/ FLUID

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FL U I/ D

Billabong: Summer Solstice

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A look at Romy Sidelsky

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10 Questions you would never ask a female surfer

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Artist Bryn “Bird” Hall

Vol. 1

Issue #1

April 2012 $12.00



ISSUE/ 1


PHOTO: HALEY WELSH




CON TEN/ TS

FEATURES

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Billabongs’ 2012 Summer Solstice

Billabong has designed their 2012 Summer Solstice line for young women with a coastal mindset and an independent spirit.

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A Closer Look at Romy Sidelsky

Knowing everything about your best friend is one thing, but sharing it with the world is a whole different story.

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10 Questions You Would Never Ask a Female Surfer

You’d think that guys would have the balls to ask us these questions, but they haven’t. We had to make them ask.

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Artist Bryn “Bird” Hall

A surfer, illustrator, and artist, Bryn “Bird” Hall has been labeled as a “Surf Art” artist and doesn’t seem to mind it.

COLUMNS

03

Editors Note

09

Current News

11

Check out

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ASP Preview

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Travel Right

ON THE COVER Holly claims it in the Maldives... She hacked a path not taken. Sharks swim with her, but she hangs with seals. Her Visa is for clearing customs. She’ll let you keep up, but won’t be waiting. PHOTO: GNARGASM


PHOTO: HALEY WELSH


TOP PHOTO: RYAN TATAR / BOTTOM PHOTO: HALEY WELSH

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EDITORS/ NOTE

PHOTO: SARA LEAR


We Are Made of the Sea

Well, I’ve got one memory thats always been with me. My dad would get up to go surf about 4:30 or 5:00 and sometimes I would hear him and go out into the garage and see him taking down his boards. And one day I remember the waves were really good. And it was really cool just getting up and going down there, it was off-shore. I remember just sitting there watching my dad surf and from that point on, I always kinda like.. felt like a surfer, you know? I always knew that I would definitely.. be surfing forever. The best part of surfing is knowing I am at home. I believe we are made up of the sea. We lived in water before birth, and after we are born we sweat salt. It only makes sense that human beings are apart of the ocean. I go to the sea for everything, therefore, the sea is me. I go to the sea to surf it’s rolling waves that carry and embrace me. I go to the sea to think and let go of any stress in my mind and body. I go to the sea to remind myself that there is a big wide beatuiful world out there, and for those who want it, it’s out there. I live and breathe the salt air and will forever live for and in the ocean. Traveling and exploring every inch of the world I can surround myself with. I am always the happiest when surrounded by salt water. I hope that the sea and I will be together forever, because as big as the ocean is, I don’t think it would ever have the tiniest idea that it takes care of me and brings me comfort.

// Sea you in the ocean.

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PHOTO: HALEY WELSH


PHOTO: HALEY WELSH



CURRENT/ NEWS

Written by: Justin Cote JCote@TWS.com

Sally Fitzgibbons Rings it Again

Fitzgibbons goes back-to-back at the Rip Curl Women’s Pro Bells Beach

Sally Fitzgibbons, Bells Beach, Australia. PHOTO: ASP

Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS), 21, has claimed victory at the 2012 Rip Curl Women’s Pro Bells Beach presented by Ford Fiesta over four-time ASP Women’s World Champion Stephanie Gilmore (AUS), 24, in offshore four-to-five foot waves at Bells Beach.

“I felt like I was surfing pretty well and knew it was going to be a hard road. I thought I was consistently putting things together and surfing well and then I came up against a brick wall in Sally. It was a good Final and Sally deserved this win and she’s great for women’s surfing. Congrats to her.” Gilmore said.

The second stop on the 2012 ASP Women’s World Championship Tour, the Rip Curl Women’s Pro Bells Beach enjoyed a week’s worth of excellent waves and the world’s best female surfers rose to the occasion in fine fashion. In a hard-fought Final, it was Fitzgibbons who was able to stave off a late charge from Gilmore and claim the Rip Curl Women’s Pro Bells Beach for the second year in a row.

“It’s frustrating going down to Steph in that fashion but she’s really a tenacious competitor,” Wright said. “She’s so casual on land and we train together occasionally, but once she’s in the water, she’s really a dominant competitor. I feel like I’m surfing well though and an Equal 3rd is a good result. Looking forward to the next one.” Carissa Moore (HAW), 19, reigning ASP Women’s World Champion, was another standout throughout the Rip Curl Women’s Pro Bells Beach, but would ultimately fall to eventual winner Fitzgibbons in the Semifinals.

“I’m speechless,” Fitzgibbons said. “I’m so pumped. That was tough. Bells went to sleep on both of us and it got real tactical at the end. Steph only needed a small score and I just hung on for dear life. That wave she took at the end looked so small and I had a feeling there was going to be another set, but there wasn’t. I just can’t believe I won Bells two years in a row!”

“Semifinals is a good result but I’m disappointed in my performance there,” Moore said. “Unfortunately I couldn’t really get into a rhythm in that last heat, but it’s a keeper result and I’m looking forward to heading to New Zealand next week and hopefully posting a big result there. I love the waves and the people there and feel really comfortable in Taranaki.”

