complimentary copy
SEPTEMBER 2011 #1
Your window seat to the world
A breath of fresh air Right here at the airport
Gorilla Run London
fly a
kite in Egypt
of
Mystical Scotland
PO
IR
g fic ia l DAM Ma
Of
SCH R
AMSTEThe
And: The Buzz - Cees Nooteboom - Jonathan Franzen - Top Gun and other cool watches - The Netherlands in 12 highlights Stockholm style - Peek inside the cockpit - Behind the scenes of the luggage department - Travellers’ essentials
R T
city guides
az IPHOL in A e
Ghost Island
15x
letter Published monthly by
Wereldwijt Publishing BV
Dear traveller,
www.wereldwijt.com
Publishers
Schiphol Magazine Office
Wouter Wijtenburg
About 9 months ago we were waiting for a
Linda Korver
flight, pretty much like you are right now.
Cees van der Steenstraten
As avid travellers and former expatriate
schiphol magazine BV
publishers in Bali, Indonesia, we’ve spent
Triport 1 Building 1st floor Suite 1220
quite some time at international airports
Evert van de Beekstraat 27 1180 CL Schiphol +31 (0)20 4053145
Editor in Chief
Mathilde hoekstra mathilde.hoekstra@schipholmagazine.com
Deputy Editor
Linda korver linda.korver@schipholmagazine.com
Editorial Staff
Interns Contributors
michael whitener Catherine smyth
wouter wijtenburg +31 (0)6 21277730 stefan molleman stefan.molleman@schipholmagazine.com +31 (0)6 23125477 kris soehawan kris.soehawan@schipholmagazine.com
Finance Manager
advertising@schipholmagazine.com press@schipholmagazine.com Gerard koelmans gerard.koelmans@schipholmagazine.com
Amsterdam Airport Coordination Amsterdam Airport Distribution
be freely available throughout the entire
with our idea. Now this is it. A big ‘thank pen. And a very pleasant read to you. There are plenty of cool and inspiring destinations waiting to be discovered. Are you ready for take-off? We sure are!
Hanna van den Bos, Niels ‘t Hooft, Paolo Iuch,
wouter.wijtenburg@schipholmagazine.com
Press Enquiries
an inspiring glossy of our own that would
you’ to everyone who helped us make it hapton hendriks, Joe finch Meijer, nathalie otter
David Vermeulen, Henny van den Boogaart
Advertising
got us thinking: what if we were to make
we approached Amsterdam Airport Schiphol
Jonathan Franzen, Rene Mesman, Cees Nooteboom,
Sales
– didn’t yet have such a publication. This
airport? As soon as we set foot on Dutch soil
Mike Peek, Suzanne Reitsma, Arun Sood, Unlimited PR,
Sales Director
to us that Schiphol – the airport where
sarah.moore@schipholmagazine.com TIM HILHORST
Video
tional hubs in recent years, and it occurred
Sarah moore
tim.hilhorst@schipholmagazine.com
Photography & Illustration
airport magazines appear at several interna-
our journeys nearly always begin and end Karen Loughrey karen.loughrey@schipholmagazine.com
Art Director
shopping, eating and reading. We’ve noticed
Janneke Voorn, Schiphol press department GSA Facilitaire Diensten
Schiphol Magazine is printed by:
www.grafius.nl info@grafius.nl +31 (0) 88 00 19 561
Schiphol Magazine is printed on:
© Schiphol Magazine BV 2011 Schiphol Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Schiphol Magazine or its publishers. Schiphol Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content.
Wouter Wijtenburg & Linda Korver Founders Schiphol Magazine
contents
60 34 TRAVEL REPORTS
34
Detoxification Zürich, Switzerland
40
REVIEWS
15x City Guides
Departure: AMS Destination: Unknown
47
18
City report
Sullivan’s list
Gorilla Run
15
5 mobile apps
16
Tunes of the month
17
What’s on the box?
32
Must-reads
33
Games
For your convenience
Food for your iPod
London, Great Britain
60
Off the beaten track
The Ghost Island North Uist, Scotland
84
Breaking Bad and other addictions
Recommended by our editorial staff
Body and mind
Kiteboarding in the desert El Gouna, Egypt
Toys for boys
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74
SHOPPING
18
First up is the security check! 50 84
Sure you didn’t forget anything? Checklist!
INTERVIEWS
28
On the move!
68
The suitcase One man’s essentials uncovered
TRIVIA
10
The buzz
55
Too cool for school
56
Mini-quiz: Enter the cockpit
70
Checkin’ in
Breaking news, scoops and nice-to-knows
Extending that holiday feeling
Oooh, what does this button do?
12 Dutch highlights
FASHION
74
What to wear
82
IWC’s Top Gun
83
Back to nature
8
89
A traveller’s journey
Stockholm style
And other cool watches
With these brawny boots
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SCHIPHOL
50
Behind the scenes
89
A breath of fresh air
94
Mapping it
Follow your suitcase after check-in
Airport Park
How to get around
LITERATURE
25
Nomad’s Hotel
57
Sneak Peek
Travel writing by Cees Nooteboom
Jonathan Franzen’s Freedom
the buzz
Sky-high swim You’ll need a head for heights if you fancy taking a dip at the Marina Bay Sands Hotel. This luxury development features a 150m-long rooftop infinity pool, situated almost 200m above Singapore. Swimming to the edge isn’t as terrifying as it looks; beyond the infinity drop the pool has a large catchment area where the used water is collected and pumped back in. As long as three Olympic-sized swimming pools, it adds a whole new meaning to the phrase ‘I’m going to do a few lengths before breakfast’.
ideas take flight
Deep fat flying source: klm.com
Tickle your fancy? ‘Relaxation’ is possibly one of the last words most people associate with tickling, but that’s how the Cosquillearte (translated as ‘tickle yourself’ or ‘tickle art’) spa in Madrid, claiming to be the first of its kind in the world, describes its ‘tickle therapy’ treatments. Clients lie down on a massage table where they are tickled, first with fingertips, then with a feather, for up to an hour. The level of tickling is adjusted to suit each client’s needs. Don’t laugh – it’s for real. source: time.com
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time travel source: ttgdigital.com
Eating more chips could go some way towards saving the planet. Starting this month, Dutch airline KLM will fuel some of its planes with biofuel. The airline was the first to run a commercial flight using biokerosene; that biofuel was made from used cooking oil, but there are countless
options available. More than 200 KLM flights between Amsterdam and Paris will operate partly on biokerosene. The introduction of the new fuel is a step towards a more sustainable airline industry.
Anyone planning a trip to Samoa around New Year’s Eve will get a shorter break than they bargained for. The island, situated about halfway between Hawaii and Australia, will switch time zones at the end of the year. The move is designed to facilitate business with Australia and New Zealand,
its biggest trading partners. Samoa is currently 21 hours behind Sydney, but on 29 December, the country will switch to the west side of the international date line, becoming three hours ahead of the Australian city. Samoans will lose one day – going to bed on the 29th and waking up on the 31st.
Got a genius idea for a project but no funding? Describing itself as ‘the largest funding platform for creative projects in the world’, Kickstarter offers creators the chance to get their projects off the ground. The concept, dubbed ‘crowdfunding’, encompasses all sorts of creative endeavours, including film, music, art, design, technology, publishing and food. After approval from Kickstarter, projects are listed on the site where investors can pledge funds to make it a reality. In return, they are offered anything from products to a simple sense of satisfaction. Projects must achieve 100% of their required funding, or no money changes hands. Since its inception in 2009, projects have attracted nearly €30 million. kickstarter.com
the buzz
cool as ice The ICEHOTEL in Jukkasjärvi, Sweden, is the world’s biggest hotel made entirely from snow and ice. Built using 1,000 tonnes of crystalclear ice from the Torne River, together with 30,000 tonnes of ‘snice’ – a mixture of snow and ice used to strengthen the structure – the ICEHOTEL is a renowned centre of architecture and design. Guests generally spend one night ‘on ice’ – wearing thermal clothing, inside a sleeping bag, on a mattress covered with reindeer hides – and the remainder of their stay in the hotel’s warm accommodation. Rooms are available from December until mid-April, when the structure slowly melts back into the river from whence it came. Photo: Ben Nilsson/Big Ben Productions
growing pains source: scienceray.com
In order to achieve warrior status within the Brazilian Satere-Mawé tribe, young men must undergo an excruciating initiation ceremony. Would-be warriors don a pair of gloves containing more than 30
bullet ants – so-called because their sting is comparable to being shot by a bullet – for ten minutes. Participants must refrain from screaming or showing any signs of ‘weakness’ during the ordeal.
The pain of the stings lasts for 24 hours, and they don’t just have to do this once; the ceremony is repeated a further 20 times over several months before the initiation is complete.
Snore patrol Tired of being kept awake by your partner’s snoring? Never fear – Crowne Plaza has declared war on nighttime noisemakers by trialling ‘snore absorption’ rooms in ten of its hotels in Europe and the Middle East. Features of the room include a sound-absorbing headboard, an anti-snore pillow and a white-noise machine to help long-suffering partners get a good night’s sleep. Not satisfied with simple in-room measures, the company has gone one step further and introduced ‘snore monitors’ in several of its UK locations to patrol designated ‘quiet zones’ and wake up anyone considered to be disturbing the peace.
Muscle Museum A museum dedicated to Arnold Schwarzenegger has opened in Austria. The museum is housed in Schwarzenegger’s childhood home in the village of Thal. The movie star-turnedgovernor lived there from his birth in 1947 until 1966 when he left to follow his dream of winning the Mr. Universe contest. Exhibits in the house, which had no electricity or run-
ning water, include his childhood bed, his first dumb-bells and movie memorabilia such as a motorbike from one of the Terminator films and a sword from Conan the Barbarian.
anti sand Sandy sandwiches could be a thing of the past thanks to a new mat designed to keep sand firmly on the beach. The Sandless Beach Mat features a one-way filter that allows sand to instantly pass through and prevents it from finding its way back. The material, ‘patented polyurethane’, was originally developed for use in the military to minimise dust when helicopters were taking off and landing. The consumer version, priced at around €50, also eliminates dust, dirt and water, ensuring good, clean fun at the beach. source: metro.co.uk
source: bbc.co.uk
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the buzz
mobile
ADVERTORIAL
launch of ‘Internet op Reis’* Would you like to e-mail, ping and share photos on Facebook without worrying about roaming tariffs? The Vodafone Internet Abroad daily bundle* lets you use internet on your mobile phone in 42 countries for just €2 a day (up to 35MB/day). Here are some tips to help you keep costs down when accessing the internet on your mobile from abroad: 1.
Choose the Internet Abroad daily bundle
2.
Turn off the automatic e-mail and apps update functions
3.
Only install apps when connected to WiFi internet
4.
Text rate + country name to 433 (free of charge) to find out the local tariffs
5.
Remember: streaming video and audio uses a lot of data
6.
Upload your photos to Facebook: it’s less expensive than emailing them to all your friends
7.
Use the data calculator on vodafone.nl/buitenland. Or, if you have a BlackBerry, use the Mobile Data Alerter app to find out how much data you’re using
8.
To receive calls and text economically in 42 countries, choose the Vodafone Passport
*Available to Dutch customers only
Global grid� lock? source: discovery.com
nuclear
excursion source: bbc.co.uk
There are now more than a billion cars on the road. According to automotive trade journal Ward’s, which looked at the number of vehicle registrations and historical trends, the total passed one billion some time last year. The biggest growth market is China. The country currently has a total of 78 million vehicles, but an ownership rate of just 1 per 17.2 people. If it were to reach the US ownership rate of 1 car for every 1.3 people, the country would have 1 billion vehicles all by itself.
The Philippines’ only nuclear power plant has opened its doors to tourists, nearly 30 years after it was built. Visitors needn’t worry about the risks of radiation, because the plant has never been used. The plant, built in 1986, cost more than €1.4 billion to build. Shortly after completion its main backer,
frequent flyer apps In the air or on the tarmac, these apps are essential for anyone regularly on the go. By: Tim Hilhorst
Schiphol App (free) Receive up-to-date, personalised travel information via push notification with this app from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. It also contains everything you need to know about the airport.
SpeechTrans (€14) Ever find yourself lost for words in the most inconvenient of places? SpeechTrans recognises your native tongue, translates what you say into a host of different languages and then recites it back to you.
Evernote (free) Don’t go anywhere without your to-do list. Evernote functions as a makeshift clipboard storing your notes, photos and audio. Online synchronization ensures you can access your info on any device anywhere.
Spots (€0.70) A regularly updated WiFi hotspot finder that works offline. With a database of almost half a million hotspots worldwide the app will save you from encountering expensive roaming charges abroad.
President Ferdinand Marcos, was pushed from power in the Philippines’ first People Power Revolution, and his successor decided that its safety could not be guaranteed. Tourists can go right to the heart of the complex to the reactor itself, where the control rods are still wrapped in their plastic packaging.
Currency (free) A does-what-it-says-onthe-box deal. Currency is an up-to-date currency calculator that will give you rates and conversions for hundreds of currencies.
