Schiphol Magazine October 2011 by Schiphol Magazine

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Your window seat to the world

ADVENTURES IN JORDAN

EATING ARUBA ISLAND FOOD EXPLORED

DISCOVER MÁLAGA

R T

cia

ffi

E R

T S M A

lM ag

‘THINK OF THE ART, NOT THE BULL’

L O N G C H A M P. C O M A VA I L A B L E I N T E R M I N A L 1 , 2 A N D 3 A T S C H I P H O L A I R P O R T

Published monthly by Publishers

Editor in Chief

WOUTER WIJTENBURG LINDA KORVER CEES VAN DER STEENSTRATEN

JOHANNA THORNTON proof@schipholmagazine.com

Art Director

LINDA KORVER linda.korver@schipholmagazine.com

Editorial Staff

Sales

MATHILDE HOEKSTRA mathilde.hoekstra@schipholmagazine.com

Proofreader

Designer

Sales Director

WERELDWIJT PUBLISHING BV www.wereldwijt.com

Video Contributors

Styling Special Thanks to

STEFAN MOLLEMAN stefan.molleman@schipholmagazine.com +31 (0)6 23125477 KRIS SOEHAWAN kris.soehawan@schipholmagazine.com

Advertising Press Enquiries

NICKY FALKENBERG nicky.falkenberg@schipholmagazine.com SARAH MOORE sarah.moore@schipholmagazine.com

advertising@schipholmagazine.com press@schipholmagazine.com

Finance Manager

GERARD KOELMANS gerard.koelmans@schipholmagazine.com

Amsterdam Airport Coordination

JANNEKE VOORN, PRESS DEPARTMENT FLEUR SCHEEPMAKER (A.I) BRITTA SLUIS, SEE BUY FLY GARY MEY, SCHIPHOL MEDIA

TIM HILHORST tim.hilhorst@schipholmagazine.com

Photography

WOUTER WIJTENBURG wouter.wijtenburg@schipholmagazine.com +31 (0)6 21277730

Airport Distribution

GSA FACILITAIRE DIENSTEN

LOUISE HONEE, JOE FINCH MEIJER, RENE MESMAN, SARAH MOORE MICHAEL WHITENER DIRK JAN ARENSMAN, ELYSIA BRENNER, THOMAS VEN DER HEUVEL, NIELS ‘T HOOFT, MIKE PEEK, NIELS PEUCHEN, CATHERINE SMYTH, ARUN SOOD, MARIEKE VAN DER VELDEN, DAVID VERMEULEN, PAOLA WESTBEEK

SCHIPHOL MAGAZINE BV Triport 1 Building 1st floor Suite 1220 Evert van de Beekstraat 27 1180 CL Schiphol t. +31 (0)20 4053145

HANNA VAN DEN BOS ALEX VAN WARMERDAM, UNLIMITED PR

Schiphol Magazine is printed by Grafius BV

© Schiphol Magazine BV 2011 - Schiphol Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Schiphol Magazine or its publishers. Schiphol Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content.

MEET THE CREW (SOME OF THEM)

Reporter Marieke Verhoeven (30) fights off mosquitoes and leeches in Jordan

No one can give you better advice on what TV series to get hooked on than editor Tim Hilhorst (22)

Jack of all trades Sarah Moore (26) visits Malaga

When not writing a story reporter Arun Sood (25) pulls some chords

Photographer Louise Honee (37) captures the culinary side of Aruba

Commercial director Wouter Wijtenburg (27) is three handshakes away from Obama

Want to write a travel report? Editor in chief Mathilde Hoekstra (33) is your new BFF

Get to know our sales executive Stefan Molleman (29) on LinkedIn

Art director Linda Korver (28) did not get much sleep finishing this second edition...

When not in his studio photographer Rene Mesman (41) travels the world

What’s hot, what’s not? Ask stylist Hanna van den Bos (33)

All-round journalist Mike Peek (29) joins the fire brigade for one day

Beware of photographer Joe Meijer (24): before you know it, you’ll be in this mag too

When designer Nicky Falkenberg (24) is not working, he makes the world prettier with his graffiti

Congratulations, you’ve spotted an error! Our proof Johanna Thornton (26) was testing you!

CONTENTS

TRAVEL REPORTS

Málaga

15x City Guides

Oktoberfest

Aruba

Jordan

Beyond tapas and bull �ighting Destination Anywhere Sullivan’s List

43 54

In search of culinary delights A dusty adventure

‘SOMETIMES LIFE ON EARTH REALLY DOES FEEL LIKE A BOARD GAME.’

REVIEWS

5 mobile apps

Tunes of the month

What’s on the box?

Must-reads

Games

For your convenience Food for your iPod Here’s how to survive autumn Recommended books Toys for boys

30 SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.COM

SHOPPING

Checklist!

Sure you didn’t forget anything?

INTERVIEWS

On the move!

The suitcase

A traveller’s journey A man’s indispensables

TRIVIA

The buzz

Enter the cockpit

Numbers

Checkin’ in

Breaking news, scoops and nice-to-knows Oooh, what does this button do?

Go green

12 Dutch highlights

FASHION

What to wear

Watch this

Drop Shot

London style

Industrial clocks We’re falling for these shoes

SCHIPHOL

Behind the scenes

Holland Boulevard

Mapping it

What’s the �ire department up to? The Netherlands in a nutshell 74.LONDON

SCHIPHOL

43.MUNICH

How to get around

30.MÁLAGA 84.JORDAN

LITERATURE

Brandwashed

Sneak Peek

Marketing tricks revealed Gods without men

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54.ARUBA

THE BUZZ By: Paola Westbeek

A COMIC CURE FOR SLEEPLESS NIGHTS

PHOTO: FLOTO+WARNER

NEW NYC GEM After much anticipation the Nolitan Hotel finally opened its doors in August. Located on the corner of Kenmare and Elizabeth streets in one of downtown Manhattan’s most charming neighbourhoods (North of Little Italy, hence the name), the hotel promises guests outstanding personal service, friendliness and sophistication. The area’s first luxury boutique hotel boasts 55 beautiful rooms where modern elegance is combined with exceptional comfort. You’ll find floor to ceiling windows or private balconies providing panoramic views of the city. You might want to borrow one of their bikes or skateboards and check out some of the local galleries and trendy boutiques. Hungry? Head to Ellabess, the hotel’s onsite restaurant, for a seasonal, market-fresh meal. And did we mention you can check out at 2PM? nolitanhotel.com

Exhausted parents who are all too familiar with the struggle of getting a child to bed will get a kick out of the hilariously cathartic book, Go the F**k to Sleep. What may seem like an innocent bedtime story at first glance, is actually a humorously honest tale for mums and dads (who don’t mind the profanity), and not their sleep-loathing children. Written by Adam Mansbach and dedicated to his daughter Vivien ‘without whom none of this would be possible’, the book puts to words what many of us have thought the moment we tiptoe out of the room and our child starts screaming. Read it when you’re at your wits’ end and dare to laugh away your frustrations. source: nrcnext.nl

Fun-do We’ve all heard of cheese fondue. Perhaps even chocolate fondue. But have you heard of ice fondue? Seven restaurants in the Netherlands and three restaurants in Belgium are currently offering their customers a quirky new way to end their meal. Diners can dip a variety of treats such as pieces of cake, fruit and even marshmallows into a coating of their choice before popping them into liquid nitrogen. The result? Mini frozen delights that leave other desserts out in the cold!

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If you’ve ever found yourself away from home, desperately craving a good espresso and having to resort to using ancient coffee machines or paying for bad coffee, with the mypressi TWIST, rescue is, literally, at hand. The elegantly designed, hand-held device helps you make espresso the way espresso should be made - dark, rich, full of flavour and crowned with the perfect crema. It’s like travelling with your own personal barista. Use it at the office (if you don’t mind the envious stares), or give it as a gift to a hard-working student who could use some decent caffeine. mypressi.com

icefondue.com

GIVE YOUR GADGETS A LITTLE LOVE

NO MORE BAD COFFEE

Smudges, scratches or splotches on your iPad or iPhone? Enter the Toddy Smart Cloth! This soft, double-sided microfiber cloth with antibacterial coating effortlessly wipes away oils and dirt, keeping the screen and lenses of your gadgets as good as new. While one side gets rid of the grime, the other side takes care of the buffing and polishing. These washable, environmentally friendly

cloths are available in 42 stylish patterns, and if you’re looking for a cool promotional item, there’s even the option to ‘brand your toddy’ with your company’s logo. You’ll find yourself giving everything a good swipe with the Toddy Cloth - from your smart phone to your glasses. Think of it as both a teddy bear and a spa treatment for all your touch-screen gadgets! toddygear.com

THE BUZZ

FUTURE CAR Curious about what the future of Ferrari might have in store for you? According to the privately designed concept by Salvatore Simonetti, Massimiliano Petrachi and Vincenzo Morlino (graduates of Istituto d’Arte Applicata e Design Torino) along with the help of Luca Zunino (graduate of Politecnico di Milano) in 2025 we can expect a compact, lightweight hypercar designed for extreme performance. The study for the EGO (Emotional Generation One) has elements such as a fighter plane cockpit, wraparound windscreen, LED taillights, carbon fibre details and according to the brains behind the car, plenty of ‘strong emotional content’. source: topgear.com

PIZZA ON THE MOON source: huffingtonpost.com

Dream a little dream? For Scott Oelkers, president and CEO of Domino’s Pizza in Japan, that dream was huge. Or should we say astronomical? His dream was to expand the popular pizza chain to the moon. A project that came with a price tag of $21.7 billion (of which $7.3 billion would have gone to shipping the required materials

up to the moon). Unfortunately, Mr Oelkers realised this was more than just pocket change and decided to postpone the project saying he has ‘not given up on this dream’. In the meantime, the Japanese can get their pizza delivered in a special moon box indicating the location where the store would’ve opened.

TO DO, TO SEE, TO EXPERIENCE CHEER: Come and cheer on the runners of the world’s most famous annual marathon on 6 November. The ING New York City Marathon course (42.195 km/26.219 mi) covers all five of the NYC boroughs.

FILM: The 55th BFI London Film Festival, showcasing international films, videos and documentaries is one of London’s most talked about annual events. From 12-27 October. Check out their website bfi. org.uk for venues around the capital.

ART: Go see the collection of Flemish masterpieces by Rubens, Van Dyck & Jordaens with a selection of works by some of their respected contemporaries. Until 16 March 2012 at the Amsterdam Hermitage.

Leave your iPad at home Don’t let the digital revolution stop you from putting pen to paper and treating yourself to an elegant Hermès Ulysse notebook. The pebblegrained leather covers come in three sizes and various colours. Fill them with either lined or unlined paper (also from Hermès) and leave your iPad at home the next time you have a business meeting. Starting at €117. hermes.com

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Cognac for the riches On Christmas Eve 1818 the Russian Empress Maria Feodorovna commissioned the Hennessy Cognac house to create an ‘excellent, very old, gold-coloured eau-de-vie of the very finest quality’. It was a present for her son, Tsar Alexander Ι. Almost two centuries later, master blender Yann Fillioux has brought the essence of this exquisite blend back to life with Paradis Impérial. The result is pure liquid gold with notes of orange blossom and jasmine bottled in a unique decanter designed by Stephanie Balini. A bottle (should you be lucky enough to get your hands on one) will cost you about €1170. hennessy.com

THE BUZZ

MOBILE

A RUSTIC TASTE OF SOUTHWEST FRANCE The next time you’re in Bordeaux, consider making a reservation at La Tupina (the name means ‘cauldron’ in Basque) for an authentic taste of Southwest France’s culinary grandeur. You’ll understand the name once you walk into the restaurant and see its gastronomical symbol hanging proudly over the stunning fireplace. This is where it all happens: the soup simmers gently, robust farm house chickens are slowly spit-roasted, impressive slabs of meat are rustically grilled and the chips (probably the best you’ll ever have) are fried to a golden crisp in sizzling duck fat. La Tupina prides itself in serving cuisine du terroir at its best. Start your meal off with parsleyed pan-fried cepes or opt for the regional specialty and choose the foie gras terrine. Follow with the seven-hour roast lamb, the succulent pork loin or the king of the region, the Landes duck. If you have room for dessert, their prune and armagnac ice cream is a refreshingly sweet epicurean delight. La Tupina’s impressive wine list ranges from the affordable to the more extravagant, and if you happen to classify yourself as a true connoisseur, you’ll be impressed by the wide variety of digestifs to round off your meal with. latupina.com

NOT FOR WUSSES

Cross a Segway with a tank, throw in a badass skateboard and you’ve got the DTV Shredder. Originally designed as a military vehicle for use in war zones, this fierce motorised device can make its way across just about any kind of territory at speeds of up to 48kmph and tear up slopes of up to 40 degrees. It may become the next big thing for adrenaline junkies and extreme sports fanatics, but we think it’s a gnarly way to get to work when the first snowstorm hits. bpg-werks.com

FREQUENT FLYER APPS In the air or on the tarmac, these apps are essential for anyone regularly on the go. By: Tim Hilhorst

GateGuru (€1.50) GateGuru is an amenities app that covers over 120 airports across North America, Europe and Asia. It provides structured lists of airport food, shops and services as well as reviews, tips and photos posted by other travellers.

Howcast (free) Educate yourself on everything and anything you need to know about a place by watching short videos. From the proper way to eat sushi in Japan to kissing customs in the Netherlands the app features how-to videos on almost everything.