Gilmore, who appeared to be the form surfer of the event, was disappointed to not come away with the win, but her Runner-Up finish further cements her position as current frontrunner on the 2012 ASP Women’s World Championship Tour ratings.

THE/ STATS of Sally’s World Title events SOURCE: WWW.ASPWORLDTOUR.COM

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YEAR

2012 2011 2010

WAVE COUNT

24 68 14

MIN WAVE SCORE

3.43 2.9 6.33

MAX WAVE SCORE

9.8 9.93 9.33


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Lakey Peterson. PHOTO: NIKE 6.0


Written by: Justin Cote JCote@TWS.com

CHECK/ OUT

Nike 6.0 Women’s Surf Movie: Leave a Message It’s all about changing the sport

PHOTO: NIKE 6.0

The all-women’s surf movie features Carissa Moore, Lakey Peterson, Laura Enever, Coco Ho, Monyca Byrne-Wickey, and Malia Manuel, delivering groundbreaking aerials and long barrels with a message that transcends well beyond the lineup: this generation of surfers has changed their sport. Nike 6.0 is proud to present its latest film project: Leave A Message. This allwomen’s surf movie combines some of the hottest female surfing outside of the competition circuit and creates a truly progressive vision of what surfing can be. The collection of talent and beauty features Carissa Moore (HI), Lakey Peterson (CA), Laura Enever (AUS), Coco Ho (HI), Monyca Byrne-Wickey (HI), and Malia Manuel (HI), delivering groundbreaking aerials and long barrels with a message that transcends well beyond the lineup: this generation of surfers has changed their sport. This generation of girls command much more than simple recognition. These six unique surfers are changing the sport. They turn heads and make jaws drop. They love life, and its shows. Together they embody all that women’s

SPOT/ LIGHT on one of the stars from Leave a Message BIO FROM WWW.LAKEYPETERSON,COM

surfing has become. Leave a Message is a true testament to just how much this generation of surfers have changed their sport. This is a performance surf film, with an emphasis on performance. But beyond the groundbreaking aerials and long barrels is a message that transcends well beyond the lineup: enjoy what you do and do it to the fullest. Unintentionally, these girls have written a new script for women’s surfing. Deliberately, they’ve left their message. “I’m surrounded by surfing all day, every day and I see a lot of great riders. But what these girls are doing has to be seen to be believed,” says Leave A Message director and Nike 6.0’s surf team photographer Jason Kenworthy. Shot over two years at the world’s hottest surf locations including Australia, California, Hawaii and Mexico, the girls show grace and strength in the water elevating women’s surfing to fantastic new heights

“GO BIG, YOU NEVER KNOW YOU COULD REVOLUTIONIZE THE SPORT.”

LAKEY PETERSON AGE: 18 HOMETOWN: SANTA BARABRA, CA SPONSORS: NIKE WETSUITS, CLOTHING,

& FOOTWEAR, SMITH SUNGLASSES & CHANNEL ISLANDS SURFBOARDS

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PHOTO: DION AGIUS

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PHOTO: HALEY WELSH


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Written by: Casey Butler CButler@ESPN.com

ASP/ PREVIEW

Gilmore Wins Roxy Gold Coast Pro Steph slayed her way to her first win of 2012

PHOTO: JEROEN

Four-time world champion Steph Gilmore won her first major comp in nearly a year, the Roxy Gold Coast Pro. She didn’t even seem nervous before her final heat against Aussie firecracker Laura Enever. Not because Enever wasn’t a threat. On the contrary, Gilmore was anxious about her opponent’s ability to wring last-minute waves for all of their worth. “In her last heat against Tyler, [Laura] showed everyone that she’s willing to take off on anything and turn it into a big score in the last seconds, so I was really nervous,” Gilmore said. 2012 Quiksilver and Roxy Gold Coast Pro. Gallery But she appeared calm and collected. A testament to her years of competitive experience, her poise under pressure served her well as she and Enever went blow for blow in the exciting second half of a final that got off to a slow start. In the first semifinal, 20-year-old Enever was trailing Tyler Wright, who had racked up some big scores with a flurry of layback cutties, floaters, and fin busts. Enever needed a 7.10 to take the lead, and after a confusing nearinterference, Wright relinquished her priority, clearing Enever’s path to the beautiful, eleventh-hour wave that would bump her into her first-ever World Tour final. When asked to explain what happened immediately after the heat, Enever breathlessly said, “I don’t even know.” “I feel like that only happens in dreams, right there,” she continued. “I’m almost overwhelmed, but I guess I have to straighten up for the final. I’m stoked. This is my first final ever -- all I’ve wanted to do is make a final. This

PHOTOS: HEYWOOD

event has had ups and downs for me, and I’m just stoked I can keep going.” As Enever regained her bearings, world number two, Sally Fitzgibbons opened the second semifinal with an 8.0, but Gilmore rebutted with a pair of mid-range eights. Fitzgibbons found herself comboed when Gilmore treated the judges to a bounty of powerful and elegant snaps for a 9.73. Fitzgibbons responded with her own 1,000-foot-long ride and a boost attempt to boot, but the resulting 7.0 wasn’t sufficient to take down Cooly’s hometown favorite. In 2- to 4-foot, semi-clean Snapper that Gilmore described as “fun,” the final was yet another heat that came down to the wire. Enever ultimately weighed in with a 14.20, just shy of Gilmore’s 16.37. Not bad at all for her first final against Gilmore.

