savour Welcome to
A celebration of North-east food and drink WINTER 2012 ISSUE
03
contacts www.issuu.com/savour
MACKINTOSH MEDIA Savour is produced by Mackintosh Media Ltd. Regent Quay House, Regent Quay, Aberdeen AB11 5BE.
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You may think it rather strange but winter is probably my favourite season. It makes no promises so you’re never really disappointed and there’s something really exhilarating about wrapping up and walking on a crisp, blue-skied winter’s day. Then, of course, there is the delicious food. It’s really comforting stuff, with piping hot pies, roast dinners, chunky soups and heart-warming stews. In this issue, our recipes reflect the season and the festivities, with amazing pork, chicken, goose and salmon dishes you can try at home. Our resident wine connoisseur Carol Brown shares with us her recommendations for accompanying your Christmas meal and in our ‘Break Away’
pages we venture to the Kingdom of Fife and the highly acclaimed Peat Inn and Ruffles Hotel. River Cottages’ Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall and baker supreme Paul Hollywood offer their books for review (an ideal gift), but most of all, there’s lots of information on your local area – great food, amazing produce and brilliant chefs. It’s also a time to make the best of Aberdeen’s snug cafes, pubs and restaurants and to visit the local farmers’ markets throughout The Shire with their stalls of tempting produce. We look forward to dishing out more fabulous recipes and serving up more news and views in the New Year. Enjoy the festivities.
SALES
Steve Mackintosh T: +44 (0) 1224 288981 E: steve@mackintoshmedia.co.uk
If you would like a newsletter or brochure written and designed, company re-branding, logo creation, exhibition and display graphics or menu design contact our creative team on (01224) 288982.
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Smoked Mackerel Pate accompanied by a cucumber & shallot relish and chili infused oatcakes. Ingredients Smoked mackerel pate: 250g hot-smoked mackerel fillet, skinned • 2 teaspoons freshly grated horseradish root • Zest of one lemon • 1 teaspoon caster sugar • 1 tablespoon lemon juice, or to taste • Thinly chopped chives • A handful of dill, finely chopped • 100g Crème fraîche • Pinch of salt Cucumber and shallot relish: 1 cucumber sliced • 1 shallot fine diced • 1/2 red chili sliced • Juice of 2 lime • 2 tbsp. caster sugar • 1/2 tsp. sea salt • 1 small handful fresh coriander chopped • 1 small handful fresh mint chopped • Add all ingredients together • Salad leaves to dress • Oatcakes
Method Put half the mackerel in a food processor with the horseradish, crème fraîche, sugar and lemon juice and blend until smooth. Break up the remaining fish into flakes and stir it into the blended mixture with the pepper and dill. Add more lemon juice to taste, if necessary. To serve: Spoon the pate into kilner jars; place the relish on some salad leaf, maybe peppery rocket. And have loads of oatcakes
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ingredients
Front cover image courtesy of Simon Wheeler
A celebration of North-east food and drink WINTER 2012 ISSUE
CONTENT
30
49
The Whyte Stuff
p10/11
Keith Whyte, Mitchells Dairy speaks out
Gluten Free
p12
Dealing with gluten intolerance
Festive Fayre
p14/15
Find your local farmer’s market
Wines Uncorked
28
17
p18/19
Christmas wines reccomended
The Talented Toff
p30/31
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
And The Winners Are...
34
38
58
p44/45
The Highland and Islands Food Awards
Break-away
p52/53
In the beautiful kingdom of Fife
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Remote hotel takes cheese award A small, remote Highland hotel, recently featured in ‘Savour’ magazine, has picked up the gong for the Best British Cheeseboard Award 2012. Perhaps most rewarding is that the Summer Isles Hotel in Achiltibuie makes its own cheeses which are used on the award-winning cheeseboard as well as its own sausages, salami and sea salt. The hotel has a minimum of 13 cheeses on its cheese trolley, served towards the end of a six course table d’hôtel dinner. It has continued to impress after it won the Scottish section of the British Cheeseboard Awards last year. The prize is the longest running and most prestigious award set up to acknowledge and honour the best quality, selection and inspiring British cheeseboard. It was voted for by cheese makers, cheese lovers and diners from across the UK. Given its remote location in the North West Highlands, 80% of the produce used at the Summer Isles Hotel is sourced from within a 30 mile radius. It rears its own Highland cattle and Hebridean and Shetland lamb on the foreshore or nearby fields. Situated an hours drive from Ullapool, the hotel is accessed via a 10-mile single track road and looks out over the strand to the Summer Isles, with breath-taking views of the Outer Hebrides and spectacular Torridon mountain range.
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News Bites...
Jamie’s Italian leads to added interest in area
Construction work has been recently completed on the external fabric of the building and fit-out work for Jamie’s Italian are due to commence shortly. The new restaurant is set to open in early 2013.
Leading property consultant CBRE has announced the successful completion of a letting at 38 Union Street, Aberdeen on behalf of landlord C&L Properties. Jamie’s Italian restaurant has taken a two-level unit comprising 7,470 sq ft. This will be the first Jamie’s Italian restaurant in Aberdeen and follows the successful launch of sites in Glasgow and Edinburgh. 26-38 Union Street is the site of the former Esslemont and MacIntosh department store, one of Aberdeen’s best known retail landmarks.
Derren McRae, Managing Director of CBRE’s Aberdeen office, commented: “Jamie’s Italian was drawn to this site due to its high profile location in the heart of the city centre in addition to the character and retail history behind this building. This particular area of Aberdeen city centre has benefited from the regeneration of a number of high profile sites including the stunning redevelopment of Marischal College for Aberdeen City Council’s new HQ, and developments on Shiprow which have also brought new office, hotel and leisure occupiers to the area. “On the back of the Jamie’s Italian letting we have received a high level of interest in the remaining retail and restaurant space in the development and hope to announce further lettings soon.”
It’s More for Your Dollar 10 Dollar Shake have just announced the
cocktail menu featuring contributions
launch of their first bar/restaurant, The
from bartenders around the globe and a
Tippling House, which recently opened in
wine list championing unsung regions
Aberdeen.
and forgotten grape varieties.
The late-night venue on Belmont Street
Adrian says “Although the industry as a
offers
hand-crafted
whole is going through a difficult period,
cocktails and Scottish regional beers in a
those venues with a service-focused
vintage tavern-style environment.
concept, high level of consistency and
The venture is headed up by Adrian
quirky food & drink offerings are
Gomes, an award-winning bartender and
continuing to buck the trend.�
casual-dining,
hospitality business operator. His idea for the bar had been in the pipeline for a number of years with inspiration drawn from research trips to New York, London,
7
In 2010, Adrian founded 10 Dollar Shake, a cocktail catering company. The success of which has allowed the project to get off the ground. Additional funding was
Montreal, Toronto and Barcelona.
secured when good friend Andrew The
result
is
a
traditional
venue
Samways CA joined the business.
incorporating authentic design features, such as reclaimed maritime lighting
Complementing the creative bar team is
(tippling houses were underground
Chris Tonner of Beetroot Restaurants, who
taverns in 18th century Jamaican ports),
has taken the Executive Chef role in the
imported ceiling tiles from the US and a
kitchen.
custom-built stainless steel bar. The
regional produce, Chris has created a
concept offers late-night dining options,
modern take on traditional and colonial
table service throughout the evening, a
cuisine.
Using local suppliers and
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Turkey, Trimmings and Treats Are you one of those poor unfortunates whose forthcoming festivities are blighted by the fact you’ve drawn the short straw this year and the success of Christmas dinner rests on your shoulders? Don’t worry! There’s a fairy Godmother, and indeed Godfather, waiting for you in Aberdeen’s Schoolhill……Oh yes there is!!
Haigs Food Hall 45-51 Schoolhill Aberdeen, AB10 1JT
01224 638525 www.haigsdirect.co.uk savour Winter 2012
Julie and James Haig run the independently owned family business HAIGS and are only too eager to assist you make this Christmas something special. Not only can they guide you through what you’ll require, but they can supply it too. You can begin by ordering your fresh turkey and saving money on their box deals which also includes lean pork sausage meat, oatmeal stuffing, cocktail sausages and streaky bacon. Should you prefer you can order a turkey breast joint with the same extras and collect, whichever you choose, on the 23rd December, ensuring everything is nice and fresh. If turkey is not for you, or you’d like a break from tradition, James, a Master Butcher with many years’ experience, will help you choose from some mouthwatering fresh cut joints of meat, which would captivate any festive guest. But it doesn’t stop there! Haigs can also supply all your vegetables, breads and sauces and even a selection of cheeses to round off that special meal.
Flushed with your Christmas success why not get the family round on New Year’s Day for an award winning steak pie made on the premises or a tasty beef or gammon joint. Mmm…..Can’t you smell it now? Speaking of New Year, you can pick up some quirky and original gifts for ‘firstfooting’. There are selections of shortbread, jams and chocolates which would make an ideal gift or indeed, that little extra in a Christmas stocking. The festivities are quickly followed by Burns Night so get your haggis and ‘neeps’ from this amazing Food Hall. The haggis is local and was caught by a Huntly supplier ready to ooze its gushing entrails bright, warm-reekin, rich! Yum! However, you don’t have to wait for a special occasion to visit Haigs. They have regular amazing offers such as 3 for £10.00 on their fresh meat, including such favourites as lean pork sausage, lean steak mince, pork loin steaks and fresh chicken fillets. They also have great lunchtime deals from as little as £3.50, such as a freshly made sandwich and cup of delicious soup. Amazing value! The moral of this tale is to avoid a pantomime in your home this festive season by paying a visit to Haigs Food Hall. You’ll have a ball!
Great Value Garioch Grocer The Green Grocer, located on Inverurie’s West High Street, is a modern take on the traditional grocer’s shop, combining personal service with an extensive range of products. Focusing on local foods and wholefoods, The Green Grocer offers a viable alternative to supermarkets - and by carrying out regular price comparisons, The Green Grocer can show to customers that large multiples aren’t always cheaper. Connie Sorrie of The Green Grocer said: “We produce Ola Oil, Scotland’s original cold pressed rapeseed oil, on farm in Inverurie, and saw the shop was on the market. As if we weren’t busy enough, we took over the shop in March 2011 and since then we’ve renovated it to make it more welcoming and easier to browse.
We’ve kept all the products previously stocked but added a large variety of local produce. “We offer a weekly veg box service and this is proving extremely popular: wherever possible, our produce is sourced locally and this means it’s much fresher than the fruit and vegetables found in supermarkets. We keep a close eye on price too and we’re consistently cheaper than supermarkets for much of our fresh produce.” A browse round the shop shows that venison, bacon, cheese, fish, jams, eggs, cooked meats, oil, home bakes, oatmeal, yoghurts and more all come from within a 25 mile radius of the shop. As well as local produce, the shop has a wide range of wholefoods and also stocks
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a large range of dairy-free and gluten free products. Connie added: “We find an increasing number of people looking for dairy free or gluten free items; often through choice but in many cases through intolerance and we’ve increased our stock of these types of products.” Another interesting line in the shop is the range of homebrew kits and equipment. Connie explained: “The shop used to carry homebrewing equipment but we’ve tried to make it easier to browse. The kits are really cost effective and some of them result in a pint of beer costing less than 40p!” The Green Grocer is located at 76 West High Street Inverurie. Find out more at www.facebook.com/inveruriegreengrocer or call 01467 620245.
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Digesting the Whyte Stuff Established in 1928 Mitchells is still a family owned and managed business in Inverurie. Their “dairy” shop and tearoom are renowned for offering the very best of local produce, and together with their doorstep and wholesale milk distribution arm of the business, employ 70 staff servicing Aberdeen City and Shire. ‘Savour’ chats to Keith Whyte, Business Partner, about the business and the tough environment in which he trades. Q: We all know the market is tough at the moment. Do you find producers have to diversify to find new revenue streams? A: Markets for most industries are challenging at the moment and food is no exception. We as a business constantly have to look at the market and where it is heading. As a relatively small family run business we do not have the economies of scale to compete head on with the bigger players and need to be reliant on offering the very best service and quality products to be able to offer our customers the best value where we can.