1000 Experiences (€3.50)

Spark your wanderlust by browsing through Lonely Planet’s 1000 ultimate experiences. The photoheavy app offers exclusive insights by experienced travellers.

TripAdvisor (free) TripAdvisor is the most extensive database of destination information and the easiest way to plan a trip. Use the app to browse reviews, opinions, hotels, maps, photos and flights in numerous countries.

MapsWithMe (free)

WHAT GLOBAL DEBT?

This year the online travel agency Ebookers has sold more combined bookings (for flight, hotel and rental cars) than ever: there has been a notable increase of 48 per cent in the Netherlands and 32 per cent in Belgium. Most popular destinations are New York, Barcelona London, Paris and Las Vegas where people stay in a three or four star hotel.

Save a heap in roaming charges with MapsWithMe. The best offline map application based on OpenStreetMap that features travel guide articles from Wikitravel.

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REVIEWED

TUNES OF THE MONTH BY: TIM HILHORST

Beats, breaks, bumps and bass drops… sometimes it gets confusing. Plug in and chill out; we’ll sift through the latest releases and let you know whether to spin… or bin.

I’M WITH YOU RED HOT CHILI PEPPERS From the very start of the RHCP’s tenth album I’m With You and the initial sounds of Flea’s funky base we instantly know that, after five years away, the Chilis are back. The new tracks are energetic and fun, but at times tread a fine line of repetition and redundancy. The gentle-to-rough acoustics in Brendan’s Death Song complemented by Kiedis’ controlled voice make for a moving reflection on mortality and death. The album features lyrics that border on juvenile and arbitrary, but as long as the cocksock wearing brothers’ Pretty Little Ditty[s] about sex and Cali can still make us smile then we’re not complaining. Warner Bros Records 2011

EVERY KINGDOM

JUNK OF THE HEART THE KOOKS After the spine shivering brilliance of Inside In/Inside Out and the insanely addictive qualities of Konk, two years was a long and antsy wait for fans of The Kooks. Third album Junk of the Heart is not particularly bad, but it’s resigned to painful pop-rock mediocrity. Lyrics about childish love affairs, lust, fame and fictional women are tired and the overly employed synths and plucky chords only cause Luke Pritchard’s voice to become even more wearing. Is It Me offers a faint glimmer of light in an otherwise bleak array of bland uniformity – you’ve heard it all before, or won’t want to. EMI 2011

BEN HOWARD First time singer-songwriter Ben Howard isn’t afraid to be quiet, which is precisely the quality that makes his folky messages so loud. His debut album Every Kingdom is more than just a confluence of poetry and sound; it’s intricate and novel. His songs are far removed from the campfire lullabies and stale granola sounds seemingly inherent to his oversaturated genre. The 22-year-old’s songs of love and fear and hopes of second chances are wise beyond his years. And his ethereal voice is instinctively addictive. Particular standouts include The Wolves and The Fear whose impossibly elaborate rifts draw you in and manifest like a welcome virus. Ben is very possibly the next big thing. Island Records Group

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The Red Hot Chili Peppers have not had the easiest ride, losing members to drug addiction, death and interpersonal drama. There have been 14 men lucky enough to call themselves Peppers at one point in time and only Michael ‘Flea’ Balzary and lead singer Anthony Kiedis are remaining members of the founding Red Hots. The quartet was formerly known as Tony Flow and the Miraculously Majestic Masters of Mayhem, but the name was too long and they settled on RHCP. The band has won seven Grammy awards and sold over 65 million albums making them one of the most popular alternative rock bands of all time.

This month’s

TOP SPOTIFY TUNES IN SPAIN 1

RAIN OVER ME Pitbull feat. Marc Anthony

BAILANDO POR AHI Juan Magan

WHERE THEM GIRLS AT David Guetta (feat. Nicki Minaj & Flo Rida)

ROLLING IN THE DEEP Adele

AMARTE BIEN Carlos Baute feat. Juan Maga Remix

REVIEWED

WHAT’S ON THE BOX?

Quotes

BY: TIM HILHORST

Cinephile at heart? No time to sort through the pulp, yet still want to keep up? From mid-air to mid-traffic and from overhead projector to iPad, we’ll help you fill those precious moments with the best TV series.

‘In my heart, I’m a vegan. In my mouth, I lack discipline’

‘People fake a lot of human interactions, but I feel like I fake them all’

‘A person who stands for nothing spends their whole life sitting’

DEXTER SEASON 5 AVAILABLE: NOW

BORED TO DEATH SEASON 2 AVAILABLE: 4 OCTOBER, 2011 After losing his girlfriend and giving in to the writer’s block pestering him since his first semi-successful novel, Jonathan Ames (Jason Schwartzman), the protagonist in Bored to Death, decides to place an ad on Craigslist offering his services as a private detective. Jonathan’s uncompromising politeness, formality and idyllic quest for a misplaced sense of justice often cause more hindrance than help. He is self-admittedly addicted to white wine and weed, but that doesn’t stop him from offering his ‘unlicensed’ detective services with the best of intentions. George (Ted Danson), his childishly curious publisher, and Ray (Zach Galifianakis), his vulnerably defeatist best friend, accompany him on his mission to escape from the tedium and boredom inherent to growing up and facing reality. The New York-based observational comedy is a clever, honest and effortlessly stylish portrayal of boy’s desire to remain just that.

Forensic expert by day and vigilante serial killer (of killers) by night, Dexter Morgan epitomises the phrase ‘sometimes good guys have to do bad things’. Attempting to redefine audience notions of justice and morality Dexter explores moral grey areas and ethically ubiquitous life philosophies. Struggling with ‘the dark passenger’ inside him while desperately clinging to a semblance of normalcy - juggling his family, friends and forensics - has taken its toll. From lexically genius writing, to multilayered character development and an ever increasingly capable cast Dexter defines the boundaries of modern quality television. Interesting Fact: The name of the show Dexter is derived from the Latin phrase meaning ‘right hand’. The allusion is made to reference the Latin phrase ‘left hand’, or ‘sinister’ revealing the other, darker side of Dexter’s being.

UNITED STATES OF TARA SEASON 3 AVAILABLE: NOW United States of Tara is a narrative drama starring Toni Colette in the role of Tara, a do-gooder suburban housewife coping with her multiple personality disorder DID. Unsuccessfully attempting to hold her family together, Tara is occasionally taken over by flirty teenager T, fifties housewife Alice and Vietnam War veteran Buck. The addition of three new ‘alters’ in the latest two seasons made her life, which constantly seems to be bursting at the sloppily stitched seams, increasingly difficult. The shows dramatic nature is juxtaposed with the painfully ordinary backdrop of Overland Park and interspersed moments of comedic brilliance are used to detract from the brutality of the family’s everyday life. Clever dialogue, stylistic brilliance and a stellar cast deliver a worthwhile commentary on what it’s like when a family member truly lets their freak flag fly.

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CHECKLIST Forgotten something essential? We’ve prepared a checklist so you’re fully equipped for your trip. All these products are available at Schiphol Airport, check the map reference for exact locations (see map at pg. 97)

Nina Ricci - Love in Paris

Paco Rabanne - Pour Homme

Women’s Eau de Parfum spray 50ml.

Men’s aftershave 200ml.

€63.80 Special offer: 2 for €49

€67.60 Special offer: 2 for €49

More 2 for €49 available at Perfumes & Cosmetics | MAP 1

Hollands Diep

Sony HDR-PJ10

MiTone Noise Cancelling headphones

The culture glossy of the Netherlands.

Full HD camcorder with built-in projector. Up to 6.5hr Full HD on 16GB memory.

High quality headphones with 90 per cent noise cancelling. Flat folding for easy storage.

€7.95 Special offer: €5.95 Available at News & Books | MAP 13

€649 Special offer: €499 Available at Electronics | MAP 3

€149 Special offer: €99 Available at Electronics | MAP 3

Courvoisier VSOP

Jameson

Rosenberg Bonbon Amsterdam Palace

Cognac one litre.

Irish whisky one litre.

Content 400g.

€41.45 Special offer: €29.95 Available at Liquor & Tobacco | MAP 2

€25.50 Special offer: €15.95 Available at Liquor & Tobacco | MAP 2

€15.45 Special offer: €12.95 Available at Chocolates | MAP 10

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SHOPPING

Leica V-Lux30 16x optical zoom. Leica DC Vario-Elmar aspherical lens. Full HD Movie and GPS. €599 Special offer: €549 Available at Electronics | MAP 3

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Gant Men’s jacket

Samsonite Cabin trolley

UGG®Australia women’s collection

The world’s most famous windcheater. In navy and red. Size M-XXXL.

55cm in black.

The latest original sheepskin shoe collection.

€279 Special offer: €179 Available at Fashion & Travel | MAP 4

€129 Special offer: €79 Available at Fashion & Travel | MAP 4

Prices starting from: €146 Available at Fashion & Travel | MAP 4

50 Dutch tulip bulbs

Diamond

Diamond & Sapphire ring

In a giftbox with health certificate. Available in different cultivars.

Brilliant cut Diamond Top Wesselton SI, approx. 0.52 carats.

18 carat white or yellow/white gold ring set with diamonds and blue sapphires.

€21.99 Special offer: €18.95 Available at House of Tulips/Flowers & Bulbs | MAP 12

€2815 Special offer: €1795 Available at Diamonds

€662 Special offer: €299 Available at Watches & Jewellery & Diamonds | MAP 8

WWF bunny

Old Amsterdam cheese

Soft clog mules

Available in different designs. By buying a WWF toy item a contribution is made to WWF.

Specially aged old Gouda cheese, contents approx. 900g.

Typical Dutch soft clog mules. Available in various designs, colours and sizes.

€19.95 Special offer: €14.95 Available at Toys | MAP 5

€21.75 Special offer: €19.50 Available at Delicatessen | MAP 9

Prices starting from: €12.95 Available at Holland Gifts & Souvenirs | MAP 7

SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.COM

SHOPPING

Guess ladies’ watch With steel bracelet and matching ‘Guess Jewellery’ bracelet. €248 Special offer: €169 Available at Watches & Jewellery | MAP 8

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ON THE

MOVE

More than 100,000 passengers pass through Amsterdam Airport Schiphol every day. These travellers took the time to tell Schiphol Magazine about their journeys. By: Sarah Moore Photos: Joe Finch Meijer 24

SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.COM

INTERVIEW

ADRIANO AND SARAH (22 & 21) From: Turin, Italy Professions: Students

Leaving Amsterdam to go back home to Italy

‘We came here for a smoke and to see the architecture. We love Amsterdam. It’s like a different universe from Italy. Here you can do what you want and people are much more open minded. We’re not ready to go back and coming here has inspired us to plan our next trips to Japan and the USA. We’re ready to see really big places!’

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‘I’m on my way to Ghana after not seeing my family for a year. I just had surgery on my arm due to a work accident. I strained myself on the forklift. So now I have three weeks off and I’m ﬂying home just to have my family take care of me.’

RICHARD (27)

From: Ghana (living in Brussels) Profession: Forklift driver In transit from Brussels, Belgium to Ghana 26

SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.COM

INTERVIEW

INGE WENKER (30) From: Flevoland, Netherlands Profession: Sales agent

Coming home from a holiday in Sicily

‘We just got back from a two week holiday in Sicily with our baby girl. It was the first holiday for us as a family and it was real learning experience. We had to stop a lot to let her take a nap and always felt bad if she cried in public. The Sicilians were very forward with her, people were always grabbing her out of the pram and shouting ‘bella!’.’

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REVIEWED

MUST READS BY: DIRK-JAN ARENSMAN

RECOMMENDED

WATERLINE ROSS RAISIN Just like the protagonist from Raisin’s cracking debut, God’s Own Country (2008), Mick Little is a man in a downward spiral. When the former shipbuilder from Glasgow loses his wife to cancer, he acts on impulse: first he drowns his sorrow in gallons of beer, and then he runs away. He cuts all ties. Tries to start a new life. But his journey, from sweaty hotel-kitchens and cramped B&Bs to the mean streets of a homeless life in London, soon proves a road to nowhere. Depressing? Certainly. But Waterline is also an intensely moving portrait of lives lived in the margins of society. Raw, poetic, darkly humorous and shamefully real. Published by: Viking

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PIGEON ENGLISH STEPHEN KELMAN The bookies may be convinced that Julian Barnes has the 2011 Booker Prize in the bag, but don’t be surprised if this debut novel is the dark horse that shoots past the competition. Pigeon English describes a bleak and dangerous world: A London housing estate where the local gang rules and drugs and knife-crime are ever present. A place where a boy, newly arrived from Africa with his mother and his infuriating older sister, has to grow up fast. (And get a girlfriend and the fastest sneakers, of course.) Yet the pitch-perfect voice of 11-year-old Harrison Opuku, spiced with urban slang and Ghanaian argot (‘Asweh!’), infuses it with energy, optimism and hope. Harrison’s joyous lust for life is infectious, his naive antics as an amateur-sleuth trying to solve a murder case provoke both laughter and dread. Brace yourself for the heartbreaking finale, because this is a kid (and a book) you’ll fall in love with. Published by: Bloomsbury

3TWEET A monthly selection of (fairly) recent posts by authors on Twitter. This month: @DougCoupland Tweets 930+ Followers: 387,999

WHEN THE KILLING’S DONE

Ever heard of the term ‘Generation X’? It derives from the mind of Douglas Coupland (49), a Canadian novelist and artist who wrote international best sellers like Generation X: Tales for an Accelerated Culture and Microserfs & Jpod.

