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Michigan voted to legalise marijuana

10 US STATES HAVE NOW LEGALISED THE WEED

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On Tuesday, November 6th, voters in Michigan overwhelmingly approved Proposition 18-1, a ballot initiative that legalizes marijuana for adults who are age 21 or older, and allows for the sale of flower, concentrates or cannabis-infused edibles. The measure, which passed with 56 percent of votes, makes Michigan the tenth state, plus Washington, D.C., to permit recreational weed, and the second largest behind California in terms of population.

would be allowed cultivate up to 12 plants for personal use, but limit possession to 10 ounces of marijuana products stored in their home and to 2.5 ounces in public, provided no more than 15 grams are in concentrate form. Using cannabis in public, though, is prohibited under the measure.

“Adults will no longer be punished for consuming a substance less harmful than alcohol,” Marijuana Policy Project’s Deputy Director Matthew Schweich said in a statement, “and rather than having to resort to the illegal market, they will be able to access it safely and legally from licensed businesses.”

Still, even with those caveats, the passage of Prop 18-1 will have huge implications for criminal justice reform in the state. From

There’s also a massive economic benefit: Prop 18-1 will impose a 10 percent cannabis sales tax, which will help support Michigan’s infrastructure, clinical research, education and regulatory costs, as well as localities where marijuana businesses operate. Prop 18-1 does, however, give local municipalities the option to opt out of the program, letting them prohibit or limit the recreational marijuana businesses in their area. The opt-out scheme, though, would only apply to the commercial cannabis industry and would not affect personal cultivation or possession.

“This is yet another historic election for the movement to end marijuana prohibition,” Steve Hawkins, executive director of the Marijuana Policy Project, which had organized behind the Michigan initiative effort, said in a statement. “Voters have once again sent a message loud and clear that it is time to legalize and regulate marijuana.” Two out of three people in the United States support legalizing cannabis for recreational use, according to the results of Gallup poll released last month. “The victory in Michigan highlights just how widespread support is for marijuana policy reform,” Hawkins added. Under Michigan’s Prop 18-1, consumers

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Michigan wasn’t the only state to have cannabis legalization is on the table. Voters in North Dakota also took to the polls to decide the fate of legal weed in the state. North Dakota’s ballot initiative Measure 3 would have removed “hashish, marijuana, and tetrahydrocannabinols” (THC) from its list of Schedule I substances, ultimately making recreational cannabis use legal for all adults. It would also have created a pro cess that automatically expunged previous marijuana convictions. But Measure 3 failed to pass, with less than 40 percent of voters in favor of the initiative.

2007 through 2016, there were more than 200,000 cannabis-related arrests in Michigan, of which 84 percent were for personal possession, according to the Drug Policy Alliance. But with the legalization of recreational weed, those statistics should take a nosedive.

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On the medicinal side, Missouri legalized medical marijuana after more than 64 percent of people voted to approve Amendment 2, one of three competing legalization initiatives on the state’s ballot, all of which relate to medical marijuana only. Amendment 2 was considered the most substantive measure and aligned most closely with other state medical marijuana programs. The initiative will legalize medical cannabis in Missouri and impose a four-percent sales tax, the revenue of which would fund veteran health care services in the state. Source: rollingstone.com

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EDITORIAL

THE TIMES WE LIVE IN... Dr Dee

Recently, the UK parliament held yet another debate on changing the laws around cannabis. There was a quite extraordinary moment in the proceedings when Victoria Atkins - the Under Secretary of State for drugs at The Home Office - "recused" herself from the debate, citing a potential conflict of interest arising from her husband's job as the reason for this. Yes, the UK's drugs minister can't talk about cannabis because her husband grows it. Regular readers will be aware that Victoria Atkins' husband, one Paul Kenward, is licensed by The Home Office to grow cannabis to supply GW Pharmaceuticals, the company set to benefit massively from the soon to happen flood of medical cannabis preparations requests made to GP's (at a severe cost to the NHS). Regular readers will also be aware that Philip May - the husband of the Prime Minister - is a Senior Executive with an outfit called Capital Group, who are significant shareholders in GW Pharmaceuticals. It should be noted that all of this is going on at the same time as the government resolutely refuses to reschedule cannabis - it currently sits in Schedule 1, meaning it has no medical or therapeutic use - while using some smoke and mirrors to allow a chosen few to simultaneously profit from producing it for, er, medical use. Essentially, there seem to be moves afoot to keep legal cannabis production out of the hands of the "hoi polloi" and in the hands of those caring and compassionate money men of big business. This is a likely future of legal cannabis if the big money capitalist boys are permitted free rein and allowed - apparently with the full blessing, approval and protection of the government and the law - to squeeze everyone else (community enterprise, micro business, small scale entrepreneurship etc) out of the burgeoning cannabis industry before it has even properly begun. There is a real danger that we are heading towards a two tier system of legalisation, whereby the capitalist classes will simply commodify cannabis and be the only people to legally able to produce the weed and profit from the potentially massive amounts of profit generated, while everyone else will be legally able to purchase and consume said corporate weed and... well, and that will be it: you will be able to have your weed, but only on terms dictated by the corporate business models: no legal home growing set ups or anything else like that will be permitted. Once again, the crumbs will fall from the top table and the rest of us will be expected to say "thank you". And in case anyone thinks that this is a grim and bleak picture, it gets so much worse, as the same people who appear to be setting things up so that they profit the most from legalisation are the same sorts who profit from death, destruction and human misery. A little bit of digging online will reveal to anyone interested, that Philip May's employers, Capital Group, are (very) big shareholders in Lockheed Martin and BAE Systems, both of whom are weapons manufacturers. The House of Saud is one of BAE's biggest customers: British made weapons are being used in the prolonged, brutal and horrendous war in Yemen. Lest you think “well, maybe corporate weed isn’t such a bad thing”, consider the fact that every time the Saudis drop a bomb on a school or a hospital in Yemen, people connected to the top tiers of our government are profiting – actually making money - from it. It’s utterly and completely soulless and shameless. Selling cannabis or selling cluster bombs; it's all one to these people. They're both just commodities, after all, to be bought and sold for the best price. These are the times we live in, but it doesn't have to be that way. Another future has to be possible.

READERS@SOFTSECRETS.NL

SHOPREVIEW

A REALLY HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY NEW YEAR You’ve got a happy New Year and you’ve got a happy, happy, happy New Year. For the latter, you have to be in Amsterdam, Haarlem and Zandvoort to see in the New Year. And more specifically, in one of the establishments of Hunter’s, as this is where it’s happening. With Hunter’s you begin the New Year in a great way. Here you can find everything to make your visit during Christmas and New Year unforgettable, or even forgettable. Prepare yourself for a happy, happy, happy New Year in Amsterdam, Haarlem and Zandvoort...

GO OUT WITH A BLOW

You’re in Amsterdam, Haarlem or Zandvoort, so all the more reason to end the old year with a huge bang. Or as they put it here: go out with a blow. After a visit to Hunter’s Coffeeshop you no longer dream of a white Christmas but a green one and you will see the New Year from its most sunny side. It’s a great way to start the party and already inhale the atmosphere.

THE YEAR GOES UP IN SMOKE

In and around Amsterdam you can find so many coffeeshops that you can even choose to let the whole year’s end go up in smoke. Looking forward to the moment the clock strikes twelve in the

most relaxed way and enjoying the best, most colourful tremendous fireworks you’ve ever seen. And when the smoke screen has lifted after all the fireworks, you know that you’ve experienced one of the most forgettable moments in Amsterdam, Haarlem or Zandvoort.

HAPPIER NEW YEAR PARTY

If you want to party and want to start the New Year in an unforgettable way, then don’t miss Hunter’s The Bar. You can find one in the Warmoestraat, the Reguliersdwarsstraat and at the Oudezijds Voorburgwal. This is where you can party like there’s no tomorrow to see in the New Year. Dancing, drinking and counting down to midnight. And because it’s Hunter’s, you can expect a

Happier New Year’s party. Especially if you’ve inhaled the atmosphere at one of Hunter’s coffeeshops before your visit that, believe it or not, are next to The Bar. This completes your party: a coffeeshop and a smoker friendly bar. All ingredients are therefore present to make your Happy New Year a Happier New Year’s party.

RELAXED START OF 2019

For those who don’t find Amsterdam enough, you can also move on to Haarlem. In this city too, just a fifteenminute drive from Amsterdam, you can find a Hunter’s Coffeeshop. It’s strategically located between Amsterdam and Amsterdam Beach and is a nice stop if you’re on your way to the sea. As at Amsterdam Beach, in Zandvoort there’s

another Hunter’s. Ideal to regain your breath after Hunter’s Happier New Year party and to inhale the refreshing sea air. There is no better way to start 2019.

HUNTER’S IS NOT FOR PUSSIES

The Hunter’s story began in 1985 in the well-known Warmoestraat. Not with roses, but with a dog. Here, on this famous spot near the Amsterdam Wallen, in the midst of all pussycats, a dog named Hunter’s marked his territory with a well-aimed pee against the façade. The dog’s owner decided that this was a good place and the first Hunter’s Coffeeshop was born. In the meantime, Hunter’s territory has expanded and you can find the famous logo with the dog all over Amsterdam, Haarlem and Zandvoort.

HUNT THEM ALL You can find a whopping nine branches in and around Amsterdam. Each Hunter’s has its own atmosphere and speciality. From the famous Warmoestraat, the Reguliersdwarsstraat and the Oudezijds Voorburgwal in the centre to an easily accessible one on the motorway of Amsterdam Noord and West. Apart from Coffeeshops, Hunter’s also offers smoker friendly bars. There’s even a Hunter’s Grand Café with 275m² of beer drinking, sports watching, pool playing and smoker friendly fun. There’s also a Hunter’s Coffeeshop in Haarlem, so you can visit Hunter’s on the way to the beach, where you can find a Hunter’s Coffeeshop in Zandvoort. So make your visit to Amsterdam complete and visit all Hunter’s, or as they put it: Hunt them all. Would you like more information about Hunter’s? Visit www.hunters-coffeeshop.com or follow Hunter’s on Facebook.

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CANNABIS CONTAMINANTS It's not just a home growers problem however. Even cannabis sold in dispensaries where it is legal in the US and Canada can be at risk unless it is subject too very strict lab testing regulations. This is because it is common practice that cannabis will be subject to lab tests for cannabinoid and terpene content and not contaminants. So with this in mind ask yourself, do you know what's in your weed? Or how it got there? I suspect that the answer from the majority of people would be a resounding "no" which is exactly why I thought it would be interesting to look closer at the heavy metal contaminants that can be present in cannabis and how if possible to avoid contamination as far as you can in your own grows.

Did you know that cannabis is part of a category of plants labelled “accumulator plants”? This means that they are super efficient at sucking in and storing materials. This might sound kind of cool on the surface and useful

if you are a grower however it can be just as much of a hindrance as it is a help because it just exacerbates the problem of potential contamination. Pretty much everything that comes into contact with your plants and assists in

their development such as fertilisers, water, soil, air, and root zone media more often than not, contains varying levels of toxic heavy metals and other pollutants that your cannabis plants as “accumulators” will take in to their vascular system and store. Heavy metals are metallic chemical elements with high densities that can be toxic even at low levels, naturally found in the earths crust it is inevitable that we will be exposed to them naturally at a low level through the food we eat, air we breathe and the water we drink. Cannabis in its natural environment like all plants will contain a quantity of heavy metals that corresponds to the quantity that is present in the soil in which they are growing. The list of heavy metals” includes arsenic a known carcinogen that in toxic doses can kill and is linked to many different cancers. Cadmium which is a zinc byproduct that is extremely toxic and carcinogenic and can cause respiratory illnesses and kidney disease. Lead which over exposure to can result in poisoning leading to headaches, intestinal stress, pain and reproductive problems. Mercury which can cause serious neurological damage, pain, numbness, tremors, difficulty walking, seizures and memory problems and Nickel, large doses of which can cause stomach problems, heart failure, kidney and lung damage, neurological problems, dermatitis and cancer. Other contaminants on the list include iron and copper.

You may think, well so what? I’ve been smoking for years and I’m fine, but are you really? Are you willing to ignore the multitude of possible health risks that could affect you in future years? Effects from heavy metals are not felt overnight, the toxins slowly accumulate in our bodies over time. In scientific tests it was found that anywhere between 6%-23% of heavy metals are transferred from plant matter to smoke when they are burned. So thinking of that every time you light up a joint may change your mind on the conscious thought that you put into your growing methods! The majority of heavy metals enter cannabis primarily via hydroponics nutrients, fertilisers, and soils. There

will be extremely low levels of some contaminants that are present in your water supply but on their own they are usually low enough that they are insignificant by themselves, this is in big part due to the treatment of our domestic water supply before it reaches our homes. If you were using a fresh or untreated water source you may find higher levels present. Growing in soil is also a contributing factor as soil will already naturally contain a whole heap of chemical elements dependent on where it has originated from and what it has

example of the phrase "you get what you pay for" it is this instance. One of the main routes from that brings contamination into the plant through feeds and fertilisers is phosphorous, the P in your NPK, an essential macronutrient that is required in large amounts by your plants. Phosphorous is often a carrier material that contains radiation and heavy metals. In fact in raw form such as rock phosphate for example it can contain substantial amounts of toxic contamination. Not only this but

CANNABIS IN ITS NATURAL ENVIRONMENT WILL CONTAIN A QUANTITY OF HEAVY METALS THAT CORRESPONDS TO THE QUANTITY THAT IS PRESENT IN THE SOIL IN WHICH IT IS GROWING been exposed to both organically and environmentally such as animal waste or industrial byproducts and fumes. The biggest culprit however is thought to be poor quality nutrients and fertilisers that are not made to the correct specifications and/or do not include the correct ingredients at safe levels levels. These feeds and fertilisers tend to contain cheap, low grade elements in order to keep costs down and should be avoided at all costs. If ever there was a perfect

phosphorous is also a natural chelator meaning that it binds with heavy metals and other toxic substances. Phosphorous plays an important and varied role in plant health, aiding in photosynthesis, respiration, energy storage and transfer, cell division, cell enlargement and several other minor processes. It is no surprise then that a feeding regime heavy in phosphorous is very common in hydroponics and indoor growing. You will find that almost all nutrients, medium and

10 fertilisers available on the market today contain far more phosphorous than your plants really need, especially for the first few weeks of Flower. Too much phosphorous can have the opposite effect than you would want/expect it to have on your plants, causing imbalance from the root up and disrupting growth, health, and yield

may not be telling you the full truth as to what is in there! So what is the best way to avoid using products that may contain unsafe levels of heavy metals and other chemical contaminants? Well it would be to do your research on what you are using and to choose reputable brands who back up their claims, wherever

