Key to STHLM #1 2019 by Savor Media

KEY TO STHLM

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

KEY TO STHLM

Our creations are inspired by patterns and shapes found from all over the world. We design and manufacture locally, exclusively from the highest quality metals and precious stones to deliver a classic, yet contemporary collection with an edge. Inspired by the Louvre Pyramid in Paris, our Rare Edge Collection carries the now iconic, reversed princess-cut diamond, forming an extraordinary diamond stud. Introducing the Pax series, namned after the goddess of peace. Be strong, be gracious and be proud! PAX

WWW.RAREJEWELRY.SE

Favourites from Sweden’s largest department store. Åhléns is the biggest Swedish department store. We have a wide range of fashion, beauty and home furnishing products. Obtain a Tax Free discount of up to 19% on merchandise from the entire department store at the cashier of your choice.

Åhléns är Sveriges största varuhus med ett stort urval av varumärken inom mode, skönhet och inredning. Handla med upp till 19% i Tax Free-rabatt från hela varuhuset i en och samma kassa!

Acne, Armani Beauty, Design House Stockholm, Ole Lynggaard, Byredo, Maison Dior, YSL, Gant, Hermés, Iittala, Lancome, DKNY, J. Lindeberg, Lego, Efva Attling, Kiehl´s, Muji, Ray Ban, Hay, Georg Jensen, Toteme, Laura Mercier, Ganni, The Ordinary, Marimekko, Rörstrand, Samsøe Samsøe, ETON, Skultuna, Nike, Valentino, Kosta Boda, Tiger Of Sweden, Tom Ford, Dior, Filippa K and more.

Åhléns City Stockholm, Klarabergsgatan 50.

Tax Free refund at

on 2nd floor.

PUBLISHER STEFAN OSSMYR CONCEPT SAVOR MEDIA AB ART DIRECTOR / GRAPHIC DESIGNER CARINA BERG PROJECT MANAGER GABRIEL KOTOWSKI EDITORIAL SUSANNE RAAF SANCHIA LAMBERT KENNETH LAGSTRÖM LOTTA ZACHRISSON STEFAN OSSMYR GABRIEL KOTOWSKI JOACHIM HILLBERG VICTORIA DAHL CONCIERGES SEAN NAUGHTON ADAM VON MENTZER JOHAN HOLMGREN TRANSLATION TRANSVOICE HEAD OF SALES BIRGITTA OSSMYR ISBN: 978-91-983152-5-7 SAVOR MEDIA AB Nybrokajen 3 111 48 Stockholm, Sweden info@savormedia.se savormedia.se +46 (0)8 717 95 40

KEY TO STHLM

PRINT REFLEKT GROUP

About Key to STHLM: Opinions expressed by individual writers do not necessarily reflect the views of the editorial staff. The editorial staff assumes no responsibility or liability for omissions or other inaccuracies in submitted or unsolicited material, or for typographical or other errors outside the editor’s specific area of responsibility.

COVER IMAGE Photo: Anna Danielsson/ Nationalmuseum

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SHOPPING Shopping Style Vintage

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FASHION Style for Him Style for Her

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DESIGN Jewellery Designer Efva Attling Talks from the Heart Style Design

32 36 40 44 46 56 61

CULTURE The NEW National Museum STHLM´s Underground Art Exhibition ABBA is Calling for You Liljevalchs and the Vårsalongen Photographer Jeppe Wikström Culture Calendar The Museum Scene

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TASTE New Trend "A Herring and a Nip..." Causerie. Restaurant Kvarnen - Södermalm´s Natural Hub The Art of Making Swedish Dumplings

NIGHTLIFE Why You Shouldn´t Miss Out on the STHLM Nightlife

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LIFESTYLE A Travel Agent´s Guide to STHLM Insta Spots Classic Sights Hammarbybacken Style Outdoor Nearby - A Guide to Tranquility Travel with Kids

Special Features: 8 Sweden’s Golden Concierges. 11 Concierge´s Letter – Sean Naughton. 13 From your Concierge – Adam von Mentzer. 19 From your Concierge – Johan Holmgren.

KEY TO STHLM

ontents

ORES-STORE.COM

CONTRIBUTORS

SUSANNE RAAF Susanne Raaf is a talented writer who loves playing with words and creates interesting reading that touches something within. Swedish born with a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Publishing she often embarks on adventures around the world. Her curiosity and spirit for exploration is often reflected in her texts.

SANCHIA LAMBERT Known also as “Sunshine” a passionate South African-Swede with years of global experience in luxury travel, PR, tourism and hospitality. She is the founder of travel & lifestyle company; Travel Exclusive, loves culture, fashion, a good laugh and believes that when you find a good thing, share it with others.

KENNETH LAGSTRÖM Kenneth has a long experience in the restaurant industry. He has been a top executive at several international chains such as Burger King, Pizza Hut, McDonald´s and other Swedish chains. He has worked both domestically here in Sweden and internationally. These days he is an independent consultant to several leading STHLM restaurateurs at the top executive level.

JOACHIM HILLBERG Joachim has a broad experience in the graphic production industry. During 2013 he worked as Art Director for Savor Media. Since 2016 he runs his own production agency Dalagrafiska in Tällberg–Dalarna. In 2010 he wrote, with poetic touch, and shot pictures to the book Väggar som Viskar, which he also distributed on his own label.

STEFAN SVENSSON Stefan Svensson is a photographer with a studio on Kungsholmen in STHLM. Stefan was educated in the USA and has a BFA in photography from the School of Visual Arts in New York. He works mainly with portraits, architectural and interior photography, and gives training in photography. Stefan lives in Enskede with his wife and daughter.

STEFAN OSSMYR Stefan is currently CEO of the Auxano group and also managing director of Savor Media and publisher of "Key to Stockholm". Stefan holds a master of science degree and has an entrepreneurial background within the IT and Media industry. Stefan was a co-founder of the Auxano group together with Birgitta Ossmyr and joined it in 2004.

VICTORIA DAHL With a multiple background in fashion and design, Victoria went from studying art history at the Sorbonne in Paris to taking a Master of Science in Pedagogy and French. When she doesn’t write for Savor Media, she works as a teacher, artist and curator.

LOTTA ZACHRISSON

KEY TO STHLM

Lotta Zachrisson has worked as an international journalist since 2002. She has covered the conflict in the Middle East, filmed the Aboriginal struggle in Australia, discovered exotic places as a travel reporter, and called New York her home for eight years. In 2016 she returned to her home town, STHLM.

SHPF – Les Clefs d’ Or Sweden: STHLM Members / Hotels

Hotel Rival Sean Naughton Head Concierge. President Les Clefs d’Or Sweden Sheraton Stockholm Steve Watson Head Concierge. Vice President Les Clefs d’Or Sweden Hotel Kungsträdgården Adam von Mentzer Head Concierge. Secretary Les Clefs d’Or Sweden Linus Nerman Concierge. Vice Secretary Les Clefs d’Or Sweden Hotel Diplomat Lina Nilsson Head Concierge. Member Les Clefs d’Or Sweden William Snell Concierge. Treasurer Les Clefs d’Or Sweden Jose Maxwell Porter/Concierge. National member Sara Ståhl Front Office / Conference Manager. National member Isak Leima Concierge / Front Office. National member Nobis Hotel James Yip Head Concierge. Vice Treasurer Les Clefs d’Or Sweden Jonathan Liu Concierge / Service Manager. Member Les Clefs d’Or Sweden Grand Hotel Olow Frank Head Concierge. Member Les Clefs d’Or Sweden Dennis Sihlberg Concierge. Member Les Clefs d’Or Sweden Filippa Almeida Concierge. National member Ett Hem Johan Holmgren Head Concierge. Member Les Clefs d’Or Sweden Kim Asplund Concierge. National member Lydmar Hotel Carl Jones Concierge. Member Les Clefs d’Or Sweden At Six Andreas Dahlström Concierge. National member Hanna Liu Front Office Supervisor. National member Mathias Kick Assistant Front Office Manager. National member Haymarket by Scandic Patrick Silvermarck Lifestyle Concierge. National member Grand Hotel Saltsjöbaden Jonathan Kviborg Concierge. / Front Office. National member Hilton Slussen Daniel Angelov Porter. National member Michele Mayo Acting Night Manager. National member

KEY TO STHLM

Bank Hotel Viktor Nerman Concierge. National member

Yngve Lundin Honorary President

ASSOCIATED MEMBERS Fotografiska, the Swedish Museum of Photography Hard Rock Café Stockholm Kungliga Operan, The Royal Opera House Leading Car Service Lobby Limousiner OURWAY Tours Pop House Sweden / ABBA the Museum Prioritaire Delivery Service Savor Media Sixt Car Rental Stockholm Safari and Events Tre Klippare

SPONSORS American Express The International New York Times Strömma Sverige

By Sanchia Lambert

es Clefs d’Or - Sweden’s Golden Concierges

GOES BACK TO 1990, WHEN I LEARNED THE BEAUTY OF SERVICE THROUGH ONE OF THE BEST MOVIES OF ALL TIME, PRETTY WOMAN. An exceptional actor plays the incomparable, hotel manager-slash-fairy godfather-slash-golden concierge who ensures guests have the best, most memorable stay at “his” hotel. He captured my heart and respect through his dignified demeanor, style, sense of integrity, professionalism, outstanding service and friendship. Exactly the way I view a concierge today and with the utmost admiration. If you meet one with Les Clefs d’Or (directly translated “The Golden Keys”) on their lapels, you can be guaranteed that they hold the keys to opening nearly any door. I sit down with STHLM’s real life elite concierge, Sean Naughton, President of SHPF - Les Clefs d’Or Sweden and Head Concierge at Hotel Rival, so he can tell us just a little bit more. What is Les Clefs d’Or? Les Clefs d’Or, founded in 1952, is a global-wide association of professional hotel concierges. We have over 4000 members in 80+ countries and each member has access to this global network, often forming personal relationships with each other when we attend international congresses each year. Our members all wear crossed golden keys on our lapels, so we are easily identified. To become a Les Clefs d’Or Concierge, you have to have several years’ experience, be recommended by another member and have passed an inspection and oral interview. Therefore, if you see that your hotel’s concierge has the crossed golden keys on their lapels, you can be rest assured, that you are in good hands! What is SHPF - Les Clefs d’Or Sweden? We are the Swedish national section within the larger international association. SHPF (“Svenska Hotell Portier Föreningen”) was founded in 1926 and has the distinction of being the oldest union for hotel concierge and porters in the world! We just recently celebrated our 90th anniversary. Currently we have 13 international members in STHLM and Gothenburg as well as almost 20 more national members.

What inspired you to become a Concierge and why? I think I have the typical story. Most of us usually start working in the hospitality industry in other positions and, through trial and error, gravitate eventually to the Concierge desk. For me it was just a good fit. You have to have certain skill sets to be a good concierge and to enjoy your job. You have to love your city, be sociable, work well under pressure, and have a wide range of interests. You don’t have to be an expert in everything but have enough interest in different subjects. Why should a hotel guest use a Concierge as opposed to using the internet? Great question! These days you have all the information in the world at your fingertips through the internet, but nothing beats talking with a local expert. Not only have we tried the restaurants you want to visit, seen the exhibitions you are curious about, experienced the sightseeing tours you are considering, but we also speak the local language and therefore have even more information readily available. So, why not take advantage of our expert knowledge? What’s your favorite request from a guest ever? Hotel guests who contact me in advance to help arrange the perfect day for a special occasion. I once helped a guest rent a helicopter to fly his girlfriend out to an island in the archipelago where he proposed to her. And the strangest guest request you’ve ever received? I’ve had some strange ones over the years but in general terms, the ones that make me chuckle are the relatively simple requests, but which are impossible due to geographic difficulties. For example, guests who want to bike around the beautiful fjords (that is Norway), see the majestic Alps (that is Switzerland), visit Russia for an afternoon (too far away). The trick is to find them a suitable (or an even better) alternative. What do you see for the future of Les Clefs d’Or Sweden? The future is looking bright! We are slowly growing, both in size and reputation. We have one national member who will hopefully be able to apply for international membership in the near future. Some major actors in the STHLM hospitality and tourism sectors are working closely with us and they have been reaching out to us instead of vice versa. This is encouraging as it means the industry is realizing the benefits of tapping into the Les Clefs d’Or Concierge network.

KEY TO STHLM

MY FIRST UNDERSTANDING OF A CONCIERGE

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CONCIERGE’S LETTER

I would like to welcome you to the second issue of Key to STHLM. For years, STHLM has steadily grown as a tourist destination and everything points to 2019 being our best year yet. Who can blame people for wanting to visit STHLM? With a vibrant culinary scene, rich history, calendar full of fun events, unique attractions and close proximity to some spectacular nature, STHLM has something for every visitor. We hope that you will find this issue of Key to STHLM helpful in planning your visit in STHLM. Last autumn, after 5 years of extensive renovations and expansion, the National Museum finally reopened. This is Sweden’s premiere museum of classic and fine arts as well as design and the reopening was eagerly anticipated here in STHLM. Luckily, you will find an interesting article in this issue all about this great museum. Speaking of design, you will also find an interview with Swedish silversmith and jewelry designer Efva Attling in these pages. Her beautiful designs, worn by stars like Madonna, can make great gifts to bring back from STHLM. Also in the issue, you will find articles that cover the latest tourism trends. For example, museum restaurants. Combining cuisine and culture, several museums in STHLM now offer amazing dining experiences and not just art and history. Another trend these days is taking unusual sightseeing tours. Why sit in a tour bus when you can join the guys at Run With Me and combine sightseeing with jogging? What else? How about information on child-friendly activities, flea markets, vintage shopping and the outdoor activity center at Hellasgården? And if you don’t find what you are looking for in this magazine, make sure to ask the Les Clefs d’Or Concierge at your hotel for more personalized tips and recommendations. He or she is your local expert. Not only do we have firsthand knowledge of all that the city has to offer, we have an expansive network that allows us to help our guests to get the most out of their visit to STHLM. Why waste time Googling a generic answer when you can ask us and get personal advice from an expert? Welcome to STHLM! In service through friendship,

President / Les Clefs d’Or Sweden Ordförande / Svenska Hotell Portier Föreningen Concierge / Hotel Rival

KEY TO STHLM

Sean Naughton

pĂĽ ArkDes

Skeppsholmen

Great coffee Excellent lunch

ArkDes

PHOTO: MATS W. NILSSON

FROM YOUR CONCIERGE ADAM VON MENTZER Head Concierge Hotel Kungsträdgården. Secretary Les Clefs d’Or Sweden. Born in Gothenburg, partly raised in Houston TX, I’ve been a resident of STHLM for 20 years. Hotels have always been an allure and I’ve been in the business for over 15 years, the past 12 as a concierge. It’s a title I carry with great pride and even more so since becoming a Les Clefs d’Or in 2014. My wife, daughter and I live on the vibrant, hip and bohemian Södermalm, which is my favourite part of the city. My great passion is road cycling; I ride over 2500km/year and in as many countries as possible. The concierge role for me is foremost to be an ambassador for STHLM and personal guide for the guest, being able to provide them with experiences that are unique and tailored just for them. And perhaps to dare them out of their comfort zone, to make their visit to our capital a long lasting memory.