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reviewed
tunes of the month By: Tim hilhorst
Beats, breaks, bumps and bass drops…sometimes it gets confusing. Plug in and chill out; we’ll sift through the latest releases and let you know whether to spin…or bin.
Hot sauce Committee Part Two Beastie Boys Along with Jordan’s Airs, Chuck’s Taylors, Geri’s platforms and C+C’s Music Factory the Beastie Boys are as synonymous with the ’90s as can be. This summer the boys, now men, return with the long awaited release of Hot Sauce Committee Part Two. The dynamic trio’s vibrant old-school sounds are back, and as pleasantly nostalgic and flippantly fun as ever. Interesting samples with reverberating vocals make up many of the songs including standouts Make Some Noise and collaboration Too Many Rappers with Nas. An eclectic journey of time and music that proves our boys are still ‘Rock[ing] the house till the break of dawn’. EMI 2011
F*** Me I’m Famous: Ibiza Mix 2011
Ukulele Songs Eddie Vedder Eddie Vedder once again strums chords of life, love and loss on his new solo album Ukulele Songs. This time with just a ukulele on his back and his heart on his sleeve he reminds us of the ease with which he can deliver powerful messages in unusual ways. The album is reminiscent of the heartfelt music we heard on his last album Into The Wild. At times the ukulele, with its inherent limitations apparent, is a little wearing. The angsty lyrics might have been better accompanied by a guitar, but it’s heaven to hear the folky side of Eddie without the blanket of noise covering his words. Universal 2011
Cathy & David Guetta Imagine an overcrowded club filled with drunk post-teenyboppers and greasy-haired machos looking for love. What music is playing you ask. Most definitely David Guetta’s latest installment of his Ibiza Mix. The record is a compilation of the French DJ’s favorite summer/club songs; monotonous and antiquated in two words. The first track, Where Them Girls At, sets the tone for the rest of the album perfectly: a predictable sample laced with a mediocre vocal by Flow Rida that sounds like a carbon copy of every other Guetta song. A satisfying experience when you’re drunk, or 12, but don’t expect to be pleasantly surprised or otherwise stimulated. EMI 2011
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This month’s
The Beastie Boys never expected their sound to go big. With over 25 years in the business the band is one of the longest-lived hip-hop acts and has notched up more than 40 million record sales worldwide. Oddly enough the group decided on the name simply because it sounded silly and they never thought the band would go places. Later they agreed the name would become a backronym for ‘Boys Entering Anarchistic States Toward Internal Excellence’. Strangely enough the backronym is followed by another, seemingly redundant, ‘boys’.
top spotify tunes in the netherlands 1
moves like jagger Maroon 5
2
Danza Kuduro Don Omar
3
Give me everything Pitbull feat. Ne-Yo, Afrojack & Nayer
4
plage Crystal Fighters
5
party rock anthem LMFAO
reviewed
WHAT’S ON THE BOX?
Quotes
By: Tim hilhorst
Cinephile at heart? No time to sort through the pulp, yet still want to keep up? From mid-air to mid-traffic and from overhead projector to iPad, we’ll help you fill those precious moments with the best in TV and film.
2
1
‘The world ended. Didn’t you get the memo?’
2
‘What good is being an outlaw when you have responsibilities?’
3
‘You can’t be half a gangster Nucky, not anymore.’
breaking bad season 3 available: now
1
In season one, high school chemistry teacher Walter White (Bryan Cranston) was forced to reconcile with death after an untimely cancer diagnosis. The thought of leaving behind nothing for his family forced him to take drastic action and so he recruited one of his less-than-perfect ex-students to help him make and sell methamphetamines. The latest season to hit shelves sees Mr. White travel an emotional roller coaster of uncertainty as he juggles his role as father, caregiver and role model by day with his gangster-drug-manufacturing status by night.
The Walking Dead available: now Cue rabid zombie chasing a stickfigure blonde into the alley of death where ‘Girl 1’ makes a silly decision that ultimately destroys her. We hate zombie clichés too, but this one’s different – promise. The new AMC show The Walking Dead is, surprisingly enough, filmed almost entirely in broad daylight. The documentarylike realism and grainy quality added to an understatedly capable cast and terrifyingly realistic zombies make for a groundbreaking show. The narrative follows sheriff Grimes through a balanced mix of interpersonal drama and moments of nail-biting suspense all in order to reconnect with his family and survive. Interesting Fact: Throughout the whole season, the word ‘zombie’ is never mentioned once. Instead, the undead are referred to as ‘geeks’, ‘walkers’ and ‘test subjects’.
Interesting Fact: When the characters in the show smoke meth what they are actually smoking is sugar or rock candy. (Bill Clinton style, of course.)
3
Boardwalk Empire available: 19 September 2011 The new HBO series Boardwalk Empire, directed by Martin Scorsese, is a classic tale of disobedience, greed and gangster life during the dawn of the prohibition movement in Atlantic City. Treasurer Enoch ‘Nucky’ Thompson (Steve Buscemi) is part well-liked politician, part socialite and overwhelming part gangster. From historical accuracy and awesome set design, to the costumes and the stellar cast this big-budget series is planned to perfection. At times the calm borders on dullness, but the bigger picture generates a show that perhaps constitutes the most worthwhile television occasion of the year. Interesting Fact: The character of Nucky Thompson is based on a real life ‘Nucky’ who looked nothing like Steve Buscemi, but more closely resembles Tony Soprano.
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checklist By: Tim hilhorst
Forgotten something essential? We’ve prepared a checklist packed with the coolest stuff around so you can ensure you’re fully equipped for your trip.
Out of the woods
Scale up
Iconic sunglasses made from all sorts of exotic hardwood - by Shwood
Check the weight of your bag before you check-in to avoid extra charges - by Balanzza
Approx. €95 shwoodshop.com
Approx. €18 bluewaterphotostore.com
Portable power
Underwater adventure
Write, record, replay
Portable charging module - by Callpod
Underwater camera and goggle combination - by Liquid Image
4GB or 8GB smartpen that plays the audio it recorded as you took notes - by Livescribe
Approx. €50 at the airport or callpod.com
Approx. €70.50 liquidimageco.com
Approx. €104 livescribe.com
Media on the move
Steady snaps
Keep track
Slingbox connects your TV to other media devices anywhere via the internet - by Sling Media
A range of flexible tripods for iPod, iPad, iPhone, digital SLRs and more - by Joby
A tracking clip you can attach to anything and then track via the internet - by Garmin
Approx. €210 amazon.com
Approx. €20-€50 joby.com
Approx. €142 buy.garmin.com
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shopping
Bright baggage A fluorescent travel trolley - by Balenciaga Approx: â‚Ź2745 world.balenciaga.com
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Pro on the go
Puzzling magnets
Travel in style
Camera too heavy to travel with? Bring your lenses and mount them on your iPhone 4
Magnetic balls that stick together to make geometric shapes - by Buckyballs
Luxury bag - by Marc Jacobs
Approx. €175 photojojo.com/store
Approx. €25 getbuckyballs.com
Approx. €908 marcjacobs.com
Indestructible
Monkeying around
Stay on track
This digital camera is shockproof, waterproof and 100kg crushproof - by Olympus
A plush monkey that kids can play hide and seek with
A watch complete with GPS (powered by TomTom) - by Nike
Approx. €299 at the airport or olympus.com
Approx. €25 thinkgeek.com
Approx. €140 store.nike.com/us/en_us/
Wireless power
Full metal jacket
Chic shades
This wireless power mat charges up to three devices at once - by Powermat
Titanium watch - by Oakley
Women’s sunglasses - by Warby Parker
Approx. €42 powermat.com
Aprrox. €6250 oakley.com
Approx. €67.50 warbyparker.com
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shopping
A third dimension A 3D version of the Nintendo DS Approx. â‚Ź176 nintendo.com/3ds
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shopping
Shhh...
Wake up call
Supermodel sandals
Noise-cancelling headphones - by Bose
Alarm clock dock for iPhone and iPod by Areaware
A range of sandals designed by Heidi Klum by Birkenstock
Approx. €245 at the airport or bose.com
Approx. €28.50 switchmodern.com
Approx. €164 amazon.com
Hip hips
Glasses-free 3D
Smooth on the move
Swimming Shorts - by Vilebrequin
3D portable camera that requires no glasses - by Sony
A foldable credit-card-sized razor and mirror - by Carzor
Approx. €150 vilebrequinonlinestore.com (US)
Approx. €1050 store.sony.com
Approx. €9 infmetry.com
Take a load off
Putty in their hands
Sun, sand and style
Klettersack,; the ultimate travel companion, workmate or pack mule - by TOPO DESIGNS
Keep the kids busy with Science Putty - by the Science Museum
Stylish hat - by Kangol
Approx. €97 topodesigns.com
Approx. €7 sciencemuseumshop.co.uk
Approx. €33 kangol.com
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literature
NOMAD’S HOTEL Travels in Time and Space By Cees Nooteboom
Nomad’s Hotel is a collection of the finest travel pieces by award-winning Dutch writer Cees Nooteboom. In this excerpt, Cees introduces the book by taking the reader back to the point at which his lifelong journey began... illustration: Nathalie otter
One fine day, and I know how romantic and old-fashioned that sounds, but it is what happened in my case, I packed a rucksack, took leave of my mother and caught the train to Breda. An hour later – you know how small the Netherlands is – I was standing at the side of the road on the Belgian border sticking my thumb in the air, and I have never really stopped since. At that time any meditative thought, any metaphysical pretension was foreign to me, those sorts of things only come later, rather in the way a Tibetan prayer wheel functions in fact, with the movement preceding the thought. To put it in a different way, I never again stopped moving around, and gradually I began to think while doing it, and you could, if you wished, call this thinking meditation.
Two things are significant here: anyone who is constantly travelling is always somewhere else, and therefore always absent. This holds good for oneself, and it holds good for the others, the friends; for although it is true that you are ‘somewhere else’, and that, consequently,
‘Anyone who is constantly travelling is always somewhere else’ there is somewhere you are not, there is one place where you are constantly, all the time, namely with ‘yourself’. And no matter how simple it sounds, it does take a long time before you
become fully aware of this. For there is always the incomprehension of the ‘others’ to contend with. How many times did I have to hear Pascal’s dictum, ‘the root of the world’s misfortune lies in the fact that human beings are unable to remain in one room for twenty four hours’, before it began to dawn on me that, on the contrary, I was the one who was always at home, namely with myself. But that travelling self was repeatedly confronted by the stay-at-homes’ questions, with one question recurring with monotonous regularity at each interview, so much so that I have lost count of all the fabrications with which I replied. ‘Why do you travel, why do you travel so much?’, followed by (accusingly), ‘Are you running away from something?’, by which they meant and mean,b
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literature running away from yourself, which for me conjures up visions of a demonic, pathetic, tortured self, forever driving me back into the desert or on to the high seas. The true answer, having to do with learning and contemplation, with curiosity and perplexity, is just not spectacular enough. In 1993 I wrote an introduction to a little book called De Koning van Suriname (The King of Surinam). It contains my earliest traveller’s tales, written in the 1950s, when I was a seaman, plying the route to Surinam, on the north-east coast of South America. My introduction begins. ‘Travelling, too, is something...’
‘No matter how solitary a traveller you are you will always be surrounded by others’ Travelling, too, is something you have to learn. It is a constant transaction with others in the course of which you are simultaneously alone. And therein lies the paradox: you journey alone in a world which is controlled by others. It is they who own the boarding house where you want a room, they who decide whether there is space for you on the plane that only goes once a week, it is they who are poorer than you and can benefit from you, they who are more powerful because they can refuse a stamp or document. They speak in tongues you cannot comprehend, stand next to you on a ferry or sit next to you on the bus, they sell you food at the market and send you in the right or wrong direction, sometimes they are dangerous, but usually they are not, and all this has to be learned: what you should do, what you should not do and what you should never do. You have to learn how to deal with their drunkenness and yours; you have to be able to recognise a gesture and a glance, for no matter how solitary a traveller you are you will always be surrounded by others; by their expressions, their overtures, their disdain, their expectations. And every place is different, and nowhere does it resemble what you were accustomed to in the country you come from. That slow process of learning the things I would need later on, in Burma and Mali, Iran and Peru, began then. Not that I was aware of it in those days, I was far too busy keeping myself afloat in a sea of new impressions. I had no time to think about myself, I travelled and wrote like someone who could not yet travel and write. All I could do was observe, and then attempt to circle around what I saw with words. I had no theories about the world with which to test the confusing reality all about me, and everything I could not yet do is manifest in these stories. Extracted from NOMAD’S HOTEL by Cees Nooteboom. Published by Vintage, 2007. Copyright © Cees Nooteboom 2006. English translation copyright © Ann Kelland 2006.