IN TERMS OF ORGANIC NUTRIENTS, DO NOT BE FOOLED THAT THE WORD "ORGANIC" MEANS CLEAN OF HEAVY METALS whilst also storing toxic heavy metals and radiation in your crops which then enters your body when you ingest the cannabis. Zinc can also cause issues, an essential micronutrient contained in your plant feed, it is required in much smaller amounts and is an important part of many enzymes and proteins as well as being essential to processes such as growth hormone production. Although only a small amount is needed by your plant zinc can still be a risk to health as it may contain lead, cadmium, and Mercury all of which can be a danger if repeatedly ingested over time. There are often “heavy metals analysis” statements on fertiliser labels showing you that levels are safe, this is due to organisations that have introduced and are reinforcing standards of acceptable levels of heavy metals in fertilisers that are safe for human consumption. This is a great start and whilst tests do show that the threat of toxic heavy metal ingestion from the use of chemical fertiliser is low, lets not forget that the hydroponics industry and the specific fertilisers used within it are largely still unregulated and not standardised and so any fertiliser regulatory standards that do exist don’t protect us, and neither do most fertiliser manufacturers. With this in mind you must take it seriously that the analysis on your nutrient bottle

possible. This might mean spending a bit more money but as I always say, you get what you pay for. Look out for products that use pharmaceuticalgrade metal salts called proteinates, and alaninates, which are cleaner, high

quality and more thoroughly tested and so therefore far more likely to eliminate contamination issues. Let's face it the clue here is in the name "pharmaceutical" which shows that they are clean enough to pass strict regulations for use in medical products,

which also makes perfect sense if you are in fact growing your own cannabis for medicinal because after all you essentially want to use it to make your health better not worse. Using the right amounts and types of these chemical elements has a twofold effect in that it not only protects your health but it also makes for stronger, larger, cleaner plants with higher levels of THC and other cannabinoids. Most nutrients that use pharmaceutical grade elements also tend to be more specific with the measurements that their products include such as using the correct ratio of phosphorous rather than the overdoses that you see in less meticulous brands. In terms of organic nutrients, do not be fooled that the word "organic" means clean of heavy metals. Remember that heavy metals are present naturally in the environment and so will be present in any animal matter that is used in your organic

fertiliser. Examples include fish which depending on its origin can be high in mercury and bat guano which contains higher levels of arsenic and several other metals. If you are insistent on wanting to use organic nutrients for other reasons such as

reducing use of synthetic fertilisers then I would advise you again to do your research and buy the best quality organic products that you can afford as similarly to pharmaceutical grade nutrients the ingredients will be much more thoroughly screened and safer. Alternatively you could try using Vegan nutrients which are making a real impact at the moment and are very low in heavy metal content as the formulas are made up entirely of plant matter, with no synthetic chemicals or animal based derivatives. Tests have shown that weed grown using organic methods and techniques can still contain contaminants (heavy metals) at levels of around 2-5 parts per million, whereas weed grown on a vegan feeding schedule comes in at more like 200-600 parts per billion, which is over 100 times less! Using a medium such as coco coir will help keep levels to a minimum due to the fact that it is inert, rather than soil which already comes pre-loaded with an unknown amount of elements that are hard to control. If you are growing in a hydro system (DWC,NFT, aeroponics) where your plants are much more exposed to any heavy metal traces present in your water supply, then I would recommend the use of RO (reverse osmosis) or demineralised water which has a much, much lower level of heavy metals present. Flushing your plants at the end of Flower and before Harvest is an essential practice that everyone should follow, however I now realise that it is not enough by itself to protect myself or anyone else who would be smoking my end product. There will still be traces of questionable chemicals in your plants no matter how or what you use to flush them and so my advice would be to look a little deeper and try to eliminate the problem much earlier on and give yourself the peace of mind that you are doing all you can to look after your health!

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GROW WITH MR. JOSÉ

By Mr. José - info@mrjose.eu

How to calculate your yield

Do you know what fishermen and growers have in common? They both have a strong tendency to exaggerate when it comes to describing their achievements. Every grower surely knows what I mean. Some of us just keep boasting how many kilos we have managed to produce under a single lamp and then share these invaluable experiences with our friends. However, the reality tends to be much soberer – not every harvest equals good yield. Let’s find out how to count your yield properly.

One plant’s yield is not a very important piece of information.

HOW MUCH CAN ONE PLANT PRODUCE? One of the most often discussed parameters of harvest is the amount of dried female buds obtained from a single plant. However, this number does not tell you much about the real yield of your grow room. The information concerning the amount of harvested buds from a single plant, in fact, tells you more about the size of the plant than the actual yield. Logically, a plant that gives you 15 grams must be significantly smaller than the one that gives you 50 grams. These numbers, however, do not tell you much about the time you need to grow the plants to achieve the final harvest. Instead, the weight of the total harvest from one plant can help you estimate how many flowers the grower has in the area of 1 m2. The bigger the yield from one plant, the smaller the number of plants in the growing space. It is important to note that we are now talking about indoor growing. Once you move outdoors, the yields of individual plants differ to a greater degree because of many varying factors. A single regular plant (not autoflowering) grown outdoors can yield anything from few tens to several hundred and thousands of grams. However, we will now focus on the indoor growing. Calculating the real yield from one plant is further complicated when you attempt to compare more grow rooms with different parameters. When

The more advanced growers measure their growing efficiency by comparing the strength of the lighting source and the amount of the final harvest in grams. You can quantify this factor by dividing the total weight of dried buds by power of the light source measured in watts. For example, if you harvest 450 grams of dried buds under 600W sodium lamp, you divide number 450 by 600. In this case, you would get to 0.75. That means that the efficiency of the growing is 0.75 gram per watt. A generally accepted number for a good yield is one gram per one watt. This way, you get even closer to the numbers that somehow reflect the reality of your growing efficiency. You can clearly see that it does not matter how big your grow room

TIME TO DISCUSS KILOWATT HOURS The most precise criterion for the specification of your growing efficiency would have to include all expenses spent on one harvest and then dividing the result by the total amount of harvested grams of dried buds. Into the expenses you have to add costs of all the electricity used, costs of fertilizers, growing medium, water and wear and tear of all growing equipment used. Furthermore, you would have to add the costs of time that you spent working in the room. Still, most growers do not count all their expenses spent on growing and almost nobody counts in the time they spend in the process. Friends who are growers usually just keep discussing the yield per meter, per plant and only occasionally think about the power of their lighting system. Despite the common belief, you can estimate most of the regular costs of your growing quite quickly – you only need to count in the costs of electricity used for lights, respectively, the time and power that you needed to grow until harvest. Let’s try an example: a grower got 400 grams of dried buds using 400W lamps. Let’s presume that he or she kept the flowers for 10 days in the growth phase and for 60 days in the flowering phase. Our goal is now to get to the number of kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity he or she used. For 10 days, the grower was using the 400W lamp for 18 hours a day. 400 W equals to 0.4 kW. When you multiply this number by the number of hours during which the lamp is on in one day, you get the kWh usage. In numbers: 0.4 kW x 18 hours =

one grower puts four plants under one light whereas another one puts twelve plants into the same space, you can hardly evaluate their performance through yields from individual plants.

HOW MUCH CAN YOU HARVEST IN ONE SQUARE METER? Another number which is often taken as an indicator of the grower’s success is one square meter. This information is way more useful. In this way, you can estimate how many grams the grower got from a specific area and easily compare the yields of several grow rooms with different parameters. It does not longer matter how many plants you are growing. Comparison that involves the size of the growroom is much easier and more accurate. However, even with this method, you still cannot count in the time and money invested before achieving such harvest. It is important to know how long the growth phase lasted because, in this period, the lightning regime consumes more electricity than later in the flowering phase. Therefore, you need to incorporate other parameters as well.

HOW MANY GRAMS PER WATT CAN YOU PRODUCE?

Good harvest is the ultimate goal of every grower.

is, how many plants you have in it and how much of the material you grow per square meter. Imagine a grower who can manage to grow 400 grams under the 400W lamp on one square meter whereas another one has the same harvest under the 600W lamp. If these two guys meet and discuss their yields, it may seem that they are both similarly successful. Of course, in such case, the one who grows under the 400W lamp is the more successful one because his yield is one gram per one watt whereas the second manages to get only 0.67 of a gram per watt.

7.2 kWh. This is your electricity usage during one day of the growth phase. Ten days make it 72 kWh. For the flowering phase, you use a similar equation: 0.4 W x 12 hours = 4.8 kWh. 4.8 kWh x 60 days = 288 kWh. 72 kWh + 288 kWh = 360 kWh. When you use this number to divide the yield of 400 grams, you get 1,1 grams per 1 kWh of the electricity consumed. With the growth phase 20 days long, the efficiency would be 0,93 grams per kWh. Now you know how to count the yield, and next time, you can dazzle your friends with your math skills and almost scientific knowledge concerning your growing efficiency.

COLUMN / PRODUCTS

IS ALL CANNABIS USE REALLY MEDICAL USE? Recently, there have been some quite heated debates in the cannabis world around what the term "recreational" use actually means. Somewhat contentiously, it has been proposed that all cannabis use is basically medical use, except most cannabis users haven't actually realDr Dee ised that this is the case.

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This is being driven principally by America, where the key reason for all of the semantic nit picking boils down to money, and stems from the fact that while more than 80% (and increasing) of Americans support medical cannabis, only something like 50% (and wavering) support recreational use. The very idea of recreational use is proving to be something of a sticking point for the legalisers, particularly in the conservative Southern states and the Bible Belt, where people generally are absolutely fine with medical use, but any debate around the right to

recreational use is effectively dead in the water. An obvious knock on effect here is drastically less money flowing into the coffers of the producers. The way around this interesting conundrum would appear to be to redefine the parameters as to what constitutes medical use, so push this “all use is medical use” agenda: all very clever. I have an issue with the term "recreational drug use" for a whole lot of different reasons, but none of them really come down to making money, which is basically what we’re seeing here.

Personally, I think I would 90% agree with this viewpoint: cannabis is a great way to relax and kick back. For people who are emotionally “together”, it can be a most pleasant way to pass an evening in a mildly altered state of consciousness… …however, there’s something about the proposed blanket approval of all use as medical that troubles me. The proposition that “recreational” users simply don’t realise that they’re actually self-medicating, is fine up to a point, but what really causes me concern are those people who use cannabis to try to self-medicate for some pretty severe mental health issues, consequently making those issues worse. There are a significantly sized group of people out there who just shouldn’t use cannabis at all, and putting out the message that “it’s okay, all use is medical use” is doing these people a big disservice, and could potentially cause a lot of harm. Here’s the thing; it’s now pretty much accepted that cannabis per se doesn’t really cause mental health problems so much as worsen and intensify existing or underlying ones. Many (or perhaps even all) of these problems are heritable or genetic. Therefore, prospective or novice cannabis users need to look at their immediate family - parents

B'CUZZ SILIC BOOST Atami knows exactly what your plant needs, therefore we provide every grower the natural elements in its best form. This resulted in our new Booster, Silic boost, a perfect balanced silicon product giving your plants another Boost. Silic Boost is the latest addition to the B’cuzz family, which is especially created for the more experienced grower. Why use B’cuzz Silic Boost? Silicon is one of the most common elements in soil, however the vast majority of this isn’t available to the plant. Applying our B’cuzz Silic Boost is essential to improve the availability of Silicon to your plants. Peat or coco based substrates are generally low in Silicon, making B’cuzz Silic Boost an excellent addition to your regular nutrition regime. THE BENEFITS OF B’CUZZ SILIC BOOST: ȏ 5 HJXODWLQJ XSWDNH RI QXWULHQWV 1XWULHQWV DUH DEVRUEHG LQ WKH ULJKW ratios and elements and used more efficiently by the plant. ȏ 5 HLQIRUFHPHQW RI WKH VWHP 6LOLFRQ LV GHSRVLWHG LQ WKH VWHP making it stronger and thicker. ȏ 5 HVLVWDQFH WR ELRWLF VWUHVV 6LOLFRQ LV DOVR GHSRVLWHG LQ WKH top of the leaves. This makes the plant more resilient to harsh weather conditions. ȏ + LJKO\ FRQFHQWUDWHG $GG MXVW PO SHU OLWUH WR \RXU daily nutrient regime. ȏ 6XLWDEOH IRU HYHU\ W\SH RI FXOWLYDWLRQ Try out B’cuzz Silic Boost and Join the Atami Universe!

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and siblings – and if there’s even the smallest indication of schizophrenia or whatever, then they should avoid cannabis like the plague: for people in this group, cannabis isn’t benign and there’s really no safe way of using it whether it’s dressed up as medical or recreational use. To play Devil’s Advocate, if we’re seriously talking about the outcomes of relaxation, destressing and unwinding as a basic or fundamental tenet of the “medical use” of a substance, then, to be honest, the same case could be made for more or less all psychoactive substances, and with exactly the same caveats. We could apply this to anything that aids with whatever form of R&R a person might want, so booze or E. For some people out there, this might even involve a little hit of heroin. It’s a logical but probably very unpopular conclusion to this line of thought. Before I finish this column, if books full of drug-related humour are your thing, then I’d draw your attention to a novel by Joe Kane called 1991: A Chemical Odyssey. It was actually written a while ago, but until recently was only available as one of those e-book things, but is now available as a real book. Trust me: it’s very funny.

GROW QUIZ

7. When germinating seeds in tissue, which is correct? A. B. C. D.

Moist paper tissue and kept in darkness Moist paper tissue and exposed to light Dry paper towels and kept in darkness None of these are correct

8. Pruning plants before flower will do what? 1. Which of these is most representative of indica cannabis? A. B. C. D.

Flowering time of 84 days Flowering time of 70 days Flowering time of 56 days Flowering time of 96 days

A. B. C. D.

Focus all the energy on the top canopy Top the plants causing two crown shoots Super crop the plant Pruning plants is a waste of time

14. Which of these is more representative of sativa Cannabis? A. B. C. D.

A flowering time of 70 days plus A flowering time of 45 days A flowering time of 56 days Sativa is autoflowering cannabis

15. What should your humidity be in the flowering stage? A. B. C. D.

70% 50% 30% 10%

16. How did the strain Skunk get its name? 2. What is the job of a carbon filter? A. B. C. D.

They scrub smells with carbon They are just a fancy fan The carbon makes plants smell more A carbon filter does nothing

3. What is LST? A. B. C. D.

It is a famous Dutch strain It means Low Stress Training It means Light Sensitivity Tech Never heard of it!

