrives it smells fantastic but one mouthful and you can’t taste anything else. I know this has happened to me. If you are a fan of very hot then you can always ask for it that way, but I do have to warn you, that even those who say they love spicy food cannot take the heat of a handful of chillies, combined with several garlic cloves. Just for some idea you can

sit in a local Thai restaurant on the island, one packed with local people and your eyes can start watering, so powerful is that sting of several chillies being fried up.

Personally for authentic Thai food I would suggest that you hit the streets of Samui and try the dishes on offer at the street stalls. And check out the small restaurants that the Thais frequent.

There you’ll find the home style cooking that Thailand is famous for, because for me authentic would have to include the preparation of the food itself. You’ll see at the roadside restaurants the actual preparation, right from the grinding of fresh spices using a pestle and mortar - no modern food processors here.

And the same goes for many of the restaurants on the island. The idea behind all Thai cooking is to build up the taste and flavour of the dish, so firstly the chillies, garlic, ginger, and any other spices go into the hot wok. They’re quickly heated up, but ask the cook how long they need to cook this for and he or she will

simply say until it smells good. Then comes the main ingredient of the dish whether it is meat, fish, vegetables or rice. It’s all fried up quickly, keeping the crunchiness of the vegetables. Then when it’s finished a dash of fish sauce may be added and the dish is flipped onto the plate ready to eat, piping hot. This is authentic Thai food for me on Samui.

I would have to say that the only food you cannot truly call authentic Thai on the island would have to be Thai fusion, because it’s an attempt to do something new and hybrid. Thai cooking is all about home cooking, freshness, using local fresh ingredients. The debate on the spiciness and the lack of spice in some places will no doubt rage on. But what matters in the end is that you enjoy that fabulous green curry and all the other delicious food on the island.

Natalie Hughes

Don’t Miss The Boat The Boat@Samui offers superb Thai-Chinese cuisine in a beautiful setting.

It’s a big moment when you finally decide that you want to open a restaurant. There are so many factors to be taken into consideration, so many things to get exactly right, that for most of us it’s a daunting prospect. How to even begin?

Most people agree that one of the foremost considerations is location. The setting alone can decide its fate. On a tropical island, the best locations are going to be along the shores. But here on Samui most of the coastline has been snapped up, making it extraordinarily difficult to find a great beachside location. The people behind The Boat@Samui have been fortunate to find an idyllic spot fronting a deserted stretch of sand, and as well as this, a great cooking team that serves up a delicious array of food.

The owner and manager, Khun Sarinrat Phoonsub, more usually known simply as Khun Waew, knew she was incredibly lucky when she found the location. She fell in love with the setting, as it reflected exactly what she’d hope to find if she was dining out by the sea: a palm-fringed beach, wonderful views across the water and plenty of tranquillity. She has, by the way, considerable experience of the hospitality industry, and has previously run villas, resorts and serviced apartments. She’s from Bangkok, but decided to set up on Samui as she likes the

island so much. “I love Samui and the people here,” she says. “I really couldn’t have wished for a better place, with such a great view.” The restaurant is on the north coast, and it’s a cinch to find. As you drive from Maenam to Nathon on the ring-road, it’s about three kilometres from Natural Wing Health Spa & Resort, on the right-hand side of the road. Look for the large, very red sign, and you can’t miss it.

Khun Waew decided to opt for a Thai-Chinese style restaurant and has a chef who’s an expert in cooking this type of cuisine. “Many Thais are of Chinese descent,” she explains. “So they’re really Thai-Chinese, with large concentrations in both Koh Samui and Bangkok. In Bangkok I’d say about 80% of the people there are Thai-Chinese. The food they eat reflects this; you'll find sweet and sour sauces, and there’s less of a tendency to use hot spices. The typical Thai curries, such as green and red curry have no counterpart at all in Chinese food, so you won’t find curries in Thai-Chinese cuisine. We’re offering food that reflects the intermingling of two cultural traditions.”

The restaurant gets its name from her husband’s love of the sea and ships – he started working on boats at the age of 13. You'll not find any

gimmicky nautical influences at the restaurant though; it just offers seriously good food and drink. The Boat@Samui is open every day, starting at 9:00 am and closing at 10:00 pm.

The menu has plenty of choice and you're sure to find something that you'll like. It tends to follow the Thai pattern of menus with dishes listed by type. So you'll find a section on fish, pork, chicken, vegetable dishes, curries, squid, king prawn, rice and so on. You'll find treats such as Fried Fish with Sweet Chilli Sauce, Tom Yum Tiger Prawn and Black Butterfish with Sweet and Sour Sauce, just to name a few examples. You can also find some international dishes just in case you're really hankering for Western food.

The Boat@Samui serves up dependably good, highly tasty food thanks to its culinary team, who’re really practiced in cooking Thai-Chinese food, and know exactly how to bring out its deliciousness. The waiting staff are very attentive and will look after you, ensuring that you have the best possible time there.

When the sun starts to go down, people come for cocktails and long drinks. It’s a great place to sit with a mojito and watch the sun setting and the stars coming out. The restaurant is gently lit

at night, providing a relaxing atmosphere. You can sit in the shade of a beautiful old Malabar tree. The beach here is sandy with views out to Koh Pha-Ngan. The Boat@Samui directly faces the tiny islet of Koh Tae Nok, an enigmatic shadow that rises from the sea, beautiful yet well off the beaten track. You can also see to your left, the contorted shapes of the islands that form the Angthong National Marine Park.

And because it’s so scenic it’s also a great place to hold weddings. With a gazebo or flower arch right on the sands, it’s a romantic spot to mark a very special day. And something else that’s very important and too often overlooked: it’s decidedly quiet here. The beach is usually deserted, as the are a, though beautiful, has never experienced much in the way of development. Khun Waew can also offer couples a romantic dinner on the beach with flowers and decoration. For this, you’ll be right on the sands, just a few steps away from the sea itself. She can also stage all sorts of other parties and events. “We’re open to requests,” she says, “and most things are possible; it’s just a question of working out exactly what’s desired for the event.” She caters for a very international clientele, with French and Chinese clients, as well as Russians, British and Australian guests.

Located in the beautiful Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach, our experienced chefs proudly present authentic Thai cuisine and Southern Thai dishes. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the tranquility of the beach, the twinkling stars and the whispering waves along with the beautiful music. A superb dining experience and great memories.

There are always special promotions on, and these change on a regular basis. Currently these consist of inexpensive lunches (they’re served until 2:00 pm daily). Fried Rice with Crab, Phad Thai, Som Tam with Chicken Wings are just three examples of meals that you can have. The prices are very, very good – they start at 79 Baht for some of the dishes. There’s also a special takeaway menu, which is sure to please, and it’s also highly convenient as Khun Waew’s team will deliver locally, for all orders of 500 Baht or over. If you're staying in a villa, it’s a great option to have.

Since Thai-Chinese food’s so delicious, it’d be a shame to miss The Boat@Samui – not only is the food so great, but the view is superb and the welcome is always warm.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information telephone 0 7760 2227 or 0 859 468 456.

(Fisherman’s Village) 16/16 Moo 1, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Tel: 077 430 030, 077 245 035 Free Parking!! Opposite the restaurant

www.siamwininganddining.com 5

What Makes it Unique Discovering the secrets of Greek cuisine.