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Cees Nooteboom, 78, is a renowned Dutch author and poet whose travel writing has earned him worldwide acclaim. He has won numerous awards for both his fiction and travelogues, including the prestigious P.C. Hooft Prize and the Prijs der Nederlandse Letteren – the most important literary award in the Dutch-speaking world. Cees, named one of the ‘ten best travel writers of the century’ by Newsweek, lives in Amsterdam. Photo: Simone Sassen
on the
move
More than 100,000 passengers pass through Amsterdam Airport Schiphol every day. Three travellers took the time to tell Schiphol Magazine about their journeys. By: Karen Loughrey Photos: Joe Finch Meijer 28
SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.com
interview
Lincoln Benbow (32) From: Melbourne, Australia Profession: Works in recruitment
In transit from Melbourne on his way to Split, Croatia
‘I’m on a stopover. I flew from Melbourne to Kuala Lumpur and now I’m going to Croatia for a holiday with my friends. I’ve been travelling for about 22 hours now. Travelling is awesome – I do it all the time. You get to come to some cool places like this!’
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‘I’ve just come back from my third trip to Thailand, I love it there. I like to travel because I like to explore the world and relax. The only thing I don’t like is the waiting, and I find it difficult to sleep on the aeroplane. Before flying home we had to go from Koh Samui to Bangkok by bus...it took 20 hours!’
Sylvia Hidayat (22)
From: Amsterdam, the Netherlands Profession: Social worker in a psychiatric hospital Just arrived from Thailand 30
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INTERVIEW
Mark Meijer (45)
From: Deventer, the Netherlands Profession: Product manager in the food ingredients industry Just arrived from Zagreb, Croatia
‘I left Zagreb in Croatia this morning; I was only there for one night. I had business there – selling chocolate to an ice-cream factory. I travel almost every week, for around two days, and enjoy it very much. If I had to stay in the office all week it would drive me crazy.’
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reviewed
By: karen loughrey
recommended
Who, or why, or which, or what…?
A Global Gazeteer of the Instructive & Strange
John Oldale Discover why it’s illegal to kiss on trains in France, why piranhas aren’t as dangerous as you think and what the odds of dying while playing Russian Roulette really are. Featuring more than 2,000 stories and facts about history, travel, politics and wildlife from across the globe, alongside 1,000 accompanying illustrations and images, this cornucopia of the bizarre claims that it will ‘change the way you see the world forever’. And if it doesn’t manage that, it will at least give you something to talk about down the pub. Published by: Penguin (Hardcover) Available: Now Price: Approx. €22
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Photo: Sigrid Estrada
must reads
I’m Feeling Lucky The Confessions of Google Employee Number 59
Douglas Edwards Douglas Edwards was Google’s 59th employee and the company’s first director of marketing and brand management, joining just 18 months after its creation. This accessible memoir of his employment between 1999 and 2005 takes the reader inside the infamous ‘Googleplex’ where employees are offered everything from dinner to dentists, and from movie nights to massages. Don’t expect any groundbreaking revelations of Google’s secrets or future plans; this is a personal account from a man who at times portrays himself as a somewhat insecure outsider, as he tries to unlearn everything that he’d learnt before. It does, however, offer some fascinating, and at times shocking, insights and anecdotes about the meteoric rise of the internet giant. Published by: Allen Lane (Hardcover) Available: Now RRP: Approx. €22
Inspired
the sense of an ending Julian Barnes Tony Webster and his group meet Adrian Finn at school and together they navigate the awkward terrain of adolescence. Adrian is quieter, and certainly more intelligent, than the rest, but they form a bond that they swear will last a lifetime. Then Adrian’s story takes a tragic turn. Tony tries his best to move on and becomes a middleaged man with a middleof-the-road existence that he seems to be at peace with. But when a letter arrives from a solicitor it becomes increasingly apparent that his memories of his youth aren’t quite as accurate, nor complete, as he believed... A short, fascinating novel examining the way in which we edit and erase our memories, Booker-longlisted The Sense of an Ending further cements Barnes’s status as one of today’s top British talents.
Published by: Jonathan Cape (Hardcover) Available: Now RRP: Approx. €15
Jean Kwok is a ChineseAmerican author living in the Netherlands. Her debut novel, Girl In Translation, about a young girl who emigrates from Hong Kong to the squalor of Brooklyn, is an international bestseller. Jean shares her top five favourite novels with Schiphol Magazine:
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The Blind Assassin Margaret Atwood
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The Giant’s House Elizabeth McCracken
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Never Let Me Go Kazuo Ishiguro
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Pride and Prejudice Jane Austen
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The Secret History Donna Tartt
In 1939, Ernest Vincent Wright published a novel that didn’t contain a single letter ‘e’. The self-published book, entitled Gadsby: A Story of Over 50,000 Words Without Using the Letter “E”, didn’t make a splash on the literary scene at the time of publication, but has since become a collector’s item among fans of so-called ‘restrained fiction’. The plot revolves around the revitalisation of Branton Hills, a dying fictional city that is saved by Gadsby, the protagonist, and his youth army. Vincent Wright said that the hardest part of the enterprise was avoiding the past tense of verbs, most of which end with ‘-ed’.
reviewed
Toys for boys
Superbrothers: and girls!
By: Niels Peuchen
Sword & Sworcery EP iPod Touch, iPhone, iPad If you love a quick game on your iPhone or iPad, then Superbrothers: Sword & Sworcery EP by Capybara Games might not be the game for you. It’s an adventure game that involves puzzles, a serious story and an inviting atmosphere. Rough around its nostalgically pixilated edges and embellished by Jim Guthrie’s soundtrack the game will swallow you whole.
God of War: Chains of Olympus
Released: 2011 Price: Approx. €2-€4
PSP
The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time nintendo 3ds Thirteen years after the original, the classic adventure game The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time, is released for the Nintendo 3DS. In this installment the young Link again travels through a series of dungeons to stop arch-nemesis Ganondorf. The re-release is visually enhanced and its gameplay is improved, but at times the game feels dated. Only pay full price if you’ve never played the original. Released: 2011 Price: Approx. €45
For next to nothing you too can be the owner of possibly one of the best PSP games ever: God of War: Chains of Olympus. As with Zelda you scout out new areas and battle a host of evil nemeses, however the God of War series offers heartier battles and much more blood and gore. The game has an interesting Greek mythology theme, but it’s a pity that it’s over in about six hours. Released: 2008 Price: Approx. €20
Women rarely attract much attention in the gaming world, but Canadian Jade Raymond is an exception to the rule. As a producer she was responsible for the Assassin’s Creed series and is currently leading Toronto’s Ubisoft production studio.
Plants vs. Zombies iPod Touch, iPhone, iPad If Plants vs. Zombies proves one thing it’s that you can destroy zombies in less than conventional ways. By placing pea-shooting plants in strategic locations around your garden you ensure that the undead won’t reach your house. As the game progresses more plants and weapons become available, keeping it interesting. A recent update added a host of mini-games for increased and much needed variation.
Picross 3D Nintendo DS What you do when you’re playing Picross 3D, based on the Japanese picture puzzle, can only be described as ‘sculpting’. By determining which numbers to remove you are slowly chipping away at the massive block these numbers sit on. The result of all this chipping: a charming 3D figurine. On a long trip to the other side of the world this game might prove a little monotonous, but it certainly offers value for money. Puzzle books are considerably cheaper, but they don’t feature the third dimension. Released: 2010 Price: Approx. €30
bestsellers 1
Call of Duty: Black Ops
Xbox 360, PlayStation 3, Windows In the seventh installment of Call of Duty shooting and being shot at are once again central themes. The game employs the Cold War as a background story.
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Released: 2010 Price: Approx. €2-€6
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Wii Party
Wii A platform game combined with many short mini-games; after many Mario Party games Nintendo manages to finally revitalise the concept.
Pro Cycling Manager 2011
Windows Cyanide’s Pro Cycling Manager is the ultimate cycling-simulator. Next to the big circuits the game also includes many lesser-known cycle routes.
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City Report
Detoxing
in Zürich
Snap, crackle, pop, scratch! That’s the sound of a minty exfoliating paste being rubbed onto your body by a Swiss goddess... Zap yourself to Zürich – we give it a serene seal of approval. By: Tim Hilhorst
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Showered by warm spring water taken directly from the Alps at my doorstep, I wake to a new self I should have been introduced to long ago. Zürich does for its visitors what ginger root did for high maintenance ladies: detoxification. The site of this transformative experience is tucked away neatly on a hill between the beautiful Schlosse Sihlberg (Sihlberg Castle) and Google’s Zürich offices. Thermalbad & Spa isn’t one of those new age places where they feed you the roots of South East Asian plants, make you drink cups of unidentified liquid or give massages that feel more like torture than tickle — it’s all about classic relaxation and rejuvenation here. The relatively new establishment is located within the remains of a former Hürliman beer brewery. The structure’s modern exterior couldn’t be in steeper contrast to the interior, with its century-old architecture and the remainders of a brewery that’s now owned by Carlsberg.
Cherry on top The spa’s baths are powered by one of Zürich’s two thermal spas underneath the facility. The naturally occurring warm water ranging from 35-41C is believed to have healing properties. The idea is that when water crosses ‘strata’ - or layers of rock - on its way to the surface, it picks up healing minerals and geothermal energy. Few scientific studies can actually attest to these healing powers, but even the World Health Organisation agrees that thermal baths are great for pain relief, joint mobility and relaxation.
Spas treat rheumatism, wounds, muscle aches and overindulgence in food Wandering through the Gothic maze of mystic lounge and steam rooms, heated floors and pools of fresh spring water seems daunting at first, but in Darwinian fashion – trust me – you will adapt! After receiving your towel and matching bathrobe, the staff will suggest 36
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travel report
the traditional ‘Irish Roman Spa Ritual’ which entails a series of consecutive baths and steams that will turn even the burliest of men to a relaxed goo (that is if you can figure out the signage, which is completely in German). The panoramic view of the city from the infinity pool on the roof of the facility is the cherry on top of a very chocolatey Swiss cake. The spa requires you to wear a bathing suit in all areas, and even though not many will object to this, it’s a nod to the moral austerity seen throughout most of Zürich.
See & be seen The abundance of men in the mixed-sex spa signals that the time of firm handshakes, solemn looks and frayed edges is over for our chromosomally mismatched sex. Metrosexuality has won and Zürich is at the forefront of the movement. If Roman warriors were getting pampered here 1,700 years ago who are we to challenge their manhood? The Egyptians and Babylonians were the first to discover the potential of waters and oils because they were convinced that in order to reach another spiritual plane you had to be clean and radiant. The Greeks, however, were the first to set up bathing rituals, which the Romans eventually improved and Zürich has since perfected. The Romans used spas to treat rheumatism, muscle aches and wounds from battle but, unsurprisingly, it helped for overindulgence in food too. Nowadays most of Zürich’s baths and ‘lidos’ are filled with the noveau-riche who come ‘to see and be seen’. These hip ‘hangs’ are located around Lake Zürich where it is quickly apparent that life in the city is lived in, around and on the water they adore so much.
Silicon Valley Swans and their cygnets are teased by children cooling off in the crystal clear water while parents and colleagues sip on glasses of afternoon sin. There are no clandestine groups of teens hanging by the riverside littering the lake with half-litre cans of brightly coloured energy drink and funny smelling cigarettes, just sets of office cohorts utilising their lunch break for a quick energising swim
smaragdbad
Did you know that...? and tour guides passing by to sip the water to prove just how clean Lake Zürich really is. Zürich’s regenerative properties have long been held in high esteem. And while the Silicon Valley ladies are having 24K gold slathered on their faces, Israeli spa-goers are having snakes crawl all over them and New Yorkers are applying nightingale excrement, Zürich remains more conventional in its treatments. Options are varied, depending on how many Francs you’re willing to drop. The lakeside Seebad Enge offers classic massages as well as sports and shiatsu varieties at relatively cheap prices. Thermalbad & Spa offers herbal stamp and exfoliating brush massages that are a little more expensive, but definitely worth the proverbial green. For a considerably higher amount you can be wined and dined at the idyllic Dolder Grand hotel which offers an entire ‘detox’ package that includes five nights in the hillside hotel, a nutrition plan, a coach, a fitness and relaxation schedule, as well as body rituals and massages.
Zürich has 1,200 public water fountains, more than any other city in the world. Albert Einstein had to take the entrance exam to get into the Federal Institute of Technology – which has produced 31 Nobel laureates – twice! The Swiss presidency rotates every year and is currently held by a woman. The Swiss cabinet has more women than men even though they did not receive suffrage until 1971. Zürich Zoo imported a ‘small’ rainforest from Madagascar and planted it in their zoo in an 11,000m2 hangar. Everyone in Switzerland is allowed bear arms. The first factory in Zürich didn’t produce chocolate, watches or cheese, but silk.
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Zürich’s peculiar affinity with its water doesn’t stop inside the spas though. In 1837 Zürich opened its first so-called lido, before the Hauptbahnhoffe (main station), the Bahnhoffstrasse or even the city’s stock exchange were founded. Now the city has more than 40 of these river- and lakeside swimming facilities ranging from women-only and sports-nut recovery pools, to wellness and party lidos that transform into hip waterside bars.