9. Which of these is a sign of bad bacteria forming in the root zone? A. B. C. D.

A bad egg smell and brown roots The leaves will become purple White fury roots emerging from the base There is no such thing as bad bacteria

A. B. C. D.

You can tell by the color of the nutes You need to use a calibrated pH pen Add water and see if it discolorises You do not need to check pH

5. Which of these is the most nutrient rich? A. B. C. D.

Coco Vermiculite Worm castings Rockwool

The landrace was found close to Skunks That was the nickname of the breeder That was the Dutch coffeeshop where it was discovered The aroma was extremely pungent and animal like

10. Which of these is not a real strain?

17. Powdery Mildew looks like which of these?

A. B. C. D.

AK47 NL#5 x Haze Cinderella 99 Red Rose Kush

A. B.

11. What does an EC pen do? 4. How should nutrients be checked for pH?

A. B. C.

A. B. C. D.

Checks the Chlorine of water Checks the electric conductivity of water Checks the cannabinoid profile of a flower Checks the European Commission stamp

12. Which of these has a cannabinoid ratio of 1:2? A. B. C. D.

6% THC / 3% CBD 6% THC / 6% CBD 3% THC / 6% CBD 3% THC / 3% CBD

Rusty brown spots forming on the leaves A white powdery substance forming on the leaves When the bud becomes covered in a grey web When the tips of the leaves are orange

18. Super cropping means to do which of these? A. B. C. D.

To use a screen when flowering Snapping a wooden stem and breaking To pinch out the plants early in veg Never heard of super cropping

19. What is the importance of flushing plants? A. B. C. D.

Flushing plants will increase CBD levels Flushing will make the plants purple Flushing will improve the flavour and colour of ash Flushing makes no difference at all

20. What does Sea Of Green mean? 6. Why do growers feed plants molasses? A. B. C. D.

Molasses kill insects in the soil Molasses will kill the plants Molasses are rich in Nitrogen Molasses are rich in Carbon

13. How does adding perlite benefit a growing medium? A. B. C. D.

It is packed full of trace elements It will improve drainage and add air pockets It will makes plants bloom heavily in flowering It is naturally high in sugar

A. A way of growing many small plants together (SOG) B. It is a famous strain known for big yields C. It is a nutrient used for flushing D. Greenish slimy water forms in your pot bottom.

For answers see page 46!

THE CANNABIS EXPERIENCE

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THE ONLY ORIGINAL AND GUARANTEED SEEDS FROM SWEET SEEDS® ARE THOSE SOLD IN THEIR ORIGINAL PACKAGING. Sale forbidden to people under 18 years old. Seeds for collection purposes exclusively. It is illegal to make them germinate. They are not for agriculture purposes. Consult laws about cannabis applied in your place of residence. Sweet Seeds® will not be accountable for illegal use of these seeds done by third parties.

C/ Dr. Nicasio Benlloch nº36-38 · 46015 · Valencia · Spain · +34 963 890 403 / +34 628 593 887 WHOLESALERS: +34 963 473 730 / +34 963 404 289 · info@sweetseeds.es

3+1s 22,50 € 5+2s 36,90 €

SWS71

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GROW REPORT

pH & PPM Tailor To Your Crop

survival response of generating more natural oils within the plant that will combat dehydration. This controlled drought has been shown to increase the levels of oil in the plant, and thus the THC (the good stuff). This general description of the growing process gives you the knowledge for more advanced decisions about the pH and concentration (PPM) of your nutrient solution. A word however, has to be given in regards to temperature and light.

What’s pH? This is a question that usually makes new growers scratch their TEMPERATURE & LIGHT heads and reach for the pipe. pH applies to the level of alkalinity or acidity of a The optimum temperature for given “thing”, in this case a liquid. The liquid is the nutrient solution you’re using hydroponic solutions in general is said to be 24 degrees Celsius. It is at this to grow your joy. The pH scale starts at 0 and rises to 14. A value of 7.0 is contemperature that most elements are sidered neutral, with values over 7.0 being alkaline and values below 7.0 being assimilated easily and atmospHeric acidic. Now, you might be asking yourself why this is important. If you were a oxygen is most readily accepted into chemist, you’d know already. Since you’re not, here’s why. By Thomas Valentine your nutrient solution. Some might make The nutrient solution you’re using is basically a cocktail of various chemicals. These chemicals can react to each other in a process called covalent bonding and form new chemicals that you don’t want. You don’t want them because your plant can’t use them. This process

is, the growing medium won’t react with the nutrients in the solution. For those methods that use inert media, a pH of 5.2 is recommended for optimal elemental uptake. It is at this pH level that the roots will assimilate the nutrients in your solution most

During the flowering period, the PPM is raised even higher to 1000 PPM. That’s a lot of nutrient, and it’s needed, every drop. It is at the flowering time that your plant will need the most resources. After the flowers have grown to buds, you’ll have to think about flushing the chemicals from your new creation. At this time, the plant still needs

the point that increases in temperature increase the rate of photosynthesis, and this is true. You must, however, cater to the nutritional needs of your plant and avoid exceeding the maximum listed temperature of 25 degrees Celsius for your solution. Some of the fancier hydroponic setups have the root / solution area separated from the growing / foliage area. The growing / foliage area

THE pH SCALE STARTS AT 0 AND RISES TO 14. A VALUE OF 7.0 IS CONSIDERED NEUTRAL. of covalent bonding is largely dependent on the pH of the solution the chemicals are suspended in, in this case water. With the chemicals being used in your average hydroponic solution, a chemist would say that the optimum pH would be 7.0, which is neutral. The reasoning behind this is that in keeping the solution neutral, covalent bonding of the constituent parts of your solution will be kept to a minimum. But since your plants like a different pH level for optimum growth, you have to cater to your joy, lower the pH, and take the slight loss of nutrient value. Fast growing leafy plants generally like a lower pH in the range of 5.2 to 5.9. Fortunately, a lower pH will bond fewer nutrients of the type in your solution than will a higher pH. If you let the pH value go beyond the optimum range of 5.2 to 5.9, you’re opening yourself up to undesirable levels of nutritional deficiency and toxicity, both of which can seriously impede your growth. Be vigilant. In your research of the various hydroponic methods in use, you might have realized that most of the growing media in use is relatively inert (rockwool, pea gravel, sand, etc.). That

efficiently. If the root has to work less to assimilate the required nutrients, the rest of the plant will benefit. At this point, those old-hand stoners that have been growing since the 60’s will shake their heads and tsk-tsk you. They will swear by a neutral pH of 7.0 for the nutrient solution (if they check the pH at all). New research has shown that this lower pH value is the optimum for green leafy plants that grow this quickly. My own experiments with this lower pH have convinced me – the buds were plentiful and fat, and the shake made couch-glue hash oil that was to die for.

PARTS PER MILLION (PPM)

The tweaking of the concentration of the nutrient solution at various growth periods further enhances the nutrient assimilation rate. The concentration of a solution is measured in Parts Per Million (PPM). You wouldn’t normally have any nutrient solution feeding a newly cut clone, so the PPM of your solution at this stage isn’t an issue. Young, established seedlings or rooted clones however, are generally started at 500 to 600 PPM. This value is increased to 800 to 900 PPM during the peak foliage growth period.

nutrients, but at a lower concentration. It is recommended then to reduce the concentration to 400 to 500 PPM for a couple of days to leach out the nutrients that have built up – you don’t want to end up smoking them. It is at this point that some people like to starve their plant to stimulate the

is kept warmer than the root / solution area, thus getting the best of both worlds. Stay tuned for a future article on that one; it’s a great read. As I mentioned earlier, covalent bonding is the bane of the hydroponic gardener. Avoid it at every corner. This is easier

17 said than done is some situations, but you have to know what you’re up against. In every covalent bond that occurs, some energy is used. This energy is taken from the surroundings in the form of heat, chemical energy, or light. If you have to mix up large batches of nutrient solution at once or if you buy it premixed, keep your solution in the dark and above all, keep your solution cool. Keeping the solution cool and dark won’t

The method I use is a dead on balls accurate method, and involves buying a relatively inexpensive pH meter. The meter tests the pH down to a tenth of a point, and has proven itself indispensable – a good buy. Another meter tests the PPM of the solution as a whole. There’s no way around this one, people. If you want to control the PPM of your nutrient solution, you have to buy the meter.

FORTUNATELY, A LOWER pH WILL BOND FEWER NUTRIENTS OF THE TYPE IN YOUR SOLUTION THAN WILL A HIGHER pH. give the chemicals the energy required to do what unstable chemicals want to do – form stable covalent bonds. The first chemical to pursue a covalent bond is usually iron. Iron is notoriously free to form bonds with just about anything that passes by. If you must add it to your nutrient solution with other trace chemicals, do it just before you deliver the solution to the plant. This is to give the roots a fighting chance with the other chemicals in the solution, including the iron itself.

MEASURING pH & PPM

Measuring pH is relatively easy, and you have quite a few choices in terms of methods. The most inexpensive and low-tech method entails taking a sample from your solution. It is put into a clean vial you get with the pH kit. You test for the pH by putting a drop of the something-or-other liquid that came in the kit into the vial (NOT the solution). The something-or-other makes the nutrient solution turn color, usually shades of green or blue-green. This color is then compared to a color chart that comes with the kit. The closest color is the pH of the solution.

If you’re only growing a one-shot crop or just a few at a time, get the cheaper meter or mix the nutrients per gram according to the labeled instructions. If you’re going full throttle and growing for all of your friends, spend a bit more and get the reliability that comes with a quality product.

high (alkaline), it can be lowered with saltpeter, sulfuric acid or phosphorous. When the pH value is too low, it can be raised with calcium carbonate, lime or, potash. Most fertilizers cause a pH change in the nutrient solution. Adding fertilizer to the nutrient solution almost always results in a more acidic pH. Adjust accordingly. The proper way to handle all of these chemicals is important. The first general rule is that you don’t do it when you’re stoned. Just don’t do it – the plants can miss a feeding if necessary. Another general rule is to use glass or plastic, never metal. The nutrients will react with the very free elements in the metal and mess up your nutrient ratios. Glass or plastic doesn’t have that problem, so get your butt to the kitchen section of the nearest department store first. Never add the acid to the vat of nutrient. Fill a small glass container with the nutrient to be balanced and add a few drops of the necessary chemical. Stir it in well and add small amounts at a time to the large vat of nutrient until the proper pH balance is achieved. That’s all there is to it. Now you’re in business.

NEW RESEARCH HAS SHOWN THAT THIS LOWER PH VALUE IS THE OPTIMUM FOR GREEN LEAFY PLANTS THAT GROW THIS QUICKLY. ADJUSTING pH & PPM

So now you know what pH and PPM are and how covalent bonds are dependant upon them. Great. And what do you do with this newfound knowledge, you ask? Simple. You add acid to it. Knowing what to add and when is paramount to your success as a joyjoy grower. When the pH level is too

As time goes on, the amount of salts produced by the breakdown of fertilizers in the medium causes it to become increasingly acidic. Eventually, the concentration of these salts in the medium will stunt the plant and cause browning out of the foliage. Also, as the plant gets older its roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To avoid the accumulation of these salts

in your medium and to ensure that your plant is getting all of the food it needs, be sure to flush your system with clean, pH balanced water every couple of weeks. Do this in lieu of that cycle’s feeding. There’s always been a big debate over when to adjust your pH – before and after you add nutrients to the water, or just after. We talked to an expert, and she said to do both. The reasoning for doing both is that water is rarely dead on neutral. It’s either acidic or alkaline, depending on your region. Our chemist said that the way the professionals do it is to render the water neutral first (pH of 7.0). You would then add your nutrients to that chemically neutral solution and adjust to the desired range within 5.2 to 5.9 pH. Makes sense. So that’s a few words on pH, PPM and covalent bonds.

SEED BANKS

MEDIKIT

A CBD-RICH, SUPERBLY TASTING AND HIGHLY POTENT STRAIN You may have heard about Buddha Seeds for sure, a world-famous seed bank for the quality of its seeds. But probably you are not aware of its research efforts for the innovation and ongoing development of cannabis stains that do not stop surprising us. with high vegetative vigour and a high level of cannabinoids. The Buddha Seeds team have a clear objective, i.e. to continue working to improve their market position among the leading seed banks. Their success formula is, quite simply, to place quality before quantity. Otherwise said, you will find fewer strains in their seed catalogue but all of them are highly reliable.

MEDIKIT CONQUERED THE CBD MARKET Unsurprisingly, 2018 was equally outstanding for the Buddha Seeds team. After years of research, they have devoted themselves headlong to the CBD market with the launch of Medikit and Medikit Auto, CBD-rich strains with a cannabidiol content of 20% or so and only 1% of THC. This plant has therefore valuable therapeutic and medical properties and is perfect for relaxing without psychoactive effect. Best of all, these

Buddha Seeds, a Spanish company with more than 15 years of experience in the cannabis sector, focuses its efforts on genetic improvement to place and maintain their strains in the top market segments. Behind each strain is a hard work of selecting and stabilising desirable genetic traits, and exhaustive quality checks to ensure its final success, from germination to harvest. This work has gained the respect and loyalty of thousands of growers worldwide. Indeed, many varieties available on the market today originate from the early seeds of this bank. That is why, Buddha Seeds is now recognised at global level as a leading-edge seed bank. Its multidisciplinary team includes engineers specialised in agronomy and biotechnology, who apply the most sophisticated technologies, such as a gas chromatography or genetic sequencing, to analyse plant genotypes and phenotypes. A specific methodology is used to characterise genes codifying

enzymes responsible for the synthesis of cannabinoids. This methodology identifies the genomes of recently germinated seedlings to forecast their future cannabinoid profile in their adult state. This analysis is extremely advantageous for the genetic improvement programme that the bank breeders are carrying out, as it allows them to select the chemotype of parents and siblings without waiting until their flowering phase.

INNOVATION AT THE SERVICE OF QUALITY

Buddha Seeds pride themselves with having probably the best research department in Europe. Cutting-edge techniques - such as selection assisted by molecular genetic markers; analysis of cannabinoids and terpenes by gas chromatography with a flame ionisation detector; in-vitro development, propagation and maintenance of genotypes, and identification and characterisation of polyploid individuals – are used to offer growers specimens

qualities were obtained without affecting its aroma! Medikit stands out for its high CBD concentration and a high level of aromatic terpenes, which is quite unusual in these CBD varieties, whose taste is generally less pleasant. And now with Medikit, available on the market in both auto and non-auto versions, you will notice an improved taste, which is predominantly citric (orange, lemon or mango) with wooden and leather notes. Despite their recent launch, Medikit and Medikit Auto have already met with great success among growers of CBD-rich varieties. The social network profiles of this Spanish brand are even showing images of crops grown in Switzerland, the cradle of the European CBD market, where the consumption and cultivation of CBD-rich strains are protected by national laws. But Switzerland is not the only place where Medikit has grown in importance. In Latin American countries, such as Uruguay, this CBD plant will soon be available in cannabis clubs and associations. What is more, Buddha Seeds is continuing its expansion with this new CBD line and gaining new market shares in, e.g., the USA. Medikit is a superior plant for its explosive growth, reaching more than four metres in height, if grown on a soil substrate outdoors, and produces abundant harvests. During flowering, Medikit is sublime, with bulky and compact flower bunches covered with an attractive crystalline resin coating. Now that Medikit has made its flamboyant entry into the CBD market, what are you waiting for to taste it?