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There’s definitely more to value than just price! Diversifying into new markets can be a high risk strategy to adopt, but in turn with that can come high reward. It is true that doing the same thing all the time will just get you the same results, so looking for new markets is key to future growth for any business. There are some great examples of diversifying from your core range out there at the moment with crisps, chocolate, wine, cheese and yogurts all being produced by traditional farm type businesses who saw a gap in the market and have gone for it. Q: The local independent food retailers seem to be having a bit of resurgence as shoppers are beginning to understand the advantages over a supermarket. Do you find evidence of this? A: Local independent retails like ourselves who have been here a long time have relied on local quality, seasonality and taste of the food we have. We pride ourselves in helping producers get a foot
on the supply ladder so to speak and being able to offer our customers something first on the market is always satisfying. That said, the success within Mitchells often leads to the producer getting a listing with the multiples which, while good for them and market growth, can reduce sales for us. The multiples are copying the independent retail model now, looking to attract more customers in through their doors with their emphasis on a local range, having seen that customers do want to shop for local produce. We encourage our suppliers to come in and meet with our customers, offering tastings and taking the time to introduce themselves – people do business with people and if you can form a relationship with your customer then they will want to choose your product and shop in “their” shop. That’s why our dedicated staff is so important in everything that we do here at Mitchells, from the milkman delivering the milk through the night, to a smiling face with a welcome in the shop or at the counter in the tearoom. Making the
11 in the world too at times. Maintaining a viable agricultural industry here in Grampian is paramount going forward. People will always need to eat and cheapening food is never a good thing – there! I’ll get off my soap box now. Q: There now seems to be growing evidence that, with little calorific difference between full fat milk and semi-skimmed milk the former is actually better for us. Is the balance set to change?
customer feel like Mitchells is part of them is what our business relationship with them is all about. Q: It is no secret dairy farmers are up in arms about what they receive for milk production. Your thoughts? A: Prices are starting to move in the right direction for dairy farmers, however, unfortunately, no sooner does it go up than all the other costs catch up too. If people only took time to realise just what goes into producing their fresh jug of milk in terms of breeding the cattle, looking after and feeding them until they are old enough to milk, milking them, pasteurising the milk, distributing it to the shops and keeping it chilled and fresh, I am sure they would have no issues with paying a fair market price. After all when a bottle of water costs twice as much as a bottle of milk something is desperately wrong. Believe it or not in some areas of the UK home produced milk is becoming a scarce commodity as more and more dairy farmers switch out of cows and into producing food that they can at least make a positive return on. It does concern us as a business when a lot of the time people tend to think short term with their wallets when times are difficult and always look for the lowest prices, even if it means milk, beef, lamb and pork comes from the south of England, or elsewhere
A: Full fat milk, or whole milk as I prefer to call it, is only 3.6% fat and semi skimmed is only 1.5% fat so we really are talking about nature’s own low fat healthy drink. Of the nearly 65,000 litres of milk we sell each week, 3/4 of it is in the form of semi-skimmed and when we ask our customers why they choose semi they say it is really just down to a matter of taste. Milk is a naturally healthy drink and if anything, I think the amount of whole milk drunk will actually reduce, but funnily enough despite this everyone still enjoys a bit of fresh cream now and again with their pudding! Q: Mitchells are so much more than a dairy with a reputable restaurant and oatcakes that are legendary. Any plans in the offing for a new product? A: Thanks for that comment on our oatcakes which are still made to the same recipe as they were back in 1928 when Great Granny Mitchell and her husband started the whole business off. They are still made by hand on our girdles every day and there can be few better smells out there than those of a freshly baking oatcake to get the taste buds going. When a local supplier first started making cold pressed oilseed rape oil here in Inverurie we made some of our oatcakes using their Ola oil to offer something different to our customers and while many have copied our idea, customers still recognise ours are the best tasting out there. We do have some plans for new products which are in the testing stages at the moment, so look out for them in the future, but be assured they still have quality local produce at the
heart of them. At this time of year hamper gifts for clients, customers and family are very much on people’s minds and we are going to be busy making up and delivering orders all over the country. It’s great to have such a wide selection of quality locally produced food and drink here in our shop available to promote the Grampian region. We are always quite taken aback at some of the really complimentary comments from those sending and receiving them. It’s something we have been doing for nearly 20 years now and we like to think we have done our bit at helping to promote all we have to offer here from Grampian’s great producers. Q: Inverurie is certainly not the sleepy market town it once was. Large national companies have descended on the town to meet the demands of a growing population. Is the local independent trader doing enough to ensure survival? A: As you quite rightly point out, Inverurie has grown over the past few years and we are fortunate that despite the influx of the national companies - who see it as an opportunity to make more money for their shareholders - there still is a place for the independent retailer. Inverurie launched a successful campaign for businesses, Inverurie 4 U, which has brought together a number of independent businesses to promote themselves and remind customers just how important having a local retailer is, giving that all important mix and choice of shopping for the customer. The draw of people that the national companies bring to a town such as Inverurie is valuable for all business and local companies quite rightly have grasped the opportunities of the additional footfall, offering great products and services with that all important local approach. “Use them or lose them” though is still the message that customers need to be reminded of if Inverurie wants to continue to be a great place for folk to shop.
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Gluten Free and Dealing with Gluten Intolerence Coeliac disease, also known as gluten intolerance can range from the classic features, such as diarrhoea, weight loss, and malnutrition, to latent symptoms such as isolated nutrient deficiencies but no gastrointestinal symptoms. Those affected suffer damage to their intestines when they eat specific food-grain antigens that are found in wheat, rye, and barley. Oats have traditionally been considered to be toxic to celiacs, but recent scientific studies have shown otherwise. This research is on-going, however, and it may be too early to draw solid conclusions. Because of the broad range of symptoms coeliac disease presents, it can be difficult to diagnose. The symptoms can range from mild weakness, bone pain, and aphthous stomatitis to chronic diarrhoea, abdominal bloating, and progressive weight loss. If a person with the disorder continues to eat gluten, studies have shown that he or she will increase their chances of gastrointestinal cancer by a factor of 40 to 100 times that of the normal population. It is therefore imperative that the disease is quickly and
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properly diagnosed so it can be treated as soon as possible. At the moment the only acceptable treatment for celiac disease is strict adherence to a 100% gluten-free diet for life. An adherence to a gluten-free diet can prevent almost all complications caused by the disease. A gluten-free diet means avoiding all products that contain wheat, rye and barley, or any of their derivatives. This is a difficult task as there are many hidden sources of gluten found in the ingredients of many processed foods. Following a gluten free diet makes sense if you are a Coeliac Disease sufferer. As a healthy lifestyle option, if you can’t (or don’t want to) eat food that contains gluten, you might struggle to find products that are suitable. Andrew Gordon Butchery & Fine Foods at Chattan Place, Aberdeen has always been involved with food innovation and healthy eating with a Gluten Free presence every day in the fresh meat counters. Andrew’s team are also well versed in showing anyone who asks what the range is on the day with a daily extensive range of fresh meats which are
naturally Gluten Free. Andrew Gordon regularly hosts exclusive evening shopping events with the biggest & best gluten free range of meat produce in Aberdeen & Shire. Andrew Gordon Butchery & Fine Foods is a registered partner of the Coeliac Society UK & works seamlessly with the local Coeliac Group. A huge trust has been established between Andrew’s business & the surrounding Gluten Free community. Andrew’s business also holds a highly prestigious Eat Safe Award. You don’t need to have Coeliac Disease to enjoy Gluten Free food either. Andrew has a large following on ‘Twitter @AberdeenButcher’ & Facebook - Andrew Gordon Award Winning Butchery & Fine Foods - of people who are very health conscious and prefer to eat Gluten Free, knowing that they can trust Andrew & his team to use the best Gluten Free ingredients. Each purchase can be accompanied with some cooking guidance and further information, the type you can only get from your local independent butcher.
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Meatballs with herb salad
These lightly spiced “gluten free” meatballs contain a surprise within Ingredients For the meatballs: • 8 cardamom pods • 2 tsp coriander seed • 4 large cloves garlic • large pinch salt • 300g/11oz lean Andy Gordon beef mince • 200g/7oz pork mince • half tsp turmeric • chilli powder, to taste • 1 free-range egg; beaten • 1-2 tbsp groundnut oil • 115g/4oz cream cheese • 200g/7oz baby plum tomatoes, cut in half lengthways • 1 tbsp plain yoghurt • 2-3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves • 2 tbsp flaked almonds, toasted • 4 shallots, finely sliced and deep-fried For the salad: • 150g/5.5oz mixed salad leaves • 2 tbsp finely chopped mint leaves • 2 tbsp finely chopped chives • 2 tbsp finely chopped flat leaf parsley • 2 tbsp finely chopped oregano • 1 tsp white wine vinegar • 1 tsp English mustard • 3 tbsp olive oil
Method 1. For the meatballs, take the seeds out of cardamom, place into a coffee grinder or pestle and mortar with the coriander and grind to a fine powder. Chop the garlic with the salt until it forms a paste, or add it to the pestle and mortar. 2. Place the beef and pork into a bowl and mix together vigorously to soften the texture – this will help stop the cheese escaping. 3. Add the ground spices, turmeric, chilli powder and garlic then mix really well with your hands and add the beaten egg. 4. Wet your hands, take pieces of the mixture and form into meatballs the size of ping-pong balls. You should have about 12 meatballs. 5. Lightly oil a clean work surface with a little of the groundnut oil and gently press the balls into flattened circles. 6. Put a teaspoon of cream cheese in the centre of each meat circle and carefully bring the meat up round it to enclose the cheese completely, making rather larger meatballs. Roll gently and make sure there are no holes. 7. Heat a frying pan until hot, add the remaining oil and fry the meatballs for 10 minutes over medium high heat, turning regularly. Place the meatballs into a serving dish and keep warm. 8. Turn the heat right up then add the tomatoes to the pan, flash-fry them quickly then remove the pan from the heat and stir in the the yoghurt. 9. For the salad, toss together the leaves and herbs in a large bowl. Whisk the vinegar, mustard and olive oil together and season with salt and black pepper, then toss together with the salad leaves. 10. To serve, arrange the salad around the edge of a platter then place the meatballs in the centre. Pour the tomatoes over the meatballs and garnish with the chopped coriander, almonds and fried shallots.
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Huntly Farmers Market Since their launch in Scotland over 10 years ago, Farmers’ Markets have become a familiar sight on the high street. Aberdeenshire is no exception with 10 markets and over 60 producers registered with Aberdeenshire Council. Huntly Farmers’ Market was set up in 2006 to provide producers with an affordable way of selling their products. Huntly has a wealth of excellent food and craft producers; Mortlach Game, Huntly Herbs, The Devenick Dairy, Glenview Market Garden & Charlie Bruce from Bogside Farm Shop are among some of the regular stall holders. Huntly also offers a free stall per market to local charities and organisations and runs a sponsored stall scheme to encourage entrepreneurs to set up their own business. Huntly Farmers’ Market takes place on the 1st Saturday of every month from 9am - 1pm. You can find out more about Huntly Farmers’ Market on their website www.huntlyfarmersmarket.co.uk or e-mail huntlyherbs@hotmail.com to subscribe to the monthly newsletter.
Featured Producer – Mortlach Game Mortlach Game is a wild venison and small game processing facility which was created in 2006 to offer finest quality, fresh, inseason wild venison and game to discerning customers. Mortlach Game mainly produce mature and prepared cuts of locallysourced wild venison, but also offer wild rabbit, woodpigeon, partridge and pheasant when in season. All venison is sourced from sustainably managed estates, where traditional, best practice methods and skills are in operation. Venison and small game are sourced locally, thus helping to keep the food miles low (distance produce travels). Mortlach Game is focused on producing a quality product. Their average venison output is less than one animal per working day, which allows them to concentrate on ensuring that the venison is hung, handled and prepared in the best manner possible. You can find out more about Mortlach Game on their website www.mortlachgame.co.uk.
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Farmers’ Markets can be found at: 1. ABERDEEN - last Saturday of the month 9am-5pm. 2. ALFORD - 4th Saturday of the month 9am-1pm. 3. BANCHORY - 3rd Saturday of the month 9am-1pm. 4. HUNTLY - 1st Saturday of the month 9am-1pm. 5. INVERURIE - 2nd Saturday of the month 9am-1pm. 6. MACDUFF - Last Saturday of the month 9am-12.30 pm. 7. PETERHEAD - 1st Saturday of the month 10am-3pm. 8. STONEHAVEN - 1st Saturday of the month 9am-1pm. 9. TURRIFF - 3rd Saturday of the month 9am-12.30pm. 10. WESTHILL - 1st Saturday of the month 9am-1pm
Venison Casserole Venison Casserole is a lovely, warming dish that will heat you up on the coldest of winter days. For more recipes like this go to The Huntly Farmers’ Market or Mortlach Game website. This Recipe serves 4.
Ingredients • 500g venison, diced • Rape seed oil • 1 onion, chopped • 1 clove of garlic, peeled • 2 carrots, sliced • 350ml red wine • 1 desert spoon of tomato puree • 100ml orange juice • 1 heaped tea spoon of red currant jelly • Beef stock • 200g of mushrooms, sliced • 1 dessert spoon of fresh thyme.