SPA PHOTOS COURTESY OF THERMALBAD & SPA ZÜRICH
Supercharged
thermalbad
The water is believed to have healing powers
but few studies can attest to that The hipsters dip their feet at Rimini Bar, the jocks at Fitnesspark Stockerhof, the mums cleanse their pores at Frauenbadi and the yuppies soak their loins at Asia Spa. Ignorance is most definitely no longer bliss; Zürich’s spas are hot (and not just in terms of temperature). Depending on the type, price and length of treatment you are looking for, there is a lido or spa for everyone. Wellness, or a derivative thereof, is a part of everyday life in the lungs of Europe. There’s a freshness inherent to Zürich that’s not just in the high-altitude air or the formidable mineral content of the water. Juxtaposed with the semi-stoic nature of its people everything from Zürich’s shopping and club scene, to the architecture and history seems supercharged. Reinvigoration, stimulation, recreation, alleviation and relaxation; ironically enough big business and corporate tax portfolios aren’t the only thing the city of Zürich offers extravagant relief to.
General information: Tel. +41 (0)44 2154000 information@zuerich.com zuerich.com Hotel reservations:
HOW TO GET THERE FROM SCHIPHOL
Tel. +41 (0)44 2154040
Thermalbad & Spa Zürich Tel. +41 (0)44 2059650 thermalbad-zuerich.ch
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hotel@zuerich.com zuerich.com/hotel Flight Bookings: swiss.com
1.5hrs
Take a 1.5hr flight from Schiphol to Zurich Airport.
travel report
Our Zürich picks If you’re not one for mud baths, muscle manipulation and manicures Zürich has plenty of non-wellnessrelated conviviality to offer:
Sip champagne on a roundtrip of Lake Sweet treats at Spüngli
Zürich with Zürichsee Schifffahrtgesellschaf. zsg.ch Soak up Roman history and enjoy mind-blowing views at the 13th-century Lindehoff square. Visit the 9th-century Fraumünster Church, which features stunning
west zürich
stained glass windows by Marc Chagall. fraumuenster.ch Marvel at the impressive style and design collections at the Museum für Gestaltung Zürich. museum-gestaltung.ch Indulge your sweet tooth at Sprüngli, a 175-year-old
view from lindehoff square
family owned confectionery company. spruengli.ch Grab a drink at the Labor Bar: an old laboratory turned nightclub that draws a trend-conscious crowd. laborbar.ch Dance the night away at the Cabaret Club, one of Zürich West’s many homes of
west zürich church fraumünster
minimal techno and house. cabaret.im Check out the Schiffbau building, a cultural centre nestled in a massive shipbuilding hall, where industrial style is juxtaposed with modern architecture.
Ticket to ride With a ZürichCARD, valid for 24 or 72 hours, you can enjoy unlimited travel on all of Zürich’s public transport, free entry to all museums, reductions on city tours as well as discounts in stores and restaurants.
schauspielhaus.ch
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CAPE TOWN, SPLIT & EDINBURGH By: Catherine Smyth
Cape Town: South Africa Currency: South African Rand (ZAR) population: 3,500,000 Language: Afrikaans/English
DO: How many people can say they’ve ridden an ostrich across an African plain as if it were a Harley Davidson? You can make such a claim if you take a short trip outside the city to one of the Oudtshoorn ostrich farms. If the idea of riding an ostrich doesn’t appeal you can always sample an ostrich steak, or an ostrich egg (a single egg can provide breakfast for 15 people), or shop for beautifully decorated egg shells and vibrant dyed feathers (which were once literally worth their weight in gold).
SEE: Locals claim that you have not truly seen Cape Town until you’ve witnessed it laid out before you from the top of Table Mountain, the flat-topped mountain that dominates the Cape Town skyline. Access the plateau by cable car or, if you’re feeling energetic, hike the three kilometres to the top. KNOW: Wine is big business in Cape Town and the surrounding area is home to some excellent intimate wine routes. Areas such as Constantia offer wine-tasting tours, as well as rustic farm-kitchen restaurants, boutique shops and spas in a tranquil, dreamy setting. M flight time from ams: 11hrs ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
Split: Croatia Currency: Kuna (HRK) population: 178,000 Language: Croatian
panels; it’s a lively, interactive walled city where 21st century life goes on against an ancient Roman backdrop. Its labyrinth of streets is peppered with restaurants, boutique shops, bars and quaint accommodation, and the welcoming community atmosphere makes visitors feel as if they’re guests of the emperor Diocletian himself.
DO: Take a day trip to one of the Dalmatian Islands dotted along the coastline. The biggest, Hvar, boasts white sandy beaches and rolling lavender fields and is widely considered to be one of the most beautiful tourist destinations in the world. Dozens of boats depart each day from the quaint town port – take your pick from a ferry, catamaran, water taxi or luxury private sail boat.
KNOW: Dining out is a wonderful experience
SEE: The Diocletian’s palace is a world heritage site not hidden behind ropes and Perspex
M flight time from ams: 2hrs 15min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
in Split – especially if you’re on a budget. A three-course meal in a restaurant serving local specialities made with fresh produce from the neighbourhood costs a fraction of what it would in many other European cities.
Edinburgh: Scotland Currency: Pound (GBP) population: 486,000 Language: English
DO: Take a walk up the Royal Mile in Edinburgh’s old town to absorb the authentic and well maintained Scottish atmosphere. Starting at the dramatic, modern structure that hosts the Scottish parliament, the Royal Mile runs through the centre of Edinburgh and is lined with traditional Scottish pubs, eateries, museums, boutique shops and some of the oldest and most beautiful buildings in the United Kingdom. SEE: Superstitious? Pay a visit to Mary King’s
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Close, believed to be one of the most haunted locations in Europe. Buried deep beneath the Royal Mile, this medieval warren of streets and alleyways has an intensely dark history and illustrates Edinburgh’s murky antiquity in a lively, thrilling way.
KNOW: Much of Edinburgh, including the great ancient castle – which safeguards some of the most significant documents and artefacts in Scottish history – is built on a dormant volcano. Every day at 13.00 the sound of an explosion reverberates around the city from the cannon that is ceremonially blasted at the castle. M flight time from ams: 1hr 30min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
city guide
strasbourg, zürich & istanbul STRASBOURG: FRANCE Currency: Euro (EUR) population: 280,000 Language: French
DO: The city is chiefly known for its sandstone Gothic Cathedral. Climb the spiral staircase of one of the tallest churches in the world for views not only of the entire city, but also the French suburbs and country on one side and the German mountains and fields on the other. SEE: Two words: Petite France. A walk along one of the canal-lined cobbled streets in the shadow of the half-timbered houses will probably have you gasping at the breathtak-
ing surroundings. Terraces of restaurants, cafés and bars spill out on to the streets and are always busy. Whether you’re with company or going solo it’s well worth stopping off to have a bite to eat and watch the world go by.
KNOW: A French/Germanic city and the seat of the European parliament, Strasbourg is a city of politics. Many of the visitors to Strasbourg are likely to be diplomats, lobbyists and activists. There is a large expat community making Strasbourg a melting pot of European culture.
M flight time from ams: 1hr 10min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
ZÜRICH: SWITZERLAND Currency: Swiss Franc (CHF) population: 372,000 Language: German
KNOW: In recent years, Zürich has been
DO: Eat fondue. It’s a Swiss classic and Zürich takes pride in serving up the finest in the country. Bring on the cheese!
trying hard to shake its reputation as a serious centre of all things financial to become known as a contemporary city of vibrancy, culture, art and entertainment. An explosion in the number of clubs, bars, galleries and eateries means there’s plenty of choice for discerning traveller.
SEE: Lake Zürich, the grand lake that provides the majority of the city’s drinking water, is a diverse leisure area right on Zürich’s doorstep. Surrounded by restaurants, spas, museums and nature trails, the lake is a hotbed for water sports during the summer, and the surrounding area becomes a winter sports arena when the colder months arrive.
M flight time from ams: 1hr 35min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
ISTANBUL: TURKEY Currency: Lira (TRY) population: 8,800,000 Language: Turkish
DO: Shop! Visit the Istanbul Grand Bazaar for an exhaustingly satisfying eastern experience. With around 5,500 vendors competing for custom there are endless opportunities to haggle with all your confidence and conviction and get the adrenalin pumping. The Grand Bazaar is a warren of hundreds of shops, restaurants, tea rooms, Turkish baths and fountains, where you can buy everything from handcrafted jewellery to locally sourced spices and Turkish sweets made on the spot.
SEE: Sultanahmet and the Baazar Quarter, the historic pulse of postcard Istanbul, where the ancient domes, minarets, mosques and mosaics all lie beautifully preserved after thousands of years. The contrast of the ancient eastern history surrounded by a city so modern and vibrant is something that can only be experienced in Istanbul. KNOW: Istanbul is a rising super city, with a young, cultured inner city population of more than eight million. The city is working every day to project its artistic, lively reputation and is on the map as one of the pioneers of the future. M flight time from ams: 3hrs 20min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
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vienna, tel aviv & oslo Vienna: Austria Currency: Euro (EUR) population: 1,700,000 Language: German
alone, without even having to set foot in one of the impressive theatres, museums or galleries.
KNOW: Theatre, fine art, opera and classical DO: Attend an evening performance at the state opera house. Widely considered to be one of Europe’s most magnificent venues, it offers a great experience for seasoned operalovers and newcomers alike, from the audio to the awe-inspiring visuals.
SEE: The Museums Quartier is where you’ll find the heart of the art, culture and history that Vienna is renowned for. The city’s grand opulence is illustrated by the architecture
music are at the core of the city’s culture. The post-Christmas period in the city is known as ‘ball season’, where all institutions of any social standing host grand, formal balls.
M flight time from ams: 1hr 50min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
Tel Aviv: Israel Currency: Shekel (ILS) population: 400,000 Language: Hebrew/Arabic
are the best days to get a snapshot of Jewish culture, being the most popular day of the week for Jewish wedding ceremonies.
DO: A wreck dive. Tel Aviv is a coastal beach city with multiple diving companies catering for the most experienced to absolute beginners. The waters around Tel Aviv are among the best for diving in the Mediterranean. Experienced divers can take part in a guided dive to the ‘sea wolf’ wreck which lies 30m beneath the surface.
KNOW: Tel Aviv is something of the sin city of
SEE: Check out the beaming newlyweds in Jafa on Monday afternoons. The old city area of Tel Aviv provides the picture-perfect backdrop for just-married couples. Mondays
the Mediterranean. Its world-famous night life and party culture puts it in dramatic contrast to Israel’s other popular tourist destinations such as Jerusalem and Nazareth which are more likely to attract a religious crowd. Much of Tel Aviv is new and modern with only small districts such as the aforementioned Jafa area where you will find ancient Israeli historical sites. M flight time from ams: 4hrs ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
Oslo: Norway Currency: Krone (NOK) population: 4,900,000 Language: Norwegian
DO: Make a visit to the Norwegian Royal Pal-
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100m-long bridge across a waterfall adorned with engraved granite illustrations of humans at different stages of development.
KNOW: If you’re planning a shopping trip in
ace where, unlike many European royal palaces, the building is open to the public with guided tours available during the summer. Watch the changing of the guard spectacle which takes place every day at 13.30.
Oslo, it’s well worth keeping the Grünerløkka (pronounced; gr-under-lookha) district in mind. An interesting, unique area, it is the place to find little boutiques and independent shops selling clothing, handicrafts and pottery from young, Norwegian designers.
SEE: Vigeland Sculpture Park is a must-see for art lovers. It contains 192 thought provoking sculptures by Gustave Vigeland, each a statement on the theme of life and relationships. One of the most interesting attractions is the
M flight time from ams: 1hr 30min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
city guide
dubai, reykjavik & bruges Dubai: The Emirates Currency: Dirham (AED) population: 2,200,000 Language: Arabic
DO: Get trigger happy! Situated in an imposing fortress-style building, the Jebel Ali International Shooting Club offers a full range of shooting facilities and activities. You can try your hand at anything from Olympic skeet shooting to clay pigeon blasting. SEE: Camel racing as a sport takes place mainly during the winter months in Dubai. Starting around October, races are held on Thursday and Friday mornings at dedicated tracks around the country. The best way to
experience this unique, exciting sport that you won’t see anywhere outside the United Arab Emirates is by visiting on public holidays when there is a huge turnout of spectators and an electric atmosphere.
KNOW: The Burj Al Arab hotel claims to be the most luxurious in the world and is one of only a handful worldwide to have been awarded seven-star status. With rain showers and Jacuzzis in every suite (there are only suites, no rooms), a fleet of Rolls Royces and butlers on call 24 hours a day there is very little globally that can compare. M flight time from ams: 7hrs ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
Reykjavik: Iceland Currency: Krona (ISK) population: 120,000 Language: Icelandic
providing different packages it is possible to view Puffin Island, and even catch your own fish on a sea-angling cruise.
KNOW: Reykjavik is the most northern capital DO: Sink into a bath in a giant thermal spa pool at the Blue Lagoon, no matter what the weather’s doing. The Blue Lagoon spa uses geothermal energy and natural minerals to heat and treat its guests with a spa pool heated at 37-39C and free moisturising, exfoliating Sicilia mud for application to the face and body.
SEE: Some majestic sea giants on a whalewatching tour running from Reykjavik until late October. With a choice of companies
city in the world. During mid-winter the city and surrounding areas receive only four hours of daylight, but in the summer months the days are long and the nights are almost as bright as the afternoon.