This win at the 2012 Roxy Pro Gold Coast will serve Gilmore well in her race for a fifth world title, earning her an initial 10,000 points and $15,000. As she says, she’s “back in the black.” Or, at least she’s making as much of a “comeback” as anyone who’s maintained a top-three presence really can. At the ASP banquet, Gilmore told Carissa Moore that she was lending her the trophy. “I’m glad I backed it up with some kind of result,” she said, laughing. “To come back this year and just feel 10 times better than last year, it’s just amazing,” she said.


PHOTO: HALEY WELSH

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Written by: Sara Lear SLear1@FLUID.com

TRAVEL/ RIGHT

Welp, It Looks Like I Can’t Go Home Who cares? It’s a rental. We have insurance.

Our crew headed to the falls after a dangerous car ride, somewhere in Puerto Rico. PHOTO: UNKOWN

This story began in St. Augustine, Florida. Spring “Blink” was coming up and there was nothing more I wanted to do than surf actual waves. I didn’t (and still don’t) have any money, so Costa Rica, Mexico, and Nicaragua were definitely out of the picture. I needed somewhere to go with a decently priced ticket- Puerto Rico. My mind was set on spending a week on an island surfing and getting my skin back to extremly tan. I got a stone cold pack of weirdos together: Allie Preston, the skilled beach ‘layer-outer’, Stephen Kaltenbach, the crazy ass who will throw airs all day, and Luke Newcomer, the responsible one and the reason why my abs hurt so bad from laughing so hard.

driver, whom was to only be referred to as “Tanto” and his car was named Sean. For the next couple of days, we spent our time having “Tanto” drive Sean up and down the coast from Rincon to Isabela looking for waves and drinking as much Medela as we could get our hands on. Our daily schedule went something like this: Stephen wakes up and surprises us with coffee, we get our bathing suits on and grab a quick breakfast, surf until one and then eat some lunch and drink some dranks, go to another spot and surf, drive home and get ready to go to Casa Verde (the best bar in Rincon), get a few hours of sleep and do it all again.

Thanks to the Lawson’s, we were lucky enough to stay in one of the nicest houses with the most amazing hosts in Rincon. Mikey Lawson was also apart of our pack once we got there.

We didn’t seem to have any problems until a couple days before we were scheduled to leave. We drove North to a place called Secret Spot where Stephen, Allie, and I decided to jump off the skechiest rock/ reef/ ledge ever (picture 4), into the water. Things didn’t go to plan and I ended up jamming all of my toes along with slicing opening all of my body parts. After that, we decided to go get some lunch at this bakery in Isabela. BEST PANINI EVER! It had been a pretty long day and we made the choice to go home and take some naps before we went out.

It was only the first day and as I looked around, I had six salty, sunburnt guys passed out in the sand to my right. To my left was Allie, the only other girl on the trip. I couldn’t tell if she was sleeping or not, but I could tell she needed some more sunscreen. In front of me was a perfect right point break [Indicators] that the boys and I had just spent the last four hours surfing and sharing every wave. I felt as if we were the only souls on this island that no one knew about. It hadn’t even been a full day yet and I had already been reminded why I love this place so much. The crystal clear waters that carry a swell all of the time, the sun that kisses your skin every hour it’s up, and the most beautiful sunsets that you can’t get enough pictures of as it’s going down. We were only there for a week, and I needed to take in as much of Puerto Rico that I couldn’t handle. Luke had put the rental car under his name, so he was the only one who could drive it. Once we found out that news, Luke quickly became known as our

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Turns out I left my ID in the bakery which was a couple hours away from where we were. I was a little concerned about if I was going to be let on the plane,

PHOTO: STEPHEN KALTENBACH


1/

2/

1/ Steven Kaltenbach at Inidactors . PHOTO: MICHAEL LAWSON 2/ The best meal you can eat that was made out of a trailer, chicken and yucca. PHOTO: SARA LEAR 3/ At Middles, Kersey snapped his leash and some urchens in the foot. PHOTO: ALLIE PRESTON 4/ Paddling out at Secret Spot. PHOTO: SARA LEAR

5/

4/

but my biggest concern at the time was what I was going to make myself to drink.

TOTAL/ COST

of a trip to Puerto Rico with a group of four.

PRICES ARE BASED ON INDIVIDUAL EXPENSES

The swell we had that week had come to an end, and on our very last day we sat in and/or around the pool in these stupid chairs that barley held our bodies above water and drank until we turned red. Literally.

$260.00

After a long day of drinking, we took a few hours to rest up before our 3:00 AM plane ride, that I could or could not be boarding; that I just had to wait and find out when we got to the airport. Oh, and the airport didn’t open unitl 1 am, so we had to wait around for three hours looking at all of our photos on each other’s phones and uploading all of them to Instagram.