COFFEE Sweden has a strong coffee culture, we are actually one of the largest consumers (per capita) in the world, second only to Finland. So it’s no surprise that one will find hundreds of cafés around the city. There’s often a wide range of coffee sorts available, served whichever way you like it. Traditionally, the most common is filter brewed coffee. As I prefer black filter brew, I usually visit Drop Coffee or Le Mond. The latter is a cycling café that serves one of my favourite brands: Balck Coffee, founded by Sebastian Balck, a former pro-cyclist. It’s also a perfect spot for hearty and healthy weekend brunches.

LE MOND

DINE Hantverket is my favourite mid-upper-range restaurant, it’s very casually elegant. Set in the entry level of an office building, its secrets are almost hidden from the outside; inside one will find a warm and contemporary Scandinavian décor, superbly friendly service and a kitchen that delivers very refined and creative modern Swedish cooking, with a clear traditional connection.

WINE When it comes to wine bars, I prefer the small and secluded before posh and polished. So on a back street of Södermalm, you will find Vina. It’s warm, it’s local, it’s authentic and they have a wonderful selection of (mainly European) wines. Don’t miss out on the seasonal food, cooked in the small kitchen behind the bar.

HANTVERKET HANTVERKET

BIO CAPITAL

PHOTO: NIKLAS NYMAN

CULTURE What better way to spend cold and dreary winter evenings, than going to the cinema? Bio Capitol, with its beautiful art deco interior, aims towards a more grown up clientele, i.e. popcorn and candy are not the only snacks. Instead one can sit in their snug velvet chairs, whilst enjoying a glass of wine and snack of choice (nifty tables with lighting are provided) and taking in the latest movie. Don’t miss “Classic Thursday” or “Genre Sunday” for old favourites!

EXERCISE As long as there is no snow on the ground, you can go out for a bike ride. In under 20 minutes, you will find miles of quiet and sparsely trafficked country side roads. Take in the scenery, enjoy the solitude and get a proper work out. My favourite route takes me past Drottningholm palace and out onto Färingsö. Rent your road bike from Bianchi Café & Cycles. And if you need a cycling concierge, I’m at your disposal.

SHOPPING By Sanchia Lambert Photo Sanchia Lambert

LUXURY TRAVEL AND LIFESTYLE DESIGNER SANCHIA LAMBERT, IS A STYLISH ENTREPRENEUR AND WORLD TRAVELER WHO ADORES HER ADOPTED HOME CITY STOCKHOLM. FOUNDER OF TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE; A TRAVEL, LIFESTYLE AND EXPERIENCE COMPANY, SHE IS ALSO PASSIONATE ABOUT STYLE, CULTURE AND ALWAYS SEEKS INSPIRATION. COME ALONG AS THIS FEMALE FORCE SHARES HER FAVORITE SHOPPING SPOTS IN THE CAPITAL.

SANCHIA

“I moved to STHLM from Cape Town 13 years ago and was blown away by its incredible beauty, charm and the cool Scandinavian style which adds a new dimension to my sense of style. Besides designing experiences, I love creative directing fashion shoots, and am a writer and editor within style, luxury, travel, culture and more. This open city inspires me every day and I have endless places to share with you – here are just a few of my shopping go-to’s.” Vintage Treasures Some of my absolute favorite vintage gems I have found at Pop Stockholm for some really cool vintage jeans, this place is a little retro treasure trove you can hang out here all day. For gorgeous vintage dresses and coats Lisa Larsson’s is a must to stop at. Both of these stores are located in my favorite neighborhood city, SoFo in Södermalm. Pop Stockholm - Åsögatan 140, popstockholm.com Lisa Larsson Vintage - Bondegatan 48, lisalarssonsecondhand.com

POP STOCKHOLM

Svenskt Tenn An interior design store that is unlike what you may understand or know when it comes to Swedish design, this flagship store has a bit of a story. Founded by Estrid Ericson, in 1924 she launched the store to sell her pewter ware which expanded tremendously. In 1934 she joined forces with Josef Frank, a talented Jewish- Austrian artist, designer and architect. Frank was in need of safe harbor, a home away from the Nazi movement then. This beautiful collaboration was meant to be. Together they gained great recognition for the beautiful world they created, their quality works exuding bold patterns and colors in a time that felt grey. This is when they hit a peak, showcasing their pieces to world exhibits in New York and Paris. Like myself, Josef Frank adopted Swedish citizenship later in life and the rest is history with Svenskt Tenn. The flagship store gives me and many other Swede’s, so many good feels with their products in our homes. Svenskt Tenn - Strandvägen 5, svenskttenn.se Bibliotekstan Probably the chicest shopping district in the city, Biblioteksstan lies in the heart of the city, home to many high-end to middle-ranged brands and there is no shortage of great restaurants and cafés either. The next three stores are all found here:

KEY TO STHLM

BIBLIOTEKSTAN

RODEBJER

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

High End International It’s no surprise that the French style is a favorite, it has a certain “je ne sais quoi” that can only be described by what you see and how it makes you feel. Two chic imports to STHLM are the affluent French fashion houses Celine and Chanel. Chanel has also recently opened a beauty store around the corner. Celine is favored for its clean, elegant yet edgy lines and is one of my go-to brand’s for sunglasses. Celine - Mäster Samuelsgatan 5, celine.com Chanel - Birger Jarlsgatan 7, chanel.com Acne Studios One can never go wrong with a few cool and timeless wardrobe must haves from fashion power house Acne Studios. This brand just keeps on getting better gaining global recognition. Favored by many locals and celebrities alike due to its reputed quality and overall Swedish

coolness. I like this flagship store for its history as well, formerly a bank, this location is the former birthplace where a certain bank robbery heist took place that led to the original term ‘STHLM Syndrome’. Visit the store and see the vault still visible today. Acne Studios – Norrmalmstorg 2, acnestudios.com NK & Åhléns Department Stores For a broader variation of products including extra personal service, there are two major department stores I bounce between. NK is a heaven for all the luxury brands you could think of, both Scandinavian and International where focus is more on timeless luxury since 1902. NK is also home to local couture designers such as one of my favorites Fadi El Khoury. Åhlens is part of a bigger brand of chain department stores in the country, a heaven for the more affordable, everyday luxuries. Everything you need can be found here. Both offer bespoke personal services, such as Personal Shopping, with NK offering a little more exclusivity such as their beauty bars, wedding assistance and exclusive made-to-measure service for tailor-made men’s suits. NK - Hamngatan 18-20, nk.se Åhléns City - Klarabergsgatan 50, ahlens.se ÅHLÉNS

Tax Free Shopping tax-free in Sweden can mean up to 19% back for tourists who do not live in the EU. Ask your local concierge for a more tailored list of stores that may suit your style of shopping.

ACNE STUDIOS

CELINE

KEY TO STHLM

Rodebjer Rodebjer gives me all those feminine freedom feels. I love the colors, the patterns, the comfort and the way the it flows. Carin Rodebjer has combined her simple Scandinavian style with her love for color and comfort into gorgeous pieces that are perfect for any time of day and even better, when you are on vacation. Rodebjer - Norrmalmstorg/Smålandsgatan 12, rodebjer.com

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

Style

By Victoria Dahl

VINTAGE

SHOPPING VINTAGE PROVIDES AN OPPORTUNITY TO WEAR BEAUTIFULLY MADE CLOTHES THAT ARE INDIVIDUAL WITH A UNIQUE PIECE OF HISTORY. STHLM OFFERS A LOT OF SECOND HAND AND VINTAGE STORES WHERE VISITORS CAN FIND EVERYTHING FROM FAMOUS INTERNATIONAL FASHION BRANDS TO SCANDINAVIAN ONES SUCH AS ACNE STUDIOS. INSTEAD OF FOLLOWING TRENDS, ONE CAN OFTEN FIND A PERSONAL STYLE AND CREATIVE EXPRESSION BY CHOOSING SECOND HAND AND VINTAGE. IN ADDITION, IT IS AN ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY ALTERNATIVE TO TODAY'S MASS INDUSTRY.

ARKIVET

KEY TO STHLM

A MARCHESAN

A Marchesan. Odengatan 100 For true male vintage fans and those seeking a timeless and classic style with quality, visit A Marchesan! It is the vintage collector Alexander Marchesan who is behind the store and he explains the concept by saying it is a bit like stepping into his own world. The garment sold is a mix of tailor made and clothing from 1920 to 1960 with few exceptions. The accessories are from the best Italian, English and American manufacturers. The store also has a wide range of quality hats as well as a solid range of rugged shoes from the better manufacturers. This is a shop with a unique touch to it. Lisa Larsson. Bondegatan 48 Lisa Larsson's vintage shop is one of STHLM's most well-known vintage stores and a favorite among fashion experts. It is a traditional vintage store who sell nothing but vintage clothing and accessories. As you walk into this store you will find clothes, bags and shoes all over the place. It is not the place for “minimalists” but buying vintage from here has its benefits. You can find vintage clothes for women and men all the way from the 30s through the 70s. This store is a must for all the vintage fans.

Arkivet. Norrtullsgatan 33 Arkivet is a modern secondhand shop with women's and children's clothing for the environmentally and fashion -conscious customer. Here you can find both designer apparel and selected bargains from the big brands, as well as a beautiful selection of accessories like bags, shoes, sunglasses and jewelry. Pearl. Långholmsgatan 19 Is a store with a great second hand selection of garments focusing on progressive Scandinavian labels such as Acne, Our Legacy, Rodebjer and Wood Wood. It is a store where you get a personal style while being environmentally friendly or as one of the founder says “We highlight the fact that these beautiful garments are worthy of a longer life in the spotlight, instead of being thrown in the dark” This is the second hand store where you find garments that never goes out of fashion and who knows, it might be the next precious vintage piece. 59 Vintage Store. Hantverkargatan 59 59 Vintage Store has a fantastic selection of original vintage from 1920s onwards, mainly focused on dresses, glitter and glamor with a fabulous range of dresses in all its shapes and colors. Some of it from the best French and Italian fashion houses. The best thing is if you find a piece of clothing in the store that may not be perfect for you, one can get professional help from a tailor with the creation.

Small Glossary Antique clothing refers to garments from before 1920. Vintage is anything that dates after 1920 and up to the very early1980s. Retro mainly refers to the Sixties’ and the Seventies’ clothing. Second hand is anything after 1980 and is not vintage.

The food and the atmosphere is fantastic. The rest is history.

It is magical how the wingbeats of history find their way through the medieval alleyways and over the cobblestones to gently flicker the candlelight at your table. The joy that our chefs and service personnel radiate when they get to do what they love most of all – create an atmosphere and

prepare the table for memorable experiences – is no less magical. So welcome to the restaurant Agaton, the heart of Old Town where the best from Sweden has been embraced by the best from Italy since 1999!

The heart of Old Town restaurangagaton.se Restaurant Agaton | Västerlånggatan 72, 111 29 Stockholm Tel: +46 8 20 72 99 | Open daily: 11.00 - 23.00

Drottningholm A ROYAL PALACE AND A WORLD HERITAGE

”...the best example of a royal residence built in the 18th century in Sweden and representative of all European architecture of that period ... ”

Welcome to the World Heritage Site of Drottningholm and experience a historic environment of the highest international standards with Hedvig Elenora’s State Bedchamber, the Chinese Pavilion and the Baroque garden in the magnificent Palace Park. Royal Gift Shop and café.

L D H ER

E M IA O ND

RL D S A R V

Swedish Royal Palaces

Ä · V

www.royalpalaces.se Appstore / Google Play:

from unesco’s justification for inclusion on the world heritage list

· P A T RI M

Drottningholm Palace is on UNESCO’s World Heritage list

FROM YOUR CONCIERGE JOHAN HOLMGREN Head Concierge, Ett Hem. Member Les Clefs d’Or Sweden. I have worked as a concierge for most of my professional life and I’ve been a member of Les Clefs D’Or since 2014. I am driven to constantly find new ways and angles that help visitors get the best possible STHLM experience. In my free time, I like relaxing with my fiancée and daughter, and I take a keen interest in architecture, history and food. Having been born and bred in our beautiful city, I feel very proud to share my favorite spots with our guests, and I love getting to know them so that I can help tailor their visits. Curiosity and insatiability are two key qualities that I think make a good concierge, and which my colleagues and I strive to live up to.

GÄRDET / ASKRIKEGATAN

STOCKHOLM OLYMPIC STADIUM GÄRDET ARTIPELAG. MARGIELA & HERMÈS

Stockholm Olympic Stadium was built for the fourth ever Summer Olympic Games in 1912. It also hosted the Olympic equestrian competitions in 1956 as part of the Melbourne Olympics. Nowadays, the City of STHLM sets up skiing trails in the stadium each winter, giving visitors a chance to try out the historic course for themselves, right in the heart of the city!

ARTIPELAG As many of my colleagues agree, no visit to STHLM is complete without a trip out to the archipelago. If you want to combine your visit to the islands with a stop at one of our newest art museums, then look no further than Artipelag. The museum opened in 2012 and has gained a reputation for both the quality of its exhibitions and the architecture of the building itself. On display this winter and spring season is an exhibition on the collaboration between Martin Margiela and Hermès. The museum can be reached by boat in the summer.

PHOTO: JEAN-BAPTISTE BÉRANGER

SKOGSKYRKOGÅRDEN / WOODLAND CEMETERY

PHOTO: ANDERS FREDRIKSEN

The Woodland Cemetery is just a short subway ride south of the center. Two unknown architects (who have since become world famous), Gunnar Asplund and Sigward Lewerentz, were tasked with designing this cemetery in the south of the city in the mid-1910s. Work on the various chapels was finished in the 50s and today we can appreciate how the architectural styles changed over time – from a national-romantic style at the start to the more modernist style that we can see in the Holy Cross Chapel. Even the way nature has been used in the cemetery has become seminal. The cemetery has been on UNESCO’s world heritage list since 1989. ARTIPELAG AGRIKULTUR

AGRIKULTUR Small and intimate restaurant with 24 seats that I think is one of the best examples of modern Swedish gastronomy in STHLM Chefs Filipa Fastén and Joel Åhlin build their tasting menus around the best raw ingredients that the season has to offer. Agrikultur has managed to deliver food of the highest quality in a relaxed environment. It was awarded its first Michelin star in 2018.

KEY TO STHLM

PHOTO: CARINA BERG

A great example of functionalist architecture in STHLM – or modernism, as it is better known outside of Sweden. The area was built in the early 1930s, with focus placed on air and light, making it a very interesting example of the approach to spatial planning that characterized Sweden in the first half of the 20th century. Be sure not to miss Askrikegatan Street and its gorgeous townhouses – well worth the five minute walk from the downtown area.

