Sweden Selected summer 2016 by Savor Media

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SWEDEN SELECTED

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FASHION • CUISINE • CULTURE • DESIGN • TRAVEL • LIFESTYLE • SHOPPING

– HANDMADE HAPPINESS –

NybrogataN 9, Stockholm, 08-679 90 20 SaNdbergSwedeN.com

CORALINA haNdmade baNgleS IN 18k gold aNd dIamoNdS

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EDITOR IN CHIEF STEFAN OSSMYR COVER PHOTO MARIA SWÄRD

CONCEPT SAVOR MEDIA AB

ISBN: 978-91-983152-0-2 SAVOR MEDIA AB

EDITOR / CREATIVE DIRECTOR SANCHIA LAMBERT ART DIRECTOR / GRAPHIC DESIGNER CARINA BERG

FOLLOW MARIA'S TRAVEL IMAGES AT: MARIA_GLOBETROTTER ON FLICKR WWW.MARIASWARD.COM FACEBOOK.COM/MARIA.SWARD

EDITORIAL IVAN MATHIAS PETERSSON KENNETH LAGSTRÖM BIRGITTA OSSMYR HENRIK MOBERGER SANCHIA LAMBERT GABRIEL KOTOWSKI CARINA BERG ERIK A “ANQI” JEPPSSON

NYBROKAJEN 3 111 48 STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN INFO@SAVORMEDIA.SE WWW.SWEDENSELECTED.SE WWW.SAVORMEDIA.SE + 46 (0)8 717 95 40

TRANSLATION TRANSVOICE HEAD OF SALES BIRGITTA OSSMYR

PRINT UNIPRINT AS, ESTONIA

About Sweden Selected: Opinions expressed by individual writers do not necessarily reflect the views of the editorial staff. The editorial staff assumes no responsibility or liability for omissions or other inaccuracies in submitted or unsolicited material, or for typographical or other errors outside the editor's specific area of responsibility.

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CONTENTS 80

WELCOME TO SWEDEN 10 CONTRIBUTORS 12

TASTE: RESTAURANG NOOK 55

EDITOR´S LETTER 15

ROYAL EVENTS 16

CANOLA OIL 58 COOL DESIGN 64

EDITOR’S CHOICE 20 INTERVIEW: URBAN EARS 22

STYLE: 3 BRANDS NOT TO MISS 47

STAY: THE TREE HOTEL 68

TASTE: AGNES 77

TRAVEL: GOTLAND 28

LEGEND: INGMAR BERGMAN 80

TRAVEL GUIDE: STOCKHOLM 34

BICYCLING IN STOCKHOLM 84

INTERVIEW: HOUSE OF ENGELBERT 38

STAY: HAYMARKET 42

CULTURE CALENDAR 88 EXPLORE: MUSEUMS 91

Favourites from Sweden’s largest department store. Drop by for the best of Swedish and international design, fashion, beauty and home ware. Obtain a taxfree discount of up to 19% on merchandise from the entire store at the cashier of your choice.

Åhléns City Stockholm, Klarabergsgatan 50. Open weekdays 10–9, Saturday 10–7, Sunday 11–7

Tourist Information on 3rd floor

Welcome to Sweden

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Stockholm makes me happy Summer stages its grand entrance this May afternoon as the sun caresses the windows of my office and the venerable white boats dazzle the waters of the archipelago. The lines of Pugh Rogefeldt’s pop song run giddily through my head, “Stockholm, you are my city, I see you everywhere, I love your simple beauty, You always make me happy.”

Stockholm is making me happy for so many reasons this year. Little princes are being baptized left and right, the Eurovision Finals are always a thrill, and the air is ringing with concerts. As usual, we can look forward to major athletic events, marathons and sailing races. Museums are constantly adding to their collections and exhibits, art galleries are a never-ending source of new marvels. No matter what your tastes and whenever you come to see us, don’t forget to explore www.savor-touristinformation.com for information and suggestions. We’ll point you to your own personal heaven(s). One sure way to get the most out of your stay is to purchase a Stockholm Pass from our website or an authorized Savor Tourist Information agency (you might want to stop by the second floor of Åhlens department store in the heart of downtown). The purpose of this fresh issue of Sweden Selected is to acquaint you with the best our city and country have to offer. You won’t want to miss the article about Gotland, a world of its own in the little galaxy we call Sweden. Here’s to an enjoyable reading experience and a rewarding visit to our corner of the universe.

Stefan Ossmyr EDITOR IN CHIEF

Smilla, Valter AND Stefan Ossmyr outside the office at Nybrokajen in Stockholm.

FOLLOW SAVOR MEDIA: @savormedia on Facebook and @savortouristinformation on Instagram

LITE-CUBE DLX & LITE DLX FIRST CLASS ELEGANCE

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CONTRIBUTORS IVAN MATHIAS PETERSSON Actor, director and writer Ivan Mathias Petersson was educated in Sweden and France. The grandson of Russian immigrants, he is fluent in the language and frequently travels to the country of his forbears. He has worked with many Russian actors, including Alexander Domogarov. Most recently he co-directed Mikhail Bulgakov’s “The Master and Margarita” at the Fundamental Theater School in Stockholm.

HENRIK MOBERGER A ‘Bon Vivant’ at heart, Henrik has a long career within journalism and has worked with some incredible clients such as his main client; Volvo, as a journalist and PR officer for the company. A traveler’s spirit, he has explored many countries around the globe with his family and still does today with his ‘favourite girl’; his wife of many years. He currently freelances as a journalist in two places he is lucky to call home; Sweden and France. He loves writing about travel, wildlife and nature, is passionate about wine and food, exploring mountain trails and enjoys portraits of interesting people.

Kenneth has long experience in the restaurant industry. He has been an executive at Burger King, McDonald's, Pizza Hut and other Swedish chains. These days he is an independent consultant to many leading Stockholm restaurateurs at both the management and executive level. He knows all there is to know about the Swedish market. Look for Kenneth in June, July or August and you're likely to find him at one of the city's inviting outdoor cafes. And his family won't be far behind. Unless, of course, he has snuck off to his fishing boat on Lake Mälaren. Rarely does he come home without a sizeable catch or two. More importantly, he takes the opportunity to meditate, away from the hustle and bustle of city life. His creativity and productivity the rest of the week are reinvigorated as well.

GABRIEL KOTOWSKI –Graphic Designer at Savor Media

Carefree jack-of-all-trades, graphic designer, bicycle messenger, journalist, production manager. Soon to be father, amateur cyclist, not bad when in shape. Looking to illustrate big arty books and brochures. Fondest fantasy is to design furniture. Sings the praises of time rather than money and suggests that everyone do their hollow body exercises once a day.

PHOTO - STEFAN SVENSSON

– Independent Food & Beverage Professional

PHOTO - ROGER STENBERG

KENNETH LAGSTRÖM

DAY CRUISE IN THE ARCHIPELAGO Why not enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Swedish archipelago by slipping away for an 11-hour break? During the day-cruise to Mariehamn in Åland you will get to travel on two of our ships within 11 hours. First up is Baltic Princess which departs Stockholm at 07.10 in the morning where you can enjoy a fantastic breakfast with a lovely view. In Mariehamn you will switch over to Silja Galaxy. If breakfast isn’t your thing, why not try the brunch onboard Silja Galaxy in the Happy Lobster restaurant? You will be back in Stockholm at 18.15- what a great way to take a mini break from the city!

Day cruise from SEK 20 /person Includes: 11-hour cruise, deck seating.

Day cruise + breakfast from SEK 98 /person Includes: 11-hour cruise, breakfast, deck seating.

Book at silja.se/daycruise | +46 (8) 22 21 40

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SANCHIA L AMBERT EDITOR / CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOLLOW ME: @sanchialambert on Instagram FOLLOW SWEDEN SELECTED: @swedenselected on Instagram and Facebook

PHOTO - ELISABETH EDÉN/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

Editor's letter

My favorite time of the year is here. There is a sense of romance in the air, and Stockholm is overwhelmingly beautiful. Late midsummer nights, sunsets, gorgeous landscapes, long walks. Flowing fashion, gardens to explore, island hopping and fragrant blossoms, so many great cultural events, the list goes on and on. So we took this opportunity for a special edition, a deeper focus on Sweden’s mother city, Stockholm. Highlighting many favorites of all genres, that are slightly off the beaten track. See a few of our hotspots in the Travel Guide and easy ways to explore the rest of Sweden from accessible Stockholm. Escape to the north, east and south of Sweden. Delve into two gorgeous luxury homesaway-from-home. We travel up north to a personal favorite of mine, the remote Tree Hotel and Stockholm’s latest cool city hotel. We island hop over to the biggest island in Sweden, (because, when in Sweden?) the incomparable island of Gotland. Stockholm is undoubtedly a leader and pioneer in innovation, design and technology and we’re get to have an inspirational chat with uber cool creative, Oscar Axhede of Urban Ears. It’s been a big and busy year for the Swedish Royal Family, who are a great part of tourism and travel to our country, in so many ways. Lots to celebrate and rejoice about – read more in our Royal Events for all the latest. On the fashion front, we shine a spotlight on national and international brands, which are simply hard to resist. Three of the best brands you should not miss out on, and also French fashion house Chanel, has finally graced our shores this year. So many worthy, amazing events this season – visit Yayoi Kusama’s superb international exhibition at the Moderna Museum. We honor one of the greatest movie directors of all time, multi-award winning Swedish director director Ingmar Bergman in a great article by Ivan Matthias Petterson. For the ultimate in Swedish luxury jewelry and gifts, step into the world of Engelbert, whose designs I am in love with. More in our interview with power woman, expert and CEO president Johanna Pietsch. Indulge in our divine dining options, we have a few good ones you need to try and don’t miss our article on the wonders of canola oil. Equally great are the contrasting adventures of cycling in Stockholm, because no matter what you do, Stockholm is here to be enjoyed, and you can do so guilty free because there is so much to explore by being active. So indulge and enjoy this special issue of our gorgeous global and versatile capital, Stockholm. I am.

Don’t miss our article about the wonders of canola oil.

PHOTO - DAVID SIMS/ACNESTUDIOS

Quality guaranteed by Copenhagen Amber Museum COPENHAGEN

STOCKHOLM

BEIJING

House of Amber, Birger Jarlsgatan 22, Stockholm houseofamber.com SHANGHAI

HONG

KONG

MACAU

SEOUL

TOKYO

DUBAI

HELSINKI

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PHOTO - ERIKA GERDEMARK©KUNGAHUSET.SE

PHOTO - PRINCE CARL PHILIP©KUNGAHUSET.SE

ROYAL EVENTS

H.R.H Prince Carl Philip, H.R.H Princess Sofia and H.R.H. Prince Alexander.

The royal family keeps growing...

t's been a busy time for the Swedish royal family. Just a few days before the King's 70th birthday, which was April 30, the newest member of the Sweden’s royal family was born. Prince Carl Philip and Princess Sofia had a son. His name is Alexander Erik Bertil Hubertus and he was born on April 19, 2016. He is number five in the order of succession to the Swedish throne after his father and before his aunt Princess Madeleine. His title is His Royal Highness Alexander, Prince of Sweden, Duke of Södermanland. The prince shares the name of Erik with his grandfather, Erik

Hellqvist and many previous Swedish kings. Only a few weeks earlier, on March 2, 2016, Crown Princess Victoria and Prince Daniel had their second child, a little prince by the name of Prince Oscar Carl Olof. His title is His Royal Highness Prince Oscar of Sweden, Duke of Scania. The name of Oscar has been used previously in the family, including Oscar I, King Oscar II and Prince Oscar Bernadotte. He received the name of Carl after his grandfather, King Carl XVI Gustaf. The name Olof came from Prince Oscar's grandfather Olle Westling, and Prince Daniel, whose middle

name is Olof. Prince Oscar is the younger brother of Princess Estelle and number three in line to the Swedish throne, after his sister and before Prince Carl Philip. According to sources at the castle, Prince Oscar is a cute little baby who resembles his grandfather. How did the King's birthday go? It was celebrated from early morning to late evening with a big party and many members of international royalty and other guests. After the Te Deum service in the Royal Chapel, the Royal Guards waited in the Royal Palace's outer

H.R.H. Crown Princess Victoria and H.R.H Prince Oscar.