Method Heat oil in shallow pan and brown venison before removing from pan. Add onions and cook until they turn soft, then add the clove of garlic. Add the carrots and cook for a few minutes. Pour in the red wine (use less if you prefer a less robust sauce), stir in the tomato puree, orange juice, redcurrant jelly and then the thyme. Add salt and pepper to taste. Return the venison to the pan with the mushrooms and stir. Transfer to an ovenproof dish and add stock to cover. Put lid on dish and cook at 150C for 2 hours. Remove clove of garlic before serving.
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In Season Winter is a great time to stock up on rustic vegetables and gamey meat, while sea bass is at its best this time of year. Lobster, sea bass, scallops and halibut also come into their own in January and February. Sourcing a seasonal spread for Christmas is simple at this period. Turkey is of course in season; however why not consider a different bird for the table - grouse, wild duck or pheasant for example. A number of vegetables are at their best in winter, such as parsnips and celery. And look forward to the fleshy innards of ruby red pomegranate fruits, which appear in December and work beautifully as a garnish or to flavour stews.
FRUIT - Apples, Pears, Pomegranate, Pumpkin. VEG - Broccoli (green), Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Kale, Leeks, Mushrooms, Parsnips, Red Cabbage, Shallots, Spinach, Spring greens, Sprouts, Swede, Turnips, Winter squash GAME Grouse, Partridge, Pheasant, Venison, Wild Duck, Wild Salmon. FISH & SEAFOOD - Sea
December
bass. HERBS - Fennel, Garlic. MEAT & POULTRY - Goose, Hill Lamb, Turkey.
FRUIT - Forced rhubarb, Pears. VEG - Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Kale, Leeks, Mushrooms, Parsnips, Shallots, Squash, Turnips. GAME - Wild Salmon, Venison, Wild Duck, Pheasant, Partridge. FISH & SEAFOOD - Lobster, Scallops.
January
HERBS - Fennel, Garlic. MEAT & POULTRY - Goose, Hill Lamb, Turkey.
FRUIT - Early rhubarb. VEG - Broccoli (purple), Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Chicory, Kale, Leeks, Mushrooms, Parsnips, Shallots, Squash. GAME - Wild Salmon, Venison. FISH & SEAFOOD - Halibut, Lobster, Mussels. HERBS - Parsley.
February savour Winter 2012
MEAT & POULTRY - Goose, Guinea Fowl.
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Eat the Beet An aphrodisiac for the Romans, a symbol of love among the pagans and the cause of unbudgeable stains for the rest of us — beetroot may ruin your new white shirt but it could just rescue your health. A recent study revealed the beneficial role beetroot plays during exercise — now the humble beet is the latest superfood on everyone's lips. If you love the sweet, earthy flavour of beets, then eat up. Colourful fruit and veg, especially red and purple ones, are sources of antioxidants. Fresh beetroot has an overstated colour with an understated flavour, making it perfect for a salad or livening up a meal. Too often associated with harsh-tasting vinegary pickles, beetroot is best raw, roasted or lightly cooked. DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK BEETROOT: Experiment by cooking beetroot whole, trimming the stalks to about 3cm above the bulb. Don't bother peeling or trimming the tail - that way, the intense maroon colour won't be lost from the beetroot. Baking or roasting develops beetroot's true flavour, and oven cooking is especially suited to larger bulbs.
to cut very fine slices adding sophistication to your plate. WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Small beetroot, often known as baby beets, have a particularly delicate flavour. Choose firm bulbs with fresh, green leafy tops. The stalks are pleasant to eat and can be cooked in the same way as spring greens or spinach. If the skin is damaged, the colour bleeds out from the beetroot while it cooks - so do look for unblemished beets. It's best to steer clear of beetroot larger than 6cm in diameter they may have a tough woody core. Golden beetroot used to be popular in the nineteenth century, and is currently enjoying a revival in upmarket restaurants. It has a more subtle flavour than regular beets and doesn't leave any stains on fingers and chopping boards. Although they're best used fresh, uncooked beetroot can keep for about 10 days in the fridge - trim the leafy tops to about 3cm above the bulb - this helps prolong its storage life. TOP TIPS
Beetroot can also be boiled. Baby beetroot, which first appear in our markets in early June, are especially good treated this way.
Its sweet flavour and vibrant colour makes a natural match with tart ingredients such as oranges, apples and peppery horseradish.
Beetroot also works very well when served raw in salads. A popular method of preparing them is to use a mandolin slicer
You might want to wear protective gloves when handling cooked maroon beetroot, as the colour does stain.
Smoked salmon with beetroot & vodka crème fraîche A hit of vodka gives this classic a new edge. Serve with a shot of vodka for full effect 1. Beat the crème fraîche with the vodka and a little seasoning until it holds its shape, then stir in the horseradish. Chill in the fridge. 2. Lay the slices of salmon over plates, then top with the beetroot and a spoonful of the crème fraîche. Top with the salmon caviar, if using, then scatter with the dill. Grind over some black pepper and serve.
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18 Wines to try... Springfield Special Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa. Distinct minerally undertones are covered with layers of luscious passion fruit flavours, together with gooseberry and citrus fruit flavours and very fresh, vibrant and crisp acidity to balance the fruit.
Ridgeview Marksman English Sparkling Wine 2009 Complex flavours of red apple, exotic spice and brioche are underpinned by beautifully balanced acidity and a long, mouth-watering finish. An outstanding vintage sparkling wine from one of the England's finest estates. If you are like me at this time of year, you
To complement seafood starters such as
cooler coastal areas of Chile and South
will have a number of lists on the go. An
scallops or smoked salmon, I like to go for
Africa. Or you could head to the Rhone
essential list to add to your list of lists is
a white Burgundy. From then on, it’s
for Chateauneuf Du Pape and the lesser
wine. There are a number of styles that
down to your personal taste (and
known
it’s good to have around to see you
budget). Perhaps a minerally, zesty
Gigondas for their full bodied, spicy
through Christmas Day and beyond to
Chablis from a premier cru vineyard or a
wines. If you prefer new world wines then
complement traditional Christmas fayre
full bodied complex wine from Puligny
look for Rhone grape blends such as
and appeal to a wide variety of tastes.
Montrachet or Meursault. The Maconnais
GSM’s (Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre) from
area to the south of burgundy is a great
Australia and California. Their spiciness
source of classic well priced Chardonnay
and dark berry fruit are ideal. If anyone
often showing a good balance of ripe
has found a match for sprouts, let me
apple and citrus.
know!
different and surprise your guests with a
I never deviate from turkey on Christmas
Christmas pudding wouldn’t be Christmas
traditional method English Sparkling
day and trimmings are essential. When
pudding without a small glass of dessert
Wine. Many of our high street retailers
choosing your wine, take into account the
wine and one of my favourite matches is
and supermarkets are now proudly flying
multitude of flavours from the sausages,
Tokay from Hungary which mimics all
the English sparkling wine flag so look
stuffing, bacon, cranberry and gravy. With
those rich dried fruit flavours. Go for one
out for names such as Ridgeview, Chapel
that in mind, I go for red wines. Look to
which is at least 5 ‘Puttoyos’, a term
Down and Nyetimber. If only Champagne
New Zealand for fruit driven Pinot Noir, as
which indicates the level of sweetness. An
will do, go for a classic non-vintage such
well as Pinots Burgundy Homeland. Other
Australian Botrytis Semillon is also sweet
as Taittinger, a Blancs Des Blancs or
top Pinot spots include Sonoma and
enough to take the pudding on. As an
perhaps an indulgent rosé.
Russian River Valley in California and
alternative, try a Malmsey Madeira which
Sparkling wine is an essential element to Christmas day festivities (to be honest, I can come up with any number of reasons to enjoy a glass of fizz). Dare to be
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villages
of
Vacqueras
and
19 Wines to try... Vocoret Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2011 Aromas of lime, slate, chalk and fresh citrus fruits leap out of the glass atop a concentrated, citrus and pineapple fruit on the palate. Layers of mineral and citrus on the finish with racy acidity.
Charles Melton, Nine Popes 2006 Henriques & Henriques 10 Year Old Malmsey Madeira wine is a deeper amber in colour, this intense wine has a more complex flavour of walnuts, dried fruits, coffee and caramel. Full body hiding the acidity and a very long finish. will also sit perfectly next to Christmas cake and mince pies. If you are planning to pass the port, a Tawny style works well with cheese and an LBV to sip solo or drink with chocolate desserts. For Boxing Day, go for lighter wines – a crisp South African Sauvignon Blanc, a dry rosÊ from southern France or Spain and soft, fruity Beaujolais. All great to rejuvenate tired taste buds but with the presence to complement buffets laden with cold meat and all. Pop in and chat to your local independent merchant too and see what they have to offer. Wishing you a happy and healthy festive season! Carol Brown is an Aberdeen based member of the Association of Wine Educators and the Circle of Wine Writers. www.wineuncorkededucation.co.uk
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20 specialise in a country or region giving you greater choice from that area and there will be someone on hand to guide you around the shelves. Q: Tell us a little about the Wine Appreciators Tasting Group you formed in Aberdeen. A: I founded the group back in 1999 and it came about from requests from past wine students who wanted to carry on tasting and learning. We meet on a Thursday evening around nine times a year at the Atholl Hotel and have around 30 members. The evenings are informal. We might focus on a country or region or taste wines made from the same grape around the world. Q: Do you run courses in Aberdeen for those who would like to learn more about wines? A: I run two ranges of courses. The Wine Education Service evening classes and one day workshops are attended mainly by consumers who enjoy wine and want to know more. I’m also an approved programme provider for the Wine and Spirit Education Trust for Levels 1, 2 and 3. It was working my way through the WSET courses that got me started in wine education. They are certified courses and are attended by enthusiastic amateurs and people in the hospitality and wine trade. Carol Brown is a regular contributor to the pages of ‘Savour’ magazine and a member of the Association of Wine Educators and the Circle of Wine Writers. Since completing her WSET Diploma in 1996, she has been talking, teaching, tasting and writing about wine in Aberdeen and around Scotland. Carol is now an Approved Programme Provider and tutor for the WSET. She also offers Wine Education Service courses and workshops as well as hosting Gourmet Wine Dinners and Corporate Entertainment events. She founded the Aberdeen Wine Appreciators Tasting Group in 1999. She was also a UK finalist in the European Champagne Ambassadors Awards 2006 and is a Certified Sherry Educator. Q: You’re dining in a fabulous restaurant where the waiter pours you the wine to taste. How do you
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avoid being either an ignorant fool or a pretentious snob? A: If it’s an unfamiliar wine to you, why not ask about it and other similar recommendations for the future. People in the wine business love to chat wine! When you are given the wine to taste, if you think there is a problem with the wine such as cork taint, simply say that you are unsure about its condition and ask for the waiter’s opinion. Q: Is there a massive difference between buying a bottle of wine at a wine merchant’s than one bought at your local Supermarket? A: Merchants and supermarkets will offer different ranges of wines. The supermarkets’ own label ’special’ ranges cover classic regions as well as some lesser known grapes, it’s a good way to try something different. Merchants will stock wines from small producers. They may also
Q: There are many wine growing regions in the world. In your capacity, have you been able to visit many of them? A: Yes, I’ve been very lucky and it is the best way to learn. This year, I’ve been to the English vineyards, Chablis and Lebanon. Over the last few years, long haul, I’ve visited South Africa, California and Chile and in Europe, I’ve been to regions across France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Germany, Hungary and Austria. Q: When a waiter shows you the label on your chosen wine what are the main things you should look out for? A: Make sure that it is the correct wine and also that it is the vintage that you requested as new producers or vintages might have recently come in. Q: So, share with us what your favourite tipple is? A: It really depends on my mood, who I’m with, what the occasion is and what I’m eating. I’ve got very varied tastes. Today it’s Champagne; tomorrow it could be 15 year old Bual Madeira! www.wineuncorkededucation.co.uk Member of the Association of Wine Educators and the Circle of Wine Writers
21
New Distillery to Blend with Speyside A major new distillery is being planned for Speyside by Chivas Brothers. The French-owned firm, part of Pernod Ricard, wants to build on the site of the Imperial distillery near Carron, which has not been used for 14 years. It would mean an increase of 10% in the company's malt whisky distilling capacity, meaning 5 million litres of additional spirit each year. The plans are at the early stage of consulting the local community and council planners. No value is being placed on the proposed investment, ahead of a market update by Pernod Ricard. Visible from the Speyside Way walking trail, the new building is intended to blend in with the riverside and traditional architecture.