Greece is said to be the birthplace of European civilization, and as with any great civilization worth its salt, its cuisine has lasted the test of time. It’s very traditional and you can eat Greek today and know that the dishes you’ve chosen date back hundreds of years, and are basically prepared in exactly the same way. The secret of Greek food is that it takes quite common, inexpensive ingredients, and uses herbs and spices to make them highly tasty.

Greek cuisine is part of a much wider Mediterranean cuisine, and is increasingly well-known as being an extremely healthy way to eat. Fish plays a great role in the Greek diet, while meats rather less – at least traditionally.

Pulses, beans and vegetables form a good part of the Greek diet, and olives are used to make dishes tastier. Olive oil is often used for drizzling over foods, rather than for frying. Rich sauces don’t play a major role; the Greeks like to keep

things very simple. (Ironically the dish that stands foremost in people’s minds, moussaka, is the very opposite of this: with its meat base, white béchamel sauce and cheese, it turns out to be an incredibly filling dish – and one that’s hopeless for the waistline.)

The Greek language may be difficult due to its different script, and you can feel a bit lost when encountering the culture for the first time, but Greek cuisine itself is hardly mystifying. With so many ingredients available, seemingly no matter where you find yourself in the world, it’s a cinch to get started with cooking Greek. Some of it is incredibly easy yet leads to very satisfying dishes. Take the classic Greek dip, tzatziki, for example. It’s one of the easiest dishes to make and takes no more than ten minutes. De-seed a cucumber, grate it, squeeze dry and then add a cup or so of plain, unsweetened yoghurt, which you can first strain for a few hours through

muslin cloth to thicken it, if you wish. Then just add salt, pepper, a little olive oil and either the juice of lemon or some vinegar, and garlic to taste and you have the basic dip. It’s still good without the cucumber, by the way.

Greece has plenty of good wines, though these remain sadly unknown outside the country, apart from retsina, which is flavoured with pine resin. Ouzo is a drink that everyone’s heard of and a good many people have tasted – but it’s hard to find outside Greece. How many bars do you know that even stock ouzo? Not many, right? For whatever reason, the drink has languished in semi-obscurity - perhaps without justification. It does however have its own rituals. Hardly arcane ones, yet faced with a bottle of ouzo, most people won’t know how to drink it or what to drink it with.

Ouzo is traditionally served with water and ice – exactly like pastis. It is a clear, transparent drink

with a powerful smell of anise. You add the water until you’ve diluted it to suit your own tastes (ouzo turns an opaque white once water is added), and then you add the ice. If you do it the other way round, pouring water onto the ice, you'll end up with an oily skin on top. If drunk with retsina, it can lead to memorable hangovers!

Greece is a very traditional country and has a will of its own. It takes pride in what it does and especially in what it does well – food and drink.

Its recipes have been handed down through generations and though there may be many a regional variation, the simplicity of Greek food is all important. That’s why it needs so little adornment to be satisfying; why it sings off the plate. It has a quiet confidence in its ability to please and to nourish, and that’s maybe why it’s always somehow better to eat it in the place where it originated. It always seems to taste

better if you're eating it in some taverna overlooking the Aegean, on a busy quay, watching the boats go in and out.

While it may not have caught on big-time on the international scene as some cuisines have done, it’s certainly popular. If you’ve never tried Greek food, you'll love the amazing dishes with their enduring appeal. There’s almost always a restaurant within striking distance. And if there isn’t, it’s none too difficult to go ahead and cook it for yourself – no special equipment is required, no hard-to-find ingredients, no skills that are hard to master. It’s all about enjoyment and celebrating the good times in life.

Dimitri Waring

Your private Holidays in Samui

THE SIAM RESIDENCE B o u t i q u e

R e s o r t

Thai & International cuisine in Lipa Noi / Koh Samui Phone: +66 (0) 77 420 008 | samui@siamresidence.com | www.siamresidence.com

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Coasting to Success Coast Beach Bar & Grill raises the bar for quality dining by the sea.

Luring the island’s residents as well as holidaymakers, Coast Beach Bar & Grill is an impeccable example of just how good a beachside eatery can get. It’s located in Centara Grand Beach Resort Samui, one of the island’s premier hotels. It’s easy for resort restaurants to become set in their ways, but not so Coast – it has a culinary pull that extends way beyond the doors of the resort.

on the sands and has great views. We offer top level food and drink – but everything’s at affordable prices. We’re also constantly working on the restaurant and the food to make it a better experience for guests and diners.”

The menu is agreeably long and well-provisioned, and there are way too many fine dishes to recommend in the space of this article.

When you arrive, you'll notice the vibe is definitely Mediterranean; it looks like it’s stepped out of a glossy architectural magazine, with its cosmopolitan design and chic appeal.

It’s very contemporary, and features a relaxing colour scheme with plenty of turquoise and red.

Coast’s a great place to come and chill out, whether it’s for a snack, lunch, dinner or simply a drink as the sun goes down.

You can opt for Thai cuisine, with appetizers such as Gai Satay Thai Style - Marinated Charcoal Grilled Chicken Skewers with Peanut Sauce or the excellent Khao Soi Chiang Mai Crispy Egg Noodles with Chicken Curry and condiments – the selection of the country’s favourite dishes is sure to please.

In the expert hands of Guido Campigotto, a seasoned restaurant manager, it’s definitely upping the ante of what beach bars can offer.

Guido’s an Italian who arrived from London, where he ran several top-notch restaurants, before he was snapped up by Centara. He’s the ideal guy for the task of running a venue that already has a cachet for both innovation and sophistication. Says Guido, “Coast is specifically set up to be a laidback beach venue; it’s right

International foods are in abundance. You can dine as lavishly as you wish; Guido, along with Chef Luis Zamora, who has an extensive knowledge and background of different cuisines, import high quality ingredients from Australia, the US and Europe, as well as making excellent use of local products. Incidentally Coast has what must be one of the best stocks of cheeses to be found anywhere on the island.

Guido and his team are as knowledgeable about cheeses as some restaurateurs are about wines!

Dinner at Coast is a real treat; you can dine on Angus beef, lobster from Maine, fillet of salmon or Japanese sushi and there are plenty of vegetarian options too. The menu seems to have been conceived to take into account all tastes, and there’s bound to be at least a couple of choices that will prove irresistible. Desserts are equally good.

Coast has its own wood-fired pizza oven, and you'll find a range of tasty pizzas to tempt your taste buds. Naturally you can also find pasta dishes. Try for example, Black Truffle Infused Risotto with Asparagus Spears, a highly succulent combination that’s both delicious and filling.

Wines are something that Guido and his team don’t skimp on. They've selected the best of an international medley, always keeping in mind the cost and quality ratio. Staff are on hand to help you if you're not sure which wine might be best with your lunch or dinner. A wonderful range of cocktails also awaits – after all, what’s a beach bar sans drinks?

Evenings, you'll find special events for Coast’s guests. Details are on the restaurant’s website, but typically might consist of jazz performances, a top-notch barbecue, a wine and cheese buffet

or a seafood night. As you can see, there’s no set routine here; it’s all about fresh ideas and inspiration. At the time of going to press Guido is preparing the July – August schedule which will be full of innovative and exciting surprises for everyone to enjoy during lunch or dinner.