PHOTO - KATE GABOR©KUNGAHUSET.SE

PHOTO - MATTIAS EDWAL©KUNGAHUSET.SE

H.R.H. Princess Madeleine, Mr Christopher O’Neil. H.R.H. and H.R.H. Princess Leonore at Prince Nicolas christening in Drottningholm Palace Chapel, October 11, 2015.

H.M. King Carl XVI Gustaf, 70th birthday celebration. Royal Couple with honored guests at the Royal Palace

courtyard for the changing of the guard. The Army Band ended with the classic "Dancing Queen," which Abba played at the King and Queen's wedding in 1976. People clapped their hands and stomped their feet. At 12 o'clock, the salute was fired and the Royal Couple left with the motorcade. At Norrbro, the tribute of a 1,500-member choir led by Caroline af Ugglas awaited them. There on the Lejonbacken Palace balcony, the 2-month-old Prince Oscar made his official debut. For obvious reasons, his cousin, Prince Alexander, a mere ten days old, did not participate. Lunch was served at City Hall, followed by a reception for the Parliament, Government and governors. The celebration ended with a banquet at the Royal Palace for invited guests.

PHOTO - KATE GABOR©KUNGAHUSET.SE

PHOTO - KUNGAHUSET.SE

H.M. King Carl XVI Gustaf and H. M. Queen Silvia Choral singing at Lejonbacken, April 30, 2016

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BY SANCHIA LAMBERT

editor's CHOICE FOLLOW ME: @sanchialambert on Instagram FOLLOW SWEDEN SELECTED: @swedenselected on Instagram and Facebook

This selection of choices is inspired by quality and design. I’ve selected a few refreshing favorites: from Swedish couture royalty to internationally renowned artists to basic Swedish products Alicia Vikander can’t live without (nor I). Indulge.

CHANEL

Luxury French fashion house, Chanel, continues to soar and has finally arrived in the Nordics, choosing fashion capital Stockholm as home for its first store in Northern Europe. The 170 square meter flagship store is located right in the heart of the luxury fashion district. I love the classic Chanel esthetic, so I, and Sweden am beyond pleased. chanel.com

APOTEKET

LARS WALLIN COUTURE

Sweden’s Lars Wallin is a well-renowned designer of both couture and exclusive fashion. His jewelry, wedding collections and dining lace cannot not be overlooked. Lars is the epitome of Swedish couture and puts every effort in creating a unique garment with exquisite attention to detail for royalty, celebrities, artists and more. If you really want a great couture piece, a personal visit for consultation with Lars Wallin is highly worth the experience for a timeless piece. larswallin.com

Regardless of the outfit or the occasion, red carpet or not, everyone needs a good lip balm. Sweden’s own, Alicia Vikander swears by it in an interview with Allure magazine about her favorite beauty products and it only costs 40 kronor at the local pharmacy. Originally developed for the Swedish military, it has become a beauty staple for all and everything, so pure it’s even edible. Incredible, I know. apoteket.se

APPLE WATCH

I never knew I’d like it that much until I saw it on my wrist. Now I want one. It’s stylish, smart and interchangeable, bands and faces to match your fashion mood of the day. To be able to custom your accessory to your personal style is worth spending on. The best form of fashion and tech in a nutshell. When purchasing an Apple Watch like any other Apple product, you purchase a lifestyle. apple.com

ENGELBERT STOCKHOLM

I love a good statement piece, but this piece is the ultimate. The Absolutely Knot ring is beautifully designed in 5.40 cts of brilliant cut diamonds and 18k white gold. Consider this the only accessory you will ever need. Stunning from every angle, this beauty is a timeless and worthy investment. engelbertstockholm.com

MODERN MUSEUM & ARKDES

A visit to Stockholm’s Modern Museum of Art and neighboring Center of Architecture and Design is a must. Internationally renowned Japanese artist since the 1950’s, Yayoi Kusama and her “In Infinity” will open your world to her fantastic vision of colour and magic. Apparently her first comprehensive exhibition which features her interest in fashion and design. I might visit every day. Dates: June 11 to September 11, 2016 modernamuseet.se arkdes.se

ROYAL SWEDISH OPERA

This unique and stunningly beautiful rendition of A Midsummer Night’s Dream is back by popular demand. Created through the vision of acclaimed Swedish choreographer, Alexander Ekman. Ekman collaborates this time with New York-based Swedish composer Mikael Karlsson and features artist Anna von Hausswolf. An all-round beautiful performance of love and lust, dance and music with a cast of over 40 dancers is a work of art. I can’t wait. Dates: September 7-26, 2016 operan.se

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URBANEARS keeping an ear to the ground One of the world's most thought thoughts is probably "Why didn't I think of that?!" It is unfailingly triggered when we see a really good idea and a mixed feeling of admiration and envy is evoked.

This is exactly the case with the headphone brand Urbanears. Their business idea, to make stylish and high-quality headphones is by no means unique, but the art is to discover where there is a need and to then time things correctly. Oscar Axhede and the rest of the gang behind Urbanears got things on track during a design collaboration with a cell phone manufacturer. During the collaboration they realized that the market was completely devoid of choice for someone who wants to have a pair of decent looking headphones for their cell phone. â&#x20AC;?That was 2008. At the time the majority of headphones were made of black plastic or fake chrome. They looked appallingâ&#x20AC;?, says Oscar. It was a legacy from the time when engineers steered the development of the cell phone. The technology improved at lightning speed but

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to explore the intersection between technology and design, Urbanears is on the way to fusing the two different industries. The color scheme of their headphones follows fashion design from season to season and with a choice of materials like washable textiles they are redefining what an article of clothing can be. The playful fabric that adorns their headphones is showing the way. Development is rapid and the big design companies have not been slow to catch up. Successful collaborations with for example H&M and Marc Jacobs will be followed by new, as yet secret collaboration projects, says Oscar Axhede. But even if Urbanears oper-

the design dragged behind. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cell phones were technical gadgets for guys with their main focus on specs!" Finnish Nokia began to give the design greater priority and then the real design revolution came with Apple. But the headphones were totally forgotten about. Although they are often more exposed than the phone no-one seemed to think that they deserved a worthy design. On the contrary they were completely overlooked. A plan began to take shape. â&#x20AC;?We wanted to make headphones that didn't feel like technical gadgets. At the same time they had to have better audio quality. But most important of all was that the user would get a chance to choose a product that was adapted according to his or her needs.â&#x20AC;? In 2009 Urbanears was launched as one of several brands in the company Zound Industries and the success was immediate. With simple, iconic design and the ability to choose among different colors and models the new contender Urbanears turned a necessary evil into a sassy accessory. The transformation is somewhat in the style of what designer frames did for glasses. But it didn't stop there. With the stated aim

ates in a global market they are committed to maintaining a local spirit. All headphone models are named after nicknames of places in the hometown of Stockholm. ”Slussen”, ”Plattan”, ”Sumpan” and ”Kransen” are wellknown for Stockholmers and are reminiscent of the brand's Stockholmian and Scandinavian origins. To keep ahead of the competition the Urbanears collective find out everything they can about how their products are used. ”We want to get to know the users deeply. By listening to the same music, running on the same jogging tracks and understanding

the subcultures they move in we keep track of their needs and desires. It is an advantage when we try to beat our competitors, that we are present in the world where our products are used." The subcultures mentioned are often physically demanding, something that does not frighten Oscar Axhede who has a background in various boardsports. ”Well, in any case they sweat a great deal at work…” reflects the observer. Some comfort, perhaps, while waiting for their own brilliant idea.

The color scheme of their headphones follows fashion design from season to season and with a choice of materials like washable textiles, they are redefining what an article of clothing can be.

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man

EDBLAD

Moss Bracelet. Leather and metal are always a good idea. A multiturned bracelet with rows of brown leather and a stainless steel clip. Looks good without breaking your bank account either. edblad.se

For the power player in you. Unique stylish Swedish Brands weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re obsessing over. Featuring some state of the art, high performance products complimenting your wardrobe and lifestyle. HALDA SWEDEN

Halda Space Discovery Watch. A stylish timepiece for astronauts, and those appreciating quality advanced technology. NASA certified, it features two interchangeable time modules, the Mechanical for earth and the Space module for space. The 128 limited edition pieces include a steel bracelet and Velcro strap. Out of this world. haldasweden.com

TIGER OF SWEDEN

Steel 8 Shirt. Finding the perfect fit denim shirt can be tough, but look no further, Tiger of Sweden creates a great slim fit, denim shirt. Note, the blue hue is perfection. In true, classic ToS style. tigerofsweden.com

HASSELBLAD

A powerful top class camera for the passionate photographer. Handmade in Sweden with the utmost precision, resulting in beautiful performance. Introducing the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first compact mirrorless digital medium format camera - lightweight (725g), ergonomic, compact, includes HD Video, Wi-Fi, and built-in GPS. An iconic game changer. hasselblad.com

AGONIST

Art, beauty and style in a bottle. Agonist currently offers 11 individual unisex fragrances, each with a unique name. The Infidels is an edgy yet sensual fragrance, with notes of rose, Lebanese Cedarwood, Magnolia, Bourbon Vanilla, Myrrh. agonistparfums.com

SVEN TTE N I S ÄARNE ITN ERREIDONRI NDGESSFIÖGRN CG O Mmed PA N Ybutik located Strandvägen 55iniStockholm, Sweden. It was founded in S VSEKNTS K T EN NN T T IN E TA påonStrandvägen Stockholm. Företaget grundades

1924 Estrid Ericsson, tio årJosef senare knöt Frank till likaand eleganta 1924 byav Estrid Ericson, whosom recruited Frank toJosef the company 10företaget. years later.Tillsammans Together theyskapade created de theden elegant boldlysom färgstarktpatterned mönstrade och högst personliga inredningsstil som Svenskt Tenns än idag. personal interior design style that continues to genomsyrar pervade the collection to thissortiment day. In 1975 founder Estrid Ericson sold her lifetime theKjell Kjell and Foundation. År 1975 sålde grundaren Estrid Ericsonachievement, sitt livsverk Svenskt SvensktTenn, Tenntotill och Märta MärtaBeijer Beijers Stiftelse, The sommajor är en aims of the Foundation are tounder promote scientific research within Sweden, in theSverige areas offrämja energy and ecology, toforskning give grantsoch for allmännyttig stiftelse offentlig tillsyn. Stiftelsens syfte ärmainly att inom vetenskaplig undervisning främst inom områdena ekologi och medicin samt att lämna understöd till undervisning och utbildning supporting teaching and education, primarily in the economic, technological and agricultural technology areas and to support the inom ekonomiska, teknologiska och jordbrukstekniska stödjer även fortlevnaden och bevarandet av survival of cultural and artistic values områden. in SwedishStiftelse home decoration traditions. kulturella och konstnärliga värden inom svensk heminredningstradition.

S VNESNK SK SVE T T TT EENNNN Strandvägen5,5,Stockholm Stockholm Strandvägen www.svenskttenn.se www.svenskttenn.se

SELEC TED destinations

GOTLAND PHOTO - ELISABETH EDÃ&#x2030;N/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

The Island of Opportunity

PHOTO - HELENA WAHLMAN/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

SELEC TED destinations

BY HENRIK MOBERGER

The island of Gotland is a unique part of Sweden. It is sunnier than anywhere else in the country, its flora and fauna are truly special, and its dialect is unmistakable. Visby, which is a UNESCO world heritage site surrounded by the only ring wall left in Sweden, welcomes hundreds of thousands of tourists every year. The island has endured a great deal of misery but has emerged with a cheery countenance. Visit Gotland and have the time of your life.

time but is as hearty as ever and is the main reason that UNESCO made Visby a world heritage site.

PHOTO - HENRIK MOBERGER

Scenic and picturesque Obviously people don't come to Gotland just to stare at a wall. Enter through the city gate of your choice and embark on a scenic and picturesque adventure. Churches, ruins, small pastel houses (clad more often than not in climbing roses), museums and a botanical garden. Not to mention a maze of narrow cobblestone streets, hotels, stores and restaurants. Housed in an ancient building, the Gotland Brewery is well worth a visit. Its treasure chest of beers with amusing names, the picture of a pugnacious bulldog gracing the label, are best sellers throughout Sweden. Craftspeople abound in Visby and their shops offer tremendous bargains. Sheep farming is a popular livelihood all over the island. In addition to delicious lamb in the supermarkets, lovely sheepskin and lambskin products are available at specialty stores.