M flight time from ams: 3hrs 10min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
Bruges: Belgium Currency: Euro (EUR) population: 116,000 Language: Dutch/French
DO: Pay a visit to a traditional Belgian brewery in a country renowned for its beer. With reasonably priced tours offered in English, French and Dutch, De Halve Maan Brewery introduces the brewing process, history and other fascinating facts about Belgian brewing (and includes a lot of free samples too, of course).
SEE: The city laid out beneath you from the dizzying heights of a hot air balloon. Bright balloons are a common sight on the city’s
skyline, and rides are popular among tourists and locals alike for a romantic surprise or just a treat. The bird’s eye view of the medieval city with its church spires and canals along with the surrounding green countryside is something spectacular.
KNOW: This old medieval city is the most popular tourist destination in Belgium. Many will say that this international melting pot of people milling around the quiet market squares, ancient chapels and mellow canals gives Bruges much of its famed charm and atmosphere. M flight time from ams: Too close for flights
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city guide
london, bogota & los angeles London: United Kingdom Currency: Pound (GBP) population: 7,800,000 Language: English
DO: Shop until your plastic melts. Undisputed as the shopping Mecca of the planet, London casts the likes of Dubai into the ‘wannabe’ bracket and leaves Paris and New York scrabbling over 2nd place. A full shopping review of London could never be squeezed into a few words, so we suggest that you research the different shopping districts, markets, department stores, flagship stores and everything in between to work out what suits you best. There really is something for everyone.
SEE: London is known for its many markets, but foodies need only know of one. Borough Market is the city’s gourmet centre, providing a little bit of everything from everywhere. Find everything from obscure ingredients, raw or ready-to-prepare meat and fish as well heavenly ready-to-eat treats. KNOW: When it comes to transport, London is well organised. As soon as you arrive in town, buy an Oyster Card! The city transport card gives you cheap and easy access to the vast majority of London’s transport network. Without one, you’ll have to pay up to six times as much for a single journey. M flight time from ams: 1hr ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
BogotÁ: Colombia Currency: Peso (COP) population: 7,400,000 Language: Spanish
DO: For caffeine addicts, a coffee masterclass at Escuela Café is a must. Participants can enjoy South America’s finest fresh produce in a four-hour hands-on espresso and cappuccino workshop. The course is led by an expert who not only offers banks of information on everything from history, theory and barista techniques, but plenty of insider knowledge on the best cafés in Bogotá and what they have to offer, too. SEE: Magpies will love the grand gold and
emerald displays at one of Bogotá’s precious metal and stone museums or the Museo del Oro. Dripping with splendorous wealth and history such museums provide a jaw-dropping spectacle as well as factual information about a fascinating pre-Hispanic historical period.
KNOW: Although not the capital, Bogotá is something of the urban centre of Colombia. Well located geographically, and also positioned as the political, financial and service centre of the country, Bogotá serves as a good base for travellers who wish to explore further afield in Colombia and South America. M flight time from ams: 14hrs 45min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
Los Angeles: USA Currency: US Dollar (USD) population: 3,800,000 Language: English
DO: Enjoy the sun on one of the glorious, world famous beaches, because ‘sightseeing’ doesn’t have to mean rushing around. Where better to catch some rays and indulge in some people-watching than on one of LA’s iconic stretches of sand? SEE: An indie film. In a city where there is such a heavy concentration of filmmakers, writers, actors, producers and directors all trying to elbow their way into the big time, Los Angeles’ independent cinema is unsur-
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prisingly of a very high standard. Although most films don’t have the budget to launch on the world stage you could be pleasantly surprised and highly impressed by how well some films are put together on such a small budget.
KNOW: Los Angeles is a lot bigger than many people think. It has a population of 20 million and is made up of five counties: Los Angeles, Riverside, Ventura, Orange and San Bernardino.
M flight time from ams: 10hrs 15min ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
travel report
bizzare happenings
gorilla run LONDON w 24 sept 2011 Seven kilometres. It’s easy enough to walk that distance, in flip flops, with no training whatsoever. It’s the mandatory hairy gorilla suit that turns this into an exhausting task. Especially if you’re determined to keep the heat-trapping face mask with tiny eye holes in place.
photos: david vermeulen
Sullivan’s List is based on the
unique story of U.S. park ranger Roy C. Sullivan (1912 - 1983) who was hit by lightning seven times. He survived every strike and each time he talked about making a list of all the amazing events and places he wanted to experience. He never made this list. Sullivan’s List is the inspiration for those who don’t want to wait for lightning to strike but want to explore the world right now.
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travel report
On the route that runs along the River Thames, past the Tate Modern and Tower Bridge, there is a massive staircase. It’s easy to miss a step as it’s so hard to see out of your mask. The instructions that are delivered along with your gorilla costume include this tip: practice with your suit on. That’s the only way you’ll notice that the legs of the suit are way too long and the eye holes probably too small. Nip and tuck that thing! You want to make sure that your suit is as perfect as can be before the start of the annual Great Gorilla Run in London.
Endangered apes At the start of the race, the organisers hand out headbands that will help keep your gorilla mask from wobbling too much and obstructing your view. The purpose of this sporty costume event is to protect the gorilla. Everyone who signs up for the run pays around €90 and promises to collect at least€€445 in donations. Your registration money gets you a fundraising pack, a gorilla suit, as well as those handy instructions mentioned earlier. On top of that, you get your own fundraising website so that your friends, acquaintances and colleagues can donate money to the organisation and you can keep close track of who loves you (and the apes).
Coconut bikinis The Gorilla Organization primarily donates the collected money to the people living near the gorillas’ habitat, the African rainforest. The aim is to provide these poor people with alternative means of supporting themselves other than mining, farming, hunting and thereby damaging the gorillas’ habitat.
Headbands keep the mask from wobbling
The money that you raise by sweating it out in that suit is also provided to schools in villages close to the territory of the endangered apes. But there’s more to it than just donning a suit and running. The British like to go one step further. Not only are you dressed up as a gorilla, you are a gorilla. And since this is a fun run, the gorillas wear costumes. Previously spotted along the race route: a gorilla dressed up as a banana, gorillas in tutus, gorillas dressed as marathon runners, a gorilla as a boxer, one as a bikini model and a bunch of gorillas dressed as a native African tribe, complete with raffia skirts, coconut bikinis – the works. You can try to do even better than that.
LONDON CAPITAL OF THE UNITED KINGDOM Language: British English Population: 7,500,000
M flight time from ams: 1hr ✈ DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE
SULLIVAN’S LIST IS ALSO AVAILABLE AS A BOOK - ORDER IT ONLINE:
The first Great Gorilla Run was held in 2003. Now, about a thousand people participate in the sponsored event and the organisation hopes to see that number increase. Participation costs around €90, and you can sign up through the website www.greatgorillas.org. Your gorilla suit will be sent
www
to your home. The suits are quite large, so don’t overestimate your size when you fill out the form. If the sweat starts streaming right through your
sullivanslist.com
saturated eyebrows, take off your mask. This is not a speed contest; there are also prizes for the best-dressed gorillas. The cost for your family and
bWhat’s this thing?
friends will be at least €445 in donations. It’s also fine to walk.
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This is a QR code, that you can scan with a smartphone. For more info, check page 98.
BEHIND THE SCENES
What happens to your suitcase after check-in? By: Mike Peek video: michael whitener
...and drop off your suitcase in ‘Departures 1’, where it enters a highly automated luggage system in the new ‘Hal Zuid’.
y
ou arrive at Schiphol airport, find your check-in counter... >>
Here, your luggage goes through a series of procedures.
OK The belt behind the counter takes your bag to a basement below the check-in area.
First up is the security check. Once the bag has been identified and cleared... >>
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schiphol
scenario: long wait If you check in very early, your flight is delayed or you’re waiting for a connecting flight, your bag has to be stored before it can go to the plane.
...it travels along a roller coaster of belts to get to its destination.
It will be transported to a state-of-the-art ‘luggage buffer’.
Schiphol only finished this futuristic machine last March. It can hold almost
5,000 suitcases! This computer is the heart of the system.
Bags stored in the luggage buffer are automatically retrieved when your flight is getting ready to leave.
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‘Batch handling’ takes care of actually getting your bag to the plane.
But this guy doesn’t carry your suitcase himself... >> ...he keeps an eye on the highly sophisticated ‘luggage robot’.
the robot waits for your bag to leave the belt, lifts it carefully...and places it on the trailer that will take it to the plane.
When all bags are loaded onto the trailer... it is ready to leave!
Meanwhile in the control room...
operators oversee the entire process and intervene if something goes wrong. 52
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schiphol
scenario: speedy handling If your suitcase is in a hurry, humans take over
The luggage robots currently handle about 60% of all luggage in Hal Zuid. The other 40%... >>
...mostly “last minute” luggage which has to be dispatched asap, is done by hand.
This is still the fastest way to get your bag to a plane.
The result is the same as with the robots: your luggage is loaded onto a trailer.
When full, the trailer is taken out...
This scanner is used to identify your suitcase. ...covered in plastic so the bags don’t fall off or get soaked by rain, and driven to the plane.
video Want the see the robots in motion? Scan the QR code and take a real glimpse behind the scenes! bWhat’s this thing?
bon voyage!
This is a QR code, that you can scan with a smartphone. For more info on how to use this code, check page 98.
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trivia
it’s all in the
numbers International tourism grew by 7% in 2010 when there were more than 940 million worldwide travellers
The Japanese use the least amount of their given annual holiday days: about half
34%
Europe is the biggest tourist market in the world. Half of the European share (25% of all tourism) can be attributed to four countries – France, Spain, Italy and the UK
of employed email users say they regularly
check their email while on holiday, 11% say they check often, 14% say sometimes and 9% check rarely
The average corporate email user sends 34 emails and receives about 99 per day, so after a two-week holiday they can expect their inbox to be clogged with more than 1,000 messages
The top five ‘questionable behaviors’ travellers admit to engaging in while on a summer leisure trip are: public intoxication (17%), skinny dipping (13%), trespassing at a private beach or pool (8%), a summer fling (8%) and nude sunbathing (7%) In a survey of 974 people who took a break from work, those who stayed at home were just as happy afterwards as those who travelled abroad
83%
of people admit to suffering from ‘post-vacation blues’ (PVB)
The majority of people find that planning their next holiday immediately upon their return is very therapeutic and keeps PVB at bay
Ironically enough, the survey also showed that people are much happier in the weeks leading up to their trip than when they get back
Many feel that cooking the local cuisine, keeping their tan topped-up and organising their workspace helps prolong the holiday feeling
There are more break-ups following holidays than at any other significant period in the year SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.com
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quiz
OooH... what does this button do?
MAP REFERENCE Page 94 Want to see a cockpit up close and got time to kill? Pay a visit to the Fokker 100 airplane at the Panorama Terrace.
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Name: Paolo Iuch
For answer
has been a pilot for 10 years age: 32 Flies for: Ryanair Flying hours: 6,500
turn magazine upside down
ANSWER: The stab trim main elect cut out switch and the stab trim autopilot switch located on the control stand allow the autopilot to be disconnected from the stabiliser trim motor. The stabiliser is the rear wing of the plane that provides stability and keeps the plane straight
Before his 19th birthday Frank Abagnale Jr. fraudulently made millions of dollars by posing as a Pan Am pilot. Pretty clever considering there’s quite some stuff you need to know before you can actually fly a plane. Are you a potential Abagnale? We put your knowledge to the test!
