The Inevitable Rise of Easternisation
Can the growing affluence of the East overthrow the reigning influence of the West?
Sayuri Standing N0442132 Negotiated Project Stage One Module code: FASH30001 Module leader: Matt Gill
Conte Section One
6 8 14 18 26 30 38 42
An Introduction The West Over the Rest Globalisation and Modernisation The Eastern Beast The Declined Trust in Western Thinking Consequences of Globalisation A Solution in Chinese Wisdom Research Evaluation
One Two Three Four Five Six
Section Two 44 46 50 62 68 70 74 82 88 98 102
The Big Idea Dian Band: How it Works Creative Concept Branding China: Shanghai Tang vs. Shang Xia PEST/E Analysis TOMS Responsible Fashion The Consumer Integrated Marketing Strategy Future Growth Conclusion
Seven Eight Case Study Nine Case Study Ten Eleven Twelve Thirteen
Word Count List of References Bibliography List of Illustrations
104 106 109 110 4
ents 114
Appendices
116 117 118 124 126 128 138 140 146 160 176
One Two Three Four Five Six Seven Eight Nine Ten Eleven
Declaration Form Ethical Clearance Checklist Tutorial Record Sheets Critical Path Methodology Interview Transcripts and Street Style Consumer Profile Interviews Professional interviews Consent Forms Visual Inspiration Scamps and Product Development
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“We are now entering one of the most plastic moments of world history� - Kishore Mahbubani, author, dean and public policy professor at the National University of Singapore, The New Asian Hemisphere (2008, p.4). Fig.1: Kishore Mahbubani speaking at the Australian Institute of Company Directors Conference (AICD, 2012).
INTRODUCTION
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he influences of the West infiltrate every corner of the urbanised world. The ideas and innovations conceived within the Occidental nations have massively impacted the rest of the globe, for better or for worse. Many have received Western products well and in doing so, the influence has surpassed the physical adoption of the product, towards the metaphysical appropriation of the culture implied within it. What exactly is it about products of the Occident and its culture that are so attractive and easily adoptable by the rest of the world? For example, how has denim - a textile originally built for American cowboys - become the global uniform of the 21st century? How have UK subcultures such as mods and punks incited such
Fig.2: Joseph Nye (Alex Wong/Getty, 2014).
Section One
An Introduction 8
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
Why do so many nonAmericans aspire to the ‘American Dream’? resonance and re-appropriation with those in the East? Why do so many non-Americans aspire to the ‘American Dream’? Having said that, in the past decade or so, we are starting to see a shift of power reversal in play. For the first time in history, the East is surpassing the West in economic caliber and China specifically, is well on its way to knocking the United States off the top spot as the world’s economic performance leader. In this report, I will be examining the positive effects of Westernisation, globalisation
and modernisation alongside its damaging effects, and how they have specifically affected China and the Far East. I will then analyse Chinese customs and practices and see how these can be distributed at a commercial level to a global market on the back of their rising soft power. At the end of this section, I will evaluate if there is a solution rooted within philosophies from Chinese culture that can counterbalance the damaging effects caused by Westernisation. My evaluations are formed based on statistics,
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news and commentary from a broad range of sources but also heavily from the theories presented by professors Joseph Nye and Kishore Mahbubani who are authors of The Paradox of American Power and The New Asian Hemisphere, respectively. In evaluation of the current economic and social climate, and from market insights regarding products of mass culture, I will conclude the report with a proposition of a marketable product that will communicate Eastern values to a global market. The product will be made with the aim to counterbalance the damaging effects of Westernisation by applying the traditional philosophies of Easternisation - whilst benefiting societies at both East and West. Can the growing affluence of the East, overthrow the reigning influence of the West?
Chapter One
The West Over the Rest
“The US’s soft power spreads from the phone in your pocket to the art on your wall. Americans and their inventions have a greater influence over our lives than any other nationality.” – Steve Bloomfield, Foreign Editor, Monocle (December 2014, p. 53)
THE WEST OVER THE REST
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he West, or the Occident, consists of any nation lying within the Earth’s Western hemisphere - although it often implies the major power players who are North America and (particularly Western) Europe. Despite being an ocean apart, the Occidental nations share several commonalities such as a capitalist political system, predominantly Caucasian race and shared “values of democracy, personal freedom, upward mobility, and openness” (Nye 2002, p. 11). These dispositional assets are identified within
the ‘The American Dream’ - a national ideology that encourages enterprise by promising a rich and fulfilled life through hard work that is achievable by all, regardless of your social status or circumstances at birth. This mindset was first coined by Nye as “soft power,” which is “the ability to establish preferences… associated with intangible power resources such as attractive culture, ideology and institutions,” it “co-opts people rather than coerces them” (2002 p.9). This contrasts against “hard power,” which is measured upon the tangible strengths of a nation such as its economy and military.
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Fig.2: Cover photo from the film Of Mice and Men where the American Dream is explored in its narrative (Metro-GoldwynMayer Studios Inc., 1992).
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
‘The American Dream’ - a national ideology that encourages enterprise by promising a rich and fulfilled life through hard work that is achievable by all, regardless of your social status or circumstances at birth.
THE WEST OVER THE REST
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hrough technological innovation, this soft power is transferred across into its popular culture. The West’s idealistic outlook is distributed from its politics through to its film, television and music, inspiring the dreams and desires of others. This mindset is aspirational for those outside of the West, for better or for worse. For example, beauty standards in the East have augmented in preference of the physical characteristics obtained by Western Caucasians. This has led to the high demand of whitening skin creams in Far East Asia (produced by MNCs such as Nivea) and a worrying increase in cosmetic surgery, particularly in South Korea. This influence is portrayed in a documentary by Journeyman Pictures entitled China’s Tortured Beauties: Make Me Look Western as one such damaging example of Westernisation (2013). In other cases, Westernisation has been a positive influence.
Their pragmatism has influenced design massively, one of the most common examples being the revolution of denim. Once a resilient fabric made for American cowboys to prevent injury, is now
Fig.4
worn globally for its practicality, versatility and comfort. The original denim pioneers Levi Strauss and Co., are now a household name worldwide with revenue of $4.68 billion (Forbes, 2014: online). On a metaphysical level, the Western promotion of free speech has enabled better quality of life by allowing the Joe public to demand for their rights. Thousands of Hong Kong citizens took to the streets in 2014 in demand for democracy in a way they wouldn’t have been able to before. Free speech has also materialised into some of the most prominent fashion movements of the centuries with the emergence of anarchic subcultures, such as the punk movement of the 1970s. Vivienne Westwood, the British fashion designer also known as a punk veteran, is extremely popular in the Far East and her designs have inspired distinguished style tribes such as the gothic Visual Kei style in Japan.