PHOTO - ELISABETH EDĂ&#x2030;N/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

otland is the biggest Swedish island. The first time it officially belonged to the country was way back in 1285. The ring wall around its only city had just been built. Luckily for the city because a civil war between it and the rest of Gotland broke out three years later. The endurance of the wall suggests that the rest of the island didn't fare very well. Thank God it has been rebuilt and fortified down through the centuries. It has absorbed more than one cannonball in its

PHOTO - HENRIK MOBERGER

SELEC TED destinations

PHOTO - HENRIK MOBERGER

PHOTO - SIMON PAULIN/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

Ecological agriculture Gotland is famous for its agriculture, based largely on small-scale ecological cultivation and breeding. Farm stands, some with dairies of their own, dot the island and sell mouthwatering cheeses and organic vegetables. Tender Gotland asparagus is a staple in the springtime, and the fall harvest (aided by specially trained dogs) includes world-renowned truffles. Just stop by the hotel desk and you'll find out exactly where to go at this time of year. Don't forget to ask the waiters at the restaurant what they are currently serving in the way of local cheeses and other delicacies. Visby and the rest of the island greet thousands of tourists and summer residents in May-September. Local parlance refers to the heart of summer as the "Stockholm weeks.â&#x20AC;? The Medieval Week is an annual carnival in

early August. Almedalen Park in the oldest section of Visby is a household word in Sweden because it hosts the leaders of the various political parties during the first week of July. People stand around in shorts and shirt sleeves and listen to their passionate exhortations. Saffron pancakes and dewberry jam Follow one of the city's knowledgeable, linguistically talented guides to the various points of interest. Considering that the ring wall is 3.44 kilometers in circumference, there is a lot to see within its perimeter. Plop down at a cafe and savor the famous saffron pancakes with cream and local dewberry jam. A cornucopia of restaurants have tasty dinner menus. While you're not relishing the island cuisine, you could do worse than hang out at the Gotland Museum with its Hall of Antiquity.

Spend hours engrossed in Gotland's checkered history since the Viking Era. Once you have had your fill of Visby, ask the hotel to arrange bicycle rentals and a picnic basket for you. The terrain is relatively level, so there's no need to huff and puff. Start with Kyrkberget above the cathedral for the sake of the view and ride out to Galgberget north of the city. Countless unfortunate souls were hanged there before the island adopted more gentile ways. A key Hanseatic town Gotland was one of the most import Baltic trading posts for the Vikings. Construction of the wall began in the twelfth century and Kruttornet at Almedalen is the oldest building in the city. Visby was a key Hanseatic town during the Middle Ages and blossomed as it seized control of the trans-Baltic trade. But the Black Death of the fourteenth century decimated the population. Harried by wars and pirates, the island reverted to the poorest of agricultural societies when the Hanseatic League fell apart. In the 1920s, well-to-do Stockholm residents began to build summer cottages on

both Gotland and Fårö, the smaller island that Ingmar Bergman was to call home for so many years. Fårö may have a permanent population of only 550, but upwards of 10,000 people spend the summer there. An excursion to Fårö will give you a chance to experience not only the spirit of the great movie and stage director but its unrivalled landscape. A rubble beach in Langhammars flaunts a collection of rauks up to eight meters high, the best known limestone pillars in Gotland. Pippi Longstocking Kneippbyn, three kilometers south of Visby, is a paradise for you and your children. Visit Pippi Longstocking, the heroine of Astrid Lindgren's books, in her house and romp in her spacious play land. Due to its bedrock of limestone, Gotland brandishes a rich profusion of flowers in spring and summer. Not only that, but the climate is a radical departure from the typical Swedish mainland. The cold sea water holds spring back a bit. But the sunny summer weather keeps the bedrock warm far into the fall. September

is a delightful month to be in Gotland. All the amenities and pleasures are still waiting for you while the Swedish tourists have gone home and returned to work. The sky is clear, the air is balmy and you can simply lean back and enjoy yourself. Wandering with the sun Rent a car and explore the island on your own – it’s 180 kilometers from north to south and 50 kilometers from east to west. Bask in the spectacle of the rauk areas, stop by a few of the 92 churches, hike in the heaths or lush pine forests, listen to the birds sing, be awed by the view from Hoburgen (the southern lookout) or walk barefoot on the beach. Take the hotel's list of farm stands and keep an eye out for some of the local delicacies you munched on at the restaurant the night before. Get up before dawn, drive straight across the island and watch the sun come up before your daylong expedition. Get back to Visby in time to stand on the ring wall and marvel while the last rays of dusk massage the city from the western sea.

PHOTO - EMELIE ASPLUND/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

Stockholm is celebrated as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Also known as one of the most stylish and culturally pleasing capital cities too, with great shopping, dining, hotels and cultural experiences. The city is surrounded by parks and spread out over 14 islands in the fresh water Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea, therefore also known as the “Venice of the North. ”Explore the day and night life, then escape out to the serene Archipelago made up of 30,000 islands, in true Stockholm style.

PHOTO - BJÖRN TESCH/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

Stockholm PHOTO - GRAND HÔTEL STOCKHOLM

travel GUIDE

SHOP

Sweden is well known as a style capital of the world. Where “Scandi style” is a natural thing in everyday fashion and in homes. Stylish stores and districts you may want to visit.

STAY

There is an abundance of great hotels in Stockholm. From standard to opulent luxury to archipelago chic. Wherever you stay, you are most likely close to both nature and the city. Diplomat Hotel diplomathotel.com Classic and cool, this waterfront hotel is located on the most exclusive residential street in Stockholm. Enjoy excellent cuisine, an in-house art exhibition or an afternoon tea. Grand Hotel Stockholm grandhotel.se For opulent luxury this 5-star hotel has the top location in the city and neighbors with the Royal Palace. Housing one of the top hotel bars in Stockholm, the Cadier Bar does divine cocktails. Hotel Skeppsholmen hotelskeppsholmen.se A unique location combining tranquility and city life right in the heart of the city. They do incredible brunches. Sandhamn Yacht Hotel sandhamn.com Getting here is nearly as wonderful as staying here. A beautiful sail through the archipelago, gets you here in about 2 hours. Located in the harbor, this beautiful hotel offers everything you need.

Bibliotekstan, Östermalm bibliotekstan.se Designer and luxury brands at this exclusive shopping district, which dates back to 1885 with a mix of superb Scandinavian and International luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Filippa K, Ralph Lauren, J. Lindeberg and more. Sofo, Södermalm visitstockholm.com The trendy bohemian neighborhood of Södermalm has a mix of cool, creative stores. Also named one of Vogue’s top 15 “Coolest neighborhoods in the World” in 2014. Visit stores like Grandpa, Acne Studios, Jus and Mini Rodini for the fashionable kids. Stroll down Södermannagatan, Bondegatan and Nytorget Square. Nordiska Galleriet nordiskagalleriet.se One of Europe’s leading stores for contemporary design and interior decor with an impressively large assortment of designs from Scandinavian and international designers. Department Stores ahlens.se and nk.se Two of the main department stores lie in the heart of the city with a range of Swedish and international designers as well as their own quality brands, NK and Åhléns City. NK’s Design House Stockholm concept store is not to be missed. Or shop in luxury with your own personal shopper tailor made to suit your style at Åhléns City’s Personal Shopping Department. The fashion and home décor are our clear favorites.

PHOTO - OLA ERICSON/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE PHOTO - BJÖRN TESCH/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

FROM STOCKHOLM TO:

Explore much more of Sweden, it’s quite easy. Here are a few suggestions. Stockholm Archipelago stromma.se or waxholmsbolaget.se Trips range from 25 minutes to 2-3 hours away depending on the island.

FIKA

Coffee culture is alive and truly well in Sweden. So when in Sweden, you have to” fika” – to socialize over cups of coffee and pastries. Indoors or outdoors, come rain, snow or shine, there is always a time and place for “fika. ” Rosendals Trädgårdscafé rosendalstradgard.se Located on the Royal island of Djurgården, this is a local favorite and set in beautiful surroundings. Chokladkoppen chokladkoppen.se Perfect for people-watching and picture moments. Set in the heart of the Old Town, near the Nobel Museum and the Royal Palace. Their white chocolate cheesecake and pecan nut toffee pie is so good. Mellqvist Café & Bar Located at Hornsgatan 78 in über cool Södermalm. A regular fika spot of fictional character Mikael Blomqvist "The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo" and a real-life favorite fika spot of Millennium Trilogy writer Stieg Larsson. Great vibe and of course great coffee.

Visby, Gotland destinationgotland.se Only a 35-40-minute flight from Stockholm on Norwegian, BRA Airlines or by ferry to this medieval town. Gothenburg, West Coast goteborg.com A 1-hour flight with great prices via Norwegian Airlines. Or enjoy a 3-hour high-speed train ride with SJ (sj.se )to explore the stunning west coast. Malmö, Skåne visitskane.com Just over a 1-hour flight to Malmö to start exploring the beauty of southern Sweden. Luleå, Swedish Lapland lulea.nu Located just below the Arctic Circle, only a 1 hour and 15 minute flight north to explore this cool Swedish Lapland city.

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DAGMAR

Joy Dress. The three Swedish sisters that make up the Dagmar team all understand what women want. This flattering easy-to-wear Joy dress from their knitwear AW16 collection, embodies their award-winning unconventional sophisticated style. houseofdagmar.se

kvinna Looking forward to getting our hands on these quality products or gifts. Perfect designs to call your own from Swedish brands we love to love.

IDYLLIEN

Scented candles. Idyllen is a Swedish brand of bathroom linens, as well as room and personal fragrances with a touch of Visby and Gotland, where the company’s first store thrives to this day. Or why not check out Sturegallerian in Stockholm. idyllien.se

SKULTUNA

Lovely solid bracelets by Skultuna – brass that has been enameled and plated with 18 carat gold. Kajsa Avila designed the new Dots and Flower Collections. skultuna.com

ODD MOLLY

High School Sweetheart Jacket. This free spirited fun and unconventional brand continues to soar globally and we are particularly loving this beautiful bomber jacket. A compliment to any wardrobe and suits well with nearly all outfits. oddmolly.se

EMMA FÄLLMAN

Totem Monkey Mini Scarf. Illustrator, print designer and fellow Swede, Emma Fällman has a superb collection of luxury high fashion scarves made with the finest 100% silk from Como, Italy. This luxurious deep blue hand drawn mini silk scarf, features a monkey on a flamingo symbolizing balance in life, good luck and playfulness. Your own stylish lucky charm. emmafallman.se

VISIT OUR FLAGSHIP STORE AT BIRGER JARLSGATAN 13, STOCKHOLM. ENGELBERTSTOCKHOLM.COM

BY SANCHIA LAMBERT

CEO Johanna Pietsch.