T.C. BOYLE

3 AUG

The subtitle of this fastpaced black comedy might well be ‘Animal lovers go to war’. The battleground is Channel Island, off the coast of California. The opposing parties: Alma Boyd Takesue, an arrogant biologist of the National Park Service, and dreadlocked, tantrum-prone environmental activist Dave LaJoy. Theirs is a longstanding feud. But when Takesue campaigns to exterminate non-native rats and pigs which threaten the island’s population of groundnesting birds, the debate turns into something much more violent. Sure, Takesue and LaJoy are cartoonish extremes. But through them Boyle, who has proved time and time again that he’s a deft hand at social satire of the rollercoaster kind, manages to shed light on a very real ecological dilemma and keep you on the edge of your seat. Laughing and thinking. Published by: Bloomsbury

Sometimes life on earth really does feel like a board game. 29 JUL

They removed the big clock from my gym today, and suddenly the place felt like one of those abandoned Chernobyl classrooms. 11 JUN

Cottage Cheese: your slightly bloating plastic tub and lid are now making me rethink you.

INSIGNIFICANT THINGS... There’s probably not a fan of Catcher in The Rye or his even more brilliant Nine Stories who has never regretted that J.D. Salinger (1919-2010) became the kind of misanthropic recluse he did. Sometimes, however, you can hardly blame him. Like recently, when Reuters reported a Nevada-based company listing an ‘exceedingly rare’ item for auction on eBay: an almost illegible, handwritten note from the author... left for his maid. The full text: ‘Dear Mary, Please make sure all errands are done before you go on vacation, as I don’t want to be bothered with insignificant things. Thank you, J.D. Salinger’. Asking price for this little nugget: 50,000 USD.

REVIEWED

TOYS FOR BOYS

MEGA MALL STORY AND GIRLS!

BY: NIELS PEUCHEN

CUT THE ROPE EXPERIMENTS IPOD TOUCH, IPHONE, IPAD

GROOVE COASTER IPOD TOUCH, IPHONE, IPAD Rhythm game Groove Coaster is much simpler than the now-discontinued Guitar Hero and Rock Band series. It’s great for those who are bad at music games – and it’s great that you can now play one on a plane, without having to bring plastic instruments. In Groove Coaster, you tap little circles on-screen, in sync with Japanese dance music. The track list is short and doesn’t feature any familiar songs, but developer Taito sure chose the right material. Released: 2011 Price: Approx. €2.50

The original Cut the Rope was a huge success, so a sequel was the logical next step. Cut the Rope Experiments offers as much fun as its predecessor, but it lacks the feeling of playing a brand new game. Russian developer Zeptolab just cranked out a few more puzzles and sells them pretending they’ll provide an all-new experience. They don’t. Luckily, feeding pieces of candy to a cute green monster is still addictive.

IPOD TOUCH, IPHONE, IPAD Japanese developer Kairosoft produced the critically acclaimed Game Dev Story, and Mega Mall Story is just as good. The theme is less unique, though, as there are other management games in which you have to establish successful malls. This one stands out because of its simple, fast-paced gameplay and by involving the mall’s surrounding neighbourhood. Your mall may be top of the bill, but if you don’t invest in housing potential customers, your sales will fizzle out fast. Released: 2011 Price: Approx. €3

Released: 2008 Price: Approx. €1-€2

DEAD OR ALIVE: DIMENSIONS NINTENDO DS Dead or Alive: Dimensions is the first Dead or Alive game on a portable gaming system which offers more than just looking at scantily clad women. Dead or Alive: Paradise for the PSP was a bunch of simple minigames; Dimensions brings the fighting action back to this series. Yes, the game is by far the most expensive on this list, but it’s stuffed with content. Not only are there new modes and fighters, the best parts of Dead or Alive’s history are featured too. Released: 2011 Price: Approx. €45

THE 2D ADVENTURES OF ROTATING OCTOPUS CHARACTER PSP Rotating Octopus Character is not a very appealing name for a hero, but that doesn’t make this game less fun to play. Furthermore, Rotating Octopus Character is not the most difficult character to control. Only two buttons are required to guide the octopus through his 2D adventures. During each stage, your goals are to evade enemies, keep the octopus alive and collect smaller octopi. Sushi restaurants, the streets of London, deserts... this hero sure has a lot of challenges to face. Released: 2011 Price: Approx. €2

BESTSELLERS 1

CALL OF DUTY: BLACK OPS

XBOX 360, PLAYSTATION 3, WINDOWS In the seventh installment of Call of Duty shooting and being shot at are once again central themes. The game employs the Cold War as a background story.

NEW SUPER MARIO BROS. WII

WII New Super Mario Bros. Wii is your typical Mario platform game, but this time three friends can join you to compete and co-operate.

WII PARTY

WII A platform game combined with many short mini-games; after many Mario Party games Nintendo manages to finally revitalise the concept.

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CITY REPORT

Málaga:

REVIVING THE SPIRIT OF ANDALUSIA When people think of traditional Spain, images of flamenco dancers, Moorish architecture and bullfighters often spring to mind. The common thread is that they’re all Andalusian. So what better way to experience authentic Spanish culture than by exploring the ancient Andalusian city of Málaga? BY: ARUN SOOD PHOTOGRAPHY: SARAH MOORE

Literally all the villagers dress up for the yearly Feria de Málaga.

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‘OLE! OLE!’, scream a group of gruffly-voiced men amid the clips of castanets, burring guitars and rhythmic Spanish chatter. The noise is deafening inside El Pimpi, a cavernous tapas bar in the heart of Málaga’s historic quarter. It’s the opening day of Feria de Málaga – a nine-day festival commemorating the fall of the Moors in 1491. Hundreds of high-spirited locals have packed into this renowned eatery to indulge in the festivities aided by fine wine and food. Men dressed as Vaqueros (Spanish cowboys) wield Flamenco guitars and women strut around in beautiful frilly dresses, seductively fanning themselves and adding grace to an otherwise chaotic scene. Camareros (waiters) holding trays of olives, Jamón ibérico (cured ham) and fried fish miraculously weave their way through the bustle, with diners grabbing whatever they can in between glasses of wine.

The city transforms into one big fiesta

Not your typical ‘tourist town’ The scene inside El Pimpi is a good representation of the rest of Málaga during the summer festival. For nine days the city transforms into one big fiesta as shops close and the streets fill up with flamboyantly-dressed revellers, musicians, food stalls and horse carriages. There’s a genuine sense of Spanish - or more specifically Andalusian - pride in the air and the locals take great pleasure in putting on a show for visitors. While there’s a multitude of cafes, restaurants and hotels catered to tourists, Málaga is not your typical Spanish ‘tourist town’, having managed to retain a stronger sense of tradition than most other holiday resorts on the Costa Del Sol. Sun-seekers have flocked to Málaga airport for decades, but most bypass the city itself in favour of binge drinking at nearby package destinations. However, a recent cultural renaissance sparked by the opening of the Picasso Museum in 2003 has seen the city become a worthy destination in its own right. What was once a crumbling, unfrequented urban area is now a thriving city that personifies authentic Spanish culture and history.

Cultural crossroads As Andalusia’s second most populated province, Málaga contains many remnants of the Moorish kingdom once known as Al-Andalus. While Feria De Málaga may celebrate the conquering of the Moors by Catholic Kings, the region’s Islamic past is deeply woven into contemporary culture. From Flamenco music to architecture to language (ever wondered why ‘Ole’ sounds so close to ‘Allah’?), Arabic influences are ever-present in the city both physically and symbolically. 32

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Camareros weave their way through El Pimpi bar with plates of Jamón ibérico and other local delicacies.

TRAVEL REPORT

SMARAGDBAD

Anti-bullfighting sentiment continues to grow, but the sport still attracts a huge following for whom abolition of this age-old and timehonoured tradition is unthinkable.

A wander around Málaga’s historic city centre provides a glimpse into this cultural paradigm. The grandiosity of the Cathedral of Málaga stands perfectly against the towering backdrop of the Alcazaba - the Moorish fortification that provides a panoramic view over the whole city. Both are worth visiting, not only for their architectural prowess, but also to gain a rounded perspective on the cultural evolution of the city. Tour guide Juan Antonio Ruiz explains: ‘After Muslim rule, it was important to build a grand cathedral in the heart of the city. Yet the Alcazaba remains overlooking it to this day.’ Waving his arms in a gesture of pride, he continues: ‘So now we have Christian paintings, sculptures and architecture in the Cathedral and Moorish remains to be admired in the Alcazaba. It’s a wonderful dynamic.’

Although The Bullfight is controversial, it’s claimed to be culturally significant

The favourite son While both the cathedral and Moorish fort have fast become major tourist attractions,

tour guide Ruiz looks back to Málaga’s favourite son to explain the rejuvenated interest in his hometown. ‘Picasso changed the city,’ he says. ‘Places that used to be derelict and abandoned are now cultural hotspots. And it was the Picasso Museum that allowed for more money to be poured into tourism and attracted new types of visitors.’ Although Picasso only stayed in Málaga until an early age, it was his desire that his work be shown in his place of birth. Consequently, the artist’s family helped launch the city museum by donating paintings, sculptures and pottery that trace the arc of his career over much of the 20th century. The museum itself is set in a resplendent 16th century palace, complete with tranquil patios and floral gardens in between the gallery rooms. Pondering some of Picasso’s Cubist masterpieces, a fellow visitor commented on the recurring theme of suffering bulls in his work. Known to have attended many bullfights, it’s little wonder Picasso saw fit to document the pain and struggle of such a powerful animal. SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.COM

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TRAVEL REPORT Corrido de Toros, more commonly known as The Bullfight, is one of the more controversial elements of Feria De Málaga, yet it’s also, for many, the biggest highlight. Often deemed a cruel blood sport by its detractors, bullfighting remains a staple event at Andalusian festivals, with supporters claiming it to be culturally significant and a fully developed art form. ‘Think of the art, skill, elegance and history, not the bull,’ proclaimed a ticket vendor at the Málaga Bullring before the fight. ‘Bullfighting has been a part of our history in Málaga for centuries!’

Controversial customs With the elegance of a ballet dancer and the finesse of a fine painter at work, the first swordwielding torero (bullfighter) danced around and taunted a half-tonne Toro to rapturous applause from the local crowd. All the while, a full orchestra played majestic Spanish classical music to his every movement, giving the event a medieval feel and a sense of grand occasion. But for all the pomp, sparkling costumes and ceremonious music, there’s no detracting from the harsh reality of what ensues as the powerful animal is subjected to a slow, painful and certain death.

Left -During the festival the streets flood with people enjoying music and dance performances. Here women in traditional Flamenco outfits dance their way down the road.

HOW TO GET THERE FROM SCHIPHOL

hrs

Take a three hour flight from Schiphol to Málaga airport. From the airport it’s a very short ride to the city centre. Just take a cab or the bus. ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

Despite the gory spectacle, the majority of the crowd rose to their feet in delight - showing their approval by franticly waving white flags - at the sight of numerous bloody bulls being dragged out of the ring. Like it or not, bullfighting is an aspect of Spanish culture that remains strong and present in Andalusia.

Golden charm With stunning architecture, renovated art galleries and cultural events happening on every corner, it’s fair to say that Málaga has enough to keep most people off the beach, for a while at least. With subtropical temperatures all year round and long stretches of golden beaches extending eight kilometres along the coast, it also doesn’t hurt to lounge by the sea and sip sangria for an afternoon or two. Besides, it provides the perfect backdrop to fully comprehend all the culture you’ve just soaked up. That’s where the true charm of the city lies; you get an authentic slice of Andalusian culture while enjoying the therapeutic benefits of a beautiful, sun-drenched setting. Málaga is the largest, southernmost city in Europe and lies approximately 130km north of Africa. With a history spanning over 2,500 years, it is considered one of the oldest cities in the world and was founded by the Phonecians in 770BC.

#SPLMALAGA Got a valuable travel tip about Malaga? Twitter it with #splmalaga and share it with the world.

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CAPE TOWN, SPLIT & EDINBURGH By: Catherine Smyth

CAPE TOWN: SOUTH AFRICA CURRENCY: South African Rand (ZAR) POPULATION: 3,500,000 LANGUAGE: Afrikaans/English

DO: How many people can say they’ve ridden an ostrich across an African plain as if it were a Harley Davidson? You can make such a claim if you take a short trip outside the city to one of the Oudtshoorn ostrich farms. If the idea of riding an ostrich doesn’t appeal you can always sample an ostrich steak, or an ostrich egg (a single egg can provide breakfast for 15 people), or shop for beautifully decorated egg shells and vibrant dyed feathers (which were once literally worth their weight in gold).

SEE: Locals claim that you have not truly seen Cape Town until you’ve witnessed it laid out before you from the top of Table Mountain, the flat-topped mountain that dominates the Cape Town skyline. Access the plateau by cable car or, if you’re feeling energetic, hike the three kilometres to the top.

KNOW: Wine is big business in Cape Town and the surrounding area is home to some excellent intimate wine routes. Areas such as Constantia offer wine-tasting tours, as well as rustic farm-kitchen restaurants, boutique shops and spas in a tranquil, dreamy setting. M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 11hrs ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

SPLIT: CROATIA CURRENCY: Kuna (HRK) POPULATION: 178,000 LANGUAGE: Croatian

DO: Take a day trip to one of the Dalmatian Islands dotted along the coastline. The biggest, Hvar, boasts white sandy beaches and rolling lavender fields and is widely considered to be one of the most beautiful tourist destinations in the world. Dozens of boats depart each day from the quaint town port – take your pick from a ferry, catamaran, water taxi or luxury private sail boat.