PLANE TICKET

Flying from Orlando, FL to Aguadilla, PR. Not including bag fees

$110.00

CAR RENTAL

The airport eventually opened, and Stephen decided the best idea to kill time would be to get drunk. So, he did. We printed all of our boarding passes and started to head towards security after the boards were checked in. I felt as if my heart was going to fall out of my butt I was so nervous. In my hand I held a printed copy of my now lost ID, my insurance card, a picture on my phone of my Flagler College student ID, and the boarding pass from the flight here I had found at the bottom of my backpack.

Renting a Nissan through Hertz.

$135.00

HOUSE RENTAL

Staying at the Lawson’s baller pad on Bummer Hill.

I guess it had been pretty lucky at that moment, because I don’t think not letting me through security even came across the security ladys’ brain. I was granted access to go home. As we waited for our plane to arrive, I couldn’t seem get over how great of a trip this one had turned out to be. I had a few of my best friends ≠with me to spend my days and nights surfing, eating, and drinking with. What’s more to ask for?

$130.00

FOOD & ALCOHOL

Spending money on breakfast and lunch and drinking dinner.

= $635.00 20


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so ls t ice

s u m m er

By: Sara Lear

PHOTO: SARA LEAR

The Sun reaches its highest position in the sky on the day of the summer solstice. On this day, June 20, 2012, the sun will be at it’s greatest distance from the equator giving us a longer day than any day of the year so far. We have more light to brighten our day to surf longer and let the salt dry on our sun kissed skin. With a longer day, we need a few more choices on what to wear, from day-time bathing suits and cover ups to getting ready for a night on the town. Designed for young women with a coastal mindset and an independent spirit, Billabong’s line of modern coastal classics has an understated aesthetic with a focus on amazingly soft fabrics and beautifully thought out details. Billabong is a tightly knit offering of “modern coastal classics with a twist” - items that belong to Billabong’s coastal heritage, but are always fresh and modern. Summer is the time of year we spend our days and nights outdoors and with the people we love to laugh with. That’s why Billabong has created a Summer Solstice Collection for you. Billabong was inspired by the sun, moon, and the stars. The sun shares it’s light with us to open our eyes and feel the power of it’s warmth. The moon works with our ocean, creating the waves we love to surf. There are billions of stars in sky and each one is an individual, if the stars align just right, you could find that perfect outfit for that perfect day.


Billabong Fields Juniors Crop Tank Billabong G’Day Mate Short

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Billabong Madrina Tank Billabong Western Rider Skirt


PHOTO: DAVE MASEILLO



IF He av e n iso n EA R TH

IT 27


Billabong What a Stud Tie Dye Tank Top Billabong Haute Sweater

PHOTO: GNARGASM

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Billabong Nowhere Fast Cool Wip Billabong Short Fuse Denim Light Vintage Wash Billabong Freedom TK Red Hot Billabong Keep On Canvas PHOTO: FREE PEOPLE


PHOTO: SPELL & THE GYPSY COLLECTIVE


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PHOTO: HALEY WELSH

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I haven’t seen her in five months, and the reason I’m making this 45 minute drive to Atlantic Beach is because one my my best friends, Romy Sidelsky, has just been under the knife. She came from North Carolina for an intense e: Ag 20 hip surgery and I felt like this would be a great time to give the girl some TLC. When I walked into her house, everything was normal. I was greeted Hometown: Atlantic Beach, Florida with a big hug from Mr. and Mrs. Sidelsky and there was a soccer game on the television. I have no idea who was playing, because I was far more focused on trying to figure out was way to hug my friend lying there helpless on the couch surrounded my stuffed animals.

Name: Romy Sidelsky

Now, I knew from the begining she was going to be okay. This surgery wasn’t going to keep her out of the water. Maybe for a couple weeks, but not that forever. Romy’s the type of girl you’ll see on a daily basis looking like she just walked up from the beach, but knows how to turn every guys’ head when she decides to throw on some heels. She’ll make you laugh so hard you’ll pee your pants and will make fun of you when you do. Before no time, you’ll be paddling out into the water and see her killing it on a nice right.

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Romy Sidelsky, Nicaragua. PHOTO: DAVE MESIALLO

BY: SARA LEAR

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When did you start surfing? Umm, I guess around 12? There’s probably a big line in the ages that I started “surfing” (makes quotations with fingers) and started surfing. Technically I guess I was 12. All my guy friends were surfing by then and I was getting pissed that they were doing stuff I wasn’t. So I got my first real shortboard from Asher Nolan and was hooked. Any sponsors?

So, how do you feel about your best friend interviewing you? Well it’s not like I do too many interviews, but it’s sick! The only difference with you being my best friend is that I guess I can’t really lie about anything or you’ll know. (Laughs) You live in North Carolina now, right? Yeah, Wilmington. How is it living up there compared to down in Florida where it’s Summer year round. I like it. Yeah sure, I defeinitly start to take back that statement when I see snow on the beach in January, but it’s seasonal up here. Living in FL my whole life I never really experienced the leaves changing colors, or snow falling, so its cool in that sense. We have beautiful summers, colorfull falls, snowy winters, and flowers in spring. But when you send me photos from St. Augustine in December wearing a tank top, that’s when I start to miss it. What exactly are you doing up there?