House of Engelbert I

am a jewelry lover; most women are, but the times I remember the most are the ones when I received my first real pieces of jewelry. Like, when my parents gave me a stunning solitaire necklace in Cape Town, or when my husband proposed to me in New York, or a timeless bracelet I bought myself, because I deserved (and loved) it, or when we were married in Versailles - Paris. These are not only favorite jewelry pieces, but rather moments in time; the experience, etched clearly in my memory, gifts I highly value today. That is what jewelry is about – more than just a fashion statement, more than just dazzling, one of the best gifts or souvenirs you can give to yourself or someone you love. Overall, a fabulous quality piece of jewelry is elegance incarnate and makes you feel incredible, and you can’t put a price on that really. In Sweden’s capital, there is only one place to go for the most exclusive in luxury,

traditional and designer jewelry. The House of Engelbert, Stockholm. Rich in history, this generational jeweler is passionate about its craftsmanship, designs and diamonds and offers a superb variation of classic, contemporary and modern designs. Meticulous not only in its attention to detail, but on a service level, it is the only jeweler in the country where you can request a 3 carat cushion cut diamond or a 5 carat emerald cut and have it delivered to you within a few days. We speak to CEO and expert Johanna Pietsch, who welcomes us into the magical world of Engelbert. The Engelbert brand has a strong line of heritage. How and when did it begin? JP: Engelbert has a history that stretches back to the early 1920’s so, soon we will be celebrating our centennial. The first generation started with Heribert Engelbert. Basically it

started out as a jewelry wholesaler but developed over the years, his increasingly distinctive Scandinavian design. Today the company is owned by fourth generation Engelbert and Oscar Engelbert. He is young, charismatic and an exceptional entrepreneur. He has set a strong and tasteful touch to the brand since he took over four years ago. Many may be familiar with him from Oscar Properties, which excels in its tastefulness in both architecture and interior design. Describe the style of the jewelry? JP: Our design is characterized by beauty, timelessness and mobility. Thomas Carlsson, our award winning designer, often plays with a multifaceted design and many curves. It's danceable and almost organic but still stylish and architectural. Yes, it’s a bit hard to explain, but as Thomas said; “It must be beautiful from

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all sides.” I think that sums it up well. A good example is our recent Swirl earrings and, of course, the big Knot rings. We have statement pieces of very high quality but also a range of jewelry for occasions, such as birthdays and gifts. When it comes to rings set with single stone diamonds, the design is very classic, as they tend to be a part of someone’s future, such as an engagement or wedding. Where do your designers and visionaries draw their inspiration from? JP: We work a lot with picking up elements from the company's history in our design. As an example, the second generation Stig Engelbert (also called Stigbert), previously worked with rock crystals and bows. That’s what we are now working with for the next collection. It is extremely fun, to connect the story in a new guise. Even our thin zodiacs with diamonds are inspired by former zodiac sign rings. What are the core traditional values of this company that have kept it so successful for nearly 100 years? JP: After such a long time in the business it is clear that quality is the key word. I also believe that it is a good thing we don’t follow trends. We are confident enough to believe in what we do and that our design is long lasting. The family has also been passionate about jewelry through all generations, so the business has been, close to the heart, so to speak. Tell us about the high quality and sourcing of your diamonds? JP: All around the world, the competition of selling diamonds involves gambling with quality. At Engelbert we decided not to do that. So we deal only with rare white diamonds of VS quality (very small inclusions). Many of our suppliers have been loyal to the company for more than 30 years and are well aware of our quality demand and only supply guaranteed conflict-free and ethically sourced diamonds. There is also so much going on with treatments, filling and laser drilling that we want to ensure our clients never have to worry. We want to keep it beautiful. The diamond is a beautiful thing and also very often the reason why people buy them. So it’s important to keep the entire chain of business, just as beautiful. As the CEO, how involved are you in the artistry and craftsmanship of the jewelry?

JP: Jewelry is an absolute passion for me I started my career as a jewelry expert after graduating as a gemologist and diamond grader. I also worked for Graff Diamonds in London for a period of time. So big diamonds are my particular specialty. I work very closely with our designer. We draw the lines together and discuss our history and inspiration. When that is done, he starts working. And he is a very talented designer so it is always wonderful to see the results. For me, it is also very important to be in love with what we do. I can’t sell things I don’t love. Within the entire collection, what is your favorite piece? JP: I really like black diamonds. They have a very exclusive feel to them without being too sparkly. Not everyone knows it is a diamond and you can wear it every day without being overdressed. So I have to pick the big black diamond knot ring with 5.60 carats of pavé set diamonds. It is an absolute piece of art. Engelbert jewelry, is sold exclusively here in Sweden, do you have any plans to expand internationally? JP: We are definitely looking into that. Our design is so special and intricate that I think Engelbert would do great overseas. We are now planning an exhibition on board The World, where our sales executive Per Lidvall, used to run a Graff store for many years. We really look forward to introducing Engelbert to these clients. Apart from being popular with Swedes, what other countries/nationalities does Engelbert attract most interest from? JP: In Sweden, Engelbert is the only place that specializes in big diamonds. Obviously that greatly affects the Asian tourists whom are visiting Stockholm. We are literally the only place where you can request a 3 carat cushion cut diamond or a 5 carat emerald cut and have it delivered to you within a few days. Apart from that, it’s our unique design such as the Swirl earrings, that attracts a lot of attention from all sorts of visitors. What can people expect when buying an Engelbert piece? JP: First of all, everything we sell is made and designed by us. We don’t buy anything ready made from trade shows, etc.

The quality lasts a lifetime and comes with a three year guarantee. Apart from the beautiful piece itself, the employees at our store are wellknown for providing outstanding service. It’s an absolute memory for life; hopefully just as beautiful as their stay in Stockholm. Your flagship store has the perfect location in Stockholm. Can you tell us a little more? JP: The flagship store opened three years ago, and we are celebrating it in August with lots of activities. It has a very Scandinavian

feel but also very international. The architect Christian Helleroed is a well-known Danish architect. Prada and Louis Vuitton are located right next door, and Chanel just opened, so it attracts a lot of both Asian and American customers. If you are in Stockholm, a visit to their store is a must and makes the experience even more worthwhile with their exceptional service. For more information about Engelbert jewelry, visit their website engelbertstockholm.com

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HAYMARKET by Scandic

BY SANCHIA LAMBERT

hotel is usually described as a “home away from home,” but this one however feels like a grander version of that, more like a “world within a world.”. Now, I am not sure if that is partially a great result thanks to the incredible marketing, or the very glamourous opening they recently had – there are so many potential reasons, but whatever the exact one may be, there certainly is no other hotel like it in Stockholm or in Sweden. Located right in the heart of the city, Haymarket is a modern art deco style hotel and the Scandic Hotel Group’s latest and most intriguing project yet. For those who don’t know, Scandic, being one of the largest hotel operators in the Nordics (if not THE largest) has about 230 hotels spread over eight countries, and Haymarket is the first of its unique Signature hotels concept – and unique

it is indeed. The thoughtfulness put into this hotel is all in the details. Step into the world of Haymarket by Scandic,; an iconic building situated in the perfect location on Hötorget and neighbors with Konserthuset (the the Concert Hall), home to the Royal Stockholm Philharmonic Orchestra and host venue for many grand events and ceremonies, such as the Polar Music Prize and the Nobel Prize, held here annually. My first proper visit here, started with a classic live jazz champagne brunch. Need I say more? We could just stop right here, but you probably want to know more. Walking through the entrance, feels like stepping into a contemporary fabulous twenties era of our time. Another place where even the Great Gatsby would feel at home. Where fashion and classic movies meets Scandinavian glamour

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and cool with an all-round, very international vibe. There is something here for everyone, where all feels welcome and everyone feels chic. The building is rich in history, dates back to 1916 and was previously known as PUB, named after the founder Paul U. Bergström. It was a large and well-known department store where Swedish superstar Greta Garbo used once worked as a sales clerk in the hat department. Everyone involved in the creation and transformation of this historic building,

preserved and honored the history, heritage and charm of icons like Paul and Greta. This vibrant hotel offers 405 hotel rooms, including 16 suites, “Paul’s,” an American brasserie, “Greta’s,” a smaller wellness-style cafe, “Americain,” a cosmopolitan bar, a unique rooftop event space and one of my favorite characteristics: an intimate and private cinema just for hotel guests. As vibrant as the hotel may be, it’s easy to get a good night’s sleep here. The rooms

are quite spacious, ranging from the “Cozy Single Sleep” to the “Hay Master Suite” and the amazing “Grande Terrace Suite,” which includes a private rooftop terrace – perfect for intimate exclusive parties and events overlooking the city rooftops. Each room embodies a sensual 1920s art deco ambiance with features such as rose gold faucets and custom-designed patterned wallpaper and textiles. A few other features we love are their marble countertops, velvet couches, palm tree patterned chairs, their fabulous bathrooms with pink flamingo tiled walls and movie star dressing room lighting. In the rooms and around the hotel, be sure to take note of the art on the walls as well as the visual art when entering the hotel. All created exclusively for Haymarket by Nordic fashion photographers and stylists. My favorite part? The cocktails to be had here are world-class and the bartenders know a thing or two about the art of making a really good cocktail. There is truly something for everyone at this hotel. Whether you are visiting or staying, you can’t miss it. It could not be any more accessible if you tried, because all roads lead to Haymarket. This is not “just” a hotel, it is a destination, and you will certainly know that you have arrived.

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Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all in the details. Beautiful closets, custom designed exclusively for Haymarket.

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Three fashion brands not to miss out on when visiting Stockholm

RODE BJER ACNE STUDIOS COS

As you walk down the streets of Stockholm, its evident that it's natives take style very seriously. Little wonder that Sweden has become a dominant force on the international fashion scene. As with all Swedish design, there's a strong sense of national pride, as Swedes choose to wear home-grown brands over other international fashion houses. This is hardly surprising when you consider the vast array of cutting edge brands at their fingerstips, available at the best prices due to their local origin. Here's a look at a few of the key players in this incredibly cool style haven. Two of them are Swedish and one, you may be surprised to know, is British with strong Scandinavian influences.

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he story of Rodebjer began in 1999 on the streets of Manhattan, when its creator, fashionista Carin Rodebjer was spotted wearing one of her own creations, much in the tradition of how most dream careers begin. Award-winning Rodebjer has become a cornerstone in the wardrobe of the modern Swedish woman, due in no small part to its long, elegant and flowing lines, composed of luscious folding fabrics that drape the body. The brand has become synonymous with ethereal elegance, boho sophistication and femininity. There's a distinct "flirting with the 70s" vibe that echoes through its denim wear and much of the fall/winter collections. Many Rodebjer items have become such modern classics that they have been repeated in consecutive

years. The wide-legged Sini trousers and the Dee blazer can be reused and updated from season to season by complementing them with separates in current prints, such as the block and border. This makes it a firm favorite with the Swedish minimalist approach to dressing. In April of this year Rodebjer relocated its flagship store on Jakobsbergsgatan, to 300m2 on Norrmalmstorg, in the heart of Stockholm's luxury fashion district. The company has continued growth at a steady 30% per year in the last 5 years. Non-residents of Sweden can order online, where shipping is worldwide. Key items to look out for are: Voulana and Odessa coats, the Shu bomber jacket, the Agave caftan in seasonal print and the denim selection, to name but a few. rodebjer.com

RODE

PHOTO - RODEBJER

A Swedish fashion brand not to miss out on when visiting Stockholm 48

Timeless, laid back luxury for the modern womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe

BJER 49

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PHOTO - ACNESTUDIOS

Pioneers in cool, innovative classics with an edge

PHOTO - DAVID SIMS/ACNESTUDIOS

ACNE STUDIOS A

CNE Studios has become a household name, not only in its native Sweden, but also on the international market. Its influence on the industry in general is undeniable and "The Acne look" is aspired to by many. Acne Studios is not just a high fashion brand; it is so much moreâ&#x20AC;Ś Founded in 1996 by Johnny Johansson, Acne Studios gained international recognition initially as a denim brand, becoming the number one choice for jeans amongst models, fashionistas, and celebrities alike. A.S. has come a long way since then, developing a complete clothing brand, and although it's denim range continues to be a best seller, these days it's hard it's hard to pick out just a few key pieces. You could argue that A.S. has completely redefined the classic leather biker jacket and even taken it to couture level, using sublimely soft lamb leather with

painstaking handstitched finishing. A.S. footwear has almost become a brand within a brand, the Pistol ankle boot has achieved cult status and is one of the most copied footwear models in the last decade. You can't say that there's not something for everyone at A.S., and tailoring is no exception! This seasons elegantly oversized Deana blazer is already proving to be the next modern classic and comes in a variety of fabrics and textures, there's even a lavish, bead-encrusted version with an electric guitar emblem on the back for the rock nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; roll in you. Even a seemingly basic wardrobe standard such as a shirt, does not come without the signature "Acne" edge. The recently launched series of handbags is worth a mention, as is the eyewear. There's even a line in children's wear and being available in 45 stores and worldwide, it's definitely a fashion force to be reckoned with. acnestudios.com