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SEED BANKS

Words and pics by Tommy L. Gomez

CRYSTAL CANDY F1 FAST VERSION® Grow-report of a fast visit to a candy shop

When Sweet Seeds® released the first F1 Fast Version® strains in 2013, just like all the growers I was extremely curious about these varieties and as most growers I had reasonable doubts about the quality and production of these ultra fastflowering strains. By then, it seemed hard to believe that yield and all the organoleptic qualities of the final product could remain intact while the plants may be harvested 1 to 2 weeks earlier when compared to their original versions. Once again I was very positively surprised by another amazing new concept in which the Spanish seed bank Sweet Seeds® was pioneer. After growing the first strains released in the market from this family, Cream Caramel F1 Fast Version® (SWS40), Green Poison F1 Fast Version® (SWS41) and Sweet Cheese F1 Fast Version® (SWS42), I was absolutely

Version® strains from then on as it was very clear that the quality of these strains is equally good or even better while they finish the flowering stage much faster than any other strain they grew before.

on the contrary, it just makes us proud as it proves the quality of our product and the high professional standards of our R&D Department. So we kept releasing other F1 Fast Version® strains, turning

convinced about the quality of these strains. If that was not enough, all the grow diaries that I followed in world famous cannabic forums as CannabisCafe, UK420 or ICMag, pointed to the same direction. Every grower loved the results of these strains and some of them even decided to only grow F1 Fast

In the following years, the success of these strains led other seed banks to follow the same path, based on the same concept, adding a fast flowering range to their genetic collection, based on our research and breeding methods. That is something that we are not worried about,

most of the classics from our catalog into fast-flowering plants. For the 2018 season we introduce Crystal Candy F1 Fast Version® (SWS73) as the fast-flowering (6-7 weeks) photoperiod-dependent version of our Crystal Candy® (SWS58), a genetic awarded with the 1st Prize to the

Best Indica in the Spannabis Champions Cup - Barcelona 2017. Personally, as a lover of sweet strains, I truly enjoyed growing Crystal Candy® with all its resin production and super sweet terpenes. I also tried Crystal Candy Auto® (SWS61) and it was as delicious and easy to grow as the photoperiod-dependent version. So, when I had my first chance to get a couple of packets of Crystal Candy F1 Fast Version® (SWS73) I immediately sprouted 9 seeds to test this new strain from the Sweet Seeds® genetic collection in my grow closet with 80 cm x 80 cm and 160 cm of height (0,64 m2). I used a 400w High Pressure Sodium lamp, a 100 mm RVK extractor and two small fans to enhance air circulation inside the growing area. 6 of the 9 seeds sprouted within the first 48 hours and the other 3 seeds sprouted a couple of days later. They were first planted in small 500ml pots and then vegged with 20/4 for about 24 days. In the first 9 days they were placed under CFL lights because this type of lighting allows the grower to place the plants very close to the light as there is no significant heat produced by the bulbs. This prevents the plants from stretching too much in a moment when it is important to keep them short and with small internodal distance. By the 10th day from germination, I turned the HPS light on and started with a distance of 60

cm between the bulb and the plants. This distance was then gradually reduced, 5 cm every couple of days, until I got to the shortest distance possible: 35 cm in this case. All the plants shown an outstanding hybrid vigor since the first days of life and also a very

21 number of strong and flexible side branches (between 4 and 8 per plant) around a big main cola and most of the branches had a perfect light exposition. When I saw the first yellowing signs in some leaves, I started feeding the plants with organic bloom liquid fertilizer, using half the dosage advised by the fertilizer brand. I also used a flowering stimulator to improve flower and trichome production but also to stimulate the plants to develop the sweetest aromas possible. With F1 Fast Version® strains, after the fourth week of 12/12 everything happens very fast. The flowers thicken up a bit every day, the pistils start to show the first maturity signs and the plants stop growing to focus all their energy in bud production. With 5 weeks of 12/12 I knew that harvest was not that far away, so I gave them the final dose of liquid fertilizer and at day 39 I performed a flush to wash out all the traces of fertilizers from the soil in order to get a clean final product with the original tastes and aromas of Crystal Candy F1 Fast Version®. In the final 2 weeks of flowering the plants also show a very fast maturing, with all the buds getting truly compact while most of the pistils acquire brownish colours. At this point some of the lower leaves start turning yellow but it is desirable in this stage as it is a sign that the plants used most of their nutritional reserves, releasing chlorophyll and ensuring a soft smoke or vapor which allows for an extra pleasant experience, without sore throats or headaches. In the last 10 days the aromas take over the room with cotton candy notes. Crystal Candy F1 Fast Version® was developed within a special program of the Sweet Seeds® R&D Department focused on the search for curious, exquisite and subtle sweet aromas that evoke aromatic sensations of candy shop. This is why the aroma of this strain is sweet and fruity, with tones of chewing gum and interesting homogeneity regarding growth rate and structure. At around day 20 from germination the 9 plants were transplanted to the final 11 litre pots with a good light and airy soil bought in a growshop, especially designed for cannabis growing. I added perlite in a proportion of 10% regarding the total amount of soil to make the mix even lighter. The photoperiod was changed to 12/12 at day 24 from germination and the plants

started to show the first pistils about 6 days after the photoperiod change. As the soil mix was rich in nutrients, the plants found enough food on it for 3 or 4 weeks, so I only started to use liquid fertilizers when they entered the 3rd week of flowering. After 15 days of 12/12 the first flowers started to gain shape but the plants were still stretching. All the plants developed a good

fruit jellies, mixed with hints of acid strawberry and mature melon. This strain is a big producer of aromatic resin crystals that completely cover the flowers and their surrounding leaves with a very high density of long, large-headed trichomes. As I prefer to harvest the plants a bit more mature than most of the growers, the plants were harvested with 52 days of flowering, but they could have perfectly been harvested 4-6 days earlier. The final production per plant was also a very pleasant surprise. All the plants produced between 33 and 42 grams of high-quality dried and cured flowers. The average yield per plant was of 37 grams and the total final production was of 333 grams. The yield per square meter was 520 grams and the production per watt was 0,83 grams. One of the best yields I got in this 0,64 m2 closet. All this without taking in consideration the 8 grams of top quality dry hash that I extracted from the ultra-resinous manicured leaves with D WXPEOHU DQG D ƉP PHVK DV ZHOO DV WKH cannabic butter made with the remaining leaves that was enough to make 90 cannabic chocolate chip cookies. The plants look like Indica-Sativa polyhybrids and this is also reflected in the type of effect. Crystal Candy F1 Fast Version® allows for a well balanced effect standing between body relaxation and mind stimulation. It is possible to get a bit of euphoria, but totally controllable and with the possibility of performing creative work. It is ideal to play music, write, go to a party or to a concert but, at the same time, when you want to take a rest, you can do it and feel very pleasantly relaxed. This strain is definitely the key to get a delicious stash in the shortest time frame possible. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. Sweet smokes and happy fast growing!

Side note -> The F1 Fast Version® strains are the first filial generation (F1) resulting from the cross between a photoperiod-dependent genetic and an autoflowering genetic. The result of this hybridization between two stable and totally different plants (at least regarding the type of flowering) is known in genetic terminology as “F1 Hybrid”. The F1 Fast Version® strains are hybrid genetics, 100% photoperiod dependent and featuring a very fast flowering stage. For more information visit www.sweetseeds.com and read our technical articles about this family of strains.

GROW WITH STONEY TARK

UNDERSTANDING SATIVA CANNABIS Growing Cannabis requires a good understanding of the genetic spectrum that covers indica, sativa and hybrid varieties. As all strains originated as outdoor landraces, sativa genetics differ very much so from indica Cannabis, so below By Stoney Tark is better explained about sativa varieties.

WHERE DO SATIVA VARIETIES COME FROM? Found on the more equatorial parts of the planet, sativa cannabis can be located where climate is hot, and the season vary in accordance with their geographic location. When we think of haze we most commonly think of Amnesia Haze, however there are plenty more strains that

fall into this category. Landrace sativa can be found growing wild in places such as Africa, Thailand, Hawaii, Colombia, Mexico and Jamaica. As you can imagine the seasons in these places are ideal for sativa varieties. The characteristics of a full blooded sativa are long flowering times that can exceed 12 weeks, elongated side branches that produce flowers all the way up. Flowers when growing will be taller than indica flowers and there will be a noticeable difference in calyx development. Not that indica flower is superior to sativa flower, however in terms of bag appeal and weight per gram, a haze nug will be larger in size. Sativa varieties can grow vigorously and when flowered, will often stretch upto 250% of its original size. Growing with these strains indoors can be challenging especially if you have not have much experience with long flowering, sativa lines.

The characteristics of the leaves will be long, serrated with wide spacing between each finger. Literally the opposite of how a thick fingered, short, indica variety produces. Due to their natural climate, sativa varieties will not perform as well as indica or hybrid strains in places such as Northern Europe. Regarding short summers, cold and wet weather, unfortunately long flowering

sativa strains are their high levels of THC which can range from 20% upwards. There is a very little CBD cannabinoid level present in sativa varieties, which is why the effects can be very cerebral, long lasting, energetic, creative, motivativated and productive. Some of the original breeding blocks used in Haze lines were from Neville from Sensi Seeds. Many Dutch people are familiar the Neville’s Haze #1 as the original and best. A tricky strain to dial in with a 90+ day harvest date. Since that pinnacle point in breeding history, many new sativa strains were created. Some of those were G13 Haze, Cannalope Haze, Delahaze, Blue Haze,

Europe will struggle to grow any sativa varieties. Southern Spain is an excellent choice as the climate is Mediterranean. When growing indoors, you will require some understanding of the strain you are growing, or at least have the room inside to accommodate for a plant that can exceed 180cm. I would suggest utilising some type of tying down, pruning and super cropping before the flowering period, to allow you to control your canopy and the growth much easier. You must have patience also and ideally be a hard-core Haze lover, otherwise the investment in time, nutrients, lighting and so on can feel like a long winded choir with very little pay off.

THE FLAVOUR AND AROMA If the four main flavour groups are gassy, earthy, fruity and floral then sativa cannabis certainly covers the last two. The aroma and terpene profile of sativas found

sativas cannot cope so well as they struggle to finish off their bloom. Plant resistance may be much lower at dealing with threats from insects and pathogens, in comparison to an Afghani strain that is genetically coded to handle shorter summers and cold temperatures at night.

MEDICINAL PROPERTIES AND BREEDING BLOCKS As more information is being put out to medical users, it is important to stress that indica and CBD dominant strains are best suited for pain relief. Patients looking for a high powered THC Haze variety will not find any relief in term of soothing pain and discomfort, muscle tension, sleeping disorders, anxiety and for therapeutic reasons. The one thing mostly associated with

Silver Haze, Super Lemon Haze and the most popular these days Amnesia Haze.

WHO ARE SATIVA VARIETIES BETTER SUITED FOR? Growers who are fortunate enough to receive long summer months and a nice transition to the winter months, are able to grow sativa strains properly. Parts of Europe such as the UK and Northern

across the globe can range from tropical, zesty, vanilla, mango, lime, grapefruit and frankincense. Kush or Indica varieties can have a fuel, gassy or earthy body to it with a potent physical effect, whilst sativas are very floral and pleasant with a heart racing, head soaring high that can be classed as overwhelming for some in social scenarios. Hybrid strains which are a direct cross of indica and sativa can often be the happy medium for smokers who don’t want a lethargic body off the indica, or the racey, cerebral head high that pure sativas offer.

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TOP TIPS

On Using Water

Water is essential to all life on Earth and especially when growing Cannabis plants. The overall quality of your water and frequency applied can make a big difference in the way your plants grow. Below are my top tips to consider when using water in your garden. By Stoney Tark

HARD OR SOFT? Depending on where you live or where your water is sourced from, will determine if your water supply is in fact hard or soft water. The

water around the base of the pots as well as the centre will ensure the roots have an even distribution of nutrient solution, at least if feeding by hand.

difference between the two is the amount of Calcium that is left behind as a residue. Soft water is smooth and has very little salt residue after boiling or evaporation.

GOOD QUALITY WATER AND BAD QUALITY WATER

Nutrient companies can offer products that are customised to hard or soft water. It is also advantageous to know the quality of your water source before making any nutrient solution. My top tip here is to find out as much detail as you can about your local water source, or simply boil off a pan of tap water and see what residue is left behind.

To grow successfully in a hydroponic system, oxygen rich nutrient solution is provided. Especially more so with a DWC system,where the roots are actively submerged in the water. The roots of a Cannabis plant thrive off oxygen rich environments and so do beneficial bacteria and fungus that are helping the plants’ uptake of nutrients, Bad quality water will have an odour to it, that has formed over the stages of the water remaining stagnant.

WATER TEMPERATURE

Cold water holds more dissolved oxygen, however finding a happy medium of temperature to dissolved oxygen, should be done with the roots best interest in mind. Roots can react badly to cold temperatures, which can lead to stunted growth, unhealthy roots and a cold growing medium. I personally find warm water is the best for plants and to water thoroughly until you get drip through at the base. My top tip here is to

If you have ever smelt a drain pipe that has been left undisturbed and smelt the foul stench that smells like a mix of eggs and Sulphur. This is because the water has become a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria that live and reproduce. My tip here is to always add an air stone to your water supply if it sits in the same place, or is not directly from the tap.

HYDROGEN PEROXIDE The use of hydrogen peroxide when growing in hydroponic systems has many advantages. The main one is to keep pathogens and root disease at bay. Roots also absorb the oxygen allowing them to grow at a much faster rate in hydroponics. It is good to know that oxygen increases pH levels, so adding more air stones than necessary can have an adverse effect over a long period of time. My top tip here is that hydrogen peroxide will also kill any type

of bacteria, good or bad so make sure that if you are suing beneficial microorganisms, you avoid hydrogen peroxide.

PH AND EC Very important factors that will determine the quality of your water. Plants will utilize nutrients as they walk a fine line of acid and alkaline, secreting their own toxins to replace what is being used. Using a pen to perform a reading of potential hydrogen and electron conductivity will ensure your plants can absorb what they need to without needing to compensate. My top tip here is to invest well in a good brand of pen, and do not be scared to buy a space that you can keep around in case of emergencies.

REVERSE OSMOSIS If you live somewhere that the water source is not good quality, you can invest in a reverse osmosis filter. The way these work is by filtering out the water source at micron level until it is as clean as possible. The filtering process involves removing all minerals from the water source. The end result is water that has an extremely low E.C and most treated sources range in pH from 6.5-8.0. My top tip here is that using a reverse osmosis filtering system is a great way to provide drinkable, clean water for people and plants. It is well worth the investment.

GROW WITH MR. JOSÉ

By Mr. José / info@mrjose.eu

Is big cannabis business going to destroy home growing? What cannabis lovers, users and growers have long desired is now becoming a reality in many countries around the world. The wave of the cannabis legalization sweeps across the Western world. Although this is so far mostly about legalization for medical use and there are only a few states that legalized fully, in many cases, the legalization kickstarted a whole range of commercial enterprises. How do these tendencies affect the cannabis culture and how would they affect the common home growers?