Christian Porta, chairman and chief executive of Chivas Brothers, said: "Our success in growing our brands across the world, in existing and new markets, to many historical highs means that creating new distillation capacity is a key next step for our business. "This new distillery will supply high quality Speyside malt whisky for many of our blends in the years to come. This is another example of our sustained investment in our Scotch whisky operations which, combined with consistent innovation and marketing, will continue to drive the growth of our business." In May, the company announced plans to
grow its malt whisky distillation capacity by 25% by April 2013. It is reopening the Glen Keith distillery and expanding four other Speyside distilleries and in 2010, it increased the capacity of its Glenlivet distillery by 75%. Chivas is the second biggest company in Scotch whisky, with 21% of the market. It produces Chivas Regal, Ballantine's Beefeater Gin, The Glenlivet, Royal Salute, Aberlour, Scapa, and 100 Pipers. The expansion plans are in line with industry expectations that global sales of whisky will continue to grow strongly. The dominant player, Diageo, is spending £1bn on new investments.
Tale of the Dog Craft beer company BrewDog is to receive a Scottish Government grant to help open a new brewery and create 20 full-time jobs. The Aberdeenshire-based firm is to receive £551,000 from the Scottish Government as part of the latest round of food and drink funding. The cash will assist the media-savvy company set up a new brewery in Ellon. The funds will create a number of jobs and allow BrewDog to switch production to Scotland from England and Belgium. In addition, a new storage facility will see the firm increase the amount of Scottish barley it uses. The expansion also means BrewDog will be able to produce a new non-alcoholic maltbased range of soft drinks.
James Watt, the firm's co-founder, said: "The grant award has ensured that our state-of-the-art eco-brewery is being built in Aberdeenshire. The new brewery will increase our production capacity ten-fold and give us the capacity to keep up with the overwhelming demand for our beers and continue to grow our business.” "In addition, the project will create 20 fulltime jobs and significantly increase the amount of Scottish malted barley we purchase." He added: "We look forward to putting Scotland firmly on the world map for the finest quality premium craft beer and are extremely grateful for the Scottish Government's help in making this project a reality."
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23
Roasted Monkfish with Pepper Salsa Courtesy of Countesswell Fish Shop - Serves 2
Ingredients • 2x225g monkfish fillets skinned • 3tbsp honey • 30g butter • juice and rind of 1 lime • pinch of mixed spice • Salt and black pepper Salsa: • Half each yellow, red and green pepper deseeded and finely chopped. • 1 green chilli deseeded and chopped • 1/4 of a cucumber diced • 1/2 a white onion finely chopped • 3 tbsp fresh chopped coriander • 1 tbsp lime juice
Method 1. Preheat oven to 220 degrees Gas Mark 7 in a small saucepan gently heat honey, butter, lime juice, rind and mixed spice. 2. Place fish in roasting tin and pour over honey mixture. Bake for 20 mins 3. Mix together salsa ingredients and add 2tbsp of the cooking liquid. 4. Serve with salsa garnished with lime.
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24
Bye bye, birdie‌ The big bird may have ruled the Christmas roost for over a century, but sometimes it seems that not liking turkey is almost as traditional as turkey itself. Save yourself weeks of curry and curling sandwiches by choosing a recipe you'll want to finish on the day, like roasted carp with peppers and pancetta. Meanwhile a side of salmon not only feels luxurious but its brain boosting properties will serve you far better in the after -dinner game of charades than poultry! As time is always of the essence on the big day, choosing a low-maintenance meat will give you more time to spend on delicious trimmings (or assembling a child's toy from instructions in Taiwanese).Try spiced beef with roasted vegetables which will bring warmth and colour to the table in less than two hours, while 30 minute festive beef and dumplings does exactly what it says on the dish.
Do the Brussels hustle Having held their place on the Christmas table for so long, surely there must be a something to sprouts. The trick is not to boil them into oblivion – instead, blanch them for no longer than five minutes, then fry them
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with seasoning and other exciting ingredients for a sprout that's moreish, not mushy. Don't be afraid to experiment with different nuts, fresh herbs and salty additions such as anchovies or pancetta.
Don't go nuts Vegetarian food may have come a long way since the days of your Granny's 'hamless' ham sandwiches, but with so many other elements to juggle at Christmas, it's easy to resort to that herbivorous cornerstone, the nut roast. The first rule of alternative eating is don't accept fakes - nothing pretending to be meat will be as tasty as out-and-proud vegetables, but you'll need a little imagination and a good spice rack to make it memorable. With exotic flavours of cardamom, orange and pomegranate molasses, The Vegetarian Society's carrot and cashew fan is a nut roast but not as we know it. Meanwhile, smoked bean curd cakes is an Easterninspired dish that works surprisingly well with your regular gravy. If you have the meat-eaters clamouring for a taste, you know you're onto a winner.
25
Admiration for Preparation If the thought of preparing Christmas dinner brings you out in a cold sweat, you've come to the right page. With the right preparation and a little forward planning there's no need to dread the big day.
First things first, the menu Put your Christmas menu together as far in advance as you can. Steer clear of anything too tricky as pancake-flat soufflés and soggy Wellingtons might not get quite the reaction you're after. Choose a light starter that doesn't need too much preparation. Ahead of the day, make beetroot soup, toss together a stilton salad or quick to assemble smoked trout crostini, all impressive but easy. When it comes to the main, choose something you know you'll enjoy. If you don't like turkey, ditch it for goose, beef or anything else - unless you think it will cause a riot. If you're feeding people you haven't before, check what they do and don't eat. Perfectly pink venison loins might not go down that well with a veggie.
Clear the decks
Preparation
Christmas inevitably leads to bulging cupboards, fridges and freezers, so make sure you give them a good clean-out at least a couple of weeks in advance. Organised storage will make it much easier to see what you have and haven't got.
Once you know the weight of your meat, you can even make a timetable for the big day. If you've bought a frozen bird, take it out of the freezer in plenty of time. As a rule of thumb turkey takes 10 to 12 hours per kilo to defrost. It's amazing how much you can make in advance. Try a ‘store in the fridge’ stuffing and you'll reap the rewards come Christmas morning. Carrots, parsnips, sprouts and potatoes can all be peeled and portioned on Christmas Eve - put the spuds in cold water. While you’re at it pop the white wine and bubbly in the fridge and you can even lay the table. Then pop your feet up and enjoy a guilt-free night off.
Lists, lists and more lists Caution, last-minute shopping desperation leads to random purchases! A detailed shopping list will keep you sane and might just save a bob or two. To avoid spending Christmas Eve weeping in the cheese aisle Stilton-less, get the shopping in early or do it online. Don't forget to include foil and baking paper, which are definitely essentials. The other important thing to put on paper is a to-do list for the Christmas prep – make sure yours isn't the only name on it though. Get your family to lay the table, peel the spuds, wash the dishes or anything else you want to delegate; it shouldn't all be down to you.
Last-minute lifesavers If Christmas still manages to sneak up on you, never fear. Don’t be afraid to cheat. Jazz up shop bought goodies with a few chopped herbs, a twist of lemon or a dusting of icing sugar.
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27
Little Chefs have a Bake Off
With TV viewers across the country glued to BBC 2’s Great British Bake Off, sales figures recently released by John Lewis suggest that the show’s influence continues to spread, with parents now inspiring their children to catch the baking bug as well.
Children are no longer just making simple
Since the third series of the show began on 14 August, sales of children’s baking kits have shot up by 22%, with popular items including the little home at John Lewis, Fairy Baking Set and the Hello Kitty Silicone Food Mould. TV chefs such as Lorraine Pascale and Jamie Oliver have also encouraged parents to get their kids more involved in the kitchen, and their efforts appear to be paying off.
spoons, and renowned brands such as Le
treats such as Rice Krispie cakes - as recent ranges of kid’s bakeware have included all the tools needed to knock up far more sophisticated dishes. John Lewis’ Little Home range includes everything from basting brushes to measuring Creuset have also launched their own ranges of bakeware for children. Last year the Bake Off was credited with creating a surge in interest in baking, prompting huge increases in sales of cake tins, cake stands and afternoon tea sets. This years series has seen similar results, with sales of food mixers up by 62% and
demand for bread-makers up by 29% since the show returned to screens. Across the cookware range swiss roll tins are also proving a popular choice, with sales up by 34%. Other sought-after items include Silicone Bakeware, sales of which are up 126% year on year and Cake Cooling Racks, which have increased by 70%. Nicola Hattersley, Cookshop Buyer at John Lewis, said: "Baking is a fun activity which gives parents a great opportunity to spend time with their kids whilst helping them learn a new skill at the same time. This year we have seen a spike in sales of kids cooks sets at the same time as the adult range."
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28 Make Your Own Sweet Sensations
Peanut Butter Fudge Ingredients: • 125g/4.5oz butter • 500g/1lb 2oz dark brown sugar • 120ml/4fl oz milk • 250g/9oz crunchy peanut butter • 1 vanilla pod, seeds only • 300g/10.5oz icing sugar Method
We all throw caution to the wind during the festivities, especially when it comes to what we eat. Months of pounding the treadmill and ‘Body Pumping’ in order to lose a few pounds, is conveniently placed to the back of our minds, at least until January! There is no nicer way to finish a festive meal than with a little sweetness. No, I don’t mean grabbing a piece of mistletoe and sharing your love, I’m thinking more of satisfying your sweet tooth. Here are some simple recipes you can make at home that are sure to impress more than just the kids and with a bit of imaginative packaging, make an ideal give for ‘first-footing’.
1. Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat. 2. Stir in the brown sugar and milk, and bring to the boil for 2-3 minutes, without stirring. 3. Remove from the heat, and stir in the peanut butter and vanilla seeds. 4. Place the icing sugar in a large bowl, and pour the hot butter and sugar mixture on top. Using a wooden spoon, beat the mixture until smooth. 5. Pour into a 20cm/8in square baking tray, and set aside to cool slightly, then place in the fridge to chill completely. 6. Cut the fudge into squares with a sharp knife, turn out of the tin and store in an airtight container.
Chocolate Truffles Ingredients: • 280g good-quality dark chocolate, 70% cocoa solids • 284ml pot double cream • 50g unsalted butter Suggested Flavourings • Bourbon • Grand Marnier • Coconut Rum or the zest and juice of an orange) Method 1. Chop the chocolate and tip into a large bowl. Put the cream and butter into a saucepan and heat gently until the butter melts and the cream reaches simmering point. Remove from heat, then pour over the chocolate. Stir the chocolate and cream together until you have a smooth mixture. Add any flavourings to the truffle mix at this stage (divide the mixture between bowls and mix in liqueurs or other flavourings, a tsp at a time, to taste. Cool and chill for at least 4 hrs. 2. To shape the truffles, dip a melon baller in hot water and scoop up balls of the mixture, then drop the truffles onto greaseproof paper. Or lightly coat your hands in flavourless oil (such as sunflower) and roll the truffles between your palms. You could also use a piping bag to pipe rounds onto greaseproof paper.
3. Coat your truffles immediately after shaping. Tip toppings into a bowl and gently roll the truffles until evenly coated, then chill on greaseproof paper. Try: crushed, shelled pistachio nuts; lightly toasted desiccated coconut; or roll a truffle flavoured with orange zest and juice in cocoa powder. To coat in chocolate, line a baking tray with greaseproof paper. Melt 100g milk, dark or white chocolate for 10 truffles. Allow chocolate to cool slightly. With a fork, pick up one truffle at a time and hold over the bowl of melted chocolate. Spoon the chocolate over the truffle until well-coated. Place on the baking tray, then chill. 4. Store in the fridge in an airtight container for 3 days, or freeze for up to a month. Defrost in the fridge overnight. To give as presents, place 8-10 truffles in individual foil or paper cases inside small, lined boxes tied with ribbon. Keep in the fridge until you're ready to give them.
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29 Chocolate-Chip Cookies
It’s a Piece of Cake for Little Chefs
Ingredients: • 125g plain, gluten-free flour • Half tsp bicarbonate of soda • 50g soft brown sugar • 50g caster sugar • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 70g butter, softened, plus extra for greasing • 1 large egg, lightly beaten • 50g chopped brazil nuts • 100g dark chocolate, roughly chopped Method 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C, gas mark 4 and butter 2 baking sheets. 2. Combine the flour, bicarbonate of soda, brown sugar, caster sugar, vanilla extract and butter in a food processor for a few seconds. Briefly blend in the egg, nuts and then the chocolate. 3. Spoon 9 walnut-sized mounds of the cookie mixture onto each of the prepared baking sheets, making sure that you keep them spaced well apart to prevent the cookies from touching as they expand in the oven.
What a perfect time of year to get the kids involved in the kitchen and with the recent interest in ‘The Great British Bake Off’ it appears they can’t wait to get cracking with the eggs and beating with the butter. Here are some children’s favourite recipes you can supervise at home but, be warned, there might be a bit more washing up than usual!