A Swedish fashion brand not to miss out on when visiting Stockholm

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COS

The essence of Swedish minimalism at its best

ollection of Style (COS) a member of the H & M Group, launched in the UK in 2007 and has since expanded rapidly around the world, including Sweden. Known for its timeless, effortless esthetic, COS embodies the cool concept of â&#x20AC;&#x153;style over fashionâ&#x20AC;?. It has become an international staple in the wardrobe of the modern man and woman, and it even has a childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s line too. COS's strength lies in clean lines, and the typical COS wardrobe is virtually clutter free. Many classics are reworked and given a contemporary edge, with an emphasis on both form and function. Their style is strongly influenced by mood, architecture and design. It's the epitome of Scandinavian design philosophy, paired down with no unnecessary detail, and this approach resonates well with the global market. It's no wonder the head designers for

their womenswear and menswear are both native Swedes. The collections are generally in line with the Swedish penchant for the oversized look and are comprised of interchangeable separates. The A-line form, which is easy for anyone to carry off, can be seen in shirts, coats and dresses. There's a light airiness with an ease of movement that comes standard with the COS look. The brand lends itself well to creating the perfect capsule wardrobe. In a nutshell, it's simple, urban chic made easy for everyone from the ordinary to the busy professional client base. COS is a role model for all age groups that value style and quality at affordable prices. There are currently an impressive 174 stores around the world, covering 31 markets, and an online sales presence in 19 markets. Visit their flagship store in Stockholm at Biblioteksgatan 3. cosstores.com

A fashion brand not to miss out on when visiting Stockholm PHOTO - KARIM SADLI. STYLING - JONATHAN KAYE

Silver and Jewelry

urt

R ibbhagen AB is a leading Swedish expert in

the field of antique jewelry and silver. The company sells everything from sixteenth

century trinkets to valuable pieces from later periods. The company also manufactures and customizes gold jewelry and ornaments on order. Jan Ribbhagen, the owner, frequently appears as an expert on the popular TV program Antikrundan. The fact that the company is a member of the Swedish Association of Art and Antique Dealers undoubtedly adds to its prestige and credibility in the eyes of its customers. Feel free to ask for an appraisal of any antiques that you own. If you are interested in selling one of your possessions, the company is always looking to purchase items.

KURT RIBBHAGEN +46 (0)8 545 078 60 Birger Jarlsgatan 2 www.kurtribbhagen.se

Claes Grännsjö and Alexander Bäckman

restaurant

NOOK

Affordable with an edge!

BY KENNETH LAGSTRÖM PHOTO JACOB FRIDHOLM

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lexander Bäckman was trained as a wine waiter and Claes Grännsjö as a chef. Both of them have worked for five-star restaurants as well as the trendier and more niche-oriented. One day Mr. Gränn-sjö decided to open an establishment of his own. After having found the perfect location in Stockholm, he gathered up his belongings and headed for the city. Mr. Bäckman needed a little more coaxing. But all his doubts vanished as soon as he set foot in the place. A small dining room that accommodated more than 40 patrons and a bar that could serve 20 more. "People are

going to love it here," they told each other. Mr. Grännsjö had always dreamed of owning a restaurant. His entrepreneurial spirit was nurtured in the forests of western Sweden. His Korean background sparked an interest in Asian cuisine. Mr. Bäckman's family had always been self-employed, so working for someone else was a welcome change of pace. He is a wine connoisseur and a people person. The menu they have put together combines traditional European fare and Asian influences. But they aren't bound to any particular formula. "The most important thing is that we enjoy the food ourselves," Mr. Bäckman says.

Nook is on Åsögatan Street, just beyond the bustling hip neighborhood of SoFo (south of Folkungagatan Street) in the Södermalm District. But it could have been just about anywhere and still overflowed with diners every night. Best of all, you get a lot of food for your money. Mr. Bäckman likes to say, "Nook is in your corner." A slew of newspaper articles appeared when the restaurant first opened. They didn't have to spend a dime trying to attract patrons. Of course, the reputation they had built in Gothenburg didn't hurt. And two southerners arriving in Stockholm was something of a sensation in itself.

The place is simple and comfy. Tall picture windows with a view of Åsögatan Street and its most charming stretches make for a marvelous ambience. The practical furnishings include industrial sized lights that hang from the ceiling. Why not slip over to the bar and order a glass of your favorite drink before sitting down to eat? Try some pork buns, which Momofuko (David Chang's restaurant in Manhattan) made famous. "Here in Stockholm, we bake the bread ourselves and fry the pork." Ssam – a wrap of beef tataki, tomato, water buffalo yogurt, deep-fried onion and coriander – is also a must. The bar is top-notch. Choose from

a wide range of distinctive gin and tonics by daring small-scale producers. Or take a chance on a homemade tonic. As the drink and snack warm your innards, your attention will inevitably turn to the two dinner menus One menu will set you back SEK 350 and the other SEK 400. Whichever one you pick, you will encounter a number of tempting delicacies. The default option is an appetizer, main dish and dessert. But feel free to go a la carte if you prefer. Settling on the more expensive menu, I revel in Mediterranean scallops, pork belly with umami gravy and apple crisp. You can order from a list of 150 wines,

most of them European, with each course. Mr. Bäckman colorfully describes what the various kinds taste like. As I'm finishing up, Mr. Bäckman walks around the restaurant helping people choose a wine. Steaming delicacies from Mr. Grännsjö's woks are still coming out of the kitchen. I stand up to leave – happy, full and satisfied. My pleasure is seasoned by the knowledge that a few bills are still in my wallet for once. This is a dining experience you won’t want to miss. nookrestaurang.se

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Canola Oil BY KENNETH LAGSTRÖM PHOTO PERNILLE TOFTE

the new Olive Oil!

The Swedish field is covered by fluffy yellow blankets. It's May and canola is blooming. It suddenly occurs to me that I haven't seen these particular fields before. A little research and I find out why. Canola is cultivated on a six-year rotation cycle. Both the soil and the plants thrive as a result. Canola is classified as a cultivated plant in Sweden. The saga started back in the midseventeenth century on the island of Gotland. Or rather several thousand years earlier in India and China. Swedes extracted manufactured canola oil, known also as rapeseed oil when used for example, in lamps during the dark winter months. Rapeseed oil is hot-pressed for industrial use as a fat, but at the expense of flavor. Its use became widespread during the Second World War as a way of ensuring the country's ability to live on its own fuel and lubricants. Canola is third only to soybeans and palm as a source of the world's vegetable oil. It is cultivated in every corner of the globe. And not only for the seeds. The buds can be prepared and served like asparagus and broccoli. There are two type of canola. One kind is sown in the fall and harvested late the next summer. The second kind is sown in the spring and harvested the same year. Canola oil can be cold-pressed by means of friction at 86-129o F. The idea of the arduous process is to preserve the taste, vitamins and antioxidants. Approximately six pounds ISTOCKPHOTO– ©OKEA

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of canola seed are needed to produce a quart of oil, which is then filtered to one extent or another depending on the ultimate purpose. Canola oil has its own unique flavor each year. Soil, wind and weather are the determining factors. Among the different varieties of canola are Speed, Astrid, Vision, Fashion, and Diamond. It goes without saying that each variety comes with its own character and flavor. Cold-pressed canola oil, whose consumption is on the rise – often as a substitute for olive oil – is a perishable good. As a result, many producers save the seeds and extract the oil periodically throughout the year. The more delicately the seeds are handled, the longer they maintain their quality. The best before date for cold-pressed canola oil is approximately eighteen months after manufacture. Given how popular the product is, that time is rarely exceeded. Exposure to light, heat and oxygen all affect shelf life. Keep the oil in a cool, dark place and leave the cap on the bottle. Both flavor and nutritional value will benefit. The product is not as sensitive to cold as other oils. Refrigerate if you like. Canola oil is often promoted as a health product for its large percentage of unsaturated versus saturated fats. It also contains Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids. Omega 3 is not produced by the body and is obtained from nutrition only. Vitamin K, which is integral to bone health, and vitamin E, a natural antioxidant that protects cells from hazardous substances, are also found in canola oil. Åsa and Micke Levén own Säby Gård in Ingarö on the outskirts of Stockholm. Åsa is a professional chef with a flair for marketing who has run a restaurant of her own. Micke has acquired large agricultural holdings that ensure economies of scale. They are among the Swedish pioneers when it comes to production and refinement of cold-pressed canola oil. She is the one who lends soul and character to the farm's products, while he takes care of management and cultivation matters. Their children also help with the business. Åsa has many contacts in the restaurant industry. In addition to designing and maintaining the website, she has devoted a lot of time to analyzing the challenges that restaurateurs face these days. She identified the potential of cold-pressed canola oil early on. After huddling with many business people, Åsa was determined to promote the product as the cooking oil most suitable for the modern

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Pressing canola seeds creates two different products. The oil runs off in one direction while the remainder is compacted into high-protein pellets or cakes for animal fodder.

world. Locally produced food was all the rage, not to mention the popularity of small-scale manufacturing. Åsa and Micke weren't shy about spending money to acquire the skills and equipment they needed. It wasn't long before they were extracting their first drops of oil – a tantalizing golden color with a slightly nutlike flavor. The business took off like a rocket. Åsa marketed Säby Gård cold-pressed canola oil to supermarkets and restaurants. Less than a year later, both sales and distribution were in full swing. Åsa was meticulous about the distributors she chose to work with. Volume wasn't her only criterion. She wanted the product to show it best face. She went with supermarkets that emphasized quality, as well as restaurants with reputations as role models for the industry. "If a distributor isn't proud of selling or using the product, I'm not interested," Åsa says. Her contacts and the quality of the oil won her a nomination for Swedish Chef of the Year after only a few months of production. Säby Gård canola oil is now a familiar presence in the kitchens of leading restaurants and on the shelves of the best supermarkets in Stockholm The food department of NK, Sweden's traditional high-end department store, carries the product. The gastronomical experts at the Modern Museum and Mathias Dahlgren at the Grand Hotel also offer their patrons the specialty from Säby Gård. Åsa admits that producing, marketing and distributing canola oil as a family business is no easy task. But it is a source of deep joy and satisfaction. Lotta Ekberg, a copywriter, and Pernille Tofte, a photographer, sat down one day to discuss prospects for putting together the first book ever on the marvels of canola oil. They didn't waste any time. Votum och Gullers published Rapsolja (Everything You Always Wanted to Know about Canola Oil) in October 2015. The book is a magnificent pageant for the mind and eye. In addition to the entertainment value, it leaves the reader wiser and more knowledgeable about the world of canola oil. Both Säby Gård and other dedicated canola farmers are featured. Coming to your English bookstore soon (we hope). Here's a mouth-watering recipe from the Säby Gård website. Salmon carpaccio with cold-pressed canola oil, straight from the farm Thinly slice 11 ounces of raw salmon. Semi-thawed frozen fish will make your task a lot easier. Arrange the slices on a plate. Squeeze the juice of 1 lemon over the salmon. Sprinkle 4 tablespoons of oil on top, continue with 1/5 of a cup of pine nuts or sunflower seeds, 1 teaspoon of flaked salt, a pinch of newly ground black pepper and approximately 1/5 of a cup of fine arugula leaves. Make a little pile of leaves on the salmon so that they are visible. Spread 1/5 of a cup of sliced parmesan over your creation. Voila! Enjoy.

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cool DESIGN BY CARINA BERG

I just wanted to show off a few of my favorite pieces at the moment. Actually I think they go together quite well.

DANCING DUNE

Anna Elzer Oscarson has just released an elegant new collection, an porcelain series exquisitely formed in 3D. But it is the superb craftsmanship and heavenly glaze that lend the vases their vivaciousness and personality. Kent Eriksson and Hans-Olof Nilsson, two of the best Swedish glaziers of all time, have contributed their fathomless knowledge. Oscarson is particularly fascinated by the way that the designer and manufacturing process interact to illuminate unexplored horizons. She is living her dream of revitalizing and passing on the proud tradition of Swedish pottery. aeo-studio.com

PHOTO /STYLING - DANIELLA WITTE

The vases, dishes and plates come in many different colors. Check out AEO’s website, including a list of retailers.

Anna Elzer Oscarson is a graduate of HDK – School of Design and Craft, University of Gothenburg, Sweden. She has spent most of her time as a freelancer, specializing in patterns and utility goods. She won several awards, among them the Elle Interior Design Award, and she is represented at the Röhss Museum and Nordiska Museet.