CANNABIS CULTURE BEFORE LEGALIZATION The members of society who indulge in a recreational cannabis use evolve diversely in different parts of the world. The major influence is mostly local laws and the approach of the mainstream society towards cannabis. A few years ago, you could legally buy weed only

by them. But that was still was nothing compared with what was to follow.

MEETING OF TWO WORLDS

Growers, producers of seeds and manufacturers of growing equipment mostly wanted cannabis to be legal. They believed that by stepping out of the

THE PRICE OF THE HOMEGROWN PRODUCT CAN NEVER BE HIGHER THAN A PRICE OF THE COMMERCIAL PRODUCT. in the Netherlands. Ironically enough, it is not that easy over there anymore, while some countries including various US states, Spain, and Uruguay, decided to take a more relaxed stance towards this substance. Decades of cannabis prohibition gave rise to a closed group of its supporters composed of growers, users, patients, and many activists fighting for legalization. Such a group with common interest always creates demand for specific goods. Cannabis culture was no exception – it gave birth to a market with tools for growing, seeds, smoking devices, grinders, and many other goods. Everyone who took part in this development was in some way associated with the plant. The offer grew hand in hand with the growing demand. The market kept slowly enlarging and cannabis fairs began popping up around the globe. Today, these events remain to be the biggest meeting place for all the fans of the cannabis culture. It was during the stage of the development of this news industry, when faces that did not previously belong to the movement started appearing on the scene. Traders, managers and sales representatives, for whom the cannabis community was before a mere bunch of junkies, stopped being afraid of starting their own businesses on the cannabis market because of interesting amounts of money waiting there to be seized

underground, the cannabis movement will get new opportunities and that they would finally get a chance to spread their business around the whole world and show they are ready to supply the globe with their great harvests, long nurtured strains and high-tech growing gadgets. However, the big business and the cannabis culture are two completely different worlds. The wave of the legalization of medical cannabis brought a huge opportunity to earn considerable money. The longforbidden cure was promising wide possibilities and at least millions of potential patients were too large a lure for the big investors to be overlooked. Although cannabis culture has some economic potential, it can be hardly compared to the massive amounts of money waiting in the pharmaceutical or agricultural industry. The investment options into research in genetics and new technologies are a different area altogether. Giant companies like Monsanto and Bayer are investing millions of dollars every day into the research of all different kinds of fields! For them, cannabis culture is just a random group of potheads and dealers that hide in dark wet cellars and whose experience and opinions are completely irrelevant and often misleading. Recently, while I was attending a seminar in Berlin, I was lectured by an American gentleman

that we have no idea about drying and curing of cannabis at all. You see, the man owns a company that produces gels that keep a certain level of humidity in musical instrument cases and containers that hold food and herbs. His contempt for our subculture was almost palpable, and he is far from being the only case.

GROWING

Big capital involvement in the cannabis industry perhaps does not look as many of us imagined. Still, this does not mean that it is not of benefit. In my opinion, such investments can increase our knowledge about cannabis in many different respects. Nonetheless, if we want to learn to understand the plant that we grow or

consume better, we must have personal experience. But thanks to exact laboratory tests, we can do chemical analysis of the plant and examine the influence of different factors on the growing process and resulting content of chemicals in the final cannabis product.Science is a highly efficient tool that can help us improve the way we grow and approach the cannabis plant as a whole. Some people say that home growers will vanish after complete legalization because the big companies will be able to grow a uniform standardized product for the minimum price. I don’t think this will be the case. First and foremost, the price of a homegrown product can never be higher than a price of the commercial product. Second, even if we can go to a shop and buy an extract mixed precisely according to our needs, the homegrown product still has an added value, which any other product can never have. It’s all about passion. Do you remember the feeling when you see the vegetable grow in your garden and the taste it gets thanks to all the hard work you put into it? Anybody who has ever tried growing even the smallest clump of chives knows what I’m talking about. In my opinion, the answer to the question in the headline is that the big cannabis business and small home growers will continue to exist alongside each other. In the same way, we have commercial and home cultivation of vegetables. I wish you always have all the vegetables you need.

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As you would expect with our Queen, we invested much time and energy into her preparation. By the time she stepped into the limelight she had been bred over several generations, using the genetics of original classic lines; and she didn’t disappoint when she arrived. A High Times Cannabis Cup prize winner, Opium was an instant hit with the growing community. The characteristics we channeled into Opium have created a strain with stand out qualities. The plant grows strong, with a thick stem and bushy side branches. This gives it the tools to produce BIG and heavy buds that are trichome rich. 50% / 50% 56-60 Days

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By Jorge Cervantes – jorge@marijuanagrowing.com

METERS

Part 2 ELECTRIC AND LIGHT METERS

use. Matching lamp spectrum to the PAR requirements of the plant is important.

Light meters measure light intensity and spectrum. Inexpensive to moderately priced meters measure light in footcandles, lux, and lumens. These

You can use a light meter that measures foot-candles, lux, or lumens to measure the intensity of sunlight, HP sodium, metal halide, CFL, and fluorescent light.

accurately perform hundreds of tests. More expensive models are quite accurate when properly calibrated. These meters must be regularly calibrated to ensure their accuracy. The inexpensive probe meters are not very accurate, and the intermediately priced

to inaccurate readings. An automatic temperature compensation (ATC) feature makes meters much more convenient and accurate.

NUTRIENT (IONIC SALT) METERS

EC = electrical conductivity ppm = parts per million CF = conductivity factor TDS = total dissolved solids Different measurement systems all use the same base, but they interpret the information differently. Let’s start with electrical conductivity (EC), the most accurate and consistent scale. EC is measured in millisiemens per centimeter (mS/cm) RU PLFURVLHPHQV SHU FHQWLPHWHU Ɖ6 cm). One millisiemen per centimeter = 1,000 microsiemens per centimeter.* EC is the most accurate measure of total ionic salts in solution. An EC

Sunlight is generally perfect for cannabis growth, and there is little we can do to change it. Light intensity meters that measure foot-candles, lux, and lumens are accurate when measuring the intensity of lamps with known PAR ratings. Indoors, always use lamps with the highest PAR rating. PAR or quantum light meters often claim to accurately measure the photons or light particles that plants need to grow. Meters often measure lux and then convert to PAR. High-quality sophisticated quantum meters can switch to measure “sunlight” or “electric lamps.” Quantum light meters display a specific numeric PAR value in the LED screen. A PAR meter is not necessary to measure natural sunlight.

SOIL, NUTRIENTSOLUTION AND WATER METERS pH meters measure the potential hydrogen (pH) in a substance or solution. Measurement and control of pH are essential to healthy medical cannabis gardens.

Light meter

scales measure light that is visible to humans—400 to 700 nm (nanometers). But, plants do not use the entire light spectrum equally, and light sources do not generate spectrums equally. While our eyes may see only the blending of the light frequencies, plants are looking for specific wavelengths to trigger responses in the various photosystems. PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) light is the spectrum fingerprint plants need to see, and anything else, while we may see it as very bright, the plant does not see or

Digital meters measure electrical current between two probes and are designed to work in water and moist soil. The growing medium must be moist for an accurate reading. Digital electronic meters can make thousands of measurements with little or no additional cost per test. Electronic pH meters are economical and convenient. Less expensive pH meters lack automatic temperature compensation but are accurate enough for casual use. Intermediately priced digital pH meters contain a glass bulb electrode that must be kept clean and moist at all times. Proper maintenance ensures accurate readings. Digital pH meters—when properly maintained and calibrated—can

Potential Hydrogen (pH) meter

meters also have accuracy issues. Pay special attention to soil moisture when taking a pH test with an electronic meter. The meters measure the electrical current between two probes and are designed to work in moist soil. If the soil is dry, the probes do not give an accurate reading. More-expensive models contain a glass bulb electrode that must be kept clean and moist at all times. Failure to maintain the tester properly could lead

meter measures the overall volume or strength of elements (ionic salts) in water or solution. *millimhos and micromhos are other units of measurement often used for plant recommendations. 1 millisiemens = 1 millimhos = 1,000 microsiemens = 1,000 millimhos Parts per million (ppm) meters actually measure in EC and convert to ppm. Unfortunately, the two scales (EC

29 and ppm) are not directly related. Each nutrient or salt gives a different electronic discharge reading. To overcome this obstacle, an arbitrary standard assumes that “a specific EC equates to a specific amount of nutrient solution.” Consequently, the ppm reading is only an approximation. Also, manufacturers of nutrient testers use different standards to convert from EC to the ppm reading. Every salt in a multielement solution has a different conductivity factor (CF).

ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY (EC) METERS

measure the overall volume or strength of elements in water or solution. A digital LCD screen displays a reading of electrical current flowing between the two electrodes. Pure rainwater has an EC close to zero. Check the pH and EC of rainwater to find out if it is acidic (acid rain) before using it.

make sure your nutrient solution and stock solution are at the same temperature. Inexpensive meters last for about a year; expensive meters can last for many years. However, the life of most EC meters, regardless of cost, is contingent upon regular maintenance. The meter’s probes must be kept moist and clean at all times. This is the most important part of keeping the meter in good repair. Read instructions on care and maintenance. Watch for corrosion buildup on the probes of your meter. When the probes are corroded, readings will not be accurate.

conversion figure becomes exceedingly inaccurate. The most accurate measure is osmotic concentration (or EC) because this is what the root systems respond to in a nutrient solution. Parts per million meters measure the overall level of dissolved solids or fertilizer salts. Each fertilizer salt conducts different quantities of electricity. Use a calibrating solution that imitates the fertilizer in the nutrient solution to calibrate ppm or EC meters.

Digital dissolved salt meters are used to measure the overall strength of a nutrient solution. Nutrient (ionic salt) concentrations are measured by their ability to conduct electricity through a solution. Several scales are currently used to measure how much electricity is conducted by the concentration of ionic salts (nutrients) between two electrodes. A digital LCD screen displays the reading in one of the following scales: CF, DS, EC, ppm or TDS, which all measure the same thing: dissolved ionic (fertilizer) salts. Each meter has a different scale but more sophisticated meters are able to make readouts in several scales including CF, EC, ppm, and TDS. Most North American gardeners use the ppm scale to measure overall fertilizer concentration. European, Australian, and New Zealand gardeners use EC, however they still use CF in parts of Australia and New Zealand. Parts per million is not as accurate or consistent as EC to measure nutrient solution strength. The difference between CF, EC, ppm, TDS, and DS is more complex than originally meets the eye. Different measurement systems all use the same base, millisiemens per centimeter, but they interpret the information differently. Electrical Conductivity (EC) meter Pure water will not conduct electrical current, but when elemental salts/ metals are added, electrical conductivity increases proportionately. Simple electronic meters measure this value and interpret it as total dissolved solids (TDS). Nutrient solutions used to grow cannabis generally range between 500 and 2,000 ppm. If the solution concentration is too high, the internal osmotic systems can reverse and actually dehydrate the plant. In general, try to maintain a moderate value of approximately 800 to 1,200 ppm. The EC should stay below a high of 2.7.

Distilled bottled water from the grocery store often registers a small amount of electrical resistance, because it is not perfectly pure. Pure water with no resistance is very difficult to obtain and is not necessary for a hydroponic nutrient solution. Electrical conductivity measurement is temperature-sensitive and must be factored into EC readings to retain accuracy. High-quality meters have automatic and manual temperature adjustments. Calibrating an EC meter is similar to calibrating a pH meter. Simply follow manufacturer’s instructions. For an accurate reading,

A dissolved solids (DS) measurement indicates how many parts per million of dissolved solids exist in a solution. A reading of 1,800 ppm means there are 1,800 parts of nutrient in one million parts of solution, or 1,800/1,000,000. Make sure to calibrate your meter before using it.

A TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS (TDS) METER measures solution EC and uses an approximate conversion scale to convert to ppm. The conversion is not very accurate because solutions that are composed of different elements will have different ppm values. One

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) meter Using such a solution ensures that the meter readings will be as accurate as possible. For example, 90 percent of ammonium nitrate dissolved in water is measured, and a mere 40 percent of magnesium is measured! Do not use sodium-based calibration solutions. They are intended for other applications than gardening. Purchase calibrating solution from the manufacturer or retailer when you buy the meter. Ask for a stable calibrating solution that mimics your fertilizer. Calibrate EC and ppm meters regularly.

This is the second part of an excerpt from chapter 15, “Meters” from the Cannabis Encyclopedia (596 pages, 2,000+ color images, large A4 format) by Jorge Cervantes, available on amazon. For more information please see Jorge´s website, www.marijuanagrowing.com.

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32 OLD SEEDS

I have some seeds I found in my desk that are over 20 years old. Will they grow? Probably not. Seeds expire fastest when they are kept warm. Cool (refrigerator) temperature extends their viability. Constant freezing preserves the living seed for years. Seeds kept in a desk drawer at room temperature usually have viability for just a few years. If you have a large number of seeds you could crack a few open to see if the little embryo inside is still alive fresh and alive. If they are dried or deformed then they are dead or damaged and will not germinate. Old seeds take longer to germinate than fresh seeds. They may take up to two weeks to pop. The reason for this is that the enzymes and hormones used for the process have lost their chemistry or evaporated. With fewer enablers the germination process slows. The hormone and enzyme deficiency creates viability problems. Most seedlings die soon after germination, after their cotyledon leaves or first set of serrated leaves open. Only a small percentage of them usually get past this point. These plants are usually weak, rather than vigorous. They are not necessarily a wasted effort because they can be used for breeding. There is a general assumption that one reason germination is prolonged is that the shell has hardened and is more impervious to water, so it has a hard time penetrating the shell. I don’t think this is so, instead that the problem is internal, with the embryo, as I described above. To alleviate some of this difficulty it’s suggested to scuff the shells using a fine sandpaper, or to slice them slightly with a knife. Others suggest soaking them in water with additives for 24-48 hours to start the germination process. On the other hand, using DMSO, which helps water penetrate both the shell and cell membranes while carrying solutes with it, some experimenters were able to increase germination rates, but the seedlings all died within days or weeks. Perhaps using DMSO and humic acid and Nitrogen (N) asdescribed below might help with survival. Recipes for eight ounces water include ¼-1/2 teaspoon hydrogen peroxide, ¼ teaspoon humic acid and or molasses or sugar. These are of marginal value, regarding germination, but the humic acid and sugars may provide some strength to the seedlings. Plant the seeds shallowly in sterile planting media and add mychorrizae. Use the humic acid and molasses formula as well as a small amount of N such as 1/8th teaspoon of high N fertilizer with micros, fish emulsion fertilizer or high N guano. This will support the initial growth and may help the plants to start photosynthesizing fast to get past the vulnerable postgermination stage. Use a heat mat to keep the temperature at between 22.20-23.30. Expect to wait to see the plants germinate. A light spray with the water formula might help. Hope for miracles- That is, a viable plant.

DIGITAL MICROSCOPES

I saw an electronic magnifier that plugs into your computer. You can use it to spot pests. Do you know where I can find one?

Look up digital microscopes on an internet search site such as Google or one on the sales sites. You will find scopes ranging in price from a few to thousands of dollars.