SEE: The Diocletian’s Palace is a world heritage site not hidden behind ropes and Perspex

panels; it’s a lively, interactive walled city where 21st century life goes on against an ancient Roman backdrop. Its labyrinth of streets is peppered with restaurants, boutique shops, bars and quaint accommodation, and the welcoming community atmosphere makes visitors feel as if they’re guests of the emperor Diocletian himself.

KNOW: Dining out is a wonderful experience in Split – especially if you’re on a budget. A three-course meal in a restaurant serving local specialities made with fresh produce from the neighbourhood costs a fraction of what it would in many other European cities. M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 2hrs 15min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

EDINBURGH: SCOTLAND CURRENCY: Pound (GBP) POPULATION: 486,000 LANGUAGE: English

DO: Take a walk up the Royal Mile in Edinburgh’s old town to absorb the authentic and well maintained Scottish atmosphere. Starting at the dramatic, modern structure that hosts the Scottish parliament, the Royal Mile runs through the centre of Edinburgh and is lined with traditional Scottish pubs, eateries, museums, boutique shops and some of the oldest and most beautiful buildings in the United Kingdom.

SEE: Superstitious? Pay a visit to Mary King’s

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Close, believed to be one of the most haunted locations in Europe. Buried deep beneath the Royal Mile, this medieval warren of streets and alleyways has an intensely dark history and illustrates Edinburgh’s murky antiquity in a lively, thrilling way.

KNOW: Much of Edinburgh, including the great ancient castle – which safeguards some of the most significant documents and artefacts in Scottish history – is built on a dormant volcano. Every day at 1PM the sound of an explosion reverberates around the city from the cannon that is ceremonially blasted at the castle. M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 1hr 30min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

CITY GUIDE

STRASBOURG, ZÜRICH & ISTANBUL STRASBOURG: FRANCE CURRENCY: Euro (EUR) POPULATION: 280,000 LANGUAGE: French

DO: The city is chiefly known for its sandstone Gothic Cathedral. Climb the spiral staircase of one of the tallest churches in the world for views not only of the entire city, but also the French suburbs and country on one side and the German mountains and fields on the other.

SEE: Two words: Petite France. A walk along one of the canal-lined cobbled streets in the shadow of the half-timbered houses will probably have you gasping at the breathtak-

ing surroundings. Terraces of restaurants, cafés and bars spill out on to the streets and are always busy. Whether you’re with company or going solo it’s well worth stopping off to have a bite to eat and watch the world go by.

KNOW: A French/Germanic city and the seat of the European parliament, Strasbourg is a city of politics. Many of the visitors to Strasbourg are likely to be diplomats, lobbyists and activists. There is a large expat community making Strasbourg a melting pot of European culture.

M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 1hr 10min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

ZÜRICH: SWITZERLAND CURRENCY: Swiss Franc (CHF) POPULATION: 372,000 LANGUAGE: German

DO: Eat fondue. It’s a Swiss classic and Zürich takes pride in serving up the finest in the country. Bring on the cheese!

KNOW: In recent years, Zürich has been trying hard to shake its reputation as a serious centre of all things financial to become known as a contemporary city of vibrancy, culture, art and entertainment. An explosion in the number of clubs, bars, galleries and eateries means there’s plenty of choice for the discerning traveller.

SEE: Lake Zürich, the grand lake that provides the majority of the city’s drinking water, is a diverse leisure area right on Zürich’s doorstep. Surrounded by restaurants, spas, museums and nature trails, the lake is a hotbed for water sports during the summer, and the surrounding area becomes a winter sports arena when the colder months arrive.

M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 1hr 35min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

ISTANBUL: TURKEY CURRENCY: Lira (TRY) POPULATION: 8,800,000 LANGUAGE: Turkish

DO: Shop! Visit the Istanbul Grand Bazaar for an exhaustingly satisfying eastern experience. With around 5,500 vendors competing for custom there are endless opportunities to haggle with all your confidence and conviction and get the adrenalin pumping. The Grand Bazaar is a warren of hundreds of shops, restaurants, tea rooms, Turkish baths and fountains, where you can buy everything from handcrafted jewellery to locally sourced spices and Turkish sweets made on the spot.

SEE: Sultanahmet and the Baazar Quarter, the historic pulse of postcard Istanbul, where the ancient domes, minarets, mosques and mosaics all lie beautifully preserved after thousands of years. The contrast of the ancient eastern history surrounded by a city so modern and vibrant is something that can only be experienced in Istanbul.

KNOW: Istanbul is a rising super city, with a young, cultured inner city population of more than eight million. The city is working every day to project its artistic, lively reputation and is on the map as one of the pioneers of the future. M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 3hrs 20min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

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VIENNA, TEL AVIV & OSLO VIENNA: AUSTRIA CURRENCY: Euro (EUR) POPULATION: 1,700,000 LANGUAGE: German

alone, without even having to set foot in one of the impressive theatres, museums or galleries.

KNOW: Theatre, fine art, opera and classical DO: Attend an evening performance at the state opera house. Widely considered to be one of Europe’s most magnificent venues, it offers a great experience for seasoned operalovers and newcomers alike, from the audio to the awe-inspiring visuals.

music are at the core of the city’s culture. The post-Christmas period in the city is known as ‘ball season’, where all institutions of any social standing host grand, formal balls.

SEE: The Museums Quartier is where you’ll find the heart of the art, culture and history that Vienna is renowned for. The city’s grand opulence is illustrated by the architecture

M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 1hr 50min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

TEL AVIV: ISRAEL CURRENCY: Shekel (ILS) POPULATION: 400,000 LANGUAGE: Hebrew/Arabic

are the best days to get a snapshot of Jewish culture, being the most popular day of the week for Jewish wedding ceremonies.

DO: A wreck dive. Tel Aviv is a coastal beach

KNOW: Tel Aviv is something of the sin city of

city with multiple diving companies catering for the most experienced to absolute beginners. The waters around Tel Aviv are among the best for diving in the Mediterranean. Experienced divers can take part in a guided dive to the ‘sea wolf’ wreck which lies 30m beneath the surface.

SEE: Check out the beaming newlyweds in

the Mediterranean. Its world-famous night life and party culture puts it in dramatic contrast to Israel’s other popular tourist destinations such as Jerusalem and Nazareth which are more likely to attract a religious crowd. Much of Tel Aviv is new and modern with only small districts such as the aforementioned Jafa area, where you will find ancient Israeli historical sites.

Jafa on Monday afternoons. The old city area of Tel Aviv provides the picture-perfect backdrop for just-married couples. Mondays

M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 4hrs ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

OSLO: NORWAY CURRENCY: Krone (NOK) POPULATION: 4,900,000 LANGUAGE: Norwegian

DO: Make a visit to the Norwegian Royal Palace where, unlike many European royal palaces, the building is open to the public with guided tours available during the summer. Watch the changing of the guard spectacle which takes place every day at 1.30PM.

100m-long bridge across a waterfall adorned with engraved granite illustrations of humans at different stages of development.

KNOW: If you’re planning a shopping trip in Oslo, it’s well worth keeping the Grünerløkka (pronounced; gr-under-lookha) district in mind. An interesting, unique area, it is the place to find little boutiques and independent shops selling clothing, handicrafts and pottery from young, Norwegian designers.

SEE: Vigeland Sculpture Park is a must-see for art lovers. It contains 192 thought provoking sculptures by Gustav Vigeland, each a statement on the theme of life and relationships. One of the most interesting attractions is the

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M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 1hr 30min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

CITY GUIDE

DUBAI, REYKJAVIK & BRUGES DUBAI: THE EMIRATES CURRENCY: Dirham (AED) POPULATION: 2,200,000 LANGUAGE: Arabic

DO: Get trigger happy! Situated in an imposing fortress-style building, the Jebel Ali International Shooting Club offers a full range of shooting facilities and activities. You can try your hand at anything from Olympic skeet shooting to clay pigeon blasting.

SEE: Camel racing as a sport takes place mainly during the winter months in Dubai. Starting around October, races are held on Thursday and Friday mornings at dedicated tracks around the country. The best way to

experience this unique, exciting sport that you won’t see anywhere outside the United Arab Emirates is by visiting on public holidays when there is a huge turnout of spectators and an electric atmosphere.

KNOW: The Burj Al Arab hotel claims to be the most luxurious in the world and is one of only a handful worldwide to have been awarded seven-star status. With rain showers and Jacuzzis in every suite (there are only suites, no rooms), a fleet of Rolls Royces and butlers on call 24 hours a day there is very little globally that can compare. M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 7hrs ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

REYKJAVIK: ICELAND CURRENCY: Krona (ISK) POPULATION: 120,000 LANGUAGE: Icelandic

providing different packages it is possible to view Puffin Island, and even catch your own fish on a sea-angling cruise.

KNOW: Reykjavik is the most northern capital DO: Sink into a bath in a giant thermal spa pool at the Blue Lagoon, no matter what the weather’s doing. The Blue Lagoon spa uses geothermal energy and natural minerals to heat and treat its guests with a spa pool heated at 37-39C. There is also free moisturising, exfoliating Sicilia mud for application to the face and body.

city in the world. During mid-winter the city and surrounding areas receive only four hours of daylight, but in the summer months the days are long and the nights are almost as bright as the afternoon.

SEE: Some majestic sea giants on a whalewatching tour in Reykjavik that runs until late October. With a choice of companies

M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 3hrs 10min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

BRUGES: BELGIUM CURRENCY: Euro (EUR) POPULATION: 116,000 LANGUAGE: Dutch/French

DO: Pay a visit to a traditional Belgian brewery in a country renowned for its beer. With reasonably priced tours offered in English, French and Dutch, De Halve Maan Brewery introduces the brewing process, history and other fascinating facts about Belgian brewing (and includes a lot of free samples too, of course).

SEE: The city laid out beneath you from the dizzying heights of a hot air balloon. Bright balloons are a common sight on the city’s

skyline, and rides are popular among tourists and locals alike for a romantic surprise or just a treat. The bird’s eye view of the medieval city with its church spires and canals along with the surrounding green countryside is something spectacular.

KNOW: This old medieval city is the most popular tourist destination in Belgium. Many will say that this international melting pot of people milling around the quiet market squares, ancient chapels and mellow canals gives Bruges much of its famed charm and atmosphere. M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: Too close for flights

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CITY GUIDE

LONDON, BOGOTÁ & LOS ANGELES LONDON: UNITED KINGDOM CURRENCY: Pound (GBP) POPULATION: 7,800,000 LANGUAGE: English

DO: Shop until your plastic melts. Undisputed as the shopping Mecca of the planet, London casts the likes of Dubai into the ‘wannabe’ bracket and leaves Paris and New York scrabbling over 2nd place. A full shopping review of London could never be squeezed into a few words, so we suggest that you research the different shopping districts, markets, department stores, flagship stores and everything in between to work out what suits you best. There really is something for everyone.

SEE: London is known for its many markets, but foodies need only know of one. Borough Market is the city’s gourmet centre, providing a little bit of everything from everywhere. Find everything from obscure ingredients, raw or ready-to-prepare meat and fish as well heavenly ready-to-eat treats.

KNOW: When it comes to transport, London is well organised. As soon as you arrive in town, buy an Oyster Card! The city transport card gives you cheap and easy access to the vast majority of London’s transport network. Without one, you’ll have to pay up to six times as much for a single journey. M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 1hr ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

BOGOTÁ: COLOMBIA CURRENCY: Peso (COP) POPULATION: 7,400,000 LANGUAGE: Spanish

DO: For caffeine addicts, a coffee masterclass at Escuela Café is a must. Participants can enjoy South America’s finest fresh produce in a four-hour hands-on espresso and cappuccino workshop. The course is led by an expert who not only offers a wealth of information on everything from history, theory and barista techniques, but plenty of insider knowledge on the best cafés in Bogotá and what they have to offer, too.

SEE: Magpies will love the grand gold and

emerald displays at one of Bogotá’s precious metal and stone museums or the Museo del Oro. Dripping with splendorous wealth and history such museums provide a jaw-dropping spectacle as well as factual information about a fascinating pre-Hispanic historical period.

KNOW: Bogotá is the capital of Colombia. Well located geographically, and also positioned as the political, financial and service centre of the country, Bogotá serves as a good base for travellers who wish to explore further afield in Colombia and South America. M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 14hrs 45min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

LOS ANGELES: USA CURRENCY: US Dollar (USD) POPULATION: 3,800,000 LANGUAGE: English

DO: Enjoy the sun on one of the glorious, world famous beaches, because ‘sightseeing’ doesn’t have to mean rushing around. Where better to catch some rays and indulge in some people-watching than on one of LA’s iconic stretches of sand?

SEE: An indie film. In a city where there is such a heavy concentration of filmmakers, writers, actors, producers and directors all trying to elbow their way into the big time, Los Angeles’ independent cinema is unsur-

prisingly of a very high standard. Although most films don’t have the budget to launch on the world stage you could be pleasantly surprised and highly impressed by how well some films are put together on such a small budget.