Who can resist this seductive beauty? Vase, Dance, ocean blue, 30 cm high. Price: approximately SEK 1,450.

SVÄRTAN IKEA

This September, I will most certanly go to IKEA when they are launching SVÄRTAN – a temporary collection I am already in love with. The collection is the result of collaboration with Swedish textile designer Martin Bergström and 25 Indian fashion students from NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology) in New Delhi. The collection consists of textiles, paper items, glassware, ceramics and metal objects using only black, white and shades of grey... The entire SVÄRTAN collection has been produced in India and uses many traditional techniques together with natural materials with the goal to strike a balance between the organic and the abstract, encouraging us to see beauty in the seemingly mundane. ikea.com

PHOTO - KOSTA BODA © JONAS LINDSTRÖM

PHOTO -IKEA

Swedish fashion and textile designer Martin Bergström, known for his bold and avant-garde designs.

MATTIAS STENBERG

is a glass designer who recently joined the Kosta Boda team. His limited edition handmade Septum series is more sophisticated than any vases the company has ever produced. Each piece requires the effort of five different glassworkers. A septum is a dividing wall, such as the tissue that separates the right and left atria of the heart. Stenberg’s vases are smooth and austere on the outside, but the glass septum lends each one a unique and playful shape. They come in three natural colors reminiscent of Nordic glassmaking in the 1960s and 1970s. kostaboda.se

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VIKLAND

We can agree on how important travel suitcases are. New Swedish brand Vikland newly launched their fabulous travel trunks. These exclusive travel trunks are made of premium aluminum with an advanced technique, with a design that infused iconic Swedish simplicity and an industrial touch. No wonder why Vikland is my new favorite travel. vikland.com

by ANQI My name is Anqi. As a typical Stockholm teen, I have a special attachment to fashion and beauty products. Good food and music are two things I cannot live without. Poring over blogs and magazines from all over the world, ideally while enjoying a big cup of fresh coffee, is what I love to do.

EYTYS

Sneakers have been dominating the fashion world and street looks for the past few seasons, and nothing is indicating the trend to lessen. Swedish footwear EYTYS will definitely surprise you with their trendy and comfy sneakers. No matter if you are dressing up or down, with a pair of EYTYS kicks, no outfit can possibly go wrong. eytys.com

LILY & HANNA’S

Behind Swedish ice-cream company Lily & Hanna’s lies a heartwarming story; a loving mother created these wonderful ice cream recipes for her child who suffers from eczema. Ice-cream from Lily & Hanna’s are all organic, vegan and gluten-free, made out of ingredients with the best quality. You can now find them in numerous Coop supermarkets in Stockholm. lilyohanna.se

NICOLE VIENNA

Inspired by home interior designs and extending them to a piece of accessory, Nicole Vienne incorporated gorgeous marble patterns into their watches. Their watch collection has a minimalistic and edgy look that’s incredibly hard to resist. nicolevienna.com

SELEC TED escapes

The Tree Hotel Some places in this world are truly what dreams are made of and sometimes those dreams are a reality. The true essence of luxury is not in the monetary cost of something but rather in a feeling, an emotion, an experience that lasts for a lifetime. This magical place does just that.

SELEC TED escapes

BY SANCHIA LAMBERT PHOTO: PETER LUNDSTRÖM / WDO

ust 75 kilometers from the Arctic circle in Swedish Lapland north of Sweden, nestled in the forests, lies the Tree Hotel. A remote beautiful location surrounded by nature where you can reconnect with yourself, with someone or simply with life. I don’t just mean this figuratively, it is a fact and is exactly what I felt when was there. My flight from Stockholm direct to Luleå Airport

took a mere 45 minutes. From there, we journeyed a 100 kilometer scenic road trip and an hour later we were in a quaint village called Harads. With a population of about 600 people, it has a store, a restaurant and a guest house, never have I heard of Harads before, until the Tree Hotel came to life. We parked in front of a humble cozy looking guesthouse and at first I wondered if we were in

the right place. Like the total city girl that I am, I expected to see what I have been seeing online at first, wondering where the 6 unique rooms were I heard so much about. We were at Britta’s Pensionat, the mother-hub of the Tree Hotel and where your experience starts. Owners Britta and Kent Lindvall run it all from this very warm homely guesthouse which in itself is unique. It’s like stepping into a 1930’s – 1950’s Scandinavian era, very charming. Here we check-in and out, where breakfast, lunches and dinners are served and not to worry if you want complete privacy, meals can certainly be brought to your rooms as well. It’s a pleasant short walk over to the rooms, we follow a path, passing an open field, the perfect spot for a helicopter landing, it takes just 25 minutes to

or from Luleå airport. We walk the Victoria Path, named after Sweden’s Crown Princess Victoria when she journeyed to the Tree Hotel in 2010 together with her new Prince. Look carefully as you walk through the forests you may see some mirrored sculptures which are a great nod to more exceptional artistry I was about to see. The serenity of this place is superb and relaxes you the minute you arrive, so peaceful and as I explore more, I am in awe. The rooms are so unique it is almost unreal. Hanging in mid-air are 6 architecturally beautiful tree rooms, more like the tree houses of your dreams, as they are quite large in size and thankfully for some not suspended too high up in the air at only 4-6 meters above ground all of them with stunning nature views of the forests and the

SELEC TED escapes

Lule river. The Mirror Cube strikes my attention first, as it reflects the light of the sun and glistens like diamonds in the sky. The UFO is most intriguing, it sleeps five and is situated as though it landed perfectly from outer space and found its place on earth. The largest is the Dragonfly. I love all 52 square meters of it, you can invite others as well, seating up to 10, an inspiring place for innovative meetings and personal conferences. Escape into any one of the fantastical 6 contemporary rooms uniquely designed together with some of Scandinaviaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading architects. They look exactly what they sound like. The interior too is unique as they are all decorated accordingly and range in various sizes from 15-52m2, accommodating up to five to six people each. All of them are accessible by either a bridge, ramp or electric stairs. Not only does this hotel blend in with its natural surroundings but they are sustainably constructed with exactly this in mind, the environment. All rooms are fitted with water efficient sinks and environmentally friendly combustion toilet systems with minimal impact on the environment. There are many adventurous and relaxing experiences to explore that make you forget any stress or troubles and simply allow you to soak up your surroundings and just be. Nature walks, mountainbiking, kayaking, fly-fishing or a refreshing swim in the Lule river located right next to the hotel. In the colder months, cozy up by the fire while you listen to Sami stories about legends of the sacred bear, go dog sledding, dine on icy frozen lakes in a tipi tent lit up by candlelight while you stay warm with reindeer skins or simply enjoy the incredible sauna or the wonder of the Aurora, the Northern Lights. Here, you are able to disconnect from the world and reconnect with life in unspoiled nature. This is a magical playground surrounded by the tree houses of your dreams, such as The UFO, Blue Cone, Bird's Nest and Dragonfly and where you can listen to the sounds of the river, star gaze and aurora chase into the night sky. Rejuvenated, inspired and with a new respect for nature and design - you would never want to leave. Now that's a luxury I consider priceless. treehotel.se

Adventure Your World

SPIRIT OF THE NORTH Explore the Essence of Scandinavia & Lapland

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GENUINE TRADITIONAL SAMI ARTS & CRAFTS

EXCLUSIVE GIFTS, SOUVENIRS AND COLLECTOR'S ITEMS FROM LAPLAND

STORKYRKOBRINKEN 3 IN OLD TOWN, STOCKHOLM

BY KENNETH LAGSTRÖM PHOTO JACOB FRIDHOLM

PHOTO - ISA SVÄRD

agnes

a nontrendy hip restaurant

BY KENNETH LAGSTRÖM

PHOTO - ÅKE E:SON LINDMAN

milie Svensson and Theodor Siesage sat down in winter 2015 and talked about their future. Ms. Svensson, who had successfully managed a number of leading restaurants, was ready for new challenges. She and Mr. Siesage had collaborated in the past and knew each other quite well. He had been the driving force behind one of Stockholm's best Italian restaurants in recent years and felt that the time was right to expand. But on one condition only. He didn't want to be involved in day-to-day management. He already had plenty to do.Their discussion covered a lot of ground. What were they trying to accomplish? Where would the new place be? A neighborhood hangout appealed to both of them. An attractive menu and relaxed atmosphere. Good wine. Unpretentious but different. Suitable for quiet family dinners or animated parties. Before long they realized that they needed another partner. Michael Björkman, with whom they had both worked previously, was the logical choice. His culinary skills were just what they needed. He accepted right off the bat. They all got together and hashed out what the

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PHOTO - ÅKE E:SON LINDMAN

restaurant would look like. The next step was to find the right spot. A residential area with rent they could live with. Off the beaten track but in the city. The Kungsholmen District turned out to be their best bet. The former restaurant had closed when the partners broke up. Renovation was the first order of business. The new owners were all for it. They contacted Albert France-Lanord at AF-L Architects. They presented their ideas and gave him free reign. They instructed him to design and furnish the interior such that its charm would withstand the years. Undressed wood only. The chairs and tables are natural oak and the bar is trimmed with quality tin. Mr. France-Lanord drew inspiration from the work of Lars Englund, a designer of the 1960s

and 1970s. The lights that hang from the ceiling are patterned after the panels at the Stockholm Police Headquarters, which were built during that period. The headquarters are only a stone's throw away. The design of the clinker slabs for the floor are reminiscent of the facade of an industrial plant in Umeå that Mr. Englund once conceived. Mr. France-Lanord also got other artists involved. Ilja Karilampi designed the big mirror and Simon Mullan took on the bathroom. Last but not least – the menu. Asian and Mediterranean influences are unmistakable, but traditional Swedish cuisine is not far behind. Oysters, cold-cuts and cheese alternate with

PHOTO - ISA SVÄRD PHOTO - ISA SVÄRD PHOTO - ISA SVÄRD

PHOTO - ISA SVÄRD

side dishes that also go well with the main course – a perfect opportunity to share with your dinner companions. A tour of the wine cellar convinced me that there was something for everyone. Most varieties are available at a reasonable price per glass. Jamon Iberico puro bellota is the first cold-cut I would recommend. The side dishes I'm most fond off are the lobster rolls, artichokes, asparagus and truffles, or why not the razor clams with chili, garlic and parsley? If your belly is still craving for more, try the Thai squid salad with coriander, mint and cashews. My favorite main course is a seductive whiff of Sweden – grilled hanger steak with asparagus and wild onions from the island of Gotland. If your party is on the largish side, you might want to choose the "att dela på" (sharing) menu option, a fairly hot trend among Swedish restaurants. Your taste buds will be forever grateful for the variety. My suggestion is the shellfish platter or the roasted duck's liver with cocoa beans, savoy, apricots and maple syrup. And who doesn't want to finish off a satisfying meal with an unforgettable dessert? I'd go for Eton Mess, a dish for 2. As far back as the 1800s, Eton College would serve it during the annual cricket tournament with Harrow School, its arch rival. Fresh strawberries are part of the tradition, not to mention bananas, whipped cream and meringue. The menu is in constant flux. The one constant is that everyone in your party will find more than enough to delight in. Open Tuesday-Sunday. Special lunch menu during the week. Be sure to make a reservation – Agnes may be different but it's surely trendy. restaurangagnes.com

something for everyone

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STOCKHOLM, 2000 THE GHOST SONATA, MÃ&#x2026;LARSALEN HALL AT THE ROYAL DRAMATIC THEATER. INGMAR BERGMAN AT REHEARSALS. PHOTO - BENGT WANSELIUS / TT

ingmar

BERGMAN The Demon Director's Demons BY IVAN MATHIAS PETERSSON

ith anxiety as his engine, Swedish director Ingmar Bergman created not only unforgettable movies but the picture of Sweden that the rest of the world saw. If you had asked people around the world a few years ago what they knew about Sweden, the answer would often have been, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Not a thing!" But if you pressed on, a couple of definite views would emerge: A cold, socialist country in the north, populated by beautiful blondes and melancholy, hard-drinking men. Perhaps there were even polar bears. Sweden was also at the top of the list with respect to the number of suicides, and given the choice between taking to the bottle or a rifle to numb the anxiety, the tormented Swedes made the happy compromise of having sex with each other. Without beating about the bush and whenever they could. Such was the prevailing image of Sweden. Not a word about the Dalecarlian horses, Midsummer, Ikea or other edifying phenomena and a veritable nightmare for everyone who was struggling to market the small kingdom in the north. So ingrained were these beliefs that the Swedish authorities finally felt that they