Stockholm Qu 7 O S T O R E S • 16 O B R A N D S 20 MINUTES FROM STOCKHOLM CIT Y

At Stockholm Quality Outlet you’ll find 70 stores carrying more than 160 different brands. And since all the stores are outlets, everything is discounted between 30–70 %. Shopping here is always exciting: find that jacket you always wanted at a heavy discount, check out unique sample collections and make great bargains on fashion, sportswear, outdoor clothing, cookware, interior decoration and much more. And as we’ve got all the amenities you need – even a hairdresser – you can spend the whole day saving money!

W E E K D AY S 10 A M – 8 P M W E E K E N D S 10 A M – 6 P M Q U A L I T Y O U T L E T. C O M

微信公众号: StockholmOutlet

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FOR HIM A classical concept shirt made with a twist by two Swedes Nik and Ben. Nikben Short Sleeve Shirt SEK 1,495. nikben.com

Play it cool with these updated, modern and avant-gardist sunglasses with a French touch. Thierry-Lasry Stormy 084 Eyewear Unisex Handmade in Italy, Grey & Gold SEK 4,289. thierrylasry.com

Be on time for your next STHLM Adventure. O-Time by Orrefors Unisex Watch Designed by Lena Bergström. SEK 1,798. orrefors.se

The ultimate backpack for work, leisure or travels. Bernt Multi Deep Green/Dark Grey Backpack made in durable and Cordura® EcoMade polyester SEK 1.495. sandqvist.com

You can never thrust the weather. Be protected from rain and wind in this stylish design. Stutterheim Raincoat Stockholm Grey SEK 1,999. stutterheim.com

When you travel you create stories. Let this one be filled with your STHLM days. Arket Flexcover Notebook Medium format Price: SEK 150. arket.com

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All travels, long or short, require a high quality wash bag. Baron Small Wash Bag Brown Leather SEK 1,000. baron.se

Add some practical oomph to your look by adding one of these cool headphones to your favorite outfit. Urbanears Plattan in Emeraldgreen SEK 999. urbanears.com

Take a stroll through STHLM in these Swedish design shoes made of finest leather. Brukare sneakers SEK 1,699. ikea.se

GULD is open from dawn to dusk and is the perfect place to start the day

GULD kaffe & kök

with a breakfast meeting or a quiet break, with its exquisite view of

Eastmansvägen 10

green Vasaparken. Delicious, filling salads, brimming bowls and light

guldkaffe.com

hot courses are served all day. There is also an excellent selection

@guld.kaffe

of cold drinks, beer and wine. Or why not visit us after your visit to Sven-Harrys konstmuseum, for some yummy cakes and fantastic coffee.

Tuesday to Friday 8-21

Welcome to Guld!

Saturday 9–21 Sunday 9–18

ORES-STORE.COM

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Style Get a perfect hairday. Hairstory Dressed Up SEK 460. hairstory.com

Little Bend Over Ring Morganite, Efva Attling Cocktail ring in 18k white gold, emerald morganite and diamonds. SEK 29,900. efvaattling.se

By Susanne Raaf

FOR HER

Let those eyes sparkle. KICKS Beauty Single eye shadow SEK 79. kicks.se

GANT Signature Weave Shawl SEK 799. gant.com Filipa K, Soft Mohair E-Neck Sky SEK 1,700. filippa-k.com Böle Garveri Wooden Handle Bag Made in Sweden, 15-year warranty. SEK 9,795. boletannery.com

Twosome Necklace, Efva Attling One rounded ring and one squared with the words Amor Vincit Omnia love conquers all in Latin. SEK 2,300. efvaattling.se

Swedish Stockings Sock Gift box Lisa Lurex Sustainable hosiery producied from recycled materials. SEK 275. swedishstockings.com Filipa K, Velvet Plissé Trousers SEK 3,900. filippa-k.com

Reschia Rugged Boot Croco Brown A statement shoe designed to last. SEK 3,595. reschia.com

It’s all in the detail. Corinne Hair Asseccories Hairband Leather Braid SEK 2,295. corinnehairaccessories. tictail.com

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Vilhelm Perfumerie, Stockholm 1978 Eau de Parfum SEK 2,282. vilhelmparfumerie.com

By Susanne Raaf Photo Stefan Svensson

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ewellery Designer Efva Attling Talks from the Heart

The clothes you choose, the manner in which you speak, the way you style your hair and the type of jewelry you wear all combine to make a statement about whom you are. Jewelry maker Efva Attling is clear and concise in her bold and timeless designs. To her, it’s all about the means of communication and how the power of the words engraved on her jewelry can touch people in both dramatic and simple ways. She’s a natural-born designer fighting for equal rights

for everyone, with a heart that yearns for humanity, love and hope. Following a true passion Susanne Raaf meets a woman who turns history into the present with her Efva Attling Jewelry. Sitting down with Efva at Hotel Rival on Mariatorget, Södermalm, I’m instantly drawn to her hypnotic combination of grace, relaxed attitude and piercing blue eyes and, not

EFVA ATTLING ENJOYING THE FABULOUS VIEW FROM ONE OF THE SUITES AT HOTEL RIVAL

One success leading to new paths At the age of 16 she started as a silversmith apprentice to Bengt Liljedahl, one of Sweden’s most noted silver- and goldsmiths. However, life would take a different path, leading to a successful modeling career for more than 12 years, and on to starting a band called X-models, which became a one-hit wonder. As a side business, she would also design clothes for H&M. In 1996 she finally made it

back to creating jewelry and opening her first store on Hornsgatan in STHLM. Efva Attling quickly became the jewelry brand to be seen with, and when Madonna wore the piece “Homo Sapiens” in an advertisement - success was a certainty. Doing things with heart or not doing them at all When asked her about success, she replies that success means not giving a damn. She says that she’s only been successful in her career when doing the things she loves and when the creations come from within. “It’s a freedom and luxury to be able to design what I want”, says Efva. To this day she has created more than 900 different designs and has been able to grow organically without any shareholders, who might want to have a say about her designs. She is very anxious to preserve

KEY TO STHLM

to say the least, her natural beauty. It’s easy to feel at ease in her company and she draws you in to her personal sphere, where she openly shares her life philosophy and true passion for design. Efva was just 11 years old when she created her first jewelry called the Swan. Coming from a musical family where, her father was a part-time jazz musician, she’s always been surrounded by art, creativity and music. From this she also draws her inspiration.

KEY TO STHLM

her brand and not to sell everything at any cost. This has led her onto a new venture to open up her ninth Efva Attling concept store, a so-called store in store in the exclusive department store Shinsagae in Seoul, South Korea. Efva has recently been appointed as a purveyor to the Swedish Royal Court, having supplied her jewelry to the royal family for more than 20 years.

STHLM – a place to call home Efva has the world at her well-connected fingertips. Having lived in places like New York and Paris, it comes naturally to her to be part of an international melting pot. However, it’s intriguing to learn how STHLM has left an indelible impression on her. This is the place she constantly keeps on coming back to, and it’s the place she calls home. How to condense STHLM into a single perfect day? “Well”, Efva says, “I love to stroll around

this city. STHLM is made for walking but, since we are surrounded by water, you can also use public transport ferries to hop on and off between the islands. Not much of a surprise, as central STHLM is built on fifteen islands. So you’ll see why life on the water is pretty integral to the city.” Her own realm and viewpoint Efva would start on Södermalm, were she lives, and pass by Mariatorget, with the historic fountain of St. George and the dragon and its bustling morning life with parents taking their kids to kindergarten and the flower stalls opening up business for a brand new day. She would make a stop at her store on Hornsgatan, where of course jazz music is being played, setting the right tone for her personal jewelry, and then continue onward to Mosebacke, where she will have an unbeatable view of

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YOU & ME NECKLACE SVANEN (SWAN BRACELET) SPINE BRACELET LITTLE BEND OVER RING AQUAMARIN

It starts with photos and ends with a message From here Efva would walk along the historic Fjällgatan, located high up on the edge of a cliff with a city view - the street and its neighborhood lined with well-preserved wooden buildings from the 1700s on one side and a magnificent view of the city on the other. Thereafter, she would be inspired by Fotografiska, which is a museum that evolves and breathes photography. It’s also a great spot for a fika or a healthy and lunch, where each part of the produce is cooked to achieve its full flavor potential. Another ferry, another island and Efva ends up at the royal Djurgården – the best place for walks in beautiful settings. From thereon, she slowly makes her way back to the city and a tour to NK (Nordiska Kompaniet), where she buys tea. The best way to end a relaxing day is to end it on a positive note with a dinner at PA & Co. The restaurant is located on Riddargatsbacken, which is somewhat anonymous but central and probably one of STHLM's most famous hangouts among celebrities. Here you go to eat savory food and listen to gossip or just to enjoy the laid-back atmosphere. As I leave Efva in the lobby of Hotel Rival, her message is clear in my thoughts: “everyone has a message and everyone has a meaning in this world.”

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STHLM. The area is also known for its venues where cultural events take place. Here you will find a beer garden, restaurants, a theater (Södra teatern) and stages where local celebrities like Cornelis Vreeswijk have performed.

Mobile payments

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DESIGN

SCANDINAVIAN ESSENTIALS

25Lamp Dip Dyed/One of a Kind Locally produced & handmade of sustainable materials. SEK 3,700. kovacfamily.com

L:A bruket Detox Seaweed Tonic, SEK 429. shop.labruket.se

Nobel Stål Fish knife and fork SEK 169 á piece. gense.se Fru Embla Towel Fru Embla was nominated to FORMEX Formidable 2011 SEK 249 á piece. klassbols.se

Arket Casa Serving Tools Long 2-Pack in Beech Wood oiled with german hesse oil SEK 190. arket.com

Classic Berså Tableware Designed by Krister Karlmark commissioned by Stig Lindberg SEK 965. gustavsbergsporslinsfabrik.se

Bruk Karaff with an Oaklid 135cl by Anna Ehrner SEK 399. kostaboda.se

Monsun Wooden Hours Room Diffuser SEK 399. monsunspa.com

Easy Chair White Oiled Oak SEK 12,900. norrgavel.se

Kimono White Washed Cotton SEK 999. idyllien.se

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Miniature Greenhouse SEK 449. granit.se

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By Victoria Dahl

new

The

Nationalmuseum

been displayed in public. Prepare yourself for a momentous and unequaled art and design experience, where the spirit of the times is ever present and where the very building is an art experience in itself. The exhibition is arranged in chronological and thematic order, and the visitor is invited to take a trip through time into the history of art. If you follow the Time Line, as the largest display of collections is called, you will be able to view art from the 16th century up until the present day, and visitors will be fascinated by halls that have been painted in colors inspired by the nuances of yellow, green, pink and red of the 19th century. Handicrafts, paintings, sculptures, portraits, photography, drawings and design harmonize with each other here in halls that wind their way forward like labyrinths, while the huge windows now allow daylight to flood the rooms completely. Outside, visitors are also treated to a spectacular view of the waters of the City of STHLM. You then continue on your discovery of new halls. In the Sculpture Yard you feel as if you’re standing on a large

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PHOTO: BRUNO EHRS / NM PHOTO: ANNA DANIELSSON / NM

The new Nationalmuseum is Sweden’s largest art and design museum, housed in a majestic building dating back to 1866. It is now opening its doors once again, after more than five years of careful renovation. A renovation the like of which has not been seen in Sweden’s history of buildings, and which now gives more space for art and offers more scope for visitors. The architects and craftsmen who have been working on the project have paid meticulous attention to materials and furnishings, and each detail is well thought out, which you can see as you wander around in the museum. Nothing has been left to chance, and many of the technical parts, such as the elevator and ventilation system, have been integrated into the building and almost appear to be invisible. But behind the braided strip of dark brass on the entrance level, for example, you can sense the elevator taking visitors to one of the six floors. Be sure to look up in the glass courtyard when you’re in the Sculpture Yard - there is an enormous glass hive with triangles, which also means sounds are absorbed and fade away. Many of the objects are new and have been donated by private collectors, and some of them have never before

town square, and here, apart from taking a break and reflecting, you can take a look at sculptures reflecting the idealism and realism of the 19th century. Go a little farther and you’ll come to the Treasury, with its 1,170 small objects of major significance, a lot of which are now being displayed to the public for the first time. The design shop displays ceramics from the early 18th century and it also explains in detail the process of how an object comes into being. The Nationalmuseum has been commissioned by the state to promote art and is a museum that has something for all ages. In the Villa Curiosa, which is displayed in the Children’s World of Art, you will find a fun and philosophical exhibition of hatches and display cabinets containing well selected original objects, which make visitors want to find out more about the museum and the world outside. Something that should not be missed, is the new restaurant section. The environment here is an art experience in itself, and you can view objects that have been created by Sweden’s top contemporary designers The idea was, through interdisciplinary cooperation with as many designers as possible, to make them visible to the public and it has been a success. A total of 30 de-

PHOTO: BRUNO EHRS / NM

PHOTO: LINN AHLGREN / NM

THE GALLERY FOR ART FROM 1800-1870.

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VILLA CURIOSA, THE CHILDREN'S ART WORLD.

PHOTO: ANNA DANIELSSON / NM

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signers and artisans are represented here. Don’t miss the gigantic chandelier in the Glass Bar either, which is yet another example of how interesting it can be when different backgrounds blend together in a common project. In this inspiring environment, which faces Gamla Stan and the castle, classic design harmonizes with traditional Swedish artisan food, for which raw material is brought in from the 55th to the 69th parallels. Unexpected tastes meet here, modern and Swedish culinary traditions. Really simple Swedish food at its best or, as one of the owners, Fredrik Eriksson, describes it himself: “We'd like to invite you to a good, uncomplicated meal, using Swedish raw materials and traditions as a basis”. To find out more about the museum’s collection, you can easily download the Nationalmuseum Visitor Guide app, which will take you on a voyage of discovery through six centuries of art, design and architecture. It is full of inspiration and facts. An audio guide to the collections, also adapted for children, is available and is warmly recommended. In the new Nationalmuseum, which has now been reopened, new meets old, and there is something here for everyone, exactly as it was intended over two hundred years ago.

THE SCULPTURE COURTYARD.

PHOTO: BRUNO EHRS / NM

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THE FOYER WITH CARL LARSSON'S FRESCOES

PHOTO: BRUNO EHRS / NM

By Victoria Dahl Photo Hans Ekestang

STHLM´s Underground Art Exhibition

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TENSTA. THE THEME OF THIS STATION IS: "AN HOMAGE TO IMMIGRANTS. SOLIDARITY. FRATERNITY". ARTIST: HELGA HENSCHEN, 1975.

STOCKHOLM CITY. "ÖSTRA HALLONPLANETEN" (THE EASTERN RASPBERRY PLANET). ARTIST: MIKAEL PAULI, 2017.

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FITTJA. A SMALLER REPLICA OF CARL FREDRIK REUTERSWÄRD’S WELL-KNOWN SCULPTURE BY THE NAME OF "NON-VIOLENCE", 1998.

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HORNSTULL. "I MINNET GJUTET" (CAST IN MEMORY) BY EVA ZIGGY BERGLUND, 2013.