KNOW: Los Angeles is a lot bigger than many people think. It has a population of 20 million and is made up of five counties: Los Angeles, Riverside, Ventura, Orange and San Bernardino.

M FLIGHT TIME FROM AMS: 10hrs 15min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

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EVENT

BIZZARE HAPPENINGS

OKTOBERFEST MUNICH W 17 SEPT-3 OCT 2011

The mayor of Munich, clad in lederhosen, begins the festivities at noon by tapping the first barrel of beer. And so begins Oktoberfest, 16 days of pure drinking pleasure. W

Sullivan’s List is based on the unique story of U.S. park ranger Roy C. Sullivan (1912 1983) who was hit by lightning seven times. He survived every strike and each time he talked about making a list of all the amazing events and places he wanted to experience. He never made this list. Sullivan’s List is the inspiration for those who don’t want to wait for lightning to strike but want to explore the world right now. SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.COM

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EVENT ORIGIN

YOU CAN REASSURE YOURSELF that you’re not just drinking beer for days on end, but also learning new things since beer is intrinsically linked to the culture here in Bavaria. And, if you start drinking at ten in the morning, you’re bound to learn a lot about the different taste sensations of the six Munich beers on offer. That’s much more educational than a trip to a museum, isn’t it? Even outside the 14 massive beer tents, there’s a lot going on. There are fireworks, music and a dizzying array of attractions. During the daytime, the music caters to a wider audience – the big parties begin later in the evening, after the elderly and families with small children have gone home. But don’t worry – if you’ve overindulged and end up joining the ranks of the bierleichen (beer corpses), there are brigades of first aid volunteers, usually eager young people, to come to your aid. And if you’re thinking of bringing your well-used beer mug (called a Mass) home from Oktoberfest with you, keep in mind that every year the guards at the exits fish out more than 60,000 mugs from jacket pockets and handbags. So try to think of a better hiding place for your souvenir.

The first Oktoberfest was held in 1810 to honour the wedding of Crown Prince Louis of Bavaria and Princess Therese of Saxehildburghausen (hence the Theresienwiese, the main space where the festivities take place). The horse races that were part of the original festivities have been phased out over the years.

PARTICIPATE Drinking alone is not fully participating, so try to mix and mingle. If you’re feeling really enthusiastic, rent or buy a Bavarian outfit:

lederhosen for the guys or a dirndl for girls.

Over-indulged? Volunteers come to your aid

LOST DURING OKTOBERFEST 2010 1450 items of clothing 770 ID cards 420 wallets 37 children 1 rabbit

MUNICH, GERMANY

TIPS: Book a seat at a table ahead of time. For more info, visit oktoberfest. de. If you haven’t booked ahead, show up early in the day. The tents are open weekdays for ten hours and for nine hours during the weekend. Each tent has its own character. All the details can

M FLIGHT TIME FROM SCHIPHOL: 1.5hrs ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

be found online, so just check the website for more

www

information and for enough cash, since you won’t get too far with a credit or debit card.

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PHOTO: BART LAPERS

booking. Take along

SULLIVANSLIST.COM Create lists, share your experiences or order the book online! bWhat’s this thing? This is a QR code that you can scan with a smartphone. For more info, check page 98.

LITERATURE

BRANDWASHED By: Martin Lindstrom

As a kid Martin Lindstrom constructed his own bed of Lego. Now he researches how brand addiction can reach unprecedented levels. What tricks do modern Don Drapers use to make you buy a product? Read this article at your own peril!

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BRANDWASHED

/MARTIN LINDSTROM Martin Lindstrom is a 2009 recipient of Time Magazine’s ‘World’s 100 Most Influential People’ and author of Buyology - Truth and Lies About Why We Buy, a New York Times and Wall Street Journal bestseller. As a consultant for companies like McDonald’s, PepsiCo, American Express and The Walt Disney Company (among others) he informs us about what’s going on behind the scenes. Brandwashed is his latest book.

THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS when you first arrive at Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport as a foreign tourist. There’s no friendly voice at border control welcoming you to the Land of the Brave, instead you are informed over the loudspeaker about the need to use hand sanitiser, frequently, to minimise the risk of viruses and disease.

Mad-cow

got over the fear of one, another followed. Mad Cow Disease swiftly attacked the brain of those who ate meat from contaminated cattle. More than 4.5 million cows were slaughtered during the eradication programme in the UK. SARS, a respiratory disease caused by a virus, threatened to become a pandemic at the end of 2002. Then came bird flu, a fatal form of the common flu virus passed on by birds.

The U.S. has become a nation of hand sanitisers. It comes in bottles large enough to be used by every member of the gym, and small enough to attach to a key ring or a dog’s collar. Hand sanitisation products come packaged as wipes, gels and sprays. They all contain ethyl alcohol, an ingredient that guarantees a 99.99 per cent germ-free existence. Remarkably, hand sanitisers were unknown outside of medical facilities just five short years ago. Now you find them everywhere. Hand sanitisers have become as commonplace in our lives as toothpaste. Just the other day a well-meaning patron reminded me to take a squirt from one of those Purell sanitising machines before I sat down at my table in a New York restaurant. A short while later, when catching up with an old friend, I noticed he surreptitiously sanitised his hands after we’d greeted one another with a warm handshake.

Hand sanitisers were unknown outside of medical facilities five years ago - now they’re everywhere

How did this product manage to make such broad inroads into American culture? Certainly, there have been some scary moments with new and frightening diseases emerging. There was a time when it seemed that as soon as we

A recent study on people’s internet search patterns showed how health authorities can use this information to track the outbreak of disease. They can determine where and when to begin preparing for illness in a region five days

SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.COM

before it occurs. What sounds like a complex system of prediction is actually quite straightforward. As soon as people begin to feel symptoms of illness, the first thing that they do is go online to search for causes and answers. This enables authorities to prepare medical practitioners and hospitals for a potential influx of whatever diseases the searches point to.

Antibacterial mania This search information has proved equally valuable for the manufacturers of sanitisers. They can roll out their sales campaigns in much the same way as politicians stump for votes. They gather their brochures and samples and take them to the region where illness is spiking. Furthermore, they can stock the local stores in a matter of days. As we feel the symptoms of illness – the sore throat, the blocked nose – we become more susceptible to buying any product that offers protection. What’s more, we believe that if we had been a little more vigilant and used the product that wards off the germs, we would have prevented it. So, in this way, we become superstitious and believe that if we focus on keeping our environment germ free, we will be spared whatever microbes lurk in the biosphere. But get this. Numerous studies show that ordinary run-of-the-mill soap and water is more effective at combating disease than all the hand sanitisers out there. Ironically, neither SARS nor Mad Cow Disease can be prevented by antibacterial cleansing gels. SARS is spread

LITERATURE

by microscopic droplets spread by an infected person coughing or sneezing, and has nothing to do with the cleanliness of your hands. Nevertheless, since the 2009 panic, the idea of an unseen, potentially fatal contagion has driven us into an antibacterial mania, one that has helped sales of Purell, the top-selling hand sanitiser, to jump by 50 per cent, and Clorox disinfecting wipes by 23 per cent.

Skull and bones No other country in the world knows more about cleanliness than Japan. It is customary for everyone to take their shoes off before entering a home, take a shower before a meal, and double-wrap most food products in sanitised plastic – nothing wrong with that. However, recently an unusual trend has begun to emerge. Mothers obsessed with cleanliness have begun keeping their children inside. That way they can be sure their young ones will not be exposed to microbes in soil that can get under fingernails. The result of their vigilance has been a dramatic lowering of children’s immune systems, and an increase in allergy to dust and dirt. We’re predisposed to react to fear-related messages, and our commercial world is quick to capitalise on it. Most insurance companies, like State Farm, buy contextual ads in newspapers. They’re kept on stand-by and are ready to be published just as soon as there’s a major accident or natural disaster. Insurance companies know that once we’re on alert, we’re more inclined to be seduced by relevant commercial

Mothers obsessed with cleanliness keep their children inside messages. Take something as simple as your Norton Antivirus, which works to keep your computer safe. The company is there to let you know just how many thousands of viruses are trying to attack your system each day. Naturally, the notification that pops up is graphically supported with the illustration of a skull, just in case you didn’t get the seriousness of their message once you’re in doubt about whether to renew another year.

What’s safe?

being stolen online. Then there are our bodily fears – yellow teeth, bad breath, lank hair, smelly feet or BO. Certainly, some of it is relevant, though most of it isn’t. Yet, in a society where fear has become a commercial fashion, who dares not to stay on message? It might be that there’s some truth to this. After all, how can so many people, as well as the sanitising manufacturers, the insurance companies, the hotels and even U.S. border control be wrong? Or can they...

Hotels have wasted no time piggybacking on the fear trend, placing ‘safe’ covers on glasses. As part of the research I conducted for my new book Brandwashed, I interviewed 55 housekeepers in 25 hotels. Twenty one admitted to washing the glasses, however they also admitted to often drying them with the used towels they’d just picked up off the bathroom floor. So much for the ‘safe’ covers. Fear sells – and as numerous psychologists can confirm, it spreads faster, is more efficient and has a bigger impact than even the most aggressive viruses out there. Fear plugs directly into our instinct for survival. And believe me, today’s consumers have many fears; the fear of being alone, the fear of death, the fear of children being kidnapped or our own identity

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BEHIND THE SCENES

What’s the Fire Department up to? BY: MIKE PEEK VIDEO: MICHAEL WHITENER

Meet Schiphol’s Finest! They not only serve the airport, but the surrounding area as well.

The fire fighters work 24-hour shifts, so a good bed is a must.

They do their own cooking...

...play some pool in their spare time...

...and even participate in soccer tournaments.

As a fireman, your level of fitness is tested and graded on a regular basis.

It’s mostly hard work though.

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SCHIPHOL

Meanwhile in the garage, fire trucks are always ready to go.

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a training center on site. During their four-to-five month education new recruits learn to use the equipment...

...and have to prove their tactical skills. This miniature maze is used to show them how every type of fire demands a specific approach.

the protective clothing has to be in the exact same position every time.

30SEC! ...it travels along a roller coaster of belts to get to its destination.

Because when a call comes in, protocol demands fire fighters leave their station within 30 seconds. They have to be at the actual fire 2.5 minutes later.

The Schiphol Fire Department HANDLES ALL AIRPORT-RELATED CALLS ABOUT FIRE ALARMS IN BUILDINGS, CAR ACCIDENTS, ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES AND IS ON STANDBY FOR ANY AIRCRAFT HAVING LANDING OR TAKE OFF ISSUES.

Luckily, most of these calls turn out to be false. Still, the fire fighters have to prepare for the worst. >> SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.COM

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This team member tries to calm the victim down....

...before the roof of his car is cut open. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why they also practice car accidents where people are trapped in the vehicle.

They have to be gentle to avoid worsening his injuries.

Once the victim is secured, he is handed over to ambulance personnel.

Now weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re talking. Schiphol built a life-size plane to simulate fires: the aptly named FireFly.

SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.COM

Another life saved!

SCHIPHOL

Burn baby, burn!

The plane is set on fire using LPG.

Discussing today’s drill.

The FireFly is a mixture of planes so firemen can practice with all major models.

Every second counts. The fire has to be extinguished within three minutes. The waste water is intercepted below the grills and recycled during the next practice.

3MIN!

Inside and around the plane 26 different types of fire can be simulated.

Water is also used to cool the vehicle, so occupants don’t get overheated.

VIDEO Want to see all the action in motion? Scan the QR code and take a real glimpse behind the scenes!

Once the blaze has been put out, firemen can enter the plane to liberate passengers.

bWhat’s this thing?

A job well done!

This is a QR code that you can scan with a smartphone. For more info on how to use this code, check page 98.

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Eating Authentic

Aruba

From the ubiquitous fast food chains to the cavernous dollar-marked supermarkets, a cruise down the island’s main strip shows more than

a little American inﬂuence. How much is left of the authentic Aruba? We take you on a culinary trip to ﬁnd out! By: Elysia Brenner Photography: Louise Honee

Rooster

DESPITE ITS MEMBERSHIP in the Kingdom of the Netherlands, 75 per cent of Aruba’s visitors come from the States. Natives speak Dutch, but not quite as well as they do English. And when they talk among themselves they fire off the heavily Spanish-influenced rat-tat-tat of their local Papiamento. This is characteristic to a country that has been dominated by foreign cultures. But what’s left of their own cultural heritage?

In search of authenticity we rent a car and head to Cunucu Arubiano, the only eco-lodge on the island. The site is remote and the only neighbouring attractions are the onsite Donkey Sanctuary, nearby Ayo rock formation and the wild beauty of the Andicuri beach cove. Beyond the eco-lodge’s mock ruin walls, among the mish mash of foliage punctuated by ubiquitous fingers of cactus, beats the heart of traditional Aruba. Co-owner Lisette tells us about a grisly sounding ritual performed in nearby San Juan every year on 24 June when a live rooster is buried up to its neck and its head is used as a piñata – only these days they use a calabash gourd instead. A tradition locals call Dera Gay or ‘Bury the Rooster’. But as I ask for rooster on the menu, she has to disappoint me. The eco-lodge consists of three bungalows on 3,000 square metres of windswept wilderness and food is not being served. Let alone rooster. Hungry guests are pointed toward nearby markets and local delivery services or shipped off to Saveneta. Zeerover Restaurant

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TRAVEL REPORT

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Those who make it to this south-eastern corner of the island usually head for San Nicolas’s idyllic Baby Beach, dotted with palapa huts, or the kitschy Charlie’s Bar, which is drowning in souvenirs. We go to Zeerover’s instead. A dusty lottery stand is hiding the entrance and as we walk along the picnic and pool tables, a half-naked fisherman washes himself off with a hose while another hacks a stingray with a mini machete. As we step onto the dock, a Papiamentospeaking family snags the lone table at the end of the pier. Yes, I’m convinced we’ll find some authentic cuisine here!