needed to deal with them on Sweden's official website (www.sweden.se). Everything except the beautiful blondes was denied with hard facts and statistical clarifications. Whether it had any effect is unclear. A more effective way of controlling Sweden's image might have been a total ban on Swedish director Ingmar Bergman. Few people have contributed so greatly to shaping the perception of Sweden abroad. And few have so thoroughly examined what it means to be human â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Swedish or otherwise. Ingmar Bergman was born in 1918 in Stockholm, the second of three siblings. His father, Erik Bergman, was a pastor, his mother Karin a nurse. For a person who would later become a master at portraying human neuroses, the environment was ideal. The home was outwardly perfect, but underneath was a battlefield mined with secrets. Most explosive of all, Karin loved another man throughout her marriage and wanted to leave. But when her husband threatened to kill himself, she let her sense of duty win. All her energy was devoted to maintaining the image of a perfect marriage in a wonderful home with successful children. "Those who have lived surrounded by lies

love the truth," said the adult Bergman about his childhood. At the same time, growing up was the source of his creativity. Throughout his life, he tried to piece together the puzzle that had eluded him as a child. The boy Ingmar absorbed the ambience around him. He was clinging and squeamish and worshiped his mother endlessly. She reacted with irritation and concern. A pediatrician advised her to rebuff the boy's "morbid overtures." Ingmar figured out that feigned indifference was the surest road to his mother's heart. Another infallible way to obtain a little affection was to play sick. Early on, he developed stomach problems and insomnia. For his father, he needed other strategies. Erik Bergman was moody, depressive, withdrawn and quick to punish. The imaginative Ingmar discovered that lying was a way to escape. He was cunning and a skilled liar, but getting caught brought fearful consequences. The penalty always followed the same pattern: first confession to his mother or one of the housekeepers, then ostracism. After supper and coffee, new interrogation in his father's study. Then Ingmar had to fetch a carpet beater and pull down his pants. To obtain the final pardon, he had to kiss his father's hand. His

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father justified the beating by saying that the boy's fantasies had to be punished so that he would learn to distinguish between lies and reality! The ability to lie shaped Ingmar Bergman. Sometimes it was difficult to sort out what was his fictional self and what was his real one. In his directing work, that became an asset. By staging his nightmares, he could process them. But the contradiction between the Christian Gospel of love that the pastor drummed into him at home and his father's strict discipline remained a mystery. One bright spot in little Ingmar's life was Grandma Anna. Educated and wealthy, she was the one who opened his eyes to the arts. When she took Ingmar to the movies, she unknowingly staked out his future. The 1920s were the Golden Age of Swedish cinema, and the stunned six-year-old encountered directing giants like Victor Sjöström and Mauritz Stiller. In his room at home, he staged puppet shows and conducted experiments with images using his beloved Magic Lantern. In 1938, Bergman left the suffocating home of his parents where both his mother and older brother had made unsuccessful suicide attempts. He immersed himself in student theater and was intoxicated by freedom. Determined to write and direct, he devoted himself to world drama. One of his idols was August Strindberg, whose address he was later to call his own. Working at a furious pace, he staged performances at various theaters. The reputation of Bergman's talent spread, and he became the youngest theatrical manager in Sweden at the age of 25. Meanwhile, the Svensk Filmindustri studio bought a script he had written based on his own unpleasant memories of school. Torment (1944) was his first involvement in a movie, although he had to serve as an assistant to the director, Alf Sjöberg. His own debut as a movie director came two years later with Crisis, a film whose genesis can truly be described as a crisis. The inexperienced Bergman lost control and the film flopped. Whereby the world could have seen the end of his career before it even started, but he was miraculously offered a new chance by a producer willing to take a risk. Scorched by failure, Bergman learned all about practical filmmaking before taking on the new project. It Rains on Our Love (1946) was a success and the salvation for the con-

tinuation of his career. In quick succession, he directed A Ship Bound for India (1947), Music in Darkness (1947), Port of Call (1948) and Prison (1949), the latter from his own script. At the same time, he directed theater in Gothenburg and later in Malmö, where he also recruited several of the actors he would work with going forward. The 1950s were Ingmar Bergman's breakthrough, internationally as well. Movies like Summer with Monika (1953), Sawdust and Tinsel (1953), Smiles of a Summer Night (1955), The Seventh Seal (1957), Wild Strawberries (1957), The Magician (1958) and The Virgin Spring (1959) became world successes and Oscars and festival prizes in Cannes and elsewhere. The popularity of the movies was a bit of a mystery, though they are masterfully told. With heavy themes like the "silence of God," it would not have been surprising if the audiences had failed to show up. But the craze for existentialism and questions about human nature in the shadow of World War II gave Bergman a boost. It may have helped that he was among the first directors in the world to show naked female breasts on the silver screen. The whole time, his past held him in a firm grip. He who had fled his father's harsh discipline was himself increasingly authoritarian, often called the "demon director" for his fiery temperament and demanding personality. He was notorious for treating people ruthlessly and for his ability – preferably in public – to humiliate those with whom he was displeased. As head of the Royal Dramatic Theatre, Sweden's national theatre, his unofficial motto was, "Tell me something else I totally don’t care about." In the 1990s, it was revealed that, like his father and older brother, he had held strong sympathies for Adolf Hitler and Nazi Germany. In his personal life, one woman followed another. Five marriages and a series of relationships resulted in nine children whose upbringing he neglected, with a few exceptions. Sometimes the repercussions were drastic. His oldest son, who died in 2000, refused to allow his father to approach his deathbed. Bergman was not blind to his shortcomings. Quite the contrary. In his art, he never hesitated to scrutinize and examine his demons. In the 1960s, he took on the challenge of describing man's (and his own) darkest precipices. In a series of movies, he became a portrayer of the "unmentionable," that which no one had hith-

erto spoken of or even been able to formulate. Difficult-to-bear themes like a mother who is disgusted by her children (The Silence, 1963), and the unforgettable scene when a woman crushes a glass between her legs (Cries and Whispers, 1972) made him one of the world's most famous directors. The movies depict bourgeois environments and people from the middle class. Broken souls with abortive lives, whose frustrations and neuroses were recognized by audiences around the world at a time when more and more people begun to discover that the dark side of modernity and record economic growth was spiritual emptiness. At the same time, he sowed the seeds of the image of a Sweden populated by suicidal people and nymphomaniacs who were constantly wrestling with existential questions. Bergman's female characters are particularly complex, and a number of Swedish actresses can thank him for their success. Stars like Harriet Andersson, Ingrid Thulin, Liv Ullmann and Bibi Andersson made formidable efforts in classics like Through a Glass Darkly (1961), Winter Light (1962), Persona (1965), Hour of the Wolf (1966) and Shame (1967). Over the years, a kind of ensemble emerged and "Bergman actor" is still a concept in Swedish cinema and theater. Bergman was considered greatest in countries where a strong church, with associated double standards, claimed the exclusive right to discuss existential issues. In the United States and the Latin world, people were taken aback by the ruthless sincerity of his films. And once again he was a man of his times. The winds of change of the 1960s swept across the world, demanding a showdown with bourgeois decadence and mendacity. But all revolutions famously eat their own children. In an increasingly dogmatic political climate, Bergman was accused of belonging to the mendacious bourgeois class that he had exposed with such merciless clarity. The climax came in 1976 when he was picked up by the police in the middle of the rehearsal of a play. Accused of tax evasion (something he was later totally acquitted of), he was described in the media as a criminal. The humiliation led to a nervous breakdown and Bergman went into exile for six years. In Germany and Norway, he directed The Serpent's Egg in 1977 and Autumn Sonata in 1978, the latter with his namesake, Hollywood star Ingrid Bergman, in the lead role.

In 1982, he made a grand comeback at home. Fanny and Alexander is Bergman's cinematic testament, not only as his last movie, but because it is a far-reaching coming-to-terms with his childhood and family. Magnificently and lovingly, Bergman's recreates a childhood universe seen through a young boy's eyes. The boy’s father, a fearsome bishop, is depicted with little sense of reconciliation. "You will not be rid of me ..." his ghost says with an icy voice to the young protagonist in the final scene. Fanny and Alexander won no fewer than four Oscars in 1984. The last 25 years of his life after the death of his wife, Ingmar Bergman lived alone on a windswept island in the Baltic Sea, alone with his housekeeper. He remained extremely prolific, and worked right up to the end as a

theater director, playwright and screenwriter. In a Sweden that seldom embraces its geniuses, he enjoyed enormous respect, though sometimes jealously accused of inhibiting the younger generation of filmmakers through his very presence. Abroad, he is considered a cinematic giant alongside of names like Fellini and Kurosawa. Was he as a portrayer of something distinctly Swedish, or has the image of that which is Swedish been influenced by his work? The issue is similar to the question of the chicken and the egg. Anguish is notorious among all peoples, but perhaps it is the outspoken willingness to talk about the darkness that is typically Sweden. Even the Swedish national poet August Strindberg shared generously of his gloomy worldview. When Ingmar Bergman's personal prop-

erty was auctioned off after his death in 2007, a worn nightstand went for SEK 340,000. Its side was scribbled with anxious, sleepless thoughts and comments on horrific nightmares. In one corner, the words "AFRAID AFRAID AFRAID AFRAID AFRAID" had been written by the jittery hand of an old man but with the naked agony of a small child. And that’s just about the way it is: Swedish or not, Bergman was an uncompromisingly honest portrayer of his own most personal self, which made him universally human beyond any question of nationality. Then perhaps it is not a Swedish writer who will make that decision. One thing’s for sure, though – there were never any polar bears in his movies.

HOLGER BAGS High-quality, eco-friendly bags with a vintage look and modern interior, fitted with a built-in battery that charges your mobile devices wherever you are. Available at Åhlens City and NK. holgerbags.com

VINTAGE FEEL / MODERN CONTENT

f you're interested only in museums, cafes and stores, a Stockholm City Bike Card is all you need. But if you have a mountain bike, fixie, touring, downhill or road bicycle of your own or would like to rent a sophisticated model, Stockholm is replete with paths that will just fit the bill. A mountain bike will take you from the Central Station to Hellårsgården, a popular outdoor area to the southeast, in just 20 minutes. There you will find attractive, rolling terrain with a number of long, intersecting paths. Even if you get lost and end up in a pasture or field, just turn back and other bicyclists, joggers or hikers will point the way to the restaurant and cafe. And why not spend the night, enjoy a sauna or take a dip in the lake? If you still have enough strength on the way

back to town, you might want to ride up and down Hammarbytoppen once or twice, but you deserve a gold medal if you can make it a third time. If you're lucky on the weekend, the lifts will be in full swing and you can show off your prowess on a rented downhill bicycle. To the west of the city beckons Fornstigen between Bromma and Ekerö. The path is long and alluring with its combination of airiness, steep slopes and technical challenges. The blue markers, generally easy to follow, will bring you 18 kilometers back to your starting point. If you wander off on the side paths, though, you'll wind up going more than 25 kilometers, not to mention the initial ride from the city. If you're like me, you'll simply jump back up and take the main path a second time. Not a cafe in sight but plenty of lovely spots

and ancient remains to catch your breath at. The Gömmaren nature reserve, which starts at Segelstorp, features several paths south of the city. Continuing in the same direction through the woods to Flottsbro, another outdoor area, you will find a number of marked paths, not to mention a ski slope. If you have a enduro bicycle and are on your game, you might be able to handle the enduro path. At the bottom is a pleasant little restaurant where you can catch a cup of coffee before returning to the city. Tyresta National Park to the south might be the most beautiful spot in all of Stockholm. Even though some of the area does not allow cycling, you will be glad you made the trip. Nickspåret in Ursvik and the paths used for Lidingöloppet will also be worth your while. If you prefer thin slicks and asphalt, take