A spectacular art exhibition lies hidden under ground along STHLM’s one hundred and ten kilometer-long subway. It is what is often called the world’s longest art exhibition. Travelers can see a great many paintings, sculptures, mosaics, tiles, installations and other artwork displayed by 150 artists in over 90 of the city’s 100 stations. The STHLM subway is one of the most original subways in the world. The subway’s artistic decor transforms public spaces and the city’s transport system into an esthetic experience. The art reflects not only the subway’s construction history, but also Swedish art history and the Swedish art tradition. At the same time, the artistic designs depict historical events in Swedish society in general. Many artists have collaborated and contributed significantly to the decoration of the stations, and the different artists’ specializations and styles are the reason why the subway stations are so varied and unique. Each age has left its mark on the almost 60 years in which art has been created in STHLM’s subway, and it continues to be developed and renewed constantly. STHLM inaugurated its first subway line in 1950, which is not all that early, from a European view point. London had already built its underground in 1863, and Paris opened its metro in 1900. The fact that such a small city as STHLM built a subway was unique. Even today, there are only a few cities smaller than STHLM that have a subway. Yet STHLM’s subway ranks as number 18 in the world in terms of rail length. The first subway line you could travel on in the city of STHLM was between Slussen and Hökarängen, and was ready in 1950. At that time there was not yet any art in the subway. The first station to have artistic decoration was the T-centralen in 1957. Today, over 90 of the 100 stations in total have artwork. Since the artwork has appeared over several decades, the styles differ a lot from station to station and from line to line. But behind the project lies the overall intention to make art available for everyone, in a spirit of democracy. The STHLM subway system is divided into three sub-systems; the green, red and blue lines. The oldest line is the green line, which today stretches from Hässelby Strand in the west to Hagsätra, Farsta strand and Skarpnäck in the south. Along this line there are more stations above ground than under ground. The underground stations lie close to the surface and their distinctive features are walls covered with tiles. There are also typical stations from the 1950s, such as Hötorget,

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KEY TO STHLM

Rådmansgatan and St. Eriksplan. In many stations, especially the newer ones, the art is connected to the place in some way. A lot of stations along the green line were decorated long after they had been built. Bandhagen is an example of such an overground station, which was inaugurated in 1954 but only acquired its artwork in 1983. Other stations were completed and have been renewed in different ways, in order to reinforce the original structure, such as Hötorget, where in 1998 neon ceiling lights were installed in the old tiles, which had a slightly bluish tint. The red line between T-centralen and Fruängen/ Örnsberg was inaugurated in 1964. It now runs from Fruängen and Norsborg in the south-west, to Ropsten and Mörby centrum in the north-east. Most of the stations along this line are under ground, in blasted tunnels. They are decorated with ceramic materials, often in earthy colors. Typical stations from the 1960s are also found here: Östermalmstorg, Mariatorget, Hornstull and Mälarhöjden. The most famous artwork belongs to the Östermalmstorg station, which is well worth a visit. Paintings by the Swedish artist Siri Derkerts can be found here. There are drawings and texts on the subject of the struggle for peace and women’s rights, which have been carved into 145 meter-long concrete. The most recent line is the blue Järvabanan from 1975. It extends from Kungsträdgården to Akalla and Hjulsta. Here, the stations have acquired a totally new and unique character, through both new technology and a more accomplished artistic way of thinking. The STHLM subway can be regarded as a large, extensive art exhibition. Anyone who, contrary to expectations, hasn’t had their fill, after studying the 90 or so decorated stations, can make their way to Odenplan, Skanstull, Slussen, Fridhemsplan, Zinkensdamm, Mariatorget or Gärdet. Temporary art exhibitions can be viewed here, which are changed one to four times a year. You can follow authorized guides every week, who will tell you more about the artwork and the artists behind the works in the subway. The guided tour takes just over an hour and is free of charge provided that you have a valid travel ticket.

Here are the stations that are definitely worth stopping at: Blue line: Kungsträdgården, T-centralen, Rådhuset, Solna Centrum, Tensta Green line: Hötorget, Thorildsplan, Bagarmossen Red line: Tekniska Högskolan, Stadion For more information, please contact SL customer service +46 8 600 10 00

4 1. TEKNISKA HÖGSKOLAN. LENNART MÖRK’S CAVERNOUS STATION ALLUDES TO THE DIFFERENT ELEMENTS OF THE EARTH AND THE STUDY OF SCIENCE ASSOCIATED WITH THE TEKNISKA HÖGSKOLAN (ROYAL INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY). 1973. 2. SOLNA. THE RED CAVERN AT SOLNA CENTRUM BY ANDERS ÅBERG AND KARL-OLOV BJÖRK, 1975. 3. ENSKEDE GÅRD. "MOMENT IN MOTION" BY MARIA MIESENBERGER, 2014. 4. CENTRALEN. ARTIST: PER OLOF ULTVEDT, 1975. 5. STOCKHOLM ODENPLAN. "ITINERARY" 38 CHARCOAL SKETCHES ETCHED ONTO LAMINATED GLASS BY ANDERS KAPPEL, 2017. 6. KUNGSTRÄDGÅRDEN. ULRIK SAMUELSON HAS CREATED HIS OWN SUBTERRANEAN ROYAL GARDEN THAT BEARS TRACES OF THE PARK’S LONG HISTORY. ULRIK SAMUELSON, 1977, 1987 AND 1999. 7. BAGARMOSSEN. ARTIST: GERT MARCUS, 1994.

6 7

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THE RED PHONE.

PHOTO: Ã&#x2026;KE E:SON LINDMAN/ABBA THE MUSEUM

PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM / HIDESY

By Susanne Raaf

ABBA is Calling for You ”RING, RING, WHY DON'T YOU GIVE ME A CALL?” YOU BETTER HURRY AND PICK UP THE RED VINTAGE PHONE AT THE ABBA MUSEUM WHEN IT’S RINGING – IT MIGHT BE ONE OF THE ABBA MEMBERS CALLING TO SAY HELLO, SAYS MUSEUM DIRECTOR CAROLINE FAGERLIND.

The red phone is one of Fagerlind’s favorite items in the museum. It has a little sign on it, which says if it rings, pick up the phone. When it does, it will be one of the ABBA members calling, live, to chat with you. The idea came from ABBA’s Frida who had seen a Yoko Ono installation called Telephone Peace with the same message. “We want to create an atmosphere that is personal but not private”, says Museum Director Caroline Fagerlind.

SILICON DOLLS.

PHOTO: ÅKE E:SON LINDMAN/ABBA THE MUSEUM

PHOTO: PÅL ALLAN/ABBA THE MUSEUM

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WATERLOO 1974.

Dreams do come true A visit to the Beatles Museum in Liverpool gave Ewa Wigenheim-Westman and her husband Ulf the idea of an ABBA museum. But it wasn’t a walk in the park to get the group's approval. They got rejected a number of times, but after designing an idea and concept that built on a real-life experience for visitors, the ABBA members finally gave their blessings. Ingmarie Halling was appointed Creative Director/Curator, having worked with ABBA in the 70s managing their make-up and clothes. Caroline Fagerlind started as an intern during her studies at IHM Business School in 2010, and after two weeks she was already working with the touring exhibition, going to London and the exhibition hall Earls Court. It was an easy choice to make Fagerlind Project Manager when it was time to set up the ABBA museum at Djurgården, since she already had the experience. During Fagerlind’s eight years working for the museum she has had different roles. Now she has taken on the honorable role as Museum Director.

PHOTO: ÅKE E:SON LINDMAN/ABBA THE MUSEUM

CAROLINE FAGERLIND.

KEY TO STHLM

ABBA memorabilia and Celebrity After Party It takes a lot of research, time and trouble to find the items showcased in the museum. Creative Director Ingmarie Halling who had worked with ABBA on tour went around the first year and collected, borrowed or rented items from musicians, friends and the ABBA members. To determine that an item is genuine can be done in a few different ways. When they got the tip that the real mixer table that Michael B Tretow used in the Polarstudion was found – they could confirm it in a little special way. When the mixer table was taken apart, real hamburger seeds were found inside the table. One of the Polarstudio owners Lennart Östlund recalls that Björn and Benny used to eat hamburgers at the table so it was a sign that the table is genuine. Also, celebrities pay a visit to the museum when in STHLM. Sir Mick Jagger made a private tour of the museum, after opening hours in search of inspiration for a similar attraction dedicated to his own band. Pop star Katy Perry rented the whole museum and held a star-studded after tour party.

Walk In – Dance Out To Fagerlind it’s essential that visitors leave feeling like they have experienced something special. She says that the ABBA museum is creating experiences that go beyond its walls. She recalls one woman having been on their large hologram stage virtually together with ABBA as the fifth member performing her favorite song smiling from ear to ear. That kind of feel good is what we are trying to give all our visitors, she says. Hopefully it’s also an experience that will stay with them for a long time. Fagerlind adds that the museum asked their

PHOTO: PHOTO: ÅKE E:SON LINDMAN/ABBA THE MUSEUM

guests what more they wanted to know about ABBA and the response was clear. They wanted to know what happened to the group after 1982 when Björn, Benny, Frida and Agnetha decided to take a break. Now visitors will be able to get the full story of the four members from the folk park in the 60s until today. As always the museum show this together with interactive experience, for example the visitors get to try their hand conducting a virtual orchestra playing a piece of the music from Chess. In April 2019 they are opening a new exhibition about Mamma Mia the movies, where they will take the visitors behind the scenes. I am the city One of the last songs that ABBA recorded was I am the city from 1982. Here's how Caroline Fagerlind recommends spending a perfect day in STHLM. First, a perfect day starts with a morning walk to Djurgården. Here you’ll find everything you need for a lovely weekend – Skansen, the Vasa Museum, Rosendals Garden and the ABBA museum amongst others. Everything is found within walking distance and if you wish you could walk around the entire island in less than two hours surrounded by water and beautiful greenery. Caroline would eat lunch at POP HOUSE Food & Bar, visit ABBA The Museum, and in the evening go see a show at Cirkus. She also recommends staying overnight in the POP House Hotel located in the same house as the ABBA Museum. The hotel has theme rooms such as Mamma Mia, ABBA Gold etc. If you stay another night at beautiful Djurgården you shouldn’t miss Mamma Mia! The Party, says Caroline. She ends by saying, come and have a weekend filled with music, magic and memories!

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PHOTO: MATS BÃ&#x201E;CKER, DEWYNTERS AND PETER KNUTSON

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MAMA MIA THE PARTY AT TYROL.

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By Victoria Dahl

PHOTO: DAVID MAGNUSSON

L iljevalchstheandVårsalongen

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FORGOTTEN DREAMS BY RICARDO DONOSO.

PHOTO: LILJEVALCHS

As a visitor, you can leave behind the pretty hectic city scene of cars, buses, asphalt and traffic islands, and move to a quieter, more relaxing place out here on Djurgården. Here you will find Liljevalchs, which is an art gallery belonging to the City of STHLM, where the building dates back to 1916. Liljevalchs is one of Sweden’s finest galleries. Visitors from all over the world come here to experience art and form in one of STHLM’s most beautiful exhibition environments. The main focus of the exhibitions that are displayed in the art gallery has always been contemporary art; sculptures, installations, and also handicrafts are shown in several exhibitions throughout the year. An exhibition, assessed by a panel of judges, is also held here, which is known as the Vårsalongen (the Spring Salon). It is held from the middle of January until March, and in this way initiates each new art-year at Liljevalchs. Every piece of work is for sale here, and the price, which is set by participants themselves, is shown in the exhibition catalog. It is an exhibition with a history, and has been running since 1921, with a few exceptions during the Second World War. In recent years the salon bore other names too, and the exhibition period was changed. Otherwise, the concept has been the same throughout the years. It came into being as a result of an appeal from well-known Swedish artists, in a motion to the city council that what was needed in Sweden was a public and cost-free exhibition. It has grown into a huge pub-

STATION 5 BY BEA SZENFELD.

lic event and is currently a rich popular festival, where amateurs mingle with established artists in a myriad of art. According to Liljevalchs, the gallery displays art “that is visible and gets noticed”. Over the years, the art on display at Liljevalchs has always aroused debate both nationally and internationally. The exhibition of Mexican art from the early ages to the present day in 1952 was by far the biggest art event in Europe at the time, as it was referred to, not without some controversy, as communist propaganda. At the time, it was shown at Liljevalchs as the only European stop outside France. This shows what an important place this gallery has always had and still has in conveying contemporary art to the public in Sweden.

PHOTO: LILJEVALCHS

ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S YOU VS THE CITY

Solve the clues. Complete the challenges. Race around the city â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and be the first team back with the highest score.

www.100pointchallenge.com

By Erika Johansson Photo Jeppe Wikström

INSPIRATION STHLM

PJeppehotographer Wikström

KEY TO STHLM

The photographer Jeppe Wikström is doubly relevant right now – both as the curator of a STHLM Exhibition at the Fotografiska Museum and as the author of a magnificent new volume. He sees STHLM and its archipelago as his greatest source of inspiration and in his new book he looks at the city from a new perspective – the water.

Jeppe Wikström often speaks of STHLM as his home. -"Yes, that’s exactly what it is – my homeland. We use the word homeland a lot and often when talking about the countryside, but it doesn’t have to be used that way – for me, my homeland is this city of stone, built up across islands where the mighty river meets the sea." His love for STHLM has been key to his work as a photographer. He began taking photographs at an early age but lacks a formal education in the field. -"You might say that the Expressen newspaper was my photographic training ground. I took a lot of photographs for an old section of the paper back in the 80s called "All Around Stockholm" so the city has been my source of inspiration right from the get-go. There was no better way to learn than by taking snaps and then seeing the results within just a few hours." A lot of the best photographers of the time were working at Expressen then, like Jacob Forsell and Jan Delden. The paper’s photography crew became a sort of mentorship group for Jeppe. And he worked hard to deliver his shots. For example, he slept with the police radio on so he could be first on the scene if anything happened. -"This was of course a different type of photography, but in general all photography is like playing sports. The harder you train, the better you become. Shooting the

JEPPE ON A SHOT IN "STRÃ&#x2013;MMEN" IN THE HEART OF STHLM.