Sneak Peek
FREEDOM By Jonathan Franzen
Jonathan Franzen, 52, is an American novelist and essayist who divides his time between New York City and Santa Cruz, California. He has won numerous awards for his fiction, including the National Book Award, and was a Pulitzer Prize finalist in 2002 with his novel The Corrections.
l
Sneak Peek
freedom
/jonathan franzen
The news about Walter Berglund wasn’t picked up locally—he and Patty had moved away to Washington two years earlier and meant nothing to St. Paul now—but the urban gentry of Ramsey Hill were not so loyal to their city as not to read the New York Times. According to a long and very unflattering story in the Times, Walter had made quite a mess of his professional life out there in the nation’s capital. His old neighbors had some difficulty reconciling the quotes about him in the Times (“arrogant,” “high-handed,” “ethically compromised”) with the generous, smiling, red-faced 3M employee they remembered pedaling his commuter bicycle up Summit Avenue in February snow; it seemed strange that Walter, who was greener than Greenpeace and whose own roots were rural, should be in trouble now for conniving with the coal industry and mistreating country people. Then again, there had always been something not quite right about the Berglunds. 58
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‘...there had always been something not quite right about the Berglunds.’ Walter and Patty were the young pioneers of Ramsey Hill—the first college grads to buy a house on Barrier Street since the old heart of St. Paul had fallen on hard times three decades earlier. They paid nothing for their Victorian and then killed themselves for ten years renovating it. Early on, some very determined person torched their garage and twice broke into their car before they got the garage rebuilt. Sunburned bikers descended on the vacant lot across the
alley to drink Schlitz and grill knockwurst and rev engines at small hours until Patty went outside in sweatclothes and said, “Hey, you guys, you know what?” Patty frightened nobody, but she’d been a standout athlete in high school and college and possessed a jock sort of fearlessness. From her first day in the neighborhood, she was helplessly conspicuous. Tall, ponytailed, absurdly young, pushing a stroller past stripped cars and broken beer bottles and barfed-upon old snow, she might have been carrying all the hours of her day in the string bags that hung from her stroller. Behind her you could see the baby-encumbered preparations for a morning of baby-encumbered errands; ahead of her, an afternoon of public radio, the Silver Palate Cookbook, cloth diapers, drywall compound, and latex paint; and then Goodnight Moon, then zinfandel. She was already fully the thing that was just starting to happen to the rest of the street. In the earliest years, when you could
Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers Ltd © (2011) (Jonathan Franzen)
Jonathan Franzen’s fourth novel is an epic tale of contemporary love and marriage, charting the lives of Walter and Patty Berglund as they struggle to learn how to live in an increasingly confusing world. Here, we meet the couple for the first time…
LITERATURE
still drive a Volvo 240 without feeling selfconscious, the collective task in Ramsey Hill was to relearn certain life skills that your own parents had fled to the suburbs specifically to unlearn, like how to interest the local cops in actually doing their job, and how to protect a bike from a highly motivated thief, and when to bother rousting a drunk from your lawn furniture, and how to encourage feral cats to shit in somebody else’s children’s sandbox, and how to determine whether a public school sucked too much to bother trying to fix it. There were also more contemporary questions, like, what about those cloth diapers? Worth the bother? And was it true that you could still get milk delivered in glass bottles? Were the Boy Scouts OK politically? Was bulgur really necessary? Where to recycle batteries? How to respond when a poor person of color accused you of destroying her neighborhood? Was it true that the glaze of old Fiestaware contained dangerous amounts of lead? How elaborate did a kitchen water filter actually need to be? Did your 240 sometimes not go into overdrive when you pushed the overdrive button? Was it better to offer panhandlers food, or nothing? Was it possible to raise unprecedentedly confident, happy, brilliant kids while working full-time? Could coffee beans be ground the night before you used them, or did this have to be done in the morning? Had anybody in the history of St. Paul ever had a positive experience with a roofer? What about a good Volvo mechanic? Did your 240 have that problem with the sticky parking-brake cable? And that enigmatically labeled dash-
board switch that made such a satisfying Swedish click but seemed not to be connected to anything: what was that? For all queries, Patty Berglund was a resource, a sunny carrier of sociocultural pollen, an affable bee. She was one of the few stay-at-home moms in Ramsey Hill and was famously averse to speaking well of herself or ill of anybody else. She said she expected to be “beheaded” someday by one of the windows whose sash chains she’d replaced. Her children were “probably” dying of trichinosis from pork she’d undercooked. She wondered if her “addiction” to paintstripper fumes might be related to her “never” reading books anymore. She confided that she’d been “forbidden” to fertilize Walter’s flowers after what had happened “last time.” There were people with whom her style of self-deprecation didn’t sit well— who detected a kind of condescension in it, as if Patty, in exaggerating her own minor defects, were too obviously trying to spare the feelings of less accomplished homemakers. But most people found her humility sincere or at least amusing, and it was in any case hard to resist a woman whom your own children liked so much and who remembered not only their birthdays but yours, too, and came to your back door with a plate of cookies or a card or some lilies of the valley in a little thrift-store vase that she told you not to bother returning. It was known that Patty had grown up back East, in a suburb of New York City, and had received one of the first women’s full scholarships to play basketball at Minnesota, where, in her sophomore year, accord-
ing to a plaque on the wall of Walter’s home office, she’d made second team all-American. One strange thing about Patty, given her strong family orientation, was that she had no discernible connection to her roots. Whole seasons passed without her setting foot outside St. Paul, and it wasn’t clear that anybody from the East, not even her parents, had ever come out to visit.
The pocket edition of Freedom is now available at Schiphol.
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NORTH UIST, SCOTLAND, GREAT BRITAIN North Uist is the tenth largest Scottish island and the thirteenth largest island surrounding Great Britain. It has an area of 303Â km2 (117 square miles), slightly smaller than South Uist. population: 1,500
North Uist
THE GHOST ISLAND With a glaring look of caution and pensively pursed lips, local crofter Angus Macdougall whispers in his musical Hebridean accent: ‘Just be mindful of the ghosts that walk the island. They’ve been known to glide across the sand at night, leaving no footprints.’
By: Arun Sood Photography: Sarah Moore
While it might not actually be haunted, the island of North Uist most certainly has an otherworldly feel to it; so it’s unsurprising that some of the locals occasionally conjure up tales of the supernatural. With Lewis and Harris to the north and Barra to the south, the island forms the middle section of the Outer Hebrides in Scotland, and is the perfect place to escape the fast-paced bustle of mainland life.
Wild beauty North Uist is the Scottish wilderness in all its untamed glory. The landscape is at once beautiful but harsh. Jagged, scraggy rocks jut out from the coastline as if defensively guarding the powder white beaches, each one resembling a miniature mountain range as they tower above the shallow, turquoise water on the shore. Prickly thorn bushes, orchids and thistles are strewn across rough grassland, yet still manage to radiate a gentle sense of illuminated beauty. While the island is substantial in size – the tenth largest in Scotland – it has a humble population of around 1,500. Vast areas of the land remain uninhabitable, partly because half of the island is covered by water in the form of lochs and rock pools. It’s often hard to tell what’s actually land and what’s water; the definition constantly being in flux due to the various tidal islands that are scattered off the main coastline.
Solitary wonder One of the most beautiful tidal islands, Vallay, is reachable only for a few hours in the day during low tide and is well worth visiting, despite the risk of being stranded by the sweep of the Atlantic Ocean. Vallay initially gives the impression that only the most adventurous of mankind would have dared to live there, in a solitary sense of dislocation from the rest of the world. However, after being there for an afternoon, it becomes apparent why people would never want to leave. On a sunny day, its vast white beaches and colourful carpet of flowers are more reminiscent of the Caribbean than rural Scotland.
‘Only the most adventurous would dare to live here’ Despite – or perhaps thanks to – the far from tropical temperatures, the locals are made of sterner stuff than most, as local carpenter Paul MacLean showed upon diving into the spray of the breaking waves. While regular mortals might be reduced to the state of a hypothermic quivering mess, he beams with delight upon walking back: ‘Aye, it’s a fine day for it. Feel a
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bit more freshened up now’, he smiles, shaking the drips from his body. A diet comprised of Atlantic shellfish clearly helps shield one from the cold and boosts body strength. Of course, imbibing ‘a couple ‘o drams’ doesn’t hurt in that department either.
Sparse community There remains, however, a melancholic sense of loss to some parts of North Uist. Abandoned crofts (ed., small areas of agricultural land, often with a house on them) crumble all over the island, with only a few squatting pigeons
travel report
Along with Benbecula and South Uist, North Uist forms the middle section of the archipelago of the Outer Hebrides, an island chain off the west coast of Scotland. Much of North Uist is covered by water, and a number of its lochs contain both fresh and saltwater, giving rise to some of the most unique natural habitats in Great Britain.
Schiphol Magazine’s Arun plays his mandolin while waiting for a ghost SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.com
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travel report making sure the ruins don’t go to complete waste. The population continues to decline, and while traditional industries such as lobster fishing and crofting still exist, they offer little employment opportunities and are fast being replaced by tourism and hospitality. Yet the derelict buildings and ancient ruins only enhance the sense of wonder that permeates the island. They stand as telling historical reminders of warring clans, Highland clearances and, going even further back, Viking invasions. With such rich history visible to the naked eye, it’s little wonder that tales of ghosts are whispered to newcomers, even if they are told with tongue firmly in cheek.
From dusk till dawn
This abandoned house is steeped in folklore. Built by the wealthy historian Erskine Beveridge in 1902, the house was said to contain 365 windows and had a different fireplace in every room. When he died, the property was passed to his son (a whisky lover) who later drowned when trying to cross the Vallay Strand at night. No-one ever came to claim the property, and it has been decaying ever since.
‘Abandoned crofts crumble all over the island’
Despite the declining population, the remaining locals are bound together by a strong community spirit. Although the island is sparse, you never truly feel alone due to the welcoming attitude of the people, who tend to go out of their way to help whenever possible. They encapsulate what it means to live in a caring community, something most of us have lost, to quote Wordsworth, ‘mid the din/Of towns and cities’. Community projects such as art fairs, piping competitions and ceilidhs (traditional Gaelic social gatherings that usually involve folk music, dancing and plenty of whisky) are regularly arranged, generating outside interest and also providing the locals with a chance to gather in jovial spirits. On a smaller scale, it’s not uncommon to see families sitting in the garden, telling stories or singing songs to pass away the delightfully slow, unruffled afternoons. As dusk falls on North Uist, it’s clear that there could be far worse places to live in this overcrowded world. Shimmers of sunlight slowly fade into the purple-tinged darkness, creating silhouettes of barren hills and derelict houses. While there were no ghosts to be seen on this occasion, there’s certainly a mystical beauty that pervades the island; a beauty that lingers and stays with a person forever after they’ve experienced it.
HOW TO GET THERE FROM SCHIPHOL
9hrs
Take a 1.5-hour flight from Schiphol to Glasgow International Airport. From there, you can fly to Benbecula Airport which is 8 miles away from North Uist and is connected to the island by a causeway. Alternatively, enjoy the scenic drive from Glasgow up to Uig on the Isle of Skye (approx. 5 hours), then catch the ferry from Uig to the port of Lochmaddy on North Uist.
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ADVERTORIAL
Not all souvenirs are ok Are you travelling to a far-away place this month? Make sure you pay attention to the souvenirs you buy, because you can’t just take anything home. A new initiative by Dutch Customs officials aims to educate travellers about what they can and can’t bring into the Netherlands.
will be inspected. After that it’s all down to the officers. ‘A smuggler doesn’t walk around with a stamp on his forehead,’ says De Vries. ‘We pay attention to signals.
the rules
How is someone dressed? Where is the flight coming from? And if we suspect someone we simply pull them aside.’ Imitation goods can be dangerous, De Vries explains: ‘By buying those products you are directly supporting illegal trade and bad working conditions. On top of that a lot of the products are dangerous. Imitation Parrot
feathers
from
clothing is often full of toxic substances.’
Brazil. Ten knock-off polo shirts by some luxury
‘Bolce & Gabban’
brands. A toy gun that looks just a little too real. Dutch
In some cases, a traveller might suspect that they have
holidaymakers are often confused about what they
something they should declare at Customs. That’s why
can and cannot bring back home. It’s up to Customs
at Schiphol you can choose between a green and a red
officials to ensure that no unwanted goods enter the
counter. If you go to the green counter you imply that
Netherlands and the EU. Anyone caught importing
you have nothing to declare, but there is always the
forbidden items will have them confiscated and might
possibility that you will be checked. Customs officials
receive a fine.
have extensive knowledge of illegal goods. They are routinely trained by representatives from luxury
Extra Sad
brands, among others, to help them identify fake
All travellers must abide by certain rules. It’s obviously
items. Sometimes people make it easy for them. A man
not a pleasant surprise to have to surrender that fancy
arriving at Schiphol from Paramaribo carrying a pair of
souvenir you bought for your cousin once you reach the
‘Bolce & Gabban’ jeans is just one example.
border, but mistakes like this can be easily avoided. Regardless of the very clear instructions on the Customs
Bear’s head
website there are always tourists who are misinformed,
The rules about flora and fauna form a completely
says Customs officer Louis de Vries. ‘Usually there are
different chapter in the rulebook. Chinese medication
no wrong intentions, which makes it extra sad when we
sometimes contains protected plant kinds – which are
have to confiscate something. Especially so when we
illegal to import. Of course, Schiphol’s Customs officials
have to issue a fine on top of that.’
can’t all read Chinese, so they use lists of Chinese characters to help them identify banned ingredients.
In order to educate travellers about what they can
The officials see all sorts of goods during the summer
and cannot import, the Dutch Customs authorities are
months at Schiphol: coral from the Dutch Antilles,
launching the campaign: ‘Is this OK: yes, or no?’. The
cacti from Mexico and ivory from China and Thailand.
campaign will run mainly at Schiphol, where thousands
Extreme examples are displayed at the Customs offices,
of holidays begin and end, and will be supported by a
and include a complete Zebra skin, a bear’s head and a
mobile application. The free ‘OK-app’, which can be
bag made from crocodile skin with sharp teeth guarding
downloaded at www.douane.nl/app, tells travellers
its opening.
which souvenirs are ok and which are not. One illusion less Toxic substances
One good thing is that, while tourists will have to
In the summer months Customs officials are mainly on
surrender their fake Björn Borg underwear, fake flora
the lookout for imitation clothing and weapons, which
and fauna is usually not an issue. But wallets made from
are easy to come by at various holiday destinations
‘elephant skin’ often turn out to be ordinary leather. In
around the Mediterranean. According to a risk
these cases, Customs will rob you of an illusion, but you
assessment analysis Customs decides which flights
do get to keep the wallet.