The West’s idealistic outlook is distributed from its politics through to its film, television and music, inspiring the dreams and desires of others. 14
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
Fig.6
Fig.5
Clockwise from far left: Fig.4 - Skin whitening lotion sold in China (Aitupian.com, 2015); Fig.5 - The Japanese Visual Kei rock band X Japan (Denim and Leather Metal Zine, 2014); Fig.6 - Vivienne Westwood with a model at her SS10 runway show (Melty Fashion, 2009); Fig.7 - An 1889 trading card reimagined for Levi’s Vintage SS13 campaign (Rivet Head, 2013). 15
Fig.7
Chapter Two
Globalisation& Modernisation
“Globalisation - and the economic growth that springs from it - are the rocks in which democracies are founded. It is no coincidence that the richest countries in the world, like America and the European nations, are the most stable democracies.� - Johan Norberg, author, lecturer and documentary filmmaker, Globalization is Good (2003)
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GLOBALISATION & MODERNISATION
t is the embrace of globalisation and modernisation, catalysed through democracy and free trading regulations, which have enabled the West to prosper. It may not be obvious, but the United States are a syncretic culture and itself a product of 17th and 18th century globalization by taking the best of other cultures to form its own. Many confuse globalisation and modernisation as similar to Westernisation because of the many successful MNCs (multinational corporations) such as Apple and Google, which are described by Monocle as “two of the most important consumer-facing brands of the 21st century,” (December 2014, p. 54)
which originally hailed from the West. Undeniably, the US serves well as a central hub to globalization. As Nye explains: it takes place in its language (English, the lingua franca), it is organised along neoliberal economic principles and they are advocates of individualism – a crucial asset in facilitating successful entrepreneurship leading to the MNCs of today. Wall Street, Silicon Valley and Hollywood are all leading headquarters in finance, technology and cinema respectively, and they are all based in the US. It is not intentionally a case of “the West over the rest,” but it is no coincidence that “globalisation wears a ‘Made in USA’ label,” for its central role in the process (2002, p.1).
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It is no coincidence that globalisation wears a ‘Made in USA’ label
Fig.8: Apple CEO Tim Cook demonstrates the iPhone 6 and iWatch (Getty, 2014).
The Eastern Beast Chapter Three
“The ‘rise of China’ is a misnomer. ‘Reemergence’ would be more accurate, since by size and history the Middle Kingdom has long been a major power in East Asia. Technically and economically, China was the world’s leader (though without global reach) from 500 to 1500. Only in the last half millennium was it overtaken by Europe and America.” – Joseph Nye, Harvard University professor and author, The Paradox of American Power (2002, p. 20).
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THE EASTERN BEAST
Fig.9: Propaganda artwork from the Cultural Revolution (The History Blog, 2011).
n China, there was evidence of globalisation as early as the Tang Dynasty (618-906). The Metropolitan Museum of Art describe the era as a time:
“marked by strong and benevolent rule, successful diplomatic relationships, economic expansion, and a cultural efflorescence of cosmopolitan style… China emerged as one of the greatest empires in the medieval world. Merchants, clerics, and envoys from India, Persia, Arabia, Syria, Korea, and Japan thronged the streets of Chang’an, the capital, and foreign tongues were a common part of daily life” (2000: online).
20 years ago, China was a long way from being a global superpower. 22
Fig.10: Tang Dynasty Artwork ‘Night-Shining White’ by Han Gan, CA. 750 (Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2008).
It was “only 20 years ago, China was a long way from being a global superpower. After the protests in Tiananmen Square led to a massacre in 1989, its economic reforms were under threat from conservatives and it faced international isolation. Then in early 1992, like an emperor undertaking a progress, the late Deng Xiaoping set out on a ‘southern tour’ of the most reformminded provinces. An astonishing endorsement of reform, it was a masterstroke from the man who made modern China. The economy has barely looked back since” (The Economist, 2012: online).
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C
THE EASTERN BEAST
hina boasts the fastest growing economy in the world and is listed as one of the major emerging BRIC economies (an acronym for Brazil, Russia, India and China). Figures from the Centre for Economics and Business Research (CEBR) show that China is already, in 2015, the world’s second largest economy behind the United States (both sharing a double A credit rating) and three places ahead of the United Kingdom (i100, 2014: online). Mahbubani explains that this rapid modernisation has reduced the number of civilians living in absolute poverty from six hundred million to two hundred million. At the current growth rate, standards of living are set to rise 100 fold and possibly by 10,000% within a human life span (2008, p.1).
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China’s strength in affluence will parallel its own soft power
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
Fig.11: World’s top five largest economies in 2014 by GDP (Standing, 2015). 25
THE EASTERN BEAST
A
lthough China is still ruled by the Communist Party, the introduction of economic reforms in the late 1970s allowed: ownership of land; privatization of previously stateowned companies; foreign trade and investment; and entrepreneurs to set up businesses without being hindered by strict regulations. Most significantly, however, it injected democracy, freedom, individualism and upward mobility into the minds of the Chinese. The American Dream was suddenly made possible in the East. Mahbubani elaborates:
“At the heart of Asia’s story – often overlooked – is the empowerment of hundreds of millions of individuals who previously had felt a total sense of powerlessness in their lives… When many Western observers look at China, they cannot see beyond the lack of a democratic political system. They miss the massive democratization of the human spirit that is taking place in China. Hundreds of millions of Chinese who thought they were destined for endless poverty now believe that they can improve their lives through their own efforts… The real value of freemarket economics is not just in the improvements in economic productivity. It is about how it uplifts the human spirit and liberates the minds of hundreds of millions of people who now feel that they can finally take charge of their destinies. This is why Asia is marching forward” (2008, p. 18).
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THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
This newfound optimism has provoked a hunger for education and an enterprising spirit in Asia. The EF English Proficiency Index for Companies (EF EPI-c) claim “there are now more Chinese people learning English than there are native English speakers on the planet” (Harvard Business Review, 2015: online). With the added strength as the world’s most populous nation, China is set to overthrow the US as the world’s economic performance leader since 1872 (when it surpassed Britain at the top spot). In doing so, China’s strength in affluence will parallel its own soft power, which will undoubtedly reverse or counterbalance the antiquated effects of Occidentalism with a new global outlook and influence.
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The Declined Trust in Western Thinking Chapter Four
“What could be more quintessentially American than one of its companies barging into another country with a fleet of lobbyists, trying to undermine local laws and culture with little more than a well-capitalised business model and an evangelical belief in the free market?� – Steve Bloomfield, Foreign Editor, Monocle (December 2014, p. 53)
S
THE DECLINED TRUST IN WESTERN THINKING
everal events of the past decade have contributed to the growing distrust of Western thinking and the world is starting to see that the Western mindset is paradoxical and flawed. Nye describes the tragic events of September 11, 2001 as “a wake-up call for Americans”: a sign that they had been complacent in the 1990s in their power (2002, p.ix). American hegemony has since been aggravated by paranoia and the US are desperately attempting to grasp at their authority by exerting their outdated practices whilst contradicting them all at the same time. Mahbubani highlights that “the West has gone from being competent to becoming incompetent in the handling of many key global challenges, from the threat of terrorism to climate change to keeping the nuclear nonproliferation regime alive” (2008, p.9). The first major example of this was the handling of the Iraq Invasion in 2003 between the US and UK: “Neither Bush nor Blair had malevolent intentions, yet their mental approach was trapped in a limited cultural context: the Western mindset” (2008, p.4). The 2008 collapse of investment bank Lehman Brothers catalysed the demise of Western immortality to what became the global financial crisis. It was the first sign that a democratic government could no longer be relied upon, even at home.