VARIED EFFECTS OF CANNABIS

Are all THC molecules the same? If so what works in conjunction with it to change the effect and experience of one strain’s euphoria vs another’s laid back effects if they both have the same percentage? In most cannabis you will find mainly Delta-9 THC. Often varieties have small amounts of other cannabinoids. Some of these other cannabinoids such as CBD and CBG have calming affects but are not psychotropic. None of the cannabinoids have an odor. You have probably noticed that odor is related to cannabis’ effects. These odors are produced terpenes, the ingredients of plants’ essential oils. Essential oils and the terpenes they contain are the key ingredients in aromatherapy. They can have both physical and psychological effects. Dr. Rafael Mecholum, who discovered THC, calls the combined effects of THC (and perhaps other cannabinoids) and the terpenes the entourage effect. He “described what millions of marijuana users had discovered long ago, that the terpenes and THC affect the body’s processing of each other and change the entire experience. Together they are responsible for the strain’s different effects.

FINISHING PRODUCTS

In your book, Marijuana Harvest, you talk about

finishing products and their ingredients. I have been growing for about 7 years (2) rooms using a popular brand’s planting mix and fertilizers products with success. Now I’ m wondering if I‘m missing out, just sticking to one line? If you are curious about some of the bud enhancers and finishing products mentioned in Marijuana Harvest you owe it to yourself to experiment with them. Set aside a separate space or separate irrigation system to test them against your standard fertilizers and enhancers and make sure to keep all other conditions the same. Please report back. The manufacturers of these products depend on repeat sales. If they don’t work, who will buy them a second time?

SEASONAL BOTRYTIS

For the past 2 years botrytis has attacked my crops. I only use organic and environmental friendly products to manage this problem. It comes back right before harvest. The plants are grown in a greenhouse with raised beds, so changing the soil is not much of an option; it is well ventilated with drip irrigation. I foliar feed at night. I have been growing the same strain for the past 2 seasons, should I change varieties? If the botrytis once present, it is always present? Should I spray the whole greenhouse with a bleach solution, but what about the beds? The first step I’m taking is to learn about soil health and to improve the diversity of microorganisms. The second is, Out With Monoculture, which i'm seeing as not the correct way of growing any crops, so i am adding companion plants which will work as natural pesticides and nutrient cyclers.

33 Third is to never let the soil be exposed, so as to improve soil life and health. I'd like to think these steps I’m taking go in hand with preventing pest invasions and pathogens. Is there anything more that i can do maybe to fix the problem once and for all? First, let’s clear up your confusion regarding pests and diseases. Pests are animal kingdom creatures. Diseases are caused by pathogens such as yeasts, bacteria and viruses. Botrytis is a disease caused by a fungus, Botrytis cinerea. Its spores are airborne and not related to the soil. Botrytus is and environmental disease. As was mentioned, Botrytus is airborne and it’s everywhere so it will come in contact with your plants. It’s spores germinate easily when the relative humidity is over 50% and the temperature ranges from13 to 23 degrees Celsius. When you foliar feed at night you are increasing the RH to unacceptable levels. Stop increasing humidity by ceasing all foliar feeding from the second week of flowering. Botrytus germinates in acidic conditions. By spraying a 10% milk solution or pH Up on your plants the surface pH will change to unfavorable for the fungus, alkaline. Potassium carbonate also works well as a spray up to the first three to four weeks of flowering. These are good to spray on after a rain to prevent germination of spores spread by raindrops. Certainly improving the quality of the planting mix using bio-culture such as mycorrhizae, trichoderma and other beneficials is a good idea, but it won’t affect B, Cinerea. However, keeping the soil loosely covered helps thwart thrips and fungus gnats, lower humidity and increase time between irrigation. If you have a light deprivation greenhouse, set it to harvest the plants before the time before they are usually

year, you might consider growing in a closed loop greenhouse. Rather than using ventilation as part of the environmental controls, condition the air in the greenhouse using air conditioning and dehumidifiers. This will eliminate the disease by lowering the humidity below 50%, outside the fungus’ environmental range. This also gives you a chance to clean the air so it contains fewer pathogens.

Michigan for medicinal plant chemistry. I spend hours doing research and studying, reaching out to growers, pretty much anything I can to expand my knowledge in the field of marijuana. I want to the be the best I can possibly be. I was wondering if you had any advice, tips, secrets, or opinions on my plan, just anything that can help lead me in the right direction in this industry. Your goals and plans seem reasonable to me. Illinois is opening up to legalization and so are its neighbor states so you will be working in an industry with excellent growth. Many new people will be needed to run things. Your idea of getting formal education that is industry based through Oaksterdam U. and then to get a degree in agriculture and chemistry is laudable. My one piece of advice, while you are getting your education, intern with someone or an organization you respect to get a feel of things and to network.

LEAVES DROOP AT NIGHT

I am at the force flowering stage and I have noticed that when the light are out within a few minutes the plants wilt severely and when I check on them for the next 12 hours they are still wilted. After the 12 hours are up the lights turn back on and they look great. Is there a problem here?

attacked. If not change to varieties that are normally harvested before Botrytus season starts. I don’t recommend that you grow companion plants in the greenhouse. By keeping it just cannabis you can cater to its needs and not make any compromises.

UVC light is used to control powdery mildew. The light passes over the plants for just a few seconds daily, but it kills the pathogens and its spores. There are controlled ways to use the light without coming in contact with it since it is also harmful to humans.

During both day and night keep the temperature 22 degrees Celsius or higher, above the high end of the range of for the fungus. During the day it can climb as high as 290 Celsius increasing the plants’ growth.

NOT LACKING IN SOME DIRECTION

If you are located in an area with high RH during the

I am an 18 year-old high school senior living in Illinois I want to pursue my dreams of becoming a master grower. I plan to attend Oaksterdam University, then my community college before transferring to Northern

Plant leaves drooping at night is not a problem. It costs the plant energy to maintain the turgidity needed to maintain leaves upright. Since they are not attempting to catch moon-rays, during the dark period the plants let the leaves hang looser since there is no advantage to keeping them upright and t costs them energy. This is a phenomenon common not only to cannabis, but to other plants as well including many trees and garden plants. Using time-lapse photography you will notice leaves in different positions during the 24 hour circadian cycle. It seems to reactive to light rather than time, although plants “learn the cycle” and anticipate events based on repetition. Sometimes leaves begin to droop on plants several hours

34 before lights go out. This may mean that the leaves are maxed out on light for the day. They have had as much as they can handle and are not trying to capture any more for photosynthesis.

LIGHT REGIMEN MISTAKE

One week after adjusting the lights to 12-12 for flowering, the lights left on for 36 hours. That was one 12-hour period that was supposed to be lit, 12 hours that should have been off but were left on and the regular 12 hour lit period again. What should I do? The plants will take it in stride and it will have little total effect on flower yield or quality. You should get a timer that is reliable and start using it immediately.

LIGHT REGIMEN MISTAKE 2

I have a couple of indoor plants that are 5 weeks into flowering. They are not developing well. The buds are tiny, very airy and sparse. They are very different than my past results and look more like two or 3 weeks of flowering instead of 5 weeks.

Mobile nutrients can move around the plant to the section where they can be used most advantageously. Nitrogen (N) is one such nutrient. If there is a deficiency the plant moves the element from lower portions to the top of the canopy. Other mobile nutrients are Phosphorus (P) in the form of phosphate, Potassium (K), Magnesium (Mg), Chlorine (Cl), Zinc(Zn) and molybdene (Mo)

THC at the end of the boil or directly to the bottle, but they're not using decarboxylated concentrates, only tinctures.

Immobile nutrients have a fixed position in the plant. Once they are absorbed into the tissue they are locked in place. They are Calcium (Ca), sulfur (S),iron (Fe), boron (B) and copper (Cu).

SEEDED BUDS

HIGH CO2 AT NIGHT

The CO2 level in my sealed grow room goes up to 2000 ppm and higher during the dark period. Is this negatively affecting yield and quality? I don’t think that plants will indicate a stress mode from 2000PPM CO2 during the relatively inactive dark period. The plant absorbs CO2 only during the lit period when it is photosynthesizing.

THC boils at about 1900 C or higher. So boiling water at 1000C should not affect it.

The plants are two weeks into flowering and all the plants have immature seeds in every node and calyx. What can I do to save it? Is there a chemical that will stop those seeds from maturing? Other than this, things are growing faster than I’ve ever seen. The plants have never had nugs this big in week 2. First question? Have you found the culprit? Was it a male or a sneaky hermaphrodite? Or was it a result of general hermaphroditism in the group? If the latter then there is not stopping the seeds because of continued pollination from new male flowers. The buds will best be used for concentrates.

Upon closer inspection I noticed one of my timers was at fault. During the 12hr dark period right through the 5 weeks this timer was coming back on for 15 minutes after being off for 3 hrs. The space would go dark and then 3hrs later this one light would come on for 15 minutes and then go off leaving the room dark for the rest of the period, which was 8hrs and 45 min. The problem has been fixed. Assuming the plants look like they are at 2 or 3 weeks flowering stage should I just let them flower for another 5 weeks? Then they will flower for a total of 10 weeks, although the variety usually takes only 8 weeks to flower. Do you think they will take more time to develop or will they just reach maturity at 8 weeks? As you described, the plants were receiving mixed signals about flowering. This has affected the growth. I think your speculation that it has also affected the chronological pattern of development is correct. The plants’ development is at an earlier stage than the 5 weeks the plants have spent in flowering.

LIGHTING HAWAII

I’m growing on the island of Hawaii. I moved my indoor vegetative outside where we have at most 14 hours of light on June 22, the longest day of the year. We turn on turn the lights on at 9PM, 2AM and 3AM. How long should each blast of light be? Doing ten minutes now. An individual leaf needs only a few moments of red light to restart the count to a critical darkness time period. The chemistry that deals with this is changed back to the active state, which prevents flowering, with just a short light duration. The reason the lights stay on longer or move is to make sure that most of the plant receives the light. Even a gentle wind causes movement, exposing more of the plant to it. A moving light changes its angle in relation to the plant, also exposing it more completely.

MOBILE NUTRIENTS

In the section marked Nutrient Deficiencies of your Marijuana Growers Handbook you write about some minerals being "Mobile", where others are not. What does the term “Mobile” mean in this context?

The CO2 level rises during the dark period because it continues metabolic, that is, life processes and growth, during the dark period. It burns the sugar it has produced for energy to engage.

ADD CONCENTRATE BEFORE BOILING WIRT

I’m working diligently to create a product using a decarboxylated oil concentrate that is 73% THC. Will the psychoactive effects diminish if it is boiled with the wirt for 60 minutes? All the recipes I can find add the

If the seeding was the result of sloppy male inspections or a few sneaky hermaphrodites, then with their elimination any new flowers will be seedless. If it is only lightly seeded new flowers will start growing. These flowers will be seedless, but will be part of a bud or cola that contains buds. If the buds were heavily seeded there is a good chance the plants will go into senescence as the seeds mature. There is no chemistry I know of which will reverse the damage caused by the pollen.

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GROW WITH ROBERT B.

By Robert B.

OVER-FERTILISATION WHAT TO DO?

You can still save the day! There are various opinions on how to fertilise best. A few growers fertilise too little, others too much. Out of caution, it’s better to fertilise less, as plants totally absorb fertiliser in this case. When too

away for free. Virtually any fertiliser - not merely a broad-spectrum fertiliser but also individual components or additives – could be used in excessive quantities. Depending on which substances critically

much iron in a flower booster

much fertiliser is used, plants can be damaged, or may even die. If plants fertilised beyond a critical limit are harvested, the quality would be so bad that you will not even be able to give them

indications are leaves losing colour or getting rolled up. Depending on genetics, however, the dying-off of large leaves could be pretty normal. When little light is received in the lower parts, at the end of bloom period, leaves turn purple. Therefore it is important to correctly interpret symptoms for a peculiar type of genetics, as in some situations the plant could be perfectly vital. However, if one or a few ingredients are fed in a critically excessive proportion, the plant will first

recommend EC values, their indications relate to genetics that can withstand a large fertiliser quantity. However there are also old strains or special Haze genetics that are fertilised beyond acceptable limits despite these ‘normal’ indications. A grower therefore cannot safely say that, during the bloom period, a range of 1.4 to 2.2 EC is usually ok for fertilisation. This can either be right or wrong. What counts is to gather information on the selected genetics before growing a plant and monitor how the various indicators perform during its growth. In certain situations, the indications of fertiliser manufacturers could be wrong even for genetics that can withstand a large quantity of fertiliser. If a grower operates a hydroponic system with 20% drainage, which washes the fertiliser away and this 20% is not even observed and no effective drainage is made, the fertiliser may easily become absorbed and accumulate in the growing substrate (i.e. stone wool or CoGr). Or the grower may operate a recirculation system, in which used water is recovered and reused for further watering. The crop will more rapidly absorb water than fertiliser, which will accumulate in the water tank. The EC value in the remaining water may rise and overcome a critical threshold. There are growers who have simply put stone wool into pots, without protecting them against evaporation. Evaporation was so high that plants were already over-fertilised long before harvest and they finally withered. Depending on the specific situation, fertilisation should also be adjusted independently of the plant genetics.

Less fertiliser for the growth phase

overcome the threshold value, the effects on plants will vary. There are therefore no general indications that would tell you that an ingredient is present in a critically high proportion in the substrate. A few

start to suffer, then stop growing and finally wither. Over-fertilisation is a delicate topic. When fertiliser manufacturers

Growers who notice the effects of over-fertilisation invariably make a typical mistake, i.e. they totally suspend fertilisation. If signs of over-fertilisation are visible, normally this means that

37 the substrate shall be rinsed with PH-adjusted water at a suitable room temperature. If fertiliser traces are washed away from the soil, the plant can again become vital. This technique also functions if the critical value for a single substance is overcome. Even if the grower has wrongly interpreted a given situation and fed an excessive quantity of this substance, rising will not be a bad solution if the substrate is later fertilised normally - provided that a good broad-spectrum fertiliser is used, in which the ingredient is contained in a small quantity, that the grower has not further worsened the situation, and that the ingredient has not been dissolved (often fertilisation is done in the wrong way, the wrong fertiliser is used or the fertiliser is fed in the wrong dosage). It is also not a bad idea to rinse the substrate if

clear right from the start. On the other hand, if even a single substance has been fed above the critical threshold, rinsing is indispensable. In any case, growers should use complete (i.e. broad-spectrum) fertilisers and avoid using nutrients individually, as they will most likely tend to make errors and frequently forget the indispensable trace elements. The EC value can also be measured in drainage water exactly as it is measured in irrigation water. Since, normally, EC accumulates in the substrate, the EC value is generally higher in drainage water then in irrigation water. This is not negative but rather normal and even beneficial. However, it should be considered that a given type of genetics only tolerates a specific EC value in the substrate. Growers can easily

Fresh CoGr mats should be rinsed underneath when they soak fertilisation has already reached a critical stage, whereby the plant ends up being damaged and its growth stops. At this stage, if the plant is further irrigated with PH-adjusted water and

be able to overcome the problem and therefore will remain impaired. The problem will therefore not be solved and, if the grower uses tap water with the typical EC value of drinkable

An EC measuring instrument

PH measuring instruments

the plant growth has already stopped, it can no longer take the fertiliser from the substrate in order to gain a green colour. The plant will remain in an over-fertilised substrate, will not

water, he will also add nutrient salts and worsen the situation even more. Suspending the fertiliser may only help if over-fertilisation has not reached the critical limit. Beyond that limit,

there is a suspect of over-fertilisation, even if it is not necessarily true. If, on the other hand, over-fertilisation has reached a critical stage, then the grower should use at least as much water for rinsing as required to equal the volume of the substrate. If water coming out of the substrate is visibly coloured, this is an indication of overfertilisation. After rinsing water should come out only slightly coloured. When water becomes again clear, this means that plants again need fertilisation. Depending on the fertiliser used and the degree of over-fertilisation, water may look differently at the beginning and at the end of rinsing. It can even be

assess these values by performing measurements in drainage water. If they have assessed for their genetics that a value of e.g. 2.6 is tolerated, above which it would be too much, and a value of 2.2 has already been reached, this means that irrigation water should be less fertilised in order to avoid later rinsing. Significantly, plants that are forming roots or growing need a lower EC value in the substrate in order to properly develop. Growers who reuse stone wool, CoGr or soil are required to rinse them thoroughly three days before harvest, for a plant to mature healthily and for the substrate to be perfectly reusable with a low EC.