Whataya got in your quiver? 5’1 (Epoxy, Flex Foil) My small-wave board, but really works great with anything under head high. Shaped like the Al Merrick “Dumpster Diver”. 5’4 (Epoxy, Balsa Railing) My go-to performance board. (personal favorite because it has so much maneuverability in the tail. This is what I surf in contests) 5’6 (Epoxy, Flex Balsa Railing) 5’7 (Epoxy, Balsa Railing) I rode this board all through Bali, super durable on heavy reef breaks 5’8 (Fiberglass)

Good question because I’m still trying to figure that one out myself. I graduate in December 2012 from UNCW with a degree in Marine Biology and Cetology (study of cetaceans, i.e. whales and dolphins). I truly have developed a great life up here. Pretty much doing the school thing and surfing as much as I can. I mean I love it up here, it’s my home know ya know?

That’s quite the collection. Speaking of Bali, I know you’ve done your fair share of traveling. Where all have you been?

I beg to differ. Florida is your home. Since you’re up at UNCW for lacrosse, how often do you get to surf?

Where has been my favorite place?

Well lacrosse isn’t the real reason I came up here. There were so many factors affecting that decision, but one day it just kinda clicked and I felt that Wilmington was the right place for me. Oh yeah, I still surf a ton…well obviously not right now. (points to crutches). But yeah I live 2 miles from the beach and surf for the UNCW surf team. When waves are cooperating, im surfing probably once or twice a week this time of year. During hurricane season though it’s a lot more. We are constantly taking the straight road up to Hatteras every other weekend and go to Masonboro (the little island ½ mile from Wrightsville Beach) every day during that time.

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MOM AND DAD. Haha no but really, they’ve been so supportive through my competing and traveling. But yeah, there’s a few. My board sponsor, Vision by Buddha, has been such a blessing in my surfing career. He takes care of me like no other, and the innovative shapes and materials he keeps contributing to the industry amazing me. My bathing suit sponsor, NVR Strings, is an awesome suit company based out of California. I love their stuff. I’m also surf for FEW. FEW is a New Zealand clothing and wetsuit company. I met the rep up here in North Carolina at a contest, and it’s been a great relationship since then.

Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Mexico, South Africa, Hawaii, France, Spain, and Bali. That wore me out just listening. You can probably guess what I’m going to ask next...

Wow! It’s almost like we can “Finish each others’ sentences!!” “Finish each others’ sentences!!!!!!” But, seriously, where has been your favorite place and why? Geez, that’s tough to answer. I mean each trip has been so different. Different conditions, different people, different time frames. Probably Bali though. I went December 2010 for about a month. It was unreal, like I was in some sort of fantasy land. It sounds stupid I know, but I considered that place home by the time I left. I was so consumed in the culture and the country. For most of the trip I was by myself, and everyone embraced me there. It was beautiful how much they respected the land and the Earth in Bali, and I stay in contact with a lot of people I met. Not to mention the surf was ridiculous. If I took my best wave from Costa Rica and introduced it to my best wave from Nicaragua, and then they made a baby… that baby would be my worst wave in Bali. Haha!!


PHOTO: DAVE MASEILLO


PHOTO: DAVE MASEILLO


Do you need help? Noo, I think I have it. I just have to go pee. It looks like you’re having a bit of difficulty... Yeah, it hurts, but I’ll be okay. When you return wanna tell me why your on crutches? Sure haha I’ll be right back. I didn’t hear any screams, so I’m assuming everything went well? Hahaha, yeah. Success. Well, I tore my labrum during a lacrosse game. From what I understand…the labrum is basically the muscle/ligament between your hip ball and socket joint, or the muscle that separates them. When it tore, it exposed part of the bone to bone, and the pain was excruiting. Since the pain came and went, I decided to live with it as long as I could, but in Nicaragua this past December it was so bad and affected my surfing so much that I gave in and went in for surgery.I had a great surgeon in Jacksonville and now its only going to get better from here. I’m just ready to get back to normal. Bed ridden, huh? Yeah, don’t remind me. You’re going to be on crutches for a while. How long? Doc says 2-3 more weeks. I’ve already been on them for almost 3 weeks, with no driving. For the first couple weeks I had to sleep in these leg restraints so I didn’t move my hip at night. My dad called it my “chastity belt”. (laughs) Hahaha. What will be the first thing you do when you’re all better? Surf, swim, sink, I don’t care as long as it’s in the water. I’ve been dying to get in the water, I already have a countdown going.