4. Bake the cookies for about 10 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool for about 3 minutes. Lift them off the baking trays and place on wire racks to cool completely. They can be stored in an airtight container for 1-2 days.
Gingerbread Ingredients: • 125g unsalted butter • 100g dark muscovado sugar • 4 tbsp golden syrup • 325g plain flour • 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda • 2 tsp ground ginger • Supercook Writing Icing (optional) Method 1. Preheat the oven to 170°C, gas mark 3. Line baking trays with baking parchment. Melt the butter, sugar and syrup in a medium saucepan, stirring occasionally, then remove from the heat. 2. Sieve the flour, bicarbonate of soda and ginger into a bowl and stir the melted ingredients into the dry ingredients to make a stiff dough. 3. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and roll to a thickness of about 5mm. Dip biscuit cutters into flour before cutting the dough, or cut around templates, (which you can find at waitrose.com/christmas.) Place the shapes onto the lined baking trays and bake, in batches, for 9-10 minutes until light golden brown. 4. Remove from the oven. Whilst still warm, and using a skewer or chopstick, make any holes that you will need to hang up the biscuits with ribbon or to make a yuletide garland. If you are decorating your Christmas cake with gingerbread people, make the holes in their arms so that ribbon can be threaded through at a later stage. 5. When completely cool, decorate with the icing. The gingerbread biscuits can be stored in an airtight container for up to two weeks.
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30
Toff of the Pots Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has become known for his earthy, back-to-basics approach to cooking. Born in London but brought up in Gloucestershire, the cook, television presenter and author was in the year above David Cameron at Eton, Britain’s leading public school. He loves and is loved for getting dirty in the vegetable patch and bloody in the kitchen, as a passionate advocate of home-grown ethically sourced food. Known as a bit of a floppy-haired toff, he has joined Jamie and Delia as a foodie so famous he signs his latest book, ‘Three Good Things’, with only his first name.
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Hugh didn’t train professionally, but instead studied at Oxford and travelled to Africa to do conservation work. When he returned to England he joined the River Café in London, where he worked as a sous chef. In 1998 Hugh moved into the original River Cottage near Bridport in Dorset and started growing and rearing some of his own food. River Cottage has since moved on, grown and developed, but it still continues to stand for the same principles: less dependence on the outside world, food integrity, and the consumption of local, seasonal produce.
31 supermarket bosses, and fish-eating members of the public. His television series on Channel 4 intrigued but angered viewers when it was broadcast in January 2011. Every day far out at sea, half the fish caught in the North Sea are being thrown back dead. That's almost a million tonnes of edible fish every year - wasted. Fishermen hate doing it, but EU law says they have to. They call it "discarding". Hugh calls it madness!!
Today, River Cottage consists of several different projects. River Cottage HQ \ based at Park Farm near Axminster, is the base for running courses and events inspired by the philosophy of the original River Cottage ranging from a night's dining and entertainment, through to courses in foraging, curing, gardening, breadmaking, butchery and more. River Cottage also has two Canteen and Delis, in Axminster and Plymouth's Royal William Yard, where the team work with a wonderful collection of local and organic food and drink producers from the South West. They also stock a wide selection of the very best local and seasonal provisions including milk, eggs, bread, meat, poultry, beers and wines. Both the Canteens serve meals during the day and are open for evening service all week as well as with Sunday lunch. Other projects include series for television, regular food columns, and a range of books, DVDs and online courses, some of which are very familiar to us. Hugh is also famous for his high-profile campaigns such as Landshare, Chicken Out! and Hugh’s Fish Fight, his passionate campaign to eliminate discards in the fishing industry. For months he travelled around the country meeting fishermen, marine conservationists, politicians,
"Following the campaigning on Facebook and Twitter, the ministers felt EU citizens' eyes were on them. A crisis has been averted," said Hugh. But he said the campaign must continue: "It will be a long haul before we get to the finished article of a new, reformed, common fisheries policy, and [some member states and interest groups] will try to put more spanners in the works between now and then." Three Good Things How often have you wished there was a magic formula to simplify cooking? Well, there is. Put three good things together on a plate and, somehow, the whole is always greater and more delicious than the sum of its parts. Looking back over nearly two decades of professional cookery, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has worked out the combinations that make magic - salty, sweet, crunchy, sharp, rich, crumbly, hot, bland, crisp. Think scones with jam and cream, fish and chips with mushy peas, or porridge with golden syrup and cream. Hugh has used the formula of three to create more than 175 recipes, both well-loved classics and brand new ideas, based on trios like squash, ricotta and ham; aubergine, tomatoes and chickpeas; clams, tomatoes and garlic; chicken, tomatoes and tarragon; pork, potatoes and apples; pasta, courgettes and mozzarella; strawberries, cream and shortbread; and chocolate, ginger and digestives ...The list goes on. With sumptuous photography from Simon Wheeler, this book will unlock a whole new world of fantastic food.’ Three Good Things.’ It really is that simple.
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32 Photograph: Simon Wheeler
Chicken and plums with soy sauce Sweet plums and salty-tangy soy sauce are brilliant paired with tender chicken. Chilli and ginger are desirable but optional. The garlic is a must though. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
Ingredients • 8 bone-in, skin-on, free-range chicken thighs, or 1 small free-range chicken, jointed into 8 pieces • 1 tbsp sunflower oil • 1–4 red, mild-to-medium-hot chillies, to taste (optional) • 4 garlic cloves, sliced • A thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and coarsely grated (optional) • 8 plums, halved and stoned • 3 tbsp soy sauce • A small bunch of coriander, leaves only, chopped (optional) • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method 1. Preheat the oven to 200C/gas 6. Put the chicken thighs in a roasting tray, trickle with the oil and season well. Roast for 30 minutes, turning once or twice. 2. Meanwhile, halve and deseed the chillies, then cut each into 1cm strips. After 30 minutes, take the chicken out of the oven and add the sliced chillies, garlic and ginger to the roasting tray. Turn the chicken again to make sure the aromatics are evenly distributed around and under the pieces. Roast for a further 10 minutes. 3. Tuck the plum halves around the chicken pieces and trickle the soy on top. If there doesn't seem to be much liquid in the tray, add a few tablespoons of water. Return to the oven for 10–15 minutes until the plums are soft and yielding their juices. 4. Baste the chicken and plums with the pan juices, then leave to rest for 10 minutes. Finish with a scattering of chopped coriander, if you like.
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Haggis, Neeps and Tatties This is the recipe you need if you want to know how to cook haggis, neeps and tatties for a traditional Burns supper. Don’t forget to get your haggis from your local butcher.
Ingredients • 1 haggis (with natural casing) • 400g neeps (aka swede, yellow turnip) • 500g tatties (potatoes) • butter • milk (optional) • salt and pepper to taste
Method 1. First, for the haggis: Bring a largeish saucepan of water to the boil. Place the haggis in the pan and lower the heat so that the water simmers gently - you don't want the haggis to burst! Wrapping your haggis in foil can help prevent this. For a 1kg / 2lb haggis, you'll simmer for a good 75 to 90 minutes, but ask your butcher for best results. 2. Meanwhile, peel your neeps and tatties. Cube them, then boil separately till tender (I start this about half an hour before my haggis is finished). Drain, then mash separately with a good bit of butter. If you like, add a glug of milk to get a smoother consistency. Then add salt and pepper to taste. 3. Once your haggis is ready, serve alongside the neeps and tatties for a traditional Burns supper.
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Get the Dram Right on the Night The night of 25th January will see Scots everywhere donning kilts, eating offal and downing an awful lot of whisky for Burns’ Night Supper, the annual celebration of the Bard of Ayrshire, Robert Burns. Haggis – served with neeps (mashed turnip) and tatties (potatoes) – may be an acquired delicacy for some, but when washed down with liberal amounts of “the water of life” – as the Scots call their whisky – it can be sublime. But it’s worth getting the whisky right. The world of Scottish whisky is as varied as that of wine, and just as you wouldn’t want to serve a strong dessert wine with a starter, it’s worth knowing which drams work with different parts of the meal. The first course of a Burns supper should be Cock-a-leekie - the chicken and leek soup - that, traditionally, has prunes added for extra flavour. The aim with whisky pairing is to find malts that complement the flavours of
the food rather than contrast too strongly, and here you want something reflecting the broth’s lightness, that will also act as an aperitif – have it ready on the table when your guests arrive. Arthur Motley of Royal Mile Whiskies recommends the Arran 1996 Peacock “a light, citrus, vanillery dram that also gives you the opportunity to say Peacock-a-leekie.” The Scottish Bard would approve of that. Then comes the grand moment itself, the serving of the haggis, which you can tuck into after an eight-verse recitation of Burns’ poem, ‘Ode to a Haggis’. Here your whisky can actually become part of the meal itself, since some like to pour the drink onto the haggis (others might call that a waste). “You’ll need something strong and smoky,” says Darren Rook of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, “and for this, Isla whiskies like Ardbeg and Laphroiag are perfect, since the peat-
smoked barley used by the island’s distilleries adds extra richness and complexity that goes with the meatiness,” - is a fine example. “It has a sweet creaminess that compliments the neeps and tatties before building to those spicy, smoky flavours,” says Rook. For dessert, you might be eating Tipsy Laird (sherry trifle), Clootie Dumplings (fruit pudding wrapped in cloth) or – most traditionally – Cranachan, made from whipped cream, whisky, honey, raspberries and oatmeal. Jonathan Abarbanel, whisky sommelier at Trafalgar Square’s Scottish restaurant and bar Albannach, recommends a 12-year-old Balvenie. “It’s partially aged in a sherry cask and partially in a bourbon one, and has really fruity notes and vanilla creaminess that goes beautifully with desserts,” he says. Motley recommends trying something a little different – stick a bottle of Dalwhinnie 15 in the freezer for a day or more, and serve it straight from the freezer. “It has that viscious character that you get with frozen vodka, and the sweet, honeyed flavour of the Dalwhinnie goes beautifully with the honey in the Cranachan.” You’re not done yet though – there’s still the cheese to go, and big, tangy blue cheeses from Scotland like Dunsyre Blue are a classic match for the big, tangy Isla whiskies. Smokehead is just the kind of fiery, peaty number you’re after. Slange var!
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WANT IT?
? T I N I W
Win yourself a Kelly Bronze free range christmas pack from Andrew Gordon to feed 6 people! 5KG Kelly Bronze free range turkey complete with cooking guide and meat thermometer, veg pack, goose fat, stock.
Q: What’s the address of Andrew Gordon Butchery & Fine Foods in Aberdeen? Simply email your answer to info@nepam.co.uk by Monday the 17th of December 2012. (Terms & Conditions apply)
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It’s a great time of year to treat someone rather special and what better way to do this than with something rather special. The North-east’s most innovative chef, award-winning Craig Wilson and his team at Eat on the Green are keen to welcome diners, old and new, to share their passion for the fresh quality ingredients available throughout Aberdeenshire. A beautifully presented voucher makes the ideal gift. The lucky recipient can enjoy a meal in the restaurant or, for the ultimate gift, choose a ‘Chef for a Day’ voucher, offering the experience and buzz of working in the kitchen, where they will become an integral part of the team at Eat on the Green for a whole day participating in the preparation of food for dinner service. The experience is one that food enthusiasts will not want to miss. There are also a range of gifts such as Belgian chocolates, tartan aprons and miniature whiskies, which make terrific
stocking fillers or an ideal gift for ‘first footing’.
the restaurant will have a Christmas tree with hanging forks instead of baubles.
Speaking of which, why not join Craig and the team for a good old party to work off that New Year’s Day Dinner? Receive a drink on arrival, canapés and enjoy some great entertainment.
Are you the nominated chef this Christmas day for your family? Don't get stressed out, get prepared! This is your chance to pick up some top tips for the perfect Christmas roast and all the festive trimmings before the rush in December gets underway! Come and join Craig for a relaxed chef’s surgery and demonstration, followed by an informal supper and a glass of wine. Don't be afraid to come along yourself or with friends and he'll make you feel right at home. Available dates are the 21st and 28th November 6.00pm – 9.00pm. Craig is intending to continue these Chef Surgeries in conjunction with major key events in the New Year.
There is still time to book a festive lunch or dinner where you can continue your culinary journey through Scotland’s larder. Craig and the team would be privileged to spend this time of year with you. It really is ‘Something Rather Special’. In conjunction with the ‘What the Fork’ supporting fundraising for a new Maggie’s Centre in Aberdeen], Eat on the Green have prepared something a little different for the month of December by having a symbolic single, giant cracker placed in the Restaurant, instead of thousands of Crackers on the table. All diners will receive a little something, with Craig asking them to flip the psychology, by giving a little something back to Maggie’s. In addition
Also don’t forget Burns’ Night on Friday 25th January when the team will be providing their usual Burns’ night celebration dinner and entertainment. Prior booking is essential with a deposit required to confirm your reservation.