“Up to that point, it had been assumed that governments would always step in to bail out any bank that got into serious trouble” (The Guardian, 2011: online). Subsequently in August 2011, the United States lost its Triple A credit rating, which was highlighted by The Guardian in the same article as “the day when US hegemony was lost.”
“The NSA spying scandal was the most clumsy deployment of post-September 11 might” A most recent example was the National Security Agency (NSA) spying scandal in 2013 where it was revealed tens of millions telephone records had been collected for Government surveillance. Monocle described it as “the most clumsy deployment of post-September 11 might.” Not only did the scandal demonstrate a severe distrust the US had with its own countrymen; it simultaneously contradicted the very core national values in freedom America are so renowned for. “For a country whose global image has been tied to a universal devotion to personal freedoms, this photo op framed that value and all the messiness it entails” (December 2014, p. 54).
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THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
Fig.12: German protests against the NSA spying scandal (JimBovard.com, 2014). 31
Chapter Five
Consequences of Globalisation
“At the beginning of the twenty-first century, the American economy is about twice the size of China’s. If the American economy grows at a 2% rate and China’s grows at 6%, the two economies would be equal in size sometime around 2020. Even so, the two economies would be equivalent in size but not equal in composition. China would still have a vast underdeveloped countryside [and] would not equal the United States in per capita income until somewhere between 2056 and 2095… In terms of political power, per capita income provides a more accurate measure of the sophistication of an economy.” – Figures from CIA World Fact Book 2000 and the World Bank, published in The Paradox of American Power by Joseph Nye (2002, p. 20).
c hina is a country of polarities and severe imbalance. It is worth noting that amidst China’s 9.6m kilometre squared expanse of land, all of its wealth is heavily concentrated within its few cities such as Shanghai and Beijing. Much of the country’s efforts to modernise are focused there and China’s Ministry of Civil Affairs has revealed that 54% of the whole population now live in cities (NPR, 2015: online). In 2002, there were 3.6 million
villages, which have since decreased to 2.7 million in 2012. As in the statement by Nye previously, much of China’s 9.6m kilometre squared mass of land remains underdeveloped in preference of modernisation – and the population who still live there remain in poverty. Modernisation may be contributing to the growth of China’s cities, but is simultaneously diminishing the quality of life for those in the countryside. 34
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CONSEQUENCES OF GLOBALISATION
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he most severe example of this is in Guiyu, a town in the Guangdong province. Guiyu is recognised globally as the world’s largest landfill for electronic waste (e-waste). Discarded electronics are shipped from all over the world, including plenty from the US. There are 5,500 businesses in Guiyu devoted to the processing of e-waste and will get through 1.5 million pounds of it per year. The workers are local villagers who live in poverty. They do not wear any protective equipment and their welfare is not monitored. In Guiyu however, the processing of e-waste is the only source of income and it generates $75 million a year in income for the town (Time, N.D.: online). The impacts of e-waste in Guiyu have undoubtedly been severe. Remnants of disused technology
pollute water supplies and the air is acrid with the smoke of burning plastics and chemicals. Greenpeace claim that 80% of the children living there suffer from respiratory diseases, there is a significantly high rate of miscarriages, and Shantou University says the town has the highest levels of cancer-causing dioxins in the world (The Sunday Times Magazine, November 2014, p. 66). Guiyu is the antipodal hub of globalisation. Whilst innovations in technology take place in Silicon Valley, California, it is those villagers in Guiyu, China who bear the ultimate brunt whenever a new model is launched into the world market. In the era of instant gratification, it is all too easy to dispose of our old computer, phone or television for the most recent upgrade, without realising where they might end up.
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THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
Guiyu is the antipodal hub of globalisation
CONSEQUENCES OF GLOBALISATION
Fig.13: Guiyu’s villagers sorting through the e-waste (Puckett/BAN, 2010).
China alone generates 6.1million tons of e-waste a year and is expected to overtake the US and become the world’s biggest source by 2017
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The US, despite being the leading agent in globalisation, “is the only industrialized country that refused to ratify the 19-year-old Basel Convention, an international treaty designed to regulate the export of hazardous waste to developing nations” (Time, 2009: online). This action makes clear that the US do not wish to claim responsibility for their own actions, and instead wish to carry on modernising for their personal benefit even if it is at the threatening expense of others. This is, once again, an example of America exercising their hegemony and another discredit against the faith in Western practice. The unilateral approach to leadership had worked in US favour for little over a century, but in this new shift of power reversal, Nye contests that “any retreat to a traditional policy focus on unipolarity, hegemony, sovereignty, and unilateralism will fail to
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
produce the right outcomes, and its accompanying arrogance will erode the soft power that is often part of the solution” (2002, p. xvi). Having said that, The Sunday Times Magazine (as before) also reported that China alone “generates 6.1million tons of e-waste a year and is expected to overtake the US and become the world’s biggest source by 2017” (November 2014, p. 66). That is evidence alone that China too is globalising and modernising in a reckless and
unsustainable manner in line with standards the US have set. Globalisation has long been a game played in favour to Western rules, which the rest have long wanted to participate in. As mentioned previously, it is organised along Western economic principles, takes place in their language and they reap the benefits of being a hegemonic society. Those on the outside who once thought they were destined for poverty, wish to replicate the West and
reap the virtues that can be seen at face value. They will only assume that similar success can only be achieved using the similar methods. The emerging nations are following by example of the already-prosperous West and adopting their practices as proper - but they are refusing to acknowledge the damaging consequences. In the case of China, it needs to readdress its national values to counterbalance the blind spot in antiquated Western thinking.