PHOTO: RENATA STEFANIC GULLSTRAND

KEY TO STHLM

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THE CLASSIC NET-BOAT HAS BEEN USED FOR FISHING IN STHLM FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS.

news was a bit like trying to abrade a ski trail," Jeppe says. He explains that once he had taken about a quarter of a million photos, something began to develop within his work. -"It was like I’d been playing the notes for ten years and now suddenly the music was coming all by itself. I found myself improvising rather than taking care to do what I had read I was supposed to." In the mid-80s, he set up the Skärgårdsbild Photo Agency and began gathering together images for what he hoped would one day become a book on the outer archipelago. The final product was published as Harmony of the STHLM Skerries and it took readers by storm when it came out in 1994. It quickly became one of the most widely sold photography books in Sweden. It also gave way to the Max Ström Publishing House which is now the biggest publisher of photography books in Scandinavia. Jeppe has now published around fifteen books of his own, most of which are about STHLM and its archipelago. His photos are regarded as having a particular luster and they are characterized by clean colors and clear lines. Many of his photos require a great deal of patience in order to get the right weather and light. -"The photos I take demand a great deal of presence. You have to be in the right place, both geographically but also mentally. Many of my best photos were taken time and time again before I could finally feel satisfied with them." He spends a lot of time planning ahead and often has a clear vision as to how the photo should turn out. But sometimes things don’t go as planned. Sometimes the end result is worse – and sometimes it is even better. He takes out his new book on STHLM and turns to a photo of Strömmen bay in the light of dawn. -"I had asked the captain of the Blidösund steam boat to sail out at dawn so that I could get a timeless shot of the vessel and the iconic Skeppbron bridge. I was in position at a window in the Grand Hotel and saw suddenly how a thick fog was rolling down from the heights of Södermalm above in the faint light of dawn. At once the photo took on a whole new dimension." The book contains more than 200 new photos of a city that revolves around the water. It is full of surprising perspectives and Jeppe says that he truly strived to show the city in a new light. -"Collaborating with the former city architect, Per Kallstenius, who wrote the text for the book, was a fantastically inspiring experience. I have learned such an incredible amount about the city during the four years we worked together on the book." Many of Jeppe Wikström’s projects are mastodonic in

KEY TO STHLM

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STHLM HAS MANY HIDDEN CORNERS. BECKHOLMEN AND THE HOTEL PRINCE VAN ORANGIÃ&#x2039;N IS ONE OF THEM.

KEY TO STHLM

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

THE WATERLILYS MAY LOOK LIKE THEY ARE IN A HIDDEN LAKE, BUT THEY ARE IN FACT BLOOMING IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CAPITAL OF SWEDEN.

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

KEY TO STHLM

nature. His own books are wide-ranging in scope and often have tens of thousands of photos lying behind them. But in his role as publisher, Jeppe has also run some of the country’s biggest photo projects. He seems to enjoy switching between the roles of conductor and first violinist at will. –"It is such a great deal of fun to work with photos taken by other photographers. And it is enormously enriching as well. I am often asked about my photographer role models and as you might expect I do indeed have a few, such as Sune Jonsson and KW Gullers. But my all time biggest role models are my very own colleagues here at the publishing house, such as Paul Hansen, Anna Clarén, Helene Schmitz and Åsa Sjöström." Last winter, he was the curator of an exhibition at the Fotografiska Museum named Stockholm Forever in which he gathered together works by many of his favorite photographers. The exhibition – which is ongoing until 17 February 19 – is a journey of discovery across postwar STHLM from the perspective of numerous different photographers – but without even a single photo taken by Jeppe himself. –"There were so many great photos that I wanted to include, so it would have felt audacious to leave some of them out in favor of my own photos." Few know STHLM as well as Jeppe and he often manages to find perspectives of the city that have never been seen before. Even so, his favorite places are openly accessible and sometimes surprisingly obvious. –"Take Montelius Street, for example. This is a fantastic promenade which hangs off the edge of the Mariaberget area and offers incredible views over the entire city. It is one of the best spots in the whole city, if you ask me. Another favorite location is Kastellholmen Island which is at once in the heart of the city while also feeling like a secluded archipelago island." His deeply personal favorite spot right now, though, is the Stadsgård elevator which he has just taken over as a workshop and writer’s recluse. It is right on the edge of the lofty Södermalm district and floats high above the Fotografiska Museum. –"It is a very special place. Inside feels like being in a lighthouse and a convent cell at the same time. Hidden

away, but with the best possible view. I love sitting there and writing, or even simply reading. STHLM is a place that is marked not only by the water and its islands, but by the seasons as well. The different heights of the sun create a special kind of light in STHLM," Jeppe claims. –"It is one of the most exciting places in the world, purely in terms of its light. Particularly when the sun is sitting at the same height at places on the same latitude. My secret when it comes to light in STHLM is the city’s huge reflective bodies of water that create a multidimensional light in much the same way as reflective screens manage to do. Everyone who has walked along streets such as Strandvägen or Norr Mälarstrand knows very well that even when it’s cloudy, the water and the light interact." Following the success of his latest book, Stockholm– Water, Islands and the City, Jeppe is already underway with work on a new book. While at the same time, he has also started up an Instagram account under the name of @stockholmforever. This is a place where he and his colleagues can share photos that are simply permeated with their love for STHLM. – "I know it might sound like a cliché, but STHLM really is one of the most beautiful cities in the world!"

JEPPE'S LATEST BOOK IS AVAILABLE AT FOTOGRAFISKA AND AT ADLIBRIS.COM

Follow the work of Jeppe and his colleagues on Instagram: @stockholmforever or visit his website: jeppewikstrom.se

STOCKHOLMS STRÃ&#x2013;M 2 PASSES BLASIEHOLMEN WITH THE NATIONALMUSEUM'S FACADE REFLECTED IN THE WATER.

27 September - 31 March

Nothing is quite as it seems in David Shrigley’s universe. The laws of physics are suspended and the everyday world is distorted, revealing a rare and mordant sense of humour. Do not miss His Exhibition of Giant Inflatable Swan-things at Spritmuseet. But hurry down the rabbit-hole, it closes on the 31st march. spritmuseum.se ____________________ 2

31 March

Joe Labero has taken Las Vegas by storm. He is now preparing for an even more amazing show - with its world premiere in Sweden. With fire-breathing world artists, stuntmen and MC stars. Artistry that defies the law of gravity. labero.se ____________________ 3

PHOTO: JONAS LINDSTRÖM

12 April – 14 April

A Swedish Art Basel in miniature format. Some of the most prominent galleries and artists in the Nordic region come together at this annual art fair to harmonise with new rising stars. Perfect for the experienced buyer of art as well as the novice, who just wants to have a look, be inspired and learn. marketartfair.com ____________________ 4

4 May

Many people have dreamed of a reunion! Axwell, Sebastian Ingrosso and Steve Angello have now chosen to put the past behind them and to reunite – not only as Swedish House Mafia and artistes, but also most importantly of all perhaps - as three best friends with a mission. swedishhousemafia.com ____________________ 5

24 May

KEY TO STHLM

Enjoy the food, drink and entertainment, plus a lot of exciting exhibitors. Experience the Archipelago Fair and the Veteran Boat Festival with handicrafts and entertainment. All this and much more at the Sverigedagarna Festival on Djurgården! sverigedagarna.se

PHOTO: OLAV HOLTEN

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CULTURE CALENDAR By Gabriel Kotowski

PHOTO: JEAN-BAPTISTE BÉRANGER

KEY TO STHLM

PHOTO: HANNES SÖDERLUND

KEY TO STHLM

PHOTO: ASICS STOCKHOLM MARATHON

60 9 7

6 6

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CULTURE CALENDAR

6 4 May - 25 May At the Farmer’s Own Market, Tessinparken (Östermalm) and on Katarina Bangatan (Södermalm) you can meet the farmers and producers behind the locally grown products. Everything is made with love and produced locally to you. Be sure to sample food and chat about farming. bondensegen.com ____________________ 7

1 June

The ASICS Stockholm Marathon is being arranged this year for the 41st time. Participants run the classic distance of 42,195 metres through STHLM, passing several of the capital’s most famous buildings. stockholmmarathon.se ____________________

28-29 June

The major international and iconic music festival Lollapalooza come to STHLM. Four stages filled with the world’s most amazing artistes and hottest names in everything from rock to hip hop and electronic dance music. lollastockholm.com ____________________ 9

17 August

After several years of not producing records, world star Robyn is back with a new release. She has also planned a gigantic concert on the classical arts site at the Maritime Museum. robyn.com ____________________

KEY TO STHLM

PHOTO: ASICS STOCKHOLM MARATHON

Robert Rauschenberg, Monogram, 1955–59 © Robert Rauschenberg/Untitled Press, Inc/Bildupphovsrätt 2018 Foto: Albin Dahlström/Moderna Museet

Opening hours Tue 10–20 Wed–Thur 10–18 Fri 10–20 Sat–Sun 11–18 Mon closed

The art of our time. modernamuseet.se

The Museum Scene

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EXPLORE THE MANY MUSEUMS STHLM HAS TO OFFER. HERE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITES.

The Vasa is the only seventeenth century ship preserved in the world. Ninety-five percent of it is original, and it is adorned with hundreds of carved sculptures. The salvaging of the Vasa was a historic moment, and today Sweden is able to boast of a treasure that is unique in the world. The ship is displayed in a specially constructed museum in STHLM. The Vasa is surrounded by 11 different exhibits, a well-stocked museum shop and a first-class restaurant. Tours of the museum are conducted daily, and they can now be experienced in a new way through audio tours. There are 15 stations designated around the museum with 15 different soundtracks that you can download directly to your device or MP3 player. A video about the Vasa is available in 16 languages. The Vasa Museum is the most frequently visited museum in Scandinavia, and the Vasa alone can be worth a trip to STHLM. vasamuseet.se

VASA MUSEUM

PHOTO: KAROLINA KRISTENSSON / THE SWEDISH NATION MARITIME MUSEUMS

ARTIPELAG

October 26th 2018 to March 10th 2019. Between 1997 and 2003, Martin Margiela was appointed by Jean-Louis Dumas, the CEO of Hermès at the time, as artistic director of the Parisian house women’s ready-towear collections. This collaboration turned out to be one of the most exciting in fashion history, and it is now presented in the exhibition Margiela: The Hermès Years.

PHOTO: ANDERS FREDRIKSEN

Margiela: The Hermès Years.

KEY TO STHLM

Artipelag is a great place to spend the day. First-class by anyone’s standards, it is attractively located in the Hålludden neighborhood of Värmdö, surrounded by the STHLM Archipelago. The 10,000-square meter area features a large art gallery, a shop that offers original design products and a pair of restaurants with outdoor seating and lovely views. Take your pick of art exhibits and activities to get your creative juices flowing. The unique setting is especially famous for its dazzling 800-meter boardwalk, including wide larch wood footbridges, from the lower parking level past the piers up to the western entrance of the building. Easy access by boat, bus or car – a steamboat pier for passenger service from downtown, a floating pier for pleasure craft, and year-round, daily public transportation. artipelag.se

PHOTO: MARINA FAUST. MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA A/W 1996-1997.

SKANSEN

PHOTO: CARINA BERG

Travel back in time and experience the Sweden of the past – Skansen is the world’s oldest open-air museum, founded in 1891. Historical buildings are surrounded by beautiful gardens and a profusion of flowers from all over Sweden. Skansen is also STHLM’s only zoo, with Nordic wild animals and native Swedish breeds. During the summer, there is a wide selection of concerts, folk music, dances, and various theme days. Dance around the maypole and join one of the best Midsummer celebrations, celebrated here annually. Everyone is welcome. Enjoy a delicious meal in one of the restaurants or buy genuine Swedish handicrafts in the museum shop. Skansen is open all year round. skansen.se

PHOTO: VIKINGALIV

KEY TO STHLM

VIKINGALIV Vikingaliv (The Lives of the Vikings) is a new STHLM museum. Learn about the most famous and fascinating seafaring warriors the Nordic countries have ever produced. Historical facts and the latest archeological findings go hand in hand. Virtual exhibits, suspenseful tales and informative showcases will keep your head spinning. An educational, playful and interactive approach, not to mention a voyage on a Viking ship, promise a fun-filled day. Get to know a slice of Scandinavia’s past. vikingaliv.se

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NATIONALMUSEUM

THE UPPER STAIR HALL WITH CARL LARSSON'S PAINTING THE ENTRY OF KING GUSTAV VASA OF SWEDEN INTO STHLM, 1523 PHOTO: BRUNO EHRS / NM

After five years closed he renovation of the new spectacular Nationalmuseum at Blasieholmen is finished and the museum has been opened again since October 2018. The Nationalmuseum is a government authority with a mandate to preserve cultural heritage and promote art, interest in art and knowledge of art. The collections comprise of painting, sculpture, drawings and prints from 1500-1900 and applied arts, design and portraits from early Middle Ages up until present day. In the museum restaurant, design is integrated as part of the concept. Some of Sweden's foremost designers have been involved in everything from the interior design to the cutlery. Head chef is Fredrik Eriksson. nationalmuseum.se FROM THE GALLERY FOR ART FROM THE 18TH CENTURY.

PHOTO: ANNA DANIELSSON / NM

DROTTNINGHOLM PALACE

PHOTO: ©KUNGAHUSET.SE

Visit some of these gems as a complement to your STHLM trip. Outside of STHLM’s urban core are many lovely towns, as well as the islands of the archipelago. Hop on the subway or buy a ticket to one of the archipelago ferries, and discover another, greater STHLM. In the app ”GuidiGO” there is an audio guide, in six languages, about the UNESCO World Heritage Drottningholm which you can download prior to your visit. kungahuset.se

KEY TO STHLM

Drottningholm Palace is among the bestpreserved royal palaces from the 17th century and is representative of all European royal architecture from that period. The unique layout of the palace includes the exotic Chinese Pavilion pleasure palace, the palace theater and the magnificent palace gardens. The palace was commissioned by Queen Hedvig Eleonora and built by architect Nicodemus Tessin the older. It has been the Swedish royal family’s permanent residence since 1981.