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Roast Goose with Baked Apples & Gravy If you’re ringing the changes with goose this year, try my version with baked apples and a cider gravy. Nick Nairn
Ingredients • 1 goose, about 4.5-5kg, with giblets • thyme sprigs, sage leaves and parsley • 1 lemon, 1 orange, quartered • 25g goose or duck fat For the gravy: • The goose giblets • 1 onion, peeled and chopped • 1 carrot, peeled and chopped • 2 sticks celery, chopped • 2 tbsp calvados or brandy • 2 tbsp plain flour • 150ml medium cider • 2 tsp herb and apple jelly (or similar) • 300ml chicken stock • sea salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper For the roast apples: • 6 red eating apples • 6 sprigs rosemary • 2 tbsp honey
Method 1. Preheat the oven to 220°C. 2. From a fresh or frozen and thawed goose, remove the bag of giblets from the cavity and set aside. Feel around the cavity entrance, grab any big lumps of fat and pull out. 3. Lightly prick the goose skin all over, trying not to pierce the flesh. 4. Use a little goose fat (or butter) and rub all over the bird. Sprinkle with sea salt, then stuff the cavity with the orange and lemon, herbs, salt and pepper. 5. Now sit the goose on a wire rack in a roomy roasting tin so it doesn’t boil in its own fat, and to make drawing the fat off easier. Calculate the total cooking time allowing 15 mins per 500g. Start by roasting at 220°C for 20 minutes, then lower the heat to 180°C. 6. Cook the goose for the remaining calculated time. You won’t need to baste it. Remember to keep spooning the fat off from the tray as it collects there during cooking. Once cooked, you can keep the goose warm in a very low oven for up to 30mins – this will make it easier to carve and prevent it being too dry. 7. Make the gravy while the goose is roasting. Have a look at the giblets and remove the liver. Trim off any excess fat and chop the neck into chunks, split the oval gizzard horizontally in two, and halve the heart. This may sound a bit gruesome, but will make extra-special gravy. Heat a little of the goose fat in a medium saucepan then fry the goose neck, gizzard, heart and vegetables over a high heat until nicely browned. Then add the calvados/brandy and reduce. Sprinkle in the flour and cook for a minute then add the cider, herb/apple jelly and chicken stock, bring to the boil and simmer for 25 minutes. Strain into a clean pan. Allow to settle for a couple of minutes then spoon off any fat. Keep warm. 8. For the roast apples, score around each apple’s middle with a sharp knife. Sit them in a roasting pan with a little goose fat and drizzle with honey. Place in the oven during last 25-30 minutes of goose roasting. Baste frequently with goose fat and honey. 10 minutes before they are cooked, pull out the stalks and replace with sprigs of fresh rosemary, then pop back in the oven and continue cooking until a sharp knife will just glide into the centre of an apple. Very Christmassy. Serve with potatoes roasted in the drained off goose fat, plus the apples and buttered kale.
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40 Award winning chippy trawls up funds for heroes
Newton Dee Store Provides
Hidden Treasures products, including everything from basic day-to-day items up to specialty products from around the world, and a wide range of dietary specific items such as gluten free and vegan.
A North-east fish and chip shop has raised more than £5000 for a charity that helps wounded soldiers. The Bay Fish and Chips of Stonehaven trawled up support from suppliers and staff to raise a total of £5184.75 for the Help for Heroes cause, which provides practical, direct support to those servicemen and women wounded in the line of duty in Iraq and Afghanistan. The award winning chippy, recently crowned Scotland’s No1 chippy for the second year running, managed to persuade suppliers of its food produce, food waste collection and even its electricity to provide their services free of charge for the day in order for the chipper to donate all its takings to the worthy cause. As well as the takings from the day, The Bay ran a raffle and gained a few prizes from some well-known names; celebrity chefs Ed Baines, Phil Vickery and Raymond Blanc all donated signed copies of their book to be raffled off to lucky winners. The chippy received some supportive visitors on the day too to keep moral up, including members of HM forces and even celebrity chef Nick Nairn (who is a big fan of The Bay), popped in to pick himself up a supper to show his support. Owner of The Bay, Calum Richardson, said: “The day was a great success and I was overwhelmed with the amount of support that I received. I have to say a massive thank you to staff for their hard work and for donating their time, as they donated their own salary back to the charity.”
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An Aberdeen charity, which boasts its own community convenience store, has been receiving a huge amount of support from local residents. Newton Dee, offering residential support and work for adults with special needs, says an estimated 60% of business at its on-site store comes from customers outwith the village itself. The Newton Dee Store, based in Bieldside, provides its residents and co-workers with essentials but is also open year-round for members of the wider community to stock up on goods, and provides some unusual offerings. John Miller, senior assistant manager, said: “We are very proud of our stock and proud to provide the village and outlying community with items they might not be able to find in an everyday convenience store. As part of Newton Dee we are able to provide meaningful work for our residents and the proceeds help to support the community.” The village store provides many of the groceries for Newton Dee’s on-site residents, and stocks more than 4,000
One of the store’s main missions is to sell as many local and organic products as possible, and it stocks regional favourites such as locally produced olive oils and locally grown fruit and vegetables, as well as award winning cheese and other Scottish produce. One of the store’s hallmarks is its bakery section, which serves bread and cakes freshly baked daily at Newton Dee’s own bakery and confectionery and these items are best sellers, often selling out on a daily basis. Newton Dee is a registered charity that offers supported living and work to adults with special and complex needs, and the village is home to almost 200 residents and co-workers. Most of the Newton Dee residents work on-site at the village’s various workshops, including the Store, Bakery, Cafe and Gift Shop which are open to the public to help continually raise funds for the facility.
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News Bites The Stage is set for a Great Christmas
Give a
Class Present Since opening the Nick Nairn Cook School in central Aberdeen in May, the team have been thrilled at how well the new Quick Cook bar has been received by their customers. The school continues to offer full-day classes in their state of the art, upstairs teaching kitchen, where you can be taught to cook a whole host of dishes, gain great tips and do plenty of eating, chatting and cooking. The allnew Quick Cook classes have also proven to be a huge success and the Cook School are continually adding to the new 2-hour classes. During a Quick Cook class, one of their top chefs will teach you how to make one delicious dish (while packing in tips and ‘cheffy’ secrets). And of course you can sample your creation with a glass of vino to hand.
Nick says: “It’s such a great experience to be able to help people cook well, whatever level they’re at. And it’s always fun.” A Nick Nairn Cook School gift card makes a great Christmas present, whether it’s for a £39 Quick Class, or a £159 full day. Why not join a class with Nick himself. Whether your gift is for a total novice or a Masterchef in the making, there is something suitable. Call 01877 389 900 and the team will help you to choose a course, or visit www.nicknairn.com to buy Gift Cards, book classes, or buy a handy cooking kit from their online shop. Throughout the magazine you’ll find a couple of Nick's favourite Christmas recipes to get you in the mood.
Why not give a gourmet gift this festive season? Treat someone you know to the ultimate dining experience at the reputable Stage Door Restaurant in the heart of Aberdeen’s cultural centre. Serving an inspiring mix of traditional Scottish cuisine with a continental influence, The Stage Door boasts a delicious selection of steaks and seafood on its Steak Out Menu, as well as mouth-watering dishes on the stunning Signature Menu. Due to its location, The Stage Door is also perfect for pre-theatre meals or an after show coffee or dessert. Throughout December, The Stage Door are offering 25% off all gift vouchers on voucher purchases of £50 or more, so someone you know can enjoy delectable fine dining while you can save some precious pennies this Christmas! Described as “the best hidden gem in the Granite City” by actor Steven Tompkinson, The Stage Door is one performance definitely not to be missed.
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Robust Menu in Postcard-Worthy Setting
“Superb Scottish food and service.” “We had one of the best meals in Scotland at this delightful harbourfront restaurant. Excellent value, delicious steak and Guinness pie with locally produced vegetables and excellent service from Carol who was extremely helpful in recommending touring itineraries. She also moved us to a window table for the view. Highly recommended; great value”
In the middle of a scrum of characterful buildings, snuggled into the towering cliffs, nestles THE SHIP INN. Creaking with character, perched on the Shorehead at Stonehaven’s picturesque harbour, this cosy hostelry serves up a slice of Northeast coastline and delicious local produce plucked from its shores. This charming inn is an ideal choice for bed and breakfast accommodation. What better way to start the New Year than a short stay in one of the eleven comfortable bedrooms, all with modern facilities including Wi Fi access. Owner Simon Cruickshank has supervised over the years, room refurbishment, extending the property and more recently the modernisation of the bar and lounge area, whilst retaining the character and charm which is synonymous with this popular establishment. A freshly designed website allows you to check availability and book online. (www.shipinnstonehaven.com). The Captains Table restaurant provides magnificent views of the harbour and offers a wide range of freshly prepared dishes to treat your taste buds. The extensive menu reads like a Jamie Oliver
cookbook so there is sure to be something to suit all tastes. Book now for a pre-Christmas lunch or dinner and enjoy the very best local produce served with panache and flair. There is still, however, a wide variety of alternative dishes should the traditional menu not be to your taste. All are superbly priced without skimping on quality. The bar is renowned for its selection of keg beers and real ales which change regularly. It also boasts an incredible 100 different malt whiskies. With welcoming staff, fresh, quality food, real ales and comfortable rooms THE SHIP INN is an ideal place for a short break. Enjoy the early morning panorama as you tuck into a Scottish breakfast that would appease the hungriest of Highlanders then set off to explore the rugged coastline or drive through the beautiful, Deeside countryside. There are no parking restrictions in the vicinity of the inn and Stonehaven’s shopping area is only a few minutes’ walk away. This is an ideal place for a comfy and cosy break that will still leave cash in your pocket.
The Ship Inn 5 Shorehead, Stonehaven, AB39 2JY Tel: 01569 762617 savour Winter 2012
Festive Fireballs
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and Winter Warmers
It’s generally accepted that nobody does New Year celebrations quite like the Scots, and for many in the North East, the Stonehaven Fireball ceremony is as much a part of the festive season as Christmas trees and mince pies. For over a century the ceremony has not only been Stonehaven's way of welcoming the New Year, but has also provided a gathering point for locals and visitors alike, all of whom have come to enjoy a proper Hogmanay. The procession - which starts at the town’s Mercat Cross and winds through the high street - sees people swing fireballs above their heads, illuminating the winter sky. Whilst those with the fireballs will definitely be kept warm, spectators may need something else to ward off the winter chill and where better to do so than at another Stonehaven institution, The Ship Inn. For Simon Cruickshank, the man behind the The Ship Inn, it’s the perfect place for a dram to take the edge off the dropping
temperatures. “With a range of over 100 malt whiskies, our lounge is ideal for a quick stop off before the fireballs” he says. “Whether you’re a regular, a local or from further afield, the atmosphere is warm and welcoming.” Built in 1771, The Ship Inn nestles on the edge of the picturesque harbour and offers a warm friendly atmosphere with fine dining and sea views. “If you really want to make a night of it, The Captain’s Table restaurant offers mouth-watering dishes using locally sourced ingredients, whilst the recently refurbished bedrooms offer comfortable and modern accommodation for those in need of a nap after the celebrations”, says Simon. So, with a bar full of the finest whiskies, unrivalled views over the harbour and just moments from the High Street and the spectacular fireball ceremony, The Ship Inn has to be the perfect place to see in 2013. For further information on The Ship Inn, call 01569 762617.
Organic Company Have Roots in Stonehaven Lembas have been growing organic vegetables near Aberdeen since 1980. First they were working for the Camphill Rudolf Steiner Schools in Milltimber near Aberdeen and after a short spell back in Holland they set themselves up in Maryculter as an independent business growing organic vegetables for supermarkets. Over the years they switched to supplying local markets, notably all the Camphill communities
around Aberdeen as well as to organic box schemes in the area, also operating a box scheme themselves. In 1998 they moved to their present site at Bridge of Muchalls, near Stonehaven, where they have built their award winning low impact house as well as their purpose built business premises, chicken houses and polytunnels. They have succeeded over the years, to
build up a business offering the widest range of organic fruit and vegetables which are of good quality and at an affordable price, with the best possible range. Lembas also offer a wholesale service box scheme to shops. They supply a range of ready-made boxes with quantities varying during the year, offering to deliver a single box or combination of boxes on an occasional or regular basis.