Got a boyfrand? Yeah, Hunter. He’s been awesome throughout this surgery stuff. He even lies to me when he goes to surf so I don’t feel bad. (laughs) But yeah, he’s great, definnitly couldn’t have gotten through all this without him. Does he surf? Yeah he’s a great surfer actually. He grew up surfing Emerald Isle and Atlantic Beach, two little beach towns up here in NC. He’s a natural. We took our first surf trip together this past December. My dad very generously gave us tickets to Nicaragua for Christmas presents, and we went down there for about two weeks. A vacay for two, eh? (smirks) How was that? A lot of fun. I have friends that run a business down there and we stayed with them. We were in a small Northwest town called “Transito”. There was a local, Chilo, who cooked 3 meals for us a day. Is it bad I miss the food the most? Haha. Surf was great while we were there, we caught a few decent days for sure, but the wind was howling by 11am. Got to surf Christmas morning in Santa Hats which was awesome. Does he get jealous of all the guys out in the water around you when youre in tiny bathing suits? (laughs hard and embarrassingly) That’s hilarious. Umm. I don’t think so? I’ll have to ask him about that. If he does, he’s never told me. What do you think you’re going to do once you graduate? Man its crazy that it’s only a semester away. I’ll probably stay in Wilmington for a bit to work, but I’ll definitely be traveling. Since I graduate in December I’ll probably travel for a few spring months, and then come back. I need to make some money and start applying to graduate schools. Marine Biology is a really competitive career so I’m trying to start as early as possible. Anything else you want to say? GO JAGS!!!!!!

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10

QUEST/ YOU IONSWOULD

NEVERASK A

FEMALE

SURF/ ER

Coco Ho, Mexico. PHOTO: JUSTIN BRAWLEY

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THE PANEL ANAST/ ASIA ASHLEY Loves Pipeline, travels the world, looks great on TV, takes shit from no one.

CLAIRE BEVIL/ ACQUA Charges Backdoor Pipe, has rock hard abs, loves life, wonderful writer, does mean power hack.

COCO HO Comes from surfing royaly, charges big Sunset, throws the tail daily, always smiling, fierce competitor.

ALANA BLAN/ CHARD Kauai-bred new school shredder, commonly refferred to as the world’s hottest surfer.

KEALA KEN/ NELLY Big wave charger, DJ, outspoken proponent of ripping chicks, pioneer in big barrels

LAURA EN/ EVER Top rated WCT pro, swimsuit model, amazing dancer, likes to dress sexy, charges big barrels.

LAKEY PETER/ SON Shredding her way up the pro ranks, does the best airs of any chick, will win a world title.

LISA AND/ ERSON Godmother of modern surfing, four-time World Champion. first surfing supermodel, rips as hard as ever.

MAYA GABE/ IRA Owns multiple boards over nine feet, looks hot in miniskirts, surfs Dungeons even while on her period.

The 10 Questions every guy wants to ask a female surfer, but has been too scared to do so. Sometimes the hardest questions to ask are also the dumbest. But admit it, with all the gaucking and staring that guys give girls out in the water, there’s bound to be some questions behind those blank stares. Surfers as a group are a curious bunch. We’re always looking for new waves, asking our shapers about board design, probing pro surfers about what they do behind closed doors, and pondering the true meaning of what it is to be a “real” surfer. Women, in life and in surfing are a mystery to most men, and unless they have an older sister, they are just as ignorant as the rest of the men wondering what it’s like to worry about your period. So, for the purpose of better understanding the fairer sex, we’re going to get the 10 most wondered questions from guys and have an electric and diverse group of the world’s top female pro surfers answer them. Let the learning begin. BY: CHRIS COTE / SARA LEAR

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ONE // What’s the worst or funniest swimsuit malfunction you’ve ever had?

ALANA: I was surfing at home once not wearing a leash, I jumped off my board, body surfed a wave, and as I was doing it I felt my suit fall down, and all of a sudden it was gone. I couldn’t find it, so I just stayed in the water for like 15 minutes. Finally my friend found it on the beach, so I didn’t have to go in with no bottoms.

CLAIRE: One time at Pipeline, I wiped out lost my top, broke my board, and my bottoms ripped off. Luckily, they were still attached at the end of my leash- all my equipment malfunctioned on that one.

COCO:

I have to say doing bottom turns at Snapper killed me this year- the wave is so close to the beach. You don’t know until you see the pictures. After the first day, when I saw some of the photos of the contest and saw how close up they really were to my butt, I thought, “I’m going to wear bigger bottoms tomorrow.”

KEALA: I lost my bottoms surfing once on Kauai. I got launched, landed on my board, broke my board, lost my bikini bottoms and my trunks- totally gone. I had to come in to the beach holding my broken board over my front and my back to cover my junk.

LAKEY: I bet Laura will have a good answer for that one [laughs]. Whenever girls in bikinis duckdive, the bottoms come down; it always happens.

LISA: Shoot macaroni’s in Indo, I was going backside and coming fown from a floater, and my whole top was kind of up, and my body parts were outside of the bikini. A photographer shot it, but said he erased it, who knows if he did. Or when Transworld SURF ran a close-up of me surfing in a see-through white top.

TWO // Do you think the top women could win a men’s WQS four star?

ALANA: Carissa probably could, she used to win grom contests against boys.

COCO: Heck yeah- for sure. KEALA: That’s hard to say. The chicks are ripping, but the young guys are ripping extra hard too, and they’d have the extra pressure of not getting beat by a girl.

LAURA: Have you seen Carissa and the top girls surfing lately? I swear some boys would be scared to surf against them.

LISA: No, they’re not good enough. Girls are good and can beat some guys in heats, but winning an event, not yet.