Imitation goods: Imitation goods are forbidden, but you can import up to three watches, 250ml of perfume, and three media items (e.g., DVDs, CDs). Weapons: Weapons and ammo are strictly forbidden as is imitation weaponry. Flora & Fauna: Strict rules govern the import of plants and animals. It’s illegal to import endangered animals and plants including corals. Food: Strict rules govern the import of foodstuffs. Importing goods derived from animals such as cheese, milk or meat is legal but requires a permit of health from the authorities in the originating country. Money: If you travel from a non-EU country to the Netherlands or another country within the European Union and bring in liquid assets (money and securities) with a total value of €10,000 or more, you must submit a declaration to Customs. If you travel to the Netherlands from a country outside the EU and bring in goods with a total value of more than €430, you need to declare your goods at Customs. Liquor and Cigarettes: There are limits on how many cigarettes and how much alcohol you can import, depending on whether you are travelling from inside or outside the EU.
For more detailed information check douane.nl/reizigers
the suitcase Fahad Saleh, a 25-year-old marketing professional from Saudi Arabia, let Schiphol Magazine take a sneaky peek inside his suitcase. By: Karen Loughrey
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interview Where have you come from and what are you doing at Schiphol?
፼፼
‘I just dumped everything I saw into my suitcases’
I just arrived from Saudi Arabia. I have a business trip to Brussels but I decided to take a few days in Amsterdam just to find out about the place. Amsterdam has an excellent reputation and I want to know why.
Do you have any plans while you’re here?
፼፼
My trip advisor will tell you more about that. (Ed., his friend chimes in): Clubbing, coffeeshops and museums, particularly the Van Gogh Museum.
You’re travelling quite heavy today. Can you take me through the bags you’ve got with you?
፼፼
so it contains lots of papers I have to review and items to show in the presentation – and my small case (ed., see below) for the remaining small things, like my laptop, business cards, cigarettes, papers etc.
Could you not fit it all in your big suitcase?
፼፼
Actually I always travel this way, with the clothes and the electronics separately, so I know exactly where everything is and don’t need time to take it out of the case.
When you packed your suitcases, what was your strategy?
፼፼
I have one for my clothes (ed., a large suitcase, not pictured), my black bag which I use to carry my files, iPad and mobile phones – I’m delivering a workshop in Brussels
(Laughs) I just left the office and had one hour to pack everything, so I just dumped everything I saw into my suitcases. I kept in mind the fact that I have business meetings so I had to take something formal; otherwise, I just dumped whatever I feel comfortable in into my case.
Do you think you’ve forgotten anything?
፼፼
Lots of things! My favourite belt, a few jackets and a few of my shirts. I’m going to see what Amsterdam has to offer, if there are good places to shop I’ll buy new ones.
How often do you travel?
፼፼
I feel like I spend most of my life in airports! But I enjoy travelling big time.
Have you ever had a luggage disaster, or lost a bag?
፼፼
No. Fortunately after years of travelling I’ve never had this happen, and I hope it never will.
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HEAD
12
Holland has the highest museum density in the world, with almost 1,000 museums
MIDDELBURG A car journey from Delfzijl at the top of the Netherlands to Middelburg at the bottom is 395km (245 miles) and would take around four hours.
1
75% of the entire world’s flower bulbs come from the Netherlands
Rotterdam is the secondlargest city in the Netherlands and the largest port in Europe.
rotterdam
Den Haag is the third largest city in the Netherlands, after Amsterdam and Rotterdam, and it’s the seat of the Dutch Governement.
DEN HAAG (THE HAGUE)
BELOW SEA LEVEL The Netherlands is often referred to as the ‘lowlands’. Why? Because half of the country is just one metre above sea level, and around 25% is actually below it (including Schiphol airport which is 4.5m below). Don’t worry – a complex system of dykes, dams, floodgates and dunes protects the country from the ever-present threat from the sea. The highest point in the country is 323 metres and is referred to as a ‘mountain’.
12 highlights of the netherlands
8
3
Holland?
The name Holland, although generally accepted, is not actually the name of the country. Holland makes up two of the twelve provinces in the Netherlands. The nation hasn’t been called Holland since the 17th century, when the provinces Brabant, Overijsel, Utrecht and Gelderland were added to the official territory. During the 17th century, when it was still called Holland, The Dutch East India Company enjoyed a monopoly on business in the orient, which is why many countries called the country Holland and the name stuck.
home birth
Around 30% of babies in the Netherlands are born at home – far more than in the US, UK and Japan, where only 1% of deliveries take place in a home setting.
tiny country
The Netherlands only occupies 0.008% of the surface area of the world, but it is the third largest exporter of agricultural goods.
Highest point in the Netherlands: Vaalserberg, 323m.
3. The Veluwe
2. The Wouda Pumping Station
1. The Peace Palace
8. Caves, Casemates and Fortress of Saint Pietersberg Hill
7. Alkmaar Cheese Market
6. Anne Frankhuis
5. Paleis Het Loo
12. The Deltawerken
11. The Dom in Utrecht
10. The Wadden Sea and The Dutch Peninsulas
9. The Defence Line of Amsterdam
Visting the Netherlands? Pick an empty spot on your agenda and go see one of these highlights we’ve selected. Read all about them on the next page!
4. The Rijksmuseum
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trivia HEAD
7
FLAG
Red, white and blue horizontal stripes. Introduced in 1572 and officially in use since 1937.
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Amsterdam has 1,281 bridges
The Netherlands produces 13,000,000 kilos of cheese per week
WELCOME TO THE NETHERLANDS
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Amsterdam is the largest city and the capital of the Netherlands. It is home to rouglhy 800,000 people. Amsterdam is only a 20-minute train ride away so if you have a long stopover, it’s a must-visit!
AMSTERDAM SCHIPHOL
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This is the country of windmills, wooden shoes and weed. But there’s much more to it than that: 12 national highlights!
drugs legal?
(June 2011)
bicycle country Since 1976 Holland has taken a liberal stance on ‘soft drugs’. One can buy up to five grams and grow up to five plants at home. The sale of marijuana is decriminalised, but the largescale production and wholesale is not. The DNRI (crime statistics institute) in Holland estimates that between 323 and 766 tonnes of marijuana are illegally produced each year, with anywhere between 18,000 and 42,000 grow operations. Holland has an estimated 363,000 marijuana users.
Population: 16,684,542
The Netherlands has around 15,000km of bicycle paths and almost every Dutch person owns a bike. There are around 16 million bikes – that’s twice as many as cars. Around 40,000 bikes are stolen annually, and those are just the thefts reported to the police. The most commonly given fine for cyclists is for a lack of lights and costs €60. At least 37% of the population of Amsterdam rides a bike instead of using other forms of transport.
sinking amsterdam
you are here
Amsterdam is built on poles because the ground is so soft. The poles ensure they can reach more solid ground, but in the past the buildings have often shifted, sunk and moved which is why almost all houses in Amsterdam are crooked.
Dutch people are the tallest in Europe and the second tallest in the world
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NATIONAL COLOUR
COAT OF ARMS
The Netherlands is one of the six founding member states of The European Communities.
PART OF EU
The Netherlands adopted the euro on 1 January, ‘99. Before that, the national currency was the Guilder.
CURRENCY
DELFZIJL
The Dutch coat of arms is inscribed with Je Maintiendrai, French for ‘I will maintain.’
There are over 4,000,000 cows in the Netherlands
Orange is the national colour since the royal lastname is ‘Van Oranje’ (of Orange).
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12 highlights Of The Netherlands
The Wouda Pumping Station
the veluwe
2more info
see prev. page
By: Tim Hilhorst
the peace palace, the hague
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Home to the International Court of Justice and a host of other organisations, the neorennaissance style building is filled with gifts and treasures from all areas of the globe. With pacifism, freedom and peace at its heart the palace’s history is a turbulent one as it opened only a year before the onset of WWI.
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The rijksmuseum, amsterdam
The Rijksmuseum is a Dutch national museum that not only tells much of Dutch history, but also holds the country’s most precious objects and art. From the greats like Rembrandt and Vermeer to Steen and Halls, the museum features sculptures, paintings and historical artefacts.
Hobbemastraat 21 Amsterdam rijksmuseum.nl
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Paleis het loo, apeldoorn
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For three centuries Paleis Het Loo was home to the Dutch royal family. The baroque building was converted into a museum in 1984 showcasing the original furniture, objects, paintings and cars of the House of Orange-Nassau, not to mention the beautiful gardens surrounding the palace. To truly understand Dutch history and the great royal empire of the Netherlands this is a must see.
Koninklijk Park 1 Apeldoorn paleishetloo.nl
A popular destination for the Dutch to holiday in their own country, the Veluwe is a forest-rich area of Gelderland that features Europe’s largest sand drifts. A great place to go cycling and hiking through some of the most beautiful flora and fauna filled landscape unrivalled anywhere else in the country.
1100km² area Local cities: Ede, Arnhem and Apeldoorn develuwe.nl
Gemaalweg 6 Lemmer woudagemaal.nl
Carnegieplein 2 The Hague vredespaleis.nl
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At the apex of Dutch hydraulic engineering, The Wouda Pumping Station has set the standard for the rest of the world for centuries. The Dutch have always had a volatile relationship with the water that so desperately hugs their sub-sealevel shores. The immense power of mankind is revealed by the fashion in which the Dutch have defied the will of nature and persisted. (UNESCO world heritage site.)
anne frankhuis, amsterdam
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The house where Anne Frank wrote her immensely popular diary about life during WWII. Anne’s childhood is memorialised in the actual house where she was hiding from the Nazis with her family. A detailed history of her life and the war make for a moving experience even for those who haven’t read the book.
Prinsengracht 267 Amsterdam annefrank.org
trivia
cheese market, alkmaar
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Alkmaar is the only place left in the Netherlands that still hosts a traditional cheese market. Cheese is one of the Netherlands’ main staples and from April until September, on Fridays between 10.00 and 12.30, the Waagplein is filled with merchants clad in authentic garments weighing and selling cheese in the traditional way.
Waagplein Alkmaar kaasmarkt.nl
The Wadden Sea and The Dutch Peninsulas
10 The Wadden Sea and its peninsulas in the
Caves, Casemates and Fortress of Saint Pietersberg Hill
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The labyrinth of caves in Maastricht was created centuries ago for collecting marl from the ground. With more than 20,000 passageways, various drawings and mysterious writings on the wall the caves make for an enigmatic adventure. On top of the cave system is Fort Saint Pieter, a 300-year-old fort that served as a defence base in countless military attacks throughout history.
Slavante 1 Maastricht maastrichtunderground.nl
the dom, utrecht
11 With the highest church tower in Holland
the defence line of amsterdam
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Another great example the Netherlands’ curious relationship with water is the 135km defence line, built between 1883 and 1920, that fortified the capital by controlling the waters. The system commanded more than 42 forts and a number of dykes, canals and locks that they could employ to temporarily flood polders and defend the capital from attack by water. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and most of it remains in great condition. 135km ring, Various locations. 10-15km outside the city centre stelling-amsterdam.nl/english
the deltawerken
12 The Dutch have had a long history of flooding
north are one of Holland’s most recognisable landmarks. The tidal difference in this area is so extreme, it is possible to walk from one island to the next when the tide is out. The area is densely populated with wildlife, from seals and seagulls to fish and birds. The peninsulas are great for day-trips with their long idyllic beaches, diverse wildlife and relaxing peace and quiet.
(112m) the church stands proudly in the centre of Utrecht and the entire country. The Gothic church was built in 1254 and for some time remained the only cathedral in the Netherlands. After parts of the church were destroyed by a tornado, a square now separates the church from the Dom tower. The immaculate architecture and sheer size alone make this a worthwhile landmark.
in their notorious ‘lowlands’. To combat the problem a defence mechanism of dyke systems was thought up that progressed slowly until the flooding disaster of 1953. After the disaster the coast of south-western Holland was shortened by around 700km by setting up the delta-works that could control the water. The works remain an incredible design feat to this day.
Along the coast of north-western Holland. waddenzee.nl
Achter de Dom 1 Utrecht domkerk.n
Provinces Zeeland, South-Holland and North-Brabant deltawerken.com
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THE STYLE OF
STOCKHOLM Photography: Rene Mesman | Styling: Hanna van den Bos
Sleek designs, edgy fashion and world-class nightclubs: that’s what the capital of Sweden is famous for. Planning a visit? Make sure to do so in style.
the style HEAD
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1 Pepe Jeans, €30 2 Longines €2,540 3 GAUDI, €159 4 Bruuns Bazaar, €59 5 Samsøe & Samsøe, €139 6 Lee, €120 7 Laimböck, €59.95 8 Timberland, €180 9 Edwin, €80 * SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.com
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1 Emilio Pucci Eyewear, €275 2 Gaudi, €199 (fake fur) 3 DYRBERG/KERN, (price on request) 4 Laimböck, €29.95 5 Create your own ring! Spinning, starting at €129 6 Edith & Ella, €192 7 Malene Birger, (price on request) 8 World of Bessy, €222 9 Pepe Jeans, €55 * SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.com
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1 Little Cerise € 79 2 Desigual, €64 3 IKKS, €139 4 JAPAN RAGS, €109.95 5 Shirt: JAPAN RAGS, €49.95 | Gilet: Hackett London/Romeyn, €105 6 Cakewalk, €59.95 7 IKKS, €75 8 Timberland, €65 9 Slovz, €99 * SCHIPHOLMAGAZINE.com
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ADVERTORIAL
About BCD Travel
Turning expensive tickets into cheap ones:
More freedom with flexible tickets
As a leading provider of global corporate travel management, BCD Travel simplifies and streamlines the business of travel. This benefits the organisation on every level: from the bottom line to the business traveller. BCD Travel operates in more than 90 countries, with a combined worldwide work force of 10,800 people. BCD Travel is a BCD Holdings N.V. company.