Chapter Six
A Solution in Chinese Wisdom
“We predict firms operating in China will soon achieve what happened in Japan, except probably faster. Remember that, not so long ago, Japanese consumers were convinced that premium cars had to be German; whisky, Scottish; and cosmetics, French. Japanese firms soon caught up and convinced Japanese luxury buyers, and buyers everywhere, to switch to Lexus, Suntory and Shiseido.� - Haiyang Yang, Pierre Chandon and Frederic Godart, South China Morning Post (30 January 2015: online)
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A SOLUTION IN CHINESE WISDOM
hina’s traditional customs and values are deep-rooted in Confucianism, which are “the system of ethics, education, and statesmanship taught by Confucius and his disciples, stressing love for humanity, ancestor worship, reverence for parents, and harmony in thought and conduct” (Random House Dictionary, 2015: online). These set of morals are still strongly resonant amongst Chinese people today and are often manifested within contemporary Chinese branding. Ma Ke is a luxury fashion designer admired by US Vogue Editor Anna Wintour, “who is deeply philosophical and approaches her work from a Buddhist and Confucianist perspective” (The Wall Street Journal, 2015: online). Although, Mahbubani argues that “ideological straitjackets” (2008, p. 6) can hinder the
prosperity and progression of a nation, Confucianism has already proven to have “enhanced China’s soft power,” according to Nye (2002, p.20). Its ideologies
Fig.14: Zhijun Wang models his Nike Flyknit mask (Freshness Mag, 2014).
preach only virtuous qualities in respect and harmony between peers and a constant necessity for learning. The latter quality, a fundamental attribute towards development and progression. However, Chinese wisdom
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stems from simpler roots and is expressed regularly in its very language. For example, the word ‘crisis’ in Chinese is the combination of two characters: ‘danger’ and ‘opportunity.’ Mahbubani suggests that Westerners should reflect on this style of thinking as “too many Western minds are looking at dangers; few are looking at opportunities” (2008, p.9). In hindsight, the Chinese should be more likely to respond in a constructive manner over Westerners when faced with crisis. An admirable example of this in action is by Zhijun Wang, a sneaker designer from Taiwan. Wang deconstructed pairs of Reebok and Nike trainers to create facemasks that protect against the severe air pollution caused by the rapid urbanisation in Chinese cities. He trialled his own designs when he
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
“Western minds should reflect on the Chinese wisdom in translating the Western word “crisis” by combining two Chinese characters, “danger” and “opportunity.” Too many Western minds are looking at dangers; few are looking at opportunities.” - Kishore Mahbubani, The New Asian Hemisphere
ran a 10km marathon in Beijing and claims his masks significantly eased his run (Shoes Up, Fall 2014, p. 48). The irony in his designs is that they are deconstructions of Western products to directly address a contemporary Chinese issue. While the masks do not express Chinese heritage and tradition on an aesthetic level, the wisdom and thinking is embedded within its purpose. Can this kind of pragmatic thinking be applied to address the crisis in Guiyu?
Fig.15: Ma Ke design (China Design, 2008).
End of Section One
Research Evaluation
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T hrough my research, I have evaluated that China’s rising economy is commendable of the individual efforts of the Chinese people who have embraced their new-found liberation and acted upon the enterprising opportunities that are now available to them. However, in an attempt
Guiyu, which has suffered at the expense of Western development for years to now pay the price further for the advancement of its own country. By adhering to Western systems, China has caused suffering to and betrayed its own natives. Although the damage has
The simplest way to do this is by acknowledging the crisis, recognising the danger, and seeking an opportunity.
to imitate Western success they have taken a Western direction in their industrious crusade that has proved all the more damaging because of the rapid pace in which they are developing. The evidence of the damage caused by globalisation and modernisation - and the byproduct of Westernisation - is most abundant in
already hit critical levels, in order to prevent the crisis from alleviating any further, China needs to be mindful in the way it continues to modernise and readdress its traditional principles to reduce the damage it has already caused. The simplest way to do this is by acknowledging the crisis, recognising the danger, and seeking an opportunity.
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The Big Section Idea Two
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f Guiyu is the crisis in question, and e-waste is the danger, then what is the opportunity? How can a mass market product raise awareness of the crisis in Guiyu yet directly minimise the destruction being caused there? My research has led me to the idea of the Dian Band. The Dian Band is a sustainable wristband made of the recycled components sourced from discarded electronic devices.
Chapter Seven
Dian Band: How it Works
D
ian Band will source the e-waste from electronic recycling companies, electronic goods manufacturers who offer returns services of their old models – such as Dell and Sony (Time, 2009: online) – and by encouraging their own consumer base to send in their disused gadgets. An in-house team will dismantle the electronic parts and reassemble them into the Dian Band jewellery range in a regulated environment so the safety of the workers are ensured. The charity wristband is an easy and accessible method of showing support for a cause and a visible demonstration to others you support said cause, thus creating a community of likeminded supporters.
The charity wristband is an easy and accessible method of showing support for a cause and a visible demonstration to others you support said cause, thus creating a community of likeminded supporters.
H
owever, charity wristbands can have a short life of popularity and can fall under the trap of becoming a gimmick. This is partly down to its limited design range that is typically silicone, basic in design, garish in colour and generally aesthetically displeasing. Wearers become bored of sporting the same item that may not have necessarily adhered to their tastes to begin with (see Appendix 7). A case in example is the infamous canary-yellow Livestrong band that was extremely popular in the early 2000s. One might argue they ceased in popularity the same time founder Lance Armstrong fell from grace as
Fig.16: Links of London charm bracelet (John Greed, N.D.)
Fig.17: Livestrong wristband (Livestrong, N.D.)
doping accusations against him were proved to be true. Despite the Livestrong Foundation’s exemplary efforts in distancing themselves from its celebrity founder, the bands have disappeared off people’s wrists and no efforts in renewing the band’s design, campaign or expanding the product range has been made. The concept behind Dian Band is inspired in equal parts by charity wristbands, charm bracelets and the ‘One for One’ business model pioneered by TOMS Shoes (see Case Study). By adopting the charm bracelet model, Dian Band prevents itself from
becoming stagnant by endorsing customisation, upselling and frequent product expansion. The idea is a reinvigoration of a classic business model inspired by the success of Pandora, Thomas Sabo and Links of London. All of these brands, however, credit success to their mass appeal. By designing a charm to cater to every occasion and incorporating every theme, and ensuring they’re affordable (Pandora charms start from £15) they allow the customer to build their own ‘story’ by curating their own custom-built bracelet that is individual to the beholder (Professional Jeweller, 2014: online).
Fig.18: Pandora print campaign 2014 (Fashion Hospital, 2014).
Chapter Eight
Creative Concept
E very aspect of the Dian Band is made from recycled e-waste components, making it 100% sustainable and minimising waste by utilising as much of the source material as possible. This is carried through to its disk drive packaging and computer case display cabinets in-store – demonstrations of sustainability at every level and making good talking points.
CREATIVE CONCEPT
T
he wristband itself will be made of woven textile fibres broken down from the plastic casings of discarded gadgets using a similar production method that G-Star use to create the ‘Bionic Yarn’ for their RAW for the Oceans range (see Chapter Ten). The initial offering will come in a small range of bold block colours alongside black and white options. The decision to keep the bands relatively plain was made in order to compliment and contrast the intricately detailed chips that adorn them, and to avoid too much visual noise. However, for future development, more colour ways and patterned bands will be introduced into the range.