Guido and his team also put on a fantastic Sunday brunch on the first Sunday of each month (so in June it will be on the 7th). It features a round-up of favourites, and though these may vary depending on seasonal availability you’ll find items such as Tasmanian salmon, Alaskan king crab, tiger prawns, imported cheeses and an array of delicious cold cuts. Sushi and oysters are also on the menu, along with perfectly barbecued meats. The brunch is extremely popular with holidaymakers but it’s also very much something that residents enjoy, making this a great place to gather. Come hungry and prepare to linger – it’s a veritable feast. Every need is catered for, and families with children are naturally more than welcome.

Coast is open daily from 11:00 am till last food orders at 10:30 pm, with the restaurant closing an hour later. It’s easy to find. Head down Chaweng Beach Road until you come to Centara. If you’re coming by car, there’s a large car park just inside the resort. For access to

Coast, you don’t even need to go through the reception; there’s a sign-posted path that takes you directly through the gardens of the resort to the restaurant itself.

Last but not least, Coast caters for the romantically minded. If you reserve a little in advance, Guido will be happy to set up a decorated table just for you and your beloved, where you can dine on beautifully-prepared dishes. The atmosphere’s very intimate; your table will be candle-lit and everything will be done to make sure you have a wonderful evening.

Coast is altogether a satisfying experience, and whether you’ve packed your bags for a holiday here at Centara, or are coming here from elsewhere on the island, you'll love what this beachside restaurant has to offer. Whether you're a gourmet, a romantic or just in search of a great-tasting sandwich, Coast will more than satisfy your expectations.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7723 0500. www.coast-samui.com

WAT

www.siamwininganddining.com 7

Aim for Here

It’s great to just cruise around exploring the island – but it’s much better to aim for somewhere super like The Siam Residence!

One of the best things about Samui is its size.

It’s not so tiny that there’s nothing to see. And it’s not so big that it gets too confusing. In fact, the worst that can happen is that you spend a few minutes working out which direction you’re heading on the ring-road! And with GPS and Google Maps on your smart phone, it makes getting around quite easy. Every day, out on the ring-road, you can see folks in twos or fours drifting around and seeing the sights. It’s tempting to get away up the mountain. Or down a side-lane towards the beach. Because half the joy is the free open road, and the fun of not knowing what you’ll find.

But the downside, and the other half of it, is that a lot of the time you’ll find not much that grabs you! Once you get off the beaten track, there’s a great deal of nothing on Samui – and that’s the attraction, of course. But pause for a moment and think about this. Wouldn’t it be a good idea to enjoy your adventure, to explore and tour around, but have something to aim for

as well? A tranquil, beautifully set and pristine little beach, unspoiled and whisper-silent, with huge shady trees along the sand-line – but with the discrete comfort of beach loungers, plus a pool with freshwater shower, and a really nice and affordable little restaurant, too?

And this is exactly what you’ll discover when you glide in through the tasteful gates at The Siam Residence, just south of Nathon. It’s not right out in view of the road. But it’s really easy to get to; the directions couldn’t be simpler (and are included at the end). It’s only a small place, but it’s perfectly formed, and in a lovely location. And it’s something of a quiet star, too, a bit of an institution, having been around more than 20 years. But what makes it a particular kind of oasis is that the quality of hospitality and service, not to mention friendliness, is second to none. It’s Austrian-owned and with Swiss management. And this alone speaks volumes.

Unlike a great many resorts which have been around for a generation or more, the pedigree here means that there’s an ongoing maintenance program. More than this; every few years or so there’s been an upgrade in the resort’s fabric – meaning that the lovely little bungalows now feature the latest bathroom fittings and stone basins, and even the restaurant’s been upgraded. Along with the massage spa and the bar area, these modernistic sites are made from octagonal glass which merges unobtrusively with the surroundings. But to top it all of – a little waft of Europe! Unusually, there are huge, spreading fruit trees along the beach line, which throw a refreshing dapple of shadow. And there are big, green lawns surrounding the pool, complete with neat bursts of colour from Euro-style flowerbeds. It’s a real little oasis!

The resort’s General Manager is Benjamin Lehmann. And he’s ready to extend a very warm welcome to guests dropping in from outside.

“Everyone’s very friendly here,” he told me.

“And we’re happy to extend our hospitality to include the use of our pool or our massage sala.

A great many people simply aren’t aware that we’re here, and they drive on past, looking for a way to the beach via one of the main streets.

People have told me that they’ve been disappointed there. But here the sand is not only spotlessly clean, but it’s as private and secluded as you’ll find anywhere. Plus,” he added with a smile, “we’ve got all the refreshments you could want, as well as sensible prices on meals and snacks at the restaurant – even the big mixed grill is just over 300 baht!”

At their Pavilion Restaurant, as with most things on Samui, dining is a laid-back and casual affair.

But the fare is first class, with a full range of Euro and International dishes as well as a substantial Thai menu. There are also all day breakfasts, soups, salads, pasta dishes, mixed grills and barbecue dishes – and the seafood offerings are fabulous. It’s bought-in fresh from the nearby seafood market every morning and features a selection of snapper, barracuda, mackerel, squid, prawns, king prawns, rock lobster and crab, when available and in season.

And you can make the choice of having any of

these (or a seafood basket) prepared for you by deep frying with garlic and pepper, cooked over a charcoal BBQ, prepared with sweet and sour sauce or opt for the ‘healthy menu’, which features three different preparations.

The resort has free high-speed Wi-Fi throughout, making it an ideal place to drop in for an hour or so while you’re on your tour around the island, and take some refreshment while catching up with your emails. Or even a gentle massage followed by a dip in the sea and a blissed-out nap in that sandy dappled shade.

It’s really very easy to find – a lot easier than it is to explain how to get there, in fact! Heading south, out of Nathon, follow the sign to the hospital, turning right at the first set of traffic lights (Samui Immigration office is right on the corner here). Take the first left turn, with a 7-11 on the corner, where you’ll see a signpost pointing to the resort. And the entrance to The Siam Residence is about 700 metres along this road, on your right.

Or, much simpler and faster, just enter the following GPS co-ordinates into the top line of any web-browser – 9.513784, 99.936623.

(Making sure you don’t add the full stop at the end of the sentence.) That will take you to Google Maps and pinpoint the exact location.

As a further incentive, if you fancy dining out on the lawn, under a star-spangled sky, then every Wednesday evening there’s a selection of soothing songs, courtesy of a strolling troubadour and his acoustic guitar. And that’s yet another reason to make your tour around the island anything but aimless!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 0008. www.siamresidence.com

CHAWENG BEACH LAND FOR RENT

Currently houses a resort but is perfect for redevelopment as a restaurant or wedding venue etc.

Land for Rent: 15-20 years Land Size: 30x110m (Beachfront 30m) Chaweng Beach Road, Chaweng South

Centara Grand Beach Resort Samui

Poppies Hotel

Land for rent

The restaurant where every evening becomes a memorable occasion.

Kirikayan Boutique Resort

Contact: Mr. Saroj 081 536 2015 Ms. Siri 088 882 5636 Mr. Wiroj 081 307 2122 E-mail: srn123456@gmail.com, sissysiri888@gmail.com, mpisit2600@gmail.com

8 www.siamwininganddining.com

For reservations please contact: Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa, Koh Samui Tel: +66 (0) 77 428 300 Email: bophutsamui@anantara.com Skype: bophutsamui

Thai / Chinese Seafood Perfect venue for weddings and other events.