Ketchup With no menu to choose from, we simply order ‘fish’ and get handed a basket of deep-fried ‘catch of the day’ still on the bone. It’s our guess whether it’s Red Snapper, Grouper, Mahi Mahi, or at least half a dozen other local fish it may be. It comes accompanied by stacks of shrimp, fried bananas, and Belgian-style fries. This is an inexpensive feast, albeit made up of greaseenriched flavours. But not nearly as rich as the plate that Eduard Ellis, chef at another traditional restaurant called Papiamento, serves us. It’s keshi yena - the perfect example of Aruban cuisine. A mix of chicken, vegetables, cashew nuts and raisins covered by tomato sauce and Gouda. The tricky part is that it’s made differently by every family. In fact, the savoury, meaty version we have at Papiamento could easily be confused for a completely different dish from the one we had at the Marriott. One that includes lots of sweet ketchup too.

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With no menu to choose from, we simply order ‘fish’

TRAVEL REPORT

Fisherman at Zeerover Restaurant

OTHER ARUBAN DISHES TO TRY ,, Pan bati: Aruban cornmeal pancakes served with fish soups and other classics. Maria’s version uses local maishi rabo instead of cornmeal, giving it a slight blue colour and a sweeter taste. ,, Funchi: Aruban polenta. A filling, if somewhat bland, base for any meal. ,, Conch: Known to Americans as the shell in which you can hear the ocean, this shell fish is as rubbery as its cousins, but has a fresh, sweet taste almost reminiscent of coconut. ,, Pica di Papaya: A brand of sauce from the intensely spicy Madame Jeanette pepper and, naturally, papaya found on every dinner table. ,, Aruban basil: You’ll find it everywhere from the island’s soups to restaurant garnishes. It has a pleasantly stringent citrusy green flavour.

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Whether or not the recipes conform to tradition, the building certainly does. This thickwalled former home of the Ellis family was built in 1886 and is now surrounded by a secret garden of candlelit delights. I have never felt more luxurious as I did sipping an intriguingly stony Alsace pinot blanc from the restaurant’s extensive wine cellar while sitting beneath the tangle of trees.

Pork tail

At Pastechi House they serve a non-fattening kroket.

The branches of the Divi-Divi tree always point south west and acts as Aruba’s natural compass due to the constant trade winds that blow across the island from the north east.

HOW TO GET THERE FROM SCHIPHOL

10 hrs

A flight from Schiphol to Aruba Airport takes ten hours if you have a direct flight. We recommend that you arrange to rent a car from the airport in advance. ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

Finally we turn to former TV Chef Maria ta den Cushina (Maria in the Kitchen) who receives us in the sprawling ranch house of a friend. Family members mill about as we’re put to work chopping. As we get our hands dirty Maria sets us straight about traditional Aruban cuisine. Although we learned that goat is popularly enjoyed across the island (there’s a scraggly herd grazing on the sparse foliage outside the window as she speaks), it originally comes from Bonaire and Curacao. Real Aruban recipes, like the cumin and nutmeg-spiced stew of pumpkin and spiny, round Aruban cucumbers called Komkomber Stoba we’re making now, include pork tail, foot, or even headcheese. However, it’s in the dessert realm that Aruban cuisine really shines. For this meal we have Ponche Crema, an alcoholic milkshake. After a sip I can’t help but agree when Maria says that Arubans get quite fat, because they’re always eating sweets. With the word ‘fat’ on the table, conversation drifts back to American influences. A local gripes it’s mostly the younger generation that prefers McDonald’s to fresh fish and herbs. Yet, when asked about the Pastechi House - a family-run factory that churns out healthier versions of the island’s favourite pastry, basically a cornmeal empanada - the same man concludes that it doesn’t feel like Aruban food without the grease. I’m not deluded into thinking the cake batter taste of Ponche Crema, which is also soaked in rum, is any healthier than fast food (it’s basically a mix of milk, sugar, eggs and pistachio and vanilla flavours). But by now I’ve found my Aruban sweet tooth and I ask for another glass, letting the thick, cool liquid slide down my throat as I wipe away a drop of sweat and gaze lazily at the goats strolling by. WHEN TO GO Throughout the year highs fluctuate between 30-45C (86113F) and it rarely rains, so there’s never a bad time to go. But beware of high prices and extra crowds during the high season from 5 December through 15 April.

#SPLARUBA Got a valuable travel tip about Aruba? Twitter it with #splaruba and share it with the world.

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TRAVEL REPORT

QUIZ

PHOTO COCKPIT: TOMMY TONG

OOOH... WHAT DOES THIS BUTTON DO?

MAP REFERENCE Page 96 Want to see a cockpit up close and got time to kill? Pay a visit to the Fokker 100 airplane at the Panorama Terrace.

has been a pilot for 4 years AGE: 32 FLIES FOR: ARKEFLY FLYING HOURS: 3,000

TURN MAGAZINE UPSIDE DOWN

tions, NORM and START. In the START position it initiates starting of the left engine on the Boeing 777. The engine starts turning ANSWER: This selector is situated on the overhead panel and is called the START Selector. The START Selector has two posi-

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FOR ANSWER

by opening the start valve. At a predetermined RPM, ignition will begin and kerosene is added. When the engine reaches idle

NAME: THOMAS VAN DEN HEUVEL

RPM, the start valve closes and the START Selector automatically moves from START back to NORM.

Before his 19th birthday Frank Abagnale Jr. successfully cashed millions of dollars’ worth of checks posing as a Pan Am pilot. Pretty clever considering there’s quite a lot you need to know before you can actually fly a plane. Are you a potential Abagnale? We put your knowledge to the test!

Sneak Peek

GODS WITHOUT MEN By Hari Kunzru

LITERATURE

Sneak Peek

/HARI KUNZRU

Gods Without Men is Hari Kunzru’s fourth novel. It centres around the mysterious disappearance of a young autistic boy in the Californian desert and interweaves multiple stories, including that of the boy and his parents, a British rock star on the run from LA and the residents of the remote tumbleweed town where their lives converge.

THE ROAD WAS white as a bone, the sky was airbrushed blue, and he was on his way to the emptiest square on the map. Nothing mattered except keeping it tight, slotting into a space between speeding cars, peeling off at a junction, swinging round and over and under and back, leaving disaster far behind. How long did he drive for? Three, maybe four hours. He wasn’t wearing a watch. The car didn’t have air conditioning and the wind blasting through the open window was hot and gritty. His brain was starting to sizzle in his skull like an egg in a pan, so he pulled in at a petrol station, stuck another sixty dollars into the tank and bought a big jug of water, most of which he poured over his head. As his poor swollen gray cells relaxed back to their normal size, he looked at the phone. Eleven missed calls. Several from Terry, a couple from Jimmy, even one from Noah. He didn’t bother listening to the messages. Whatever he was doing, it wasn’t about the band. The only person he wanted to hear from was Anouk. He willed the phone to ring again, for her number to appear on the screen. Call me, babe. Come and get me. 62

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The gaps between the junk towns grew bigger. Soon the only signs of life were rows of giant white wind turbines and billboards advertising casino resorts. An outlet mall rose up at the roadside like a mirage. Then nothing. Miles of rock and scrubby bushes. Eventually the light began to fade. Sparks were darting about at the edges of his vision, little comets he kept mistaking for overtaking cars or bats flying towards the windscreen. He was coming into a town whose name he hadn’t caught when he saw a motel sign. There were dozens of these shabby places along the route. Desert this and palm that. This one was called the Drop Inn. He was too tired to go any further.

‘He was on his way to the emptiest square on the map’ Reception was no bigger than a cupboard, a little box with a desk, a bell, a rack of postcards and a clattering screen door. The woman who emerged from the backroom had bigger hair than he’d seen on a real person since he was thirteen and found his mum’s cache of eighties workout videos. She was wearing a purple jumpsuit, which might have been hot (or at least ironic) on a

Hari Kunzru, 41, is a British novelist and journalist living in New York City. His work has been translated into 21 languages and won numerous awards, including the Betty Trask prize and a British Book Award.

twenty-year-old, but on her was sort of sad, an outfit fixed at the fashion moment when its wearer last felt beautiful. He couldn’t tell how old she was. Forty-five? Her mouth had little lines round it. When she wasn’t talking it shaped itself into a tired grimace as if she’d spent too much of her life saying things she didn’t mean. She told him to call her Dawn and insisted on giving him the full tour. He said he was tired, hoping she’d just give him the room key, but she was having none of it. www.penguin.co.uk

Gods Without Men by Hari Kunzru is published by Hamish Hamilton.

GODS WITHOUT MEN

TRIVIA

INTO THE WILD

GREEN IS ‘IN’. BUT WHAT DO YOU ACTUALLY KNOW ABOUT SOMETHING AS SIMPLE AS SAY, A TREE? HERE ARE SOME FACTS AND FIGURES TO FEED YOUR CURIOSITY!

Trees are the longest living organisms on earth and provide clean air, reduce noise pollution, improve water quality, prevent erosion, provide food and create shade. One tree supplies enough oxygen to support two people annually and absorbs as much carbon as a car produces driving 41,834 Kilometres. The average American uses the equivalent of a 30-metre-tall tree for their yearly paper needs. The world’s tallest tree measures 110 metres and the oldest is 4,600 years old. THE AVERAGE TREE IN AN URBAN AREA HAS A LIFE EXPECTANCY OF ONLY EIGHT YEARS. The largest forested area is the Amazon Basin (81.5 million acres). Some trees can talk. When insects attack willows they emit a chemical that tells neighbouring trees to send more tannin to their leaves, making it more difficult for insects to digest their leaves. THE TOTAL AMOUNT OF FORESTS WORLDWIDE IS LESS THAN FOUR BILLION HECTARES, WHICH IS ABOUT 30 PER CENT OF ALL THE LAND ON EARTH. SPLIT EVENLY EVERYONE WOULD RECEIVE A FOOTBALL FIELD OF TREES. Knocking on wood comes from a form of primitive tree worship, where rapping trees was supposed to summon protective spirits. The fastest-growing tree in the world is the albizzia falcata from Malaysia. This tree can grow more than one inch every day! THE MOST DENSELY FORESTED COUNTRY IS THE COOK ISLANDS WITH 95.7 PER CENT OF THEIR LAND BEING COVERED IN FOREST. Shade and wind buffering provided by trees reduces annual heating and cooling costs by 1.5 million euros. Schiphol Magazine is printed on FSC paper. SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.COM

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ADVERTORIAL

NO FAKE WEAPON AS A SOUVENIR

Whole bunches of toy pistols can be bought

For example, the following weapons come

between the beach balls and air beds in local

under the Weapons and Ammunition Act:

souvenir shops. Each year there are holiday

✘✘

Firearms

makers who buy fake firearms abroad and take

✘✘

Striking, thrust and stabbing weapons (for instance, knives, knuckle-dusters, swords,

these with them to the Netherlands. Especially

and the like)

in South European countries, such as Spain and Turkey, these fake weapons are openly sold. The

✘✘

Gas pistols

local weapon legislation is less strict in these

✘✘

Alarm pistols

countries than in the Netherlands. That is why

✘✘

Pepper spray

many people do not realise that these weapons

✘✘

Toy weapons that look like real weapons

are forbidden in the Netherlands. These are

✘✘

Ammunition

fake weapons that strongly resemble real weapons. What matters is the form and the size

One can only take weapons and ammunition to

of the fake weapon: a bright red pistol that looks

the Netherlands, if one has permission of the

like a real pistol is forbidden. The colour does

Dutch government to do so. For example, it is

not matter.

possible for weapons for shooting sports and hunting.

“It is for good reason that fake weapons are forbidden,” says the Customs Officer Louis de

Douane.nl/reizigers contains information

Vries. “They resemble real weapons so closely

about what can and what cannot be imported,

that they can be used to threaten people. It has

exported or transported.

happened that someone with a fake weapon has given the police a scare. Even the police officers did not realise that it was a fake weapon.” Lookalike toy weapons come under the most serious category of the Weapon and Ammunition Act in the Netherlands, even when one cannot even shoot with it. A fine of €270 is often imposed. Whoever has a fake weapon in his possession is immediately given an official report. Everybody with a fake weapon is liable to punishment. Even young people are criminally prosecuted.

THE SUITCASE JEROEN MATTHEE, a 28-year-old restaurant owner from France, let Schiphol Magazine take a sneaky peek inside his suitcase. By: Sarah Moore Photography: Joe Finch Meijer

INTERVIEW

‘I had to wear dirty socks for two days’

Did this require unique travel attire? Can you take me through the bag you’ve got with you?

�

No, I just packed normal clothes. Nothing specifically for meditation, just shorts and sandals for sunny weather. I packed light because I wanted to feel light at the seminar.

When you packed your suitcases, what was your strategy?

�

I just dumped all my clothes in at the last minute. My bag is just full of dirty laundry now.

Do you think you’ve forgotten anything?

�

Where have you come from and what are you doing at Schiphol?