Fig.19: 3D mock-up of plain Dian wristband in Electric Blue (Standing, 2015).
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THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
55
Fig.20: 2D mock-ups of plain Dian wristbands in five colourways (Standing, 2015).
T
CREATIVE CONCEPT
he ‘charms’ - which will be coined as ‘chips’ under Dian Band’s branding will be made using the various metals found within the body of electronic products. The different metals will be melted together, creating a marbled effect and will be engraved from a selection of circuitry-inspired patterns. On the back of each chip is a symbol that tells you which device that particular chip was sourced from, such as a television or a mobile phone. LOGO CHIP
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Fig.21: Front and back mock-ups of Dian chips in five designs (Standing, 2015).
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
The marbled metals show the unique selection of metals each device requires and creates different colour ways between chips. It also tells the wearer the origins of their jewellery, highlighting the transparency in its manufacture and creating a story around the product. The marbling effect in itself produces different results between chips, ensuring no two are the same. Critics might argue that the metals are best separated by variety especially precious ones such as
Gold, and a ‘premium’ range of pure recycled precious metals is a definite prospect for future expansion. However, the marbled metal effect has rarely been achieved before most certainly not on a commercial level – thus presenting Dian an opportunity to become leader in its own market by becoming the only accessory brand championing marbled metals. The geometrical nature of circuit board wiring corresponds fittingly with the composition of Chinese characters
and gives way to embedding Chinese phrases discreetly in the jewellery’s artwork. The initial product offering will have the logo and four patterns to choose from, encrypting significant words relating to Dian’s cause: from ‘waste’ (fèiwù) to ‘hope’ (xiwàng). Fusing Chinese culture - which is often associated with Dynasty heritage (see Branding China Case Study) - with a futuristic aesthetic creates distinct branding that makes raising awareness of Dian Band’s cause easier to promote.
The ‘charms’ will be coined as ‘chips’ under Dian Band’s branding
Fig.22: 3D mock-up of Dian Band with chips (Standing, 2015).
CREATIVE CONCEPT
Fig.23: 2D mock-ups of Dian Bands in different styling options (Standing, 2015).
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THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
To achieve the desired aesthetic in Dian Band’s branding, I took inspiration from contemporary Asian graphic designers and typographers, such as the Taiwanese Chu-Chieh Lee and Ivan Ip from Hong Kong (whose work can be seen in the moodboards overleaf), who specialise in augmenting Asian characters into modern graphic and illustrative forms. I also referenced Oriental ‘seal’ stamps (see moodboard overleaf), which is most evident in the final logo design. In China, Taiwan, Japan and Korea, it is not commonplace to pen your signature as most households will hold a
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stamp that bears their family name neatly formed within the stamp’s red square. These little red imprints are commonly seen in the corners of Far Eastern paintings. Customisation, individualism and transparency are all key concepts expressed within the Dian Band’s construction. The Dian chips will be niche in their marbled metal bases and contrasting circuitryengraved design, and every chip will bear these idiosyncratic features of the brand. However, with a selection of colour ways of bands and an assortment of chips to choose from, the wearer can make Dian Band their own.
Fig.24: Oriental typography moodboard (Standing, 2015).
Fig.25: Hanko stamp moodboard (Standing, 2015).
CREATIVE CONCEPT
Fig.26: Logo development (Standing, 2015). 62
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
Logo Development
Fig.27: Disk drive Dian Band packaging mock-up (Standing, 2015).
LOGO CHIPBand logo chip (Standing, 2015). Fig.28: Dian
Fig.29: Dian Band P.O.S. retail stand mock-up (Standing, 2015). 63
Case Study
Branding China Shanghai Tang vs. Shang Xia
T
here are a few luxury fashion brands who have the celebration of Chinese heritage at its aesthetic core. They incorporate details from traditional dress into their designs and embed symbolic motifs as graphic prints. Shanghai Tang was one of the first brands championing this and their tagline is to “ReOrient Yourself.� Established in 1920s Hong Kong by founder David Tang, it was once a
high-end sartorial souvenir shop for wealthy expatriates who wanted to take a bit of China home. After a major strategy shift, the label now counts the Chinese for 51% of its consumer-base (Telegraph Luxury, 2014a: online), although still remaining genuine to the brand’s core of selling contemporised garments built upon traditional Chinese heritage.
BRANDING CHINA
Raphael Le Masnet De Chermont is the executive chairman of Shanghai Tang responsible for introducing the brand back to its grassroots demographic. He addresses “[The new generation] like to mix and match; they the shift in travel. The head-to-toe looks of 10 years ago have the tastes of gone. People are so smart in China. They are very their Chinese consumers: savvy in the way they dress and they have an
incredible sense of aesthetic. My belief is that we are going to see a serious drop in the monogram business, because the formula is passé. Brands need to readdress that. Now, they are all working on authenticity and heritage. But I wouldn’t do it too much as it sounds fake sometimes. The Chinese will be branding China more, in more categories” (Business of Fashion, 2013: online).
Fig.30: Raphael Le Masnet De Chermont (Billionaire, 2014).
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
Fig.31: Shanghai Tang SS14 campaign (Bernardin, 2014).
Fig.32: Shanghai Tang Dragon Burgundy wine glass detail (Shanghai Tang, 2015). 67
Once the leader in its own niche, Shanghai Tang now faces plenty of competition from both emerging local talent to opportunistic Western labels eager to capitalise upon the affluent new nation of shoppers with disposable income to hand. Le Masnet De Chermont elaborates: “Because China is the new hotspot, everyone is becoming Chinese. Just because they put dragons on something they think it will sell. We have tried to cut all the clichés about China from all our product. Everything is toned down” (Business of Fashion, 2013: online). The comment seems laughably ironic however, as Shanghai Tang decorate their products – particularly their homewares – in an abundance of stereotype-laden motifs (see Appendix 8, p. 143). They too, emboss their wine glasses and smartphone cases in dragons.
BRANDING CHINA
S
hanghai Tang’s major competitor of recent years is Shang Xia, described as “a brand that celebrates its ‘Chineseness,’” and also the “cultural investment project” financed by French luxury label Hermès. Shang Xia was founded by Jiang Qiong’er who oversees the creative direction with the aims of reconnecting the current generation to its “creative past before centuries of craftsmanship die out”. The designs draw heavily from Dynasty heritage and Confucius culture with an incessant focus on craftsmanship. Every product online features a breakdown and accompanying film showing its construction. The branding, although disparate from Shanghai
Tang, also paints an overidealistic, clichéd and stereotype-driven image of Chinese culture. Even in-store, customers are supposedly “served Chinese tea in translucent porcelain teacups” (Financial Times, 2012: online). It can often be disillusioning, when a brand claiming to be authentic aggressively promotes Chinese culture despite having heavy foreign involvement behind the scenes. People of the Mainland in particular, are most receptive of artifice such as this (Wall Street Journal, 2010: online blog). It might come as tlittle surprise then, that even Hermès Chief Executive Patrick Thomas admits Shang Xia will only start to break even in 2016 (Wall Street Journal, 2014:online).