GROW WITH STONEY TARK

By Stoney Tark

THE FLOWERING STAGE

PLANTS STRETCHING TOO MUCH

A grower’s ability to control the stretch is based on a number of things, ranging from genetics, set up, experience and environmental factors. The plants will stretch from the point of receiving 12/12 and the during week 1-3 is when the plants can double and almost triple in size. What can be done to prevent a tall, lanky plant is to apply relevant training just before the transition stage to flowering. Additionally pruning the lowest parts

flowering mix which is more custom to a higher ratio of available P and K.

THE TIPS OF MY LEAVES ARE BURNT ORANGE If your plants are growing well in accordance to your feeding schedule, however there is a noticeable bright orange burn at the tips of the fan leaves and newest leaves, then this is due to nutrient burn. Often caused by chemical fertilisers

COMPLETELY CUTTING OUT NITROGEN AND APPLYING HEAVY PK BOOSTERS IS NOT THE BEST IDEA AND CAN LEAD TO OTHER PROBLEMS LATER DOWN THE LINE below the top nodes, will ensure your plant produces on top heavy flowers.

HOW MUCH NITROGEN, PHOSPHORUS AND POTASSIUM? One interesting fact is that Cannabis plants use as much Nitrogen as they do Potassium. Completely cutting out Nitrogen and applying heavy P.K boosters is not the best idea and can lead to other problems later down the line. Many growers often choose to transplant into a

or an organic nutrient that was too heavy for the plant’s stage. When this happens you should hold back on the nutrients and feed only water to allow any remaining nutrients the ability to be dissolved by water and used by the root zone.

I HAVE POWDERY MILDEW GROWING ON MY LEAVES When powdery mildew enters the grow room, it can take a while for a grower to take any notice of it, due to the nature of the fungus. Close up under

a microscope, the mildew spore has actually attached itself to the surface of the leaf tissue. Once it has attached itself, it will spread throughout the rest of the garden attracted by moisture and poor air flow. A way to combat a powdery mildew infestation to use hydrogen peroxide and wash away, U.V light or an acidic base such as lemon juice. Poor air circulation and high moisture content are the primary causes of mildew to enter the garden from outside.

SPIDER WEB ON MY PLANTS

Often the worst case scenario for any grower and especially late on in the flowering stage. Losing a crop to spider mites is the absolute worse and sometimes cannot be avoided. If you notice spider webs forming on your plants, then they will have entered the grow room through untreated clones, clothing or through your air vents. Never use chemical pesticides and research predators that can be bought online to combat the spider mites.

LOWER POPCORN NUGS FORMING

We all hate lower schwag and not only are they are pain to trim, they also take away energy from your preferred top buds. Many people use these buds for making hash or emergency smoke, however you should think about pruning all of the lowest parts of the plants to avoid this happening. Stripping the branches almost bare will not only allow the top growth to be the only focus, it will also improve air

flow,cool temperatures down and prevent bugs and pathogens thriving..

HOW DRY SHOULD THE AIR BE AFTER 12/12? Cannabis plants will produce trichomes as they react to the light source and the humidity in the air. Aim for a humidity between the transition stage of 50% and reduce to 30% from week 3 and keep it there. This is important as it will push the plants to their maximum resin production and cannabinoid profiles, as well as keep pathogens at bay that need higher humidity environments to live. As long as the air circulation is plentiful and the relevant amount of air per hour is being recycled, you should find the happy medium between relative humidity, air flow and distance of the growing lights to the canopy.

MY BUDS ARE SOFT AND MOULDY!

The main reason your buds are soft, mushy and mouldy is because the air flow is not adequate and the humidity in the grow room is far too high. One problem many growers face is mould and mildew forming late in the flowering stage. A good way to prevent this from happening is to ensure the buds are not touching one another, or the walls of the tent and make sure the air flow in the garden remains the same rate as when it was during lights on. Keep your exhaust fans on after lights out, to avoid a build up of heat that cannot escape, turning to moisture amongst the plants.

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W W W . T H E J U I C Y J O I N T. C O . U K

INTERVIEW

By Stoney Tark

A DUTCH PASSION

EXPANSION IN TO CANADA Soft Secrets sat down with the Dutch Passion Seed Company to discover more about their recent expansion into the medical world of licensed Cannabis, outside of Europe.. This project is a huge venture and a first for Dutch Passion that will open the doors for the economy and medical patients whilst keeping big pharmaceutical profit driven parties out. With a recent legalisation in Canada, we find out more… Can you explain the recent expansion into Canada, Colombia and Australia?

Dutch Passion are currently involved in two partnerships for international medical cannabis and seed production in Australia and Colombia with MYM Nutraceuticals, and in Canada with Weed Me. The two year agreement with MYM gives rights to produce and distribute medical cannabis

issued by the Governments of Canada, Australia and Colombia. The companies specialise in cannabis production, they know how to set up a grow room with the right light intensities, environment, grow medium and nutrients. They have all had to submit detailed plans in order to obtain their grow licenses, and they all had to meet some stringent rules for grow room conditions which require really high standards.

well as selling cannabis to the Canadian public, Weed Me plan to export their products internationally to meet growing global demand and they are building an extraction lab, and a 1,200-square-foot research/testing lab, which is expected to be completed later in 2018. Weed Me have created a high-tech grow facility with state-of-the-art cultivation conditions. The research lab is very interesting to us, it allows a fully legal platform for some serious investigations for elite individual cannabis plants with special or unusual properties. This will be a fantastic asset for future seed varieties and breeding. It’s an example of how these projects can be mutually beneficial and help with future breeding of new varieties.

What is the long term aim of working on this project and how will it benefit those involved? The long term goal is to see well grown, top quality cannabis, cultivated under the best conditions from Dutch Passion genetics for medical/recreational buyers. The cannabis or pre-rolls could come in containers with our logo on, it will be nice for Dutch Passion enthusiasts to

to the variety. So this is a different type of approach, but one which we hope will appeal to consumers.

Do you have a specific way of growing that will be taught to the employees?

Its early days in the project, we will hopefully be able to say more about specific grow practices in the future. Weed Me are already quite clear that they are growing organically without pesticides. Precise methods may evolve over time as they figure out the best approach in each climate.

Will you grow indoors or outdoors, and what are your thoughts on light deprivation and growing in large greenhouses?

It depends on the grow location. Greenhouse growing is possible (and ecofriendly) in Australian and South American climates. We have seen some impressive greenhouse growing, and although it increases costs we do love to see LED supplemented greenhouse grows.

Can Dutch Passion ensure a clean, green way of growing and thinking is implemented, and how will you moderate your carbon footprint?

Weed Me was one of the first Canadian cannabis producers to be given the ACMPR (Access to Cannabis for Medical Purposes Regulations) license in Canada. Their cannabis production facility is thirty minutes outside Toronto and uses proven and tested cultivation methods alongside a highly qualified team. They specialise in growing organically without pesticides, and aim to become Canada’s largest highest quality cannabis producer. Where possible, in places like Australia and South America, greenhouse growing is used with some supplemental illumina-

Where the nutrients are mixed in the facility

products produced from Dutch Passion genetics in Australia and Colombia. The partnership with Weed Me allows them use of Dutch Passion genetics and cultivation expertise. The partnership also provides Weed Me with the Canadian branding rights for Dutch Passion-branded products such as branded buds/dry flowers and pre-rolled joints. There are plenty of cannabis producers that have set up in newly legalized areas, but not too many of them have wanted to make the seed genetics a central part of their plans. So it was exciting for us to find these projects where there was already a high value and focus on the genetics. As a seed company, that was important to us.

Soft Secrets: Who are your partners and what do they specialise in?

Like most other companies, MYM and Weed Me are new to the industry and were only able to form once the grow licenses were

Clean, organic, pest free grow conditions, with extraction and environmental controls - this is expensive to do on a large scale. MYM and Weed Me are both creating lots of well paid local jobs with holidays, pension, training and opportunities to progress. They have hired some experienced people and we are confident that they will do a great job pushing our genetics to their full potential. All products will be tested for purity and cannabinoid content, so customers will know exactly what they are buying.

What qualities did Dutch Passion look for when searching for future partnerships? We wanted companies that saw a high value in having known genetics as a core part of what they are doing. We also wanted to see that the plans were well thought out, we liked the impressive attention to detail especially in the grow room. One additional feature which attracted us to Weed Me was the ambition. As

A look at the brand new systems we will grow with

have the option to buy cannabis grown from genetics which they can read about and research for themselves. Much of the time, if you go into e.g. a USA dispensary the names don’t tell you too much about the genetics or the background

tion. We will be reviewing this side of the partnership and improving, many of us within the cannabis industry are automatically green-minded. Energy costs for indoor growing are always a major consideration for any licensed cannabis pro-

41 ducer, so reducing energy usage to the bare minimum is good business sense as well as a good ethical approach to carbon footprint reduction.

How do you think your progression will affect the current black market within these countries?

In theory, a regulated supply of qualitycontrol tested, clearly labelled cannabis should beat the black market. And in the case of medical cannabis in these countries, official supply may only be allowed from a fully regulated source. Black mar-

won’t reselling these from Amsterdam, at least not yet. The idea is the the Weed Me and MYM businesses will distribute (and maybe export) the products in line with local regulations, laws and agreements under their grow license.

How soon will your products be available and what will the restrictions be regarding laws and medical to recreational? In Canada there won’t be a restriction between medical and recreational, so it really depends on where you are. In Australia, the focus is on medical con-

Our facility from the outside

Canada is a cloning culture and there is a grey area surrounding seeds. How do you think this will change and what impact will it have on the way people grow? Wherever there are cannabis growers we have found that there is also a market for seeds. When you get a fantastic individual mother plant it’s natural to want to clone her. But variety is the spice of life, and for some people you can’t beat buds grown from seed. We expect Canada to develop

enrichment. CBD has created quite a stir, but other cannabinoids will follow. We also like to see testing to assure consumers that the products are totally free of pesticides or other harmful chemicals.

What are your thoughts on the direction of the Cannabis industry in Canada, Columbia and Australia?

The fact that Canada, Australia and Colombia are supporting these projects

Everything under one roof

ket suppliers get away with zero transparency about the way they grow, produce and distribute. For that reason you don’t always know what you are getting. That has been one of the great drivers for home grown cannabis, consumers want to regain control and knowledge that they are smoking quality cannabis produced under safe conditions. Preferably by people that are happy in their jobs, and know what they are doing.

As the laws become more clear, what end products from Dutch Passion can a person expect to buy?

We hope consumers will be able to buy containers of cannabis buds from various varieties. That could mean THC-rich as well as CBD-rich varieties. Pre-rolled joints are also popular in Canada, they will also be supplied from various Dutch Passion varieties and available in packs. Dutch Passion concentrates and extracts may also be available to buy. We should say that we

sumption. Just like the USA, where medical cannabis goes, recreational usually follows a few years later. In Colombia recreational and medical consumption of cannabis is allowed, so we imagine that and differences/restrictions between medical and recreational cannabis will be minimal.

What is the current stance on extracts and is this something that you will be working on?

Extracts can be a controversial area for some. Many cannabis lovers prefer natural, organically grown cannabis buds. Others feel that extracts can offer easier consumption routes, for vaping cartridges or for use in edibles. We think that cannabis extracts can be very useful. Imagine a personalised cartridge for a cannabis vaporizer. The use of carefully prepared extracts would allow you to select a cannabinoid ratio that perfectly suits your own needs, with the right levels of THC, CBD and any other cannabinoid that suits your own unique endocannabinoid system.

State of the art security installed

an increased fondness for seeds, and as the legal cannabis market starts to take hold we feel that seeds will take their natural place.

How important is the testing of cannabinoids and what developments can be made in this area?

These days lab testing and reporting for cannabinoids is mandatory for licensed growers. That’s a good thing, along with terpene analysis too. It allows consumers to know what to look for, and what suits them the best. We hope to see much more breeder activity in the area of minor cannabinoid

is a sign of how progressive these countries have become. For us, it's good to see that the local Governments insisted on seeing detailed plans and demanded serious investments from the project. In return they will get tons of top quality cannabis products for medical/recreational distribution. They get some highly skilled cannabis growers working with top class genetics in the best production facilities for decades to come. It gives them some level of national self-sufficiency in terms of a regulated cannabis supply, and a base to expand from. It has to be a good thing for the cannabis consumers.

GROW WITH ROBERT B.