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Taste of Success for Food & Drink Winners
Food and drink businesses in the Highlands and Islands ranging from festivals and fish processors, cafes and cookie producers to butchers and seafood bars – were celebrating success as winners of the eleven categories at the Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Awards held on the 19th October. The Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival walked away with the judges’ special Excellence Award for outstanding achievement, and Charlie Devin of Lossie Seafoods was presented with the award of Ambassador of the Year for his contribution to the industry. Other winners included Cullisse Highland Rapeseed Oil of Easter Ross for New Business Award, Inverness’ Angelic Gluten Free Cookie Range for New Product Award, Aquascot for the Healthier Food and Drink Award, The Whitehouse Restaurant in Lochaline for Restaurant of the Year, Kishorn Seafood Bar for Best Other Eatery and joint winners of the Young Shining Star Award – Andrew Whitehouse of Café Artysans in Inverness and Sally Swinbanks of The Tobermory Fish Company. The Awards showcase the wide range of diverse products of businesses operating in the region, celebrating their achievements in innovation, forward planning and collaboration. Quintin Stevens of the Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Awards said: “It is fantastic to see continued growth and support for the Awards. We have witnessed another challenging year within our industry both economically and climatically, but have continued to remain innovative and positive – something that the Highlands and Islands has always been extremely good at. “I would like to say a huge thank you to our existing sponsors and also to our new sponsors who have helped bring five new awards to the event this year. We certainly
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look forward to working with them all over the coming year and wish all the finalists and winners every success for 2013.” Over 250 representatives from businesses in the Highlands and Islands food and drink industry attended the awards ceremony and dinner at the Drumossie Hotel in Inverness. The event was opened by Rural Affairs Secretary Richard Lochhead and hosted by A Question of Taste host and news presenter Kirsty Wark (who also reached the final in Celebrity Masterchef). Rural Affairs Secretary Richard Lochhead said: “Now in its eighth year, I am delighted that the Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Awards are getting bigger and better each year. These Awards highlight the fantastic range of top quality and delicious food and drink the region has to offer. All of the winners and nominees can be very proud of their achievements. “Scottish food and drink companies continue to perform well and Highland and Islands businesses are an important part of that success. Internationally, our food and drink offering is in high demand and I’m confident the industry’s challenging new target for exports of £7.1 billion by 2017 will be met.” Long standing supporter of the Awards, Highlands and Islands Enterprise (HIE) views the Awards as an essential feature of the industry. Chris Taylor, Head of Tourism, Food and Drink at HIE explained: “We value the Awards for the profile they give to individuals and to businesses, not just within their industry, but also on the wider stage as the quality of the food and drink we produce can match the best the world has to offer. “Congratulations to everyone shortlisted in this year’s awards. We hope this will help you all in developing your business and contribute to the outstanding success of the Scottish food and drink industry.”
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Winners of the Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Awards Best Drink Award sponsored by J&D Cowper Ltd
New Business Award sponsored by Scotland Food and Drink
TOMATIN DISTILLERY, Tomatin Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky
CULLISSE HIGHLAND RAPESEED OIL, Easter Ross
Best Marketing Initiative sponsored by Speyside Specialities
New Product Award sponsored by Polaris Learning Ltd
MACBETH’S BUTCHERS, Forres
ANGELIC GLUTEN FREE, COOKIE RANGE, Inverness
Development of Export Markets sponsored by JBT Distribution & ParcelinQ
Young Shining Star Award sponsored by The Full Range Purchasing Limited
LOSSIE SEAFOODS, Buckie Environment Award sponsored by TIO Ltd KNOCKFARREL PRODUCE, Dingwall Healthier Food and Drink Award sponsored by Highlands and Islands Enterprise AQUASCOT, Alness
ANDREW WHITEHOUSE, Café Artysans, Inverness SALLY SWINBANKS, The Tobermory Fish Company, Isle of Mull Best Other Eatery Award sponsored by North Highland Initiative KISHORN SEAFOOD BAR, Strathcarron
Independent Food & Drink Retailer of the Year Award sponsored by Murray Retail
Restaurant of the Year Award sponsored by Swansons Fruit Company
THE TOBERMORY FISH COMPANY, Isle of Mull
THE WHITEHOUSE RESTAUARANT, Lochaline
Ambassador of the Year Award sponsored by The Storehouse and The Dores Inn CHARLIE DEVIN, LOSSIE SEAFOODS, Buckie The special award of Ambassador of the Year was not open for general entry, and the winner was nominated by food and drink industry leaders. This year Charlie Devin of Lossie Seafoods was recognised for his hard work, commitment, innovation and dedication to the industry. Charlie’s involvement in Lossie Seafoods helped grow the company into a thriving business, and he has developed new markets for smoked salmon in countries such as Mexico and increased market size in other countries helping put Scottish produce and Scotland on the map. Charlie is hugely passionate about Scottish produce and his country, but most importantly, he is passionate about people. His knowledge and rapport with people from all walks of life and all parts of the world make him invaluable in an exporting role. He is known for his integrity and entertaining stories which are as genuine as he is. The judges felt he was without doubt a deserving Ambassador.
Excellence Award sponsored by Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Awards SPIRIT OF SPEYSIDE WHISKY FESTIVAL, Speyside The Excellence Award is one of the few awards reserved by the judges. It recognises excellence and is selected by the judging panel from entries received across all categories. The Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival celebrated its thirteenth year in 2012. Within the first hour of the launch in January, over £36,000 ticket sales were recorded, and when the Festival opened four months later on 3rd May, over 100 events were sold out. The Festival generated in excess of £1.8m for the local economy which represented a return on investment of: £1: £140. The judges felt that in the current economic climate all these factors demonstrated an excellent achievement which truly lives up to the Festival’s brand values of Inspiring, Scottish and Spirited.
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Treacle Pudding This old fashioned kitchen favourite from Mary Berry is the stickiest, sweetest of sweets around
Ingredients • Butter, for greasing • 6 generous tbsp golden syrup • 125g self-raising flour • 125g shredded vegetable suet or grated chilled butter • 125g fresh white breadcrumbs • 60g caster sugar • About 125ml milk • 900ml pudding bowl
Method 1. Lightly butter the bowl and spoon the golden syrup into the bottom. 2. Put the flour, suet or butter, breadcrumbs, and sugar into a bowl and stir to combine. Stir in enough milk to give a dropping consistency. Spoon into the bowl on top of the syrup. 3. Cover the bowl with buttered foil, pleated in the middle. Secure by tying string under the rim of the bowl. 4. Put the bowl into a steamer or saucepan of simmering water, making sure the water comes halfway up the side of the bowl if using a saucepan. Cover and steam, topping up with boiling water as needed, for about 3 hours. Turn out the pudding and serve.
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Buon Appetito After months of anticipation an exciting
atmosphere, with lots of food to share.
new dining experience has opened in
Salami’s, carpaccio, home- made bread
Bon Accord Street. Aperitivo is the
and beef spare ribs are all very
creation of Tony Renda and Nikos
affordable in a cosy setting. Pop in at
Spathis the hugely successful pairing
any time of day for a cappuccino and
behind Rustico in Union Row. The 180
pastry or enjoy a lunchtime sandwich
seater eatery serves you delicious food
or salad and if time is not on your side,
Rusticos but mentored by Tony and
seven days a week. The theme is
take it away! This Italian themed
Nikos is sure to be a huge success. The
Mediterranean meets tapas in a relaxed
restaurant is very different from
best way to find out is to give it a try!
Western Delights for Eastern Visitors Japanese visitors to Scotland have been told to eat, drink but be wary of calling locals English. A guidebook urges tourists to look beyond the Royal Mile but advises against calling a kilt a skirt and be cautious about interacting with the locals as it can be fraught with misunderstanding. However, the guide recommends Mackie’s honeycomb ice cream, ginger marmalade and Irn Bru.
A warm welcome awaits at The Atholl Hotel in Aberdeen. Offering professional but friendly service whilst boasting 34 en-suite bedrooms and two conference rooms, The Atholl really is deserving of its four star award from VisitScotland. The hotel also offers the best in business facilities, with free broadband internet access in all bedrooms and both function rooms. As an added advantage, there is a large private car park at the rear of the hotel which
can accommodate up to 60 cars. With a solid, proven reputation earned in its many years as a busy Aberdeen hotel, The Atholl is held in great affection by the people of The Granite City. Renowned as the place to come for consistent service, value for money and a good oldfashioned approach where nothing is ever too much trouble. Privately owned and located in the west end, The Atholl truly is 'in a class of its own'.
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Soda Bread Prep time:10 min, plus 20 mins to rest
Ingredients • 250 g strong bread flour, plus extra for dusting • 10 g baking powder • 1 tsp salt • 35 g butter, softened • 75 ml buttermilk • 5 ml milk • 1 medium egg, beaten
Method 1. Preheat the oven to 200C/gas 6, and line a baking tray with parchment. 2. Put the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl and work in the butter. Stir in the remaining ingredients and mix well. Combine the mixture with your hands to make dough. 3. Flatten the dough out and cut a cross into the top, then place on the baking tray and leave to rest for 20 minutes. 4. Dust the dough lightly with flour and bake in the oven for 30-40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool
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Firming up a ‘Soggy Bottom’ Paul Hollywood is one of the UK’s leading artisan bakers. The son of a baker, Paul originally trained as a sculptor until his father persuaded him to change careers. By combining his love of sculpting and baking, Paul established himself as an innovator. During his time as head baker, Paul worked in some of the most exclusive hotels in the world including the Dorchester in London. He cemented his reputation as the leading authority on bread making by publishing the best-selling book “100 Great Breads” which has been translated into seven languages and was named as the “Top Bread and Pastry Book” of 2005. In 2008 he created the most expensive bread in Britain; an almond and Roquefort sourdough that was sold for £15 a loaf at Harrods, which Paul describes as the “Rolls-Royce of loaves”!
With fellow judge Mary Berry, he made an appearance at the BAFTAS to collect the Best Features Award for The Great British Bake Off, for which he has been a judge for three series. The Great British Bake Off on BBC2 was more of a phenomenon than a TV show. Having just completed its third series, it regularly received viewing figures of more than five million and has catapulted Hollywood from hotel baker, (who has knocked on the door of television before without ever getting much more than a toe inside), to baking superstar. Not to mention national sex symbol. "One of the reasons’, says Paul, “is because baking is more approachable (than other types of cooking) at any level. Whether you're making a pie, a pasty, a sponge cake, a cupcake, a muffin ... if you've got a set of scales, good ingredients, a good recipe,
anyone – from the age of eight to 80 – can do it." Paul reveals all the secrets of his craft in his new book ‘How to Bake’, busting the myths that surround baking, sharing his finely honed skills, and showing that with the right guidance, anybody can achieve success time after time. With this in mind, he has filled this book with easy-to-follow, clearly explained, utterly delicious recipes. Having taken you through the basic techniques, Paul explains how to make an abundance of breads, pastries, cakes and biscuits including wholemeal loaf, soda bread, ciabatta, focaccia, chapatis, Cheddar and apple bread, fruit loaf, fresh croissants, scones, classic Victoria sponge, lemon drizzle cake, baklava, buttery shortbread and triple layer chocolate cake. Time to get baking!
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Pulled Pork Skillet
Cider marinated slow cooked pork shoulder with sticky red cabbage, sour cream, and apple dipping sauce, hot salsa and floured tortillas
Ingredients Dry rub: • 1 tsp. ground cumin • 1 tbsp. garlic powder • 1 tbsp. onion powder • 1 tsp. chili powder • 1 tbsp. cayenne pepper • 1 tbsp. Smoked paprika • 1/2-cup brown sugar Other ingredients: • Half a red cabbage • Good quality sour cream • 500ml cider • Bay leaf • Water • Onion • Carrots • 3kg pork shoulder Apple puree: • 50ml cider • 6 granny smith apples • Juice of 1/2 lemon • Salt/pepper Salsa: • 1 red onion • 6 plum tomatoes • Few tarragon leaves • 3 or 4 large gherkins • Chili scented Ola Oil • Splash sherry vinegar • Chives
Method Pork Shoulder & other ingredients: Slice the onions and the carrots and place on a roasting tray. Cover the pork shoulder with the rub and place onto the onions and the carrots. Pour the cider around the pork and scatter a few bay leaves. Roast in the oven at 130 degrees for approx. 7 hours. Occasionally taking some of the roasting juices from the tray and pouring over the pork. When the pork is cooked it should fall apart. Remove the carrots and onions from the juices, and mix the juices through the pork. The pork should have a good balance of sweet and spicy. Apple puree: Peel and chop the apples and place in a saucepan with the cider and the lemon, cook until the apples are well cooked and then blend until the mixture is smooth in consistency. Salsa: Fine dice the red onion and the gherkin, and roughly chop the tomatoes and tarragon, thinly chop the chives and add all together. Give a good glug of the Ola oil and add the vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. To finish: Pan fry the cabbage on high heat and add a heaped tablespoon of brown sugar, cook until the cabbage is sticky and caramelized. Heat the skillet; pile the pork on and the cabbage on top. Serve with the salsa and apple puree on the side with dollops of good quality sour cream.