Fig.33: Jiang Qiong’er (Shang Xia, 2015).
It can often be disillusioning, when a brand claiming to be authentic aggressively promotes Chinese culture despite having heavy foreign involvement behind the scenes
68
Fig.34: Bamboo woven tea set (Shang Xia, 2015).
Political Economica Social Technologi Environme Rise of UKIP and Green Party as major political parties // Alexander Litvinenko inquiry - State-backed assassination // Islamic State crisis
Austerity in Greece + Spain - Eurozone crisis // Oil price collapse // China slow down in annual GDP
Gender neutral debate // Hong Kong umbrella movement // Charlie Hebdo attack // Ebola crisis // Syrian civil war // War in Gaza
Rise in wearable tech - smart watches, fitness and wellness trackers // 3D printing // Record profits for Apple // Selfie craze // Data privacy // Mars Rover
E-waste crisis // ‘Aircopalypses’ Chinese pollution // Global warming // GM crops // Decline in fossil fuels
alPEST/E Chapter Nine
Analysis
Consumers are starting to acknowledge the consequences of their reckless consumption and carbon footprint
ien-
T
he PEST/E chart highlights major shifts in political thinking as smaller parties such as UKIP and the Green Party start to overtake the Liberal Democrats as they show signs of becoming major contenders. This is partly due to the growing distrust of politicians, exemplified in the Litvinenko inquiry against the Russian Government, and the Eurozone crisis that has bankrupted Greece and Spain. Despite the Chinese Yuan becoming the fifth most used payment currency globally and Chinese shoppers accounting for 27% of global luxury purchases
(LS:N Global, 2014), the country’s annual economic growth was at its lowest for 24 years. This is partly due to the slower demand for its products both at home and abroad (Telegraph Online, 2015: online), which demonstrates a need for reinvigoration of Chinese design and renewed approach to modernisation. With a seemingly neverending stream of continuous environmental crises, consumers are starting to acknowledge the consequences of their reckless consumption and carbon footprint. Therefore they are starting to eagerly contribute towards philanthropic causes and act sustainably.
TOMS Case Study
t
he TOMS brand launched in 2006 based on one simple concept: for every pair of shoes you bought from them, the company would provide a pair of shoes for a child in need. This has been named as the ‘One for One’ model. Their initial offering revolved around one style of canvas espadrille flat in a variety of colour schemes and pattern
designs. These simple yet comfortable shoes were inspired by the alpargatas shoes seen in Argentina where founder Blake Mycoskie first conceived the idea. In 2011, TOMS expanded into eyewear and pledged to restore eyesight in a person for every pair of sunglasses sold – once again, sticking to the One for One model.
Mycoskie is ambitiously planning to launch a new product every year and already has registered domain names for everything from wine and soft drinks to banking and financial services, ticket agencies to hotels
TOMS
T
OMS Roasting Company is the brand’s coffee venture which formed in 2014. It sells “artisanroasted beans that are ethically sourced from farmers’ co-ops in countries such as Peru, Malawi and Guatemala and sold in Wholefoods supermarkets across the US and in relaxed Toms stores/coffee shops/ community spaces” such as their Los Angeles, Austin and Amsterdam cafés (Telegraph Luxury, 2014b: online). For every bag of coffee beans sold, the company has pledged to provide clean water and sanitisation to the developing countries where the crops are grown. Mycoskie is ambitiously planning to launch a new product every year and already has registered domain names “for everything from wine and soft drinks to banking and financial services, ticket agencies to hotels” (Telegraph Luxury, 2014b: online). For every new product, the One for One
model ingrained in the brand’s DNA will provide aid towards a different project helping more and more people and communities in need. However, his most ambitious project is to move his shoemaking factories to the developing countries itself. The move came as a response to his critics who called out the company for being gimmicky and ineffective to the countries he was trying to help. He explained the new development to the Huffington Post: “If you really are serious about poverty alleviation, our critics said, then you need to create jobs.” The article continues: “Mycoskie said that by the end of 2015, Toms plans to have one-third of all shoes produced in the countries to which the company donates. Toms built a factory and hired locals in Kenya, and will expand this model to Ethiopia and Haiti in the coming months. Mycoskie points out that Toms will be the only shoe manufacturer with a factory and employees in Haiti” (2013: online).
74
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
“If you really are serious about poverty alleviation, then you need to create jobs”
Fig.36
Fig.37
Fig.38 Fig.35: Blake Mycoskie and TOMS eyewear range (Kovac/Getty, 2013).
75
Fig.36-38: TOMS women’s classic espadrille slide-ons (TOMS, 2015).
Chapter Ten
Ethical Sustainable Responsible Fashion
“The commitment towards how garments are made and materials used remains the key story reshaping today’s fashion industry. Environmentally friendly fabricsourcing proves to be a winning mindset and business strategy. Top brands from high street to designer... demonstrate how conscious sourcing enables companies to achieve growth by adding value through sustainability” – WGSN, Sustainable Fabrics Autumn/Winter 2015/16 (2015)
c
RESPONSIBLE FASHION
onsumers are starting to value sustainability more in the face of growing environmental crises. Dian Band falls into a new niche category of Responsible Fashion, which is a specific type of sustainable fashion where the consumer is aware of the direct changes they bring by wearing and purchasing a Responsible Fashion brand’s product. Responsible Fashion focuses on a specific ecological, economical or societal crisis and creates a solution that directly addresses it through fashion. The impacts the brand creates should be instant and visible to the consumer. All processes within the brand should be responsibly done: from its
production to manufacture and promotion. Every decision made by the brand should minimise the most waste and leave the smallest ecological footprint. Kenzo’s No Fish No Nothing collection bridges the gap between covetable luxury and necessary sustainability. The campaign uses an interactive microsite, surrealist film and a digital pop-up store to highlight the dangers of over-fishing. The digital platform enabled the brand to visualise the fish swimming in the sea. Whenever the consumer purchased an item from the collection, they could see how their purchase led to more fish appearing in the sea (LS:N Global, 2014).
Responsible Fashion focuses on a specific ecological, economical or societal crisis and creates a solution that directly addresses it
78
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
Fig.40: Look from Kenzo’s No Fish No Nothing collection (Kenzo, 2015).
Fig.39: Screenshots from Kenzo’s No Fish No Nothing microsite (Kenzo, 2015).
79
t
he new G-Star RAW for the Oceans collection in collaboration with rapper Pharrell Williams focuses specifically on converting the plastic bottles frequently dumped into the sea into the desirable, branded denim the label are recognised for. By using an icon of pop culture as a brand ambassador and graphical, characterbased branding, the issues of litter are heard loudly by the consumer through its microsite and appropriate celebrity seeding.