Bang Por Beach Tel. 085 9468456, 077 602 227

www.siamwininganddining.com

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Seriously Original Hidden gems are hard to find, but it’s worth looking out for Shasa and Beyond the Sea!

Weddings, Celebrations, Parties & Honeymoons 2014

River Prawn Tom Yum

Rock Lobster

Sunset Dining in Spectacular Surroundings

Sea Food Taco

Lamb Chop

Beef Lasagna

Phuket Lobster Thermidor

Carbonara Pizza

This epicurean dining nirvana serves up the finest catches from the sea so our guests can Enjoy breathtaking sunsets while discovering our culinary delights at The Terrace, one of Koh Samui’s best beachfront feast like kings. Pay homage to our specialty – the royal triumvirate of lobster, tiger prawns and dining destinations. oysters.

A holiday or a visit to Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui would not be complete without sampling the food at Indulge yourself with a journey of culinary discoveries at Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai The Terrace. Nestled on the beach, this majestic open-air restaurant affords diners a perfect view of the spectacular Beach Samui. The Terrace perfectly blends a selection of Thai classics with international dishes. sunset over Laem Yai Bay and the distant islands.

10 www.siamwininganddining.com

Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui is the perfect destination for a dream island wedding, unforgettable honeymoon, anniversary getaway or private birthday party.

Exchange vows on Koh Samui’s most beautiful sunset beach as the sky turns to a thousand shades of brilliant colours.

Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui Phone +66 77 421 721 resort.samuilaemyai@moevenpick.com www.moevenpick-hotels.com/samui-laem-yai-beach

Sometimes it’s rather too easy. You stroll around, find somewhere nice, sit down and eat. Then the next night you do it again. Samui’s a gourmet’s delight and there’s something for everyone. But, of course, it’s not all plain sailing. For every eatery that’s good, there are two that are merely okay. And in every ten good ones, there might be just one that’s getting close to superb. That’s the snag. It’s impossible to tell by the look of the place. You need to know where to go – treasure is rare on the street. And so here, now, right away, let’s rescue your holiday! Don’t just dig hoping for gold. Go directly to Shasa Resort & Residences. Their menu is simply to die for.

It’s actually not so easy to find. That’s the downside of being 5-star, exclusive and elegantly appointed. Peace, calm, seclusion and a picture postcard sea view draw people to stay there, right down in the deep south of the island. And you could sit with a map, or navigate your way with Google Maps on your phone. But don’t bother! Because they’ll come out and get you.

Pick you up and take you there at no cost. And why not! It’s just another facet of the super service that’s the norm at Shasa.

Shasa has been around for some time now; in fact, it was probably the first to set the trend.

This, the very lower southeast coast of the island, is now the location of more than a few 5-star resorts that, over the last several years, have availed themselves of the unspoiled and secluded natural beauty of this area. There are no main roads, no traffic noise, rarely even the cruising putter of a fishing boat. The streets all around and leading to the resort are more like narrow, leafy country lanes, and the same sense of lush tropical countryside permeates through and into the resort. The rooms and suites are subtly terraced into the gently-sloping downwards run to the beach, with the wonderfully embryonic pools sculpted into the scheme, along with the naturally-occurring granite bedrock which peeps coyly through to the surface here and there, and around which the resort has been designed. It’s gently stylish, it’s modern and it’s all quite idyllic.

Every restaurant has a different character at night, and ‘Beyond the Sea Siamese Brassiere’ (to give the restaurant here its full title) is no exception. In fact, this place is pretty special in the daytime, too. After the sun has passed its highest point, in the early afternoon, the outer balcony is a shady haven, cool and peaceful, with a dreamy sea view between the leafy edges of the resort. The decor out here is earthy and

simple, the smooth wooden planks of the decking contrasting pleasingly with the vertical slabs of rough-hewn timber on the outer wall, and the floor-to-ceiling windows above that offset this, clad tastefully with Mediterranean-style wooden shutters. It’s quite a lot lower out here, too, adding to the feeling of cosy seclusion.

The menu is Thai and International, but with a unique emphasis on the Thai side of things. And if I tell you that a significant number of the guests who frequent Beyond the Sea are Thai, and have come here from Bangkok (and even further afield) to stay, then you’ll start to understand. The Executive Chef, Khun Raden, has been running the kitchen here for over five years, after previously working for such exalted names as The Library, Tongsai Bay and The Boathouse – all of them 5-star resorts elsewhere on the island. But he’s a master of culinary intrigue when it comes to the International dishes, too. Take a nibble at his Spicy Crab Carbonara and see what I mean! And his Thai-style pizzas (Massaman, Tom Yum; there are six in all) are wondrous to behold.

And why is the Thai cuisine here different? Well, there are several reasons. Firstly, all the items on

the menu have been given a subtle twist by Chef Raden, who has endowed them with his own special-recipe sauces and curry pastes. Secondly, every item is created with prime ingredients, many of them imported, especially the meats.

This alone makes a world of difference. If you compare a Thai dish made with corn-fed breast of chicken or imported Wagyu beef with the dishes the small local eateries are serving up, well, there just isn’t any comparison at all! The flavour and texture is completely different. And the final thing that makes this all seriously individual is the presentation. The place settings, the table décor, the cutlery and flatware, are all elegantly modern, and with some of the nicest ceramic sets you’ll see anywhere. This is fine dining – Thai style.

The resident Manager is Khun Samlee Samchuencham – Khun Sam for short – and she’s ready to unveil more enticements. “We frequently offer promotions featuring highlighted dishes,” she told me, “usually to match the seasonal ebb and flow of our guests. Look out for the Penang Beef Curry or the wonderful Gang Som Pla. You’ll find these inserted as the first page of the menu. And we’ve also got a superb wine list, with hand-picked labels, both New World and classic, plus a good range of

sparkling wines, and champagne by Krug, Dom Pérignon and Veuve Clicquot. And, of course, a full vegetarian menu that runs to several pages.

One other thing is that if you have young children you’ll be happy, as there’s a separate menu just for kiddies.”

Probably the best way to experience this place is to arrive here around the sunset hour. Not only do you get that wonderful skywards lightshow, but you’ll also catch the happy hour that runs from 4:00 pm to 6:00 pm! And all tipples (except for spirits) are running at two-for-one in this period. And, on top of that, you’ll be able to experience the subtle metamorphosis as the restaurant glows into its night time incarnation, with low discreet lighting, the black glass walls and ceiling, and marble surfaces. Here at Shasa Resort & Residences and their delightful Beyond the Sea Siamese Brassiere, the menu is not the only thing that’s ‘seriously original’!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 3888. www.shasahotels.com

www.siamwininganddining.com 11

Signature Dish Sampling something special, as we sail out of Chaweng, up to the landmark of The Barge restaurant.

If you stay on Samui for a while, you’ll get to know them. There really aren’t that many around. They’re dotted about, here and there, and mostly spaced well apart. They’re the things that everyone knows – like Central Festival Mall.

Sometimes they’re big and bold, other times a feature, or just a name. But they all have one thing in common; they’re notable. They stand out. And one of the most outstanding of these is the very well-known, and dramatically styled, restaurant known as ‘The Barge’.

I have a feeling that a great many visitors who stay for just a short time never get to see this; if you drove past it, you’d certainly stop to look.