REVERSE OSMOSIS SYSTEM HOW TO REMOVE SCALE, TOXINS AND NUTRIENTS FROM TAP WATER Drinking water supplied to urban dwellers normally has a nitrate value of 0.4 to 0.8 EC and this is a good output value to mix water with a nutrient solution for marijuana plants. However some people use their own water pumps to draw irrigation water with a nitrate level of up to 1.5 EC. You can add virtually no nutrients to water with this concentration to irrigate plants. If you do not have enough rainwater available to be used By Robert B. to dilute tap water, you will really be in trouble. However this should be no impediment to growers. Special systems are used to reduce the nitrate level of water to 0.6 EC (please note that a simple reverse osmosis system is not sufficient for a level of 1.5 EC.) These systems work like a normal reverse osmosis unit for aquariums but can be purchased from the sanitary area of a do-it-yourself store. Water is

months, we mixed irrigation water with nitrate-free water to water our plants. The output nitrate value was 0.6 EC. We could not find any difference in the plant growth and in the quality and quantity of the harvest. Plants do not necessarily need a good fertiliser and a small proportion of unusable nitrates do no harm. During the blooming season, instead, they need

systems, however, fertilisation should be carried out with the utmost care. Nitrates that cannot be assimilated by plants will accumulate and pollute the root system. In this situation you should probably use nitrate-free water to which a nutrient solution should be added. If you do not use nitrate-free water for irrigation, you will indeed need it for air humidifiers. Limy water should be avoided for all types of humidifiers, including ultrasonic humidifiers; otherwise lime scale will easily spoil them. You will notice a lime film on the surface of your humidifier if you are using water with a high lime concentration. Reverse osmosis systems should never get dry. If the system is not used, the inlet hoses should not deliver air to the membrane compartment but rather be bent upwards. Most of the time, the water tap of the reverse osmosis system is controlled manually, which frequently causes the water in the collecting tank to overflow. The tank can be placed in a bathtub or close to a drain. Another option is purchasing a solenoid valve and a float ball switch from a do-it-yourself store. The float should be fitted with 4 wires (those with only three cables are designed to pump water out of tanks). The grower should check when the tank

is full, as this will cause the solenoid valve to trip, which will shut down the reverse osmosis system. If the float switch remains suspended, it continues to convey current to the solenoid valve, which will continue supplying water to the reverse osmosis system. The system will then be powered off, if the float ball is brought to a vertical position, and water will not flow out of the tank, which will remain full. In our experiment we used a soundproof water pump to supply purified water to a Mist&Cool humidifier and spray water onto plants during the blooming phase. By a time relay, the pump was set to run for 20 sec. followed by a 5-minute pause to prevent the Mist&Cool to swamp the system. Later, a large ultrasonic humidifier was purchased to which water was supplied through the water tank installed above. This prevented the delicate membrane from being spoilt by lime scale and air was moistened even better than it was before (unfortunately ultrasonic humidifiers absorb more power than Mist&Cool humidifiers do). In doing so, water was not deposited on the surface, but the aerosol fog was rather spread in the air. The desired air humidity can be freely selected through a hygrostat. For this reason ultrasonic humidifiers are better devices for air humidification, however they should be mounted in the direction of incoming air. Small compact units with a four-litre tank could be hung at the same height as reflectors or above them. The advantage we found in this installation with a float and a solenoid valve is that you do not have to worry about anything. The tank with clean water is always full and the supply of water initially to the Mist&Cool and then to the ultrasonic humidifier is uninterrupted.

This shows a water tank with a lid. The lid has a free corner to which the cable of the float is attached. If pressed a little downwards this cable will lift the lid. If the lid falls, the float switch will continue to convey electricity to the solenoid valve, and water will be supplied to the reverse osmosis system. In this case the cable for the purified water was simply extended, and water is automatically pushed into the tank. If the float fails to reach a vertical position, it will not stop supplying power to the solenoid valve and the tank will overflow. pressure-pumped into the system and channelled over a couple of membranes, through which pure water goes through, whereas water containing nitrate is dumped. Water is not 100% pure but less wastewater will be produced. If nitrates in tap water are unsuitable for plants and you cannot add a sufficient quantity of cannabis fertiliser to irrigation water, then it would be better for the plants to be fed with clean nitrate-free water generated by a reverse osmosis system. We thought about it and, for six

a specific fertiliser dose for them to absorb a large quantity of a good fertiliser. However they use it only partially as most of it remains in the substrate or is drained away. If water from the tap has a value of 0.4 to 0.8 EC, this is good enough and no better water is required. So you can avoid wasting four litres of water for each litre of pure water. As an exception, self-contained systems are also available that work without drainage and a fresh nutrient solution can always be refilled. With these

This shows a solenoid valve, it must be connected to the float. The phase line is further connected through a lamp terminal to the solenoid valve, whereas the earth line is connected to the float. The earth line is connected to the brown cable of the float, and returns through the black cable. If water needs to be pumped out of the tanks, the earth should be connected to the blue cable, which will empty the tank – unfortunately this is not perfectly visible. The earth line is conveyed to the solenoid valve through the black cable of the solenoid valve.

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GROW WITH RICH HAMILTON

By Rich Hamilton

MIGHTY, MIGHTY MYCORRHIZAE

GIVE YOUR CANNABIS THE EDGE

The identification and culture of beneficial soil organisms has really come to the forefront of plant growth and nutrition in recent years. Lots of research has gone in to unlocking their properties as health, growth and quality improvers for your plants. Far from being damaging as most would first think on hearing the words, a high percentage of 'fungi' and 'bacteria' can and do help plants in combating diseases and makes them more efficient at taking up nutrients and water.

themselves without the existence of mycorrhizae. At least 80% of all land plant species have mycorrhizae and depend on it for survival. There is now evidence to prove that mycorrhizae are over 400 million years old and that it may actually be responsible for facilitating life on the land for vascular plants. What is for sure is that mycorrhizae and plants need each other to live their best lives. Most mineral soils contain Mycorrhizal fungi but more often than not it is at a level that is too low for effective colonisation of roots to occur, especially in the case of hydroponic and indoor growing where there will likely be no natural mycorrhizae present. Mediums such coco coir and those with a base of peat moss or bark are not composed of nor contain mycorrhizal

The best thing about this fungi and bacteria is that they are a totally natural occurrence and so by understanding them and using them to our advantage we can get the most out of our plants without having to stray too far from the natural order. A group of complex fungi exists within this sphere called Mycorrhizae (originating from the Classical Greek meaning "fungus root"). There are many mycorrhizae products available on the market today, maybe you have already used some, but do you understand what these fascinating organisms are? Or how they work? Well you will when you have finished reading this. Mycorrhizae is especially useful when growing cannabis. As we are going through the whole lifecycle of the cannabis plant in a compressed amount of time (around 3 months) the plants need all the help that they can get and using mycorrhizae can really super charge your crop. Improving results over all in terms of yield and quality. The fact that mycorrhizae is a completely natural substance too makes it even more of a no brainer to use as you can rest assured that you are not loading up your plants with unnecessary levels of chemicals that could leave traces in your final product that could affect taste, smell or be harmful to health. You can also think of mycorrhizae as being like an "insurance policy" for your plants as it assists in all kinds of stressful situations such as reducing nutritional deficiencies, delaying wilting, improving reducing root disease, preventing salt toxicity and most importantly for us, improving growth, fruiting and flowering! So let's do the science bit now and look at what it is and how it does what it does. It is a fact that there are whole ecosystems around the world that would not be able to sustain

THERE ARE MANY MYCORRHIZAE PRODUCTS AVAILABLE, BUT DO YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT THESE FASCINATING ORGANISMS ARE?

fungi strains that would be of benefit to your plants. Similarly if you are growing in a hydro system there again will be no mycorrhizae and so in both cases it must be incorporated by the grower. Not doing so will be to the detriment of your plants. There are between 100-200 types of identified mycorrhiza fungi in the

45 world, however the 2 most common classes are ectomycorrhiza and endomycorrhizae. Ectomycorrhiza is found mainly around tree roots and has most of its structure on the outside of the plant. The Mycorrhizae fungus that we are interested in however is the one that is found in plants and is called endomycorrhiza. Most of the structure of endomycorrhiza lies within the plant, actually growing in between cell walls and root membranes. Due to how invasively it occupies the root system this form of mycorrhizae has the most potential to us cannabis growers, as is about to be explained.

MYCORRHIZAE IS ESPECIALLY USEFUL WHEN GROWING CANNABIS.

Mycorrhizae is what is known as "symbiotic". Symbiotic means that the mycorrhizae fungi and the plant live together to mutual advantage. This relationship begins when fungal spores germinate and threadlike microscopic structures called hyphae are created. These hyphae enter the epidermis of the plant's roots and on completion of root colonisation they spread out densely into the medium and form a massive web increasing the surface area of the roots and

multiple plants including plants of different species. They can even connect with other forms of mycorrhizae to form a hybrid underground system called a common mycorrhizal network. This may sound like something out of a sci-fi film but it is even possible for plants to "talk" to each other. They do so through the common mycorrhizal network as they transport sugar supplies to different plants that are connected

would not usually be able to see them however occasionally the mycorrhizae will reproduce and send fruiting bodies to the surface, which in turn produce spores, otherwise known as... wait for it.....mushrooms!! Amazing. Who knew? In this symbiotic mutual relationship between the plant and the mycorrhizal fungi, the plant feeds the fungi by sending excess sugar that

case, even if the mycorrhizae did receive sunlight they still lack the properties to perform photosynthesis by themselves. The sugars from the plants therefore literally keep the mycorrhizae alive and thriving. In turn, as part of this symbiotic relationship, it is through the mycorrhizae that the plant is able to gain greater access to any available nutrients that may be in the soil especially those nutrients in the form of phosphates. This happens as the mycorrhizae fungus (mycelium) increases the root's area of absorption and also because the fungus is able to absorb and utilise nutrient sources that the plant's roots alone would not be able to access. To paint a clearer picture, imagine the mycelium as if it is a giant sponge that is attached to the plant's roots and can soak up a much larger amount of water and nutrients than the plant could ever take up by itself. The results from the extra absorption of the mycelium is that the plant is rewarded with a much improved and increased 'take up' of all the essential nutrient elements, but especially elemental Phosphorous (P) Zinc ( Zn) Manganese (Mn) Copper (Cu) and Water

within the network as and when they are needed, like a phone line or an Internet for plants!

was produced through photosynthesis and stored in the leaves, down to the roots, where the mycorrhizae can then absorb it and sustain themselves. The mycorrhizae need these sugars from the plant because they exist solely underground and so they receive no sunlight. In any

After looking at the science behind it, it is easy to see how exploiting the properties of mycorrhizae can have amazing results for your plants. The benefits are many and include improved root growth and health, an increase in flowering, fruiting, nutrient uptake, water uptake and over all

therefore the capacity for absorption. This web is called a mycelium and they can increase the root mass of the plant anywhere from 300-8000 times over. The hyphae are so small that unlike the plant's roots they can squeeze and push their way into every single tiny bit of soil and around

rocks and other obstructions that may be present in the soil. This ability to stretch out far and wide where otherwise the plant's roots would not be able to access is what makes the hyphae so extremely effective at collecting nutrients for the plants. The mycelium of a single mycorrhiza can extend outward, connecting

It can be hard to tell where one mycorrhiza ends and another begins as they are so small and intricately weaved together. Networks can be

extremely vast with one plant being connected to another of a totally different species as far as half way across a forest. Myceliums can have hyphae which are hundreds or even thousands of miles long, all compacted into a tiny area. It is estimated that there can be at least 200km of hyphae in every kilogram of soil!! They are so small that you

46 INDEX OF ADS yield. Mycorrhizae can also offer a possible reduction in fertiliser use, a resistance to salt toxicity, delayed wilting properties and a reduced risk of root disease and other deficiencies. As if it couldn't get much better it furthermore offers protection against many pests that can take hold in both the root zone and the main body of the plant. Plants that have seen the use of mycorrhizae also seem to be much more tolerant to being transplanted which is another great reason to use it when growing cannabis indoors as the routine can demand that your plants are transplanted several times throughout their lifecycle. As amazing as it is, like all other nutrients and additives that you may use it does have its tolerances and the conditions that it works best at so let's have a look at what they are. Temperature wise mycorrhizae are at their best between 68-73 degrees Fahrenheit, but they do have the ability to help your plants tolerate occasional extremes of temperature. In terms of pH, depending on the species of mycorrhizae, the general perfect pH range is between 5.57.5 (just like that for cannabis). Some species can tolerate more alkaline or acidic conditions and so the best bet when purchasing mycorrhizae products is to look out for one that is made from a blend of varying species in order to make a healthy mycorrhizae mix that will be suited and work well in varying pH conditions. Mycorrhizae fungi thrive best in conditions that are neither too moist nor too dry, they like to have a good even air to water ratio. Like temperature though, when it comes to moisture mycorrhizae has the ability to help your plants to tolerate any occasional extremes of moisture conditions that it would otherwise struggle to manage with.

Mycorrhizae is usually sold commercially in the form of powder or liquid and is versatile enough to be used in both coco and soil mediums as well as in all hydroponic growing systems including DWC, aeroponics and pretty much everything in between. Full application directions on how to use it within each system will be supplied with whichever brand you buy along with a measuring scoop or pouring cap, so be mindful to follow the directions and correct procedure for application for your chosen growing method. It is a very versatile product, in the sense that it can be applied at various points throughout your grow, from seeds to planting cuttings to use as a top feed every week or so when growing in soil or coco. The General advice when it comes to mycorrhizae is that the earlier that you start using it the better as the fungi spores can take a good couple of weeks to establish themselves after the first application. If you apply it from the seedling or cutting phase then you will find that you have to use a lot less to ensure colinization of your plants than you would if you wait until the plant is older. It also means that you will see the benefits quicker and that in the long term you will have hardier, healthier plants. What's not to like about that!! It is possible that using mycorrhizae with your seeds can even improve the germination rate! Which is a good enough reason by itself, aside from the many already mentioned, to try some out if you haven't already done so. In my career I continue to be constantly amazed at the ever growing list of benefits that can be linked to the smart use of organic matter. Mycorrhizae more than most is totally ideal for the indoor cannabis grower, as it fits perfectly into the grow cycle, giving you an advantage at every stage.

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COLOFON Soft Secrets is published by Discover Publisher BV P.O.Box 362, 5460 AJ, Veghel, Netherlands Telephone: +31-(0)73-5498112 E-mail: info@softsecrets.nl Web: www.softsecrets.com Editor: Cliff Cremer Contributors: Ed , Jorge Cervantes, Dr. John Dee, Stoney Tark, Rich Hamilton, Mr. Jose, Robert B., cccp, Thomas Valentine, Tommy L. Gomez and others. Comics: Jim Stewart

ANSWERS TO THE QUIZ: PAGE 14:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

C A B B C D A A A D

11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.

B C B A C D B A C A

Photography: iStock Editorial adress: readers@softsecrets.nl Advertisements: E-mail: info@softsecrets.nl A word from the publisher: Soft Secrets is a bi-monthly free magazine which is published in The Netherlands (called Highlife), Germany, France, Italy, Spain, UK, Poland, Czech Republic, Chile and Argentina. World wide there is a process going on of relative liberalisation towards the use of cannabis, be it for medicinal or recreational purposes. Several countries legalised cannabis as a way of separating soft and hard drugs, as it has proven to do in Holland. Other countries legalised

the use of medicinal cannabis, including the right to grow cannabis plants for one’s own use. The publisher wants to highlight the process of normalisation of cannabis use. This assumes that the publisher does not necessarily agree with everything that appears in articles and advertisements. The publisher therefore distances himself explicitly from published statements or images that might give the impression that an endorsement is being made for the use and/or production of cannabis. Nothing from this publication may be copied or reproduced in any format without prior permission from the publisher and other copyright holders. The publisher is not responsible for the content and/or point of view of advertisements. The editor takes no responsibility for unsollicited submissions. The publisher has endeavored to reach all copyright holders of photos and/or images. Those who still believe they are entitled to these rights may contact the publisher.

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