Snags
Diederik Banken
Vice President Commercial BCD Travel Belgium and The Netherlands
Do you know the conditions and restrictions on business travel tickets? For example, do you get your money back if you cancel? BCD Travel, a leading provider of global corporate travel management, delves into the complexities of the fare structure and concludes that ‘cheap’ can sometimes be very expensive. By: Bonnie Parren
There are three types of air tickets: flexible, semi-flexible and non-flexible. These tickets are refundable or non-refundable. You either do or do not get the price of the ticket refunded if the trip is cancelled. This seems pretty straightforward, but if you delve a little more deeply into the issue of fares you will discover that no two airlines apply the same terms, so that there are hundreds of different types of tickets, each with their own restrictions. There is one basic rule: the cheaper the ticket, the more restrictions attached to it. With semi-flexible tickets, the airlines are catering for business travellers who no longer want to pay the top price for their seat on the plane, but nonetheless value a certain degree of flexibility. 80
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For more information: Since the 2009 crisis, companies have www.bcdtravel.com. been casting a more critical eye over their business travel budgets. Diederik Banken, Vice President Commercial of BCD Travel Belgium and The Netherlands, says: ‘I fully understand that travel budgets are under pressure, we’re noticing that too. We have customers who have adapted their travel policy and for the past year or two have always flown at the lowest possible fare. This is a good choice, provided the employees do not change or cancel their flights. The reality, however, is often different. It is no accident that almost 80% of our customers book a fully flexible or a semi-flexible ticket. Experience suggests that in business you are dependent ‘The lowest business class fare is on so many different factors that snags can easily arise. not that much lower than a fully A semi-flexible ticket is flexible business class ticket’ therefore a good alternative and, on closer inspection, often cheaper than the ‘cheapest’ fare. In addition, with semi-flexible tickets the company will know fairly accurately what the travel costs will be. The extra cost of a new ticket, after the cancellation of a nonflexible ticket, is often disappointingly high.’
Maze The advantage of the huge maze of fares is that sometimes the ticket prices are not all that far apart from each other. In some cases the cost of, for example, the lowest business class fare (non-refundable) is not that much lower than a fully flexible business class ticket. The additional cost will make it possible to change or cancel. ‘That is why we advise our travel agents to look beyond what the company’s travel policy specifies,’ says Diederik Banken. ‘Even if the policy is to buy the cheapest business class fare, it’s worthwhile offering this flexible fare – if only to make travel bookers aware of what is possible and, above all, impossible with a particular ticket.’
TIME ZONE:
WATCH THIS Photography: Ton Hendriks
IWC ‘Top Gun’ Pilot €6750* Rolex GMT Master II €12400* IWC Spitfire €4310*
on foot:
nature calling
* Prices may vary
RED/BROWN TIMBERLAND BROGUE €160* Classic Timberland €100* Canvas & leather Timberland €260* BIG-TONGUE BOOT, IKKS KIDS €90* Buckled fur boot, IKKS Kids €120*
EL GOUNA, EGYPT El Gouna is a self-contained town designed by award winning architects Alfredo Freda and Michael Graves. Located on the Red Sea coast and surrounded by the desert, empty beaches and blue lagoons it provides over 10,000 tourism jobs for local residents.
ind Body & M
a g n i Fly n i e kit t r e s e d e h t
a place m there’s a d r te s om Am cradle s away fr gypt, the E in Six hour n w small to Gouna. A I’m not called El atra. But p o le C e to or the tion, hom glyphics o r of civilisa ie h e dmire th out! a visit to a us work paying a io r e s a re for s. I’m he pyramid ra
de Hoekst
il By: Math
THE LOWDOWN Beginners: 10/10 Intermediates: 10/10 Advanced: 10/10 Waveriders: 4/10
After a thirty-minute drive through the desert I arrive at El Gouna, a purpose-built private resort community with its own school, hospital and library where luxurious hotels and villas overlook inland lagoons, waterways and the Red Sea. Some have direct access to the beach – ideal for windsurfers, divers and kiteboarders. Kiteboarding (also called kitesurfing) is one of the fastest upcoming sports. It combines kiting, wakeboarding, snowboarding and windsurfing. The water in El Gouna is quite shallow, making it the perfect place to take a beginner’s course. A basic course consists of three parts: flying, starting and landing the kite on the beach, ‘body dragging’ (practising in the water without the board) and flying the kite while standing on your board. ’80s Revival It’s been a while since I last attempted kiteboarding and I wasn’t exactly what you’d call a natural. After a two-year break my muscles feel somewhat stiff and every ten minutes I have to run to the bathroom to flush away my nerves. But finally this is it: with a steady wind of 25 knots, an outside temperature of 35C and a water temperature of 27C there are no excuses. Leaving my wetsuit inside the bag (praise the Lord for that) I unpack my black 9-metre kite. Despite the great variations in the temperature of my shed where she’s been stored, the cold North Sea water still in her veins and the Dutch sand rubbing her skin, she looks absolutely stunning. Okay, her tribal print is a bit outdated – nowadays the ’80s are enjoying a revival in kitesurfers’ paradise (think fluorescent colour-blocking) – but other than that we make a good team. At the kitesurfing station – right next to the Mövenpick hotel where I’ll be staying for the week – there’s everything to please both her and me. ‘Be careful with that high pressure hose,’ the check-in girl warns while I’m filling the airframe. I continue my preparations, staring at the green, red and grey lines on my control bar. ‘Red goes on the right side,’ one of the beach boys gently points out as he takes the bar out of my hands. There are six of them, all dressed in red Baywatch t-shirts and at my disposal.
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Mangroovy Beach I climb into my harness and put on my horrific goggles when suddenly there’s a loud bang. All the kitesurfers look up. A terrorist attack in the middle of nowhere? No, just a newbie who filled her kite with too much air. Half an hour later I find myself sitting in a tuk-tuk en route to Mangroovy beach, five minutes away from the resort. This beach is home to one of the largest kitesurfing areas in Egypt. There are three separate kitesurfing centres, each with a slightly different set-up. In one of them there’s apparently a guy called Barakat who can bring her back to life.
Best months: Aug - Sept Flat water: Yes Choppy water: Yes Shallow water: Yes Waves: No Tidal: Yes
It seems if the w as has drop ind ped While he’s working his magic, I lie down in a hammock and enjoy my lunch. According to the hostess everything (including salads and ice cubes) is perfectly safe to eat with no risk of an upset stomach and clearly she’s right about that. Less than two hours later me and my kite are finally flying. The tide is just right so the risk of the board digging into the seabed (and the resulting knee fractures) has passed. There are hardly any waves (especially compared to the rough North Sea ones, which seem to tumble one on top of the other) and there’s a constant side-shore wind blowing. There’s another kitesurfer passing by. Not sure who has priority, I forgot the rule, but I’m facing starboard so I go ahead. And then it’s just me, the warm wind, the sun and the clear babyblue water. Can life get any easier than this? A Baywatch guy on a safety raft is waving at me. I wave back. Lifeboat to the rescue As I look around I notice that the kitesurfing station is pretty far away. Obviously I’ve been going downwind and to make things worse the wind drops. I try to create some power in my canvas by stirring it up and down in the air, but it’s of no use. As I sink into the water, my kite drops and gently lands on the surface of the water where she bobs up and down quietly.
El Gouna ,, 22 kilometres north of Hurghada ,, Flat, shallow water in the lagoon, deeper water 1km out to sea ,, North-eastern wind (12-28 knots) ,, Private beach, so never too busy
travel report I try to swim to the raft but after a fifteen-minute struggle I’m still in the same spot and my hopeless condition starts to play tricks on me. People on a passing yacht are cheering. Sure, you laugh, I muse. As my guardian angel arrives and drags my 68 kilos aboard his lifeboat I gasp: ‘Sorry, I couldn’t make it.’ ‘Of course you couldn’t,’ Bebo Pop gently replies before dropping me on the beach, ‘there’s no wind.’
e get f i l n Ca er? i s a e any With both feet firmly back on Mövenpick property I sit down on the sand, ignoring the curious looks of the sunbathers lounging lazily on their beds. My hands hurt, my harness is too tight and my lines are a mess but nevertheless this first session felt like a cleansing experience: I’m spacing out. Half an hour later I walk to the kite station. The wind picks up again and it’s going against me. But I’m singing. At least for seven more days.
OTHER PLACES
Dahab ,, 40-minute transfer from Sharm el Sheikh ,, 3- to 5-star hotels to suit all budgets ,, Windsurf centres on the beach ,, Gateway to dive spots like Blue Hole
Sharm El Sheikh and Naama Bay ,, One of the Red Sea’s most popular holiday destinations (200+ hotels) ,, Predominantly for divers ,, Kitesurfers head away from the crowds to the more chilled end of Sharm – Nabq (20 minutes drive)
Book a kitesafari online ,, Stay on a motor yacht (cabins for 2 only, 6 nights) ,, A local guide seeks out the best wind ,, Launch your kite onboard (there’s assistance)
HOW TO GET THERE FROM SCHIPHOL
6.5hrs
Take a 5-hour flight from Schiphol to Hurghada airport. From the airport, it’s a 30-minute transfer by coach or taxi to the resort of El Gouna.
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schiphol
GO GREEN Schiphol Airport Park Airport Park doesn’t just bring the outside inside, it has an open-air terrace, too. This quirky green space that recently sprouted up at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol is an unexpected oasis.
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AT Airport Park, the aim is to offer guests something a little out of the ordinary. And if you find kicking back on a tree stump, surrounded by pictures of famous green spaces while butterflies dance beneath your feet ‘out of the ordinary’, this could be the park for you. Located in the departure lounge, Airport Park grew from the desire to give passengers a tranquil city park experience amidst the pre-flight bustle.
Airside Travellers with time to kill can chill among the trees to the soundtrack of wildlife or head outside for some authentic alfresco fun. If the weather’s nice, pick a spot on the terrace and grab a bite to eat. It’s not your typical picnic in the park... no soggy sandwiches and flat, warm cola here, thank you very much. The Park Café menu includes fresh juices, organic sandwiches and Fairtrade coffee, served up with a sidehelping of sunshine and an airside view.
Park and ride After refuelling, travellers with energy to burn before their flight can jump on a bike and start pedalling. They won’t get very far, as the bikes are static, but it’ll get the endorphins flowing and the energy produced can be used to charge a mobile phone. That’s just one of the park’s sustainable features; others include the use of LED lighting, and sunlight streamed in through fibre optic cables. Whether you plan to work or play, Airport Park is worth checking out. Just keep an eye on the time, it flies when you’re having fun...
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The sounds of animals and cyclists provide a soothing soundtrack
schiphol
There are several sustainable applications to be found at the park. For example, you can recharge your mobile phone by hopping on one of the bicycles that are used to generate energy. LED lighting is used wherever possible and sunshine and daylight enter the park through tube lighting and fibre optic cables.
MAP REFERENCE Page 95 Airport Park is located beyond passport control in Lounge 1, above Pier D.
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Arrivals & Schiphol Plaza
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getting around at schiphol departures and lounges
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Sales info Bruuns Bazaar: bruunsbazaar.com Cakewalk: waalwearkids.com Desigual: desigual.com DYRBERG/KERN: dyrbergkern.com Edith & Ella: edith-ella.com Edwin: edwin-europe.com Emilio Pucci Eyewear by Marchon: marchon.com GAUDI: josbles.nl Hackett London/Romeyn Wholesale: hackett.com Hotel Seidenhof: seidenhof.ch IWC: iwc.com and gassandiamonds.nl/en (also available at Schiphol) IKKS: ikks.com JAPAN RAGS: japan-rags.com Laimböck: modana.net LEE: lee.com Longines: longines.com, Pepe Jeans London: pepejeans.com Rolex: rolex.com and gassandiamonds.nl/en (also available at Schiphol) Samsøe & Samsøe: samsoe.com Slovz: slovz.nl Spinning: spinningjewelry.dk Swiss Air: swiss.com Timberland: timberland.com World of Bessy: worldofbessy.com Zürich Tourismus: zuerich.com
Can’t get enough? schipholmagazine.com
Read us online next month! (Or grab another copy if you’re passing through.)
We’ll be going beyond the Costa del Sol in Malaga, Spain; doing some serious canoeing in the Wadi Rum desert, Jordan; visiting up-and-coming Kraków, Poland and wetting our whistles at the Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany. On top of that, Schiphol’s fire department will reveal its secrets and we’ll cut some ropes together... See you in October!
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Odd World wishes to congratulate Schiphol Magazine with their first issue corporate finance specialised in media and digital entertainment For new business enquiries please contact ben bos at +31 (0)6 52007777
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