But it seems that folks stick mainly to the ring-road. This will take them effortlessly down through Lamai, or to Fisherman’s Village in the other direction. But both The Barge, and its host resort, the sumptuous 5-star Nora Buri Resort & Spa, are actually a great deal closer than any of these – just up the hill going northwards out of Chaweng, probably only four or five minutes in a car, in the direction of the neighbouring bay of Choeng Mon. The Nora Group isn’t exactly a household name, but on Samui, it’s established itself as a force to be reckoned with. The original Nora was the Nora Beach Resort & Spa, an opulent and expansive,

nture, perched on a very laid-back 4-star-plus venture, prime chunk of rocky hillsidee at the northern limit of Chaweng Beach Road. Then, very cleverly, over the years, the group proceeded to add a budget hotel and a town hotel, before surprising everyone, in 2009, with the 5-star luxury of Nora Buri that now cascades right down the hillside, over the road, and down to the beach, with the stunning edifice of The Barge monumentally perched above the lower section.

This award-winning building really is something to marvel. You can’t appreciate this from the road, but the building spans the downward slope to the beach in three levels; meaning that you come in off the street at the top one and then make your way downwards to the ground floor by means of the stairs. The top floor, as you enter, is actually where you’re best able to appreciate the complexity of the sculpted wooden design, as the whole of the spiralling roof-space is all hand-fitted in rich, dark woods.

The top floor is taken up by the gentile and glass-walled Thai fine-dining restaurant, ‘The Rice Barge’. Coming down to the middle floor there’s a super dining area that’s usually reserved for functions; cool and shady, jutting out towards the bay and open on three sides. And the ground floor is another surprise, seeming to be an open-sided area, but actually cleverly

extending outwards in scoops and terraces onto lawned areas that are interspersed with patches of sand, as if the beach has extended its way into the resort. This is where the all-day snacking happens. And it’s also the focal point of the evening’s dining, including the excellent buffets that are held twice a week.

In charge of Western cuisine is Chef Brendan Semmens, a creative cook who slants his offerings towards home-style thinking, but with a French/Italian bias (“. . . I don’t care for trendy foams or powders!”). He’s totally revitalised the menu here, with some superlative taste and texture combinations based on prime imported beef and fresh seafood. Try his Duck Breast and see what I mean – “with Braised Cabbage and Almond Flakes, Glazed Carrots, Cauliflower Puree and Thyme Jus”. Or the Peppered Steak (sirloin or tenderloin), “with Potato Fondants.

Fennel Puree, Green Beans and Red Wine Shallots, dressed with a choice between two sauces or parsley-garlic butter”.

But this month, specially selected for you, is his signature presentation – “New Zealand Cutlets, medium-cooked, Marinated in (red-wine) Rosemary, with Home-Made Gnocchi with a Red-wine Reduction and garnished with Asparagus and Young Carrots”. This is a

mouth-watering tango of tastes and textures, with the sauce bringing it all together and playing against the meaty flavour of the lamb.

The gnocchi is tossed through the thyme reduction before being placed as a soft bed for the other ingredients And the crispy vegetables form a counterpoint with the contrasting softness of the meat and the little dumplings. It’s simply superb!

And on Wednesdays it’s ‘Hawaiian Night’. This is the one to go for if you’re a lover of Thai and Asian food, with a range of Japanese items and everything hot in clay pots over charcoal. Plus there’s a selection of Western dishes for those who prefer them. This all comes complete with a Hawaiian Dance group, together with the ever-popular fire jugglers and dancers. And Brendan’s desserts.

But then, Brendan is something of an artist as his seductive desserts bear witness. Just a sniff will send you reeling – as with the ‘Meringue with Lemon Curd, Berry Coulis, Nut Praline and Fresh Melon with mint.’ And a whole selection of these taste-bud squeezing creations is to be found sitting quietly to one side (but not for long!) on buffet evenings.

But, just a thought if you want to be nifty about things. The Barge runs a happy hour from 6:00 pm until 7:00 pm, with all drinks at 50% except wines. So the idea is that you get all spruced up and come out early to catch one of the super sunsets here and then go onto dine à la carte or via one of the buffets – or a bit of both, as the à la carte menu is available on buffet evenings, too. Either way, just about everything you’re going to sample, here at Nora Buri and The Barge, is something special, whichever night you decide to go!

These all-you-can-eat Nora buffets have been the talk of the island for a very long time, and are renowned for their extensive spreads and lavishly varied selection of dishes. Each Monday everyone gets in the mood of the ‘Cowboy Buffet’, complete with fancy dress and six-shooters and country-style bales of hay. The culinary direction is towards international offerings, with a live BBQ station, a wide selection of seafood, plus a plentiful salad bar.

And Brendan’s desserts.

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 3555. www.noraburiresort.com

Sabeinglae Restaurant

Sabienglae restaurants offer traditional al fresh seafood and cuisine cuisin in an authentic southern Thai style.

Come and enjoy our unique dishes, many of which you won’t find elsewhere on the island, in a relaxing atmosphere. An experience to truly complete your holiday.

The Wharf Samui, Fishermans’s Village For reservation please call 077 430 094-5

12 www.siamwininganddining.com

Hin Ta Hin Yai, Samui Ring Road For reservation please call 077 233 082-3

Wimaan Buri Resort, Chaweng Ring Road For reservation please call 077 962 333

SIP, SAVOUR, LOUNGE, AND LINGER Stay all day and move with your mood, exploring our range of indoor and outdoor settings, right on Samui’s beach with panoramic view of the coastline. Enjoy a casual lunch in the shade, experiencing our eclectic menu of international cuisine or lounge away the aſternoon on a sunken daybed in the sand, steps away from the beach.

For evenings, COAST transforms into one of Samui’s most sophisticated dining experiences, showcasing grills and seafood. Aſter dark, the beachside ambience becomes candlelit and alluring with a sizzling collection of cocktails.

The focus at COAST is always on views of the beach and your effortless glide through the day.

Open Hours: 12:00 – 23:00 hrs.

www.centarahotelsresorts.com/csbr E: coast@chr.co.th T: +66 (0) 77 230500

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Coffee Culture Black Canyon operates three cool coffee shops on Samui, and each is immensely popular.

What do you associate with coffee shops? A sense of relaxation, soft music being played while you talk with friends or connect to the internet? A place to unwind when you feel stressed? But it wasn’t always like this. It was the opposite. Very, very unrelaxing. Go back in time a few hundred years and you’d need to have guts to even walk into a coffee house.

Sweat, smoke, shouting, noise and all manner of foulness would greet you once you opened the door to a typical coffee house in the London of the mid-1600s. People would perhaps yell at you for news, demand your opinions on the latest novel, or want to talk to you and drain you of information. And depending on which of the coffee houses you were in, you might variously get your hair cut, watch doctors examining the mentally sick, read the newspapers of the day and recover from your hangover of the night before. You’d also find yourself in the company of some of the most learned people of the day and perhaps you’d even be so engrossed by what was going on around you that you’d be able to forget the taste of the coffee itself, which back then was described as tasting of ‘soot and essence of old shoes’. Disgusting as it was, people kept coming back for more, and coffee shops quickly became popular businesses to run, particularly if you were in a big European city like London. Back then nobody would have suspected that cafes would ever become sophisticated, or turn up on far-flung tropical islands, such as Samui.