�

I just came back from a crazy seminar in Portugal about healing. Now I’m back in the Netherlands to visit my family.

What did you do at the seminar?

�

I took lessons on how to put people back into balance through ‘reaching new frequencies’. Basically, you just wave your hands in the air! It was the funniest seminar I’ve ever been to. My mum has been ill with arthritis so I want to find a way to help her.

I didn’t forget anything, but I only packed for three days and ended up extending my trip to attend the advanced levels of the seminar. I was stuck wearing dirty socks for two days!

How often do you travel?

�

I’m usually always behind the bar in France, but this year I went to Sweden, South of France, and now Portugal. It’s been an unusual year of travel for me.

Have you ever had a luggage disaster, or lost a bag?

�

Well just on this flight I had a problem with my tripod. They wouldn’t let me take it on the plane, but didn’t tell me until I was already at the gate. I had to go all the way back to check-in.

SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.COM

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HEAD

Dutch people are the tallest in Europe and the second tallest in the world

A car journey from Delfzijl at the top of the Netherlands to Middelburg at the bottom is 395km (245 miles) and would take around four hours.

Holland has the highest museum density in the world, with almost 1,000 museums

MIDDELBURG

North Holland Friesland Groningen Drenthe Overijssel Flevoland Utrecht South Holland Gelderland Zeeland North Brabant Limburg

THE 12 PROVINCES a b c d e f g h i j k l

The Netherlands is often referred to as the ‘lowlands’. Why? Because half of the country is just one metre above sea level, and around 25 per cent is actually below it (including Schiphol Airport which is 4.5m below). Don’t worry – a complex system of dykes, dams, floodgates and dunes protects the country from the ever-present threat from the sea. The highest point in the country is 323 metres and is referred to as a ‘mountain’.

BELOW SEA LEVEL

75% of the entire world’s flower bulbs come from the Netherlands

Rotterdam is the secondlargest city in the Netherlands and the largest port in Europe.

ROTTERDAM

Den Haag is the third largest city in the Netherlands, after Amsterdam and Rotterdam, and it’s the seat of the Dutch Government.

DEN HAAG (THE HAGUE)

h 3

12 HIGHLIGHTS OF THE NETHERLANDS

HOLLAND?

The name Holland, although generally accepted, is not actually the name of the country. Holland makes up two of the 12 provinces in the Netherlands. The nation hasn’t been called Holland since the 17th century, when the provinces Brabant, Overijsel, Utrecht and Gelderland were added to the official territory. During the 17th century, when it was still called Holland, The Dutch East India Company enjoyed a monopoly on business in the orient, which is why many countries called the country Holland and the name stuck.

HOME BIRTH

Around 30 per cent of babies in the Netherlands are born at home – far more than in the US, UK and Japan, where only 1 per cent of deliveries take place in a home setting.

TINY COUNTRY

The Netherlands only occupies 0.008 per cent of the surface area of the world, but it is the third largest exporter of agricultural goods.

Highest point in the Netherlands: Vaalserberg, 323m.

3. Rotterdam Harbour

2. Paleis Soestdijk

1. Volendam

8. Groninger Museum

7. Lauwersland Bike Route

6. Dierenpark Emmen

5. Giethoorn

12. Bataviawerf

11. Kröller-Müller Museum

10. Efteling

9. Valkenburg aan de Geul

Visting the Netherlands? Pick an empty spot on your agenda and go see one of these highlights we’ve selected. Read all about them on the next page!

4. Het Arsenaal

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TRIVIA HEAD

FLAG

Red, white and blue horizontal stripes. Introduced in 1572 and officially in use since 1937.

Amsterdam has 1,281 bridges

The Netherlands produces 13,000,000 kilos of cheese per week

WELCOME TO THE NETHERLANDS

a Amsterdam is the largest city and the capital of the Netherlands. It is home to roughly 800,000 people. Amsterdam is only a 20-minute train ride away so if you have a long stopover, it’s a must-visit!

SCHIPHOL

AMSTERDAM

This is the country of windmills, wooden shoes and weed. But there’s much more to it than that: 12 national highlights!

DRUGS LEGAL?

(June 2011)

BICYCLE COUNTRY Since 1976 Holland has taken a liberal stance on ‘soft drugs’. One can buy up to five grams of marijuana and grow up to five plants at home. The sale of marijuana is decriminalised, but the large-scale production and wholesale of it is not. The DNRI (crime statistics institute) in Holland estimates that between 323 and 766 tonnes of marijuana are illegally produced each year, with anywhere between 18,000 and 42,000 grow operations. Holland has an estimated 363,000 marijuana users.

Population: 16,684,542 The Netherlands has around 15,000km of bicycle paths and almost every Dutch person owns a bike. There are around 16 million bikes – that’s twice the number of cars. Around 40,000 bikes are stolen annually, and those are just the thefts reported to the police. The most commonly given fine for cyclists is for a lack of lights and costs €60. At least 37 per cent of the population of Amsterdam rides a bike instead of using other forms of transport.

SINKING AMSTERDAM Amsterdam is built on poles because the ground is so soft. The poles ensure they can reach more solid ground, but in the past the buildings have often shifted, sunk and moved which is why almost all houses in Amsterdam are crooked.

DUTCH WEATHER ☔ Notoriously unpredictable, it is a common misconception that the Netherlands suffers from an extremely rainy climate. On average there is some form of precipitation seven per cent of the time, which equals about one hour and 40 minutes a day. Zurich, Milan and Munich are three European cities alone that have higher annual precipitation. The country enjoys a moderate maritime climate with cool summers and mild winters. From May through August the average hours of sun are around seven, and from November through January amount to about two.

About 86% of Dutch people speak English as a second language

YOU ARE HERE

NATIONAL COLOUR

COAT OF ARMS

PART OF EU

CURRENCY

DELFZIJL

The Netherlands adopted the euro on 1 January, ‘99. Before that, the national currency was the Guilder.

The Netherlands is one of the six founding member states of The European Communities.

The Dutch coat of arms is inscribed with Je Maintiendrai, French for ‘I will maintain.’

There are over 4,000,000 cows in the Netherlands

Orange is the national colour since the royal last name is ‘Van Oranje’ (of Orange).

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12 HIGHLIGHTS Of The Netherlands

PALEIS SOESTDIJK

ROTTERDAM HARBOUR

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By: Tim Hilhorst

VOLDENDAM

As a result of decades of relative isolation the town of Volendam pours culture from all of its picturesque seams. The fishing town is authentically Dutch and sports a generation of people that still wear century-old traditional garments. The winding roads and canals, small houses and drawbridges make for romantic scenery that inspired artists like Picasso and Renoir and continue to please locals and tourists alike.

HET ARSENAAL

From the sights on the top deck to the darkest corners of the bilge; from bow to stern the pirates’ den on the Vlissingen shores has a lot to offer for young and old. Het Arsenaal is an interactive entertainment experience about the life, times and struggles of pirates. Beyond pillaging and pipe smoking the ‘Pirates Adventure’ uses humour to elaborate on the wicked ways of pirates.

Arsenaalplein 7 Vlissingen arsenaal.com

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GIETHOORN

Often referred to as the Venice of Holland, Giethoorn is a charming waterside town. Founded by fugitives from the Mediterranean the town once had no roads and still transports its visitors mainly via bike paths and canals. The best way to experience all that it has to offer is by renting a boat and navigating through the canals, over the lakes, under the wooden drawbridges and past the reed-covered houses.

Eendrachtsplein 1 Giethoorn ervaarhetwaterreijk.nl/en

The port of Rotterdam is one of the most important harbours in Europe and the access point for over 350 million consumers. Aside from the vastness of the industrial area the harbour also boasts amazing sights, interesting exhibits and informative museums. Taking a water taxi is an absolute must, second only to the panoramic spots that can be seen on one of the many bike routes.

Wilhelminakade 909 Rotterdam portofrotterdam.com

Amsterdamsestraatweg 1 Baarn paleissoestdijk.nl

VVV Voldendam: Zeestraat 37 Volendam vvv-volendam.nl

The sizable Paleis Soestdijk was commissioned as an out-of-town retreat, but the historic palace has since been the primary residence of Dutch royalty, as well as military personnel during the war and Napoleon’s brother in the early 1800s. The extensive gardens around the 360-year-old palace are equally impressive. Booking a tour in advance is the only way to see the estate.

DIERENPARK EMMEN

The critically acclaimed Emmen Zoo is said to be the best zoo in the Benelux region. Carefully constructed habitats allow visitors close access to the animals that live in relative freedom. The zoo boasts an impressive butterfly garden and houses the largest colony of penguins in the world at the Playa Pingüinos.

Hoofdstraat 18 Emmen dierenpark-emmen.nl

TRIVIA

LAUWERSLAND BIKE ROUTE

GRONINGER MUSEUM

VALKENBURG AAN DE GEUL

As one of the nation’s favourite pastimes, biking is so ingrained in society it is an activity not to be missed by anyone serious about getting a real taste of the Netherlands. And what better place to go on a picturesque cycle than the rich natural landscapes in the Northern parts of the country? Lauwersland is ideal for cyclists, offering long bike paths past characteristic villages, through beautiful parks and along the inter-tidal zones that make Friesland so special. Op de Fetze 13 Dokkum vvvlauwersland.nl

EFTELING

Modern and contemporary art are central themes to the century-old Groninger Museum. Although not as well known as some of the other museums in the Netherlands it offers an equally worthwhile visit. Aside from the expressionism and post-modern art that decorate the walls of the museum, the history and culture of Groningen are thoroughly exhibited through archaeological finds and an abundance of regional art. Museumeiland 1 Groningen groningermuseum.nl/en/

KRÖLLER-MÜLLER MUSEUM

Attack and acquisition are key to understanding Valkenburg aan de Geul. Thousands of years before the start of Christianity people inhabited the region and scars of their presence are scattered throughout the hilly landscape. The most notable of these scars dates back to Roman time - the castle, which now sits atop a hill in ruins. Great for hiking, the area features idyllic towns and an abundance of archaeological history. Park Dersaborg: Geneindestraat 4 Valkenburg valkenburg.nl

BATAVIAWERF

10 Many Dutch children will have fond memories

11 In 1938 Helene Kröller-Müller’s dream of a

12 The Dutch fleet and its ships have long been

of fairytale-like Efteling. After passing through the massive tents that sit atop the entrance, everything from the parks and rides to the characters are surreal enough to manifest a fairytale world in the minds of young ones. Even parents are nostalgically titillated by stories and settings that hark back to childhood. As the biggest and longest-running theme park in the Netherlands it has quite the reputation.

‘museum house’ became a reality when the doors to the Kröller-Müller Museum opened. With over 11,000 original artifacts and numerous expansions since Helene’s death, the museum has become a well-known art centre in the Netherlands featuring work by greats like Van Gogh, Picasso, Léger and Mondriaan. Situated in the Hoge Veluwe National Park the museum also boasts a large outdoor sculpture garden.

heralded as some of the greatest in history. Experience the way these ships are built at the woodcarving workshop and admire the scaffolding of the replica of battleship De 7 Provinciën. The Bataviawerf also takes pride in its reconstruction of the VOC ship Batavia. Sitting in the Markermeer one can board the ship and wander around the decks to admire the detail that goes into building a real battleship.

Europalaan 1 Kaatsheuvel efteling.co.uk

Houtkampweg 6 Otterlo kmm.nl

Oostvaardersdijk 01-09 Lelystad bataviawerf.nl

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THE STYLE OF

LONDON Photography: Rene Mesman Styling: Hanna van den Bos

‘If you’re looking for one place where fashion’s on a high of celebratory confidence for the future, come to London.’ -Sarah Mower, fashion journalist

THE STYLE HEAD

of London

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* PRICES MAY VARY

1. Matinique, price on request 2. Ben Sherman, price on request 3. John Galliano, €216 * 4. JC Rags, €129 * 6. British Indigo, €299 * 7. Rado, €975 * 8. LEE, €140 * 9. Levis, €139.95 * 10. Samsøe & Samsøe, €219 *

5. Japan Rags, €79.95 *

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of London

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4. Fred Perry, €44.95 *

5. Michael Barnaart van Bergen, €170 *

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IWC ‘TOP GUN’ PILOT €6750* ROLEX GMT MASTER II €12400* IWC SPITFIRE €4310*

TIME ZONE:

WATCH THIS Photography: Rene Mesman Styling: Hanna van den Bos

Breitling Aviator Seaweller Chrome €5,210* Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Sport €11,750* Audemars Piquet Royal Oak Offshore Carbon €28,490*

* PRICES MAY VARY

ALL WATCHES ARE AVAILABLE AT THE WATCHES & JEWELLERY SECTION AT SCHIPHOL

IWC Pilots Chrono Auto Top Gun €6,750*

IWC ‘TOP GUN’ PILOT €6750* ROLEX GMT MASTER II €12400* IWC SPITFIRE €4310*

ON FOOT:

DROP SHOT Photography: Rene Mesman Styling: Hanna van den Bos

Pink/white Vans €35* Velcro kids Puma €44.95* Petrol man Puma €89.95* Blue ladies DC Shoes €74.95*

* PRICES MAY VARY

Boot black Rubber Duck €119.95*

JORDAN Rockinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; the Middle East

Hiking, canyoning, desert racing - probably not the first things that come to mind when thinking of Jordan. Let the adventures begin! r BY: MARIEKE VERHOEVEN PHOTOS: MARIEKE VAN DER VELDEN