FOTOGRAFISKA

PHOTO: KIRST Y MITCHELL

You can't get more popular than this. Fotografiska in STHLM is a world-class museum where everything revolves around photography but with so much more to tickle your mind and senses. There's always an exciting new exhibit for you to feast your eyes on, not to mention an excellent shop and a award winning restaurant with its chef from a well-known TV cooking show. Open more hours a year than any museum you have ever heard of, Fotografiska has won acclaim and attracted visitors from far and wide. While the museum is certainly the place to go if you are looking for the latest and most provocative photography, it is also a watering hole for people who love all kinds of beauty and culture. With their magnificent view of STHLM and Old Town, the salons in the restaurant and cafe on the top floor are fashionable hangouts during the winter. The sidewalk cafe just outside the entrance beckons with its promise of gastronomic delight all summer long. Hours: 9 am to 11 pm every day of the year, with the exception of Midsummer's Eve and Christmas Eve. fotografiska.se

PHOTO: KIRST Y MITCHELL

A journey through a healing grief in a fairy tale kingdom. KIRSTY MITCHELL AND HER WONDERLAND PROJECT 7 Dec 2018 – 3 March 2019

SVEN-HARRY’S ART MUSEUM

KEY TO STHLM

PHOTO - JEAN-BAPTISTE BÉRANGER

Sven-Harry’s Art Museum is a little jewel encased in the spectacular Gold Building of STHLM’s Vasaparken. The roof features a replica of Ekholmsnäs, the founder’s eighteenth century manor on the island of Lidingö. Visitors can make themselves at home and browse through one of Sweden’s biggest private collections of Nordic art, zealously assembled over the past 35 years. Painatings by Carl Fredrik Hill, Ernst Josephson, Helene Schjerfbeck and August Strindberg, as well as furniture by Gio Ponti and tapestries by Märta Måås-Fjetterström, titillate the eye. The terrace boasts a series of sculptures and a breathtaking view of the city. Sven-Harry Karlsson has received His Majesty the King’s medal “for significant contributions to Swedish culture.” sven-harrys.se

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THE CITY HALL Politicians and unique art treasures gather under City Hall’s coat-of-arms adorned tower. Every year in the Blue Hall (which in fact is not blue), guests in festive evening attire gather for the formal Nobel Banquet, followed by dancing in the Golden Hall. This stunning hall is made up of over 18 million gold mosaics. The only way to ensure that you do not miss this magnificent, national Romantic style building is to take one of the guided tours offered year round. In the shop you find representative products for STHLM and Sweden. In the summer, you can also visit the tower with its fantastic view of STHLM. You can download the audio guide ”Stockholm City Hall exterior and garden tour” for free to your smartphone or tablet from the GuidiGO app prior to your visit. stockholm.se/stadshuset

PHOTO: BJÖRN OLIN / IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

Moderna Museet has one of Europe’s finest collections of modern and contemporary art. It includes key works by Pablo Picasso, Ljubov Popova, Salvador Dalí, Meret Oppenheim, Robert Rauschenberg, Donald Judd and Irving Penn, along with works by contemporary practising artists. The Collection covers paintings, sculptures, installations, films, videos, drawings and prints by Swedish and international artists from the 20th and 21st centuries, and photography from the 1840s until today. The sculptures outside the museum on Skeppsholmen are also a part of the Moderna Museet collection. modernamuseet.se

MODERNA MUSEET

THE MODERNA MUSEET IN STHLM IS LOCATED ON THE CITY ISLAND OF SKEPPSHOLMEN IN A BUILDING DESIGNED BY THE SPANISH ARCHITECT RAFAEL MONEO, AND WAS INAUGURATED IN 1998. PHOTO: MODERNA MUSEET/ÅSA LUNDÉN

Gilbert & George, two men who together are one artist. For more than five decades they have been creating art that challenges the conventions of art and society with a blatant disregard for any notions of “good taste”. The Great Exhibition treats you to a unique artistic vision, with over fifty pictures selected by Gilbert & George.

KEY TO STHLM

GILBERT & GEORGE THE GREAT EXHIBITION 9 Feb – 12 May 2019

GILBERT & GEORGE, BE ARDARY, 2016 © GILBERT & GEORGE

By Kenneth Lagström

Newtrend! THE TOP RESTAURATEURS IN STHLM ARE FOLLOWING THE INTERNATIONAL TREND AND OPENING NEW RESTAURANTS IN THE CITY’S MUSEUMS!

KEY TO STHLM

Glöd

Anna Broms, one of the city’s well-known restaurateurs, runs the successful restaurant BROMS in Östermalm, a district of STHLM. Anna was contacted by the initiators of the little alternative museum, Viking Life, a couple of years ago. They told her about their idea of opening a museum dedicated entirely to the Viking period. At the museum they needed a restaurant that could prepare and serve Nordic food inspired by the Viking age. They wanted Anna to manage, run and develop it. After reflecting for a while, Anna decided to accept the proposal. She was delighted about Djurgården’s excellent location, not far from Östermalm, close to the water and the maritime entrance to STHLM. The results were astounding! On April 29, 2017, the doors were opened up to Viking Life and the Glöd restaurant. The name glöd (“embers”) leads your thoughts to methods of cooking food in the olden days, where a jumble of pots, pans and skewers were used to satisfy the appetite of the hungry Vikings! The focus is on food with a modern Nordic emphasis, where everything is prepared with carefully selected raw materials according to the season. On the menu you can find classic open shrimp sandwiches on dark bread, salmon in various forms that appeal to most, or why not try a cauliflower soup when the cold weather sets in. But for those who really want to feel like a Viking, I suggest the delicate Vikingapanna, with confit of pork knuckle, juniper-smoked pork, pointed cabbage and root vegetables. The food is, naturally, washed down with the Vikings’ favorite drink, mead, a kind of beer brewed in the old way. The restaurant has seating space for 90 guests. There is an authentic, warm Scandinavian feel about the interior design, with everything from limestone flooring

from Burgsvik to Emma Olber's chair Arnold with three sorts of leather and a table in Swedish ash wood. A truly modern Viking feel! The prices are guest-friendly and the food is exciting and healthy. Of course, there’s wine for the adults, if they want it, and food for the younger visitors too. Everyone leaves the museum and restaurant with the feeling that they have had a close encounter with the Vikings of old!

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

The name glöd (“embers”) leads your thoughts to methods of cooking

Anna Broms

KEY TO STHLM

food in the olden days.

PHOTO: ERIC BROMS

Newtrend! The Modern Museum´s Restaurant

KEY TO STHLM

Malin Söderström

Malin Söderström, the first woman in the Swedish Kockland team, runs the fish restaurant The Fishery. The restaurant is located on Brunkebergs torg, around 15 minutes’ walk from the museum. Malin also runs, successfully, the Modern Museum’s restaurant, which boasts one of the city’s best views from the dining room. Visitors are struck by her happy expression and pleasant manner, even when things are a little hectic in the restaurant. Malin often says - “a little stress never hurt anybody”! She has worked at the star-spangled restaurant Paul & Norbert, so you could say her food mentor is Norbert Lang! Malin has also been responsible for one of Sweden’s most prestigious dinners: the Nobel dinner in the City Hall, with 1,400 guests. In 2018 she was praised by the media for “a long-term significant gastronomic feat, her motivation for which is”: She has had a down-toearth food philosophy for many years and has been an inspiring figure in a male-dominated culinary world, by

participating in competitions, training programs and future-oriented catering projects. As far as experience is concerned, she has everything you could wish for. She has been running the restaurant at the Modern Museum for over 10 years. When contacting the museum, you are proudly informed who is responsible for the restaurant. -“Our objective here at the restaurant is to prepare wholesome, honest and sustainable food,” says Malin. That it tastes good is something I and a lot of the restaurant’s guests can bear witness to. Apart from a fantastic “meal of the day”, the restaurant also offers a brunch buffet at the weekend. Freshly baked baguettes, pickled, oven-baked and fresh vegetables. Three types of herring, and air-dried ham. Salami, cured and smoked salmon, and much more. Delicious coffee is served in the café by the entrance, along with sandwiches and home-made products You are always in good hands if you take a meal at the Modern Museum. This is something Malin guarantees!

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

The Restaurant at Fotografiska Museet Paul Svensson is one of the most prominent restauranteurs in STHLM. Paul runs the restaurant at Fotografiska Museet. Paul is regularly seen on TV where he is often championing sustainable and organic produce. In addition, he is a big advocate of the minimization of waste in all forms. “Use all of the ingredients,” is his regular catchphrase and “keep in mind that 1/3 of all food around the world is thrown out. It’s an enormous waste of resources”! In addition to the restaurant at “Fotografiska”, Paul also runs a hospitality consulting company, through which he helps his colleagues with the thing that is closest to his heart. 2017 was a big year for Paul. Leading Culture Destinations Awards (something like the Oscars for cultural institutions) recognized his restaurant as the best museum restaurant in the world. Of course, it was Paul’s food philosophy and the great results from this that contributed to the award. When I ask Paul if this has been reflected in an in-

crease in the number of visitors, he agrees and says, “We have a smoother flow and are often packed! Naturally, this has also contributed to strengthening the entire “Fotografiska” brand. You have one destination and get many experiences,” he says. “The kitchen is seasonal,” explains Paul. “That means that we serve the most sustainable and flavorsome produce available in meat, seafood and poultry in each season.” In our kitchen, we take care of the full raw produce. For us, all the components are delicacies with unique flavors. I get help from my smart chefs and together we take the raw produce to new heights. Many dishes comprise the same raw ingredients prepared in different ways. That means we can highlight the potential and unique flavor of the raw produce,” he says. My personal favorite is brunch at the restaurant. Each Saturday and Sunday from 11 AM - 4 PM all year round! Brunch and the entrance fee to the museum are included. Tables must be booked via the website: fotografiska.com/brunch

PHOTO: JOHAN STÅHLBERG

Paul Svensson

KEY TO STHLM

PHOTO: ERICA WESSMAN

PHOTO: JOHAN STÅHLBERG

Handmade - Unique -

Small Scale

www.bywodelius.tictail.com @bywodelius

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

"A Herring and a Nip... ... BUT QUICK – BEFORE KARL XI'S HENCHMEN CATCH US ALL IN FLAGRANTE DELICTO."

THAT’S HOW IT MIGHT HAVE SOUNDED IN AD 1694 WHEN WIDOW ANNA LINDBERG RAN A TAVERN IN ONE OF THE FIVE SMALL HOUSES ON THE CORNER OF ÖSTERLÅNGGATAN, JUST IN FRONT OF ST: GEORGE AND THE DRAGON, IN THE HEART OF STHLM’S OLD TOWN. And then the house was renamed "Three Princes” and began offering tastings in French. The Bernadottes had taken over as the Kingdom’s rulers and taste arbiters. In 1969 the restaurant gets its current name ”Fem Små Hus” (Five Small Houses) and have been called so ever since. Nowadays, Fem Små Hus is a first-class restaurant where guests are served a blend of classic Swedish cuisine with French touches. Set in a fantastic historical setting with seven beautiful cellar vaults, and nine historic rooms in five small houses. St. George and the Dragon lead the way. The fifth alleyway from the royal castle. In the heart of one of the world's oldest preserved mediaeval towns: Gamla Stan - STHLM’s Old Town.

KEY TO STHLM

In AD 1694, widow Anna Lindberg ran an illicit drinking house in one of the five small houses on the corner of Österlånggatan. A stable boy from the royal house took over the regular business at the end of the 17th century and soon, in 1715, a sign saying "Three Kings" appeared as the name of the inn. Perhaps the Court Poet Bellman had named it thus in a show in the vault?

Visit Fem Små Hus and discover classically genuine food - in remembrance of one of the earliest innkeepers, “Fillet of Veal Anna Lindberg” is served - a popular classic and one that has been on the menu since 1969. Enjoy a bottle of wine from the extensive wine cellar crammed full with brands from all over the world. Make use of their chambre separée where elegant cocktailparties and wine tastings can be held. In other words - don’t make your visit a quick one.

e i r e s u Ca

By Bengt Gangemi Maître d'hôtel Restaurant Aktiebolaget Kvarnen

KEY TO STHLM

R- Södermalm´s estaurant Kvarnen Natural Hub

Södermalm is an island that lies between Gamla Stan (the old town) in the north and Arenastaden in the south, which grew up around the Slakthus area. The Slakthus can be likened to Ködbyen in Copenhagen, an old meeting place for charcuteries and light industries, which is currently undergoing a transformation to a modern city. In Arenastaden we find Globen (the Globe Arena), Hovet (the Court) and Nya Söderstadion (the New South Stadium). Many football and ice hockey matches are played out here, and here is where the biggest artists perform. From the west flows fresh water from Lake Mälaren, and from the east we get salt sprays from the Baltic Sea. Wherever you are on Södermalm, you are close to the water. My favorite places to go for a stroll are the Monteliusvägen near the Södermälarstrand beach and Tantolunden in the south. There’s no better position to be found in STHLM, and it’s easy to see that this part of the city is teeming with life. It’s an old workers’ quarter, which in its day was situated on the outskirts of what was then a town. The town has now grown and Södermalm is part of the most central area of STHLM. On Södermalm we have known this all along, so we take the onslaught easy and

wish everybody welcome to our home. This is where new meets old, and you can find trendy new boutiques, pubs and restaurants rubbing shoulders with millinery shops and beer houses, which have been around for 100 years. We like to see ourselves as the folksy part of STHLM, a place for everybody. Tourists go for walks here, businesspeople meet here and here is where everyone has a good time. Working traditions have not yet died out completely, and the prices and noses have not yet gone through the ceiling. There’s a lot to discover here, and a lot of tastes to try. Even today, demonstration processions start from the Medborgarplatsen on the 1st May, jostling with all the open-air cafes during the summertime. The hustle and bustle you see here cannot be found anywhere else in STHLM. Everybody feels at home and everybody hangs out. Södermalm’s natural hub is Kvarnen (The Mill). Home cooking has been served here for over 100 years. If you take the metro, get out at the Medborgarplatsen and take a taxi, just tell the driver ”Kvarnen”. Everyone living in STHLM knows Kvarnen, so if you’re out for a walk here, just ask for directions. Everyone has an affinity with Kvarnen.

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

you will find recipes that are over 100 years old and still among the most popular. As regards the other half of the dishes, we let our master chef play around with Swedish tastes; a little creativity, a little tradition and a lot of love. Whether you’re here for the first or the tenth time, you will always find something exciting on the menu, and you never leave Kvarnen hungry. Whether you come here for lunch, brunch or dinner, you can always be sure you will be served well-prepared, classic Swedish food. In our old beer hall, we premiere local breweries and have a large selection of beers on draft. Our bartender will create whatever you want to drink based on your preferences, and Swedish tradition features highly on our drinks menu. I love to wander around the restaurant, I love the dim and I love to watch people meeting others. To quote my colleague, Chris, who now serves at the Östgötakällaren, another Söder gem: ”I love short, fleeting meetings with people that don’t lead to anything more than them having a good time for a while”. I watch our regulars try to help the young Japanese couple sitting with their map spread out over the table. I listen to businesspeople explaining to their customers why they come to Kvarnen. I see people from all corners of both the world and Sweden, all with a common objective: to enjoy good and well-prepared food. There are many stories around Kvarnen. Not just football, literature, politics and history, but also stories and amazing events. If you’d like to hear them, I’d be pleased to tell them to you when you come in. It’s a trip through Swedish home life, as much as a gastronomic trip through time. The old and the new, the old and the young; with us, everything is harmonized in a wonderful symbiosis.