But times have changed. Coffee these days tastes great, and the cafes where you can drink it aren’t going to cause your hearing to deteriorate, nor will you feel terrified of walking into a room full of giddy and opinionated madmen. Coffee is highly popular in South-East Asia, and in Thailand, a country famed for its embracing of different cultures and tastes, coffee culture is alive and well and kicking. It’s heavily

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influenced by the West, with cafes to match those you’d find in Europe and America.

On Samui, there are now hundreds of places to drink quality coffee, though just a decade ago, this certainly wasn’t the case. There are stand-alone coffee shops as well as international chains that have set up here. Black Canyon is decidedly international, and has branches in Malaysia, Indonesia and The Philippines. On Samui it has three different outlets, and each is very popular. You'll find all sorts of people dropping in, some for a drink, some for food – and of course many come for both. There’s free internet and the entire place is geared towards customer convenience and satisfaction. You’ll find a Black Canyon at Central Festival (on the second floor, close to the banks), and one right in the heart of each of the Tesco-Lotus malls in Chaweng and Lamai.

Types of coffee you can have vary considerably, from a Gelato Espresso, if you like a scoop of vanilla ice-cream in black coffee, to Cafe Latte, Cappuccino, Mocha and Caramel Macchiato (to name just a few). There are also iced varieties, such as the Black Hazelnut Frappe, the Caramel Blackpuccino Frappe or a tall glass of Iced White Chocolate Mocha. In addition to coffee, you can also drink hot or cold chocolate, various teas, as well as the ever-popular Thai tea, which is made from strong black tea combined with sweet condensed milk. You may also want a milk shake or soft drink, and last but not least, you can also have a beer. That’s quite a list and more than you’d find in many a cafe. In fact, it might take you quite a bit of time to make up your mind as there are so many possibilities.

Black Canyon also offers delicious food. You'll find a range of extremely tasty appetizers including Northern-Style Cocktail Sausages, Fried Spring Rolls and if you’d simply like

something Western then there are chicken wings, sandwiches, or that trusted stand-by, French fries. If you like fusion food, then you’ll certainly enjoy their pasta which is combined with Thai touches. For example, you can have Fusilli in Chicken Green Curry or Fried Spaghetti with Seafood and Hot Basil. Mains consist of Thai favourites such as Chicken Green Curry and Stir-Fried Curried Prawn, or a classic Pad Thai with Prawns. If you're a little hungrier, you may be tempted by one of the set menus which come with soup. Vegetarians also have options too, such as Shiitake Fried Rice or Spaghetti Carbonara with Mushrooms. For dessert you'll also find plenty on the menu. You can either have a Thai dish such as Taro Ball in Hot Coconut Cream or Water Chestnut in Coconut Cream, or something completely Western such as a Fruit Salad Sundae or Cookie Mocha Chips, which is an ice-cream, with, yes, cookies.

Dr Philip Kotler, the well-known marketing expert, said of Black Canyon, “Their excellent reputation is earned by serving coffee of the highest quality, with the best aroma and taste, made form 100% fresh coffee beans from the best plantations in the world, including the highest grade of pure Arabica coffee beans grown by hill tries in Northern Thailand.”

But you don’t need to be a marketing guru to appreciate what Black Canyon is doing. Just drop into any of the three branches on Samui and you can treat yourself to a fine cup of coffee, a snack or a meal. Once you get a taste of life at Black Canyon, you'll probably start hanging out there quite regularly – it’s a catchy place.

Dimitri Waring For further information visit www.blackcanyoncoffee.com

Experience the very best in authentic Thai cuisine at Chef Chom’s Thai Restaurant at The Tongsai Bay Chef Chom's serves truly authentic Thai cuisine with an emphasis on local southern Thai cuisine. Wherever possible, ingredients are sourced locally and dishes are prepared from scratch.

This real Thai taste is the pride of the kitchen, and dishes are not 'watered down', the taste of Chef Chom's food is just the way Thais would have it.

Chef Chom’s is open daily for dinner from 7pm to 10pm. Tel: +66 (0) 77 245-480 www.tongsaibay.co.th

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Sabienglae

Krua Bophut

Shore to Please In Fisherman’s Village there’s plenty of choice when it comes to dining.

H Bistro Set on the north coast, just a 15 minute drive away from Chaweng, Fisherman’s Village is an international beachside community that packs a punch when it comes to dining out. It’s basically a single street of shops, bars and restaurants with the occasional hotel. Fairly quiet in the morning, Fisherman’s Village wakes up late in the afternoon and gets going once evening starts, when its many neon signs begin to glow.

It’s easy to find Fisherman’s Village. Just turn towards the sea at the Bophut traffic lights and you'll see the entrance to the village some 200 metres ahead. If you coming by car though, it’s best to park at The Wharf, which is entirely free.

The Wharf is about a half kilometre from the Bophut traffic lights as you head towards Maenam.

Chez François

The eastern end of the village is the quieter end, with fewer restaurants and bars. But the entire village is ideal for anyone who doesn’t want to drive a car or rent a motorbike – the beachfront is just over a kilometre long and is very walkable. The beach road, though technically not a pedestrianized zone sees relatively little traffic; it’s too narrow for cars to drive down with any comfort, and most people you'll see here are on foot.

The one-time fishing village still has its wooden Chinese-style houses, and as you walk down the street you'll see many preserved second floors.

The ground floors, having mostly become shops, have been completely revamped. Any olde-worlde feel has long gone, and fishing no longer figures very high on the agenda – most fishing families sold their beachfront properties, and the village has transformed itself over the years into a very eclectic dining destination.

The restaurants mostly serve international food, from Italian to Mexican to Indian. It’s almost impossible not to find something that you’d like to eat in Fisherman’s Village. It goes without saying that there’s plenty of Thai food too.

When evening comes, everybody walks along the street in search of a good meal. And there’s plenty on offer. Many of the restaurants look out over the water and have steps down to the beach. Often you can get a table overlooking

the sea and enjoy the view – you'll see the island of Koh Pha-Ngan in the middle distance.

The area is extremely popular with families and couples, as it’s all so relaxed here.

If you’ve come to dine then probably the best thing to do is to stroll along the street and see what takes your fancy. If it’s your first time here, you may find the wide selection of cuisines makes it hard to decide – there really is a huge variety on offer. So it’s best to come early, leave yourself plenty of time to decide, and just amble along, checking out menus and restaurants.

Many stand out in various ways and in an article such as this we can only mention a scant few.

We’ll start with two that concentrate on Thai food, both of which have excellent reputations.

Sabienglae is a highly popular Thai restaurant open for lunch and dinner. It remains faithful to its Thai roots, but also serves up Western food, too. It’s a great place to come and linger and has a relaxed, very casual feel to it. The menu has dozens of dishes, and everything’s great value for money, no matter what you decide to eat. Sabienglae is located in the newly-built Wharf shopping centre, and looks out over the sea.

If you're hankering after Thai food in a traditional, old-style atmosphere, then don’t miss out on Krua Bophut, which serves up amazingly tasty dishes in a teak house, and is also right on the beach, towards the western end of the village. The cuisine’s inspired mainly by the south of Thailand with the menu featuring many fresh seafood specialties. There are two special set menus with a medley of favourite Thai dishes for you to enjoy, such as papaya salad, tom yum, white snapper and duck curry. Very child-friendly, Krua Bophut is also open for lunch and is very popular, with many repeat customers.