THREE // Do the top girls on the World Tour get paid more than the bottom guys on the World Tour?

“ONE TIME AT PIPELINE,

I WI LOST MY TOP, BROKE MY

COCO: Yes. Sorry, boys. LISA: Yeah, for sure. I’m not trying to be a brat, but it’s long overdue that the girls got paid. Huys and girls arebenefiting from more money in surfing, the comparing thing is getting old.

LAURA: So I’ve heard... ALANA: I think so- it’s probably deserved, right? Laura Enever. PHOTO: JUSTIN JAY Lakey Peterson. PHOTO: JUSTIN BRAWLEY

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IPED OUT,

&

BOARD,

MY BOTTOMS RIPPED OFF.” -CLAIRE BEVILACQUA 42


FOUR // All of the girls on top seem like one big happy family, but are there a lot of cliques and cattiness behind the scenes?

LAKEY: We’re girls, so that happens. I’m pretty oblivious to all that stuff. I don’t really know any of the good gossip.

KEALA: When you’re all on tour together, traveling, sharing hotels, and everybody’s periods start linking up and you’re all PMSingtogether while competing, yeah, there’s going to be some drama. When you introduce that many variables, you’re gonna get some cattiness.

ANASTASIA: Of course, some girls are catty, and not just surfer girls. All girls PMS, et cetera. On tour, there are some feisty ones, and when you’re a girl, you’re surrounded by more haters and cattiness- that’s just a fact.

MAYA: In the big-wave girls’ scene, I’d say there’s some competition involved, but there are so few of us that we don’t run into each other that often. We’re not really a tight unit. I only surf with other girls once of twice a year, so we don’t really have time to get catty with eachother. I don’t get mad when I see other girls on big waves, I get fired up.

LISA: When I was on tour it was way more grouchy and competitive. It seems to be nicer now, and the girls seem to be letting their surfing do the talking.

CLAIRE: The tour at the moment reminds me of high school, the girls are mostly nice, but there are a few that love to backstab.

LAURA: Coco Ho poked me on Facebook once! Everyone on tour is really cool; we all get along, as far as I know. I’m sur some people think I should stop talking so much, though.

FIVE // What is the stupidest and/or funniest thing a guy has said to you in the water?

ANASTASIA: “Go in, bitch.” CLAIRE: “If you were a guy, I’d punch you in the face.” LISA: Some really heavy things I couldn’t repeat. “Go home, bitch,” the c-word, and all kinds of bad things. TGhere are grumpy people out there that don’t like to see girls get waves. I’ve been surfing for a long time, and that kind of stuff doesn’t happen that often.

COCO: A guy called me the c-word at Winkipop the other day. I did call him a kook first, but it was because he was being a kook. He deserved it.

KEALA: Guys always tell me these elaborate stories about me dropping in on them, and I never drop in on anyone- it’s so weird.

MAYA: Some guy paddled up to me out of the blue and asked if I was the big-wave surfer girl. I said, “Sometimes,” then je just says to me, “My grandma could tow in to the waves you ride. You don’t even know how to paddle in to waves.” I was so baffled, the guy just ruined my morning for no reason.

LAURA: You don’t want to know- we get all sorts of comments: good, bad, and creepy. I know Alana gets people proposing to her all the time, that’s pretty damn creepy!

ALANA: I have guys say that I dropped in on their friend, and their friend was super stoked to surf behind me- guys say that kind of stuff happens all the time, so weird.

“I DON’T THINK THEY’D WANT ME,

MOST GUYS THINK I LOOK LIKE WHERE BONESGO TO

D


SIX // How do viral videos of surrf girls dancing in their underwear affect the sport?

LAKEY: It helps the sport. So many people click on videos like that. At the same time, we all have to try to set good examples. It’s so much publicity ‘cause guys want to watch that stuff. There’s a fine line between having fun and going too far.

ALANA: I think it shows that we’re having fun together and living it up. It’s a good thing; it shows how much fun we’re having hanging out together just being girlie. And we did get a lot of exposure from it, so that’s a good thing.

LAURA: Well, our video of surfer girls dancing in clothes did get over 100,000 views on YouTube. So you would think one of us dancing in underwear would have to get double that at least!

COCO: Well, the ones my friends and I made wasn’t in our underwear [laughs]. We got a lot of publicity off that video we made. It’s nothing new, we do that kind of stuff all the time- we have like 10 of those videos. That kind of stuff just shows our personalitieswe’re girls, we like to have fun and besides, it’s great publicity.

LISA: Anything you can get out in the media is good. These days, all that social media is so popular; it’s a great way to market yourself. More power to them, sounds like they’re having fun.

MAYA: I love it. The girls are young, pretty, feminine, and they’re having fun. They have Benyonce, Rihanna, and all those superstars that they all look up to. I think it’s great bevause those girls are superstars in surfing. CLAIRE: I think it’s fun. All girls do it; most girls relate to that kind of thing.

SEVEN // Is there really worry about surfing sharky areas while on your period?