KEY TO STHLM

When you enter the restaurant, it is your first step on a gastronomic trip through time. You come into a restaurant that looks the way restaurants used to look at the turn of the last century. The atmosphere is convivial and you feel you’ve come to the right place. Kvarnen is a cultural institution. We are probably best known for Stieg Larsson’s Millennium books, but movies such as “Snabba Cash” (“Easy Money”) have been filmed here too. The singer Magnus Carlsson started out on his path in the basement of Kvarnen. He rehearsed here with his band, the Weeping Willows, and stops by even today, like many other cultural personalities. I think they come because Kvarnen is an easy place to feel at home in. Kvarnen goes hand in hand with Bajen, our favorite football team. Football is an ice-breaker, and with celebrities such as Nacka Skoglund and Kennedy it’s not hard to get a conversation going. Nacka was the first Swede to become a pro in Italy. That was back in the 50s, but a lot of Italians and those interested in football in general recognize him. Unfortunately, his time has come and gone, but we have erected a statue in his honor. Kennedy, on the other hand, is still active, not least at Kvarnen. I remember when Bajen’s supporters last had their annual meeting at Kvarnen. Kennedy had lost a bet and as a “penalty” he had to stand behind the bar and serve beers for a while. When I felt enough time had passed, I thanked him and asked him to leave the bar. “Not on your life,” answered Kennedy, “I’m not going from here before I’ve served ALL of my fans.” Yes, he still had a few hours to do, but that’s how it is at Kvarnen. Kvarnen’s chef is totally in line with history. Approximately half of the dishes are always the same: traditional home-made Swedish food. Among these dishes

R E S TA U R A N T F E M S M Å H U S

Gamla stan, The Old Town of Stockholm, is one of the largest and best preserved medieval city centers at Österlånggatan (Nygränd), near the Royal Castle. A classic Swedish restaurant. Välkommen! N YG R Ä N D 1 0 , S T O C K H O L M , + 4 6 ( 0 ) 8 1 0 8 7 7 5 , W W W. F E M S M A H U S. S E

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

By Stefan Ossmyr

Art of Making TheSwedish Dumplings

Ingredients: Potato mixture • 1 kg mealy potato • 3-4 dl of wheat flour • 1/2 tablespoon of salt • 1 teaspoon of sugar • 2 ml of ground white pepper Filling • 250 g pork belly, lightly salted • 50 g fat • 1 large yellow onion • 1 ml of ground white pepper

Cooking • 4 liters of water • 1 tablespoon of salt Serving • Lingonberry jam or uncooked, preserved lingonberries • Clarified butter

PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM / ALLEKO

Cut the pork and fat that is used for filling into small diced cubes. Peel and finely chop the onion. Fry the pork at a low to medium heat, together with the fat, until the fat has melted. Then, throw in the onions and continue browning at a low heat, until the mixture turns a good dark redbrown. Season with white pepper, and then take the pan off the burner to allow the mixture to solidify. (The colder it is, the faster this goes.) Wash the potato, and boil it with the skin still on, until it is soft. Pour out the water, and rinse with cold water. Then, peel the potato and squeeze it into a large bowl using a potato ricer. Mix in egg, flour, salt, sugar and white pepper with the mashed potato. Keep mixing the dough until it turns smooth. Place the potato dough onto a flour-covered bread board, and mix in additional flour if needed. Shape the dough into a roll, and cut it into about 16 pieces (for 4 portions). Flatten each piece on the bread board, and then measure out the solidified filling into the middle of the flattened pieces. Then, shape the flattened pieces into round balls with the filling at the center, by gathering the potato together around the filling and carefully pinching it closed. In a large saucepan, bring well-salted water to the boiling point, and then lower the temperature so that the water simmers. Carefully drop in half of the dumplings. When the dumplings have floated up to the surface, they can be left to simmer for about 3-5 more minutes. Take out the dumplings with a slotted spoon, and serve them warm with clarified butter and lingonberry jam. If desired, cut a bit of parsley for a garnish.

KEY TO STHLM

Ever since I was a little boy, kroppkakor, dumplings have been one of my favorite things to eat. The same goes for my two siblings. Our maternal grandmother Elin, who came from Östergötland near the border with Småland, would sometimes serve us the Småland version of kroppkakor when we were kids. Grandma could see our enthusiasm every time she served us these delicacies. When we grew older, and grandma missed having us around, she would try to entice us by saying that she would have kroppkakor waiting for us if we dropped by. Her plan worked just about every time! Sweden has had many variants of kroppkakor for a long time, some of them very unique to their region. For example, the Blekinge version of kroppkakor has a greyer color and less flour than the standard version, and parts of the potato are grated. In Blekinge, people often choose to use seabird or eel as the filling, instead of diced pork. Some other variants include, for example, Öland kroppkakor made only with grated potato. Among kroppkakor enthusiasts, opinion is divided about which kind tastes the best and what type of filling should be used. Many people think that the fried, lightly-salted pork and onion should be seasoned with allspice; others think that white pepper should be used instead. I definitely prefer white pepper. There are also disagreements about how fried or browned the filling should be. I prefer them fairly well-done, with a lot of lard, just as my grandmother made them.

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

By Susanne Raaf

W STHLM Nightlife

hy you shouldn’t miss out on the

IT’S NOT ALL ABOUT THE ARCHIPELAGO, FIKA AND BEAUTIFUL SCENERIES. TO EXPLORE STHLM AFTER NIGHT FALLS AND THE OFFICES CLOSE IS A MUST. HERE IS WHERE TO GO WHEN YOU’RE UP FOR A GREAT PARTY.

Berns Näckströmsgatan 8. berns.se Let the glimmering lights of magnificent chandeliers and art nouveau decorations from the 18th century enchant you at Berns. Start of the evening with an Asiatic dinner, followed by cocktails in one of the many bars. Bring out the chic and glamorous within and add extra bling bling to the large dance floor and dance the night away. This is the place if you enjoy listening to live music and an international array of DJs in an intimate and acoustically rich setting.

KEY TO STHLM

Sturecompagniet Sturegatan 4. sturecompagniet.se Sturecompagniet is the beating heart of Stureplan. Their famous concept is clubs within the club that caters to different ages, interests and preferred styles. Bring out your aces and enter V ***** the VIP concept and to play the game good is to have a stack of money. The club only seats 250 people, which makes it small and intimate. The best way to catch the summer is to visit The Wall situated at the courtyard at Sturecompagniet. Put on your best dancing shoes and get moving until dawn to the sounds of the best DJs in town.

Rose Hamngatan 2. roseclub.se Rose has steadily kept itself at the centre of STHLM nightlife with its boudoir and decadent lassez fair attitude. The audience is mixed and of different ages, but everyone has one and the same purpose to hit the dance floor the last hours of the night. Sip on a cocktail as you take in the atmosphere and the venue that’s been the chosen place of Justin Timberlake, Timberland, Jay-Z and Kanye West. This is classy clubbing at its max.

BERNS

STURECOMPAGNIET

ROSE

Café Opera Karl XII:s torg. cafeopera.se Café Opera is a well-known hot-spot among locals as well as the international crowd for its glamorous and themed nights as well as a wide range of events. This grand venue, complete with restaurant and bars guarantees some of the best nights in the city. No night is the same at Café Opera and as soon as the clock strikes 12, everything changes. After that, expect full-on glamour in tune with a mixed and beautiful party lovers. Please book a table to get the best service experience, and show up in time with your best outfit.

CAFÉ OPERA

F-12 Fredsgatan 12. terrassenf12.se When you combine magical Swedish summer nights with STHLM’s most beautiful views, great music and a fun loving crowd you have entered onto the stairs of popular F12. Party lovers between 25 to 40 years make use of the summer sun and mingle away to dance and party - whatever weekday. It’s a classy set-up and you’ll feel like you’re in Berlin or Ibiza as you groove. F12 is a very popular club in the summer, so get there on time, be dressed up for a party and come with a good spirit. You can’t go wrong on F-12.

F-12

KEY TO STHLM

F-12

A TRAVEL DESIGNER´S GUIDE TO SOFO By Sanchia Lambert Photo Sanchia Lambert SAN CHIA AT NYTO RGET 6

TRAVEL DESIGNER AND ADVISOR, SANCHIA LAMBERT, KNOWS HER WAY AROUND STHLM. SHE PERSONALLY ADVISES CLIENTS ON WHAT TO EXPERIENCE WHEN VISITING THE CAPITAL AND ENJOYS BEING A TOURIST IN HER OWN CITY. THIS COFFEE AND MATCHA LOVING EXPLORER TRAVELS THE WORLD BUT LOVES COMING HOME TO HER HUSBAND IN HER FAVORITE NEIGHBORHOOD SOFO, ONE OF THE COOLEST IN THE WORLD. THESE ARE SOME OF HER FAVORITE SPOTS.

cosmopolitan capital city of STHLM is made up of many distinctive neighborhoods spread across 14 major islands which are surrounded by freshwater lakes, parks and an archipelago. Each neighborhood unique to its own character and charm, one of them being the most refreshingly different. Say hello to the coolest, hippest and most “mysig” (coziest) of them all, SoFo. A trendy well-known neighborhood on the bustling island of Södermalm that covers a few blocks South of Folkungagatan street, hence the name SoFo. Södermalm roots stem from the hard-working class that helped build this city. Formerly a run-down working-class district for the lesser privileged in the south part of the capital since the 18th century, it has evolved into the heart of STHLM’s creative and bohemian style culture.

NYTORGET

CHRISTOFFERS BLOMMOR

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

KAFFERANG

COCTAIL

SKÅNEGATAN

KEY TO STHLM

The atmosphere on the colorful streets is less pretentious, a laid-back air of nonchalance, rebel cool and a free-spirited vibe sets the tone of this village-like neighborhood. Everything you need is here, fashion boutiques, a pharmacy, seasonal markets, vintage stores, a deli, tattoo parlors, beauty salons, book and record stores and you are never short of a good spot to eat or drink. Majority of its inhabitants today are younger professionals and families; a creative elite of artists, musicians, architects or media folks, who also love the simplicities of laid-back life. So, it is not unusual to see famous International and local Swedish artists or designers walk the streets of SoFo, picking up a coffee, shopping groceries at Urban Deli or simply hanging on the grass, feeling right at home. Famous film star, Greta Garbo, was born and raised here in 1905 and the star-engraved Greta Garbo Torg (square) is a tribute to her life. The name SoFo was created by a group of three young friends; Per Holm, Fredrik Glejpner and Henrik Borggren back in the 1990’s, when cafés were few and small stores found it hard to survive in the fast-growing commercial world. SoFo is reminiscent of the popular SoHo (South of Houston street) in New York (there’s one in London too). One of the friends returned from a trip to New York and the inspiration to rebrand the charm of the area they love so much was born. It was the perfect “fit” and little did they know that it would become so popular, catapulting the status to a fast favorite, so they made sure they patented the name. Many articles have been written about SoFo, from the New York Times (often compared to Williamsburg in New York City), Culture Trip and CNN to name a few. In 2014, Vogue, ranked SoFo third, as one of the coolest neighborhoods in the World. Much of the magic can be found on its most wellknown streets like, Bondegatan, Skånegatan, Åsögatan and Nytorget, the latter being the social heart of SoFo. Nytorget is a popular square and park hang out to relax, people watch, simply enjoy life and the sun. One side of the square is an Instagram worthy street,

A TRAVEL DESIGNER´S GUIDE TO SOFO NYTORGET 6

KEY TO STHLM

COCTAIL

SOFIAGATAN

lined with beautifully preserved 18th century wooden buildings, the rest, surrounded by tons of restaurants, cafés and stores. Summertime, the streets are lined with flowers, closed off to traffic and the whole ‘village’ turns into a chic market. A personal favorite street is the pedestrian/bicycle part of Södermannagatan, architecturally lined with buildings from different eras on each side of the street. Home to stores like Grandpa a cool concept store for design, fashion from local Swedish designers like Rodebjer, Dagmar and more. Step into a colorful world at Coctail and pick up a coffee or coconut water at Il Caffé, sit on a bench in the street or pick up flowers or monstrera for a friend at Christoffers Blommor flower shop next door.

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE By Sanchia Lambert

Insta SPOTS

"Some of the best souvenirs of a trip are photos" WHETHER YOU ARE DOING IT FOR YOURSELF OR “DOING IT FOR THE GRAM”, THIS WAY WE GET TO RELIVE THE MEMORIES AGAIN AND AGAIN. THEN THERE ARE SOME OF US WHO HAVE FALLEN INTO THE SELF-LOVING SPELL, A BLENDED BOOST OF SELF-CONFIDENCE TOPPED WITH ICONIC WANDERLUST BACKGROUNDS THAT SCREAM, “I WAS HERE!”. STHLM is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe and in my opinion, the most beautiful in Scandinavia. Filled with so much history and endless picture opportunities. As a constant tourist in my own city, I have compiled a list of instagrammable selfie worthy spots that are safe, slightly less touristy and picture perfect in all seasons. Monteliusvägen This viewpoint is a hidden gem that opens up to incredibly beautiful views over the city from high above. Monteliusvägen is a quaint 500-meter-long walking path that follows along the edge of Södermalm. Lined with charming old-style houses and contrasting Södermalm architecture on one side and on the other side, stunning views over Lake Mälaren, the iconic City Hall, Riddarholmen and Gamla Stan.

Gamla Stan In some ways this may be slightly cliché according to some, but Gamla Stan, also known as the Old Town, never gets old. It is however very hard to choose just one spot on the most historical island in the city, as it is made up of so many narrow winding roads, alleys and beautiful squares, where nearly every corner is a selfie spot. My favorite spots here are, Stortorget, Järntorget or the road leading up to it Norra Bankogränd, Prästgatan, Gåsgränd, Tyska Brinken and Storkyrkobrinken.

KEY TO STHLM

Blå Porten, Djurgården A favorite in the city is the Royal Island of Djurgården and one cannot miss the magical royal blue and gold gates that have stood the test of time. Sweden’s national colors are symbolized here. Beyond these gates is a pleasure and leisure park open for the public to enjoy nature, art, architecture or stop for a coffee or a bite to eat in a café, restaurant or one of many picnic spots. Through the “Blå Porten” gates, built in the 1840’s, pathways lead to palaces and gardens and a cultural playground to relax, bike, walk and simply enjoy life.

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

By Dan Paech

Classic Sights A RUNNING TOUR BY

KEY TO STHLM

RUN WITH ME STOCKHOLM

For people visiting STHLM who are interested in running, a running tour provides the perfect cross-over between sightseeing and a local running experience. Run With Me STHLM offers three set tours, the Classic Sights Tour, Södermalm Hipster Trail, and Leafy Djurgården Tour, as well as other customised runs and training sessions. The company began offering guided tours in STHLM in 2015, but has since grown into a broader network of people, and now connects travellers visiting Singapore, Oslo, Johannesburg and Zurich to local runners living in those cities, too. In STHLM, the Run With Me team is led by founder Dan Paech, with four other local runners also leading tourists on runs around the city. They aim to make a local running experience more accessible for people visiting STHLM, and to teach people about the culture and history of STHLM and Sweden while they enjoy a run. The Run With Me guides accommodate any pace, and have runs ranging from 6.5 to 10 kilometres. The majority of runners opt for the Classic Sights tour, which is a 6.5 km run that starts and finishes in STHLM’s Old Town, Gamla Stan. The run takes you on a beautiful loop which first heads towards the island Riddarholmen for a great view of Lake Mälaren and the Stockholm City Hall. Following this, you’ll be led through Norrmalm, past the Parliament and the Kings Garden, a lovely open space famous for its cherry blossom trees which flourish in the spring. The tour then heads out to Skeppsholmen, one of STHLM’s central islands less accessible by public transport. Here you are offered a short cross training session and some stair running, to make sure you feel like you had a good workout! You’ll also run out to Kastellholmen on the Classic Sights Tour, a small and less frequented location with fantastic views of Djurgården and across the Baltic Sea. The tour then goes back around Skeppsholmen, before you’ll be heading past the Royal Palace, and back into the Old Town again. Along the way, I found myself

PHOTO: ERIK LINDVALL

chatting to the guide, hearing informal stories about what it’s like to live in STHLM. For me these stories, as well as the tips on where to go for my post run carbohydrate-loading, are just as important as which King Gustav ruled Sweden in which era. For any type of runner, a running tour with Run With Me is a unique opportunity to combine sightseeing with exercise. I had a great time running around STHLM and would highly recommend the Classic Sights Tour. It was a great opportunity to see many of STHLM’s highlights in an hour, before most other people were even out of bed.