For Western food, you'll find everything from casual eateries to intimate restaurants. For the latter try Barracuda Restaurant, which is run by Swiss-German chef, Ferdinand Dienst. He’s created one of Koh Samui’s favourite dining detinations; it was doing so well that he relocated the entire restaurant from Maenam to

Barracuda

Magic Alambic Rum Distillery on Samui

Pure alcohol made from a selection of fine fruits and sugarcane. Taste before you buy at the Garden Bar.

Choeng Mon

Nathon

Koh Samui

Visit our restaurant La Route du Rum for delicious French-style cuisine in a relaxing setting.

Tel: 0 91 816 7416, 0 7741 9023 E-mail: ludovic.trantoul@gmail.com www.rhumdistillerie.com 16 www.siamwininganddining.com

Taling Ngam

Magic Alambic

Baan Thale Baan Bang Kao

The Wharf at Fisherman’s Village. The food’s superbly Mediterranean and is accompanied with some Thai touches. The menu has been put together with imagination and flair, allowing Barracuda to beat many of the longer-established restaurants on the island.

Right at the very western end of Fisherman’s Village you'll find Hansar Samui, with a restaurant that’s very contemporary in looks, H Bistro. It’s probably not often that you'll dine on food that’s prepared by a chef who used to cook for political dignitaries and royalty, but chef Stephen Jean Dion has worked for the King and Queen of Jordan, who loved his French-Mediterranean style. H Bistro is open all day, but when evening comes, it offers sublime fine dining, with perhaps its best option being the highly romantic ‘Dining under the Stars’, where a gazebo is placed on the sand just for you and your beloved.

For something very different, you can go and dine Chez François, located where the road from the Bophut traffic lights to Bangrak curves round just by the entrance to Fisherman’s Village. No two evenings are ever the same, as Chef François Porté-Garcia invites you into his home-cum-restaurant and cooks in a very impromptu style, which also takes into account your own tastes, likes and dislikes. The only common denominators for each evening are that he offers a four-course dinner along the lines of a starter, a second course of seafood or fish, then a main course of meat, finishing with a special dessert. If you’re around on a Sunday morning, François also offers a highly tasty Sunday lunch.

Fisherman’s Village may be basically just a road that fronts the shoreline, but the restaurants that have made it their home face stiff competition, so they have to be good. If the choice seems bewildering, then just do what everyone does before they choose where to dine: have a walk along the shore road and see just what takes your fancy.

Dimitri Waring

Tranquillity on Tap

Nora Beach Resort & Spa is one of Samui’s most relaxed places – and the food’s great too too. o.

“You know what I like most about this place?” says Khun Jaran Sonsem, the F&B Manager at Nora Beach Resort & Spa. “It’s the sheer relaxed feel of the resort. We’re lucky being here.

There’s a lot of privacy, I mean a lot. It’s a great location – we’re in Chaweng but right at the north end of it, so it’s a very peaceful place to be, even if you're just eating here.”

who’ve made their way here from outside. They come perhaps from one or other of Chaweng’s hotels, but frequently further afield than that.

Incidentally, Nora Beach couldn’t be easier to find: simply head north out of Chaweng along the beach road, go past Samui International Hospital, and you'll see it just over a kilometre later, on your right.

And as F&B manager, eating at the resort is something that Khun Jaran knows a lot about. If you're at Nora Beach you'll probably see him as he makes his rounds, checking on guests and seeing how they feel about the hotel and, of course, the food they’ve been eating here. The island’s full of good food and is extremely competitive; so feedback is just one of the ways in which hoteliers can know how well they're doing. And since they want to offer the very best, they want to know how satisfied their guests are. Khun Jaran clocks up quite a few miles just walking around the resort – it’s set in a massive garden on a beautiful hill slope that leads down to the sea.

Khun Jaran appears at the restaurant every day at breakfast to see first-hand how his guests are.

“You'll usually find F&B managers like me at breakfast chatting to people,” he says. “It’s not because we’re after a quick cup of coffee; it’s literally the only time of the day when we can safely say that we'll see all the guests in the resort in the same place and at roughly the same time. I know that I can always get good feedback here.” Indeed, everyone likes breakfast and unless they're off to catch a plane, then they’ll be here. And Nora Beach doesn’t serve just any old breakfast, by the way. It’s an extensive buffet that caters for just about all tastes, whether you're Asian or European or from, well, just about anywhere in the world.

Right by the beach you'll find Prasuthon, Nora Beach’s all-day dining restaurant, which welcomes not just in-house guests, but diners

Most outside guests come to Prasuthon for dinner, as it has an excellent à la carte menu

and focuses on delicious Thai and Western food.

There’s nothing better than eating a few yards away from the sea in a spacious sala, open to all the views and breezes. Khun Jaran’s also around during Prasuthon’s theme nights. Every Tuesday you can enjoy a Thai Dinner Buffet, while on Thursdays you'll find an East Meets West Buffet.

Khun Jaran recommends you book for these evenings to avoid disappointment; both are extremely popular. When you book you can find out exactly what kind of entertainment there’ll be, as this can vary from week to week.

You may find anything from traditional Thai dancing with old-style instruments to fire dancing shows.

Khun Jaran also helps organize the resort’s events, especially weddings and receptions, ensuring that everything’s done to please the guests and fulfil their expectations. He also organizes romantic dinners on the sand, and private dinners in the nine beachfront villas.

Then there are the cooking classes, which include making cocktails – very popular with guests. As you can imagine Khun Jaran has plenty to do. And then there’s one more location he has to supervise, one that you might not expect to be on his agenda - the swimming pool.

Close to Prasuthon Restaurant, you'll find the pool, which was refurbished at the end of last year, along with much of the rest of the hotel. It of turns out that Khun Jaran spends quite a bit o hone time at the pool, and no, he’s not here to hon his breaststroke. The pool, very popular throughout the day, has a swim-up bar and make offers food and drink, too. It’s his task to mak sure that everything’s functioning as it should be and the guests are happy.

“Part of my job,” says Khun Jaran “is to organize the staff. Hotels everywhere follow pretty much the same procedures when it comes to daily operations, but what really distinguishes a hotel is their service mind, as we call it. This is the way we inter-react with the guests. And it makes all the difference.” He’s of course completely correct; you could be staying in a hotel with the greatest amenities in the world, but if the staff aren’t up to scratch, your experience is going to be mediocre at best. Nora Beach is quite the opposite; the staff are all extremely helpful and nothing seems to be too much trouble. “We work in teams,” says Khun Jaran. “And part of my own job is to know what the teams are doing; every day I meet up with the various heads of departments so we can get to grips

very quickly with any challenges.” A hotel is pretty much a living entity, and while there are rules and procedures, what’s also important is the way that it deals with issues on a human level.

Nora Beach has a great reputation for pleasing its guests, whether they’re staying as holidaymakers or have come to eat at the restaurant. Have a meal here and you'll see just how relaxing this resort is, making your visit here, however long or short, an amazingly good one.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 9400. www.norabeachresort.com

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The Wine Page A rough guide to buying wine.

If you are still unsure about, or intimidated by wine, don’t be. Simply learn what you like and don’t be persuaded otherwise. Look at it the same way you would music, nobody can tell you what you like or don’t like. And when buying a bottle of wine, know what you’re looking for, and put it into words. It’s easier to find a non-oaked crisp white wine with restrained flavours of green apple than a “fabulous” dry white wine. The latter means different things to different people, so the odds of getting what you want are slim.