KEALA: It’s always in the back of your mind, but they make great tampons these days with curls and wings and all that. I think they even make extra absorbent shark flaps now. Coco Ho. PHOTO: DANE REYNOLDS

COCO: I don’ think it’s the same as if you got cut, at least that’s what I tell myself. If I don’t want to surf, I’ll use it as an excuse, and it always works.

ANASTASIA: Oh, I believe you’re more likely to be bit by a shark if you’re bleeding. I definitely surf when I have my period, but it it’s heavy or whatever, I try to avoid it. I usually feel kind of sick during the first few days of that time of the month. It sucks when a contest falls in that time of the month. The girls I’ve talked to think it’s true. Don’t surf sharky places when you’re on your period.

LAURA: I Googled it and apparently sharks don’t like that kind of blood.

ALANA: Definitely. Some girls won’t surf at all when it’s their time of the month- it just depends on the girl.

LAKEY: People worry about it, bt most of us try not to think about it. If it’s a really sharky place, I Think it’s just kind of dumb. The sharks are gonna go for us over anyone else.

MAYA: I’ve had a situation at Dungeons, which is one of the sharkiest places in the world. It was my time of the month, but it was 20 feet, so I was surfing. The boys wanted to kill me, I told the crew before we paddled out, “Boys, I’m on my period. Sorry.” Greg Long was like “What? Oh no!” I said, “I had to tell you guys, just tell me if you see a shark.” So yeah, it’s kind of sketchy sometimes.

Alana Blanchard. PHOTO: JUSTIN JAY

DIE.” -KEALA

44


Lakey Peterson. PHOTO: GNARGASM

45


EIGHT // What is the most common dumb question the media asks you?

LAKEY: We’re girls, so that happens. I’m pretty oblivious to all that stuff. I don’t really know any of the good gossip.

KEALA: “Are you like, gay?” ANASTASIA: “Do you ever surf naked?” MAYA: “Are you ever scared?” Yeah, of course I’m scared, that’s a stupid question. LISA: Questions about who I’ve slept with on rout are pretty dumb; it’s a little too personal.

NINE // Who will be the next pro surfer to pose for Playboy? And would you do it?

KEALA: Anastastia maybe? I don’t think they’d want me, most guys think I look like where bones go to die.

COCO: Laura [laughs]. LISA: The first person that comes to my mind would be Alana. ANASTASIA: Let’s just say that Heff is a fan of mine... we’ll leave it at that.

LAURA: What I want to know is when will a guy surfer so a sexy photo shoot? I don’t know, but if any girl surf poses for Playboy, she better get a big lot of money to do it!

ALANA: Probably me of Laura. There’s been pro surfers in Playboy before. I don’t know about all the way naked though, too personal.

TEN // Is it hard to surf with boobs?

KEALA: It is a little bit, but I grew up surfing, so my boobs actually grew with a surfboard between them. I have some serious Scandanavian armpit divers for tits. They’re heading east and west- they’re still growing sideways.

LISA: It doesn’t affect my surfing. I don’t think about it, it’s just part of the package. COCO: You’d have to ask Lisa or Sage Erickson that question, ‘cause I wouldn’t know. I’ve never had an issue with that.

LAKEY: No.

For more awkward questions and to hear the audio interviews go to transworldsurf.com, or scan the QR-Code to the left.

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PHOTO: HALEY WELSH


48



Bryn Hall

Bryn “Bird” Hall. PHOTO: UNKNOWN

Naturally Stumbled ‘Surf-Art’ Catagory By // Allie Preston

Bryn Hall has one major passion in life, art. Making it, being inspired and inspiring others. She uses all kinds of media, but her favourite media is biro, black biro in particular. Bryn also enjoys working in watercolour, mixing it with pen and ink illustrations. Bryn is heavily influenced by the Cornish culture, coastlines, sea, and surfing...who could blame her, anyone who has been to Cornwall will know it is an aritsts dream location, inspirational and historically charming. Because Bryn’s influences are so strong, she is often put in the catagory of ‘Surf Art’, which she is only too proud to represent while she matures and expands into other genres. You can also find Bryn on Club Of The Waves and she has her own blog. Bryn was born in Cornwall England in 1988 and has lived there her whole life. Her love of surfing recently drew her to Australia where she traveled along the East coast with friends, just surfing and not much else. Bryn has worked as a Surf Instructor and a qualified beach lifeguard for pretty much all her teenage years, not the worst job in the world. Bryn’s love of the ocean and the Cornish coastline and culture have only fueled and inspired her art and photography. In the future Bryn would love to make enough money to get by... graphic designer/illustartor, working from home, so she can still bunk off and surf.


to evoke

or express

TRY

WATER.


TOP LEFT Blossum // oil and collage on canvas // 2’ x 4’ TOP RIGHT Resolution // oil and collage on canvas // 2’ x 4’ BOTTOM LEFT Live // acrylic on canvas // 3’ x 2’ NEXT PAGE Owl Byrd // graphite // 8.5” x 11”

Scan for an offical video interview with Bryn Hall.

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53


PHOTO: HALEY WELSH

54


PHOTO: HALEY WELSH


PHOTO: SPELL & THE GYPSY COLLECTIVE


FOR THE FREE SPIRIT FEMALE SURFER


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