Fig.41: Pharrell Williams in G-Star Raw for the Oceans campaign (G-Star Raw, 2015).
RESPONSIBLE FASHION
By using an icon of pop culture as a brand ambassador, the issues of litter are heard loudly by the consumer Fig.42: Denim women’s cap from G-Star Raw for the Oceans collection (G-Star Raw, 2015).
percep RESPONSIBLE FASHION
Links of London
Ta
Pandora
T
COMMERCIAL
he entry price point within the Raw for the Oceans collection is RRP £35 for a recycled denim cap (fig.42, previous page). This coincides with the lowest price points of Pandora charm bracelets (£25 for the cheapest string bracelet and £15 for the cheapest charm – overall £40 for the whole look), and the cheapest TOMS slide-on espadrille which are £34.99 for the men’s or women’s styles. Using these brands as a rough guideline to judge Dian’s pricing, with consideration of the brand’s sustainable and ethical manufacture, the decision was made to price the Dian wristband to start at £15 and the chips to start at £20 in order for Dian to remain competitive yet still generate enough profit to benefit the Guiyu cause.
82
ptual map THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
PRICE
Astley Clarke
ateossian
DIAN BAND
PHILANTHROPIC
100 Good Deeds
Livestrong Shelterbox
Fig.43: Perceptual Map (Standing, 2015). 83
The Consumer
Chapter Eleven
T
he primary consumer of Dian Band will be between ages 16 to 25, ranging from the impressionable, tech-savvy and “keen to volunteer” Generation Z who “want to have an impact on the world” (Telegraph Online, 2014: online) to the politically “neoliberal” and equally tech-happy millennials (Mashable, N.D.: online). Both generations have good intentions and are philanthropic if it is made easy and accessible for them, therefore they are most likely to have taken part in the viral ‘No Make-Up Selfie’ or ALS ‘Ice Bucket Challenges’ on social media for various charities in 2014. As ‘Digital Natives,’ the younger of the tribes are most receptive to ad campaigns on social networks, as that is where they spend most of their time, usually engaging with an online community via their smartphones. Likewise, Millennials account for 69% of online purchases with smartphones and tablets fast becoming the primary shopping tool for this consumer (LS:N Global, 2014). Gen Z in particular, are concerned with image and are likely to bandwagon with friends and
celebrities whilst claiming to champion individualism, they are very receptive to word of mouth advocation of brands. Therefore, fashion is an ideal way for these consumers to buy into charity but the aesthetic needs to be versatile enough to be easily incorporated into their style. A genuine celebrity ambassador is the best way to persuade the consumer into buying into a charitable product. Although the ‘charm bracelet’ is typically marketed towards females, the nature of the Dian Band’s construction – from its wide wristband to slide-on, technologyinfluenced chips – includes enough masculine features that grant it to be a unisex accessory. With debate surrounding the abolishment of gender-segregation across a variety of sectors from public toilets, children’s toys to adult clothing (Huffington Post, 2015: online), it is becoming increasingly unpopular to tailor designs to a specific gender stereotype. Dian Band comes in an assortment of unisex colour ways, enabling inclusivity and accessibility towards the brand.
B
THE CONSUMER
en, 24, is a freelance music journalist based between London and Nottingham. Having recently graduated, Ben is very economical when purchasing fashion, choosing to buy pieces that are not overtly trendy and most likely second-hand from vintage stores. His wrists are adorned with various festival wristbands that he either attended for work or for leisure. The only piece of wristwear he has actually purchased for is a ÂŁ50 Casio watch. Therefore, when it comes to putting money towards a fashion accessory, whilst the sustainable incentive is all well and good, it must be cheap or a viable long-term investment (see Appendix 7 for full interview).
86
87
Fig.44: Ben consumer profile moodboard (Standing, 2015).
THE CONSUMER
Fig.45: Paulina consumer profile moodboard (Standing, 2015).
P
aulina, 21, is a student and part-time model studying in Portsmouth but originally from a town near Torun in Poland. Whilst she doesn’t have plenty of disposable income, she likes to invest her money into her style and beauty. She has polarising tastes in jewellery: she has a scope of dainty silver jewellery that she will wear to university but also has an assortment of colourful, oversized acrylic jewellery that she will adorn herself in at the weekends. One item Paulina consistently wears is her Pandora charm bracelet that is half-filled with “stars and heart� themed charms. She treats herself to a new charm approximately every three months as her bracelet is adaptable into both her weekday and weekend styles (see Appendix 7 for full interview). 89
Chapter Twelve
Integrated Marketing Strategy
D
ian Band will undergo a long-term brand building campaign by launching its product into the market through carefully selected multi-brand boutiques in the UK and US, such as London’s Celestine Eleven and Bird in New York, where Dian Band will sit fittingly alongside their current stock of conceptual, earthen jewellery. By placing the product in a limited number of influential retailers alongside a range of other eclectic and niche brands, Dian can associate itself amongst them as a brand of a similar aspirational calibre.
As the seeds of awareness are gradually sown and intrigued is garnered around the brand, the number of boutique stockists will increase with the inclusion of youthful casualwear multi-brand chain Urban Outfitters, to allow greater accessibility towards the brand. By keeping bricks and mortar stockists initially limited however, more traffic will be directed towards the Dian website and online store where the consumer can read into the brand story and connect with the cause.
By keeping bricks and mortar stockists initially limited, more traffic will be directed towards the Dian website where the consumer can read into the brand story and connect with the cause
INTEGRATED MARKETING STRATEGY
A
s a start-up business, budget is limited so any investment towards promotion will focus primarily around a viral film highlighting the issue of e-waste in Guiyu, with a heavy reliance on the video’s circulation and consumer advocacy on social media. The use of above-the-line rich media such as film will be the most appropriate method in utilising emotion to convey the severity Fig.29: Dian Band P.O.S. retail stand mock-up (Standing, 2015).
From in-store...
Fig.46: Dian Band Celestine Eleven retail mock-up (Standing, 2015).
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
...to online 93
Fig.47: Dian Band website mock-up for computer, tablet and smartphone (Standing, 2015).
1 2
INTEGRATED MARKETING STRATEGY
web
94
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
store
3 4 Fig.48: Dian Band online store process mock-up (Standing, 2015).
95
INTEGRATED MARKETING STRATEGY
mintel 3.48
Average number of hours consumers spend watching/listening to/reading media each day (March 2014)
3.09
1.72
TV/Film/ DVD/Blu-Ray
Music
1.62
Books/E-books Mags/Papers Fig.49: Media Consumption Infographic (Standing, 2015).
of the Guiyu crisis. It is also the most consumed form of media: Mintel’s report into media consumption habits revealed that internet users aged 16+ spend on average 3.48 hours each day watching video content. Therefore making it the most popular form of media above music, books and magazines (2014: online database). The circulation of Dian’s film will be mobilised by selective celebrity seeding; the influence of opinion formers will be instrumental in Dian Band’s awareness.