The famous forgotten city of Petra and Roman ruins in Jerash make Jordan a dream destination for explorers of ancient archeology. But it’s not just the history that’s worth discovering. Jordan also has some beautiful and challenging nature to offer. Because of its diverse landscape containing mountains, desert and valley, Jordan is the perfect place for some adventure travel. Marieke Verhoeven puts on her hiking boots and discovers Jordan’s adventurous side. First stop: Hiking in Petra Passing through the long and deep gorge that leads into the forgotten city of Petra, I can only imagine how the Swiss explorer Burckhardt must have felt when he discovered this archeological treasure in 1812. Built over 2,000 years ago by the Arab tribe of Nabateans, Petra is to this day no less than breathtaking. The ‘red rose city’, a four-hour drive south from Amman, owes much of its appeal to the awesome, multi-coloured sandstone mountains from which it was literally carved. Wandering through this lost city with its countless temples, tombs and other ancient buildings could keep me occupied for days. However, there’s more to discover at Jordan’s most famous attraction. ‘Are you up for a little adventure?’, guide Salem asks me with a mysterious smile. After a hesitant ‘yes’ he takes out a site map and points out a second, secret pathway to and from the city. This path starts on the north-east side of the city and is far from the main tourist track. It involves some serious rock climbing, but is easily manageable for a person with a normal fitness level, Salem assures me. I decide to go for it and before I know it, it feels like I’m in a movie scene from 127 Hours. The narrow path features several natural obstacles that have to be traversed and some are truly impressive. I’m glad Salem is here to keep me from getting stuck ‘in between a rock and a hard place’. He doesn’t just come

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in handy for some lifting and pulling. Salem says tourists do get lost. ‘They get confused by all the similar rock formations and wander off. Usually Bedouins (local nomads, ed.) find them after a day or two, dehydrated and exhausted,’ he says. Since this small gorge is also an active watercourse, it is highly inadvisable to travel through it from October to April. Water rushes down the gorge and crushes anything in its path. The huge rocks and other obstacles we encounter are proof of the enormous force of this flood. Luckily, during spring and summer this path is actually quite pleasant. The route lays in the shade for the most part, which is a nice change from the sweltering summer heat. And I must admit, all that scrambling over and squeezing through rocks does offer some beautiful scenery, as well as a few hidden Nabetean rock carvings. I feel like a modern day explorer, Mr Burckhardt would have been proud.

‘Local nomads find them after a day or two, dehydrated and exhausted.’ Second stop: desert safari in Wadi Rum Often described as the most beautiful desert in the Middle East, Wadi Rum is definitely a must-see when visiting Jordan. Not only to feel its overwhelming and silencing power, but also to explore this legendary desert. The area that was once the residence of British army officer T.E. Lawrence (better known as Lawrence of Arabia) offers plenty of opportunities for adventure. Camping under the stars, riding Arab horses, rock climbing and four-wheel drive safaris - it’s all possible if you have some time and money to spare. After a one-and-a-half hour drive from Petra I arrive just before sunset, the perfect time for a jeep safari. The early morning and late afternoon light are fairytale-esque, as well as being a photographer’s dream.

TRAVEL REPORT Since they know the area like the back of their hand, I decide to explore the desert with a local driver. Even though there’s no problem with renting your own four-wheel drive, you should only attempt this if you’re familiar with the terrain, the driver assures me. The soft sand is difficult to drive on and navigating through the desert is a whole different ball game. It’s a lot safer and easier to climb in the open back and let a professional drive. And I’m glad I did. Not only do I have to hold on firmly to stay seated, the view is also too good to be stuck behind the wheel. The valley has been inhabited by human cultures since prehistoric times, with many of them - including the Nabateans - leaving their mark in the form of rock paintings, graffiti and temples. Nowadays several Bedouin tribes inhabit Wadi Rum and the surrounding area. The colours of the sand, sky and rocks are incredible and it’s almost a shame that the sun is down before you know it. Luckily, the night time is not too shabby either. The Bedouin camp that I’m staying at is not as basic as I expected. The private tents are quite comfortable (I do check my bed thoroughly for scorpions and rattlesnakes) and they offer delicious local meals featuring mensaf (lamb, rice and pine nuts), humus and home-made bread. After dinner I take a walk just outside

The colours of the sand, sky and rocks are incredible.

FAST FACTS , Population: 6.2 million , Surface: 82.287 km2 (a little smaller than Portugal) , Bordering: Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Syria, Palestine and Israel , Landscape: divided in three major regions. The valley, with the Dead Sea at 400m below sea level as the lowest point in the world, the mountains (average height 1200m) and desert plateau (the largest but least inhabited part). , Environment: Jordan boasts several national parks and nature reserves. The government is, not least because of its growing water shortage, very concerned with the preservation of nature. The parks feature protected animals like the gazelle and oryx, as well as over 2,500 species of wild plants and ﬂowers. , Climate: varies from Mediterranean in the north west to a desert climate in the rest of the country. Summer temperatures can easily reach 40 to 45 degrees Celsius (100-115 degrees Fahrenheit).

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TRAVEL REPORT the camp to gaze at the star-studded sky. With hardly any artificial lights in sight, this is a once in a lifetime experience. Since the desert can get sizzling hot in summer and extremely cold in winter, the best periods to visit are early spring (March to May) and late autumn (October to November). But if you’re not afraid of a little heat and looking for the ultimate party, make sure to mark your calendar for 23 August 2012. On this date, the Distant Heat Festival will turn the valley into one huge dance floor under the stars. I know what I’m doing next summer.

Third stop: Canyoning in Wadi Mujib

HOW TO GET THERE FROM SCHIPHOL

4.5 hrs

A flight from Schiphol to Queen Alia Airport in Amman takes 4.5 hours. Destinations like Petra (3 hours south of Amman) and the Dead Sea (1.5 hours west of Amman) are easily reached by (rental) car. ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE

‘This is where the world ends and paradise begins,’ my guide tells me before entering Wadi Mujib. And he’s not lying. This nature reserve near the Dead Sea, 400 metres below sea level, making it the lowest nature reserve on earth, feels magical. The Wadi Mujib gorge houses spectacular sandstone cliffs and offers possibilities to hike, swim, slide and abseil right down the centre of them all. The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN), a project that promotes the biodiversity of Jordan, has different hiking and canyoning trips available. I decide to take the two-hour ‘classic’ trail, but there is also a half-day trip on offer. This one’s only for the real adventurers, since it includes some intense rock climbing and abseiling. That being said, the basic trail is pretty demanding as it is. Depending on the water level, I’m wading through some strong currents and climbing a few cliffs and waterfalls. Lightweight hiking shoes, a life jacket and sunscreen are essential for this trip. Hanging from a rope on one of the small but powerful waterfalls, I do wonder what on earth I’m doing here. However, arriving at the beautiful waterfall that marks the end of the trail is definitely rewarding. For the less adventurous types, there are also great hikes around the reserve. Some 400 recorded species of plants and 200 species of birds inhabit the area. And surprisingly enough, this reserve is still little-known by tourists or Jordanians, fellow canyoneer Hassan from Amman tells me: ‘Most of the city people head to the Dead Sea for holidays, nobody told us about this place.’ So if you need an active break from mass floating in the Dead Sea, head down to this still fairly unknown adventurer’s paradise.

#SPLJORDAN Got a valuable travel tip about Jordan? Twitter it with #spljordan and share it with the world. FOR MORE INFORMATION: VISITJORDAN.COM

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MORE ADVENTURE IN JORDAN Floating in the Dead Sea might be a unique –and healing – experience, but there’s also some less salty water to explore in Jordan. If you want to safely stick your head under water, go to the southern Red Sea coast for some world-class snorkelling and diving. While Egypt’s waters attract massive crowds, Jordan’s underwater scene is still a lot less known. The reefs off the coast of Aqaba are beautiful enough to rival their neighbour’s. From circling sharks and exotic fish to old shipwrecks and colourful corals, Jordan’s underwater world will satisfy even the most spoiled diver. In case you prefer land over sea, it’s also possible to explore Jordan by bike. Cycling your way across endless desert highways does require some serious fitness and determination. Not all roads are in the best shape and Jordan drivers are not used to bikers on the highway. Due to the heat, water and sunscreen are essential. At the same time, the desert views and open vistas are priceless. And you’ll definitely get respect and motivating honks from the locals.

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HOLLAND BOULEVARD The Netherlands at its best! ‘Just passing through’ doesn’t have to mean bypassing all that the Netherlands has to offer. Amsterdam Airport Schiphol serves up a slice of Dutch culture in one handy boulevard, offering everything from cocktails to kibbeling, from art to oxygen…

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EVERY YEAR, around 15 million people visit the Netherlands, so it must be doing something right. Holland Boulevard, located in the departure lounge between piers E and F, is designed to satisfy travellers’ appetites for all things Dutch. Whether you’re making your way home after an Amsterdam adventure and already experiencing withdrawal symptoms or are in transit with a connecting flight, a stroll through this diverse zone dedicated to Dutch culture will give you a crash course in all the country has to offer. It’s not all windmills, wooden shoes and weed, you know.

Strong stuff Travellers in search of a tipple can mix things up at the Bols Genever Experience from famous Dutch spirits brand Lucas Bols, which has been in business since 1575. Visitors can learn about the history of one of the Netherlands’ more potent exports and then sample their own cocktail creation at the bar. It’s worth a visit for the design alone, with its sleek glass and steel interior… but the cocktails are rather nice, too. If you need to line your stomach before or after, a visit to the Dutch Kitchen should do the trick. Here you can tuck into some popular treats from – yes, you guessed it – the Netherlands, such as poffertjes (mini pancakes) and kibbeling (chunks of fried, battered cod), and wash them down with a Dutch beer… or coffee, of course.

Culture vulture If you’re looking for something a little less intoxicating, take a free peek at original paintings by Dutch masters at the boulevard’s very own branch of the Rijksmuseum. Its somewhat larger sister is one of the most popular museums in Amsterdam, and this bite-sized version houses a permanent collection of ten Golden Age works, as well as playing host to regular exhibitions. Bookworms can devour Dutch literature – available in a whopping 29 languages – at Airport Library (the first of its kind in the world, apparently), which is also equipped with iPads on which guests can download music and films (unfortunately, you can’t take them away with you).

Keep your clothes on If relaxation is more your thing, the Back to Life massage zone provides a variety of rejuvenating services, including chair massages and a full-body aqua massage. Anyone not too keen on the idea of getting semi-naked in the departure lounge will be pleased to hear that none of these require the removal of clothing. They even have an oxygen bar for those in need of a top up… and if all the pampering proves exhausting, weary guests can lounge around in one of the ‘living room’ areas, complete with sofas and TVs. They are surprisingly cosy or, as the Dutch would say, gezellig.

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The ‘living room’ areas are surprisingly gezellig. Tree huts Passengers travelling with children can ensure that their little ones are suitably exhausted before boarding by taking them for a spin at Kids Forest, where they can go wild in the tree huts and silly on the slides. For tiny tots there’s the Babycare Lounge, with changing facilities and cots. And if all this isn’t enough, Holland Boulevard also boasts a casino, a Dutch design store and a chocolatier, too. Ok, so you can’t take a tour of Amsterdam’s world-famous canals, nor can you hop on a bike and go exploring; and other, less wholesome, offerings are notably absent, but Holland Boulevard certainly succeeds in its aim of offering travellers an authentic snapshot of the Netherlands. You might almost forget that you haven’t left the airport. MAP REFERENCE: Page 97 Find Holland Boulevard between Lounge 2 and 3.

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At the Back to Life massage you can keep your clothes on!

Bookworms can read Dutch literature, available in 29 languages at the Airport Library. More of a techie? Grab an iPad here!

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GETTING AROUND AT SCHIPHOL DEPARTURES AND LOUNGES

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READ US ONLINE NEXT MONTH!

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Le Coq Sportif: lecoqsportif.com

LEE: lee.com Levis: +32 (0)26 416004 Liu Jo Jeans: liujo.it Matinique: matinique.com

WHAT TO EXPECT IN NEXT MONTH’S ISSUE:

Michael Barnaart van Bergen: michaelbarnaartvanbergen.com Napapijri: napapijri.com

Dia de los muertos in Mexico Tequila, chicken legs, mariachi bands and dancing with the dead.

PINKO: pinko.it Puma: puma.com Rado: rado.com Replay: replay.it Rubber Duck: alltimefavourites.nl

The Canvas City Berlin’s art is raw, rough and touchably real. It’s living, breathing and pulsating in among the multicolour concrete. Ever heard of the banana trail? Read about it in our upcoming issue!

Samsøe Samsøe: +31 (0)6 42739876 Supertrash: supertrash.nl Surface to Air: surfacetoair.com Vans: vans.nl TRAVEL INFO: Linden & Barbosa Mövenpick Aruba

A day behind the scenes of Schiphol’s medical services!

Oficina Espanola de Turismo TMC World

Meet the Embera Indians in Panama

QR CODES EXPLAINED Visiting Vienna? There’s life beyond Mozartkugel and carriages. Bring your wetsuit! See you in November!

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THIS QR CODE WILL LOAD A MOVIE (SEE PAGE 50 FOR MORE INFO)

A QR (Quick Response) code is a unique barcode that acts as a shortcut to all sorts of useful and interesting information. To access this content you’ll need to scan the code using your smartphone via a QR-code reader – a simple app that’s available for free from many different software publishers.

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