BICYCLING IN

STOCKHOLM BY GABRIEL KOTOWSKI

PHOTO– MICKE FRANSSON

While inner city traffic is not the most hospitable milieu, Stockholm has a lot to offer inveterate bicyclists by way of paths and roads a mere 20 minutes away.

the same road as to Fornstigen. Continue on towards Ekerö and keep to the right at the little roundabout in the direction of Färentuna. At this point, you have already traversed approximately 20 kilometers. Most of the remaining trip will be on paths and narrow roads, surrounded by magnificent scenery, a car every once in a while and plenty of other bicyclists to wave at. If you want to take a traditional tour on a racing bike, start in the central city and head out by way of Hellasgården. Go through Tyresö all the way to Nynäshamn and swerve off towards the city on Road 225 in the direction of Södertälje. Don't miss Rosenhill Cafe, where bicyclists in Lycra share hearty lunches with motorcyclists in leather. A good place to refill your water bottles. Your way back will take

PHOTO– PETER HOLGERSSON

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you on excellent roads through the woods. Keep to the right lane – you might see a few more cars at this point. Despite all the helpful signs, you may have trouble orienting yourself as Stockholm recedes behind you. If you have a Garmin or the equivalent, you can download tours that others have taken. Or call a bicycle club and ask when they have trainings. Fredrikshof IF arranges a number of sessions depending on your speed. Another option is to stop by a high-end bicycle store. You never know – someone there might want to join you after they close for the day. Participating in a formal race is another way of cycling in a group – also a good reason to go back to Stockholm. Velothon Stockholm, scheduled for September 13 this year, is your chance to bond with 3,000 others on the roads of Stockholm. You'll never feel more professional. Lidingöloppet, one of the biggest mountain bike races in Sweden, is fast and

easily navigated, depending on the distance you choose. And it starts only 30 minutes from the central city. The 300 kilometer Vätternrundan, which attracts 20,000 participants, is your cup of tea if you want to spend a lot of time with fellow enthusiasts. The only drawback is that it is in Motala, three hours by car from Stockholm. But it's worth the trek, particularly for the exhilaration you will feel afterwards. Make sure to reserve a hotel room – a car seat won't look very appealing right then. If you aren't fond of tight, functional uniforms, have a hipper, more youthful outlook and ride a fixie, a large, friendly community that offers semi-organized tours and alley cats will be glad to hear from you. Search for Sthlmess on Facebook or Instagram. I can't promise you anything, but they have been known to lend a bicycle or two and invite newcomers to boisterous parties.

PHOTO– PETER HOLGERSSON

PHOTO– MICKE FRANSSON

Price

Enjoy a day in the archipelago

375 SEK per person

Our cruise ships offer you an unforgettable day cruise from Stockholm to the Åland islands. Enjoy good food, Duty-Free shopping and a panorama view of the amazing archipelago. Viking Line Day Cruise (11 hrs) Stockholm–Mariehamn, including a generous buffet breakfast and a traditional Swedish smörgåsbord.

Book at Vikingline.se/panorama

CULTURE Calendar

CULTURE Calendar 2016

Inspiring cultural events around the city you should not miss out on

Apr 15 – Sep 25

The Legacy of Andy Warhol – Artipelag Where art meets nature. Explore this incredible museum and its surroundings and indulge in the legacy of this iconic artist. Andy Warhol was one of the twentieth century’s most significant artists. Warhol did not only leave an impression on art. His influence has affected many aspects of the modern lifestyle. The exhibit The Legacy of Andy Warhol seeks to reflect his multifaceted significance. artipelag.se operan.se

THE LEGACY OF ANDY WARHOL - ARTIPELAG . PHOTO: JEAN-BAPTISTE BÉRANGER

May 21 – Oct 2

Josef Frank at Millesgården - patterns, furniture and paintings The oasis that is Millesgården hosts a major exhibit in stunning surroundings, whereby the designer and artist Josef Frank (1885-1967) is put in an inspiring art history context. Anne’s House, featuring interior design by well-known Swedish Tenn and Josef Frank including furniture and fabrics, is open. Landscape architect Ulf Nordfjell creates summer flowerbeds and arrangements, beautifully inspired by Frank’s designs and paintings, which include a number of watercolor paintings, a previously unknown side of the designer. millesgarden.se JOSEF FRANK, STILL LIFE. PHOTO - MICHAEL SPALT

JOSEF FRANK, TEXTILE ”BUTTERFLY”.

Nov 26 – Dec 18

Skansen Christmas market Experience the spirit of a Swedish Christmas is at Skansen, Sweden’s largest outdoor museum. There is so much to see and do. Make your own Christmas decorations, taste freshly baked treats from the bakery, warm up at the bonfires, see the Nordic animals, dance around the Christmas tree and listen tolive music. The first Christmas market here, dates back to 1903. The market atmosphere is wonderful and the stalls overflow with Swedish handicrafts, sausages, sweets and more. This year it takes place over the advent weekends from 26-27 November to the 17-18 December 2016. skansen.se

SKANSEN 摄影–ANNA YU

Aug 24 –Sep 4

Ingmar Bergman International Theatre Festival – Royal Dramatic Theatre Bergmanfestivalen as it is known in Swedish is an international theater festival established by the Royal Dramatic Theatre (Kungliga Dramaten) in 2009. Highlighting contemporary, national and international theater and performances in the spirit of legendary Ingmar Bergman. The festival is a meeting place where different cultures and expressions can meet, share and explore the arts at the 11-day festival this year, held at the theater in Stockholm with a range of international guest performances, as well as the theater’s own festival productions. dramaten.se SONS OF KEMET / STOCKHOLMS JAZZFESTIVAL. PHOTO-TOM BARNES.

FALLA UR TIDEN. SUZANNE OSTEN. PHOTO ROGER STENBERG

HEDDA GABLER. PHOTO - SÖREN VILKS

Oct 7 - 15

Stockholms Jazzfestival One of Sweden's oldest festivals and Stockholm's biggest jazz events. It has a great reputation in the music world and is considered one of the most well-kept and friendly festivals in the world. Established in 1980, this festival has hosted some of the best international and Nordic musicians in the the world such as Chuck Corea, BB King, Nina Simone, Ella Fitzgerald and some local bands, namely, Nils Landgren, Monica Zetterlund and more. The festival is spread out over a number of venues throughout the city. For more about the venues and and the program: stockholmjazz.com

CORY HENRY, THE REVIVAL & THE FUNK APOSTLES / STOCKHOLMS JAZZFESTIVAL

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Wherever you want to go whilst in Sweden, we have the car to take you there. Get the best possible prices at europcar.com

Museums WELL WORTH A VISIT Explore the many museums Stockholm has to offer. Here are some of our favourites.

PHOTO - JOHAN STÅHLBERG

Paul Svensson, culinarian at the Fotografiska restaurant, nominated as the best mediumclass eatery in town at the All About Stockholm competition. The World Wildlife Fund sings the praises of its sustainable, dependable selection and services.

Fotografiska

The Treasury

You can't get more popular than this. Fotografiska in Stockholm is a world-class museum where everything revolves around photography but with so much more to tickle your mind and senses. There's always an exciting new exhibit for you to feast your eyes on, not to mention an excellent shop and a prizewinning restaurant with its chef from a well-known TV cooking show. Open more hours a year than any museum you have ever heard of, Fotografiska has won acclaim and attracted visitors from far and wide. While the museum is certainly the place to go if you are looking for the latest and most provocative photography, it is also a watering hole for people who love all kinds of beauty and culture. With their magnificent view of Stockholm and Old Town, the salons in the restaurant and cafe on the top floor are fashionable hangouts during the winter. The sidewalk cafe just outside the entrance beckons with its promise of gastronomic delight all summer long. Hours: 9 am to 11 pm every day of the year, with the exception of Midsummer's Eve and Christmas Eve. fotografiska.eu

In dark cellar vaults at the Royal Palace the monarchy's most important symbols - the regalia - are kept in safe-keeping. Here you can see Gustav Vasa´s sword of state, Erik XIV´s crown, sceptre and orb and Lovisa Ulrika´s crown. Several of The Princes and Princesses' crowns are also on view as well as the silver baptismal font from 1696, which is still used at royal baptisms. Everywhere you look you will see fascinating and exclusive art, steeped in exciting history. Previously, the regalia could only be seen at the opening of parliament and other formal state ceremonies. However, since 1970, they are now permanently exhibited in the Treasury. The oldest preserved objects are two swords of state belonging to Gustav Vasa that are exhibited in the Treasury's inner sanctuary. The oldest preserved crown belongs to Erik XIV. kungahuset.se

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PHOTO - MARIE ANDERSSON

Skansen OPEN AIR MUSEUM, RESTAURANTS, SHOPS and ZOO

Travel back in time and experience the Sweden of the past – Skansen is the world’s oldest open-air museum, founded in 1891. Historical buildings are surrounded by beautiful gardens and a profusion of flowers from all over Sweden.

skansen.se

Skansen is also Stockholm’s only zoo, with Nordic wild animals and native Swedish breeds. During the summer, there is a wide selection of concerts, folk music, dances, and various theme days. Dance around the maypole and

join one of the best Midsummer celebrations, celebrated here annually. Everyone is welcome. Enjoy a delicious meal in one of the restaurants or buy genuine Swedish handicrafts in the museum shop. Skansen is open all year round.

Vasa Museum

PHOTO - KAROLINA KRISTENSSON / THE SWEDISH NATION MARITIME MUSEUMS

The Vasa is the only seventeenth century ship preserved in the world. Ninety-five percent of it is original, and it is adorned with hundreds of carved sculptures. The salvaging of the Vasa was a historic moment, and today Sweden is able to boast of a treasure that is unique in the world. The ship is displayed in a specially constructed museum in Stockholm. The Vasa is surrounded by 11 different exhibits, a well-stocked museum shop and a first-class restaurant. Tours of the museum are conducted daily, and they can now be experienced in a new way through audio tours. There are 15 stations designated around the museum with 15 different soundtracks that you can download directly to your device or MP3 player. A video about the Vasa is available in 16 languages. The Vasa Museum is the most frequently visited museum in Scandinavia, and the Vasa alone can be worth a trip to Stockholm. vasamuseet.se

PHOTO - BJÖRN OLIN / IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

The City Hall of Stockholm Politicians and unique art treasures gather under City Hall’s coat-of-arms adorned tower. Every year in the Blue Hall (which in fact is not blue), guests in festive evening attire gather for the formal Nobel Banquet, followed by dancing in the Golden Hall. This stunning hall is made up of over 18 million gold mosaics. The only way to ensure that you do not miss this magnificent, national Romantic style building is to take one of the guided tours offered year round. In the shop you find representative products for Stockholm and Sweden. In the summer, you can also visit the tower with its fantastic view of Stockholm. You can download the audio guide ”Stockholm City Hall exterior and garden tour” for free to your smartphone or tablet from the GuidiGO app prior to your visit. stockholm.se/stadshuset

Drottningholm Palace Drottningholm Palace is among the best-preserved royal palaces from the 17th century and is representative of all European royal architecture from that period. The unique layout of the palace includes the exotic Chinese Pavilion pleasure palace, the palace theater and the magnificent palace gardens. The palace was commissioned by Queen Hedvig Eleonora and built by architect Nicodemus Tessin the older. It has been the Swedish royal family’s permanent residence since 1981. Visit some of these gems as a complement to your Stockholm trip. Outside of Stockholm’s urban core are many lovely towns, as well as the islands of the archipelago. Hop on the subway or buy a ticket to one of the archipelago ferries, and discover another, greater Stockholm. In the app ”GuidiGO” there is an audio guide, in six languages, about the UNESCO World Heritage Drottningholm which you can download prior tor your visit.

kungahuset.se

OLA ERICSON/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

Sweden Selected recommends

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My Stockholm Pass Top 10: Vasa Museum, the Royal Palace, Fotografiska, the Royal Canal Boat Tour, Junibacken, Free trips on Hop On - Hop Off buses and boats for as long as your pass is valid, Panorama sightseeing by bus, the Nobel Museum, Fotografiska, and boat trips to Drottningholm Palace.

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