Seeding will be directed mainly towards celebrities with Chinese heritage who have a prolific presence amongst the youthful Gen Z/Millennial demographic both at home and overseas, as they can legimately advocate the severities of Guiyu’s e-waste crisis as a matter close to home. Using influential figures listed in the Business of Fashion’s BoF 500 list, a small selection of potential ambassadors include (right page, clockwise from top left): 96
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
Fig.51: Gogoboi Ye Si (Business of Fashion, 2015).
Fig.52: Fei Fei Sun (MacDonald, 2013).
Fig.50: Susanna Lau (Piper, 2014).
- Susanna Lau: the renowned British blogger and FROWer of Hong Kong heritage. Lau is renowned for her thoughtful fashion commentary on her renowned blog Style Bubble and her eclectic sartorial taste. She is one of the most prominent attendants at global fashion events and has a passion for scouting unknown designers and brands. - China’s most influential blogger Gogoboi Ye Si has millions of followers on his Weibo account (the Chinese equivalent to Facebook) and has worked with luxury labels such as Chanel and Dior alongside fast fashion retailers H&M and Uniqlo. - Popular runway model Fei Fei Sun is often lauded as the next Liu Wen and a common face in high-profile campaigns for Louis Vuitton, Prada and Calvin Klein. - Fan Bingbing is the Chinese actor and singer already dubbed as “one of the world’s most successful actresses” by The Financial Times despite her youth. Her influence is strong in both pop culture and the fashion crowd (Business of Fashion, 2014: online). 97
Fig.53: Fan Bingbing (Vespa/Getty, 2013)
5c INTEGRATED MARKETING STRATEGY
social media Seeding to a mixture of youthful pop culture and fashion icons alongside bloggers and fashion commentators enable broad endorsement of the Dian Band brand and presents an widespread voice to advocate the brand’s story. This method of social influence is proven to be highly receptive amongst Dian’s target demographic of youthful Gen Z and Millennials where the pressures to conform are strong. But as a charitable product, the Dian Band still need to ensure their communication is broad and inclusive towards anybody passionate about social change
98
’s
and sustainability, thus leveraging more profit towards Guiyu’s cause. The consumer journey diagram (fig.54, p.101) demonstrates how celebrity advocacy will ultimately transpire to consumer purchase and subsequent endorsement. Of course, this method of raising awareness will incite backlash from critics who argue that it contradicts the ethics of a charitable product. However, celebrity seeding is a necessary stage of promoting brand awareness as for a start-up brand, it is one of the cheapest and most effective methods in doing so.
Content Context Community Continuity Cohesion THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
Awareness video highlighting where your discarded electronics end up and how it affectst the villagers in Guiyu, and how you can prevent it through Dian Band
Puts consumer into perspective of direct cause into e-waste crisis. Video is a call of action to make a change
Seeding to influential online content creators such as Lau and Gogoboi will inspire other creators and conversationalists to spread the word
More product lines will be introduced at least four times a year. Celebrity seeding will translate to views of awareness video
Vimeo film will be linked on Facebook and Twitter. Celebrity seeding on Instagram will also link to Facebook 99
strength weaknes opportu Only fashion/accessory brand to tackle e-waste // Niche marbled metal aesthetic // Customisable & Versatile
Niche design - potential ‘Marmite effect’ // High price point
Limitless product expansion // Artist/Celebrity collaboration // Growth as lifestyle brand
threats Potential rise of other competitor philanthropic accessory brands
hs sses unities Chapter Thirteen
s
t
Future Growth
he SWOT diagram on the left highlights in particular the limitless potential for product expansion for Dian Band. In order to keep up with fast fashion and masstige competitors such as Pandora (who release up to seven collections a year), Dian will introduce a new collection of wristband and chip designs at least four times a year, introducing more Mandarin characters and illustrative designs (Professional Jeweller, 2014: online). As mentioned previously, the segregation of precious metals from computer CPUs such as gold can materialise into a Dian Premium range that will be sold alongside its signature marbled collection. This also has the potential to go beyond wristbands and chips but also to other styles of jewellery such as neckwear,
FUTURE GROWTH
rings and earrings that embody the brand’s idiosyncratic marbled and circuitry designs. In suit of the G-Star Raw for the Oceans collaboration with Pharrell Williams and TOMS Shoes’ project with luxury celebrity label The Row, Dian too can seize the opportunity of a celebrity or artist collaboration to design future chips and reinvigorate the current Dian aesthetic. As Dian gains popularity, the collaboration can be used as an international platform to promote the names of emerging Chinese artists.
Further down the line, a homeware range is also a possibility as an efficient utilisation of the stainless steel found within e-waste components and will transition Dian out of being just a fashion brand but a lifestyle brand. All profits will feed back into the manufacture of the Dian Band and its employees. The aim is to generate enough profit over time to offer a e-waste collection service that will make it easier for consumers to recycle their old electronic devices and thus provide Dian with more waste material to create more jewellery with.
Further down the line, a homeware range is also a possibility 102
BOND
THE INEVITABLE RISE OF EASTERNISATION
CONSIDER
EVALUATE
ADVOCATE
ENJOY
BUY Fig.54: Consumer Journey Diagram (Standing, 2015). 103
End of Section Two
Conclusion
i
China’s new enterprising spirit - and the West’s continual proactivity needs to be harnessed responsibly and sustainably
n response to my initial question: can the growing affluence of the East, overthrow the reigning influence of the West? The answer is no. Because firstly, the West will remain a global superpower for some time - although the gap between the US and China is expected to narrow. Secondly, China owes a lot of its economic accomplishment to the West. In this increasingly globalised world, it has been established that all nations have exchanged skills, ideas and resources to aid their own development. The most important point however, as this report has outlined earlier, is that hegemony does not work. If it no longer works in US favour, it cannot work in the favour of any nation. Globalisation means that interdependency between nations becomes greater and the need to co-operate - over dominate - and exchange – rather than exploit - is fundamental. And when one nation wishes to innovate, industrialise and prosper, it must
105
be conscientious of its processes and ensure they are not exploiting or severely threatening those at the other end of the hemisphere - which has been the ugly underbelly of globalisation until the consequences started to materialise in recent years. The damage caused by the Guiyu e-waste crisis will take a long time to reverse, if at all. Dian Band is only one initiative making a small step towards its improvement, if more brands such as Dian, or TOMS, or G-Star Raw for the Oceans emerged to directly counteract environmental and societal damage, the destruction caused by globalization can be reversed at a much quicker rate. China’s new enterprising spirit - and the West’s continual proactivity - needs to be harnessed responsibly, and ultimately, sustainably. Therefore, the answer is not whether the East will overthrow the West. It is a matter of the East working with the West.