PHOTO: RUN WITH ME

"A great opportunity to see many of STHLMâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highlights before most

KEY TO STHLM

other people are even out of bed"

PHOTO: ERIK LINDVALL

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

By Lotta Zachrisson Photo SkiStar

Hammarbybacken

STHLM IS BEST KNOWN TO VISITORS AS A SUMMER CITY, BUT IF YOU COME IN THE DEAD OF WINTER THERE IS ONE UNIQUE EXPERIENCE THAT COULD BE THE HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR STAY

KEY TO STHLM

– A SKI SLOPE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CITY.

“Hammarbybacken” is an artificial hill that became a ski resort in 1990, but its alpine history goes much further back. In 1951 the slope was used for national ski jumping competitions. At the time the high point of the hill was 55 meters above sea level, but the city had plans to change this. Whenever there was big construction going on nearby (like building “the Globe” arena), the rubble from the site was added to the top. It was not only to get rid of construction debris, but also to create an interesting hill top for people to regard as one would

a sculpture, as well as use for recreation. In 2006 Skistar took over the management of the resort, and in 2007 the last rubble was added to make the hill its current 93.5 meters. Still small by Swedish standards, you can't beat the location, and Hammarbybacken has become immensely popular with its 5 ski runs, the longest being 750 meters. In 2016 the first World Cup competition was held here and it's become a yearly tradition, with the 4th edition planned for February 19th 2019.

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

Style OUTDOOR By Joachim Hillberg

Gloves, Hestra, Fält Guide Glove Durable gloves made of whole leather, with removable lining of wool terry cloth/wool pile. SEK: 1,100. hestragloves.com

Down jacket, Fjällräven/ Acne Expedition Print M A/F An oversized interpretation of the well-known down jacket from 1974, with artificial fur and 100% traceable, ethically-produced down. SEK 11,000. fjallraven.se

First-aid kit, Tasmanian Tiger, FirstAid Complete A first aid kit for all kinds of outdoor activities. Perfect to take with you in the car, wherever you are going! SEK 695. terrang.se

Knife, Morakniv, Garberg Multi-Mount A high-quality knife, available at a great SEK 939. morakniv.se

Tent, Hillberg, Nammatj 2 Gt These robust, four-season, all-around tents are quick and easy to set up, and can be quickly moved as well; yet, they are still both stronger and lighter than any other tent in this class. SEK 10,500. hilleberg.com Knife, Morakniv, Eldris Neck knife A knife that comes in handy all the time when you are out hiking. The Paracord cord makes it possible to hang the knife around your neck. SEK 435. morakniv.se

Wooden cup, John A-Hörnell, Kåsa Snobbig Beautifully carved cup that only gets more beautiful over time. SEK 179. naturkompaniet.se

Boots, Lundhags, Vandra High W Stable Swedish hiking boots without membrane, but with full-grain leather in the shaft. SEK 3,399. lundhags.se Backpack, Fjällräven Kajka 75 Comfortable, durable 75L backpack, full of features. An excellent backpack for longer trips. SEK 3,699. naturkompaniet.se

Satellite communication unit, Garmin inReach SE+ Built to keep you going – whatever environment you may find yourself in. SEK 4,499. activeoutfit.se

KEY TO STHLM

Spork, LightMyFire This is a product for those of you who already seem to have everything – also works great as a gift. Made of titanium! SEK 179. lightmyfire.com

By Joachim Hillberg Photo Johan Pontén

earbyA Guide to Tranquility

THE NATURE AREAS AND PARKS OF STHLM ARE OPEN AND ACCESSIBLE TO ANYONE WHO WANTS TO GET OUTDOORS. THANKS TO ALL THE GREEN SPACES, PARKS AND WATER, IT IS SOMETIMES CALLED THE ‘BLUE AND GREEN CITY’. WHEREVER YOU ARE IN THE CITY, YOU ARE ALWAYS CLOSE TO NATURE. WE HAVE CHOSEN FIVE DIFFERENT NATURE RESERVES OUTSIDE STHLM CITY, WHERE YOU CAN EXPERIENCE A COMBINATION OF TRANQUILITY, CALM AND GREEN EXPERIENCES WITH THE OPTION TO JUST BE. A NATURE RESERVE IS CREATED FOR THE PRESERVATION OF IMPORTANT ENVIRONMENTS, FLORA OR FAUNA, WHICH MAKES IT POSSIBLE FOR YOU YO EXPERIENCE COMPLETELY UNSPOILED NATURE. BUT IT ALSO MEANS THAT YOU HAVE TO BE EXTREMELY

KEY TO STHLM

CAREFUL WHEN YOU VISIT THERE.

Grimsta nature reserve

Grimsta nature reserve offers experiences in nature with a lot of variety. Beautiful forested, rolling hills, the small lake and magnificent views over Mälaren. Grimsta woodlands has many opportunities for peaceful walks along Mälarstranden and up in the pine forest hills. The open fields beckon for a picnic or other activities. For runners, there are lit running trails and an outdoor gym. The Kanaan garden café is open all year round, and both Maltesholm pool and at Kanaan pool have barbecue areas.promenader längs Mälarstranden och uppe på höjderna i hällmarksskogen. De öppna ängsmarkerna inbjuder till picknick eller andra aktiviteter. För joggaren finns upplysta motionsspår och utegym. Kanaans trädgårdscafé är öppet året runt och vid Maltesholmsbadet och vid Kanaanbadet finns det grillplatser.

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

Nacka nature reserve

Here you can experience deciduous forest, mossy pine forests, rocky outcrops and water views. The Nacka reserve offers a wide variation. It is possible to find very quiet spots even if the sounds of the city are almost always present in the proximity of Nacka village. Wind direction, weather and seasons clearly have an effect on how quiet the places are. The sounds of nature itself are part of the peaceful experience here. In the Nacka reserve, you will also find Hellasgården, which is one of the most popular destinations for an excursions in STHLM all year round, not least in winter. Here, you can do an overnight trip, take a Swedish coffee break in Storstugan while at the same time, enjoying nature, exercising and relaxing. Here, you will find cycling trails, hiking trails, running tracks and a sandy, swimming beach and a swimming pier. Here, you also have the option of playing golf, football, boules, beach volleyball, fishing, playing tennis, paddling and taking part in a spin class or yoga session. In winter, there is ice skating, several ski runs and bathing in ice holes. It is very popular here tohave a typical sauna at Källtorpssjön after hiking or ice skating.

GRIMSTA NATURE RESERVE

KEY TO STHLM

NACKA NATURE RESERVE

Hansta nature reserve

KEY TO STHLM

HANSTA NATURE RESERVE

Hansta nature reserve offers many pleasant experiences in nature. The oak and hazelnut groves are amazing, while at the same time a large part of the forest has a real primeval feeling to it. It is possible to find many peaceful spots here. You can take yourself out onto any of the tracks in the reserve. They are small, and uneven with stones and roots with beautiful views over meadows or stop for a beautiful glimpse of oak trees. Hansta nature reserve is a beautiful and diverse nature reserve and farmland that forms part of JĂ¤rvafĂ¤ltet. Here you can see deer, hares and foxes, and if you are lucky, you may even see a moose. Hansta offers opportunities for walking, skiing or cycling.

CULTURE SHOPPING FASHION DESIGN TASTE LIFESTYLE NIGHTLIFE

Flaten nature reserve

Experience woodland wilderness in the Flaten nature reserve. Find peace and quiet at the lake edge or increase your pulse rate on the forest loops and outdoor gym. The Flaten nature reserve extends from Skubba in the south to Orhem in the north and beckons with a wide variety of experiences in nature close to the city. There are pleasant walking trails around Flaten lake and Drevviken, that will take you through hills and meadows with abundant herbs, up through old forests to wards pine forests with views over the lakes.

A guide to tranquility Power Off. Turn off your telephone and take a break from the obligations, plans and anxiety. Prioritize the moment. Prioritize the time for your walk. The great balance of a visit to nature will come when you are completely and fully present. Walk slowly. When you walk a little more slowly, your attention will switch from where you are going to step to the place you are in.

Listen. We need breaks from thinking. Focusing on the nature tat surrounds you and listening can make your thoughts quieten for a moment. Smell and feel. Nature has its distinct scents that vary by season and weather conditions. Smell the leaves, grass and moss. The wind may feel cold, warm, gentle or biting. But also feel the texture of the rigid bark and the soft moss.

There are guides to tranquility for eleven of the existing and future nature and cultural reserves in STHLM. You can find more information and contact details here: www.stockholm.se/guidetilltystnaden You can also check on Google maps and search for â&#x20AC;&#x153;Guide to Tranquilityâ&#x20AC;? to find a place near you.

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FLATEN NATURE RESERVE

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PHOTO: RICHVINTAGE / ISTOCKPHOTO

Travel with Kids

Big cities might not always seem tempting when traveling with children. But STHLM in the summer is an easy city to get around and enjoy with the kids in tow. Lots of places are well adapted, there is always a lift down to the metro, and you can take prams onto the bus for free. Some of the big museums have spaces where you can eat packed lunches, take a breather or breastfeed. And don’t forget all of the big, airy parks, with their many playgrounds. Here are some tips on fun things to do with kids.

THE CIRCUSRESTAURANT. PHOTO: SIMON CEDERQVIST

Junibacken

PHOTO: ULF HUETT

On the island of Djurgården, almost right after the Djurgården Bridge, there is a whole little world with a well-made and impressive interior that will make just about any adult long for their childhood. The entrance fee includes a trip on the story train. An exciting, beautiful and sometimes slightly creepy journey through Astrid Lindgren’s many stories that you simply won’t want to miss! junibacken.se

PHOTO: ANNA GERDÉN

Museum of Science & Technology

The Museum of Science & Technology is a good spot for both younger and older children. You don’t need to be a nerd to think this museum is cool. For the older kids, there are tricky and thought-provoking exhibitions that even adults will want to get involved with, while younger kids tend to enjoy the interactive Teknoleket exhibition. There is so much to look at, to feel and to press. tekniskamuseet.se

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Bounce

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to be a character in a video game? At Bounce, you can climb into a colorful world of adventure and jump up as high as the sky. This gigantic bouncy castle can be found just south of STHLM at Kungens Kurva, close to IKEA. It offers various different sections with activities such as trampolining, free jumping, parkour and obstacle courses. A great way to tire out the little ones before bedtime! bounceinc.se

PHOTO: MONSTRUM, DENMARK

Kristinebergs Slott

In a place where the street lights appear somewhat more unusual, as if they have grown forth from the ground, you will find what is perhaps the nicest park in all of STHLM – it’s not huge, but well designed with soft play areas and good lighting. Winding slides, large owls, spinning mushrooms and hollow beetles will charge your children’s imagination. Not right in the center, but worth travelling out to and conveniently located close to a metro stop. Nordenflychtsvägen, Kungsholmen

Tantolunden

Large green space in Södermalm, perfect for running free and enjoying a great park with climbing frame, swings, soccer pitch, paddling pool, cafeteria and mini golf. If you want to go on an exciting adventure, there are a number of short paths which lead up to the top of the hill – a great place to catch your breath and enjoy some fantastic views before heading back down. Zinkens Väg, Södermalm

PHOTO: PETRA HELLBERG

Kulturhuset

House of Culture

Right in the middle of STHLM lies the House of Culture. In addition to art, music, literature and theatre for adults, there is also a special space for children, with activities happening every day. You can pop in for an hour to rest a little and read some books, or spend an entire day taking part in the various activities, such as storytelling and Friday dancing. kulturhuset.se

A green oasis within the green oasis of Djurgården. There is plenty of space to stretch your legs and play games here, with activities on offer all year round. You can easily spend an entire day here. There is everything for all the family – look for animals in the animal park, meet a range of cute little critters in Lill-Skansen, visit the glassworks and peek inside all of the various historical buildings. skansen.se

PHOTO: CARINA BERG

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Skansen

PHOTO: SKANSEN

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By Lotta Zachrisson Photo Stefan Svensson

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The SMS Life Savers

One dull morning ten years ago, Leif Svensson, physician and professor of heart diseases, was sitting on the bus on his way to work. The bus was waiting at a bus stop for longer than usual, but it was only later that Svensson found out that a woman had suffered a cardiac arrest just outside, and died. Between 6,000 and 10,000 persons die from cardiac arrest in Sweden every year. No more than 11 percent of those who have a cardiac arrest survive. Svensson and his research colleague started to think that a lot of lives could be saved if only all people with first-aid skills could be reached when they are really needed. Smartphones with positioning had just appeared on the market, which made it possible to know a given person’s current location. They came up with the idea of sending an SMS to CPR-qualified people who happen to be near a sufferer, in the hope of enabling more people to be given cardiopulmonary resuscitation. In 2010, the SMS Life Savers started as a project at the Karolinska Institute, and someone who was involved from the start was the project leader, now operations manager, David Fredman. He calculated that 200,000 CPR courses are held in Sweden every year. “But the problem is that these people do not use their skills when they’re needed, because they’re on the ground floor when somebody has a cardiac arrest on the first floor, without them knowing anything about it. The system we currently have is that people who can and want to help out create a profile and report that they are able to respond to an emergency if somebody has a cardiac arrest,” says Fredman. In order to activate the system, the SMS Life Savers cooperate with the Swedish emergency services. When somebody calls in to report a cardiac arrest, they send a message with the details of the location, which reaches the users who are in the vicinity. They can choose to respond to the emergency and quickly make their way there to start cardiopulmonary resuscitation until the ambulance staff arrive. There are no clear figures confirming how many people have survived thanks to the SMS Life Savers, but after five years the research project was able to publish data, showing that when voluntary life savers were alerted by SMS, the number of CPRs carried out increased by 30 percent. For those who are given CPR, the chance of surviving increases by 2-3 times. “We can’t save everyone, but we can increase the chances for many,” says David Fredman.

The odds are even better for those who are assisted by a defibrillator, which is why the SMS Life Savers have recently linked up their system to the register of where all defibrillators are located in Sweden. Since 2018, persons responding to an emergency have been given information on where the nearest defibrillator is, and have been requested to take it along. Figures show that if one is linked up within three minutes, 70 percent of lives can be saved. One of the big challenges now is to make more people aware of the SMS Life Savers; decision makers, life savers as well as the public at large. David Fredman says that the app currently has 27,000 active profiles throughout Sweden, and that the project, which at first was only limited to STHLM County, has started to be used in more locations around the country. Denmark too has shown an interest. “We’ve already done a lot, but we can become even better,” says Fredman.

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