The biggest clue to determine how a wine will taste is the grape variety from which it’s made.

This is where the main flavours come from. For example, wine made from, say, Cabernet Sauvignon tastes like blackcurrant, Chardonnay like citrus, Merlot like cherry, and so on. Of course, wines take on additional nuances depending on where the grapes were grown, and the winemaking techniques used, but the fundamental flavour of the grape remains the same. Thankfully, these days, most wines name their grape varieties on the labels. Those that don’t are usually more traditional wines from Europe, which are known by the place they are made, such as Barolo, Chianti, or Bordeaux. (In

Manathai Koh Samui 18 www.siamwininganddining.com

this case you will have to do some research, to find out the grapes used.)

As well as flavour characteristics, each grape variety show distinguishing levels of tannin and sourness, known as acidity. These elements can greatly influence whether a wine is to your liking. Nebbiolo, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon make notably tannic wines, for instance, and Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay make wines that are lemon-lime sour. So it’s useful to learn your preferred level of tannin and acidity. This is why I recommend keeping notes on your grape and wine style preferences (I know this is a little geeky). And if you are anything like me, your wine choices vary with the weather, the occasion, and most importantly, what you’re eating. An acidic white wine is a great refresher in the summer, or perfect with a spicy dish, while a robust red on a chilly day, perhaps with roasted red meat, is gastric heaven. As is a fruity red wine, like Pinot Noir, when accompanying mature soft cheeses like Gorgonzola.

Crisp and acidic wines tend to come from cooler climates, countries further from the equator, such as Austria, Germany, Canada, and yes,

Samui Ring Road

Lamai

England. Cool regions in hot countries, such as the mountains of Chile, produce wines with more natural acidity or freshness. If you like vanilla tones, search out wine aged in American oak. For aromas and flavours such as black pepper, cinnamon and coffee, look for wines aged in French oak. (Information on the type of oak used is often noted on the bottle’s back label.) And clearly, better wines are fermented or matured in oak barrels, rather than less costly oak chips, or even worst, essence. If a wine’s label uses sneakily elusive phrases, such as “oak maturation” or “oak influence” rather than the word “barrel,” the producer has probably chosen one of the less expensive methods, and the price should reflect that.

Generally speaking, traditional old world wines tend to be more restrained and less fruit-forward than new world wines. But, in the complicated world of wine, exceptions that prove the rule, of course exist. Many new world producers now make very old world style wine blends, especially at the higher end of the price spectrum. And the old world is starting to make inexpensive and fruity, friendly labelled new world look-alikes, Tortoise Creek from France is a good example of this curious trend.

Telephone 0 7745 8560-4

One of the best ways to buy wine is through a knowledgeable wine merchant. For reputable wine sellers, especially those that are small and independent, there’s no commercial place for mediocrity. They will be tasting wines all the time, and should be a source of valuable information. In my experience, this is far more reliable than medals and awards. Critics tend to taste for typicality as well as quality. A reviewer might not like Beaujolais for instance, but will have tasted enough of them to know if it’s a good quality version. High scores, though, will mean nothing if you don’t like the style of wine in the first place. Above all, trust your own palate. And rely on your taste buds to decide if a wine is for you. In some ways, the power of the internet has dethroned wine critics anyway.

Many passionate enthusiasts now post their unbiased tasting notes online. And wine apps like Wine-Searcher, Hello Vino and Plonk have caught on fast - it’s always worth doing a quick search. And a valuable tip I have learnt is, when you find a wine you love, buy a few bottles, and store them in a cool dark place. You’ll be glad you did, especially if you live here in Thailand, because stock changes so quickly. (I do a similar thing with underwear, but that’s another

www.manathai.com

story!) Another, slightly odd, tip I have is that better wines are usually found in heavier bottles.

I realize this is unscientific, and a feature that’s wide open to deceitfulness. But in my experience, it’s almost always been the case that the red wines inside chunky bottles are of good quality.

All the guidance above is true for me, but none of it is the gospel truth. Wine appreciation is a highly subjective thing - it starts and ends with your personal connection to the wine. It’s best not to listen to the so-called experts too much.

(And no, the irony of saying that in a wine column isn’t lost on me.) When it comes to your tastes in music, you make up your own mind, right? Other people’s opinions matter very little.

So follow your instincts, likewise, when tasting a wine. And remember, as with evocative romantic music, the best way to enjoy a great wine, is to savour it, at a leisurely pace, together with someone you love.

Peter James

Opening Times 10am – 1am

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort presents a wide range of restaurants and bars featuring a variety of cuisines to suit all tastes.

Premium cocktails and selected wines are also available in each outlet.

STAR A stunning rooftop bar where you can sip our signature cocktails and enjoy some snacks while watching the sunset or gazing at the stars above.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs.

The Height

Sun Deck

Wine and Cigar Lounge

Oering an extensive menu of delightful Thai cuisine, the restaurant has both air-conditioned and open air seating options, all with stunning views of the surrounding sea.

Open: 17.00-22.30hrs.

Exclusive dining on the deck with breathtaking views.Enjoy International delights in a romantic se ing with your loved one. Please reserve in advance.

Refreshments, cocktails and snacks with a selection of premium wines and cigars to enjoy the breathtaking view.

Open:18.00-22.30hrs.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort 208/66 Moo4, Koh Samui, Sura hani 84310 Thailand Tel: (+66) 077 960 555 Fax: (+66) 077 960 055 www. Silavadeeresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com

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Monday - Cowboy Steak Night Assorted BBQ Meat Buffet Entertainment: The Barge Band Tuesday, Friday and Saturday Lobster Basket Set: 3,300 for 2 persons Seafood Basket Set: 2,300 for 2 persons Inclusive of Salad, Soup and Side dishes Entertainment: Duo Band Wednesday - Hawaiian Seafood Night Variety of Fresh Seafood & BBQ Meat Buffet Entertainment: Polynesian Dance and The Barge Band Sunday Chef Creation Set Dinner and A La Carte Menu

No visit to Samui is complete until you have dined at The Barge

Rice Barge Authentic Thai Cuisine

Fine Beach & Hillside Dining at Samui's Newest Venue Quality Thai, Seafood & International Dishes The Ultimate Samui Dining Experience!

The Barge Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: thebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North

It’s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & Spa Tuesday Night- Siam Kingdom Thai Night. We invite you to experience a variety of traditional Thai dishes.

T Price THB 850 per person.

Thurs ren Thursday Night - East Meets West. Enjoy our chef’s special buffet creations. Price THB 950 net per person. Children 6-12 years old half price. Entertainment: Polynesian Show & Mariposa Duo. Thai Cooking Class Learn how to cook 3 authentic Thai dishes with our Thai Chef. Price THB 1,500 per person Inclusive of chef hat, apron, certificate and recipe.

Fruit Carving Class Price THB 1,500 per person. Inclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate.

Daily Happy Hour Beverages Special offer 50% off (Except wine, Corona beer, all spirits by the bottle) Pool Bar 1.00 pm - 2.00 pm & 4.00 pm - 5.00 pm. Prasuthon Restaurant 6.00 pm - 7.00 pm.

Lobby Bar 7.00 pm - 8.00 pm & 10.00 pm - 11.00 pm.

Romantic Private Dining Dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress.

Thai menu THB 5,000 per couple.

International menu THB 6,000 per couple.

Advance reservation required

For further information please telephone 0 7742 9400 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com

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