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Scooping up
Success Huntly is a thriving Aberdeenshire community and at its core is one of the area’s most successful local businesses. James Rizza and Sons established in 1914 began manufacturing ice cream to a traditional Italian recipe in the 1930’s. In the early days, as a young lad, James could be seen on his bicycle selling his ice cream tubs round Buckie, but by the mid 1960’s all was to change and the firm moved up a gear to open a wholesale ice cream business. Now at their purpose built factory in Huntly where they currently employ 35 staff, they manufacture a wide range of products. Ice cream, sorbets, double cream, premium ice cream and even Christmas and birthday gateaux are all produced there and distributed throughout the UK. Their products are delivered to ice cream parlours, hospitals, restaurants and many other outlets throughout the North East, The Highlands, Dundee and Tayside. Rizza’s
very popular “spoon-in-lid tubs” which are now available in Dairy, Chocolate, Strawberry, Mint Choc Chip (new) and Cappuccino can be tasted in most theatres in Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen and Inverness.
Apple and Scottish Tablet whilst retaining
Now, in addition to their original Italian recipe, they also make prize winning Gold Top Premium ice cream using Jersey double cream and their Real Dairy ice cream is made using cream supplied by a local dairy. In addition to their delicious, quality ices, Rizza’s offer a complete service to restaurants by supplying wafers, tubs and toppings.
achieved Level 6 with no conformances
some of the old classics such as Raspberry Ripple and Rum & Raisin! To ensure their quality and standards are up to scratch, Rizza’s strive to achieve the highest level of the BRC accreditation, this year they for the 6th year running. To complement their existing range of products they now offer mouth-watering individual ice cream desserts, wickedly tempting gateaux and cheesecakes by Bindi. This award winning, family business
Over the years their versatility has grown and they are quick to introduce current trends to their portfolio. They now make delicious cupcakes piped with their award winning ice cream, with a choice of mouth-watering toppings and have introduced Gluten Free Ice Cream. They have also added some new flavours such as Jaffa Cake, Lemon Cheesecake, Toffee
continues to thrive and the distinctive Rizza name is synonymous with delicious, quality ice cream. You could be scooping the rewards by stocking products from this authentic Italian producer, so give Rizza’s a call on 01466 792847 or e-mail rizzas@btconnect.com. Follow what’s new at Rizza’s on Facebook and twitter.
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52 Break-away
Relax in the
Romance of Rufflets Can you think of a more romantic and magical setting for a weekend break? Rufflets, located in the popular town of St. Andrews, offers an invigorating getaway for adults but also plenty of activities to keep the children happy. This stunning hotel has 27 individually styled and tastefully decorated bedrooms, including two suites and three lodges. Unlike most of the larger hotel chains, the rooms are different shapes and sizes which add to their individual character and distinct charm. View their 10 acres of award winning gardens, stroll through the romantic historical town of St Andrews, or simply relax with a drink in one of the public rooms. The dinner menu is a daily
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changing table d'hote menu, although they do have some items that remain a fixture due to their popularity. They can also produce special one-off menus to suit the needs of clients for special occasions. Head Chef David Kinnes joined the team in July 2011. With a long career already behind him in the UK, David brings not only great experience to Rufflets, but a great passion for food. His cooking style very much complements the kitchen with his insistence on only the highest quality of local fresh produce allowing him to create a range of menus and dishes that will excite and delight. David's menus include prime Scottish reared beef, hill fed lamb, venison, fish and seafood - so lots of local, seasonal and well-sourced ingredients can be enjoyed. Locally
grown vegetables, soft fruits and herbs supplement their own seasonal garden produce. Fresh pastas, ice creams and sorbets are all made in house. Cooking is light, in the modern Scottish style, with the emphasis on enhancing the natural flavours of the ingredients and on presentation. Although the menu format and content may have moved forward in response to changing customer preferences, the quality of their hospitality, customer service and attention to details remains at the highest level To complement your meal, the wine list offers a range of approximately 100 wines from around the world, including a half bottle selection. You can also enjoy wines by the glass, including dessert wines.
53 Break-away
A Real Treat at
The Peat Inn A warm welcome awaits you at The Peat Inn, a beautiful 5 star Scottish restaurant with rooms near St Andrews, competently run by husband and wife team Geoffrey and Katherine Smeddle. Geoffrey was formerly head chef at Etain, Sir Terence Conran’s first destination restaurant outside London. Now as chef proprietor, he and his team in the kitchen focus on delivering modern cooking based on the finest local and seasonal ingredients. This simple approach is complemented by the exciting wine list of over 400 bins. As a result The Peat Inn is consistently one of the best restaurants in Scotland, renowned for the use of fresh Scottish produce
and holder of a Michelin Star since 2010. Three small dining rooms make up the restaurant, providing an intimate setting for lunch or dinner. Each room is also available for private parties if required. The reception lounge with its deep sofas and open log fire, create an atmosphere which is elegant and refined and made all the more enjoyable by the friendly and attentive service. From your aperitif upon arrival to coffee and a liqueur before you have to depart, you are sure to enjoy every moment of the wonderful cuisine and hospitality at The Peat Inn. A few steps from the restaurant lies The Residence providing luxury
accommodation in eight individual suites. This marvellous combination of cuisine and comfort awaits any discerning guest seeking a luxury hotel near St Andrews but with a real difference. With simple country charm The Peat Inn captures the best of small country house hotels in Scotland, but with a convivial and unpretentious atmosphere. For truly special occasions, be it a delightful romantic break or an escape to Scotland, special celebration, private dining, or high end corporate events The Peat Inn is the ultimate experience. It can be exclusively yours too by arrangement.
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Cowshed Served Rosette
wrong with the high-fat, high-sugar Scottish diet. But do people really
second birthday. The Cowshed now offers a five course Tasting Menu along
eat them or is it a novelty item which has unfairly taken on a wider significance? By 2004, the reputation of the deep-
with their normal dinner service. The Cook School is also proving popular
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a worldwide symbol of all that is
Graham Buchan and his small kitchen Robert Vaiciulis on the eve of their
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The deep-fried Mars bar has become
the Good Food Guide. Not bad going for squad of Julien Miran (Pastry Chef) and
It’s been another good year for the Cowshed Restaurant and Cook School in Banchory. Their great food has been recognised at last, with the team attaining a 2AA Rosette, a listing in the Michelin Guide and a recommendation in
Are Mars Eaters from Another Planet
and is going from strength to strength, with courses on Cupcakes, CanapĂŠs,
fried Mars bar had travelled the Atlantic and it was mentioned on the Jay Leno Show in the US.
Petit-Fours, Bread Making and Perfect
But is it a widespread phenomenon
Steaks
or has its reputation outstripped its
being
favoured.
Cooking
enthusiasts are offered a range of evening, half-day and full day courses.
popularity?
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Mixing it up at Soul There are lots of exciting things happening at Soul this festive season. Attracting a fashionable crowd, Soul is ‘the place to be seen’, and is perfect for celebrating a special occasion, corporate entertaining, or simply drinks and cocktails. Not only is it one of Aberdeen’s most stunning venues, it also serves delicious pub grub seven days a week! Soul has built a reputation for serving excellent high quality and extensive food menus, and Soul’s talented chefs have been working hard to put together a tasty winter lunch and dinner menu, with warming dishes such as Oxtail Hot Pot, Confit Duck Stroganoff, and Mushroom and Chestnut Wellington. Soul is also offering a tasty festive menu for large groups and parties, so you can still tuck into your traditional turkey dinner and Soul’s own Christmas pudding!
delicious selection of creative Christmasinspired cocktails, and some warming alternatives such as Hot Toddy, Mulled Wine and their special festive Hot Chocolate.
Launching the very same day as the new winter menus, the bar is proud to be releasing this year’s Christmas Cocktail and Winter Warmers Menu, which has a
Soul truly has everything you need to celebrate this festive season, and has all the right ingredients to give you a true ‘sense of being’.
This year, Soul also has a packed Christmas entertainment diary, which features the return of world-class entertainer, The Sax Man, and talented local singer-songwriters Myke Black and Stephen Innes. House DJ Barry Clarkson will also be playing every Thursday, Friday and Saturday throughout December. As if all that wasn’t enough, if you plan to continue to party the night away after visiting Soul, all customers who book a table for dinner or a Mixology class at Soul on a Friday or Saturday night will receive complimentary guest list passes to Babylon, one of Aberdeen’s premier nightclubs!
News Bites It’s The Forum For Us The Forum Hogmanay Party returns this year so you can party your way into 2013 in style, featuring “Leppard & The Big Cats” – Aberdeen’s funkiest Motown, Soul, Disco Party Band, and a Party DJ playing all your favourite hits. Open from 10pm until late, why not treat yourself to Hogmanay fine dining at
neighbouring
Stage
Door
Restaurant beforehand? Earlybird tickets are £15, available for a limited time only, standard tickets only £20, available from The Stage Door Restaurant. The dress code is smart casual, but no trainers please.
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Farmer Booth at The Store in Foveran only uses the finest local ingredients and this is evident in the fabulous ‘softies’. Grab a sausage (made on the premises) or bacon softie or tuck into the freshest eggs on toast. (Try to extend your stay until lunch for a mouth-watering handmade burger). Foveran, Newburgh, Ellon. For the full works try the Big Scottish Breakfast at Recipes. Also on the menu are eggs benedict, an omelette of your choice or tasty breakfast rolls. Good places to try if you’re a vegetarian as the Veggie Breakfasts are delicious. Jesmond Drive, Bridge of Don, Aberdeen. Café Coast on the Beach Boulevard has a great value breakfast with six items on offer with tea or coffee for only £4.10. Pop in early at 8.00am. for a great start to the day. Beach Boulevard, Aberdeen. The City Café is one of my favourite places to meet up with friends. Enjoy a morning bowl of porridge, beans on toast, or a bulging bacon roll. The city centre location makes it an ideal venue. Netherkirkgate, (Behind M&S) Aberdeen. For a delicious breakfast 7 days a week visit Dobbies Garden World. You can choose from 6 items from the hot server, accompanied by toast and either a pot of tea or coffee for only £5.95. Great value and yummy! Lang Stracht, Aberdeen. A bit out of town, but well worth the visit is the tearoom on the Finzean Estate. My favourite is the Stornoway black pudding on a toasted bun topped with a local free-range egg. They make their own fresh rolls so the bacon butties are fantastic. There’s the usual bacon and eggs and for something a little difference try the Scottish pancakes with a range of toppings. Balnaboth Steading, Finzean, Banchory.
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Rillette of Smoked, Poached and Hot Smoked Salmon This makes a lovely festive starter for Christmas Day. Nick Nairn
Ingredients For the rillette: • 245g fresh salmon • 175g hot smoked salmon, flaked • 100g smoked salmon, finely shredded • 1 banana shallot, finely chopped • 1/4 cucumber, deseeded and finely diced • 2 tsp fresh dill, chopped • tbsp crème fraîche • tbsp Hellmann’s mayonnaise • zest of 1 lemon • black pepper For the dressing: • 1 tsp dill, finely chopped • 1 tsp miniature salted capers, rinsed • 1 tsp gherkins, finely chopped • 100ml olive oil • black pepper • lemon juice to taste For the thyme crostini: • stale white bread • sprig of thyme • olive oil • salt and black pepper • salad cress and available herbs to garnish
Method 1. First make the dressing. Mix all the dressing ingredients together in a small jug, taste then leave to infuse. 2. Next make the thyme crostini. You could buy Melba toast, or simply sprinkle olive oil, salt, pepper and thyme onto some thinly sliced stale white bread and bake in a 170C oven until crisp. Keep aside until serving. 3. To poach the fresh salmon, bring a pan of water to the boil with a pinch of salt and a squeeze of lemon. There should be enough water to just cover your fish. When it’s boiling, gently drop in the salmon, skin on, and leave for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave until cooled. The fish should be opaque but not overcooked. Remove, peel off the skin, scrape off the brown muscle and flake into largish pieces. 4. For the rillette, place all the ingredients except for the crème fraîche and mayonnaise into a bowl and gently mix. Do not over mix; you want to keep the fish in as large pieces as possible. 5. Next, add just enough crème fraîche and mayonnaise to bind and hold together the fish. Remember you can always add more but it’s hard to remove - too sloppy and your rillette won’t hold its shape. 6. Place small metal rings on cold plates and spoon your mix into the rings. Leave for a minute to settle then remove the moulds. Pour dressing round and sprinkle greens around the plate. We’ve used micro greens, but cress and any herbs, such as chives and dill, would work well. Serve with the thyme crostini.
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